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¡VIVA<br />
VALENCIA!<br />
SPORTY SPRING<br />
FASHION AT<br />
THE FUTURISTIC<br />
PALAU DE<br />
LES ARTS<br />
SWISS<br />
REGGAE<br />
WHO KNEW<br />
YOU COULD<br />
STIR IT UP<br />
IN ZURICH?<br />
APRIL <strong>2010</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
FLORAL<br />
FIESTA<br />
THE TOP 10<br />
GARDENS<br />
TO SEE THIS<br />
SEASON
Renting a car with us for the fi rst time?<br />
Europcar guarantees you great car rental deals.<br />
Visit the Europcar desk or book @ easyJet.com
PHOTO © PHILIP VOLKERS | COVER ILLUSTRATION © NICK RADFORD/FOLIOART.CO.UK<br />
APRIL <strong>2010</strong><br />
CONTENTS<br />
Bistro & Boutique<br />
Feb - April <strong>2010</strong><br />
See page 25 for Terms<br />
& Conditions<br />
Boutique_feb10_CH.indd 1 14/01/<strong>2010</strong> 12:30<br />
WORK<br />
AND<br />
PLAY!<br />
In this month’s<br />
issue of<br />
Boutique &<br />
Bistro we’re<br />
offering<br />
excellent<br />
prices on<br />
the latest<br />
fragrances<br />
and gadgets,<br />
including the<br />
new Nintendo<br />
DSi. For the<br />
fi rst time<br />
onboard you<br />
will be able to<br />
hire a Sony<br />
PSP to play<br />
games, or<br />
to watch a<br />
movie or your<br />
favourite TV<br />
programme<br />
(only available<br />
on selected<br />
fl ights). Don’t<br />
miss your<br />
chance to buy<br />
a limitededition<br />
white<br />
Gulliver Bear<br />
and his new<br />
outfi ts. You<br />
can also buy<br />
onward travel<br />
tickets from<br />
the comfort of<br />
your seat<br />
to save time<br />
and money.<br />
FEATURES<br />
38 Weekenders<br />
Have an art-fi lled<br />
stay in Málaga or an<br />
adrenaline-fuelled<br />
break in Split<br />
48 Business<br />
Odyssey<br />
Take your partner<br />
along and mix<br />
business with<br />
pleasure next time<br />
you travel for work<br />
54 Valencia<br />
Fashion<br />
Clean lines and<br />
sporty chic meet<br />
slick architecture in<br />
Calatrava’s city<br />
62 Spring<br />
Gardens<br />
Our guide to the<br />
best places to see<br />
Europe and north<br />
Africa in bloom<br />
68 Swiss<br />
Reggae<br />
Stir it up, Zürich<br />
style, as you plug<br />
into the city’s<br />
Jamaican nightlife<br />
74 Slovenia’s<br />
Wine Regions<br />
Discover the bestkept<br />
foodie secret<br />
in central Europe<br />
80 Manchester<br />
Bodyfl ying<br />
Flying without wings<br />
in a wind tunnel<br />
LAST WORD<br />
178 Passenger<br />
Information<br />
180 España<br />
181 Italia<br />
182 Suisse/<br />
Schweiz<br />
183 Deutschland<br />
184 France<br />
185 UK<br />
186 Gulliver Bear<br />
190 Where We Fly<br />
192 Route Map<br />
194 Eco Credentials<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
LOCATION<br />
View from the roof<br />
terrace of the<br />
Barceló Valencia<br />
SHE WEARS<br />
Fitted shirt dress (£118)<br />
from Paul & Joe Sister at<br />
my-wardrobe.com<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 3
13<br />
THE BUZZ<br />
8 Word of<br />
Mouth<br />
News from across<br />
the network<br />
11 Calendar<br />
Catch Cirque du<br />
Soleil in Sheffi eld,<br />
plus festivals in<br />
Murcia, Madeira<br />
and Innsbruck<br />
18 Insider’s<br />
Guide<br />
A typography artist<br />
shows us around<br />
Amsterdam<br />
21 Travel News<br />
A sleek new bar in<br />
Jerusalem, plus<br />
new shops and spas<br />
across Europe<br />
24 Coming Up<br />
Munich Opera’s<br />
portable Pavilion 21<br />
27 Tastebuds<br />
Pink oysters and<br />
Sicilian caponata<br />
30 Made<br />
in Paris<br />
Shopping for<br />
French style<br />
18<br />
32 Three of<br />
the Best<br />
Easter traditions<br />
34 New Route<br />
Crete (Chania)<br />
PROPERTY<br />
& BUSINESS<br />
88 Big Debate<br />
Should governments<br />
stop pushing<br />
paternity leave?<br />
92 Lanzarote<br />
Property<br />
Head off the beaten<br />
track to fi nd the<br />
island’s stylish buys<br />
99 Eco Business<br />
From fi rehose to<br />
fashion accessory<br />
105 Destination<br />
Guides<br />
Updated monthly!<br />
EDITORIAL & ART<br />
Acting Editor Michael Keating<br />
Art Director Neil Smith<br />
Deputy Editor Claire Martin<br />
Sub-Editor Marie Cleland<br />
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />
Destinations Sub-Editor Julie Alpine<br />
Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs<br />
Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />
Online Director Sal Lababidi<br />
easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />
(General contact for magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />
Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
Group Publishing Director Phil Castle<br />
Associate Publisher Tara Brady<br />
European Sales Team Nishan Gumani,<br />
Darren Paternoster, Massimiliano<br />
Mazzer, James Lister, Joshua Arnold<br />
Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM<br />
Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030<br />
INK<br />
CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke<br />
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />
Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys<br />
Design Director Jonny Clark<br />
Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />
Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />
easyJet TRAVELLER is published on<br />
behalf of easyJet by Ink Publishing<br />
141–143 Shoreditch High Street<br />
London, E1 6JE<br />
Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8795,<br />
+44 (0)20 7613 8776<br />
Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 6947<br />
Info@ink-publishing.com<br />
ink-publishing.com<br />
goferslogistics.com<br />
© Ink All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved.<br />
No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part<br />
without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All<br />
prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions<br />
expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet,<br />
and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content.<br />
Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.<br />
Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser<br />
in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company,<br />
or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.<br />
This magazine is printed<br />
on 100% recycled paper<br />
minus<br />
52%<br />
CO2 TRAVELLER
13<br />
THE BUZZ<br />
8 Word of<br />
Mouth<br />
News from across<br />
the network<br />
11 Calendar<br />
Catch Cirque du<br />
Soleil in Sheffi eld,<br />
plus festivals in<br />
Murcia, Madeira<br />
and Innsbruck<br />
18 Insider’s<br />
Guide<br />
A typography artist<br />
shows us around<br />
Amsterdam<br />
21 Travel News<br />
A sleek new bar in<br />
Jerusalem, plus<br />
new shops and spas<br />
across Europe<br />
24 Coming Up<br />
Munich Opera’s<br />
portable Pavilion 21<br />
27 Tastebuds<br />
Pink oysters and<br />
Sicilian caponata<br />
30 Made<br />
in Paris<br />
Shopping for<br />
French style<br />
18<br />
32 Three of<br />
the Best<br />
Easter traditions<br />
34 New Route<br />
Crete (Chania)<br />
PROPERTY<br />
& BUSINESS<br />
88 Big Debate<br />
Should governments<br />
stop pushing<br />
paternity leave?<br />
92 Lanzarote<br />
Property<br />
Head off the beaten<br />
track to fi nd the<br />
island’s stylish buys<br />
99 Eco Business<br />
From fi rehose to<br />
fashion accessory<br />
105 Destination<br />
Guides<br />
Updated monthly!<br />
EDITORIAL & ART<br />
Acting Editor Michael Keating<br />
Art Director Neil Smith<br />
Deputy Editor Claire Martin<br />
Sub-Editor Marie Cleland<br />
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />
Destinations Sub-Editor Julie Alpine<br />
Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs<br />
Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />
Online Director Sal Lababidi<br />
easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />
(General contact for magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />
Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
Group Publishing Director Phil Castle<br />
Associate Publisher Tara Brady<br />
European Sales Team Nishan Gumani,<br />
Darren Paternoster, Massimiliano<br />
Mazzer, James Lister, Joshua Arnold<br />
Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM<br />
Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030<br />
INK<br />
CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke<br />
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />
Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys<br />
Design Director Jonny Clark<br />
Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />
Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />
easyJet TRAVELLER is published on<br />
behalf of easyJet by Ink Publishing<br />
141–143 Shoreditch High Street<br />
London, E1 6JE<br />
Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8795,<br />
+44 (0)20 7613 8776<br />
Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 6947<br />
Info@ink-publishing.com<br />
ink-publishing.com<br />
goferslogistics.com<br />
© Ink All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved.<br />
No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part<br />
without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All<br />
prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions<br />
expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet,<br />
and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content.<br />
Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.<br />
Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser<br />
in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company,<br />
or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.<br />
This magazine is printed<br />
on 100% recycled paper<br />
minus<br />
52%<br />
CO2 TRAVELLER
GREETINGS | ENJOY THE FLIGHT<br />
Welcome /Bienvenido/Bonjour<br />
Benvenuto/Willkommen<br />
MOST PEOPLE ARE surprised when I tell<br />
them that easyJet has nearly 200 aircraft<br />
and now offers 500 routes. We have come a<br />
long way from our launch 15 years ago with<br />
just two aircraft fl ying a couple of routes<br />
between London and Scotland. Our success<br />
is based on offering “the lowest prices to the<br />
most convenient airports”. This means that<br />
unlike some other low-cost airlines, we take<br />
passengers to where they want to go rather<br />
than to an airfi eld two hours’ bus ride from<br />
town. We fl y on 45 of Europe’s top 100 routes<br />
– more than any other airline. This means<br />
that easyJet is now Europe’s number-one<br />
air transport network, with 300 million<br />
Europeans living within an hour’s drive of<br />
an easyJet fl ight.<br />
We shall continue to grow by 10% in<br />
<strong>2010</strong> which means that we are constantly<br />
opening up new routes. This month we will<br />
launch new routes from Geneva, Manchester<br />
and Milan to provide much needed low-fare<br />
services to destinations such as Bordeaux,<br />
Brindisi, Sharm El Sheikh and Zürich.<br />
In addition, we are introducing a new<br />
airport to our network – with services from<br />
Doncaster Sheffi eld Airport to Barcelona,<br />
Amsterdam, Faro, Majorca and Prague,<br />
providing greater access at lower fares to the<br />
Yorkshire region.<br />
We thank you for fl ying easyJet and look<br />
forward to being of service again. Happy fl ying!<br />
Mucha gente se sorprende cuando<br />
les digo que easyJet cuenta con casi<br />
200 aviones y 500 rutas. Ya ha pasado<br />
mucho tiempo desde que, 15 años atrás,<br />
empezamos con sólo dos aviones y un par de<br />
rutas entre Londres y Escocia. Nuestro éxito se<br />
basa en ofrecer “los precios más bajos en los<br />
aeropuertos más cómodos”. El resultado es que,<br />
al contrario que otras aerolíneas de bajo coste,<br />
llevamos a nuestros pasajeros hasta el lugar<br />
donde quieren ir, y no a un aeropuerto apartado<br />
a 2 horas en autobús. Volamos en 45 de las 100<br />
principales rutas de Europa, más que ninguna<br />
otra aerolínea. Esto signifi ca que, con más de<br />
300 millones de europeos viviendo a menos<br />
de una hora en coche de un vuelo de easyJet,<br />
somos la red de transporte aéreo número 1 de<br />
Europa. ¡Feliz viaje!<br />
Molti sono sorpresi di sapere che<br />
easyJet dispone attualmente di quasi<br />
200 velivoli ed è in grado di offrire 500<br />
rotte diverse. Abbiamo fatto molta strada da 15<br />
anni a questa parte, quando easyJet disponeva<br />
di soli due aerei e offriva un paio di collegamenti<br />
tra Londra e la Scozia. Il nostro successo si basa<br />
sull’offerta dei “voli più economici in assoluto<br />
verso gli aeroporti più facilmente raggiungibili”.<br />
Infatti, a differenza di altre compagnie “low<br />
cost”, i nostri passeggeri hanno la certezza di<br />
arrivare esattamente dove si aspettano, senza<br />
ritrovarsi in aeroporti a due ore di autobus dalla<br />
città. Operiamo 45 delle 100 rotte più gettonate<br />
d’Europa - un numero molto maggiore rispetto a<br />
qualsiasi altra compagnia. Per questo, easyJet vanta<br />
la prima rete per il trasporto aereo in Europa, e 300<br />
milioni di passeggeri europei possono raggiungere<br />
un volo easyJet con solo un’ora di viaggio dalla<br />
propria città. Buon volo!<br />
Die meisten Leute sind überrascht, wenn<br />
ich ihnen erzähle, dass easyJet über fast<br />
200 Flugzeuge verfügt und jetzt 500<br />
Strecken bedient. Wir haben seit unseren Anfängen<br />
vor 15 Jahren, als nur zwei Maschinen zwei Strecken<br />
zwischen London und Schottland fl ogen, eine Menge<br />
erreicht. Unser Erfolg basiert auf dem Prinzip, „die<br />
niedrigsten Preise zu den am günstigsten gelegenen<br />
Flughäfen“ anzubieten. Das heißt, wir bringen<br />
unsere Passagiere dahin, wo sie hin möchten und<br />
nicht zu einem Flugplatz, der eine zweistündige<br />
Busfahrt von der Innenstadt entfernt ist, wie einige<br />
andere Niedrigpreis-Fluglinien es praktizieren. Wir<br />
fl iegen 45 der Top 100-Strecken Europas – mehr<br />
als jede andere Fluggesellschaft. Das heißt, easyJet<br />
ist jetzt Transportnetz Nr. 1 in Europa: 300 Millionen<br />
Europäer leben nur eine Stunde Fahrt von einem<br />
Flug mit easyJet entfernt. Guten Flug!<br />
La plupart des gens paraissent surpris<br />
d’apprendre qu’easyJet opère presque 200<br />
avions et plus de 500 lignes. Depuis notre<br />
lancement il y a 15 ans, avec simplement deux avions<br />
assurant quelques vols entre Londres et l’Écosse,<br />
nous avons beaucoup avancé. La clé de notre succès<br />
est d’offrir « les plus bas prix vers les aéroports les<br />
plus pratiques ». Effectivement, et contrairement<br />
à d‘autres compagnies aériennes low-cost, nous<br />
acheminons nos passagers où ils souhaitent se<br />
rendre, plutôt que vers un aérodrome à 2 heures de<br />
bus du centre-ville. Nous opérons sur 45 des 100<br />
principales lignes d’Europe – plus que toute autre<br />
compagnie aérienne. Ce qui fait d’easyJet le réseau<br />
de transport aérien n°1 en Europe, avec 300 millions<br />
d’Européens vivant à seulement une heure de route<br />
d’un vol easyJet.Bon vol !<br />
Andy Harrison<br />
easyJet Chief Executive<br />
If you have any thoughts or suggestions,<br />
email us at andy@easyJet.com<br />
For any queries or further<br />
information, visit easyJet.com<br />
Turn to pages 178–186 for the latest easyJet<br />
news, an onboard guide and to fi nd out how<br />
we’re improving your fl ying experience<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 7
THE BUZZ | GOSSIP<br />
Glasgow<br />
A bus that can travel on roads and on<br />
water, called amfi bus, could replace the<br />
500-year-old ferry service on the River<br />
Clyde – despite technical problems during<br />
trials in February, which left it stranded<br />
in the water. The Dutch-built bus, worth<br />
£700,000 (€775,000) runs like a bus on<br />
the road, but uses a hull to fl oat and is<br />
powered by twin jets. It can carry up to<br />
50 passengers and move at a speed of<br />
eight knots. Caryn Walker<br />
8 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
WORDOF<br />
MOUTH<br />
1 2 3<br />
1<br />
Berlin<br />
It’s been 20 years since the fall of the<br />
Berlin Wall, but city offi cials are keen to<br />
preserve what’s left of it. The largest intact<br />
section is now covered in street art and<br />
constitutes the East Side Gallery. Special<br />
restorers, expert engineers and concrete<br />
specialists have been called on to restore<br />
a portion of the gallery, parts of which are<br />
crumbling and fragile. They have a budget<br />
of around €450,000 to make the wall<br />
stable and durable. Lucian McMillan<br />
2<br />
3<br />
Milan<br />
George Clooney is selling his luxurious<br />
villa on Lake Como, believed to be worth<br />
€20m. The A-list Hollywood star, who<br />
shared the house with his Italian girlfriend,<br />
says their privacy was shattered as<br />
paparazzi and persistent fans camped<br />
outside his beautiful 18th-century home.<br />
Rumour has it that he doesn’t want to fl ee<br />
Italy just yet – he’s said to be looking to<br />
purchase somewhere more remote on the<br />
island of Sardinia. Ricardo Lizzano
PHOTOS © GETTY, REX<br />
Paris<br />
The quintessential French bistro serving<br />
simple, wholesome fare with its relaxed<br />
yet buzzing community atmosphere<br />
is a winning formula that has been<br />
successfully exported throughout the<br />
world – you can eat in a French-style<br />
bistro just about anywhere. But, sadly,<br />
this type of restaurant is dying out in<br />
France, with only around 35,000 left in the<br />
entire country, as opposed to 200,000 in<br />
the 1960s. Remi Bounder<br />
4 5<br />
4 5 6<br />
6<br />
Sheffi eld<br />
Sheffi eld has made it to the fi nal four to<br />
become the UK’s fi rst City of Culture in<br />
2013. Alongside Norwich, Birmingham and<br />
Londonderry, Sheffi eld now has until 28<br />
May to develop its bid, before the winner is<br />
announced this summer. The city has the<br />
support of the Hollywood actor and local<br />
boy Sean Bean, and the announcement<br />
rides on the coat-tails of Sheffi eld being<br />
named a Candidate Host City for England’s<br />
2018 World Cup Bid. Clare Johnson<br />
OUR EUROPEAN<br />
CORRESPONDENTS<br />
GIVE US THE<br />
LOWDOWN ON<br />
WHAT’S HAPPENING<br />
IN AND AROUND<br />
THEIR CITIES<br />
THE BUZZ | GOSSIP<br />
Bucharest<br />
The Romanian Government has decided<br />
to put forward a bill that will impose a<br />
tax on junk food in an attempt to cut the<br />
country’s obesity problem. Statistics show<br />
that one in two Romanians are overweight.<br />
It is hoped that a tax on dishes high in<br />
calories, such as burgers and chips, and<br />
on items such as sweets, will generate<br />
around one billion euros a year, and will<br />
help to educate the nation about eating<br />
healthily. Andy Potter<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 9
The most beautiful spring garden in<br />
the world invites you!<br />
Welcome to Keukenhof, where spring bursts into bloom. In addition to being<br />
unique and world-famous, the park has also been one of the most popular<br />
attractions in the Netherlands for years. Keukenhof is the most colourful and<br />
fragrant place you can visit, with over 7 million flowers forming a beautiful<br />
setting for the most fabulous photos.<br />
Come to Keukenhof and enjoy the ultimate spring feeling. Curious?<br />
You can get a sneak preview at www.keukenhof.nl.<br />
Open 18 March – 16 May <strong>2010</strong><br />
www.keukenhof.nl<br />
The ultimate<br />
Day Trip!<br />
Only 30 minutes from<br />
Amsterdam.<br />
Bus line 58 will transport<br />
you in 15 minutes from<br />
Schiphol Airport<br />
to Keukenhof.
THE BUZZ<br />
SHEFFIELD<br />
The fantastically<br />
popular Cirque du<br />
Soleil started life<br />
as an unassuming<br />
collection of<br />
passionate street<br />
performers known<br />
as the Club des<br />
Talons Hauts (the<br />
High Heels Club) in<br />
Quebec, Canada,<br />
some 20 years<br />
ago. The group’s<br />
popularity was<br />
immediate, and it<br />
has taken the world<br />
by storm with its<br />
dramatic and deathdefying<br />
acrobatics<br />
and theatrics.<br />
Saltimbanco (from<br />
the Italian phrase “to<br />
jump on a bench”<br />
– although you<br />
can be confi dent<br />
you’ll witness a<br />
few more thrilling<br />
performances than<br />
that) is Cirque du<br />
Soleil’s longest<br />
running signature<br />
performance,<br />
debuting in 1992.<br />
This latest UK tour,<br />
which starts on 20<br />
CALENDAR<br />
TRAVEL NEWS<br />
TASTEBUDS<br />
MADE IN...<br />
OUT OF TOWN<br />
BOOK AHEAD: 20–23 MAY<br />
Cirque du Soleil<br />
May in Sheffi eld and<br />
calls at Liverpool,<br />
Glasgow, London and<br />
Newcastle among<br />
others, will feature<br />
50 performers<br />
from 20 countries.<br />
Watch as the cast of<br />
high-calibre artists<br />
display technical<br />
expertise with acts<br />
such as the Chinese<br />
Poles, Russian<br />
Swing, tricks on the<br />
towering trapeze<br />
and bicycle stunts<br />
you must see to<br />
believe. Not only are<br />
the performances<br />
dazzling, but so<br />
are the performers’<br />
outfi ts and props<br />
that adorn the<br />
stage. The costume<br />
department uses<br />
20km of fabric<br />
each year. For a<br />
whirlwind of colour,<br />
visual spectacles,<br />
and unfathomable<br />
stunts, you’ll be<br />
hard pushed to fi nd<br />
anything that can<br />
beat the sensational<br />
Cirque du Soleil.<br />
cirquedusoleil.com<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 11
THE BUZZ | CALENDAR<br />
17–18 APRIL<br />
Madeira Flower Festival<br />
MADEIRA<br />
The sub-tropical<br />
island of Madeira<br />
is known for many<br />
things – wine, honey<br />
cake, Cristiano<br />
Ronaldo – and it’s<br />
fi ercely proud of<br />
all its exports. But<br />
come spring, its<br />
temperate climate<br />
comes into its<br />
SIGHTS<br />
12 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
own, awakening a<br />
patchwork of exotic<br />
fl ora. So it’s no<br />
surprise the island’s<br />
fl ower festival is<br />
one of the key dates<br />
on the Funchal<br />
calendar. For one<br />
weekend in April,<br />
the streets of the<br />
capital are fi lled with<br />
bursting blooms,<br />
plant stalls and a<br />
vibrant procession<br />
involving most of<br />
the community.<br />
The festival kicks<br />
off with local<br />
children building<br />
a “wall of hope”<br />
with thousands of<br />
fl owers in the Praça<br />
do Munícipio, before<br />
fl oral fl oats process<br />
through the city’s<br />
main streets.<br />
madeira.travel<br />
THROUGHOUT APRIL<br />
The State of<br />
Things: Design<br />
and the 21st Century<br />
TEL AVIV<br />
Israeli Ron Arad’s<br />
iconic and ambitious<br />
Design Museum<br />
Holon opened<br />
last month after<br />
much anticipation.<br />
An intricate red<br />
sculpture, it stands<br />
out like a beautiful,<br />
angry red thumb,<br />
and is visible from<br />
many vantage<br />
points in Tel Aviv.<br />
Inside is a web of<br />
gallery spaces, this<br />
month hosting its<br />
inaugural exhibition,<br />
The State of Things:<br />
30 APRIL<br />
Beltane Fire Festival<br />
EDINBURGH<br />
This month, join the<br />
throngs of more<br />
than 13,000 lively<br />
locals celebrating<br />
the coming of<br />
summer with the<br />
Beltane Festival on<br />
Edinburgh’s Calton<br />
Hill. Although its<br />
roots can be traced<br />
to an ancient Celtic<br />
fertility festival,<br />
the current event<br />
dates back to<br />
the 1980s. It has,<br />
however, fi rmly<br />
established itself<br />
as a must-see<br />
event, with a huge<br />
bonfi re, around 380<br />
performers, brightly<br />
dressed and painted<br />
torchbearers and<br />
ceremonial rituals.<br />
A spectacular<br />
Design and the 21st<br />
Century. More than<br />
100 objects that<br />
deal with the impact<br />
of contemporary<br />
design are<br />
grouped into eight<br />
categories. Works<br />
include Maarten<br />
Bass’ The Chankley<br />
Bore furniture<br />
collection, which<br />
mixes 1960s pop-art<br />
styling with alien life<br />
forms, and a fi lm of<br />
Max Lamb making<br />
a pewter stool while<br />
describing the<br />
process. dmh.org.il<br />
procession led by<br />
the May Queen is<br />
the highlight of the<br />
evening, with the<br />
queen “awakening”<br />
the elements of fi re,<br />
air, water and earth<br />
so that spring may<br />
begin. Once the<br />
season has offi cially<br />
started, a party<br />
continues into the<br />
night. beltane.org
30 APRIL–1 MAY<br />
SOS 4.8 Festival<br />
MURCIA<br />
The Murcia SOS<br />
Festival has to be<br />
one of the bestvalue<br />
urban music<br />
events this year, with<br />
tickets to this twoday<br />
event costing<br />
from £34.99 (€40).<br />
Don’t go thinking<br />
the low price means<br />
the organisers have<br />
skimped on the<br />
SOUNDS<br />
29 APRIL<br />
Mika<br />
NANTES<br />
London-based eclectic<br />
popstar Mika burst<br />
onto the scene in 2007<br />
with his career-defi ning<br />
song Grace Kelly,<br />
which sold three million<br />
copies worldwide, and<br />
caused many of us to<br />
spontaneously burst<br />
into song for months.<br />
His debut album, Life<br />
in Cartoon Motion,<br />
garnered him the title<br />
of British Breakthrough<br />
Act at the 2008 Brit<br />
Awards. Mika (real<br />
name Michael Holbrook<br />
Penniman) was a<br />
classically trained<br />
singer, which any music<br />
lover with a keen ear<br />
can hear from his wide<br />
vocal range. He’ll be<br />
performing hits from<br />
his most recent album,<br />
The Boy Who Knew<br />
Too Much, and more<br />
on his tour, which takes<br />
in destinations across<br />
Europe, including<br />
Lisbon (16 April), Milan<br />
(21st), Marseille (23rd)<br />
and Nantes on the<br />
29th. mikasounds.com<br />
talent – big name<br />
bands gracing the<br />
stage include The<br />
Horrors (pictured),<br />
Franz Ferdinand<br />
and The Magic<br />
Numbers, plus a<br />
host of local acts,<br />
such as folk singer<br />
Lidia Damunt and<br />
hot new Barcelonan<br />
singer Joe<br />
Crepúsculo. If you<br />
want to escape from<br />
the music for a while<br />
(though why would<br />
you?), then there’s<br />
also a selection of<br />
contemporary art<br />
on show throughout<br />
the two days.<br />
This year’s theme<br />
is Bizarre, so<br />
expect some rather<br />
interesting work on<br />
display. sos48.com<br />
5–10 APRIL<br />
Snowbombing<br />
INNSBRUCK<br />
Spring may be upon<br />
us, but if you’re<br />
not ready to pack<br />
away your ski kit<br />
and you fancy a<br />
fi nal drink (or two)<br />
of schnapps and<br />
glühwein, then the<br />
Snowbombing snow<br />
and music festival<br />
is the perfect outlet.<br />
Celebrate the end of<br />
the season in style<br />
in the picturesque<br />
Alpine resort of<br />
Mayrhofen (less<br />
than an hour from<br />
Innsbruck). It’s the<br />
perfect backdrop<br />
for wobbling<br />
and swaying in<br />
ski boots to an<br />
THE BUZZ | CALENDAR<br />
impressive lineup<br />
of acts, including<br />
DJ extraordinaire<br />
Fatboy Slim, indie<br />
rockers The Enemy<br />
and Friendly Fires,<br />
hip-hop legends<br />
De La Soul and<br />
the popular<br />
Belgian dance act<br />
2manyDJs. Visitors<br />
can choose from<br />
a range of events,<br />
including parties<br />
in the forest or in<br />
a giant igloo, and<br />
there are fancy-<br />
dress competitions<br />
for those keen on<br />
some quirky fun.<br />
Tickets start at<br />
£279 (€320).<br />
snowbombing.com<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 13
THE BUZZ | CALENDAR<br />
10 APRIL<br />
The Grand<br />
National<br />
LIVERPOOL<br />
If you’ve ever<br />
fancied having a<br />
fl utter, there’s no<br />
better race in the<br />
world to place a<br />
bet on than The<br />
Grand National.<br />
The prestigious<br />
race dates back<br />
to 1939, when a<br />
plucky young horse<br />
called Lottery took<br />
the trophy. It’s still<br />
held at Aintree,<br />
near Liverpool,<br />
but the stakes are<br />
certainly higher than<br />
in the event’s early<br />
days – this year, a<br />
record-breaking<br />
£925,000 (€1.05m)<br />
SPORTS<br />
14 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
is up for grabs.<br />
Tricky Trickster is<br />
already tipped as<br />
the favourite, but<br />
the six-year-old<br />
has some stiff<br />
competition sure to<br />
give him a run for<br />
his money over the<br />
course’s 30 fences.<br />
Three former Grand<br />
National winners<br />
are back to see<br />
if they can once<br />
again claim the<br />
title, including Mon<br />
Mome (2009’s<br />
winner), Comply Or<br />
Die (2008’s winner)<br />
and Silver Birch<br />
(2007’s winner).<br />
aintree.co.uk<br />
2–10 APRIL<br />
Marathon des Sables<br />
MARRAKECH<br />
Regarded as the<br />
most gruelling race<br />
and biggest test of<br />
endurance in the<br />
world, the Marathon<br />
des Sables (French<br />
for Marathon of<br />
the Sands) brings<br />
together around<br />
800 (slightly<br />
unhinged?) runners<br />
from around 32<br />
countries to tackle a<br />
254km run over six<br />
days in the Sahara<br />
Desert, in blistering<br />
temperatures<br />
(take that back<br />
– completely<br />
unhinged!).<br />
Competitors have<br />
to tackle a variety of<br />
terrain, from steep<br />
dunes to sandy<br />
tracks, and they<br />
must carry their own<br />
supplies – including<br />
17 APRIL<br />
Swedish Floorball<br />
STOCKHOLM<br />
Floorball is a fastpaced,<br />
frenetic<br />
indoor sport similar<br />
to hockey. It was<br />
developed in the<br />
early 1970s and is<br />
particularly popular<br />
in Scandinavian<br />
countries, especially<br />
Finland and Sweden,<br />
where they have<br />
a minimum of 2,000<br />
calories per day,<br />
plus water. Not<br />
only this, they have<br />
to keep focused<br />
to avoid potential<br />
dangers that include<br />
scorpions, snakes,<br />
spiders, heat stroke<br />
and exhaustion,<br />
crippling blisters and<br />
stomach problems.<br />
darbaroud.com<br />
professional<br />
leagues (Finland’s<br />
Salibandyliiga and<br />
Sweden’s Svenska<br />
Superligan).<br />
Floorball is the<br />
largest indoor sport<br />
in Sweden, and the<br />
season fi nals are<br />
one of the most<br />
eagerly anticipated<br />
sporting events of<br />
the year; the match<br />
is shown live on<br />
TV and attracts<br />
400,000 viewers<br />
for the men’s fi nal.<br />
The event, held<br />
at the Stockholm<br />
Globe, is bound to<br />
be a sell-out, so<br />
book your ticket<br />
early to catch the<br />
fun. globearenas.se<br />
PHOTO © REX
THE BUZZ | CALENDAR<br />
SCREENSHOTS<br />
16 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
BEHIND<br />
THE<br />
SCENES<br />
A-list actresses<br />
may be good<br />
at delivering<br />
authentic accents,<br />
but serving up<br />
screen-stealing<br />
performances in<br />
foreign-language<br />
fi lms? No problem<br />
for the likes of<br />
multi-talented<br />
Tilda Swinton.<br />
The striking lead,<br />
best known for<br />
more mainstream<br />
roles such as The<br />
White Witch in<br />
The Chronicles<br />
of Narnia or<br />
opposite Leonardo<br />
DiCaprio in The<br />
Beach, is utterly<br />
mesmerising in the<br />
Italian melodrama<br />
that is I Am Love.<br />
In a role that<br />
demands both<br />
Russian and Italian<br />
dialogue (neither<br />
of which Swinton<br />
ONE TO WATCH THIS MONTH<br />
Cemetery Junction<br />
Ricky Gervais and<br />
Stephen Merchant<br />
once again join<br />
forces to deliver a<br />
comedy drama that<br />
critics are calling<br />
a cross between<br />
The Offi ce and Mad<br />
Men. The comingof-age<br />
story takes<br />
place in 1970s<br />
I Am Love<br />
Reading – Gervais’<br />
hometown – and<br />
focuses on three<br />
young upstart<br />
professionals.<br />
Just 65km west<br />
of London, Reading<br />
is synonymous with<br />
students, music<br />
festivals and canals<br />
(the town is at the<br />
knew beforehand),<br />
the Oscar-winning<br />
actress leads a<br />
talented cast of<br />
Italian thespians<br />
through a<br />
sensitively realised<br />
tale of repression,<br />
passion and<br />
unconditional love.<br />
The beautiful<br />
northern Italian city<br />
of Milan, on the eve<br />
of the Millennium,<br />
provides the<br />
backdrop for this<br />
articulate drama.<br />
The action focuses<br />
on the trials<br />
and tribulations<br />
of a wealthy<br />
industrialist family<br />
as relationships<br />
intertwine and<br />
interchange<br />
amid the opulent<br />
surrounds of a<br />
sprawling art deco<br />
Milanese villa.<br />
Fans of more<br />
traditional Italian<br />
buildings would do<br />
well to pay a visit to<br />
the hugely iconic<br />
confl uence of the<br />
River Thames and<br />
River Kennet). An<br />
unlikely setting<br />
perhaps for this<br />
“period piece”, but<br />
with Gervais both<br />
behind and in front<br />
of the camera and<br />
with the likes of<br />
Oscar-nominated<br />
Milan Cathedral<br />
– equally wellknown<br />
as Duomo<br />
di Milano. The<br />
stunning tribute to<br />
Gothic architecture<br />
took fi ve centuries<br />
to complete and is<br />
the fourth-largest<br />
cathedral in<br />
the world.<br />
For a glimpse<br />
of the authentic<br />
Milanese middle<br />
class, be sure to<br />
take an afternoon<br />
strolling through<br />
Galleria Vittorio<br />
Emanuele II,<br />
just off the main<br />
Piazza del Duomo.<br />
The Galleria is<br />
a 130-year-old,<br />
glass-ceilinged<br />
shopping arcade<br />
with four fl oors of<br />
high end boutiques,<br />
shops and cafés<br />
favoured by Milan’s<br />
chattering classes.<br />
actors Ralph<br />
Fiennes and Emily<br />
Watson playing<br />
supporting roles,<br />
we’re sure this<br />
awkward but<br />
heart-warming<br />
comedy will strike<br />
the right note with<br />
Gervais’ legions<br />
of fans.
WORDS STEVE O’ROURKE<br />
GUIDE TO TURIN FILM<br />
The National<br />
Cinema Museum is<br />
situated inside the<br />
Mole Antonelliana,<br />
once the tallest<br />
masonry structure<br />
in Europe at over<br />
165m. The tower<br />
is synonymous<br />
with Turin, but<br />
inside, the museum<br />
takes on a life of<br />
its own. Spread<br />
COMING SOON<br />
12–23 MAY<br />
Cannes International<br />
Film Festival<br />
In a case of life<br />
imitating art,<br />
the Cannes<br />
International Film<br />
Festival is such a<br />
visual extravaganza<br />
it often threatens<br />
to overshadow its<br />
raison d’être of<br />
celebrating cinema’s<br />
best. Now in its 63rd<br />
year, it’s one of the<br />
best-known of all<br />
fi lm festivals and<br />
takes place 35km<br />
from Nice Airport.<br />
WHERE TO<br />
WATCH<br />
THE FILMS<br />
The good news:<br />
with 35,000 fi lm<br />
over fi ve fl oors<br />
there’s a wealth<br />
of memorabilia,<br />
continuously<br />
playing movies and<br />
shorts, substantial<br />
collections focusing<br />
on pre-cinema and<br />
early photography<br />
and masses of<br />
costumes, props,<br />
archived documents<br />
and books. Be sure<br />
professionals and<br />
4,000 members<br />
of the media, this<br />
is the largest,<br />
most infl uential<br />
fi lm festival on the<br />
planet. The bad<br />
news: in terms<br />
of getting to see<br />
the fi lms, if your<br />
name’s not on the<br />
door, you won’t get<br />
in. The majority<br />
of screenings are<br />
by invitation only,<br />
though there’s also<br />
the Marché du Film<br />
on at the same<br />
time – the largest<br />
international fi lm<br />
market where over<br />
10,000 participants<br />
to check out the<br />
in-depth look at<br />
the iconographic<br />
variants which have<br />
characterised the<br />
fi gure of Christ in<br />
the history of fi lm;<br />
a hugely thought-<br />
provoking exhibition<br />
that runs until<br />
6 June.<br />
museonazionale<br />
delcinema.it<br />
from over 90<br />
countries watch, buy<br />
and sell movies.<br />
WHERE TO<br />
WATCH<br />
THE STARS<br />
Cannes is the<br />
epicentre for A-list<br />
celebrities. Every<br />
evening, gala<br />
screenings are held<br />
at the Grand Théâtre<br />
Lumière at 7pm and<br />
10pm. Expect red-<br />
carpet glamour and<br />
a paparazzi scrum.<br />
During the day,<br />
stroll along the<br />
Croisette, past its<br />
star-factor hotels<br />
and restaurants.<br />
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chosen by Danica Patrick - IndyCar ® Driver<br />
IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME<br />
Experience more at www.tissot.ch
THE BUZZ | AMSTERDAM<br />
INSIDER’S<br />
GUIDE<br />
“WALKING THE<br />
streets of<br />
Amsterdam is like<br />
walking through<br />
history. All you need<br />
to travel in time,<br />
back to the era of<br />
the Dutch Masters,<br />
is the city’s 17thcentury<br />
décor and<br />
your imagination.”<br />
Artist Michiel van der<br />
Born is inspired by<br />
the craftsmanship<br />
of his predecessors<br />
and mixes their<br />
techniques<br />
with his take on<br />
typography – the<br />
art of arranging<br />
type. His exhibition<br />
26 Characters,<br />
held this month at<br />
the GO Gallery (64<br />
Prinsengracht),<br />
features a series of<br />
paintings, sculptures<br />
and drawings in<br />
which Michiel<br />
transforms letters<br />
into lively characters.<br />
He invited us to his<br />
studio to share his<br />
favourite places in<br />
Amsterdam.<br />
WHEN I’M<br />
HUNGRY<br />
I go crazy for apple<br />
pie, especially the<br />
freshly baked ones<br />
at Winkel 43 (43<br />
Noordermarkt,<br />
tel: +31 (0)20<br />
623 0223). For<br />
great value-formoney<br />
meals in an<br />
inspiring scene, hit<br />
TYPOGRAPHY ARTIST<br />
Michiel van<br />
der Born<br />
gives us the lowdown<br />
on his favourite<br />
places to hang out in<br />
AMSTERDAM<br />
18 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
Noorderlicht (33<br />
TT Neveritaweg) on<br />
the NDSM territory,<br />
a former shipyard<br />
turned creative hub.<br />
The view of the city<br />
skyline with its eyepopping<br />
sunsets is<br />
hard to beat.<br />
WHEN I’M<br />
THIRSTY<br />
Since I work from<br />
my studio at home,<br />
I like to get out and<br />
grab a coffee at the<br />
Coffee Company<br />
(32 Middenweg). It<br />
has big communal<br />
tables where I sit and<br />
read a magazine to<br />
revitalise and bring<br />
home fresh ideas.<br />
Café Maxwell (27<br />
Beukenplein) at the<br />
corner of my street<br />
is the extension of<br />
my living room and<br />
my favourite place<br />
for a beer or two.<br />
WHEN I’M<br />
LOOKING FOR<br />
INSPIRATION<br />
The Amsterdam<br />
Historical Museum<br />
(357 Nieuwezijds<br />
Voorburgwal) and<br />
Rijksmuseum (42<br />
Stadhouderskade)<br />
both exhibit works<br />
by Dutch Masters.<br />
I also like to head<br />
to the Amsterdam<br />
Zoo, Artis (38<br />
Plantage Kerklaan).<br />
I studied the fur<br />
of the monkeys<br />
there for one of<br />
my typography<br />
characters.<br />
WHEN I WANT<br />
TO RELAX<br />
As soon as<br />
spring kicks in,<br />
the Oosterpark<br />
becomes my<br />
backyard. This is<br />
the place where<br />
my friends and I<br />
come together for<br />
an urban picnic. It is<br />
the most colourful<br />
park in Amsterdam,<br />
bringing together<br />
different cultures.<br />
WHEN I WANT<br />
TO SHOP<br />
I regularly hit The<br />
American Book<br />
Center (2 Spui). As<br />
the name suggests,<br />
this shop sells hardto-fi<br />
nd books and<br />
magazines from<br />
the US. My top<br />
buy is Juxtapoz, a<br />
magazine on pop<br />
surrealism. When<br />
I fancy something<br />
sweet to tickle my<br />
tastebuds, I go to<br />
Puccini Bomboni<br />
(17 Staalstraat).<br />
We’re talking about<br />
a whole new level<br />
of chocolate here<br />
– and I’m proud to<br />
say I’m an addict.<br />
INTERVIEW AND PHOTO ROOS SMIT
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TRAVEL<br />
NEWS<br />
Mirror Bar, Jerusalem<br />
TEL AVIV<br />
Jerusalem is<br />
dazzlingly rich in<br />
history, spirituality,<br />
literature and art.<br />
But when it comes to<br />
contemporary design,<br />
international cuisine<br />
and a sophisticated<br />
nightlife scene, its<br />
funky, coastal cousin<br />
Tel Aviv (which is only<br />
65km away) wins<br />
hands down. When<br />
Spanish architect<br />
Santiago Calatrava<br />
unveiled his harp-like<br />
Bridge of Strings in<br />
2008 for the city’s<br />
new light-rail system,<br />
Jerusalemites began<br />
to nurture a taste<br />
for modernity and<br />
have started fl ocking<br />
to the new sleek<br />
Mirror Bar at the<br />
Mamilla Hotel. Italian<br />
design maven Piero<br />
Lissoni has created<br />
an intimate space<br />
with moody lighting<br />
and a minimalist<br />
aesthetic and chef<br />
Roi Antebi cooks<br />
up delicious dishes<br />
from Asia, France,<br />
Italy and Israel to<br />
complement the<br />
international cocktail<br />
list. Next door there’s<br />
a separate, enclosed<br />
Cigar Lounge and<br />
Winery, which stocks<br />
one of the largest<br />
THE BUZZ | HOT SPOTS<br />
selections of Israeli<br />
kosher wines in the<br />
country. Upstairs,<br />
the Mamilla Rooftop<br />
brasserie (opening<br />
this month) serves<br />
Italian food and<br />
boasts breathtaking<br />
views of the Old<br />
City walls, the Tower<br />
of David and Jaffa<br />
Gate. And for those<br />
wanting an ultrahealthy<br />
hangout, the<br />
Earth lounge and bar<br />
has a range of raw<br />
dishes and juices.<br />
mamillahotel.com/<br />
mirrorbar<br />
Jeroen Bergmans<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 21
THE BUZZ | HOT SPOTS<br />
Nottingham<br />
Contemporary<br />
DONCASTER/<br />
SHEFFIELD<br />
It’s been 10 years<br />
in the planning,<br />
but the 3,000m 2 ,<br />
super-futuristic<br />
Nottingham<br />
Contemporary<br />
art museum has<br />
fi nally opened. The<br />
striking green and<br />
gold building by<br />
British architects<br />
Caruso St John<br />
features embossed<br />
lace patterns on<br />
its exterior, which<br />
reference the local<br />
The Merchant’s Yard<br />
LONDON<br />
Good quality Russian food was hard to fi nd<br />
in London until The Merchant’s Yard opened<br />
in February. The store, whose shelves<br />
are stacked with food fi t for a Tzar, is in<br />
Knightsbridge (of course, darling), and is<br />
your one-stop-shop for delicacies such as<br />
Russian sweets, bubliks (similar to bagels),<br />
raznosoly (pickled vegetables) and plenty<br />
of vodka, naturally. themerchantsyard.co.uk<br />
Claire Martin<br />
22 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
TRAVEL<br />
NEWS<br />
area’s history as<br />
a centre of lace<br />
production. Imbued<br />
with history, the land<br />
that the museum<br />
now sits on has at<br />
different times been<br />
the site of a Saxon<br />
fort, a medieval town<br />
hall and a Victorian<br />
railway station.<br />
Now, a sleek new<br />
venue with four<br />
exhibition rooms<br />
and a performance<br />
space will feature<br />
international<br />
works, as well as<br />
showcasing local,<br />
undiscovered artists.<br />
This month, check<br />
out Star City (until<br />
17 April), which<br />
illustrates how the<br />
future was imagined<br />
under communism.<br />
Entrance to the<br />
museum is free.<br />
nottingham<br />
contemporary.org<br />
Amy Dennis<br />
Pestana Chelsea<br />
Bridge Hotel and Spa<br />
LONDON<br />
The fabulous, four-star Pestana<br />
Chelsea Bridge Hotel and Spa is<br />
ideally located, close to Battersea<br />
Park and just a stone’s throw from the<br />
trendy shops and restaurants of King’s<br />
Road. All 216 rooms feature stateof-the-art<br />
technology and marblefi<br />
nished bathrooms, with some even<br />
boasting splash-proof TVs. Book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com Claire Martin<br />
Spa Clarins<br />
LA ROCHELLE<br />
Tourists have<br />
fl ocked to the<br />
picturesque island<br />
of Île de Ré for<br />
decades to feast on<br />
delicious oysters,<br />
fi ne local wines and<br />
aged Cognacs. Now<br />
you can combine<br />
its epicurean<br />
delights with a<br />
spot of pampering<br />
thanks to the brand<br />
new spa at posh<br />
boutique hotel Le<br />
Clos Saint-Martin.<br />
Its “route des<br />
plantes” botanical<br />
treatments range<br />
from €95 for the<br />
Sweet Ocean fullbody<br />
detox wrap<br />
to the three-hour<br />
Ocean Sprays<br />
therapeutic<br />
wrap with body<br />
treatment, facial<br />
and fl ower tea ritual,<br />
which will set you<br />
back €260. For<br />
those on a budget,<br />
€15 gets you access<br />
to the sensorial<br />
shower, goldentiled<br />
hamam and<br />
relaxation room with<br />
complimentary hot<br />
herbal teas.<br />
le-clos-saintmartin.com<br />
Jeroen Bergmans
Valmann Bar<br />
& Club<br />
ZURICH<br />
Architects Riccardo<br />
Salvi and Luca<br />
Rossire, the brains<br />
behind the seriously<br />
stylish Home<br />
restaurant in Milan,<br />
have pulled it out of<br />
the bag once again,<br />
masterminding<br />
the revamp of the<br />
Valmann Bar &<br />
Club, located in the<br />
heart of Zürich’s<br />
city centre. Their<br />
brief was to create<br />
a multi-functional<br />
space so that the<br />
bar could exist as a<br />
chilled-out drinking<br />
spot during the<br />
early evening, and<br />
then transform into<br />
a funky dance club<br />
from 10pm until<br />
closing time. Small,<br />
leather coffee tables<br />
are pushed together<br />
to become long<br />
cylindrical sofas<br />
that line the walls<br />
to make space for<br />
a dancefl oor. The<br />
dark-green, resin<br />
fl oor tiling creates a<br />
sleek and upmarket<br />
feel, and the black<br />
leather circles on<br />
the wall with bold<br />
LED back-lighting<br />
set the tone for this<br />
sultry nightspot.<br />
valmann.ch<br />
Claire Martin<br />
Geox at the<br />
Breathing Building<br />
MILAN<br />
Fancy Italian footwear brand Geox made<br />
its name and fortune from rubbersoled,<br />
waterproof shoes that “breathe”<br />
through micro-holes, keeping your feet<br />
dry and fragrant. So it’s no surprise that<br />
when the brand decided to open a new<br />
fl agship store in Milan, it overhauled an<br />
existing palazzo and re-christened it the<br />
Breathing Building. The store opened on<br />
Via Torino during last month’s fashion<br />
week and includes two fl oors’ worth<br />
of shop window displays, plus 800m 2<br />
of shop fl oor dedicated to showcasing<br />
Geox’s footwear and fashion ranges for<br />
men, women and kids. Architect Dante<br />
Benini clad the rest of the building<br />
with hundreds of thin, stainless-steel,<br />
perforated plates in gold, bronze and<br />
copper. Opened and closed via a<br />
computerised movement system similar<br />
to the ones used in airplane fl aps, the<br />
plates shimmer and act like a beacon for<br />
the brand in Italy’s fashion capital.<br />
geox.com Jeroen Bergmans
THE BUZZ | MUNICH<br />
24 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10
COMING<br />
UP<br />
Pavilion 21 MINI<br />
Opera Space<br />
MUNICH<br />
It’s not often that<br />
an opera house can<br />
be taken apart and<br />
stored in a shipping<br />
container, but this<br />
year’s venue for<br />
the Munich Opera<br />
Festival (24 June to<br />
31 July) is unique<br />
in more ways than<br />
one. The Pavilion<br />
21 will take just two<br />
months to construct<br />
on the city’s central<br />
Marstallplatz, where<br />
it will become the<br />
temporary home of<br />
the Bavarian State<br />
Opera. During the<br />
summer, up to<br />
300 spectators<br />
at a time will take<br />
their seats in the<br />
€2.1m creation.<br />
Architects Coop<br />
Himmelb(l)au<br />
created a form to<br />
“materialise music<br />
into architecture”.<br />
They selected<br />
songs, including<br />
Jimi Hendrix’s<br />
Purple Haze, and<br />
analysed the<br />
frequencies of the<br />
sounds, linking them<br />
to a 3D computergenerated<br />
model.<br />
The original image<br />
of the 21m-long<br />
building was<br />
transformed from<br />
THE BUZZ | MUNICH<br />
a plain shell into<br />
the fi nal pyramid<br />
shapes that<br />
represent the<br />
soundwaves of the<br />
music. Placed as it is<br />
in a city centre busy<br />
with passing traffi c,<br />
the ambient noise<br />
was a worry for<br />
festival organisers.<br />
It proved technically<br />
impossible to create<br />
the absolute “zone<br />
of silence” the<br />
designers would<br />
have liked, but only<br />
helicopters, sirens,<br />
and low-fl ying<br />
planes will interrupt<br />
performances.<br />
Although<br />
it follows the<br />
contemporary<br />
trend of “pop-up”<br />
bars, shops and<br />
restaurants, the<br />
design was inspired<br />
by the traditional<br />
practice of music<br />
and theatre groups<br />
travelling from town<br />
to town. After its<br />
brief life as an opera<br />
house, Pavilion<br />
21 could become<br />
a lecture hall or<br />
theatre anywhere<br />
in Europe. In the<br />
meantime, it will<br />
be stored in pieces.<br />
coop-himmelblau.at<br />
Julia Reid<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 25
TASTE<br />
BUDS<br />
REGIONAL DISH<br />
Caponata<br />
THIS HEALTHY<br />
and fi lling Sicilian<br />
stew is packed with<br />
vegetables and<br />
typically served as<br />
antipasti or a side<br />
dish. Arguably the<br />
southern Italian<br />
island’s best-known<br />
fare, at the heart<br />
of the recipe is<br />
aubergine, which is<br />
succulently sweet<br />
thanks to months<br />
of Mediterranean<br />
sunshine – perfect<br />
for this sweet and<br />
sour dish.<br />
Sicily has<br />
belonged to many<br />
different countries<br />
throughout history,<br />
including France,<br />
Greece, Spain and<br />
Tunisia, and these<br />
infl uences pervade<br />
its cuisine. Caponata<br />
is distinctly north<br />
African in fl avour<br />
with the addition<br />
of raisins and<br />
pine kernels.<br />
The dish is<br />
easy to make and<br />
incredibly versatile.<br />
Follow Antonio<br />
Carluccio’s recipe<br />
in his book Simple<br />
Cooking (£20/<br />
€23), published<br />
by Quadrille.<br />
Or, try it at one<br />
of these three great<br />
restaurants:<br />
CAPONATA<br />
LONDON<br />
This aptly named<br />
restaurant in<br />
bohemian Camden<br />
serves its caponata<br />
as a starter with<br />
freshly baked olive<br />
bread. 3–7 Delancey<br />
Street, NW1, tel: +44<br />
(0)20 7387 5959<br />
CIN CIN<br />
PALERMO<br />
For a helping of the<br />
real deal, you’ve got<br />
to order caponata<br />
in its place of origin:<br />
Sicily. Cin Cin is one<br />
of Palermo’s best<br />
restaurants and<br />
serves its caponata<br />
THE BUZZ | SICILIAN STEW<br />
as antipasti with<br />
octopus, almonds<br />
and cacao – heaven.<br />
22 Via Manin, tel:<br />
+39 091 612 4095<br />
AL VINO AL VINO<br />
ROME<br />
Rome is home to the<br />
best Italian cuisine,<br />
with restaurants<br />
offering dishes<br />
from Piedmont in<br />
the north, to Sicily<br />
and Puglia in the<br />
south. Al Vino al Vino<br />
serves caponata<br />
on small pieces of<br />
bread. 19 Via dei<br />
Serpentini, tel: +39<br />
06 485 803<br />
Claire Martin<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 27
THE BUZZ | PINK OYSTERS<br />
SALON DE GOURMETS 12–15 APRIL<br />
MADRID<br />
This month sees<br />
the 24th Salón<br />
de Gourmets<br />
international fair.<br />
Since its humble<br />
inaugural event<br />
in 1987, where it<br />
attracted 8,000<br />
visitors and 73<br />
exhibitors, it’s gone<br />
from strength to<br />
strength, becoming<br />
one of Europe’s<br />
largest and most<br />
Pearl of the Med<br />
The sought-after Pink Diamond is a<br />
succulent new variety of oyster grown<br />
with green energy and extra sunshine<br />
28 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
prestigious<br />
gatherings for<br />
gastronomic<br />
professionals, and<br />
non-professionals<br />
with a passion<br />
for good food.<br />
Last year, the fair<br />
brought together<br />
almost 80,000<br />
visitors across the<br />
four-day event,<br />
and it’s expected<br />
that this year will<br />
be bigger and<br />
better than ever.<br />
Exhibitors from<br />
16 countries will<br />
display a variety<br />
of ingredients and<br />
produce, including<br />
oil, cold-cut meats,<br />
vegetables, cheese,<br />
coffee, wine, cakes<br />
and chocolate.<br />
Specifi c events<br />
throughout the<br />
festival include the<br />
expert ham carving<br />
competition,<br />
the Gourmets<br />
Wine Awards, the<br />
oyster-opening<br />
competition and<br />
plenty of tastings<br />
of everything from<br />
wine to chorizo and<br />
every type of olive<br />
imaginable. Salón<br />
de Gourmets will be<br />
held at the IFEMA<br />
Exhibition Center<br />
in Madrid.<br />
gourmets.net<br />
Claire Martin<br />
TASTE<br />
BUDS<br />
LANGUEDOC-<br />
Roussillon, a<br />
beautiful region in<br />
the south of France,<br />
has long played<br />
second fi ddle to its<br />
glittering cousin<br />
the Côte d’Azur.<br />
However, this more<br />
rural area has<br />
retained its roots<br />
in a way that the<br />
celeb-strewn resorts<br />
of Cannes and St<br />
Tropez have not.<br />
This isn’t just<br />
evident in the<br />
cobbled streets<br />
of the region’s<br />
medieval towns and<br />
quaint harbours but<br />
in the swathes of<br />
vineyards that cover<br />
the countryside and<br />
the rustic food still<br />
served everywhere<br />
from Michelinstarred<br />
restaurants<br />
to local bistros.<br />
Chief among<br />
local delicacies is<br />
seafood and the<br />
king of the platter is<br />
the oyster. Though<br />
not exactly known<br />
for its looks, the<br />
oyster has captured<br />
a special place<br />
in the hearts of<br />
foodies the world<br />
over. It’s believed to<br />
have aphrodisiac<br />
qualities and, as one<br />
of the most costly<br />
foods available, it<br />
has also acquired<br />
an association<br />
with wealth.<br />
HOWEVER,<br />
now you can have<br />
molluscs that not<br />
only taste good but<br />
look good too. The<br />
Pink Diamond is a<br />
new style of locally<br />
produced oyster<br />
with a pink shell,<br />
coloured by the<br />
rays of the sun. This<br />
variety is unique<br />
to the Languedoc<br />
and only one<br />
farmer currently<br />
produces it, making<br />
it both sought<br />
after and twice<br />
as expensive as<br />
standard products.<br />
Then again, twice<br />
the effort goes into<br />
growing it, with a<br />
system that makes<br />
innovative use of<br />
green energy.<br />
“We modernised<br />
our facility to
ecreate the tidal<br />
aspects of the sea,”<br />
says Frédéric Garcia<br />
of Tarbouriech<br />
Oysters, a family<br />
fi rm that has been<br />
farming oysters<br />
since the 1960s.<br />
“We created a<br />
solar-powered<br />
mechanism by<br />
which the oyster<br />
frames could be<br />
lifted from the water<br />
and held in the sun.<br />
This replicates the<br />
natural tidal nature<br />
of the sea, where<br />
oysters are forced<br />
out of the water<br />
at low tide. Such<br />
interaction with the<br />
air and sun makes<br />
the product better<br />
and causes the<br />
shells to generate<br />
their special colour.”<br />
THE TARBOURIECH<br />
operation lies in the<br />
Bassin de Thau,<br />
a tideless lagoon<br />
near Bouzigues.<br />
By artifi cially<br />
recreating tides,<br />
Frédéric claims<br />
oysters grown on<br />
his frames and<br />
lifted repeatedly<br />
from the water have<br />
to “struggle” to<br />
survive. “This forces<br />
them to produce<br />
higher levels of<br />
glycogen, a kind of<br />
sugar, making them<br />
grow a more dense<br />
muscle structure,<br />
which gives a better<br />
taste and texture.”<br />
Tarbouriech also<br />
farms oysters in the<br />
traditional way, with<br />
the Pink Diamonds<br />
FOOD FOR<br />
THOUGHT<br />
Casanova, the<br />
famous 18thcentury<br />
lover,<br />
was said to eat<br />
50 oysters for<br />
breakfast every day.<br />
accounting for<br />
around 20% of<br />
production. Interest<br />
is growing thanks<br />
to the work of<br />
Sud de France, a<br />
consortium set<br />
up to promote<br />
regional delicacies.<br />
Renowned French<br />
chef Alain Ducasse<br />
has heaped praise<br />
on Pink Diamonds<br />
and they are also<br />
in demand in select<br />
restaurants across<br />
the Continent.<br />
“The Sud<br />
de France pink<br />
oysters are quite<br />
exceptional, an<br />
authentic product<br />
of amazing quality,”<br />
says local chef<br />
Pierre-Olivier<br />
Prouhèze. “They’re<br />
larger than other<br />
oysters raised in<br />
this part of France<br />
and have a subtle,<br />
nutty taste.”<br />
Locals tend to<br />
eat them around<br />
New Year, partnered<br />
with local Limoux<br />
sparkling wine.<br />
Otherwise, they are<br />
popular through<br />
spring and summer<br />
when various<br />
festivals in the<br />
region promote<br />
local seafood.<br />
According to<br />
experts, the best<br />
way of eating<br />
oysters is raw and<br />
they should be<br />
chewed rather<br />
than swallowed<br />
whole. “I prefer to<br />
keep things simple,<br />
otherwise you<br />
spoil the delicate<br />
fl avours,” says<br />
Pierre-Olivier.<br />
“I present Pink<br />
Diamond oysters<br />
with just a squeeze<br />
of lemon juice,<br />
and maybe some<br />
slices of brown<br />
bread and salted<br />
Normandy butter.”<br />
Laura Latham<br />
WHERE TO<br />
FIND SUD<br />
DE FRANCE<br />
PINK DIAMOND<br />
OYSTERS<br />
PROUHEZE<br />
SAVEURS<br />
MONTPELLIER<br />
Star chef Pierre-<br />
Olivier Prouhèze<br />
celebrates the best<br />
of the Languedoc’s<br />
produce and<br />
seafood in his chic<br />
bistro. 728 Avenue<br />
de la Pompignane,<br />
tel: +33 (0)4 6779<br />
4334<br />
QUINZI &<br />
GABRIELI<br />
ROME<br />
Offering “a taste<br />
of the sea in the<br />
heart of Rome”, this<br />
stylish restaurant<br />
serves up fresh<br />
fi sh and seafood<br />
alongside quality<br />
Mediterranean fare.<br />
5 Via delle Coppelle,<br />
tel: +39 (0)6 687<br />
9389<br />
DA VITTORIO<br />
MILAN<br />
This Relais &<br />
Chateau restaurant<br />
and hotel is located<br />
in a beautiful villa<br />
near Bergamo<br />
and specialises in<br />
Lombardy cuisine<br />
and seafood. 17<br />
Via Cantalupa,<br />
Brusaporto, tel:<br />
+39 (0)35 681 024<br />
BRINGING GOODS<br />
INTO THE UK?<br />
PLAN AHEAD:<br />
KNOW YOUR<br />
ALLOWANCES 200 cigarettes; OR<br />
100 cigarillos; OR<br />
50 cigars; OR<br />
250g tobacco<br />
From within the EU:<br />
You can bring in<br />
as much duty paid<br />
alcohol and tobacco<br />
as you like, as long<br />
as it is for your own<br />
use and transported<br />
by you.<br />
From outside the EU:<br />
The allowances<br />
listed here apply free<br />
of UK duty or tax, as<br />
long as goods are for<br />
your own use and are<br />
transported by you.<br />
The allowances<br />
are only available<br />
to those aged 17<br />
and over.<br />
If we have reason<br />
to suspect that<br />
goods are not for<br />
your own use, you<br />
may be stopped and<br />
questioned by a<br />
UK Border Agency<br />
officer and your<br />
goods may be siezed.<br />
TOBACCO<br />
ALCOHOL<br />
16 litres of beer<br />
4 litres of still<br />
table wine<br />
1 litre of spirits or<br />
strong liqueurs over<br />
22% volume; OR<br />
2 litres of fortified<br />
wine (such as port<br />
or sherry), sparkling<br />
wine or other liqueurs<br />
OTHER GOODS<br />
£390 worth of all<br />
other goods including<br />
gifts and souvenirs<br />
SECURING OUR BORDER<br />
CONTROLLING MIGRATION<br />
Full allowance details are available online at<br />
www.ukba.homeoffice.gov.uk/allowances
THE BUZZ | SHOPPING<br />
MADE IN<br />
Paris<br />
Take home a<br />
memento of your<br />
Parisian sojourn<br />
1 2 3 4 5<br />
Feather Duster<br />
€10<br />
Practice your Moulin<br />
Rouge moves while you<br />
do your chores with<br />
this luxe ostrich-feather<br />
duster from Perigot. It<br />
comes in three sizes,<br />
though the smallest<br />
is best for popping in<br />
your hand luggage.<br />
Mixing decadence<br />
with practicality, it will<br />
remind you of Parisian<br />
frivolity every time you<br />
do the dusting.<br />
Perigot,<br />
Carrousel de Louvre,<br />
99 Rue de Rivoli,<br />
perigot.fr<br />
30 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
1<br />
Metal Postcard<br />
€6<br />
Cartexpo specialises<br />
in vintage advertising<br />
on metal plates and<br />
you’ll be hard pressed<br />
to get your hands on<br />
a more iconic image<br />
of Paris than this<br />
retro Eiffel Tower.<br />
You’ll fi nd it alongside<br />
other pictorial gems<br />
at the Marché aux<br />
Puces, which is the<br />
capital’s most famous<br />
fl eamarket. Also look<br />
out for vintage travel<br />
posters, postcards<br />
and magazines.<br />
Marché aux Puces,<br />
Saint-Ouen,<br />
les-puces.com<br />
4<br />
Macarons<br />
€11.50 FOR A BOX<br />
OF SEVEN<br />
As synonymous with<br />
Paris as the Eiffel<br />
Tower and the Mona<br />
Lisa, the macaron is<br />
a delectable pastry<br />
made from egg whites,<br />
almond paste and<br />
sugar. Buy a box from<br />
the historic Angelina<br />
teashop near the<br />
Place de la Concorde,<br />
which displays its<br />
jewel-like macarons in<br />
a glass cabinet in the<br />
entranceway.<br />
226 Rue de Rivoli,<br />
groupe-bertrand.com<br />
Paper Vase<br />
€8.90<br />
Designophiles have<br />
been fl ocking to Merci<br />
concept store since<br />
it opened last year.<br />
Combining new pieces<br />
with one-off vintage<br />
fi nds, Merci caters to<br />
a hip clientele after<br />
the latest in boho-chic.<br />
The appeal of this<br />
vase is in its visual<br />
trickery – fl owers<br />
don’t sit directly inside<br />
the paper frame<br />
(which folds away for<br />
transporting), but in a<br />
glass tube concealed<br />
within. 111 Boulevard<br />
Beaumarchais,<br />
merci-merci.com<br />
2<br />
Photography<br />
Book<br />
€49<br />
The iconic Musée<br />
D’Orsay in Paris was<br />
the fi rst fi ne arts<br />
museum in France to<br />
hold regular exhibitions<br />
of photography.<br />
Today it has over<br />
50,000 prints and<br />
this lavish anthology<br />
of the collection<br />
covers photography in<br />
France from 1839 to<br />
1925, including some<br />
stunning portraiture.<br />
Musée D’Orsay shop,<br />
62 Rue de Lille,<br />
musee-orsay.fr<br />
3<br />
5<br />
WORDS MARIE CLELAND
THE BUZZ | EASTER TRADITIONS<br />
Hopping Good Fun<br />
From elaborate parades to pagan games, Easter<br />
celebrations in Europe are full of surprises<br />
Easter Eggstravaganza<br />
at Chatsworth House<br />
DONCASTER/<br />
SHEFFIELD<br />
The famous<br />
country house<br />
of Chatsworth,<br />
nestled among the<br />
rolling hills of the<br />
Peak District, is only<br />
30 minutes from<br />
Sheffi eld, and the<br />
perfect destination<br />
for Easter egg<br />
32 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
hunting on a<br />
bright spring day<br />
(fi ngers crossed<br />
the weather holds).<br />
The beautiful 16thcentury<br />
manor<br />
house, easily<br />
recognisable as<br />
the setting for<br />
fi lms such as The<br />
Duchess and Pride<br />
and Prejudice,<br />
offers an itinerary<br />
of Easter-themed<br />
activities for<br />
all the family.<br />
Highlights include<br />
face painting, egg<br />
painting, a parade<br />
and, of course,<br />
the egg hunt.<br />
Thousands of eggs<br />
are dotted around<br />
the grand estate<br />
3<br />
OF THE<br />
BEST<br />
and after being led<br />
in procession by a<br />
giant Easter bunny,<br />
families get stuck in<br />
searching the fi elds<br />
and landscaped<br />
gardens for<br />
chocolate treats.<br />
The hunt takes<br />
place four times<br />
daily from 1–5 April.<br />
chatsworth.org<br />
Semana Santa<br />
MALAGA<br />
Holy week is the<br />
most important<br />
religious event<br />
in Spain. While<br />
Málaga’s<br />
celebrations are not<br />
as sombre as those<br />
in other cities, the<br />
public still pays its<br />
respects to scenes<br />
of the Passion of<br />
Christ displayed on<br />
fl oats during the<br />
Pomlázkas<br />
PRAGUE<br />
One of the more<br />
unusual Easter<br />
customs takes<br />
place in the Czech<br />
Republic on Easter<br />
Monday. Boys gather<br />
up willow branches<br />
(pomlázkas) and go<br />
from house to house<br />
lightly whipping girls<br />
on their legs. It may<br />
sound barbaric,<br />
but the whipping is<br />
elaborate Easter<br />
parades. As part of<br />
the processions,<br />
candle bearers dress<br />
in white robes and<br />
hoods (capirote)<br />
and large fl oats<br />
(weighing up to fi ve<br />
tonnes) make their<br />
way through the<br />
city, after which a<br />
jubilant fi esta rounds<br />
off the weekend.<br />
malagaturismo.com<br />
meant to be more<br />
a symbolic gesture<br />
than a punishment.<br />
The custom dates<br />
back to pagan times<br />
and is supposed to<br />
chase away illness<br />
and bad spirits, as<br />
well as bestowing<br />
beauty, health and<br />
vivacity. In return,<br />
girls give the boys<br />
beautifully painted<br />
eggs or chocolate.<br />
WORDS AMY DENNIS
THE BUZZ | EASTER TRADITIONS<br />
Hopping Good Fun<br />
From elaborate parades to pagan games, Easter<br />
celebrations in Europe are full of surprises<br />
Easter Eggstravaganza<br />
at Chatsworth House<br />
DONCASTER/<br />
SHEFFIELD<br />
The famous<br />
country house<br />
of Chatsworth,<br />
nestled among the<br />
rolling hills of the<br />
Peak District, is only<br />
30 minutes from<br />
Sheffi eld, and the<br />
perfect destination<br />
for Easter egg<br />
32 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
hunting on a<br />
bright spring day<br />
(fi ngers crossed<br />
the weather holds).<br />
The beautiful 16thcentury<br />
manor<br />
house, easily<br />
recognisable as<br />
the setting for<br />
fi lms such as The<br />
Duchess and Pride<br />
and Prejudice,<br />
offers an itinerary<br />
of Easter-themed<br />
activities for<br />
all the family.<br />
Highlights include<br />
face painting, egg<br />
painting, a parade<br />
and, of course,<br />
the egg hunt.<br />
Thousands of eggs<br />
are dotted around<br />
the grand estate<br />
3<br />
OF THE<br />
BEST<br />
and after being led<br />
in procession by a<br />
giant Easter bunny,<br />
families get stuck in<br />
searching the fi elds<br />
and landscaped<br />
gardens for<br />
chocolate treats.<br />
The hunt takes<br />
place four times<br />
daily from 1–5 April.<br />
chatsworth.org<br />
Semana Santa<br />
MALAGA<br />
Holy week is the<br />
most important<br />
religious event<br />
in Spain. While<br />
Málaga’s<br />
celebrations are not<br />
as sombre as those<br />
in other cities, the<br />
public still pays its<br />
respects to scenes<br />
of the Passion of<br />
Christ displayed on<br />
fl oats during the<br />
Pomlázkas<br />
PRAGUE<br />
One of the more<br />
unusual Easter<br />
customs takes<br />
place in the Czech<br />
Republic on Easter<br />
Monday. Boys gather<br />
up willow branches<br />
(pomlázkas) and go<br />
from house to house<br />
lightly whipping girls<br />
on their legs. It may<br />
sound barbaric,<br />
but the whipping is<br />
elaborate Easter<br />
parades. As part of<br />
the processions,<br />
candle bearers dress<br />
in white robes and<br />
hoods (capirote)<br />
and large fl oats<br />
(weighing up to fi ve<br />
tonnes) make their<br />
way through the<br />
city, after which a<br />
jubilant fi esta rounds<br />
off the weekend.<br />
malagaturismo.com<br />
meant to be more<br />
a symbolic gesture<br />
than a punishment.<br />
The custom dates<br />
back to pagan times<br />
and is supposed to<br />
chase away illness<br />
and bad spirits, as<br />
well as bestowing<br />
beauty, health and<br />
vivacity. In return,<br />
girls give the boys<br />
beautifully painted<br />
eggs or chocolate.<br />
WORDS AMY DENNIS
THE BUZZ | CRETE<br />
34 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10
NEW<br />
ROUTE<br />
Samaria Gorge<br />
CRETE (CHANIA)<br />
The largest of the<br />
Greek islands,<br />
Crete boasts<br />
striking mountains<br />
– if you’re lucky,<br />
still with a dusting<br />
of snow in April<br />
– olive groves,<br />
pine forests, a<br />
dramatic coastline<br />
and the azure<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Sea. It’s the perfect<br />
destination for<br />
getting away from<br />
it all. Chania, one<br />
of our newest<br />
destinations, on<br />
the west coast<br />
is an ideal base<br />
for exploring the<br />
island’s varied and<br />
beautiful terrain.<br />
The most popular<br />
excursion from<br />
Chania is the<br />
Samaria Gorge,<br />
which cuts its<br />
way through the<br />
Lefka Ori (White<br />
Mountains). At<br />
16km, it’s one<br />
of the longest<br />
gorges in Europe,<br />
with pine- and<br />
wildfl ower-clad<br />
peaks towering<br />
above on both<br />
sides. The park<br />
opens on 1 May.<br />
Flights from<br />
London Gatwick<br />
to Crete (Chania)<br />
start on 23 May.<br />
Claire Martin<br />
THE BUZZ | CRETE<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 35
PHOTO © CORBIS<br />
OUT OF<br />
TOWN<br />
Maeght Foundation<br />
NICE<br />
A picturesque<br />
medieval village 20<br />
minutes from Nice<br />
seems an unlikely<br />
spot for a modernist<br />
masterpiece. But<br />
in the 1960s, Saint<br />
Paul de Vence was<br />
a magnet for the<br />
glitterati, from<br />
artists Joan Miró<br />
and Marc Chagall<br />
to movie stars<br />
Yves Montand and<br />
Roger Moore. Two<br />
landmarks still bear<br />
witness to those<br />
heady times: the<br />
elegant Colombe<br />
d’Or Hotel, and the<br />
Fondation Maeght.<br />
On the outskirts<br />
of town, the<br />
museum was<br />
founded in 1964<br />
by Parisian art<br />
dealers Aimé and<br />
Marguerite Maeght.<br />
Their mission was<br />
to create France’s<br />
fi rst privately<br />
funded, purposebuilt<br />
art space to<br />
showcase the work<br />
of their artists and<br />
friends, including<br />
Miró, Alexander<br />
THE BUZZ | SAINT PAUL DE VENCE<br />
Calder and Alberto<br />
Giacometti. The<br />
Barcelona-born<br />
architect Josep<br />
Lluís Sert designed<br />
a museum that<br />
would complement<br />
the Maeght<br />
collection, while<br />
blending with the<br />
local environment.<br />
The result is an<br />
intimate example<br />
of modernism, an<br />
elegant synergy<br />
between exhibition<br />
spaces, artworks<br />
and a charming<br />
garden setting. The<br />
museum, which<br />
re-opens this month<br />
after a spruce-up,<br />
holds a regular<br />
programme of<br />
exhibitions from the<br />
Maeght collection<br />
as well as work<br />
by contemporary<br />
artists. Regardless<br />
of who is showing,<br />
we recommend<br />
exploring Miró’s<br />
fantastic Labyrinth<br />
and taking a<br />
stroll through the<br />
gardens studded<br />
with sculptures<br />
by Giacometti,<br />
Calder, Chagall and<br />
Georges Braques.<br />
fondation-maeght.<br />
com Rachael Antony<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 37
WEEKENDER | MALAGA<br />
CULTURAL<br />
WEEKEND IN<br />
MALAGA<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
WEEKEND IN<br />
SPLIT<br />
There’s more to Málaga than<br />
its airport – this relaxed Med<br />
city has Moorish architecture,<br />
modern art and gastronomic<br />
gems waiting to be discovered<br />
FRIDAY<br />
Dismissed as the portal to the Costas,<br />
Málaga is Andalucía’s forgotten city<br />
– a surprising cultural destination with<br />
excellent museums, historic ramparts,<br />
exquisite Andalucían houses and an iconic<br />
cathedral. You can explore all the city has to<br />
38 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
offer by foot, so reserve a room at the central<br />
Petit Palace Plaza Hotel (from €101, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com) tucked just off buzzing,<br />
pedestrianised Calle Larios.<br />
Start your break by ascending to Castillo<br />
de Gibralfaro, for magnifi cent views of<br />
Málaga and the golden sands of the Costa<br />
del Sol. Walk around the red-brick ramparts<br />
of this 14th-century Moorish fortress, then<br />
dine at the adjacent Parador de Málaga<br />
Gibralfaro Hotel (tel: +34 952 221 902),<br />
where you can feast on typical Andalucían<br />
cuisine with a refi ned edge – dishes such<br />
as hake with pil pil sauce, mejilla de cerdo<br />
(pork cheeks) and almond ice cream.<br />
Back in the Old Town, visit Málaga’s<br />
resplendent Catedral de la Encarnación.<br />
Unusually, it only has one tower. In 1782,<br />
the head of one of Málaga’s wealthiest<br />
families, Bernardo de Gálvez (founder<br />
of Galveston in Texas) took the money<br />
allocated for the second tower to America<br />
to help fund the War of Independence. The<br />
city couldn’t afford to fi nish the cathedral,<br />
affectionately nicknaming it La Manquita<br />
(the one-armed lady). Inside are 42 ornate<br />
sculptures, and two magnifi cent 18thcentury<br />
organs, each with 4,000 pipes.<br />
Take a siesta back at the hotel before<br />
enjoying a drink in one of Málaga’s narrow,
PHOTOS © BLEDAY ROSA/MUSEO, PICASSO MALAGA<br />
winding streets. Sip on a San Miguel (this is<br />
the beer’s hometown) and nibble some tapas<br />
at La Pajuana (1 Calle Angel). Book a table<br />
at eccentric Vino Mio (11 Calle Álamos, tel:<br />
+34 952 609 093), where unusual art and<br />
outlandish décor adorn the walls. Order<br />
the bolsitas crujientes (king prawns in fi lo<br />
pastry), duck with strawberry and whisky<br />
compôte or, if you dare, crocodile served<br />
with apples and lychees.<br />
SATURDAY<br />
After breakfast, delve into the life of<br />
Málaga’s prodigal son, Pablo Picasso.<br />
The famous artist wanted a foundation<br />
devoted to his work in Málaga, where<br />
he was born – but insisted that certain<br />
conditions be adhered to before a museum<br />
could open. The glorious 16th-century<br />
Palacio de Buenavista was considered a<br />
perfect location for the Museo Picasso (8<br />
Calle Agustín), and the museum opened<br />
in 2003: an event which kick-started<br />
Málaga’s cultural Renaissance. On display<br />
are 155 of Picasso’s paintings, ceramics and<br />
sculptures, donated by his daughter-inlaw<br />
and grandson. The collection includes<br />
pieces from Picasso aged 15, artwork from<br />
his erotic and Cubist periods, and some of<br />
his last creations, made at the age of 91.<br />
WEEKENDER | MALAGA<br />
Next door to the museum is Málaga’s<br />
Alcazaba, an impressive 11th-century<br />
Arabian palace set on a hill. It’s the<br />
best-preserved Moorish fortress in Spain,<br />
and features patios, mosaics and baths.<br />
Just below the Alcazaba lies the Roman<br />
Theatre, discovered in 1951 and dating<br />
back to the 1st century. If you haven’t had<br />
enough Picasso for one day, you can visit his<br />
birthplace (Picasso Foundation; 15 Plaza de<br />
la Merced) and see how young Pablo and his<br />
family lived in the fi rst 10 years of his life.<br />
Refuel at traditional bodega El Pimpi<br />
(62 Calle Granada, tel: +34 952 228 990),<br />
an emblematic dining spot that started<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 39
WEEKENDER | MALAGA<br />
life as a monastery. Pick a table in one of<br />
the warrens of rooms, with plants entwined<br />
around beams, a bright indoor patio, and<br />
Málagueñean azulejos (Arabian-style blue<br />
and white tiles) punctuating the fl oor.<br />
Large wine barrels bear the signatures of<br />
famous visitors, and their photos adorn the<br />
walls – everyone from Malagueño A-lister<br />
Antonio Banderas to Paloma Picasso and<br />
Tony Blair. Tuck into tortilla (Spanish<br />
omelette), salads and ligeritos (sandwiches),<br />
and fi nish off your meal with a glass of<br />
honeyed Málaga wine.<br />
The Museo del Vidrio y Cristal (the glass<br />
and crystal museum; 2 Plazuela Santísimo<br />
Cristo de la Sangre) is a labour of love, run<br />
by Gonzalo Fernandez-Prieto, a passionate<br />
man who has been collecting glass since<br />
the age of nine. Set in a beautifully restored<br />
building, his outstanding personal collection<br />
of glass – dating back 2,700 years – includes<br />
English stained-glass windows, Roman<br />
drinking vessels and medieval pieces.<br />
Saturday is a big night out in Málaga,<br />
and the locals like to start late. Familyrun<br />
and utterly charming Esparteros (4<br />
Calle Espartero) is the place to try tapas.<br />
40 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
Clockwise from right,<br />
Botanical Gardens; El Pimpi;<br />
Catedral de la Encarnación;<br />
Picasso Museum; jamón at<br />
Rescoldo’s; previous page,<br />
Picasso Museum<br />
Order Málaga’s famous fried fi sh – fritura<br />
malagueña – gambas (prawns), aubergine<br />
served with a dark, sticky honey, and paella<br />
for your main, all for just €18 per person.<br />
Afterwards, join the throng of Málagueños<br />
at the recently opened Sala Gold (5 Luis de<br />
Velázquez), one of the best clubs in town,<br />
playing a mix of house, Spanish pop and<br />
dance music.<br />
SUNDAY<br />
Start the day at a leisurely pace and head up<br />
into the hills to see the city’s hidden gem, the<br />
Botanical Gardens. Amalia Heredia and her<br />
husband Jorge Loring created the gardens<br />
in 1857 with seeds brought back from<br />
ships travelling from exotic and far-fl ung<br />
locations. Today, there are 100 different<br />
palm varieties providing dappled shade, and<br />
1,000 tropical and subtropical species. To<br />
get to the gardens, either take the municipal<br />
bus line 61, or take the Málaga Sightseeing<br />
Bus green line from the main bus station.<br />
Before lunch, squeeze in a little more<br />
art at the CAC (Contemporary Art Centre;<br />
Calle de Alemania). Its wide, open space<br />
and central display hall is dedicated to bold,<br />
modern works of art and houses large-scale<br />
exhibitions by esteemed artists. This month<br />
you can see Jack Freak Pictures, one of Brit<br />
duo Gilbert and George’s most ambitious<br />
series of artworks.<br />
Finish off a jam-packed weekend at<br />
Rescoldo’s, just off Calle Larios. The<br />
extensive menu includes jamón (ham), the<br />
Rescoldo kebab with succulent steak on a<br />
skewer, and the grilled tuna fi llet served<br />
with chunks of fried garlic. Claire Martin<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Málaga from 14 destinations.<br />
See our insider guide on page 153.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com<br />
PHOTOS © ALEX MARTIN, PHOTOLIBRARY
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PHOTOS © GETTY<br />
Split is a popular destination<br />
for a relaxing stop on the<br />
Croatian Coast, but it’s also the<br />
perfect starting point for an<br />
action-packed break in the sun<br />
FRIDAY<br />
From the airport, take the 30-minute bus<br />
ride into Split, where you’ll be dropped<br />
off at the palm-lined seafront promenade.<br />
Check in to B&B Hotel Villa Kastel 1700<br />
(from €88, book at hotels.easyJet.com). It’s<br />
in the pedestrian-only Old Town, which<br />
lies within the sturdy Roman walls of<br />
Diocletian’s Palace, dating from 295 AD<br />
and today a UNESCO World Heritage Site.<br />
Begin your stay with a late-afternoon<br />
swim at Bac˘vice Bay, just a 10-minute<br />
walk east of the centre. There’s a small<br />
sand-and-pebble beach and a bathing area<br />
with easy access to the water, plus showers.<br />
Join locals in a round of picigin, a bizarre<br />
ball game unique to Split. Five or six<br />
players stand in a circle in knee-high water<br />
and strike a ball from one to another, in<br />
random order. The aim of the game is not<br />
to catch the ball, but to keep it from falling<br />
into the sea.<br />
WEEKENDER | SPLIT<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
WEEKEND IN<br />
SPLIT<br />
For dinner, try Restoran Jugo (12<br />
Tonciceva, tel: +385 (0)21 398 900) above<br />
the ACI Marina, and feast on risot sa<br />
skampima (shrimp risotto) and a bottle of<br />
local vugava white wine. Afterwards you<br />
might like a nightcap at Ghetto Club (10<br />
Dosud), an arty bar with outdoor seating<br />
in a lovely candlelit courtyard garden, just<br />
a stone’s throw from your hotel.<br />
SATURDAY<br />
After breakfast, pack a swimming<br />
costume, a towel, and an extra set of dry<br />
clothes into a rucksack and set off for Omi˘s<br />
(25 km southeast of Split) at the mouth<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 43
WEEKENDER | SPLIT<br />
of the River Cetina. Cutting a high-sided<br />
canyon between two mountains and<br />
fl owing over a series of light-to-moderate<br />
rapids, the Cetina is a popular venue for<br />
rafting, which can be arranged through<br />
Adventure Dalmatia (tel: +385 (0)21 540<br />
642, adventuredalmatia.com). Upon<br />
arrival you’ll be given an oar, lifejacket<br />
and helmet, and allocated a raft carrying<br />
up to eight persons under the auspices of<br />
an experienced guide. The three-hour trip<br />
runs twice a day at 9am and 2pm and costs<br />
HRK200 (€27). End your trip with lunch<br />
at Radmanove Mlinice (tel: +385 (0)21 862<br />
073), a 19th-century watermill serving<br />
fresh trout and spit-roast lamb at wooden<br />
tables under the trees by the river.<br />
If you’re still up for a challenge, return<br />
to Omi˘s on the coast and spend the<br />
remainder of the afternoon windsurfi ng<br />
with Active Holidays (tel: +385 (0)21 861<br />
829, activeholidays-croatia.com). Or, if<br />
you feel like chilling out with a few hours of<br />
peaceful swimming and sunbathing, head<br />
for Ruskamen (7km southeast of Omi˘s),<br />
where you’ll fi nd a lovely pebble beach<br />
backed by pines, with a section for nudists.<br />
44 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
In the early evening, transfer to the<br />
pretty coastal village of Bas˘ka Voda (33 km<br />
southeast of Omi˘s), where you can dine at<br />
the highly regarded Restaurant King (tel:<br />
+385 (0)21 620 640) indulging in fresh fi sh<br />
and another bottle of Dalmatian wine.<br />
SUNDAY<br />
Rise bright and early and head down<br />
the coast to Makarska, 9km southeast of<br />
Bas˘ka Voda. This cheerful seaside resort is<br />
backed by the awe-inspiring rocky heights<br />
of Biokovo Mountain. Biokovo Active<br />
Holidays (tel: +385 (0)21 679 655, biokovo.<br />
net) arrange hiking trips for HRK310 (€42)<br />
up the mountain’s sunny seaward slopes.<br />
Clockwise from left,<br />
Diocletian’s Palace; Makarska<br />
seaside resort; windsurfi ng<br />
off Omiš Beach; hiking up<br />
Biokovo Mountain; rafting<br />
on the River Cetina; previous<br />
page, Omiš Beach<br />
As you make the four-hour ascent to Vosac<br />
(1,422m), the karst landscape becomes<br />
increasingly barren, with bare limestone<br />
rocks and scanty pastures supporting<br />
chamois goats and moufl on sheep. From<br />
Vosac, you’ll be transported to the highest<br />
peak, Sveti Jure (1,760m), where you’ll<br />
have a picnic lunch with panoramic views<br />
– on a clear day it’s possible to see across<br />
the Adriatic Sea to Italy, and inland to the<br />
mountains of Bosnia Herzegovina.<br />
Travel back up the coast to Split. Here,<br />
head for Fife (11 Trumbiceva Obala, tel:<br />
+385 (0)21 345 223) and join an eclectic<br />
mix of local fi shermen and visitors for a<br />
drink or supper overlooking Matejuska<br />
Harbour. It’s down-to-earth and serves<br />
hearty Dalmatian favourites such as<br />
pas˘ticada s njokima (beef stewed in sweet<br />
wine, with gnocchi), which goes down a<br />
treat with the red house wine, plavac. Just<br />
don’t miss the plane home! Jane Foster<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Split from 10 destinations.<br />
See our insider guide on page 170.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com<br />
PHOTOS © PHOTOLIBRARY
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THE KINGDOM WITHIN a kingdom, the<br />
Isle of Man is truly one of the UK’s bestkept<br />
secrets. Under an hour’s fl ight from<br />
most British airports – and particularly<br />
accessible from the northwest, thanks to<br />
a new easyJet fl ight from Liverpool – the<br />
self-governing Island is a natural holiday<br />
destination for anyone craving serenity and<br />
communion with nature.<br />
From wildlife to watersports, there is so<br />
much to see and do on the Isle of Man that<br />
it’s hard to know where to start. With a<br />
100-mile coastline, the Island is deceptively<br />
large, and sea-related activities often take<br />
centre stage. Sailing, diving, fi shing and<br />
sea-kayaking all are popular pastimes;<br />
and the opportunity to observe bottle<br />
nose dolphins, killer whales and basking<br />
sharks (chiefl y between the months of June<br />
and September) is a major lure for marine<br />
life enthusiasts.<br />
For those more comfortable on terra<br />
fi rma, quad-biking, bird-watching, golf<br />
and motor racing are just a few of the ‘dry’<br />
pursuits on offer. For golfers, there are nine<br />
courses spread across the Island, eight of<br />
them being 18-hole courses and none more<br />
than 45 minutes from the others by car. For<br />
those interested in seeing the Isle of Man’s<br />
beauty up close with a lovely walk or bike<br />
ride, there are miles and miles of coastal<br />
and inland paths there to be enjoyed. And<br />
as for motor racing, the world-famous TT<br />
Races, held annually in May and June,<br />
bring a real buzz to the Island, with some<br />
40,000 visitors and 12,000 motorcycles<br />
from 30 countries attending the event.<br />
NO TRIP TO the Isle of Man is complete<br />
without sampling some of the delicious<br />
local food and drink. There are awardwinning<br />
rich, creamy local cheeses, luxury<br />
JEWEL OF<br />
THE IRISH SEA<br />
The Isle of Man has much<br />
to offer visitors, particularly in the<br />
spring and summer months<br />
dairy ice cream and, naturally, many<br />
delicacies from the sea, such as tasty<br />
smoked kippers and Queenies – small<br />
sweet queen scallops.<br />
Also not to be missed is the famous<br />
and tender Manx Loaghtan lamb, which<br />
comes from the Island’s unique breed of<br />
four-horned sheep. To wash all this down,<br />
there is a fantastic selection of local beers<br />
and spirits – which are an important aspect<br />
of the social experience on the Island. The<br />
Manx Spirit is a form of clear whisky that’s<br />
popular with many, while the Isle of Man’s<br />
two main breweries, Bushy’s and Okells,<br />
produce several excellent beers, including<br />
one brewed specially for the TT Races.<br />
Another exciting aspect of visiting<br />
the Island is getting to understand its<br />
distinctive Manx heritage embodied by the<br />
famous tailless Manx cats – who, legend<br />
has it, were the last to board Noah’s ark and<br />
lost their tails as the door slammed shut.<br />
The Manx national emblem dates back to<br />
the 13th century, and Manx heritage can<br />
be glimpsed through iconic sites like the<br />
world’s largest working water wheel and the<br />
House of Manannan. Or why not follow<br />
the Story of Mann trail, which will lead<br />
you around 13 of the Island’s iconic<br />
heritage sites?<br />
The Isle of Man has so much to offer<br />
that it’s no wonder A-list celebrities – like<br />
Johnny Depp, John Malkovich, Penelope<br />
Cruz and Renee Zellweger – have all been<br />
spotted visiting the Island. And with an<br />
extensive range of quality accommodation<br />
to suit every budget – from fi ne hotels to<br />
self-catering properties – there really is<br />
something for everyone here.<br />
For more information about planning<br />
a trip to the Isle of Man call the<br />
Welcome Centre, tel: +44 (0)1624<br />
686 801, or visit visitisleofman.com
Clockwise from far left, seals are regularly spotted in the<br />
shores surrounding the Isle of Man; Bradda Head from<br />
Port Erin Beach; pony trekking across the beautiful Manx<br />
countryside; a typical seaside scene – Punch and Judy<br />
on the beach at Peel; the Steam Railway which connects<br />
Douglas and the south of the island<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
★ ISLE OF MAN<br />
EVENTS <strong>2010</strong><br />
★ TT Festival<br />
29th May–11th June<br />
Motor bike enthusiasts from all over the<br />
world descend for two weeks of races.<br />
★ Isle of Man Walking Festival<br />
13th–18th June<br />
Guided walks that are perfect for exploring<br />
the amazing history of the island.<br />
★ Isle of Man Adventure Week<br />
19th–27th June<br />
Dinghy sailing, rock climbing, expedition<br />
camping, paragliding, diving and<br />
snorkelling.<br />
★ IOM Queenie Festival<br />
9th–11th July<br />
A marine food festival celebrating the local<br />
delicacy of the Manx Queen Scallop.<br />
★ Crown Green Bowls Festival<br />
6th–10th September<br />
Recognised as the best festival in the<br />
crown green bowling calendar.
WORK AND PLAY<br />
BUSINESS<br />
ODYSSEY<br />
ILLUSTRATIONS ADRIAN VALENCIA<br />
Next time you have business meetings abroad, combine them with a mini<br />
break with your partner, and make the most of our connecting fl ights between<br />
cities. Rather than returning home, start with one meeting, have the weekend<br />
in another destination and then fl y on to your fi nal stop feeling refreshed<br />
48 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10
MILAN<br />
Impress your colleagues or clients<br />
with a lunchtime meeting at Home,<br />
from €45 per person<br />
Discuss the fi ner points of a tricky<br />
deal over delicious dishes created with<br />
organic ingredients from the Slow Food<br />
Foundation. 12 Via Tortona, tel: +39 02<br />
835 6706<br />
Hotel Stay at the Meliá Milano from €159.<br />
Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Drink Bar Straf is ultra-sleek with a list<br />
of stylish cocktails to choose from. Happy<br />
hour is from 6–9pm. 3 Via San Raffaele<br />
MILAN | PORTO | LYON | EDINBURGH<br />
Culture Getting tickets to the opera at<br />
La Scala can be a tricky business, but<br />
not if you’ve got the right contacts or you<br />
plan ahead. Watch Alban Berg’s Lulu this<br />
month, in a space known for its worldclass<br />
acoustics. 2 Via Filodrammatici,<br />
teatroallascala.org<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 49
MILAN | PORTO | LYON | EDINBURGH<br />
PORTO<br />
Spend a leisurely afternoon at the<br />
Serralves Museum park for €5<br />
The Serralves Foundation boasts a<br />
contemporary art museum, an excellent<br />
restaurant, and a spacious, landscaped<br />
park with beautiful gardens. This is the<br />
50 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
perfect place to take some time out and<br />
relax. 210 Rua Dom João de Castro<br />
Route We fl y from Milan Malpensa to<br />
Porto once on Monday, Wednesday, Friday,<br />
Saturday and Sunday.<br />
Hotel Stay at the Eurostars das Artes from<br />
€58. Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Dinner Book a table at the hip Don Tonho<br />
and feast on gourmet cuisine while sitting<br />
shoulder to shoulder with celebs. 13–15<br />
Cais da Ribeira, tel: +351 22 200 4307<br />
Shop MUUDA is a trendy concept store<br />
with fashion, art and home accessories by<br />
Portuguese designers. 294 Rua do Rosário
LYON<br />
Sip on a cocktail at Le Boudoir,<br />
Lyon’s trendiest bar<br />
This chic cocktail bar is the perfect spot<br />
to see and be seen. Jazz lovers take note:<br />
live sultry jazz is played on Wednesday<br />
evenings. 13 Place Jules Ferry<br />
Route We fl y from Porto to Lyon once<br />
on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday<br />
and Sunday.<br />
Hotel Stay at the Boscolo Grand Hotel<br />
from €120. Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Chocolate Treat yourself to some<br />
utterly indulgent chocolates at Lyon’s<br />
MILAN | PORTO | LYON | EDINBURGH<br />
fi nest chocolatier, Bernachon. Try the<br />
connoisseur’s choice – Le Palet d’Or.<br />
42 Cours Franklin Roosevelt<br />
Bike For a fun way to explore the city, pick<br />
up a bike at one of the 350 Vélo’v stands<br />
throughout the city. The fi rst 30 minutes is<br />
free. velov.grandlyon.com<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 51
MILAN | PORTO | LYON | EDINBURGH<br />
EDINBURGH<br />
Play golf at Gullane’s championship<br />
course from £65 (€71) per person<br />
The picturesque Gullane Golf Course,<br />
just 40 minutes’ drive from Edinburgh,<br />
is reputed to be the best course in East<br />
Lothian. Instead of scheduling those<br />
52 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
business meetings in an offi ce, take your<br />
clients for a round of golf to clinch that<br />
deal. gullanegolfclub.com<br />
Route We fl y from Lyon to Edinburgh<br />
once on Wednesday and twice on Saturday,<br />
and from Edinburgh to Milan Malpensa<br />
once a day.<br />
MARTIN<br />
CLAIRE WORDS |<br />
Hotel Stay at the Caledonian Hilton from VALENCIA/EASTWING.CO.UK<br />
€177. Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Shop Look sharp in a bespoke suit from ADRIAN ©<br />
Peter Johnston – one of the city’s most<br />
exclusive tailors. 40 Queen Street<br />
Drink Sip on a gin and tonic at the awardwinning<br />
56 North. 2 West Crosscauseway ILLUSTRATIONS
DINE AROUND<br />
THE WORLD<br />
IN EIGHT<br />
DAYS<br />
Soho Square brings<br />
a planet of mouthwatering<br />
food to Sharm El Sheikh<br />
AT SOHO SQUARE you can go on a<br />
round-the-world culinary tour and enjoy a<br />
different cuisine every night of the week.<br />
SOHO Square Sharm El Sheikh, Egypt<br />
tel: +20 (0) 69 360 2500,<br />
tel: +20 (0) 10 160 9544, soho-sharm.com<br />
DAY 3 Just over the border in China,<br />
chef Chan brings his vast experience of<br />
Cantonese cuisine to the Zen Restaurant. As<br />
is the case with all the restaurants at Soho<br />
Square, the ingredients are the best available<br />
– selected from suppliers worldwide.<br />
DAY 6 For a piece of Paris in the Sinai<br />
peninsula, visit L’Entrecote Steak House, a<br />
French-style restaurant offering the fi nest<br />
cuts of meat from the UK, Ireland, Australia<br />
and Japan. For a special occasion, the wagyu<br />
steak is the most tender dish on the menu.<br />
DAY 1 Start your culinary world tour in Asia<br />
with an evening at Mai Thai. With a skilled<br />
chef from Thailand running the show, the<br />
newest restaurant at Soho Square offers<br />
authentic Southeast Asian cuisine in a chic,<br />
comfortable environment.<br />
DAY 4 Next door at Bombay, chef Tilakraj<br />
demonstrates his mastery of northern Indian<br />
cuisine. With a clay tandoor oven and spices<br />
imported from India at his disposal, Tilakraj<br />
cooks Egypt’s best karachi gosht and<br />
tandoori chicken.<br />
DAY 7 Next door to L’Entrecote, you can<br />
enjoy the theatrical excitement of the<br />
teppanyaki experience. With clattering<br />
knives, the expert chefs prepare a wide range<br />
of meat and seafood to perfection right in<br />
front of your eyes.<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
DAY 2 The following evening, make the short<br />
hop to Japan with a trip to the Sushi Bar.<br />
Sharm El Sheikh’s only conveyor-belt sushi<br />
bar boasts an ever-changing selection of fresh<br />
sushi, nigiri and sashimi. Just grab whatever<br />
takes your fancy as the plates pass you by.<br />
DAY 5 As you head west, you’ll want to stop<br />
over in the Middle East, and Soho Square’s<br />
Saffron restaurant offers dishes from Syria,<br />
Lebanon, Morocco, the Gulf, and of course,<br />
Egypt. Go easy on the mezze, dips and bread<br />
– the kebabs are fantastic.<br />
DAY 8 Caligula in the neighbouring Savoy<br />
Hotel offers something completely different<br />
– Hot Rock dining. Here, you cook your own<br />
meat on a piece of heated volcanic rock,<br />
ensuring your beef, veal, lamb, fi sh or seafood<br />
is served piping hot and super-fresh.
THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT<br />
VALENCIA’S ICONIC CITY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES<br />
SETS THE SCENE FOR SPRING’S NEUTRAL PALETTE,<br />
CLEAN LINES AND SPORTY STYLES<br />
PHILIP VOLKERS
XXX | XXX<br />
LOCATION<br />
City of Arts<br />
and Sciences<br />
SHE WEARS<br />
Dress (£125) from<br />
Banana Republic;<br />
shoes (£85)<br />
from Dune<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 55
LOCATION<br />
Hemisphèric, City of<br />
Arts and Sciences<br />
THIS PAGE<br />
Nylon jacket (£33)<br />
and tri-blend scarf (£12),<br />
both from American<br />
Apparel; chinos (£65)<br />
from Dockers; belt (£3)<br />
from H&M<br />
OPPOSITE<br />
Cutout mini dress (£24)<br />
and knee-high unisex<br />
socks (£8), both from<br />
American Apparel;<br />
shoes (£60) from Faith;<br />
cuff (£3) from H&M
LOCATION<br />
Science Museum<br />
entrance (right); steps to<br />
the Umbracle (opposite),<br />
City of Arts and Sciences<br />
THIS PAGE<br />
Cotton spandex bodysuit<br />
(£22) from American<br />
Apparel; button leggings<br />
(£130) from Paul & Joe<br />
Sister; shoes (£45)<br />
from Dune<br />
OPPOSITE<br />
Zip-detail cotton parka<br />
(£299) from Jaeger; polo<br />
shirt (£92) from John<br />
Smedley; cut-off shorts<br />
(£28) and canvas shoes<br />
(£35), both from<br />
Topman; knee-high<br />
unisex socks (£8) from<br />
American Apparel
LOCATION<br />
Science Museum, City<br />
of Arts and Sciences<br />
(here); Palau de les Arts<br />
Reina Sofía (opposite)<br />
THIS PAGE<br />
SHE WEARS<br />
Dress (£170) from Paul<br />
& Joe; shoes (£60) from<br />
Faith; cuff (stylist’s own)<br />
HE WEARS<br />
Top (£270) from Paul<br />
& Joe; chinos (£70) from<br />
Tommy Hilfi ger; canvas<br />
shoes (£35) from Topman<br />
OPPOSITE<br />
Jersey and linen knitback<br />
polo top (£175)<br />
from 3.1 Phillip Lim and<br />
slim-fi t jeans (£185)<br />
from Marc by Marc<br />
Jacobs, both available<br />
at my-wardrobe.com<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Philip Volkers<br />
STYLING<br />
Wendy Tee<br />
HAIR & MAKE-UP<br />
Victoria Clarke<br />
ART DIRECTION<br />
Neil Smith<br />
PRODUCTION<br />
Jeroen Bergmans<br />
MODELS<br />
Etienne Samuel<br />
premiermodel<br />
management.com<br />
Tonia Molyavko<br />
fmmodelagency.com<br />
CONTACTS<br />
americanapparel.co.uk<br />
bananarepublic.gap.eu<br />
dockers.com<br />
dune.co.uk<br />
faith.co.uk<br />
hm.com<br />
jaeger.co.uk<br />
johnsmedley.com<br />
my-wardrobe.com<br />
paulandjoe.com<br />
tommyhilfi ger.co.uk<br />
topman.com<br />
SPECIAL THANKS<br />
Lucía Martínez Dalmau<br />
Cristina Carrera Negro<br />
Gatwick Express<br />
£1 = €1.10
A QUICK<br />
GUIDE TO<br />
VALENCIA<br />
THE<br />
MAGNIFICENT<br />
GOTHIC<br />
cathedral and the lavish mercantile<br />
hall La Lonja de la Seda in<br />
Valencia’s Old Town are testament<br />
to its heyday in the 15th century<br />
when it was one of Europe’s major<br />
cultural and economic centres.<br />
In 1957, disaster struck when<br />
the River Túria burst its banks,<br />
almost destroying the city’s<br />
grand, architectural heritage.<br />
When the huge restoration project<br />
got under way, the local council<br />
came up with an ingenious plan<br />
to prevent more fl ooding, which<br />
ultimately led to Valencia’s second<br />
wave of vernacular architecture<br />
– large-scale futuristic designs.<br />
The river was diverted and its<br />
dried-out riverbed converted into<br />
Jardines del Túria, a lush ribbon<br />
of parkland designed by several<br />
landscape architects into zones<br />
dedicated to football, tennis,<br />
athletics and volleyball. The jewel<br />
in the crown of this radical, urban<br />
planning project was offered to<br />
Valencia’s most high-profi le native,<br />
the internationally acclaimed<br />
architect Santiago Calatrava.<br />
At the mouth of the river he has<br />
created La Ciudad de las Artes<br />
y las Ciencias (the City of Arts<br />
and Sciences, cac.es), a cluster<br />
of futuristic buildings offering<br />
attractions and educational<br />
entertainment for all the family.<br />
L’Oceanogràfi c is the largest<br />
aquarium in Europe with 500<br />
species of sharks, seals, stingrays<br />
and water birds, crowned by two<br />
Jetsons-style buildings resembling<br />
giant waterlilies. The Príncipe<br />
Felipe Science Museum forms the<br />
spine of the complex and hosts<br />
interactive and tactile exhibitions<br />
designed for children. Its<br />
extraordinary façade is inspired by<br />
the skeletons of dinosaurs and at<br />
the back, a cascade of glass mimics<br />
a waterfall. Opposite is l’Umbracle,<br />
a landscaped promenade and<br />
sculpture park enclosed by a cagelike<br />
roof which hosts parties in the<br />
summer months (umbracleterraza.<br />
com). The Hemisfèric building<br />
seems to fl oat in the centre of a<br />
7,300m 2 ornamental pool and at<br />
night the refl ection of its ovoid<br />
roof and the sphere that houses its<br />
IMAX cinema and planetarium<br />
resemble a giant eye. The Palau de<br />
les Arts Reina Sofía opera house<br />
is the most iconic structure of all,<br />
presiding over its neighbours like<br />
an aerodynamic helmet from cult<br />
virtual-reality fi lm Tron.<br />
comunitatvalenciana.com<br />
BARCELO VALENCIA<br />
Located just across the road<br />
from La Ciudad de las Artes y las<br />
Ciencias, the four-star Barceló<br />
Valencia is the perfect base for<br />
exploring this extraordinary<br />
complex. Some of the 187 rooms<br />
and the rooftop terrace (a popular<br />
venue for wedding receptions and<br />
parties) look straight out onto<br />
the spectacular opera house, and<br />
sleek interiors reference Calatrava’s<br />
space-aged hub. Make the most of<br />
the excellent buffet breakfast and<br />
feast on local and Mediterranean<br />
dishes in El Senyoret restaurant or<br />
El Gotet lobby bar. Then work off<br />
those calories on the treadmills in<br />
the fi tness room while lapping up<br />
the amazing views, followed by a<br />
relaxing massage, sauna or soak<br />
in the Jacuzzi. Doubles from €96,<br />
book at hotels.easyJet.com JB<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 61
SPRING<br />
HAS SPRUNG<br />
WORDS ALEX MITCHELL<br />
MARVEL AT THE LABURNUM BLOSSOMS<br />
AT BODNANT, THE RIOT OF<br />
COLOUR AT KEUKENHOF AND OUR OTHER<br />
FAVOURITE FLORAL FIESTAS
SPRING GARDENS | TOP TEN<br />
IT’S SPRING<br />
AND FROM<br />
Milan to<br />
Manchester, Europe is changing colour,<br />
shedding its washed-out browns and<br />
greens for reds, yellows and creamy<br />
whites. Tulips burst into life, magnolias<br />
shamelessly thrust their cup-like blooms to<br />
the sky and laburnum blossoms drip like<br />
melting butter. Spring is the perfect time<br />
for some post-winter colour therapy.<br />
From medieval walled pleasure gardens<br />
to rolling estates and municipal parks, the<br />
continent’s gardens have woken up. But<br />
how do you pick your way through the<br />
dizzying lists of famous gardens and, just<br />
as importantly, how do you know when<br />
is the best time to visit? No one wants to<br />
turn up only to fi nd the wisteria is past its<br />
peak, the roses are being deadheaded and<br />
the bulbs are nothing more than limp leaves<br />
fl opping on the grass.<br />
Our insider’s guide to the most<br />
spectacular spring gardens in Europe<br />
and north Africa will ensure you get your<br />
timing just right. Then all that’s left is to<br />
discover for yourself these breathtaking<br />
gardens, taking time to sit back and smell<br />
the fl owers.<br />
HIMALAYAS WITHOUT<br />
TRAVEL JABS<br />
BODNANT GARDEN, WALES<br />
» Fly to Liverpool<br />
» Perfect for rugged outdoor types<br />
“Have you ever been to the Himalayas?”<br />
the late British industrialist Lord<br />
Aberconway was once asked. “No,” he<br />
replied, glancing out of the window at<br />
his 30 hectares of soaring conifers and<br />
gigantic rhododendrons. “There has never<br />
seemed much point.” With stunning views<br />
of Snowdon above a hillside bursting<br />
with magnolia, azalea and rhododendron<br />
blossoms, this Welsh wonderland is about<br />
epic landscapes, tinkling brooks and<br />
enchanting walks in the dell. You half expect<br />
Frodo Baggins to appear round the corner.<br />
Visit in March and April to see<br />
magnolias, camellias and spring bulbs.<br />
From early April to the middle of May the<br />
rhododendrons are magnifi cent, while<br />
late May is showtime for the azaleas. But<br />
perhaps the most stunning sight of all is in<br />
early June, when you can wander through<br />
a 55m-long tunnel dripping with golden<br />
laburnum blossoms. bodnantgarden.co.uk<br />
Stay at Craig-Ard Hotel, doubles from €85.<br />
Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
64 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10
Here, Monet created<br />
Giverny’s Japanese<br />
Water Garden as the<br />
ultimate inspiration<br />
for his painting; right,<br />
Jacques Majorelle’s<br />
Marrakech garden;<br />
previous spread,<br />
Bodnant Garden, Wales<br />
LILY PADS AND<br />
SKETCHPADS<br />
GIVERNY, FRANCE<br />
» Fly to Paris Charles de Gaulle<br />
» Perfect for art lovers<br />
When Monet sat painting his now<br />
legendary lily pond, he didn’t put in the<br />
gardeners he employed to scoop algae from<br />
the water, pick up fl oating willow branches<br />
and wipe the lily pads clean every day. Nor<br />
did he include the roadworkers he paid to<br />
tar the road next door so dust from passing<br />
traffi c wouldn’t spoil the refl ection in the<br />
deep, blue water. Getting his Japanese<br />
water garden to look this good didn’t come<br />
without effort.<br />
“Apart from painting and gardening,<br />
I’m not good at anything,” Monet was<br />
fond of saying. They couldn’t have been<br />
more compatible passions. He created this<br />
garden in 1883 and recreated it again and<br />
again on canvases right up to his death<br />
in 1926. No wonder visitors coming to<br />
Giverny feel a real sense of déjà vu. And yet,<br />
somehow, it lives up to all expectations.<br />
The best time to visit is in May, when<br />
the fl ower garden just outside the house is a<br />
riot of irises, poppies, wallfl owers, peonies<br />
and roses and the Japanese bridge across<br />
the pond is draped in mauve and white<br />
wisteria, a vine planted by Monet himself.<br />
giverny.org<br />
Stay at Domaine de la Corniche, doubles<br />
from €70. Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
A BOLD, BLUE<br />
DESERT BOLTHOLE<br />
JARDIN MAJORELLE,<br />
MOROCCO<br />
» Fly to Marrakech<br />
» Perfect for people needing a bit<br />
of colour in their lives<br />
Morocco is a stone’s throw from Europe,<br />
making it easily accessible for those<br />
wanting a refreshing spring break in an<br />
exotic location. In the tropical atmosphere<br />
of Marrakech, French artist Jacques<br />
Majorelle splashed a vibrant palette<br />
over his garden, painting its walls a rich,<br />
deep blue inspired by local tiles. One of<br />
those bohemian Europeans attracted<br />
to the sexually liberated atmosphere of<br />
1920s Morocco, Majorelle stuffed the<br />
gardens with cacti, succulents and over<br />
400 varieties of palm, all of which still<br />
dominate the space. When he died in 1962,<br />
the place went wild, but was saved almost<br />
20 years later when bought and restored<br />
by the French fashion designer Yves Saint<br />
SPRING GARDENS | TOP TEN<br />
JACQUES<br />
MAJORELLE<br />
SPLASHED<br />
A VIBRANT<br />
PALETTE OVER<br />
HIS GARDEN<br />
Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé.<br />
It’s the antithesis of the naturalistic<br />
English style, an unashamedly fl ashy<br />
setting for showcasing cacti and exotic<br />
palms against bright yellow window<br />
frames, apple-green doors and red paths.<br />
But it’s the cobalt blue of the walls and<br />
fountains that really dominates, perfectly<br />
offsetting the shady foliage and lily pond.<br />
Go on a hot spring day when you can<br />
wander around the shady courtyard to the<br />
sound of tinkling fountains.<br />
jardinmajorelle.com<br />
Stay at Mont Gueliz Hotel, doubles from<br />
€68. Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 65
SPRING GARDENS | TOP TEN<br />
THE TIGHTLY<br />
CLIPPED<br />
YEW HEDGES<br />
SYMBOLISE THE<br />
TRIUMPH OF<br />
CIVILISATION<br />
TULIP FEVER<br />
KEUKENHOF, NETHERLANDS<br />
» Fly to Amsterdam<br />
» Perfect for a family day out<br />
Ever wondered what St Basil’s Cathedral<br />
in Moscow’s Red Square would look like as<br />
a fl ower display? Go no further than Lisse,<br />
half an hour from Amsterdam, where the<br />
iconic building has been recreated using<br />
65,000 bulbs in response to this year’s<br />
Russian theme at the annual Keukenhof<br />
bulb bonanza.<br />
Even when it’s not undertaking fl oral<br />
feats of engineering, this 30-hectare park<br />
is pretty spectacular. Bursting with seven<br />
million bulbs, it’s planting as painting.<br />
66 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
Here, the yew parterre<br />
at Villa Lante, an Italian<br />
Renaissance garden;<br />
left, at Keukenhof, bulbs<br />
paint the landscape<br />
Every spring, visitors pile in – 43 million<br />
since the park opened in 1949 – to ooh<br />
and aah at the crazy numbers of tulips<br />
and daffodils and the blue stream of grape<br />
hyacinths coursing down to the lake.<br />
Visit from March to May, with the<br />
best time being the end of April to the<br />
beginning of May. Spend an hour or so at<br />
the park and then hire a bike and picnic on<br />
bread, cheese and Amstel beer by the sides<br />
of the bulb fi elds around Keukenhof. But<br />
don’t get too sentimental about the fl owers<br />
– it’s their bulbs that are most prized, so<br />
once they’ve fl owered for a week, a big<br />
machine crawls across the fi elds munching<br />
off the fl owers in order to get the bulbs<br />
ready for sale. keukenhof.nl<br />
Stay at Estherea, deluxe room for two<br />
adults and a child from €220. Book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
ROMANCE FOR<br />
WATER LOVERS<br />
VILLA LANTE, ITALY<br />
» Fly to Rome<br />
» Perfect for couples<br />
Algae-shouldered sea gods lounge each<br />
side of a waterfall, Pegasus spouts nobly<br />
in a serene pool and water trickles down<br />
stone steps that wend their way up and<br />
down the hillside. Turn up to this garden<br />
ALL PHOTOS © PHOTOLIBRARY, 4CORNERS
thirsty and you may soon regret it. But<br />
come looking for romance and this shady,<br />
meditative hillside idyll has all you could<br />
ever wish for.<br />
Probably the best-preserved garden of<br />
the Italian Renaissance, Villa Lante is all<br />
about water, gushing from the mouths of<br />
beasts, between urns and even through<br />
the centre of a giant stone table where<br />
cardinals apparently used to cool their<br />
wine. Created in the 1560s, the design is all<br />
very symbolic, with a climbing succession<br />
of spectacular fountains and sculptures<br />
representing man’s journey from the<br />
wilderness to civilisation. Rationalism,<br />
represented by the stone, is contrasted with<br />
the rough, wild nature of the water and it<br />
all ends in a clipped yew parterre at the<br />
bottom – the triumph of civilisation. You<br />
don’t have to be literate in Rennaissance<br />
symbolism to enjoy some time here on a<br />
hot afternoon, hearing the trickle of water<br />
and resting in the shade. infoviterbo.<br />
it/villa_lante_bagnaia_eng.htm<br />
Stay at B&B dei Papi Charme &<br />
Design, doubles from €110. Book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
All these destinations from many<br />
cities. Our insider guides start on<br />
page 105. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
SPRING GARDENS | TOP TEN<br />
BEST OF<br />
THE REST<br />
CHATEAU DE VILLANDRY, FRANCE<br />
PARIS ORLY<br />
Anyone who didn’t think a cabbage could<br />
be beautiful, can’t have been to this<br />
chateau near Tours (pictured), which is<br />
known for its vegetable displays – perfect<br />
inspiration for allotment holders.<br />
chateauvillandry.com<br />
PATIOS OF CORDOBA, SPAIN<br />
MALAGA<br />
During the May festival, the streets<br />
of Córdoba are bejewelled as potted<br />
geraniums are elevated to an artform.<br />
patiosdecordoba.net<br />
SISSINGHURST, UK<br />
GATWICK<br />
Stroll through spring bulbs down the lime<br />
walk in April and drink in the climbing<br />
roses in Vita Sackville-West’s Kentish<br />
creation from May to June.<br />
nationaltrust.org.uk/sissinghurst<br />
ISOLA BELLA, ITALY<br />
MILAN<br />
A ship of fl owers sets sail in Lake<br />
Maggiore – this colourful, sophisticated<br />
island being particularly lovely and<br />
dramatic in spring when its camellias,<br />
azaleas and rhododendrons are in full<br />
blossom. lagomaggiore.net<br />
LEVENS HALL, CUMBRIA<br />
MANCHESTER<br />
Fans of Alice in Wonderland will love<br />
Levens Hall, which boasts the fi nest<br />
topiary garden in the world, a fantastical<br />
place where yew and box is coaxed into<br />
brave bulges and beasts. levenshall.co.uk<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 67
SWISS<br />
ROLL<br />
WITH<br />
JAMMIN<br />
YOU MIGHT THINK<br />
SWISS MUSIC IS ALL<br />
ABOUT THE YODELLING,<br />
BUT VISIT ZURICH<br />
AND YOU’LL<br />
DISCOVER REGGAE<br />
BEATS ECHOING<br />
ACROSS THE SWISS ALPS<br />
WORDS<br />
CELESTE NEILL DUVOISIN<br />
PHOTOS<br />
ELISABETH REAL
SWISS REGGAE | ZURICH<br />
70 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
MOST PEOPLE<br />
ASSOCIATE<br />
REGGAE MUSIC<br />
with Bob Marley and a Jamaican tropical<br />
idyll of palm trees and sandy beaches.<br />
While a reggae tune occasionally storms<br />
the European music charts – usually in<br />
summer when we’re dreaming of hot<br />
weather and holidays (think the annoyingly<br />
catchy Who Let the Dogs Out?) – the genre<br />
is not considered mainstream outside of<br />
the West Indies. And yet, reggae has lately<br />
gained a strong following in the cool climes<br />
of Switzerland. Not imported reggae, but a<br />
homegrown version that is fast becoming<br />
the biggest sound on Swiss dancefl oors.<br />
Reggae took off in Jamaica in the 1970s<br />
with such legends as Bob Marley and Lee<br />
“Scratch” Perry. An Afrocentric form of<br />
Clockwise from here,<br />
Jaba; a reggae fan at<br />
the All Killer No Filler<br />
club night; Junior<br />
Tshaka, winner of last<br />
year’s European Reggae<br />
Contest; Phenomden<br />
and the Scrucialists<br />
music, it became the voice of the struggling<br />
lower classes at a time of political and<br />
economic strife, when Jamaica was<br />
attempting to stand on its own feet after<br />
gaining independence from the UK in<br />
the late 50s. So what relevance does this<br />
have to Switzerland, an almost entirely<br />
white society and one of the world’s<br />
wealthiest countries?<br />
FINDING COMMON GROUND between a<br />
country famous for welcoming wealthy tax<br />
exiles and a genre synonymous with the<br />
poor and dispossessed of the Caribbean<br />
isn’t such a stretch, says Swiss reggae star<br />
Junior Tshaka. The winner of the 2009<br />
European Reggae Contest says today’s<br />
Swiss youth also have grievances to air,<br />
and they’ve started using reggae as a<br />
platform for this. Junior uses it to vocalise
his opinions on human rights issues and<br />
global injustices – themes so often left<br />
out of many modern and mainstream<br />
pop songs.<br />
“Many young Swiss that would<br />
usually be attracted to rap music are<br />
now drawn to reggae music. They feel it’s<br />
still rebellious, but more open. It’s about<br />
relaxation and meditation, and a lot of<br />
young people really like its message,” says<br />
Junior. “Reggae has always been very<br />
much the voice of the voiceless.”<br />
Junior also believes that the<br />
picturesque landscapes of Switzerland<br />
and Jamaica, though very different, both<br />
provide strong inspiration. “To be close<br />
to nature is normal in Switzerland and<br />
reggae music has always had a strong<br />
connection with nature too. There are a<br />
lot of songs in reggae which talk about<br />
“SWISS<br />
YOUTH ARE<br />
STARTING TO<br />
USE REGGAE<br />
AS A PLATFORM<br />
TO AIR THEIR<br />
GRIEVANCES”<br />
the respect for nature and for Mother<br />
Earth, which is something we Swiss<br />
can also relate to.”<br />
Junior hails from the tiny town of<br />
Neuchâtel, the epicentre of Switzerland’s<br />
reggae scene. The town is home to the<br />
recording studios of Damp Productions,<br />
where most of Switzerland’s reggae stars<br />
start out. Damp Productions, which<br />
started in 1997, has produced albums<br />
for local reggae artists such as Junior,<br />
as well as established singers from<br />
the Caribbean. One such artist is the<br />
legendary Lee “Scratch” Perry, who now<br />
lives in Zürich.<br />
REGGAE WAS LARGELY unknown in<br />
Switzerland before the 1980s, limited<br />
to the odd Bob Marley record played in<br />
bars and clubs. Then DJs such as Roots<br />
SWISS REGGAE | ZURICH<br />
GET DOWN TO DE<br />
RIDDIMS IN ZURICH<br />
KANZLEI<br />
This buzzing nightclub in the Kreis 4<br />
district boasts the coolest names in<br />
Zürich reggae. KOS Crew performs<br />
at Jamaica’s Finest on Tuesdays, and<br />
Sound Haunted spins reggae styles on<br />
weekends. 56 Kanzleistrasse, kanzlei.ch<br />
STALL 6<br />
This old theatre attracts a laidback<br />
but trendy crowd for nights such as<br />
Caribbeana and Cool Ruler. The Level<br />
The Vibe night every Monday is the<br />
quintessential Swiss reggae experience,<br />
with the latest rhythms selected by Boss<br />
Hi-Fi. 8 Gessnerallee, stall6.ch<br />
HARTEREI<br />
Home to the All Killer No Filler night with<br />
the famous Zürich reggae DJ Ali Baba<br />
Sound, Harterei also hosts live concerts.<br />
219 Hardstrasse, haerterei-club.ch<br />
ROTE FABRIK<br />
Zürich’s most vibrant venue is also home<br />
to the regular Enter the Dancehall club<br />
night. It attracts international stars, with<br />
previous guests including Sly & Robbie<br />
and David Rodigan. This month sees<br />
Junior Kelly and Warrior King perform on<br />
the 17th. 395 Seestrasse, rotefabrik.ch<br />
16 TONS (PICTURED)<br />
This retro record store specialises in<br />
reggae, world music and soul. It’s a great<br />
place for picking up collectable rare vinyl<br />
and fl yers for all the coolest club nights in<br />
town. 25 Anwandstrasse, 16tons.ch<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 71
SWISS REGGAE | ZURICH<br />
“IT’S GREAT<br />
THAT THE<br />
REGGAE CLUB<br />
CROWD IS SO<br />
MIXED HERE<br />
– IT’S A HUGE<br />
SCENE”<br />
72 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
Operator became popular, and Ganglords,<br />
who played across Europe and Jamaica.<br />
It wasn’t until Damp Productions and<br />
Zürich-based label One Ton started<br />
bringing reggae artists to the forefront of<br />
the airwaves in the late 90s that the genre<br />
really gained a foothold and became a part<br />
of mainstream Swiss music.<br />
Six years ago, a new law ensured Swiss<br />
reggae artists would get their fair share<br />
of airtime. Until 2004, contemporary<br />
Swiss artists, especially those singing in<br />
Swiss languages, were rarely heard on<br />
mainstream radio. However, on realising<br />
that local music was in danger of dying<br />
out, the Swiss Government ruled that all<br />
radio stations must play a daily quota of<br />
Swiss artists and songs in Swiss languages.<br />
This move was a huge success, and there<br />
has subsequently been a rise in interest in<br />
all types of Swiss music.<br />
Clockwise from here,<br />
the crowd at the All Killer<br />
No Filler club night;<br />
chilling out at Level the<br />
Vibes; a clubber at All<br />
Killer No Filler<br />
IN THE GERMAN side of the country, the<br />
dialect varies from city to city, but reggae<br />
has helped unify many young people<br />
who were looking for an outlet for their<br />
frustrations and unease directed at society.<br />
Zürich-based Phenomden, Switzerland’s<br />
most popular and successful reggae singer,<br />
has embodied this sentiment. His third<br />
album, Gangdalang (slang for “walk this<br />
way”), stayed in the Swiss album charts<br />
for 37 weeks, and was nominated for<br />
2009’s Best Urban Album by the Swiss<br />
Music Awards.<br />
The 29-year-old Phenomden, with his<br />
backing band The Scrucialists, sings in<br />
mundart (a German word that defi nes the<br />
Swiss-German language). He has become<br />
so popular with the youth that he’s often<br />
asked to perform at schools where children<br />
are eager to hear contemporary music in<br />
their own language.
And clubbers dig Phenomden’s music<br />
too. “It’s great that the reggae club crowd is<br />
so mixed here, as Zürich has become a very<br />
open society – it’s changed a lot in the past<br />
10 years,” he says. “Nearly every evening<br />
you can fi nd a reggae club or concert on.<br />
It’s a huge scene and there are all kinds<br />
of people at the parties. You don’t have to<br />
dress or think a certain way – there are<br />
guys in suits, ladies who are very dressed<br />
up, guys with dreadlocks, those who are<br />
more politically motivated by the music<br />
and some who are just there to dance.”<br />
IT’S NOT JUST Zürich that offers a daily<br />
diet of reggae clubs, gigs and artists,<br />
either. According to Jaba, the lead singer<br />
of eclectic band Moonraisers and founder<br />
of the website reggae.ch, reggae is now<br />
widespread throughout the country.<br />
“Geneva has a huge scene – every night<br />
there is a sound system or a group playing,<br />
and all over Switzerland there are many<br />
nights and events.” Jaba’s latest album, Do<br />
the Right Step, has been selling well in both<br />
Switzerland and France. “What has helped<br />
it become popular is that the reggae nights<br />
are hosted in all the clubs and there isn’t<br />
really one venue devoted to reggae. It’s in<br />
all the main places that everyone goes to.”<br />
Jaba feels that alongside the radio exposure<br />
and the high production quality of Swiss<br />
musicians, the scene is fi nally on its way<br />
to becoming as fashionable as the rap or<br />
house music scenes: “Reggae is rebellious,<br />
but also respectful, so it’s a soft style of<br />
revolution that is happening.”<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Zürich from London Gatwick & Luton<br />
and Manchester. See our guide on<br />
page 176. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
WHERE<br />
TO STAY<br />
IN ZURICH<br />
UNDER €100<br />
HOTEL FOYER<br />
HOTTINGEN<br />
Comfortable and<br />
welcoming, this intimate<br />
hotel boasts a superb<br />
location in Zürich’s Old<br />
Town, close to the action.<br />
Doubles from €85, book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
UNDER €150<br />
X-TRA HOTEL<br />
This seriously cool<br />
hotel has spacious<br />
rooms, plus a lively bar<br />
and lounge, and boasts<br />
one of the best clubs<br />
in town. Doubles<br />
from €108, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
UNDER €200<br />
SORELL HOTEL RUTLI<br />
For a truly trendy<br />
break, stay in one of 12<br />
über-stylish rooms with<br />
walls bearing artwork<br />
by graffi ti artists, right in<br />
the centre of Zürich.<br />
Doubles from €177, book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com
EASTERN<br />
EUROPE’S<br />
GRAPE<br />
ESCAPE<br />
WORDS MARIE CLELAND<br />
VISIT SLOVENIA’S WINE REGIONS IN<br />
SPRING WHEN THE LANDSCAPE IS WAKING<br />
UP TO SUMMER AND THE LOCALS<br />
ARE WAITING TO SHOW YOU AROUND
WINE TRAIL | SLOVENIA<br />
A QUIET<br />
REVOLUTION<br />
HAS BEEN<br />
going on in<br />
Slovenia since it gained independence<br />
from the former Yugoslavia in 1991.<br />
It’s a peaceful, exciting revolution in<br />
winemaking that could play a big part<br />
in putting this little country of just two<br />
million people on the tourist map.<br />
“Slovenia doesn’t get as much attention<br />
as it’s due – a lot of people don’t know<br />
where it is for a start, and because it’s<br />
small, there’s not a lot of wine leaving the<br />
country,” says winemaker Nick Gee. A<br />
New Zealander who married a Slovene and<br />
now works out of the Zlati Grič cellars in<br />
the north-east of the country, Nick knows<br />
fi rst-hand the potential of Slovenia’s wine<br />
and the fact that as a wine destination, the<br />
country is hugely underrated.<br />
“It sounds exotic, but actually the<br />
wine on offer in Slovenia is serious and<br />
traditional,” says Aleks Simčič, who<br />
produces wine in Brda Valley in the west,<br />
a stone’s throw from Italy’s Friuli region.<br />
WHILE SLOVENIA IS producing some<br />
excellent wines right now after an evolution<br />
in winemaking that started 20 years ago,<br />
most of the wine isn’t exported, so the<br />
best place to experience it is in the country<br />
itself, among stunning, rolling hills dotted<br />
with characterful villages. After fl ying into<br />
Ljubljana, you can drive around Slovenia’s<br />
three wine regions – Prodavje (north-east),<br />
Posavje (south-east) and Primorska (west)<br />
– in a week. Salt-of-the-earth locals will<br />
make your stay feel authentic and special,<br />
and locally sourced, natural and organic<br />
food will keep tempting your tastebuds<br />
long after you’ve returned home.<br />
In the Prodavje region, 90 minutes’<br />
drive from Ljubljana on the border with<br />
Hungary, Zlati Grič winery (zlati-gric.si) is<br />
at the forefront of Slovenia’s next generation<br />
of winemaking. Its new, contemporary<br />
cellar nestles into a 100-hectare vineyard<br />
at the heart of the village of Slovenske<br />
Konjice. The cellar’s ultra-modern façade is<br />
aimed at attracting discerning tourists, and<br />
its high-tech machinery allows winemaker<br />
Nick Gee to produce top-quality wines.<br />
The complex’s low-lying form also plays<br />
a vital part in preserving the cultural<br />
heritage of the vineyard, which features an<br />
unusual geometric confi guration of vines,<br />
and is dotted with historic manor houses<br />
built by wealthy Austrian landowners.<br />
76 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
“OUR GOAL<br />
IS TO MAKE<br />
ZLATI GRIC<br />
WINERY A MINI<br />
DESTINATION”<br />
Clockwise from above, the<br />
cellar at Zlati Grič; one of the<br />
winery’s historic manor houses;<br />
and the golf course that runs<br />
through the middle of the vines
WINE TRAIL | SLOVENIA<br />
TAKE FIVE TOP<br />
WINE BARS AND<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
VINOTEKA VIPAVA<br />
This is the perfect place for an overview<br />
of the wines of the Vipava Valley. It offers<br />
tastings from a range of over 150 wines<br />
from 43 winemakers. 1 Glavni Trg, Vipava,<br />
vipavska-dolina.si<br />
PRI LOJZETU<br />
This superb restaurant offers slow-food<br />
feasts out of the stately ambience of<br />
Zemono manor house. Wines from the<br />
Vipava Valley, nearby Gorisˇka Brda and<br />
the Karst complement chef Tomazˇ<br />
Srsˇen’s seasonal dishes. 8 Zemono,<br />
Vipava, tel: +386 (0)5 368 7007<br />
HISA POSEBNE SORTA (PICTURED)<br />
Locavores will salivate at the delicious<br />
menu at this chic, farmhouse restaurant.<br />
All the produce comes from the family’s<br />
farm or the local village, from apricot<br />
jam to apple brandy, cheese to muscat<br />
dessert wine. 15 Kodreti, Štanjel, tel:<br />
+386 (0)5 769 0000, sorta.si<br />
ENOTEKA GRAD STANJEL<br />
Below is a 1,000-year-old cellar, above<br />
is a modern restaurant for sampling<br />
the best of Karst wines and cuisine. 1A<br />
Štanjel, tel: +386 (0)5 769 0118<br />
VINOTEKA MOVIA<br />
This vinoteka serves wines from all over<br />
Slovenia, as well as from Movia winery. In<br />
a cosy space with the feel of a traditional<br />
cellar, it offers tastings accompanied by<br />
appetisers. 1 Mestni Trg, Ljubljana<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 77
WINE TRAIL | SLOVENIA<br />
“The goal for the future is to make the<br />
entire complex a kind of mini destination<br />
for visitors,” says general manager Janez<br />
Lesˇnik. Already on offer is apartment<br />
accommodation in an historic house, a<br />
nine-hole golf course among the vines, a<br />
restaurant, and tours of the wine cellar.<br />
Visitors to Zlati Grič can sample its<br />
increasingly complex, aromatic wines,<br />
as well as traditional blueberry brandy<br />
and natural apple juice. In this haven of<br />
pristine landscapes and tranquillity, there’s<br />
a renowned health spa close by – Terme<br />
Zreče (terme-zrece.eu) – as well as walking<br />
trails in the local countryside.<br />
It’s not just Zlati Grič with its<br />
contemporary cellar and blossoming<br />
vintages that is championing Slovenia’s<br />
wine tourism. The wineries on the other<br />
side of the country in the Primorska region<br />
are some of the best-known Slovenian<br />
78 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
Clockwise from here,<br />
Zlati Grič’s vines are<br />
planted in an unusual<br />
geometric confi guration;<br />
visionary winemaker<br />
Alesˇ Kristančič; view<br />
of the Brda Valley from<br />
Movia winery; Valvas’or’s<br />
contemporary interior<br />
wine producers in terms of international<br />
exposure and pushing the boundaries<br />
of winemaking. Austrian, German and<br />
Italian tourists already visit the region,<br />
and now Brits are discovering it too.<br />
ONE SUCH CLUSTER of top producers<br />
is situated in the idyllic Brda Valley.<br />
Straddling the border between Slovenia<br />
and Italy, Brda blooms in spring, the valley<br />
speckled with fl owering cherry trees. One<br />
of the best vantage points for standing in<br />
awe at the view is above the vineyard of<br />
Edi Simčič (edisimcic.si), on the balcony of<br />
the winery’s new guesthouse.<br />
Like many Slovenians, Aleks Simčič<br />
(Edi’s son) grew up drinking wine from<br />
his family’s vines, though it’s only in the<br />
past two decades that a fully functioning<br />
vineyard has been developed. Visitors<br />
to the winery can expect a tour of the<br />
cellars and the vineyard, wine tastings<br />
and a chance to sample home-grown<br />
olive oil, fruit such as kiwi and citrus, and<br />
prosciutto from the farm’s pigs. Aleks’<br />
wife Martina cooks up seasonal dishes<br />
that satisfy all the senses. In April, these<br />
include herb-infused recipes such as<br />
frittata, and sweet delights such as jamfi<br />
lled gnocchi. “We are used to eating good<br />
quality food,” says Martina.<br />
No stay in the Brda Valley would be<br />
complete without a visit to Movia winery<br />
(movia.si). Possibly Slovenia’s bestknown<br />
wine producer, it’s no coincidence<br />
overseas dignitaries, from princes to prime<br />
ministers, are often shown around Movia<br />
on offi cial visits. Charismatic winemaker<br />
Alěs Kristančič is innovative, passionate<br />
and a visionary, all of which is evident<br />
in the superb wines he creates. Onsite is<br />
a vinoteka for sampling Movia’s wines,
“SLOVENIA<br />
DOESN’T GET<br />
AS MUCH<br />
ATTENTION<br />
AS IT’S DUE”<br />
and larger groups can enjoy a meal on the<br />
balcony looking out over the Brda Valley.<br />
LIKE MANY VINEYARDS in Slovenia,<br />
Movia is based on natural principles. It’s<br />
biodynamic, though not certifi ed. Organic<br />
and biodynamic methods have traditionally<br />
played a part in Slovenian winemaking, not<br />
because they’re trendy, but because people<br />
believe it makes sense to respect nature. In<br />
the Vipava Valley, a 40-minute drive from<br />
Brda, Miha Batič’s family winery (batic.<br />
si) uses growing techniques based on an<br />
ancient system developed for that valley and<br />
its microclimate. Miha likes it when visitors<br />
come to the winery and tour the vineyard,<br />
because they can get a sense, quite literally,<br />
of the roots of his family’s wine.<br />
Back in Ljubljana, and chic locals<br />
gather at Restaurant Valvas’or (7 Stari<br />
Trg, tel: +386 (0)1 425 0455) to dine on<br />
contemporary cuisine complemented by<br />
Slovenian wines. In this trendy setting,<br />
cutting-edge design meets the classical<br />
architecture of the Old Town, while on<br />
the menu, fusion cuisine more commonly<br />
associated with the Pacifi c Rim adds a<br />
touch of the exotic to local dishes and<br />
ingredients. It’s a combination of history<br />
and modernity, foreign infl uence and<br />
local fl avour that applies as much to this<br />
restaurant as it does to Slovenia’s wine<br />
industry. And there’s no better place to<br />
sit back with a glass of Movia’s Puro rose,<br />
indulge in Adriatic seafood, and refl ect on<br />
the unexpected delights that await visitors<br />
to this rare treat on the European map.<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Ljubljana from London Stansted.<br />
See our insider guide on page 146.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com<br />
WHERE<br />
TO STAY IN<br />
SLOVENIA<br />
UNDER €100<br />
BED AND BREAKFAST<br />
FLUMEN<br />
This cosy bolthole on<br />
the Italian border is<br />
the perfect base for<br />
exploring the Brda<br />
Valley and its vineyards.<br />
Doubles from €80, book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
UNDER €150<br />
CITY HOTEL<br />
A 10-minute stroll from<br />
this four-star brings<br />
you to the centre<br />
of Ljubljana, and to<br />
Valvas’or restaurant for<br />
top-notch food and wine.<br />
Doubles from €97, book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
UNDER €200<br />
HOTEL DONAT<br />
Visit Zlati Grič winery<br />
in Slovenske Konjice<br />
and then relax at this<br />
renowned spa hotel<br />
close by in the town of<br />
Rogaška Slatina. Doubles<br />
from €196, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com
BODYFLYING | MANCHESTER
BODYFLYING | MANCHESTER<br />
WHOOSH<br />
YOU<br />
WERE<br />
HERE?<br />
WORDS IRMA HEGER | PHOTOS DAN KENYON<br />
HEAD TO MANCHESTER’S NEWEST<br />
THRILL-SEEKING ATTRACTION<br />
AND FIND OUT WHAT IT FEELS LIKE<br />
TO FLY WITHOUT WINGS
BODYFLYING | MANCHESTER<br />
82 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
“IT’S A<br />
TOTALLY<br />
REALISTIC<br />
FREEFALL<br />
– WITHOUT<br />
THE FEAR”
IT’S SKYDIVING<br />
IN REVERSE<br />
– you’re<br />
blasted upwards instead of down. It’s<br />
also without the sky, the plane and the<br />
parachute. With indoor skydiving, or<br />
bodyfl ying as it’s also known, you get the<br />
sensation of freefalling, without the fall.<br />
And the best place to try it is Airkix in<br />
Manchester, which has just opened what it<br />
claims is the UK’s largest wind tunnel.<br />
Adrenaline junkies from around the<br />
world love bodyfl ying. Anyone from age<br />
four to 104, regardless of sporting ability<br />
or experience, can safely have a go. As long<br />
as you weigh less than 115kg, that is. And<br />
you’re not pregnant, don’t have a dodgy<br />
heart or a previously dislocated shoulder.<br />
Airkix, which started in Milton Keynes<br />
in 2005 and expanded to Manchester this<br />
year, sees fl yers of all plumage fl ocking<br />
through its doors. Santa, a double amputee,<br />
a fl ightless bird, dogs, nudists, even a<br />
baby have managed to stay afl oat in the<br />
zero-gravity, 190kmph airfl ow of the wind<br />
tunnel. One woman used a bodyfl ight<br />
to celebrate her divorce, and a couple got<br />
engaged mid-air. The Beckhams once hired<br />
out the Milton Keynes centre for their<br />
family’s private use.<br />
Now, I’ve joined their ranks. Too scared<br />
to skydive, but having previously enjoyed<br />
gliding, helicopter rides and fl ying lessons,<br />
I thought I might like fl ying without wings<br />
for a change. The idea of indoor fl ying<br />
– pioneered by the US army in the 1960s<br />
– appealed. Who hasn’t dreamt of being<br />
free as a bird?<br />
THE NEW £4.4M (€5m) Airkix base, a 20mhigh<br />
venue with a futuristic look, is the<br />
place to head if you’re similarly inclined.<br />
Close to the M60 motorway, it’s a stone’s<br />
throw from shopping mecca The Trafford<br />
Centre and next to indoor ski slope the<br />
Chill Factor e . There’s a bar and café, a<br />
viewing area open to anyone, and lots of<br />
friendly staff milling around the place.<br />
The tunnel in which you fl y is 4.28m in<br />
diameter, and seasoned skydivers – who<br />
frequently practise here – can fl y up to the<br />
maximum height of 11.9m. Thankfully,<br />
beginners fl y much closer to the ground.<br />
On arrival, fi rst-time fl iers are shown<br />
a short instructional DVD, meet their<br />
instructor, and are kitted out with helmets,<br />
goggles and all-in-one suits. Plus ear plugs.<br />
Flying in a wind tunnel that’s fi t for testing<br />
the aerodynamics of a Formula One racing<br />
car is not a serene affair. More like sticking<br />
your head out of the window of a speeding<br />
car on the motorway. Hence the need for<br />
learning hand signals that the instructor<br />
will use to tell you to “straighten your legs”;<br />
“bend your legs”; “chin up” and “relaaaaax”<br />
– all vital adjustments to your fl ying<br />
(dis)position. You’re also told to bend your<br />
arms at the elbows and arch your back. You<br />
may soon be fl ying around Superman-style,<br />
but the posture is slightly less rigid. Sudden<br />
movements are discouraged, as is horseplay<br />
– purposely fl ying into walls and the like.<br />
AS OUR PARTY of four lined up on the<br />
bench outside the glass tunnel to take our<br />
turns, nerves crept in. It all seemed safe<br />
enough – the fl oor through which the air<br />
blasts up is made of bouncy cable netting,<br />
we’d only be fl ying at head height, so well<br />
away from the ceiling and we’d have an<br />
instructor at our side at all times. Still, I<br />
decided to let everyone fl y before me.<br />
My friend Nichola fl oated around<br />
gracefully with a big grin on her face,<br />
while my husband, by his own admission,<br />
looked like “a shot spider” with a helmet<br />
on, but loved it. Our friend Wesley jokingly<br />
repeated the mantra, “adapt, overcome and<br />
improvise”, from his old army days before a<br />
commendable performance.<br />
As for me, I took his other old army<br />
mantra of “ignore the fear” to heart as<br />
I leant forward through the door and<br />
let the wind blast me off my feet. Arms<br />
outstretched in front of me, chin up, legs<br />
Top, “Nervous – who me?”;<br />
above, a bodyfl yer doing a<br />
great impersonation of a “shot<br />
spider”; opposite, the writer<br />
gets her 60 seconds of air time<br />
TAKE FIVE<br />
MANCHESTER<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
GO APE!<br />
Take part in a “high-wire forest<br />
adventure” with a series of giant obstacle<br />
courses up in the trees, including ladders,<br />
bridges and tunnels. Prices from £20<br />
(€22); Rivington Lane, Horwich, tel: +44<br />
(0)845 643 9215, goape.co.uk<br />
THE WHEEL OF MANCHESTER<br />
This graceful giant takes you on a 13minute<br />
ride with spectacular 360° views<br />
day or night. A VIP capsule offers optional<br />
champagne. Family ticket £18; Exchange<br />
Square, tel: +44 (0)161 831 9918,<br />
worldtouristattractions.co.uk<br />
DAYTONA MANCHESTER<br />
This heated indoor stadium offers<br />
go-karting year-round on a challenging,<br />
450m circuit. Prices from £25; Circle<br />
South, Wharfside Way, Trafford Park, tel:<br />
+44 (0)845 644 5505, daytona.co.uk<br />
CHILL FACTORE (PICTURED)<br />
The largest indoor “real” snow slope in<br />
the country offers skiing, snowboarding,<br />
tubing and luging (hurtling down a 60m<br />
long ice slide on a special mat). Prices<br />
from £15, Trafford Quays Leisure Village,<br />
tel: +44 (0)161 749 2222, chillfactore.com<br />
MANCHESTER CLIMBING CENTRE<br />
This centre has one of the largest<br />
climbing walls in Europe. Suitable for<br />
novices to rock legends. Prices from<br />
£5.50; St Benedict’s Church, Bennett<br />
Street, tel: +44 (0)161 230 7006,<br />
manchesterclimbingcentre.com<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 83
BODYFLYING | MANCHESTER<br />
shoulder-width apart and slightly bent, I<br />
had soon adapted a passable belly-to-earth<br />
fl ying position. The hurricane-strength<br />
wind blowing about my body made making<br />
adjustments to my position diffi cult, but<br />
I was airborne for more than a minute<br />
(which is longer than the average skydive).<br />
Despite telling myself off for my mistakes<br />
mid-air, and not dazzling my fellow-fl yers<br />
with my airborne antics, I felt elated.<br />
After our second fl ight of a minute or so,<br />
we shakily peeled off the fl ying suits – the<br />
adrenaline pumping through our bodies,<br />
conversation buzzing, big smiles on our<br />
faces. It took all four of us a lot longer to<br />
“come down” from our experience than it<br />
had taken us to actually fl y.<br />
“It’s a totally realistic freefall simulator,”<br />
Airkix boss Simon Ward assured me<br />
afterwards. He should know, with more<br />
84 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
than 4,000 skydives to his name. “It’s<br />
freefall without the fear,” says Simon, who<br />
likes to call his centres “smile factories” for<br />
their ability to upturn the corners of even<br />
the grumpiest of mouths.<br />
Clutching our certifi cates and basking in<br />
our new statuses as “pro fl yers”, we watched<br />
the DVD of our performances. It’s fair to<br />
say that the four of us aren’t expecting any<br />
calls to join the Airkix staff or skydiving<br />
teams (though Wesley might hold out secret<br />
hopes), but we all agreed – what a blast!<br />
Prices from £29.99 (€34); Trafford<br />
Quays Leisure Village, 9 Trafford Way, tel:<br />
+44 (0)845 331 6549, airkix.com<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Manchester from 19 destinations.<br />
See our insider guide on page 155.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com<br />
WHERE<br />
TO STAY IN<br />
MANCHESTER<br />
UNDER €50<br />
LUTHER KING HOUSE<br />
Save your pennies<br />
for Manchester’s<br />
adrenaline-fuelled<br />
offerings by staying at<br />
this comfortable threestar<br />
in the suburbs.<br />
Doubles from €44, book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
UNDER €100<br />
COPTHORNE HOTEL<br />
In a picturesque spot<br />
on the waterfront, close<br />
to the city centre, the<br />
Copthorne is the perfect<br />
place to unwind after<br />
your bodyfl ying session.<br />
Doubles from €67, book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
UNDER €150<br />
BACHERS OF<br />
MANCHESTER<br />
Explore central<br />
Manchester or<br />
just enjoy relaxing<br />
in contemporary<br />
surrounds. Apartments<br />
from €87, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com
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BIG DEBATE | PATERNITY LEAVE<br />
YES<br />
SAYS ROSIE CARR<br />
SHOULD<br />
GOVERNMENTS<br />
STOP PUSHING<br />
PATERNITY<br />
LEAVE?<br />
ALL KIDS NEED their dads, but the only<br />
person a newborn needs is its mother.<br />
Maternity leave is crucial for the baby<br />
and helps the mother too – she’s just<br />
been through the equivalent of running a<br />
marathon and her body is in serious need of<br />
rest. But as for the dad, apart from a small<br />
effort some nine months earlier, what has<br />
he done to deserve six months off work?<br />
According to equality champions, who<br />
can’t abide the notion that men and women<br />
are different, the father has just as much<br />
right to be at home nurturing and rearing<br />
his young child. But the difference between<br />
men and women does matter: fathers can’t<br />
breastfeed, for a start.<br />
Dads are far more useful later on when<br />
children are physically active and need help<br />
88 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
and encouragement to explore different<br />
interests. This is why in households where<br />
the father earns less than the mother, it’s<br />
often he who stays home with the kids.<br />
It’s absurd to imply that a new mother<br />
doesn’t need maternity leave and that she<br />
should allow her partner to use it instead.<br />
One German dad, taking advantage of<br />
Germany’s Elterngeld system, which<br />
allows parents to take 14 months off<br />
between them, explained in an interview<br />
how he had stayed at home to look after<br />
his infant daughter, but admitted to taking<br />
the child into his wife’s workplace twice a<br />
day for feeding.<br />
There is no evidence to suggest that a<br />
newborn looked after by its dad is better<br />
off than one reared by its mum. Nor is<br />
there evidence to suggest that a higher<br />
uptake of paternity leave will lead to better<br />
career progression for women. The fact is<br />
that most mothers want a good work-life<br />
balance, not to climb to the top and work<br />
even longer hours. And paternity leave<br />
won’t help dads’ careers either.<br />
I asked six men (all dads) in my offi ce if<br />
they would choose to take paternity leave<br />
and send their partners back to work.<br />
One complained that although he’d taken<br />
two weeks off following the birth of his<br />
child, he’d felt “pretty useless” most of the<br />
time. “I couldn’t feed her when she was<br />
hungry, and frankly, I fi nd babies under<br />
the age of two boring.” The others agreed,<br />
with comments such as: “I haven’t got the<br />
right equipment.” And the women I asked<br />
complained that dads tended to treat leave<br />
linked to children as an excuse to lounge<br />
around and watch TV.<br />
EQUALITY ZEALOTS ARE adamant that<br />
fathers have a huge appetite for spending<br />
more time with their children. However, in<br />
Sweden, which offers generous paternity<br />
leave, dads don’t take large amounts of<br />
time off. So if paternity leave isn’t essential<br />
for a baby’s development, and dads aren’t<br />
too keen on taking it, who does it benefi t?<br />
Employers? Quite the opposite. It’s<br />
disruptive, costly and means tonnes more<br />
paperwork. It’s a pity that some of the<br />
money being lavished by the PC brigade<br />
on persuading dads that they should<br />
participate more actively in infant care<br />
doesn’t stretch to changing male attitudes<br />
to housework.<br />
Rosie Carr is deputy editor of Investors<br />
Chronicle magazine
ILLUSTRATION © ALEX GREEN/FOLIOART.CO.UK<br />
NO<br />
SAYS IAN WYLIE<br />
IT’S NOT THE prettiest sight in your local<br />
Starbucks or Costa: a dad in sick-stained<br />
shirt awkwardly trying to balance a crying<br />
baby in one hand and a latte in the other<br />
as he watches the clock, willing his partner<br />
to get home from work. But the UK<br />
Government’s announcement that from<br />
April 2011 British dads will be entitled to<br />
three months of paid paternity leave if their<br />
partners return to work is just the latest<br />
sign that European lawmakers recognise<br />
the importance of fathers spending more<br />
time with their young children.<br />
If you’re a dad in, say, Germany the law<br />
is fl exible enough to allow you to work half<br />
time on your parental leave. Paid leave in<br />
Sweden allows fathers to enjoy 16 months<br />
with their children from when they are<br />
newborns – two months are set aside<br />
for each parent and the rest can be<br />
used by either.<br />
As a hands-on father of three, I know<br />
from experience that looking after a<br />
baby all day is no picnic. I’d take offi ce<br />
work every time, given the chance. But<br />
the research is also clear: the greater the<br />
involvement of fathers in childcare at the<br />
very beginning, the greater the wellbeing<br />
of those children as they grow up.<br />
We’ve known for years that children<br />
need their fathers’ input. A study published<br />
by Lancaster University a decade ago<br />
found that where fathers were involved<br />
with their babies’ care, there was more<br />
likelihood that the mother would fi nd<br />
the process of breast-feeding a bit easier,<br />
that the child would be more successful at<br />
examinations as a high-school student, and<br />
less likely to have a criminal record by the<br />
age of 21.<br />
LOOKING AFTER A baby while your<br />
partner is at work can be lonely and<br />
isolating. But with every dirty nappy you<br />
change and with every cuddle you give,<br />
you’re investing in your child’s wellbeing<br />
and future happiness. There are precious<br />
BIG DEBATE | PATERNITY LEAVE<br />
few opportunities beyond weekends and<br />
holidays to spend signifi cant amounts of<br />
time bonding with our children. A month<br />
or two of paternity leave with a newborn<br />
may be a father’s last chance at anything<br />
like it. There’s an issue of equality too. Why<br />
shouldn’t men have the same parental<br />
rights as women? Aside from the recovery<br />
time a mother needs to get over the birth,<br />
leave is just as relevant for fathers, who<br />
are equally capable of looking after their<br />
kids. Mothers don’t have a monopoly on<br />
good parenting, just as dads don’t have a<br />
monopoly on being the “breadwinner”.<br />
So you’re worried about the cost of these<br />
measures? That you’ll end up covering<br />
the workload of a colleague who’s on<br />
paternity leave? That’s called sharing the<br />
burden. Just as I, and my children, will<br />
gladly share the burden of working to pay<br />
taxes so that everyone can benefi t from<br />
healthcare, infrastructure, policing and so<br />
on. Of course, not every father will take up<br />
the offer. But we shouldn’t deny this right<br />
to those who understand that the time<br />
they can carry their baby in their arms is<br />
relatively short – but infi nitely important.<br />
Ian Wylie writes for The Financial<br />
Times and the Guardian<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 89
,<br />
<br />
:<br />
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@.<br />
<br />
,,<br />
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@.
Come home to a.....<br />
STATELY<br />
DIRECTORY | PROPERTY<br />
Europe’s Longest Established Manufacturer of Park Homes<br />
STATELY-ALBION LTD Tel: (01495) 244472 visit us on our website: www.stately-albion.co.uk
PROPERTY | LANZAROTE<br />
This carefully<br />
designed house by<br />
César Manrique<br />
incorporates the<br />
local volcanic<br />
environment to<br />
stunning effect<br />
ISLAND<br />
SUBLIME<br />
WORDS ZOE DARE HALL<br />
Head off the beaten track<br />
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WHEN BORGE JENSEN wanted to build a<br />
house like no other on Lanzarote, he called<br />
on friend César Manrique, the revered<br />
local artist and architect whose blueprint<br />
for Lanzarote’s urban planning has<br />
ensured the island has remained low-rise,<br />
whitewashed and sensitively developed.<br />
“I have always been fascinated by<br />
Lanzarote’s lava fi elds, which feel<br />
as though you are entering another<br />
dimension, so when Manrique and I found<br />
this plot in Tahiche, a village in the hills<br />
behind Arrieta in the north, we knew it<br />
was perfect,” says Børge, a Danish designer<br />
whose house sits on a lava bubble, where<br />
a volcanic eruption left an air pocket in<br />
the molten liquid.<br />
“My lava bubble forms part of my living<br />
room and is similar to one that Manrique<br />
had in his house that was open to the<br />
elements. When it rained, you could lie<br />
on the sofa and look up and it was as if<br />
WE’RE HERE TO TAKE CARE OF ‘FIRST TIME’ BUSINESS.<br />
diamonds were falling from the sky,”<br />
Børge says of his house, Casa Teiga<br />
(casateiga.com), which is now on the<br />
market for €1.2m through K2 Properties<br />
(k2lanzarote.com).<br />
Houses like Casa Teiga are also seeing<br />
good year-round rental returns from<br />
tourists who want to explore Lanzarote’s<br />
wilder side, with its distinctive, dramatic<br />
volcanic landscapes. “People love the<br />
feeling of being completely disconnected<br />
from the world here,” Børge says.<br />
While most tourists make a beeline for<br />
the resorts of Puerto del Carmen, Playa<br />
Blanca and Costa Teguise, Heidi Wigmore,<br />
who runs Lanzarote-based interior design<br />
company Buy Design, encourages more<br />
visitors to appreciate natural attractions<br />
such as the lagoon at El Golfo or tiny La<br />
Graciosa Island, 2km off the north coast.<br />
“We don’t want hoards of tourists to<br />
start trampling through small fi shing<br />
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villages such as Arrieta or Punta Mujeres,<br />
but we do want to show people the ‘nice<br />
side’ of Lanzarote beyond the mainstream<br />
resorts,” says Heidi, who moved there from<br />
Essex 13 years ago and lives in Conil, near<br />
Puerto del Carmen, with her husband<br />
Mark and their three children.<br />
“You can fi nd everything from studios<br />
to out-of-this-world villas that are set in<br />
amazing surroundings and whose owners<br />
really make an effort to be eco-friendly<br />
with features such as solar heating and<br />
low-energy bulbs,” she explains. “People<br />
don’t think of Lanzarote as a rural place<br />
and we’re trying to change that.”<br />
Most second-home buyers choose<br />
holiday apartments or villas in towns such<br />
as Playa Blanca, where rental potential is<br />
good, but competition is fi erce. Due to an<br />
over-supply of new-build properties, prices<br />
in the resorts have also dropped by about<br />
30% since the market’s 2007 peak.<br />
Price falls have been less dramatic<br />
in rural areas due to a lack of supply of<br />
properties for sale. For those preferring<br />
a slice of alternative Lanzarote, look in<br />
northern villages such as Punta Mujeres,<br />
Maguez or Tabayesco for old properties<br />
with traditional Canarian charm.<br />
Philipp Imhof, a 43-year-old former<br />
Swiss banker who now enjoys a quieter<br />
life in Lanzarote, owns the dramatically<br />
located property El Mar Y Tu (elmarytu.<br />
com), set on the rocks overlooking the<br />
ocean in Arrieta. “Lanzarote has two<br />
faces,” says Philipp. “There’s the mass<br />
tourism side, where everyone stays in the<br />
mainstream complexes, and there’s the<br />
high-quality tourism, with chic rural villas<br />
for people who like walking and exploring<br />
the inside of a volcano, deserted beaches or<br />
gorgeous natural pools.”<br />
And it seems, at last, that more people<br />
are starting to appreciate that more<br />
authentic side. “People’s perceptions of<br />
Lanzarote are gradually changing,” says<br />
Heidi Wigmore, “and it’s bringing a more<br />
positive type of tourist.” Just not too many,<br />
she hopes, so at least some of those tracks<br />
can remain unbeaten.<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Lanzarote from London, Madrid and<br />
Liverpool. See our insider guide on<br />
page 142. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
PROPERTY | LANZAROTE<br />
CHIC CANARIAN LIVING FOR LESS<br />
UNDER €200,000<br />
This ruin in the village of Tiagua in<br />
northern Lanzarote has 10 rooms set<br />
around a courtyard with a traditional<br />
aljibe (water tank) that could be<br />
converted into a plunge pool. The<br />
property would make a perfect B&B,<br />
with the nearby Caleta de Famara<br />
fi shing village and its beach popular with<br />
surfers, kitesurfers and hang-gliders. The<br />
property is also a stone’s throw away<br />
from the sports complex that hosts the<br />
annual Iron Man competition. Available<br />
for €178,000 through K2 Properties, tel:<br />
+34 928 529 152, k2lanzarote.com<br />
AROUND €300,000<br />
This large house in Tabayesco, in the<br />
rural Haría region of northern Lanzarote<br />
has four bedrooms, two bathrooms, two<br />
living rooms and sits on 1,500m 2 of land.<br />
There is also a 100m 2 patio overlooking<br />
mature gardens. The house dates back<br />
to the 1890s and the owners have been<br />
renovating and adding to it for the past<br />
fi ve years, so little needs to be done.<br />
It’s just a fi ve-minute walk to the beach,<br />
making it a fantastic rental property.<br />
Available for €300,000 through<br />
Freedom4sale, tel: +34 928 346 754,<br />
freedom4sale.com<br />
UNDER €450,000<br />
A rare opportunity to purchase a<br />
bungalow right on the beach in the<br />
surfers’ paradise of Famara, set in a<br />
national park with stunning beach views.<br />
The bungalow consists of four bedrooms<br />
and three bathrooms, one of which is<br />
independent from the house. There is<br />
also a living room, kitchen, large terrace,<br />
1,000m 2 private garden with views<br />
across to the island of La Graciosa, and<br />
a double garage. The old town of Teguise<br />
is a 10-minute drive away. Available for<br />
€425,000 through Freedom4sale, tel:<br />
+34 928 346 754, freedom4sale.com
DIRECTORY | PROPERTY<br />
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FIREHOSE<br />
TO FASHION<br />
SHOWS<br />
WORDS MARIE CLELAND<br />
You can’t make a silk<br />
purse out of a sow’s ear,<br />
but you can make it<br />
from industrial waste if<br />
you’re an eco warrior<br />
with a creative touch<br />
THE CROWD BUZZES around artworks<br />
on white plinths. Champagne bubbles<br />
fi zz in glass fl utes, buyers eye up potential<br />
purchases, and spotlights beam down on<br />
geometric shapes and insect-inspired forms.<br />
But this is no art gallery, nor are these<br />
straight artworks. It’s the launch party for<br />
the eco-fashion ranges at London Fashion<br />
Week (LFW), and the pieces that the crowd<br />
is oohing and aahing over are in fact luxury<br />
bags. But there’s an added dimension: these<br />
bags are made out of old fi rehoses.<br />
It’s a groundbreaking idea, born out of an<br />
unusual collaboration. An arts agency that<br />
specialises in environmental projects teams<br />
up with a company that reuses industrial<br />
waste material, and they commission<br />
artists to create a range of well-crafted,<br />
beautiful bags that will appeal to the fashion<br />
market. The bags are a practical solution<br />
to a waste problem, a vehicle for educating<br />
a new audience, and an affordable option<br />
for art fans. “Rather than paying £20,000<br />
(€22,000), you’re paying £300 for a major<br />
artwork,” says Isabella Macpherson of Arts<br />
Co (arts-co.com), the “Arts” part of the<br />
project’s brand name, Elvis & Kresse Arts.<br />
Since the pre-launch of the bags at<br />
Sotheby’s auction house in January,<br />
collectors of multi-disciplined artist Simon<br />
Periton have already snapped up his Elvis<br />
& Kresse Arts Beelzebag. And the company<br />
has had “a crazy amount of orders” for<br />
the other designs too, by artists Olivier<br />
Millagou, Paul Morrison and Lothar Gotz.<br />
With the display at LFW in February a<br />
resounding success, and the launch this<br />
month at Selfridges department store in<br />
London, the Elvis & Kresse Arts project has<br />
certainly got off to a promising start.<br />
THIS KIND OF venture doesn’t happen<br />
overnight. For Kresse Wesling, one-half of<br />
Elvis & Kresse (elvisandkresse.com), the<br />
company behind the reclaimed fi rehoses, it’s<br />
been a long road getting to this point. After<br />
studying politics, Canadian-born Kresse<br />
BUSINESS | ECO FASHION<br />
The Beelzebag by artist<br />
Simon Periton for Elvis &<br />
Kresse Arts is made from<br />
recycled fi rehose and<br />
saddle-leather offcuts<br />
harnessed her passion for the environment<br />
and her business acumen to start her fi rst<br />
green company. She met her partner James<br />
“Elvis” Henrit and followed him to the UK,<br />
continuing to focus on green causes.<br />
Then fate stepped in. At an environmental<br />
conference, Kresse sat next to a fi reman who<br />
told her about fi rehose as a waste stream.<br />
The average fi rehose can be used for up to<br />
30 years, but in the line of duty, quickly gets<br />
dragged through debris, fl ames and broken<br />
glass. Fire stations devote a lot of manhours<br />
to fi xing fi rehoses, but inevitably,<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 99
BUSINESS | ECO FASHION<br />
punctures render the hoses useless, and they<br />
end up in landfi ll.<br />
“The initial reaction I had was that I<br />
just couldn’t see the material go to waste,”<br />
says Kresse. Hose started piling up in the<br />
couple’s back garden while Kresse tried to<br />
fi gure out what to do with it, but after a<br />
lot of elbow grease, the pair had created a<br />
usable textile. “The amount of work that<br />
goes into cleaning it is pretty crazy,” says<br />
Kresse. “You name it, we tried it. I even<br />
strapped some to my waist once and went<br />
running down the beach.”<br />
Now what to do with it? First came<br />
belts – simple forms that suited the durable<br />
material. The couple were halfway through<br />
constructing a prototype in 2007 when the<br />
merchandiser for the climate action event<br />
Live Earth London contacted them and put<br />
in an order for 500, all of which sold out.<br />
Says Kresse: “I think the belts were well<br />
suited to the type of crowd that was there<br />
– they were made in London from a London<br />
waste stream. You can’t really get more low<br />
carbon than that.” They also made guitar<br />
straps, since seen on the likes of Leonard<br />
Cohen and Phoenix Rose. Sarah Brown,<br />
wife of UK Prime Minister Gordon Brown,<br />
was lately spotted out and about wearing<br />
one of Elvis and Kresse’s belts and Cameron<br />
Diaz fl ashed one on the opening spread of<br />
an American Vogue shoot last year.<br />
And so, Elvis & Kresse Organisation, or<br />
EaKo, was born. Once they added more core<br />
items to the range, they started to attract<br />
more consumers, and the business began<br />
to pay off. In their fi rst year, they made a<br />
turnover of £15,000, in their second, that<br />
100 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
leaped to £200,000. This year, profi ts are<br />
expected to almost double on last year’s<br />
fi gure. But it’s not just about profi ts.<br />
“We’re a social enterprise and our targets<br />
are volumes of waste and how much money<br />
we’re able to give back,” says Kresse. “We<br />
give 50% of our profi ts to charity on a lineby-line<br />
basis. And in the past 12 months, we<br />
have collected 80 tonnes of waste.”<br />
In the same year that Elvis & Kresse<br />
set up EaKo, Sigrid Wilkinson and<br />
Isabella Macpherson were also starting a<br />
new business – Arts Co – an agency that<br />
brings artists and their potential clients<br />
together. Arts Co projects have included<br />
wildlife habitats and eco artworks, with<br />
clients ranging from eco warrior David de<br />
Rothschild to philanthropist Pia Getty, the<br />
Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) and the<br />
London Underground.<br />
THE BAGS OFFER A PRACTICAL<br />
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It was the V&A project that brought Arts<br />
Co and Elvis & Kresse together. Isabella and<br />
Sigrid saw huge potential for the fi rehose<br />
products to appeal to a new audience: the<br />
fashion world. For Elvis & Kresse, this<br />
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Kresse believes luxury eco fashion can<br />
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FIVE OF THE BEST<br />
WI-FI CAFES<br />
Bedford and Strand (pictured) LONDON<br />
Open from noon till midnight, this buzzy<br />
café/bar is in the heart of the West End.<br />
Head here post-meeting for a glass of<br />
wine and a bowl of crispy calamari from<br />
the deli counter, and email colleagues<br />
with the latest developments. 1A Bedford<br />
Street, tel: + 44 (0)20 7836 3033<br />
Arccafé BARCELONA<br />
For free Wi-Fi, delicious food, good music<br />
and a selection of newspapers, Arccafé<br />
is ideal. Grab a quick bite to eat while<br />
fi nalising work – the house speciality<br />
is Thai curry for ¤9.80. 19 Carrer d’en<br />
Carabassa, tel: +34 933 025 204<br />
Tapa Coffeehouse GLASGOW<br />
Recently hailed as one of the best coffee<br />
shops in the UK by The Independent<br />
newspaper, Tapa is the place for an<br />
inspiring caffeine fi x. The menu includes<br />
fresh roasts from Brazil, Guatemala,<br />
Ethiopia and Peru, served with organic<br />
Scottish milk. 721 Pollokshaws Rd,<br />
Strathbungo, tel: +44 (0)141 423 9494<br />
Café Victor COPENHAGEN<br />
This prestigious bistro-café has been<br />
open for almost 30 years, yet it’s still<br />
the place in town to be seen. Order a<br />
cappuccino, sit amid the cool arty crowd,<br />
and check emails at your leisure. 8 Ny<br />
Østergade, tel: +45 3313 3613<br />
Káva Káva Káva PRAGUE<br />
This Starbucks-style café combines<br />
good helpings of coffee, milkshakes,<br />
sandwiches, salads and indulgent baked<br />
goods, with free Wi-Fi, a computer<br />
hotspot and laidback vibes. It’s the<br />
perfect place to chill out, refuel and get<br />
on with some work. 42 Lidická, Prague 5,<br />
tel: +420 257 314 277
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Tel: +45 33 12 33 66<br />
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PLANNING YOUR STAY<br />
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GETTING TO THE AIRPORT<br />
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easyJet Airline Company Limited is an Appointed<br />
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OUR<br />
GUIDES<br />
ARE ALL<br />
UPDATED<br />
MONTHLY<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES A-Z<br />
Aberdeen UK 106<br />
Agadir Morocco<br />
Alicante Spain<br />
Almería Spain 108<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Netherlands<br />
NEW Antalya 110<br />
Turkey<br />
Asturias Spain<br />
Athens Greece 112<br />
Barcelona Spain<br />
Bari Italy 114<br />
Basel/Mulhouse/<br />
Freiburg Switzerland<br />
Belfast UK 115<br />
Berlin Germany 116<br />
Biarritz France<br />
Bilbao Spain 118<br />
Birmingham UK<br />
Bodrum Turkey<br />
Bordeaux France 120<br />
Bournemouth UK<br />
Brindisi Italy<br />
Bristol UK 121<br />
Brussels Belgium<br />
Bucharest 122<br />
Romania<br />
Budapest Hungary<br />
Cagliari Italy 124<br />
Casablanca Morocco<br />
Catania Italy<br />
Cologne Germany 126<br />
Copenhagen Denmark<br />
Corfu Greece 127<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio)<br />
France<br />
Corsica (Bastia) France<br />
NEW Crete 128<br />
(Chania) Greece<br />
Crete (Heraklion) Greece<br />
Cyprus (Larnaca)<br />
Cyprus<br />
Cyprus (Paphos) 129<br />
Cyprus<br />
Dalaman Turkey<br />
Doncaster Sheffi eld UK<br />
Dortmund Germany 131<br />
Dubrovnik Croatia<br />
Düsseldorf Germany<br />
Edinburgh UK 133<br />
Faro Portugal<br />
Fuerteventura 134<br />
Spain<br />
Geneva Switzerland<br />
Gibraltar 135<br />
UK Territory<br />
Glasgow UK<br />
Gran Canaria Spain 136<br />
Grenoble France<br />
Hamburg Germany 138<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | A–Z<br />
Helsinki Finland<br />
Hurghada Egypt<br />
Innsbruck Austria 140<br />
Inverness UK<br />
Istanbul Turkey<br />
Jersey UK 141<br />
Krakow Poland<br />
NEW Kos Greece 142<br />
Lamezia Italy<br />
Lanzarote Spain<br />
Lisbon Portugal 144<br />
Liverpool UK<br />
Ljubljana Slovenia 146<br />
London UK<br />
Lyon France 149<br />
Madeira Portugal<br />
Madrid Spain<br />
Majorca Spain 150<br />
Málaga Spain 153<br />
Malta Malta<br />
Manchester UK 155<br />
Marrakech Morocco<br />
Marseille France 156<br />
Milan Italy<br />
Montpellier France 157<br />
Munich Germany<br />
Murcia Spain 158<br />
Mykonos Greece<br />
Nantes France<br />
Naples Italy 161<br />
Mykonos, Greece<br />
Newcastle UK<br />
Nice France<br />
Olbia Italy 162<br />
Palermo Italy<br />
Paris France 163<br />
Pisa Italy 164<br />
Porto Portugal<br />
Prague 166<br />
Czech Republic<br />
Rhodes Greece<br />
Rome Italy 168<br />
Salzburg Austria 169<br />
Santorini Greece<br />
Sharm El Sheikh Egypt<br />
Sofi a Bulgaria 170<br />
Split Croatia<br />
Stockholm Sweden<br />
Tallinn Estonia 171<br />
Tangier Morocco<br />
Tel Aviv Israel<br />
Tenerife South 172<br />
Spain<br />
Thessaloniki Greece<br />
Toulouse France 174<br />
Turin Italy<br />
Valencia Spain 175<br />
Venice Italy<br />
Vienna Austria 176<br />
NEW Zante Greece<br />
Zürich Switzerland<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 105
106 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Aberdeen<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs about £15.<br />
Up to three buses<br />
an hour go to the<br />
city centre from 5.05am<br />
–11.39pm Monday–<br />
Saturday and 10.05am–<br />
9.49pm on Sunday.<br />
Tickets: from £1.40.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
01224 497 867) A fi rm<br />
favourite with students,<br />
The Bobbin is a<br />
traditional pub that also<br />
serves up excellent<br />
food, including steak<br />
and ale pie and full<br />
Scottish breakfasts.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Dusk<br />
(51 Langstane Place,<br />
tel: 01224 594 430)<br />
Dusk cocktail bar offers<br />
a unique drinking<br />
experience – try the<br />
pink cloud cocktail,<br />
which consists of<br />
vanilla vodka, fresh<br />
strawberries and Baileys<br />
Irish cream – lush.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Finnies is<br />
Scotland’s largest<br />
jewellers of diamonds,<br />
wedding and<br />
engagement rings,<br />
watches, clocks and gifts.<br />
This family-run business<br />
has been going for more<br />
than 40 years and is<br />
renowned for its friendly<br />
and personal service<br />
(219–223 George Street,<br />
tel: 01224 636 632).<br />
SEE Connie Fisher<br />
returns as Maria in<br />
the world’s best-loved<br />
musical, The Sound of<br />
Music. Until 17 April,<br />
sing your heart out<br />
to some of the most<br />
memorable songs,<br />
including My Favourite<br />
Things, Do-Re-Mi and<br />
Climb Ev’ry Mountain<br />
(His Majesty’s Theatre,<br />
tel: 0845 270 8200).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sir David Gill, who,<br />
in 1868, took the<br />
fi rst photograph of<br />
the moon, was born<br />
in Aberdeen.<br />
Beverley Tricker<br />
Agadir<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs MAD200.<br />
Route 22 to<br />
Inezgane runs<br />
every 40 minutes.<br />
Tickets: MAD4. From<br />
there take a bus to Agadir.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
LATE & LIVELY O<br />
De L’Ha (12 Complexe<br />
Tawada, Rue Tawada)<br />
This well-decorated<br />
bar doubles as a disco,<br />
providing a chic setting<br />
for an evening of house<br />
and salsa music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Zara has arrived<br />
in Agadir, and though<br />
you can fi nd the chain<br />
all over the world, you<br />
may not fi nd similar<br />
prices. Shop to your<br />
heart’s content, safe in<br />
the knowledge<br />
that you’re getting<br />
a bargain (Marina).<br />
SEE Watch 4x4 jeeps<br />
thunder by as they vie<br />
to win the Argan Trophy.<br />
The event takes place<br />
from 10–11 April with<br />
a circuit through the<br />
Anti-Atlas mountains<br />
(argantrophy.com).<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Nawaabs (33 Summer<br />
Street, tel: 01224 621<br />
800) Specialising in<br />
Indian and Bangladeshi<br />
cuisine, the diverse menu<br />
serves as a culinary tour<br />
of the vast subcontinent,<br />
from lamb dansak to<br />
chicken bhuna.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Square (1 Golden<br />
Square, tel: 01224 646<br />
362) Whether you’re<br />
celebrating a special<br />
occasion, grabbing<br />
a bite to eat before the<br />
theatre or treating your<br />
loved one to a romantic<br />
meal, The Square<br />
won’t disappoint.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Bobbin<br />
(500 King Street, tel:<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 L’Assiette<br />
du Marché (Immeuble<br />
Ifrane III, Avenue Hassan<br />
II) A delightful French<br />
restaurant nestled in the<br />
Battoir area. Excellent<br />
cuisine is prepared with<br />
a hint of the exotic.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Jean<br />
Cocteau (Shem’s<br />
Casino, Boulevard<br />
Mohammed V, tel: 0528<br />
821 111) Jean Cocteau<br />
offers a menu blending<br />
French and Moroccan<br />
cuisine, and overlooks<br />
the gaming room. It may<br />
be a lucky place to dine!<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Captain<br />
Tapas Bar (Marina) In<br />
an idyllic setting on the<br />
waterfront, settle in with<br />
a cool beer and some<br />
tasty tapas and watch<br />
the yachts come and go.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Agadir has the world’s<br />
biggest sardine-fi shing<br />
port. Why not top up<br />
your Omega-3 levels?<br />
Anne Imisliou<br />
ATLANTIC<br />
PALACE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This sumptuous<br />
Moroccan-style hotel<br />
offers the opportunity<br />
to relax in its thalasso<br />
and spa centre.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €116, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
Alicante<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €15–€20.<br />
A direct service<br />
to Benidorm runs<br />
hourly. Tickets: €8.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Ray’s<br />
Fish & Chips<br />
(Calle Derramador,<br />
Benidorm) A homely<br />
long-established venue,<br />
redolent of the aromas<br />
of frying cod and<br />
halibut and hot sizzling<br />
chips. Take away or<br />
eat on the premises,<br />
kitsch salt and vinegar<br />
shakers and ketchup<br />
supplied. The service<br />
is always very friendly<br />
and wine or beer can<br />
be served with your<br />
meal, or a good old<br />
cup of tea.<br />
UP TO €30 Molí Dos<br />
(Avenida de Benidorm,<br />
Finestrat Pueblo)<br />
You’ll fi nd a bubbling<br />
babble of expats in<br />
every corner of this<br />
welcoming, family-run<br />
bar and restaurant,<br />
which is known locally<br />
for its home cooking<br />
and friendly service.<br />
UP TO €50 Oustau<br />
(5 Calle Mayor, Altea<br />
Old Town, tel: 96 584<br />
2078) International<br />
cuisine with a French<br />
sparkle and a fi ne wine<br />
cellar make this venue<br />
one of the top spots<br />
around. The chef’s<br />
pâtés are renowned,<br />
drawing a clientèle<br />
made up of a crosssection<br />
of the lively<br />
in-crowd and in-theknow<br />
oldies. Even<br />
the waiters are cool<br />
and chic.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Casa<br />
Juan-La Fonda<br />
del Recuerdo (251<br />
Carretera Moraira-<br />
Calpe, tel: 96 574<br />
8649) With an<br />
atmosphere similar<br />
to that of an ancient<br />
Spanish inn, you<br />
wouldn’t be surprised<br />
to see Don Quijote<br />
here, snoozing in a<br />
corner with his rotund<br />
sidekick, Sancho<br />
Panza. Exceptional<br />
paellas and charcoalgrilled<br />
meats are<br />
dished up by the<br />
talented owner, Juan,<br />
who will also treat<br />
you to a few Spanish<br />
classics on his guitar to<br />
round off the evening.<br />
Booking is essential.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Penelope’s<br />
(Levante Beach,<br />
Benidorm) Overlooking<br />
the long sandy beaches<br />
of Levante, this is a<br />
cool place to enjoy a<br />
glass of wine or beer<br />
while considering your<br />
nightlife options.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Café<br />
Maracaibo (Avenida<br />
País Valenciano,
108 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Alicante<br />
Spain<br />
Benissa, tel: 96 573<br />
0287) The live jazz jam<br />
session with guitar,<br />
drums and piano<br />
kicks off at 9.30pm.<br />
After listening for a<br />
while, musicians in the<br />
audience with itchy<br />
feet are welcome to<br />
take to the stage.<br />
Don’t forget your<br />
clarinet to show them<br />
how it’s done.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
J Cavanagh’s Irish<br />
Pub (5 Calle Bollerín,<br />
Santiago de la Ribera)<br />
Lively Irish bands<br />
perform here till late.<br />
Enjoy the ballads and<br />
popular traditional<br />
music from 10pm,<br />
then stick around for<br />
a few beers afterwards.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Every Friday is<br />
market day in Alfaz del<br />
Pi. You’ll fi nd it on the<br />
road into town from<br />
the Albir junction on<br />
the N-332. Grab<br />
a cab if need be – you<br />
won’t regret making<br />
the journey. Expect to<br />
fi nd everything from<br />
clothing to local fresh<br />
produce, all at brilliant<br />
bargain prices.<br />
SEE Catholic tradition<br />
in Spain sees that<br />
the fi rst four days<br />
of this month end<br />
the Holy Week, and<br />
are celebrated by<br />
processions with fl oats<br />
borne by masked<br />
penitents. For all<br />
that, it’s a joyful and<br />
colourful occasion<br />
that takes place in<br />
every village and<br />
town all over the<br />
south of Spain.<br />
ESCAPE Head up<br />
into the mountains<br />
behind Benidorm and<br />
explore the nature<br />
reserve of the Puig<br />
Campana, which<br />
boasts the secondhighest<br />
peak<br />
in the province. It’s<br />
only a 25-minute<br />
journey out to the park<br />
and you’ll fi nd plenty of<br />
plant and insect<br />
life indigenous to the<br />
area, with wild orchids<br />
and other exotic<br />
fl owers in abundance.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In keeping with the<br />
Latin lover stereotype,<br />
Spanish men don’t<br />
marry on average until<br />
33.6 years of age.<br />
Danny Collins<br />
ALTEA OLD<br />
TOWN<br />
GO The ancient town<br />
is topped by a stately<br />
18th-century church<br />
square and thronged<br />
with restaurants<br />
serving fi ne food. Take<br />
a few snaps of the<br />
sunset over the lush<br />
blue Mediterranean.<br />
Almería<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €13.<br />
Route 20 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.70.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Martín<br />
Fierro (Carretera de<br />
Ronda, tel: 95 027 6853)<br />
Situated in the old train<br />
station, this Argentinean<br />
restaurant is a meatlover’s<br />
paradise. Beef<br />
is the order of the day<br />
– and the steaks are<br />
second to none.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Mi Casa<br />
Hotel (511 Carretera<br />
N-340, Antas, tel: 95 045<br />
3048) Within this wellknown,<br />
friendly hotel<br />
the divine venue serves<br />
up great Mediterranean<br />
cuisine, including a fi ne<br />
selection of tasty fi sh<br />
dishes, accompanied<br />
by fruity wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Clasijazz<br />
(275 Plaza Puerto Pino)<br />
The local jazz association<br />
puts on concerts every<br />
Friday and Saturday<br />
evenings at this intimate<br />
club which they call<br />
home. Entry price<br />
includes a drink, and<br />
a whole lot of fun.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Klimt<br />
(23 Calle Canónigo<br />
Molina Alonso) This<br />
funky nightclub is<br />
named after the great<br />
Austrian painter, with<br />
copies of his works<br />
placed in prominent<br />
positions. This isn’t<br />
your raucous sort of<br />
club, it plays chilledout<br />
music and has<br />
a relaxed atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Pull and Bear is a<br />
great Spanish classic, in<br />
a similar line to Bershka<br />
and Zara, but it’s not as<br />
commonly known in the<br />
UK. Head down for some<br />
stylish threads, without<br />
worrying that everyone<br />
at home will have the<br />
same outfi t as you<br />
(5 Paseo de Almería,<br />
tel: 95 025 9466).<br />
SEE If you’re in<br />
southern Spain at<br />
this time of year, it<br />
would be diffi cult not<br />
to notice the great<br />
Easter processions and<br />
general hubbub in the<br />
cities. Almería is a fi ne<br />
example of the fi estas,<br />
and you can see the<br />
religious parades at the<br />
beginning of the month.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The coastal hamlet<br />
of San Pedro, in the<br />
Cabo de Gata, was<br />
abandoned by its<br />
inhabitants in the<br />
1960s. The tumbledown<br />
houses are now<br />
lived in by a transient<br />
population of hippies.<br />
David Jones<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Netherlands<br />
DIALLING CODE +31<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €40.<br />
There are seven<br />
trains an hour<br />
to Centraal station.<br />
Tickets: €3.80 single;<br />
€6.40 same-day return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Sal Meijer<br />
(45 Scheldestraat, tel:<br />
020 673 1313) Having<br />
served the civilised folk<br />
of the Rivierenbuurt<br />
district for decades, this<br />
kosher deli is perfect for<br />
salt beef sandwiches, a<br />
morning coffee or just<br />
watching the world go by.<br />
UP TO €30 Helden<br />
(42 Van der Helststraat,<br />
tel: 020 673 332) A chic<br />
but surprisingly cheap<br />
café and bar in the heart<br />
of the trendy De Pijp<br />
district, Helden does<br />
a rather excellent cod<br />
platter with chips served<br />
Amsterdam snackbarstyle<br />
in a paper funnel.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Witteween (256–260<br />
Ceintuurbaan, tel: 020<br />
344 6406) From the<br />
people behind some<br />
of Amsterdam’s most<br />
Spains Fastest Growing Property Portal<br />
www.costafreeads.com<br />
stylish eateries and bars<br />
(Nevy and Vyne), this<br />
old-school brasserie<br />
has been extensively<br />
remodelled. Along with<br />
a marvellous Caesar<br />
salad, it has the longest<br />
Chesterfi eld sofa around<br />
and a glass-fronted<br />
children’s play area.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Bo<br />
Cinq (53–59 Lange<br />
Leidsedwaarstraat, tel:<br />
020 622 0682) Centrally<br />
located near the famous<br />
Leidseplein, but discreet<br />
enough to go unnoticed,<br />
this bar and restaurant is<br />
fast becoming the place<br />
for Amsterdammers<br />
in the know. The crisp,<br />
white tablecloths, lobster<br />
and impeccable service<br />
will tempt you to stay<br />
for hours.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Café de Sluyswacht<br />
(1 Jodenbreestraat, tel:<br />
020 625 7611) Built into<br />
a dinky bridge opposite<br />
the Rembrandt House<br />
Museum, this tiny pub is<br />
picture-postcard perfect.<br />
Sit outside with a beer<br />
and watch the canal<br />
boats drift by or, if you’re<br />
feeling brave, head inside<br />
to witness the Friday<br />
night drinking games of<br />
the local fraternities.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Delicatessen (32<br />
Sumatrastraat) The<br />
newest and possibly the<br />
smallest music venue<br />
in Amsterdam, with a<br />
teeny capacity of 70, this<br />
vibrant little restaurant<br />
has been enlivening<br />
the cultural scene in<br />
the modern residential<br />
district of Zeeburg for<br />
a few months now.
Combine a<br />
with<br />
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110 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Netherlands<br />
Here you’ll fi nd low-key<br />
singer songwriters and<br />
Amsterdam’s lessshouty<br />
pop hopefuls.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Lola’s (23 Kerkstraat,<br />
tel: 020 3204336)<br />
Open until 4am on<br />
Saturdays (that’s<br />
rare for Amsterdam),<br />
Lola’s thrives on being<br />
adaptable to all, well,<br />
for the beautiful at<br />
least. A subterranean<br />
bar and restaurant<br />
in the early evenings,<br />
this place transforms<br />
showgirl-style into a<br />
throbbing house club<br />
come sundown.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Nestled in a back<br />
street in the trendy De<br />
Pijp area, Charlie+Mary<br />
is a concept store<br />
everyone can get<br />
onboard with. Browse<br />
the quirky casual wear<br />
before heading to a cosy<br />
table at the back for<br />
cake and cookies!<br />
(84 Gerard Doustraat).<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
amazing blockbuster<br />
art show From<br />
Matisse to Malevich<br />
at Amsterdam’s<br />
new branch of the<br />
Hermitage Museum.<br />
The massive collection<br />
incorporates<br />
outstanding works<br />
by Matisse, Picasso<br />
plus Dutch favourites<br />
such as Van Dongen<br />
(hermitage.nl).<br />
GO In the north-east of<br />
the city, Amsterdam’s<br />
Artis Zoo (the oldest<br />
in the Netherlands)<br />
comprises some 14<br />
hectares of happy<br />
critters and sea beasts.<br />
One of the prettiest<br />
parks in town, it’s also<br />
a lovely place to buy an<br />
ice cream (artis.nl).<br />
ESCAPE Get on your<br />
bike and cycle the scenic<br />
40-minute journey to<br />
Weesp, a charming town<br />
complete with three<br />
windmills that’s home<br />
to the famous Van<br />
Houten chocolate<br />
brand, distinctive<br />
Weesper porcelain and<br />
delicious Weesper Mop<br />
almond cookies.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Amsterdam becomes<br />
a sea of orange on 29<br />
April, when thousands<br />
of decked-out revellers<br />
descend on the city to<br />
celebrate Queen’s Day.<br />
Mark Smith<br />
HOTEL<br />
ARENA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This hotel boasts a<br />
sharp design and<br />
unique atmosphere,<br />
with warm touches.<br />
It feels like home<br />
away from home.<br />
From €109, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Antalya<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY Lira (YTL)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs YTL42.<br />
Havas Bus runs<br />
a service to<br />
the centre every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: YTL9.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Big Man<br />
Lara (Eski Lara Yolu,<br />
Falezler Uzeri, tel: 0242<br />
316 138) Wow-factor<br />
and stunning views<br />
across the sea to the<br />
Beydagı Mountains are<br />
served up here, along<br />
with fresh and varied<br />
international fare. It’s<br />
well-worth allowing<br />
enough time to chill and<br />
take in the vistas.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Marina<br />
Restaurant (15<br />
Mermerli Sokak, tel:<br />
0242 247 5490)<br />
Gourmet dining set in<br />
the Kaleiçi area with<br />
Turkish specialities and<br />
a large, international<br />
menu, including caviar<br />
and Champagne for<br />
a special evening. Try<br />
the quail, and follow<br />
with a beef fi llet and<br />
a glass of good wine<br />
by the poolside.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Lounge<br />
Bar (Hillside Su Hotel,<br />
Konyaaltı, tel: 0242<br />
249 0700) In chic,<br />
modern surroundings,<br />
DJs create a romantic<br />
mood. There’s also live<br />
sax three days a week.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Jolly Joker Pub (10B<br />
Lider Plaza, tel: 0242<br />
316 7515) Within this<br />
crowded, excitable<br />
atmosphere, soft rock<br />
is blasted out live every<br />
night. The lively crowd<br />
stay around until 3am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Yenigün,<br />
makes fi ne and very<br />
interesting local jams<br />
and preserves: jars of<br />
aubergine, bergamot,<br />
watermelon and rose<br />
jam sit beside more<br />
common favourites such<br />
as strawberry, grapefruit<br />
and orange marmalade<br />
(5 Cumhuriyet Caddesi,<br />
Antalya Merkez, tel:<br />
0242 241 1343).<br />
GO Visit the Suna-Inan<br />
Kıraç Kaleiçi Museum<br />
or the Yivli Minaret and<br />
Ulu Mosque, or the<br />
Iskele Mescidi near the<br />
harbour, in the Old City<br />
of Kaleiçi within Antalya.<br />
Fishermen offer boat<br />
trips to view waterfalls<br />
and other features along<br />
the beautiful coast.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The city walls that<br />
surrounded Old Antalya,<br />
the Kaleiçi, survived<br />
until the 1930s, when<br />
they were demolished<br />
to allow better air<br />
circulation during<br />
summer months.<br />
Jon Stigner<br />
Asturias<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi to Oviedo<br />
costs about €53, Gijón<br />
€45 and Avilés €23.<br />
The Express bus<br />
runs hourly from<br />
6am–10pm to Oviedo<br />
and Gijón. Tickets:<br />
€6.15. There are less<br />
frequent buses to Avilés<br />
(alsa.es). Tickets: €1.30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Llambar<br />
(30 Galiana, tel: 984<br />
832 348) Try delicious<br />
fusion cuisine tapas in<br />
this smart new bistro<br />
in the atmospheric old<br />
part of town, just off<br />
the Plaza Mayor.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Las Carolinas (Edifi cio<br />
Talasoponiente, Playa<br />
de Poniente, tel: 984<br />
491 348) Relax over<br />
a calming sea view in<br />
this modern restaurant<br />
housed in Gijón’s spa.<br />
Paella and rice dishes<br />
are the specialities,<br />
although there’s<br />
lobster and crab for<br />
those wanting to push<br />
the boat out a little on<br />
a special occasion.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Danny’s<br />
Jazz Café (11–13 Calle<br />
de la Luna, Oviedo)<br />
The jazz may not be<br />
live but it’s still good,<br />
and there’s a cosy<br />
atmosphere and fun<br />
crowd in this central bar.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kavala Pub (2 Jacobo<br />
Olañeta) Rub shoulders<br />
with the locals in this<br />
new downtown club<br />
just off the beach.<br />
A happy-go-lucky<br />
fruity cocktail-drinking<br />
crew dance until the<br />
early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A small, stylish<br />
shop near the harbour,<br />
Astvres displays<br />
Asturian craft products<br />
with panache. Pottery,<br />
jewellery and leather<br />
goods are all on sale<br />
(8 Trinidad, Gijón, tel:<br />
984 295 106).<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
Easter processions in<br />
the region’s three main<br />
cities. Easter Monday<br />
in Avilés is especially<br />
fun with its Fiesta del<br />
Bollu, which sees the<br />
locals eating their bollu<br />
(Easter buns) alfresco<br />
as the processions<br />
fl o a t s g o by.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Asturias is home<br />
to the endangered<br />
urogallo bird, part of<br />
the grouse family. The<br />
species is in decline<br />
not only because of<br />
deforestation: ironically,<br />
despite a powerful<br />
take-off, they are not<br />
good fl iers and often die<br />
fl ying into tree trunks.<br />
Karen Thomas
•<br />
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BANK ACCOUNT<br />
IN SHANGHAI<br />
TAX EFFICIENT<br />
DISCRETE<br />
INVEST DIRECTLY IN<br />
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For more information:<br />
Anil@stargroup.net.cn • Tel: +44 7740 874815
112 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Athens<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
The E95 express<br />
bus leaves every<br />
15–50 minutes, making<br />
a number of stops on<br />
the way to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €3.20.<br />
Proastiako and<br />
Metro line trains<br />
service the city. Tickets:<br />
€6 single; €10 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Ilisos<br />
(52 Michalakopoulou<br />
Street, Ilisia, tel: 210<br />
724 4545) A friendly<br />
24-hour eatery, newly<br />
arrived in Athens, with<br />
a varied and reasonably<br />
priced menu that also<br />
includes grilled<br />
meats and soups.<br />
UP TO €30 Dafni<br />
(86 M Alexandrou,<br />
Bournazi, tel: 210 577<br />
3721) This taverna<br />
puts a modern twist<br />
on tradition and is<br />
always busy, so book<br />
in advance or be<br />
prepared to wait.<br />
UP TO €50 Baccara<br />
(56 Agiou Konstantinou<br />
Street, Maroussi, tel:<br />
210 651 5521) The<br />
main attraction here<br />
is the live band that<br />
spices up the evening<br />
with up-tempo jazz<br />
pieces wowing the<br />
guests. The menu is<br />
a little limited, revolving<br />
mainly around pasta<br />
and risotto.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Funky Gourmet<br />
(13 Paramythias<br />
Street & Salaminos,<br />
Keramikos, tel: 210<br />
524 2727) Chefs<br />
Georgianna Hiliadaki<br />
and Nikos Roussos<br />
set up their ultraexclusive<br />
restaurant<br />
in 2008, choosing a<br />
charming neoclassical<br />
townhouse in<br />
Keramikos. They<br />
provide guests with<br />
private cheffi ng events<br />
based on the most<br />
advanced culinary<br />
techniques, specially<br />
designed for each<br />
evening or occasion.<br />
Varoulko (80 Piraios<br />
Street, Keramikos,<br />
tel: 210 522 8400)<br />
Michelin-starred<br />
chef Lefteris Lazarou<br />
performs culinary<br />
miracles, unlocking the<br />
secrets of foodstuffs<br />
often overlooked by<br />
high gastronomy. His<br />
restaurant remains<br />
well-appointed but<br />
relaxed in tone and now<br />
also features a rooftop<br />
terrace with a view of<br />
the Acropolis.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Yades<br />
(Attiko Alsos Park,<br />
Galatsi, tel: 210 647<br />
0936) A great setting<br />
for a coffee or a light<br />
bite, with huge plate-<br />
glass windows that<br />
look out onto the Attiko<br />
Alsos Park and offer<br />
sweeping views<br />
of Mount Hymettus<br />
and east Athens.<br />
LIVE MUSIC An Club<br />
(13–15 Solomou Street,<br />
Exarhia, tel: 210 330<br />
5056) This place is<br />
underground, literally<br />
and metaphorically.<br />
The more-thanlegendary<br />
club hosts<br />
mainly alternative and<br />
indie rock bands.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Frog (240 Mesogeion<br />
Avenue, Holargos, tel:<br />
210 654 9582) An<br />
all-day venue that also<br />
opens for coffee and<br />
lunch but then picks<br />
up the tempo in the<br />
evening to become<br />
one of the city’s<br />
liveliest nightclubs<br />
with a great selection<br />
of cocktails.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Combine a<br />
shopping trip with<br />
a seaside promenade<br />
by visiting the upmarket<br />
coastal suburb<br />
of Glyfada, which<br />
boasts some of the<br />
city’s smartest and<br />
most varied shopping<br />
high streets, catering<br />
to the well-heeled<br />
suburbanites of southeast<br />
Athens.<br />
SEE The Herakleidon<br />
Experience in Visual<br />
Arts Museum is hosting<br />
an exhibition featuring<br />
the entire range of<br />
74 bronze sculptures<br />
created by Edgar<br />
Degas in The Complete<br />
Sculptures of Edgar<br />
Degas exhibit until 25<br />
April (16 Herakleidon<br />
Street, Thissio,<br />
tel: 210 346 1981).<br />
GO Give yourself a<br />
major adrenaline boost<br />
by visiting Allou Fun<br />
Park, Athens’ largest<br />
amusement and theme<br />
park. New rides include<br />
the Star Flyer, that<br />
takes things onto a<br />
whole new level for all<br />
the family, while old<br />
favourites include Free<br />
Fall, Crazy Mouse or<br />
the more sedate Ferris<br />
Wheel, which gives<br />
you splendid views of<br />
the city. The park is<br />
situated in Rendi,<br />
an Athens district<br />
near Piraeus, on<br />
a block between<br />
the Athens-Lamia<br />
national highway,<br />
Petrou Ralli Street and<br />
Thivon Avenue.<br />
ESCAPE April is a<br />
great time of year to<br />
visit the highlands of<br />
Corinth, which include<br />
villages such as Trikala<br />
and the countryside<br />
around Lake Stymfalia<br />
and Lake Feneos. The<br />
area is just a couple<br />
of hours drive from<br />
Athens, in the northern<br />
Peloponnese, and is<br />
ravishing during spring.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Parthenon,<br />
considered the<br />
crowning achievement<br />
of ancient Greek<br />
architecture, has hardly<br />
any straight lines in<br />
the entire building.<br />
The architects wanted<br />
the building to appear<br />
graceful, and corrected<br />
optical illusions so<br />
most of its lines are<br />
concave or convex.<br />
Eva Webster<br />
Barcelona<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
around €20–€30.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
heads to Plaça<br />
Catalunya. Tickets: €5.<br />
Trains service the<br />
Sants Estació.<br />
Tickets: €2.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Bó del<br />
B (14 Fusteria) It may<br />
look like a run-of-themill<br />
shawarma joint,<br />
but order instead<br />
a bin lid-sized plate<br />
of grilled chicken,<br />
salad and rice and<br />
you’ll still have a few<br />
coppers left over from<br />
your €5 note.<br />
UP TO €50 Dans<br />
le Noir (10 Passieg<br />
Picasso, tel: 93 268<br />
7017) A branch of this<br />
popular restaurant<br />
has now opened in<br />
Barcelona. Dining<br />
on duck breast and<br />
asparagus chips in<br />
the pitch dark is an<br />
awesome experience,<br />
so book one of the<br />
twice-nightly sittings<br />
well in advance.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Bravo<br />
24 (1 Placa de la Rosa<br />
dels Vents, tel: 93 295<br />
2636) This gourmet<br />
restaurant at the<br />
stunning W Hotel is<br />
yet another venture<br />
from the city’s top chef,<br />
Carles Abellán. Don’t<br />
come expecting gastro<br />
trickery; the emphasis<br />
here is on market-fresh<br />
cuisine and traditional<br />
Mediterranean<br />
methods – dishes that<br />
any Spanish mother<br />
would be proud to<br />
call her own.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY El Jabali<br />
de Ronda (15 Ronda<br />
Sant Pau, tel: 93 441<br />
1082) If succulent<br />
Serrano ham is your<br />
thing, head to this<br />
neigbourhood bar,<br />
which only serves the<br />
best. You’ll also fi nd<br />
a good selection<br />
of local wines and<br />
simple tapas.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
L’Auditori (150 Lepant,<br />
tel: 93 247 9300)<br />
UP TO<br />
€30<br />
Komomoto (25<br />
Princesa, tel: 93<br />
315 2504) You may<br />
never have heard of<br />
Japanese-Peruvian<br />
cuisine, but try it in this<br />
new eatery and you’ll<br />
be hooked on the<br />
zingy lemon fl avours.
A microcosm<br />
of endless choices...<br />
A 5-star deluxe and luxurious resort complex located<br />
on a private peninsula and surrounded by a luscious<br />
Botanical Garden of 167.000m2 captivates your senses<br />
with its majestic Aegean views.<br />
For those who seek to combine the beauty of the<br />
Greek Islands with the utmost of luxury, this resort<br />
complex offers 4 different hotels/concepts with various<br />
types of accommodation, from family bungalows to<br />
private pool-villas.<br />
Another world for our young guests is revealed inside<br />
the resort. The Capsis Minoan Amusement Park, the<br />
only one in Greece, features games<br />
and activities based on the Greek<br />
myths and combines fun and<br />
education with interactive<br />
games.<br />
Aghia Pelaghia, 71500 Heraklion<br />
Crete - Greece<br />
Reservations: T +30 210 6149563<br />
E reservation@capsis.gr<br />
Τake<br />
advantage<br />
of our<br />
SPECIAL<br />
OFFERS
114 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Barcelona<br />
Spain<br />
Barcelona’s premier<br />
live music venue has<br />
faultless acoustics<br />
and a diverse range<br />
of acts, from jazz to<br />
fl amenco and classical.<br />
The fi nest Spanish and<br />
international singers<br />
grace the stage, so<br />
book ahead for a night<br />
you won’t forget.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Stinger (338 Còrsega)<br />
This old-school<br />
ballroom has seen<br />
many functions over<br />
the decades and<br />
seems to have come<br />
the full tilt with this<br />
new cocktail bar that<br />
attracts the coolerthan-cool<br />
set from<br />
neighbouring Gràcia.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP With sunny<br />
days appearing at last,<br />
grab some picnic fare<br />
at Sant Carles grocery<br />
store before heading<br />
to Barceloneta beach.<br />
This scrummy shop<br />
sells gourmet products,<br />
deli delights and homecooked<br />
dishes to take<br />
away (13 Sant Carles,<br />
tel: 93 221 9581).<br />
SEE The celebration<br />
of Sant Jordi, on 23<br />
April, is the most<br />
magical day in<br />
Barcelona. Catalonia’s<br />
patron saint is<br />
honoured by the<br />
Tel +49 761 387 87-0<br />
www.roter-baeren.de<br />
setting up of rose stalls<br />
and book stalls all over<br />
the city. Each man buys<br />
a red rose for the<br />
woman in his life – and<br />
the woman returns the<br />
gesture with a book.<br />
GO What better time<br />
than spring to visit<br />
the city’s parks? The<br />
Parc del Castell de<br />
l’Oreneta is great for<br />
children, with donkey<br />
and miniature train<br />
rides, picnic facilities<br />
and wide expanses<br />
of pine forest. Take<br />
bus 66 from central<br />
Plaça Catalunya.<br />
ESCAPE One of<br />
Catalonia’s most<br />
charming architectural<br />
oddities lies a short<br />
distance south of<br />
Barcelona, at Garraf.<br />
A long row of pretty<br />
green and white beach<br />
shacks paint a slice of<br />
the Riviera in Spain.<br />
Trains run every half<br />
an hour from Sants<br />
station, and the journey<br />
takes around 45<br />
minutes. It’s defi nitely<br />
worth a day trip and<br />
will make you feel like<br />
you’re miles away.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Everyone knows<br />
about modernist<br />
masterpieces La<br />
Sagrada Familia<br />
and the Palau de la<br />
Música, but modernist<br />
works pop up in more<br />
surprising locations,<br />
too. Check out the<br />
cemeteries in Montjuïc<br />
and Poblenou, where<br />
elaborate tombs<br />
and sepulchres were<br />
built by renowned<br />
architects.<br />
Suzanne Wales<br />
Bari<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Route 16 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Pizzeria<br />
Bari Napoli (187 Via<br />
Piccinni, tel: 080 990<br />
5452) A truly top-rate<br />
pizzeria, act all Italiano<br />
by taking your time as<br />
you eat. It would be hard<br />
not to fi nd something to<br />
your liking here.<br />
HOTEL<br />
SALSELLO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Located by the sea in<br />
the pleasant town of<br />
Bisceglie, this hotel has<br />
its own private beach<br />
and an outdoor pool.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €89, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Rococò<br />
(18 Vico Ciaia, tel: 080<br />
4834 754) This hotel<br />
is set inside a beautiful<br />
old building and the<br />
restaurant is superb.<br />
After dinner retire to the<br />
piano bar for a cocktail.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Mudù (55<br />
Vittorio Emanuele II)<br />
Small and intimate, this<br />
bar is on one of Bari’s<br />
oldest roads and is the<br />
place to stop for an icy<br />
cold soft drink.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Mavù<br />
Club (Strada Provinciale<br />
Da Locorotondo, Verso<br />
Cisternino) Dance around<br />
the lemon trees or chill<br />
out on the sofas upstairs.<br />
It can often be found<br />
hosting big-name DJs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Go to the Borgo<br />
Murattiano – this old<br />
building is one of the<br />
best places to shop in<br />
Bari and hosts many of<br />
the best brands on offer<br />
in Italy (Via Argiro).<br />
GO Foggia, 90 minutes<br />
from Bari, celebrates<br />
the feast of Saint George<br />
and has an exciting ox<br />
and cart race. The town<br />
erupts into celebration<br />
on 23 April.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bari was the only city to<br />
suffer chemical warfare<br />
during World War II.<br />
An Allied ship carrying<br />
mustard gas was<br />
bombed in the harbour<br />
causing many deaths.<br />
Max Keep<br />
DOMINA HOTEL BARI<br />
SEE OUR ADVERT ON PAGE 106<br />
Basel/<br />
Mulhouse/<br />
Freiburg<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Basel is<br />
about CHF40 and<br />
Mulhouse €40.<br />
Route 50 takes<br />
you to Basel’s<br />
main train station.<br />
Tickets: CHF3.80.<br />
In France, shuttles<br />
go to the station in<br />
Saint-Louis for trains to<br />
Mulhouse. Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Damas<br />
Café (23 Steinenberg,<br />
Basel, tel: 06 1281<br />
5181) This Palestinian<br />
place, across from the<br />
Stadtcasino, outshines<br />
all the other Middle<br />
Eastern restaurants on<br />
the same street. Don’t<br />
miss the terrifi cally<br />
tasty baba ghanoush<br />
(aubergine dip).<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Winstub la Petite<br />
Venise (4 Rue de la<br />
Poissonnerie, Colmar,<br />
tel: 03 8941 7259)<br />
The only downside at<br />
this tiny gem – where<br />
you can sample some<br />
great Alsatian wines<br />
and delicious food<br />
in Colmar’s “Little<br />
Venice” – is that it’s<br />
diffi cult to get a table<br />
without a reservation.<br />
UP TO €50 Zum<br />
Sauwadala (13 Rue de<br />
I’Arsenal, Mulhouse,<br />
tel: 03 8945 1819)<br />
Traditional cuisine<br />
at its best. Try the<br />
Alsatian foie gras<br />
or braised rabbit<br />
washed down with<br />
a local white wine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Schloss Binningen<br />
(5 Schlossgasse,<br />
Binningen, tel: 06 1425<br />
6000) This romantic<br />
restaurant is housed<br />
in a small castle<br />
on the outskirts of<br />
Basel. Enjoy expertly<br />
prepared French<br />
cuisine and select<br />
wines in sophisticated,<br />
wood-panelled dining<br />
rooms. If the weather<br />
is fi ne you can dine<br />
on the terrace<br />
surrounded by<br />
greenery. Open<br />
Tuesdays–Saturdays.<br />
Reservations<br />
recommended.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Dom du<br />
Murphy’s (48 Grand<br />
Rue, Colmar, tel: 03<br />
8949 3061) An Irish<br />
pub on the outside<br />
but with a distinct<br />
French feeling on the<br />
inside, Murphy’s is<br />
a great place to stop<br />
for a pint on the way<br />
from the Old Town to<br />
Petite Venise.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Kaserne (1B<br />
Klybeckstrasse,<br />
tel: 06 1666 6000)<br />
OLDEST INN IN GERMANY<br />
SINCE 1120<br />
Our hotel is right in the heart of Freiburg’s idyllic<br />
historic centre. With its well known romantic<br />
restaurant overlooking the Schwabentor and the<br />
famous cathedral, you couldn’t ask for more…
Hear some of the<br />
best alternative and<br />
indie bands from<br />
Switzerland and<br />
further afi eld at this<br />
great venue, whose<br />
packed programme<br />
also boasts theatre<br />
and dance events.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bar du Nord (200<br />
Schwarzwaldallee,<br />
Basel, tel: 06 1683<br />
1313) Eclectic<br />
surroundings give<br />
this bar the edge on<br />
other local nightspots.<br />
Housed in the old<br />
buffet canteen at the<br />
German train station,<br />
it still has many of the<br />
original fi ttings, which<br />
locals dance around till<br />
the early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Basel<br />
Fine Art Museum’s<br />
recently expanded<br />
shop sells not only the<br />
city’s best collection<br />
of art books, but also<br />
lots of hip gifts, games<br />
and jewellery to<br />
take home (16 St<br />
Alban Graben).<br />
SEE The<br />
Kunstmuseum’s<br />
exhibition of Mexico’s<br />
leading contemporary<br />
artist, Gabriel Orozco,<br />
opens on 18 April<br />
and will display<br />
installations, welldefi<br />
ned sculptures,<br />
photographs and<br />
paintings by the artist.<br />
Look out for<br />
the Citroën DS that<br />
has been sliced<br />
lengthwise down<br />
the middle and<br />
reassembled as a<br />
one-seater (kunst<br />
museumbasel.ch).<br />
driver, S. Loeb<br />
SEE The<br />
Puppenhausmuseum<br />
has great exhibits<br />
throughout the month<br />
of toys, dolls, teddy<br />
bears and intricate<br />
toy houses. It’s fun<br />
for the whole family<br />
– little kids, big kids<br />
and collectors are<br />
all sure to have a<br />
fantastic time (1<br />
Steinenvorstadt,<br />
tel: 06 1225 9595).<br />
GO The best views<br />
of Basel’s Old Town<br />
are to be had only<br />
by the brave souls<br />
willing to climb the<br />
narrow, winding stairs<br />
up Basel’s cathedral<br />
towers. The current<br />
14th-century building<br />
stands on the site<br />
of the earlier one<br />
destroyed in the<br />
massive 1356 Basel<br />
earthquake.<br />
ESCAPE Less than<br />
two hours from Basel,<br />
set on Lake Geneva,<br />
Lausanne is the<br />
world’s offi cial Olympic<br />
Capital, and the site of<br />
the headquarters<br />
of the IOC as well as<br />
the Olympic Museum.<br />
For non-sporting<br />
types, the spectacular<br />
setting and the nearby<br />
wine region defi nitely<br />
make the area well<br />
worth a visit.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 1356, up to 40<br />
medieval castles<br />
around Basel were<br />
destroyed by the<br />
strongest earthquake<br />
to strike central<br />
Europe in recorded<br />
history. The city itself<br />
was destroyed by fi re.<br />
Richard Harvell<br />
D. Szuster<br />
Belfast<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
BELFAST INT.<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £25.<br />
Translink run an<br />
Airbus service to<br />
the centre. Tickets: £7<br />
single; £10 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
CITY AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £8.<br />
Translink runs an<br />
Airbus service to<br />
the city centre. Tickets:<br />
£2 single; £3 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Ooodles<br />
(46 Botanic Avenue)<br />
Located on bustling<br />
Botanic Avenue, this<br />
quick and easy noodle<br />
bar is the perfect spot<br />
for an inexpensive<br />
lunch or dinner. The<br />
food is delicious and<br />
the service effi cient<br />
– you’ll be in and out<br />
within an hour.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Apartment<br />
(2 Donegall Square<br />
West, tel: 028 9050<br />
9777) Its stunning<br />
views of the City Hall<br />
and fantastic food<br />
combine to make<br />
Apartment one of<br />
the busiest and best<br />
restaurants in Belfast.<br />
UP TO €50 Ivory<br />
(3rd Floor, House Of<br />
Fraser, Victoria Square<br />
Shopping Centre,<br />
tel: 028 9032 4577)<br />
Housed on the top<br />
fl oor of this<br />
department store,<br />
Ivory boasts fantastic<br />
views of the city from<br />
its roof terrace. The<br />
food is delicious and<br />
perfect for either<br />
lunch or dinner with<br />
someone special.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Deanes<br />
at Queen’s (1 College<br />
Gardens, tel: 028<br />
9038 2111) Owned by<br />
celebrity chef Michael<br />
Deane, this former<br />
university common<br />
room is now one of<br />
the best restaurants<br />
in town. Enjoy a long<br />
dinner and then<br />
meander round the<br />
corner to take in a play<br />
at the Lyric Theatre.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY White’s<br />
Tavern (2–4 Winecellar<br />
Entry, tel: 028 9024<br />
3080) White’s is one<br />
of the oldest bars<br />
in Belfast and is a<br />
fantastic place for a<br />
contemplative beer.<br />
It serves a great pint<br />
of Guinness and also<br />
has regular thigh<br />
slapping Irish<br />
music sessions.<br />
LIVE MUSIC John<br />
Hewitt Bar (51<br />
Donegall Street, tel:<br />
028 9023 3768) Widely<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 115<br />
regarded as one of<br />
the best pubs around,<br />
The John Hewitt has<br />
a great selection of<br />
international beers<br />
and live music at<br />
the weekend.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Rain (10–14 Tomb<br />
Street, tel: 028 9032<br />
7308) Situated next to<br />
the main Post Offi ce<br />
sorting offi ce, this club<br />
has been one of the<br />
busiest in town since<br />
getting a makeover<br />
a year or so ago. You<br />
may have to queue at<br />
weekends but once<br />
you get inside the<br />
atmosphere will more<br />
than make up for it.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you are in<br />
the market for a<br />
unique Irish-made gift<br />
with a quirky twist,<br />
then look no further<br />
than Space Craft.<br />
This shop showcases<br />
the work of some of<br />
Northern Ireland’s top<br />
artists and designers,<br />
something different<br />
PARK INN<br />
BELFAST<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Perfectly situated with<br />
a swish restaurant<br />
and bar, the Park Inn<br />
is the ideal base for<br />
a break in Belfast.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €59, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Southern Alsace Tourist Board - FRANCE, bordering CH & D<br />
WWW.TOURISME68.COM<br />
to take the folks back<br />
home (9B The Fountain<br />
Centre, College Street).<br />
SEE Belfast Film<br />
Festival hits town<br />
from 15–30 April. With<br />
hundreds of great fi lms<br />
in dozens of venues,<br />
it’s well worth checking<br />
out the programme<br />
(belfastfi lm<br />
festival.org).<br />
GO On a warm<br />
spring day one of the<br />
best places to be is<br />
Botanic Avenue, where<br />
you’ll fi nd several<br />
cafés with outside<br />
seating – perfect for<br />
people-watching. Café<br />
Clements and Café<br />
Renoir are particular<br />
favourites of the<br />
locals who head here<br />
for a stroll.<br />
ESCAPE Londonderry,<br />
Northern Ireland’s<br />
second city, has really<br />
got its act together<br />
over the last few years<br />
and is now one of<br />
the must-see tourist<br />
destinations for this<br />
part of the country. Go<br />
for a walk along the<br />
city walls and then<br />
check out the<br />
magnifi cent Guild Hall.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Nobel Prize has<br />
been won by two Belfast<br />
residents – one is the<br />
poet Seamus Heaney,<br />
the other is David<br />
Trimble, the ex-leader<br />
of the Ulster Unionist<br />
Party, who shared the<br />
Nobel Peace Prize with<br />
John Hume.<br />
Chris Sherry/<br />
Ulster Tatler<br />
Social Magazine<br />
ALL ABOUT CARS in MULHOUSE - ALSACE!<br />
Automobile Festival 1-4 July<br />
World Rally Championship 1-3 October
116 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Berlin<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
Express route<br />
SXF1 runs from<br />
Terminal A to Berlin<br />
Südkreuz. Tickets: €6.<br />
The S-Bahn train<br />
leaves from the<br />
airport. Tickets: €2.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Maria<br />
Peligro (81 Skalitzer<br />
Strasse) Open since<br />
January, this little<br />
café-bar mixes a Berlin<br />
underground vibe with<br />
some real-deal Mexican<br />
grub – one-of-a-kind<br />
in Berlin, if not Europe.<br />
A bonus: cold Mexican<br />
beers served with lime.<br />
UP TO €30 Die<br />
Ständige Vertretung<br />
(8 Schiffbauerdamm,<br />
tel: 030 282 3965)<br />
This busy outpost<br />
of Rhineland culture<br />
moved to these<br />
premises with the<br />
German Parliament<br />
a decade ago, and<br />
continues to be popular<br />
with power brokers.<br />
Dig into delicious<br />
Flammkuchen,<br />
a German pizza with<br />
toppings as varied<br />
as apple and black<br />
pudding. Try a smooth<br />
Kölsch beer with it.<br />
UP TO €50 Tin Tin<br />
(39–40 Paul-Linke-<br />
Ufer, tel: 030 4882<br />
6894) Stark, grey<br />
interior design, stylish<br />
lighting, minimal beats<br />
on the sound system<br />
– this restaurant on<br />
the Landwehrkanal<br />
has close ties to the<br />
famous techno club<br />
Berghain. The strippeddown<br />
menu highlights<br />
simple, well-made<br />
dishes with a Turkish-<br />
Mediterranean touch<br />
and a dash of creativity.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Borchardt (47<br />
Französische Strasse,<br />
tel: 030 8188 6262)<br />
It’s impossible to<br />
dine in this spacious,<br />
classy brasserie<br />
without bumping into<br />
one German celeb or<br />
another. Impeccable<br />
service, great<br />
continental cuisine and<br />
an always animated<br />
social scene, make this<br />
venue unforgettable.<br />
Grill Royal (105B<br />
Friedrichstrasse, Mitte,<br />
tel: 030 2887 9288)<br />
Founded by an art<br />
dealer, the up-market<br />
steakhouse Grill Royal<br />
is the place for Berlin’s<br />
arty elite to be seen.<br />
The design is exquisite,<br />
the diners enviably<br />
attractive and the<br />
steaks divine. Bookings<br />
are essential.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cream<br />
(6 Schlesische Strasse,<br />
tel: 030 610 74980)<br />
Smack in the middle<br />
of one of Berlin’s most<br />
happening nightlife<br />
strips, the expansive<br />
Cream is nice for a<br />
mellow evening coffee<br />
or cocktail before<br />
moving on to one of<br />
the area’s many clubs.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
West Germany<br />
(133 Skalitzer Strasse)<br />
This scrappy little<br />
venue in the heart<br />
of Kreuzberg hosts<br />
all sorts of indie,<br />
underground bands<br />
and other assorted live<br />
acts – for a taste of the<br />
über-trendy Berlin you<br />
came in search of.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kleine Reise<br />
(8 Spreewaldplatz)<br />
A charming old<br />
bathhouse turned<br />
bar by day, basement<br />
nightclub by night.<br />
The Irish-run club<br />
aims to be a haven<br />
for eclectic electronic<br />
music lovers looking<br />
for a relaxed and<br />
fun-loving houseparty<br />
atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Treasures of<br />
the Aga Khan Museum<br />
exhibition brings an<br />
amazing collection of<br />
Islamic art to Germany<br />
for the fi rst time. About<br />
200 masterpieces<br />
document 1000 years<br />
of Persian, Arab and<br />
Central Asian culture.<br />
Held throughout the<br />
month in the Martin-<br />
Gropius-Bau Museum (7<br />
Niederkirchnerstrasse,<br />
Kreuzberg, berliner<br />
festspiele.de).<br />
GO Savignyplatz is<br />
one of west Berlin’s<br />
more pleasant squares,<br />
which is lined with<br />
restaurants, cafés<br />
and shops – mostly<br />
catering to an older,<br />
more upscale clientèle<br />
than you’ll fi nd in<br />
the eastern parts<br />
of the city.<br />
ESCAPE Germany’s<br />
second largest city,<br />
Hamburg, is just 90<br />
minutes outside of<br />
Berlin by high-speed<br />
rail. The lively port has<br />
plenty of shopping,<br />
culture and raucous<br />
nightlife to spend a full<br />
day there and stay over<br />
in a trendy hotel. Check<br />
out the new harbour<br />
redevelopment at<br />
HafenCity.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THE MOST FAMOUS<br />
IRISH PUB IN BERLIN<br />
DIALOGUE<br />
BOOKSHOP<br />
SHOP This new store<br />
nestled in The T Room<br />
café offers an intimate<br />
take on Englishlanguage<br />
literature in<br />
Berlin, with a handpicked<br />
selection<br />
and regular events<br />
(27 Christinenstrasse).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
According to urban<br />
legend, the red marble<br />
in the Mohrenstrasse<br />
underground station<br />
near Potsdamer Platz<br />
was taken from<br />
the ruins of Hitler’s<br />
destroyed former<br />
chancellery when<br />
the war ended.<br />
exberliner.com<br />
Biarritz<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €13.<br />
The STAB runs<br />
hourly from<br />
7.30am–7.30pm.<br />
Tickets: €1.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le<br />
Bistrot des Halles<br />
(1 Rue du Centre,<br />
tel: 05 5924 2122) A<br />
popular restaurant<br />
serving simple local<br />
dishes made with fresh<br />
produce. Specialities<br />
include prawns, sea bass<br />
and succulent steaks.<br />
EXCLUSIVE L’Instant<br />
(4 Rue du Port Vieux,<br />
tel: 05 5924 8465) A<br />
classy restaurant with<br />
minimalist décor, where<br />
the menu changes every<br />
month but the quality is<br />
guaranteed. Traditional<br />
dishes with a modern<br />
touch are served by<br />
English-speaking<br />
waiters, happy to guide<br />
you through the menu.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Côte<br />
Vestiaire (27 Rue<br />
Gambetta, tel: 05 4764<br />
8214) An unpretentious<br />
spit-and-sawdust bar<br />
where the walls are<br />
adorned with rugby<br />
memorabilia and<br />
there’s always a lively<br />
local crowd.<br />
LATE & LIVELY The<br />
Come Back (4 Rue<br />
Helder, tel: 05 5924<br />
2605) Tucked away<br />
near Place Georges-<br />
Clemenceau, The Come<br />
Back is one of Biarritz’s<br />
most popular gay and<br />
lesbian bars, and boy<br />
does it know how to<br />
throw a party. Open<br />
every night till 3am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP L’Artisan du<br />
Savon is a delightful<br />
little shop selling a<br />
range of exquisite<br />
handmade soaps at<br />
affordable prices that<br />
would make great<br />
presents for the folks<br />
back home (12 Rue<br />
de Mazagran).<br />
GO Now that the sun<br />
is shining, it’s time to<br />
get your body looking<br />
summer-tastic with a<br />
pampering session at<br />
one of the town’s spas.<br />
The most luxurious<br />
is the Hotel du Palais’<br />
prize-winning fi ve-fl oor<br />
spa (hotel-du-palais.<br />
com). Or there’s the<br />
more basic, but hugely<br />
indulgent, Thermes<br />
Marins, where a half-day<br />
pass costs less than<br />
€20 (Rue de Madrid).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In the Middle Ages,<br />
Biarritz’s history was<br />
a whale of a tale: it<br />
was a major port for<br />
whaling ships.<br />
Steve Bilsborough
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118 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Bilbao<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €28.<br />
Buses go to the<br />
city every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 El Hogar<br />
del Pescador (Puerto<br />
Pesquero, Santurce,<br />
tel: 94 461 0211) This<br />
rustic fi sh restaurant,<br />
famous for its sardines,<br />
overlooks the harbour<br />
in Santurce. It’s a<br />
20-minute metro ride<br />
from the city centre, but<br />
the fl avours and views<br />
will make it well worth<br />
your while.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Ama<br />
Lurre (1 Calle Máximo<br />
Aguirre, tel: 94 423<br />
7150) Here, at what<br />
is undoubtedly one of<br />
the city’s top seafood<br />
eateries, diners can<br />
choose the lobster they<br />
want from the tank and<br />
then wait patiently as<br />
the chef cooks it<br />
to perfection.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Medieval Alquimia (27<br />
Calle José Maria Escuza,<br />
tel: 94 441 7730) A<br />
spacious bar with a<br />
medieval theme and<br />
a friendly atmosphere.<br />
One of the house<br />
speciality cocktails<br />
will get your night off<br />
to a good start.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Café<br />
Bar Solube (11 Calle<br />
Barrenkale, tel: 94 415<br />
0873) After-dark, this<br />
quiet café transforms<br />
into a busy late-night<br />
bar. Expect a vivacious<br />
party atmosphere and<br />
lively music until late.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Pastelería<br />
Jauregui is a delightful<br />
little cake shop selling<br />
homemade pastries<br />
and jams. Great<br />
for a sweet treat in<br />
between sightseeing (9<br />
Zabalgune Enparantza,<br />
tel: 94 423 0884).<br />
GO All aboard the<br />
funicular railway to<br />
the top of Mount<br />
Artxanda. The threeminute<br />
trip is great fun,<br />
and offers spectacular<br />
views across Bilbao and<br />
the Bay of Biscay. Stop<br />
for a drink or snack<br />
at one of the many<br />
bars and restaurants<br />
at the top before you<br />
make your descent.<br />
Trains leave from the<br />
Plaza Funicular.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bilbao is going to be<br />
one of the fi rst cities in<br />
Spain to have doubledecker<br />
buses on its<br />
streets, following years<br />
of battles about Spain’s<br />
height regulations<br />
for vehicles.<br />
Katherine Bilsborough<br />
Birmingham<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £20.<br />
Trains leave every<br />
10 minutes for the<br />
centre. Tickets: £3.10<br />
single; £6.20 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Oriental<br />
Bar Restaurant (128–<br />
130 Wharfside Street,<br />
The Mailbox, tel: 0121<br />
633 9988) This Asian<br />
restaurant with its canal<br />
views boasts a lengthy<br />
menu of Chinese, Malay<br />
and Thai food. The beef<br />
rendang comes highly<br />
recommended.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Simpsons (20 Highfi eld<br />
Road, Edgbaston) Diners<br />
at this Michelin-starred<br />
venue are treated to a<br />
refi ned menu featuring<br />
turbot and suckling pig.<br />
In keeping with the food,<br />
the wine list and service<br />
are excellent.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Anchor Inn<br />
(308 Bradford Street,<br />
Digbeth, tel: 0121 622<br />
4516) This old-style<br />
boozer is a great place<br />
for a drink. Its traditional<br />
décor is complemented<br />
by an impressive range<br />
of beers and ales.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Poppy Red (Arcadian<br />
Centre, Hurst Street,<br />
tel: 0121 687 1200) This<br />
trendy nightspot keeps<br />
the music pumping until<br />
2am every night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Pick up a unique<br />
piece of jewellery or<br />
commission your own<br />
design at one of the<br />
many shops in the<br />
Jewellery Quarter.<br />
SEE Award-winning<br />
musical Les Misérables’<br />
touring production<br />
graces the Hippodrome<br />
stage until 17 April<br />
(birmingham<br />
hippodrome.com).<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
GETTING AWAY FOR THE WEEKEND?<br />
ENJOY THE FREEDOM OF RENTAL!<br />
NO WAY!<br />
If all of the Cadbury<br />
Creme Eggs produced<br />
in a year were stacked<br />
high, the pile would be<br />
ten times higher than<br />
Mount Everest.<br />
Jenny McKelvie<br />
RADISSON SAS<br />
BIRMINGHAM<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
A fashionable abode,<br />
enjoy laidback dining<br />
in this hotel’s bistro,<br />
which has a tasty<br />
Mediterranean menu.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €102, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Bodrum<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY Lira (YTL)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs YTL80.<br />
HAVAS operates a<br />
service to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: YTL15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Orfoz<br />
Restaurant (177B<br />
Cumhuriyet Caddesi,<br />
tel: 0252 316 4285) Run<br />
by the friendly Cagri<br />
and Caglar brothers,<br />
Orfoz serves some of<br />
the best seafood around<br />
– including fabulously<br />
fresh octopus, mussels<br />
and fi sh.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Küba<br />
(62 Neyzen Tevfi k<br />
Caddesi, tel: 0252 313<br />
4450) This old-style<br />
Turkish house has been<br />
beautifully renovated<br />
and decorated all in<br />
white. Küba serves<br />
as a restaurant<br />
and a nightclub<br />
– and it excels at<br />
Mediterranean cuisine.<br />
Order the grouper for<br />
your main course.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Zazu<br />
(144A Neyzen Tevfi k<br />
Caddesi, tel: 0252 313<br />
3645) A casual café<br />
and restaurant, Zazu<br />
is open daily from<br />
8.30am–2am and<br />
offers light food such as<br />
sandwiches and salads.<br />
A great spot at any time<br />
of the day for good fun.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Campanella<br />
(Cumhuriyet Caddesi,<br />
tel: 0252 316 5302)<br />
A heady combination<br />
of chic clientèle and<br />
the hottest hits gives<br />
Campanella a deserved<br />
reputation as the<br />
trendiest club in town.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Bodrum Safran<br />
sells many types of<br />
handmade olive oil<br />
soaps, natural bath<br />
products, candles,<br />
homemade jams and<br />
more besides. An<br />
amazing collection of<br />
pashminas make<br />
a lovely gift (1 Yeni<br />
Çarsı, Sokak, tel. 0252<br />
316 2746).<br />
GO The Bodrum<br />
Castle and Underwater<br />
Museum, one of the<br />
world’s fi nest dedicated<br />
to underwater<br />
archaeology, is housed<br />
in a superb 15thcentury<br />
castle built by<br />
the Knights of St John<br />
of Rhodes (bodrummuseum.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
According to legend,<br />
nearby Bardakçı Bay is<br />
also known as the bay<br />
of Salmacis, the place<br />
where the son of the<br />
god Hermes and the<br />
goddess Aphrodite fell in<br />
love with a sea nymph.<br />
Sol Fernandez<br />
Renting a car with us for the<br />
fi rst time? Europcar guarantees<br />
you great car rental deals.<br />
Visit the Europcar desk<br />
or book at<br />
easyJet.com
120 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Bordeaux<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
A bus goes to Gare<br />
St Jean station.<br />
Tickets: €7.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ibaia Café<br />
(Quai de Chartrons, tel:<br />
05 5600 4535) A sunny<br />
April morning is the<br />
perfect time for a coffee<br />
overlooking the quays.<br />
Later in the day a range<br />
of tapas, drinks, and<br />
larger meals is available.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Gravelier<br />
(114 Cours de Verdun, tel:<br />
05 5648 1715) A small<br />
and rightfully renowned<br />
restaurant set over two<br />
fl oors in the heart of the<br />
Chartrons district. Chef<br />
Yves Gravelier makes<br />
imaginative, fresh and<br />
delicious food.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Brasserie<br />
du Passage (14–15<br />
Place Canteloup, Saint<br />
Michel, tel: 05 5691<br />
2036) A laidback<br />
watering hole, complete<br />
with a long marbletopped<br />
bar, big mirrors,<br />
and a great selection of<br />
wines and beers.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Max Bordeaux<br />
is an excellent wine<br />
boutique that doubles<br />
as a tasting gallery, with<br />
a range of top chateaux<br />
wines available to try (14<br />
Cours de l’Intendance,<br />
maxbordeaux.com).<br />
SEE From<br />
10–11 April, more than<br />
95 winemakers from<br />
the Premières Côtes<br />
de Blaye appellation<br />
will hold an Open Doors<br />
weekend. There will be<br />
various other events<br />
including some at the<br />
beautiful 14th-century<br />
Citadelle de Blaye<br />
fortress (aoc-blaye.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bordeaux was a central<br />
hub for the Roman<br />
Empire. The remains of<br />
an amphitheatre dating<br />
back to the third century<br />
and known as the Pallais<br />
Gallien, are tucked<br />
among the city streets.<br />
Jane Anson<br />
Bournemouth<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £16.<br />
The A1 shuttle<br />
bus runs to the<br />
main square until<br />
6.30pm. Tickets: £4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Hot<br />
Rocks Restaurant<br />
(Pier Approach, tel:<br />
01202 555 559)<br />
Boasting great views<br />
over the pier and<br />
beach, this surfthemed<br />
restaurant<br />
serves chillis, chargrills,<br />
ribs and burgers,<br />
plus reasonably priced<br />
delicious cocktails.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Edge (2 Studland<br />
Road, Alum Chine,<br />
tel: 01202 757<br />
007) On the fourth<br />
fl oor of a modern<br />
apartment block<br />
this contemporary<br />
restaurant has<br />
fantastic coastal<br />
views and an outside<br />
terrace. Try a sharing<br />
platter of sushi or a<br />
more substantial main<br />
course, such as halibut<br />
or guinea fowl.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Urban<br />
Beach Bistro (23 Argyll<br />
Road, Boscombe, tel:<br />
01202 301 509) A lively<br />
but laidback bistro<br />
with log fi res and an<br />
outside deck, serving<br />
great cocktails and<br />
toe-tapping live music<br />
on Thursdays. If the<br />
music’s not too loud<br />
you should be able to<br />
hear the crashing waves<br />
of the nearby sea.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Lava<br />
& Ignite (Firvale Road,<br />
tel: 01202 311 178)<br />
Bournemouth’s largest<br />
nightclub features<br />
music of all styles<br />
including R’n’B, disco,<br />
garage, soul and retro.<br />
Feeling outrageous?<br />
There’s a hot tub to<br />
check out, too.<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
LATE &<br />
LIVELY<br />
Ice Room (Hangar<br />
19, Quai de Bacalan)<br />
You’ll be provided<br />
with coat and gloves<br />
to go in to the corner<br />
room kept at -10ºC,<br />
where the bar, chairs<br />
and glasses are all<br />
sculpted from ice.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The original<br />
branch of Lush, the<br />
quirky cosmetics and<br />
fragrances shop, still<br />
smells as good as ever,<br />
with its wide array<br />
of homemade soaps<br />
and toiletries (29 High<br />
Street, Poole).<br />
SEE Hunt for dragons’<br />
eggs this Easter at<br />
Lulworth Castle, where<br />
you’ll also fi nd storytellers,<br />
quizzes, treasure<br />
trails and Sir Cool the<br />
Knight. This year you’ll<br />
have to get there early<br />
as Easter falls on the<br />
fi rst weekend of the<br />
month (lulworth.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Bournemouth<br />
suburb of Boscombe<br />
is home to Europe’s<br />
fi rst artifi cial surf reef.<br />
Matthew Hancock<br />
Brindisi<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Local STP buses<br />
leave every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €0.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Casa San<br />
Giacamo (Via Bixio<br />
Continelli, Ostuni) This<br />
restaurant is certainly<br />
one of the best in Ostuni<br />
and is a favourite with<br />
many locals. Wonderful<br />
service, great décor,<br />
good wines and<br />
excellent food are all to<br />
be expected, creating<br />
a perfect evening.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Osteria<br />
Gia Sotto L’Arco (72<br />
Corso Vittorio Emanuelle,<br />
Carovigno, tel: 0831<br />
996 286) This elegant<br />
family-run joint is one<br />
of Puglia’s most elegant<br />
restaurants. The menu is<br />
an excellent showcase for<br />
local fl avours, including<br />
delicious burrata<br />
mozzarella – heavenly.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Birra Gruit<br />
(120 Via Carmine, tel:<br />
0831 562 780) If you<br />
want some friendly faces<br />
and a bite to eat over<br />
a beer, then this is the<br />
place. Make sure you try<br />
the ancient beer recipe<br />
that the monks used to<br />
brew on this very site<br />
hundreds of years ago.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Disco Te Papa (Strada<br />
per San Marzano di San<br />
Giuseppe) Opening late<br />
and fi nishing even later,<br />
don’t even think about<br />
going before midnight,<br />
but once you get there<br />
you’ll fi nd a typically<br />
southern Italian club.<br />
It’s full of gorgeous<br />
people, a little bit<br />
cheesy, but lots of fun.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Easter is taken<br />
more seriously here<br />
than in the UK and<br />
as a result the main<br />
high streets heave<br />
with gift ideas. Go<br />
for a walk down the<br />
Corso Umberto and<br />
have a browse.<br />
GO Visit Lecce during<br />
Easter week. There<br />
is a holiday spirit in<br />
the air, the shops and<br />
bars are bustling, and<br />
every day around every<br />
corner there seems to<br />
be a market or trade<br />
fair of some sort. It’s<br />
an excellent time to<br />
visit one of the south’s<br />
favourite cities.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The name Brindisi<br />
derives from the<br />
Messapian name<br />
Brention meaning<br />
deer’s head, which most<br />
probably refers to the<br />
shape of the natural<br />
harbour there.<br />
Max Keep
Bristol<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £25.<br />
The Bristol<br />
International Flyer<br />
goes to Temple Meads<br />
train station, Bristol Bus<br />
Station and Clifton, with<br />
stops around the city.<br />
Tickets: £6–£7 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 The<br />
Village Pottery (70<br />
Princess Victoria<br />
Street, Clifton, tel: 0117<br />
973 4343) A quirky<br />
mix of a studio, gallery<br />
and coffee bar, run by<br />
potter Jen Hamilton.<br />
Pop in for a cup of<br />
Fairtrade tea or coffee<br />
and a slice of cake.<br />
UP TO €30 Las<br />
Iguanas (Whiteladies<br />
Road, Anchor Square,<br />
tel: 0117 927 6233)<br />
Tickle your taste<br />
buds with signature<br />
dish xinxim, Brazilian<br />
lime chicken, which<br />
combines Latin,<br />
African and fi ery<br />
Portuguese fl avours.<br />
UP TO €50 The<br />
Rockfi sh Grill and<br />
Seafood Market (128<br />
Whiteladies Road,<br />
tel: 0117 973 7384)<br />
This place is all about<br />
seriously fresh fi sh:<br />
the catch of the day<br />
is delivered daily and<br />
served up straight. The<br />
speciality is grilled fi sh<br />
and steaks cooked over<br />
a charcoal fi re.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
The Orangery at<br />
Tortworth Court<br />
(Wotton-Under-Edge,<br />
South Gloucestershire,<br />
tel: 01454 263 000)<br />
The Orangery is<br />
committed to serving<br />
locally sourced<br />
produce, with much<br />
of it coming from the<br />
Tortworth Estate.<br />
Seasonal menus refl ect<br />
the best of modern<br />
British cuisine and are<br />
complemented by an<br />
accessible wine list.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Watershed<br />
Café-Bar (Watershed<br />
Media Centre, 1 Canons<br />
Road, Harbourside, tel:<br />
0117 927 6444) Relax<br />
with a quiet drink or<br />
hang out with friends at<br />
this harbourside media<br />
venue that’s popular<br />
with locals. Enjoy wines<br />
and lagers from around<br />
the world, light bites<br />
and free Wi-Fi.<br />
LIVE MUSIC O2<br />
Academy Bristol<br />
(Frogmore Street, tel:<br />
0117 927 9227) A great<br />
music venue that hosts<br />
club nights and gigs from<br />
a variety of bands. There<br />
is a weekly Ramshackle<br />
event on Friday nights<br />
and in April, The Wonder<br />
Stuff (18th) and Reef<br />
(21st) are among those<br />
who take to the stage.<br />
LATE & LIVELY The<br />
Woods (1 Park Street<br />
Avenue, tel: 0117 925<br />
0890) A popular and<br />
eclectic-looking bar<br />
set within an elegant<br />
Victorian building, The<br />
Woods has a fi ne whisky<br />
collection and a guitardriven<br />
music policy.<br />
Oceana (South<br />
Building, Harbourside,<br />
tel: 0845 293 2860)<br />
With seven themed<br />
venues, including<br />
fi ve bars and two<br />
nightclubs, Oceana<br />
offers something to<br />
suit everyone.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Mall has all<br />
the best things about<br />
high street shopping<br />
in the comfort of an<br />
exciting, indoor, twolevel<br />
centre. Around<br />
135 top-name stores<br />
and 17 cafés and<br />
restaurants can all be<br />
found under one roof<br />
(Cribbs Causeway, tel:<br />
0117 915 5555).<br />
SHOP Bristol Blue<br />
Glass is a glass-blowing<br />
factory where skilled<br />
glassmakers continue<br />
a time-honoured<br />
Bristol tradition making<br />
striking blown glass by<br />
hand. Select a souvenir<br />
from the widest<br />
selection of blue glass<br />
to buy in the south<br />
west (Unit 7, Whitby<br />
Road, Brislington, tel:<br />
0117 972 0818).<br />
SEE The legendary<br />
Riverdance continues<br />
its Farewell Tour across<br />
the UK at Bristol’s<br />
Hippodrome from<br />
5–10 April. Of all the<br />
performances to<br />
emerge from Ireland<br />
in the past decade,<br />
nothing has matched<br />
the energy and the<br />
spectacle of this<br />
phenomenon (St<br />
Augustine’s Parade,<br />
tel: 0117 302 3333).<br />
GO Located in the<br />
south of the city is<br />
Southville, where you’ll<br />
fi nd the trendy North<br />
Street. Here you can<br />
enjoy a relaxing drink<br />
and great food in one<br />
of the many bars and<br />
cafés. There’s also a<br />
weekly farmers’ market<br />
at The Tobacco Factory.<br />
ESCAPE Cheddar is<br />
home to the famous<br />
cheese. Visit the<br />
cathedral-like caves<br />
and Britain’s biggest<br />
gorge when you’re<br />
there, or try something<br />
more adventurous,<br />
like abseiling.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
THE BRISTOL<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
On the edge of the<br />
Floating Harbour, this<br />
hotel is encircled with<br />
rich maritime heritage<br />
and a short walk from<br />
the Old Town. From<br />
€90, book at hotels.<br />
easyJet.com.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Massive Attack originate<br />
from Bristol and met as<br />
members of the Wild<br />
Bunch in the 1980s.<br />
Chris Savage,<br />
Destination Bristol<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 121<br />
Brussels<br />
Belgium<br />
DIALLING CODE +32<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
Every 20 minutes,<br />
routes 12 and 21<br />
go to Schuman metro<br />
station. Tickets: €3 (€5<br />
on the bus).<br />
Trains depart every<br />
15 minutes. Tickets:<br />
€5 single; €10 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Shere-<br />
E-Punjab (2 Rue<br />
de l’Artichaut, tel:<br />
02 280 4802) Find<br />
affordable prices<br />
and friendly service,<br />
plus fl owers on each<br />
table, in this reliable<br />
Indian restaurant near<br />
the European Union<br />
Institutions.<br />
UP TO €30 Les<br />
Petits Pères (149 Rue<br />
des Carmélites, tel: 02<br />
345 6671) As spring<br />
is coming and the<br />
days get longer, have<br />
lunch in the pretty<br />
wisteria garden of this<br />
reputed restaurant.<br />
The set menu with<br />
wine and coffee is a<br />
great deal to savour<br />
while enjoying the<br />
fl owers and the lovely<br />
fresh spring air.<br />
UP TO €50 Notos<br />
(154 Rue de Livourne,<br />
tel: 02 513 2959) Chef<br />
Constantin Erinkoglou<br />
prides himself on<br />
sourcing his ingredients<br />
from Greek suppliers,<br />
with the aim of offering<br />
the most authentic<br />
Greek food in Brussels.<br />
He has succeeded, with<br />
this being one of the<br />
top Greek venues<br />
in the city.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Café<br />
Wiltcher’s (Conrad<br />
Brussels Hotel, 71<br />
Avenue Louise, Ixelles,<br />
tel: 02 542 4850) The<br />
prestigious Conrad<br />
Brussels Hotel hosts<br />
this chic restaurant,<br />
with huge doors,<br />
stained glass on the<br />
ceiling and a stunning<br />
black piano. The stylish<br />
atmosphere extends<br />
to the menu, which<br />
includes a succulent<br />
Aberdeen Angus fi llet<br />
with shallots.<br />
Le Vignoble de<br />
Margot (368 Avenue<br />
de Tervuren, Woluwe-<br />
Saint-Pierre, tel: 02<br />
779 2323) Chef Claude<br />
Noaillon cooks up<br />
his famous roasted<br />
turbot in this<br />
restaurant surrounded<br />
by beautiful ponds<br />
and vineyards. Save<br />
a little room for the<br />
carpaccio of exotic<br />
fruits from this rural<br />
retreat, minutes away<br />
by car from the city.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le<br />
Fontainas (91 Rue<br />
Marché aux Charbons,<br />
tel: 02 503 3112) From
122 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Brussels<br />
Belgium<br />
young students to<br />
mature executives,<br />
all kinds of people<br />
try to get a table on<br />
the terrace of this<br />
centrally located pub,<br />
which is set away<br />
from the traffi c on<br />
a pedestrian street.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Sazz ‘N<br />
Jazz (241 Rue Royale)<br />
Sazz ‘N Jazz brings<br />
a range of cultures<br />
together through its<br />
musical programme,<br />
with jazz and world<br />
music gigs taking place<br />
almost every day.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Duke’s (2 Rue de<br />
l’Homme Chrétien,<br />
tel: 02 639 1400)<br />
A middle-aged and<br />
nostalgic crowd can<br />
be found lounging in<br />
the luxurious Duke’s,<br />
where the DJ is adored<br />
for his 1980s and<br />
1990s musical choices.<br />
Be warned: the dress<br />
code is smart, not retro<br />
fancy dress.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Every weekend,<br />
antiques lovers head<br />
to the Place du Grand<br />
Sablon for the Antiques<br />
Market. As well as being<br />
a very pleasant stroll,<br />
there are plenty of<br />
experts to chat to.<br />
SHOP Atipic is a<br />
real Ali Baba’s cave,<br />
with everything from<br />
Chinese Manga dolls<br />
and fi gurines to bird<br />
tables, unusual mugs<br />
and other knick knacks<br />
(170A Chaussée de<br />
Charleroi, Saint-Gilles).<br />
SEE The Centre de<br />
la Culture Judéo-<br />
Marocaine offers<br />
a window into a<br />
fascinating culture,<br />
with typical clothes,<br />
spices, odours and<br />
paintings showcasing<br />
Jewish life in Morocco<br />
through history<br />
(19 Place Vander Elst).<br />
GO Since the early<br />
17th century, a bronze<br />
fountain has been<br />
one of the most<br />
iconic symbols of<br />
Brussels. Hilarious<br />
for many travellers,<br />
the Manneken Pis,<br />
the young boy<br />
urinating, can be seen<br />
at the junction of<br />
Rue de l’Etuve and<br />
Rue du Chêne.<br />
ESCAPE At just<br />
50km from Brussels,<br />
Antwerp has more<br />
than enough going<br />
on to make a fun day<br />
trip. Take some great<br />
photos of old Flemish<br />
architecture as you<br />
browse through the<br />
shops. Finally, if you’ve<br />
any energy left, visit<br />
one of the oldest and<br />
most famous zoos in<br />
the world.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Herman Van Rompuy,<br />
the permanent<br />
President of the<br />
European Council, was<br />
born in Brussels, where<br />
he studied Ancient<br />
Greek and Latin.<br />
Fadil Kebsi<br />
Bucharest<br />
Romania<br />
DIALLING CODE +40<br />
CURRENCY Leu (RON)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs RON100.<br />
Bus 783 leaves<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: RON8.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 St George<br />
(44 Strada Franceza,<br />
tel: 021 317 1087) Great<br />
Hungarian food is served<br />
up in the Old Town: go<br />
for the mutton stew<br />
with dumplings. There’s<br />
also live music from a<br />
wandering gypsy band.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Escargot<br />
Bistro (101 Strada<br />
Toamnei) Easily the<br />
best French restaurant<br />
in Bucharest. The potroasted<br />
duck is as tender<br />
as anything you would<br />
have ever tasted, the<br />
staff are ebullient, and<br />
the whole experience<br />
is one big, happy,<br />
gastronomic adventure.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Divan (46–<br />
48 Strada Franceza, tel:<br />
021 312 3034) Currently<br />
the trendiest café in<br />
the Old Town, this place<br />
is usually packed with<br />
young locals drinking<br />
coffee and cocktails<br />
and smoking hookah<br />
pipes from the comfort<br />
of some very funky<br />
armchairs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Deja-vu (25 B-dul<br />
Nicolae Balcescu, tel:<br />
021 311 2322) Still the<br />
most outrageous club in<br />
Bucharest. An eclectic<br />
mix of music and a crazy<br />
crowd of nonconformists<br />
guarantee a memorable<br />
evening of fun.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Mihaela Glavan<br />
is Romania’s top shoe<br />
designer. Costing from<br />
around RON600 a pair,<br />
this bespoke luxury<br />
doesn’t come cheap (24<br />
Intrarea Tudor Stefan).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Romanian Orthodox<br />
Easter falls both this<br />
year and next at the<br />
same time as Western<br />
Easter. After that the<br />
two will not coincide<br />
again until 2014.<br />
Craig Turp<br />
RUSSIAN<br />
CHURCH<br />
SEE With its golden<br />
domes, this is the<br />
city’s most impressive<br />
church. Built with<br />
money from the<br />
Russian Tsar<br />
Alexander II, it is a<br />
copy of the Cathedral<br />
in Moscow’s Kremlin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Budapest<br />
Hungary<br />
DIALLING CODE +36<br />
CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
HUF3,500–HUF4,800.<br />
Trains leave<br />
Terminal 1 for<br />
Western station.<br />
Tickets: HUF300.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Hyppolit<br />
(125 Attila utca, I, tel: 201<br />
7707) Good quality and<br />
satisfying Hungarian<br />
cuisine is dished up<br />
in a retro atmosphere<br />
not far from Moszkva<br />
Square. Catfi sh stew is<br />
a favourite coupled with<br />
any of the domestic<br />
beers or wines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Ráspi<br />
Budapest (53 Király<br />
utca, VII, tel: 297<br />
2348) The renowned<br />
maker of organic wine<br />
has just opened his<br />
second restaurant in<br />
Hungary, in the heart<br />
of Budapest. The<br />
owner’s philosophy is<br />
to use local seasonal<br />
ingredients and to keep<br />
the menu small, but<br />
of high quality with<br />
many hand-picked<br />
raw ingredients.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Sugar! (48<br />
Paulay Ede utca, VII, tel:<br />
321 6672) You’ll fi nd a<br />
spectacular array of<br />
desserts in every shape,<br />
size and colour here,<br />
with varying weekly<br />
specials. If that’s not<br />
enough to satisfy your<br />
sweet tooth, there’s an<br />
endless selection of<br />
chocolates, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kupplung (46 Király<br />
utca, VI, tel: 755 3527)<br />
This huge super-club<br />
plays everything from<br />
crowd-pleasing pop<br />
to indie and rock and<br />
the doors stay open<br />
till dawn.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Front will<br />
provide you with a<br />
different defi nition of<br />
souvenir. Pick up unique,<br />
made-in-Hungary gifts<br />
for the young or youngat-heart,<br />
including<br />
clocks, notebooks,<br />
jewellery and clothing<br />
(5 Múzeum Korut, V, tel:<br />
787 7503).<br />
SEE The Museum<br />
of Fine Arts shines<br />
this month with<br />
Degas to Picasso:<br />
French Masterpieces<br />
from the Pushkin<br />
Museum, a stunning,<br />
55-piece exhibition on<br />
loan from the Moscow<br />
museum. Until 25 April<br />
(museum.hu).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Budapest has stood in<br />
for a long list of other<br />
cities, including Rome,<br />
Paris, London, Berlin and<br />
Buenos Aires, in fi lms<br />
over the last 20 years.<br />
Deborah Marshall
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124 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Cagliari<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
ARST buses to the<br />
city centre leave<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €2.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caffè<br />
Svizzero (6 Largo Carlo<br />
Felice, tel: 070 653 784)<br />
A classic café in the<br />
pulsating heart of the<br />
city, where locals enjoy<br />
real Italian coffee on<br />
the glass pavilion while<br />
watching the world go by.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Dulcis (14 Viale Regina<br />
Margherita, tel: 070 684<br />
719) This jam-packed<br />
club caters to your every<br />
whim, with sushi on the<br />
menu, the best cocktails<br />
in town and regular DJs<br />
to keep the crowds on<br />
the dancefl oor happy.<br />
Casablanca<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs MAD250.<br />
Trains depart<br />
every hour to<br />
Casa Voyageur. Tickets:<br />
MAD35–MAD50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Paul<br />
(Boulevard d’Anfa,<br />
Racine, tel: 0522 366<br />
000) Founded in 1889,<br />
Paul’s French bakery has<br />
spread world-over. With<br />
the warm weather, enjoy<br />
salads and sandwiches<br />
on the terrace.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Ostréa<br />
(Port de Pêche, tel:<br />
0522 441 390) Famous<br />
for its home-grown<br />
oysters, this is one<br />
of Casablanca’s best<br />
seafood restaurants.<br />
If oysters aren’t your<br />
thing, try the seafood<br />
gratin or the lobster.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Irish<br />
Pub (10 Avenue Hassan<br />
Souktani, tel: 0522 200<br />
210) Unwind with a beer<br />
amid a familiar ambience<br />
in Casa’s newest pub.<br />
There’s live music, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Angel (Hotel Azur,<br />
41 Boulevard de la<br />
Corniche, tel: 0522<br />
797 493) This is a good<br />
place for late-night<br />
drinking and dancing<br />
with heavenly bodies to<br />
the latest techno beats.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Fauchon, the<br />
French gourmet store,<br />
specialises in sweet and<br />
savoury delicacies. Stock<br />
up on some brand-name<br />
groceries from teas to<br />
caviar or confectionaries<br />
(21 Boulevard Moulay).<br />
GO A hive of activity<br />
surrounds the Marche<br />
Centrale, and inside<br />
you’ll fi nd all kinds of<br />
stalls. Select fresh fi sh<br />
and have it prepared on<br />
site – totally divine!<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Taverna<br />
Su Milese (32–34 Via<br />
Barcellona, tel: 070<br />
451 3086) This typical<br />
Italian trattoria is famed<br />
for its high-quality food<br />
and excellent prices.<br />
The cuisine, which is<br />
almost entirely based on<br />
fresh products from the<br />
region, is a great way to<br />
sample some authentic<br />
Sardinian fl avours.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante 51 (51 Via<br />
Santa Croce, tel: 070<br />
858 6629) Dine in style<br />
in this new and very<br />
fashionable restaurant<br />
in the heart of the<br />
beautiful Old Town. The<br />
progressive cuisine<br />
creates little works of<br />
art, each one tastier<br />
than the last – and just<br />
when you think you can<br />
eat no more, there’s the<br />
chocolate cake.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Sardegna in<br />
Tavola offers a wide<br />
selection of Sardinia’s<br />
fi nest specialities:<br />
wine, liquor, Sardinian<br />
sweets and handmade<br />
treasures such as<br />
porcelain and ceramics<br />
(62 Via Baylle).<br />
SEE The Sagra degli<br />
Agrumi is a colourful<br />
celebration of the<br />
harvest time of the<br />
citrus fruits that grow<br />
in the area. People<br />
dress up in traditional<br />
Sardinian costumes and<br />
you can try as many<br />
tangy oranges as you<br />
like. Catch it from 16–18<br />
April in the nearby<br />
village of Muravera.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
According to local legend<br />
the martyr Sant’Efi sio<br />
saved the city from a<br />
terrible plague in the<br />
mid-17th century, even<br />
though the saint had<br />
passed away long before<br />
in the fourth century.<br />
Dario Henke<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Berbers were the<br />
original people of<br />
Morocco and about<br />
75% of Moroccans now<br />
are pure Berber or of<br />
Berber origin.<br />
Cara Warkentin<br />
HOTEL<br />
GITE NADIA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Romantic canopy<br />
beds and Tadelakt<br />
walls will transport you<br />
right back to the heart<br />
of the Old Medina.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €64, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
Catania<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 457 leaves<br />
every 20 minutes,<br />
stopping in the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1 (machine);<br />
€1.30 (on board).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Cucina dei Colori (9<br />
Via San Michele, tel:<br />
095 315 546) This<br />
small tavern proposes<br />
natural, organic and<br />
vegan food within an<br />
organic traditional<br />
setting. Carnivores can<br />
breathe a sigh of relief,<br />
specialities also include<br />
pasta and roasted meat.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Romano<br />
Palace Luxury Hotel<br />
(28 Viale Kennedy, tel:<br />
095 376 400) Close to<br />
the sea and surrounded<br />
by a lush garden, this<br />
restaurant deserves<br />
its fi ve stars. À la carte<br />
or vegetarian menus<br />
are all available to<br />
enjoy in the opulent<br />
atmosphere, served by<br />
attentive waiters and<br />
accompanied by an<br />
international wine list.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Fiaschetteria Biscari<br />
(8 Via Museo Biscari,<br />
tel: 095 093 2761) A<br />
cool wine bar located in<br />
the historic city centre,<br />
here you can enjoy a<br />
good glass of wine or<br />
a fresh dessert.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Casa<br />
Brasil (704 Via Etnea,<br />
tel: 095 441 990) At this<br />
venue there’s a carnival<br />
atmosphere all year<br />
round. The vibrancy,<br />
colours, music and<br />
food from Brazil can<br />
all be found here<br />
where you can dance<br />
samba, pagode and<br />
axe until late.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP I Portali is<br />
the newest shopping<br />
centre to hit Catania<br />
and it is already one of<br />
the most visited thanks<br />
to its wide variety of<br />
shops and restaurants<br />
(Polo commerciale San<br />
Giovanni La Punta).<br />
SEE Catania Jazz<br />
has organised three<br />
exciting music<br />
concerts: the Japanese<br />
N’Guyen Le Saiyuki<br />
Trio play on 8 April,<br />
the American Ben<br />
Sidran Quartet (20th)<br />
and the Italian group<br />
Radiodervish (28th). All<br />
the recitals are held in<br />
the magnifi cent Teatro<br />
Metropolitan di Catania<br />
(21 Via Sant’Euplio).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sicily has a high<br />
number of UFO<br />
sightings – up to<br />
800 a year.<br />
Alessandro Di Maio/<br />
laspecula.com
126 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Cologne<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Cologne is<br />
€30 and €40 to Bonn.<br />
Trains leave for<br />
Cologne every 10<br />
minutes. Tickets: €2.50.<br />
The bus for Bonn,<br />
leaves every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €4.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Haus Töller (96<br />
Weyerstrasse, Cologne,<br />
tel: 0221 258 9316)<br />
Haus Töller is one of<br />
the oldest Brauhäuser<br />
in Cologne – it’s dark<br />
and very traditional. Try<br />
the famous sauerkraft<br />
and mash or the<br />
reibekuchen (rosti).<br />
EXCLUSIVE Altes<br />
Treppchen (308<br />
Endenicher Strasse,<br />
Bonn, tel: 0228 625<br />
004) When Bonn was<br />
Germany’s capital this<br />
was where the politicians<br />
and diplomats dined,<br />
and today it still serves<br />
up delicious food in<br />
a charming and<br />
traditional setting. Try<br />
the mustard roast with<br />
potatoes and salad.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bonner<br />
Brasserie (5<br />
Remigiusplatz, Bonn,<br />
tel: 0228 655 559) This<br />
is one of Bonn’s most<br />
popular meeting places.<br />
Make like a local and<br />
sit on the large outdoor<br />
terrace to enjoy the<br />
views over the busy,<br />
colourful fl ower market.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Comedia Gastronomie<br />
(4–8 Vondelstrasse,<br />
Cologne, tel: 0221 3555<br />
8910) Tucked away in a<br />
back street in Cologne’s<br />
Südstadt, this bar is part<br />
of the Comedia chain<br />
and is a great place for<br />
drinks, snacks or a meal.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For the best<br />
Italian produce check<br />
out Rewe Stranda,<br />
which stocks a variety<br />
of Italian coffees, fresh<br />
meat, fi sh and a cheese<br />
selection (70 Breite<br />
Strasse, Cologne).<br />
SEE The Museum<br />
König in Bonn presents<br />
Dinosaurier, an<br />
exhibition featuring<br />
the bones of the<br />
Argentinosaurus rebuilt<br />
as the mammal once<br />
was – 40 metres long<br />
and eight metres high<br />
(160 Adenauerallee).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
During World War II,<br />
bombs destroyed more<br />
than 90% of the city and<br />
reduced the population<br />
from 800,000 to<br />
40,000. There was so<br />
little left of Cologne, a<br />
suggestion was made to<br />
rebuild it elsewhere.<br />
Gaby Pinkner/<br />
rhinemagazine.com<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Denmark<br />
DIALLING CODE +45<br />
CURRENCY Krone (DKK)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs DKK180.<br />
Underground<br />
trains go to<br />
Nørreport station from<br />
Terminal 3. Tickets:<br />
DKK31.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 42°<br />
Raw (32 Pilestraede,<br />
tel: 3212 3210)<br />
Copenhagen’s fi rst<br />
raw food restaurant<br />
serves delicious salads,<br />
smoothies and juices<br />
perfect for the healthconscious<br />
visitor, with<br />
not a grungy hippie<br />
in sight!<br />
UP TO €30 Atlas Bar<br />
(18 Larsbjornsstraede,<br />
tel: 3315 0352) A cosy<br />
central restaurant<br />
tucked away in<br />
a basement with<br />
a laidback feel. The<br />
menu boasts European,<br />
Mexican and Asian food<br />
at great prices.<br />
UP TO €50 Aamanns<br />
Establishment (12<br />
Oster Farimagsgade,<br />
tel: 3555 3310) A<br />
favourite with locals,<br />
this relaxed restaurant<br />
serves delicious<br />
Danish classics such<br />
as bulging, open<br />
sandwiches and stews<br />
made from seasonal<br />
and mainly organic<br />
ingredients. Wash one<br />
of these great creations<br />
down with a wine from<br />
the list of biodynamic<br />
reds and whites.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurant<br />
D’Angleterre (34<br />
Kongens Nytorv, tel:<br />
3337 0645) Join the<br />
long list of luminaries<br />
– including Churchill,<br />
Grace Kelly and Sean<br />
Penn – who have eaten<br />
at the city’s fi nest<br />
fi ve-star hotel. Frenchinspired<br />
dishes such as<br />
foie gras and oysters<br />
are served at tables<br />
that offer views across<br />
a grand square.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Underwood Ink<br />
(30A Ryesgade, tel:<br />
3535 5553) Named<br />
after Hemingway’s<br />
preferred typewriter<br />
brand, this hip café,<br />
which doubles as<br />
a bookshop and<br />
an art exhibition<br />
space, is a must for<br />
lovers of Danish and<br />
English underground<br />
literature. While away<br />
hours as you browse<br />
the collection and have<br />
a coffee or juice.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Blågårds Apotek Café<br />
(20 Blågårdsgade, tel:<br />
3537 2442) An intimate<br />
bar in the Latin Quarter<br />
of Nørrebro, this<br />
place is popular with<br />
students, who come<br />
for the live blues, rock<br />
and jazz acts almost<br />
every night of the week.<br />
Prepare to get hot and<br />
steamy, as the crowd<br />
here loves to dance.<br />
LATE & LIVELY 1105<br />
(4 Kristen Bernikows<br />
Gade, tel: 3393 1105)<br />
Hidden down a side<br />
street, this small,<br />
sophisticated bar<br />
serves exceptional<br />
cocktails mixed by<br />
one of the city’s most<br />
famed bartenders,<br />
Gromit Eduardsen. DJs<br />
play at the weekend<br />
and drown out the<br />
sounds of the übertrendy<br />
trying to get<br />
the bartender’s<br />
attention to order<br />
a fruity delight.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Fashion-savvy<br />
girls in search of<br />
vintage Scandinavian<br />
fashion should head to<br />
Tiger-Lily. Founded by<br />
two stylists, the shop<br />
sells dresses from the<br />
1950s–1970s, as well<br />
as bespoke pieces<br />
(8 Enghave Plads).<br />
IMPERIAL<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This opulent hotel<br />
has classical<br />
Danish design and<br />
striking modernist<br />
architecture. It’s the<br />
perfect place to relax.<br />
From €126, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
SEE Denmark’s<br />
biggest fi lm festival,<br />
CPH PIX, returns in<br />
April for its second<br />
year with a programme<br />
that boasts up to 170<br />
international feature<br />
fi lms, as well as<br />
concerts and special<br />
events throughout<br />
the city (15–25 April,<br />
cphpix.dk).<br />
GO Start at the Royal<br />
Danish Playhouse and<br />
walk along Larsens<br />
Plads by the waterfront<br />
to Amalienborg Palace<br />
Square. To the east<br />
is the Opera House,<br />
and to the west,<br />
Frederick’s Church,<br />
while immediately<br />
surrounding the square<br />
are the four buildings<br />
of the Royal Palace.<br />
Be warned: on 16 April<br />
fl ag-waving Danes<br />
will fi ll the square to<br />
celebrate the Queen’s<br />
70th birthday.<br />
ESCAPE The small<br />
fi shing hamlet of<br />
Dragoer may only be<br />
30 minutes on the<br />
number 35 bus from<br />
Copenhagen, but it<br />
feels like a different<br />
world. Meander around<br />
its cobbled streets,<br />
traditional, brightly<br />
painted houses,<br />
unique shops, cosy<br />
restaurants and<br />
picturesque harbour<br />
(visitdragoer.dk).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The 519,000 residents<br />
of Copenhagen own<br />
560,000 bicycles<br />
between them,<br />
meaning, amazingly,<br />
that there are more<br />
bikes than inhabitants!<br />
Cathy Strongman
Corfu<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €10–€12.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Harry’s<br />
Taverna (New Perithia)<br />
Twenty years on and<br />
Harry’s still mixes<br />
homely dishes – such<br />
as rolos (roast pork<br />
belly), kleftiko (cheese<br />
and spinach pastry)<br />
and moussaka – with<br />
sophisticated tastes. Try<br />
the mafi oso spaghetti.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Rex<br />
Restaurant (66 Ioannis<br />
Kapodistrias Street, tel:<br />
2661 039 649) Behind<br />
the famous Liston, Rex is<br />
a favourite with Corfu’s<br />
bourgeoisie. An extensive<br />
menu presents local<br />
and Greek classics, plus<br />
nouveau dishes such as<br />
chicken with kumquat<br />
sauce, enjoyed amid<br />
retro décor in this fi ne<br />
Venetian building.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Ilias Bar<br />
(Avliotes) Famed for<br />
the quality of its Greek<br />
coffee, Ilias is a local’s<br />
bar with a great warm<br />
welcome for visitors.<br />
Its pergola-shaded<br />
setting on the village<br />
square is stunning.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Privilege Disco<br />
Club (Mandouki<br />
Entertainment Centre,<br />
Corfu Town) Dress up to<br />
rub shoulders with the<br />
wealthy clubbing set at<br />
this busy dance venue,<br />
converted from an old<br />
factory. Music is mainly<br />
pop with gusto.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Join locals and<br />
celebrate spring by<br />
heading out into the<br />
country for a picnic (or<br />
have lunch in a taverna),<br />
and gather some of the<br />
abundant wild fl owers<br />
to decorate your villa or<br />
hotel room with.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Introduced by the then<br />
British rulers, cricket<br />
has been played in<br />
Corfu since 1823, and<br />
the island now boasts<br />
13 teams.<br />
Hilary Paipeti<br />
BOOK<br />
STORE<br />
SHOP Ask at<br />
Tourmousoglou for<br />
the latest in travel<br />
literature. The shop is<br />
the island’s best for<br />
guidebooks, maps<br />
and foreign-language<br />
novels (47 Nikiforous<br />
Theotoki Street).<br />
Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio)<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €25.<br />
Route 8 buses go<br />
to the centre, daily<br />
from 5.55am–11.15pm.<br />
Tickets: €4.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le<br />
Cabano (4 Boulevard<br />
Daniel Casanova, tel:<br />
04 9522 5590) The<br />
only restaurant in<br />
Ajaccio owned by a local<br />
fi sherman offers just<br />
the catch of the day,<br />
cooked impeccably<br />
using top-quality local<br />
ingredients. You will be<br />
thrilled with your meal.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Sofi tel<br />
Porticcio (Route de<br />
Porticcio, tel: 04 9529<br />
4040) This hotel has<br />
its very own peninsula,<br />
and perched right out at<br />
the end is the seawater<br />
pool and fi ne-dining<br />
restaurant. Lunch<br />
specials are imaginative<br />
and delicious, but save<br />
room for dessert – the<br />
three-chocolate mousse<br />
and infused mangoes<br />
are out of this world.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Casa<br />
Rossa (Bastelicaccia,<br />
tel: 06 1285 9887)<br />
Enjoy good music,<br />
food and drinks while<br />
lounging on funky<br />
mismatched furniture<br />
on Casa Rossa’s large<br />
terrace with its excellent<br />
sunset view.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
L’Aparte (2 Rue Général<br />
Sébastiani, tel: 04 9550<br />
1458) This tiny barbrasserie<br />
manages to<br />
squeeze in a bandstand<br />
to showcase the best<br />
jazz in town. A local<br />
favourite, it’s always<br />
hopping on weekends.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Just 15 minutes’<br />
south of Ajaccio on<br />
the main highway is<br />
the beautiful winery<br />
Clos Ornasca, which<br />
offers tours and sells<br />
award-winning wines.<br />
Particularly good is the<br />
2009 Muscat, which<br />
received a gold medal<br />
at a recent trade fair<br />
(tel: 04 9525 0907,<br />
closornasca.com).<br />
SEE Take part in one<br />
of the many activities<br />
organised by the city<br />
of Ajaccio to celebrate<br />
spring: guided walks,<br />
kayak trips, activity<br />
parks, rock climbing, and<br />
village tours are among<br />
the adventures on offer<br />
(ajaccio-tourisme.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 1492, while Columbus<br />
was crossing the<br />
ocean discovering<br />
the Americas, a<br />
Genoese explorer<br />
discovered Ajaccio.<br />
Olivia Kany<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 127<br />
Corsica<br />
(Bastia)<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €50.<br />
Catch the bus to<br />
the Préfecture.<br />
Tickets: €8.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Voûte (6 Rue Luce de<br />
Casabianca, tel: 04 9532<br />
4711) Good food and<br />
friendly service under<br />
traditional vaulted stone<br />
ceilings. The menu is<br />
very reasonable and<br />
boasts pizza, pasta, fi sh,<br />
meat and salads.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Chez<br />
Huguette (Rue de la<br />
Marine, tel: 04 9531<br />
3760) One of Bastia’s<br />
best addresses and with<br />
a stunning view over the<br />
old port, the feast is not<br />
just for the eyes here<br />
with lobster, crayfi sh,<br />
oysters and other locally<br />
caught seafood on the<br />
menu. End your meal<br />
with a croustillant de<br />
mascarpone au caramel.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Corsica<br />
Bar (2 Rue Marine, tel:<br />
04 9531 1939) A typical<br />
Corsican bar where the<br />
guitars are not just for<br />
decoration, and barely<br />
stay on the walls fi ve<br />
minutes on a busy<br />
night. Locals sit and sing<br />
the night away while<br />
enjoying a drink or three.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Petrabugno Bar (10<br />
Hameau Guaïtella, Villedi-Pietrabugno,<br />
tel: 04<br />
9532 7551) Overlooking<br />
Bastia, come here to<br />
dance the night away<br />
and meet a friendly<br />
twentysomething<br />
crowd. Open till 5am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Corsica’s<br />
gastronomical delights<br />
make ideal souvenirs<br />
and at Noi, you can<br />
choose from a selection<br />
of top-quality olive oil,<br />
honey, chocolates,<br />
nougat, traditional<br />
canistrelli (biscuits) and<br />
cheeses (45 Boulevard<br />
Paoli, tel: 04 9532 4719).<br />
SEE The annual Bd à<br />
Bastia exhibition takes<br />
place from 8–11 April.<br />
Discover classic comics<br />
from around the world<br />
and meet their famous<br />
authors. Russia is this<br />
year’s special guest<br />
and the theme is<br />
comics and sound<br />
(Arcades du Théâtre,<br />
Rue César Campinchi,<br />
tel: 04 9532 1281).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The paghjella, a Corsican<br />
male singing tradition,<br />
has been inscribed on<br />
the list of Intangible<br />
Cultural Heritage in Need<br />
of Urgent Safeguarding<br />
by UNESCO.<br />
Stacy Jouve
128 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Crete<br />
(Chania)<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €18.<br />
Buses run six<br />
times a day to the<br />
centre between 6am–<br />
8pm. Tickets: €2.10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
EXCLUSIVE Safran<br />
(30 Akti Tompazi, Old<br />
Harbour, tel: 2821 056<br />
333) Based in a beautiful<br />
neo-classical building on<br />
Chania Harbour, Safran<br />
serves excellent food<br />
with an emphasis on<br />
fi sh and seafood, and<br />
a good wine list to boot.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Koukouvagia Café<br />
(Profi t Ilias, Sody) A<br />
popular café on the<br />
hillside of the Akrotiri<br />
Peninsula with fantastic<br />
views of the coastline.<br />
Famed for its gooey<br />
chocolate cake, so leave<br />
room after dinner.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Baccara Club<br />
(22–24 Ikarou Avenue,<br />
Heraklion) This lively<br />
club features live Greek<br />
music by the best<br />
musicians on the island.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Take a stroll<br />
down Skridlof Street,<br />
which is also known as<br />
“leather lane” due to the<br />
large amount of leather<br />
stores along there. Pick<br />
up bargain boots, shoes,<br />
belts and handbags.<br />
GO The Greek Easter<br />
midnight church<br />
ceremony on 3 April is<br />
an impressive event.<br />
Join in at any church as<br />
the whole congregation<br />
moves outdoors to light<br />
candles on the stroke<br />
of midnight, followed<br />
by fi rework displays<br />
and bonfi res.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
At Greek Easter, in a<br />
Cretan tradition, children<br />
make an effi gy of Judas<br />
which they hang over<br />
a bonfi re outside their<br />
village church. They<br />
then burn him after<br />
the midnight Easter<br />
Saturday church service.<br />
Carol Palioudakis<br />
UP TO<br />
€30<br />
Monastiri Taverna<br />
(12 Akti Tompazi, Old<br />
Harbour, tel: 2821 055<br />
527) Delicious Cretan<br />
dishes are offered here,<br />
some with intriguing<br />
names such as The<br />
Nun’s Mistake – order<br />
it to fi nd out what it is.<br />
Crete<br />
(Heraklion)<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €12.<br />
Buses run every 10<br />
minutes to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: €1.10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ouzerie<br />
Terzaki (17 L Marinelli<br />
Street, Heraklion Port,<br />
tel: 2810 221 444)<br />
Recently renovated and<br />
refurnished, this is an<br />
old Cretan favourite.<br />
Specialising in mezedes<br />
(hors d’oeuvres), order<br />
as many as you can<br />
eat, or choose from<br />
main courses such as<br />
smoked salmon pasta.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Elia &<br />
Diosmos (Skalani)<br />
Stylish dining is on offer<br />
at the Elia & Diosmos<br />
(Olive & Mint) restaurant.<br />
Chef Argiro combines<br />
Cretan traditional food<br />
with a modern touch.<br />
Try the baked lamb roll<br />
stuffed with spinach and<br />
cheese – delicious.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Veneto (9 Epimenidou<br />
Street, tel: 2810 227<br />
645) Enjoy a drink<br />
with a view on Café<br />
Veneto’s open-air<br />
terrace, which overlooks<br />
the old Venetian fort<br />
and harbour.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Ice<br />
Factory (Pagopoieon)<br />
(Agios Titos Square,<br />
tel: 2810 346 028) As<br />
the name suggests,<br />
the building is an old,<br />
converted ice factory,<br />
now a popular bar and<br />
restaurant at the heart<br />
of Heraklion’s nightlife.<br />
The lively late-night<br />
venue often features<br />
live bands playing jazz,<br />
rock and Greek music at<br />
the weekend.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The street<br />
market on central 1866<br />
Street has an impressive<br />
array of Cretan products<br />
for sale, including<br />
olive oil, cheeses,<br />
honey, herbs, clothes,<br />
shoes and jewellery<br />
(Monday–Saturday).<br />
GO Korais Street and<br />
the adjoining Agios Titos<br />
Square are at the centre<br />
of the buzzing Heraklion<br />
social scene. Explore a<br />
plethora of pavement<br />
cafés, restaurants and<br />
bars, most of which are<br />
open all day and late<br />
into the night.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The skull of St Titus, the<br />
Patron Saint of Crete,<br />
is kept in the church of<br />
St Titus. When the town<br />
fell to the Turks in 1669,<br />
the saint’s skull was<br />
transported to Venice,<br />
before being returned to<br />
Heraklion in 1966.<br />
Carol Palioudakis<br />
Cyprus<br />
(Larnaca)<br />
Cyprus<br />
DIALLING CODE +357<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ganga<br />
(1 Selinis Street, tel:<br />
24 824 949) A longestablished<br />
Indian<br />
restaurant that offers<br />
elegant dining and an<br />
extensive menu. The<br />
seafood curries are<br />
hugely popular.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Krateon<br />
(21 Kimonos Street,<br />
tel: 24 622 062) If you<br />
want sophisticated,<br />
unhurried dining,<br />
this renovated<br />
grand townhouse<br />
with neo-classic<br />
interiors provides the<br />
perfect setting. A fi ne<br />
international menu is<br />
served including trout<br />
amandine in butter<br />
and lemon sauce with<br />
capers and parsley.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Seagull<br />
(Piale Pasha,<br />
Mackenzie) Welcoming,<br />
friendly, and much<br />
frequented by ex pats,<br />
If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />
and cannot take it with you, visit<br />
‰infl ight.com/emag<br />
‰<br />
Seagull is open seven<br />
days a week and is<br />
ideal for a relaxing<br />
coffee or long drink.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Limits Bar (Dhekelia<br />
Road) Over soothing<br />
R’n’B tunes spun by<br />
the resident DJ, chill<br />
out in the homely<br />
atmosphere over a<br />
sheesha pipe. Later<br />
on the venue livens<br />
up and twenty to<br />
thirtysomethings party<br />
the night away.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Tofarides<br />
Art supplies store<br />
has books, Easter<br />
decorations and cards<br />
and plenty of craft<br />
tidbits to keep the kids<br />
entertained, making<br />
bonnets and painting<br />
eggs while you’re<br />
away (45–47 Zenonos<br />
Kiteos Street).<br />
SEE Throughout<br />
the month (6–30<br />
April) Larnaca hosts<br />
the Festival of<br />
Classical Music with<br />
excellent soloists,<br />
choirs, ensembles<br />
and orchestras from<br />
Cyprus and further<br />
afi eld making an<br />
appearance and<br />
producing fascinating<br />
performances (Larnaca<br />
Municipal Theatre,<br />
Leonida Kioupi Street,<br />
tel: 24 665 795).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
St Lazarus Church has<br />
a Protestant side<br />
of the cemetery, where<br />
a number of graves<br />
of English Consuls<br />
and American<br />
missionaries are laid.<br />
Bev Orton Jennings<br />
00000 EasyJet WEBSITE NEW.indd 1 18/3/10 09:41:25
Cyprus<br />
(Paphos)<br />
Cyprus<br />
DIALLING CODE +357<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Deck (Poseidonos<br />
Avenue, tel: 26 964<br />
104) The stylish Deck<br />
café offers stunning<br />
panoramic views over<br />
the town. Located<br />
in a palm tree-lined<br />
cove, the venue has an<br />
extensive European<br />
menu and drinks list.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Gold<br />
Sakura Japanese<br />
Dining (15–16<br />
Poseiodonos Avenue,<br />
tel: 26 947 492) Ideal<br />
for a special occasion,<br />
quality Japanese cuisine<br />
is served in chic Oriental<br />
surroundings. The menu<br />
has something for<br />
everyone – try the duck<br />
or a little sushi dish.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café Pariz<br />
(Kennedy Square)<br />
A coffee, sandwich and<br />
cake place by day and<br />
a wine bar by night,<br />
centrally located Café<br />
<br />
Pariz is a pleasant,<br />
casual family café.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Faces<br />
(Aliathon Plaza)<br />
An elegant nightclub<br />
with good music, drinks<br />
selection and resident<br />
DJ. Dress code is smartcasual<br />
with clientèle<br />
aged 20 and upwards.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Aphrodite<br />
Delights has truly<br />
Cypriot treats. At this<br />
traditional sweet shop<br />
you’ll fi nd the original<br />
sugared almonds (57<br />
Archbishop Makarios<br />
III Street).<br />
SEE Easter is the most<br />
important festival in<br />
the Orthodox calendar,<br />
this year it falls at the<br />
start of April. Join in<br />
the celebrations taking<br />
place around Paphos.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The goddess of love and<br />
beauty, Aphrodite, was<br />
born a few kilometres<br />
east of Paphos at Petra<br />
tou Romiou.<br />
Lucie Robson/lintv.eu<br />
APHRODITE<br />
HILLS RESORT<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Set on a sloping<br />
hillside with beautiful<br />
sea views and<br />
gorgeous, crystal-clear<br />
swimming-pools, the<br />
Hills Resort is totally<br />
idyllic. From €115, book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Dalaman<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY Lira (YTL)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs YTL20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Akhisar<br />
Kofte Salonu (Ataturk<br />
Cad, Hafi zoglu Otel Alti,<br />
tel: 0252 692 4358) This<br />
excellent new eatery<br />
uses an authentic woodburning<br />
stove, which<br />
emits a lovely smell<br />
through the restaurant.<br />
Try a delicious kebab<br />
and a stunning<br />
homemade dessert.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Leyley<br />
Restaurant (Ortaca<br />
Ile Dalyan Arasinda, tel:<br />
0252 284 4669) Don’t<br />
be surprised if a stork<br />
wanders past your table<br />
at this charming outdoor<br />
restaurant. Leyley<br />
is Turkish for stork,<br />
and nesting birds are<br />
encouraged to roost and<br />
wander by the diners.<br />
Devour exquisite food in<br />
a truly delightful setting.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Marti Cafeteria<br />
(24 Cumhuriet Cad, tel:<br />
0252 692 2093) Stop by<br />
this character-laden little<br />
bar for a cappuccino,<br />
or perhaps a beer and<br />
shish kebab. You’ll fi nd<br />
many a friend there<br />
willing to chat with you.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
M and S Club (Main<br />
Street, Sarigerme, tel:<br />
0252 286 8366) Join<br />
DJ Ismail at this small<br />
disco-club playing the<br />
latest in dance music<br />
till 5am. Don’t miss the<br />
spectacular parties on<br />
weekend nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Ask Cuneyt, the<br />
helpful owner, to assist<br />
you in selecting that<br />
special Easter gift for<br />
your loved one at this<br />
unique, well-established<br />
jewellery outlet, a<br />
favourite with the<br />
world’s rich and famous<br />
(Baget Jewellery, B3<br />
Iskele Meydani, Gocek,<br />
tel: 0252 645 2499).<br />
GO Don’t fancy a dip in<br />
the sea? Then visit the<br />
natural thermal pool at<br />
Fevziye, where the water<br />
is a constant 27ºC, and<br />
is said to cure everything<br />
from psoraisis to<br />
sciatica (Gurukardi Mah,<br />
Kukurtlu Sü, Fevziye, tel:<br />
0252 285 8219).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Where you see the<br />
Alexandria rail station<br />
and a few road-tonowhere<br />
tracks, spare<br />
a thought for the poor<br />
Khedive of Egypt, who<br />
instructed his architects<br />
to build the station<br />
in Egypt in 1906. The<br />
architects reversed the<br />
plans and built a station<br />
in Dalaman instead!<br />
Rod Harrison<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 129<br />
Doncaster<br />
Sheffield<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
from easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Doncaster is<br />
£14 and £42 to Sheffi eld.<br />
The 707 shuttle<br />
bus runs a service<br />
to Doncaster. Tickets:<br />
£3.50 single, £5 return.<br />
National Express<br />
runs services from<br />
Doncaster to Sheffi eld.<br />
From there take the<br />
shuttle bus. Tickets:<br />
£3.90 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Wig &<br />
Pen (Paradise Square,<br />
tel: 0114 276 3988) For<br />
a tasty treat in a local<br />
venue get yourself to<br />
the Wig & Pen, where<br />
the pies come highly<br />
recommended.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Bohemian (53<br />
Chesterfi eld Road,<br />
tel: 0114 255 7797)<br />
Offering locally sourced<br />
and organic coffee,<br />
The Bohemian has a<br />
tempting menu that<br />
includes not only food<br />
and drink but also<br />
relaxing holistic therapy<br />
treatments upstairs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Harley Bar (334<br />
Glossop Road, tel: 0114<br />
275 2288) Famous for<br />
its Irish kitchen and<br />
late-night parties, Harley<br />
Bar draws in all the best<br />
bands, including the<br />
Arctic Monkeys.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Dram Shop<br />
is worth a visit if you’re<br />
a real ale fan or want<br />
a decent bottle of whisky.<br />
The welcoming staff<br />
can help you choose<br />
(21 Commonside, tel:<br />
0114 268 3117).<br />
SEE Re-live Bolero and<br />
other classics with Jane<br />
Torvill and Christopher<br />
Dean’s Dancing On Ice,<br />
the Live Tour (8–11 April,<br />
Sheffi eld Arena).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sheffi eld is home<br />
of Europe’s largest<br />
outdoor artifi cial ski<br />
resort – The Ski Village<br />
(sheffieldskivillage.co.uk).<br />
Gina Davies<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
The Old Vicarage<br />
(Ridgeway Village,<br />
tel: 0114 247 5814)<br />
This Michelin-starred<br />
traditional vicarage<br />
is home to TV chef<br />
Tessa Bramley and<br />
her innovative take<br />
on British cooking.
THE APPRENTICESHIP CHALLENGE QUIZ<br />
Although there are many plus points of going to uni to get a degree there’s pretty much nothing that you<br />
can’t achieve by doing an apprenticeship instead. This quiz is brought to you by notgoingtouni.co.uk the UK’s<br />
leading website dedicated to helping school and college leavers understand the great range of opportunities<br />
that exist outside of the usual university route. Fingers on buzzers teams...<br />
ROUND ONE<br />
YOUR STARTER FOR TEN<br />
1) How many apprenticeships were<br />
started last year?<br />
a) over 23,000 b) over 230,000<br />
c) over 2.3 million<br />
2) How old do you have to be to do<br />
an apprenticeship?<br />
a) 14-22 b) 16 plus c) 18-30<br />
3) How long does an<br />
apprenticeship last?<br />
a) one to ten years b) between one and<br />
four years c) exactly two years<br />
4) What is an advanced apprenticeship<br />
equivalent to?<br />
a) 5 GCSEs b) 5 GCSEs and a cycling<br />
profi ciency c) two A-Level passes<br />
5) What are the course fees for<br />
an apprenticeship?<br />
a) free b) £10k payable on completion of<br />
the course c)£3k signing-on fee<br />
ROUND TWO<br />
AN APPRENTICE OR<br />
NOT AN APPRENTICE?<br />
People tend to think of an<br />
apprenticeship as being available only<br />
for wannabe plumbers or hairdressers,<br />
but over 100,000 employers offer<br />
apprenticeships in thousands of<br />
different areas now and that’s growing<br />
all the time. We’ve put together a list<br />
of jobs and all you have to do is work<br />
out which ones an apprenticeship can<br />
help you get into.<br />
1. Accountant<br />
2. Gamekeeper<br />
3. Photographer<br />
4. Quantity surveyor<br />
5. Special effects expert<br />
6. Veterinary nurse<br />
7. Marketing assistant<br />
8. Web designer<br />
9. Athlete<br />
10. Band manager<br />
ROUND THREE<br />
SHOW ME THE MONEY!<br />
THE APPRENTICESHIPS<br />
EARNINGS ROUND<br />
1) Average weekly earnings for<br />
an apprentice are:<br />
a) Apprentices don’t earn money<br />
b) £100 c) £170<br />
2) Complete this fact:<br />
“If you do an apprenticeship over<br />
the course of your lifetime you<br />
will make...”<br />
a) £100 more than someone unqualifi ed<br />
b) £1000 more than someone unqualifi ed<br />
c) £100,000 more than someone<br />
unqualifi ed<br />
3) What percentage of current<br />
apprentices say that they wouldn’t be<br />
earning their salary level without their<br />
apprenticeship?<br />
a) less than 10% b) more than 75%<br />
c) exactly 100%<br />
Visit notgoingtouni.co.uk to see a great range of jobs,<br />
courses, foundation degrees, advice, case studies and more!<br />
4) What percentage of employers think<br />
apprentices make their<br />
business better?<br />
a) 80% b) 10% c) 72.1%<br />
5) Put these fi ve industry sectors<br />
in order of the highest paid<br />
apprenticeships:<br />
a) Electro-technical<br />
b) Hospitality<br />
c) Customer Service<br />
d) Construction<br />
e) Engineering<br />
Manufacturing<br />
ANSWERS<br />
Round One: 1b, 2b<br />
(although Young<br />
Apprenticeships are<br />
offered for 14-16<br />
year olds) 3b,<br />
4c, 5a. Round<br />
Two: The answer<br />
is there are<br />
apprenticeships<br />
that prepare you<br />
for all of these careers,<br />
surprise! Round Three: 1c,<br />
2c, 3b, 4 a, 5 a/e/c/b/d
Dortmund<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €22.<br />
The Airport<br />
Express bus leaves<br />
every hour. Tickets: €6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ti Zé (2<br />
Altonaer Strasse, tel:<br />
0231 728 1628) Fresh<br />
fi sh and veal, good wines<br />
and football on TV – Ti<br />
Zé is a typical family-run<br />
Portuguese eatery with<br />
good home cooking in<br />
a no-frills atmosphere.<br />
EXCLUSIVE L’Oliva<br />
(1D An der Buschmühle,<br />
tel: 0231 10860) The<br />
candlelit Mediterranean<br />
restaurant inside the<br />
Hilton Hotel is ideal for<br />
special occasions, and is<br />
well-known for its fresh<br />
fi sh dishes. The wine<br />
selection is excellent, too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY El Mundo<br />
(48 Neuer Graben,<br />
Kreuzviertel, tel: 0231<br />
7213474) Relax on the<br />
terrace or sit inside,<br />
below the big map of<br />
the world, while sipping<br />
on a quick coffee or<br />
eating the great-value<br />
tapas and soups.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Barrock (87<br />
Kreuzstrasse,<br />
Kreuzviertel, tel: 0231<br />
206 322) Throughout<br />
the football season<br />
everyone in town crams<br />
in to this bar to enjoy<br />
the party atmosphere.<br />
But even on quiet days<br />
the good selection of<br />
breakfast, lunch and<br />
dinner (served till at<br />
least 11pm) make it<br />
worth a visit.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Fulfi ll all your<br />
choccie cravings at Pott<br />
au Chocolat, where the<br />
edible artworks range<br />
from beautifully crafted<br />
pralines to bars that are<br />
sourced from across the<br />
world, and choc cigars<br />
(99 Hansastrasse,<br />
tel: 0231 4278 6678,<br />
pottauchocolat.de).<br />
GO The 12th-century<br />
moated Haus Dellwig<br />
castle is home to a<br />
museum showing<br />
how people lived and<br />
worked in the early<br />
20th century. It houses<br />
a complete kitchen,<br />
bakery, hair salon,<br />
saddle makers and<br />
more (Heimatmuseum<br />
Lütgendortmund,<br />
130 Dellwiger Strasse,<br />
museum-luedo.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Dortmund’s airport has<br />
seen incredible growth.<br />
From 1998 to 2008, the<br />
number of passengers<br />
increased nearly<br />
fourfold from 610,000<br />
to 2.3 million per year.<br />
Jeroen van Marle/<br />
In Your Pocket<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
Croatia<br />
DIALLING CODE +385<br />
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs HRK200.<br />
Shuttle buses run<br />
from the airport<br />
to the centre. Tickets:<br />
HRK35 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
dance till dawn, this<br />
space in a former paint<br />
factory is open from<br />
10pm–4am with DJs<br />
and a variety of parties.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Buy a gift at Art<br />
Go’Den, an exclusive<br />
Croatian accessories<br />
brand known for its<br />
great leather bags, chic<br />
silk scarves and ties<br />
(34 Iva Dulcica).<br />
SEE Tošo Dabac’s<br />
Scenes from the Street<br />
exhibition, from 3<br />
April at Dubrovnik Art<br />
Gallery, captures the<br />
spirit of the street life<br />
of the 1920s–1930s in<br />
Dubrovnik and other<br />
cities (23 Frana Supila).<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Komin<br />
(136 Iva Dulcica, tel:<br />
020 435 636) A good<br />
spot to try juicy meat<br />
cooked ispod peke<br />
– under an iron bell<br />
heaped with glowing<br />
embers. It’s a traditional<br />
restaurant with a<br />
roaring open fi replace.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Buza<br />
(South of Main Street)<br />
There’s nothing quite<br />
like enjoying a drink here<br />
with an uninterrupted<br />
view of the open sea<br />
and islands. This bar<br />
hugs the rocks on the<br />
southern fringe of the<br />
Old Town peninsula: you<br />
might have to hunt a bit<br />
to fi nd it but it’s worth it.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Factory (3 Vukovarska)<br />
One of the few places<br />
in town where you can<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Lazareti is the name<br />
of an artists’ complex<br />
on Frana Supila, but<br />
did you know that this<br />
lazareti is one of the last<br />
quarantine houses still<br />
standing in Europe from<br />
the time of the plague?<br />
Nataly Anderson/<br />
In Your Pocket<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
Nautika (3 Brsalje, tel:<br />
020 442 526) To say<br />
the service at Nautika<br />
goes the extra mile is<br />
an understatement:<br />
you will feel as if you<br />
have landed in the lap<br />
of luxury. Defi nitely the<br />
place to celebrate.<br />
For all your golfi ng needs<br />
book Gullane Golf Club<br />
Tel: +44 (0) 1620 842 255<br />
www.gullanegolfclub.com<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 131<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Trains to<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Hauptbahnhof leave<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €1.30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Belgo Belga (1<br />
Esperantostrase, tel:<br />
0211 4299 9383) For<br />
the best of Belgium in<br />
Düsseldorf, try this cosy<br />
little bistro. The menu<br />
offers 13 types of Belgian<br />
beer, traditional bistro<br />
dishes and mussels.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tiefenbachers Herzog<br />
von Burgund<br />
(88 Erftstrasse, tel:<br />
0213 123 552) This<br />
charming, art nouveaustyle<br />
gourmet palace is<br />
the perfect place for a<br />
romantic meal. Try the<br />
rack of lamb with bean,<br />
pepper & chilli ragout<br />
– a real treat.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Lido im<br />
Medienhafen (15 Am<br />
Handelshafen, tel: 0211<br />
April offers available. Visitors welcome.<br />
40 minutes from Edinburgh Airport.<br />
1576 8730) This<br />
cube-shaped bar and<br />
restaurant in trendy<br />
Medianhafen has<br />
an unrivalled view of<br />
the river. If the sun is<br />
shining, grab a table on<br />
the outside terrace and<br />
enjoy your drink while<br />
people-watching.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Ufer<br />
8 (8 Rathausufer, tel:<br />
0211 200 5676) Ufer 8<br />
is a versatile club. The<br />
outside terrace is the<br />
perfect spot for chilling<br />
in the sun, or, after dark,<br />
star-gazing to some<br />
cool lounge beats.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you have a<br />
sweet tooth, don’t miss<br />
Snoepjes. This Dutch-<br />
German shop sells sticks<br />
of rock cut into pieces<br />
and sold in bags of 100<br />
– you may need to book<br />
a dentist’s appointment<br />
shortly afterwards<br />
(42 Hoffeldstrasse,<br />
snoepjes.com).<br />
SEE You can see a<br />
major retrospective of<br />
Robert Mapplethorpe’s<br />
photographs at<br />
the NRW-Forum in<br />
Düsseldorf throughout<br />
the month. There’s an<br />
English-speaking tour<br />
on Friday evenings,<br />
too (2 Ehrenhof, nrwforum.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Düsseldorf’s Altstadt is<br />
often referred to as the<br />
longest bar in the world,<br />
due to its 300 plus bars<br />
and clubs. In the evening,<br />
the streets are fi lled with<br />
revellers making the<br />
most of them.<br />
Gaby Pinkner/<br />
rhinemagazine.com
132 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Edinburgh<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £15.<br />
The Airlink 100<br />
service goes to<br />
the centre. Tickets: £6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Mamma’s<br />
Pizza Company (30<br />
Grassmarket, Old<br />
Town, tel: 0131 225<br />
6464) Traditional<br />
American pizza and<br />
panzerotti with an<br />
excellent variety of<br />
toppings and fast,<br />
friendly service. Good<br />
for smaller groups<br />
with a speedy takeaway<br />
counter for meals<br />
on the go.<br />
UP TO €30 Fishers<br />
Bistro (1 The Shore,<br />
Leith, tel: 0131 554<br />
5666) An exceptional<br />
fi sh bistro situated in<br />
a 17th-century signal<br />
tower on the edge<br />
of old Leith harbour.<br />
There’s a cosy dining<br />
area with the option of<br />
eating in the bar, but<br />
the big draw is the fi sh<br />
menu which changes<br />
according to the<br />
previous day’s catch.<br />
UP TO €50 Maison<br />
Bleue (36–38 Victoria<br />
Street, Old Town, tel:<br />
0131 226 1900) This<br />
French restaurant has<br />
strong North African<br />
infl uences in its menu<br />
and makes stylish and<br />
surprisingly light use<br />
of the stone arching of<br />
its Old Town interiors.<br />
Local sourcing gives a<br />
fresh Scottish twist to<br />
the spicy and succulent<br />
Mediterranean dishes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Forth<br />
Floor Restaurant<br />
(Harvey Nichols, 30<br />
St Andrew Square,<br />
New Town, tel: 0131<br />
524 8350) While the<br />
backdrop of rooftop<br />
views to the Firth of<br />
Forth and the Castle<br />
from Harvey Nics’<br />
in-house restaurant<br />
is expansive, it boasts<br />
a small but perfectly<br />
formed menu of light<br />
and expertly created<br />
dishes. Discrete and<br />
attentive waiting staff<br />
add to an ambience<br />
of exclusivity.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
The Cask & Barrel<br />
(115 Broughton Street,<br />
New Town, tel: 0131<br />
556 3132) A spacious<br />
and convivial real ale<br />
pub with a traditional<br />
island bar, basic<br />
food and several big<br />
screens. It’s also a<br />
popular pre-match<br />
meeting-point for<br />
football and rugbymad<br />
fans.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Jazz<br />
Bar (1A Chambers<br />
Street, Old Town,<br />
tel: 0131 220 4298)<br />
Excellent, intimate and<br />
über-cool sum up this<br />
basement venue with<br />
live bands and DJs<br />
playing all kinds of jazzinfl<br />
uenced music late<br />
in to the night. Get<br />
there early – there’s<br />
a small door-charge<br />
after 8.30pm.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Bongo Club<br />
(Moray House, 37<br />
Holyrood Road, Old<br />
Town, tel: 0131 558<br />
7604) Alternative club<br />
and live music venue<br />
which attracts the<br />
kind of arty, studentorientated<br />
crowd which<br />
knows it’s living life<br />
on the cutting edge<br />
of cool.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Unique<br />
designer one-offs<br />
created from cut-up<br />
and cut-out vintage<br />
clothing and other<br />
weird and wonderful<br />
materials by Joey-D<br />
on the premises. If it<br />
doesn’t fi t, he’ll keeping<br />
on altering it until<br />
it does (Joey-D, 54<br />
Broughton Street, tel:<br />
0131 557 6672).<br />
SEE A spectacular<br />
outdoor exhibition is<br />
displayed in St Andrew<br />
Square by awardwinning<br />
photographer<br />
Steve Bloom. Running<br />
for the whole month,<br />
it is the big event of<br />
this year’s Science<br />
Festival. Elsewhere,<br />
220 events run in 35<br />
venues around the<br />
city from 3–17 April.<br />
(sciencefestival.co.uk).<br />
GO Looming over<br />
Edinburgh, Arthur’s<br />
Seat provides a quick<br />
escape into the wilds.<br />
A gentle amble up<br />
Salisbury Crags gives<br />
a fantastic perspective<br />
on the sweep of the Old<br />
Town from the castle<br />
down to Holyrood<br />
– although the effort of<br />
climbing to the summit<br />
is rewarded with much<br />
further views.<br />
ESCAPE Melrose,<br />
the home of Rugby-7s<br />
on the River Tweed, is<br />
an hour’s drive to the<br />
south of Edinburgh. A<br />
good start or end point<br />
for a day walking and<br />
exploring the Scottish<br />
Borders, the town is a<br />
magnet for cashmere<br />
wool fans.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
<br />
<br />
FRASER<br />
SUITES<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
A new boutique<br />
hotel housed within<br />
an historic building,<br />
with fi ne touches<br />
such as specially<br />
commissioned art.<br />
From €109, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
First estimates for<br />
building Scotland’s<br />
new parliament at<br />
Holyrood were put at<br />
£50 million in 1998<br />
when Enric Miralles,<br />
the Spanish architect,<br />
was appointed. A fi gure<br />
which rose to £414<br />
million by the time it<br />
was opened in 2004.<br />
Thom Dibdin<br />
Faro<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your<br />
taxi at easyJet.<br />
com. The fare to Faro is<br />
about €10, Vilamoura<br />
€25, and Albufeira and<br />
Tavira €40.<br />
Eva buses go to<br />
various cities.<br />
Tickets to Faro: €2.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 DAC Cafe<br />
(Autodromo do Algarve,<br />
near Portimao) With<br />
traditional dishes of<br />
the day, great salads<br />
and sandwiches, and<br />
the chance of bumping<br />
into international<br />
motor-racing teams,<br />
this is the perfect<br />
pit-stop for ravenous<br />
petrol-heads.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
3 Wonders (Alto do<br />
Relogio, Loulé, tel: 289<br />
462 838) Austrian<br />
patisserie by day,<br />
international cuisine in<br />
the evening, and tapas<br />
anytime. It’s hard to<br />
decide which is the<br />
trump card here: the<br />
panoramic terrace or<br />
the Kaiserschmarren<br />
dessert with apple<br />
sauce – yum.<br />
UP TO €50 Mar a<br />
Vista (Praia da Mareta,<br />
Sagres, tel: 282 624<br />
247) Great sea views<br />
complement Mar<br />
a Vista’s excellent<br />
fi sh and shellfi sh<br />
specialities, which<br />
include lobster pasta,<br />
crab, and locally caught<br />
barnacles and turbot.<br />
The wine list is<br />
pretty good, too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Casa do<br />
Lago (Quinta do Lago,<br />
Almancil, tel: 289 394<br />
911) Former Conran<br />
chef John Nolan has<br />
put his own stamp<br />
on this refurbished<br />
lakeside venue with<br />
Pacifi c Rim specialities<br />
such as oysters with<br />
wasabi, fi sh roe and<br />
steamed crayfi sh in<br />
chilli and coriander.<br />
Couleur France (Vale<br />
de Eguas, Almancil, tel:<br />
289 399 515) Modern,<br />
bright and minimalist,<br />
Couleur France serves<br />
some of the best food<br />
to hit the Algarve in<br />
years. The eclectic<br />
and satisfying evening<br />
menu keeps repeat<br />
business high and you<br />
can enjoy the outside<br />
terrace on warm<br />
evenings. Try the rack<br />
of lamb stuffed with<br />
foie gras. There’s<br />
a great wine list, too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY A Rosa<br />
dos Ventos (Praça<br />
da Republica, Sagres,<br />
tel: 282 624 480) This<br />
friendly bar in the main<br />
square attracts an<br />
international crowd,<br />
and is the perfect<br />
starting point for<br />
a night on the town.
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134 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Faro<br />
Portugal<br />
LIVE MUSIC Mitic<br />
(Avenida Comandante<br />
Matoso, Sagres)<br />
Nocturnal surf dudes<br />
pack into this cocktail<br />
bar year-round to be<br />
entertained by top DJs<br />
and live local bands. In<br />
a sublime setting enjoy<br />
stunning sea views and<br />
crashing waves – if you<br />
can hear them over the<br />
drums, that is.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Topas Disco (Sitio<br />
da Botelha, Sagres)<br />
Round off the night<br />
with some thumping<br />
music and an extensive<br />
drinks selection. If<br />
you’re staying at the<br />
campsite, it’s only a<br />
short stagger home.<br />
T Clube (Buganvilia<br />
Plaza, Quinta do Lago,<br />
tel: 289 396 751) Piano<br />
bar, Japanese restaurant,<br />
lounge garden and latenight<br />
disco that draws<br />
a crowd spanning the<br />
age spectrum. Top DJs<br />
grace the turntables<br />
at one of the Algarve’s<br />
hippest places.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP There’s a wide<br />
variety of paintings<br />
and photographs from<br />
Algarve-based artists<br />
of all nationalities on<br />
sale at Londot Gallery in<br />
Almancil, including work<br />
by Joao Viegas, Jessica<br />
Dunn, John Lamonby<br />
and Meinke Flesseman<br />
(tel: 289 397340).<br />
SHOP Indulge your<br />
Easter egg cravings<br />
at the bijoux Praliné<br />
Chocolateria. It sells<br />
selection boxes, hot<br />
chocolate and even<br />
chocolate-scented<br />
bath products (12A<br />
Urbanización Quinta<br />
de Betunes, Jardins<br />
de Loulé).<br />
SEE Witness an unusual<br />
ceremony in São Bras<br />
de Alportel on Easter<br />
Sunday, when locals<br />
with decorated torches<br />
run through the streets<br />
before laying fl owers on<br />
the church fl oor. This<br />
year the celebration falls<br />
on 4 April.<br />
GO The historic border<br />
town of Alcoutim has<br />
seen the Phoenicians,<br />
Greeks, Romans and<br />
Moors come and go.<br />
Take a cruise along<br />
the Guadiana river or<br />
just admire the views<br />
across into Spain.<br />
ESCAPE Get a<br />
bird’s-eye view of the<br />
spectacular Algarve<br />
coast with a helicopter<br />
trip courtesy of Algarve<br />
Helicopters – you can<br />
even take the controls<br />
if your nerve holds<br />
(Aerodromo Municipal<br />
de Portimão, tel: 282<br />
496 770).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Portuguese Liberation<br />
Day falls on 25 April and<br />
celebrates the Carnation<br />
Revolution. A peaceful<br />
protest, it got its name<br />
after women put the<br />
fl owers in soldiers’ rifl es.<br />
Paul Rouse/<br />
inspirationsalgarve.com<br />
Quality Products<br />
at the Best Prices Online<br />
Delivered throughout the Algarve<br />
BED LINEN • TOWELS • BATH ROBES<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Corralejo is<br />
€60, Caleta de Fuste €15<br />
and Costa Calma €90.<br />
Route 3 goes to<br />
Caleta de Fuste.<br />
Tickets: €1.40. Route 6<br />
buses to Corralejo run<br />
every hour. Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Factoria (3 Paseo<br />
Maritimo, Corralejo,<br />
tel: 92 853 5726) A<br />
seafront café serving a<br />
wide variety of dishes,<br />
from English breakfasts<br />
to traditional Canarian<br />
cuisine. Fresh pasta is<br />
a speciality and there’s<br />
a range of vegetarian<br />
options, too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurant Yamatori<br />
(Bahia Real Hotel,<br />
Avenida Grandes<br />
Playas, Corralejo, tel:<br />
92 853 6444) Located<br />
in a fi ve-star hotel, this<br />
excellent Japanese<br />
restaurant has a sushi<br />
bar and a teppanyaki<br />
area, where the food is<br />
prepared and cooked on<br />
a table-size hotplate.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Blue<br />
Rock (Calle Iglesia,<br />
Corralejo) Popular with<br />
residents and tourists<br />
alike, and overlooking<br />
the old square, this is<br />
a great place to catch<br />
the last rays before<br />
heading off for a night<br />
of clubbing.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bubbles (Lower Floor,<br />
Centro Comercial<br />
Atlántico, Corralejo)<br />
A popular gay bar that<br />
welcomes all and is not<br />
to be missed. It has<br />
quirky theme nights,<br />
including fancy dress,<br />
and the parties usually<br />
last till 4am.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Visit the local<br />
market in Caleta de<br />
Fuste every Saturday<br />
morning, where you<br />
can rummage among<br />
great local crafts,<br />
fashions and fantastic<br />
leather goods.<br />
SEE During Easter<br />
week various local<br />
processions are held in<br />
the major towns. Visit<br />
Tiscamaita (Tuineje)<br />
on Sunday 25 April,<br />
when the fi esta de<br />
San Marcos takes<br />
place. Expect tasty<br />
local cuisine and lively<br />
entertainment.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Puerto de Cabra was<br />
the former name of<br />
the capital, Puerto de<br />
Rosario. The name was<br />
changed in 1956, but<br />
no-one really knows<br />
why as the goat (cabra)<br />
remains the offi cial<br />
symbol of the island.<br />
Penny Melville<br />
Geneva<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs CHF50.<br />
Trains go to<br />
Cornavin station.<br />
Tickets: CHF7.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Boulangerie Eric<br />
Emery (42 Rue<br />
de Moillebeau, tel:<br />
022 733 4265) This<br />
bakery comes highly<br />
recommended by<br />
those in the know.<br />
Its beautifully baked,<br />
traditional-style<br />
breads are perfect<br />
for a leisurely Sunday<br />
breakfast. Try the fi g<br />
bread, or something<br />
a little sweeter if<br />
you’re feeling naughty.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Café de la Mairie<br />
(48 Ancienne-Route,<br />
tel: 022 798 0727)<br />
This pretty, modern<br />
bistro set in a<br />
converted old house<br />
serves up a French<br />
menu with a tasty<br />
touch of Italian. Its<br />
risotto of foie gras and<br />
courgette is a dish well<br />
worth sampling.<br />
UP TO €50 Café des<br />
Bains (26 Rue des<br />
Bains, tel: 022 321<br />
5798) Popular with<br />
the media crowd, this<br />
fashionable restaurant<br />
serves seasonal Asian-<br />
Mediterranean fusion<br />
food. The menu varies<br />
according to where the<br />
owner has travelled<br />
recently and what<br />
has inspired her while<br />
globetrotting.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Les<br />
Fourneaux du<br />
Manège (127 Route de<br />
Chancy, tel: 022 870<br />
0390) Located just<br />
outside of town in<br />
leafy Onex, the<br />
restaurant of 19thcentury<br />
estate La<br />
Maison Rochette<br />
boasts local<br />
specialities, with an<br />
emphasis on delicious<br />
freshwater fi sh from<br />
the neighbouring lake.<br />
Arabesque (47 Quai<br />
Wilson, tel: 022 906<br />
6666) A regular<br />
in the Gault Millau<br />
guide, this restaurant<br />
more than lives up to<br />
CHALET<br />
DOCTORS<br />
If you just can’t get<br />
enough of the Alps<br />
and you’re looking<br />
to buy a house out<br />
here, call on the<br />
Chalet Doctors to see<br />
if they can help you<br />
fi nd the perfect place<br />
(chaletdoctors.com).<br />
www.linen-etc.com<br />
Portugal: +351 282 697 791<br />
UK: +44 845 862 0443<br />
BEDSPREADS • THROWS & CURTAINS
its reputation, with<br />
delicious Lebanese<br />
food and some of the<br />
best lake views in town.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Les Salons<br />
des Théophile (13<br />
Rue de la Cité, tel:<br />
022 310 3023) While<br />
wandering around the<br />
Old Town, pop into this<br />
wine and cocktail bar.<br />
A popular starting<br />
point for a night out,<br />
it also offers tasty early<br />
evening tapas, too.<br />
LIVE MUSIC The<br />
Palladium (3 Rue du<br />
Stand, tel: 022 329<br />
7129) Specialising<br />
in Latino music<br />
and concerts, the<br />
Palladium’s dancefl oor<br />
is always packed and<br />
there is a friendly<br />
welcome for all. Get<br />
those hips moving to<br />
some Cuban salsa.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Chic (3 Rue de<br />
Fribourg, tel: 022 732<br />
0430) Quirky new<br />
lounge-bar in the hip<br />
Paquis district. Expect<br />
DJs on the electro tip<br />
plus the occasional<br />
cabaret or live jazz<br />
show, too.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Geneva has its<br />
own chocolate-making<br />
dynasty. Auer has<br />
been making chocolate<br />
since 1820, and is<br />
famed for its almond<br />
slabs and handmade<br />
fresh truffl es. Be sure<br />
to pick up a box of<br />
Pavé Glacé of<br />
Geneva, a chocolate<br />
created by Henri Auer<br />
way back in 1940<br />
(chocolat-auer.ch).<br />
SHOP Jump on<br />
the bus to Balexert,<br />
a magnifi cent mall<br />
packed with stores and<br />
boutiques, restaurants<br />
and bars, and even a<br />
multi-screen cinema (27<br />
Avenue Louis Casai).<br />
SEE The Exhibition of<br />
Inventions is the world’s<br />
largest marketplace<br />
for inventors, with<br />
more than 600<br />
exhibitors. Each year<br />
1,000 completely new<br />
inventions are revealed<br />
to the public. Catch<br />
it at Palexpo from<br />
21–25 April (inventionsgeneva.ch).<br />
GO Jardin Botanique is<br />
a great place to escape<br />
to for a long springtime<br />
stroll through<br />
the lush gardens, or a<br />
little light lunch in its<br />
terraced café, which<br />
is always popular with<br />
the local UN workers<br />
(prospecierara.ch).<br />
ESCAPE Lausanne<br />
is home to the<br />
International Olympic<br />
Committee, whose<br />
museum displays<br />
highlights of the games<br />
over the years. Wander<br />
along the charming<br />
Ouchy waterfront for<br />
a coffee and crêpe or<br />
head to the hip Flon<br />
area, which is packed<br />
with cool bars and<br />
shops – it’s all just<br />
45 minutes from<br />
Geneva’s main station.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Geneva’s landmark,<br />
the jet d’eau, projects<br />
half a cubic metre of<br />
water per second in<br />
spurts that reach up<br />
to 140 metres high!<br />
Celeste Neill-Duvoisin<br />
Gibraltar<br />
UK Territory<br />
DIALLING CODE +350<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £5.<br />
Routes 3, 9 and<br />
10 run every 10<br />
minutes. Tickets: £0.90.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Gatsby’s (Phase One,<br />
Watergardens, tel:<br />
200 76291) This<br />
down-to-earth<br />
restaurant specialises<br />
in Italian dishes,<br />
including pasta and<br />
risotto, fi sh and meat<br />
choices. The outside<br />
terrace is pleasant on<br />
a warm spring evening.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Kamakura (Carretera<br />
de Cádiz 127, San<br />
Roque, tel: 95 661<br />
3030) Top-end<br />
dining choices are<br />
unfortunately quite<br />
limited on the Rock, so<br />
consider taking a short<br />
drive to this excellent<br />
Japanese restaurant<br />
at the San Roque Golf<br />
Club. The hibachi-style<br />
cuisine includes such<br />
specialities as chicken<br />
teriyaki, sashimi and,<br />
of course, sushi.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Barbary<br />
Bar (The Rock Hotel,<br />
3 Europa Road, tel:<br />
200 73000) On a<br />
warm evening, this<br />
bar’s appropriately<br />
named Wisteria Terrace<br />
provides one of the<br />
most stunning settings<br />
on the Rock, with<br />
views of Africa across<br />
the straits and palms,<br />
plants and rich purple<br />
wisteria, of course.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Portobello (107 Gabriel<br />
Miro, La Linea de la<br />
Concepción, tel: 95<br />
678 4138) If you fancy<br />
a proper disco, then<br />
pop over the border to<br />
this local institution in<br />
La Linea, which boasts<br />
a big capacity and a<br />
healthy mix of Latin and<br />
contemporary beats.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Rock’s<br />
latest marina<br />
development,<br />
Ocean Village, has a<br />
sophisticated strut<br />
of shops, as well as<br />
plenty of tempting bars<br />
and restaurants.<br />
GO Gibraltar’s second<br />
International Boat<br />
Show (8–11 April) will<br />
take place at the Ocean<br />
Village marina. As<br />
well as the impressive<br />
display of boats, there<br />
will be a classic car<br />
exhibit, fashion shows,<br />
live music and a bouncy<br />
castle for the kids.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Rock is home to<br />
over 200 macaques,<br />
the only primates living<br />
in the wild in Europe.<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 135<br />
Glasgow<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £17.<br />
Arriva Glasgow<br />
Flyer Bus leaves<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
Tickets: £4.20 single;<br />
£6.50 open return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 All Bar<br />
One (56–72 St Vincent<br />
Street, tel: 0141 229<br />
6060) This is a great<br />
venue for drinking,<br />
dining, and above all,<br />
relaxing. There’s a<br />
FRASER<br />
SUITES<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This luxury hotel,<br />
with its renovated<br />
Victorian façade and<br />
elegant ambience, is<br />
located at the heart<br />
of Merchant City.<br />
From €101, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
ENJOY RETIREMENT WITH A RESIDENTS PERMIT IN SWITZERLAND<br />
Visit our website for more info:<br />
For your retirement in the heart of the<br />
Swiss Alps, invest in a dream chalet or<br />
apartment directly from the builder<br />
GK construction – Gestion SA | CH 1884 Villars-sur-Ollon | Tel: +41 24 495 15 33 | Mob: +41 79 214 32 25 | Email: sales@swiss-properties.ch<br />
simple and stylish food<br />
menu, a good wine<br />
list, beer selection and<br />
range of long drinks<br />
and spirits. It provides<br />
a welcome break from<br />
shopping or sightseeing<br />
and boasts a superb<br />
central location.<br />
UP TO €30 Guy’s<br />
Restaurant & Bar (24<br />
Candleriggs, Merchant<br />
City, tel: 0141 552 1114)<br />
A really lovely place to<br />
have a meal, offering<br />
a wonderful variety of<br />
food, from Italian to<br />
Scottish dishes, plus<br />
great sushi. Live jazz<br />
at the weekend<br />
completes the picture.<br />
UP TO €50 Red<br />
Onion (257 West<br />
Campbell Street, tel:<br />
0141 221 6000) A smart<br />
restaurant with a relaxed<br />
and friendly atmosphere,<br />
and contemporarycasual<br />
dining with<br />
something for everyone.<br />
Open seven days a week<br />
from 11am.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Michael<br />
Caines at Abode<br />
(129 Bath Street, tel:<br />
0141 221 6789) This<br />
chic, award-winning<br />
restaurant is one of<br />
Glasgow’s premier<br />
eateries. Enjoy<br />
sensational food,<br />
impeccable service and<br />
a fantastic, reasonably<br />
priced wine list.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Drum &<br />
Monkey (93 St Vincent<br />
Street, tel: 0141 221<br />
6636) A comfortably<br />
furnished bar with<br />
intimate booths, this<br />
is the perfect place<br />
to unwind after a<br />
hectic day’s shopping<br />
Security<br />
Discretion<br />
Very good quality of life
136 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Glasgow<br />
UK<br />
on nearby bustling<br />
Buchanan Street.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Barrowlands (244<br />
Gallowgate, tel: 0141 552<br />
4601) The world-famous<br />
Barrowlands has had<br />
some of the most<br />
famous acts onstage<br />
– the legendary venue<br />
just oozes charisma.<br />
April sees Charlie and<br />
the Boys (2nd), Dropkick<br />
Murphys (12th) and<br />
Black Rebel Motorcycle<br />
Club (16th) treading<br />
the boards.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Buff Club (142<br />
Bath Lane, tel: 0141<br />
248 1777) Clubbing<br />
afi cionados will love the<br />
vintage disco, funk and<br />
soul hits spinning on the<br />
decks here. Open from<br />
10.30pm–3am at the<br />
weekend – go on, let<br />
your hair down!<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Fat Buddha is a<br />
funky shop that is more<br />
art gallery than high<br />
street. Rails of trendy<br />
clothes stand alongside<br />
unusual toys and a<br />
terrifi c book collection.<br />
It’s a really cool place to<br />
check out and there’s<br />
even coffee served onsite<br />
(21 Bath Street, tel:<br />
0141 332 2208).<br />
SEE Glasgow<br />
International Festival of<br />
Visual Arts takes place<br />
every other year, and<br />
comprises dynamic,<br />
groundbreaking<br />
presentations in<br />
contemporary visual<br />
art practice, across<br />
a range of exhibitions,<br />
public projects, talks,<br />
performances and<br />
screenings by both<br />
local and international<br />
artists. This year the<br />
event takes place<br />
from 16 April–3 May<br />
(tel: 0141 287<br />
8994, glasgow<br />
international.org).<br />
GO Trongate and<br />
around King Street are<br />
more commonly known<br />
as the Glasgow Cross<br />
– the area is crammed<br />
with contemporary<br />
art galleries, comic<br />
shops, studios, model<br />
shops, cafés and<br />
eateries. Also nearby<br />
and unmissable are the<br />
famous Barrowland fl ea<br />
market, Tron Theatre<br />
and Glasgow Green.<br />
ESCAPE Visit the<br />
cottage in Alloway<br />
where Scotland’s<br />
best-loved poet, Robert<br />
Burns, was born. Walk<br />
across the Brig O’Doon<br />
and see the world’s<br />
most important Burns<br />
collection at<br />
the Robert Burns<br />
National Heritage Park,<br />
only a few miles from<br />
the bustling seaside<br />
town of Ayr (tel: 01292<br />
443 700, burnsheritage<br />
park.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The world famous<br />
Glasgow Green became<br />
Europe’s fi rst public<br />
park way back in 1814.<br />
Evelyn McKechnie<br />
Gran Canaria<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
Route 60 runs<br />
to Parque Santa<br />
Catalina and Parque San<br />
Telmo. Tickets: €2.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Hooters<br />
(Centro Comercial Anexo<br />
II, Playa del Inglés, tel:<br />
928 763 008) Have fun<br />
at Hooters Americanstyle<br />
diner, try the buffalo<br />
chicken wings, tasty<br />
burgers or quesadillas,<br />
washed down with an ice<br />
cold beer and served by<br />
some of the sexiest girls<br />
on the island.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La Toja<br />
(Avenida Tirajana, Playa<br />
del Inglés, tel: 928<br />
761 196) For special<br />
occasions this is one of<br />
the fi nest restaurants<br />
around. Beautifully<br />
decorated, with attentive<br />
staff, it boasts a mouthwatering<br />
menu. Sample<br />
the spiny lobster salad,<br />
then savour the famous<br />
oven-roasted spring<br />
lamb and fi nish with<br />
fl ambéed strawberries<br />
and Drambuie.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY 007<br />
Cocktail Bar (2nd<br />
Floor, Centro Comercial<br />
Puerto Rico, Main<br />
Square) Have the fi rst<br />
drink of the night in a<br />
laidback atmosphere<br />
with friendly staff and<br />
reasonably priced,<br />
tasty cocktails.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Disco Jokers (Puerto<br />
Rico Shopping Centre)<br />
Dance until dawn in<br />
one of the wildest<br />
discos in Puerto Rico<br />
with top international<br />
DJs in a cosmopolitan<br />
atmosphere with<br />
elegant surroundings.<br />
Here, every night is<br />
party night!<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Visanta in<br />
the Yumbo Shopping<br />
Center, is where you<br />
should head if you are<br />
looking to replace your<br />
camera or mp3 player.<br />
The vast electronic<br />
store has a wide<br />
selection of stock and<br />
all at the cheapest euro<br />
prices (Playa del Inglés).<br />
SEE For a cheesy affair<br />
head to Santa Maria de<br />
Guia’s annual cheese<br />
festival. This year the<br />
event falls on 23 April<br />
and there will be lots of<br />
dancing, local wines and<br />
of course, the star of the<br />
show... cheese.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Gran Canaria was<br />
populated by the<br />
Guanches from 3000<br />
BC, who called it<br />
Tamarán, but was<br />
claimed by Spain in<br />
the 15th century.<br />
Jan Cooney<br />
TREAT YOUR FAMILY TO THE FREEDOM OF RENTAL.<br />
Grenoble<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €80.<br />
Catch the Altitude<br />
line bus to the<br />
centre. Tickets: €12.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le Petit<br />
Paris (2 Cours Jean<br />
Jaures, tel: 04 7646<br />
0051) Esteve Sylvain’s<br />
gorgeous cuisine may<br />
look too pretty to eat, but<br />
one bite of the braised<br />
lamb or almond nougat<br />
will change your mind.<br />
RESIDHOTEL<br />
GRENETTE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This hotel is perfectly<br />
located near one of<br />
Grenoble’s liveliest<br />
squares and at the<br />
foot of the Chartreuse<br />
Mountains. From<br />
€81, book at holidays.<br />
easyJet.com.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Fantin Latour (1 Rue<br />
du Général de Beylié,<br />
tel: 04 7601 0097)<br />
Tucked behind a grand<br />
architectural exterior<br />
lies the colourful world<br />
of chef Stéphane<br />
Froidevaux. Inspired<br />
by nature, his playful<br />
creations include<br />
saffron-infused shellfi sh<br />
with blue cheese.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La Boîte à<br />
Sardines (1 Place de<br />
Claveyson, tel: 04 7644<br />
2784) It’s nearly warm<br />
enough for cocktails on<br />
the patio at this chilledout<br />
bar. The former<br />
dairy’s bay windows<br />
are still intact.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
K Doc (29 Rue Pierre<br />
Sembard, tel: 04 7649<br />
9555) This cool but<br />
pricey club is frequented<br />
by students and young<br />
professionals. With its<br />
Moroccan mosaic walls<br />
and regularly changing<br />
line-up, it’s no wonder<br />
the dancefl oor’s heaving.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A cross between<br />
a record shop and<br />
comic book store, Harry<br />
Morgan’s is a great place<br />
to spend an afternoon<br />
browsing (10 Rue Millet,<br />
tel: 04 7656 2666).<br />
GO Wander through<br />
Grenoble’s Antiques<br />
Quarter, starting at<br />
the astounding Place<br />
Verdun, browsing all the<br />
antique shops.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Grenoble is the hydroelectric<br />
centre of France.<br />
Anya Pope<br />
Renting a car with us for the<br />
fi rst time? Europcar guarantees<br />
you great car rental deals.<br />
Visit the Europcar desk<br />
or book at<br />
easyJet.com
138 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Hamburg<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €22.<br />
S1 S-Bahn trains<br />
run frequently<br />
until just after midnight.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Vlet<br />
(23–24 Am Sandtorkai,<br />
tel: 040 3347 53750)<br />
The city’s neo-Gothic<br />
warehouse district is<br />
now home to Vlet, a<br />
rousing ode to north<br />
German cuisine<br />
helmed by famous chef<br />
Thomas Sampl.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Schlachterbörse (42<br />
Kampstrasse, tel: 040<br />
436 543) This nostalgic<br />
1930s-era haunt is<br />
popular with celebrities<br />
and carnivores who<br />
come for heaping oldschool<br />
portions such as<br />
the perfectly prepared<br />
200g-rump steak.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bedford<br />
Café (72 Schulterblatt,<br />
tel: 040 4318 8432)<br />
Join students and the<br />
after-work crowd on<br />
the outdoor benches or<br />
amid the old interior of<br />
this popular corner-side<br />
Schanzenviertel bar.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Love<br />
(4 Grosse Freiheit)<br />
Bathed in a burgundy<br />
red and juxtaposed<br />
with timeless brick,<br />
the rollicking Hamburg<br />
outpost of the Love<br />
nightclubs features<br />
everything from funk and<br />
electro to urban hip hop.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Hamburg’s<br />
admittedly modest<br />
answer to Savile<br />
Row tailors consist<br />
of a trio of bespoke<br />
purveyors with stores<br />
dotted around the<br />
city, including Lewin<br />
(lewin-hamburg.<br />
de), Herr von Eden<br />
(herrvoneden.com) and<br />
Dolzer (dolzer.de), who<br />
have been furnishing<br />
the sartorially clued-up<br />
since 1963.<br />
GO Fresh off a recent<br />
facelift, the city’s<br />
waterfront boulevard,<br />
Jungfernstieg, with its<br />
rows of silver linden<br />
trees and granite<br />
seating areas has been<br />
restored to its pre-war<br />
glory. Dating back to<br />
1235, the promenade<br />
is also where visitors<br />
can purchase tickets<br />
for Alsterschippern: the<br />
popular canal boat trips.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Crossing the<br />
innumerable tributaries<br />
and canals that<br />
interlace the city are<br />
more than 2,400<br />
bridges – that’s<br />
more than Berlin,<br />
Amsterdam or Venice.<br />
Farhad Heydari<br />
Helsinki<br />
Finland<br />
DIALLING CODE +358<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
Route 615 runs<br />
to Rautatientori.<br />
Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
turbot and pigeons are<br />
all on the menu.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Ahjo<br />
(Klaus K Hotel, 2–4<br />
Bulevardi, tel: 020 770<br />
4711) Extremely stylish<br />
Ahjo is situated inside<br />
the Klaus K designer<br />
hotel and is the perfect<br />
place for a cocktail<br />
sundowner.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kaarle XII (40<br />
Kasarmikatu, tel: 020<br />
770 1470) This huge<br />
and very popular<br />
nightclub is a must if<br />
you’re in to European<br />
chart tunes or want to<br />
hear what Finnish pop<br />
music sounds like.<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Zetor<br />
(3–5 Mannerheimintie,<br />
tel: 010 766 4450)<br />
This restaurant<br />
bizarrely claimed to<br />
be the offi cial sponsor<br />
of tractor men and<br />
women since 1991.<br />
It’s decorated with<br />
tractors and even has<br />
tractorman’s steak on<br />
the menu. Locals argue<br />
that the place has a lot<br />
of character and you’ll<br />
soon be in agreement.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Chez<br />
Dominique (4<br />
Rikhardinkatu, tel: 09<br />
612 7393) Minimalist<br />
Chez Dominique is one<br />
of the best restaurants<br />
in town and the place<br />
not to be missed if you<br />
want to splash the cash<br />
on a beyond-ordinary<br />
mix of Nordic and French<br />
cuisine. Quail eggs,<br />
duck liver, lobster tails,<br />
scallops, king crabs,<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The<br />
Akateeminen<br />
Kirjakauppa inside<br />
Stockmann department<br />
store was designed by<br />
cult Finnish architect<br />
Alvar Aalto. With 100,000<br />
books on sale, it’s one of<br />
the largest bookstores in<br />
the world (1 Keskuskatu<br />
akateeminen.com).<br />
GO The beautiful green<br />
park Esplanadi, fringed<br />
with two magnifi cent<br />
streets is Helsinki’s<br />
Champs-Elysées and<br />
is packed with cafés<br />
and restaurants. The<br />
place also serves as<br />
the centre of Helsinki’s<br />
cultural life.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Little Harrin Nakki fastfood<br />
booth is famous in<br />
Helsinki, and the locals<br />
swear Finnish president<br />
Tarja Halonen is its<br />
regular customer.<br />
Evgenia Ivanova<br />
Hurghada<br />
Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Sakalla is<br />
EGP15, El Dahar EGP20,<br />
and further afi eld EGP30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
L’Imperatore<br />
(Hurghada Marina)<br />
A great Italian eatery,<br />
which serves pizzas with<br />
a view of the marina.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Upstairs<br />
(El Gouna, tel: 012 661<br />
0867) Stylish interiors,<br />
and a superb selection<br />
THE EIFFEL<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
From this lovely hotel<br />
you can wander along<br />
to the best beaches<br />
around, or just stay<br />
on the sun loungers<br />
and relax by the pool.<br />
From €33, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Are you interested in advertising to<br />
4.5m passengers per month?<br />
Please contact our advertising sales team<br />
on 0044 (0) 207 613 8795<br />
of dishes from<br />
Scandinavian chefs are<br />
all on the menu here.<br />
Fish dishes are excellent,<br />
as are the desserts.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Shade<br />
Bar & Grill (Hurghada<br />
International Marina)<br />
An ultra-modern set up<br />
where you can enjoy<br />
marina views from your<br />
bean bag. Boasts a full<br />
bar and tasty snacks.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cacao Bar (El Dahar,<br />
tel: 012 618 4861) As<br />
addictive as chocolate,<br />
Cacao Bar is open late<br />
every evening. It has drink<br />
discounts to lure in the<br />
crowds and friendly staff.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP From cosmetics,<br />
to accessories, shoes,<br />
sportswear, souvenirs,<br />
fast food and designer<br />
teas – Senzo Mall has<br />
it all. Plus, it’s open<br />
from 10am–1am.<br />
SEE The Sham El-<br />
Nessim festival signifying<br />
the arrival of spring is<br />
a uniquely Egyptian<br />
tradition practised since<br />
the days of the Pharaohs.<br />
Everyone celebrates the<br />
warm weather and break<br />
from work with family<br />
trips to the parks and<br />
beaches. This year it falls<br />
on 5–6 April.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Some 20,000–30,000<br />
people helped to<br />
construct the Great<br />
Pyramid at Giza for the<br />
Pharaoh Khufu.<br />
Denise Fletcher<br />
00000 EasyJet Sales 4.5mil Banne1 1 18/3/10 09:41:53
Discover how relaxing living in Berlin can be.<br />
Located at the junction of Alexanderplatz and Friedrichstraße and on the border<br />
between Mitte and Kreuzberg, Spittelmarkt Square is the new premier address<br />
for people in search of a relaxing lifestyle in the heart of Berlin. Construction has<br />
already begun on three elegant tenements with an underground car park and<br />
a total of 53 freehold flats with living areas measuring between 100 and 250 m 2<br />
and comfortable fittings that truly live up to the first-class flair of the location.<br />
To find out more:<br />
Visit our sales office at Neue Grünstraße 9, 10179 Berlin. We’re there for you<br />
Thursday to Friday from 12 to 7 p. m. and Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 6 p. m.,<br />
or you can make an appointment by calling +49 (0) 3088094445 or emailing<br />
us at info@wohnen-am-spittelmarkt.de<br />
www.wohnen-am-spittelmarkt.de<br />
WITH EVERYTHING<br />
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CLOSE PROXIMITY:<br />
YOUR NEW HOME<br />
IN THE CENTRE<br />
OF BERLIN.
140 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Innsbruck<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Bus F runs to<br />
the city every 15<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.70.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
crowd and a cheerful,<br />
laidback atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Get the Easter<br />
delicacies at Zotter<br />
– the famous Austrian<br />
chocolate brand. The<br />
products are made<br />
of exclusively organic<br />
ingredients and include<br />
eccentric mixes such<br />
as dark bitter chocolate<br />
with olives (56A<br />
Amraser See Strasse).<br />
SEE Have a look at<br />
the exhibition by Rudi<br />
Wach, the Tyrolean<br />
painter and sculptor,<br />
at the Ferdinandeum<br />
Museum. The exhibition<br />
comprises of his early<br />
graphic works, and<br />
runs until 25 April (15<br />
Museumstrasse).<br />
Inverness<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £14–£19.<br />
Jet buses run to<br />
Nairns and<br />
Inverness (thejet.co.uk).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Loch Ness Inn<br />
(West Lewiston,<br />
Drumnadrochit, tel:<br />
01456 450 991)<br />
Step inside this cosy,<br />
country eatery and<br />
enjoy the best local<br />
produce including<br />
freshly caught fi sh,<br />
local venison, handdived<br />
scallops and<br />
west-coast mussels.<br />
Luxury cuisine at<br />
great prices is to be<br />
expected here.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Lochardil House<br />
Hotel (Stratherrick<br />
Road, tel: 01463 235<br />
995) Chef Iain Maxwell<br />
takes simple, classic<br />
dishes that everyone<br />
loves and adds a<br />
modern twist. The<br />
menu features the<br />
rich bounty of the<br />
Highland larder, from<br />
the land and sea.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Gunsmiths (30 Union<br />
Street, tel: 01463 250<br />
116) The Gunsmiths is<br />
a great local pub, with<br />
real ale, quiz nights<br />
and karaoke on<br />
Friday evenings.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Mavericks (5–9 Young<br />
Street, tel: 01463<br />
243 342) Open till<br />
2am every evening,<br />
Mavericks is known for<br />
hosting some of the<br />
best parties in town.<br />
Enjoy a cocktail or two,<br />
let your hair down and<br />
dance the night away.<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 AlDente<br />
(7 Meraner Strasse, tel:<br />
0512 584 947) Pasta<br />
is the key word at this<br />
Italian eatery: whether<br />
it’s lasagna, macaroni<br />
or spaghetti – it’s all<br />
homemade à la mama.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Weinhaus Joergele<br />
(13 Herzog Friedrich<br />
Strasse, tel: 0512 582<br />
217) Austrian specialities<br />
prepared with local,<br />
organic ingredients and<br />
an impressive wine list<br />
is what you can expect<br />
here. Treat yourself with<br />
a deer goulash and<br />
sweet cheese dumplings<br />
as dessert.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LATE & LIVELY Kir<br />
Royal (11 Sillgasse, tel:<br />
0512 585 859) This<br />
is defi nitely the best<br />
cocktail bar in town,<br />
with a slightly older<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Rulers of Innsbruck<br />
have indeed had funny<br />
nicknames in the past<br />
– Friedrich III was given<br />
the name “Frederic of<br />
the empty pockets” by<br />
his political opponents.<br />
Jovana Urosevic<br />
LOW<br />
KEY<br />
Magistrat (18 Maria<br />
Theresien Strasse)<br />
Perfect for relaxing<br />
on a Friday evening,<br />
enjoy the Italian<br />
atmosphere with a<br />
glass of prosecco and<br />
delicious tramezzini<br />
(club sandwich).<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Arts and<br />
crafts galore, Hobby<br />
Haven stocks all the<br />
crafty things you’ll<br />
ever need to be<br />
creative and it’s all<br />
under one roof – from<br />
sewing and knitting<br />
kits to paper craft<br />
(6 Queensgate Arcade,<br />
tel: 01463 717 234).<br />
GO St Andrew’s<br />
Cathedral was<br />
designed by Alexander<br />
Ross and built between<br />
1866–1869. Beyond<br />
the sanctuary of the<br />
impressive cathedral<br />
stands the boys’<br />
school building, which<br />
is now used as a tea<br />
room where visitors<br />
can enjoy home<br />
baking and freshly<br />
made tea or coffee<br />
(15 Ardross Street).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Loch Ness is the largest<br />
body of fresh water in<br />
Britain. No wonder<br />
no-one can fi nd Nessie!<br />
Beverley Tricker<br />
Istanbul<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY Lira (YTL)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs YTL35.<br />
E3 buses run<br />
hourly to 4 Levent<br />
(Tickets: YTL4.50), from<br />
where the metro goes<br />
to Taksim Square. Havas<br />
buses meet fl ights and<br />
run to Taksim Square<br />
(Tickets: YTL12).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Avlu<br />
(32 Yeni Carsi Caddesi,<br />
Galatasaray, tel: 0212<br />
244 9725) A swish<br />
new take on an<br />
old style meyhane<br />
drinking den. There’s<br />
a fi xed bar menu and<br />
à la carte Turkish<br />
specialities such as<br />
the beautiful oregano<br />
grilled chicken.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Hakkasan (Kanyon,<br />
Büyükdere Caddesi,<br />
Levent, tel: 0212 319<br />
8888) This is the local<br />
branch of the famous<br />
London fusion eatery<br />
– expect exquisite<br />
Chinese cuisine with a<br />
twist. Don’t even think<br />
about arriving without<br />
a booking though.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Balkon (Sixth Floor,<br />
5 Sehbender Sokak,<br />
Beyoglu, tel: 0212 293<br />
2052) A friendly topfl<br />
oor bar with fantastic<br />
views over the city<br />
from the lovely<br />
terrace, where a DJ<br />
plays top tunes.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cambaz (2 Haci<br />
Ahmet Sok, Beyoglu,<br />
tel: 0212 243 5473)<br />
Party on the roof till<br />
4am with Istanbul’s<br />
young, wild and free<br />
at this happening,<br />
modern club.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP IKSV Tasarim<br />
is a newly opened<br />
design-concept store<br />
offering gifts and<br />
ornaments inspired<br />
by Turkish and<br />
international artists.<br />
They make special<br />
gifts to take home<br />
(5 Sadi Konuralp<br />
Caddesi, Sishane).<br />
SEE Not seen enough<br />
movies lately? The<br />
28th Istanbul<br />
International Film<br />
Festival from 3–18 April<br />
offers 500 screenings<br />
of 200 fi lms from all<br />
over the world, at seven<br />
cinemas around the<br />
city (iksv.org).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Each day two million<br />
cubic metres of water<br />
runs through the<br />
city, but throughout<br />
the year a total of 118<br />
million cubic metres<br />
is wasted due to<br />
pipe leakage – three<br />
month’s worth of water.<br />
David O’Byrne<br />
Experience the Thalasso & Spa Therapy in the most limpid sea water of the world...<br />
Hotel 4/ 5<br />
FROM 60 <br />
H/B per person / per night<br />
Delphina Hotels Resorts – Sardinia – Italy Tel: +39 0789 790018 – Fax: +39 0789 790058 E-mail: info@delphina.it<br />
Nearest Airports: Olbia (Costa Smeralda) and main Sardinian Airports<br />
un Amico in Sardegna<br />
www.delphina.it
Jersey<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £16.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 El Tico (St<br />
Ouen’s Bay, tel: 01534<br />
482 009) More than<br />
just a beach café, El<br />
Tico offers a full dining<br />
experience overlooking<br />
the surf at St Ouen. Try<br />
the east African curry,<br />
Lebanese bread, or the<br />
meaty king prawns.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Suma’s<br />
(Gorey Hill, St Martin,<br />
tel: 01534 853 291)<br />
This modern gourmet<br />
restaurant close to Gorey<br />
Castle has a new look<br />
and a new menu. Start<br />
with Jersey scallops with<br />
chive beurre blanc, then<br />
pan-fried Jersey brill with<br />
pumpkin and thyme<br />
risotto, rounding it all off<br />
with the lemon tarte.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Blush (36<br />
King Street, St Helier,<br />
tel: 01534 759 420) A<br />
welcoming bar in the<br />
heart of St Helier, Blush<br />
is a good place to start<br />
a night out on the town.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Mayfair Hotel (St<br />
Saviour’s Road, St Helier,<br />
tel: 01534 888 822)<br />
There’s a wide variety<br />
of live entertainment on<br />
every night of the week<br />
at this central hotel.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Jersey Pearl<br />
on the Five Mile Road<br />
is celebrating its 25th<br />
anniversary as a leading<br />
specialist in pearls. In<br />
that time it has sold<br />
20 million pearls to<br />
7.5 million visitors.<br />
SEE The island will be<br />
full of cyclists taking<br />
part in one leg of<br />
the gruelling Tour de<br />
Bretagne from 25–26<br />
April. The cyclists will<br />
be accompanied by<br />
the French president’s<br />
Garde Republicaine<br />
motorcyclists.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
NO WAY!<br />
St Matthew’s Church is<br />
also known as “the glass<br />
church” due to glasswork<br />
by René Lalique.<br />
Peter Body<br />
THE INN<br />
BOUTIQUE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Kitsch yet cosy rooms<br />
can be found at<br />
Jersey’s new hotel. The<br />
restaurant is just the<br />
place for a casual bite.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €74, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Krakow<br />
Poland<br />
DIALLING CODE +48<br />
CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs PLN80.<br />
Trains leave every<br />
30 minutes for<br />
Krakow’s main station<br />
from 4.24am-00.15am.<br />
Tickets: PLN6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Kwadrans Lunch Bar<br />
(32 Ulica Grodzka, tel:<br />
012 294 2222) Slap<br />
bang in the centre of<br />
town, Kwadrans serves<br />
up tasty two-course<br />
lunches for less than<br />
PLN15, a bargain in<br />
anyone’s eyes.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Marchewka z<br />
Groszkiem (2 Ulica<br />
Mostowa, tel: 012 430<br />
0795) This eatery’s<br />
name translates to<br />
“carrots with peas” but<br />
thankfully serves much<br />
more than just that.<br />
Tucked away down a<br />
Kazimierz backstreet,<br />
this pleasant pitstop<br />
rustles up trusty<br />
Polish favourites to<br />
a loyal crowd.<br />
UP TO €50 Avocado<br />
(1 Ulica Bozego Ciala,<br />
tel: 012 422 0486)<br />
Another Kazimierz<br />
haunt, Avocado<br />
boasts an ace chef<br />
who delivers exquisite<br />
international dishes.<br />
Now that we’re into<br />
April, you may strike<br />
it lucky and be able to<br />
eat alfresco.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Pod<br />
Roza (14 Ulica<br />
Florianska, tel:<br />
012 424 3381)<br />
Businessmen looking<br />
for a professional<br />
place to cut a deal<br />
may fi nd this elegant<br />
glass-roofed space<br />
in the hotel Pod Roza<br />
to be just the ticket.<br />
Superb international<br />
cuisine is on the menu.<br />
Meanwhile, Amarone,<br />
the sister restaurant<br />
on the same fl oor,<br />
offers a more romantic<br />
ambience, for those in<br />
the mood for love.<br />
Wierzynek (17 Rynek<br />
Glowny, tel: 012 424<br />
9600) A favourite<br />
haunt of Kings and<br />
celebrities, Wierzynek<br />
retains its regal<br />
approach. Thankfully,<br />
the highest class of<br />
Polish food is available<br />
to us commoners, too!<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Wodka<br />
(5 Ulica Mikolajska,<br />
tel: 012 422 3214) This<br />
is a chill-out haunt,<br />
a tiny, romantic café<br />
that’s ideal for fi rst<br />
dates. However, the<br />
epic arsenal of Polish<br />
vodkas behind the<br />
bar indicates that<br />
things can go up<br />
a gear or fi ve if<br />
you’re in the<br />
right company.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 141<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Drukarnia (1 Ulica<br />
Nadwislanka, tel: 012<br />
656 6560) Many don’t<br />
make the move over<br />
the river to Podgorze,<br />
but it’s Krakow’s<br />
most up-and-coming<br />
district. Drukarnia’s<br />
downstairs den – with<br />
jazz and rock on offer<br />
– is one great reason<br />
to head off the<br />
beaten track.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Krzysztofory (2 Ulica<br />
Szczepanska, tel: 012<br />
421 3602) According<br />
to legend, a Cinderellatype<br />
waif was<br />
imprisoned in these<br />
cellars by her mean<br />
sister. These days<br />
you’ll fi nd charged up<br />
hipsters mashing it<br />
up to drum ’n’ bass,<br />
dubstep and hip hop.<br />
Pauza Klub (18 Ulica<br />
Florianska, tel: 012<br />
422 1619) Teetering on<br />
the edge of the dance<br />
music avant-garde is<br />
hip cellar-club Pauza<br />
where the beats<br />
are fresh but highly<br />
danceable.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Travellers<br />
curious about<br />
Krakow’s Jewish past<br />
might drop into the<br />
excellent Austeria<br />
bookshop, housed in<br />
Kazimierz’s large and<br />
bold High Synagogue<br />
(38 Ulica Jozefa).<br />
SHOP Your friends<br />
will surely be green<br />
with envy when you<br />
return home with a<br />
fantastic new dress or<br />
handbag from Yoshe.<br />
Original womenswear<br />
rules at this trendy,<br />
sophisticated boutique<br />
on the Royal Way (45<br />
Ulica Grodzka, tel:<br />
012 421 2657).<br />
SEE Cinephiles have<br />
a treat in store this<br />
month, as the fresh<br />
new Off Plus Camera<br />
festival, now in its third<br />
year, will be presenting<br />
independent feature<br />
fi lms from across the<br />
globe from 16–24 April<br />
(offpluscamera.pl).<br />
GO Once an<br />
independent city in its<br />
own right, Kazimierz<br />
ultimately became<br />
one of the most<br />
important centres<br />
of Jewish culture<br />
in Central Europe.<br />
Now the subject of<br />
intensive investment,<br />
the district is one of<br />
the most evocative<br />
parts of Krakow,<br />
now fi rmly established<br />
as trendy among<br />
students and<br />
café loungers.<br />
ESCAPE Rent a<br />
bike and ride along<br />
the river to Tyniec, a<br />
magnifi cent medieval<br />
monastery that also<br />
boasts an excellent<br />
restaurant, café and<br />
delicatessen. If you<br />
want to save your<br />
energy, there are<br />
regular buses from<br />
Rynek Dobnicki. By<br />
bus the journey takes<br />
about an hour.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Plenty of scholars<br />
claim that the bagel<br />
originated right here<br />
in Krakow’s Kazimierz,<br />
way back in the<br />
17th century.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
cracow-life.com
142 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Kos<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
Taxis cost €25–€30<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ambeli<br />
(Coast Road, Tingaki)<br />
Ambeli is as authentic<br />
as it gets in Kos, the<br />
long-standing owner<br />
and chef serve Greek’s<br />
fi nest fare in their<br />
sea-facing restaurant.<br />
Ambeli means vineyard<br />
in Greek, so it will come<br />
as no surprise that they<br />
serve their home-grown<br />
wine to accompany the<br />
fantastic meals.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Petrino<br />
(Ioannou Square,<br />
Theologou, tel: 22420<br />
27251) This beautifully<br />
restored, former private<br />
residence is popular with<br />
royalty and famed for its<br />
traditional Greek cuisine<br />
and wines. Lobster and<br />
other western delicacies<br />
are also served for those<br />
who have overdone the<br />
local food.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Dolce<br />
Mare (Harbour Road,<br />
Mastihari Village, tel:<br />
22420 59089) More like<br />
a Greek mama’s large<br />
living room than a café,<br />
this is a great spot for<br />
relaxing and reading<br />
day or night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Fashion Club (2 Kanari<br />
Street, Dolphins Square)<br />
Here the surroundings<br />
and the clientèle are<br />
as glamorous as they<br />
come. Fashionistas<br />
aplenty in this cafénightclub<br />
with an<br />
impressive light and<br />
laser show wowing the<br />
large crowds. Happy<br />
“hour” draws in the<br />
crowds every night<br />
from 7pm–10.30pm.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Old Town<br />
is a great place to start<br />
your shopping. Meander<br />
around and you will<br />
fi nd all your holiday<br />
needs catered for, plus<br />
souvenirs and great<br />
local delicacies, such as<br />
honey. Most shops are<br />
open until 10pm, and<br />
after sundown there is<br />
a lovely atmosphere in<br />
this part of the city.<br />
GO Bubble Beach, near<br />
Kos Town, is a must-visit<br />
during your stay. Aptly<br />
named due to the<br />
streams of bubbles<br />
running through the<br />
water – a natural<br />
phenomena, thanks<br />
to the nearby volcanic<br />
activity. It’s the warmest<br />
water in all of Kos.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The south-western<br />
part of Kos was blown<br />
in to the air by a huge<br />
volcanic eruption nearly<br />
140,000 years ago.<br />
Deborah Hatch<br />
Lamezia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Routes 4 and 5<br />
go to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Il<br />
Semaforo (14 Via Emilia,<br />
Catanzaro, tel: 0961<br />
61260) Sitting on the<br />
corner of the traffi c light,<br />
this restaurant serves<br />
primi and secondi dishes<br />
featuring both meat and<br />
seafood, as well as a wide<br />
variety of pizzas.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Abbruzzino (Località<br />
S Janni, Catanzaro, tel:<br />
0961 799 008) This<br />
restaurant, owned by<br />
Calabrian-born chef,<br />
Antonio Abbruzzino,<br />
is one of the most<br />
opulent restaurants in<br />
Catanzaro. Choose the<br />
fi ve, six or seven-course<br />
tasting menu and watch<br />
the chef perform behind<br />
the transparent glass.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar Ariston<br />
(Piazza Ercole, Tropea,<br />
tel: 0963 62820) For<br />
more than 60 years<br />
locals have enjoyed the<br />
delicious Sicilian granita,<br />
and tartufo di Pizzo,<br />
an indulgent chocolate<br />
ice-cream dessert.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Glamour Disco Club<br />
(77 Via Italia, Catanzaro,<br />
tel: 0961 720 856)<br />
Glamour Disco Club<br />
lives up to its name as<br />
one of the trendiest<br />
nightclubs around.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Stop by Eterni<br />
Sapori di Calabria for<br />
a wide selection of<br />
Calabrian specialities<br />
such as liquorice and<br />
other tasty treats (Via<br />
Moderata Durant, eterni<br />
saporidicalabria.com).<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
NO WAY!<br />
La dolce vita (the sweet<br />
life) originated in Sibari<br />
(near Cosenza), where<br />
the citizens quickly<br />
acquired great wealth<br />
from the richness of their<br />
lands with little effort.<br />
Cherrye Moore/<br />
my-bellavita.com<br />
EASTER<br />
CELEBRATIONS<br />
During the fi rst week<br />
of April, notably in<br />
Catanzaro and in<br />
Badolato there are<br />
huge parades. On<br />
25 April Corigliano<br />
Calabro celebrates<br />
the Festival of San<br />
Francesco di Paola.<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €12.<br />
On routes 22 and<br />
23, buses stop at<br />
Playa del Reducto and<br />
Arrecife’s bus station,<br />
from 7am–10.25pm.<br />
Tickets: €1.15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Jasmine<br />
Chinese Restaurant<br />
(23 Avenida Papagayo,<br />
Playa Blanca) The<br />
friendly staff at this<br />
Chinese restaurant<br />
will make you feel very<br />
welcome indeed. Try the<br />
crispy aromatic duck or<br />
sizzling beef.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Amura<br />
(Edifi cio Antiguo<br />
Varadero, Puerto Calero,<br />
tel: 928 510 850)<br />
Located in the landmark<br />
neo-colonial building<br />
at the Puerto Calero<br />
marina, this Michelin<br />
guide-recommended<br />
restaurant serves<br />
superb modern dishes in<br />
an outstanding setting.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La Cantina<br />
(Calle El Correillo, Playa<br />
Blanca) Start off your<br />
evening here for a real<br />
traditional Spanish<br />
experience – this is one<br />
of the very few bars in<br />
Lanzarote that actually<br />
offers a free tapa with<br />
your beer.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Heineken Bar (Avenida<br />
del Varadero, Puerto del<br />
Carmen) Enjoy a mix of<br />
classic hits and up-todate<br />
dance tunes with<br />
the young crowd in this<br />
popular bar in Puerto<br />
del Carmen’s Old Town.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you enjoy<br />
a fi ne cigar, why not<br />
try one of the local<br />
Canarian varieties<br />
on sale at Tabaquería<br />
La Vegueta, an oldfashioned<br />
Spanish<br />
tobacconist (23 Calle<br />
Leon y Castillo, Arrecife).<br />
GO Although the recent<br />
redevelopment of Puerto<br />
del Carmen’s beachfront<br />
has not been without<br />
controversy, there<br />
is no doubt that the<br />
work has made a huge<br />
improvement. With more<br />
than 2km of continuous<br />
shops, restaurants and<br />
bars, there is plenty to<br />
keep you occupied.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The local potatoes<br />
quinegua and arranbana<br />
are actually King Edward<br />
and Arran Banner<br />
spuds. When they were<br />
fi rst introduced to the<br />
islands from Britain and<br />
Ireland a century ago,<br />
the locals simply wrote<br />
the names down as they<br />
heard them.<br />
Ashley Wootton/<br />
DiscoverLanzarote.com
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144 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Lisbon<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
leaves every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €3.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Churrasco da Graça<br />
(43 Largo da Graça,<br />
Graça, tel: 21 886<br />
0547) Near the 28 tram<br />
stop, this is a simple<br />
eatery where you’ll get<br />
a good basic meal of<br />
fi sh, fowl or meat at<br />
reasonable prices.<br />
UP TO €50 Tasca<br />
da Esquina (41C Rua<br />
Domingos Sequeira,<br />
tel: 21 099 3939)<br />
Recently opened, this<br />
new dining concept by<br />
renowned Portuguese<br />
chef Vitor Sobral seems<br />
to be working, as he<br />
offers gourmet food<br />
at affordable prices in<br />
simple surroundings.<br />
Book ahead for a table.<br />
EXCLUSIVE O Largo<br />
(10A Rua Serpa Pinto,<br />
tel: 21 347 7225) A new<br />
restaurant round the<br />
corner from the opera<br />
house that has got<br />
a buzz about it. With<br />
an inventive menu<br />
based on traditional<br />
Portuguese cuisine, it<br />
boasts dishes such as<br />
marinated sea bass<br />
and scallops with<br />
chicory and saffron.<br />
Cipriani (Lapa Palace<br />
Hotel, 4 Rua do Pau<br />
de Bandeira, tel: 21<br />
394 9401) This luxury<br />
hotel-restaurant<br />
offers Italian-inspired<br />
haute cuisine at the<br />
inspired hands of<br />
chef Giorgio Damasio.<br />
The converted<br />
mansion stands in<br />
luxuriant gardens with<br />
marvellous views.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Casa<br />
do Alentejo bar<br />
(58 Portas de Santo<br />
Antão, tel: 21 340<br />
5140) This small bar<br />
on the fi rst fl oor of this<br />
amazing 19th-century<br />
Moorish revival building<br />
is good for an early<br />
evening drink.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Bartô<br />
no Chapitô (1–7 Costa<br />
do Castelo, tel: 21 885<br />
5550) Perched on the<br />
castle hill with terrifi c<br />
river views, the bar of<br />
the circus school has<br />
fado (Lisbon blues)<br />
every Tuesday, but<br />
there’s a chance of<br />
catching live music on<br />
other nights, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Belém Bar Café<br />
(BBC) (Avenida<br />
Brasília, Belém,<br />
tel: 21 395 0665)<br />
This upmarket bar,<br />
restaurant and disco<br />
on the waterfront is still<br />
one of the best places<br />
to see and be seen,<br />
even after years of<br />
service to Lisbon’s<br />
cool customers.<br />
A Lontra (155–157<br />
Rua de São Bento, tel:<br />
21 396 1083) This is<br />
one of Lisbon’s bestknown<br />
African clubs<br />
with great rhythms,<br />
both live and recorded.<br />
Open from 11pm–4am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Whether you’re<br />
looking for a panama,<br />
a fedora or a beret<br />
– head down to<br />
Chapelaria Azevedo<br />
Rua, a wonderful old<br />
shop on the Rossio,<br />
which is bound to<br />
satisfy your hatting<br />
needs (73 Praça<br />
Dom Pedro IV, tel:<br />
21 342 7511).<br />
SEE Tokio Hotel are<br />
playing at the Atlantic<br />
Pavilion on 7 April<br />
(pavilhaoatlantico.pt)<br />
and Mozart’s Marriage<br />
of Figaro opens at<br />
the São Carlos Opera<br />
House on the 24th, both<br />
will be great events<br />
(tel: 21 325 3045).<br />
UP TO<br />
€30<br />
Café Nicola (24 Praça<br />
Dom Pedro IV, tel: 21<br />
346 0579) This old<br />
café in Rossio Square<br />
boasts a marvellous<br />
art deco interior. At the<br />
back there’s an oldfashioned<br />
dining room<br />
serving authentic food.<br />
GO Parque das Nações,<br />
or Expo as it’s still<br />
known, is a complete<br />
and perhaps welcome<br />
contrast to the Old City.<br />
A postmodern citywithin-the-city,<br />
it hasn’t<br />
acquired much soul<br />
yet but there are some<br />
architectural highlights<br />
such as Calatrava’s<br />
railway station and lots<br />
to do, including the<br />
Oceanarium, the Casino<br />
and a dance venue, the<br />
Camões Theatre.<br />
GO The historic<br />
waterfront<br />
neighbourhood of<br />
Belém has plenty to<br />
keep you busy, with its<br />
vast cultural centre,<br />
Jeronímos Monastery,<br />
botanical garden,<br />
Museu da Electricidade<br />
(electricity museum)<br />
and much more. Get<br />
there by tram from<br />
Praça do Comércio.<br />
ESCAPE Óbidos is<br />
a lovely white-walled<br />
town about an hour<br />
and a half’s drive from<br />
Lisbon. A bit of a tourist<br />
trap perhaps, but still<br />
a delight perched on<br />
its hill with views west<br />
over the ocean. There’s<br />
certainly lots to see,<br />
eat, drink and do there.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
On 25 April, buy<br />
a red carnation and<br />
parade down the<br />
Avenida da Liberdade.<br />
The Portuguese<br />
will be marking the<br />
anniversary of the<br />
peaceful revolution<br />
that ended a long<br />
dictatorship and<br />
brought independence<br />
for its colonies.<br />
Jonathan Weightman<br />
Liverpool<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £15.<br />
The 500 departs<br />
every 30 minutes<br />
for the city centre.<br />
Tickets: £2.60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Bistro<br />
Franc (Church House,<br />
1 Hanover Street,<br />
tel: 0151 708 9993)<br />
Shoppers pack this<br />
central place out for<br />
the Lunch Rapide<br />
– three courses from<br />
a basic, but hearty<br />
brasserie menu, giving<br />
them enough fuel to<br />
carry on the bargain<br />
hunt for a good few<br />
hours longer.<br />
UP TO €30 Etsu<br />
(25 The Strand, tel:<br />
0151 236 7530) This<br />
small, vibrant Japanese<br />
restaurant in the<br />
commercial district<br />
offers thoughtful<br />
service and authentic,<br />
expertly prepared<br />
dishes to its thronging<br />
line of visitors. Service<br />
is speedy, but you<br />
may have to wait<br />
a while for your table.<br />
UP TO €50 Puschka<br />
(16 Rodney Street, tel:<br />
0151 708 9772) Stylish<br />
and relaxed, Puschka is<br />
set among handsome<br />
Georgian terraces with<br />
consistently good food<br />
using local, organic and<br />
free-range ingredients,<br />
pleasing even the<br />
healthiest of visitors.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Fraiche<br />
(11 Rose Mount, Wirral,<br />
tel: 0151 652 2914)<br />
Careful sourcing of<br />
ingredients and chef<br />
Marc Wilkinson’s<br />
inventive ways with<br />
modern French cuisine<br />
have combined to<br />
produce Merseyside’s<br />
fi rst Michelin star. A<br />
fi ve-minute drive is all<br />
it takes to experience<br />
opulent surroundings<br />
and beautiful dining.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Doctor<br />
Duncan’s (St John’s<br />
Lane, tel: 0151 709<br />
5100) A wide range<br />
of real ales makes this<br />
charming, traditional<br />
pub with a welcoming<br />
atmosphere popular<br />
with beer lovers.<br />
Food is available<br />
at lunchtimes to<br />
accompany your<br />
perfect pint.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Zanzibar Club<br />
(43 Seel Street, tel:<br />
0151 707 0633) One<br />
of the city’s longest<br />
established live<br />
music venues, this<br />
is a good place to<br />
catch up-and-coming<br />
bands in easygoing<br />
surroundings. It’s<br />
grungy and it’s<br />
loud but it’s bound<br />
to please.
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146 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Liverpool<br />
UK<br />
The Hotel California<br />
(2 New Chester Road,<br />
Birkenhead, tel: 0151<br />
666 1688) Safe,<br />
friendly live venue for<br />
classic rock, punk,<br />
metal and indie music,<br />
plus tribute bands<br />
and DJs, fi ve minutes<br />
from Liverpool city<br />
centre, near the Mersey<br />
Tunnel entrance.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Bar<br />
Hannah (2 Leece<br />
Street, tel: 0151 708<br />
5959) This New<br />
York-style bar with hot<br />
food serves every kind<br />
of cocktail you can<br />
imagine, and some<br />
you can’t, which are<br />
prepared by friendly,<br />
helpful staff. The bar is<br />
open throughout the<br />
day, but night time is<br />
when it really shines.<br />
From the second fl oor’s<br />
glass roof you can sip<br />
your Singapore Sling<br />
under the stars!<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For an<br />
alternative to the<br />
high street, try Grand<br />
Central Hall, with more<br />
than 30 independent<br />
outlets on three fl oors<br />
of the impressive<br />
former Methodist<br />
church. Clothing ranges<br />
from superb vintage<br />
fi nds to racy clubbing<br />
costumes, and almost<br />
everything in between<br />
(35 Renshaw Street,<br />
tel: 0151 709 2074).<br />
SEE The Grand<br />
National race meeting<br />
includes fashion highs<br />
on Ladies’ Day and<br />
culminates in the 163rd<br />
running of perhaps the<br />
world’s greatest horse<br />
racing spectacle. This<br />
year the event is from<br />
8–10 April (Aintree<br />
Racecourse, Ormskirk<br />
Road, aintree.co.uk).<br />
GO From St John’s<br />
Gardens, you are<br />
less than 100 metres<br />
from three cultural<br />
treasures: the<br />
World Museum, the<br />
prestigious Walker<br />
Art Gallery, and St<br />
George’s Hall, one<br />
of the world’s fi nest<br />
neo-classical buildings.<br />
Saunter around the<br />
sites for visual and<br />
intellectual stimulation.<br />
ESCAPE A 75-minute<br />
drive out of the city<br />
rewards you with<br />
spectacular views,<br />
hundreds of acres of<br />
woods and moors,<br />
and wildlife aplenty at<br />
Beacon Fell Country<br />
Park. For walking trails<br />
and other activities<br />
check out the Bowland<br />
Visitor Centre fi rst<br />
(Carwags, Preston,<br />
tel: 01995 640 557).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The world’s fi rst port<br />
radar system, allowing<br />
the monitoring of<br />
all shipping in the<br />
River Mersey and<br />
approaching channels,<br />
was installed at<br />
Liverpool’s Gladstone<br />
Dock in 1948.<br />
Gerry Corner<br />
Ljubljana<br />
Slovenia<br />
DIALLING CODE +386<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €45.<br />
Buses leave every<br />
hour till 8pm.<br />
Tickets: €4.10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Cutty<br />
Sark (1 Knalev Perhod,<br />
tel: 01 425 1477)<br />
Unpretentious fun is<br />
on offer at this British<br />
theme pub in the city<br />
centre. They serve up<br />
excellent value pizzas<br />
and other snacks, too.<br />
TRNOVO<br />
GO Head just south of<br />
the centre for a taste<br />
of bohemian Ljubljana<br />
in Trnovo. The haunt of<br />
romantic poet France<br />
Prešeren, you can chill<br />
out in the canalside<br />
cafés before reclining<br />
by the riverside.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Chez<br />
Eric (3 Mestni Trg, tel:<br />
01 251 2839) France<br />
meets Slovenia in a<br />
perfect marriage of<br />
restaurant table and<br />
wine list. Expect smooth<br />
service and creamlaced<br />
dishes brimming<br />
with local produce.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Plato (1<br />
Ajdovscina, tel: 01 230<br />
8480) As cafés go<br />
this one is a lot of fun.<br />
You can feel equally at<br />
home here ordering a<br />
big milky coffee as a<br />
gorgeous local beer –<br />
both very Ljubljana.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bachus (3 Kongresni<br />
Trg, tel: 01 241 8242)<br />
With a brace of peoplefi<br />
lled dancefl oors, a<br />
restaurant and pool<br />
tables, it is worth<br />
battling past the<br />
bouncers at this<br />
popular venue. Look out<br />
for big-name DJs and<br />
some great local talent.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Slovenia revels<br />
in the great outdoors,<br />
but if you have not<br />
brought your own gear<br />
or want to grab hold<br />
of some more then<br />
make a beeline for Pro<br />
Montana, a city-centre<br />
adventure temple<br />
(58 Poljanski Nasip,<br />
tel: 01 280 0590).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Local legend has it that<br />
the dragons’ tails on the<br />
city’s striking Dragon<br />
Bridge wave when<br />
a virgin walks over it.<br />
Robin McKelvie/<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
London<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
LUTON<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £100 to<br />
central London.<br />
National Express<br />
tickets can be<br />
bought onboard.<br />
Tickets: £14 single; £19<br />
return. Ask your cabin<br />
crew for details<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
easyBus, in<br />
conjunction with<br />
Greenline, runs a<br />
24-hour coach service<br />
to London Victoria.<br />
Tickets: from £2 single<br />
online (easyJet.com).<br />
Trains from Luton<br />
Airport Parkway<br />
go to London St Pancras.<br />
Tickets: £12 single<br />
(fi rstcapital<br />
connect.co.uk).<br />
GATWICK<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £100<br />
to central London.<br />
As part of a<br />
redevelopment<br />
plan the inter-terminal<br />
transit train has<br />
been replaced by a<br />
bus service between<br />
the south and north<br />
terminals. Passengers<br />
should allow plenty<br />
of time to travel<br />
between terminals.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
easyBus runs a<br />
minibus service to<br />
London Victoria. Tickets<br />
from £2 single online<br />
(easyJet.com).<br />
The Gatwick<br />
Express to London<br />
Victoria runs every 15<br />
minutes from 4.35am–<br />
1.35am. Exclusive<br />
easyJet discounted<br />
fares available when you<br />
buy onboard. Ask your<br />
cabin crew for details.<br />
STANSTED<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £120<br />
to central London.<br />
National Express<br />
runs a bus service<br />
to London Victoria.<br />
Tickets: £17 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
easyBus runs a<br />
frequent minibus<br />
service to Baker Street<br />
Underground Station<br />
and London Victoria.<br />
Tickets: from £2 single<br />
online (easyJet.com).<br />
The Stansted<br />
Express runs<br />
every 15–30 minutes<br />
until 00.30am.<br />
Exclusive easyJet<br />
discounted fares<br />
available when you buy<br />
onboard. Ask your cabin<br />
crew for details.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Carluccio’s<br />
(27 Spital Square, E1,<br />
tel: 020 7392 7662)<br />
This delectable Italian
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148 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
London<br />
UK<br />
restaurant offers<br />
fantastic food to eat in<br />
or take away, and it’s<br />
an ideal spot if you’re<br />
in Spitalfi elds Market or<br />
nearby Brick Lane.<br />
If you like what you<br />
order, there is also a<br />
shop selling pasta,<br />
sauces, coffee and<br />
other Italian treats<br />
for you to take home.<br />
Round off a pasta,<br />
panini or salad with<br />
their super, authentic<br />
Italian tiramisu.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Wagamama<br />
(11 Jamestown Road,<br />
NW1, tel: 020 7428<br />
0800) Serving tasty<br />
pan-Asian cuisine,<br />
Wagamama’s has<br />
become synonymous<br />
with good, fast,<br />
reliable dining across<br />
the country. It’s the<br />
perfect place for an<br />
introduction to Oriental<br />
cuisine – and how to<br />
try your hand at using<br />
chopsticks. The gyoza<br />
dumplings are<br />
a delicious option for<br />
a starter, then try any<br />
of the wide selection of<br />
noodle or rice dishes,<br />
with a reasonable<br />
amount of veggie<br />
options – all washed<br />
down with an ice<br />
cold Tiger beer. If you<br />
order the noodle soup<br />
remember to ask for<br />
a couple of extra<br />
napkins – it’s messy<br />
business, but totally<br />
worth it.<br />
UP TO €50 Colony<br />
(7–9 Paddington<br />
Street, W1, tel: 020<br />
7935 3353) This brand<br />
new restaurant is<br />
ideally located close<br />
to Madame Tussauds,<br />
and is perfect for those<br />
who love a bit of spice<br />
thrown in to their luxury<br />
dining. Successful<br />
restaurateur Carlo<br />
Spetale has brought<br />
in Michelin-starred<br />
chef, Atul Kochhar to<br />
create the fi nest Indian<br />
street-style cuisine. The<br />
outcome is fantastic<br />
– curries served up<br />
tapas-style and diners<br />
share and pass round<br />
small plates of unique<br />
creations. Particularly<br />
noteworthy are the<br />
lamb and monkfi sh<br />
options, and the<br />
delicious black lentils.<br />
Choose a bottle of wine<br />
from the extensive list<br />
and you’re set for a<br />
sublime evening.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Aqua<br />
Kyoto (Fifth Floor, 240<br />
Regent Street, W1, tel:<br />
020 7478 0540) Hong<br />
Kong’s Aqua group<br />
has opened a sexy<br />
and secluded<br />
rooftop Japanese<br />
restaurant and bar<br />
opposite London’s<br />
Palladium. Dark<br />
mirrored elevators<br />
whisk diners to the top<br />
fl oor, giving it a private<br />
members feel. Décorwise<br />
think opulent black<br />
and red interiors, with<br />
intimate booths and<br />
a dressed-up crowd.<br />
The cocktails are truly<br />
memorable; unusually<br />
blended ingredients and<br />
not too sweet. There<br />
are lots of excellent<br />
vegetarian options<br />
such as spinach rolls<br />
with toasted sesame<br />
dressing, vegetable<br />
sushi rolls with mango<br />
sauce and deep-fried<br />
agedashi tofu. Or opt<br />
for seared beef on the<br />
charcoal sumibiyaki grill,<br />
braised Iberico pork<br />
cheek with noodles or<br />
sea bass with shiitake<br />
mushrooms and a truffl e<br />
and garlic dressing. With<br />
such a wide choice, it’s<br />
hard to go wrong.<br />
OXO Tower Restaurant<br />
(Barge House Street,<br />
South Bank, SE1, tel:<br />
020 7803 3888) Dine<br />
in one of London’s<br />
landmark buildings and<br />
take in views along the<br />
River Thames. The OXO<br />
Tower stands proudly<br />
on London’s South<br />
Bank and is enviably<br />
one of the fi nest<br />
restaurants with a view<br />
in the city. Watch boats<br />
come and go along the<br />
MINI COOPER<br />
TOURS<br />
Explore London<br />
stylishly in a Mini<br />
Cooper. The smallcar<br />
BIGCITY tours ensure<br />
you see all of London’s<br />
best sights effectively,<br />
giving you more time<br />
to spare (smallcar<br />
bigcity.com).<br />
river as you sip a drink<br />
in the bar before being<br />
seated. The food is à la<br />
carte, and although a<br />
little pricey, well worth<br />
it for the delicious<br />
cuisine coupled with<br />
stunning vistas of<br />
London’s skyline.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Harvey<br />
Nichols Fifth<br />
Floor Bar (109–125<br />
Knightsbridge, SW1,<br />
tel: 020 7235 5250) A<br />
few drinks on the top<br />
fl oor of Harvey Nichols<br />
in Knightsbridge will<br />
certainly set you up<br />
for a top night out.<br />
Once a Champagne<br />
bar and restaurant,<br />
Harvey Nic’s has<br />
developed this<br />
desirable space with<br />
a charming roof terrace.<br />
If the weather is good,<br />
order a delicious rum<br />
cocktail and sip it<br />
while overlooking the<br />
bustling high street<br />
and the rooftops<br />
of one of London’s<br />
most glamorous<br />
boroughs. If you prefer<br />
a Champagne pick-meup,<br />
then the bright and<br />
beautiful lounge-bar is a<br />
lovely setting for a glass<br />
or two of Perrier-Jouët.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Underworld (174<br />
Camden High Street,<br />
NW1, tel: 020 7482<br />
1932) Join London’s<br />
on-the-pulse youngsters<br />
at Underworld in grungy<br />
Camden, where bands<br />
fl ock to perform, and<br />
the parties last until<br />
late. The likes of the<br />
Black Rebel Motorcycle<br />
Club, Radiohead and<br />
Placebo have all graced<br />
DISCOVER ENGLAND<br />
Gentle Cycling, Walking and<br />
Boating Tours of the Cotswolds,<br />
Devon, London, Kent & the Thames<br />
the stage here, and the<br />
venue is legendary for<br />
its cool gigs and wild<br />
nights. April sees the not<br />
well known but fantastic<br />
live band Russian Circles<br />
(13th) and Lionheart on<br />
the 19th.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Queen of Hoxton<br />
(1 Curtain Road, EC2,<br />
tel: 020 7422 0958)<br />
Achingly cool, the<br />
Queen of Hoxton is set<br />
in trendy Shoreditch<br />
among a popular<br />
throng of bars. This<br />
may be the East End of<br />
London, but you won’t<br />
fi nd a spit and sawdust<br />
atmosphere here.<br />
Expect over-the-top<br />
fashionistas and pricey,<br />
but delicious drinks.<br />
The DJ spins all sorts of<br />
sounds from tunes that<br />
are guaranteed to get<br />
you on the dancefl oor,<br />
to songs you’ve never<br />
heard, but will soon<br />
learn to love. Even a trip<br />
to the toilet is intriguing<br />
– there’s enough graffi ti<br />
in there to keep you<br />
entertained all night!<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Do you have a<br />
fun fancy-dress party<br />
planned? Or maybe you<br />
just feel like wearing<br />
something a little<br />
unusual on a night out?<br />
London’s best-known<br />
fancy dress shop,<br />
Angels, is conveniently<br />
placed on Shaftesbury<br />
Avenue, and it has a<br />
whole host of costumes<br />
set over four fl oors. It’s<br />
the largest costume<br />
supplier in the UK,<br />
so you’re sure to fi nd<br />
whatever you’re looking<br />
for, be it elaborate<br />
dresses from the<br />
Elizabethan era, cowboy<br />
get-up Wild Wild Weststyle<br />
or something out<br />
of a fairytale story (119<br />
Shaftesbury Avenue,<br />
WC2, fancydress.com).<br />
SEE From 23 April,<br />
Somerset House plays<br />
host to the Pick Me<br />
Up contemporary<br />
graphic art fair, a fresh<br />
and exciting collection<br />
of works that even if<br />
you can’t pull together<br />
enough funds to ctually<br />
buy a piece, will give<br />
you an insight in to<br />
some of the hottest<br />
new movements and<br />
up-and-coming artists<br />
around (somerset<br />
house.org.uk).<br />
ESCAPE An hour<br />
and a half from London,<br />
Dover Castle is steeped<br />
in history with secret<br />
wartime tunnels,<br />
a Roman tower and<br />
medieval Great Tower.<br />
Wander through the<br />
battlements and see<br />
if you can spot France<br />
across the Channel,<br />
over the famous<br />
White Cliffs (englishheritage.org.uk).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although London is<br />
a pretty pricey location<br />
to fi lm, East London is<br />
the most popular part<br />
of the city to shoot<br />
a movie, playing host to<br />
everything from Oliver!<br />
to A Clockwork Orange.<br />
The naval buildings of<br />
Greenwich even stood<br />
in for Washington in<br />
Patriot Games, too.<br />
Amy Dennis<br />
GENERATOR HOSTELS<br />
SEE OUR ADVERT ON PAGE 150<br />
www.capital-sport.co.uk CAPITAL SPORT +44 (0) 1296 631671
Lyon<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €55.<br />
Catch the<br />
Satobus which<br />
connects with the metro.<br />
Tickets: €8.40 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Les<br />
Loupiotes (4 Rue du<br />
Petit David) Inspired<br />
by local and far fl ung<br />
fl avours, this jem serves<br />
up sublime gastronomic<br />
delights including<br />
spiced-duck risotto.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Pyramide<br />
(14 Boulevard Fernand-<br />
Point, tel: 04 7453 8194)<br />
After savouring the jazz<br />
festival, spoil yourself at<br />
one of France’s oldest<br />
and best-known venues.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Vi’n&Ko<br />
(1 Quai Claude Bernard,<br />
tel: 04 3765 0971) Enjoy<br />
a glass of red under the<br />
terrace next to the river<br />
– a great spot to map out<br />
the evening ahead.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Q Boat (17 Quai<br />
Augagneur, tel: 04<br />
7284 9898) Cocktails<br />
to suit all tastes and<br />
trendsetters get this<br />
plush river boat rocking<br />
until the early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Passage<br />
Thiaffait offers locally<br />
designed clothing for<br />
all tastes. Don’t miss<br />
out on the tiny streets<br />
sloping down to Place<br />
des Terreaux where<br />
you’ll stumble across<br />
street level workshops<br />
(Rue René Leynaud).<br />
SEE The Guignols<br />
(Punch and Judy’s<br />
ancestors) are<br />
celebrated with an<br />
exhibition at La Maison<br />
de Guignol throughout<br />
the month (2 Montée<br />
du Gourguillon) while<br />
popstars Rihanna (20th)<br />
and Mika (24th) rock<br />
the Halle Tony Garnier<br />
(halle-tony-garnier.fr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Since 1536 Lyon has<br />
been considered the silk<br />
capital of the world.<br />
John Brown<br />
Madeira<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Aerobus goes<br />
to the main hotel<br />
area, with 12 services<br />
daily. Tickets: €5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Armazem do Sal (135<br />
Rua da Alfandega,<br />
Funchal, tel: 291 241<br />
285) An atmospheric,<br />
former salt warehouse<br />
which now serves<br />
traditional cuisine with<br />
a modern twist such as<br />
the delicious risotto in<br />
octopus ink or wild boar.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Dining Room (Reid’s<br />
Palace, 139 Estrada<br />
Monumental, Funchal,<br />
tel: 291 717) Dine in<br />
Edwardian splendour<br />
in a room known as<br />
the House of Lords;<br />
lobster and sautéed<br />
calves liver usually<br />
hits the spot.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Apolo<br />
(21 Rua Dr J António<br />
Almeida, tel: 291<br />
2200) This central<br />
bar-restaurant on<br />
a pedestrianised<br />
stretch is the perfect<br />
place to people watch<br />
over a local Coral beer<br />
or Madeira wine.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Jam (60 Avenida Sá<br />
Carneiro, Funchal, tel:<br />
291 234 800) Part of<br />
the Vespas nightclub<br />
complex by the<br />
harbour, Jam attracts<br />
a goodtime crowd<br />
with retro classics by<br />
the likes of Abba and<br />
the Bee Gees. If it’s<br />
cheesey pop you’re<br />
after, this is where<br />
you’ll fi nd it.<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
HOTEL DES<br />
CONGRES<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Set amid the bustling<br />
business district, the<br />
refurbished Hôtel Des<br />
Congrès offers a cosy<br />
base with a relaxed<br />
atmosphere. From<br />
€89, book at hotels.<br />
easyJet.com.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Madeira’s<br />
outdoors comes into<br />
its own in spring and<br />
Moda Desportiva is the<br />
fi rst point of call for<br />
fresh-air enthusiasts,<br />
selling good-quality<br />
walking boots, canes,<br />
T-shirts and sports<br />
equipment (16–18 Rua<br />
5 Outubro, Funchal, tel:<br />
291 211 850).<br />
SEE The Festa da Flor<br />
(festival of the fl owers)<br />
is held over two days<br />
(17–18 April) and<br />
embellishes central<br />
Funchal in a riot of<br />
colour, with various<br />
events culminating in<br />
a grand parade.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Madeira’s sister island<br />
Porto Santo boasts<br />
one of Europe’s best<br />
golf courses; partdesigned<br />
by Severiano<br />
Ballesteros, and it<br />
hosts the Madeira<br />
Island Open this year<br />
from 7–11 April.<br />
Matthew Hancock<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 149<br />
Madrid<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
The number 200<br />
bus leaves on the<br />
hour. Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Pans &<br />
Co (30 Gran Via, tel:<br />
91 531 4818) Pans &<br />
Company does doorwedge<br />
size baguettes,<br />
which are stuffed with<br />
fi llings ranging from a<br />
gut-busting Spanish<br />
omelette and peppers,<br />
to a healthier option of<br />
olives and cheese.<br />
UP TO €30 Kitchen<br />
Stories (3 Calle de<br />
los Cuchilleros,<br />
tel: 91 366 9771)<br />
Modern interiors, a<br />
cosmopolitan menu<br />
and a surprisingly<br />
affordable price tag<br />
are on offer here.<br />
Breaking ranks from<br />
the traditional offerings<br />
around the Plaza<br />
Mayor, don’t leave this<br />
refreshing alternative<br />
without trying the<br />
fabulous New York<br />
cheesecake with<br />
a wicked twist.<br />
UP TO €50 El<br />
Caldero (15 Calle<br />
Huertas, tel: 91 429<br />
5044) Spain is famed<br />
for its paella, but the<br />
king of the varieties<br />
is rice served with<br />
lobster. Try it out at El<br />
Caldero, in the central<br />
Huertas district – it<br />
won’t disappoint.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Garage (7 Calle<br />
Valenzuela, Retiro,<br />
tel: 91 522 6197)<br />
This ultra-hip and<br />
fashionable restaurant<br />
boasts a bar area with<br />
neon chandeliers;<br />
then there’s the sushi<br />
bar, complete with a<br />
native Japanese chef;<br />
and, fi nally, the open<br />
kitchen, sporting a<br />
huge wine rack of reds<br />
for you to choose from.<br />
Ramsés (4 Plaza de la<br />
Independencia, Serrano,<br />
tel: 91 435 9566) A<br />
top-notch design job<br />
from Philippe Starck,<br />
reassuringly expensive<br />
cocktails and highquality<br />
Mediterranean<br />
cuisine are all on offer<br />
at Ramsés, one of the<br />
city’s hottest tickets. Go<br />
Spanish celeb spotting<br />
in this great venue.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Museo<br />
Chicote (12 Gran Via,<br />
tel: 91 532 6737) Pop<br />
by during the day,<br />
and you can enjoy<br />
a relaxed breakfast or<br />
lunch, and contemplate<br />
the famous stars who<br />
have dined here, all<br />
immortalised in photos<br />
adorning the walls.<br />
Swing by at night to<br />
hear some of the city’s<br />
best DJs at the decks.
150 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Madrid<br />
Spain<br />
LIVE MUSIC Siroco<br />
(3 Calle San Dimas,<br />
Noviciado) A lively<br />
programme of local<br />
funk and rock bands<br />
is on offer at Siroco,<br />
which opens its doors<br />
early for gigs, and<br />
then turns into a top<br />
nightclub, which the<br />
city’s young, cool<br />
twentysomethings<br />
head to for fun.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
El Perro de la Parte<br />
Atrás del Coche (13<br />
Calle Puebla, Callao)<br />
Everyone loves a night<br />
at this club – its name<br />
means the dog – with<br />
host and DJ Jamie<br />
spinning everything<br />
from cheesy pop to<br />
banging fl oor-fi llers.<br />
This place is a mustvisit<br />
on your nocturnal<br />
wanderings of the city.<br />
Twist (Sala Wind,<br />
Plaza del Carmen)<br />
Drum ’n’ bass is very<br />
popular with the<br />
dreadlocked, pierced<br />
and tattooed teens and<br />
twentysomethings who<br />
frequent this place.<br />
Check them out at<br />
Twist on Thursday, the<br />
city’s primo night for<br />
the genre.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Calle Barquillo<br />
should be perfect for a<br />
couple to explore, given<br />
that it is fi lled with<br />
stereo and audio-visual<br />
stores for him, as well<br />
as endless fashion<br />
boutiques for her.<br />
SEE They might not<br />
be as impressive as in<br />
southern cities such as<br />
Cádiz, but the Easter<br />
processions in Madrid<br />
are still worth a look.<br />
From Easter Thursday<br />
until Sunday, hooded<br />
penitents will take to<br />
the streets, lending<br />
Madrid a spooky air.<br />
GO A wander round<br />
Plaza Mayor, the city’s<br />
main square, reveals<br />
countless cafés, a<br />
Ben & Jerry’s parlour<br />
tucked away in the<br />
corner and plenty of<br />
top souvenir shops.<br />
Do like the locals<br />
do and grab a<br />
delicious, bulging<br />
calamari baguette.<br />
ESCAPE Buitrago<br />
del Lozoya is a<br />
beautiful medieval<br />
town on the edge of<br />
the mountain range<br />
with 12th-century city<br />
walls and castle ruins<br />
from the 1400s. Be<br />
sure to pay the tiny<br />
Picasso museum a<br />
visit, too. By car the<br />
journey takes over<br />
two hours, but there<br />
are also trains, taking<br />
you past Soria to this<br />
beautiful town.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The excavation project<br />
for the new train<br />
station in Madrid’s<br />
Puerta de Sol created<br />
a cavern so huge that<br />
a 60-fl oor skyscraper<br />
laid on its side could<br />
have fi tted in there.<br />
Simon Hunter<br />
Majorca<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 1 goes to<br />
central Palma.<br />
Tickets: €2. For Arenal<br />
take the number 21 bus.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Diablito<br />
(Locale 41 Puerto<br />
Portals & Porto Pi,<br />
tel: 971 679 400) A<br />
wide variety of pizzas,<br />
fresh pasta dishes<br />
and salads, as well as<br />
moreish nachos and<br />
Tex-Mex meats with<br />
spicy sauces are on the<br />
menu at Diablito.<br />
UP TO €30 Meson<br />
Ca’n Pedro (4 & 14<br />
Carrer Rector Vives,<br />
Génova, tel: 971 702<br />
162) Run by the Esteban<br />
family since 1976,<br />
the two chefs at Ca’n<br />
Pedro have created<br />
something of<br />
a local institution,<br />
serving typical Majorcan<br />
cuisine, such as rabbit<br />
and suckling pig.<br />
UP TO €50 El Pato<br />
(Golf Club Son Vida,<br />
tel: 971 791 500) The<br />
terrace offers superb<br />
views of the expansive<br />
course while you<br />
dine on specialities<br />
such as salad with<br />
chanterelles, bacon<br />
and saddle of<br />
stag with a tasty<br />
Armagnac sauce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Can<br />
Furiós (11 Cami Vell<br />
Binibona, Binibona,<br />
Caimari, tel: 971 515<br />
751) Dine in style on<br />
the garden terrace of<br />
this delightful rural<br />
hotel. The cuisine is<br />
modern Mediterranean<br />
using fresh local<br />
produce with a menu<br />
that changes daily.<br />
Bookings are essential.<br />
Reads Hotel (Santa<br />
Maria del Cami,<br />
tel: 971 140 261)<br />
Legendary for its<br />
exquisite Michelinstarred<br />
dining, with<br />
arguably the best food<br />
and service on the<br />
island. Inspired dishes<br />
include braised Iberian<br />
pork with pumpkin,<br />
and delicious desserts<br />
such as caramelised<br />
pineapple and ginger<br />
lasagne – strange<br />
but delicious.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY L’Espresso<br />
(Paseo del Borne)<br />
A café-cocktail bar<br />
on one of the island’s<br />
busiest shopping<br />
streets, it’s the perfect<br />
place for a quiet<br />
drink after a hard day<br />
on the tourist trail.<br />
Enjoy overlooking the<br />
non-stop bustle of the<br />
street as you relax.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Sala<br />
Assaig (16 Gremi<br />
Porgadors, tel: 971 431<br />
344) If you like your<br />
music loud and heavy,<br />
this venue regularly<br />
hosts local and<br />
international rock and<br />
punk bands.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kaelum (Via<br />
Argentina) This club<br />
caters for a trendy set<br />
of thirtysomethings<br />
with dance music<br />
from the late 1980s–<br />
1990s. Open from<br />
8pm on Wednesday<br />
for the weekly afterwork<br />
parties and<br />
11pm till late other<br />
nights of the week.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP El Corte Ingles<br />
is a Spanish institution,<br />
where you’ll fi nd<br />
everything from<br />
clothes, household<br />
goods, electronics and<br />
perfumes. Palma is<br />
lucky enough to have<br />
two of the gargantuan<br />
stores at 15 Jaime III<br />
and 12–16 Avenida<br />
Alexandre Rosselló.<br />
SHOP Natural<br />
Mente specialises<br />
in sculptures made<br />
HOTEL<br />
MARINA LUZ<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
The Marina Luz is an<br />
exclusive residence,<br />
with a friendly vibe<br />
and great views of<br />
the Bay of Palma.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €78, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
from natural products.<br />
The shop also sells<br />
everything a budding<br />
jeweller can ask for,<br />
including beautiful<br />
beads and stones<br />
(3 Carre Palau Reial,<br />
tel: 971 425 453).<br />
SEE The fabulous<br />
Teatre Principal de<br />
Palma holds a whole<br />
host of fantastic<br />
events each month,<br />
and this year, the<br />
theatre has promised<br />
to deliver superb opera<br />
at fantastic prices.<br />
Rally round to support<br />
the local theatre and<br />
enjoy an evening of<br />
culture within these<br />
beautiful surrounds<br />
(La Plaça Major<br />
i Jaume III).<br />
GO Genova is a quaint<br />
village perched high in<br />
the hills behind Bellver<br />
Castle. Thanks to its<br />
great location, just 10<br />
minutes away from the<br />
city and with glorious<br />
views, it also attracts<br />
Majorcans and tourists<br />
wanting to sample the<br />
excellent restaurants.<br />
ESCAPE Near Söller<br />
lies the picturepostcard<br />
village of<br />
Fornalutx. Nestled<br />
among the mountains,<br />
it’s a popular<br />
destination for walkers<br />
and hikers. Enjoy a long<br />
day out hiking here.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Until the elections of<br />
2007, Valldemossa’s<br />
mayor was the only<br />
one in the democratic<br />
Kingdom of Spain to<br />
remain in offi ce from<br />
the times of Franco’s<br />
dictatorship.<br />
David Anderson
Málaga<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €15.<br />
Buses go to<br />
Málaga, with links<br />
to all the coastal resorts.<br />
Tickets: €1.20.<br />
There is a train<br />
linking the airport<br />
with Málaga and the<br />
Costa del Sol resorts,<br />
including Fuengirola<br />
and Torremolinos.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Bar Los Pueblos<br />
(Calle Ataranzas) The<br />
place to come if you<br />
are seeking a local<br />
bar-restaurant serving<br />
superb traditional<br />
food. Expect<br />
malagueño fodder<br />
for a great price.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Lechuga (1 Plaza de<br />
la Merced) Named<br />
after the humble<br />
lettuce, this is a<br />
great central place<br />
for tapas and tasty<br />
light eats, including a<br />
carrot-based hummus<br />
and a tasty carpaccio<br />
pancake. Don’t worry<br />
there’s everything but<br />
rabbits’ food on the<br />
vast menu.<br />
UP TO €50 Parador<br />
Gibralfaro (Monte<br />
Gibralfaro, tel: 952<br />
221 902) Enjoy<br />
spectacular city and<br />
coastal views as you<br />
dine on traditional<br />
dishes, such as oxtail<br />
and paella. Kickstart<br />
your meal with a glass<br />
of cold fi n o (dry sherry)<br />
on the terrace, for an<br />
enjoyable aperitif.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Polo House (11<br />
Bulevard Principe<br />
Alfonso Hohenlohe,<br />
Marbella, tel: 952<br />
900 380) Owned by<br />
James Hewitt, this<br />
sophisticated venue<br />
is the perfect place<br />
for an elegant and<br />
relaxed night out.<br />
Enjoy a tantalising mix<br />
of international and<br />
British cuisine with<br />
a focus on seasonal<br />
and national produce,<br />
such as prime Galician<br />
beef, which is superb.<br />
Café de Paris (8 Calle<br />
Vélez Málaga, tel:<br />
952 225 043) One of<br />
Málaga’s time-tested<br />
top restaurants, the<br />
cuisine has a city-slick<br />
sophistication while<br />
the cosy red and<br />
mahogany interior is<br />
ideal for a romantic<br />
dinner. Try the solomillo<br />
de buey Café de Paris<br />
(beef fi llet with herbbutter<br />
sauce).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bodega<br />
Quitapenas (Cuesta<br />
del Tajo, Torremolinos,<br />
tel: 952 386 244)<br />
Halfway down the<br />
steps leading from<br />
central Torremolinos<br />
to the sands and sea of<br />
the fabulous coastline,<br />
this old-fashioned<br />
bar makes a killer<br />
Champagne cocktail<br />
to set your night<br />
off in style.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Vista<br />
Andalucía (29 Avenida<br />
de Los Guindos, tel:<br />
952 231 157) Check<br />
out this place for some<br />
lively, castanet-clicking<br />
fl amenco. It’s more<br />
authentic than the<br />
Costa polka-dot<br />
scene, that’s why<br />
reservations are<br />
essential, and locals<br />
pack out the place.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
London Pub (Paseo<br />
Marítimo, Fuengirola)<br />
A casual yet buzzy<br />
Brit-run pub among<br />
a slew of similar bars<br />
and clubs near the<br />
port, with dancing<br />
space and thumping<br />
DJ sounds at<br />
weekends, giving you<br />
a taste of home on<br />
the golden coastline<br />
of the Costa del Sol.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For some real<br />
bargains, especially<br />
in beachwear, bags,<br />
shoes and leatherware,<br />
head for the strip of<br />
shops facing the La<br />
Carihuela beach in<br />
Torremolinos. There<br />
are plenty of bars<br />
here, for enjoying<br />
a little respite time<br />
in between the<br />
retail therapy.<br />
GO This is the<br />
perfect time of year<br />
to visit Málaga’s<br />
lovely botanical<br />
gardens, situated<br />
east of the centre.<br />
The Jardín Botaníco<br />
La Concepcíon dates<br />
from the 19th century<br />
and is a lush tropical<br />
oasis, complete with<br />
fountains, statues<br />
and lots of rare trees<br />
and plants to wander<br />
through lazily.<br />
ESCAPE A swift 65km<br />
south-east of Marbella,<br />
Castellar de la Frontera<br />
is a striking village<br />
enclosed within the<br />
walls of a 13th-century<br />
castle. Residents here<br />
are an eclectic mix of<br />
grey ponytails, young<br />
Spaniards and elderly<br />
locals, well worth an<br />
afternoon’s people<br />
watching. And there are<br />
several places to eat<br />
and drink, too.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
SEMANA<br />
SANTA<br />
SEE The south of<br />
Spain is renowned for<br />
its Easter weekend<br />
parades (1–5 April).<br />
Expect lots of people,<br />
lots of food and drink,<br />
and costumes too.<br />
It’s a momentous<br />
occasion to see.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The enormous fl oats<br />
that you see during<br />
the Easter week<br />
parades can weigh<br />
more than 3100kgs,<br />
and it typically takes<br />
between 40–50 men<br />
to lift each one!<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 153<br />
Malta<br />
Malta<br />
DIALLING CODE +356<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €16.<br />
Route 8 services<br />
Valletta (and<br />
the island’s main<br />
bus station).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Tal<br />
Kaptan (Qawra Coast<br />
Road, Qawra, tel: 2157<br />
7101) Loved by locals<br />
for its varied menu<br />
and huge portions, Tal<br />
Kaptan is one of your<br />
best bets if you’re in<br />
the mood for pizza.<br />
The calzone, which is<br />
stuffed with delicious<br />
local ingredients, is<br />
loved by many.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Risorante Venezia<br />
(Casino di Venezia, The<br />
Waterfront, Vittoriosa,<br />
tel: 2180 5580) Set<br />
within Malta’s chic<br />
casino and specialising<br />
in delicious fi sh<br />
dishes, Ristorante<br />
Venezia ticks all the<br />
boxes for scrummy<br />
food, great service<br />
and striking views of<br />
the surrounding marina<br />
and poker players.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Portside<br />
Lounge (71 The Strand,<br />
Sliema, tel: 2133 3653)<br />
Fun and friendly, this<br />
sports bar is the spot to<br />
catch live games on one<br />
of the 16 big-screens<br />
adorning the walls here.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Klozet (Ball Street,<br />
Paceville) The islands’<br />
premiere gay and lesbian<br />
club is open on Friday<br />
and Saturday nights<br />
offering a glittering<br />
good time to all.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Marsaxlokk<br />
market in the south<br />
is held every Sunday<br />
morning. It’s the best<br />
place to buy fresh<br />
fi sh and produce, and<br />
the charming boats<br />
bobbing on the bay<br />
provide a chocolatebox<br />
backdrop.<br />
GO The islands are<br />
famous for their<br />
fi reworks and the Malta<br />
International Fireworks<br />
festival takes place on<br />
29 and 30 April, set<br />
against the backdrop<br />
of the island’s famous<br />
Grand Harbour. If you’re<br />
into this sort of thing,<br />
you could also check out<br />
the Floriana display of<br />
fi reworks and Catherine<br />
wheels on the 24th.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Holy Week in Malta will<br />
run until 4 April. Statues<br />
are solemnly carried<br />
through the streets by<br />
folk dressed as biblical<br />
characters, and people<br />
“in penitence” carry a<br />
cross or drag chains to<br />
repent for their sins.<br />
Jo Caruana
Málaga<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €15.<br />
Buses go to<br />
Málaga, with links<br />
to all the coastal resorts.<br />
Tickets: €1.20.<br />
There is a train<br />
linking the airport<br />
with Málaga and the<br />
Costa del Sol resorts,<br />
including Fuengirola<br />
and Torremolinos.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Bar Los Pueblos<br />
(Calle Ataranzas) The<br />
place to come if you<br />
are seeking a local<br />
bar-restaurant serving<br />
superb traditional<br />
food. Expect<br />
malagueño fodder<br />
for a great price.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Lechuga (1 Plaza de<br />
la Merced) Named<br />
after the humble<br />
lettuce, this is a<br />
great central place<br />
for tapas and tasty<br />
light eats, including a<br />
carrot-based hummus<br />
and a tasty carpaccio<br />
pancake. Don’t worry<br />
there’s everything but<br />
rabbits’ food on the<br />
vast menu.<br />
UP TO €50 Parador<br />
Gibralfaro (Monte<br />
Gibralfaro, tel: 952<br />
221 902) Enjoy<br />
spectacular city and<br />
coastal views as you<br />
dine on traditional<br />
dishes, such as oxtail<br />
and paella. Kickstart<br />
your meal with a glass<br />
of cold fi n o (dry sherry)<br />
on the terrace, for an<br />
enjoyable aperitif.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Polo House (11<br />
Bulevard Principe<br />
Alfonso Hohenlohe,<br />
Marbella, tel: 952<br />
900 380) Owned by<br />
James Hewitt, this<br />
sophisticated venue<br />
is the perfect place<br />
for an elegant and<br />
relaxed night out.<br />
Enjoy a tantalising mix<br />
of international and<br />
British cuisine with<br />
a focus on seasonal<br />
and national produce,<br />
such as prime Galician<br />
beef, which is superb.<br />
Café de Paris (8 Calle<br />
Vélez Málaga, tel:<br />
952 225 043) One of<br />
Málaga’s time-tested<br />
top restaurants, the<br />
cuisine has a city-slick<br />
sophistication while<br />
the cosy red and<br />
mahogany interior is<br />
ideal for a romantic<br />
dinner. Try the solomillo<br />
de buey Café de Paris<br />
(beef fi llet with herbbutter<br />
sauce).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bodega<br />
Quitapenas (Cuesta<br />
del Tajo, Torremolinos,<br />
tel: 952 386 244)<br />
Halfway down the<br />
steps leading from<br />
central Torremolinos<br />
to the sands and sea of<br />
the fabulous coastline,<br />
this old-fashioned<br />
bar makes a killer<br />
Champagne cocktail<br />
to set your night<br />
off in style.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Vista<br />
Andalucía (29 Avenida<br />
de Los Guindos, tel:<br />
952 231 157) Check<br />
out this place for some<br />
lively, castanet-clicking<br />
fl amenco. It’s more<br />
authentic than the<br />
Costa polka-dot<br />
scene, that’s why<br />
reservations are<br />
essential, and locals<br />
pack out the place.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
London Pub (Paseo<br />
Marítimo, Fuengirola)<br />
A casual yet buzzy<br />
Brit-run pub among<br />
a slew of similar bars<br />
and clubs near the<br />
port, with dancing<br />
space and thumping<br />
DJ sounds at<br />
weekends, giving you<br />
a taste of home on<br />
the golden coastline<br />
of the Costa del Sol.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For some real<br />
bargains, especially<br />
in beachwear, bags,<br />
shoes and leatherware,<br />
head for the strip of<br />
shops facing the La<br />
Carihuela beach in<br />
Torremolinos. There<br />
are plenty of bars<br />
here, for enjoying<br />
a little respite time<br />
in between the<br />
retail therapy.<br />
GO This is the<br />
perfect time of year<br />
to visit Málaga’s<br />
lovely botanical<br />
gardens, situated<br />
east of the centre.<br />
The Jardín Botaníco<br />
La Concepcíon dates<br />
from the 19th century<br />
and is a lush tropical<br />
oasis, complete with<br />
fountains, statues<br />
and lots of rare trees<br />
and plants to wander<br />
through lazily.<br />
ESCAPE A swift 65km<br />
south-east of Marbella,<br />
Castellar de la Frontera<br />
is a striking village<br />
enclosed within the<br />
walls of a 13th-century<br />
castle. Residents here<br />
are an eclectic mix of<br />
grey ponytails, young<br />
Spaniards and elderly<br />
locals, well worth an<br />
afternoon’s people<br />
watching. And there are<br />
several places to eat<br />
and drink, too.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
SEMANA<br />
SANTA<br />
SEE The south of<br />
Spain is renowned for<br />
its Easter weekend<br />
parades (1–5 April).<br />
Expect lots of people,<br />
lots of food and drink,<br />
and costumes too.<br />
It’s a momentous<br />
occasion to see.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The enormous fl oats<br />
that you see during<br />
the Easter week<br />
parades can weigh<br />
more than 3100kgs,<br />
and it typically takes<br />
between 40–50 men<br />
to lift each one!<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 153<br />
Malta<br />
Malta<br />
DIALLING CODE +356<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €16.<br />
Route 8 services<br />
Valletta (and<br />
the island’s main<br />
bus station).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Tal<br />
Kaptan (Qawra Coast<br />
Road, Qawra, tel: 2157<br />
7101) Loved by locals<br />
for its varied menu<br />
and huge portions, Tal<br />
Kaptan is one of your<br />
best bets if you’re in<br />
the mood for pizza.<br />
The calzone, which is<br />
stuffed with delicious<br />
local ingredients, is<br />
loved by many.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Risorante Venezia<br />
(Casino di Venezia, The<br />
Waterfront, Vittoriosa,<br />
tel: 2180 5580) Set<br />
within Malta’s chic<br />
casino and specialising<br />
in delicious fi sh<br />
dishes, Ristorante<br />
Venezia ticks all the<br />
boxes for scrummy<br />
food, great service<br />
and striking views of<br />
the surrounding marina<br />
and poker players.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Portside<br />
Lounge (71 The Strand,<br />
Sliema, tel: 2133 3653)<br />
Fun and friendly, this<br />
sports bar is the spot to<br />
catch live games on one<br />
of the 16 big-screens<br />
adorning the walls here.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Klozet (Ball Street,<br />
Paceville) The islands’<br />
premiere gay and lesbian<br />
club is open on Friday<br />
and Saturday nights<br />
offering a glittering<br />
good time to all.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Marsaxlokk<br />
market in the south<br />
is held every Sunday<br />
morning. It’s the best<br />
place to buy fresh<br />
fi sh and produce, and<br />
the charming boats<br />
bobbing on the bay<br />
provide a chocolatebox<br />
backdrop.<br />
GO The islands are<br />
famous for their<br />
fi reworks and the Malta<br />
International Fireworks<br />
festival takes place on<br />
29 and 30 April, set<br />
against the backdrop<br />
of the island’s famous<br />
Grand Harbour. If you’re<br />
into this sort of thing,<br />
you could also check out<br />
the Floriana display of<br />
fi reworks and Catherine<br />
wheels on the 24th.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Holy Week in Malta will<br />
run until 4 April. Statues<br />
are solemnly carried<br />
through the streets by<br />
folk dressed as biblical<br />
characters, and people<br />
“in penitence” carry a<br />
cross or drag chains to<br />
repent for their sins.<br />
Jo Caruana
Manchester<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £20.<br />
Trains depart for<br />
the city centre<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
Tickets: £5.40 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Koffee<br />
Pot (21 Hilton Street,<br />
tel: 0161 228 1484)<br />
This funky café dishes<br />
up lunchtime grub to<br />
fashionable shoppers.<br />
Tuck in to lasagne, fat<br />
chips, tea and all day<br />
breakfasts, at fantastic<br />
take-out prices.<br />
UP TO €30 Ning<br />
(92–94 Oldham<br />
Street, tel: 0161 238<br />
9088) In bold pink and<br />
black surrounds, try<br />
the steamed sea bass<br />
with ginger, basil pad<br />
prik or satay chicken<br />
from Ning’s modern<br />
Malaysian menu.<br />
UP TO €50 Albert’s<br />
Shed (2 Castle Street,<br />
Castlefi eld, tel: 0161<br />
839 9818) This relaxed<br />
pub-come-restaurant<br />
by the canal serves<br />
up local produce with<br />
an Italian kick. Dishes<br />
such as venison with<br />
berry jus are typical, the<br />
chef’s take on classic<br />
puddings are the right<br />
side of imaginative and<br />
there’s a great wine list<br />
to sample, too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
The River Bar And<br />
Restaurant (Lowry<br />
Hotel, Dearman’s Place,<br />
Salford, tel: 0161 827<br />
4000) This minimal<br />
restaurant is home to<br />
modern British fare,<br />
two AA rosettes and<br />
any number of famous<br />
football players. Start<br />
with pumpkin soup<br />
followed by Welsh salt<br />
marsh lamb and a<br />
glass or two from the<br />
French-leaning wine list<br />
on the side. To fi nish,<br />
the Earl Grey parfait<br />
is a memorable affair,<br />
accompanied by a<br />
steaming pot of coffee.<br />
Ramsons (18 Market<br />
Place, Ramsbottom,<br />
tel: 01706 825 070)<br />
Although it lies outside<br />
city limits, Ramsons<br />
is well worth the<br />
short drive. In simple,<br />
tasteful surrounds,<br />
owner Chris Johnson<br />
will guide you through<br />
the Italian creations<br />
and pair menu choices<br />
with options from his<br />
award-winning cellar.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Space<br />
(11 New Wakefi eld<br />
Street, tel: 0161<br />
236 4899) This<br />
aptly-named bar and<br />
restaurant offers<br />
Mediterranean snacks,<br />
drinks and relaxed<br />
sounds away from the<br />
hustle and bustle of<br />
Oxford Road. If you<br />
fancy a bit of fresh<br />
air, there’s a luscious<br />
garden on the roof, too.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Manchester<br />
Academy (Oxford<br />
Road, tel: 0161 275<br />
2930) The university’s<br />
student’s union is<br />
home to some of<br />
the country’s fi nest<br />
minds and a haven for<br />
up-and-coming bands,<br />
too. Across four live<br />
venues, guests in April<br />
include Alphabeat and<br />
Reef, who both play on<br />
the 24th.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Electriks (559<br />
Wilbraham Road,<br />
Northern Quarter,<br />
tel: 0161 881 3315)<br />
Run by DJ duo<br />
the Unabombers,<br />
this suburban bar<br />
specialises in coffee,<br />
real ales, snacks and<br />
classic tunes. Inspired<br />
by a 1970s front<br />
room, it’s fi lled with<br />
pot plants, standard<br />
lamps, and guest<br />
spinners such as<br />
Andrew Weatherall.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Home to a<br />
bouquet of quirky and<br />
kitsch outlets, Affl ecks<br />
Palace is an alternative<br />
department store<br />
fi lled with everything<br />
fun. Vintage fashions,<br />
collectables, posters,<br />
pop art, jewellery and<br />
bags are all mustbuys,<br />
and there are<br />
barbers and beauty<br />
salons to sample, too<br />
(52 Church Street,<br />
affl ecks.com).<br />
SEE Walls are Talking<br />
is a new exhibition<br />
showcasing radical<br />
wallpaper throughout<br />
the month at the<br />
Whitworth Art Gallery.<br />
With contributions<br />
from Damian Hirst,<br />
Andy Warhol and rising<br />
stars such as Thomas<br />
Demand and Zineb<br />
Sedira, home décor<br />
may never be the same<br />
again (Whitworth Art<br />
Gallery, Oxford Road).<br />
GO Watery Salford<br />
Quays is home to<br />
a clutch of cultural<br />
attractions. The café at<br />
the Lowry Arts Centre<br />
offers exceptional<br />
views over the old<br />
ship canal and the<br />
imposing Imperial<br />
War Museum, while<br />
shoppers will enjoy the<br />
Lowry Outlet Mall’s<br />
designer boutiques<br />
offering a wide range<br />
of fantastic products<br />
at bargain prices.<br />
ESCAPE Macclesfi eld<br />
nestles in the hills,<br />
at the fringe of the<br />
Peak District. Home to<br />
Paradise Mill and The<br />
Silk Museum Heritage<br />
Centre, tour the<br />
Victorian-era looms<br />
and halls of the old<br />
silk factory before<br />
heading into town to<br />
check out the chic<br />
shops and gastro<br />
pubs (macclesfi eld.<br />
silk.museum).<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Manchester was a<br />
small unheard of<br />
rustic town before<br />
becoming an<br />
international player<br />
in the cotton trade in<br />
the 19th century. Now<br />
it’s one of England’s<br />
biggest cities.<br />
Ruth Allan<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 155<br />
Marrakech<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs MAD60.<br />
The hourly L19<br />
bus goes to<br />
the Jemaa el Fna.<br />
Tickets: MAD20 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Kozybar<br />
(47 Place des Ferblantier,<br />
tel: 0524 380 324)<br />
Sink into white sofas<br />
on the roof terrace, and<br />
tuck into salads, sushi<br />
or something more<br />
traditional. Nesting<br />
LOW<br />
KEY<br />
Kssour Agafay (52<br />
Sabar Grawa, tel: 0524<br />
427 000) A beautiful<br />
private members’<br />
club, this 15th-century<br />
riad is also open to<br />
non-members. Enjoy<br />
a drink on the open-air<br />
patio or roof terrace.<br />
storks nearby offer<br />
gentle entertainment.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Riad<br />
Lotus Privilege<br />
(9 Derb Sidi Ali Ben<br />
Hamdouche, Medina<br />
North, tel: 0524 387<br />
318) An excellent choice<br />
for an utterly romantic<br />
evening, this venue is<br />
great for gourmets.<br />
Offering only a sevencourse<br />
tasting menu, go<br />
with a healthy appetite<br />
and a large wallet.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
White Room (Hotel<br />
Royal Mirage, Rue de<br />
Paris, Hivernage, tel:<br />
0524 448 998) The<br />
White Room offers<br />
celebrity DJs within<br />
a great interior of<br />
utter elegance.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP El Badi has only<br />
the most authentic<br />
antiques in town. Here<br />
you can fi nd a glittering<br />
display of ancient<br />
treasures arranged over<br />
two fl oors (54 Boulevard<br />
Moulay Rachid, Gueliz).<br />
SEE Cadi Ayyad<br />
University is where the<br />
party’s at from 20–23<br />
April, with hundreds<br />
of young musicians<br />
coming to town for the<br />
annual International<br />
University Music<br />
Festival of Marrakech<br />
(511 Avenue Prince).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Fans of the Sex and the<br />
City movie rejoice; the<br />
girls fi lmed a segment<br />
of the sequel in Jemaa<br />
el Fna, Marrakech’s<br />
main square.<br />
Nick Clarke/Hg2.com<br />
Exceptional country retreat in the Luberon<br />
Just over an hour north of Marseille airport lies this exceptional holiday property. Comfortably<br />
sleeping 14, this farmhouse comes with a fantastic pool and tennis court and is set amongst<br />
the rolling woodlands of the Luberon, close to Forcalquier, a bustling medieval market town.<br />
Private catering, babysitting, yoga, massage, manicure/pedicure and tennis tuition available on request.<br />
Visit www.lejasdescannebieres.com<br />
or phone +447977 537 510 to book your piece of Provence heaven
156 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Marseille<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €50.<br />
A shuttle bus runs<br />
to Marseille’s<br />
Gare St Charles.<br />
Tickets: €8.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 L’Argentin<br />
Grill (2 Rue du Rouet,<br />
tel: 04 9178 9565) South<br />
America meets the<br />
Mediterranean at this<br />
restaurant known for its<br />
quality meat. Carnivores<br />
will appreciate the wide<br />
selection of meat dishes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Une<br />
Table au Sud (2 Quai<br />
du Port, tel: 04 9190<br />
6353) Lionel Levy never<br />
fails to disappoint his<br />
diners with specialities<br />
that include pieds et<br />
paquets (lamb parcels),<br />
or the decidedly fi shy<br />
macaroni poutargue<br />
(pasta with fi sh eggs).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY L’Agachon<br />
(20 Cours Julien, tel: 06<br />
8342 7907) A laidback<br />
café lightens up the<br />
inner-city Cours Julien.<br />
Linger over a long coffee.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
L’Art Haché (14<br />
Rue de l’Olivier, tel:<br />
0496124589) This late<br />
night/early morning<br />
watering hole stays<br />
open until 6am.<br />
Favoured by a young<br />
crowd keen to party<br />
after the bars have shut.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Pick up a bargain<br />
from La Marotte, a<br />
vintage boutique dealing<br />
in recycled designer<br />
clothes, handbags and<br />
shoes (207 Rue Paradis).<br />
SEE Get your<br />
running gear on and<br />
join the Marseille<br />
Marathon which<br />
takes in all the city’s<br />
great sights (18 April,<br />
marseillemarathon.fr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Marseille’s climate and<br />
friendly people were<br />
praised in a recent<br />
tourist board survey,<br />
but the city’s lack of<br />
cleanliness and traffi c<br />
drew criticism.<br />
Adrienne Bourgeon<br />
NEW HOTEL<br />
BOMPARD<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Above the cliff<br />
road, the New Hotel<br />
Bompard is an<br />
oasis of calm with<br />
its inviting pool.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €149, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
Milan<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
LINATE<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €25.<br />
ATM’s route 73<br />
connects with the<br />
metro at San Babila.<br />
Tickets: €1. The Starfl y<br />
goes to Centrale station.<br />
Tickets: €4.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
MALPENSA<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €70.<br />
The Malpensa<br />
Shuttle departs<br />
for Centrale station.<br />
Tickets: €7.<br />
The Malpensa<br />
Express departs<br />
from Terminal 1 for<br />
Cadorna station.<br />
Tickets: €11.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Bar<br />
Magenta (13 Via<br />
Carducci) This ornate<br />
bar makes a good port<br />
of call for a beer and<br />
a sandwich – the range<br />
of mouthwatering<br />
fi llings includes wild<br />
boar, for the brave.<br />
UP TO €30 Le Vent<br />
du Nord (18 Via Sannio,<br />
tel: 02 5518 9027) This<br />
Belgian brasserie has<br />
been a success from<br />
the start in the city, with<br />
its sausages and meat<br />
dishes served up with<br />
rich sauces and mash,<br />
plus the compulsory<br />
mussels and chips.<br />
There’s a good<br />
selection of Belgian<br />
lagers on tap and by<br />
the bottle, too.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Sant’Eustorgio<br />
(6 Piazza<br />
Sant’Eustorgio, tel:<br />
02 5810 1396) This<br />
traditional eatery in<br />
the shadow of one<br />
of Milan’s historic<br />
churches – Basilica<br />
di Sant’Eustorgio – is<br />
great for a lively group,<br />
and there’s plenty of<br />
choice among the<br />
pizza, risotto, pasta,<br />
meat and fi sh dishes<br />
on the menu.<br />
Salumeria del Vino<br />
(30 Via Cadore, tel:<br />
02 5518 4931)<br />
A classic wine bar<br />
offering a good<br />
selection of red, white<br />
and sparkling wines<br />
at honest prices plus<br />
a delicious array of<br />
salami and other<br />
cooked meats. There’s<br />
an outside area with<br />
a veranda if the early<br />
summer sun is shining.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Yacout<br />
(25 Via Cadore, tel: 02<br />
546 2230) Yacout is<br />
a real theme park<br />
for the senses with<br />
an exotic menu of<br />
Moroccan cuisine<br />
including couscous,<br />
tagines, soups and<br />
kebabs. Set menus,<br />
exotic drinks and<br />
belly dancers are all<br />
included in the top<br />
notch prices.<br />
Joia (18 Via Panfi lo<br />
Castaldi, tel: 02<br />
2952 2124) This<br />
upmarket hautecuisine<br />
vegetarian<br />
was founded by Swiss<br />
chef Pietro Leemann<br />
and though there’s<br />
no meat on the menu<br />
there’s a big selection<br />
of cheeses, and<br />
wines. This place will<br />
convince even the<br />
staunchest carnivores<br />
that an all-veg<br />
selection can taste<br />
delicious, too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY 56<br />
(56 Via Tucidide) This<br />
old industrial space<br />
with post-modern<br />
décor is worth the bus<br />
ride from the centre<br />
alone. A great place<br />
to meet up for<br />
a cocktail and savour<br />
the displays of<br />
painting and sculpture<br />
for a few hours as you<br />
plan your next move.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Lo<br />
Stacco (10 Via Noto,<br />
tel: 02 3705 2223)<br />
This unusual hideaway<br />
combines Caribbean<br />
cooking with live Latin<br />
music at weekends.<br />
A welcome change<br />
from the predictable<br />
Milanese discobar-club<br />
format. Enjoy watching<br />
the sexy experts dance,<br />
and try a few steps<br />
yourself, if you dare!<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Quinte Club (61 Via<br />
Cosenz, tel: 02 4507<br />
1042) A big club on<br />
the west side of the<br />
city with commercial<br />
tracks on Friday nights<br />
and Saturdays devoted<br />
to electronica and<br />
hip hop. Doors open<br />
from 11pm onwards,<br />
and no one thinks of<br />
going home till well<br />
after 3am.<br />
Crazy Jungle<br />
(26 Via Cavriana,<br />
tel: 02 7000 9831)<br />
This old farmhouse<br />
just outside the city<br />
has something for<br />
all tastes with its<br />
restaurant, discobar,<br />
Latin American<br />
cocktails and<br />
commercial music<br />
on weekends.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The latest<br />
arrival on Milan’s<br />
boutique scene is M<br />
Missoni, where you<br />
can browse the latest<br />
women’s creations<br />
by Angela Missoni in<br />
a striking new space.<br />
Prepare to splash<br />
the cash though,<br />
everything carries a<br />
hefty price tag here<br />
(2 Corso Venezia).<br />
SHOP Try traditional<br />
Sicilian pastries<br />
(cannoli and cassate)<br />
at Fratelli Freni, a little<br />
pasticceria just around<br />
the corner from the<br />
Duomo. Buy the cute<br />
coloured fruits made<br />
from marzipan as well<br />
as Easter delicacies<br />
to take home to the<br />
family (3 Via Beccaria,<br />
tel: 02 7631 8070).<br />
SEE The hottest<br />
event on the European<br />
design calendar is the<br />
Salone Internazionale<br />
del Mobile and<br />
showcases furniture,
kitchens, bathrooms<br />
and accessories from<br />
cutting-edge creators.<br />
Drawing thousands<br />
of visitors to Milan<br />
every year, the Salone<br />
has also become<br />
famous for its fringe<br />
events and parties.<br />
Running from 14–19<br />
April, it’s held at<br />
the Fiera Milano<br />
exhibition area (tel:<br />
02 725 941, cosmit.it).<br />
GO The Quadrilatero<br />
d’Oro, or the Golden<br />
Triangle, is the area<br />
that forms Milan’s<br />
famous fashion<br />
district. Armani’s<br />
latest venture is to<br />
open a café in the<br />
boutique with a<br />
new look, high-class<br />
food, cocktails and<br />
brunch on Sundays<br />
(31 Via Manzoni, tel:<br />
02 6231 2680). The<br />
Armani store is at<br />
the northern end of<br />
the shopping area<br />
centering around Via<br />
Monte Napoleone, Via<br />
Sant’Andrea and Via<br />
della Spiga.<br />
GO The historic<br />
quarter of Isola<br />
Garibaldi has a<br />
youthful, multicultural<br />
vibe thanks to its<br />
specialist boutiques,<br />
antiques shops,<br />
restaurants and bars.<br />
The area extends<br />
north from Garibaldi<br />
train station, while<br />
to the south there<br />
is Corso Como, one<br />
of the city’s busiest<br />
nightlife streets and<br />
home to the famous<br />
Hollywood Club.<br />
ESCAPE The largest<br />
and most impressive<br />
of the northern Italian<br />
lakes is Lake Maggiore,<br />
100km outside of<br />
Milan, and it’s easily<br />
reachable by train<br />
or motorway. The<br />
lakeside towns of<br />
Stresa, Verbania<br />
and Baveno are<br />
picturesque places to<br />
stay or stop for a meal,<br />
while the views of the<br />
Alps from the lake<br />
shore are magnifi cent<br />
in clear weather.<br />
There are three small<br />
islands in the lake,<br />
all with individual<br />
charms. Isola Madre<br />
has botanic gardens<br />
and a 16th-century<br />
palace; Isola Bella has<br />
terraced gardens and<br />
a palace dating from<br />
the 17th century, and<br />
Isola dei Pescatori<br />
still preserves its<br />
small island fi shing<br />
community.<br />
ESCAPE Lago<br />
d’Iseo is the least<br />
well known and least<br />
spoilt of the northern<br />
Italian lakes. This<br />
picturesque area is<br />
not far from Bergamo,<br />
north-east of Milan,<br />
and has a refreshingly<br />
authentic, untouristy<br />
atmosphere. Eat with<br />
the locals in their<br />
lakeside restaurants<br />
serving the day’s<br />
catch, then take<br />
a walk and admire<br />
the stunning<br />
mountain scenery.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
For greater powers of<br />
deduction, surnames<br />
in Milan and northern<br />
Italy mostly end in “i”<br />
whereas in the south,<br />
they mostly end in “o”.<br />
Charles Searson<br />
Montpellier<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Take the bus to<br />
Place de l’Europe.<br />
Tickets: €4.90 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Kinoa (6<br />
Rue des Soeurs Noires,<br />
tel: 04 6715 3438) Dine<br />
among sleek, modern<br />
décor featuring a scarlet<br />
chandelier. The cuisine<br />
is modern French, with<br />
nouvelle leanings.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le Mas<br />
des Brousses (Rue<br />
du Mas-des-Brousses,<br />
Odysseum, tel: 04 6764<br />
1891) Sublime cuisine<br />
is expertly served by<br />
attentive staff, within<br />
this venue’s classy<br />
décor. Try the carpaccio<br />
of truffl es, in what must<br />
be one of Montpellier’s<br />
best-kept foodie secrets.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Rebuffy<br />
(2 Rue Rebuffy) Good<br />
ales and stouts, free<br />
board games and a<br />
young, funky crowd<br />
make this a great place<br />
to make new friends.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Le<br />
Circus (3 Rue Collot, tel:<br />
04 6760 4205) A New<br />
York-style ambience has<br />
hit southern France at Le<br />
Circus. Dress to impress<br />
or you won’t get in.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Montpellier is<br />
proud to boast the only<br />
Apple store outside of<br />
Paris. Naturally it is in the<br />
fantastically-wonderful,<br />
brand-new Odysseum<br />
shopping centre (tel: 04<br />
6713 9900).<br />
GO La Place de la<br />
Comédie is the true<br />
heart of Montpellier,<br />
complete with cafés,<br />
bars, cinema, theatres,<br />
fountains and buskers.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Montpellier is an<br />
ambassador for<br />
recycling – the council<br />
even collects fridges and<br />
freezers, so if you see<br />
one while you’re walking<br />
along the road, don’t<br />
worry, someone will be<br />
along to pick it up soon.<br />
Samantha David<br />
MY SUITE<br />
INN<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This city apartment<br />
hotel is a luxury<br />
residence combining<br />
character, a modern<br />
feel and design with<br />
a cosy atmosphere.<br />
From €61, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 157<br />
Munich<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €55.<br />
Buses leave for<br />
the centre every<br />
20 minutes. Tickets:<br />
€10 single; €16 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Mongo’s<br />
(28 Oberanger, tel: 089<br />
2322 5800) Choose<br />
your ingredients, then<br />
cook your own meal,<br />
Mongolian barbecuestyle.<br />
It’s also worth<br />
asking about the allyou-can<br />
eat specials.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Zauberberg (14<br />
Hedwigstrasse, tel: 089<br />
1899 9178) The food at<br />
this swish little modern<br />
European restaurant<br />
is invariably top notch.<br />
Choose as many<br />
courses as you wish<br />
from a limited, daily<br />
changing menu. Pay a<br />
little extra and you can<br />
enjoy matching wines<br />
for each dish.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Baal (26<br />
Kreittmayrstrasse, tel:<br />
089 1870 3836) Tucked<br />
down a back street of<br />
Munich’s Neuhausen<br />
district, this bar is styled<br />
like a cosy living room<br />
and has a very relaxed<br />
feel about it. Nibble<br />
tapas and sip wine amid<br />
bulging bookcases and<br />
comfy armchairs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Zum Jennerwein (27<br />
Belgradstrasse, tel: 089<br />
308 7221) This slightly<br />
insconspicuous bar is<br />
always heaving with<br />
partygoers grooving<br />
to the latest sounds.<br />
Although it’s cramped<br />
and sweaty, it’s still<br />
one of Munich’s<br />
cult nightspots.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Looking for<br />
an Easter treat with a<br />
difference? Head to<br />
Stolberg Schokolade<br />
– Munich’s chocolate<br />
boutique – for<br />
beautiful edible gifts<br />
from top chocolatiers<br />
(10 Ledererstrasse,<br />
Marienplatz).<br />
SEE It may not be on<br />
quite the same scale as<br />
the Oktoberfest, but the<br />
great beer festival’s little<br />
sister – the Frühlingsfest<br />
– still attracts its share<br />
of beer lovers. The<br />
event takes place on<br />
the Theresienwiese from<br />
17 April–3 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
One of the biggest<br />
attractions near<br />
Munich, Schloss<br />
Neuschwanstein, was<br />
the inspiration for the<br />
palace in Disney’s Magic<br />
Kingdom, as well as the<br />
location for the fi lming of<br />
Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.<br />
Jill Henne
158 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Murcia<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi to Murcia costs<br />
€45 and €35 Torrevieja.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Balastar (10 Plaza de<br />
los Apóstoles, tel: 968<br />
220 924) This Basque<br />
restaurant offers the<br />
dishes that have made<br />
the region’s cookery<br />
famous. The Biscay cod<br />
is delicious.<br />
EXCLUSIVE El<br />
Mesón de la Costa<br />
(23 Calle Ramon y<br />
Cajal, Torrevieja, tel:<br />
966 703 598) Generally<br />
accepted as one of the<br />
best restaurants in the<br />
region, the Mesón is a<br />
seafood lover’s dream.<br />
Just inside the entrance<br />
examples of the catchof-the-day<br />
are laid out in<br />
an iced showcase.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Los Soportales (6 Calle<br />
Azucaque) A tapas bar<br />
in the heart of the city,<br />
which serves a selection<br />
of snacks with an earlyevening<br />
coffee or aperitif.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Monroe’s Rock Cafe<br />
(71 Calle Caballero de<br />
Rodas, Torrevieja, tel:<br />
966 705 325) If you like<br />
it heavy, then Monroe’s<br />
is the place. The genial<br />
British owners will play<br />
pretty much anything on<br />
request – as long as the<br />
songs are hard and fast.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Torrevieja’s<br />
bustling Friday morning<br />
market is a good place to<br />
pick up some bargains<br />
and gifts to take home.<br />
GO The fi rst day of the<br />
fantastic SOS festival<br />
is 30 April. This year<br />
the 48-hour non-stop<br />
event is hosting Franz<br />
Ferdinand, Madness and<br />
Orbital (sos48.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The huge fl oats which<br />
are carried around the<br />
streets in the Easter<br />
processions were carved<br />
by Murcia’s famous son<br />
Francisco Salzillo, the<br />
18th-century sculptor.<br />
David Jones<br />
Mykonos<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €8.<br />
Catch the bus to<br />
Fabrika on the<br />
outskirts of Mykonos.<br />
Tickets: €1 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Galleraki<br />
Bar (Little Venice,<br />
Mykonos Town) The<br />
place to come for a<br />
mellow sunset aperitif,<br />
Galleraki is much-loved<br />
by moneyed Greeks.<br />
You’ll fi nd it by the<br />
water’s edge.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Scandinavian Bar<br />
(Ioannis Avenue, tel:<br />
2289 022 669) Here<br />
you’ll fi nd a street-level<br />
cocktail bar and a<br />
dancefl oor hosting<br />
guest DJs, which start<br />
late and fi nish even<br />
later. Cheap drinks and<br />
a young clientèle make<br />
this spot a crowded one.<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
HOTEL<br />
NELVA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Wander round the lush<br />
green gardens, relax<br />
on the sunny terrace<br />
or sample the cuisine<br />
at the Mediterranean<br />
restaurant. From<br />
€70, book at hotels.<br />
easyJet.com.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Alexis Snack Bar<br />
(Evagelistraki, Mykonos<br />
Town, tel: 2289 027<br />
494) An informal<br />
taverna serving local<br />
favourites such as fried<br />
squid, barbecued meats<br />
and Greek salads. Grab<br />
a spot on the terrace,<br />
with views of the sunset<br />
setting over the town.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Maison de Catherine<br />
(Gerasimou & Nikou,<br />
tel: 2289 022 169)<br />
On the go since 1971,<br />
this elegant candlelit<br />
restaurant serves<br />
exquisite Frenchinspired<br />
dishes such<br />
as souffl é and fi shy<br />
bouillabaisse, plus<br />
there’s local seafood<br />
including lobster. Oliver<br />
Stone and Sting have<br />
dined here, so you’ll be<br />
in good company.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Greeks celebrate<br />
Easter by indulging in<br />
a big feast on Easter<br />
Sunday. If you are going<br />
to prepare a big meal,<br />
buy a bottle of Mastiha<br />
liquor to aid digestion,<br />
it’s a local delicacy<br />
(Mastiha Shop, 11<br />
Kouzi Georgouli Street,<br />
tel: 2289 027 320,<br />
mastihashop.com).<br />
SEE Greek Orthodox<br />
Easter is celebrated on<br />
4 April this year. Good<br />
Friday sees a candlelit<br />
street procession,<br />
followed by fi reworks<br />
at midnight on the<br />
Saturday leading into<br />
Easter Sunday.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 1958, a wounded<br />
pelican was washed up<br />
on Mykonos. He was<br />
nursed back to health<br />
by a local fi sherman and<br />
has been the island’s<br />
mascot ever since.<br />
Jane Foster<br />
Nantes<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Tan bus runs<br />
to Nantes South<br />
train station and the city<br />
centre. Tickets: €7.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La Petite<br />
Epicerie (14 Rue du<br />
Chateau) This is one of<br />
the most intimate and<br />
romantic restaurants<br />
in the city. With good<br />
food, delicious wine and<br />
a fascinating tobacco<br />
store attached to the<br />
restaurant, it’s a great<br />
place to soak up culture.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Brasserie La Cigale<br />
(4 Place Graslin, tel: 02<br />
5184 9494) Dine on<br />
delicious food, at this<br />
local institution – the<br />
Michelin guide has<br />
given this restaurant<br />
a listing. It’s an<br />
architectural gem and<br />
boasts fresco ceilings<br />
and 18th-century<br />
French paintings<br />
within its opulent<br />
surrounds. Rounding<br />
off the exquisite French<br />
experience is a great<br />
seasonal menu and<br />
local Loire wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La<br />
Comédie des Vins<br />
(4 Rue Suffren, tel:<br />
02 4073 1168) This bar<br />
specialises in wines<br />
from near and far. If<br />
the weather is good<br />
enjoy your Burgundy<br />
on the terrace.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Hangar à Bananes<br />
(21 Quai des Antilles)<br />
The banana warehouse<br />
encompasses a range<br />
of bars, galleries, and a<br />
fantastic nightclub. The<br />
club has R’n’B, Europop,<br />
and electronic nights<br />
where you can dance<br />
until the sun comes up.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Le Marché de<br />
Talensac in Viarme is<br />
a traditional farmers’<br />
market, where you<br />
can stock up on local<br />
jams, wine, and crafts<br />
in the pleasant French<br />
atmosphere of this<br />
bustling bargain-hunters<br />
paradise. Open everyday<br />
except Monday.<br />
GO The Chateaux des<br />
Ducs de Bretagne, is<br />
close by the cathedral<br />
and medieval quarter.<br />
It’s an historic castle,<br />
palace, and public area<br />
combined in to one. You<br />
can enjoy the building,<br />
as well as boutiques and<br />
a museum.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
When a new wine is<br />
ready to be drunk, every<br />
bar in Nantes celebrates<br />
by placing a vine branch<br />
on its door.<br />
Victoria Poole
mykonos island - greece<br />
If you prefer a more private bijou location, Apanema Resort<br />
is a retreat from the island’s vibrant lifestyle. A very homely<br />
and casual place Apanema is a small hotel with just 17 rooms/<br />
suites offering an intimate, friendly and relaxed surrounding.<br />
It is located right on the waterfront with a dreaming<br />
sunset view of Delos island and the Aegean Sea, in the famous<br />
Tagoo area, which is right next to Mykonos town at<br />
barely 10 minutes walk from the centre of Mykonos Town.<br />
www.apanemaresort.com
Naples<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
The Alibus shuttle<br />
stops at the<br />
train station and Piazza<br />
Municipio. Tickets: €4. Or<br />
catch bus 3S to the train<br />
station. Tickets: €1.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Un Sorriso Integrale<br />
(6 Vico San Pietro<br />
a Majella, tel: 081 455<br />
026) Enjoy communal<br />
dining at this mellow<br />
venue, featuring<br />
Mediterranean-style<br />
vegetarian dishes to<br />
eat-in, as well as health<br />
food products to<br />
go, leaving you with<br />
plenty to snack on<br />
through the day.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Il Gallo<br />
Nero (466 Via Torquato<br />
Tasso, tel: 081 643 012)<br />
The elegant service,<br />
piano bar, and antique<br />
décor at this hilltop villa<br />
create a charmingly<br />
old-fashioned and<br />
romantic night out. The<br />
traditional Neapolitan<br />
fare is served with<br />
obvious pride.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Berevino<br />
(62 Via San<br />
Sebastiano, tel: 081<br />
290 313) This cosy<br />
wine bar offers a wide<br />
selection of fantastic<br />
regional wines with<br />
a tasty assortment<br />
of snacks to wash<br />
it all down.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kinky Bar (45 Via<br />
Cisterna Dell’Olio)<br />
Despite the potentially<br />
misleading name, this<br />
is Naples’ premier<br />
reggae nightclub, with<br />
no naughtiness going<br />
on whatsoever. Open<br />
9pm–3am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Since 1865, the<br />
Tramontano’s have<br />
created high quality<br />
leather goods from<br />
natural materials.<br />
Famous patrons have<br />
included Pavarotti,<br />
Woody Allen and Tom<br />
Cruise, and the fatherson<br />
duo will even<br />
create items to order<br />
(149E Via Chiaia, tel:<br />
081 414 758).<br />
SEE Comicon is<br />
Naples’ annual<br />
comic festival. This<br />
year, it runs from 30<br />
April–2 May, at Castel<br />
Sant’Elmo, 10am–8pm<br />
daily. You may not<br />
understand all the<br />
jokes, but the general<br />
joviality will keep you<br />
entranced (comicon.it).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Few hotels have a<br />
room number 17 in<br />
Naples, since it’s<br />
considered an unlucky<br />
number here.<br />
Tui Cameron<br />
Newcastle<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs £18.<br />
Buses depart<br />
from the airport<br />
entrance. Tickets: £1.90.<br />
The Metro goes<br />
to the city centre.<br />
Tickets: £2.70.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ask (The<br />
Gate, Newgate Street,<br />
tel: 0191 230 4530)<br />
An Italian restaurant<br />
that simply oozes class<br />
without any pretensions.<br />
There’s an impressive<br />
array of dishes in this<br />
modern venue.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Matfen Hall, Library<br />
Restaurant (Matfen,<br />
Northumberland,<br />
tel: 01661 886 500)<br />
Expect award-winning<br />
contemporary dishes<br />
here, in the sumptuous<br />
surroundings of a grand<br />
library overlooking a<br />
spectacular golf course.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Yates’ Wine<br />
Lodge (30 Grainger<br />
Street, tel: 0191 261<br />
5989) Yates’ guarantees<br />
one thing whatever time<br />
or day you go in – happy<br />
hour prices. You can<br />
party with the locals here<br />
or just fi nd a quiet corner<br />
and have a coffee.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Newcastle Carling<br />
Academy (Westgate<br />
Road, tel: 0191 260<br />
2020) This concert<br />
venue has played host<br />
to some of the country’s<br />
biggest music acts, such<br />
as the Arctic Monkeys<br />
and Kasabian, as well as<br />
running after-gig indie<br />
dance nights, too.<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Fashion and<br />
technology headline<br />
a new £100m<br />
development at Eldon<br />
Square shopping<br />
centre. Apple has<br />
opened a store in the St<br />
Andrew’s Way extension<br />
alongside US clothing<br />
brand Hollister (eldonsquare.co.uk).<br />
SEE Beatles to Bowie:<br />
The 1960s Exposed is<br />
an exhibition with 150<br />
photographs of stars<br />
who helped create<br />
the swinging 1960s.<br />
Music and fashion<br />
memorabilia of the<br />
time is also on display<br />
at Laing Art Gallery<br />
(New Bridge Street,<br />
twmuseums.org.uk).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Newcastle United is<br />
famous for its distinctive<br />
black and white striped<br />
shirts, but when originally<br />
formed as Newcastle<br />
East End in the 1800s<br />
the players wore red and<br />
white – the colour of arch<br />
rivals Sunderland.<br />
Michelle Ord<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 161<br />
Nice<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
Bus 98 stops at<br />
Nice’s Old Town<br />
and the Gare Routière.<br />
Bus 99 heads to the<br />
Gare SNCF. Tickets:<br />
€4 (valid on most Côte<br />
d’Azur buses).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Fenocchio (2 Place<br />
Rossetti, tel: 04 9380<br />
7252) Fifty-nine<br />
fl avours of ice cream<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Vinivore (32 Avenue<br />
de la République,<br />
tel: 04 9326 9017)<br />
Paradise for wine<br />
fans – take your pick<br />
from the bottles<br />
on display, most<br />
from little-known,<br />
local producers.<br />
and 35 sorbets:<br />
Fenocchio has an<br />
endless array for those<br />
who count ices as an<br />
essential food group.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
La Merenda (4 Rue<br />
Raoul Bosio) Squeeze<br />
into Nice’s diminutive<br />
but long-reigning<br />
favourite for a plate<br />
of springtime petits<br />
farcis – tiny, tasty<br />
stuffed vegetables.<br />
Drop by the restaurant<br />
to book your table.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Sapore (19 Rue<br />
Bonaparte, tel: 04<br />
9204 2209) Chef<br />
Anthony Riou serves<br />
up Mediterranean<br />
tapas, think tiny<br />
scampi kebabs or<br />
artichoke bruschetta,<br />
against the sleek<br />
backdrop of Sapore’s<br />
silver-chic steel décor.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Mère Germaine (Quai<br />
Courbet, Villefranchesur-Mer,<br />
tel: 04 9301<br />
7139) With views over<br />
exclusive Cap Ferrat,<br />
La Mère Germaine<br />
has been serving<br />
up both classic and<br />
creative seafood<br />
– think scallop<br />
carpaccio with truffl e<br />
oil, or shrimp tempura<br />
– since Germaine<br />
herself provided<br />
the US Navy with<br />
sustenance way back<br />
in the 1950s.<br />
Le Figuier de Saint<br />
Esprit (14 Rue Saint<br />
Esprit, Antibes, tel: 04<br />
9334 5012) Christian<br />
Morisset left his<br />
Michelin stars behind<br />
when he opened Le<br />
Figuier in 2007. But<br />
order his €55 prix fi xe
162 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Nice<br />
France<br />
menu on the fi g-shaded<br />
terrace and you can still<br />
taste perfection.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LIVE MUSIC Akathor<br />
(32 Cours Saleya,<br />
tel: 04 9362 4990)<br />
Enjoy alfresco acoustic<br />
guitar during happy<br />
hour (from 6pm). Live<br />
rock kicks off upstairs<br />
between 9–10pm.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Stars’N’Bars (6 Quai<br />
Antoine 1er, Monaco,<br />
tel: +377 9797 9595)<br />
This American-themed<br />
bar on Monaco’s port<br />
has been home to<br />
many a celebrity-fi lled<br />
party night since its<br />
inception more than<br />
15 years ago. See<br />
who you spot over a<br />
Champagne cocktail.<br />
Le Shadow Bar<br />
(14 Rue Benoît Bunico,<br />
tel: 04 9385 1468)<br />
A petite dancefl oor,<br />
killer cocktails and<br />
daily DJs make<br />
Shadow a buzzing<br />
weekend spot. Look for<br />
the discreet sign, then<br />
knock to get in.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP From elusive<br />
French cookbooks to<br />
ancient Italian recipes,<br />
Scripta Manent stocks<br />
top-notch gifts for the<br />
discerning food lover<br />
(Le Patio Palace, 41<br />
Avenue Hector Otto,<br />
Monaco, tel: +377 97 77<br />
03 93, scriptamanentmonaco.com).<br />
SHOP Pick up the<br />
season’s fi rst fresh<br />
goat’s cheese at<br />
Libération market.<br />
There’s not a tourist<br />
in sight. Closed<br />
on Monday (Place<br />
Général de Gaulle).<br />
SEE This year marks<br />
Nice’s 10th annual<br />
Short Film Festival<br />
(20–25 April). Winners<br />
of the 2009 event<br />
included quirky<br />
submissions from<br />
Denmark, Romania<br />
and the UK (Festival du<br />
Court Métrage, nicefi<br />
lmfest.com).<br />
GO The Promenade<br />
des Arts is Nice’s<br />
architectural<br />
wonderland. Wander<br />
past the Théâtre<br />
National, MAMAC<br />
art museum and<br />
municipal library,<br />
complete with Sasha<br />
Sosno’s giant tête au<br />
carré (square headshaped<br />
building).<br />
ESCAPE When<br />
Nice’s seafront gets<br />
too packed, head to<br />
the island of Île Sainte-<br />
Marguerite, a 15-minute<br />
ferry ride from Cannes.<br />
Cars are banned and<br />
beaches are bountiful<br />
(trans-cote-azur.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Villefranche-sur-Mer<br />
formed the backdrop<br />
for several classic<br />
movies, including Dirty<br />
Rotten Scoundrels,<br />
Ronin and Never Say<br />
Never Again.<br />
Kathryn Tomasetti<br />
Olbia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €15.<br />
The Linea Urbana<br />
bus goes to Olbia<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €0.60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Su<br />
Terrabinu (Porto<br />
Rotondo, Strada Rudalza,<br />
tel: 0789 32844) Rustic<br />
and Sardinian, here the<br />
menu is packed out with<br />
locally sourced, seasonal<br />
products from both the<br />
land and the sea.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Luna<br />
Lughente (Localita<br />
Pittulongu, tel: 0789<br />
57521) A sophisticated<br />
resort on Olbia’s bay<br />
offering panoramic<br />
views and delightful<br />
gardens to wander<br />
around – and even eat in<br />
– if the weather is nice.<br />
Enjoy fresh clams and<br />
mussels, followed by<br />
delicious desserts.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Lu Aldareddu (Lu<br />
Aldareddu, tel: 0789<br />
68579) Relax in<br />
a restored 18th-century<br />
farmhouse on a hill<br />
dotted with olive trees,<br />
while sipping slowly<br />
on an Italian wine. Lu<br />
Aldareddu is about<br />
10km north of Olbia.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Edone Cafe (224 Aldo<br />
Moro, tel: 0789 28650)<br />
Conveniently situated in<br />
the heart of the nightlife<br />
district, this revamped<br />
club hosts a tremendous<br />
show, especially at<br />
weekends, when famous<br />
Italian singers are<br />
known to make special<br />
guest appearances.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The beginning<br />
of April sees the orange<br />
take to the stage in<br />
festivals across the<br />
island. Celebrating<br />
the origins of orange<br />
cultivation in the region,<br />
head to the Golfo Aranci<br />
and go citrus crazy<br />
with all the fruit stores<br />
dotted around there (Via<br />
Libertà, Golfo Aranci).<br />
SEE Olbia’s very<br />
own Archaeological<br />
Museum is located<br />
right on the bay where<br />
Corso Umberto ends.<br />
It’s the one major<br />
museum in Olbia so, as<br />
a result, it showcases<br />
the major openings and<br />
concerts in town as well<br />
as its displays<br />
of ancient artifacts.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Many of Sardinia’s<br />
inhabitants live to be<br />
over 100 years old – this<br />
longevity phenomena is<br />
part of ongoing research<br />
at the CNR’s Molecular<br />
Genetics Institute.<br />
Christine Kessler<br />
Palermo<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €50.<br />
The Prestia e<br />
Comandé coach<br />
stops at all central<br />
stations. Tickets: €5.60<br />
The Trinacria<br />
Express goes<br />
to the central station.<br />
Tickets: €5.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Baciamo<br />
Le Mani (178 Corso<br />
Vittorio Emanuele,<br />
tel: 091 611 9781)<br />
ERICE<br />
ESCAPE Erice is<br />
a hilltop village with<br />
breathtaking views<br />
over land and sea.<br />
Enjoy the mouthwatering<br />
sweets<br />
at Maria Grammatico’s<br />
pastry shop on Via<br />
Vittorio Emanuele.<br />
Bordering the Kalsa<br />
district, this eatery is<br />
open all day, serving<br />
early-morning<br />
breakfasts, quick<br />
lunches and aperitifs<br />
accompanied by<br />
lounge music.<br />
UP TO €30 Hostaria<br />
Da Ciccio (6 Via<br />
Firenze, tel: 091 602<br />
3259) Not far from<br />
the central station, a<br />
good, hearty meal can<br />
be enjoyed here, be it<br />
a pasta dish such as<br />
spaghetti with fried<br />
broccoli, or a mixed<br />
platter of Palermitanstyle<br />
meats.<br />
UP TO €50 Cotto A<br />
Legna (104 Via Sciuti,<br />
tel: 091 625 9931)<br />
Legna means wood in<br />
Italian, and here all the<br />
cuisine is prepared in<br />
wood-burning ovens,<br />
and the variety from<br />
which to choose is<br />
endless – from pizzas<br />
to local Sicilian staples<br />
to delicacies arriving<br />
from the far corners of<br />
the globe. A wine cellar<br />
containing more than<br />
150 brands of wine<br />
and the convivial<br />
atmosphere guarantee<br />
a truly memorable<br />
experience for all.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Cin Cin<br />
(22 Via Manin, tel: 091<br />
612 4095) Centuriesold<br />
Sicilian fi sh dishes<br />
are prepared from<br />
recipes handed down<br />
from the cooks of<br />
aristocrats – and some<br />
Cajun-style cooking<br />
is thrown in for good<br />
measure, in honour<br />
of the Louisiana-born<br />
chef. Formidable wine<br />
list and impeccable<br />
service, too.
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Gianfl ò<br />
(129 Via E Amari) Just<br />
behind the Politeama,<br />
this is where the<br />
cognoscenti go for<br />
late-night coffee or<br />
a sweet snack. The<br />
club-goers often come<br />
here after dancing to<br />
enjoy a hot croissant<br />
and cappuccino.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Ai<br />
Candelai (65 Via dei<br />
Candela) In the heart of<br />
the student-bohemian<br />
area, cover bands<br />
and famous acts alike<br />
play at this music<br />
institution. Once a<br />
week however, you can<br />
dance the Argentine<br />
tango, or even take<br />
lessons if you’re<br />
a complete novice.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Berlin Café (21 Via<br />
Isidoro La Lumia, tel:<br />
091 584 897) A longstanding<br />
favourite and<br />
often crowded joint,<br />
the Berlin Café kicks<br />
off the evening with<br />
cocktails and ends<br />
with pumping DJ sets<br />
well into the early<br />
hours of the morning.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP SUD carries<br />
the line of Sicilian-<br />
American designer<br />
Joh Sarda, who<br />
brilliantly blends<br />
cutting-edge styles<br />
and traditional folklore<br />
in to his creations<br />
(148 Via G Pitre,<br />
johsarda.com).<br />
SEE The Genius of<br />
Leonardo da Vinci<br />
features prototypes<br />
of 70 machines that<br />
the Renaissance<br />
man designed – fully<br />
functioning and on<br />
a real-life scale. They<br />
demonstrate how the<br />
ideas and precision he<br />
conceived centuries<br />
ago are still used<br />
today. The exhibition<br />
runs till 15 April at<br />
The Sea Museum<br />
of Palermo (134 Via<br />
dell’Arsenale).<br />
GO One of the handful<br />
of places to have<br />
some respite from the<br />
city, the Foro Italico<br />
Umberto I is a long<br />
stretch of green space<br />
nestled between the<br />
sea and fabulous old<br />
palazzos. Come here<br />
for a picnic, a jog,<br />
or just go for a long<br />
walk along the coast.<br />
There’s playspace<br />
for dogs, too: parts<br />
of the park are<br />
designated for dogs to<br />
mingle and exercise.<br />
ESCAPE Mothia is<br />
the lagoon island and<br />
natural oasis that<br />
once belonged to the<br />
Marsala wine-moguls<br />
Whitakers. It is dense<br />
with Carthaginian<br />
history and artifacts,<br />
giving the visitor a<br />
glimpse of what daily<br />
life was like for this<br />
population. Boats<br />
awaiting to take you<br />
there can be caught<br />
at several jetties<br />
in Marsala.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Given that Palermo<br />
faces east, the<br />
north-westerly Aeolian<br />
islands stretching as<br />
far as Salina can be<br />
seen from any high<br />
elevation in the city<br />
on a clear day.<br />
Conchita Vecchio<br />
Paris<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
ORLY<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
The Orly bus<br />
stops at Place<br />
Denfert-Rochereau.<br />
Tickets: €6.40.<br />
The RER B4<br />
travels from<br />
Orly to Châtelet. Trains<br />
run from 6am–11pm.<br />
Tickets: €9.85. The<br />
C2 line takes you to<br />
Invalides. Tickets: €7.60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
ROISSY-CHARLES<br />
DE GAULLE<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €45.<br />
The Roissy Bus<br />
stops at Opéra.<br />
Tickets: €9.10.<br />
Take the RER B3<br />
to Gare du Nord.<br />
Tickets: €8.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Le Baron Rouge<br />
(1 Rue Théophile<br />
Roussel, tel: 01 4343<br />
1432) Just off the<br />
Place d’Aligre, this<br />
traditional wine<br />
bar welcomes the<br />
shoppers and stall<br />
holders of the nearby<br />
Marché d’Aligre,<br />
especially on Sunday<br />
afternoons when<br />
the friendly crowd<br />
spills out onto the<br />
pavement with glasses<br />
of wine and platters of<br />
charcuterie in hand.<br />
UP TO €30 Little<br />
Italy Caffé (92 Rue<br />
Montorgueil, tel: 01<br />
4236 3625) They don’t<br />
take reservations at<br />
this low-key Italian<br />
trattoria on the<br />
bustling Montorgueil<br />
pedestrian street, so<br />
get there early to line<br />
up on the wooden<br />
benches, elbow to<br />
elbow, for authentic<br />
Italian dishes. Save<br />
room for dessert.<br />
UP TO €50 Kok Ping<br />
(4 Rue de Balzac,<br />
tel: 01 4225 2885)<br />
A chic, yet reasonablypriced<br />
Thai restaurant<br />
just off the Champs-<br />
Elysées, specialising<br />
in fi sh dishes, with<br />
many vegetarian<br />
options. The clientèle<br />
are a mix of wellheeled<br />
locals and<br />
those lucky enough<br />
to fi nd the virtually<br />
hidden entrance.<br />
Chez Vong (10<br />
Rue de la Grande-<br />
Truanderie, 1st, tel: 01<br />
4026 0936) Tucked<br />
down a pedestrian<br />
sidestreet near Les<br />
Halles, this intimate<br />
restaurant decorated<br />
with Buddha statues<br />
is one of the city’s<br />
top locations for<br />
Cantonese and<br />
Vietnamese cuisine.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 163<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Laurent (41 Avenue<br />
Gabriel, tel: 01<br />
4225 0039) Dine<br />
on contemporary<br />
French cuisine in an<br />
historic 18th-century<br />
hunting lodge nestled<br />
in the gardens of the<br />
Champs Elysées. The<br />
peach and cream<br />
exterior with its<br />
majestic columns<br />
houses a classically<br />
decorated dining room<br />
in pale tones with large<br />
windows for enjoying<br />
the spring blossoms.<br />
Dishes include spider<br />
crab in jellied juices,<br />
or crispy langoustines<br />
and basil.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La<br />
Conserverie (37 bis<br />
Rue du Sentier, tel: 01<br />
4026 1494) There’s<br />
nothing else open<br />
after dark on this<br />
long street between<br />
the busy Grands<br />
Boulevards and the<br />
trendy Montorgueil<br />
district, but this<br />
COURCELLES<br />
ETOILE HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
You’re sure to have a<br />
kitsch and colourful<br />
stay at this hotel with<br />
individual touches and<br />
unusual details, just off<br />
the Champs Elysées.<br />
From €88, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
unique Parisian bar<br />
is worth the trek.<br />
Mismatched sofas and<br />
armchairs mix cosily in<br />
the retro-industrial loft<br />
space, and the creative<br />
cocktails and gourmet<br />
bar food such as foie<br />
gras make it easy to<br />
relax and enjoy a bit<br />
of pampering before a<br />
night out on the town.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Le<br />
Scopitone (5 Avenue<br />
Opera, tel: 01 4260<br />
6445) Former club Le<br />
Paris Paris has been<br />
given a facelift and a<br />
new name, and is now<br />
dedicated to live music<br />
bands, mostly indie,<br />
rock, electro and pop,<br />
from around the world.<br />
Entry is no longer free,<br />
but costs less than<br />
a pint if you buy your<br />
tickets in advance.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Baron (8 Avenue<br />
Marceau, 8th) In<br />
a former hostess bar,<br />
Le Baron is one of the<br />
most exclusive lounge<br />
bars in Paris, where<br />
the young jetset<br />
dance to live DJs on<br />
a tiny dancefl oor.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP One of the<br />
best-kept secrets of<br />
Paris is the whimsical<br />
Aurore-Capucine,<br />
a pastry shop in<br />
a relatively un-chic<br />
part of town with<br />
a loyal following for<br />
its old-fashioned violet<br />
macarons, lavender<br />
cookies, and rosepetal<br />
cakes (3 Rue<br />
de Rochechouart,<br />
tel: 01 4878 1620).<br />
SEE The opening day<br />
for the annual Foire
164 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Paris<br />
France<br />
du Trone is 3 April, the<br />
funfair dating back to<br />
the 12th-century on<br />
the edge of the Bois<br />
de Vincennes opens<br />
up for spring. Carnival<br />
rides, regional food<br />
stands, and games to<br />
win prizes. Open daily<br />
from noon through<br />
midnight until June.<br />
(Pélouse de Reuilly,<br />
foiredutrone.com).<br />
GO Oberkampf<br />
is an area of east<br />
Paris, known for its<br />
lively nightlife, artist<br />
studios, multi-ethnic<br />
food stands, and<br />
edgy street fashion<br />
boutiques. Most of<br />
the after-dark<br />
action can be found<br />
between the Metro<br />
Ménilmontant and<br />
the Metro Parmentier,<br />
along Rue Oberkampf,<br />
Rue JP Timbaud, and<br />
Rue Moret.<br />
GO The Fifth<br />
Arrondissement, along<br />
the Seine, features the<br />
scenic gardens of the<br />
Jardin des Plantes,<br />
panoramic views from<br />
the rooftop terrace of<br />
the Institut du Monde<br />
Arabe, and dancing<br />
under the stars every<br />
night on the Square<br />
Tino Rossi.<br />
ESCAPE A day-trip<br />
to Versailles isn’t<br />
just about the Sun<br />
King’s chateau. The<br />
town is also known<br />
for the Quartier Notre-<br />
Dame’s many antique<br />
and crafts shops<br />
(around the Passage<br />
de la Geôle) and<br />
the historic outdoor<br />
market, Marché Notre-<br />
Dame (the best day<br />
to go is Friday<br />
morning). This<br />
indulgent shopping<br />
trip is just 20 minutes<br />
from the Gare St-<br />
Lazare. Call ahead and<br />
the Versailles tourist<br />
offi ce can help you<br />
plan your trip to<br />
make the most<br />
of the day (tel: 01<br />
3924 8888).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Public toilets in<br />
Paris are not only free,<br />
they’ve also been<br />
completely redesigned<br />
recently by a famous<br />
Parisian architect to<br />
be sleek, completely<br />
automated, and<br />
wheelchair accessible<br />
– take a visit.<br />
Heather Stimmler-Hall<br />
LATE &<br />
LIVELY<br />
Prescription<br />
Cocktail Club (23 Rue<br />
Mazarine) The city’s<br />
newest 1930s-style<br />
speakeasy bar has no<br />
sign on the door, just a<br />
serious doorman who<br />
will make sure you’re<br />
stylishly dressed.<br />
Pisa<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €7.<br />
CPT buses go<br />
to the centre.<br />
Route 3 stops at Pisa<br />
Central. Tickets: €0.77<br />
(at the airport).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Osteria<br />
del Tinti (27 Vicolo<br />
del Tinti, tel: 050<br />
580 240) This simple<br />
and unassuming<br />
osteria celebrates<br />
typical Tuscan cuisine<br />
in style. Enjoy your<br />
meal at an outdoor<br />
table in this narrow<br />
side street in<br />
Borgo Stretto.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Cyrano di Bergerac<br />
(Via di Gagno) Owner<br />
Massimiliano Zubboli<br />
dreamt of opening<br />
a restaurant on the<br />
street where he lived as<br />
a child. The result is an<br />
original menu offering<br />
daring nouvelle, healthy<br />
vegetarian and hearty<br />
traditional Pisan<br />
cuisine. Massimiliano<br />
must be one<br />
happy owner!<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caffè<br />
Giordano (2 Via<br />
Francesco Crispi,<br />
tel: 050 27112)<br />
After a busy day<br />
sightseeing, relax in<br />
this comfortable café<br />
and sip a glass of<br />
chilled prosecco.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Lo<br />
Spaventapasseri (10<br />
Via La Nunziatina, tel:<br />
050 44067) Small<br />
and a little crowded,<br />
but with international<br />
beers on tap and fi lling<br />
up the fridges, there’s<br />
no holding back the<br />
young locals here.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you love<br />
shopping, head for<br />
Borgo Stretto where<br />
you’ll fi nd the best<br />
shops in fashion and<br />
accessories.<br />
SEE American dance<br />
company Momix will<br />
be staging Sun Flower<br />
Moon from 28–30 April<br />
at Teatro Verdi. Dancers<br />
and acrobats will be<br />
dancing in the dark in<br />
fl uorescent costumes<br />
to the music of the<br />
Zen Trance Buddha<br />
Experience, with<br />
projected images<br />
(Via Palestro,<br />
teatrodipisa.pi.it).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A new mural will<br />
be painted in Pisa<br />
in tribute to Keith<br />
Haring, the celebrated<br />
graffi ti artist who,<br />
in 1989, painted<br />
Tuttomondo, a 180m 2<br />
mural celebrating the<br />
brotherhood of man<br />
and world peace.<br />
Silvia Falsaperla<br />
Porto<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Metro trains take<br />
you to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.40 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Vinhas<br />
D’Alho (139–140 Muro<br />
dos Bacalhoeiros, tel:<br />
22 201 2874) Traditional<br />
Portuguese offerings<br />
but with a modern fl air<br />
in this beautiful location<br />
on the Porto side of<br />
the river. Explore the<br />
region’s great variety<br />
of wines, which come<br />
by the glass.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Kool<br />
Restaurante (604–610<br />
Avenida da Boavista, tel:<br />
22 609 2876) Set within<br />
the Casa de Música,<br />
this cosmopolitan<br />
establishment offers<br />
eclectic creations from<br />
chef Augusto Gemelli,<br />
with a strong Italian<br />
infl uence. Reservations<br />
recommended.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Progresso Porto (5<br />
Rua Actor João Guedes,<br />
tel: 22 332 2647) This<br />
place opened in 1899,<br />
making it one of the<br />
oldest cafés in the city,<br />
although you would<br />
never know from the<br />
hip décor. Try the strong<br />
Portuguese coffee and<br />
homemade ice cream.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Rock’s Bar (288 Rua<br />
Rei Ramiro, Gaia, tel: 22<br />
627 1124) With beautiful<br />
views of the river, this<br />
bar, housed among the<br />
traditional port wine<br />
cellars offers live salsa<br />
and cha-cha dance<br />
music. Watch aweinspired<br />
and then give<br />
the steps a try, too.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Solar do Vinho<br />
Porto is the place to go<br />
for Port wine tasting.<br />
Many wines are available<br />
for sale, as well as<br />
glassware and literature.<br />
Enjoy the beautiful view<br />
overlooking the river<br />
while sampling (220<br />
Rua Entre Quintas, tel:<br />
22 609 4749).<br />
SEE The Coliseu do<br />
Porto, a beautiful art<br />
deco concert hall<br />
presents a wide range<br />
of performances in April<br />
including musicals,<br />
magic shows, pop<br />
music and much more<br />
(137 Passos Manuel,<br />
coliseudoporto.pt).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Port wine was invented<br />
by the English.<br />
Merchants found that<br />
their Douro wine was<br />
turning into vinegar<br />
during the long voyage<br />
north, so they added<br />
sugar and Port was born.<br />
Joseph Guerra
TAKE A<br />
WINTER BREAK,<br />
BRIGHTON<br />
STYLE!<br />
Looking for the perfect<br />
city break? Brighton is<br />
ideal all year round<br />
BEST VALUE<br />
IN PARIS<br />
The Hotel Taylor will delight<br />
both you and your wallet<br />
Book by visiting www.novotel.com/EJPARIS<br />
or by calling 0825 88 44 44 (0,15€/min)<br />
and mention EJPARIS<br />
Valid offer until 04/30/<strong>2010</strong><br />
NOVOTEL PARIS EST / PARIS GARE DE LYON<br />
PARIS LA DÉFENSE / PARIS LES HALLES<br />
PARIS PONT DE SEVRES / PARIS TOUR EIFFEL<br />
PARIS VAUGIRARD.<br />
Designed for natural living<br />
SPECIAL<br />
OFFER<br />
Present this advert and<br />
you will recieve a gift at<br />
the reception of Hotel<br />
Taylor. Valid until<br />
1st May <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
ON THE RIGHT BANK, in a peaceful,<br />
secluded position on a quiet one-way street<br />
just outside the bustling centre of Paris and<br />
within walking distance of Notre Dame, the<br />
family-run boutique Hotel Taylor is the<br />
perfect base from which to enjoy a romantic<br />
break in the City of Light. Just a short walk<br />
from the lively Marais district and close to<br />
major department stores, the Place des<br />
Vosges, Bastille and Canal Saint Martin, the<br />
hotel’s location is unbeatable.<br />
With a charming and cosy ambience as<br />
well as 37 newly refurbished, sound-proofed<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
guestrooms and modern, romantic interiors,<br />
you’ll be tempted to stay in, as well as to go<br />
out. Hotel amenities include free WiFi, a<br />
fl at-screen TV in every bedroom and a<br />
sumptuous buffet breakfast. And the hotel’s<br />
attentive and experienced staff are always on<br />
hand to help with restaurant suggestions,<br />
taxi bookings and more.<br />
Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is<br />
outstanding value for money – with single<br />
rooms from just €80 and doubles from €91,<br />
it is the hotel of choice for savvy travellers.<br />
Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010 Paris,<br />
tel: +33 (0)1 4240 1101<br />
Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com<br />
paristaylorhotel.com<br />
Restaurant Au Coin des Gourmets<br />
Near Place Vendome<br />
38 Rue du Mont Thabor<br />
75001 Paris<br />
01 42 60 79 79<br />
Near Notre Dame<br />
5 Rue Dante<br />
75005 Paris<br />
01 43 26 12 92<br />
“...Well-executed, home-cooked dishes from<br />
Cambodia and Vietnam…” Zagat <strong>2010</strong><br />
“…the vietnamese ravioli may be the best<br />
in town…” Where magazine<br />
Bring along a copy of the magazine and<br />
receive a free glass of champagne!
166 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Prague<br />
Czech Republic<br />
DIALLING CODE +420<br />
CURRENCY CZK<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your<br />
taxi at easyJet.<br />
com. A private Cedaz<br />
van takes you to the city<br />
for CZK90 per person.<br />
Catch bus 119 to<br />
Dejvicka then take<br />
the A metro line to the<br />
centre. Tickets: CZK26.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Bakeshop<br />
(1 Kozi, tel: 222 316<br />
823) The boxed Nicoise<br />
salad is a perfectly<br />
healthy to-go choice,<br />
but Bakeshop’s heady<br />
bakery aroma won’t<br />
allow those pies and<br />
cakes to go ignored.<br />
UP TO €30 Lokal<br />
(33 Dlouha, tel: 222<br />
316 265) Not a single<br />
foreign item, not<br />
even world-renowned<br />
Coca-Cola, has invaded<br />
the menu at hyped-up<br />
Lokal, where rustic<br />
Czech grub meets<br />
big-city décor.<br />
UP TO €50 La<br />
Finestra (13<br />
Platnerska, tel: 222<br />
325 325) A relatively<br />
new addition to<br />
Prague’s dining scene,<br />
La Finestra’s attentive<br />
service and selection<br />
of seasonal dishes<br />
and top-quality<br />
cuts of meat have<br />
made this Italian<br />
restaurant an instant<br />
hit with the locals.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Terroir (1 Vejvodova,<br />
tel: 222 220 260)<br />
Boasting an extensive<br />
wine cellar and a variety<br />
of luxurious tasting<br />
menu options, this<br />
elegant French cellar<br />
restaurant even proudly<br />
displays the terroir<br />
(earth) from which<br />
several of the wines on<br />
offer were produced.<br />
Kampa Park (8B<br />
Na Kampe, tel: 257<br />
532 685) Arguably<br />
Prague’s most elegant<br />
restaurant, Kampa Park<br />
boasts an enviable view<br />
of the Charles Bridge.<br />
Dishes such as foie gras<br />
with pear tatin, halibut<br />
with creamed potatoes,<br />
black truffl e and<br />
crispy bacon, and dark<br />
chocolate fondant with<br />
cardamom ice cream<br />
will have you wanting to<br />
come back for more.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Na Vysehrade<br />
(K Rotunde) Hang<br />
with the locals and get<br />
involved in a game of<br />
foosball at this beer<br />
garden within the<br />
historic Vysehrad park.<br />
Weather permitting, it’s<br />
a lovely place to chill<br />
out with a Pilsner.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Ungelt<br />
Jazz & Blues Club<br />
(2 Tyn, tel: 224 895<br />
748) Located in a<br />
typical Prague cellar<br />
space, this two-fl oor<br />
club hosts nightly<br />
concerts of jazz, blues,<br />
rock, funk, and fusion<br />
bands from the Czech<br />
Republic and beyond.<br />
LATE & LIVELY N11<br />
(11 Národní, tel: 222<br />
075 109) Stylish young<br />
Czechs and visitors<br />
alike fi ll the network<br />
of vaulted rooms in<br />
this underground club,<br />
where house and hip<br />
hop are the genres<br />
of choice on the<br />
pumping dancefl oor.<br />
Duplex (21 Vaclavske<br />
Namesti, tel: 224<br />
232 319) Very central<br />
(Wenceslas Square)<br />
and very late (5am), this<br />
massive club is where<br />
Mick Jagger celebrated<br />
his 60th birthday, so<br />
you’re sure to be in<br />
good company here.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Channel<br />
your inner boho at<br />
Globe Books where<br />
Prague’s international<br />
community converges<br />
to peruse the<br />
extensive selection<br />
of English language<br />
books and publications<br />
on offer (6 Pstrossova,<br />
tel: 224 934 203).<br />
SHOP Fan of art<br />
nouveau and exquisite<br />
jewellery? Stop by Art<br />
Décoratif, where you<br />
can fi nd beautiful pieces<br />
designed by Alphonse<br />
Mucha’s granddaughter,<br />
who recreates the<br />
acclaimed artist’s<br />
designs from the turn of<br />
the 20th century<br />
(5 Melantrichova).<br />
SEE Be Free! is a<br />
new exhibition at the<br />
National Museum<br />
which traces the fl ow<br />
of information within<br />
the era of communism<br />
in Czechoslovakia.<br />
You can even check<br />
out a reconstructed<br />
intellectual’s café<br />
within the exhibit (68<br />
Václavské námestí, tel:<br />
224 497 111, nm.cz).<br />
GO If the castle and<br />
beer gardens aren’t<br />
enough to draw you to<br />
Vysehrad, stop by the<br />
quarter’s cemetery<br />
where several renowned<br />
Czechs are buried<br />
including composers<br />
Dvorak and Smetana.<br />
ESCAPE The 18thcentury<br />
fortress town<br />
of Terezin (60km<br />
north of Prague) is a<br />
popular destination<br />
with history buffs – in<br />
World War II the Nazis<br />
transformed it into<br />
a Jewish ghetto. Today,<br />
it is teeming with<br />
musuems, historic<br />
landmarks and in<br />
general just has<br />
a lovely, country<br />
feel about it.<br />
Dana Dramowicz/<br />
prague-life.com<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
NO<br />
WAY!<br />
Don’t brush off<br />
the Prague Zoo for<br />
its small size. Its<br />
intimacy is said to<br />
have contributed<br />
to its impressive<br />
spot within the<br />
top 15 zoos in<br />
the world!<br />
<br />
Rhodes<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi to Rhodes costs<br />
€20, Ixia and Ialysos €18,<br />
Faliraki €20, Lindos €50.<br />
Regular buses go<br />
to Rhodes, Ixia and<br />
Ialysos. Tickets: €2.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Chicken<br />
Stories (18 Iroon<br />
Polytexneiou Street)<br />
With dozens of burgers,<br />
sandwiches and menus<br />
based on chicken, this<br />
restaurant promises<br />
instant favourites and<br />
devoted fans.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Hatzikelis Restaurant<br />
(9 Alhadef Street, tel:<br />
22410 27215) Hatzikelis<br />
is one of the most<br />
famous venues in<br />
Rhodes. Located inside<br />
a Medieval Town Park,<br />
and surrounded by high<br />
walls and swaying trees,<br />
its Greek cuisine is<br />
entrusted by locals and<br />
tourists alike.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Playcafe<br />
(21 Ionos Dragoumi<br />
Street) Playcafe is a<br />
fresh café specialising<br />
in providing its guests<br />
with plenty of cool<br />
board games to while<br />
the hours away with.<br />
Its joyful ambience and<br />
walls piled high with<br />
games, guarantees<br />
many hours of fun.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Soho<br />
(Ippokratous Square,<br />
Medieval Town) In a<br />
central location, Soho<br />
is the meeting point for<br />
everyone and anyone<br />
who fancies a late-night<br />
drink and boogie to<br />
mainstream sounds.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Labyrinthos<br />
Gallery sells a selection<br />
of original artwork and<br />
handmade furniture<br />
from local artists. You’ll<br />
also fi nd an array of<br />
original medieval crests<br />
and manuscripts<br />
(1 Theofi liskou Street,<br />
tel: 22410 39902).<br />
SEE The Fourth Rhodes<br />
International Piano<br />
Competition will take<br />
place from 6–13 April.<br />
Young pianists from<br />
more than 20 countries<br />
will gather to compete<br />
for the prestigious<br />
laurette, while side<br />
events and concerts will<br />
be open to the audience<br />
(arteconanima.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The picturesque<br />
landscape of Rhodes<br />
is worth a pretty penny.<br />
Last year, a Joseph<br />
Mallord William Turner<br />
R.A watercolour of<br />
the view sold at<br />
Sotheby’s for a massive<br />
$140,000 (€103,000).<br />
Michael G. Kavuklis/<br />
rhodes.com.gr
Located on the Greek island of<br />
Rhodes, an ideal location for family<br />
holidays as well as a perfect setting<br />
for a relaxing escape, Sheraton<br />
Rhodes Resort welcomes guests with<br />
gracious Mediterranean hospitality.<br />
Valid from 1st June to 31st July.<br />
180€ in Deluxe Sea View room Bed<br />
and Breakfast Basis<br />
205€<br />
Summer<br />
Holidays are<br />
Better when<br />
Shared<br />
in Deluxe Sea View room Half<br />
Board Basis<br />
Book at Sheraton.com/Rhodes<br />
or call +30 22410 75000<br />
©2009 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All rights reserved. Sheraton and its logo are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.
168 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Rome<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
CIAMPINO<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
Terravision buses<br />
leave 30 minutes<br />
after your fl ight lands.<br />
Tickets: €4 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
FIUMICINO<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your<br />
taxi at easyJet.<br />
com. A local taxi costs<br />
€40 in a City of Rome<br />
licensed cab and €60 in<br />
a Fiumicino municipality<br />
licensed cab.<br />
Terravision buses<br />
to Termini depart<br />
30 minutes after your<br />
fl ight lands. Tickets: €7<br />
The Leonardo<br />
Express leaves<br />
for Termini till 11.30pm.<br />
Tickets: €11.<br />
Metropolitan FM1 trains<br />
go to Roma Tiburtina<br />
until 11.27pm. Tickets:<br />
€5.50 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 L’Osteria<br />
della Suburra (69 Via<br />
Urbana, tel: 06 486<br />
531) A small, relaxed<br />
and very friendly<br />
restaurant near Via<br />
Nazionale offering<br />
delicious fresh pasta.<br />
Opt for the wonderful<br />
wild boar pasta and<br />
then fi nish off with<br />
a perfect creamy,<br />
chocolatey tiramisu.<br />
UP TO €30 Sahara<br />
(43 Viale Ippocrate,<br />
tel: 06 4424 2583) In<br />
this north Africanthemed<br />
restaurant,<br />
you can eat at a table<br />
if you like or if you<br />
prefer you can sit on<br />
the fl oor and imagine<br />
that you’ve been<br />
transported to the<br />
Moroccan desert.<br />
Great couscous,<br />
falafel and sambussa<br />
(Ethiopian-style<br />
samosas), plus very<br />
friendly service.<br />
UP TO €50 Osteria<br />
del Pegno (8 Vicolo<br />
di Montevecchio,<br />
tel: 06 6880 7025)<br />
A sumptuous<br />
restaurant replete<br />
with chandeliers,<br />
tucked away in a tiny<br />
alley. They serve their<br />
own delicious fresh<br />
breads, and for your<br />
primi (fi rst course)<br />
you could do worse<br />
than the giant ravioli<br />
fi lled with ricotta,<br />
spinach and covered in<br />
orange sauce. Then for<br />
secondi (mains) either<br />
the grilled fi sh or<br />
meat will defi nitely<br />
not disappoint.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Open<br />
Colonna (Via Milano,<br />
tel: 06 4782 2641)<br />
In the evenings the<br />
restaurant at the<br />
refurbished Palazzo<br />
delle Espozioni turns<br />
gourmet under<br />
the supervision<br />
of internationally<br />
renowned chef<br />
Antonello Colonna<br />
who serves traditional<br />
Roman fare with<br />
a creative twist.<br />
Go for the delicious<br />
negativo di carbonara<br />
(ravioli stuffed with<br />
carbonara on a crème<br />
of parmiggiano), or<br />
the crispy suckling<br />
pig accompanied<br />
with unbeatable but<br />
unusual mustard<br />
smoked potatoes.<br />
Brunello (72 Via<br />
Veneto, tel: 06 4890<br />
2867) Highly refi ned<br />
décor combined with<br />
friendly, attentive<br />
service helps mark<br />
this out from some<br />
of the more typical<br />
tourist joints of the<br />
Via Veneto. Chef<br />
Daniele Sera produces<br />
an array of wonderful<br />
dishes, from ravioli<br />
stuffed with tomato<br />
and mozzarella sauce<br />
to fried cod with<br />
parmiggiano and<br />
anchovy fondue.<br />
UP TO<br />
€50<br />
Gusto (9 Piazza<br />
Augusto Imperatore,<br />
tel: 06 322 6273) A<br />
buzzing venue near<br />
the Tiber, serving<br />
about 1,600 wines.<br />
Try the simple<br />
spaghetti with<br />
buffalo mozzarella.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Ombre<br />
Rosse (12 Piazza S<br />
Egidio, tel: 06 588<br />
4155) In the heart<br />
of the Trastevere<br />
district, next to the<br />
sadly defunct Englishlanguage<br />
cinema, you<br />
can sit outside under<br />
the shade of a fi g tree,<br />
or in the cosy interior.<br />
A café by day, it turns<br />
into a bar at night with<br />
an extensive cocktail<br />
and wine list.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Charity Café (68<br />
Via Pansperna, tel:<br />
06 4782 5881) This<br />
comfortable club<br />
hosts energetic<br />
live jazz Thursday–<br />
Saturday evenings,<br />
and plays soothing<br />
jazz records every<br />
other night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
BarBar (17 Via Ovidio,<br />
tel: 06 6830 8435)<br />
The site of the old<br />
Follia disco is now<br />
a modern, relaxed,<br />
minimalist sort of<br />
cocktail lounge open<br />
till the early hours<br />
with coffee, wine<br />
and cocktails served,<br />
and even a cigar<br />
room for the smokers<br />
of the party.<br />
Alpheus (36 Viale<br />
del Commercio, tel:<br />
06 574 7826) An<br />
enormous club where<br />
you can sample a range<br />
of musical genres, with<br />
house on the main<br />
dancefl oor and techno,<br />
hip hop, rock, world<br />
music, Latin, retro,<br />
happy trash and R’n’B<br />
going on elsewhere.<br />
There’s bound to be<br />
something to entertain.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Sartoria<br />
Scale Quattordici<br />
clothes shop is largely<br />
supplied by goods<br />
from the adjoining<br />
workshop, which<br />
uses gorgeous fabrics<br />
to produce Orientalinspired<br />
designs.<br />
Head down and get<br />
some unique items<br />
at great prices (14<br />
Via della Scala, tel:<br />
06 588 3580).<br />
SHOP RoseDany<br />
Jeans Store is a tiny,<br />
family-owned clothes<br />
shop specialising in<br />
jeans and jackets,<br />
on the edge of<br />
Campo dei Fiori (128<br />
Via dei Baullari, tel:<br />
06 686 4912).<br />
SEE Caravaggio is<br />
an exhibition held<br />
at the former stables<br />
of the presidential<br />
palace to mark the<br />
400th anniversary<br />
of Michelangelo<br />
Merisi da Carvaggio’s<br />
death, a famous<br />
Italian baroque-style<br />
artist (Scuderie del<br />
Quirinale, 16 Via<br />
XXIV Maggio, tel:<br />
06 399 6750).<br />
GO Ambling through<br />
the side streets just<br />
off Via Nazionale you’ll<br />
fi nd a maze of beautiful<br />
sloping streets with<br />
all sorts of bars,<br />
restaurants, specialist<br />
shops and even an Irish<br />
pub with live sport. Via<br />
dei Serpenti lies at<br />
the heart of this district<br />
and boasts among<br />
other things, one<br />
of the city’s oldest<br />
Indian restaurants<br />
– the fabulous<br />
Ristorante Maharajah.<br />
ESCAPE Monti<br />
Simbruini is the<br />
largest park in Lazio<br />
and it’s just an hour<br />
away from Rome by<br />
car or public transport.<br />
A must for walkers<br />
and sightseers, its<br />
seven historic towns<br />
and mountain villages<br />
are medieval citadels<br />
clinging to rocky<br />
outcrops and with<br />
just a few hundred<br />
inhabitants each. Don’t<br />
forget your camera,<br />
the towns offer<br />
perfect photographic<br />
opportunities.<br />
ESCAPE Sabina is<br />
about 55 kilometres<br />
north of Rome and<br />
boasts some of the<br />
prettiest landscape<br />
in the Lazio region.<br />
It’s also home to<br />
the vast medieval<br />
monastery at Farfa,<br />
which at one time<br />
rivalled the Vatican<br />
as the centre of<br />
Christianity.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
If you have heard<br />
of a Roman nose,<br />
you may wonder<br />
what locals mean<br />
by a nasone or<br />
big nose. Far from<br />
being an insult,<br />
nasone in common<br />
dialect merely<br />
refers to the water<br />
fountains dotted<br />
throughout the city,<br />
where you can<br />
quench your thirst<br />
with Rome’s delicious<br />
clean waters and at<br />
the same time save<br />
“paying through<br />
the nose” for<br />
bottled water!<br />
Alan Goldwater
Salzburg<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €15.<br />
Trains run to the<br />
Hauptbahnhof<br />
station. Tickets: €9.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Maredo (5<br />
Judengasse, tel: 0662<br />
843 894) Enjoy a salad<br />
and some delicious<br />
meat in this steakhouse.<br />
Fish and poultry dishes<br />
are available, too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Riedenburg (31<br />
Neutorstrasse, tel:<br />
0662 830 815) The chef<br />
at the helm, Richard<br />
Brunnauer, has been<br />
awarded a Michelin<br />
star for good reason:<br />
indulge in his culinary<br />
creations, which are a<br />
mix of traditional and<br />
international cuisine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Afro Coffee<br />
(5 Buergerspitalplatz,<br />
tel: 0662 844 888)<br />
The colourful, ethnic<br />
interior of this café is<br />
ideal for relaxing in:<br />
order any of the coffee<br />
or tea specialities.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Intermezzo (11A<br />
Paracelsusstrasse,<br />
tel: 0662 877 629)<br />
Somewhere between<br />
a club, a disco and a<br />
restaurant, this place<br />
has it all: a lounge area<br />
and great dancing vibes.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Get your Easter<br />
tidbits at the Fürst<br />
confectionery, the only<br />
place you can buy the<br />
original Mozartkugeln<br />
– the famous pralines<br />
of nougat and marzipan<br />
(13 Alter Markt).<br />
GO Mülln is Salzburg’s<br />
smallest quarter. Way<br />
back in the middle ages<br />
it was a suburb located<br />
right before the city<br />
gates, and was named<br />
ad molendina for the<br />
many mills of the area.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Salt trading began well<br />
before the city was<br />
formed as it is now,<br />
records date back to as<br />
early as 1000 AD.<br />
Uros Urosevic<br />
Santorini<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi to Fira costs<br />
€10 and €25 to Oia.<br />
Buses run to Fira.<br />
Tickets: €1.40.<br />
From Fira, catch a<br />
bus to Athinios Port,<br />
Oia, Akrotiri, Perissa<br />
and Kamari.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Galini<br />
Cafe (Firostefani, tel:<br />
22860 22095) Perfect<br />
for watching Santorini’s<br />
melting sunsets, this<br />
laidback café mixes<br />
great cocktails, and<br />
offers sweeping views<br />
of the caldera and<br />
volcanic islets.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Koo Club (North end of<br />
cliffside walkway, Fira, tel:<br />
22860 22025) Tucked<br />
away in the Old Town,<br />
this legendary nightspot<br />
has been drawing<br />
crowds for more than 20<br />
years – its palm-fringed<br />
courtyard buzzing<br />
with house, trance and<br />
techno parties.<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
ROMANTIK<br />
ELIXHAUSEN<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
The luxury spa in this<br />
charming hotel enjoys<br />
beautiful panoramic<br />
views and offers<br />
indulgent treatments.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €123, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Blue Sky<br />
(Oia, tel: 22860 71179)<br />
This taverna in the heart<br />
of whitewashed Oia is<br />
perfect for whiling<br />
away an afternoon or<br />
evening over classic<br />
dishes such as grilled<br />
octopus, moussaka<br />
and house-special<br />
lobster spaghetti.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ambrosia (Oia, tel:<br />
22860 71413) Panoramic<br />
views, a cliff-top setting<br />
and an adventurous<br />
take on Mediterranean<br />
cuisine keep gourmands<br />
fl ocking here year after<br />
year. Try starters such<br />
as roasted Santorini<br />
aubergine, and fi nish<br />
with beef fi llet cooked<br />
in local Vinsanto wine<br />
with truffl es.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Purchase<br />
tasteful replicas of<br />
Santorini’s famous wall<br />
paintings, along with<br />
mosaics and vases, from<br />
the skilled craftsmen<br />
at Akron Art Centre<br />
(Megaloxori, tel: 22860<br />
82002, wallpaintingsgreece.com).<br />
GO Zip up the tight<br />
hairpins by car or go<br />
by plodding donkey to<br />
ancient Thira, one of<br />
the highest points on<br />
the island. Once there<br />
you can explore the vast<br />
ruins of houses, shops<br />
and theatres from the<br />
ninth century BC.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Don’t forget to pick<br />
up some Santorini<br />
pumice to take home.<br />
Once the island’s main<br />
economy, it was even<br />
used, in part, to line<br />
the Suez Canal.<br />
James Williams<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 169<br />
Sharm El<br />
Sheikh Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs EGP120.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ribs<br />
(Noria Resort, Na’ama<br />
Bay, tel: 012 930 0799)<br />
If you’re a meat lover,<br />
then head to Ribs<br />
where your favourite<br />
cut will be prepared to<br />
order and served with<br />
salad and fries. The<br />
charcoal-grilled ribs are<br />
a speciality, strictly for<br />
non-vegetarians.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La Fleur<br />
(Mövenpick Hotel,<br />
Na’ama Bay, tel: 069<br />
360 0100) The à la carte<br />
menu, with its strong<br />
French accent, offers<br />
gourmet dining in an<br />
elegant and luxurious<br />
setting. Check the<br />
chef’s daily specials and<br />
accompany your meal<br />
with a bottle from the<br />
international selection.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Champion’s Pub (Aqua<br />
Park Mall, Hadaba) Well<br />
off the tourist track, the<br />
prices here are fair and<br />
PLANNING TO DIVE IN THE RED SEA?<br />
Avoid Rogue Operators<br />
Dive only with legal diving operators on your next trip to<br />
Egypt’s Red Sea. All CDWS member dive operators have met ISO<br />
standards EN 14467 / ISO 24803 for diving to ensure your diving<br />
safety. For a full list of legal diving operators in Egypt visit:<br />
www.cdws.travel<br />
the bar menu tasty and<br />
varied. There’s also a<br />
pool table, live sports on<br />
TV, and plenty of indoor<br />
and outdoor seating.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Castello (Alf Leila Wa<br />
Leila, Hadaba, tel: 069<br />
366 4281) This open-air<br />
venue is the largest club<br />
in Sharm, the castlestyle<br />
surroundings with<br />
unique medieval décor<br />
ensure some perfectly<br />
quirky hardcore<br />
clubbing. Not to be<br />
missed is the weekly<br />
La Dolce Vita party on<br />
a Friday night, with<br />
international DJs playing<br />
the latest club tracks.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Isis specialises<br />
in authentic Egyptian<br />
fashion for ladies<br />
including beautiful handbeaded<br />
evening dresses<br />
and ornate belly-dancing<br />
costumes for those<br />
who dare! (Na’ama Bay<br />
Shopping Centre).<br />
SEE For an easy and<br />
fun glimpse of the<br />
underwater world all you<br />
need is a mask, snorkel<br />
and pair of fi ns. Many<br />
of the most beautiful<br />
Red Sea coral reefs are<br />
close to the surface<br />
and can be explored<br />
directly from the beach<br />
in front of your hotel.<br />
But please remember<br />
never touch or feed any<br />
of the marine life.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Red Sea is the<br />
warmest sea in the<br />
world with a range in<br />
temperature of 20°C in<br />
the winter to 30°C or<br />
more in the summer.<br />
Penny Orford<br />
www.cdws.travel
170 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Sofia<br />
Bulgaria<br />
DIALLING CODE +359<br />
CURRENCY Leu (BGN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs BGN14.<br />
Catch bus 84 from<br />
Terminal 1 or bus<br />
284 from Terminal 2.<br />
Tickets: BGN1. The<br />
white marshrutkas van<br />
number 30 goes to the<br />
centre. Tickets: BGN1.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Funky<br />
Kitchen (26 Stefan<br />
Karadzha Street)<br />
Unique design, nice<br />
background music<br />
and good cuisine<br />
can all be expected<br />
here, as you relax on<br />
the eclectic mix of<br />
comfortable loungers<br />
dotted around<br />
the place.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Sushi<br />
Lounge Bar (132<br />
Bulgaria Boulevard)<br />
This Japanese venue<br />
is the new kid on<br />
the block and is<br />
proving to be rather<br />
popular. There is an<br />
expansive menu of<br />
both Japanese cuisine,<br />
including noodles and<br />
soups, and fi ne, fresh<br />
sushi – yum!<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Beer<br />
House Warsteiner<br />
Garden (7A Gurko<br />
Street) What more<br />
could you ask for:<br />
cold beer in a friendly<br />
atmosphere and<br />
tasty chicken wings?<br />
An excellent start<br />
for a long night out,<br />
or the perfect end<br />
to your day.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Club Antrez<br />
(10 Vrabcha Street,<br />
tel: 988 8030) Every<br />
night different DJ sets,<br />
karaoke and warm,<br />
inviting people make<br />
this an excellent place<br />
to party. If you get<br />
a little peckish after<br />
all that dancing,<br />
there’s an in-house<br />
restaurant that’s open<br />
till late, too.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Bio food<br />
shop My Organic<br />
Market stocks<br />
all natural foods,<br />
cosmetics and clothes.<br />
It’s the perfect place<br />
for the vegan in you to<br />
stock up on supplies<br />
(3 Yantra Street).<br />
SEE Concha Buika,<br />
the black pearl of<br />
Spanish music, will sing<br />
in Sofi a on 17 April. It’s<br />
an occasion not to be<br />
missed as the señorita<br />
wows the crowds with<br />
her hit songs (National<br />
Palace of Culture).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The name Sofi a means<br />
wisdom in ancient<br />
Greek and the motto of<br />
the city is: it grows, but<br />
it doesn’t grow older.<br />
Maya Kozareva<br />
Split<br />
Croatia<br />
DIALLING CODE +385<br />
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs HRK150.<br />
Bus 37 goes to<br />
Split’s main bus<br />
station. Tickets: HRK15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
feel the weight of history<br />
rest on your latte. There’s<br />
often live music, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Ghetto Pub (10 Dosud)<br />
Climb up to the littleknown<br />
second fl oor<br />
of this building, and<br />
you’ll fi nd this grungy,<br />
nefarious drinking den,<br />
where there will be<br />
dancing and revellry<br />
guaranteed till dawn.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The fi sh market<br />
has stood on this very<br />
spot for as long as<br />
anyone can remember. If<br />
you are self catering, buy<br />
your own fi shy treats or<br />
check out the informal<br />
bar or restaurant that<br />
overlook the market and<br />
eat in (5 Obrov).<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Zlatna<br />
Vrata (7 Dioklecijanova,<br />
tel: 021 345 015) Recline<br />
within the mighty walls<br />
of Diocletian’s Palace<br />
enjoying delicious thincrust<br />
pizzas that any<br />
Italian mamma would<br />
be proud of.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Šumica<br />
(6 Put Firula, tel: 021 515<br />
911) Break away from the<br />
city centre throng and<br />
head south to this eatery<br />
hidden away in woodland<br />
by the sea. Join the local<br />
moneyed set eating<br />
top-notch seafood<br />
cooked to perfection as<br />
well as some excellent<br />
domestic wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Luxor<br />
(Peristil) Grab a cushion<br />
then recline on the<br />
steps of the great<br />
public square inside the<br />
Diocletian’s Palace and<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Born to a poor Dalmatian<br />
family, Diocletian rose<br />
through the ranks to<br />
become the Roman<br />
Emperor and ruled for<br />
more than 20 years.<br />
Robin McKelvie/<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
MARJAN<br />
HILL<br />
GO The mighty<br />
Marjan Hill towers<br />
above the city<br />
– aiming for the big<br />
swaying Croatian fl ag<br />
hike up the slopes<br />
to enjoy remarkable<br />
views of the city and<br />
the Dalmatian islands.<br />
Stockholm<br />
Sweden<br />
DIALLING CODE +46<br />
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs SEK450.<br />
Flygbussarna<br />
coaches depart<br />
for the city centre.<br />
Tickets: SEK219 return.<br />
The Arlanda<br />
Express goes to<br />
the city centre. Tickets:<br />
SEK240 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Monarki<br />
(14 Kungstensgatan,<br />
Vasastan, tel: 08 4002<br />
0406) Enjoy a laidback<br />
vibe, pictures of the<br />
Swedish king in Speedos<br />
and pan-Asian dishes<br />
in this venue, which<br />
proudly pronounces its<br />
fare as crossover cuisine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Lux (116<br />
Primusgatan, tel: 08 619<br />
0190) This acclaimed<br />
restaurant housed<br />
in the old Electrolux<br />
canteen offers artsy<br />
and playful gastronomy.<br />
The menu changes<br />
with the seasons – try<br />
the Västmanland deer<br />
steak with shallots,<br />
almond potato purée<br />
and green peppers,<br />
a real tasty treat.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Le Bar Rouge (17<br />
Österlånggatan) The<br />
ambience at this bloodred,<br />
velvet-clad bar feels<br />
more Moulin Rouge<br />
than Stockholm.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Lab (20 Birger<br />
Jarlsgatan, tel: 08 5450<br />
3702) This is the most<br />
intimate club around,<br />
and also the only<br />
nightclub in Sweden that<br />
stays open until 5am<br />
every night. Be prepared<br />
for lines outside and<br />
crowds inside.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Whyred has<br />
become one of Sweden’s<br />
hippest fashion exports.<br />
At the fl agship store<br />
you can browse the<br />
mod-inspired label’s<br />
monochrome colours,<br />
cool prints and<br />
clean lines (5 Mäster<br />
Samuelsgatan).<br />
SEE Skyview opened<br />
just over a month ago,<br />
and is Stockholm’s<br />
newest tourist attraction.<br />
Take the 16-seat glass<br />
gondola up to the top of<br />
The Stockholm Globe<br />
and enjoy a spectacular<br />
view (2 Globentorget).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
On Maundy Thursday<br />
(Skärstorsdag), you’ll<br />
see children dressed as<br />
witches visiting houses,<br />
looking for sweets (1<br />
April). This tradition<br />
predates Christianity<br />
when, according to<br />
folklore, witches fl ew to<br />
dance with Satan at<br />
a place called Blåkulla<br />
on this day.<br />
Victoria Larsson
Tallinn<br />
Estonia<br />
DIALLING CODE +372<br />
CURRENCY Kroon (EEK)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs EEK150.<br />
Route 2 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: EEK25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Spirit<br />
Café (6E Mere, tel: 661<br />
6151) A large selection<br />
of salads, pasta dishes<br />
and sushi are doled out<br />
within this stylish setting<br />
near the Old Town.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Horisont<br />
(3 Tornimäe, tel: 624<br />
0000) The sophisticated<br />
Horisont also has a<br />
bar and cigar lounge,<br />
as well as unparalleled<br />
views from its 30th-fl oor<br />
location looking out over<br />
the Old Town, the city<br />
and the bay.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Tigu (45<br />
J. Vilmsi) “Snail” is like<br />
a cosy living room you<br />
want to share with your<br />
friends, even better in<br />
fact, because you don’t<br />
have to get up to make<br />
the drinks!<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Korter (9 Roseni) The<br />
latest addition to the<br />
city’s night scene, this<br />
venue stands out for its<br />
alternative music and<br />
live bands thrown in.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Rocca al Mare<br />
Shopping Center is one<br />
of the largest in Estonia,<br />
and is home to 170<br />
stores over 54,000m 2 .<br />
It’s also easily reached<br />
from the city (102<br />
Paldiski, tel: 665 9100).<br />
SEE The Jazzkaar<br />
Festival is one of the<br />
most important cultural<br />
events in Estonia and the<br />
best jazz festival in the<br />
Baltics. Catch the 21st<br />
edition from 24 April–2<br />
May (jazzkaar.ee).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The airport is just 4km<br />
from the city centre. So,<br />
if you fancy a walk, it’s<br />
just a 45-minute stroll.<br />
Where else in the world<br />
could you do that?<br />
Ain Hinsberg<br />
Tangier<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs MAD100.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Yachting<br />
Club (Port of Tangier)<br />
Dine boat-side<br />
Mediterranean-style<br />
with the salt-encrusted<br />
daily catch or shrimp<br />
cocktail. The Moroccan<br />
specialties are also<br />
a reliable choice.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Relais<br />
de Paris (Dawliz<br />
Complex, tel: 0539 331<br />
819) Candle light and<br />
a balcony overlooking<br />
the port of the city<br />
make the setting for<br />
traditional French<br />
cuisine, always with<br />
a seasonal speciality<br />
from the souks. Try<br />
a Cuban cigar for<br />
a smooth fi nish.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cafe Hafa<br />
(Next to the Phoenician<br />
Tombs, Marshan)<br />
Located on the edge of<br />
Africa, literally hanging<br />
onto a cliff with a<br />
view of Spain, Hafa<br />
opened in 1921 and still<br />
welcomes musicians,<br />
writers and locals,<br />
especially at sunset.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Al<br />
Khayam/Oba Oba<br />
(Avenue Mohamed VI)<br />
Two discos located in<br />
the same building offer<br />
a variety of music. Al<br />
Khayam is a traditional<br />
Oriental-style cabaret<br />
with live singing,<br />
while Oba Oba in the<br />
basement is a mix<br />
of loud house and<br />
some international pop.<br />
TAXI TAXI TAXI<br />
UNIQUESTAY<br />
MIHKLI<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This trendy hotel has<br />
two restaurants and<br />
a spa and wellness<br />
centre, making it the<br />
perfect place to stay.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €82, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
DOMINA HOTEL TALLINN<br />
SEE OUR ADVERT ON PAGE 172<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Darna<br />
Center’s boutique<br />
offers funky bric-à-brac,<br />
hand-painted objects<br />
and handmade clothes<br />
and tapestries, all made<br />
by the members of<br />
a charity to help<br />
women at risk (Rue<br />
Jules Cot, Grand Socco,<br />
tel: 0539 947 065).<br />
GO Stroll through Fez<br />
Market and get<br />
a sampling of the<br />
wild fl owers of the<br />
region, monkeys,<br />
rare birds, fi sh<br />
and sometimes<br />
local truffl es and<br />
mushrooms. It’s<br />
also next to Rue de<br />
Mexique, a bustling<br />
fashion street, and the<br />
Mauritania cinema,<br />
which plays old-school<br />
Bollywood fi lms.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Legend has it that<br />
Tangier is named for<br />
Tingis, the wife of<br />
Antaeus the giant,<br />
whom Hercules slayed.<br />
Hercules and Tingis<br />
then had a son, Sophox,<br />
who founded the city.<br />
Melody Nelson<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 171<br />
Tel Aviv<br />
Israel<br />
DIALLING CODE +972<br />
CURRENCY ILS<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs ILS120.<br />
Trains go to the<br />
Central and<br />
HaShalom stations.<br />
Tickets: ILS13.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Lehamim<br />
(99 Hashmonaim<br />
Street, tel: 03 561<br />
8111) The Hebrew word<br />
“Lehamim” is the<br />
plural of bread, and this<br />
is by far the best bakery<br />
in Tel Aviv. Grab a few<br />
delicious sweet<br />
or savoury pastries<br />
with some coffee as<br />
a quick lunch.<br />
UP TO €30 Brasserie<br />
(70 Ibn Gvirol Street,<br />
tel: 03 696 7111) A<br />
French bistro that has<br />
become a well-known<br />
establishment,<br />
the menus change<br />
according to the time<br />
of day and it’s almost<br />
always packed out.<br />
UP TO €50 Onami<br />
(18 Ha’Arbaa Street,<br />
tel: 03 562 0981)<br />
Opened 10 years ago,<br />
Onami is an oasis for<br />
Japanese residents in<br />
Tel Aviv, or for fans or<br />
all things Japanese.<br />
Though it doesn’t<br />
come cheap, the food<br />
is totally worth it.<br />
Try the agadashi<br />
tofu or the teriyaki<br />
beef fi llet for a<br />
delicious explosion<br />
in your mouth.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Turquoise (Sea & Sun<br />
Complex, 6 Hertzel<br />
Rosenbloom Street,<br />
tel: 03 699 6306)<br />
Located in a luxury<br />
building north of the<br />
city and overlooking<br />
a beautiful beach,<br />
Turquoise offers a<br />
unique Mediterranean<br />
menu that specialises<br />
in seafood. The<br />
rich wine list is the<br />
perfect companion<br />
for the great food and<br />
spectacular views.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Levontin7 (7<br />
Levontin Street, tel:<br />
03 560 5084) Right<br />
underneath this fun<br />
and lively bar lies a<br />
small, dark venue for<br />
indie rock musicians.<br />
Though there is no<br />
permanent schedule<br />
for the various<br />
concerts, the weekends<br />
are a relatively safe bet<br />
for jamming and<br />
rocking till late in<br />
to the night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Lima<br />
Lima (42 Lilenblum<br />
Street, tel: 03 560<br />
0924) This cosy<br />
daytime bar morphs<br />
into a crowded club<br />
come nightfall. Usually<br />
you’ll hear hip hop<br />
music blasting out<br />
of the speakers,
172 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Tel Aviv<br />
Israel<br />
but Saturday night<br />
is pure electro.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Carousel is<br />
a unique shop that<br />
sells furniture and<br />
items designed<br />
especially for kids.<br />
For décor inspiration<br />
for the little ones, or<br />
a few easy-to-takehome<br />
accessories,<br />
this is the spot (27<br />
Rothschild Boulevard,<br />
tel: 03 560 3750).<br />
SEE When the T-<br />
Market festival started<br />
a few years ago it was<br />
a small underground<br />
venture. Now it has<br />
become a huge bazaar<br />
dedicated entirely<br />
to the world’s most<br />
versatile piece of<br />
clothing, the T-shirt.<br />
Dozens of local<br />
designers sell cool<br />
and original T-shirts<br />
for around ILS100,<br />
while great music and<br />
lots of beer make this<br />
in to a lively event.<br />
This year the festival<br />
runs from 3–5 April<br />
(Barzilay Club, 13<br />
Harechev Street).<br />
GO April is the perfect<br />
time of the year to<br />
take a walk down<br />
the Tel Aviv boardwalk.<br />
It’s not too hot, you’re<br />
guaranteed beautiful<br />
sunsets, and there are<br />
plenty of restaurants<br />
in the area to sit<br />
down and sip<br />
delicious sundowners.<br />
ESCAPE Holon is<br />
just 20 minutes from<br />
Tel Aviv by taxi or bus.<br />
It is home to many<br />
exquisite museums,<br />
such as the brand<br />
new Design Museum<br />
designed by the worldfamous<br />
Ron Arad, the<br />
Children’s Museum,<br />
the Comics Museum<br />
and the Science<br />
Museum. Head here<br />
for a day of culture and<br />
you may not feel the<br />
need to visit another<br />
museum all year!<br />
(holon.muni.il).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Dizengoff Street,<br />
the longest in Tel<br />
Aviv, is so popular<br />
thanks to its shops and<br />
cafés that during<br />
the 1980s it was<br />
even graced with<br />
its own slang verb<br />
“lehizdangef” meaning<br />
to amble or wander.<br />
Jonathan Canetti<br />
LOW<br />
KEY<br />
LoveEat (3 Nahalat<br />
Binyamin Street, tel:<br />
03 516 4412) This<br />
venue attracts young<br />
hip Tel Avivians. Enjoy<br />
light snacks with fresh<br />
coffee and fruit juices.<br />
It’s the perfect spot<br />
for reading.<br />
Tenerife<br />
South Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €25.<br />
Route 487 stops at<br />
Los Cristianos and<br />
Playa de Las Americas.<br />
Tickets: €3 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Greek<br />
Corner (Centro<br />
Comercial Palm<br />
Beach, Playa de Las<br />
Americas, tel: 922 753<br />
788) For those bored<br />
with tapas why not go<br />
Greek at this authentic<br />
restaurant where<br />
the biftekia gemista<br />
(meatballs stuffed with<br />
feta cheese) are the<br />
house speciality.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Bistrot D’Alain<br />
(16 Valle Menendez, Los<br />
Cristianos, tel: 922 752<br />
336) Run by successful<br />
French restaurateur<br />
Alain Mills, this<br />
romantic restaurant<br />
offers diners a taste of<br />
France. Dishes<br />
such as duck confi t<br />
and lamb chaldron<br />
with mushrooms are<br />
just some of the stars<br />
on the menu.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Ben’s Bar<br />
(St Eugenio Alto, Adeje,<br />
tel: 922 713 314) If you<br />
want a venue where the<br />
children get as much<br />
entertainment as you<br />
do, this is the perfect<br />
place for all.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Shenanigans (The<br />
Patch, Playa de Las<br />
Americas) Some of the<br />
island’s top acts feature<br />
at this lively bar, with<br />
a happy “hour” from<br />
7pm–10pm.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you like a store<br />
that has everything<br />
under one roof, El Corte<br />
Ingles is the place for<br />
you. Getting there<br />
requires an hour-long<br />
bus ride from Los<br />
Cristianos, but it is<br />
worth it to enjoy seven<br />
fl oors of quality goods<br />
(tel: 922 849 400).<br />
SEE From 23 April,<br />
towns such as Vilafl or<br />
and Icod de los Vinos<br />
celebrate the Fiesta<br />
del Santo Hermano<br />
Pedro, the patron saint<br />
of Tenerife. Also on<br />
this month, Whitney<br />
Houston sings live in<br />
Santa Cruz on the 30th<br />
at the Recinto Autoridad<br />
Portuaria de Santa Cruz<br />
de Tenerife.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Tenerife may just be a<br />
small island off the coast<br />
of North Africa, but it’s<br />
attracted some bigname<br />
musicians to its<br />
shores. Michael Jackson,<br />
Rod Stewart and Elton<br />
John are just a few of the<br />
past performers.<br />
Natasha Laming<br />
Thessaloniki<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 78 goes to<br />
the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Rogoti<br />
(8 Venizelou, tel: 2310<br />
277 694) This is one of<br />
the oldest restaurants in<br />
town and an ideal spot<br />
for lunch. Try the famous<br />
rosiki salata dip and<br />
soutzoukakia meatballs.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Interni<br />
(6 Megalou Alexandrou<br />
Street, tel: 2310 888<br />
865) This trendy<br />
waterfront restaurant<br />
and lounge bar has<br />
its own light and art<br />
installations. Enjoy the<br />
Asian fusion menu or<br />
bellini cocktails at the<br />
bar, as you peer out over<br />
the gulf of Thermikos.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Local<br />
Espresso Bar (17<br />
Germanou, Palaion<br />
Patron, tel: 2310 223<br />
307) Although it doesn’t<br />
sound like much, this is<br />
one of the city’s coolest<br />
hangouts. Whether it’s<br />
for early morning coffee<br />
or late-night drinks, this<br />
café-bar always has a<br />
hip crowd.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Lido Paradise (14km<br />
Salonica–Mihaniona<br />
Road, tel: 2310 471 021)<br />
Billed as the best dance<br />
club in Thessaloniki,<br />
Paradise hosts super<br />
parties and special<br />
events with live acts from<br />
Wednesday–Sunday. In<br />
the summer the terrace<br />
doesn’t close until after<br />
the gorgeous sunrise.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Modiano Market<br />
is the city’s biggest<br />
food market, and is<br />
heaving with fresh, local<br />
produce. Open air dining<br />
and nearby fl ower shops<br />
bring more colour and<br />
hubbub to this already<br />
buzzing area (between<br />
Aristotelous, Ermou,<br />
Vasileos Irakleiou, and<br />
Komninon Streets).<br />
SEE The Museum of<br />
Byzantine Culture is<br />
home to an impressive<br />
collection of historic<br />
art and icons. Exhibits<br />
are well-lit giving this<br />
museum the awesome<br />
glow of a giant treasure<br />
trove (2 Stratou Avenue,<br />
tel: 2310 838 597).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A glass of café<br />
frappé – invented in<br />
Thessaloniki and made<br />
with instant coffee,<br />
sugar, water and ice –<br />
is often as strong as<br />
four espresso shots.<br />
Many cafés in Greece<br />
make it with two<br />
tablespoons of coffee!<br />
Deborah Hatch
174 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Toulouse<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Toulouse-<br />
Blagnac Navette<br />
goes to the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €6 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Bar le<br />
Moderne (5 Rue du<br />
Rempart Villeneuve,<br />
tel: 05 6121 8772) This<br />
cosy café opposite<br />
the market serves up<br />
hearty salads and hot<br />
dishes at unbeatable<br />
prices. Sit outside on<br />
the terrace if there’s<br />
some early sun,<br />
otherwise grab<br />
a leather chair inside.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Rose Bonbon<br />
(6 Bis Impasse de la<br />
Colombette, tel: 05<br />
6163 4846) You’ll fi nd<br />
this perfect spring<br />
hideaway within a little<br />
courtyard in the centre<br />
of town. Perfectly<br />
intimate in the<br />
evenings with candles<br />
and cosy nooks, it<br />
attracts many couples.<br />
Known for the dish<br />
that marries foie gras,<br />
with a side of beef in<br />
a foie gras sauce – this<br />
one is not for dieters.<br />
UP TO €50 L’Arôme<br />
et le Grain (4 Rue<br />
Isatis, Labège, tel: 05<br />
6247 5453) Really<br />
worth checking out on<br />
a (hopefully) sunny<br />
Easter weekend, this<br />
old farmhouse right<br />
by the river mixes<br />
Oriental, French and<br />
Moroccan infl uences<br />
into a dazzling array<br />
of fl avours – be sure<br />
to try the pigeon.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
L’Amphitryon<br />
(Chemin de Gramont,<br />
Colomiers, tel: 05 6115<br />
5555) Just minutes<br />
from the city centre,<br />
L’Amphitryon features<br />
the unique creations<br />
of renowned chef<br />
Yannick Delpech. Its<br />
glass-roofed, dome<br />
terrace overlooks<br />
a wooded park and<br />
the city of Toulouse<br />
beyond, with a<br />
permanent wroughtiron<br />
exhibit within.<br />
Restaurant Michel<br />
Sarran (21 Boulevard<br />
Armand Duportal,<br />
tel: 05 6112 3232)<br />
Here you’ll fi nd refi ned<br />
southern cuisine<br />
prepared by one of<br />
Michelin’s brightest<br />
stars, Michel Sarran.<br />
Award-winning wines,<br />
traditional dishes<br />
and decidedly divine<br />
presentation await you<br />
in this utterly perfect<br />
spot. Try the egg and<br />
hen dressed with<br />
Aquitaine caviar, and<br />
shortbread almonds<br />
fl avoured with rhubarb,<br />
strawberry and thyme<br />
for dessert.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Van<br />
Gogh (21 Place<br />
Saint Georges, tel:<br />
05 6227 0449) The<br />
big terrace is ideal<br />
for people-watching<br />
and the atmosphere<br />
in this brasseriecafé-restaurant<br />
is so<br />
laidback that if you<br />
start the evening here,<br />
you just might end up<br />
sticking around<br />
all evening – very cool.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Mulligan’s (39 Grande<br />
Rue St Michel, tel: 05<br />
6114 0421) If you fancy<br />
a bit of Ireland, this<br />
pub has it all – beer,<br />
whiskey, quiz nights,<br />
student nights with<br />
cheesy pop, live music<br />
and sport on the TVs.<br />
All of this combined<br />
with a good craic too<br />
– what more could<br />
you want?<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Disco Le Maximo<br />
(4 Rue Gabrielle-Peri,<br />
tel: 05 3441 1565)<br />
A fashionable, ultramodern<br />
dance venue<br />
catering to a welldressed<br />
clientèle with<br />
electro-house music.<br />
Things get started<br />
at 11pm and don’t<br />
wind down until 5am,<br />
from Thursday–<br />
Saturday nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Monde<br />
Meilleur buys and<br />
sells videogames,<br />
music and DVDs and<br />
has one of the widest<br />
selections around. It’s<br />
just the place to dive<br />
into on a rainy<br />
Saturday and while<br />
away a good few<br />
hours (7 Rue Lois, tel:<br />
05 6230 0090).<br />
SHOP Boutique<br />
Caroll caters to ladies<br />
who love fashion with<br />
traditional, elegant<br />
and distinctly feminine<br />
women’s clothes. Go<br />
on, you deserve it (31<br />
Rue Alsace Lorraine,<br />
tel: 05 6112 2497).<br />
SEE The Festival du<br />
Jeu features more<br />
board games than<br />
you ever dreamed<br />
existed all on display<br />
from 23–25 April in<br />
the Parc des Expos.<br />
If big gigs, rather than<br />
board games are more<br />
your cup of tea, Mika<br />
plays on the 30th in<br />
the Zenith Centre<br />
(tel: 05 6274 4949).<br />
GO Toulouse boasts<br />
a concentration of<br />
gardens in the heart of<br />
town. The Quartier de<br />
Jardins includes the<br />
Jardin du Grand-Rond,<br />
the Jardin des Plantes,<br />
and the Jardin Royal,<br />
which are all just<br />
coming in to bloom<br />
now. Plus, there are<br />
enough statues to fi ll<br />
a photo album.<br />
ESCAPE Albi is<br />
around an hour<br />
away by car and has<br />
fab architecture,<br />
a good market, a<br />
cathedral, and the<br />
entertaining and<br />
fascinating Toulouse<br />
Lautrec Museum.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
There are 160 parks,<br />
gardens, and squares<br />
in Toulouse – who<br />
knows where people<br />
fi nd the space to<br />
actually build a house.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Turin<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
Buses go to the<br />
city. Tickets: €5.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Circolo<br />
dei Lettori (9 Via<br />
Gianbattista Bogino, tel:<br />
011 432 6828) Beautiful<br />
baroque Palazzo Graneri<br />
della Roccia hosts<br />
this restaurant: think<br />
creative regional cuisine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Porta di<br />
Po (1E Piazza Vittorio<br />
Veneto, tel: 011 812<br />
7642) Here you’ll fi nd<br />
restored drawings<br />
adorning the walls and<br />
ancient tastes on the<br />
menu. Try the roast<br />
meat cooked with<br />
Barbera wine in this<br />
charming ambience.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cabiria<br />
Café (20 Via Montebello,<br />
tel: 011 813 8560) In the<br />
basement of the Mole<br />
Antonelliana Museum<br />
of Cinema you’ll fi nd<br />
the café where you can<br />
sip a cup of tea while<br />
watching old movie clips.<br />
If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />
and cannot take it with you, visit<br />
‰infl ight.com/emag<br />
‰<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Victory Pub (32 Corso<br />
Francia, tel: 011 411<br />
8056) In this Englishstyle<br />
pub you’ll certainly<br />
be convinced by the<br />
range of beers and ales.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP P.A.I.S.S.A. has<br />
a huge selection of<br />
culinary products – the<br />
Easter eggs by Venchi<br />
are a pure delight (196<br />
Piazza San Carlo).<br />
GO On Via XX<br />
Settembre immerse<br />
yourself in ancient<br />
history. Here lie the<br />
remains of a Roman<br />
Theatre and the<br />
Renaissance Cathedral<br />
of Saint John, where the<br />
Holy Shroud is exposed<br />
from 10 April–23 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Turin produces drinking<br />
water for International<br />
Space Stations. The<br />
water is iodinated<br />
for Americans, and<br />
disinfected with silver<br />
for Russians.<br />
Elena Pietrovichillo<br />
HOTEL AC<br />
TORINO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Housed within an<br />
historic building<br />
dating back to 1908,<br />
the AC Torino makes<br />
for a luxurious stay.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €110, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
00000 EasyJet WEBSITE NEW.indd 1 18/3/10 09:41:25<br />
TAXI
Valencia<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €16.<br />
Metro lines 3 and<br />
5 run to the city<br />
centre and train station.<br />
Tickets: €1.90<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Beirut King (4 Calle<br />
Felip María Garín,<br />
Mestalla, tel: 963 372<br />
164) Got a craving for<br />
hummus, falafel wraps<br />
and fresh kebabs? Then<br />
this contemporary<br />
Lebanese restaurant is<br />
the place to be.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ca’Sento<br />
(17 Méndez Nuñez,<br />
tel: 963 301 775) One<br />
of Valencia’s top fi ve<br />
restaurants where<br />
classic Mediterranean<br />
seafood dishes are<br />
given Michelin-star<br />
treatment. Try the<br />
lunch set menu for<br />
a taste of luxury that<br />
won’t leave you broke.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bianco La<br />
Terrazza (Edifi cio Veles<br />
i Vents, America’s Cup<br />
Port, tel: 963 448 944)<br />
The city’s terrazas have<br />
arrived with the spring<br />
sunshine and this one,<br />
in the heart of the<br />
renowned America’s<br />
Cup Port, is one of<br />
the best. Dress up<br />
and chill out.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Artico (11 Calle Arolas,<br />
tel: 963 910 857) Found<br />
hidden down one of<br />
the many back streets<br />
of Barrio Carmen,<br />
this stylish bar and<br />
restaurant buzzes<br />
with a mixed crowd<br />
of locals and intrepid<br />
tourists until late.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
A LFRIERI<br />
STUDIO DENTISTICO<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Booktique is<br />
the place to head for<br />
a dose of cuttingedge<br />
art and design<br />
literature, and one-off<br />
designer souvenirs (3<br />
Calle Mesón de Morella,<br />
tel: 963 920 626,<br />
booktiquelibreria.com).<br />
GO The Valencia<br />
region is famous for<br />
a sweet tigernut milk<br />
called horchata and<br />
Alboraya, 15 minutes<br />
from the centre of<br />
Valencia by metro, is<br />
the historic heart of<br />
its production. From<br />
Xàtiva, take line three<br />
in the direction of<br />
Rafelbunyol and go<br />
straight to Horchatería<br />
Daniel to try a long<br />
glass of it (46 Calle<br />
Milagro, Alboraya).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Spain is famous for its<br />
paella, but few people<br />
know that Valencia is<br />
the culinary cradle of<br />
the ricey creation.<br />
Owain Thomas<br />
Venice<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
The ACTV yellow<br />
bus 5 runs to<br />
Piazzale Roma. Tickets:<br />
€2.50 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Leon<br />
Bianco (4153 Salizada<br />
San Luca, San Marco,<br />
tel: 041 522 1180)<br />
While meandering<br />
around the city this is<br />
a useful central spot<br />
for a drink, a hot snack<br />
or toasted sandwich.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Gam-Gam (1122<br />
Sotoportego del Gheto<br />
Vechio, Cannaregio,<br />
tel: 041 715 284) The<br />
Ghetto’s only kosher<br />
restaurant offers<br />
a spread of Middle<br />
Eastern mezze to<br />
share as well as meat<br />
and fi sh dishes if it all<br />
looks too good to think<br />
of halving.<br />
UP TO €50 La<br />
Bitta (2753A Calle<br />
Lunga San Barnaba,<br />
Dorsoduro, tel: 041<br />
523 0531) A bistrostyle<br />
eatery with a little<br />
walled garden, which<br />
dishes up a short<br />
menu of tasty meat<br />
dishes and great<br />
local cheeses.<br />
Acquapazza (3808<br />
Campo Sant’Angelo,<br />
San Marco, tel: 041<br />
277 0688) Welcoming<br />
Antonio Ienacco offers<br />
deluxe pizzas and<br />
other specialities from<br />
his native Amalfi .<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Fiaschetteria Toscana<br />
(5719 Salizada San<br />
Giovanni Grisostomo,<br />
Cannaregio, tel: 041<br />
528 5281) Despite<br />
its misleading<br />
Tuscan-sounding<br />
name this trattoria is<br />
a bastion of Venetian<br />
cuisine, offering such<br />
delicacies as schie (tiny<br />
prawns) and granseola<br />
(spider crabs). For the<br />
squeamish there<br />
are hearty dishes<br />
of meat and pasta<br />
on offer, too.<br />
Ai Gondolieri (366<br />
Ponte del Formager,<br />
Dorsoduro, tel: 041<br />
528 6396) One of the<br />
city’s gastronomic<br />
Meccas with discreet<br />
service to match<br />
(the restaurant also<br />
runs the café at the<br />
Peggy Guggenheim<br />
Collection across<br />
the canal). The<br />
emphasis is on meat<br />
and vegetables.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Angio Bar<br />
(2142 Riva San Biagio,<br />
Castello, tel: 041 277<br />
8555) This waterfront<br />
bar is the perfect<br />
spot to sip a glass of<br />
wine or traditional<br />
Venetian spritz al biter<br />
DO YOU WANT TO SAVE 50% ON<br />
YOUR DENTAL TREATMENT?<br />
Treatments at The Alfrieri clinic are up to 50% cheaper than<br />
most in the UK, Germany and France.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 175<br />
(white wine, soda<br />
and Campari) while<br />
watching the sun set<br />
over the lagoon.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Chiesa San Vidal<br />
(2862B Campiello<br />
San Vidal, San<br />
Marco, tel: 041 277<br />
0593) Performances<br />
of mostly Italian<br />
classical pieces by<br />
the accomplished<br />
young Interpreti<br />
Veneziani ensemble<br />
are performed at this<br />
perfect venue. When<br />
people say Italian<br />
opera, this is what<br />
they are talking about!<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Da Aldo (2710<br />
Fondamenta dei<br />
Ormesini, Cannaregio,<br />
tel: 041 715 834)<br />
A favourite nightcap<br />
rendezvous among the<br />
young and trendy of<br />
the city, this bar stays<br />
open reliably late, for<br />
that one last drink<br />
before heading off.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For exquisite,<br />
SECRET<br />
ITINERARIES<br />
SEE Join this tour<br />
which guides through<br />
passageways and<br />
hidden chambers in<br />
the Doge’s Palace,<br />
and takes in the roof<br />
from which Casanova<br />
made a daring<br />
escape in 1756.<br />
handmade Venetian<br />
Easter chocolates<br />
look no further than<br />
Viziovirtù. You can<br />
indulge and drink<br />
a hot chocolate on the<br />
spot (2898A Calle del<br />
Campaniel, San Polo).<br />
GO Venice’s ancient<br />
ghetto is where the<br />
Jewish community<br />
was required to live<br />
from 1516 until 1797.<br />
The area takes its<br />
name from the local<br />
foundry (gheto) that<br />
was once there, and<br />
the term was adopted<br />
elsewhere. Very few<br />
Venetian Jews now<br />
live in the ghetto but<br />
the Lubavitch Hassidic<br />
sect from the US has<br />
recently established<br />
a presence there.<br />
ESCAPE If you fancy<br />
a country walk to<br />
enjoy the spring<br />
sunshine, take the<br />
number 13 vaporetto<br />
to the pleasingly<br />
rural market-garden<br />
lagoon island of<br />
Sant’Erasmo. If you<br />
don’t have time to<br />
pack a picnic, head for<br />
the Torre Massimiliano,<br />
an old Austrian fort,<br />
where you’ll fi nd the<br />
Tedeschi snack bar,<br />
a fab spot for lunch<br />
(tel: 041 520 3346).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Venice ceased to<br />
be an island when<br />
the 4km-long railway<br />
from the mainland<br />
was completed in<br />
1846. The parallel<br />
road link was opened<br />
only in 1933.<br />
Roderick Conway<br />
Morris/roderickconway<br />
morris.com
176 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Vienna<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €30.<br />
The CAT train<br />
goes to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €9 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Gigerl (3<br />
Rauhensteingasse, tel:<br />
01 513 4431) The everpopular<br />
Gigerl serves<br />
up schnitzels and<br />
salads galore in a cosy,<br />
traditional interior.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Drei Husaren (4<br />
Weihburggasse, tel:<br />
01 5121 0920) This<br />
venue has been here<br />
since 1933. Revel in the<br />
luxury of a bygone age,<br />
complemented by well-<br />
prepared Austrian fare.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Prückel (24 Stubenring,<br />
tel: 01 512 6115) The<br />
elegant 1950s interior<br />
still feels strikingly<br />
contemporary, while the<br />
service comes in a bowtied<br />
fashion here.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Palffy Club (6<br />
Jozefplatz, tel: 01 2575<br />
30522) The centre of<br />
Vienna was short on<br />
clubs, but now it’s got<br />
a venue smack in the<br />
Palffy Palace. Join in the<br />
fun with a glammed-up<br />
crowd in this venue.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Austrian wine is<br />
under-appreciated, but<br />
that looks set to change.<br />
Drop by the 99 Wines<br />
store, where the owners<br />
will help you choose<br />
(11 Praterstrasse).<br />
GO With spring fi nally<br />
blooming, go for a stroll<br />
in the Vienna woods.<br />
Head for Kahlenberg hill<br />
for an ancient twist.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Nineteenth century<br />
epidemics saw city<br />
graveyards moved to<br />
the outskirts. In Vienna,<br />
a pipeline was proposed<br />
to transport corpses<br />
to the cemeteries.<br />
However, the idea was<br />
soon rejected as a little<br />
too grotesque.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
vienna-life.com<br />
NH<br />
ATTERSEEHAUS<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This hotel specialises<br />
in self-contained<br />
apartments in the<br />
heart of Vienna.<br />
Enjoy breakfast on<br />
the hotel’s terrace.<br />
From €95, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Zante<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Benikos<br />
Greek Gourmet<br />
Taverna (Planos, Tsillivi,<br />
tel: 269 504 4982) A<br />
delightful taverna serving<br />
fresh, hand-selected<br />
and local ingredients<br />
throughout the delicious<br />
menu. Favourites include<br />
the bursting mezze<br />
platters and roasted<br />
lamb kleftiko.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Tzougkri<br />
(Thoukididou, Kalamaki,<br />
tel: 210 983 6260)<br />
“Food is our culture”<br />
is the motto here, and<br />
once you have sampled<br />
the mouth-watering<br />
menu it would be hard to<br />
argue with the animated<br />
owners. This upmarket<br />
venue serves some of<br />
the highest quality food<br />
on the island.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Iris Bar<br />
(Alykes, tel: 269 508<br />
3727) As the sun sets<br />
over the mountains<br />
you can sit among the<br />
beautiful Mediterranean<br />
fl ora of the terrace<br />
garden and sip on a<br />
cocktail. With a happy<br />
hour, tasty children’s<br />
menu and the best<br />
selection of draughts on<br />
the island – Iris Bar has<br />
something to please all.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Rescue Club (Laganas)<br />
The largest club on the<br />
island offers hedonism<br />
at its best. With oldschool<br />
anthems, neonnights,<br />
underground<br />
rave parties, and DJs,<br />
Rescue is a must for all<br />
party animals.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Sigouros is a<br />
man whose passion is<br />
Byzantine pottery. You<br />
can visit his studio to<br />
watch the making and<br />
painting of the exquisite<br />
ceramics, or purchase<br />
the perfect holiday<br />
souvenir at his shop<br />
(Sigouros Pottery, Roma<br />
Avenue, Zante Town, tel:<br />
269 502 3739).<br />
GO Don’t miss the<br />
boat to Navagio Beach<br />
(Shipwreck Bay),<br />
which is considered<br />
to be one of the most<br />
stunning beaches in the<br />
world. With the warm<br />
turquoise waters of the<br />
Ionian lapping at its<br />
white sandy beaches,<br />
this slice of Greek<br />
paradise will make<br />
your stay on Zante<br />
unforgettable.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The famous poet and<br />
writer of the Greek<br />
National Anthem,<br />
Dionysios Solomos<br />
was born on Zante.<br />
Victoria Poole<br />
Zürich<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs CHF60.<br />
Trains make the<br />
journey to the city<br />
centre every 15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: CHF6.20<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Forum<br />
(120 Badenerstrasse,<br />
tel: 043 243 8888)<br />
This casual but hip<br />
lounge bar is a great<br />
spot for Sunday<br />
brunch – order the<br />
tasty fry up.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Casa Aurelio (209<br />
Langstrasse, tel:<br />
044 272 7744)<br />
Traditional Spanish<br />
dishes are prepared<br />
on-site using the fi nest<br />
ingredients around.<br />
The extravagant<br />
interior and lively<br />
atmosphere are thanks<br />
to the irresistible and<br />
authentic hospitality<br />
of hosts Aurelio<br />
and Theresa.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Pelikanbar<br />
(18 Pelikanstrasse)<br />
Part of the famous<br />
Kaufl euten nightclub,<br />
this bright and calm<br />
café serves up great<br />
chocolate cake or<br />
cocktails, depending<br />
on your mood.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Zukunft (33<br />
Dienerstrasse) Its<br />
interior, similar to<br />
its music policy, is<br />
minimal but with a<br />
delectable disco twist<br />
on the side.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Freitag, a<br />
hip accessory label,<br />
has become one of<br />
Switzerland’s most<br />
famous names. The<br />
original courier bag,<br />
made out of recycled<br />
truck tarpaulins, is<br />
now a design classic<br />
and the fl agship<br />
store also stocks<br />
wallets, phone covers<br />
and even footballs<br />
(17 Geroldstrasse,<br />
freitag.ch).<br />
SEE Catch Global<br />
Design at the Design<br />
Museum throughout<br />
the month. The<br />
fascinating exhibition<br />
aims to show the<br />
effects that the<br />
globalised world<br />
has had on design<br />
since the 1970s<br />
(Museum für<br />
Gestaltung, museumgestaltung.ch).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
According to<br />
legend, the spooky<br />
Grossmunster Church<br />
is where the beheaded<br />
corpses of patron<br />
saints Felix and Regula<br />
dragged themselves<br />
to for their fi nal burial.<br />
Celeste Neill-Duvoison<br />
PRIVATE BANKERS RECOMMEND AN INDEPENDENT CONTROLLING OF ASSETS<br />
We assist you to achieve your risk/return objectives by<br />
controlling and monitoring the performance of your portfolios<br />
We have been independently controlling the assets<br />
of families and individuals for over 20 years<br />
SAGA<br />
Independent Controlling<br />
International<br />
Cabinet Comptable<br />
Ayoob Rawat<br />
INVESTMENT ACCOUNTING, GLOBAL REPORTING,<br />
CONTROLLING AND RISK MANAGEMENT SERVICES<br />
Call us on +41 (0)22 347 2461<br />
Visit and register at www.saga-ici.ch<br />
email us on: contact@saga-ici.ch
Sicily<br />
Apulia<br />
Tuscany<br />
Piedmont<br />
Dolomites<br />
Amalfi Coast<br />
... and more<br />
Distinctive<br />
Luxury<br />
BW ZANTE PARK HOTELS<br />
Laganas, GR-29100 Zakynthos<br />
Tel. +30 26950 52310-4, Fax +30 26950 51949<br />
e-mail: zantepark@zanteparkhotels.gr<br />
www.zanteparkhotels.travel<br />
Athens Office: XT Travel Services, 1 Omirou Str.,<br />
Nea Smyrni, GR-17121 Athens<br />
Tel. +30 210 9343468, Fax +30 210 9356512<br />
e-mail: xttravel@xttravelservices.gr<br />
www.xttravelservices.gr
CUSTOMER | CARE<br />
How to Contact Us<br />
Our customer<br />
experience team is<br />
available to help you,<br />
they are open 8am<br />
– 8pm Monday to<br />
Friday and 9am<br />
– 5pm Saturday<br />
There are so many good reasons to fly with easyJet<br />
and we’re not just talking about the price tag here!<br />
Fly through the airport<br />
★ Check in online up to 60<br />
days before you fl y.<br />
★ Print your own boarding card.<br />
Customers travelling with one<br />
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bypass check-in and go straight<br />
through to security.<br />
★ If you’re travelling with hold<br />
luggage, you can drop your bags<br />
off at our new dedicated Bag Drop<br />
desks at check-in.<br />
No weight limit on<br />
hand baggage<br />
★ Assuming you can fi t it into the<br />
overhead bins without assistance,<br />
178 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
and Sunday<br />
(local times)*<br />
0871 244 2366<br />
0826 103 320<br />
899 234 589<br />
807 070070<br />
01805 029 292<br />
your hand baggage can weigh<br />
as much as you like.<br />
★ The dimensions of your hand<br />
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Hop on an earlier fl ight for<br />
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you can transfer onto an earlier<br />
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★ Also, if you’re fl ying back to<br />
London then you can transfer to<br />
any London airport, be it Gatwick,<br />
Have we made you smile?<br />
At easyJet we strive to<br />
give you low fare travel<br />
but with a whole lot of<br />
care. You are always at the<br />
heart of everything we<br />
do, and giving you a great<br />
experience is what we’re<br />
aiming for.<br />
So if you’ve had<br />
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experience from a member<br />
of our crew, why not let<br />
them know that they’re a<br />
superstar? We could all do<br />
with a pat on the back and<br />
a “well done” every now<br />
0900 000 258<br />
0900 265 8020<br />
0703 203 025<br />
0900 000206<br />
Rest of the world<br />
+44 870 6 000 000<br />
and then. It will help us<br />
make sure we’re doing<br />
the right things to keep<br />
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If you have something<br />
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us at thankyoucrew@<br />
easyJet.com to tell us<br />
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fl ew, the fl ight number<br />
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Stansted or Luton.<br />
★ Just make your way to the<br />
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Catch the next available fl ight<br />
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★ Just make your way to the<br />
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Change your fl ight<br />
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★ With an average age of 3.4<br />
years, our aircraft are amongst the<br />
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Your Conduct Onboard<br />
Please consider your fellow<br />
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Smoking on any easyJet<br />
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As explained in our retail<br />
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Whilst onboard, you can consume<br />
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★ Safety Equipment<br />
In accordance with UK and<br />
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Quick Facts!<br />
★ We have 502<br />
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★ easyJet employs<br />
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Seating capacity<br />
Number of crew<br />
Take off speed<br />
Cruising speed<br />
Range<br />
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aircraft, including the lifejackets.<br />
Any unauthorised actions<br />
may jeopardise the safety of<br />
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are provided only in the event of<br />
passengers landing on water.<br />
★ Sharps Boxes<br />
Hypodermic<br />
needles are<br />
permitted onboard<br />
for medical use and<br />
should always be<br />
Hypodermic<br />
syringes<br />
disposed of in a proper sharps<br />
box. If you need to dispose of a<br />
needle please contact a member<br />
of the cabin crew.<br />
737’s. Our fl eet is one<br />
of the youngest in<br />
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★ easyJet has been<br />
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Traveller Magazine’s<br />
‘Best Low Cost<br />
Airline’ for the 9th<br />
consecutive year,<br />
and Sunday Times<br />
Travel Magazine’s<br />
Boeing 737-700<br />
149<br />
2 pilots and 3 cabin crew<br />
162 mph<br />
530 mph<br />
3800 miles<br />
‘Favourite Budget<br />
Airline’ for 2009.<br />
★ easyJet has won the<br />
award for Best Airline<br />
Website by Travolution,<br />
the UK’s leading online<br />
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The highly prestigious<br />
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‘straightforward and<br />
easy-to-use, this much<br />
Airbus A319<br />
156<br />
2 pilots and 4 cabin crew<br />
150 mph<br />
500 mph<br />
3000 miles<br />
★ Use of Electronic Devices<br />
Electronic devices, including<br />
mobile phones, can not be used<br />
whilst walking to/from the<br />
aircraft and must be switched off<br />
during take off and landing.<br />
However, electronic devices<br />
that you can use during the<br />
fl ight after take off and before<br />
landing include:<br />
★ Bluetooth devices excluding<br />
telephones.<br />
★ Devices that have a ‘fl ight<br />
mode’ or ‘fl ight safe’ setting,<br />
provided the fl ight safe mode<br />
setting is enabled before the<br />
aircraft doors are closed.<br />
★ Laptops including those with<br />
built-in WLAN/WiFi provided<br />
the WLAN/WiFi is turned off.<br />
★ Electronic games, MP3, DVD<br />
and CD players.<br />
If in doubt, please keep devices<br />
switched off for the duration<br />
of the fl ight as they may interfere<br />
with systems<br />
improved website<br />
has managed to<br />
integrate discreet<br />
use of up-selling and<br />
has integrated its<br />
partners in a smart<br />
way, all with some<br />
cutting edge user<br />
experience tools.’<br />
*correct at 29th<br />
September 2009<br />
**correct at 31st<br />
August 2009<br />
Airbus A320<br />
174/180<br />
2 pilots and 4 cabin crew<br />
150 mph<br />
520 mph<br />
3050 miles<br />
PASSENGER | INFO<br />
Airbus A321<br />
210<br />
2 pilots and 5 cabin crew<br />
155 mph<br />
580 mph<br />
3500 miles<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 179
NOTICIAS | ESPANA<br />
El otro lado de la primavera<br />
En primavera, hay destinos que<br />
realmente merecen la pena de ser<br />
visitados ya que embellecen con el<br />
calor que trae el buen tiempo para<br />
esta época.<br />
Una buena opción para esta<br />
primavera es volar a Marruecos<br />
y conocer alguna de sus ciudades<br />
más conocidas como Casablanca,<br />
Marrakech o Tánger. Este país se llena<br />
de turistas en verano, ahórrate los<br />
bullicios y el calor que hace en verano<br />
y recorre los bonitos zocos y medinas<br />
que esconden estos destinos con<br />
mayor tranquilidad y una temperatura<br />
ideal. Además, puedes hacer una<br />
escapada a estos destinos tan<br />
exóticos ya que easyJet ofrece vuelos<br />
desde solo 21,99€ por trayecto<br />
(tasas incluidas).<br />
Si en primavera te entran ganas<br />
de reencontrarte con la naturaleza,<br />
Edimburgo es el destino perfecto<br />
para hacerlo. Los verdes parajes de<br />
las famosas Highlands se llenan de<br />
vida en esta época. Visita el Castillo de<br />
180 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
Edimburgo, situado a lo alto de<br />
una colina que corona la bonita<br />
ciudad y desde donde se pueden<br />
observar unas fantásticas vistas<br />
de ella. Pasea por sus parques ya<br />
fl oridos o visita su gran jardín<br />
botánico. Con easyJet vuela a<br />
Edimburgo desde tan solo 25,99€<br />
por trayecto (todo incluido).<br />
Además, llega el tiempo ideal para<br />
pasear en bicicleta. Por eso, easyJet<br />
te propone viajar en estos meses<br />
para hacer una visita a Ámsterdam.<br />
Coge una bicicleta, tal como hacen<br />
sus ciudadanos, y recorre los<br />
coloridos canales que atraviesan<br />
la ciudad. Uno de los destinos más<br />
bellos de Europa que es digno de<br />
ser visto en primavera. Vuela a<br />
Ámsterdam con easyJet desde<br />
23,99€ (tasas incluidas).<br />
No te lo pienses más y vuela a<br />
descubrir fantásticos destinos en<br />
primavera, la época del año que<br />
hace más bonitas las ciudades<br />
aportándoles un toque de color.<br />
La historia de Lisboa<br />
Date el lujo de hacer una escapada para visitar<br />
destinos encantadores que aún no has podido<br />
conocer y que son de visita obligada.<br />
Date un respiro y desconecta de la rutina volando<br />
a Lisboa, una ciudad con magia situada a lo alto de<br />
siete colinas. Recorre las calles y callejuelas que<br />
surcan sus bonitos barrios repletos de enigmáticos<br />
lugares donde relajarte tomándote un café o uno de<br />
los buenísimos pasteles de Belem. Otra opción para<br />
visitar la ciudad es darte una agradable vuelta en los<br />
típicos tranvías tan característicos de Lisboa.<br />
Como en todas las ciudades antiguas, cada<br />
Viajar por<br />
negocios,<br />
más fácil<br />
que nunca<br />
easyJet sabe que los viajes por<br />
negocios nunca son demasiado<br />
agradables por eso cada día procura<br />
que este tipo de viajes sean más<br />
fáciles y cómodos.<br />
Así, la aerolínea low cost vuela a<br />
centros de negocios tan importantes<br />
como París, Londres, Lisboa, Milán o<br />
Ámsterdam y aterrizando en la mayoría<br />
de las ocasiones en aeropuertos<br />
principales o muy cercanos a las<br />
ciudades con el fi n de que no tengas<br />
que perder tiempo en los trayectos y<br />
todo sea mucho más ágil y sencillo.<br />
Alguno de los muchos servicios<br />
que easyJet ofrece para que viajar<br />
por negocios sea más cómodo son<br />
los siguientes:<br />
Factura online: si sólo llevas una<br />
pieza de equipaje de mano ahorrarás<br />
también mucho tiempo, imprimiendo<br />
tu tarjeta de embarque y dirigiéndote<br />
directamente a la puerta de embarque,<br />
sin necesidad de hacer colas.<br />
Atrasa o adelanta tus vuelos: si tus<br />
reuniones se atrasan o se adelantan,<br />
no te preocupes, easyJet pone a tu<br />
disposición una tarifa plana de 52<br />
euros con la que podrás reservar un<br />
nuevo asiento. En el caso de que se<br />
adelante, podrás coger un avión antes<br />
de lo previsto siempre y cuando<br />
queden plazas libres. Si la reunión se<br />
retrasa, también te ofrecemos plaza<br />
en un nuevo vuelo si te presentas<br />
durante las dos horas posteriores a la<br />
salida de tu vuelo.<br />
Viajar por negocios con easyJet<br />
ya no es ningún problema.<br />
rincón y monumento guarda una apasionante<br />
historia. En Lisboa muchas de estas historias<br />
tienen que ver con el mar, con hombres valientes y<br />
ambiciosos reyes conquistadores que remiten a un<br />
pasado glorioso. Mientras que el barrio de Belem<br />
nos habla de la “Era de los Descubrimientos”, la vieja<br />
Lisboa puede apreciarse en las sinuosas calles de<br />
Alfama que recuerda los tiempos en que los moros<br />
ocuparon la ciudad.<br />
Conoce cada una de las historias que aguarda<br />
esta histórica ciudad volando a Lisboa con easyJet<br />
desde solo 16,99€ por trayecto (tasas incluidas).
Londra è sempre più easy<br />
Finalmente anche l’ultima<br />
neve si è sciolta ed è arrivata la<br />
primavera. Non c’è modo migliore<br />
per accoglierla che una gita ad<br />
Hamstead Heath, uno dei parchi<br />
più grandi del centro di Londra. Se<br />
passeggiare non ti basta potresti<br />
lanciarti in un tuffo in una pond<br />
– lago – dove i veri londoners vanno<br />
a nuotare tutte le mattine alle 6, con<br />
qualsiasi temperatura. Se decidessi<br />
di provare questa ebbrezza, il miglior<br />
modo per svegliarti in tempo è<br />
non andare a dormire affatto. E a<br />
Londra non sarà certo un problema.<br />
Potresti iniziare la serata in uno dei<br />
tanti ristoranti di Fulham Road, di<br />
Earls Court o - se vuoi già essere in<br />
centro - di Charlotte Street. Se ami<br />
la cucina indiana invece la tua via<br />
si chiama Brick Lane, ad Aldgate<br />
East. Per il dopo cena non ti resta<br />
che scegliere tra uno dei tanti club<br />
che affollano Old Street o le stradine<br />
di Soho. Se è ancora troppo presto<br />
per andare a ballare, non temere: in<br />
ogni angolo della città troverai un<br />
pub pronto a servirti tutte le pint che<br />
vorrai. Ma non esagerare: ricordati<br />
che devi arrivare sino all’alba.<br />
Pensi di non riuscirci? Il Fabric ti<br />
easyJet<br />
ti consiglia<br />
1<br />
2<br />
Evita le code in aeroporto!<br />
Fai il check-in online e vola<br />
subito sul tuo volo.<br />
Non preoccuparti del peso<br />
del bagaglio a mano: con<br />
easyJet non ci sono limiti.<br />
farà saltare almeno sino alle 5 del<br />
mattino con la musica elettronica<br />
dell’ultimo momento. A non farti<br />
sentire la stanchezza il giorno dopo<br />
ci penseranno, oltre al bagno nella<br />
pond, i mercatini di Camden Town<br />
e di Portobello Road. O magari una<br />
mostra contemporanea alla Tate<br />
Modern. Ti capiamo se non avrai le<br />
forze per andare a ballare di nuovo.<br />
Durante la giornata cerca di fare un<br />
salto a Leicester Square e prendi<br />
un biglietto scontato per uno dei<br />
tanti musical del West End. Ti farai<br />
senz’altro un bel regalo. E a proposito<br />
di regali, non sappiamo se a marzo<br />
compi gli anni, ma te ne vogliamo<br />
fare comunque uno: il volo. Da Milano<br />
Malpensa da 18,99€, da Roma a<br />
partire da 27,99€, da Napoli da<br />
26,99€ e da Venezia da 30,99€.<br />
L’Italia facile<br />
easyJet ti offre 5 voli al giorno da Roma<br />
Fiumicino a Milano Malpensa a partire da<br />
21.99€, 5 voli al giorno da Napoli a Malpensa da<br />
21,99€, 3 voli tra Catania o Palermo e Malpensa<br />
da 23,99€, 3 voli al giorno tra Palermo e<br />
Fiumicino da 21,99€. Queste sono solo alcune<br />
delle tratte italiane di easyJet. Tutte le altre le<br />
trovi su www.easyjet.com. Vola subito.<br />
NOTIZIE | ITALIA<br />
Il giro d’Italia<br />
si colore di arancio<br />
easyJet ti porta tutti i giorni in giro per<br />
l’Italia, da nord a sud. Nessuna bicicletta<br />
però: preferiamo metterti le ali ai piedi.<br />
Così puoi arrivare alla meta molto prima.<br />
Non ti resta che scegliere da dove partire.<br />
Magari dall’alba alla Playa di Catania, sul<br />
Mediterraneo più bello. La tua passeggiata<br />
sulla spiaggia può proseguire fi no al verde<br />
del Parco dell’Etna. Per l’escursione sul<br />
Vesuvio dovrai attendere solo un poco,<br />
giusto il tempo di arrivare a Napoli. E se<br />
la montagna ti ha stancato, sulla punta di<br />
Capo Posillipo ti aspetta un meraviglioso<br />
panorama. Forse ora non è il momento<br />
migliore per fare un bagno, ma puoi<br />
comunque farti un giro sull’acqua. O meglio,<br />
su una gondola, tra i canali di Venezia. Così<br />
non sentirai freddo, soprattutto se ti farai<br />
scaldare dalla tua dolce metà. E’ proprio<br />
un amore, non si merita un regalo? In Via<br />
Montenapoleone troverai sicuramente<br />
il gioiello giusto, basta cercare il volo<br />
per Milano. Se preferisci qualcosa di più<br />
simbolico, e soprattutto economico, fai<br />
una dichiarazione mettendo la mano nella<br />
Bocca della Verità; sarà low cost anche il<br />
nostro aereo per Roma.<br />
Tutto questo girare ti ha messo fame?<br />
Componi il tuo menu ideale: bucatini<br />
all’amatriciana nella capitale, cotoletta alla<br />
milanese una volta atterrato a Malpensa e<br />
poi via verso Napoli per sfogliatelle e babà.<br />
Per il vino, chiedere alle Cantine del Cugno<br />
Mezzano di Palermo: lì ne hanno 350 tipi.<br />
Il digestivo si potrebbe prendere all’Antico<br />
Caffè, dal 1855 il ritrovo preferito degli<br />
artisti a Cagliari. Purtroppo non solo la<br />
cena è arrivata alla conclusione, ma anche<br />
la giornata. Potresti festeggiarla deliziando<br />
le orecchie con l’opera del Teatro Massimo<br />
di Palermo, ballando all’Alcatraz a Milano<br />
o ovunque desideri. Per aiutarti a<br />
decidere, chiediti dove vorresti svegliarti<br />
domattina. Non possiamo portarti la<br />
colazione a letto, ma quasi: ti portiamo<br />
dove sogni di fare colazione.<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 181
DERNIÈRES INFOS/NEUIGKEITEN | SUISSE/SCHWEIZ<br />
Envolez-vous vers de nouvelles destinations<br />
La ville rose, 4 vols par semaine<br />
Envie de voir la vie en rose ? Avec quatre<br />
vols par semaine à partir de 31.95 CHF<br />
au départ de Genève, accordez-vous une<br />
pause haute en couleurs dans la belle<br />
ville de Toulouse. Jeune, dynamique,<br />
cultivée, sportive, gourmande, branchée,<br />
historique, Toulouse fait chanter son<br />
accent passionnément. Une visite de la<br />
ville et de ses monuments s’impose, et<br />
devant autant de merveilles, vous aurez<br />
Bordeaux – Wein und „Tour de France“!<br />
Charmant schmiegt sich die französische<br />
Weinmetropole an die Garonne, bevor diese etwa<br />
100 Kilometer weiter in den Atlantik mündet.<br />
Bei einem Spaziergang durch Bordeaux mit<br />
seinen prachtvollen Bauten, engen Gassen und<br />
verwinkelten Ecken taucht man unverzüglich ein in<br />
vergangene Epochen. Umgeben von Weinbergen<br />
und den besten Weinlagen, war es der Wein, der<br />
Bordeaux den Reichtum brachte, welcher sich<br />
bis heute in der Altstadt widerspiegelt. 1810<br />
Hektar des großen Stadtgebietes wurde von<br />
der UNESCO zum Weltkulturerbe erklärt. Die<br />
einzigartige, historische Kulisse wird am 23. Juli<br />
erstmals wieder Etappenziel bei der „Tour de<br />
Bienvenue à Pristina, jusqu’ à<br />
2 fois par semaine, idéal pour<br />
retrouver familles et amis!<br />
À partir du 26 juin, easyJet vous propose<br />
au départ de Genève 2 vols hebdomadaires<br />
pour la capitale du Kosovo. Une destination<br />
désormais accessible à partir de 39,95 CHF<br />
l’aller simple que tous les Kosovars résidant<br />
dans la ville au jet d’eau vont apprécier. Pour<br />
retrouver votre famille et vos amis lors des<br />
vacances d’été, c’est donc le moment de<br />
réserver votre vol. Sans vouloir vous donner<br />
182 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
du mal à lâcher votre appareil photo!<br />
Les Abattoirs, le Théâtre National,<br />
les nombreux festivals, les fêtes de<br />
printemps et d’été, les cafés, les restos,<br />
les habitants… tout semble conçu ici pour<br />
vous faire perdre sinon la tête, du moins<br />
le Nord. « On dirait le Sud » comme dit la<br />
chanson, et ça fait du bien !<br />
France“ sein. Der „Sprint Royale von Bordeaux“<br />
über die Zielgerade auf den Quais, entlang<br />
der Garonne und ihren malerischen Fassaden<br />
aus dem 18. Jh. gilt als die zweitschönste und<br />
prestigeträchtigste Ankunft neben dem Finale auf<br />
der Pariser Champs-Elysees. Am Tag darauf wird<br />
auf der vorletzten Etappe ein Einzelzeitfahren von<br />
Bordeaux durch die Weinberge des Médoc nach<br />
Pauillac führen. Für Weinliebhaber verwandelt sich<br />
die Uferpromenade von Bordeaux vom 24.-27.<br />
Juni in ein einziges großes Weinfest. Ob zur „Tour<br />
de France“, Geschäfts- oder Genießerreise – wir<br />
fl iegen Sie bis zu viermal in der Woche ab 39,95<br />
CHF* nach Bordeaux.<br />
de conseils sur les charmes de Pristina que<br />
vous connaissez déjà, soyez sûr de vous<br />
sentir chez vous à peine le pied posé sur le<br />
sol. Retrouvez avec bonheur le mode de vie<br />
animé, les plats typiques et les traditions<br />
chères à votre cœur ! Pizzas, tapas et börek<br />
ne sont jamais aussi bons que lorsqu’ils<br />
sont cuisinés « maison ». Pour un vrai retour<br />
au pays : Pristina, nous voilà !<br />
Check-in online<br />
à Genève<br />
Le check-in online disponible à partir de 60 jours<br />
avant le départ, c’est in ! Le principe est simple :<br />
vous pouvez procéder à votre enregistrement en<br />
ligne comme vous voulez et surtout quand vous<br />
voulez. Soit pour les voyageurs organisés à partir de<br />
60 jours avant le départ, ou pour les plus pressés,<br />
jusqu’à 2 heures avant l’heure prévue de décollage.<br />
Vous imprimez votre carte d’embarquement quand<br />
vous le souhaitez pendant cette période. Et le jour<br />
J, vous vous présentez directement au poste de<br />
sécurité. Et grande nouveauté cette année : le<br />
check-in online est possible même si vous avez des<br />
bagages en soute. Pas belle la vie, avec easyJet ?<br />
Unsere neuen<br />
Strecken von Basel-<br />
Freiburg ab Sommer!<br />
Wir expandieren weiter von Basel-Freiburg!<br />
Ihre Treue und Ihr Vertrauen in unseren Service<br />
ermöglichen es uns, unser Flugangebot weiter<br />
auszubauen und Ihnen ab Sommer gleich fünf<br />
neue Ziele ab Basel-Freiburg anzubieten! Buchen<br />
Sie früh unter easyJet.com und sichern Sie sich die<br />
günstigsten Preise. Fliegen Sie neu mit uns nach<br />
Pristina im Kosovo sowie ins französische Nantes,<br />
in die griechische Hafenstadt Thessaloniki, nach<br />
Ajaccio auf Korsika und Split an der kroatischen<br />
Adria. Flüge gibt es bereits ab 36,95 CHF*!<br />
Tägliche Flüge<br />
von Basel-Freiburg<br />
nach Madrid!<br />
Berühmt ist Madrid für die drei großen<br />
Kunstmuseen: „Prado“, „Thyssen-<br />
Bornmisza“ sowie „Reina Sofi a“! Am<br />
schönsten jedoch ist es, sich in der Stadt, die<br />
niemals schläft, einfach treiben zu lassen und<br />
im Straßencafé oder der Tapasbar am „Plaza<br />
de Santa Ana“ in „Huertas“, dem ehemaligen<br />
Dichterviertel, das Leben zu beobachten.<br />
Ein umfangreiches Kulturprogramm,<br />
Discotheken, Clubs, In-Lokale und Bars<br />
lassen die spanische Hauptstadt rund um die<br />
Uhr pulsieren! Starten Sie täglich mit uns von<br />
Basel-Freiburg nach Madrid ab 35,95 CHF*.<br />
* One-Way inkl. Steuern, Gebühren und Handgepäck, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge.
Griechenland – Sommerurlaub<br />
im Land der Götter!<br />
Göttliche Sonne, blaues Meer und eine<br />
bezaubernde Inselwelt – in Griechenland<br />
wandelt man nicht nur auf Athens Akropolis<br />
auf den Spuren griechischer Götter und<br />
Philosophen! Fliegen Sie mit uns von<br />
Berlin nach Athen sowie von Dortmund<br />
und Berlin nach Thessaloniki ab 31,99<br />
€*! In den griechischen Städten trifft<br />
Tradition auf Moderne. Coole Clubs und<br />
Bars sind in den Ausgehvierteln Athens<br />
und Thessalonikis ebenso zu fi nden, wie<br />
traditionelle Restaurants und Tavernen.<br />
Die gastfreundlichen Griechen feiern gerne<br />
und so wird die Nacht zum Tag! Im bunten<br />
Markttreiben auf dem großen sonntäglichen<br />
Basar im Athener Stadtviertel „Monastiraki“<br />
oder in Thessalonikis Marktviertel „Vatikioti“<br />
werden typische Spezialitäten und allerlei<br />
Kurioses feilgeboten. Entspannung pur fi ndet<br />
man auf den griechischen Inseln in der Ägais.<br />
Ob Inselhüpfen, Segeltörn oder Badeurlaub<br />
– von Athen erreicht man über zahlreiche<br />
Fährverbindungen die traumhaften Inseln<br />
der Kykladen. Von Thessaloniki ist es nur ein<br />
Katzensprung auf die Halbinsel Chalkidiki<br />
mit ihren drei Landzungen Kassandra,<br />
Sithonia und Athos mit der gleichnamigen<br />
Mönchsrepublik. Auf Kreta, der größten und<br />
südlichsten Insel Griechenlands, laden kleine<br />
Dörfer und malerische Orte, wie Sitia oder<br />
Chania, in den Abendstunden zum Verweilen<br />
ein. Neben weitläufi gen Traumstränden hat<br />
Kreta spektakuläre Schluchten und eine teils<br />
sehr gebirgige Landschaft mit faszinierenden<br />
Ausblicken zu bieten! Starten Sie mit uns ab<br />
Berlin nach Kreta und in diesem Sommer<br />
neu nach Korfu ab 31,99 €*! Korfu, die<br />
„Grüne Insel“ im Ionischen Meer, ist geprägt<br />
vom saftigen Grün unzähliger Olivenbäume,<br />
kleinen Fischerorten im Nordosten, weißen<br />
Sandstränden und türkisblauem Wasser.<br />
Buchen Sie unter easyJet.com frühzeitig<br />
Ihre Sommerfl üge zum günstigsten Preis<br />
nach Griechenland und versäumen Sie nicht<br />
den Besuch im traditionellen „Kafenion“.<br />
Bei einem Glas Ouzo oder einem<br />
griechischen Kaffee, dem „kafe elliniko“,<br />
wird hier noch heute mit viel Temperament<br />
und hoher Lautstärke über Gott, Politik und<br />
die Welt philosophiert!<br />
NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCHLAND<br />
Im Frühling<br />
nach London!<br />
Entdecken Sie London zu seiner schönsten<br />
Jahreszeit! Picknick im Hyde Park und in der<br />
Frühlingssonne am Themseufer! Nutzen Sie unsere<br />
ausgezeichneten Tagesrandverbindungen nach<br />
London – morgens hin und abends zurück – für<br />
Ihre Geschäftsreisen nach London, einen Tagestrip<br />
oder länger ins frühlingshafte Greenwich oder ins<br />
königliche Windsor, zum Shopping in der Carnaby<br />
Street oder auf dem Portobello Road Market in<br />
Notting Hill. Mit uns starten Sie von Hamburg,<br />
München, Köln, Berlin, Dortmund und neu von<br />
Düsseldorf nach London ab 22,99 €*. Zusätzlich zu<br />
unserer bereits bestehenden Flugverbindung von<br />
Hamburg nach London Luton fl iegen wir Sie jetzt<br />
auch von Hamburg und Düsseldorf nach London<br />
Gatwick – ideal als Ausgangsort für Reisen in die<br />
südenglischen Grafschaften!<br />
Ankommen, Boarden,<br />
Fliegen – verlieren<br />
Sie keine Zeit!<br />
Mit unseren neuen Service-Angeboten verlieren<br />
Sie keine unnötige Zeit mehr am Flughafen! Ab 60<br />
Tagen im Voraus können Sie bei uns kostenlos mit<br />
Handgepäck und jetzt neu auch mit Aufgabegepäck<br />
online einchecken! Sie buchen Ihre Flüge über<br />
easyJet.com ganz bequem von unterwegs, aus dem<br />
Büro oder von zu Hause, im Anschluss checken<br />
Sie online ein und drucken einfach direkt Ihre<br />
Bordkarten aus. Am Flughafen geben Sie dann<br />
nur noch schnell Ihr Aufgabegepäck ab und gehen<br />
weiter zum Gate. Mit Speedy Boarding, Speedy<br />
Boarding Plus oder als Karteninhaber unserer<br />
easyJetPlus-Card vermeiden Sie zudem langes<br />
Anstehen in der Sicherheitskontrolle in Köln,<br />
Hamburg, Düsseldorf und München. Nehmen<br />
Sie dort einfach die „Fast-Lane“ zur schnelleren<br />
Abfertigung und gehen Sie mit Speedy Boarding<br />
ganz entspannt und als einer der Ersten an Bord!<br />
Roter Blitz und Feuernacht – von Berlin und Dortmund nach Mallorca!<br />
Mit ihrer unglaublichen Vielfalt ist Mallorca die<br />
beliebteste Ferieninsel im Mittelmeer! Sanft<br />
geschwungene Landstriche wechseln sich<br />
ab mit Gebirgszügen und beeindruckenden<br />
Gipfeln, geheimnisvolle Buchten mit weiten<br />
Sandstränden und idyllische Dörfer mit<br />
gewachsenen Städten! In der Altstadt von<br />
Palma gibt es wunderschöne Ecken und Plätze,<br />
Jugendstilbauten und Innenhöfe zu entdecken.<br />
Neugierige können bei einer Besichtigungstour<br />
einen Blick in die kleinen Oasen im Herzen<br />
der repräsentativen Herrenhäuser werfen!<br />
Bei einer Fahrt mit dem „Roten Blitz“, einer<br />
historischen Schmalspurbahn aus dem Jahr<br />
1912, welche Palma mit Sóller verbindet,<br />
lassen sich auf 27 km Länge auf wundervolle<br />
Art die Kulisse des Tramuntana-Gebirges,<br />
Gärten und Orangenhaine entdecken! Eine<br />
willkommene Abwechslung vom Strandurlaub<br />
auch für Kinder. Barocke Stilelemente und<br />
der amerikanische Kolonialismus prägen das<br />
Stadtbild von Sóller. Besonders sehenswert ist<br />
die Pfarrkirche „Sant Bartomeu“ aus dem Jahr<br />
1236, deren modernistische Fassade von einem<br />
Schüler Gaudis 1904 konzipiert wurde. Dem<br />
Schutzheiligen Sant Bartomeu gewidmet, ist<br />
auch eines der wichtigsten Feste der Stadt, die<br />
„Noche de Fuego“ Ende August. Fliegen Sie mit<br />
uns von Berlin und ganz neu ab April von Dortmund<br />
auf die Sonneninsel Mallorca ab 29,99 €*!<br />
* One-Way inkl. Steuern, Gebühren und Handgepäck, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge.<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 183
DERNIERES INFOS | FRANCE<br />
Désormais, partez à Toulouse<br />
de Roissy ou d’Orly<br />
Jusqu’à 7 vols par jour à partir de 37€ aller<br />
simple, taxes incluses. La vie à Toulouse<br />
est passionnante toute l’année… même<br />
pour des Parisiens! Diffi cile de choisir<br />
parmi les dizaines de manifestations<br />
en <strong>2010</strong> (cinéma, musique, théâtre, art<br />
moderne…). Nous avons sélectionné pour<br />
vous RIO LOCO : Festival International<br />
des musiques du monde à Toulouse<br />
(Juin <strong>2010</strong>, cœur de fête du 17 au 21 - 16e<br />
édition). Festif et populaire, ce festival<br />
international des musiques du monde<br />
ouvre chaque année une fenêtre sur la<br />
création artistique d’un pays ou d’une<br />
région du monde avec concerts en plein air,<br />
spectacles jeune public, cinéma de minuit,<br />
arts visuels, gastronomie, artisanat , dans<br />
un parc en bord de Garonne. Cette<br />
année, Rio Loco fera s’exprimer toute<br />
la richesse et la créativité des cultures<br />
d’Afrique du Sud : Mbaquanga, marabi,<br />
Amateurs de sport, rendez-vous à Split!<br />
La Croatie est renommée pour sa grande<br />
densité de sportifs de haut niveau, tant en<br />
sport collectif que dans les sports individuels<br />
comme le tennis. Ce n’est pas un hasard.<br />
Par exemple, si vous aimez les sports<br />
nautiques, saviez-vous que Bol, sur l’île<br />
de Brac offre un des plus beaux spots de<br />
planche à voile sur l’Adriatique ? Partout,<br />
des installations de qualité et la douceur du<br />
climat vous permettront d’allier tourisme<br />
culturel et vacances actives. Des pistes<br />
cyclables sont à votre disposition sur tout<br />
le littoral. Vous pourrez aussi pratiquer des<br />
184 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
musiques zoulous, mais aussi reggae,<br />
hip-hop, électro… Entre tradition et<br />
modernité, l’édition <strong>2010</strong> nous invite à<br />
découvrir les différentes facettes d’Afrique<br />
du Sud, méconnues en France. Les<br />
cultures de la Nation Arc en Ciel prendront<br />
également leurs quartiers d’été dans toute<br />
la ville avec expositions, concerts, lectures,<br />
projections… Nous avons également<br />
retenu le Festival International de Théâtre<br />
d’enfants et de jeunes du 21 au 26 juin<br />
<strong>2010</strong>. Depuis 1987, ce Festival tisse des<br />
liens culturels entre 44 pays et 72 villes<br />
françaises ! Sa réputation en Europe<br />
n’est plus à faire. Il est un point de<br />
repère et un objectif sérieux pour les<br />
jeunes comédiens du monde entier.<br />
Les spectateurs viennent de très loin et<br />
sans cesse plus nombreux pour<br />
découvrir et apprécier les acteurs d’un<br />
théâtre innovant.<br />
sports extrêmes comme le canyoning, le<br />
canoë, le rafting et le free-climbing. Amateurs<br />
d’équitation, vous y trouverez vous aussi<br />
votre compte avec des clubs équestres<br />
de grande qualité et des chevaux de race<br />
par centaines. Pour vous reposer, vous<br />
retrouverez toute la richesse monumentale<br />
et les curiosités de la ville de Split dont la rue<br />
réputée la plus petite au monde surnommée<br />
“Laisse-moi passer”<br />
Nous vous laissons passer vers Split au<br />
départ de Paris - à réserver pendant l’été à<br />
partir de 43€ aller simple, taxes incluses.<br />
Palma de Majorque<br />
- allez au-delà<br />
des apparences!<br />
On ne va pas vous mentir. En été, il y a du monde!<br />
Mais les vrais connaisseurs qui y retournent<br />
volontiers sans pour autant être ni jet setters,<br />
ni attirés par la foule, savent que derrière les<br />
kilomètres d’installations balnéaires il y a des<br />
trésors de beauté et de dépaysement. Certains<br />
paysages au Nord de l’Ile sont absolument protégés<br />
et magnifi ques. Dans les murs même de Palma de<br />
Majorque, la Casco Antiguo ou vieux quartier offre<br />
un ensemble de ruelles extrêmement charmantes.<br />
On peut oublier l’espace d’une promenade les<br />
boîtes de nuit et clubs huppés qui ont fait la<br />
réputation de l’île. La Cathédrale par exemple, face<br />
à la mer, ou le palais de l’Almudaina contenteront<br />
les plus exigeants d’entre vous. Partez cet été du<br />
10 juillet au 26 août à partir de 52€ aller simple,<br />
taxes incluses au départ de Paris CDG.<br />
Nouveau!<br />
Rome au départ de Nice à partir de 28€,<br />
aller simple, taxes incluses<br />
De la French Riviera à la ville éternelle,<br />
pas désagréable la vie!<br />
PHOTOS © ALAMY
Discover the Highlights of Germany<br />
Germany is tipped to be one of the<br />
‘must visit’ destinations for the perfect<br />
weekend getaway in <strong>2010</strong>. The good<br />
news is that we are making it easier<br />
and more affordable to travel to the<br />
country’s key cities with new routes<br />
from London Gatwick to Düsseldorf<br />
and Hamburg. To ensure you enjoy<br />
the best the country has to offer we<br />
have compiled a whirlwind guide to<br />
Germany’s hot spots from historic<br />
culture and stunning attractions to<br />
shopping and delicious food.<br />
DUSSELDORF<br />
Situated on the Rhine River, Düsseldorf<br />
is the place to visit for culture vultures.<br />
Famous for its artistic heritage (Paul<br />
Klee, Joseph Beuys and Gerhard Richter<br />
all studied at the city’s Academy of Fine<br />
Arts), Düsseldorf has plenty on offer.<br />
While wandering around the city,<br />
head to the beautiful Altstadt, also<br />
known as the Old Town District. The<br />
area is renowned for the Schlossturm<br />
(The Düsseldorf Castle Tower) and<br />
St Andreas Church. Just visiting this<br />
area will give you a fl avour of the history<br />
and splendour.<br />
The Rhine Tower is one of the most<br />
famous attractions of the city. Located<br />
south of the river, the views from the<br />
top fl oor of the tower allow you to see<br />
the spectacular panorama of the city.<br />
If you fancy some ‘high dining’, then<br />
return at night when the tower opens<br />
its own restaurant, the Günnewig<br />
Rheinturm. The tower gently rotates,<br />
giving customers a 360° view of the<br />
city and Rhine River.<br />
For shopping addicts, Düsseldorf<br />
is one of the most elegant shopping<br />
metropolises, with stylish boutiques<br />
and arcades located in the<br />
Königsallee district.<br />
easyJet fl ies to Düsseldorf from<br />
London Gatwick. Prices start from<br />
£30.99 single inc. taxes*<br />
HAMBURG<br />
Labelled as Europe’s greenest<br />
city, Hamburg is dominated by the<br />
160-hectare Lake Alster, which is<br />
surrounded by parks, promenades and<br />
quaint waterfront cafés.<br />
The city also has beautiful<br />
architecture, including the St Michaelis<br />
church, Deichstrasse and the Rathaus<br />
marketplace. Many of the key<br />
attractions at night are dramatically lit,<br />
transforming the city into a romantic<br />
haven once the sun has gone down.<br />
Couples can also enjoy a traditional<br />
steamboat ride winding through the<br />
city’s many canals. There are a vast array<br />
of boat tours which meander through the<br />
city to choose from – visit hamburgtourism.de<br />
for more information.<br />
easyJet fl ies to Hamburg from<br />
London Gatwick and London Luton.<br />
Prices start from £27.99 single inc. taxes*<br />
BERLIN<br />
Berlin is brimming with history and<br />
offers the perfect mix of the cultural and<br />
cosmopolitan, allowing visitors to admire<br />
stunning German art at the Schloss<br />
Charlottenburg or shop to their hearts’<br />
content in the Kurfürstendamm area.<br />
The best way to see the city in all its<br />
glory is through the legendary and free<br />
New Berlin Tour – perfect for visitors<br />
on a budget. Led by passionate and<br />
energetic British guides, the tour will<br />
fascinate those who want to learn about<br />
German history. Starting off at the<br />
NEWS | UK<br />
beautiful Brandenburg Gate, you will see<br />
famous places such as the Reichstag,<br />
the Berlin Wall and the Old Royal<br />
Boulevard. Visit newberlintours.com<br />
for more information.<br />
When the sun goes down, Germans<br />
are renowned for their partying and the<br />
city is fast becoming a mecca for<br />
clubbers who come to the German capital<br />
looking for top class DJs and clubs.<br />
easyJet fl ies to Berlin from Bristol,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool, London Gatwick and<br />
London Luton. Prices start from £31.99<br />
single inc. taxes*<br />
MUNICH<br />
In Munich the traditional happily coexists<br />
with the modern, as museums<br />
featuring artistic masterpieces and<br />
extravagant palaces meet with the<br />
world of BMWs and designer boutiques.<br />
For motor enthusiasts, the BMW<br />
Museum brings the BMW brand and<br />
heritage to life by merging art, history<br />
and design in an innovative and<br />
dynamic exhibition.<br />
Germany is famous for its love of<br />
beer, and the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl<br />
is arguably the most famous beer hall<br />
in the world. Located in the city centre,<br />
the restaurant features Bavarian dishes<br />
such as knuckle of pork and Weisswurst<br />
(white sausage) with traditional Bavarian<br />
music playing during regular hours.<br />
easyJet fl ies to Munich from<br />
Edinburgh, London Gatwick, London<br />
Stansted and Manchester. Prices start<br />
from £30.99 single inc. taxes*<br />
Book now at easyJet.com<br />
*Prices correct as at 16 February <strong>2010</strong>. For travel<br />
1 April to 30 October <strong>2010</strong>. Variable charges for hold<br />
baggage apply and some payment methods attract<br />
a handling fee. See website for details.<br />
APRIL 10 | TRAVELLER | 185
Bear<br />
Necessity<br />
Gulliver could win his owner a pair of<br />
free fl ights from his travel photos. The<br />
intrepid bear has a hectic schedule,<br />
as you can see below, so the<br />
competition is on to get snapping.<br />
1 Gulliver takes to the snow in<br />
Switzerland. “Boarding is easy!<br />
You just strap your feet in and go...<br />
until you fall over. Ouch!” Bernese<br />
Oberland, Christine Bruce<br />
2 He might look cute, but this bear<br />
has a surprising secret: “It’s true, I’m<br />
Count Gulliver!” Dracula’s Castle,<br />
Bucharest, Noemí Solis Gutierrez<br />
3 “I’ve never been to the opening<br />
ceremony of the Winter Olympics<br />
before! When can I compete for a<br />
gold medal?” Vancouver, Luis<br />
Lagunes Hernandez<br />
4 “Life’s a beach! What more<br />
could I ask for? I’ve got sun, sea,<br />
sand and Spanish wine!” Tarifa,<br />
Alastair Sanchez<br />
5 “What a view! I don’t get this from<br />
my bedroom window.”<br />
Hong Kong, Charley Surfl eet<br />
6 “Let’s celebrate this special day<br />
in style in the entertainment capital<br />
of the world!” Las Vegas, Yan-kay<br />
Cheung & Adrian Sztogryn<br />
186 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
WIN<br />
FREE<br />
FLIGHTS<br />
1<br />
How to Win!<br />
Send your snaps of Gulliver on his travels to the email below and every two months, an expert panel of bear judges<br />
will pick out a winner. Gulliver costs £10/€12.50 onboard your fl ight. Buy the bear and then create his wardrobe.<br />
Current outfi ts include Pilot and Snowboarder and his latest French outfi t at £6/€7 each. He’s even got his own<br />
Facebook page! Email your pics to gulliverbearonhistravels@easyJet.com Winners will be notifi ed by email<br />
6<br />
5<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4
LUXURY<br />
BARGAIN<br />
EUROPEANS’ FAVOURITES<br />
FAMILY<br />
B&BS AND INNS<br />
ROMANCE<br />
RELAXATION & SPA<br />
TRENDIEST<br />
BEST SERVICE<br />
(Don’t take our word for it. Ask our 15 million members.)<br />
TRAVELLERS’ CHOICE AWARDS <strong>2010</strong> – revealing travellers’<br />
favourite hotels around the world.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
See all the winners<br />
online at TripAdvisor<br />
Andronis Luxury Suites,<br />
Oia, Greece<br />
“It was so beautiful,<br />
I felt like I was<br />
in another world.”<br />
- A TripAdvisor Member<br />
tripadvisor.co.uk | tripadvisor.com.br | tripadvisor.de | tripadvisor.dk<br />
tripadvisor.es | tripadvisor.fr | tripadvisor.ie | tripadvisor.it | tripadvisor.nl<br />
tripadvisor.se | tripadvisor.com.tr<br />
Find TripAdvisor hotel reviews at www.hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Ruzzine Palace Hotel,<br />
Venice, Italy<br />
“A rare gem of a hotel.”<br />
- A TripAdvisor Member
Take the controls!<br />
Enjoy the freedom of your<br />
own handset to watch movies<br />
and play games as you fly *<br />
– available to rent onboard.<br />
Unlimited use of games, movies and TV favourites<br />
<br />
Free pair of headphones for you to keep with<br />
every rental<br />
Please see your Boutique & Bistro for pricing<br />
*Subject to availability. Available on selected routes only, ask your cabin crew for more details.<br />
Movies<br />
WHAT HAPPENS IN VEGAS<br />
Two people discover that they are<br />
married after a night of debauchery<br />
in Vegas. One of them won a huge<br />
jackpot with the other’s quarter<br />
and the pair battle for the money,<br />
falling in love along the way. Starring<br />
Cameron Diaz and Ashton Kutcher.<br />
Rating 12A. Comedy. 96 mins.<br />
LE DIABLE S’HABILLE<br />
EN PRADA<br />
Fraîchement diplômée, Andrea<br />
débarque à New York et décroche le<br />
job de rêve. Mais en tant qu’assistante<br />
de la tyrannique rédactrice en chef<br />
d’un prestigieux magazine de mode,<br />
elle va vite devoir faire son choix<br />
entre sa carrière et sa santé mentale.<br />
Avec Meryl Streep, Anne Hathaway.<br />
Rating PG. Comédie. 109 mins.<br />
INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT<br />
TAKEN<br />
A former government operative<br />
comes out of retirement and uses<br />
his extensive training to rescue his<br />
estranged daughter from a slave<br />
trade operation. Starring Liam<br />
Neeson and Maggie Grace<br />
Rating 15. Action/Drama. 89 mins.<br />
VIVE LIBRE & DURO DE MATAR<br />
Un ataque en la vulnerable<br />
infraestructura de los Estados<br />
Unidos comienza a aislar la nación.<br />
La misteriosa figura detrás del<br />
suceso ha calculado todos los<br />
angulos posibles, excepto por un<br />
policía de la vieja vanguardia.<br />
Bruce Willis es John McClane.<br />
Clasificación 15. Acción/<br />
Suspense. 121 mins<br />
GARFIELD 2: A TAIL<br />
OF TWO KITTIES<br />
America’s favourite feline, Garfield,<br />
follows his owner, Jon to England.<br />
There, he is mistaken for a look-a-like,<br />
regal cat who has inherited a castle.<br />
Garfield savours the royal treatment,<br />
but his reign is in jeopardy. Voice of<br />
Bill Murray and Jennifer Love Hewitt.<br />
Rating U. Family/Comedy. 78 mins.<br />
HERR UND FRAU SMITH<br />
Bei Herr und Frau Smith scheint<br />
es sich um ein typisches Ehepaar<br />
zu handeln, deren Ehe an Schwung<br />
verloren hat. Beide haben jedoch ein<br />
grosses Geheimnis: Beide Ehepartner<br />
sind hochkarätige Auftragsmörder,<br />
deren nächster Auftrag darin besteht,<br />
sich gegenseitig umzubringen.<br />
FSK ab 15. Action/Abenteuer.<br />
110 Min.<br />
FREE<br />
PAIR OF<br />
HEADPHONES<br />
FOR YOU<br />
TO KEEP<br />
WITH EVERY<br />
RENTAL<br />
X-MEN 3 – THE LAST STAND<br />
In the final chapter of the trilogy, a<br />
“cure” for mutancy is found. For the<br />
first time, mutants have a choice:<br />
retain their uniqueness, though<br />
it isolates and alienates them, or<br />
give up their powers and become<br />
human. Starring Hugh Jackman<br />
and Patrick Stewart. Rating 12A.<br />
Action. 104 mins.<br />
Brought to you by<br />
Part of the Travel<br />
Entertainment Group<br />
The “PS” Family logo, “PlayStation” and “PSP”<br />
are registered trademarks of Sony Computer<br />
Entertainment Inc.<br />
All rights reserved. Movies have been edited<br />
for airline use. This rating relates to the<br />
theatrical version of the movie.<br />
Games titles may vary. Subject to availability.
Games<br />
MI HIGH<br />
Children’s drama series about<br />
undercover agents in an inner-city<br />
high school. Kids. Rating U. Live<br />
action. 30 mins.<br />
GAME 1 HOT SHOT GOLF Rated: E10+ GAME 3 BUZZ! MASTER QUIZ Rated: E10+<br />
GAME 2 WIPEOUT PURE Rated: E GAME 4 RACHET AND CLANK Rated: E10+<br />
JOHNNY BRAVO<br />
El que habla como<br />
lo hacía Elvis Presley<br />
y con un ego mas<br />
grande que sus bíceps<br />
Clasificación Todos los Públicos.<br />
Animación para niños. 30 mins<br />
Please note these are US ratings which are generally conservative.<br />
Ratings explained: E = Everyone. E10+ = Everyone 10+.<br />
Hot Shots Golf is a registered trademark of<br />
Sony Computer Entertainment America Inc<br />
Wipeout is a registered trademark of<br />
Sony Computer Entertainment Europe<br />
TV Favourites easyJet’s TV Favourites rating is for guidance only.<br />
MARSUPILAMI<br />
Des fins fonds de la jungle, nous<br />
sommes heureux de vous présenter<br />
le seul et unique Marsupilami!<br />
Enfants. Divertissement. 30 mins.<br />
ED, EDD AND EDDY<br />
Pour se faire de l’argent, les garçons<br />
essaient d’inventer des arnaques.<br />
Enfants. Animation. 30 mins<br />
MUNDO CON ESTILO<br />
La serie muestra lo que se necesita<br />
para hacer el diseño de una nación<br />
único y examina cómo y porqué<br />
evolucionó. Clasificación N.R.M. de<br />
13 años. Estilo de vida. 30 mins<br />
DEVOTION<br />
‘Devotion’ looks at Michael<br />
Jackson’s inspirational life.<br />
Adult. Rating 12A.<br />
Music. 60 mins.<br />
LES MEILLEURS RÉALISATEURS<br />
D’HOLLYWOOD<br />
Un sujet de 30 minutes<br />
pour découvrir les coulisses<br />
de la créativité des meilleurs<br />
réalisateurs d’Hollywood.<br />
Adulte. Divertissement.<br />
30 mins.<br />
DESTINO ARTE<br />
Mostrando algunas de las<br />
figuras creativas mas conocidas<br />
del mundo del arte.<br />
Clasificación N.R.M. de<br />
13 años. Viajes. 30mins<br />
WIE ICH DEINE MUTTERTRAF<br />
Ted´s Aussichten auf seiner Suche<br />
nach Liebe ändern sich, als er ein Hemd<br />
wiederentdeckt, das seit Jahren nicht<br />
mehr das Tageslicht gesehen hat.<br />
FSK ab 12. Comedy. 30 Min.<br />
BUZZ! is a registered trademark of<br />
Sony Computer Entertainment Europe<br />
Ratchet and Clank is a registered trademark<br />
of Sony Computer Entertainment America Inc<br />
HOW TO LOOK<br />
GOOD NAKED<br />
Gok tries to give Leana<br />
back her style and confidence.<br />
Adult. Rating 12A.<br />
Lifestyle. 30 mins.<br />
BEN 10<br />
Quando si abbatterono nel più<br />
grande centro commerciale degli<br />
Stati Uniti, a Ben e Gwen sembrò<br />
di vivere il miglior momento della<br />
loro vita. Bambini. Consigliato:<br />
tutte le età. Animazione.<br />
30 minuti.<br />
POCOYO<br />
Una serie animada en un jardín<br />
infantil acerca de un niño curioso.<br />
Se le invita al telespectador a<br />
interactuar. Niños.<br />
Clasificación Todos<br />
los Públicos. 30 mins.<br />
DIE SIMPSONS<br />
Bart hat Angst, durch einen Intelligenztest<br />
zu fallen. Daraufhin tauscht er seine<br />
Prüfungsunterlagen mit Martin Prince.<br />
FSK ab 12. Zeichentrick. 30 Min.<br />
BONES<br />
A darkly amusing show with<br />
humour, heart and character.<br />
Adult. Rating 12A. Drama.<br />
60 mins.<br />
EXTREMETRAVELLERS<br />
Segui alcuni insoliti turisti<br />
che visitano i posti più belli<br />
per soddisfare la loro passione<br />
per l’estremo. Adulti. Consigliato:<br />
da 12 anni in su. Lifestyle.<br />
30 minuti.<br />
MALCOM EN EL MEDIO<br />
Una comedia poco convencional<br />
acerca de una extraña familia<br />
disfuncional, en el medio de la cual<br />
esta Malcom, un chico intelectualmente<br />
muy avanzado, un genio. Clasificación<br />
N.R.M de 13 años. Comedia. 30 mins.<br />
SHARK<br />
Sebastian Stark (James Woods) ist<br />
ein Strafverteidiger, der mit harten<br />
Bandagen für seine Mandanten kämpft.<br />
FSK ab 12. Drama. 60 Min.
WHERE WE FLY | NETWORK<br />
ABERDEEN London Luton.<br />
AGADIR London Gatwick,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Paris Charles<br />
De Gaulle.<br />
ALICANTE Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast, Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London Gatwick, London Luton,<br />
London Stansted,<br />
Manchester, Newcastle.<br />
ALMERIA London Gatwick.<br />
AMSTERDAM Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Belfast, Bristol,<br />
Doncaster Sheffi eld, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, London Luton,<br />
London Stansted, Madrid,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Prague, Rome<br />
Fiumicino, Split.<br />
ANTALYA London Gatwick.<br />
ASTURIAS Geneva,<br />
London Stansted.<br />
ATHENS Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
London Gatwick, Manchester,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Paris Orly,<br />
Rome Fiumicino.<br />
BARCELONA Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Belfast, Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Bristol,<br />
Doncaster Sheffi eld, Dortmund,<br />
Geneva, Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, London Luton,<br />
London Stansted, Lyon, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Newcastle.<br />
BARI Milan Malpensa.<br />
BASEL-MULHOUSE<br />
Alicante, Amsterdam,<br />
Barcelona, Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bordeaux, Cagliari, Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio), Düsseldorf,<br />
Hamburg, I ˙ stanbul, Lisbon,<br />
London Gatwick, Madrid,<br />
Málaga, Marrakech, Nantes,<br />
Naples, Nice, Olbia, Rome<br />
Fiumicino, Porto, Pristina, Split,<br />
Thessaloniki.<br />
BELFAST Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona, Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Ibiza, Krakow,<br />
Liverpool, London (Gatwick,<br />
Stansted), Málaga, Newcastle,<br />
Majorca, Nice, Paris Charles De<br />
Gaulle, Prague.<br />
BELFAST CITY<br />
London Luton.<br />
BERLIN SCHOENEFELD<br />
Athens, Barcelona,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Bristol,<br />
Brussels, Budapest, Cagliari,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu, Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza, Lisbon,<br />
Liverpool, London (Gatwick,<br />
Luton), Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Milan Malpensa,<br />
Naples, Nice, Olbia, Paris Orly,<br />
Pisa, Rome Ciampino, Split,<br />
Thessaloniki, Venice.<br />
BIARRITZ London Gatwick,<br />
Lyon, Paris Charles De Gaulle.<br />
BILBAO Ibiza,<br />
London Stansted.<br />
BIRMINGHAM<br />
Geneva, Grenoble.<br />
BODRUM Bristol, Liverpool,<br />
London (Gatwick, Stansted).<br />
BORDEAUX Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Bristol, Geneva,<br />
Liverpool, London Gatwick,<br />
Luton, Lyon, Milan Malpensa.<br />
BOURNEMOUTH Geneva.<br />
BRINDISI Geneva,<br />
Milan Malpensa.<br />
BRISTOL Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona, Belfast,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Bodrum,<br />
Bordeaux, Corfu, Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Cyprus (Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
190 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
Edinburgh, Faro, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Grenoble, Ibiza,<br />
Innsbruck, Inverness, Krakow,<br />
La Rochelle, Lisbon, Madeira,<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Marseille, Menorca, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Murcia, Newcastle,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Paris Charles De<br />
Gaulle, Pisa, Prague, Rome<br />
Ciampino, Split, Tenerife,<br />
Toulouse.<br />
BRUSSELS Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Geneva, Lyon,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Nice.<br />
BUCHAREST Madrid,<br />
Milan Malpensa.<br />
BUDAPEST Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Dortmund,<br />
Geneva, London Gatwick,<br />
London Luton, Paris Orly.<br />
CAGLIARI (SARDINIA)<br />
Basel, Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Geneva, London Stansted,<br />
Milan Malpensa.<br />
CASABLANCA Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Milan Malpensa, Paris<br />
Charles De Gaulle.<br />
CATANIA (SICILY)<br />
Milan Malpensa, Paris<br />
Charles De Gaulle.<br />
COLOGNE/BONN<br />
London Gatwick.<br />
COPENHAGEN Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Geneva, London<br />
Gatwick, London Stansted,<br />
Manchester, Milan Malpensa.<br />
CORFU Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bristol, London Gatwick,<br />
Manchester, Milan Malpensa.<br />
CORSICA (AJACCIO)<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Geneva,<br />
London Gatwick, Paris<br />
Charles De Gaulle.<br />
CORSICA (BASTIA)<br />
Bristol, Geneva, London<br />
Gatwick, Lyon, Manchester,<br />
Paris Charles De Gaulle.<br />
CRETE (CHANIA)<br />
London Gatwick.<br />
CRETE (HERAKLION)<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Bristol,<br />
Geneva, London Gatwick,<br />
Manchester, Milan Malpensa,<br />
Rome Fiumicino.<br />
CYPRUS (LARNACA)<br />
London Gatwick.<br />
CYPRUS (PAPHOS)<br />
Bristol, London Gatwick,<br />
London Luton, Manchester.<br />
DALAMAN Bristol, London<br />
Gatwick, London Stansted,<br />
Manchester.<br />
DORTMUND Barcelona,<br />
Budapest, Krakow, London<br />
Luton, Majorca, Thessaloniki.<br />
DONCASTER<br />
SHEFFIELD<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />
Faro, Majorca, Prague.<br />
DUBROVNIK Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Geneva, Liverpool,<br />
London Gatwick, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Paris Orly, Rome<br />
Fiumicino.<br />
DUSSELDORF Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, London Gatwick,<br />
Rome Fiumicino.<br />
EDINBURGH Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Belfast, Bristol,<br />
Geneva, Krakow, Lisbon,<br />
London (Gatwick, Luton,<br />
Stansted), Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Munich, Majorca,<br />
Nice, Paris Charles De Gaulle.<br />
FARO Belfast, Bristol,<br />
Doncaster Sheffi eld, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, London Luton,<br />
London Stansted, Newcastle,<br />
Paris Orly.<br />
FUERTEVENTURA<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
Stansted, Madrid.<br />
GENEVA Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Asturias,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast, Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Birmingham,<br />
Bordeaux, Bournemouth,<br />
Brindisi, Bristol, Brussels,<br />
Budapest, Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio), Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Glasgow, Gran Canaria, Ibiza,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool, London<br />
(Gatwick, Luton, Stansted),<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Manchester, Marrakech,<br />
Nantes, Naples, Newcastle,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Paris Orly, Porto,<br />
Pristina, Rome Ciampino,<br />
Sharm El Sheikh, Split,<br />
Stockholm, Tel Aviv, Toulouse.<br />
GIBRALTAR<br />
London Gatwick.<br />
GLASGOW Alicante, Belfast,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Bristol,<br />
Faro, Geneva, Ibiza, London<br />
(Gatwick, Luton, Stansted),<br />
Málaga, Majorca, Paris Charles<br />
De Gaulle.<br />
GRAN CANARIA<br />
Geneva, London Gatwick.<br />
GRENOBLE<br />
Birmingham, Bristol, London<br />
Gatwick, London Luton.<br />
HAMBURG Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London Gatwick, London Luton.<br />
HELSINKI London<br />
Gatwick, Manchester, Paris<br />
Charles De Gaulle.<br />
HURGHADA<br />
London Gatwick.<br />
IBIZA Belfast, Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Bilbao, Bristol,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (Gatwick, Luton,<br />
Stansted), Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Naples, Newcastle,<br />
Paris Charles De Gaulle, Rome<br />
Fiumicino, Venice.<br />
INNSBRUCK Bristol,<br />
Liverpool, London Gatwick.<br />
INVERNESS Bristol, London<br />
(Gatwick, Luton).<br />
ISLE OF MAN Liverpool.<br />
ISTANBUL Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London Gatwick, London Luton.<br />
JERSEY Liverpool.<br />
KOS London Gatwick.<br />
KRAKOW Belfast, Bristol,<br />
Dortmund, Edinburgh,<br />
Liverpool, London Gatwick,<br />
London Luton, Newcastle, Paris<br />
Charles De Gaulle.<br />
LAMEZIA Milan Malpensa,<br />
Rome Fiumicino.<br />
LANZAROTE Liverpool,<br />
London Gatwick, Madrid.<br />
LA ROCHELLE<br />
Bristol, London Gatwick.<br />
LISBON Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva, Liverpool,<br />
London Gatwick, London Luton,<br />
Lyon, Madeira, Madrid, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Paris Charles de<br />
Gaulle, Rome Fiumicino.<br />
LIVERPOOL Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona, Belfast,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Bodrum,<br />
Bordeaux, Dubrovnik, Faro,<br />
Fuerteventura, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />
Innsbruck, Isle of Man, Jersey,<br />
Krakow, Lanzarote, Lisbon,<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga, Malta,<br />
Menorca, Naples, Nice, Paris<br />
Charles De Gaulle, Rhodes.<br />
LJUBLJANA<br />
London Stansted.<br />
LONDON GATWICK<br />
Agadir, Alicante, Almería,<br />
Amsterdam, Antalya, Athens,<br />
Barcelona, Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Bastia (Corsica), Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Belfast, Biarritz,<br />
Bodrum, Bordeaux, Budapest,<br />
Cologne/Bonn, Copenhagen,<br />
Corfu, Corsica (Ajaccio), Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Crete(Chania), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Cyprus (Larnaca),<br />
Cyprus (Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro, Geneva,<br />
Gibraltar, Glasgow, Gran<br />
Canaria, Grenoble, Hamburg,<br />
Helsinki, Hurghada, Ibiza,<br />
Innsbruck, I ˙ stanbul, Inverness,<br />
Kos, Krakow, Lanzarote, La<br />
Rochelle, Lisbon, Lyon, Madeira,<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga, Malta,<br />
Marrakech, Marseille, Menorca,<br />
Milan Linate, Milan Malpensa,<br />
Montpellier, Munich, Murcia,<br />
Mykonos, Naples, Nice, Olbia,<br />
Palermo, Pisa, Porto, Prague,<br />
Rhodes, Rome Fiumicino,<br />
Salzburg, Santorini, Sharm El<br />
Sheikh, Sofi a, Split, Tenerife,<br />
Thessaloniki, Toulouse, Valencia,<br />
Venice, Vienna, Zante, Zürich.<br />
LONDON LUTON<br />
Aberdeen, Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona, Belfast<br />
City, Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bordeaux, Budapest, Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dortmund,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Grenoble,<br />
Hamburg, Ibiza, Inverness,<br />
˙<br />
Istanbul,<br />
Krakow, Lisbon,<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Menorca,<br />
Montpellier, Nice, Paris Charles<br />
De Gaulle, Pisa, Sharm El<br />
Sheikh, Tel Aviv, Turin, Zürich.<br />
LONDON STANSTED<br />
Alicante, Amsterdam, Asturias,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast, Bilbao,<br />
Bodrum, Cagliari (Sardinia),<br />
Copenhagen, Dalaman,<br />
Dubrovnik, Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Ibiza, Ljubljana, Lyon,<br />
Madeira, Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Munich, Naples, Newcastle,<br />
Nice, Prague, Split, Tallinn.<br />
LYON Barcelona, Biarritz,<br />
Bordeaux, Brussels,<br />
Casablanca, Corsica (Bastia),<br />
Edinburgh, Ibiza, Lisbon,<br />
London Gatwick, London<br />
Stansted, Madrid, Marrakech,<br />
Nantes, Olbia, Porto, Rome<br />
Ciampino, Toulouse, Venice.<br />
MADEIRA Bristol, Lisbon,<br />
London (Gatwick, Stansted).<br />
MADRID Amsterdam, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bristol, Bucharest, Casablanca,<br />
Edinburgh, Fuerteventura,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Lanzarote,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, London Luton, Lyon,<br />
Marrakech, Milan Malpensa,<br />
Paris Charles De Gaulle,<br />
Rome Ciampino, Sofi a,<br />
Tangier, Toulouse.<br />
MAJORCA Belfast,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bristol, Doncaster Sheffi eld,<br />
Dortmund, Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, London Luton, London<br />
Stansted, Milan Malpensa,<br />
Newcastle, Paris Charles de<br />
Gaulle, Rome Fiumicino.<br />
MALAGA Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast, Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bristol, Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Liverpool, London Gatwick,<br />
London Luton, London<br />
Stansted, Manchester, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Newcastle, Paris<br />
Charles de Gaulle.<br />
MALTA Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, Manchester,<br />
Newcastle, Milan Malpensa,<br />
Rome Fiumicino.<br />
MANCHESTER Alicante,<br />
Athens, Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Cyprus (Paphos),<br />
Dalaman, Geneva, Helsinki,<br />
Málaga, Malta, Marrakech,<br />
Menorca, Munich, Sharm El<br />
Sheikh, Sofi a, Tenerife, Zürich.<br />
MARRAKECH Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Geneva, London<br />
Gatwick, Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Manchester, Milan Malpensa,<br />
Paris Charles De Gaulle.<br />
MARSEILLE Bristol,<br />
London Gatwick.<br />
MENORCA Bristol,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, London Luton,<br />
Manchester, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Newcastle.<br />
MILAN LINATE London<br />
Gatwick, Paris Orly.<br />
MILAN MALPENSA<br />
Agadir, Amsterdam,<br />
Athens, Barcelona, Bari,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bordeaux, Brindisi, Bristol,<br />
Bucharest, Brussels, Cagliari,<br />
Casablanca, Catania,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu, Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />
Edinburgh, Ibiza, Lamezia,<br />
Lisbon, London Gatwick,<br />
London Luton, Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta, Marrakech,<br />
Menorca, Mykonos, Naples,<br />
Olbia, Palermo, Paris Charles<br />
De Gaulle, Porto, Prague,<br />
Rhodes, Rome Fiumicino,<br />
Santorini, Sofi a, Split,<br />
Stockholm, Thessaloniki.<br />
MONTPELLIER London<br />
Gatwick, London Luton<br />
MUNICH Edinburgh,<br />
London Gatwick, London<br />
Stansted, Manchester.<br />
MURCIA Bristol, London<br />
Gatwick, Newcastle.<br />
MYKONOS London Gatwick,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Paris Orly,<br />
Rome Fiumicino.<br />
NANTES Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, Lyon.<br />
NAPLES Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Geneva,<br />
Ibiza, Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, London Stansted,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Paris<br />
Orly, Venice.<br />
NEWCASTLE<br />
Alicante, Barcelona,<br />
Belfast, Bristol, Faro,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Krakow,<br />
London Stansted, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta, Menorca,<br />
Murcia, Paris Charles<br />
De Gaulle, Prague,<br />
Rome Ciampino.<br />
NICE Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast, Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bristol, Brussels, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Liverpool, London<br />
(Gatwick, Luton, Stansted),<br />
Paris Charles De Gaulle, Paris<br />
Orly, Rome Fiumicino.<br />
OLBIA Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Bristol,<br />
Geneva, London Gatwick, Lyon,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Paris Orly.<br />
PALERMO London Gatwick,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Paris Orly,<br />
Rome Fiumicino.<br />
PARIS CHARLES DE<br />
GAULLE Agadir, Biarritz,<br />
Belfast, Bristol, Casablanca,<br />
Catania, Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />
Corsica (Bastia), Edinburgh,<br />
Glasgow, Helsinki, Ibiza, Krakow,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool, London<br />
Luton, Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Marrakech, Milan Malpensa,<br />
Newcastle, Nice, Porto, Prague,<br />
Split, Tangier, Toulouse, Venice.<br />
PARIS ORLY Athens,<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Budapest,<br />
Dubrovnik, Faro, Geneva, Milan<br />
Linate, Mykonos, Naples, Nice,<br />
Olbia, Palermo, Pisa, Rome<br />
Ciampino, Toulouse, Venice.<br />
PISA Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Bristol, London Gatwick,<br />
London Luton, Paris Orly.<br />
PORTO Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London Gatwick, Lyon,<br />
Paris Charles De Gaulle,<br />
Milan Malpensa.<br />
PRAGUE Amsterdam,<br />
Belfast, Bristol, Doncaster<br />
Sheffi eld, London Gatwick,<br />
London Stansted, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Newcastle, Paris<br />
Charles de Gaulle.<br />
PRISTINA Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva.<br />
RHODES Liverpool, London<br />
Gatwick, Milan Malpensa.<br />
ROME CIAMPINO<br />
Berlin Schoenefeld, Bristol,<br />
Geneva, Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Newcastle, Paris Orly.<br />
ROME FIUMICINO<br />
Amsterdam, Athens, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf, Ibiza,<br />
Lamezia, Lisbon, London<br />
Gatwick, Majorca, Malta, Milan<br />
Malpensa, Mykonos, Nice,<br />
Palermo, Split, Venice.<br />
SALZBURG<br />
London Gatwick.<br />
SANTORINI London<br />
Gatwick, Milan Malpensa.<br />
SHARM EL SHEIKH<br />
Geneva, London (Gatwick,<br />
Luton), Manchester.<br />
SOFIA Madrid,<br />
Manchester, Milan Malpensa,<br />
London Gatwick.<br />
SPLIT Amsterdam, Berlin<br />
Schoenefeld, Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Bristol, Geneva, London<br />
Gatwick, London Stansted,<br />
Milan Malpensa, Paris Charles<br />
de Gaulle, Rome Fiumicino.<br />
STOCKHOLM<br />
Geneva, Milan Malpensa.<br />
TALLINN London Stansted.<br />
TANGIER Madrid, Paris<br />
Charles De Gaulle.<br />
TEL AVIV Geneva,<br />
London Luton.<br />
TENERIFE Bristol, London<br />
Gatwick, Manchester.<br />
THESSALONIKI Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Dortmund, London Gatwick,<br />
Milan Malpensa.<br />
TOULOUSE Bristol, Geneva,<br />
London Gatwick, Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Paris Charles de Gaulle,<br />
Paris Orly.<br />
TURIN London Luton.<br />
VALENCIA London Gatwick.<br />
VENICE Berlin Schoenefeld,<br />
Ibiza, London Gatwick, Lyon,<br />
Naples, Paris Charles De Gaulle,<br />
Paris Orly, Rome Fiumicino.<br />
VIENNA London Gatwick.<br />
ZANTE London Gatwick.<br />
ZURICH London (Gatwick,<br />
Luton), Manchester.
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CANARY<br />
ISLANDS<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
Tenerife<br />
South<br />
Gran<br />
Canaria<br />
MADEIRA<br />
Madeira (Funchal)<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Agadir<br />
Lisbon<br />
Porto<br />
Marrakech<br />
Faro<br />
PORTUGAL<br />
Gibraltar<br />
Tangier<br />
Casablanca<br />
Asturias<br />
MOROCCO<br />
Belfast City<br />
Edinburgh<br />
Glasgow<br />
Newcastle<br />
DENMARK<br />
Belfast Isle<br />
of Man Doncaster<br />
Liverpool<br />
Sheffi eld<br />
IRELAND<br />
Manchester<br />
NEW<br />
NEW<br />
Bilbao<br />
Madrid<br />
Málaga<br />
SPAIN<br />
Bristol Stansted<br />
UK<br />
Luton<br />
Gatwick<br />
Jersey<br />
Montpellier<br />
BELGIUM<br />
NETHERLANDS<br />
SWE<br />
Berlin<br />
Dortmund<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
GERMANY<br />
Paris CDG<br />
Paris Orly<br />
Munich<br />
Nantes<br />
Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg<br />
La Rochelle<br />
FRANCE<br />
Geneva<br />
Zürich<br />
SWITZERLAND<br />
Murcia<br />
Almería<br />
Valencia<br />
Alicante<br />
Birmingham<br />
Bournemouth<br />
Biarritz<br />
Bordeaux<br />
Barcelona<br />
Inverness<br />
Aberdeen<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Brussels Int<br />
Lyon<br />
Grenoble<br />
Toulouse<br />
Marseille<br />
Menorca<br />
Majorca<br />
Ibiza<br />
Nice<br />
Bastia<br />
Ajaccio<br />
Cologne/Bonn<br />
Olbia<br />
Cagliari<br />
Hamburg<br />
Milan MXP<br />
Milan LIN Venice<br />
Turin ITALY<br />
Pisa<br />
Rome<br />
Ciampino<br />
S<br />
Copen<br />
CZ<br />
In
tockholm<br />
DEN<br />
hagen<br />
Prague<br />
ECH REPUBLIC<br />
Vienna<br />
Salzburg<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
nsbruck<br />
SLOVENIA<br />
Palermo<br />
Malta<br />
CROATIA<br />
Split<br />
Rome<br />
Fiumicino<br />
Ljubljana<br />
Naples<br />
Lamezia<br />
POLAND<br />
Catania<br />
Krakow<br />
HUNGARY<br />
FINLAND<br />
Budapest<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
Bari<br />
Brindisi<br />
Helsinki<br />
ESTONIA<br />
Corfu<br />
Tallinn<br />
KOSOVO<br />
Zante<br />
NEW<br />
NEW<br />
Pristina<br />
ROMANIA<br />
BULGARIA<br />
Sofi a<br />
Thessaloniki<br />
GREECE<br />
Athens<br />
Bucharest<br />
Mykonos<br />
Kos NEW<br />
Santorini<br />
Heraklion<br />
Chania<br />
NEW<br />
TURKEY<br />
Istanbul<br />
Bodrum<br />
Dalaman<br />
Rhodes<br />
NEW<br />
Antalya<br />
EGYPT<br />
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ECO | CREDENTIALS<br />
As part of our<br />
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we are proud<br />
to announce…<br />
The Copenhagen<br />
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Change is a progressive<br />
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194 | TRAVELLER | APRIL 10<br />
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of the Climate Change<br />
Conference. It has already<br />
secured the support of<br />
over 500 companies,<br />
ranging from the world’s<br />
Did You Know?<br />
*based on the same aircraft type fl ying the same route<br />
**164g of CO 2 for every kilometre (car) and 95.7g of CO 2 for every passenger kilometre (fl ight)<br />
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known brands, to small and<br />
medium-sized enterprises.<br />
You can fi nd out more<br />
about the Communiqué at<br />
copenhagencommunique.com<br />
Our aircraft emit 22% less CO 2 per passenger kilometre than<br />
a traditional airline*<br />
Passengers produce less CO 2 per kilometre than the average car**<br />
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