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TRAVELLER<br />

Making<br />

Waves<br />

All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />

in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />

offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />

Achtung Ac Acht ht htun un ung g Ba Baby Baby! by by!<br />

An iins<br />

insider’s nsid id ider er er’s ’s guide g ggui<br />

ui uide de to tto<br />

th the<br />

e best be best st of f Be Berl Berlin rlin in<br />

From Fr F om A(rancini) A(r (r (ran an a ci cini ni) ) to<br />

Z(apiekanka)<br />

Z( Z ap apie ieka kank nka) a)<br />

A glossary gl g os ossa sary ry of<br />

th the<br />

e<br />

network’s ne n tw twor or o k’ k’s s most mo most st<br />

delicious de d li l ci ciou ou o s st stre street re reet et foo f ffood<br />

oo ood<br />

Tomb To Tomb mb m Rai RRaiders<br />

ai aide de d rs r<br />

Indulge In I du dulg lg lge e your yo y ur u i iinn<br />

inner nn nner er e<br />

In Indi Indiana di d an ana a Jo Jone Jones ne nes s in t tthe<br />

the he<br />

ancient anc a nc ncie ie ient nt n ruins r rrui<br />

ui u ns of o f Cyprus Cy C pr prus us u<br />

MAY M <strong>2012</strong><br />

2<br />

*YOUR *YO YOUR FREE REEE COPY CCOPY<br />

COP COPY<br />

TO TTO<br />

TAKE AK KE E AWAY AW WITH TH THY YOU Y YYOU<br />

YYOU<br />

YOU


TRAVELLER<br />

Making<br />

Waves<br />

All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />

in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />

offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />

Achtung Ac Acht ht htun un ung g Ba Baby Baby! by by!<br />

An iins<br />

insider’s nsid id ider er er’s ’s guide g ggui<br />

ui uide de to tto<br />

th the<br />

e best be best st of f Be Berl Berlin rlin in<br />

From Fr F om A(rancini) A(r (r (ran an a ci cini ni) ) to<br />

Z(apiekanka)<br />

Z( Z ap apie ieka kank nka) a)<br />

A glossary gl g os ossa sary ry of<br />

th the<br />

e<br />

network’s ne n tw twor or o k’ k’s s most mo most st<br />

delicious de d li l ci ciou ou o s st stre street re reet et foo f ffood<br />

oo ood<br />

Tomb To Tomb mb m Rai RRaiders<br />

ai aide de d rs r<br />

Indulge In I du dulg lg lge e your yo y ur u i iinn<br />

inner nn nner er e<br />

In Indi Indiana di d an ana a Jo Jone Jones ne nes s in t tthe<br />

the he<br />

ancient anc a nc ncie ie ient nt n ruins r rrui<br />

ui u ns of o f Cyprus Cy C pr prus us u<br />

MAY M <strong>2012</strong><br />

2<br />

*YOUR *YO YOUR FREE REEE COPY CCOPY<br />

COP COPY<br />

TO TTO<br />

TAKE AK KE E AWAY AW WITH TH THY YOU Y YYOU<br />

YYOU<br />

YOU


MAY <strong>2012</strong> | ISSUE 125<br />

<br />

Our spring and<br />

summer Boutique<br />

& Bistro is packed<br />

full of gifts and<br />

essentials. We have<br />

tasty snacks and<br />

drinks, plus save<br />

money with one of<br />

our great-value menu<br />

deals on page 49.<br />

For gents, we have<br />

cool gadgets and<br />

gifts, including a<br />

waterproof Aqua<br />

Phone Case (page<br />

26), stylish stainlesssteel<br />

Skagen watch<br />

(page 24) or the<br />

Ralph Lauren Big<br />

Pony Collection of<br />

fragrances (page 12).<br />

Ladies will love<br />

Flowerbomb La Vie<br />

en Rose, a fresh<br />

scent for summer<br />

(page 5) and the<br />

Bourjois Summer<br />

Lovin’ Make-up Kit,<br />

containing four<br />

make-up bag<br />

essentials (page 20).<br />

Accessorise your<br />

look with our funky<br />

Disaster Design<br />

purses (page 21).<br />

For kids of all ages,<br />

Gulliver and Lily are<br />

back and have gone<br />

sports mad (page<br />

31). Plus enjoy some<br />

family fun with Rory’s<br />

Story Cubes (page<br />

30). And when they<br />

are feeling hungry,<br />

we have a new kids’<br />

snack box with<br />

activities (page 40).<br />

FEATURES<br />

46 Insider’s Guide<br />

to Berlin<br />

From the best clubs<br />

to the hottest hotels,<br />

fi ve local experts<br />

reveal their city picks<br />

53 A-Z of<br />

Street Food<br />

Join us for a<br />

gastronomic tour<br />

of our network,<br />

sourcing the best<br />

quick, cheap eats<br />

60 The New Wave<br />

The surf is defi nitely<br />

up in Ericeira, Europe’s<br />

fi rst designated World<br />

Surfi ng Reserve<br />

68 High and Mighty<br />

Few can match the<br />

equestrian feats of the<br />

French riding school<br />

Cadre Noir. We visited<br />

for a lesson<br />

72 Tomb Raiders<br />

Cyprus isn’t just sun,<br />

sea and sand. We<br />

channel Indiana Jones<br />

to explore 10,000<br />

years of island history<br />

82 A Diff erent View<br />

How Majorca is<br />

reclaiming its ritzy<br />

crown as an upscale<br />

holiday destination<br />

88 Artists’ Retreat<br />

Visit Calcata, a hilltop<br />

village near Rome,<br />

home to a uniquely<br />

cultural community<br />

60<br />

COVER IMAGE ELIZABETH GIBSON | PHOTOS OLIVER PILCHER, GETTY, SCOTT CHAMBERS contents<br />

72<br />

TRAVELLER | 3


MAY <strong>2012</strong> | ISSUE 125<br />

contents<br />

20<br />

THE BUZZ<br />

8 A hip-hop dance tour hits the UK<br />

10 Gossip from across the network<br />

13 Manx beaches | Amsterdam’s new tattoo<br />

museum | Be a Parisian chef<br />

14 Queen spotting in London | Walking tours<br />

16 We meet former world 100m champion<br />

Maurice Greene<br />

19 Art at festivals, fairs and on the streets<br />

20 Copenhagen’s café culture<br />

22 London’s best stays for the <strong>2012</strong> Games<br />

25 Bilbao baby jumping<br />

26 Glasgow street style<br />

28 Cycling in Provence| Colditz hotel |<br />

photo competition<br />

30 Walks around Jersey<br />

32 Three of the best foodie adventures<br />

35 Book ahead<br />

36 Club season highlights in Ibiza<br />

40 Hotel news and reviews<br />

42 Restaurant reviews<br />

98 Route map<br />

100 Destination guides<br />

LAST WORD<br />

183 Meet the crew<br />

184 Passenger info<br />

186 Espana<br />

187 Italia<br />

188 Suisse/<br />

Schweiz<br />

4 | TRAVELLER<br />

189 Deutschland<br />

190 France<br />

191 UK<br />

193 Business news<br />

194 Baker Alex<br />

Croquet on Lille<br />

25<br />

14<br />

EDITORIAL & ART<br />

Editor Simon Kurs<br />

Deputy Editor Sarah Warwick<br />

Art Director Blue Buxton<br />

Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />

Editorial Intern Hettie Maylam<br />

Picture Editor Julia Holmes<br />

Picture Researcher Megan Eales<br />

Fashion Director Nino Bauti<br />

Sub-Editor Liz Granirer<br />

Destinations Sub-Editor Alex Gilly<br />

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />

easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />

(General contact for magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />

Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

Sales Director Mark Duke<br />

Associate Publisher Kevin Smith<br />

European Key Account Manager<br />

Darren Paternoster<br />

European Sales Team Tara Brady, Phil Castle,<br />

Manuela Festa, Nishan Gumani,<br />

Liam Best, Adie Moff att<br />

Sales recruitment<br />

joinus@ink-global.com<br />

INK<br />

CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />

Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />

Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />

Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />

easyJet TRAVELLER is published<br />

on behalf of easyJet by Ink<br />

141–143 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JE<br />

Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />

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© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved.<br />

No part of this publication <strong>may</strong> be reproduced in whole or part<br />

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All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions<br />

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and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content.<br />

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its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.<br />

THIS MAGAZINE<br />

IS PRINTED ON 100%<br />

RECYCLED PAPER


TAX FREE<br />

mcarthurglen.com


BIENVENIDO | BIENVENUE | BENVENUTO | WILLKOMMEN<br />

WELCOME<br />

HELLO AND WELCOME ON BOARD.<br />

At the time of going to print we have just<br />

gone live with our allocated seating trial.<br />

We’ve been keen to alleviate the stress you<br />

tell us you can sometimes experience at<br />

boarding so we’re looking forward to<br />

seeing the results of the trial. If you tell us<br />

you are happy with it, and we are able to<br />

maintain our industry leading on-time<br />

performance, we will roll this out across<br />

our network.<br />

Just in time for summer, we’re also<br />

excited to announce fl ights to the Greek<br />

island of Kefalonia from both London<br />

Hola y bienvenido a<br />

bordo. Esperamos que<br />

esté disfrutando del <strong>2012</strong><br />

hasta el momento y que desee<br />

que llegue el verano tanto como<br />

nosotros. Nos complace anunciarle<br />

nuestros nuevos destinos de verano,<br />

justo a tiempo para el periodo de<br />

vacaciones. Este año easyJet le lleva<br />

con sus nuevas rutas desde Madrid<br />

a Dubrovnik, Creta y Cerdeña, tres<br />

destinos idílicos en los que poder<br />

relajarse. Desconectar de la rutina<br />

será muy fácil, disfrutando de sus<br />

fabulosas playas de aguas cristalinas.<br />

Además, estas rutas ya están<br />

a la venta para que pueda planifi car<br />

con antelación esas tan esperadas<br />

vacaciones de verano a precios<br />

asequibles.<br />

Además, este mes estrenamos<br />

nuestra nueva ruta nacional Madrid-<br />

La Coruña. También a principios de<br />

año lanzamos la nueva conexión<br />

Madrid-Bilbao. Ambas rutas ofrecen<br />

todavía más opciones a los clientes<br />

que viajan por ocio o por trabajo, y<br />

respaldan nuestro compromiso de<br />

conectar viajeros por toda Europa.<br />

Disfrute de su vuelo.<br />

If you have any thoughts<br />

or suggestions, email us at<br />

carolyn@easyJet.com<br />

Gatwick and Milan. Renowned for its<br />

beautiful beaches and wonderful food (not<br />

to mention the fact it’s the setting for<br />

Louis de Bernières best-selling book,<br />

Captain Corelli’s Mandolin) we’re sure you<br />

will love this idyllic Mediterranean location.<br />

Finally, we’re really pleased with recent<br />

customer satisfaction scores, which were<br />

at 87% last month – the highest we’ve<br />

seen so far this year.<br />

We’re committed to making travel<br />

easier so please let us know your views on<br />

how we are doing.<br />

Enjoy your fl ight.<br />

Salve e un caloroso benvenuto<br />

a bordo. Spero che il<br />

<strong>2012</strong> si stia rivelando per<br />

lei un anno fantastico e che, come<br />

noi, non veda l’ora che l’estate arrivi.<br />

Siamo lieti di annunciarle che, giusto<br />

in tempo per le vacanze, abbiamo<br />

una nuova, entusiasmante destinazione:<br />

l’isola greca di Cefalonia,<br />

raggiungibile da Milano e da Londra<br />

Gatwick. Famosa per le sue bellissime<br />

spiagge e la deliziosa cucina<br />

(oltre che per essere lo scenario del<br />

best-seller di Louis de Bernières, “Il<br />

mandolino del Capitano Corelli”),<br />

sarà sicuramente il posto perfetto<br />

per una pausa idilliaca nel cuore del<br />

Mediterraneo.<br />

Inoltre, stiamo per lanciare anche<br />

due nuove rotte interne: già da<br />

questo mese può volare da Madrid<br />

a La Coruña, mentre da giugno<br />

uniremo Milano ad Alghero. Con<br />

queste nuove tratte vogliamo off rire<br />

ancora più scelta a chi viaggia per<br />

aff ari o per piacere e confermare<br />

il nostro impegno a collegare tutta<br />

l’Europa.<br />

Buon volo.<br />

Turn to pages 181–192 for<br />

our latest news. For any<br />

queries or further information,<br />

visit easyJet.com<br />

Bonjour et bienvenue à<br />

bord. J’espère que l’année<br />

<strong>2012</strong> a bien commencé<br />

et que vous attendez l’été avec la<br />

même impatience que nous.<br />

Nous sommes ravis de vous<br />

annoncer de nouvelles destinations<br />

pour cette période estivale.<br />

Vous pourrez désormais vous<br />

envoler depuis Paris vers : Cagliari<br />

en Sardaigne, l’île grecque Rhodes,<br />

Lamezia en Italie (région de la<br />

Calabre) ou Héraklion en Crête.<br />

Depuis Lyon, nous vous proposons<br />

cet été: Ajaccio en Corse ou<br />

Palerme en Sicile.<br />

Nous inaugurons également 3<br />

nouvelles lignes estivales depuis<br />

Genève: Athènes pour un séjour<br />

culturel, Catane en Sicile ou Venise<br />

pour une escapade romantique.<br />

Toutes ces nouvelles lignes nous<br />

permettent d’off rir aux passagers<br />

en voyage loisirs ou aff aires un plus<br />

grand choix et de confi rmer notre<br />

engagement à répondre aux besoins<br />

de nos voyageurs européens.<br />

Bon vol !<br />

Received great service<br />

on board? Please tell us!<br />

Turn to page 182 to share<br />

the Orange Spirit!<br />

Carolyn McCall<br />

easyJet Chief Executive<br />

Hallo und willkommen<br />

an Bord. Ich hoff e, dass<br />

<strong>2012</strong> bisher ein gutes Jahr<br />

für Sie ist und Sie den Sommer<br />

genauso herbeisehnen wie wir. Wir<br />

freuen uns, Ihnen pünktlich zur<br />

Urlaubssaison vier neue spannende<br />

Ziele ab Deutschland und der<br />

Schweiz präsentieren zu können. Ab<br />

Ende Juni fl iegen wir neu ab Berlin<br />

Brandenburg auf die griechischen<br />

Inseln Rhodos und Mykonos. Mit<br />

ihren wunderschönen Stränden<br />

und der hervorragenden Küche sind<br />

beide Inseln ganz sicher perfekt für<br />

eine mediterrane Pause. Und ab<br />

Basel-Freiburg haben wir in diesem<br />

Sommer neu für Sie Faro und Ibiza<br />

im Programm!<br />

Zudem gehen in den nächsten<br />

beiden Monaten zwei neue Inlandsstrecken<br />

in Spanien und Italien an<br />

den Start: Madrid - La Coruña und<br />

Mailand – Alghero (Sardinien).<br />

Beide Strecken ergänzen unser<br />

Angebot für Privat- und Geschäftsreisende<br />

und unterstützen unser<br />

Ziel, Reisende quer durch Europa zu<br />

vernetzen.<br />

Genießen Sie Ihren Flug.<br />

NEW<br />

Download our free App<br />

for iPhone & Android –<br />

wherever you’re going,<br />

take us with you<br />

TRAVELLER | 7


60 69<br />

INSPIRING<br />

IDEAS FOR<br />

YOUR DIARY<br />

THE<br />

BUZZ<br />

Breakin’ Convention<br />

UK (VARIOUS)<br />

Move to the groove of a diff erent beat<br />

with some of the best b-boys and<br />

b-girls on this year’s Breakin’<br />

Convention national tour. Busting onto<br />

London’s Saddler’s Wells’ stage on 5-7<br />

May before heading off , the tour will<br />

feature great performances from more<br />

than 40 of the world’s very best<br />

hip-hop dance acts, including the<br />

current world champions, French<br />

wonderkids Vagabond Crew, and artists<br />

from Korea, Japan and Ghana. Plus, you<br />

can learn to pop, lock, hype and<br />

boogaloo at freestyle workshops with<br />

live hip-hop DJs. Catch all the action in<br />

London, Birmingham (14-15 May),<br />

Edinburgh (18-19 May), Inverness (22<br />

May) and Bristol (31 May). Tickets start<br />

from £15. breakinconvention.com<br />

8 | TRAVELLER<br />

One of Breakin’<br />

Convention’s<br />

dancers photographed<br />

in the foyer at<br />

Saddler’s Wells


WORDS STEPHANIE YIP | PHOTO © BELINDA LAWLEY


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

GOSSIP FROM THE NETWORK<br />

WORD OF MOUTH<br />

Tunnels Come<br />

Out On Top<br />

EDINBURGH<br />

Ever heard of Gilmerton Cove? We<br />

thought not. This mysterious network<br />

of tunnels in the Scottish capital –<br />

rumoured to once have played host to<br />

crusading knights – is only open to small<br />

groups of visitors with advance booking.<br />

Word is getting out though: it’s been<br />

voted the city’s best attraction on the<br />

Trip Advisor website. Visit now, before it’s<br />

overrun. gilmertoncove.org.uk<br />

NETWORK IN NUMBERS<br />

€25<br />

MADRID<br />

Cost of hiring an<br />

iPad for a day’s<br />

sightseeing,<br />

thanks to<br />

PadInTheCity, a<br />

scheme unique to<br />

the Iberian capital.<br />

The tablets come<br />

stocked with apps,<br />

like Metro Madrid<br />

and iTranslate,<br />

but don’t lose it:<br />

there’s a hefty<br />

€390 deposit.<br />

padinthecity.com<br />

10 | TRAVELLER<br />

166KG<br />

JERSEY<br />

Weight of an<br />

unexploded<br />

German Roll<br />

Mine, left over<br />

from World War<br />

II, that was found<br />

recently by staff<br />

at Gorey Castle<br />

in Jersey. The<br />

bomb was safely<br />

detonated with<br />

no loss of life or<br />

injury, leaving<br />

a 15ft-wide hole<br />

in the sand.<br />

€11<br />

PARIS<br />

Fine that will be<br />

levied on those<br />

who fail to carry<br />

a breathalyser<br />

kit when driving<br />

through France<br />

after new<br />

legislation is<br />

introduced in<br />

July this year. The<br />

tests, which cost<br />

€2-€5, will be sold<br />

at ferry and tunnel<br />

terminals, and at<br />

French airports.<br />

£2.2M<br />

LIVERPOOL<br />

Cost of turning<br />

a Liverpudlian<br />

landfi ll site into<br />

a new public<br />

park. The former<br />

Bromborough tip<br />

on the Wirral will<br />

be reclaimed and,<br />

over three years,<br />

turned into a public<br />

space named Port<br />

Sunlight River Park,<br />

complete with<br />

nature walks and<br />

interactive art.<br />

A Lost<br />

Leonardo?<br />

PISA<br />

Scientists believe they <strong>may</strong> have found a lost Leonardo da Vinci<br />

painting. Tipped off by a cryptic message reading cerca trova<br />

(seek and you shall fi nd) on a Giorgio Vasari mural in Florence’s<br />

Palazzo Vecchio, art diagnostics expert Maurizio Seracini has<br />

been trying to fi nd out if The Battle of Anghiari (which da Vinci<br />

painted in 1502) is on a hidden wall behind the mural. “The<br />

evidence suggests we are searching in the right place,” he says.


WORDS AMY DENNIS, SARAH WARWICK Up<br />

on the Roof<br />

COPENHAGEN Beer lovers alert! An architectural<br />

competition to develop Carlsberg’s Vesterbro<br />

brewhouse has been won by a pitch that promises to<br />

add a shiny new rooftop terrace to the factory. Already<br />

home to a museum, the new development will feature<br />

hot-spring spas, restaurants and a nightclub, all with<br />

views out over the city. Possibly the best terrace<br />

hang-out in the world? carlsberggroup.com


WORDS TANIA AHSAN, CATHERINE COOPER | PHOTO UN JOUR, UN CHEF<br />

You’ll get a good<br />

view of the beach<br />

at Laxey from the<br />

electric tram<br />

4<br />

OF THE<br />

BEST<br />

Manx Seaside Spots<br />

ISLE OF MAN<br />

On 26 May, the world-famous Tourist<br />

Trophy (TT) motorbike racers roar onto<br />

the island. Escape the <strong>may</strong>hem with<br />

lesser known, beach-based delights –<br />

these are just four of the highlights along<br />

almost 160km of coastline.<br />

RAMSEY HARBOUR Come and swoon<br />

at all the pricey yachts. The Manx Sailing<br />

and Cruising Club is headquartered here,<br />

and its Round the Island race on 6 May<br />

provides plenty of spectacle.<br />

COASTAL RIDES Off ering some of the<br />

best coastal views in Europe, the Manx<br />

Electric Railway tram from Laxey to<br />

Prospective<br />

chefs outside the<br />

Marais restaurant<br />

Douglas is a glorious 45-minute coast<br />

ride. Let the sea air blow off the cobwebs.<br />

NIARBYL COVE Looking for rugged,<br />

rocky beauty? Get down to the remotest<br />

part of the island, where Niarbyl Cove<br />

has quaint fi shermen’s cottages and<br />

cliff -path walks.<br />

BASKING SHARKS These sea monsters<br />

are an endangered species and, at up to<br />

10m in length, the second largest fi sh in<br />

the world. From mid-May to mid-August,<br />

when the sea is calm, Port Erin and Peel<br />

Breakwater are both ideal viewing spots<br />

to see them.<br />

gov.im/tourism<br />

Chef du Jour<br />

PARIS<br />

The chance to run a restaurant in<br />

Paris sounds like every foodie’s<br />

dream – or a particularly tortuous<br />

round of Masterchef – but now<br />

this fantasy has become reality.<br />

Un Jour, un Chef allows wannabe<br />

Alain Ducasses to be head chef<br />

at a Marais restaurant for one<br />

night only. Concept creator<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

The museum’s gift shop<br />

is home to unusual<br />

items for tattoo lovers<br />

The (Body)<br />

Art Gallery<br />

AMSTERDAM<br />

In a city well known for its major<br />

museums, such as the Rijksmuseum<br />

and the Van Gogh Museum, the<br />

latest addition to grace Amsterdam’s<br />

cultural scene is somewhat more<br />

alternative. The Amsterdam Tattoo<br />

Museum, brainchild of tattoo legend<br />

Henk “Hanky Panky” Schiff macher,<br />

is believed to be the largest in the<br />

world and home to around 40,000<br />

exhibits relating to all things ink.<br />

The ‘Tatican’, as it’s known, includes<br />

tattoos from all cultures, historic<br />

periods and walks of life; tattoo<br />

machines and even human fl esh<br />

(tattooed, of course). And for those<br />

who want a permanent souvenir,<br />

there’s even an on-site tattoo studio.<br />

amsterdamtattoomuseum.com<br />

Ludovic Dalavaud is on hand to<br />

off er assistance, but other than<br />

that, the non-paying volunteers<br />

choose ingredients, menu design<br />

and cooking process. It’s great for<br />

the city’s neophiles: every night<br />

provides diners with a totally<br />

diff erent experience.<br />

A three-course dinner costs €30<br />

a head. 1jour1chef.com<br />

TRAVELLER | 13


WORDS CHRIS BEANLAND, STEPHANIE YIP, AMY DENNIS | ILLUSTRATIONS © SCOTT CHAMBERS<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

What’s going on?<br />

STAR TOURS<br />

UNTIL 25 OCTOBER<br />

The Cézanne Sites<br />

MARSEILLE Aix-en-Provence –<br />

less than 30 minutes from Marseille<br />

– was once the hometown of postimpressionist<br />

Paul Cézanne. Now<br />

weekly tours (10am on Thursdays)<br />

here allow visitors to walk in his<br />

footsteps to see the studio (above)<br />

of the man whom Picasso said was<br />

“the father of us all”. €8 per person;<br />

aixenprovencetourism.com.<br />

NEW LAUNCH<br />

Marvin Gaye’s app<br />

BRUSSELS The city of Ostend, a<br />

75-minute drive west of Brussels, is<br />

famous for two things: strong winds<br />

and Marvin Gaye. The tragic soul<br />

singer braved the breezes to live<br />

here in 1981 and now you can follow<br />

his footsteps around the Belgian<br />

seaside town by downloading an app<br />

from the tourist offi ce website. €5;<br />

visitoostende.be<br />

SUMMER <strong>2012</strong><br />

Christopher<br />

Isherwood Tour<br />

BERLIN Isherwood’s 1945 novella,<br />

The Berlin Stories, conjured a night<br />

world of dancers and dreamers –<br />

later crystallised into the much-loved<br />

musical Cabaret. Now a risqué new<br />

walking tour, inspired by his life in the<br />

city, uncovers a 1930s Berlin rich with<br />

the decadence of the Weimar era.<br />

€10 per person; cabaret-berlin.com<br />

14 | TRAVELLER<br />

The Queen<br />

Spotter’s Guide<br />

As the UK gears up for The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, here’s our<br />

handy guide to identifying the right one…<br />

fi g a. fi g b.<br />

THE QUEEN Elizabeth Regina<br />

Characteristics Lady of a certain age.<br />

Waves a lot. Elaborate plumage. Wears<br />

a lot of headgear, from muted pastel<br />

creations to big, gold crowns, plus a<br />

natty perm-and-sensible-shoe combo.<br />

Environs State occasions, palaces.<br />

Spot Thanks to celebrations marking<br />

her 60th year on the throne, there will<br />

be sighting opportunities in London<br />

on 2-5 June (thediamondjubilee.org).<br />

fi g c. fi g d.<br />

DRAG QUEEN Leggus maximus<br />

Characteristics Lots of make-up,<br />

fl amboyant, rainbow-coloured dresses<br />

and bags of attitude. Not afraid to<br />

break spontaneously into song.<br />

Environs Soho, mostly. This nocturnal<br />

bird favours anywhere with loads of<br />

glitz, glamour and large cocktails.<br />

Spot Floridita Nightclub<br />

(fl oriditalondon.com) runs regular<br />

Drag Queen Dance Classes.<br />

PEARLY QUEEN Buttonus mostus<br />

Characteristics Heavy clothing, shiny<br />

buttons. Speaks in rhyming slang.<br />

Tirelessly fundraises for charity.<br />

Environs Street parties in east London,<br />

markets and working-men’s clubs.<br />

Spot Spy her carrying out charity<br />

collections: try Covent Garden’s<br />

Jubilee Market (jubileemarket.co.uk)<br />

on the third weekend of every<br />

month (19-20 May).<br />

QUEEN Rockus megastarus<br />

Characteristics Big hair, big guitars, big<br />

voices, big on leather.<br />

Environs Stadiums, festivals and<br />

anywhere else that’s fi t for rock gods.<br />

Spot Sadly Queen’s reunion gig at<br />

Knebworth has been cancelled, but you<br />

might still spot them in the audience at<br />

the Dominion Theatre on 14 May for the<br />

10th anniversary of the band’s musical<br />

We Will Rock You (wewillrockyou.co.uk).


WORDS MARK BAILEY | PHOTO GETTY<br />

THE BUZZ | PROFILE<br />

Q+A<br />

Greene and Gold<br />

As the world gears up for the London <strong>2012</strong> Games, we spoke to former 100m Olympic<br />

champion Maurice Greene about what it takes to make sporting history<br />

LONDON<br />

For six years, American sprinter Maurice<br />

Greene was the fastest man who had<br />

ever lived. In June 1999, the Kansas-born<br />

athlete shattered the men’s 100m world<br />

record with a 9.79-second dash and his<br />

historic feat wasn’t matched until 2005.<br />

During that time, Greene won four Olympic<br />

medals, including gold in the 100m and<br />

4x100m relay at the Sydney Olympics<br />

in 2000. Now retired, the 37-year-old<br />

combines business interests and coaching<br />

work with his role as a pundit for<br />

Eurosport. As someone who’s<br />

seen both sides, he’s ideally<br />

placed to reveal the secret to<br />

winning gold. And what really<br />

does go on behind the scenes?<br />

We asked the Olympic legend to<br />

reveal all…<br />

Will London be as good as Beijing?<br />

“Oh, yeah, it’s going to be<br />

fabulous. London is an incredible city and<br />

it’s a place that people love to come and<br />

visit anyway. China put on a very good<br />

Olympics, but I expect London to be just<br />

as good, if not better. I’m excited, not just<br />

as a former Olympian, but because I now<br />

train athletes, like [British female 100m<br />

sprinter] Montell Douglas, so I feel very<br />

close to the action.”<br />

Do you miss being a professional sportsman?<br />

“Oh, no, not at all. The only thing I miss<br />

is the competition. I certainly don’t miss<br />

the training or eating all those vegetables.<br />

I have a diff erent role now, but I have<br />

athletes who have put their careers in my<br />

hands, so I still feel pressure. I can enjoy<br />

watching as a fan now though. I’m looking<br />

forward to the track and fi eld events, the<br />

diving, the swimming and the basketball.”<br />

16 | TRAVELLER<br />

What are your memories of winning gold?<br />

“Standing on the podium in Sydney was<br />

an incredible moment. It sounds stupid,<br />

but it really felt like a dream; like I was<br />

outside of my body and looking at this guy<br />

with a gold medal. There are no words I<br />

can use to make people understand how<br />

happy I actually felt.”<br />

What is life like in the OIympic Village?<br />

“The atmosphere is great, because you’re<br />

there with all the greatest athletes in the<br />

world. You walk to a restaurant and you<br />

“Yohan Blake has a good<br />

chance [of winning] gold,<br />

even though everybody<br />

talks about Usain Bolt.”<br />

see all these famous faces. It’s a cool place<br />

to be. But I have to admit, I spent most of<br />

my time watching movies.”<br />

What are the medal celebrations like?<br />

“Some people have fi nished and are<br />

partying, and others are nervous before a<br />

race, so it can be strange. You can imagine<br />

if someone wins a medal after four years<br />

of training they go pretty crazy – I had<br />

a huge party in a club in Sydney – but<br />

I always had fun as an athlete. We used<br />

to go to Monaco, hire all the fast cars, and<br />

drive around in Porsches, Ferraris and<br />

Aston Martins. That was amazing.”<br />

What makes a gold-medal winner?<br />

“Mental strength. In an Olympic fi nal, any<br />

one of the athletes has the physical ability<br />

to win that race. Can you take it to the next<br />

level at the right moment, stay focused<br />

and believe in yourself? If you can, you<br />

will make history. I was mentally strong,<br />

because I loved to prove people wrong.<br />

I wanted to do the impossible.”<br />

Are 100m runners the superstars in the<br />

Olympic Village?<br />

“The 100m is the heavyweight<br />

championship of the world. Every athlete<br />

knows that. You have to enjoy that. I used<br />

to say that the more people watching, the<br />

better I was going to perform.”<br />

Who will win the men’s 100m in <strong>2012</strong>?<br />

“I think [Jamaican sprinter]<br />

Yohan Blake has a good chance,<br />

even though everybody talks<br />

about Usain Bolt. If Usain is<br />

running like he did last year, he<br />

won’t break any records, but<br />

if he’s running like he was in<br />

China then he could do it again.<br />

Yohan and Usain train together<br />

and that’s good. I trained with<br />

[Trinidad and Tobago sprinter]<br />

Ato Boldon and [American athlete] Jon<br />

Drummond, and we pushed each other<br />

every day. That’s what enabled me to do<br />

what I did.”<br />

What do you like about London?<br />

“I love London. There’s a nightclub called<br />

Chinawhite, which I love. I remember<br />

a private club in St James’s that had<br />

great food – if you could get in. I love<br />

the old buildings. America is not as<br />

old as European countries, so seeing<br />

architecture that has been standing for<br />

centuries still amazes me. I love going<br />

to the south of France and Sweden too.<br />

I always advise people to try new things<br />

when they travel. Some people won’t<br />

eat new things or do new things – if you<br />

don’t, you might miss out on the best<br />

experiences in the world.”


Maurice Green after<br />

winning the 100m<br />

gold at the Sydney<br />

Games in 2000<br />

TRAVELLER | 17


WORDS RANIA MARGARI | PHOTO © ART BASEL<br />

Experience<br />

contemporary art<br />

from all over the<br />

world at Art 43<br />

Basel. This piece is<br />

byJapanese artist<br />

Yoshitomo Nara<br />

BASEL High-rise houses aren’t the only things that put Art Basel head and<br />

shoulders above other art fairs. Held 14-17 June, this year’s festival – in its 43rd<br />

incarnation – will bring together work from almost 300 of the world’s fi nest<br />

galleries. Whether buying, bidding or browsing, visitors can enjoy eye-catching<br />

pieces from surrealism and innovation to sculpture and installation. Get a<br />

weekend package to the fair from €162. See basel.com for more details.<br />

A recycling project<br />

in Greece is bringing<br />

colour and nature<br />

into urban areas<br />

THESSALONIKI Amid ancient<br />

ruins and domed churches, a<br />

two-wheeled revolution is taking<br />

place in the northern Greek city of<br />

Thessaloniki. Following in the tyre<br />

prints of the Canadian Good Bike<br />

Project, which turns old bicycles<br />

into monuments, this city’s rusty,<br />

old two-wheelers are being given<br />

a very colourful revamp instead of<br />

being thrown on the scrapheap.<br />

Known as The Re-cycling<br />

Project, this is street art with a<br />

diff erence. “We want to motivate<br />

ART FESTIVALS<br />

A Very Bright Idea<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

What’s going on?<br />

18 MAY – 3 JUNE<br />

Reykjavik Arts<br />

Festival<br />

REYKJAVIK Gigs by Yann Tiersen<br />

and Bryan Ferry will make music the<br />

main focus of the Reykjavik Arts<br />

Festival, but you’ll fi nd plenty of other<br />

excitements over this fortnight too.<br />

Our pick? Visit the Art Museum for a<br />

posthumous exhibition by Catalan<br />

sculptor Antoni Tàpies. artfest.is<br />

17 MAY – 25 JUNE<br />

Music Weeks<br />

SOFIA The Chamber Ensemble of<br />

Sofi a Soloists are just one of the<br />

international chamber ensembles on<br />

show during this classical music<br />

extravaganza. Of equal delight,<br />

though, are Bulgaria’s stunning<br />

concert halls, which will thrill even the<br />

tone deaf. sofi aweeks.com<br />

19-20 MAY<br />

Museum Festival<br />

BUDAPEST A two-day taster of<br />

what Hungarian museums have to<br />

off er. Within the garden and along the<br />

main street of Budapest’s Hungarian<br />

National Museum, this “museum<br />

market” is a way to sample over a<br />

hundred of them in one place.<br />

majalis.hu<br />

people to volunteer to transform<br />

their town in the simple way<br />

of giving life to old objects,”<br />

explains Kostis Kotsonis, the<br />

group’s co-founder. Thus, the old<br />

rattlers are painted in a rainbow<br />

of colours – green represents<br />

the lack of green spaces in the<br />

city, for example, and orange the<br />

city’s hotspots – while fl owers<br />

are planted in the bikes’ baskets,<br />

bringing a touch of nature to the<br />

urban landscape.<br />

the-recycling-project.tumblr.com<br />

TRAVELLER | 19


WORDS LUKE WATERSON | PHOTOS © WONDERFULCOPENHAGEN.DK<br />

THE BUZZ | CAFÉ CULTURE<br />

Brewing a<br />

Revolution<br />

Nørrebro, in Denmark’s capital, was once a<br />

run-down district known for riots. Now it’s<br />

experiencing a more palatable kind of uprising<br />

COPENHAGEN<br />

“This,” Klaus Thomsen indicates a freshly<br />

made espresso with reverence, “is God<br />

in a cup.” The former World Barista<br />

Champion isn’t exaggerating. The coff ee<br />

he’s just prepared, using beans from<br />

Panama’s Hacienda La Esmeralda, once<br />

prompted a customer to exclaim he’d<br />

seen the almighty’s face in the brew.<br />

The Copenhagen café he part-owns,<br />

Coff ee Collective (coff eecollective.dk),<br />

prides itself on only using responsibly<br />

sourced beans and, since its opening<br />

in 2008, Thomsen has travelled to<br />

plantations around the world, buying<br />

the beans direct from the growers. “It’s a<br />

pleasure to put names and faces to the<br />

world’s best coff ee” he says. “Giving this<br />

recognition to the producers is crucial to<br />

the whole idea of fairtrade.”<br />

The café also has a mission to educate<br />

customers about where their coff ee<br />

comes from and how it’s made. It even<br />

off ers barista classes and courses to its<br />

caring, sharing public.<br />

This intelligent approach to food<br />

and drink is typical of Nørrebro,<br />

the north-western inner suburb<br />

of Copenhagen that is garnering<br />

a reputation for simple culinary<br />

authenticity. Jægersborggade in<br />

particular – the hip street where<br />

Thomsen and co grind their wares –<br />

is now the place to eat, drink and be<br />

merry in the Danish capital, thanks<br />

to its underground wine bars, artisan<br />

chocolatiers and right-on vegetarian<br />

delis. This is no small achievement in a<br />

city that is – per the latest numbers – as<br />

Michelin-star-spangled as Milan.<br />

It’s even more unusual if you consider<br />

Nørrebro’s dark history. The area was<br />

once synonymous with violent riots,<br />

20 | TRAVELLER<br />

Clockwise from near<br />

right, the small<br />

street of<br />

Jægersborggade<br />

has become the<br />

hub of Nørrebro; for<br />

fresh seafood head<br />

to Oysters & Grill;<br />

café culture at<br />

Coff ee Collective on<br />

Jægersborggade;<br />

gastronomy at Relæ<br />

has earned<br />

Nørrebro its fi rst<br />

Michelin-star<br />

Dining out is<br />

like stopping<br />

by a friend’s<br />

apartment<br />

dope peddling and deprivation. During<br />

the 1980s, fracas with the police were<br />

commonplace and, as recently as 2007,<br />

riots broke out in protest at the closing of<br />

music venue the Ungdomshuset (literally<br />

the Youth House) that resulted in the<br />

arrest of 273 people.<br />

What a diff erence a few years make.<br />

Now the cobbled streets are lined with<br />

simple, informal cafés, trendy boutiques,<br />

colourful graffi ti and the ever-ubiquitous<br />

city bicycles. Despite maintaining its<br />

edgy appeal, the threat of violence has<br />

faded away in Nørrebro, to be replaced<br />

by a seriously relaxed vibe and some<br />

serious foodie culture. It’s not a bad spot<br />

for people watching either.<br />

Take local bistro Restaurant Relæ<br />

(restaurant-relae.dk). With its focus<br />

on fresh ingredients cooked in simple,<br />

innovative ways, it exemplifi es the spirit<br />

of the area. Here, as at Coff ee Collective,<br />

co-owners Kim Rossen and former Noma<br />

sous chef Christian Puglisi strive to bring


diners closer to their food: there’s an<br />

open kitchen and every eff ort is made<br />

to keep patrons informed about where<br />

the produce comes from. For this they<br />

were rewarded with the Jægersborggade<br />

area’s fi rst Michelin star in March.<br />

What else sets Nørrebro apart? Aside<br />

from the bright young chefs, it’s also<br />

the place to sample Denmark’s ethnic<br />

fusion treats – freshly baked pastries and<br />

heart-stopping grilled Middle Eastern<br />

meats. But more than this, there’s a real<br />

Danish twist. Dining out is like stopping<br />

by a friend’s battered apartment: an<br />

understated, relaxed experience, like that<br />

typifi ed by cool café bar/up-and-coming<br />

music venue Tjili Pop (tjili.dk).<br />

In Nørrebro, there’s no pomp to the<br />

eateries – chefs make a point of getting<br />

away from that – and so it was with<br />

the arrival of Oysters & Grill (cofoco.<br />

dk/oysters.php), the district’s hot new<br />

seafood joint. No wild fanfare opening,<br />

just a steady trickle of young Danes<br />

putting down pushbikes and going in<br />

to investigate. Continuing the Nørrebro<br />

trend, this restaurant doesn’t necessarily<br />

serve better food; it’s just in a less<br />

pretentious, more convivial environment.<br />

Hygge is the Danish way of socialising<br />

and means, essentially, “relaxing and<br />

enjoying quality time together”.<br />

So what of the future? The recently<br />

launched Visit Copenhagen app is<br />

already directing tourists to this onceunknown<br />

neighbourhood in ever greater<br />

numbers, but locals aren’t concerned.<br />

Nørrebro has no intention of changing<br />

just yet. Wake up and smell the ethically<br />

sourced coff ee.<br />

THE BUZZ | CAFÉ CULTURE<br />

FULL OF<br />

BEANS<br />

Three other places<br />

rocking their own version<br />

of European café culture<br />

FAZIL BEY<br />

ISTANBUL<br />

Turks introduced<br />

coff ee to Europe<br />

and have been<br />

brewing for<br />

centuries. Try a cup at this traditional<br />

Kadıköy market coff ee house<br />

for an authentic Istanbul experience<br />

(1A Serasker Caddesi; fazilbey.com).<br />

ELEPHANT<br />

HOUSE<br />

EDINBURGH<br />

When it comes<br />

to elegant<br />

venues to grab<br />

a brew, Scotland’s capital rivals the<br />

best. Enjoy a cup in the place where<br />

JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter (32<br />

Marshall Street; elephanthouse.biz).<br />

BATEAU IVRE<br />

BERLIN<br />

Ever-hip<br />

Kreuzberg is<br />

rammed with<br />

delectable coff ee<br />

places. Our favourite is this classy<br />

spot, which takes inspiration from a<br />

Rimbaud poem (18 Oranienstraße;<br />

tel: +49 (0)30 6140 3659).<br />

TRAVELLER | 21


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

COMING FOR<br />

THE GAMES?<br />

Check out these capital<br />

ideas for aff ordable<br />

summer stays<br />

CAMP IN THE EAST<br />

A temporary campsite, with free<br />

shuttle bus to the Olympic Park, is<br />

being set up in Walthamstow just for<br />

the Games. Take your own tent, stay<br />

in one of theirs or enjoy a luxury yurt.<br />

Pitches start at £15 (€18) per person.<br />

campinlondon.com<br />

HOSTEL IN THE SOUTH<br />

Opening on 1 July in up-and-coming<br />

Elephant and Castle, the Safestay<br />

hostel off ers more than bunk beds.<br />

Its old Georgian building has bright,<br />

clean rooms and communal areas<br />

that look out over the garden. From<br />

£18 (€21) per night. safestay.co.uk<br />

APARTMENTS IN THE NORTH<br />

In the pretty Hampstead area of<br />

London, 291 Suites is a modern,<br />

apartment-style hotel. With your own<br />

cooking facilities, these three-star,<br />

one-bedroom fl ats will allow you to<br />

feel right at home. From £199 (€238).<br />

laterooms.com<br />

22 | TRAVELLER<br />

The Executive<br />

Lounge of the<br />

Hotel 41 feels as<br />

cosy and familiar<br />

as a gent’s club<br />

LONDON<br />

<strong>2012</strong><br />

Is This London’s Best<br />

Boutique Hotel?<br />

LONDON It’s a well-known (though<br />

rarely revealed) fact within journalism<br />

that whenever a headline poses a<br />

question, the answer is usually “no”. Hotel<br />

41 proves the exception to the rule: this<br />

family-run boutique bolthole is the fi nest<br />

we’ve ever stayed in in London.<br />

Don’t just take our word. It was voted<br />

the UK capital’s best by the users of<br />

TripAdvisor and was the only UK hotel<br />

to feature in the travel website’s recent<br />

Traveller’s Choice Awards. “Amazing,<br />

sexy, romantic,” said one rapt guest. “My<br />

home from home,” gushed another.<br />

That’s why 41 is our pick for anyone<br />

visiting the capital this summer (we hear<br />

there’s a big sporting event on). More like<br />

a member’s club than a hotel, the whole<br />

experience centres around the library,<br />

where guests lounge on welcomingly<br />

worn leather sofas surrounded by eclectic<br />

objets d’art. Staff wait attentively, but<br />

never obsequiously – a trick only the<br />

best hotels manage. All this attention to<br />

detail is the trademark of Bea Tollman,<br />

the South African behind this and several<br />

other equally fabulous hotels worldwide.<br />

The rooms, for instance, with their<br />

black-and-white rococo stylings, scream<br />

understated luxury, while the relaxed<br />

ambience extends to an honesty bar –<br />

one of the last remaining in the city.<br />

Close to Buckingham Palace, there are<br />

attractions galore on hand should the<br />

goings on in east London become too<br />

much. But, frankly, you <strong>may</strong> just decide<br />

not to venture out at all. 41hotel.com<br />

WORDS SIMON KURS, AMY DENNIS


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WORDS AMY DENNIS | PHOTO © GETTY<br />

VIEWING NOTES<br />

Are those real babies that man is<br />

jumping j p g over? Yes, , they y are, , but he’s<br />

not really y a man: the local people ppeople p in<br />

the the town of Castrillo de Murcia, , south<br />

of Bilbao, , believe that he’s<br />

El Colacho<br />

(The ( Devil) Devil) ) and and jjumping jumping p g over the<br />

nippers nippers pp saves them from original g sin.<br />

Shouldn’t someone tell their<br />

parents? p Actually, y, they y know. People<br />

p<br />

come from far and wide to off er their<br />

newborn tots. More than 90 niños<br />

(who ( must be under a year y year old) ) are<br />

brought g to the Plaza del Ayuntamiento<br />

y<br />

in in the town centre to take ppart<br />

part in the<br />

devil’s devil’s j jump p every yy year.<br />

That’s pretty p y wacky. y True, , but the<br />

event is part ppart of the town’s Corpus p<br />

Christi Christi celebrations celebrations and it’s been<br />

going g g since 1620, , so it’s a bit of an<br />

institution now.<br />

Isn’t it, , well, , a little dangerous? g<br />

It certainly y is. Last y year, , El Colacho<br />

sprained p his ankle and had to bow out<br />

of proceedings. p g But fortunately y no<br />

babies have suff ered at the<br />

hands (or ( (or should that be feet) )<br />

of the jumpers. jjumpers. p Also, , after the<br />

jumping, j p g, the babies get gget<br />

rose<br />

petals p thrown on them, , so that<br />

– – allegedly g y – makes it all better.<br />

El Salto del Colacho is held on 10 June.<br />

sasamon.burgos.es g<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

THE MUST SEE<br />

EL SALTO<br />

DEL<br />

COLACHO<br />

BILBAO<br />

TRAVELLER | 25


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL TRENDS<br />

Neighbourhood Watch: Merchant City<br />

GLASGOW Originally the haunt of the city’s tobacco lords, Trongate, the main street in this area,<br />

is now known for its high-end shopping. Long-neglected throughout the 1900s, the district has seen<br />

recent regeneration, bringing a wave of vintage and eco shops, artists’ studios and exhibitions.<br />

GILLIAN MACDONALD, 19, STUDENT<br />

What’s your favourite neighbourhood bar?<br />

“The little hipster bar in the Brunswick<br />

Hotel where DJs play at the weekends<br />

[106-108 Brunswick Street; tel: +44 141<br />

552 0001, brunswickhotel.co.uk].”<br />

What’s your favourite local restaurant?<br />

“Sapporo Teppanyaki is good if you’re out<br />

with your mates. The tables are huge and<br />

the chefs put on a show [6 Ingram Street;<br />

tel: +44 (0)141 553 4060, sapporo.co.uk].”<br />

Secret tip? “Barras Market on the<br />

weekends for real vintage bargains<br />

[10am-5pm, 224 Gallowgate;<br />

glasgow-barrowland.com].”<br />

26 | TRAVELLER<br />

LYNDSAY PAGAN, 27, DESIGNER<br />

What’s your favourite neighbourhood<br />

bar? “Nice ‘N’ Sleazy. The cocktails<br />

are fantastic and it’s very chilled [421<br />

Sauchiehall Street; tel: +44 (0)141 333<br />

0900, nicensleazy.com].”<br />

What’s your coolest shop? “Mr Ben for<br />

vintage clothing. The staff are lovely [101<br />

King Street; tel: +44 (0)141 553 1936,<br />

mrbenretroclothing.com].”<br />

Secret Tip? “Trongate 103. It’s a gallery<br />

and home to the slightly whacky<br />

Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre [103<br />

Trongate; tel: +44 (0)141 276 8380.<br />

trongate103.com].”<br />

JAMES SCOTT, 37, SALES DIRECTOR<br />

What’s your favourite local restaurant?<br />

“Barbarossa, where Italy meets Scotland.<br />

Go casual or head upstairs for something<br />

fancier. [5 Clarkston Road; tel: +44 (0)141<br />

560 3898, barbarossarestaurant.co.uk].”<br />

What’s your coolest shop? “Brazen is<br />

full of individual jewellery designers,<br />

with a huge selection of men’s items<br />

[58 Albion Street; tel: +44 (0)141 552<br />

4551, brazenstudios.co.uk].”<br />

Secret Tip? “Barras Art & Design Centre.<br />

You can easily lose a day wandering<br />

around the exhibits [54 Calton Entry;<br />

barrasartanddesign.com].”<br />

ON TREND<br />

trendwatching.com scans the globe<br />

for the latest emerging consumer<br />

trends. Here, Henry Mason, head of<br />

the company’s research and analysis,<br />

tells us what to watch this month.<br />

LIFE: SUBSCRIBED<br />

If you’re bored of bills being the only<br />

thing delivered by the postman, think<br />

about upgrading your subscriptions.<br />

We’re not talking about a magazine<br />

that lands on the doormat every<br />

month – mail orders have smartened<br />

up, with more companies sending<br />

beauty products, coff ee, breads and<br />

even birds to busy consumers.<br />

Record and fashion label badDETT<br />

(baddett.com), for example, will send<br />

music fans a silk-screened T-shirt<br />

designed with the album artwork of<br />

a diff erent artist every month. The<br />

shirt’s label has a QR code so you can<br />

download music to your phone too.<br />

Foodwise, Kopi (pictured, kopi.<br />

co.uk) delivers coff ee – beans<br />

or ground – direct to your door.<br />

Each package contains tasting<br />

notes, information on source and<br />

instructions to brew the perfect cup.<br />

Not ones to shy away from a<br />

trend, France’s le post is delivering<br />

fresh produce to customers of La<br />

Ferme des Echancées (ferme-desechancees.com).<br />

Subscribers sign a<br />

contrat poule (chicken contract) and<br />

receive eggs for 12 months. At the end<br />

of the year, they can have the carcass<br />

of the bird delivered for cooking.<br />

All in all, it’s given us a whole new<br />

reason to get excited about hearing<br />

that thud of post on the doormat.<br />

To subscribe to the free monthly Trend.<br />

Briefi ng, available in English, Dutch,<br />

German, French, Spanish, Turkish and<br />

Portuguese, go to trendwatching.com<br />

WORDS CHRIS HUNT/GENUINE


oggi.com<br />

shop.boggi.com


WORDS HETTIE MAYLAM | PHOTO © ALAMY | COMPETITION DETAILS AT TRAVELLER.EASYJET.COM/T&Cs<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

Photo<br />

Contest<br />

Winner!<br />

CONGRATULATIONS to the<br />

winner of our March photo<br />

competition! Thanks to all of<br />

you who entered: we had many<br />

great entries that show the<br />

enormous range of trips<br />

taken on easyJet. Our winner<br />

is Marianna Dúzs, with this<br />

wonderful picture of her and<br />

her boyfriend in Paris. She wins<br />

two tickets to the easyJet<br />

destination of her choice...<br />

Marianna says:<br />

“This shows my<br />

boyfriend and<br />

me jumping for<br />

happiness in front of<br />

the glass pyramid of<br />

the Louvre. He lives<br />

in Paris and I live<br />

in Budapest, so you<br />

literally give us wings<br />

to see each other.<br />

Thank you for that!”<br />

28 | TRAVELLER<br />

WINNER!<br />

Colditz Castle<br />

isn’t everyone’s<br />

idea of a holiday<br />

destination<br />

Enjoy Your Stay...<br />

at Colditz?<br />

DRESDEN Unlikely as it <strong>may</strong> seem, Colditz Castle, the<br />

infamous German POW camp, is making headlines<br />

again, having opened its doors as a hotel. For €24 (£22)<br />

a night, visitors to the castle can get the ultimate prisoner<br />

experience, with basic accommodation within the original<br />

German guard quarters and breakfast – porridge, perhaps?<br />

– in the inmates’ canteen. The castle joins other prisonsturned-hostelries,<br />

including the Långholmen in Stockholm<br />

and Ljubljana’s Hostel Celica, on what must surely be a list of<br />

the world’s strangest overnight stays. battlefi eldtours.co.uk


WORDS LARA DUNN | ILLUSTRATION © MARC ASPINALL<br />

THE BUZZ | JERSEY<br />

Wanderland<br />

It’s Spring Walking Week in<br />

Jersey on 12-19 May, so<br />

we’ve suggested a gamut<br />

of rambles you can do<br />

all-year round<br />

30 | TRAVELLER<br />

1<br />

A capital walk<br />

Jersey’s capital, St<br />

Helier – named after a<br />

6th-century martyr –<br />

is home to historical<br />

sculptures and dairy<br />

ice cream. A walk along<br />

the seafront, with its<br />

many yachts, celebrates<br />

Jersey’s proud nautical<br />

tradition. Spot Elizabeth<br />

Castle and Hermitage<br />

Rock, where St Helier<br />

reputedly lived, which are<br />

both just off shore.<br />

Distance: 3.2km<br />

Rating: easy<br />

Download maps of these walks from jersey.com<br />

2<br />

Take a night stroll<br />

The third-highest tides in<br />

the world are in Jersey;<br />

when they roll away, a<br />

distinctly lunar landscape<br />

is revealed. Walking<br />

on this is inadvisable<br />

without a guide, so<br />

Jersey Walk Adventures<br />

(jerseywalkadventures.<br />

co.uk) off er nighttime<br />

‘moonwalks’ across sand<br />

bars, past rock pools and<br />

out to the Seymour or<br />

Icho Towers.<br />

Distance: 3km<br />

Rating: moderate<br />

3<br />

Wine-tasting<br />

wander<br />

The church at St Mary’s<br />

Parish dates back to<br />

William the Conqueror<br />

in 1042. Doubtless he’d<br />

have enjoyed a visit to La<br />

Mare Wine Estate, which<br />

produces around 18,000<br />

bottles of wine a year.<br />

This walk also takes in<br />

the beautiful coast near<br />

Grève de Lecq, and passes<br />

close to a glassworks and<br />

jewellery workshop.<br />

Distance: 11.2km<br />

Rating: moderate


4<br />

West-coast wend<br />

Follow this route for<br />

incredible views of surfers<br />

and BloKarters coasting<br />

the sandy beaches in<br />

their sailed carts, plus Les<br />

Mielles Nature Reserve<br />

and incredible sea views<br />

from the National Trust<br />

site at Les Monts Grantez.<br />

Pop into the Atlantic<br />

Hotel’s Michelin-starred<br />

Ocean Restaurant for the<br />

island’s best lunch, rich<br />

with Jersey cream.<br />

Distance: 13km<br />

Rating: moderate/hard<br />

5<br />

Trip the causeway<br />

Following a disused<br />

railway, this inland walk<br />

from St Aubin to La<br />

Corbière passes near a<br />

lavender farm that will<br />

be in full bloom by late<br />

May. The UK’s fi rst-ever<br />

concrete lighthouse<br />

– 19m-tall and dating<br />

back to 1874 – is at La<br />

Corbière. Reach it via a<br />

causeway at low tide. See<br />

theportofj ersey.com for<br />

tide times.<br />

Distance: 8.9km<br />

Rating: moderate/hard


THE BUZZ | BIG QUESTION<br />

FOR SEAFOOD FANS<br />

MANCHESTER<br />

The adventure Pull on a pair of<br />

waders and head out to the home of the<br />

world-famous Morecambe Bay shrimps.<br />

Hitch a ride on a vintage tractor to<br />

drag nets through the mud fl ats of this<br />

beautiful bay, while learning all about the<br />

crustaceans and other regional seafood.<br />

The skills With guidance from local<br />

fi shermen and expert chefs, students are<br />

taught how to read the tides, then catch,<br />

peel, prepare and pot their own shrimps<br />

and learn other seafood recipes.<br />

The stay The nearby Swan Hotel &<br />

Spa off ers a comfortable place for the<br />

night, with cosy rooms; a local, seasonal<br />

restaurant; pampering spa and heated<br />

indoor pool – just in case you haven’t had<br />

quite enough of being damp by then.<br />

From £119 (€142) for a double room<br />

at The Swan Hotel & Spa (swanhotel.<br />

com). Tours need to be pre-booked and<br />

are subject to tides and weather. They<br />

cost £25pp through Taste Cumbria<br />

(tastecumbria.com). Morecambe Bay is a<br />

90-minute drive from Manchester Airport.<br />

32 | TRAVELLER<br />

“Where are the<br />

best adventures<br />

for foodies?”<br />

Cookery classes are so passé these days. Food<br />

writer Rosie Birkett dishes up her top three trips if<br />

you want to take culinary holidays to the next level<br />

FOR WINE BUFFS<br />

PORTO<br />

The adventure Immerse yourself in all<br />

things grape in the Douro Valley, an area<br />

renowned for its traditional vineyards.<br />

Luxurious wine spa hotel The Yeatman,<br />

on the banks of the Douro River, provides<br />

a comfortable base to explore the region<br />

and enjoy its produce.<br />

The skills The hotel can arrange trips to<br />

explore the vineyards and is just a short<br />

train ride from the valley. Discover how<br />

wine and port are made in the traditional<br />

way – by stamping on the grapes – and,<br />

if you time your visit with the September<br />

harvest, you can have a go yourself.<br />

The stay The Yeatman overlooks the<br />

UNESCO-recognised centre of Porto and<br />

has one of the world’s most extensive<br />

collections of Portuguese wines, a<br />

Michelin-starred restaurant, a decantershaped<br />

pool and vinotherapy spa. For the<br />

wine obsessive, the Taylor Master Suite<br />

off ers a bed inside a port barrel (above).<br />

From €214 for a double room. Book<br />

at hotels.easyJet.com. The hotel is a<br />

25-minute drive from Porto Airport.<br />

FOR LUXURY GOURMETS<br />

PISA<br />

The adventure Take a walk though the<br />

beautiful Tuscan woodland with Giulio<br />

Benuzzi and his dedicated dog, Edda,<br />

whose olfactory powers help him sniff<br />

out the elusive luxury fungus. Afterwards,<br />

lunch in a traditional Tuscan villa includes<br />

dishes such as bruschetta with fresh<br />

truffl es or truffl e tagliatelle.<br />

The skills Giulio, who has made truffl es<br />

his life, will guide you through the science<br />

behind how the mystical delicacies grow,<br />

and show you how to clean and store<br />

them. You can also take a cookery course<br />

here to learn truffl e-based recipes.<br />

The stay Tuscan farmhouse hotel Villa<br />

Olmi in Bagno a Ripoli, a short distance<br />

from the heart of Florence, is a suitably<br />

rustic, stylish place to base yourself.<br />

Giulio can arrange pick-up from here or<br />

any other hotel in and around Florence.<br />

From €174 for a double room at Villa<br />

Olmi. Book at hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Tour with truffl e lunch from €220 per<br />

person (truffl ehunter.net). Florence is an<br />

80-minute drive from Pisa airport.


WIN A TRIP TO<br />

THE WORLD’S<br />

FAVOURITE<br />

FESTIVAL CITY<br />

Each summer the eyes of the cultural<br />

world turn to Edinburgh’s Festivals.<br />

With events and shows involving over<br />

25,000 world class artists, you’ll find<br />

something around every corner.<br />

“Unique is an overused word,<br />

but it absolutely applies here.<br />

August in Edinburgh is like no<br />

place else on earth.” Time Out<br />

“In August each year Edinburgh<br />

becomes the world’s cultural<br />

capital, hosting the biggest<br />

collection of arts festivals on the<br />

planet.” Wanderlust Magazine<br />

To win a trip for two to<br />

Edinburgh’s Festivals,<br />

enter our free competition at<br />

edinburghfestivals.co.uk/flytowin


WORDS CHRIS BEANLAND, STEPHANIE YIP |PHOTO © MEDIASERVER.HAMBURG.DE/C. SPAHRBIER, DIDIER GUY<br />

BOOK AHEAD<br />

Planning a trip over the<br />

next few months? Make a<br />

note in your diary and get<br />

to one of these events<br />

JULY<br />

Benicassim Festival<br />

BARCELONA<br />

Whatever else you’re up to this<br />

summer, be sure to save 12-15 July<br />

for partying with the hordes at<br />

Benicassim. Those who have been<br />

to this four-day music festival say<br />

it’s Europe’s best and this year they<br />

might be right. An impressive line-up<br />

has already been confi rmed, with Bob<br />

SEPTEMBER<br />

Reeperbahn Festival<br />

HAMBURG<br />

It might be Europe’s most<br />

raunchy destination but for one<br />

weekend, on 20-22 September,<br />

the Reeperbahn – and the St<br />

Pauli district around it – will<br />

become the centre of a cool<br />

arts-and-music celebration. The<br />

Reeperbahn Festival showcases<br />

bohemian culture through spoken<br />

Dylan, reformed Manchester band<br />

The Stone Roses, Florence and the<br />

Machine and Noel Gallagher booking<br />

out the main stage, and more names<br />

pending. What makes it really special,<br />

however, is the setting: when things<br />

hot up in the crowds, just pop along to<br />

the beach and cool down in the Med.<br />

benicassimfestival.co.uk<br />

word, comics, fi lms, talks and<br />

exhibitions, while by night there<br />

are gigs by hot, upcoming bands<br />

in the venues along the legendarily<br />

debauched strip. It confi rms what<br />

the citizens of Hamburg already<br />

know: that theirs is one of the<br />

most cutting-edge, coolest cities<br />

in northern Europe.<br />

reeperbahnfestival.com<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

AUGUST<br />

La Route du<br />

Champagne<br />

LILLE/BRUSSELS<br />

Despite the growing popularity of cava<br />

and prosecco, many still believe that<br />

nothing but the French bubbly will do.<br />

For these folk (and, yes, the rest of us),<br />

La Route du Champagne weekend<br />

of 4-5 August is a little piece of<br />

heaven. More than 20 top producers<br />

– including Demilly, Drappier, Favier<br />

Hubert and Cheq Gaston – in villages<br />

around the famous Champagne<br />

triangle will open their doors for free<br />

tastings. Buy a special-edition fl ute for<br />

€10 from one of the visitor centres –<br />

that’s your key to try a snifter of their<br />

wares – and you’re off on a tasting<br />

adventure. By night there are dinners,<br />

dances and live music too.<br />

<strong>2012</strong>.routeduchampagne.com<br />

TRAVELLER | 35


THE BUZZ | IBIZA<br />

The Party’s<br />

Starting...<br />

Are you ready for the best summer ever?<br />

As Ibiza’s season opens this month, here’s<br />

the lowdown on the can’t-miss events<br />

Just to say the word Ibiza is to conjure up a vision of<br />

shimmering sunsets, packed-out superclubs and, well, probably<br />

a killer hangover or two. But whether you’re a rave-all-night type<br />

or in search of more blissed-out Balearic beats, Ibiza’s party<br />

scene is the place to be. It’s been luring people to the idyllic<br />

island for years – and this season looks set to be more epic<br />

than ever before. But where to go? From DJs to promoters and<br />

clubbing gurus, we spoke to those in the know to get their tips<br />

for the hottest must-dos of <strong>2012</strong>.<br />

THE ICONIC CLUB<br />

DIRECTOR<br />

Danny Whittle, brand<br />

director at Pacha<br />

“There’s never been such a<br />

big buzz in the lead up to the<br />

season. From the last week<br />

of May, with the opening<br />

of Pacha (pacha.com), the<br />

second year of [cabaret<br />

restaurant] Lio (lioibizacom)<br />

and the International Music<br />

Summit (IMS, 23–25 May;<br />

internationalmusicsummit.<br />

com), it’s going to be huge.”<br />

36 | TRAVELLER<br />

Left, Ushuaïa,<br />

whose opening<br />

weekend party will<br />

take place on<br />

26-27 May,<br />

featuring Luciano<br />

and Fatboy Slim<br />

THE DANCE MUSIC<br />

JOURNALIST<br />

Nick Stevenson, associate<br />

editor at Mixmag and Ibiza<br />

regular since 2000<br />

“For me, the season will kick<br />

off with the International<br />

Music Festival’s fi nale party<br />

on the historic Dalt Vila, with<br />

a performance by Azari & III<br />

(25 May). In June, the clubs<br />

open. A highlight will be Armin<br />

van Buuren, who’s moved<br />

from Space to Privilege on<br />

Mondays (starts 25 June). The<br />

Mixmag Terrace at Cream,<br />

Amnesia (Thursdays), is a<br />

guaranteed blinder, too.”<br />

THE SUPERSTAR DJ<br />

Bob Sinclar, French DJ,<br />

producer and re-mixer<br />

“The energy in Ibiza is like no<br />

other place in the world and<br />

the party vibe is incredible.<br />

When the season starts, it’s<br />

the beginning of an amazing<br />

journey. I love to DJ at outdoor<br />

clubs and bars, like Café<br />

Mambo (opens 18 May;<br />

cafemamboibiza.com) in San<br />

Antonio. What a joy to play<br />

music to the sexiest crowd,<br />

dancing in the sunshine!”<br />

THE RECORD LABEL BOSS<br />

Simon Dunmore, founder of<br />

Defected Records<br />

“For those who know Ibiza,<br />

Defected In The House at<br />

Pacha is the Saturday night<br />

party of choice (starts 26<br />

May). Whether you’re a<br />

hardened club fanatic, a VIP<br />

or an Ibiza newbie, you’ll love<br />

it. Outdoor clubbing and pool<br />

parties have recently become<br />

very popular, and the new<br />

must-be-seen-at hang-out<br />

will be The One Hotel (Cap<br />

Martinet South, Santa Eulalia<br />

del Rio, Jesús). Set on a cliff<br />

top, with spectacular views,<br />

the hotel opens for the fi rst<br />

time at the end of June.”


THE MUSIC MAESTRO<br />

Zane Lowe, Radio 1 DJ and<br />

music director of Ibiza Rocks<br />

“I’m really excited this year<br />

about the new night, W.A.R.<br />

(We Are Rockstars, starts<br />

8 June), taking place at the<br />

Ibiza Rocks Hotel on Fridays<br />

(ibizarocks.com). It’s going<br />

to be the fi rst time Mark<br />

Ronson and I will debut our<br />

new show – it’ll be the most<br />

fun you can have this side of<br />

your own imagination. And I<br />

<strong>may</strong> be biased, but you can’t<br />

go wrong with the events BBC<br />

Radio 1 put on each summer.”<br />

THE CLUB PROGRAMMER<br />

Mark Broadbent, musical<br />

director of We Love Music<br />

and booker for We Love<br />

Space, now in its 14th year<br />

(starts 10 June)<br />

“I look forward to the<br />

‘happenings’ that spring up<br />

almost unannounced around<br />

the island on the beaches<br />

near Talamanca Bay. The<br />

best way of fi nding out about<br />

these is to buy the local paper<br />

and see what the council is<br />

saying or ask a local. The guys<br />

from Ibiza Rocks have taken<br />

control of the old Pikes Hotel<br />

(ibizarocks.com/house) near<br />

San Antonio and this is the<br />

place to be seen. Hang out<br />

with popstars and drink from<br />

a silver slipper, while Jade<br />

Jagger and Philippe Starck<br />

froth around in the pool.”<br />

THE CLUBBING CHANNEL<br />

BROADCASTER<br />

Ray Smith, CEO of B@ TV,<br />

purveyor of online DJ sets<br />

“With Luciano headlining a<br />

Ushuaïa opening party<br />

(26 May; ushuaiabeachhotel.<br />

com), it looks like it’s going to<br />

be another massive season<br />

for the club, following on from<br />

its phenomenal success last<br />

year. And Tiesto will pick up<br />

where Swedish House Mafi a<br />

left off at Pacha (starts 28<br />

May), making Monday the<br />

biggest night of the week.”<br />

THE BUZZ | IBIZA<br />

THE MUSIC INDUSTRY<br />

INSIDER<br />

Ben Turner, founder of<br />

Graphite music management<br />

and co-founder of the<br />

International Music Summit<br />

“Ibiza <strong>2012</strong> is the year of<br />

change. There has never<br />

been a summer with so many<br />

artists moving venues, new<br />

residencies launching and<br />

the addition of a festival and<br />

music conference. IMS has<br />

teamed up with Live Nation<br />

to present the Ibiza 123<br />

Festival in San Antonio (1-3<br />

July; ibiza123festival.com),<br />

seeing iconic pop and rock<br />

artists collaborating with<br />

electronic acts. Lenny Kravitz<br />

with Luciano? Who could<br />

have imagined it? Add Richie<br />

Hawtin’s Thursday residency<br />

at Space (spaceibiza.com)<br />

with his Enter concept, uniting<br />

technology, electronica and<br />

the Ibiza party spirit. What<br />

won’t change is the island’s<br />

insane tempo, its durability or<br />

the sheer life-affi rming quality<br />

of a visit.”<br />

TRAVELLER | 37<br />

WORDS LAURA MARTIN | PHOTO GETTY


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THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

HOTEL REVIEWS | NEWS & OFFERS<br />

sleep easy<br />

Grand Hotel Villa Tuscolana<br />

ROME<br />

From its hillside position, this palace in<br />

the commune of Frascati has stunning<br />

views over nearby Rome. Dating back<br />

to the mid-16th century, the villa was<br />

an opulent private residence for gentry<br />

before being transformed into a hotel in<br />

1996, and all the luxuries that a count or<br />

duke could ever desire are still in place.<br />

Every attention has been paid<br />

to details in the hotel’s 100 rooms,<br />

40 | TRAVELLER<br />

The Masters’ Suites<br />

of the Varsity Hotel<br />

have fantastic views<br />

over Cambridge<br />

where antique furniture, paintings<br />

and frescoed ceilings remain intact,<br />

while Tuscolana’s striking façade and<br />

manicured gardens make for a dramatic<br />

setting to any Roman stay.<br />

Contemporary meets old world in<br />

the Lympha Spa, where you can bathe<br />

like an emperor and enjoy ayurvedic<br />

massage, while La Rufi nella restaurant<br />

serves a daily menu of local seafood.<br />

From €120, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

Varsity Hotel<br />

LONDON STANSTED<br />

Like estate agents, hoteliers have their<br />

own special language in which, too<br />

often, “boutique” means nothing more<br />

than “poky”. It’s a delight, therefore,<br />

to fi nd that when the term is applied<br />

to this Cambridge hotel, it means a<br />

small-but-perfectly formed example of<br />

understated opulence.<br />

With nods to the city’s intellectual<br />

heritage, this neat little charmer comes<br />

from a group of Cambridge alumni who<br />

opened its doors in 2010. Their affection<br />

for the city is evident in the collegeinspired<br />

names of its 48 rooms and<br />

four Masters’ Suites – St John’s, Jesus,<br />

Trinity and Clare – which have fourposter<br />

beds and 270° picture windows.<br />

Appropriately, the hotel’s crowning<br />

glory is its summer roof terrace, where<br />

sunglassed urbanites sip G&Ts, while,<br />

conveniently for guests, adjoining<br />

buildings house the buzzing River Bar<br />

Steakhouse and Aveda spa<br />

Just 40 minutes from Stansted<br />

airport, this very British bolthole<br />

is becoming the go-to place in<br />

the university town for stylish<br />

surroundings, friendly service and a real<br />

boutique experience. From £182 (€218),<br />

book at hotels.easyJet.com


WORDS AMY DENNIS, SARAH WARWICK, SARAH LANE<br />

N.<br />

3<br />

OF THE<br />

BEST<br />

LONDON<br />

How do the creative types of east London<br />

get through such menial tasks as meetings?<br />

They head to one of the hottest hotels in<br />

town, of course, where delicious bistro<br />

dishes can be delivered straight to the oak<br />

tables of the hotel’s six meeting rooms and,<br />

if things overrun, the beds are very cosy.<br />

From £89 (€106), book at hoxtonhotels.com<br />

BUSINESS HOTELS<br />

BERLIN<br />

Newly refurbished, this smart conference<br />

hotel now has 16 meeting rooms with<br />

capacity for up to 500 people. If business is<br />

slow, there’s plenty to keep you entertained<br />

in the Executive Lounge, plus the views over<br />

Berlin’s Gendarmenmarkt from the suites’<br />

fl oor-to-ceiling windows are wunderbar.<br />

From €109, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

HOXTON HOTEL HILTON CROWNE PLAZA<br />

LATEST NEWS<br />

LONDON<br />

Once the home of London’s fi nest<br />

newspapers, Fleet Street now welcomes<br />

the city’s newest luxury hotel. The<br />

four-star Apex Temple Court Hotel has<br />

spacious communal areas, an interior<br />

courtyard, and bright rooms and suites<br />

– some with balcony views over the<br />

city’s east end. Comfort is key here: all<br />

184 rooms have king-size beds and Bose<br />

sound docks. On a site of historic value,<br />

which housed the crusading Knights<br />

Templar in the 12th century, the hotel<br />

is also close to the river Thames and<br />

St Paul’s Cathedral. From £117 (€140),<br />

book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

BRUSSELS<br />

The Thon Hotel EU is a fi tting new<br />

addition to the array of places to stay<br />

in the nerve centre of the European<br />

Union. Since it opened at the beginning<br />

of April, hundreds of diplomats have<br />

come through its doors to enjoy one<br />

of the 405 rooms, attracted, no doubt,<br />

by the idea of a four-star hotel that<br />

prioritises the needs of its business<br />

customers. Conference facilities here are<br />

top-notch and can accommodate up to<br />

300 people. There are also 10 meeting<br />

rooms, video-conferencing facilities<br />

and an open-air terrace that can host<br />

working lunches for 60. From €67, book<br />

at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

VIENNA<br />

It’s the striking red and black décor that<br />

distinguishes the Amedia Hotel Wein<br />

GENEVA<br />

Close to both the airport and business<br />

district, this huge hotel was made for<br />

meetings and greetings. In terms of on-site<br />

facilities, the hotel can host up to 1,200<br />

people, while those who prefer to do<br />

business in the outdoors can network on<br />

one of the surrounding golf courses. From<br />

€118, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

Thon Hotel EU is within<br />

easy walking distance<br />

of most of the<br />

European Institutions<br />

from other recent openings. The chain<br />

hotel debuted in the late spring and<br />

now offers 187 guest rooms with free<br />

WiFi, fi ve conference rooms, a Wellness<br />

area with steam bath and sauna, and<br />

underground parking in the heart of<br />

the Landstrasse commercial district.<br />

It all makes for another convenient<br />

destination for the urban traveller. From<br />

€62, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

TRAVELLER | 41


THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

Tram<br />

Experience<br />

BRUSSELS<br />

Expect a menu that’s miles above the<br />

usual rail-refreshment trolley fare when<br />

you board this real-life moveable feast.<br />

In a converted tram that sets off<br />

from Place Poelaert, this unique<br />

experience sees diners tucking into<br />

Michelin-starred Belgian cuisine as they<br />

take a two-hour tour of the city.<br />

It’s all part of the tourist board’s<br />

Brusselicious year, which has seen a<br />

series of culinary events taking place in<br />

the Belgian capital over recent months.<br />

The three-course seasonal menu,<br />

along with the chef, changes every<br />

couple of weeks, so guests are<br />

guaranteed a unique meal.<br />

On our visit, Korean-Belgian<br />

Michelin-starred chef Sang-Hoon<br />

Degeimbre, of L’air du Temps, served up<br />

a cracking selection of country classics<br />

Lúa<br />

MADRID<br />

Manuel Domínguez must like a<br />

challenge. As chef and owner of<br />

Madrid’s newest dining hotspot, Lúa,<br />

he has taken the decision to change the<br />

menu every week. Diners can choose<br />

from either a set three- or fi ve-course<br />

selection, and the full tasting menu<br />

includes a welcome appetiser of lentil<br />

and boletus foam.<br />

It’s already a big hit with food-savvy<br />

locals, who fl ock to the modern dining<br />

room as much for the views afforded<br />

over the city through fl oor-to-ceiling<br />

windows as the delicious fare.<br />

Back in the kitchen, Domínguez is<br />

guided by what produce is in season<br />

and these ingredients are meticulously<br />

reworked into Iberian-French haute<br />

cuisine. The inspiration for his wellthought-out<br />

dishes comes from his<br />

mother and grandmother’s recipes from<br />

the Galician town of Ourense. Main<br />

42 | TRAVELLER<br />

with a contemporary twist. The kiwi<br />

and oyster amuse-bouche, a child of<br />

molecular gastronomy, was an unlikely<br />

but winning combination, while the<br />

mussels and chips were a real joy.<br />

For most of May, Thierry Theys,<br />

not yet 30 and already at the helm<br />

of two-Michelin-starred restaurant<br />

courses include a delicate, candied roast<br />

piglet served with stewed peaches.<br />

The food’s presentation is what you<br />

would expect from a Michelin-starred<br />

chef who draws in his spare time – the<br />

chocolate ice-cream dessert decorated<br />

with berries and a sugar sculpture is<br />

akin to some magnifi cent coral from the<br />

Naunce will be in charge of surprising<br />

your palate. Be sure to make a<br />

reservation because the 34 covers in the<br />

tram are proving very popular.<br />

A three-course meal with Champagne<br />

and wine costs €75 per person. Place<br />

Poelaert; visitbrussels.be<br />

Gaspard Sebag<br />

sea. Yet, despite this attention to detail,<br />

Domínguez still pops out regularly to<br />

speak to guests and make sure everyone<br />

is enjoying this grand experience.<br />

Full tasting menu, €49. 5 Paseo<br />

Eduardo Dato; tel: +34 913 952 853,<br />

restaurantelua.com<br />

Scott Adams


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ZRĆE BEACH IS THE CLUBBING WORLD’S BEST-KEPT SECRET<br />

SUPERSTAR DJS know a good party<br />

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Pag was once a sleepy fi shing island,<br />

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The two main clubs on Zr ć e are Club<br />

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FEATURES | BERLIN<br />

THE HEADY DAYS OF THE WEIMAR REPUBLIC ESTABLISHED BERLIN AS A PLACE<br />

WHERE ANYTHING GOES, AND THAT’S ALSO THE CASE TODAY, THANKS TO ITS<br />

LIBERTINE NIGHTLIFE. THIS IS NOT JUST A PARTY TOWN, HOWEVER – IT’S ALSO A<br />

MAGNET FOR ARTISTS, CULTURE HEADS AND DIGITAL-MEDIA TYPES. BUT WHERE<br />

TO GO? WE ASKED FIVE LOCAL EXPERTS TO GIVE US THEIR GUIDED TOURS<br />

PAUL SULLIVAN GUENTHER SCHWERING<br />

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO<br />

Berlin


THE CLUB KING<br />

DJ SCUBA<br />

In a city where nearly everyone claims to<br />

be a DJ, you have to make quite a mark<br />

to stand out. And Paul Rose, aka Scuba,<br />

does just that. Founder of Hotfl ush<br />

Recordings, one of the most cuttingedge<br />

electronic labels in the world, Rose<br />

relocated from London to Berlin in<br />

2007 and he’s never looked back. “What<br />

the clubs reminded me of immediately<br />

is how London was in the mid-1990s,"<br />

he says. "They’ve got that combination<br />

of being really laid-back but intensely<br />

hedonistic, which is completely different<br />

to how London is now. Clubs here can<br />

run as long as they want, which means<br />

people go out a lot later and stay out a<br />

lot later.”<br />

In 2008, Scuba started what has<br />

become one of Berlin’s most famous club<br />

nights, SUB:STANCE, at legendary<br />

nightclub Berghain. And despite being<br />

busy with gigs, running his label and<br />

remixing, he recently found time to<br />

release his third album, Personality, a<br />

genre-spanning journey across dance<br />

music. It's all in a day's (or night's) work.<br />

“What the clubs<br />

reminded me<br />

of immediately<br />

is how London<br />

was in the<br />

mid-1990s”<br />

SCUBA ON<br />

NIGHTLIFE<br />

FEATURES | BERLIN<br />

A-TRANE<br />

One of the best places to catch<br />

live jazz in Berlin (above). It’s also<br />

a good excuse to check out the<br />

west of the city, which has a very<br />

diff erent vibe from the east. (105<br />

Pestalozzistrasse; a-trane.de)<br />

BECKETT'S KOPF<br />

This hidden bar (look for the picture<br />

of author Samuel Beckett and ring<br />

the doorbell to get in) has a seasonal<br />

drinks menu, but the barman knows<br />

his way round an Old Fashioned too<br />

(64 Pappelallee; becketts-kopf.de).<br />

CLUB DER VISIONAERE<br />

A nice spot by the river with great<br />

DJs (usually techno) and surprise<br />

guests. Perfect for summer evenings<br />

or after-hours clubbing (1 Am<br />

Flutgraben; clubdervisionaere.com).<br />

HORST<br />

They put on some really interesting<br />

nights at Horst, from hip hop to<br />

dubstep and beyond, pushing<br />

the musical boundaries in a way<br />

that’s not so common in Berlin<br />

(1 Tempelhofer Ufer; horst-krzbrg.de).<br />

BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR<br />

The obvious choice, but still the<br />

best club in the world. If you can’t<br />

make it for a SUB:STANCE night,<br />

which are on occasional Fridays,<br />

the best time to go is on a Sunday<br />

morning (Am Wriezener Bahnhof;<br />

berghain.de).<br />

TRAVELLER | 47


FEATURES | BERLIN<br />

THE FOOD BLOGGER<br />

LUISA WEISS<br />

Berlin-born chef and writer Luisa<br />

Weiss is one of the city’s best-loved<br />

foodies. Since 2005 she has run<br />

the popular Wednesday Chef blog<br />

(thewednesdaychef.com), penning<br />

excellent recipes and food news from the<br />

city. More recently, her blog, Berlin On<br />

A Platter, has become the place to read<br />

about her food discoveries, ranging from<br />

hole-in-the-wall Asian restaurants, to<br />

new grocery stores and green markets.<br />

48 | TRAVELLER<br />

“I guess I use food and cooking as a way<br />

of making sense of little things in my<br />

life,” she says.<br />

With one parent in the USA, Luisa<br />

spent 10 years in NYC before moving<br />

back to Berlin in 2009. Her writings<br />

have grown so famous that she recently<br />

inked a deal for a “food memoir”. The<br />

book, called My Berlin Kitchen: A Love<br />

Story (with Recipes), will be published<br />

by Viking in September.<br />

“I guess I use food and<br />

cooking as a way of making<br />

sense of little things in my life”<br />

WEISS ON<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

SASAYA<br />

Snag a seat at the bar of this<br />

authentic Japanese restaurant in<br />

Prenzlauer Berg (above) to watch<br />

the head chef’s hands fl y as he<br />

prepares fresh, delicious sushi – the<br />

cooked items are great too (50<br />

Lychenerstrasse; sasaya-berlin.de).<br />

IL CASOLARE<br />

This bustling Italian restaurant in<br />

Kreuzberg is run by punk-music fans<br />

and serves the only pizza in Berlin<br />

worth eating (30 Grimmstrasse;<br />

tel: +49 (0)30 6950 6610).<br />

ENGELBECKEN<br />

Come to this rustic yet elegant<br />

Charlottenburg spot for crisp,<br />

dinner-plate-sized schnitzel and<br />

delicious potato salad, just a few<br />

steps from the Lietzensee (31<br />

Witzlebenstrasse; engelbecken.de).<br />

LE PIAF<br />

An intimate, warm and unassuming<br />

French restaurant on a quiet street<br />

near the Schloss Charlottenburg.<br />

It features a rotating menu of<br />

specialities from diff erent regions of<br />

France (60 Schlossstrasse; le-piaf.de).<br />

CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS<br />

Breakfast at this stately villa just<br />

off the Kurfürstendamm is one<br />

of the nicest ways to start the<br />

weekend. If it’s warm, try to get a<br />

seat outside (23 Fasanenstrasse;<br />

literaturhaus-berlin.de).<br />

PHOTO © AHASVER


THE ART INSIDER<br />

DR THOMAS RUSCHE<br />

As a scion of the famous Rusche textile<br />

dynasty set up by his great-grandfather,<br />

it's hardly a surprise that Thomas<br />

Rusche should have sophisticated<br />

tastes. Even as a boy, he attended art<br />

auctions, exhibitions and major fairs<br />

inspired by his father, a collector of<br />

17th-century Dutch masters.<br />

Now a world-renowned art collector<br />

in his own right, for Rusche Berlin<br />

means high culture: “There are so many<br />

young and international, as well as<br />

established, artists working and living<br />

here," he says, "that for me as a collector<br />

it’s more than exciting.” An all-round<br />

aesthete, he’s also CEO of luxury fashion<br />

store SØR and has penned a bestselling<br />

sartorial book, A Well-Dressed<br />

Gentleman’s Pocket Guide, under the pen<br />

name Oscar Lenius.<br />

“In the 1920s, Berlin was one of<br />

the most important cities in Europe in<br />

terms of fashion and art. That changed<br />

with WWII and the Wall, but today<br />

Berlin has recaptured this potential. It’s<br />

a diverse metropolis that holds its own<br />

alongside cities like London or New<br />

York. It’s very distinctive and special.”<br />

FEATURES | BERLIN<br />

DR RUSCHE ON<br />

CULTURE<br />

AUGUSTSTRASSE, MITTE<br />

A street full of art and culture,<br />

as well as the iconic Clärchens<br />

Ballhaus, with great galleries,<br />

such as me Collectors Room,<br />

and a renovated former Jewish<br />

girls' school, Haus der Kunst und<br />

Esskultur (House of Art and Dining<br />

Culture) – a massive three fl oors of<br />

galleries and restaurants.<br />

OLD NATIONAL GALLERY<br />

For a change from contemporary<br />

art, visit the Alte Nationalgalerie<br />

(above) for some Old Masters (1-3<br />

Bodestrasse; smb.museum).<br />

LITERATURE HOUSE<br />

A great place for interesting<br />

readings, especially nice in<br />

summer, thanks to the lovely<br />

garden (23 Fasanenstrasse Strasse:<br />

literaturhaus-berlin.de),<br />

VOLKSBÜHNE<br />

As well as amazing theatre<br />

productions, this is a good place to<br />

watch great bands on a small scale<br />

and see exciting experimental works<br />

(Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz;<br />

volksbuehne-berlin.de).<br />

PIANO SALON CHRISTOPHORI<br />

Regular concerts with fantastic<br />

international guests from the fi eld<br />

of chamber music and jazz, and<br />

piano recitals, with concerts held in<br />

the bank buildings (8 Uferstrasse;<br />

konzertfl uegel.com).<br />

TRAVELLER | 49


FEATURES | BERLIN<br />

THE FASHION ICON<br />

CLAUDIA SKODA<br />

Claudia Skoda is one of Berlin’s key<br />

fashion veterans. In 1975, she started<br />

her label from a Kreuzberg factory. The<br />

space, which became an open house<br />

for artists and musicians, soon drew<br />

comparisons with Andy Warhol's own<br />

Factory. In 1981, she then opened her<br />

fi rst store in SoHo, New York - opposite<br />

Vivienne Westwood’s. Then, when the<br />

Berlin Wall fell in 1989, Skoda opened<br />

her fi rst German branch. “The city was<br />

isolated, so you couldn't fi nd cool, young<br />

fashion at that time,” she remembers.<br />

50 | TRAVELLER<br />

“You had to go to Amsterdam and<br />

London.” By 2000, however, all that had<br />

changed and Skoda opened a second<br />

shop in Linienstrasse, Mitte, before<br />

fi nally settling in Alte-Schönhauser-<br />

Strasse, where she now works and lives.<br />

Her current store sells Skoda’s distinctive<br />

and highly sought-after knitwear<br />

designs. “I fi nd Berlin very special<br />

because it follows its own inspirations,”<br />

she says. “The history, the art scene,<br />

the young musicians… These are what<br />

makes the city so inspiring.”<br />

SKODA ON<br />

SHOPPING<br />

TORSTRASSE<br />

Just stroll along this street, which<br />

is dirty, loud and interesting, and<br />

where everything is a bit hidden or<br />

special. It’s still original Berlin<br />

(Torstrasse, Mitte).<br />

ANDREAS MURKUDIS<br />

High-quality, very well chosen<br />

design that spans clothing,<br />

furniture, porcelain, even silver<br />

(above, 81E Potsdamer Strasse;<br />

andreasmurkudis.com).<br />

TRIPPEN<br />

You can always fi nd shoes here that<br />

you can’t fi nd anywhere else. Most<br />

are handmade in Germany – it’s a<br />

unique brand (45 Alte Schönhauser<br />

Strasse; trippen.com).<br />

STRASSE DES 17 JUNI<br />

FLEAMARKET<br />

On Saturday and Sunday, 11am-7pm,<br />

you can fi nd everything right here, in<br />

the middle of the Tiergarten, between<br />

east and west Berlin (Strasse des 17<br />

Juni; berliner-troedelmarkt.de).<br />

ZEIT FÜR BROT<br />

This new organic bakery is a<br />

great place to sit and watch the<br />

fashion people (and wannabees)<br />

passing by on the street<br />

(4 Alte Schönhauserstrasse;<br />

tel: +49 (0)30 2804 6781).


“Our aim is to create a space<br />

where people can share stories<br />

from all over the world”<br />

THE LITERARY NETWORKER<br />

SHARMAINE LOVEGROVE<br />

Berlin has a vibrant literary scene,<br />

with dozens of bookshops and regular<br />

events catering to both German and<br />

international audiences. Although<br />

it only opened in 2009, Dialogue<br />

Books (dialoguebooks.org) is at the<br />

forefront, thanks to founder Sharmaine<br />

Lovegrove. A British ex-pat, she<br />

regularly curates events, readings and<br />

happenings around the city that often<br />

take place in the coolest hotels.<br />

“Berlin is a city with countless stories.<br />

At Dialogue, our aim is to create a space<br />

where people can share stories and<br />

ideas from all over the world using an<br />

international language,” she enthuses.<br />

“When people come to our space and<br />

have engaged in a story or a discussion<br />

that they can share with others, then I<br />

am fulfi lling my goal.”<br />

Lovegrove runs literary salons at<br />

various venues from Soho House and<br />

Café Hilde to the Direktorenhaus and<br />

her Kreuzberg bookshop. She is also<br />

currently establishing Germany’s fi rst<br />

English-language literary agency.<br />

FEATURES | BERLIN<br />

LOVEGROVE ON<br />

HOTELS<br />

SOHO HOUSE BERLIN<br />

Luxury without breaking the bank,<br />

Soho House (above) is the perfect<br />

place to relax after a day bargaining<br />

at the fl ea markets or wild nights on<br />

the Berlin club scene (1 Torstrasse;<br />

sohohouseberlin.com).<br />

HÜTTENPALAST<br />

With three caravans and two<br />

Alpine huts within its indoor space,<br />

this is such a great idea and it<br />

encompasses all that is wonderful,<br />

quirky and engaging about Berlin (66<br />

Hobrechtstrasse; huettenpalast.de).<br />

PENSION BERLIN<br />

This gem of a place is super fun,<br />

kitsch – and has a fantastic host<br />

called Frank (33 Schönleinstrasse;<br />

airbnb.co.uk/rooms/181160).<br />

CIRCUS APARTMENTS<br />

Über-stylish and ideally located, these<br />

apartments are the latest addition<br />

to the ever-reliable Circus franchise<br />

(84 Choriner Strasse; circus-berlin.de).<br />

NHOW HOTEL<br />

If you’ve come for the legendary<br />

music scene, this high-concept<br />

hotel, with its focus on music,<br />

fashion and art, will hit the<br />

right note (3 Stralauer Allee;<br />

nhow-hotels.com).<br />

easyJet fl ies to...<br />

Berlin from 37 destinations.<br />

See our insider guide on<br />

page 110. Book online at<br />

easyJet.com<br />

TRAVELLER | 51


KETCHUP TEXT BY WIL GRIFFITHS, PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRETT FOURIE. BURGER STYLING XENIA VON OSWALD, PHOTOGRAPHY ANIA WAWRZKOWICZ<br />

A-Z THE BEST WAY TO SAMPLE THE FLAVOUR OF A CITY IS THROUGH<br />

ITS STREET FOOD. WHETHER IT COMES FROM AGE-OLD RECIPES OR<br />

NEW INNOVATIONS, THE CHOICE TODAY IS VAST, SO JOIN US FOR A<br />

TRULY GASTRONOMIC TOUR OF OUR NETWORK


A is for arancini<br />

They <strong>may</strong> be Sicily’s favourite snack,<br />

but these saffron-fl avoured rice balls,<br />

which are fi lled with ragù, rolled in<br />

breadcrumbs and then fried, have<br />

spread far and wide. Portable, fi lling<br />

and delicious, they’re the ultimate<br />

street food. In Palermo, you can’t get<br />

much better than Bar Touring (15<br />

Via Lincoln; bartouring.it); while<br />

in London, try Arancini Brothers’<br />

Factory Café (115 Kentish Town Road;<br />

arancinibrothers.com).<br />

B is for bifanas<br />

Describing a bifana merely as a pork<br />

sandwich does not do this delicious<br />

Portuguese snack justice. Creating<br />

good bifanas takes time. Slices of<br />

meat are simmered in white wine,<br />

dripping, garlic, mustard and spicy<br />

red pepper to create a tender fi lling<br />

for white rolls. They’re usually eaten<br />

at football matches and festivals. Try<br />

one at Cervejeria da Berlenga<br />

in Lisbon (35 Rua Barros Queirós;<br />

tel: +351 21 342 2703), near Rossio.<br />

54 | TRAVELLER<br />

C is for Catherine<br />

Kilgour<br />

A freelance food writer by day,<br />

Catherine Kilgour spends her<br />

weekends in a vintage Land Rover,<br />

wowing gastro geeks with her<br />

hearty wild Scottish fare as one<br />

half of Wild Rover Food. “We want<br />

game, like venison and pigeon, to<br />

become accessible on street level,”<br />

she says. You’ll fi nd her at the<br />

RSPB Scottish Bird Fair on 19-20<br />

May in Edinburgh. To fi nd out her<br />

movements, see wildroverfood.com.<br />

There’s a dish for<br />

every palate and<br />

pocket in<br />

Marrakech’s market<br />

“We want game,<br />

like venison<br />

and pigeon, to<br />

become accessible<br />

on a street level”<br />

D is for Djemaa el Fna<br />

When dusk falls in Marrakech, the<br />

city’s vast market becomes the largest<br />

open-air restaurant in the world. Try<br />

a bowl of harira, a tomato and lentil<br />

soup with beef or chicken, seasoned<br />

with ginger, pepper and cinnamon;<br />

add a sandwich served in khobz, a<br />

small, round, fl at loaf, fi lled with deepfried<br />

slices of liver dribbled with green<br />

chilli sauce; or a tajine of any variety,<br />

cooked with raisins, prunes and<br />

almonds. Yummy. visitmorocco.com<br />

E is for Eat Street<br />

At Eat St’s<br />

lunchtime market<br />

by King’s Cross,<br />

London, you might<br />

have hot dogs,<br />

Piedmont-style off al<br />

sandwiches or pork<br />

rolls with hot sauce<br />

Nobody has done more to promote<br />

British street food than Petra Barran,<br />

the brains behind the Choc Star truck<br />

and founder of Eat St. This collective<br />

of traders runs a mouth-watering<br />

lunchtime market outside London’s<br />

King’s Cross station from Wednesday<br />

to Friday. Highlights include pork rolls<br />

at The Rib Man, Piedmont-style offal<br />

sandwiches at Tongue ‘n Cheek and<br />

world-beating franks at Big Apple Hot<br />

Dogs. King’s Boulevard; eat.st


PHOTOS © ALAMY, GETTY, PAUL SWOLTZ PHOTOGRAPHY , SCOTT WILLIAMS,<br />

F is for falafel<br />

It’s amazing to think that chickpeas<br />

can cause controversy, but in the<br />

Middle East, debates rage over where<br />

to get the best falafel. In Amman, visit<br />

the legendary Hashem (opposite Cliff<br />

Hotel, Alamir Mohamed Street); in Tel<br />

Aviv, Hakosem’s (1 Shlomo HaMelech)<br />

are drenched in coriander sauce; while<br />

in Egypt the dish is called tameya<br />

and made with broad beans – make<br />

for the fast-food Gad outlets in<br />

Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh.<br />

G is for gyro<br />

Sure, it’s a kebab, but Greece’s<br />

quintessential snack is a world away<br />

from the greasy, slightly suspectlooking<br />

wrap found on British high<br />

streets. Marinated pork, beef or<br />

chicken is slow-roasted on a spit<br />

before being cosseted in soft pita<br />

and liberally doused with tzatziki.<br />

You’ll fi nd vendors on street corners<br />

throughout the Hellenic isles, while<br />

Athens’ locals swear by the quality of<br />

the outlets in Monastiraki Square.<br />

H is for hhot<br />

dog<br />

Forget New Nordic cuisine for a<br />

minute – Copenhagen’s love of<br />

hot dogs is unrivalled. The many<br />

wagons across the city include døp,<br />

which serves 100% organic dogs by<br />

the Round Tower. Other must-try<br />

sausages across the network include<br />

the Pražská klobása (Prague sausage),<br />

available from stalls in that city’s<br />

Wenceslas Square, and the currywurst<br />

phenomenon in Berlin, where Curry36<br />

(36 Menringdamm) is hard to beat.<br />

I is for islak burger<br />

According to Turkish folklore, nobody<br />

has ever consumed an islak (wet)<br />

burger when sober. Sure, they’re<br />

greasy, garlicky and radioactively<br />

orange with tomato sauce, but these<br />

strange delights of mysterious origin<br />

are indubitably delicious, regardless of<br />

whether you’ve already visited some of<br />

the Taksim district’s numerous bars.<br />

They’re sold 24 hours a day from a<br />

shouty man at the Kizilkayalar stand<br />

in Istanbul’s Taksim Square.<br />

TRAVELLER | 55


J is for jalebi<br />

In Indian culture, sweets are part<br />

of all celebrations, but jalebis<br />

– pretzel-shaped coils of batter<br />

deep-fried and dipped in syrup – are<br />

the real taste of childhood. Sold hot<br />

from the pan at stalls like Jalebi<br />

Junction (93 Southall Broadway)<br />

in west London, and with the syrup<br />

sticking to the bag they’re served in,<br />

they’ll take you back to watching the<br />

saris swirl at a Delhi wedding, even if<br />

you’ve never been east of Vienna.<br />

K is for Kristin<br />

Frederick<br />

56 | TRAVELLER<br />

Kristen Frederick,<br />

below on right,<br />

brought her upscale<br />

burgers to Paris<br />

Given Parisians’ distaste for all<br />

foods fast, the city’s itinerant burger<br />

queen must be doing something<br />

extraordinarily right. Loyal French<br />

followers brave long lines for her €10<br />

gourmet burger/frites fi x, especially<br />

the juicy BBQ patties with onion<br />

rings and homemade sauce. “It’s<br />

a novelty for French taste buds,”<br />

explains Frederick, an American<br />

ex-pat whose “a-ha” moment<br />

(“upscale food trucks are the<br />

future”) came while working at a<br />

two-star restaurant in her native<br />

LA. Last November she imported<br />

the concept to Paris, where her van<br />

moves around daily. Her website<br />

reveals where. lecamionquifume.com<br />

L is for lángos<br />

Back when families baked their own<br />

bread in Hungary, a little piece of the<br />

dough was snipped from the end to<br />

make a snack. Today, the recipe for<br />

lángos has been embellished: it’s now<br />

a golden disk of fried potato dough<br />

topped with garlic, sour cream or<br />

grated cheese (or all three). For many,<br />

no shopping trip is complete without<br />

a taste and Budapest’s best can be<br />

found for about a euro at Bosnyák tér,<br />

a neighbourhood market.<br />

European street<br />

food has its roots<br />

in cheap, fi lling<br />

fare for labourers<br />

and peasants<br />

M is for meatballs<br />

Sweden’s street-food staple,<br />

köttbullar (meatballs), are enjoying<br />

a renaissance. At Stockholm’s Sibylla<br />

kiosks and Malmö’s Möllevångstorget<br />

area, locals devour beef versions<br />

with gusto, while restaurants like<br />

Tranan (tranan.se) serve them in<br />

the bar. They’ve also gone upmarket<br />

at Prinsen (restaurangprinsen.eu)<br />

and there’s even a posh veal version<br />

at Michelin-starred Matsalen in the<br />

Grand Hotel (grandhotel.se).


PHOTOS © ALAMY, GETTY<br />

N is for nieuwe haring<br />

In the same way that the French await<br />

the arrival of the Beaujolais nouveau<br />

each year, so the Dutch anticipate<br />

the arrival of the nieuwe haring (new<br />

herring) at the end of spring. After<br />

thorough cleaning and preservation in<br />

salt, the fi sh are served raw, garnished<br />

with onions and sweet pickles from<br />

vans all over Amsterdam, like the<br />

revered family-run Stubbe’s Haring,<br />

at the end of the Singel canal near<br />

Amsterdam Centraal station.<br />

O is for offal<br />

European street food has its roots in<br />

cheap, fi lling fare for labourers and<br />

peasants – which is where offal comes<br />

in. Nerbone, in Florence’s Mercato<br />

Centrale, has sold lampredotto, a<br />

stomach sandwich, since 1874; in<br />

Istanbul, try kokoreç, an intestine and<br />

sweetbread kebab, at the Kral Kokorec<br />

stand (54C Büyük Postane Cadisi);<br />

and in Tel Aviv, have the mixed grill<br />

at Sima (24 Harbaa Street): hearts,<br />

livers, spleen and lamb in fl atbread.<br />

P is for panzarotti<br />

Standing in line with well-dressed<br />

businessmen and hungry shoppers<br />

outside Luini (16 Via Radegonda) in<br />

central Milan, you could be forgiven<br />

for thinking that these fried dough<br />

crescents are a local speciality. Not<br />

so – the city has Giuseppina Luini<br />

to thank for bringing the recipe<br />

from her native Puglia back in 1949.<br />

Traditionally stuffed with tomato and<br />

mozzarella, panzarotti also come with<br />

other fi llings, both savoury and sweet.<br />

Q is for qassatat<br />

The aromas that hit you as you<br />

wander down back streets of Maltese<br />

towns are proof the inhabitants love<br />

pastry. Qassatat – crunchy round<br />

shells of short-crust pastry fi lled with<br />

ricotta cheese, peas or spinach – come<br />

top of their list. You’ll fi nd them in<br />

pastizzerijas and cafés across the<br />

country. Sink your teeth into the best<br />

ones at Crystal Palace, just outside the<br />

mdina in Rabat and the Nadur bakery<br />

(St James Street) on Gozo.<br />

TRAVELLER | 57


WORDS TREVOR BAKER, CAROLYN BANFALVI, ROSIE BIRKETT, JO CARUANA, STUART FORSTER, NICK HODGE, SARAH LANE, CORINNE LABALME, MATTHEW LEE, KIMBERLEY LOVATO, CHLOE SCOTT, MARK SMITH, DEREK WORKMAN<br />

R is for rösti<br />

Consisting of just two ingredients<br />

(grated potato and goose fat or<br />

butter), rösti, the Swiss national dish<br />

has to be one of the most simple<br />

street foods there is. Add a fried egg,<br />

sausage or cheese and it becomes a<br />

meal. Hasenburg (20 Schneidergasse)<br />

in Basel is known as rösti heaven,<br />

serving a dozen different varieties.<br />

Also try Czech bramborack, cooked<br />

in lard, and Bavarian kartoffelpuffer,<br />

made with sour cream and eggs.<br />

S is for Sister Gee<br />

Marti Burgess, aka Sister Gee, is a<br />

Bristol institution. A trained lawyer,<br />

she owns the city’s seminal nightclub,<br />

Lakota. But it’s on weekend evenings<br />

that she causes a real stir: she runs<br />

a jerk shack in her club’s car park<br />

(6 Upper York Street), serving spicy<br />

chicken that has food purists trekking<br />

from miles around. The recipe comes<br />

from her grandmother, a descendant<br />

of Jamaica’s runaway slave families,<br />

but that’s not the only reason her<br />

offering is more authentic – and<br />

delicious – than most. “Serving<br />

rice, peas and jerk together is a<br />

travesty,” opines Burgess. “Jerk is a<br />

method – they would use wood, not<br />

coal – and it’s served with cocoa bread<br />

and plantain salad.”<br />

58 | TRAVELLER<br />

Sister Gee’s jerk<br />

chicken is as<br />

authentic – and<br />

delicious – as you’re<br />

likely to fi nd this<br />

side of Kingston<br />

T is for Tubby Isaacs<br />

Paul Simpson’s family has run east<br />

London seafood stall, Tubby Isaacs<br />

(tubbyisaacs.co.uk), for 93 years.<br />

Alongside whelks, cockles and mussels,<br />

the jellied eels – a dish enjoyed in this<br />

part of town since the 18th century –<br />

are rightly the star attraction. They’re<br />

chopped, boiled in water and vinegar,<br />

and left to cool, a process during<br />

which they form their own jelly. You’ll<br />

fi nd the stalls at Petticoat Lane and<br />

Walthamstow markets.<br />

The French have<br />

been peddling<br />

vegetarian street<br />

food in the form<br />

of crêpes forever<br />

U is for USA<br />

Europeans and Asians had street food<br />

long before the USA, but credit where<br />

it’s due – Americans made it cool.<br />

Pioneers like Big Gay Ice Cream in<br />

New York and Kogi BBQ (right) in LA<br />

used trucks to showcase their talents,<br />

and Facebook and Twitter to spread<br />

the word. It’s a winning formula that<br />

has already spread to London, and<br />

other European cities are catching<br />

on – the Vatos Taco (vatos-tacos.com)<br />

truck in Berlin is a great example.


PHOTOS © ALAMY, BIG FAT GAY ICE CREAM, GETTY, ERIC SHIN<br />

V is for vegetarian<br />

Stalls like London’s Whole Food<br />

Heaven (wholefoodheaven.co.uk),<br />

near Old Street, and Berlin’s Sun<br />

Day Burgers at the Mauer Park<br />

Flea Market in Prenzlauer Berg, are<br />

tapping into a new appetite for meatfree<br />

treats. Of course, the French have<br />

long peddled veggie street food in the<br />

form of crêpes, along with buckwheat<br />

galettes in Brittany and Nice’s socca<br />

– chickpea crêpes. Good to know that<br />

street food’s not all offal.<br />

W is for waffl e<br />

This batter-based, crenellated treat is<br />

practically synonymous with Belgian<br />

food. As any connoisseur will tell<br />

you, the Liège version is a Brussels<br />

favourite for good reason. Gooey and<br />

doughy, with a caramelised sugar<br />

coating and chunks of pearl sugar<br />

inside, Liège waffl es are best eaten hot<br />

off the irons from carts set up near<br />

tourist sites, like the Grand Place, and<br />

at open-air markets, such as the one<br />

held on Saturdays at Place Dumon.<br />

X is for xa xiu<br />

Xa xiu, the barbecued pork fi lling of<br />

a banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich),<br />

has become hugely popular on the<br />

continent. It’s been available in<br />

Paris for many years in Belleville<br />

Chinatown, in the city’s 20th<br />

arrondisement. In London, fantastic<br />

xa xiu banh mi can be found at the<br />

Banh Mi 11 stall on Berwick Street,<br />

while the newly opened Babanbè deli<br />

(2 Oranienplatz) has introduced the<br />

spicy sandwich to hungry Berliners.<br />

Y is for Yemenite<br />

Israel’s favourite comfort food comes<br />

from an unlikely source – Yemen,<br />

with snack recipes brought with<br />

the Jews when they left the Arabian<br />

Peninsula. There’s jachnun, a baked,<br />

rolled pastry eaten with tomato and<br />

eggs; and malawach, a fried pancake<br />

eaten with eggs, honey and – if you’re<br />

feeling brave – chilli sauce. To sample<br />

this cuisine in Tel Aviv, head to the<br />

Yemenite neighbourhood of Kerem<br />

HaTeymanim past the Carmel Market.<br />

Z is for zapiekanka<br />

Once dusk has fallen, your best bet for<br />

a bite in Krakow is this humble dish,<br />

the favoured nosh of students, boozers<br />

and assorted late-night cruisers.<br />

It’s basically a long chunk of bread,<br />

chucked under the grill, and fi nished<br />

with cheese, shrooms and a sprinkling<br />

of chives. Meaty extras are popular<br />

too. The legendary, mustachioed Mr<br />

Endzior has punters queuing round<br />

the block for his concoctions at the<br />

roundhouse on Krakow’s Plac Nowy.<br />

TRAVELLER | 59


FEATURES | LISBON


JAMES STEWART ELIZABETH GIBSON<br />

FEATURES | LISBON<br />

THE PORTUGUESE TOWN OF ERICEIRA IS SAID TO HAVE BEACHES AND BREAKS LIKE<br />

NOWHERE ELSE. AS IT REVELS IN THE LIMELIGHT OF BEING NAMED EUROPE’S FIRST<br />

DESIGNATED SURFING RESERVE, WE VISITED FOR A SWELL PERSPECTIVE


FEATURES | LISBON<br />

A FEW YEARS BACK, surf megabrand Billabong<br />

came up with a new advertising slogan. Written<br />

beneath an image of sun-drenched, fl awless waves,<br />

the words, “Only a surfer knows the feeling”, seemed<br />

to capture the thrill of gliding across moving walls of<br />

water. Right now, I’m beginning to wonder whether it<br />

could equally refer to another emotion: fear.<br />

It’s a bright crisp morning and pulses of clean swell<br />

from a long-distant storm are pumping into Coxos bay<br />

near Ericeira, 50 minutes’ drive from Lisbon. Every<br />

few minutes, a larger wave looms in the open Atlantic,<br />

jacks up in the shallows, then detonates on a reef that<br />

62 | TRAVELLER<br />

mingled with tousle-haired surfers at a dedication<br />

ceremony. “This is a magical place,” said Will Henry,<br />

founder of Save The Waves Coalition, the non-profi t<br />

organisation that established the reserve programme<br />

in 2009 to safeguard the world’s best surf spots.<br />

Without doubt, the Ericeira region has the fi nest<br />

surf coast of continental Europe, reckons Luke Budd,<br />

South African shaper (ie, maker) for local surfboard<br />

manufacturer Board Culture. “I’m from Durban – the<br />

Golden Mile, home break of some surfi ng legends,” he<br />

says, “but within 10 to 15 minutes’ drive from here are<br />

four or fi ve world-class surf locations. That’s unique<br />

“Within 10 to 15 minutes’ drive from here<br />

are four or fi ve world-class surf spots”<br />

edges the bay, unfurling almost mechanically in a roar<br />

of galloping foam. A chorus of hoots erupt from local<br />

surfers whenever someone claws over the lip of one of<br />

these monsters and rips across the face.<br />

In surf slang, Coxos is ‘going off’. The waves are<br />

easily double-overhead (that’s surfer talk for 2m),<br />

often larger. Of the 20 or so riders strung along the<br />

foreshore, I am the furthest from the take-off zone<br />

– the bottom of the pile in surfi ng hierarchy – and<br />

that suits me fi ne. Every surfer has had their nerves<br />

shredded by the power of the ocean at some point.<br />

Well, mine are in tatters now. It shouldn’t really come<br />

as a surprise: Coxos is the most celebrated break of the<br />

most celebrated surf spot in Europe.<br />

Back on 14 October last year, over 40 surfers<br />

paddled out into the sea at Ribeira d’Ilhas beach<br />

to mark Ericeira’s accreditation as Europe’s fi rst<br />

World Surf Reserve – one of only four such reserves<br />

worldwide. Later, military brass and politicians<br />

and it makes this a playground for advanced surfers,<br />

but also good for learners, because the water is quite<br />

warm, even in winter.”<br />

This coast is battered by everything the Atlantic<br />

can hurl, from knee-high ripples to extraordinarily<br />

big waves, such as the 30m wall of water ridden by<br />

Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara just north of<br />

Ericeira last November. Couple that with suitable<br />

geology – fl at reefs jut from the cliffs that sawtooth<br />

this coast, creating the perfect conditions for big waves<br />

– and you have surf nirvana. Within the World Surf<br />

Reserve area – a 4km stretch from Empa Bay on the<br />

outskirts of Ericeira to São Lourenço beach – are at<br />

least nine reef breaks, with something, it must be said,<br />

for every level of surfer.<br />

It’s eight years since my last visit and in that time<br />

the town has acquired a sheen of surfi ng cool. Its<br />

core remains a knot of historic lanes above the<br />

harbour, but beyond the fi shermen’s houses you’ll


FEATURES | LISBON<br />

Clockwise from<br />

top left, a father<br />

and son prepare<br />

to surf; everyone<br />

can fi nd their<br />

ideal wave at<br />

Ericeira;<br />

surf-school<br />

owner Ulisses<br />

Reis (on left) with<br />

friend; taking a<br />

break on the<br />

beach<br />

TRAVELLER | 63


FEATURES | LISBON<br />

now fi nd the largest Quiksilver store in Europe, as<br />

well as fi ve other surf shops and over 30 surf schools.<br />

The Ecosound eco-resort nearby, with its charming<br />

wooden lodges, and the Vila Galé 4-star hotel are a<br />

sure sign the area has embraced the 21st century. In<br />

fact, it’s now possible to book the whole caboodle –<br />

accommodation, surf lessons, guide – all together<br />

through SurfHolidays (surfholidays.com).<br />

Everyone in Ericeira recognises the value of<br />

surfi ng now, even the local council, says Ulisses<br />

Reis, 48-year-old owner of Blue Ocean Surf School<br />

(ericeirablueocean.blogspot.co.uk). Ulisses is my guide<br />

to the waves he has surfed since the late 1970s. Heady<br />

days, when Portuguese surfi ng was in its infancy and<br />

surfi ng was a byword for counter-culture. “It was<br />

beautiful here 35 years ago, man,” he says wistfully.<br />

“We would camp behind the beach for three months<br />

over summer – no responsibilities, no job, just a<br />

smoke, some drinks.... Australians and Americans<br />

would come up from Morocco in VW Kombis and<br />

sell us boards. There would be 10 guys out max,<br />

sometimes none. Just beautiful, man.”<br />

I’m quietly relieved that we decide against riding<br />

the fi rst wave we visit, Pedra Branca at Praia da<br />

Empa. Not only is it large and fast, but the way the<br />

swell slops onto the nearby rocks suggests you’d pay<br />

for a mistimed take-off with a brutal pummelling. So<br />

we cross a headland towards Ribeira d’Ilhas. White<br />

lines are peeling across the bay as we round the cliff.<br />

This is the approachable face of the surf reserve, yet it<br />

still packs a punch. The swell is heavier than it looks<br />

and rip currents pull across the bay. Finally a peak<br />

approaches: shoulder high, a tiddler by local standards.<br />

I turn, the board skims as the wave rears, then I’m<br />

riding across a clean face that unfurls lazily right.<br />

Elation does not begin to cover it.<br />

64 | TRAVELLER<br />

Of course, fame has its downsides. Up to 100 surfers<br />

can crowd Ribeira when small summer waves allow<br />

any wannabe in a wetsuit to have a go. A madhouse in<br />

August, says one local surfer. I expect Ulisses to add to<br />

the grumbles that Ericeira’s new cachet will only make<br />

things worse. Instead, he welcomes the prestige – and<br />

the fact it gives locals a degree of power in protecting<br />

the area. If the World Surf Reserve was only good for<br />

surfers, there would be little political interest. Now<br />

that visiting boarders mean holiday bucks for the local<br />

economy too, the surf community is charged with<br />

policing the area – making sure nothing is done to<br />

jeopardise the reserve status, which can be withdrawn<br />

at any time.<br />

If Ribeira has the fame, Coxos has the kudos. Over<br />

the next headland, at the end of a dirt track, it isn’t<br />

much to look at – not that anyone comes for looks.<br />

“Coxos is sagrada, man. You know, sacred, like God,”<br />

Ulisses says. “No one messes with Coxos. I’ve taken<br />

people out here – good, advanced surfers – and they<br />

got chewed by this wave.” Coxos holds triple, even<br />

quadruple-overhead waves. Crazy Left, Coxos’s mirror<br />

on the opposite side of the bay, is equally unforgiving.<br />

The next morning in Ericeira, clean lines are<br />

wrapping around the harbour wall. Not big, a local<br />

reassures, so I grab my board and return to pay<br />

homage to Coxos. ‘Big’, it turns out, is subjective, which<br />

is how I come to be at the end of a line-up, wishing<br />

discretion had been the better part of valour. A surf<br />

guidebook describes the wave here as “unforgiving,<br />

powerful and humbling on big days – always fun”.<br />

Only a surfer knows that feeling.<br />

easyJet fl ies to...<br />

Lisbon from 20 destinations. See our insider<br />

guide on page 142. Book online at easyJet.com


FEATURES | LISBON<br />

LISBON BASICS<br />

THE CITY BY NUMBERS<br />

POPULATION<br />

547,631<br />

(IN GREATER LISBON<br />

ALMOST 3 MILLION)<br />

66 | TRAVELLER<br />

LAND AREA<br />

84.8km 2<br />

NUMBER OF RESIDENT<br />

FOREIGNERS<br />

21,435<br />

NUMBER OF HILLS<br />

7<br />

SUNNY DAYS PER YEAR<br />

252<br />

NUMBER OF CRUISE SHIP<br />

PASSENGERS IN 2011<br />

502,644<br />

HIGHEST POINT<br />

227m<br />

711<br />

The one-time Roman<br />

metropolis of Felicitas<br />

Julia is seized by<br />

Muslim forces made up<br />

of Arabs and Berbers.<br />

It stays under their rule<br />

for over 400 years.<br />

THE LISBON TIMELINE<br />

1147<br />

After a three-month<br />

siege led by Afonso<br />

Henriques, the fi rst<br />

king of Portugal, the<br />

city of some 154,000<br />

citizens is reconquered<br />

by Christian forces.<br />

HAVE A WORD (OR TWO)<br />

Although it is, of course, a Latin-based language, Portuguese is defi nitely not a<br />

variety of Spanish. It <strong>may</strong> not be an easy language to master, grammatically or<br />

phonetically, but more than 240-million people speak it as a fi rst language.<br />

THANK YOU<br />

OBRIGADO (FOR MEN); OBRIGADA (FOR WOMEN)<br />

HOW MUCH DOES THIS COST?<br />

QUANTO CUSTA ISTO? (KWANTO KOOSHTA ISHTO?)<br />

YES<br />

SIM (SING)<br />

MAYBE<br />

TALVEZ (TALVAIJ)<br />

GOOD MORNING<br />

BOM DIA (BONG DEEYA)<br />

GOOD AFTERNOON<br />

BOA TARDE (BOA TARD)<br />

GOOD NIGHT<br />

BOA NOITE (BOA NOYT)<br />

SEE YOU LATER<br />

ATÉ LOGO (TAY LOG)<br />

1497<br />

Vasco da Gama<br />

departs from what<br />

is now Belém on a<br />

momentous voyage<br />

that leads to his<br />

discovery of the sea<br />

route to India.<br />

NO<br />

NÃO (NAONG)<br />

GOODBYE<br />

ADEUS (ADEYUSH)<br />

1755<br />

At 10am on<br />

1 November, the city<br />

is destroyed by a huge<br />

earthquake, followed<br />

by fi res and a tsunami,<br />

which kill at least<br />

40,000 people.<br />

1908<br />

On 1 February, King<br />

Carlos I and his heir are<br />

murdered in Praça do<br />

Comércio. This regicide<br />

is the catalyst for the<br />

nation becoming a<br />

republic two years later.


WORDS JONATHAN WEIGHTMAN | PHOTO © ALAMY | MAP ILLUSTRATION © JASON PICKERSGILL/ACUTEGRAPHICS.CO.UK<br />

GETTING<br />

AROUND<br />

Lisbon <strong>may</strong> be fairly compact, but it<br />

is hilly. To avoid too much climbing,<br />

use the excellent network of metros,<br />

buses and trams. A one-day travel<br />

card costs €4.50 from any station.<br />

BELÉM<br />

An area that escaped the 1755<br />

earthquake. Among its many jewels<br />

is the gothic Jerónimos Monastery<br />

(mosteirojeronimos.pt) and the Belém<br />

Cultural Centre (ccb.pt), with its<br />

famed Berardo modern art collection.<br />

BAIRRO ALTO<br />

A 17th-century grid of narrow streets<br />

that’s now one of the most vibrant<br />

centres for both gay and straight<br />

N<br />

BELÉM<br />

1926<br />

A military coup d’état in<br />

Lisbon overthrows the<br />

wobbling Portuguese<br />

First Republic, starting<br />

the longest dictatorial<br />

regime in Europe. It<br />

lasts for 48 years.<br />

1974<br />

On 25 April 1974, a<br />

military-led coup gives<br />

the country’s colonies<br />

independence and<br />

Portugal becomes<br />

a parliamentary<br />

democracy.<br />

nightlife in the city. It has loads of bars,<br />

restaurants, boutiques and a seriously<br />

lively street scene.<br />

ALFAMA<br />

Dominated by St George’s Castle,<br />

and with a medieval street plan, this<br />

working-class neighbourhood still has<br />

a strong whiff of the old Lisbon.<br />

THE BAIXA<br />

Located between the stunning<br />

waterfront square of Praça do Comércio<br />

and the Rossio, Lisbon’s downtown<br />

area was built in the late 18th century<br />

and is the city’s main shopping district.<br />

PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES<br />

Once an industrial wasteland, this<br />

riverfront area has been transformed: it<br />

now boasts the Oceanarium (oceanario.<br />

pt) and a casino (casinolisboa.pt), plus<br />

many restaurants and shops.<br />

LISBON<br />

ALFAMA<br />

BAIRRO ALTO<br />

THE BAIXA<br />

PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES<br />

1998<br />

Lisbon stages Expo<br />

’98, the last World’s<br />

Fair of the millennium,<br />

leading to the building<br />

of an entirely new<br />

neighbourhood called<br />

Parque das Nações.<br />

1km<br />

2004<br />

The city co-hosts the<br />

European Football<br />

Championships, which<br />

involves building two<br />

new stadiums. Portugal<br />

reaches the fi nals, but<br />

loses to Greece.<br />

FEATURES | LISBON<br />

MUSICAL HERITAGE<br />

LISBON HAS ITS very own version of<br />

the blues. Called fado, which means<br />

fate, these often-tragic musical<br />

laments are about love, loss and<br />

longing. Its exact roots are unknown,<br />

but fado is believed to have existed in<br />

its present form since the early 19th<br />

century. Traditionally performed by<br />

a singer and two musicians, one on a<br />

10-string Portuguese guitar, the other<br />

on a six-string Spanish guitar, fado<br />

achieved international fame in the<br />

1950s and 60s with the great Amália<br />

Rodrigues. Despite falling out of favour<br />

after the 1974 revolution, it has made<br />

a triumphant comeback: the 2007<br />

fi lm Fados, directed by Carlos Saura,<br />

celebrated the music, while last year it<br />

was even added to the UNESCO World<br />

Heritage List. There are many places<br />

to hear the music around Lisbon, from<br />

impromptu amateur performances in<br />

neighbourhood bars, including Tasca<br />

do Jaime (91 Rua da Graça; tel: +351<br />

21 888 1560), to swishy professional<br />

joints, such as Senhor Vinho (18 Rua<br />

do Meio à Lapa; tel: +351 21 397 2681).<br />

2007<br />

The Treaty of Lisbon,<br />

which lays down new<br />

guidelines for the<br />

governance of the<br />

European Union, is<br />

signed in Belém on<br />

13 December.<br />

TRAVELLER | 67


FEATURES | NANTES<br />

A Cadre Noir riding master<br />

and his horse performing<br />

the extraordinary capriole,<br />

which involves having all<br />

four legs off the ground<br />

and then kicking out with<br />

the back legs<br />

68 | TRAVELLER


High<br />

and<br />

Mighty<br />

WHEN IT COMES TO AWE-INSPIRING DISPLAYS<br />

OF EQUESTRIAN SKILL, FEW CAN MATCH THE<br />

CADRE NOIR. WE WENT TO ITS FRENCH BASE<br />

FOR A RARE TREAT: HAVING A GO OURSELVES<br />

MARIE CLELAND KNOWLES<br />

FEATURES | NANTES<br />

THERE’S THE TWITCHING OF muscles, the creak<br />

of leather and the tang of sweat as the athlete poises,<br />

ready for the jump. Rocking back and forth, he waits<br />

for the signal, and then his legs shoot out behind him<br />

as he lifts himself several feet in the air, landing on<br />

the springy ground of rubber and sand moments later<br />

with effortless grace. He lets out a satisfi ed snort,<br />

followed by a short whinny as his trainer pats him on<br />

the head.<br />

As you’ve probably guessed, this is no mere human<br />

entertainer. Laozi d’Orion is one of the horse world’s<br />

top performers and it’s my rare privilege to sit on his<br />

back while he takes a break from his gravity-defying<br />

repertoire of leaps and kicks. The tension is palpable as<br />

this mass of raw power and highly tuned senses waits<br />

for the next command from his trainer, and I can sense<br />

he has me pinned as an amateur. To him, no doubt,<br />

I give off the unmistakable whiff of fear.<br />

The anxiety is not so much what he could do to me,<br />

but what I might do to him. One wrong pull of the<br />

reins and I feel like a learner driver crunching the<br />

gears of a Ferrari. After all, it’s taken Laozi d’Orion 10<br />

years of training to get where he is, not to mention an<br />

investment of hundreds of thousands of euros.<br />

I’m here as a guest of the Cadre Noir, an elite<br />

TRAVELLER | 69


PHOTOS © CORBIS, GETTY<br />

FEATURES | NANTES<br />

group of 37 of France’s fi nest riding masters. They<br />

train and mentor other top riders to become teachers<br />

throughout France, and some compete in dressage at<br />

Olympic level. What they’re best known for, however,<br />

are their spectacular equestrian feats. Performing<br />

around the world, their shows are packed with tricks<br />

that are literally leaps and bounds above what most<br />

horses and riders can do.<br />

Anyone can book a tour of the Saumur centre, 150km<br />

west from Nantes, and see one of the regular shows,<br />

but what makes my experience unique is the chance<br />

to actually ride one of these graceful creatures. For<br />

a horse lover, this is a thrilling experience and I love<br />

every minute of it – even though we never exceed a trot.<br />

As I dismount and hand the reins back to Laozi<br />

d’Orion’s rider, I soak up the atmosphere of the<br />

school. Behind the stiff, black uniforms and frowns of<br />

concentration, the riding masters embody decades of<br />

accumulated discipline and expertise. They’re a living<br />

heritage that started as a means to protect a nation<br />

and became a symbol of its sporting prowess.<br />

During the Napoleonic Wars, France’s main defence,<br />

its cavalry, was decimated. To protect the country’s<br />

future, the military had to pick itself up and get<br />

back in the saddle, so it turned to France’s top riding<br />

schools – Versailles, St Germain and the Tuileries – for<br />

help. Horses and riders who had previously striven<br />

to impress the French monarchs with their equine<br />

showmanship were hand-picked for a new life, based<br />

in Saumur in the Loire Valley.<br />

The focus of these soldiers’ training would be the<br />

haute école (high school), honing their horses’ natural<br />

kicking and jumping abilities into movements that<br />

could help the cavalry outwit the enemy in battle. This<br />

classical training includes the courbette, rearing up on<br />

the hind legs; the croupade, in which the horse jumps<br />

straight up with all four legs off the ground; and the<br />

hugely impressive capriole, jumping off the ground<br />

and kicking out with the back legs.<br />

The school opened in 1828 and the Cadre Noir was<br />

born. As a symbol of the riding masters’ responsibilities,<br />

they were kitted out in black (noir), rather than the blue<br />

of their pupils. For more than a century, this elite corps<br />

was the pride of the French military. Then, after World<br />

War II, the cavalry was fazed out, but it wasn’t over for<br />

the Cadre Noir. The elite troop found a new arena when,<br />

in 1972, it joined up with France’s National Horse<br />

Riding School to tap into the growing popularity of<br />

recreational and sports riding.<br />

The Saumur centre is not the only riding centre in<br />

Europe that still practises and teaches the haute école<br />

– in fact, there are four. The Spanish Riding School<br />

in Vienna – the name comes from the Spanish origin<br />

of the Lipizzaner horse it breeds and trains – is also<br />

from a military background, but it’s better known<br />

70 | TRAVELLER<br />

The journey to become a<br />

Cadre Noir riding master<br />

is an arduous one


Clockwise from left,<br />

As well as dressage,<br />

the Cadre Noir trains<br />

its horses to jump;<br />

the dancing horses<br />

grace the cover of<br />

Paris’s illustrated<br />

daily paper in 1923;<br />

the Cadre Noir on<br />

parade in Versailles,<br />

1983; our lucky writer<br />

Marie Cleland<br />

Knowles on Laozi<br />

d’Orion at the Cadre<br />

Noire centre in<br />

Saumur, France<br />

FEATURES | NANTES<br />

for its performances. At the Portuguese School of<br />

Equestrian Art – established by King João V in 1748<br />

to breed Lusitano horses for use in the bullfi ghting<br />

ring – the same haute école skills are employed, but<br />

for a different purpose. The newest school, the Royal<br />

Andalusian School of Equestrian Arts, founded in<br />

Jerez de la Frontera in 1973, also prepares riders for<br />

international sporting competitions. Its mission,<br />

however, is to preserve the Andalusian horse, which,<br />

thanks to its fl owing mane and elegant gait is often<br />

used in fi lms. The Cadre Noir uses Selle Français and<br />

Anglo-Arab breeds for their strength and stamina.<br />

Of all the schools, Saumur’s has the most extensive<br />

grounds and I’m lucky enough to receive an extensive<br />

tour on my visit. Set in beautiful countryside, with the<br />

Loire river fl owing nearby, the centre has 300 hectares<br />

of stables, arenas and tracks – and with 400 animals<br />

in training at any one time, there is a constant bustle<br />

of riders and horses.<br />

The latter start their classical training at the age of<br />

four. By the time the horse is six, its riding master will<br />

have decided its speciality, and only the strongest will<br />

perform the haute école “airs” (high jumps).<br />

I’m exhausted just watching, but to actually become<br />

a Cadre Noir riding master is a seriously arduous<br />

task. Candidates have to be under 30 to take the<br />

entrance examination, but their résumé will already<br />

read something like this: three years at university,<br />

four years training as a riding teacher under the Cadre<br />

Noir, experience working as a riding teacher and<br />

sporting acclaim at an international level. Only then<br />

can they sit the rigorous test, during which they will<br />

also be judged on their motivation and ability to work<br />

as part of a team. Once qualifi ed, each riding master<br />

will then spend up to eight hours a day in the saddle.<br />

Aside from the fatigue of long hours spent training,<br />

the riders also face the constant threat of injury. The<br />

fast, fl icking movements of the horse, and the heights<br />

to which they leap demands precision and many years<br />

of experience on the part of the rider.<br />

But that’s why it makes for such a spectacular show –<br />

and I’m treated to one such demonstration later that<br />

day. Even with the adrenalin still pulsing through me<br />

from my close encounter with Laozi, it’s a spellbinding<br />

sight to watch horse and rider stride into the arena in<br />

perfect time to classical music. And guess what? My<br />

anxiety disappears completely. I’m caught up in the<br />

magic of the dance.<br />

Tours of the Cadre Noir complex are held Monday to<br />

Saturday, with a one-hour performance on selected<br />

Thursday and Saturday mornings. cadrenoir.fr<br />

easyJet fl ies to...<br />

Nantes from 6 destinations. See our insider guides<br />

on pages 161. Book online at easyJet.com<br />

TRAVELLER | 71


Kourian’s Greco-Roman<br />

theatre was built in the<br />

2nd century, but opera<br />

and Shakespeare plays<br />

are still produced here<br />

today because of the<br />

excellent acoustics<br />

72 | TRAVELLER


HEAD TO CYPRUS FOR SAND, SEA AND A DOSE OF SERIOUS<br />

HISTORY IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SUN<br />

FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />

HE WEARS Hat, D.S. Dundee, £79; cardigan, The Kooples, £175; shorts, Zara, £25.99; shoes, Canali, £330; glasses, Cutler & Gross, £299<br />

SHE WEARS Glasses, Cutler & Gross, £299; scarf, Paul Smith, £105; blouse, The Kooples, £125; jeans, Monsoon, £45;<br />

sandals, Boss Black, £189; bag, Tommy Hilfi ger £200<br />

OLIVER PILCHER CAROLE FRENCH<br />

FASHION BY NINO BAUTI<br />

TRAVELLER | 73


FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />

This page and opposite<br />

Dating from the<br />

Hellenistic and Roman<br />

periods, the Tombs of the<br />

King site has more than<br />

100 tombs, all handcarved<br />

from the rock<br />

WHILE A BREAK to Cyprus promises all the treats of<br />

your usual top-notch Mediterranean destination – you<br />

can relax around a pool, chill in a harbourside taverna<br />

or revitalise at a luxurious spa – it also provides the<br />

chance for something more unique: visitors can play at<br />

being a real-life Indiana Jones.<br />

The Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Ottomans and<br />

even the British have all had periods of rule here over<br />

the past 10,000 years, and that legacy is still in evidence<br />

at world-famous archaeological sites around the island.<br />

Paphos is a UNESCO site in its entirety, famed for its<br />

Tombs of the Kings, mosaics that dominate the harbour<br />

74 | TRAVELLER<br />

area, and the tiny Agia Kyriaki church, where St Paul is<br />

said to have been lashed for preaching Christianity.<br />

The coastline east towards Limassol and Larnaca<br />

is awash with historical treasures too: Palaipafos at<br />

Kouklia is meant to be where the ancient goddess<br />

Aphrodite held court, while Petra tou Romiou is,<br />

famously, her birthplace. It doesn’t stop there: you<br />

can visit the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates, Kourion’s<br />

mighty clifftop theatre and the enchanting Kolossi<br />

Castle and plenty more besides. It all adds up to one<br />

thing: a seaside holiday where you might actually<br />

learn something.


HE WEARS Above Hat, D.S. Dundee, £79; glasses, Cutler & Gross, £299; shirt, H&M, £24.99; bag, Paul Smith, £245; trousers, Zara, £29.99; shoes, D.S. Dundee, £175;<br />

tie, The Kooples, £75; notebook, Mulberry, price on request. Previous page Trilby hat, Paul Smith, £79; bag, D.S. Dundee, £199; vest, CK underwear, £30; shirt, Tommy<br />

Hilfi ger, £85; belt, Paul & Joe, from £90; trousers, Tommy Hilfi ger, £115; boots, Stylist own; gardening gloves, Amazon, £4.95<br />

SHE WEARS Hat, Monsoon, £18; shirt, G-Star RAW, £65; scarf, Paul Smith, £105; jeans, Monsoon, £45; belt, Tommy Hilfi ger, £45;<br />

gloves, G-Star RAW, £69; wedges, L.K Bennett, £175<br />

FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />

TRAVELLER | 75


FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />

76 | TRAVELLER


Left Sheltering from the<br />

sun behind the Kourion’s<br />

Greco-Roman theatre;<br />

right The Tombs of the<br />

Kings are best explored in<br />

the morning when the<br />

temperature is cooler<br />

KOURION<br />

The highlight of a visit to the<br />

Kourion archaeological site is,<br />

without doubt, its Greco-Roman<br />

theatre. Built in the 2nd century<br />

BC by the Greeks, it regularly<br />

played host to 3,500 or more<br />

spectators. The acoustics created<br />

by the steepness of the semicircular<br />

tiered seating means that<br />

even those at the back can hear<br />

the performers’ words booming<br />

back, which is surely why opera<br />

and Shakespearean plays are<br />

still performed here today. Once<br />

a commercial, cultural and<br />

religious hub, the ancient citykingdom<br />

of Kourion can trace<br />

its history back more than 5,000<br />

years. You can see the remains<br />

of the agora (the central meeting<br />

place) and many homes and<br />

churches, including a triple-aisled<br />

cathedral and a remarkably wellpreserved<br />

building with arches<br />

and chapels that would have<br />

been the bishop’s palace. Nearby,<br />

the remains of a wealthy noble’s<br />

home, the House of Eustolios,<br />

contains some of the fi nest<br />

mosaics on the island.<br />

The best way to reach the site<br />

(also spelled Curium) is to head<br />

out of Paphos by car towards<br />

Limassol for about 40 minutes<br />

and then follow the signposts.<br />

FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />

HE WEARS Above Panama hat, Paul Smith, £130; glasses, Ray Ban, £135; neck-tie, Wrangler, £50; bag, D.S. Dundee,<br />

£199; chinos, Topman, £34; vest, Topman, £7; gardening gloves, Amazon, £4.95; boots, stylists own; Previous page<br />

Hat, stylist’s own; sunglasses, Ray Ban, £135; top, Tommy Hilfi ger, £60; shorts, Gap, £32.95; boots, stylist’s own<br />

SHE WEARS Headscarf, The Kooples, £70; sunglasses, Cutler & Gross, £299; shirt, Paul Smith, £110; shorts,<br />

Tommy Hilfi ger, £100; belt, Tommy Hilfi ger, £45; gloves, G-Star RAW, £69; sandals, Toast, £95; backpack,<br />

Belen Echandia, £425; bangle, Pebble London, £45<br />

TRAVELLER | 77


FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />

78 | TRAVELLER<br />

HE WEARS Opposite page Panama hat, Paul Smith, £130; glasses, Ray Ban, £135; neck-tie, Wrangler,<br />

£50; bag, D.S. Dundee, £199; chinos, Topman, £34; vest, Topman, £7; gardening gloves, Amazon,<br />

£4.95; boots, stylist’s own<br />

SHE WEARS Shirt, Zara, £39.99; military-style jacket, Tommy Hilfi ger, £150; belt, Paul & Joe, £120;<br />

trousers, Zara, £35.99, gloves, G-Star RAW, £69<br />

Right Panoramic view of<br />

the distinctive Corinthianstyle<br />

columns found at<br />

the Temple of Apollo<br />

Hylates (also above);<br />

opposite page The Tombs<br />

of the Kings is a maze of<br />

courtyards and ancient<br />

stairwells<br />

TEMPLE OF APOLLO<br />

The Temple of Apollo Hylates<br />

(or Ylatis, as it’s also known) can<br />

be found a fi ve-minute drive<br />

from Kourion on the south coast.<br />

It was once one of the most<br />

magnifi cent religious shrines in<br />

Cyprus, a place of worship and<br />

refuge. Even today, as you stroll<br />

through the ruins, there is a sense<br />

of calm here. Worshippers came<br />

to honour Apollo, god of the sun,<br />

as far back as the 8th century BC<br />

and brought with them offerings,<br />

such as terracotta fi gurines.<br />

These would have been placed in<br />

a votive pit, the remains of which<br />

can still be seen in the gardens of<br />

the temple complex today.<br />

The present temple is Roman<br />

and stands on the site of much<br />

earlier structures. You can see the<br />

remains at the end of an ancient<br />

cobbled street that passed, south<br />

to north, through the sanctuary<br />

complex. The original temple<br />

would have been a mighty<br />

structure. Today, you can still<br />

fi nd there the tall unfl uted<br />

Corinthian-style columns topped<br />

with elaborate architraves that<br />

would have surrounded an inner<br />

cella (small chamber) housing the<br />

cult fi gure of Apollo. They give<br />

a great idea of how it would have<br />

looked in early Roman times.


FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />

TRAVELLER | 79


FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />

TOMBS OF THE KINGS<br />

Dating from the Hellenistic<br />

and Roman periods of around<br />

325BC to 330AD, the Tombs<br />

of the Kings site was a triumph<br />

of architectural design in its<br />

heyday. The 100 or so tombs<br />

and chambers have been hewn<br />

from solid rock by hand and<br />

are typical of the period’s style.<br />

Most are well-preserved, with<br />

fashionable features like Doric<br />

columns, script-like carvings<br />

and courtyards. Look carefully<br />

and you’ll see wall frescos that,<br />

although a tad faded now, once<br />

depicted scenes of everyday life in<br />

brilliant shades of blue and red.<br />

The necropolis was dubbed<br />

the Tombs of the Kings in<br />

recognition of its rich design.<br />

In fact, Paphos nobles and high<br />

ranking offi cials were buried<br />

here, rather than kings. The site<br />

can be found just off the seafront<br />

heading from Paphos harbour<br />

towards Coral Bay and is a great<br />

place to explore, especially in the<br />

morning when the temperature<br />

is cooler. The open-top<br />

CitySightseeing (city-sightseeing.<br />

com) bus leaves the harbour and<br />

stops here several times a day.<br />

PHOTOGRAPHER Oliver Pilcher<br />

FASHION DIRECTOR Nino Bauti<br />

PICTURE ASSISTANT Thomas Steventon<br />

HAIR & MAKE-UP Abigail McGrath<br />

MODELS David Frampton, Joel Frampton<br />

Ramona Chmura (nextmodels.com)<br />

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80 | TRAVELLER<br />

HE WEARS Panama hat, Paul Smith, £130; vest, CK underwear, £30; shirt, D.S. Dundee, £110; belt, Paul & Joe,<br />

£120; trousers, Zara, £39.99<br />

Above The Doric columns<br />

of the Tombs of the Kings<br />

are typical of the period it<br />

was built, c325BC-330AD;<br />

Right a sunset view of<br />

Petra tou Romiou, the<br />

beach said to be<br />

Aphrodite’s birthplace


BUSINESS | MAJORCA<br />

The far-reaching<br />

view from luxury<br />

hotel Cap Rocat<br />

82 | TRAVELLER


A<br />

DIFFER RENT<br />

VIE EW<br />

THERE IS ONLY ONE way to get a really good view<br />

of Cap Rocat. And that’s by hovering over it in a<br />

helicopter, preferably on the way to landing at this<br />

hotel’s heliport. From there, it is but a short ride in a<br />

chauffeured golf cart to the private beach or back to<br />

one of the pleasingly secluded suites.<br />

Built into the cliffs of Cap Enderrocat and<br />

overlooking the Bay of Palma, this fortress-turnedluxury-hotel<br />

has, since its opening in 2010, become a<br />

fi rm favourite with the type of traveller who favours<br />

discreet luxury above all things. Virtually invisible from<br />

sea level – a useful quality, presumably, when it was a<br />

military outpost – the place is like a fantasy dwelling,<br />

complete with drawbridge: part Spanish fi nca, part<br />

Moroccan riad.<br />

For those who associate Majorca with the package<br />

tourism boom that brought in bucket-and-spade-loads<br />

of holidaymakers in the 1970s, the fact that a place such<br />

as Cap Rocat exists here at all <strong>may</strong> come as a surprise.<br />

It shouldn’t. This Balearic isle was once the jet set’s<br />

favourite playground: in the 1950s, Hollywood starlets<br />

such as Ava Gardner and Elizabeth Taylor could be<br />

found frolicking on the pearly-white sands of the<br />

island’s northern tip. And now it’s winning back its<br />

ritzy reputation.<br />

“The island has passed from 1950s glamour to<br />

hooligan capital to ‘there’s no space for my private jet’,”<br />

says Pablo Carrington, managing director of MHM<br />

Management, which operates Cap Rocat. Of course,<br />

he’s talking with tongue fi rmly planted in cheek, but<br />

there is a broader point to be made. Cap Rocat is an<br />

SIMON KURS<br />

BUSINESS | MAJORCA<br />

LUXE HOTELS, TOP RESTAURANTS AND SOME SAVVY BUSINESS TYPES ARE<br />

HELPING MAJORCA RECLAIM ITS GLAMOROUS PAST. ABOUT TIME TOO<br />

extreme example of a whirlwind of change that is<br />

taking place here.<br />

Across the island, luxury hotels are springing up<br />

with nearly the same rapidity that high-rise blocks did<br />

in years past. There are now more than 200 fi ve- and<br />

four-star dwellings on Majorca, including 30 deluxe<br />

rural properties. And when the Jumeirah Port Sóller<br />

Hotel & Spa opened earlier this year, it signifi ed another<br />

milestone: the fi rst foray onto the island by one of the<br />

world’s most high-end chains, and a sure sign that<br />

international businesses are taking Majorca seriously.<br />

The town of Port de Sóller is further testament to<br />

this. Recently treated to an expensive refresh, this spot<br />

on the island’s overlooked north-west has had its beach<br />

widened and promenade manicured. Even Magaluf,<br />

with its concrete hotels and neon-lit bars – once<br />

synonymous with the more raucous side of tourism here<br />

– is being made over, as the Sol Melia group launches a<br />

big-money hotel redevelopment there this summer.<br />

Carrington puts the island’s renaissance down to a<br />

number of factors: “It’s two hours from every important<br />

capital in Europe, which is tremendous. Then there’s<br />

the weather, and the fact that it’s more than sea and<br />

sand – it has history and interesting cultural places.”<br />

If more evidence were needed that this is an island<br />

on the up, then a visit to Palma provides it. With a<br />

busy calendar of cultural events, many art galleries,<br />

cafés and growing parade of designer boutiques (Louis<br />

Vuitton arrived last year, Hermès is said to be coming<br />

next), it’s no surprise that it’s been dubbed the new<br />

Barcelona. Visiting as the sunshine beats down<br />

TRAVELLER | 83


BUSINESS | MAJORCA<br />

streets, there’s an unmistakable buzz – chic locals duck<br />

into smart shop fronts, while the district of La Lonja<br />

thrums with busy restaurants and tapas bars. Indeed,<br />

food is a big part of this story: seven restaurants boast<br />

Michelin stars – quite a feat for such a small place –<br />

and, in Marc Fosh, Majorca even has its own culinary<br />

poster boy. Owner of three restaurants in Palma, a<br />

cookery school and a consultancy, Fosh is the go-to<br />

name when a high-profi le event on the island needs<br />

catering, such as the Luis Vuitton opening.<br />

“There has been enormous change,” he says. “The<br />

wine industry has fl ourished, some of the world’s best<br />

olive oils are being produced here, and there’s a growing<br />

slow-food movement promoting local fruit and<br />

vegetable varieties that had almost disappeared.”<br />

Fosh opened his fl agship eatery, Simply Fosh, in<br />

2009 and the response, he says, has been terrifi c.<br />

Smart, modern and making full use of Majorca’s nowexcellent<br />

local produce, his food has, unsurprisingly,<br />

been well received. It’s not fussy, but it’s fl awlessly<br />

executed. “We decided not to over-complicate and to<br />

focus on good food at good prices,” he says. Misa, the<br />

chef’s newly-opened brasserie, is equally good value,<br />

and its vibrant take on Mediterranean classics has<br />

proved an instant hit with Palma’s new dining class.<br />

Fosh isn’t from Majorca – or Spain, for that matter.<br />

He comes from Kent, in England, but moved to San<br />

Sebastián on the Spanish mainland in 1991 and was so<br />

taken with Spain’s foodie culture that he stayed.<br />

“I knew when I arrived that something special was<br />

starting to happen in Spain. It was refreshing, because<br />

there was a certain simplicity to the food, with natural<br />

fl avours, very few ingredients on a plate and lightness.”<br />

Even then, he could see the impact Spanish cooking<br />

– such as that of a then-unknown chef by the name<br />

of Ferran Adrià – would have on gastronomy. A<br />

six-month trip to San Sebastián became a fi ve-year<br />

stay, before he headed to Majorca.<br />

Fosh also holds the impressive accolade of being<br />

the only British chef ever to have won a Michelin star<br />

in Spain, which he secured while at Majorca’s Read’s<br />

Hotel. And he’s in no doubt why the island is now<br />

buzzing. “Majorca has grown up,” he says. “Palma is<br />

84 | TRAVELLER<br />

now a really cool little city with so much going on.”<br />

Across the Balearic isle, there’s ample evidence<br />

that investors are keen to cash in on the infl ux of<br />

well-heeled visitors. Agro-tourism projects are thriving<br />

– there are now around 200 rural properties where<br />

guests can experience an authentic Majorcan way of<br />

life – and the property market is also booming. It <strong>may</strong><br />

not have reached the pre-recession levels of 2008,<br />

when house prices matched Barcelona and Madrid,<br />

but the average sale price of a residence in the island’s<br />

south-west is €1.2m, driven by great demand in the<br />

second-home market.<br />

If you want to see an area where money is really<br />

being lavished, then head to the isle’s western tip. At<br />

MOVERS AND SHAKERS Meet three of Majorca’s brightest business faces<br />

THE ISLAND CHAMPION<br />

A pioneer of agro-tourism,<br />

Joan Bonnin, 50, has spent the<br />

past 15 years showing visitors<br />

that there’s more to Majorca<br />

than sun and sand. He’s a former President of<br />

the Agroturismo Association, and now runs<br />

Casas de Son Barbassa, an agro-resort that<br />

makes it own produce, including olive oil.<br />

“Majorca has grown<br />

up. Palma is now a<br />

really cool little city<br />

with so much going on”<br />

THE COFFEE KING<br />

It’s no exaggeration to say that<br />

Juan Picornell has done more<br />

to turbo-charge café culture<br />

in Majorca than anyone. The<br />

40-year-old is behind the Cappucino chain<br />

that you’ll fi nd across the island and beyond.<br />

Infl uenced by classic Parisian cafés, his<br />

empire now stretches as far afi eld as Jeddah.<br />

THE ART NETWORKER<br />

Palma has more art spaces per<br />

head than anywhere in Europe<br />

and Eva Shakouri Torreadrado,<br />

37, is a major player. As director<br />

of La Caja Blanca gallery, she regularly brings<br />

in international artists. She also organises<br />

annual city-wide collaborations between<br />

galleries The next (Palma Photo) is in June.


Port Adriano, one of the island’s many yacht marinas,<br />

a new multimillion-euro facelift is taking place that<br />

will be fi nished just in time for the summer season.<br />

Masterminded by French designer Philippe Starck, the<br />

project includes a new commercial and leisure area,<br />

and an expanded marina that has scope to hold vessels<br />

in excess of 100m – what’s known in the trade as a<br />

gigayacht (yes, they do go that big).<br />

In some ways, this shouldn’t come as a surprise.<br />

Majorca has long been a key stopping-off point on the<br />

sailing circuit and the island has a whopping 44 ports<br />

scattered along its coast. But it’s only when you see<br />

them for yourself that you realise just what this means.<br />

Take a walk around Puerto Portals, for instance,<br />

one of the island’s most illustrious ports, and there’s<br />

an abundance of riches on show, as Sunseekers and<br />

Princesses bob up and down in the marina.<br />

It’s all rather idyllic and a world away from the kind<br />

of overbuilt coastal resort that you might expect to fi nd<br />

in Majorca. For the view alone, it’s a wonderful place;<br />

but even if your wallet doesn’t stretch to keeping a boat<br />

here, you can still make like the have-yachts at Wellies<br />

(wellies.es). This famed quayside bar is where the sailing<br />

set can be found each evening as the sun goes down –<br />

and you can join them for the price of a gin and tonic.<br />

easyJet fl ies to...<br />

Majorca from 16 destinations. See our insider<br />

guide on page 150. Book online at easyJet.com<br />

Clockwise from<br />

above, Port<br />

Adriano’s<br />

Philippe Starckdesigned<br />

facelift;<br />

once overlooked,<br />

Port de Sóller<br />

now has a<br />

Jumeirah hotel; a<br />

quayside view of<br />

Puerto Portals;<br />

Palma-based<br />

chef Marc Fosh in<br />

his Misa Braseria<br />

TRAVELLER | 85


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PROPERTY | ROME<br />

Artists’ Retreat<br />

JUST NORTH OF ROME, THE<br />

HILLTOP VILLAGE OF CALCATA<br />

HAS BEEN HOME TO A UNIQUE<br />

CULTURAL COMMUNITY FOR THE<br />

PAST 40 YEARS. AND GUESS<br />

WHAT? THEY LIVE IN CAVES...<br />

SARAH WARWICK<br />

PAOLO PORTOGHESI knows beauty when he sees it.<br />

One of Italy’s leading architects and former president<br />

of the architectural section of the Venice Biennale, he<br />

has designed many incredible buildings during an<br />

impressive career. It’s telling then, that this man who<br />

has spent his life studying great architecture has chosen<br />

to live, not in a grand palazzo in the heart of Rome, but<br />

on a simple hillside in the country, an hour’s drive north<br />

of the Italian capital.<br />

Yet, looking out at this view, it’s easy to see why. From<br />

the balcony of his living room, the 80-year-old has the<br />

perfect prospect over the tiny village of Calcata – one<br />

of the jewels of the Lazio region. From here, the place<br />

locals call il borgo (the village) looks like a tiny medieval<br />

island adrift on a wooded sea, the fl utter of pigeon<br />

wings above its rooftops reminiscent of confetti or the<br />

contents of a snow globe.<br />

It’s all very picturesque, but Calcata is also home to<br />

something else: a unique way of life. Over the past 40<br />

years, artists of all disciplines, abilities and nationalities<br />

have gravitated here and many have chosen to stay.<br />

Some, including Portoghesi, are big names – like<br />

88 | TRAVELLER<br />

Near right, a<br />

paintbox<br />

belonging to<br />

Simona Weller,<br />

one of Calcata’s<br />

resident artists;<br />

main picture,<br />

Calcata, as seen<br />

from the hill<br />

where architect<br />

Paolo Portoghesi<br />

has his house<br />

LORENZO PESCE


PROPERTY | ROME<br />

TRAVELLER | 89


SIDEBAR PHOTOS © GETTY IMAGES | DATA COURTESY IMMOBILIARE<br />

PROPERTY | ROME<br />

painter Simona Weller (the Pope numbers among her<br />

fans) and noted sculptor Constantino Morosin – while<br />

others specialise in jewellery making, pottery painting<br />

or traditional crafts. All live in unusual houses, and<br />

some even in caves, hollowed out of the tuff (volcanic<br />

rock) in pre-Roman times by the<br />

ancient Etruscans to make sacred<br />

spaces for their temples.<br />

In Calcata, culture is king. Concerts<br />

and exhibitions of all kinds are held at<br />

the local granary-turned-arts centre,<br />

Il Granarone (ilgranarone.com),<br />

attracting visitors from across Italy,<br />

while the main piazza is lined with<br />

art showrooms and workshops. In the<br />

evenings, live music plays at La Grotta<br />

dei Germogli, the rough-hewn bar in<br />

caves on the other side of the village, to<br />

denizens from around the globe.<br />

“Calcata is a microcosm of the<br />

world,” says Marijcke van der<br />

Maden, a Dutch marionette-maker<br />

who now runs Il Granarone. She<br />

introduces me to neighbours from<br />

Germany, Belgium and the USA, as<br />

well as Italy. Van der Maden herself<br />

arrived in 1984, when she was<br />

invited to host a show of her work in<br />

the village. “They said that I would<br />

like the place, as it’s small like my puppets,” she says<br />

with a smile.<br />

This unusually bohemian corner of rural Italy<br />

came about after a series of earthquakes caused the<br />

government to declare a number of villages across the<br />

country – including Calcata – unsafe to live in, and to<br />

evacuate its original inhabitants to a new town up the<br />

road. Paolo Portoghesi, originally from Rome, had come<br />

here as a youth in the 1950s, before the exodus of the<br />

original villagers. On his return in 1972, he was shocked<br />

to see that the village had been left to rot.<br />

“People had abandoned it and it became a ghost town,”<br />

he says, explaining his decision to exploit a loophole in the<br />

law and invest in a former stable up on the hill, where his<br />

impressive stone house stands today. “It was forbidden<br />

to sell the buildings, but people could still buy them,” he<br />

explains. Other people soon followed, attracted by the<br />

idea of creating a cosmopolitan retreat.<br />

“All the beautiful people came,” he says, “from<br />

aristocracy to the movie industry.” The village became a<br />

fashionable place to live or have a second home – “Stefania<br />

Sandrelli, the famous actress, lived here for many years”<br />

– it also became known for its new-age ideals. “Many of<br />

the people had certain avant-garde beliefs – ambientalists<br />

[environmentalist] and vegetarians.”<br />

Bruno and Paola, the owners of the local Rock Caffé<br />

bar (3 via Forno di Corte) are a good example of this.<br />

They moved here in the 1980s, attracted by the idea of a<br />

safe, traffi c-free place to raise their daughters. “In Calcata,<br />

90 | TRAVELLER<br />

all children are our children,” Bruno says. “If I saw a<br />

snotty nose or whatever, I would just wipe it. Why would<br />

I not? You don’t get that in Rome.”<br />

Despite the infl ux of freethinkers, Calcata was<br />

never a commune. Its 60 or so regular inhabitants live<br />

separate lives, albeit very close together. The place is<br />

tiny, a crammed knot of tightly knit lanes and archways,<br />

with a higgledy-piggledy organisation of dwellings,<br />

galleries and artists’ studios.<br />

No house in the village is the same as another. Van<br />

der Maden inhabits a mere 15m 2 , just a tiny rustic<br />

kitchenette and bed shelf, which she transformed from<br />

a disused storage area. Simona Weller’s elegant villa on<br />

the other hand, with its fi ne art, cut-glass decanters<br />

and dark wood furniture, wouldn’t look out of place in<br />

Homes & Gardens magazine. Of course the caves make


Clockwise from<br />

left, Marijcke van<br />

der Maden works<br />

on one of her<br />

puppets; the old<br />

sign at the<br />

entrance to town;<br />

local art centre<br />

Il Granarone;<br />

another of<br />

Calcata’s<br />

inhabitants<br />

enjoying the<br />

gentler pace<br />

of life here<br />

“In Calcata, all children<br />

are our children. You<br />

don’t get that in Rome”<br />

ROOMS WITH<br />

A VIEW<br />

PROPERTY | ROME<br />

Buy into the good life and<br />

a piece of history in one of<br />

Italy’s hilltop towns<br />

SAN GIMIGNANO, TUSCANY<br />

Known as Tuscany’s Manhattan for its<br />

high-rise medieval watchtowers, places here<br />

aren’t cheap, but come with real cachet.<br />

Average price per m 2 : €3,058<br />

CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO, LAZIO<br />

Like Calcata, this dramatic-looking hilltop<br />

village in the heart of Viterbo province is home<br />

to unusual properties and outstanding views.<br />

Average price per m 2 : €1,103<br />

MINERVINO MURGE, PUGLIA<br />

If mainland Italy is a foot, then Minervino is<br />

a charm on its ankle bracelet and there are<br />

bargains to be had in this medieval town.<br />

Average price per m 2 : €912<br />

TRAVELLER | 91


PROPERTY | ROME<br />

for the most unusual housing, like that<br />

owned by painter and furniture designer<br />

Enrico Abenavoli.<br />

“When I moved in, no one was<br />

living in this cave,” says Abenavoli, who<br />

explains that what is now his living<br />

room, with its elegant low sofa and<br />

tables, was once fi lled with stagnant<br />

water. Draining the caves and painting<br />

them with intricate North Africaninspired<br />

designs has given him a<br />

unique dwelling.<br />

In the early 1990s, after 20 years<br />

of campaigning, the government<br />

acknowledged that the village was<br />

not at risk of collapse and agreed to<br />

legitimise the rights of the inhabitants.<br />

In the years since, very little has<br />

changed. Indeed, it feels like a life<br />

unaltered for centuries. It’s so quiet at<br />

night that owls can be heard hooting<br />

in the countryside below, where<br />

villagers plant gardens and grow their<br />

vegetables. Afternoons can be spent<br />

enjoying a cup of tea on the sundrenched<br />

terrace at La Sala dei 201<br />

Thé (tel: +39 0761 589 415), the local<br />

teashop, with its undulating ceramic<br />

roof spackled with ancient lichen.<br />

At dusk, stone benches provide the<br />

location for a nightly gossip, friends<br />

and neighbours calling ciao across the<br />

darkening piazza.<br />

It <strong>may</strong> seem idyllic, but it has its<br />

drawbacks. “It’s not an easy life,” says<br />

Belgian-born Gemma Uyttendaele, who has been<br />

running La Sala for 21 years. “We have no shops here.<br />

Everything we need we get from outside and bring up.”<br />

In winter, the stone is cold and the valley winds are<br />

bitter. This February, 1.5m of snow fell.<br />

And, as in many places across Italy, the recession has<br />

had an impact. Many of the unusual houses – most of<br />

them the second homes of Romans feeling the pinch –<br />

are up for sale or rent, with neon posters announcing<br />

vendesi (for sale) on weathered façades. Although<br />

not going cheap – van der Maden estimates €2,000<br />

per m 2 is the going price – it is giving outsiders a rare<br />

chance to invest in an unusual location and a piece of<br />

the local dolce vita. She hopes the village gets the new<br />

blood it needs. “It needs some investment, a little bit of<br />

renovation,” she says ruefully.<br />

On a more positive note, however, the recession has<br />

also brought money to the village. As fewer Romans<br />

can afford holidays, they are spending more on day<br />

trips. Catering for the burgeoning visitor numbers, local<br />

chef Mario’s cosy Ristorante Graal (9 via Garibaldi) is<br />

popular for his handmade cavatelli with porcini and<br />

truffl es, ’nduja (Calibrian chilli sausage) on bruchetta<br />

92 | TRAVELLER<br />

Above,<br />

Calcata’s main<br />

piazza; right,<br />

Gemma<br />

Uyttendaele in<br />

La Sala, the<br />

Calcata<br />

teashop she’s<br />

run for over<br />

20 years<br />

and Montepulciano wine, pressed by Mario himself.<br />

For a much-needed nap after dinner, or those who<br />

want to stay a night, there are B&Bs – and van der<br />

Maden rents out a small apartment that has its own<br />

claim to fame, having housed Juliette Binoche during<br />

the 2004 fi lming of Mary, an Abel Ferrara fi lm. The<br />

French actress, star of Chocolat, is famously reclusive,<br />

and she is certainly no stranger to village life (at least in<br />

her fi lms). No doubt she loved it here, in this magical<br />

place. The only surprise is that she didn’t end up staying.<br />

easyJet fl ies to...<br />

Rome from 27 destinations. See our insider<br />

guide on page 170. Book online at easyJet.com


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A-Z | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

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A-Z<br />

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29 countries in europe<br />

and beyond<br />

98 | TRAVELLER<br />

Madeira<br />

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ICELAND<br />

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ESTONIA<br />

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TURKEY<br />

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GREECE<br />

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NEW<br />

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TRAVELLER | 99


100 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Aberdeen<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London<br />

(LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £20.<br />

The Jet 727 runs<br />

every 30 minutes<br />

directly to the bus<br />

station. From 4.30am,<br />

tickets: £3 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Sand Dollar Café<br />

(2 Esplanade, Sea<br />

Beach, tel: 01224<br />

572 288) Perched<br />

on Aberdeen’s<br />

picturesque beach<br />

front, the Sand Dollar<br />

Café attracts locals<br />

and visitors with its<br />

homemade delicacies<br />

and friendly service.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Cinnamon (476 Union<br />

Street, tel: 01224<br />

633 328) A cut above<br />

your average Indian,<br />

Cinnamon creates<br />

exquisite dishes and<br />

each recipe has been<br />

inspired by traditional<br />

ingredients. Go for the<br />

irresistible Indian tapas<br />

to ensure you get the<br />

best of both worlds.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Siberia<br />

(9 Belmont Street)<br />

Siberia is a lively<br />

local bar. Complete<br />

with beer garden,<br />

pool table and an<br />

extensive library of<br />

board games, this is<br />

defi nitely a place to<br />

visit with friends.<br />

Food is served daily.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Society Bar and<br />

Restaurant (150<br />

Union Street, tel: 01224<br />

633 460) The newly<br />

refurbished Society<br />

boasts an extensive<br />

drinks menu including<br />

a delicious cocktail list<br />

– try the African Sunset<br />

Mojito. Most weekends<br />

a saxophonist plays,<br />

adding to the bar’s<br />

seductive ambience.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO First opened in<br />

1883, Duthie Park<br />

is of great historical<br />

signifi cance. The<br />

original Victorian<br />

bandstand is still<br />

regularly used today<br />

by busking musicians.<br />

The park also boasts<br />

an impressive rose<br />

mountain with over<br />

120,000 roses and the<br />

winter gardens<br />

are considered the<br />

largest covered<br />

gardens in Europe<br />

(Polmuir Road).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Kirk of St Nicholas<br />

houses the largest<br />

carillon in Britain,<br />

consisting of 48 bells.<br />

Beverley Tricker<br />

Agadir<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, London<br />

(LGW), Lyon, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about MAD200.<br />

Route 22 to<br />

Inezgane runs<br />

every 40 minutes.<br />

From there take a bus<br />

to Agadir.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Restaurant Daff y (2<br />

Rue des Orangiers, tel:<br />

0528 820 068) Don’t<br />

be daff y by missing<br />

this popular little<br />

restaurant with its very<br />

aff ordable traditional<br />

Moroccan fare.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Rugantino (Plage<br />

d’Agadir, Centre Ville,<br />

tel: 0528 841 425)<br />

Rugantino off ers<br />

Italian cuisine, with<br />

specialities including<br />

fresh fi sh and woodfi<br />

red pizzas. Dine in<br />

style at this prime site<br />

on the seafront.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

O Gourmet (Marina,<br />

tel: 0528 848 023)<br />

Located at the<br />

marina, this stylish<br />

bar-restaurant is<br />

the perfect spot<br />

from which to watch<br />

the sunset. With a<br />

tempting selection of<br />

cakes, pastries and<br />

ice-cream sundaes.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Atlantic Palace (Hotel<br />

Atlantic Palace, Secteur<br />

Balneaire, tel: 0528<br />

843 366) Enjoy an<br />

evening at the superb<br />

Hotel Atlantic Palace.<br />

Take your pick from<br />

the casino, restaurant<br />

or disco with top DJs,<br />

comedians and<br />

variety acts.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The strong waves<br />

off Morocco’s Atlantic<br />

coast provide a great<br />

day for surfers. Even if<br />

you’re a beginner, hire<br />

a surfboard and pay for<br />

some lessons. Anchor<br />

Point and Devil’s Rock<br />

near Taghazout are<br />

popular spots.<br />

Anne Imisliou<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Tree-climbing<br />

goats in Morocco?<br />

Watch out for this<br />

spectacular activity<br />

where goats actually<br />

climb the Argan<br />

trees in search of<br />

nuts, which are used<br />

to make to oil.<br />

Alicante<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

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Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />

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FROM THE<br />

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TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

An airport bus<br />

to Alicante goes<br />

to the bus and railway<br />

stations, from where<br />

connections can be<br />

made to other resorts.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 D’els<br />

Artistes (6 Plaza de<br />

la Iglesia, tel: 96 584<br />

1269) A delightful<br />

venue set in the old<br />

quarter of Altea,<br />

where Swiss chef<br />

Roland Broggi cooks<br />

traditional French<br />

dishes with his own<br />

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coquilles Saint-Jacques<br />

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turbot in morels sauce.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Il<br />

Giardino d’Altea (21<br />

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Vieja, tel: 965 846 688)<br />

This classy restaurant<br />

is housed in a spacious<br />

Yorkshire Pride has been building up an excellent reputation as a fantastic place<br />

to eat in Benidorm for the past 16 years. It has become so popular as a home<br />

from home that there is now Yorkshire Pride 1, 2 and 3. Holidaymakers return<br />

year after year seeking the restaurant’s great home-cooked traditional l English<br />

dishes at affordable prices. Owners Tad and Lesley provide entertainment ment<br />

every night with the Tad Cocker Band. They also own ‘Bar Why Not’<br />

situated on the Calle Gerona which has karaoke every night.<br />

Tel: +34 966804932 or +34 649788887<br />

villa set amid tropical<br />

gardens. Choose the<br />

pâté de foie gras, roast<br />

venison, succulent rack<br />

of lamb, chateaubriand<br />

or the house speciality:<br />

sea bass cooked in<br />

packed salt.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar<br />

Ipanema (34 Avenida<br />

de Albir) Located on<br />

the main thoroughfare<br />

of Albir as it winds its<br />

way to the beach, this<br />

venue is the ideal place<br />

for people-watching.<br />

Grab a table on the<br />

pavement and enjoy<br />

the evening breeze.<br />

Relax with a glass<br />

of wine or brandy<br />

while you watch the<br />

world go by.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Heroes (La Cala de<br />

Finestrat, tel: 667 581<br />

864) This popular<br />

spot off ers live<br />

entertainment and<br />

a supporting cabaret<br />

from 9.30pm.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Travel south of<br />

Alicante to Torrevieja<br />

for the month-long<br />

Feria de Mayo, started<br />

by an exiled Andalusian<br />

bar owner in 1988. The<br />

fi esta is staged on the<br />

Torrevieja fairground<br />

and celebrates all<br />

things Andalusian,<br />

including fl amenco<br />

music, traditional<br />

costumes and<br />

Andalucian horses.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Spain produces 44<br />

per cent of all the<br />

world’s olive oil.<br />

Danny Collins<br />

• Live Music<br />

• Karaoke<br />

• TV Screens<br />

• Pool Tables<br />

• Major Sport Events


T H E W O R L D O F P E R S O N A L N U M B E R P L A T E S<br />

I AAW<br />

I ABF<br />

I AFR<br />

I AKC<br />

ALK I<br />

I ATT<br />

I BBR<br />

I BBW<br />

I BDO<br />

I BEO<br />

I BEP<br />

BEZ I<br />

BFF I<br />

I BFN<br />

BJK I<br />

BJT I<br />

I BJV<br />

I BKM<br />

I BND<br />

I BWF<br />

I CAY<br />

I CCO<br />

CFD I<br />

CFF I<br />

I CHD<br />

I CHG<br />

I CJV<br />

I CKW<br />

I CNK<br />

I CNL<br />

CO I<br />

I CPJ<br />

I CRT<br />

I CSE<br />

I CSF<br />

CST I<br />

I CT<br />

CTK I<br />

I CVD<br />

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DAO I<br />

I DBM<br />

I DCR<br />

DDF I<br />

I DDW<br />

I DFR<br />

I DFT<br />

I DHV<br />

DKP I<br />

I DSE<br />

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I DVJ<br />

I DWR<br />

I DYB<br />

I EAA<br />

EBK I<br />

EBM I<br />

I EBN<br />

I EBR<br />

I EBU<br />

I EBW<br />

I EBY<br />

I ECD<br />

I ECL<br />

I EDC<br />

I EDK<br />

I EED<br />

I EEF<br />

I EEO<br />

I EFA<br />

I EFE<br />

I EFO<br />

I EFR<br />

I EGL<br />

I EHB<br />

I EHD<br />

I EHF<br />

I EHP<br />

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I EPR<br />

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I ESW<br />

I ETP<br />

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FBB I<br />

I FCF<br />

I FCJ<br />

I FDW<br />

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I FET<br />

I FHC<br />

I FHG<br />

I FHH<br />

FJP I<br />

I FJT<br />

I FKK<br />

I FKP<br />

I FNC<br />

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FOR I<br />

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I FTP<br />

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I GBM<br />

I GCE<br />

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I HHF<br />

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HHW I<br />

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I KBD<br />

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I LPV<br />

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I LUJ<br />

I MDO<br />

I MFT<br />

I MGR<br />

I MHJ<br />

I MKF<br />

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I MNF<br />

I MNG<br />

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I MVS<br />

MWC I<br />

I MWG<br />

I NBA<br />

I NBK<br />

I NBN<br />

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I NEF<br />

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I NFB<br />

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I NFT<br />

I NGD<br />

I NHD<br />

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I NLL<br />

I NLP<br />

I NLW<br />

I NMO<br />

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I NYK<br />

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I RGO<br />

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I SBF<br />

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I TCO<br />

TCT I<br />

I TDK<br />

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I TER<br />

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I UL<br />

I UT<br />

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I VAD<br />

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I VCA<br />

I VCM<br />

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VGL I<br />

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VOB I<br />

I VPR<br />

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I WAA<br />

I WAF<br />

I WAJ<br />

WBB I<br />

I WBK<br />

WC I<br />

I WCD<br />

I WCG<br />

I WCP<br />

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I WE<br />

I WEA<br />

WFP I<br />

I WGC<br />

I WGG<br />

WGK I<br />

I WGL<br />

WJB I<br />

I WJJ<br />

I WKF<br />

I WKS<br />

I WLC<br />

I WNA<br />

I WNC<br />

I WPW<br />

I WRM<br />

I WRP<br />

I WSE<br />

I WSG<br />

I WSJ<br />

I WSK<br />

I WTK<br />

WVA I<br />

I WVM<br />

I WWD<br />

I YAB<br />

YCA I<br />

I YD<br />

I YEL<br />

YJS I<br />

I YL<br />

YLY I<br />

I YSB<br />

I YY<br />

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The Grasshopper<br />

Amsterdam<br />

WWW.THEGRASSHOPPER.NL<br />

Oudebrugsteeg 16<br />

1012 JP, Amsterdam<br />

Tel. +31 204232424<br />

Th e Grasshopper is a stately monumental building in<br />

the heart of the historic centre of Amsterdam off ering a<br />

unique place to go for lunch / dinner or to host a party.<br />

Th e Discobar on the ground fl oor and the Sportsbar on<br />

the fi rst fl oor off er informal dining where you can either<br />

dance or watch some sport respectively. A smoking<br />

room is also available.<br />

On the second fl oor you can fi nd our Steakhouse Evita<br />

where you can have a hearty lunch or a delicious dinner<br />

from our Argentine / Spanish infl uenced kitchen with<br />

a splendid view over the city.<br />

Weather permitting you can also enjoy our terrace and<br />

sit on the waterside to enjoy your lunch or dinner.


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Almería<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €13.<br />

Route 20 goes to<br />

the centre.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Aqua<br />

Marina (30 Paseo<br />

del Mediterráneo,<br />

Mojácar, tel: 950<br />

475 948) Situated<br />

next to the beach,<br />

Aqua Marina has<br />

fantastic sea views,<br />

great salads and<br />

giant pizzas almost<br />

the size of car tyres.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Merendero La<br />

Playa (Playa del<br />

Alquián, tel: 950<br />

520 171) As the<br />

name suggests, this<br />

restaurant is at the<br />

beach, with great<br />

views over the bay. It<br />

should come as no<br />

surprise that the fi sh<br />

is fresh and extremely<br />

good, with fried fi sh<br />

a speciality. A great<br />

spot to to sit outside<br />

at lunchtime.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Los<br />

Pescadores (30<br />

Avenida Antonio<br />

Machado, Roquetas<br />

del Mar, tel: 950 320<br />

374) Top little tapas<br />

bar near the harbour<br />

in Roquetas del Mar.<br />

Enjoy good fi sh snacks<br />

free with your beer.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

El Zaguán (40<br />

Calle San Leonardo)<br />

Atmospheric bar<br />

staging concerts,<br />

theatre and other live<br />

acts. Music ranges<br />

from Elvis to Kings<br />

of Leon, with some<br />

Spanish stuff thrown in.<br />

TAXI TAXI<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Roquetas del Mar<br />

authorities recently<br />

revealed that the<br />

number of abandoned<br />

animals has soared.<br />

Last year, they picked<br />

up 691 dogs and cats,<br />

and found new homes<br />

for nearly half these<br />

animals – mostly in<br />

northern Europe.<br />

David Jones<br />

MUSIC<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

SEE The SOS.48<br />

festival in Murcia is<br />

a must-do. Running<br />

from 3-6 May, the<br />

festival features top<br />

bands such as Pulp,<br />

Mogwai and The<br />

Flaming Lips, along<br />

with many others.<br />

Amman<br />

Jordan<br />

DIALLING CODE +962<br />

CURRENCY JOD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs JOD23.<br />

The bus takes 50<br />

minutes from the<br />

airport. Tickets: JOD3<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 The<br />

Camel’s B@C<br />

(Baouniyyeh Street,<br />

Amman, tel: 06465<br />

7881) Middle Eastern<br />

food with a modern<br />

funky twist served<br />

up at a new café run<br />

by two of Amman’s<br />

coolest independent<br />

companies, JoBedu<br />

and Books@.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

O Six (Canyon<br />

Boutique Hotel, Adeeb<br />

Wahbeh Street, tel:<br />

06 566 9110) A new<br />

roof-top restaurant<br />

with stunning views<br />

across Amman,<br />

a terrace and<br />

retractable ceilings<br />

make O Six a unique<br />

dining experience<br />

throughout the<br />

year. The menu has<br />

been designed to<br />

share, allowing you<br />

the chance to try<br />

more than one dish<br />

guilt-free.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

Sanctuary (Sheraton<br />

Amman Al Nabil Hotel<br />

& Towers, tel: 06 593<br />

4111) An open-air<br />

lounge where you<br />

sit under the stars<br />

or beneath white<br />

canopies sipping<br />

cocktails and listening<br />

to chilled DJ sets.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Cube Lounge<br />

(Shepherd Hotel, Said<br />

Bin Hareth Street,<br />

Jabal Amman, tel: 07<br />

9985 5955) Intimate<br />

venue renowned for<br />

its funky sounds and<br />

Champagne cocktails,<br />

Cube hosts regular DJ<br />

sets and occasional<br />

themed nights with an<br />

emphasis on dancing.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO A 40-minute<br />

drive from Amman<br />

is Jerash, one of the<br />

most well-preserved<br />

and extensive Roman<br />

sites outside Italy.<br />

Every day except<br />

Tuesday, there are<br />

vivid reenactments<br />

of chariot races and<br />

Roman soldiery.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Although Amman’s<br />

importance<br />

diminished from the<br />

end of the Byzantine<br />

period until the 1920s,<br />

it is one of the oldest<br />

continuously occupied<br />

cities in the world.<br />

Huw J Williams<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 103<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Netherlands<br />

DIALLING CODE +31<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Barcelona, Basel-<br />

Mulhouse, Belfast,<br />

Berlin, Bristol,<br />

Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />

Glasgow, Lisbon,<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW, LTN, SEN, STN),<br />

Madrid, Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP), Prague,<br />

Rome, Split<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €50.<br />

There are seven<br />

trains an hour<br />

to Centraal station.<br />

Tickets: €3.80 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Stock<br />

(50 Damrak, tel:<br />

020 427 5382)<br />

So-called because of<br />

its proximity to the<br />

city’s stock exchange,<br />

this airy and funky<br />

new canteen is a<br />

welcome addition to<br />

a street that most<br />

Amsterdammers try to<br />

avoid for its junk-food<br />

chains. Choose from a<br />

range of fresh broodjes<br />

and homemade soups,<br />

and pull up a pew.<br />

UP TO €30 Café<br />

Wildschut (1 Roelof<br />

Hartplein, tel: 020 676<br />

8220) With its fl oorto-ceiling<br />

windows,<br />

roadside terrace<br />

and marble-topped<br />

bars, Wildschut<br />

typifi es the kind of<br />

grand café that has<br />

thrived in the wealthy<br />

Museum Quarter<br />

for the best part of<br />

two centuries. Pretty<br />

much all tastes are<br />

catered for, but don’t<br />

leave without trying<br />

the bitterballen with<br />

mustard, the perfect<br />

accompaniment to<br />

a cold beer.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Mamouche (104<br />

Quellijnstraat, tel:<br />

020 670 0736) This<br />

modern Moroccan<br />

restaurant has won<br />

prizes for its interior<br />

design, but the food<br />

is just as beautifully<br />

conceived and good<br />

looking. Think fi lo<br />

dough fi lled with<br />

chicken, sweet onion,<br />

raisins, cinnamon<br />

and almonds.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Restaurant<br />

Beddington’s (141<br />

Utrechtsedewarsstraat,<br />

tel: 020 620<br />

7393) Expert chef<br />

Jean Beddington has<br />

made something of<br />

a name for herself in<br />

Amsterdam for serving<br />

up expert versions of<br />

great British staples<br />

alongside more<br />

international fare.<br />

Décor-wise, things<br />

don’t get much<br />

chicer, with crisp<br />

white tablecloths and<br />

design-icon chairs.<br />

Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 Amsterdam<br />

Next to the ‘Sensi Seed Bank’<br />

Open all week from 10.00 until 23.00 hours<br />

www.hashmuseum.com


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Netherlands<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Hiding<br />

In Plain Sight (18<br />

Rapenburg, tel: 06<br />

2471 4132 ) The<br />

newest addition to the<br />

east reaches of the Old<br />

Centre, Hiding In Plain<br />

Sight is, as the name<br />

implies, a speakeasy-<br />

type gin joint. The<br />

cocktails are brilliantly<br />

imaginative, with the<br />

more lethal varieties in<br />

a special section<br />

of the menu.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Tunes (27 Van<br />

Baerlestraat, tel: 020<br />

570 0000) It <strong>may</strong><br />

sound like a corny<br />

karaoke bar, but Tunes<br />

is one of the most<br />

glamorous sipping<br />

spots in town. Part of<br />

the impressive fi vestar<br />

Conservatorium<br />

Hotel, it attracts a<br />

dolled-up crowd with<br />

its large smoking<br />

room and monster<br />

sound system.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Paradiso (6<br />

Weteringschans)<br />

This former church is<br />

packed every night,<br />

playing host to music<br />

legends in its main<br />

hall and to up-andcoming<br />

artists in the<br />

upstairs lounge.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Harlemmerdijk<br />

is one of the city’s<br />

hottest style spots<br />

at the moment, with<br />

fashionably quirky<br />

boutiques doing a<br />

roaring trade. Latest<br />

to the fold is Louis<br />

Maximilian, who sells<br />

a mix of designer<br />

men’s and women’s<br />

clothing plus gadgets<br />

(lmamsterdam.com).<br />

SEE Weather<br />

permitting, it’s the<br />

perfect time of year to<br />

enjoy the city’s park<br />

life. From 17–20 May,<br />

the “rolling kitchens”<br />

festival will be in<br />

Westerpark. Ice-cream<br />

vans and other mobile<br />

kitchens convene to<br />

serve up an array of<br />

tasty treats.<br />

GO The Begijnhof,<br />

adjacent to the city<br />

centre book market,<br />

is a secluded hidden<br />

courtyard that’s open<br />

to the public. Built for<br />

a community of poor<br />

but devoutly religious<br />

women, it features<br />

one of Amsterdam’s<br />

prettiest churches.<br />

ESCAPE Just a<br />

20-minute bike ride<br />

from Amsterdam,<br />

Amtstelveen has a<br />

modern city centre<br />

with a world-class<br />

modern-art institution,<br />

the Cobra Museum<br />

(cobra-museum.nl).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Amsterdam claims the<br />

world’s fi rst Bicycle<br />

Hotel. You don’t get to<br />

sleep on your saddle,<br />

but the staff will advise<br />

on the best cycle trip.<br />

Mark Smith<br />

Antalya<br />

Turkey<br />

DIALLING CODE +90<br />

CURRENCY TRY<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs TRY60.<br />

Bus No 202<br />

runs from the<br />

domestic terminal to<br />

the city centre TRY4.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Vanilla Café Lounge<br />

(Barbaros Mah,<br />

33 Hesapçı Sokak,<br />

Kaleiçi, tel: 0242 247<br />

6013) This venue<br />

is a must. With its<br />

cosy, modern décor,<br />

it’s the perfect place<br />

to start the evening<br />

with a cocktail before<br />

sampling one of the<br />

restaurant’s signature<br />

healthy creations,<br />

such as roast<br />

vegetable lasagna.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ristorante Verona<br />

(Ramada Plaza<br />

Antalya, 22 Fevzi<br />

Çakmak Caddesi, tel:<br />

0242 249 1111) À la<br />

carte Italian cuisine of<br />

this quality is a rarity<br />

in Antalya. Verona<br />

<br />

off ers a varied menu<br />

with great pasta, pizza,<br />

seafood and maincourse<br />

meat dishes<br />

to satisfy any palate,<br />

all accompanied by<br />

an especially good<br />

wine list.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Black<br />

Ice Bar (Ramada<br />

Plaza Antalya, Gençlik<br />

Mahallesi, 22 Fevzi<br />

Çakmak Caddesi, tel:<br />

0242 249 1111) You’ll<br />

get more than you<br />

bargained for when<br />

you come here to<br />

chill out. The walls,<br />

furniture and even<br />

the glasses are made<br />

of ice. Thankfully, the<br />

proprietors provide<br />

warm clothing.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

King Bar (11 Kaleiçi<br />

Yatlimanı, tel: 0242<br />

248 4891) King Bar is<br />

situated deep in the<br />

heart of Old Antalya.<br />

Although it’s nestled<br />

among ancient walls<br />

and ruins, you’ll fi nd<br />

anything but a tired<br />

old scene here.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The Fire of<br />

Anatolia dance<br />

spectacular is a mustsee<br />

and will be showing<br />

on 1, 4, 8 and 15 May<br />

(fi reofanatolia.be).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Antalya is mentioned<br />

in the Bible: “And<br />

when they [Saint Paul<br />

and Saint Barnabas]<br />

had preached the<br />

word in Perga, they<br />

went down into<br />

Attalia” (Acts 14:25).<br />

Jon Stigner<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 105<br />

Asturias<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva, Lisbon,<br />

London (STN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Oviedo is<br />

about €53, Gijón €45<br />

and Avilés €23.<br />

The Express bus<br />

runs hourly from<br />

6am–11pm to Oviedo<br />

and Gijón. Tickets:<br />

€7.50. There are<br />

less frequent buses<br />

to Avilés (alsa.es).<br />

Tickets: €1.40.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Iglesiona (34 Begoña,<br />

Gijón, tel: 985 171 417)<br />

Bustling restaurant<br />

with rustic décor<br />

serving excellent-value<br />

lunchtime specials,<br />

often including sirloin<br />

steak. There’s usually<br />

a fi sh dish for those<br />

who prefer seafood.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Taberna del Zurdo<br />

(27 Cervantes, tel: 985<br />

963 096) Highly rated<br />

and trendy, this central,<br />

modern restaurant<br />

serves awardwinning<br />

fusion food,<br />

specialising in tapas.<br />

Try the langoustines<br />

with Parmesan, the<br />

cod tortilla or one<br />

of their rice dishes<br />

washed down with<br />

an excellent wine.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Opera<br />

Prima (12 Cabrales,<br />

Gijón) If you’d like to<br />

drink in a cosy cafépub<br />

with splendid<br />

sea views and good<br />

service, Opera Prima<br />

is the place. A café<br />

during the day, things<br />

hot up at night with<br />

music at weekends.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Nirvana Club Café<br />

(22 Ezcurdia) This new<br />

club, a few blocks back<br />

from the beach, has<br />

really taken off . The<br />

two-fl oor venue blasts<br />

out electro-house on<br />

the lower fl oor and<br />

rock-pop on the upper.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Catch the<br />

Ascension Day<br />

celebrations (17 May)<br />

in Oviedo and/or the<br />

much-loved local<br />

festival, Martes de<br />

Campo (29th), when<br />

locals eat “pregnant<br />

buns” – bread rolls<br />

containing spicy<br />

chorizo sausages.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Although Oviedo was<br />

unlucky with its bid<br />

to become European<br />

Capital of Culture<br />

2016, the town has<br />

a population of only<br />

225,000 yet boasts<br />

an art auditorium, a<br />

theatre-come-opera<br />

house, a fi ne-art gallery<br />

and a museum.<br />

Karen Thomas<br />

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106 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Athens<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Edinburgh,<br />

Geneva, London<br />

(LGW), Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP), Paris<br />

(ORY), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

Proastiako<br />

and Metro line<br />

trains service the city.<br />

Tickets: €8 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Yiasemi (23<br />

Mnisikleous Street,<br />

tel: 213 041 7937)<br />

A perfect gem of a<br />

café-bistrot just<br />

dripping with local<br />

colour, with its<br />

mismatched junk-<br />

shop furniture and<br />

homecooked food,<br />

rooftop terrace and<br />

tables on one of the<br />

stairs leading up to the<br />

Acropolis in Plaka.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Galazia Hytra (40<br />

Apollonos Street,<br />

Vouliagmeni, tel: 210 33<br />

16 767) An upmarket<br />

restaurant specialising<br />

in Greek cuisine, with<br />

a charming view and<br />

exceptionally high<br />

standards that have<br />

earned it one of the<br />

few Michelin stars<br />

awarded in Athens.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Santa<br />

Botella (115A<br />

Panormou Street, tel:<br />

210 698 1032) A funky<br />

street bar situated<br />

right in the middle of<br />

a row of bars and<br />

clubs at the lower<br />

end of Panormou.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Nipiagogeio (8<br />

Kleanthous Street &<br />

Elasidon, Gazi, tel: 210<br />

345 8534) This bar<br />

has two stages: one<br />

mellow and laid-back<br />

in an open courtyard<br />

at the back, and one<br />

that can pretty quickly<br />

turn electric.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO If the sunny<br />

weather makes you<br />

hanker for a swim, but<br />

the cold sea puts you<br />

off , try visiting Lake<br />

Vouliagmeni, where the<br />

water is a comfortable<br />

24°C all year round.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

While digging the<br />

metro station<br />

at Monastiraki,<br />

contractors found<br />

the lost Eridanos<br />

River, which had been<br />

converted into a sewer<br />

during the time of<br />

Emperor Hadrian.<br />

The river has now<br />

been incorporated<br />

into the design of<br />

the new station.<br />

Eva Webster<br />

Barcelona<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />

Bristol, Dortmund,<br />

Geneva, Lisbon,<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW, LTN, SEN,<br />

STN), Lyon, Milan<br />

(MXP), Newcastle, Nice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

Trains service the<br />

Sants Estació.<br />

Tickets: €2.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Elisabets (2-4 Carrer<br />

Elisabets, tel: 93 317<br />

5826) This unfussy<br />

tapas bar has largely<br />

been overlooked<br />

by the guidebooks<br />

despite fulfi lling all the<br />

classic entry criteria.<br />

Authentic vibe, great<br />

food (try the morcilla),<br />

cheap prices and even<br />

the odd modernista<br />

touch to the décor.<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Carassa (1 Carrer<br />

Brosoli, tel: 93 310<br />

3306) The set menu<br />

for €23 gets you three<br />

courses plus two<br />

glasses of wine – and<br />

a glass of Cava – at<br />

this intimate venue in<br />

El Born. Many of the<br />

dishes are purported<br />

to have aphrodisiacal<br />

properties.<br />

UP TO €50 Dans<br />

le Noir (10 Paseo<br />

Picasso, tel: 93 268<br />

7017) If you’re in the<br />

mood for experiential<br />

dining, then head over<br />

to Dans Le Noir, where<br />

fresh market cuisine<br />

is served in absolute<br />

darkness by blind<br />

waiters. Half the fun is<br />

guessing what you’re<br />

eating... and who<br />

you’re talking to.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Restaurant Sant Pau<br />

(10 Carrer Nou, Sant<br />

Pol de Mar, tel: 93 760<br />

0662) You’ll have to<br />

travel nearly 50km up<br />

the coast to Sant Pol<br />

de Mar, but if you look<br />

to the sky you should<br />

see three Michelin<br />

stars guiding your path.<br />

Run by renowned chef<br />

PRIMAVERA<br />

SOUND<br />

SEE On 30 May<br />

see free concerts by<br />

Saint Etienne, Black<br />

Lips and others,<br />

while on the 31st,<br />

the action kicks off<br />

properly at Parc del<br />

Forum (sanmiguel<br />

primaverasound.es).<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Carme Ruscalleda,<br />

the menu is rooted<br />

in Catalan traditions<br />

while the restaurant is<br />

dramatically located in<br />

a seaside mansion.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cala<br />

del Vermut (6 Carrer<br />

de les Magdalenes)<br />

A quick glass of<br />

vermouth before lunch<br />

was once a tradition<br />

and luckily you can<br />

still fi nd one or two<br />

old-school vermuterias<br />

if you need a fi x of<br />

wormwood wine –<br />

such as this charming<br />

nook of a bar in Gotico.<br />

Order a side tapa of<br />

anchovies if you want<br />

to appear local.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Razzmatazz (88<br />

Carrer Pamplona, tel:<br />

93 320 8200) The fi ve<br />

rooms of this former<br />

factory in Poblenou<br />

host an array of indie<br />

and dance gigs by<br />

semi-famous artists,<br />

before turning into the<br />

city’s biggest nightclub<br />

around 1am.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Factory Club (5-7<br />

Carrer Escudellers)<br />

Techno rules the<br />

roost at this new club<br />

right in the centre of<br />

partyville. Spatially,<br />

it’s nothing special,<br />

but so far they seem<br />

to have succeeded in<br />

attracting the right<br />

sort of people to enjoy<br />

the underground vibe.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP One of<br />

Europe’s premier food<br />

markets, La Boqueria<br />

is half grocery store,<br />

half tourist attraction.<br />

Sneak past the<br />

camera-wielding<br />

hordes for better deals<br />

on meat, cheese and<br />

seafood at the back.<br />

Look out for stalls<br />

selling fresh fruit<br />

juice, sangria<br />

and hot chocolate<br />

(91 La Rambla).<br />

GO With the grand<br />

Santa Maria del Mar<br />

Gothic church, the<br />

tree-lined Passeig del<br />

Born square, weird<br />

museums (such as the<br />

Chocolate Museum<br />

and the Mammoth<br />

Museum), and plenty<br />

of hip bars, restaurants<br />

and boutiques in<br />

hidden alleys, El Born<br />

is one barrio worth<br />

bothering with.<br />

ESCAPE The sleepy<br />

village of Sant Pol de<br />

Mar makes for a nice<br />

contrast to bustling<br />

Barcelona and<br />

gourmands will have<br />

already noted that the<br />

three-star Sant Pau<br />

Restaurant makes its<br />

home here. During the<br />

day, take a walk on the<br />

Cami de Ronda coastal<br />

footpath to fi nd hidden<br />

coves and beaches.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Despite being adored<br />

today, Gaudi was<br />

loathed by many of<br />

his contemporaries,<br />

including Picasso and<br />

George Orwell, who<br />

both took exception<br />

to his work. Even Dali<br />

had a swing, saying<br />

the architect had<br />

“superbly creative<br />

bad taste”.<br />

Duncan Rhodes/<br />

Barcelona-life.com


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Bari<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

Route 16 goes<br />

to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €0.77.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Bracceria Da<br />

Matteo (6 Largo<br />

IV Novembre, tel:<br />

080 408 6380)<br />

Good solid pizza<br />

bar that also serves<br />

up succulent meat<br />

dishes. Try any of<br />

the meat skewers<br />

with some good<br />

Primitivo wine.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Lo Sprofondo<br />

(109 Corso Vittorio<br />

Emmanuele, tel: 080<br />

521 3697) This is the<br />

place where Bari’s<br />

smart set dine. It<br />

has a certain Italian<br />

pomp and ceremony<br />

that can be fun,<br />

and the food is<br />

excellent. Try the<br />

braciolette of veal.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Caff é<br />

Mozart (9 Via Ciasca<br />

Cardinale Agostino,<br />

tel: 08 0504 2394)<br />

Good for a midevening<br />

coff ee and<br />

cake before dining<br />

in the surrounding<br />

restaurants or<br />

drinking in one<br />

of the lively<br />

neighbouring bars.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Autodrom Club<br />

(Contrada Lamandia,<br />

Monopoli) The<br />

Autodromo Club<br />

is certainly worth<br />

checking out. There<br />

is nearly always<br />

a weekend event<br />

consisting of live<br />

acts or DJs. Find<br />

out what’s going on<br />

before heading down<br />

in the evening – the<br />

music can vary from<br />

R ‘n’ B to techno and<br />

a magnitude of mixes<br />

in between.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The Cathedral<br />

of San Sabino is<br />

an 11th-century<br />

edifi ce with its own<br />

museum where you<br />

can see remarkably<br />

preserved ancient<br />

liturgy scrolls<br />

(Piazza Odegitria).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Just a 30-minute<br />

drive south down the<br />

coast is Polignano A<br />

Mare, a picturesque<br />

cliff -side town where,<br />

among their fantastic<br />

fi sh restaurants, they<br />

allegedly have the<br />

best pistachio ice<br />

cream in Italy.<br />

Max Keep<br />

Basel/<br />

Mulhouse/<br />

Freiburg<br />

Switzerland<br />

DIALLING CODE +41<br />

CURRENCY CHF<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />

Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />

Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />

Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />

Dresden, Düsseldorf,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro,<br />

Fuerteventura, Gran<br />

Canaria, Hamburg,<br />

Ibiza, Istanbul, Lisbon,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Marrakech,<br />

Nantes, Naples, Nice,<br />

Olbia, Rome, Porto,<br />

Pristina, Split, Tel Aviv,<br />

Tenerife, Thessaloniki,<br />

Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your<br />

taxi at easyJet.<br />

com. The fare to Basel<br />

is about CHF40 and<br />

Mulhouse €40.<br />

Route 50 takes<br />

you to Basel’s<br />

main train station.<br />

Tickets: CHF3.80.<br />

In France,<br />

shuttles go to the<br />

station in Saint-Louis<br />

for trains to Mulhouse.<br />

Tickets: €1.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Restaurant Veronica<br />

(195 St Alban-<br />

Rheinweg, Basel, tel:<br />

061 311 2575) This<br />

reasonably priced,<br />

simple restaurant<br />

has perhaps the best<br />

location in Basel – on<br />

the Rhybadhysli (Rhine<br />

bath house) above the<br />

fl owing waters of the<br />

Rhine. It’s a pleasant<br />

15-minute walk<br />

upstream from<br />

Greater Basel.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Restaurant Schnabel<br />

(2 Trillengässlein, tel:<br />

061 261 2121) A very<br />

nice, brasserie-style<br />

restaurant serving<br />

traditional Basler food,<br />

often with ingredients<br />

from the area. The<br />

restaurant is best<br />

known for its “die<br />

falsche Schnägge”<br />

(fake snails), which are<br />

escargots with pork<br />

instead of snails.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Winstub Henriette<br />

(9 Rue Henriette,<br />

Mulhouse, tel: 03<br />

8946 2783) This<br />

cosy restaurant near<br />

TOY WORLD’S<br />

MUSEUM<br />

SEE The exhibition<br />

Christening and<br />

much more,<br />

throughout the<br />

month, visits gifts,<br />

crowns and customs<br />

of Baptisms from the<br />

past three centuries<br />

(Steinenvorstadt).<br />

FILLER Basel Tourism ADVERT<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 109<br />

the cathedral off ers<br />

Alsatian cuisine a cut<br />

above that served<br />

by many other<br />

restaurants, as well as<br />

a great selection<br />

of local wines.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Auberge St-Laurent<br />

(1 Rue Fontaine,<br />

Sierentz) For exclusive<br />

eating, it’s worth<br />

considering a short<br />

drive (or taxi) across<br />

the border from Basel<br />

into France to the<br />

Auberge St-Laurent,<br />

where one can get<br />

a Michelin-star<br />

experience at a<br />

signifi cantly lower price<br />

than in Basel, whether<br />

you’re after local foie<br />

gras, Munster cheese,<br />

Alsatian wine or lobster<br />

fl own in from Canada.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le<br />

Poussin Vert (3 Rue<br />

Rothmuller, Colmar,<br />

tel: 03 8941 1858) This<br />

bar, where the young<br />

artists of Colmar hang<br />

out, has lots of outdoor<br />

seating in a private<br />

garden for warm<br />

spring evenings. Open<br />

mic on Wednesdays.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Le Charlie’s (26 Rue<br />

de la Sinne, Mulhouse,<br />

tel: 03 8966 1222) In<br />

its lovingly restored<br />

art-deco lounge, Le<br />

Charlie’s stages live<br />

jazz every night of the<br />

week to a chilled-out<br />

crowd. Come and<br />

sip a dry martini or<br />

whisky sour – the<br />

epitome of cool. In<br />

the same building as<br />

one of Mulhouse’s<br />

top restaurants.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Hotel Restaurant<br />

Klingental (20<br />

Klingental, Basel, tel:<br />

061 681 6248) If it’s<br />

late and you’re looking<br />

for a huge piece of<br />

meat, a beer tap<br />

that’s still running and<br />

nocturnal waiting staff ,<br />

this is the place to go.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP In search<br />

of the best bread<br />

in France? Léonard<br />

Helmstetter would be<br />

a good place to start.<br />

His succulent loafs are<br />

the standard in all the<br />

top local restaurants,<br />

though if you make<br />

the trip, it’s worth<br />

indulging in something<br />

sweet (11–13 Rue des<br />

Serruriers, Colmar).<br />

GO Lesser Basel is<br />

Basel’s grittier side,<br />

but is also the location<br />

of many of the best<br />

night and eating spots,<br />

particularly if you’re<br />

looking for a bargain.<br />

ESCAPE From<br />

Basel Schiffl ände<br />

you can go up or<br />

down the Rhine, with<br />

both swanky dining<br />

ships and more basic<br />

(and economical)<br />

voyages to Rheinfelden<br />

available (bpg.ch).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In a landlocked country,<br />

Basel’s place on the<br />

Rhine makes it by far<br />

the most important<br />

shipping destination<br />

in Switzerland, with<br />

between 10 and<br />

25 % of all imports<br />

coming into the city’s<br />

three harbours.<br />

Richard Harvell<br />

Basel. Where art is a lifestyle.<br />

Phone +41 (0)61 268 68 68<br />

info@basel.com<br />

www.basel.com


110 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Belfast<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Barcelona, Bristol,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,<br />

Krakow, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

STN, SEN), Málaga,<br />

Malta, Manchester,<br />

Newcastle, Majorca,<br />

Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £25.<br />

Translink run a<br />

service to the<br />

centre. Tickets: £7<br />

single; £10 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Villa<br />

Italia (37 University<br />

Road, tel: 028 9032<br />

8356) If you are in the<br />

mood for some nononsense,<br />

good-value<br />

Italian food, this place<br />

is hard to beat. It tends<br />

to be busy most nights<br />

of the week, so you<br />

<strong>may</strong> have to queue.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Muriel’s (12 Church<br />

Lane, tel: 028 9033<br />

2445) This quirky bar<br />

THE MOST FAMOUS<br />

IRISH PUB IN BERLIN<br />

on the edge of the<br />

Cathedral Quarter<br />

is a real fi nd. Actress<br />

Natalie Portman called<br />

in for a drink while<br />

she was fi lming in<br />

town a year or so ago.<br />

It’s a great spot for<br />

breakfast, lunch or an<br />

early evening dinner.<br />

Try the Eggs Benedict.<br />

UP TO €50 Mourne<br />

Seafood Bar (34–36<br />

Bank Street, tel: 028<br />

9024 8544) Tucked<br />

away in a quiet street,<br />

this terrifi c seafood<br />

restaurant is a must<br />

for anyone who is<br />

serious about fi sh. The<br />

restaurant has a bistro<br />

feel to it and the food<br />

is second to none.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Shu<br />

(253 Lisburn Road,<br />

tel: 028 9038 1655)<br />

Consistently voted<br />

one of the best places<br />

to eat in Ireland, never<br />

mind Belfast, this wellestablished<br />

restaurant<br />

is situated on the<br />

affl uent Lisburn Road<br />

so there are lots of art<br />

galleries and trendy<br />

HOTEL<br />

FITZWILLIAM<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Enjoy spacious<br />

rooms and bold<br />

décor of limes and<br />

mustards, in a hotel<br />

located opposite<br />

the Opera House.<br />

From €83, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

boutiques nearby. If<br />

you are on a budget,<br />

the pre-theatre menu<br />

is also excellent.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

Morning Star (17–19<br />

Pottingers Entry, tel:<br />

028 9023 5986)<br />

Situated between Anne<br />

Street and High Street,<br />

this historic bar is well<br />

worth checking out.<br />

It is one of the oldest<br />

bars in the city and<br />

they serve a mean pint<br />

of Guinness. The food<br />

is excellent value and<br />

extremely tasty.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Auntie Annie’s (44<br />

Dublin Road, tel: 028<br />

9050 1660) As well as<br />

being a bit of a student<br />

hangout, this venue<br />

is a home from home<br />

for some of the best<br />

bands in the city. It has<br />

a great bar downstairs<br />

and fantastic live<br />

music upstairs. It tends<br />

to attract a lot of indie<br />

bands but expect to<br />

hear any type of music.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Menagerie Bar<br />

(130 University St,<br />

tel: 028 9023 5678)<br />

Although it doesn’t<br />

look like much from<br />

outside, The Menagerie<br />

is one of the best latenight<br />

venues in town.<br />

Over the years, it has<br />

played host to some<br />

of the most interesting<br />

musical happenings<br />

in Belfast.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Miss<br />

Moran’s, a specialist<br />

tobacconist shop, is<br />

well worth visiting<br />

even if you aren’t a<br />

smoker. She sells<br />

everything and<br />

anything to do with<br />

smoking and tobacco<br />

(6 Church Lane).<br />

SEE The fantastic<br />

Cathedral Quarter<br />

Arts Festival, runs<br />

from 3–13 May. Now<br />

in its 13th year, this<br />

year’s highlights<br />

include John Cale,<br />

Field Music and Alexei<br />

Sayle. All of the events<br />

take place in and<br />

around the Cathedral<br />

Quarter and are priced<br />

at under £10.<br />

GO The Titanic sank<br />

one hundred years<br />

ago this year, so now<br />

is a good time to visit<br />

the historic shipyards.<br />

While you’re in the<br />

area, check out the<br />

recently opened,<br />

£90million Titanic<br />

Belfast Visitor Centre<br />

as well as the dry<br />

dock where the ship<br />

was built.<br />

ESCAPE<br />

Londonderry,<br />

Northern Ireland’s<br />

second city, is around<br />

a 90-minute drive<br />

from Belfast and great<br />

for a day trip. It has a<br />

laidback atmosphere<br />

and the locals are very<br />

friendly. Take a stroll<br />

along the new Peace<br />

Bridge and a visit to<br />

the recently restored<br />

Guildhall.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

There are more pubs<br />

and restaurants per<br />

head of population in<br />

Belfast than there are<br />

in the whole of Finland.<br />

Chris Sherry/<br />

Ulster Tatler<br />

Berlin<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir,<br />

Amsterdam, Athens,<br />

Barcelona, Basel-<br />

Mulhouse, Bristol,<br />

Brussels, Budapest,<br />

Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />

Corfu, Crete<br />

(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,<br />

Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP), Mykonos,<br />

Naples, Nice, Olbia,<br />

Paris (ORY), Pisa,<br />

Rhodes, Rome,<br />

Split, Tenerife,<br />

Thessaloniki, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

Express route<br />

SXF1 runs to<br />

Berlin Südkreuz.<br />

Tickets: €6.<br />

Catch the S-Bahn<br />

or the Airport<br />

Express. Tickets: €3.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Primo Maggio (10<br />

Graefestrasse, tel:<br />

030 6165 0861)<br />

Excellent little Italian<br />

café named after<br />

Berlin’s famous May<br />

Day demonstrations.<br />

It serves homemade<br />

focaccia and all sorts<br />

of pasta, plus some<br />

really great coff ees.<br />

UP TO €30 Tipica<br />

(19 Rosenstrasse,<br />

tel: 030 2509 9440)<br />

The past few years<br />

have seen a wave of<br />

“authentic” Mexican<br />

snack bars and<br />

restaurants open up.<br />

Tipica is one of the<br />

more upscale ones,<br />

but – despite its<br />

designer vibe – the<br />

tacos are very much<br />

the real deal.<br />

UP TO €50 HBC<br />

Restaurant (9 Karl-<br />

Liebknecht-Strasse,<br />

tel: 030 2434 2920)<br />

Situated in the HBC<br />

nightlife cultural space,<br />

this trendy restaurant<br />

isn’t very visible from<br />

the street. Walk up the<br />

wide concrete stairs,<br />

through the smoky bar<br />

into a cosy-modern<br />

eatery that serves<br />

modern continental-<br />

French cuisine and<br />

some great wines.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Reinstoff (26C<br />

Schlegelstrasse, tel:<br />

030 3088 1214) The<br />

name means “pure<br />

material” and that’s<br />

what you get here:<br />

multi-course menus of<br />

ultra-aesthetic, avantgarde<br />

cuisine largely<br />

sourced from local,<br />

organic ingredients.<br />

Michelin just awarded<br />

the restaurant its<br />

second star.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Freischwimmer (2 Vor<br />

dem Schlesischen


Discover the wild<br />

side of Berlin.<br />

BLUE MAN GROUP is a spectacular show:<br />

It is fun, witty, intelligent and surprises you<br />

with creativity, comedy and great music.<br />

This internationally unique mix of a rousing<br />

concert atmosphere, high-class comedy<br />

and amazing effects is something you will<br />

never have experienced before. Once BLUE<br />

MAN GROUP has gotten under your skin,<br />

it will never leave your head! It is staged<br />

in Berlin, at the Stage BLUEMAX Theater,<br />

Potsdamer Platz. The combination of two<br />

languages within one show, German and<br />

English, is a world-fi rst and makes it an absolute<br />

must for Berlin visitors from all over<br />

the world.<br />

Challenge Newitts<br />

www.bluemangroup.de/international Show-Tickets: +49 (0) 18 05 / 44 44<br />

€ 0.14/min. calling from a German landline. Mobile phone charges max. € 0.42/min.<br />

“We`ll beat the best”<br />

Promotion Code:<br />

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Europe’s largest online<br />

sports equipment shop<br />

BERLIN BOSTON CHICAGO LAS VEGAS NEW YORK ORLANDO TOKYO


112 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Berlin<br />

Germany<br />

Tor) A narrow, canalside<br />

patio café that<br />

almost feels like it’s<br />

fl oating on the water,<br />

this place is perfect for<br />

sipping drinks on<br />

a warm afternoon.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Bi Nuu (U-Bbhf<br />

Schlesisches Tor)<br />

Named after a<br />

record by German<br />

1980s’ band Ideal,<br />

the new Bi Nuu club<br />

is handily located in<br />

the Schlesisches Tor<br />

underground station<br />

in a former punk and<br />

goth venue. The club’s<br />

live booking has been<br />

updated to match the<br />

indie hipster zeitgeist.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Luzia (34<br />

Oranienstrasse) Right<br />

on Kreuzberg’s main<br />

strip, the alwaysheaving<br />

Luzia bar is<br />

emblematic of the<br />

neighbourhood’s<br />

trendiness. Expect<br />

fi ne DJs and some<br />

sexy locals.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The<br />

streets around<br />

Boxhagenerplatz in<br />

Friedrichshain are<br />

brimming with small,<br />

independent fashion<br />

shops fl ogging the<br />

creations of local<br />

designers – like XYZ<br />

Berlin (10 Gabriel-<br />

Marx-Strasse) and<br />

T-shirt label Yackfou<br />

(21 Gabriel-Marx-<br />

Strasse). Perfect for a<br />

Saturday gander.<br />

SEE The closest<br />

Berlin gets to Rio’s<br />

carnival is the annual<br />

Carnival of Cultures,<br />

a massive, three-day<br />

street party (25-28<br />

May) with live music,<br />

great food and a<br />

multicultural parade<br />

on 27 May (karnevalberlin.de).<br />

GO The area around<br />

Hackescher Markt<br />

has developed into<br />

shopping central,<br />

but interesting sights<br />

remain, such as the<br />

Haus Schwarzenberg<br />

(at 39 Rosenthaler<br />

Strasse), home to a<br />

slew of alternative<br />

cultural projects<br />

such as the Dead<br />

Chickens Monster<br />

Cabinet – a cellar<br />

exhibition of unusual<br />

mechanised creatures<br />

(deadchickens.de).<br />

ESCAPE No<br />

springtime visit to<br />

Berlin is complete<br />

without a day trip<br />

to neighbouring<br />

Potsdam with its<br />

majestic palaces and<br />

parks. Slightly off the<br />

main tourist track<br />

is the Neuer Garten<br />

(New Garden), good<br />

for a lakeside walk and<br />

tea at the Cecilienhof<br />

(site of the 1945<br />

Potsdam Conference<br />

at which the Allies<br />

determined the fate of<br />

post-war Germany).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Despite being the<br />

capital of Europe’s<br />

strongest economy,<br />

Berlin has a higher<br />

unemployment rate<br />

(approximately 13 per<br />

cent) than all other<br />

German cities.<br />

Exberliner.com<br />

Biarritz<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €15.<br />

The STAB runs<br />

hourly from<br />

7.30am–7.30pm.<br />

Tickets: €1.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Chez<br />

ta Mere (12 Rue du<br />

Port-Vieux, tel: 05<br />

5924 7105) Enjoy<br />

hearty, wholesome<br />

home-cooking in<br />

this romantic little<br />

restaurant. The<br />

menu changes daily<br />

according to what’s<br />

been pulled off the<br />

boats, but fi sh is always<br />

the star of the show.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Chez<br />

Philippe (30 Avenue<br />

du Lac Marion, tel: 05<br />

5923 1312) Philippe is a<br />

prizewinning chef who<br />

prepares his food on<br />

an open fi re in front of<br />

his clients. Specialities<br />

include roast pork<br />

and sea bass. Leave<br />

room for dessert – the<br />

chocolate delicacies<br />

are divine.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Irish<br />

Pub (10 Avenue Victor<br />

Hugo, tel: 05 5924<br />

6606) A busy Irish<br />

pub in the city centre.<br />

Come to enjoy the<br />

Guinness, imported<br />

beer, party atmosphere<br />

and sporting events on<br />

the big screen, which<br />

all the locals crowd<br />

around when their<br />

team’s playing.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Carré Coast (21<br />

Avenue Edouard VII,<br />

tel: 05 5924 6464)<br />

This is a sleek and<br />

trendy nightclub<br />

overlooking the beach.<br />

After Le Carré closes<br />

in the early hours, you<br />

can watch the sunrise<br />

from Grande Plage.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Go to the<br />

seventh edition of<br />

Street Arts on 17-20<br />

May. The Festival des<br />

Arts de la Rue off ers a<br />

programme of street<br />

theatre, acrobats,<br />

dance, clowns,<br />

jugglers, buskers and<br />

more. Performances<br />

take place in every<br />

street, square and<br />

neighbourhood<br />

around the city.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Few people know that<br />

the Russian composer<br />

Igor Stravinsky lived<br />

in Biarritz between<br />

1921 and 1924.<br />

There is a memorial<br />

plaque dedicated to<br />

Stravinsky in the city.<br />

Steve Bilsborough<br />

Bilbao<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Ibiza, Geneva,<br />

London (STN), Madrid,<br />

Manchester, Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

Buses leave every<br />

30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €1.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Ortua<br />

(18 Alameda de<br />

Mazarredo, tel: 94<br />

424 5102) A simple<br />

restaurant with no<br />

elaborate trimmings,<br />

just tasty, freshly<br />

cooked vegetarian<br />

lunches.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Zero (3 Calle de<br />

Henao, tel: 94 435<br />

4116) This exclusive<br />

restaurant, serving<br />

the best-quality<br />

Basque cuisine, only<br />

opens on Sundays.<br />

Book a table to avoid<br />

disappointment.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Gambrinus (23 Calle<br />

Juan de Ajuriaguerra,<br />

tel: 94 415 0564) An<br />

English-style pub for<br />

those who prefer a<br />

pint of beer to a glass<br />

of Rioja. Plenty of<br />

good wines, too, not<br />

to mention a friendly<br />

atmosphere and<br />

convenient central<br />

location.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

K2 (10 Calle Somera,<br />

tel: 94 416 3450)<br />

A big pub in the old<br />

part of the city. Open<br />

almost around the<br />

clock with a sandwich<br />

menu of more than<br />

90 combinations.<br />

K2 is popular with<br />

young people – and<br />

anyone interested in<br />

mountains!<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE An adaptation<br />

of Rossini’s great<br />

opera William Tell is<br />

showing for two days<br />

only (12–13 May)<br />

at the emblematic<br />

Arriaga Theatre.<br />

Tickets €13 for adults<br />

(teatroarriaga.com).<br />

Katherine Bilsborough<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Grown along the<br />

Basque coastline,<br />

the latest addition to<br />

local cuisine is the<br />

tiny teardrop pea,<br />

famous for being the<br />

most expensive pea<br />

in the world (selling at<br />

around €200 a kilo).


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114 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Bodrum<br />

Turkey<br />

DIALLING CODE +90<br />

CURRENCY TRY<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, STN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs 85TRY.<br />

TAXI<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Café<br />

Cafen (178A Neyzen<br />

Tevfi k Caddesi, tel:<br />

0252 316 3930)<br />

This café’s motto<br />

is “Whenever you<br />

like..” and it’s a great<br />

place to go any time<br />

of day. Try a Turkish<br />

breakfast platter<br />

with local meats<br />

and cheeses,<br />

eggs, olives and<br />

homemade jams.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Erenler Sofrasi<br />

(Yarbasan Evleri,<br />

Ortakent, tel: 0532<br />

248 2479) It’s hard<br />

to beat Erenler<br />

Sofrasi for an<br />

authentic taste of<br />

the Aegean. The<br />

menu changes<br />

constantly, depending<br />

on what’s in season.<br />

The setting, in a<br />

village<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

Making<br />

Waves<br />

All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />

in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />

offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />

Achtung Ac Acht ht httun un ung g Baby! Ba Baby by by!<br />

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001_ej_Cover May.indd 1 13/04/<strong>2012</strong> 15:26<br />

of stone cottages,<br />

is as sublime as<br />

the food.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

del Mar (164–166<br />

Cumhuriyet Caddesi,<br />

tel: 0252 316<br />

7110) Head for this<br />

beachfront terrace<br />

bar, complete with<br />

bean bags, for a<br />

frozen cocktail. It’s<br />

a cool spot to watch<br />

the sunset.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Evgenia Meyhane<br />

(Çarsı Sokak, Manavlar<br />

Arkası 5, tel: 0533<br />

3055419) A meyhane<br />

is a traditional Turkish<br />

restaurant-cum-bar<br />

with live music.<br />

Evgenia Meyhane<br />

started a trend in<br />

Bodrum, with other<br />

establisments opening<br />

nearby to create<br />

a whole street of<br />

meyhanes where<br />

the party goes<br />

on until late.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Visit Bodrum’s<br />

Marina to see how<br />

Turkey’s other half live.<br />

This is the place to<br />

see and be seen while<br />

shopping in designer<br />

boutiques or sipping<br />

a coff ee or a cocktail<br />

in a swanky bar.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Bodrum’s waterfront<br />

road is named after<br />

Neyzen Tevfi k, one<br />

of Turkey’s favourite<br />

writers. This poet and<br />

fl ute-player is one<br />

of the town’s most<br />

famous sons.<br />

Paul Bartlett<br />

Bologna<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20<br />

The Aerobus<br />

runs from 6am<br />

to midnight. Tickets:<br />

€6 single.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Biagi<br />

(9A Via Savenella,<br />

tel: 051 4070049)<br />

Now occupying this<br />

atmospheric premises<br />

in the centre of town,<br />

Biagi fi rst opened in the<br />

outskirts of Bologna in<br />

the 1930s. Come for<br />

traditional Bolognese<br />

fare and good wine.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Rodrigo (2H Via<br />

della Zecca, tel: 051<br />

220445) A refi ned<br />

environment and<br />

delicious food continue<br />

to attract politicians,<br />

actors and other<br />

personalities after<br />

more than 60 years<br />

in business. Choose<br />

from exquisite fi sh,<br />

homemade pasta and<br />

hearty dishes such<br />

as wild-boar fi llet in<br />

a red-wine sauce.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Camera<br />

a Sud (5 Via Valdonica,<br />

tel: 051 0951448) Set<br />

in Bologna’s former<br />

ghetto, right in the<br />

centre of town, this<br />

stylish yet informal<br />

wine-bar hosts<br />

frequent and<br />

top-quality<br />

photo exhibitions.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Originating in<br />

the middle of the 13th<br />

century, Ferrara’s Palio<br />

horserace is the oldest<br />

of its kind in the world.<br />

Costume events are<br />

held each weekend in<br />

May, culminating in<br />

the exciting race<br />

between city districts<br />

on Sunday 27 May.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Saint Dominic, founder<br />

of one of the world’s<br />

most important<br />

monastic orders, the<br />

Dominicans, is buried<br />

in Bologna’s striking<br />

San Domenico church.<br />

Sarah Lane<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Bobby’s Pub (103<br />

Via Murri, tel: 328<br />

6872173) With<br />

ten beers on tap,<br />

countless cocktails<br />

and a great selection<br />

of wines, this wellestablished<br />

pub has<br />

recently had a facelift.<br />

Bordeaux<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Bristol, Geneva,<br />

Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />

(MXP), Nice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

A bus service<br />

runs to Place des<br />

Quinconces every 20<br />

minutes. Tickets: €1.40<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le Puy<br />

Paulin (5 Rue Louis<br />

Combes, tel: 05 5681<br />

8552) Located on a<br />

quiet square between<br />

the main shopping<br />

streets, this typical<br />

brasserie is a good<br />

spot for a quick lunch.<br />

Aim for a seat on the<br />

terrace or downstairs.<br />

For best value, try the<br />

plat du jour.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Le<br />

Co(o)rniche (46<br />

Boulevard Louis<br />

Gaume, tel: 05 5622<br />

7211) Views from this<br />

Philippe Starckdesigned<br />

restaurant<br />

If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />

and cannot take it with you, visit<br />

traveller.‰.com<br />

.com<br />

overlooking the Bassin<br />

d’Arcachon are like<br />

holiday postcards. It’s<br />

worth the hour’s drive<br />

from Bordeaux for<br />

the location and the<br />

seafood menu.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

L’Oenolimit<br />

(2 Rue des Ayres,<br />

tel: 05 5788 3419)<br />

Start or end your<br />

evening at this<br />

welcoming wine bar.<br />

Choose from the<br />

bottles from Bordeaux<br />

and beyond on the<br />

shelves, or try one<br />

of the smaller wine<br />

“tubes”.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

iBoat (1 Quai Armand<br />

Lalande, tel: 05 5610<br />

4823) This former<br />

ferry has established<br />

itself as a centre for<br />

arts and live-music.<br />

Concerts feature<br />

established and<br />

up-and-coming French<br />

and international<br />

artists, while club<br />

nights are held<br />

Thursday to Saturday.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Head to the<br />

Week-end des Grands<br />

Crus (12–13 May) for<br />

the opportunity to<br />

taste the acclaimed<br />

2009 vintages from<br />

over 100 Bordeaux<br />

châteaux, presented<br />

by the winemakers<br />

(ugcb.net).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

With over 60,000<br />

students, the<br />

Bordeaux campus is<br />

the largest in France.<br />

Caroline Matthews


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Brest<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Buses stop<br />

at Saint Luc<br />

and the city centre.<br />

Tickets: €4.60 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le<br />

Potager de Meme<br />

(44 Rue de Lyon,<br />

tel: 09 5144 1478)<br />

Traditional home<br />

cooking using<br />

organic ingredients<br />

from the restaurant’s<br />

kitchen garden is<br />

what visitors should<br />

expect here. The<br />

atmosphere is<br />

arty-bohemian and<br />

there’s always a<br />

vegetarian option.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Maison de l’Océan<br />

(2 Quai de la Douane,<br />

tel: 02 9880 4484)<br />

The menu changes<br />

according to the<br />

fi shing boats’ catch,<br />

so it’s always fresh.<br />

The fi sh soup and<br />

the crab come highly<br />

Michael<br />

before<br />

treatment<br />

recommended; there<br />

are also good meat<br />

dishes and a great<br />

selection of desserts.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Blind<br />

Piper (95 Rue Siam,<br />

tel: 02 9880 3539)<br />

A great place for an<br />

early evening beer.<br />

Stand at the bar and<br />

join in the chit-chat<br />

or grab a booth if<br />

you want to relax<br />

and chill out. They<br />

also have a killer<br />

selection of shooters.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Baobab (2 Rue du<br />

Chateau, tel: 02 9880<br />

1773) A great place<br />

to warm up over a tipunch<br />

(little punch)<br />

or a cocktail. The<br />

décor is cheering, the<br />

welcome is always<br />

friendly and the<br />

music will take you<br />

to the Caribbean<br />

even while sitting by<br />

the Celtic Sea.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The Forum<br />

des Langues takes<br />

place on 26 May<br />

on the Place de la<br />

Liberté. Whether<br />

you are interested<br />

in learning, teaching<br />

or practising a<br />

language, this is<br />

the place to go<br />

(more info from<br />

brestetvous.fr).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Rue St Malo<br />

was the only street<br />

in central Brest<br />

which wasn’t totally<br />

destroyed during<br />

World War Two.<br />

Samantha David<br />

Brindisi<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

STP buses leave<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €0.80.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Braceria Da Soleti<br />

(115 Via Brindisi,<br />

Cisternino, tel: 073<br />

65082) Cisternino is<br />

famous for its meat,<br />

and this restaurant<br />

shows you why. Try<br />

not to eat too much<br />

antipasti because the<br />

main courses are huge.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Il Giardino (14–18<br />

Via Tarantini, tel: 0831<br />

22 40 26) On a warm<br />

evening, you can sit<br />

in the garden in a<br />

refi ned and elegant<br />

setting and peruse<br />

the diverse menu. The<br />

orechiette con funghi<br />

e vongole (clam and<br />

mushroom pasta) is<br />

particularly good.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Caff è<br />

Cavour (5 Corso<br />

Cavour, Ostuni, tel:<br />

0831 301 709) This is<br />

a classy bar upstairs<br />

and a luxury dining<br />

cave downstairs.<br />

Refi ned, elegant,<br />

warm and inviting,<br />

with excellent snacks<br />

and meals on off er.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Stone’s Café (Via<br />

Tevere, Torre Santa<br />

Sabina) A good<br />

bar-restaurant that<br />

gets lively on the<br />

weekends. DJs play<br />

soul and funky house<br />

late into the night.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO A walk around<br />

the Old Town will off er<br />

up many historical<br />

places of interest.<br />

Once a major military<br />

and ecclesiastical<br />

centre, there are many<br />

churches, shrines and<br />

Norman buildings to<br />

be found. Pop in to the<br />

Museo Archeologico<br />

Provinciale Ribezzo,<br />

which will help you<br />

understand the<br />

architecture. With<br />

exhibits dating back<br />

to the early Greek<br />

settlers, there is plenty<br />

to see that explains<br />

Brindisi’s fascinating<br />

origins and history<br />

(8 Piazza del Duomo).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Along the coast<br />

between Brindisi and<br />

Bari are 15th-century<br />

watchtowers that<br />

used to guard against<br />

invaders. Follow the<br />

brown signposts: they<br />

indicate the towers’<br />

locations, often next<br />

to nice beaches.<br />

Max Keep<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 115<br />

Bristol<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Barcelona, Belfast<br />

(BFS), Berlin, Bodrum,<br />

Bordeaux, Corfu,<br />

Crete (Heraklion),<br />

Cyprus (Paphos),<br />

Dalaman, Edinburgh,<br />

Faro, Fuerteventura,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow,<br />

Grenoble, Ibiza,<br />

Innsbruck, Inverness,<br />

Krakow, La Rochelle,<br />

Lisbon, Lyon, Madeira,<br />

Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Marseille,<br />

Menorca, Murcia,<br />

Naples, Newcastle,<br />

Nice, Olbia, Paris<br />

(CDG), Pisa, Prague,<br />

Rome, Salzburg, Split,<br />

Tenerife, Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £30.<br />

The Bristol<br />

Airport Flyer<br />

links to the city centre<br />

daily between 02.30<br />

and 00.45. Tickets: £7.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Za Za<br />

Bazaar (Cannon<br />

Road, tel: 01179 220<br />

330) Fixed-price<br />

all-you-can-eat buff et<br />

dining off ers a variety<br />

of global cuisine in a<br />

colourful and vibrant<br />

atmosphere. Za Za<br />

Bazaar is inspired by<br />

the spirit and buzz of<br />

Asia’s night markets.<br />

UP TO €30 The<br />

Spot Restaurant<br />

(Holiday Inn City<br />

Centre, Bond Street,<br />

tel: 0117 924 5000)<br />

The smart Spot off ers<br />

a classic menu. Food<br />

is sourced locally to<br />

enhance the menu’s<br />

regional fl avours.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Riverstation (The<br />

Grove, tel: 0117 914<br />

4434) An awardwinning<br />

conversion of<br />

a former police station,<br />

with stunning views of<br />

the old docks. Simple<br />

menus are available all<br />

day in the Deli Bar. The<br />

Riverstation’s kitchen<br />

won Menu of the Year<br />

in its fi rst year and<br />

continues to go from<br />

strength to strength.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Glass<br />

Boat (Welsh Back,<br />

Old City, tel: 0117<br />

929 0704) A lovingly<br />

THE BRISTOL<br />

HOTEL<br />

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Neighboured by<br />

the Old Vic and the<br />

cathedral, this hotel<br />

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converted barge<br />

located on the water<br />

of the Harbourside<br />

makes the Glass Boat<br />

one of Bristol’s premier<br />

venues for dining. The<br />

restaurant works with<br />

the best local suppliers<br />

to create simple,<br />

classic dishes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Watershed Media<br />

Centre (1 Canon’s<br />

Road, Harbourside, tel:<br />

0117 927 6444) For a<br />

laid-back evening of<br />

independent moviewatching<br />

and winesipping<br />

head to The<br />

Watershed. There’s a<br />

little terrace on which<br />

to enjoy a drink while<br />

watching the sun go<br />

down over the water.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Thekla (The Grove,<br />

East Mud Dock, tel:<br />

0117 929 3301) The<br />

Thekla is Bristol’s<br />

only music venue and<br />

nightclub on a boat,<br />

and it plays host to the<br />

best of the city’s weekly<br />

club nights. National<br />

and international live<br />

acts also take to the<br />

stage each week.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Lanes Bristol<br />

(22 Nelson Street,<br />

tel: 0117 325 1979)<br />

Off ering karaoke,<br />

bowling, dining,<br />

music and dancing all<br />

under one roof, The<br />

Lanes even features<br />

a cocktail bar made<br />

from bowling-lane<br />

wood.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP While away<br />

some hours in the<br />

Old City, with its<br />

cobbled streets and<br />

historic lanes. Here,<br />

St Nicholas Market<br />

teems with stalls<br />

selling jewellery<br />

and art, ethnic food<br />

and antiques: a real<br />

eclectic mix of goods.<br />

SEE A spectacular<br />

new production of<br />

Andrew Lloyd Webber’s<br />

The Phantom Of The<br />

Opera arrives at The<br />

Bristol Hippodrome<br />

this month. The show,<br />

which starts on 22<br />

May, has won over<br />

60 major theatre<br />

awards.<br />

GO Within walking<br />

distance of the city<br />

centre is North Street<br />

in Bedminster, popular<br />

with locals and visitors<br />

alike who enjoy<br />

unwinding in the many<br />

cafés, bars, shops<br />

and the well-known<br />

Tobacco Factory<br />

theatre, which has<br />

regular live music.<br />

ESCAPE<br />

A 30-minute drive east<br />

of the city, Westonbirt,<br />

is the National<br />

Arboretum, home<br />

to 3,000 diff erent<br />

species of trees and<br />

more than 16,000<br />

individual plants.<br />

Spring is one of the<br />

fi nest times of the<br />

year to visit.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The pirate Captain<br />

Blackbeard once had<br />

a hideaway under<br />

St Mary Redcliff e<br />

Church. His birthplace<br />

and childhood home<br />

still stands on<br />

Bristol’s harbourside.<br />

Anna Slade<br />

Brussels<br />

Belgium<br />

DIALLING CODE +32<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Geneva,<br />

Liverpool, Lyon, Milan<br />

(MXP), Nice, Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €45.<br />

Trains depart<br />

every 15 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €5 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 El Vergel<br />

(39 Rue du Trône, tel:<br />

02 502 6930) This café<br />

is popular with workers<br />

at the government<br />

ministries for its tasty<br />

Latin American and<br />

Mediterranean lunches<br />

and takeaways. The<br />

plat du jour – served in<br />

seriously large portions<br />

– is €10 .<br />

UP TO €30 Ma<br />

Folle de Soeur (53<br />

Chaussée de Charleroi,<br />

tel: 02 538 2239) A<br />

cosy restaurant with<br />

a range of European<br />

cuisine. Try the tapas<br />

fi nger food or the<br />

entrecôte à la Toscana<br />

infused with the<br />

fl avours of rocket and<br />

sun-dried tomatoes.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Jacques (44, Quai<br />

aux Briques, tel: 02<br />

513 2762) One of<br />

Brussels’ top fi sh<br />

restaurants is set<br />

in Ste Catherine<br />

on the old quays of<br />

the former port of<br />

Brussels. The simple<br />

interior, with tables<br />

overlooking the wide<br />

square, belies the<br />

quality of the cuisine.<br />

Try the delicious<br />

marinated herring<br />

fi lets or the very<br />

traditional Anguilles au<br />

Vert – eels served in a<br />

sorrel-based sauce.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

L’Ecailler du Palais<br />

Royal (18 Rue<br />

Bodenbroek, tel: 02<br />

512 8751) This is a<br />

top-class gastronomic<br />

restaurant with a<br />

relaxed ambience in<br />

the heart of Sablon.<br />

Linger over the entrée<br />

of delicate salmon<br />

mousse, the lobster<br />

ravioli with a subtle<br />

curry sauce and the<br />

lengthy wine list.<br />

THE DOMINICAN<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Book the Jacque-<br />

Louis David Suite at<br />

this historic hotel and<br />

stay where the artist<br />

lived and painted<br />

in the 19th century.<br />

From €130, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 117<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cirio<br />

(18 Rue de la Bourse,<br />

tel: 02 512 1395) Full<br />

of character – and<br />

characters – this bar,<br />

with its gilt chandeliers,<br />

comfortable velvet<br />

armchairs, whiteaproned<br />

waiters and<br />

long mahogany bar,<br />

has been a popular<br />

local for over a<br />

hundred years. One of<br />

Jacque Brel’s favourite<br />

watering holes, it<br />

serves a wide range<br />

of beers, champagne<br />

and wine.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Botanique (236 Rue<br />

Royale, tel: 02 218<br />

3732) This cultural<br />

centre, set in the<br />

former Botanical<br />

Gardens, is a great<br />

venue to catch all the<br />

latest groups in the<br />

Belgian capital as<br />

well as big European<br />

bands. All tastes from<br />

electro to house and<br />

rock are catered for.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

You (18 Rue<br />

Duquesnoy, tel: 02<br />

639 1400) On most<br />

nights, this centrally<br />

located club is packed,<br />

as the city’s youth<br />

rave to house music<br />

until late. Sunday<br />

night is gay night.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP One of<br />

the classiest and<br />

most-respected<br />

pastry makers and<br />

chocolatiers of<br />

Belgium is Wittamer.<br />

In the cosy shop, with<br />

its café above, you can<br />

take your time over<br />

the most delicious<br />

creations, including<br />

both edible and very<br />

drinkable smooth,<br />

dark chocolate (12<br />

Place du Grand<br />

Sablon).<br />

SEE The Queen<br />

Elizabeth International<br />

Musical festival,<br />

Belgium’s prestigious<br />

international<br />

competition for young<br />

classical musicians,<br />

takes place at a<br />

variety of locations<br />

throughout the Belgian<br />

capital (cmireb.be,<br />

until 26 May).<br />

GO Wander around<br />

the Sablon area of<br />

central Brussels, which<br />

has an incredible<br />

range of art galleries,<br />

restaurants and<br />

antique shops all within<br />

a short distance of<br />

each other in a series<br />

of pretty squares and<br />

narrow cobbled streets.<br />

ESCAPE At<br />

Ronquières, the<br />

inclined plane is an<br />

extraordinary feat of<br />

engineering. It replaced<br />

an arduous, 14-lock,<br />

70m climb on the<br />

Brussels-Charleroi<br />

canal with a 1.5km<br />

railway. Boat trips and<br />

organised tours are<br />

available. It takes 45<br />

minutes by train to<br />

Braine-le- Comte (voies<br />

deau.hainaut.be).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The imposing Royal<br />

Palace of Brussels,<br />

built in a similar<br />

neoclassical style to<br />

Buckingham Palace,<br />

has a façade 50 per<br />

cent longer than its<br />

British equivalent.<br />

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118 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Budapest<br />

Hungary<br />

DIALLING CODE +36<br />

CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Dortmund,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW,<br />

LTN), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

HUF5,100–HUF5,400.<br />

Trains leave<br />

Terminal 1 for<br />

Western station.<br />

Tickets: HUF455.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Ezüstponty Vendégl<br />

(96 Németvölgyi Ut,<br />

XII, tel: 319 1632) Head<br />

into Buda to fi nd this<br />

traditional restaurant,<br />

with a lovely shaded<br />

patio (and large play<br />

space for the kids). The<br />

speciality here is fi sh,<br />

but the menu off ers all<br />

sorts of Hungarian fare<br />

for reasonable prices.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Magyar 21 (21 Fortuna<br />

Utca, tel: 202 2113)<br />

The best choice for<br />

refuelling in the castle.<br />

All things Hungarian<br />

are the focus here,<br />

from home-style fruit<br />

syrups and pálinka<br />

(brandy) to deliciously<br />

modern versions of<br />

Hungarian classics.<br />

Tradition doesn’t mean<br />

folksy here: the décor<br />

is sleek and modern.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Csendes<br />

Társ (18 Magyar Utca)<br />

Located by Károlyi<br />

Kert, the city’s most<br />

beautiful enclosed<br />

park, Csendes Társ<br />

adds tables next to<br />

the park during the<br />

summer. Come for a<br />

glass of wine, coff ee<br />

or lemonade.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Szimpla Kert (14<br />

Kazinczy Utca, VII)<br />

One of the city’s<br />

most popular “ruin”<br />

bars, this alternative<br />

venue is in the shell<br />

of a classic Budapest<br />

apartment-house. But<br />

it’s more than a pub<br />

– it also has a cinema,<br />

exhibition area and<br />

hosts cultural events.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Children will love<br />

spending an afternoon<br />

at Mini City, an<br />

interactive city scaled<br />

down to children’s<br />

size. The place allows<br />

kids to create their<br />

own world as doctors,<br />

fi remen, newscasters<br />

or shopkeepers<br />

(1 Nyugati tér, VI).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Hungary no longer<br />

celebrates May<br />

Day with military<br />

processions and odes<br />

to the worker in front<br />

of oversized statues<br />

of dictators.<br />

Carolyn Bánfalvi<br />

Cagliari<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Geneva,<br />

London (STN), Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

ARST buses<br />

to the city<br />

centre leave every 30<br />

minutes. Tickets: €5.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Su<br />

Cumbidu (15 Via<br />

Napoli, tel: 070 660<br />

017) This is the place<br />

to go for authentic<br />

Sardinian food.<br />

The great-value set<br />

menus are based on<br />

pasta, vegetables<br />

and meat dishes.<br />

Just choose the<br />

number of courses<br />

you want – it’s real<br />

Italy where fi vecourse<br />

meals are<br />

de riguer.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Tao<br />

(48 Via Sonnino,<br />

tel: 070 857 7572)<br />

Modern and elegant<br />

Japanese restaurant<br />

with very attentive<br />

service and superb<br />

cuisine that off ers<br />

much more than<br />

Sitting S comfortably?<br />

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

the usual sushi and<br />

sashimi. Delicious<br />

starters, fantastic<br />

soups and even some<br />

meat dishes: all<br />

absolutely fresh and<br />

prepared with care<br />

and real skill.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Roma (111 Via Roma,<br />

tel: 070 653 399)<br />

Enjoy an espresso in<br />

Café Roma right in<br />

front of the port – in<br />

this classic Italian<br />

café you can sit in<br />

the shade under the<br />

arcades and watch<br />

the people going by.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Oblomow (73 Corso<br />

Vittorio Emanuele)<br />

Right in the lively<br />

centre of Cagliari,<br />

Oblomow is a popular<br />

meeting spot for<br />

those who like to stay<br />

out and party with the<br />

best of them. Open<br />

till late in the warm<br />

months.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO If you want to<br />

work on your tan,<br />

head out to Cagliari’s<br />

small Calamosca<br />

beach. It’s protected<br />

from the winds,<br />

so it’s possible to<br />

sunbathe even very<br />

early in the year.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

“Lost between<br />

Europe and Africa”,<br />

was the description<br />

DH Lawrence once<br />

gave of Cagliari.<br />

Indeed, the city of<br />

Tunis is closer than<br />

Rome or Naples.<br />

Dario Henke<br />

Casablanca<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Lyon, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about MAD250.<br />

Trains depart<br />

every hour<br />

to Casa Voyageur.<br />

Tickets: MAD60.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Lina’s<br />

Beautiful Sandwich<br />

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TAXI<br />

OLIVE SOUKS<br />

GO Through a<br />

medieval archway<br />

in Habbous, fi nd<br />

yourself surrounded<br />

by vat upon vat of<br />

colourful, delicious<br />

homegrown olives<br />

of a dozen varieties.<br />

Tasting encouraged.<br />

Gautier, tel: 0522<br />

265 426) Want a light<br />

lunch but tired of fast<br />

food? Lina’s really<br />

does have beautiful<br />

sandwiches. Order a<br />

fancy-named creation<br />

or create your own.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Fibule (Boulevard de<br />

la Corniche, Ain Dïab,<br />

tel: 0522 360 641)<br />

Perched on the rocks<br />

next to the lighthouse,<br />

La Fibule invites you to<br />

enjoy fi ne Moroccan<br />

cuisine in one of its<br />

many peaceful and<br />

intimate dining rooms.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Hotel<br />

Bellerive (38<br />

Boulevard de la<br />

Corniche) Looking<br />

for a place to watch<br />

the sunset over the<br />

Atlantic without<br />

having to spend a<br />

fortune? This low-key<br />

hotel has a great patio<br />

in the garden: perfect<br />

for drinks and nibbles.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

B-Rock (55 Boulevard<br />

de la Corniche, tel:<br />

0522 362 626) This<br />

popular drinking and<br />

dancing establishment<br />

with friendly, low-key<br />

clientele and good<br />

nightly live music is<br />

a great place to rock<br />

your socks off !<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Casablanca and Rabat<br />

welcome more than<br />

half of all immigrants<br />

to Morocco. Of these,<br />

three main groups are<br />

visible: the Chinese,<br />

Subsaharans and<br />

the French.<br />

Cara Warkentin


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Catania<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva, London<br />

(LGW), Milan (MXP),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Route 457<br />

leaves every 20<br />

minutes stopping in<br />

the centre. Tickets:<br />

€1.50 on board.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Trattoria Aldo<br />

Di De Cento<br />

Concetta (2 Piazza<br />

Giuseppe Sciuti,<br />

tel: 095 311158) This<br />

restaurant is a must.<br />

Kind service and<br />

food of great quality.<br />

We recommend the<br />

fi sh and seafood<br />

dishes: astonishing!<br />

Restaurant open<br />

for lunch only.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ristorante Al<br />

Gabbiano (128, Via<br />

Giordano Bruno, tel:<br />

095 537842) This<br />

famous restaurant<br />

is known in the<br />

city for its modern<br />

elaboration of the<br />

Sicilian traditional<br />

cuisine. Local<br />

ingredients only.<br />

Speciality: seafood<br />

risotto. This is where<br />

you’ll also fi nd the<br />

fi nest service if you<br />

fancy being treated.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Bar Sinatra<br />

(Via Giardini, tel:<br />

095213012) Typical<br />

Sicilian café. Have a<br />

seat and relax, while<br />

drinking Italian coff ee<br />

espresso or having a<br />

delicious homemade<br />

gelato. Speciality:<br />

Sicilian granita.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Il Cantiniere (153,<br />

Viale della Libertà,<br />

tel: 095532122) This<br />

is one of the biggest<br />

wine bars in Italy. It<br />

off ers thousands of<br />

diff erent types and<br />

qualities of wine.<br />

Food also available.<br />

Open 9–2am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Taormina is a<br />

treasure! Located<br />

between Mount Etna<br />

and the sea, it off ers<br />

great panoramas,<br />

an ancient Greek<br />

theatre, churches,<br />

palaces and a lot of<br />

shops. To get there,<br />

take a train from<br />

Catania and then a<br />

bus or a taxi to the<br />

centre of Taormina.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The University<br />

of Catania is the<br />

oldest and biggest<br />

university in Sicily. It<br />

was build in 1434 and<br />

today has more than<br />

60,000 students.<br />

Alessandro Di Maio<br />

Cologne<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Edinburgh,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi to Cologne<br />

costs €25 and €40<br />

to Bonn.<br />

S-bahn trains<br />

leave for Cologne<br />

every 20 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €2.50.<br />

For Bonn, the<br />

bus leaves every<br />

30 minutes to one<br />

hour. Tickets: €6.90.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

My Indigo (28<br />

Habsburgerring, tel:<br />

0221 2779 8881)<br />

Wholesome soups,<br />

curries, noodles and<br />

salads come with a<br />

side order of New Age<br />

cool at MyIndigo, and<br />

with prices around the<br />

€5.50 mark, fuelling<br />

up healthily won’t<br />

break the bank.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Gruber’s (32 Clever<br />

Strasse, tel: 0221 720<br />

2670) From bread with<br />

pumpkin-seed pesto<br />

to the likes of cod with<br />

bergamot cream and<br />

oysters, Gruber’s puts a<br />

highly creative spin on<br />

Austrian cooking – but<br />

there’s classic schnitzel<br />

and apple strudel on<br />

the menu too.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Gedankengut (88<br />

Roonstrasse, tel:<br />

0221 2716 2977) With<br />

its mix-and-match<br />

furniture, cocktails, DJs<br />

and Tuesday comedy<br />

nights, Gedankengut is<br />

a versatile new addition<br />

to the city’s watering<br />

holes, complete with<br />

a full food menu.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Venus Celler (6<br />

Zülpicher Platz) It isn’t<br />

big and it’s certainly<br />

not fancy, but Venus<br />

Celler parties on<br />

later than just about<br />

any other club in the<br />

studenty Kwartier<br />

Lateng and that fact<br />

alone has made it<br />

something of a cult<br />

destination.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Theme-park fans<br />

should check out<br />

the thrills and spills<br />

of Phantasialand at<br />

Brühl on the city’s<br />

outskirts. It’s one of<br />

Germany’s best, with<br />

the fearsome Black<br />

Mamba rollercoaster<br />

(phantasialand.de).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Even iconic cars need<br />

servicing and, after<br />

20 years on the top<br />

of the Kölnisches<br />

Stadtmuseum, the<br />

winged Ford Fiesta<br />

is descending this<br />

spring for restoration.<br />

Neville Walker<br />

UNBEATABLE PRICES<br />

IF YOU FIND CHEAPER WE’LL REFUND<br />

DOUBLE THE DIFFERENCE * – GOOD LUCK!<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 119<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Denmark<br />

DIALLING CODE +45<br />

CURRENCY Krone (DKK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Geneva, Lisbon,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Madrid, Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about DKK220.<br />

Metro trains go<br />

to Nørreport<br />

station. Tickets:<br />

DKK34.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Ban<br />

Gaw (44 Halmtorvet,<br />

tel: 3325 4860) Many<br />

locals list this as<br />

their favourite Thai<br />

restaurant thanks to its<br />

no-frills atmosphere,<br />

friendly service, great<br />

prices and tasty<br />

authentic dishes,<br />

including a fabulous<br />

tom yum soup.<br />

UP TO €30 Café<br />

Petersborg (75<br />

Bredgade, tel: 3312<br />

5016) Open since<br />

1700, everything about<br />

this place is traditional<br />

Danish, from the cosy,<br />

old-fashioned interiors<br />

to the akvavit snaps.<br />

At lunch, choose from<br />

33 varieties of open<br />

sandwich and at dinner<br />

tuck into classics,<br />

including meatballs.<br />

UP TO €50 FAMO<br />

(3 Saxogade, tel:<br />

3323 2250) Head<br />

chef Fabbio Mazzon,<br />

previously of Michelinstar<br />

Italian restaurant<br />

Era Ora, off ers a<br />

four-course daily menu<br />

of rustic Italian food<br />

concocted from both<br />

Danish and Italian<br />

seasonal ingredients<br />

at this lovely, laidback<br />

restaurant in Vesterbro.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Orangeriet (13<br />

Kronprinsessegade,<br />

tel: 3311 1307) Located<br />

in one of the prettiest<br />

parks in Copenhagen,<br />

this light-fi lled, stylish<br />

restaurant is a tranquil<br />

spot for lunch or dinner.<br />

Chef Jasper Kure<br />

serves up generous<br />

and beautifully<br />

presented seasonal<br />

dishes, including many<br />

Danish classics such<br />

HOTEL KONG<br />

ARTHUR<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

The hotel’s view of<br />

the lakes and Helle<br />

Thorup Spa facilities<br />

make it a relaxing<br />

getaway on the<br />

border of town.<br />

From €201, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com<br />

Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers<br />

great car rental deals. For your discounted<br />

price book at<br />

easyJet.com or visit<br />

the Europcar desk.<br />

* Terms & conditions apply.


120 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Denmark<br />

as open sandwiches<br />

at lunch. The mussels<br />

with fennel fl akes are<br />

delicious on the set<br />

dinner menu .<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Christian<br />

5 (19 Nyhavn, tel: 3332<br />

0999) Enjoy the late<br />

afternoon sun and a<br />

nice cool beer at the<br />

tables spread outside<br />

this and other bars<br />

along the picturesque<br />

waterfront Nyhavn.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Café Selina (43<br />

Skindergade, tel:<br />

3312 1220) This cosy<br />

little bar with friendly<br />

bartenders lets you<br />

get right up close to<br />

jazz musicians several<br />

nights a week. It has<br />

live bands that play<br />

at the weekends too.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Oak Room (10<br />

Birkegade, tel: 3860<br />

3860) A safe bet for a<br />

great night out. Battle<br />

your way through<br />

the throng of people<br />

fi lling this long, narrow<br />

and trendy Nørrebro<br />

cocktail bar and you’ll<br />

be rewarded with a<br />

massive choice of<br />

wines and cocktails.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Want to look<br />

like a Copenhagen<br />

hipster? Head to<br />

Wood Wood, set up in<br />

2002 by three former<br />

students of Denmark’s<br />

Royal Design School<br />

and selling casual<br />

clothes designed<br />

in-house or sourced<br />

<br />

from brands including<br />

Comme Des Garçons<br />

(1 Grønnegade).<br />

SEE The Copenhagen<br />

Marathon takes place<br />

on 20 May. For fi tness<br />

fanatics, it’s a great<br />

way to see the city, or<br />

for the more sedate,<br />

position yourself<br />

along the inner-city<br />

route and witness the<br />

streets come to life<br />

with cheering, fl agwaving<br />

Danes.<br />

GO The 33-hectare<br />

site of the old Carlsberg<br />

brewery is fi lled with<br />

interesting historic<br />

buildings, including<br />

Carl Jacobsen House,<br />

the Elephant Gate<br />

and Tower and the<br />

Carlsberg Museum.<br />

If you go from 10–12<br />

May, you can enjoy<br />

the Copenhagen Beer<br />

Festival (ale.dk).<br />

ESCAPE The<br />

45-minute train ride<br />

north to Elsinore is<br />

well worth the eff ort<br />

as the town is packed<br />

with things to see and<br />

do including Kronborg<br />

Castle, made famous<br />

by Shakespeare’s<br />

Hamlet and now<br />

a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site. The<br />

old cobbled streets<br />

of the city are worth<br />

exploring too.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Copenhagen has<br />

over 100 public<br />

playgrounds, 28 of<br />

which are staff ed by<br />

trained educational<br />

personnel and more<br />

than a third of which<br />

are located within<br />

a green area.<br />

Cathy Strongman<br />

Corfu<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Bristol,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Manchester, Milan<br />

(MXP), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €12.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Fish<br />

Taverna Kalami<br />

(Boukari, SE Corfu,<br />

tel: 26620 53003)<br />

Dabble your toes in<br />

the sea while enjoying<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Galini (Agios<br />

Stefanos, NE Corfu,<br />

tel: 26630 81492)<br />

With its harbourside<br />

tables, this<br />

venue off ers a great<br />

location to savour<br />

local dishes. Try the<br />

swordfi sh kebabs.<br />

FILLER ADVERT<br />

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

fi sh caught by this<br />

taverna’s proprietors.<br />

Select juicy charcoalgrilled<br />

octopus as<br />

starter, with whole fi sh<br />

and garlic sauce for a<br />

luscious main course.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Netoikos (12–14<br />

Kalokeretou Street,<br />

Corfu Town, tel: 26610<br />

47479) Enjoy coff ee or<br />

something stronger<br />

while you catch up<br />

with business. The<br />

café has Wi-Fi.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Coconut Bar (Arillas)<br />

Locals and tourists<br />

meet at this brilliant<br />

nighttime venue.<br />

Regular live gigs<br />

showcase quality rock<br />

and Greek pop groups,<br />

and attract musiclovers<br />

from all over<br />

the island.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Head for Corfu<br />

Town on 21 May to<br />

admire the vibrant<br />

procession that<br />

celebrates the Ionian<br />

Islands’ Union with<br />

Greece in 1864.<br />

Philharmonic bands<br />

with stern offi cials<br />

march around the<br />

Esplanade Square.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

At 1,227mm, Corfu’s<br />

annual average<br />

precipitation is higher<br />

than Manchester’s<br />

(806 mm)! The good<br />

news is that most rain<br />

falls during winter,<br />

and the fi ve months<br />

of summer are<br />

generally dry.<br />

Hilary Paipeti<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Corsica<br />

(Ajaccio)<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

Route 8 buses go<br />

to the centre till<br />

11.15pm. Tickets: €4.50<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

U Pampasgiolu (15<br />

Rue de la Porta, tel:<br />

04 9550 7152) For<br />

top-quality Corsican<br />

food from an à-lacarte<br />

menu or for<br />

more speciality<br />

meals served on<br />

wooden platters,<br />

head to this rustic<br />

restaurant, where it<br />

is always packed.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Diamant Noir<br />

(Hotel Club Marinca,<br />

Olmetto Plage, tel:<br />

04 9570 0900)<br />

Enjoy a romantic<br />

candlelit dinner<br />

on a terrace that<br />

off ers a spectacular,<br />

panoramic view over<br />

the beach and out<br />

to sea. Fish is the<br />

house speciality.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Da<br />

Mamma (Passage<br />

Guinguette, tel: 04<br />

9521 3944) This<br />

down-to-earth<br />

Corsican eatery is<br />

neatly tucked away<br />

down an alleyway<br />

off Cours Napoleon.<br />

Enjoy your drink<br />

outside in a quaint<br />

tree-covered<br />

courtyard.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Casino d’Ajaccio<br />

(Boulevard Pascal<br />

Rossini, tel: 04 9550<br />

4060) The casino<br />

is a one-stop shop<br />

for food, drink and<br />

entertainment, and<br />

is particularly busy<br />

on Saturdays when<br />

you can celebrate<br />

your winnings, or<br />

commiserate your<br />

losses, in the house<br />

nightclub,which stays<br />

open until 3am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Explore hidden<br />

side streets of<br />

Ajaccio and fi nd<br />

the quirky Musée<br />

a Bandera, which<br />

off ers an insight<br />

into Corsican history<br />

up until World War<br />

II (1 Rue du Général<br />

Lévie, tel: 04<br />

9551 0734).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Well-known French<br />

actor and cabaret<br />

star Tino Rossi was<br />

born in Ajaccio. He<br />

is best known for his<br />

role in Marinella and<br />

the classic French<br />

Christmas song<br />

“Petit Papa Noel”.<br />

Katy Gillett


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Corsica<br />

(Bastia)<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Manchester,<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €50.<br />

Catch the airport<br />

bus to the<br />

Préfecture. Tickets: €9<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Day<br />

& Night (Place<br />

du Marché, tel: 04<br />

9558 3001) Enjoy<br />

mouthwatering<br />

ciabatta, hamburgers<br />

and panini, sweet<br />

and savoury, along<br />

with a cold beer from<br />

Bastia’s newest snack<br />

and beer bar.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

U Palazzu Serenu<br />

(Lieu-dit Paganacce,<br />

tel: 04 9538 3939) Fine<br />

dining, great service,<br />

magnifi cent views<br />

and some fantastic<br />

contemporary art<br />

(Daniel Arsham,<br />

Anish Kapoor, Manuel<br />

Mérida)... what more<br />

can one ask for?<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le Bar<br />

de la Citadelle (La<br />

Citadelle, tel: 04<br />

9531 2480) Arguably<br />

the best terrace in<br />

Bastia, with splendid<br />

views over the<br />

Mediterranean and<br />

ships as they come<br />

into port. Enjoy an<br />

aperitif in a cosy<br />

lounger as the<br />

sun sets.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Pub Assunta (4 Rue<br />

de la Fontanicchia, tel:<br />

04 9534 1140) Dine,<br />

drink and dance the<br />

night away, with<br />

afro-latino on<br />

Thursdays and discofunk<br />

on Fridays.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE See a unique<br />

exhibition at the<br />

Bastia museum called<br />

Bastia 43, the Italian<br />

Occupation Viewed by<br />

Children (1942–1943).<br />

An insightful art<br />

teacher asked her<br />

students to portray<br />

their daily experiences<br />

under the occupation.<br />

The children’s and the<br />

teacher’s drawings<br />

provide us with a<br />

rare, touching insight<br />

in to this dark time<br />

in Corsica’s history<br />

(Place du Donjon,<br />

Citadelle, tel: 04<br />

9531 0912).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Corsica has a rich<br />

variety of fl ora,<br />

including a whopping<br />

296 endemic species,<br />

which constitute 12%<br />

of the island’s wildlife.<br />

Stacy Jouve<br />

Crete<br />

(Chania)<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Buses run six<br />

times a day to<br />

the city centre from<br />

6.40am–8.45pm.<br />

Tickets: €2.30.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

EXCLUSIVE Suki<br />

Yaki (28 Halidon<br />

Street, tel: 28210<br />

95955) This gem of<br />

a restaurant, tucked<br />

down a small alley off<br />

Halidon Street, serves<br />

excellent and authentic<br />

Chinese food in<br />

beautiful surroundings.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Four<br />

Seasons (Akti<br />

Kountouriotou, tel:<br />

2821 055 583) Enjoy a<br />

relaxing early-evening<br />

drink as you watch<br />

the world go by at this<br />

popular harbour-front<br />

café and bar. Get there<br />

early before the latenight<br />

crowds.<br />

LUXURY VILLAS<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Monastiri Taverna<br />

(12 Akti Tompazi,<br />

tel: 2821 055 527)<br />

Set on the harbour<br />

front, Monastiri<br />

serves fresh,<br />

home-cooked food,<br />

including a large<br />

variety of starters.<br />

FILLER ADVERT<br />

NOW AVAILABLE FOR SALE<br />

IN CRETE from 299,900 euros<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

El Mondo Bar<br />

(Kondilaki Street,<br />

Old Town) An old<br />

favourite in the<br />

harbour night scene,<br />

El Mondo is decorated<br />

with hundreds of old<br />

dollar bills, photos and<br />

other memorabilia.<br />

Rock classics, modern<br />

rock and dance<br />

music all play.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Entrance is free<br />

to Greece’s museums<br />

and archaeological<br />

sites on 18 May,<br />

International<br />

Museums Day.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Greeks consume the<br />

most olive oil in the<br />

world per capita, with<br />

Cretans consuming<br />

the most in Greece.<br />

The average Greek<br />

consumes more than<br />

15 kilos per year, while<br />

in Crete it exceeds<br />

20 kilos per person<br />

per year.<br />

Carol Palioudakis<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 121<br />

Crete<br />

(Heraklion)<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Bristol,<br />

Geneva, London<br />

(LGW, LTN), Madrid,<br />

Manchester, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris<br />

(CDG), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €14.<br />

Buses run every<br />

10 minutes to the<br />

centre. Tickets: €1.10.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Erganos (5 Georgiadi,<br />

tel: 28 1028 5629)<br />

This cosy taverna<br />

epitomises everything<br />

Cretan., especially the<br />

delicious food. Feast<br />

on dakos, creamy<br />

cheese rusks, homecooked<br />

meat and<br />

vegetable dishes.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Loukoulos (5 Korai,<br />

tel: 2810 224 435)<br />

Set in a beautifully<br />

renovated neoclassical<br />

building, this restaurant<br />

has a reputation to<br />

match the fi ne décor<br />

and furnishings.<br />

For further information or to request a brochure visit www.caversham-barnes.com or call +44 (0)7904 345 567<br />

The menu is a mix<br />

of Mediterranean<br />

styles – Greek, Italian<br />

and French – and<br />

there’s a small outside<br />

courtyard with tables.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Central<br />

Park (19 Arkoleontos,<br />

tel: 2810 346 500)<br />

The outdoor terrace<br />

of the trendy Central<br />

Park café-come-bar,<br />

opposite the busy El<br />

Greco park square,<br />

is a great place for<br />

people-watching.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Mayo Café-<br />

Bar (Milatou &<br />

Miramvellou) The<br />

tables at this bar spill<br />

out on to a lively street<br />

in Heraklion’s central<br />

nightlife area, while<br />

the indoor bar rocks<br />

until the early hours.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Head to the<br />

countryside on 1 May,<br />

a national holiday to<br />

celebrate the Feast of<br />

the Flowers. Families<br />

traditionally picnic and<br />

gather wild fl owers to<br />

make wreaths, which<br />

are hung on cars and<br />

homes. During the<br />

rest of the month, the<br />

spring fl owers can be<br />

appreciated in many of<br />

the meadows around<br />

the countryside.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Wreaths of May Day<br />

fl owers, hung outside<br />

homes on 1 May, are<br />

traditionally left in<br />

place until the festival<br />

of St John the Baptist<br />

on 24 June.<br />

Carol Palioudakis<br />

CB<br />

Caversham-<br />

Barnes<br />

Exclusive<br />

property<br />

developers


122 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Cyprus<br />

(Larnaca)<br />

Cyprus<br />

DIALLING CODE +357<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €15.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Lambros (Cessac,<br />

Dhekelia, tel: 2472<br />

3206) Well known<br />

for its fi sh and chips,<br />

this place also serves<br />

steak and kebabs.<br />

Situated on Cessac<br />

beach, there’s ample<br />

parking too.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Black Turtle Tavern<br />

(11 Mehmet Ali<br />

Street, tel: 2465<br />

0661) Traditional<br />

entertainment and<br />

food. Listen to live<br />

bands playing Cypriot<br />

music on Fridays and<br />

Saturdays. They only<br />

serve mezze, but<br />

there’s a wide range<br />

of dishes on off er and<br />

they are delicious.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Meeting<br />

Pub (Athene Avenue,<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

Making<br />

Waves<br />

All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />

in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />

offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />

Achtung Ac Acht ht httun un ung g Baby! Ba Baby by by!<br />

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001_ej_Cover May.indd 1 13/04/<strong>2012</strong> 11:46<br />

tel: 2465 6893) This<br />

seaside pub-café<br />

is a favourite stop<br />

off . Good food,<br />

reasonable prices<br />

and pleasant<br />

staff make sure<br />

customers return.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Blue Pine (3<br />

Louki Pierides, tel:<br />

2464 6553) One<br />

of Larnaca’s longestablished<br />

bars,<br />

where rock music<br />

plays constantly.<br />

It regularly holds<br />

live music nights<br />

and football-viewing<br />

events, and it has a<br />

large smoking area.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The Anthestiria,<br />

or Flower Festival,<br />

is a colourful<br />

parade of fl owerdecorated<br />

fl oats,<br />

walking groups,<br />

entertainment and<br />

fi reworks. It’s a real<br />

sight to see (5 May at<br />

Athens Avenue and<br />

the Seafront Stage).<br />

Bev Orton Jennings<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Oroklini Lake is a<br />

Natura 2000 site<br />

and is important for<br />

two bird species: the<br />

black-winged stilt<br />

and the spur-winged<br />

lapwing. In total, 190<br />

bird species have<br />

been recorded here.<br />

Cyprus<br />

(Paphos)<br />

Cyprus<br />

DIALLING CODE +357<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol,<br />

Edinburgh, London<br />

(LGW, LTN),<br />

Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

Buses run to<br />

Paphos harbour<br />

every hour. Tickets: €1.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Ocean<br />

Basket (Avanti Village,<br />

tel: 26 961 379) As<br />

the name suggests,<br />

this popular South<br />

African chain serves<br />

superb seafood<br />

dishes ranging from<br />

fi sh and chips to<br />

well-presented combo<br />

platters to share. The<br />

staff are friendly and<br />

service is swift.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Asiachi Restaurant<br />

(Amathus Beach Hotel,<br />

Poseidon Avenue, tel:<br />

26 883 300) Dress up<br />

and enjoy some of the<br />

best sushi in Paphos.<br />

Its chic lighting and<br />

fi ne service make<br />

this stylish Asian<br />

restaurant ideal for<br />

a special dinner.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Kafe<br />

Pariz (Corner of<br />

Makarios Avenue,<br />

tel: 96 483 432)<br />

Convenently located at<br />

the top of a shopping<br />

street, Makarios<br />

Avenue, Kafe Pariz is a<br />

cosy watering hole for<br />

cake and coff ee by day<br />

and a drink by night.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Temple Pub and Café<br />

(April 1 Street, tel: 96<br />

727 314) Local rock<br />

bands perform at the<br />

friendly, cosy Temple,<br />

housed in a renovated<br />

traditional Cypriot<br />

house with indoor and<br />

courtyard seating.<br />

Local and imported<br />

beers are on the menu.<br />

Casual dress is fi ne<br />

for this venue that is<br />

popular with locals.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE A short drive<br />

east of Paphos<br />

leads to Kouklia, the<br />

site of the ancient<br />

temple complex<br />

where Aphrodite was<br />

worshipped. Adjacent<br />

to the remains is<br />

a museum, which<br />

houses fi nds from<br />

the site, including a<br />

large, black meteorite<br />

that represented the<br />

goddess.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

If you think halloumi<br />

cheese is Greek,<br />

you’re wrong. It’s<br />

100% Cypriot and is<br />

delicious grilled.<br />

Lucie Robson/lintv.eu<br />

Dalaman<br />

Turkey<br />

DIALLING CODE +90<br />

CURRENCY TRY<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol,<br />

Edinburgh, London<br />

(LGW, STN),<br />

Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs TRY40.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Doyum 1 (Merkez<br />

Camii Arkasi, tel:<br />

0252 692 4899)<br />

Try an extra-special<br />

traditional Turkish<br />

pide (fl atbread with<br />

fi llings). Follow with<br />

a glass of ayran,<br />

which is similar to<br />

lassi. What a way<br />

to start the day!<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Karya Restaurant-<br />

Kafe (Mugla Fethiye<br />

Karayolu 276,<br />

Yerbelen Mah, Ortaca,<br />

tel: 0252 282 9000)<br />

Try this superb eatery<br />

where quality food<br />

at sensible prices<br />

is the norm. Start<br />

with a fresh mezze<br />

and follow with a<br />

mouthwatering steak.<br />

Simply delicious.<br />

Are you interested in advertising to<br />

5m passengers per month?<br />

Please contact our advertising sales team<br />

on +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Cadde Café &<br />

Bar (Cumhurriyet<br />

Cadessi, 7A Firat<br />

Apartments, tel:<br />

0252 692 2426)<br />

Boasting a cinemasize<br />

TV and musical<br />

entertainment, a<br />

relaxing, Englishstyle<br />

bar ideal for<br />

starting an evening<br />

of enjoyment.<br />

Conversation<br />

fl ows between locals<br />

and expats over<br />

anything from strong<br />

coff ee to throatburning<br />

spirits.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

M and S Club (Main<br />

Street, Sarigerme,<br />

tel: 0252 286 8366)<br />

Join DJ Ismail at<br />

this small, intimate<br />

disco-club, playing<br />

the latest in dance<br />

music till 5am. Don’t<br />

miss the spectacular<br />

parties on Friday and<br />

Saturday nights.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Enjoy the<br />

delights of daily, live,<br />

open-air concerts<br />

given by top Turkish<br />

artists and pick up<br />

the bargain of your<br />

holiday in the street<br />

markets at the<br />

Dalaman Culture<br />

and Tourism Festival<br />

held 9–13 May.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Iztuzu beach, near<br />

Dalyan, is one of<br />

the few remaining<br />

locations suitable for<br />

the loggerhead turtle<br />

(carreta carreta) to<br />

safely lay her eggs.<br />

Rod Harrison


SETTING STANDARDS<br />

I N T H E H E A R T O F T H E M E D I T E R R A N E A N<br />

Tumas Developments, 1052 Portomaso, St Julian’s, STJ 4011, Malta<br />

Tel Tumas : (+356) Developments, 21 386 802 Mob 1052 : (+356) Portomaso, 79 497 504 St Julian’s, STJ 4011, Malta<br />

Email Tel : : (+356)<br />

info@tumasdevelopments.com<br />

21 386 802 Mob : (+356) Web 79 497 : www.tumasdevelopments.com<br />

504<br />

Email : info@tumasdevelopments.com Web : www.tumasdevelopments.com<br />

LUXURY LIVING<br />

on the island of Malta<br />

Tumas Developments proudly offer Malta’s<br />

most exclusive, standard setting lifestyle<br />

addresses. All three award-winning projects<br />

boast the most spectacular waterfront views<br />

on the island and offer Special Designated<br />

Area benefits, which means that property<br />

can be purchased under the same<br />

conditions as locals. Being a member of the<br />

EU with growing business incentives and<br />

voted as having “The Best Climate on<br />

Earth”, Malta is the ideal destination.


Available in the best European airports<br />

PROTECTION<br />

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Dortmund<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Barcelona,<br />

Budapest, London<br />

(LTN), Majorca,<br />

Thessaloniki, Zagreb<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €22.<br />

The Airport<br />

Express leaves<br />

every hour. Tickets: €6.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Incontro (22<br />

Kleppingstrasse,<br />

tel: 0231 533 0200)<br />

Staff members here,<br />

Dortmund’s best<br />

Italian restaurant,<br />

are known to break<br />

into song. It’s one of<br />

the most fashionable<br />

places in town, with<br />

excellent food.<br />

EXCLUSIVE George<br />

Fine Dine (Pullman<br />

Dortmund, 88<br />

Lindemannstrasse, tel:<br />

0231 911 3869) One of<br />

Germany’s best chefs,<br />

Sascha Heitfeld, serves<br />

inspired dishes to a<br />

small group of people<br />

at this restaurant.<br />

Expect a varied menu,<br />

with delicacies such as<br />

crawfi sh burger, T-bone<br />

steak and bison fi llet.<br />

Bookings only.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Firebowl<br />

(35–37 Kampstrasse,<br />

tel: 0231 163 030)<br />

Hidden on the top<br />

fl oor of a city-centre<br />

shopping mall, this fun<br />

24-lane bowling centre<br />

has a bar, restaurant,<br />

billiards and is open<br />

very late at weekends.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Domicil Jazzclub<br />

(7–11 Hansastrasse,<br />

tel: 0231 862 9030)<br />

A converted 1950s’<br />

cinema off ers a<br />

phenomenal range of<br />

acts every week, from<br />

jazz to Balkan beats,<br />

rock and soul. There’s a<br />

good café and bar, too.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO During the DFB<br />

Cup fi nal (held in Berlin<br />

on 12 May) local team<br />

BVB – Germany’s<br />

best football club with<br />

the best fans – plays<br />

against either Borussia<br />

Mönchengladbach or<br />

Bayern München. If<br />

BVB wins, it’ll be the<br />

party of the year, head<br />

to the pubs and streets<br />

here to see the action.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Adler pharmacy<br />

sells off surplus<br />

items from its small<br />

museum collection;<br />

your chance to buy<br />

enema syringes, glass<br />

vessels, opium pipes<br />

and other antique<br />

medical instruments.<br />

Jeroen van Marle/<br />

inyourpocket.com<br />

Dresden<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Catch the<br />

S-Bahn to<br />

Dresden, which runs<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €2 single.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Café<br />

Weinberg (12 Kaitzer<br />

Weinberg, tel: 0351<br />

4042480) Café<br />

Weinberg has long<br />

been a local favourite,<br />

not just for the<br />

excellent view of the<br />

Elbe valley into the<br />

Sandstone Mountains,<br />

but also for the variety<br />

of hearty meals.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Lingnerterrassen<br />

(132 Bautzner Strasse,<br />

tel: 0351 456 8510)<br />

Located in a villa<br />

named for its former<br />

owner, Herr Lingner,<br />

the restaurant is a<br />

provision of his last<br />

will and testament.<br />

With a menu ranging<br />

from conventional<br />

to modern creations,<br />

it’s the perfect mix of<br />

old and new.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Mondpalast /<br />

Bon Voyage (77<br />

Louisenstrasse, tel:<br />

0351 5634050)<br />

The Bon Voyage bar<br />

in the Mondpalast<br />

is a great place<br />

to make friends<br />

from Dresden and<br />

international folk from<br />

the adjoining hostel.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Strasse E (2 Werner-<br />

Hartmann-Strasse,<br />

tel: 0351 86660) In<br />

a former industrial<br />

location in Dresden,<br />

Strasse E is the<br />

one-stop shop for<br />

nightlife. There’s a<br />

dance fl oor for every<br />

taste. Strasse E is<br />

the counterpoint to<br />

Dresden’s Old City,<br />

embodying the city’s<br />

youth culture.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO This month, all<br />

of Dresden will be<br />

a jazz stage for the<br />

42nd Dixieland<br />

Festival. More than<br />

seven million people<br />

and eight hundred<br />

bands come together<br />

in the city to dixie<br />

rhythms. Look for<br />

concerts in clubs,<br />

on steam boats<br />

or in restaurants<br />

(tel: 0351 486 6666,<br />

dixieland.de).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In the north of<br />

Dresden is the third<br />

largest city forest in<br />

Germany, a popular<br />

recreational and<br />

sport destination<br />

for Dresdeners.<br />

Toby Crowley<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 125<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

Croatia<br />

DIALLING CODE +385<br />

CURRENCY KUNA (HRK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Geneva,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />

Paris (ORY), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

around 200HRK.<br />

Shuttle buses<br />

run to the centre.<br />

Tickets: 35HRK.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Magellan (7A Ive<br />

Vojnovia, tel: 020<br />

333594) Savour the<br />

cheery warmth of the<br />

Dalmatian sun even<br />

if you’re sitting in the<br />

fabulous indoor dining<br />

area. Memorable<br />

meals with top-notch<br />

service are only steps<br />

away from some of<br />

Lapad’s favourite<br />

hotels and beaches.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Vapor<br />

(7 Pere ingrije, tel: 020<br />

330888) A welcoming<br />

glow radiates from the<br />

understated elegance<br />

of this restaurant in<br />

the Bellevue Hotel.<br />

Fine food with a view<br />

that leaves nothing to<br />

be desired... except<br />

another visit.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Panorama Café (Sr<br />

Hill) The only way to<br />

really know Dubrovnik<br />

is from the breathtaking<br />

view atop<br />

Mount Sr. Make the<br />

most of the journey<br />

by staying a while<br />

for mouth-watering<br />

cheesecakes and<br />

excellent coff ee in this<br />

mountain-top café.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

SkyBar (1 Marojice<br />

Kaboge) This bar<br />

exudes an ambience<br />

that’s quickly made it<br />

a local favourite. The<br />

good food and great<br />

drinks make it enticing<br />

even in the wee hours<br />

of the morning.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Vrnik island, from its<br />

Hagia Sophia to the<br />

White House, was built<br />

using marble from the<br />

29 quarries that have<br />

been in use here since<br />

the Roman era.<br />

Jenna Parish/<br />

In Your Pocket<br />

WORMS AND<br />

MORE<br />

SEE Observe and<br />

participate in the<br />

traditional production<br />

of silk thread. After<br />

this experience,<br />

you’ll have another<br />

reason to adore this<br />

fabric (Silk, Deša,<br />

8 Frana Supila).


126 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Düsseldorf<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

London (LGW), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Trains to the<br />

Hauptbahnhof<br />

leave every 15 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €2.30.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Vietnam Tú (39<br />

Bolkerstrasse, tel: 0211<br />

9119 1315) The plump<br />

summer rolls and<br />

fragrant noodle soups<br />

at Vietnam Tú make a<br />

healthy alternative to<br />

kebabs or currywurst<br />

– and the kitchen stays<br />

open until midnight.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Café<br />

de Bretagne (7<br />

Benrather Strasse,<br />

tel: 0211 5694 0775)<br />

Bright, wholesome<br />

Café de Bretagne is a<br />

blast of fresh Atlantic<br />

air in the elegant<br />

Carlstadt, with a menu<br />

rich in oysters, lobster<br />

and caviar, plus lavish<br />

plateaux de fruits<br />

de mer to share.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Haifi schbecken<br />

(108 Moltkestrasse,<br />

tel: 0151 1021 0674)<br />

There’s an underwater<br />

theme to Pempelfort’s<br />

latest café-bar:<br />

Haifi schbecken means<br />

“shark basin”. Dive in<br />

for a cool ambiance,<br />

cosmopolitan menu,<br />

cocktails and top DJs.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Checker’s Club<br />

(28–30 Königsallee,<br />

tel: 02131 2985<br />

2501) Supermodel<br />

Claudia Schiff er<br />

was discovered at<br />

Checker’s Club and,<br />

just like Schiff er, the<br />

club is as fresh and<br />

stylish as ever, with<br />

everything from R’n’B<br />

nights to Turkish<br />

and urban sounds.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Fine weather<br />

makes a visit to pretty<br />

Schloss Benrath –<br />

Düsseldorf’s sole<br />

example of a<br />

Baroque palace –<br />

almost irresistible.<br />

From the ornate<br />

interiors of the Corps<br />

de Logis to the lush<br />

hunting park, this<br />

stately home is a cut<br />

above (schlossbenrath.de).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Sheep graze the<br />

Rhine’s grassy banks<br />

directly opposite<br />

Düsseldorf’s Altstadt,<br />

giving drinkers<br />

on the waterfront<br />

an incongruously<br />

pastoral view right in<br />

the heart of the city.<br />

Neville Walker<br />

Edinburgh<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Athens,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />

Cologne, Cyprus<br />

(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />

Geneva, Grenoble,<br />

Krakow, Lisbon, London<br />

(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,<br />

Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />

Munich, Majorca,<br />

Naples, Nice, Paris<br />

(CDG), Tenerife<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £15.<br />

The Airlink 100<br />

express service<br />

goes to the centre.<br />

Tickets: £6.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 The<br />

Storytelling Café (43<br />

High Street, tel: 0131<br />

556 9579)<br />

The café in the<br />

Scottish Storytelling<br />

Centre on the Royal<br />

Mile is bright and<br />

airy. A great<br />

selection of homebaked<br />

goodies is<br />

complemented with<br />

salads and light bites.<br />

UP TO €30 The<br />

Basement Bar and<br />

Restaurant (10A<br />

Broughton Street, tel:<br />

0131 557 0097) This<br />

spacious underground<br />

bar has a laid-back<br />

atmosphere that spills<br />

over into the slightly<br />

more formal dining<br />

area. The fi sh is always<br />

worth considering<br />

from a menu of<br />

well-constructed<br />

combinations, which<br />

changes every evening.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Wedgwood the<br />

Restaurant (267<br />

Canongate, tel: 0131<br />

558 8737) Fine dining<br />

on the Royal Mile in<br />

a calm and friendly<br />

atmosphere. Head<br />

chef Paul Wedgwood<br />

has a fanatical attitude<br />

to Scottish produce<br />

– from sustainably<br />

sourced seafood to<br />

locally foraged leaves.<br />

His attention to detail<br />

is refl ected in elegantly<br />

crafted food on a menu<br />

that varies according<br />

to season.<br />

THE BONHAM<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

This boutique hotel<br />

boasts brilliant<br />

colours and a vibrant<br />

crowd, with work by<br />

Scottish artists<br />

hung throughout.<br />

From €84, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

EXCLUSIVE The<br />

Tower (Chambers<br />

Street, tel: 0131 225<br />

3003) On the rooftop<br />

of the Museum of<br />

Scotland, this venue<br />

lends a real air of<br />

celebration to any<br />

meal, with cityscape<br />

views across the Old<br />

Town to the castle. The<br />

menu and ambience<br />

live up to the setting<br />

with a menu based<br />

on seasonal Scottish<br />

ingredients, prepared<br />

in a relaxed unfussy<br />

style, and a seriously<br />

long wine list to match.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Villager<br />

(49 George IV Bridge,<br />

tel: 0131 226 2781)<br />

A serious attention<br />

to the art of lounging<br />

means this large,<br />

comfy bar off the<br />

Royal Mile is a great<br />

location for a long<br />

and lazy afternoon.<br />

A sophisticated<br />

selection of decadent<br />

cocktails makes it all<br />

the more pleasant.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Bannerman’s Bar<br />

(212 Cowgate, tel:<br />

0131 556 3254) Loud,<br />

local bands more<br />

than make up for the<br />

diminished sound<br />

quality, caused by this<br />

bar’s vaulted ceiling,<br />

with enthusiasm from<br />

the stage.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Opal Lounge (51<br />

George Street, tel:<br />

0131 226 2275)<br />

Upmarket clubbing<br />

in the heart of the<br />

New Town. Open until<br />

3am nightly with a<br />

selection of guest DJs.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP A hot spot<br />

for traditional and<br />

contemporary Scottish<br />

folk music, Coda is<br />

just off the Royal Mile.<br />

A friendly shop that<br />

also boasts a strong<br />

selection of country,<br />

blues and world music<br />

(12 Bank Street).<br />

SEE The National<br />

Theatre of Scotland<br />

takes up residence<br />

at the Traverse all<br />

month with its Òran<br />

Mór collaboration of<br />

lunchtime theatre in A<br />

Play, a Pie and a Pint.<br />

The bite-size off erings<br />

are inspired by artists<br />

living in Lebanon,<br />

Morocco and Syria.<br />

GO The village of<br />

Cramond is at the<br />

end of the 41 bus<br />

route, where the river<br />

Almond enters the<br />

Firth of Forth. It is safe<br />

to cross the causeway<br />

to Crasmond Island for<br />

two hours either side of<br />

low water; or just take a<br />

wander up the river.<br />

ESCAPE St Abbs<br />

Head sticks out into<br />

the North Sea and is<br />

a 40-minute drive east<br />

of Edinburgh. There<br />

are easy cliff -top walks<br />

past the precipitous<br />

nesting ledges of<br />

thousands of seabirds,<br />

and the harbours of St<br />

Abbs and Eyemouth<br />

to explore.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Cramond is the earliest<br />

known site of human<br />

settlement in Scotland.<br />

Archaeological<br />

remains go back to<br />

around 8,500 BC.<br />

Thom Dibdin<br />

HAVE YOU DISCOVERED THE<br />

WORLD’S FAVOURITE FESTIVAL CITY?<br />

Go to page 33


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More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Faro<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel, Belfast<br />

(BFS), Bristol, Geneva,<br />

Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

SEN, STN), Newcastle,<br />

Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Faro is<br />

about €10, Albufeira<br />

€50 and Lagos €90.<br />

The bus departs<br />

to Faro bus<br />

station every 40–60<br />

minutes. Tickets: €1.65.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Café do<br />

Coreto (Jardim Mauel<br />

Bívar, tel: 289 822<br />

964) With outdoor<br />

seating facing Faro’s<br />

marina and brisk<br />

waiter service, this is<br />

a lovely spot for an al<br />

fresco salad, pizza,<br />

sandwich or drink.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Adega Dois Irmãos<br />

(14 Largo Terreiro<br />

do Bispo, tel: 289<br />

823 337) Once a<br />

welder’s shop but<br />

now a beautifully<br />

tiled restaurant with<br />

its own patio garden,<br />

this is the best place<br />

in central Faro for<br />

www.qpm-properties.com<br />

qpm.lagos@gmail.com<br />

(00351) 282 094280<br />

good-value fresh fi sh<br />

and seafood, much of<br />

which you can admire<br />

fi rst in the counter.<br />

UP TO €50 Casa<br />

do Lago (Aldeamento<br />

Quinta do Lago,<br />

Almancil, tel: 289 394<br />

911) One of Quinta<br />

do Lago’s oldest<br />

restaurants, with a<br />

great terrace facing<br />

a lake, Casa do Lago<br />

specialises in fresh<br />

fi sh and seafood.<br />

There are cataplana<br />

(seafood stews), rice<br />

and pasta dishes as<br />

well as steaks and<br />

chicken. Starters<br />

are also unmissable,<br />

including bulhão pato<br />

(a delicious dish with<br />

clams), scallops,<br />

oysters and fi sh cakes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Hotel<br />

Faro (2 Praça Dr<br />

Francisco Gomes, tel:<br />

289 830 830) Head<br />

to the top fl oor of this<br />

modern hotel for its<br />

roof terrace bar (open<br />

to non-guests). The<br />

views are sublime,<br />

looking out across<br />

Faro’s harbourside<br />

gardens and the sea<br />

beyond.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Sociedade<br />

Recreativa Artistica<br />

Farense (10 Rua do<br />

Montepio, tel: 289<br />

822 988) Faro’s<br />

Recreational Arts<br />

Society is a small<br />

club where local<br />

bands cut their teeth:<br />

these can be hit or<br />

miss, but you can<br />

sometimes catch an<br />

up-and-coming rock,<br />

folk or jazz gem.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

T Clube (Buganvilla<br />

Plaza, Quinta do<br />

Lago, tel: 289 396<br />

751) The upmarket<br />

resort of Quinta<br />

do Lago’s place to<br />

be seen, T-Clube is<br />

where the rich and<br />

famous like to party.<br />

So look your best and<br />

expect to queue at<br />

weekends to hit this<br />

sophisticated club.<br />

Topas Disco<br />

(Sitio da Botelha,<br />

Sagres) Sagres is<br />

western Algarve’s<br />

serious party town,<br />

so round off the<br />

night with some<br />

thumping music<br />

and an extensive<br />

drinks selection. If<br />

you’re staying at the<br />

campsite, even better<br />

– it’s only a short<br />

stagger home.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Just west<br />

of Faro, Quarteira<br />

is both a resort and<br />

lively fi shing port<br />

and its market is<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Fortaleza da Luz<br />

(3 Avenida dos<br />

Pescadores, Praia da<br />

Luz) Dine in a 17thcentury<br />

fort. Using<br />

organic ingredients,<br />

the menu features<br />

fresh fi sh and classic<br />

dishes such as lamb.<br />

one of the best in<br />

the entire region for<br />

fi sh and seafood.<br />

On Wednesdays, a<br />

weekly fl ea market<br />

sells everything from<br />

bargain clothes to<br />

tools and ceramics.<br />

SEE The world’s<br />

best drivers on water<br />

head to Portimão<br />

for the Grand Prix F1<br />

Power Boat World<br />

Championships<br />

(f1h20.com) on<br />

21-22 May, a hugely<br />

impressive race<br />

around the estuary of<br />

the Rio Arade.<br />

GO One of the<br />

Algarve’s loveliest<br />

beaches, Praia<br />

do Faro, is just<br />

minutes away from<br />

Faro’s airport. It’s<br />

a fantastic, narrow<br />

stretch of sands<br />

on an elongated<br />

sandspit island.<br />

ESCAPE Head to<br />

Fóia, the Algarve’s<br />

highest mountain<br />

with dazzling views<br />

over the coast. At<br />

the adjacent village<br />

of Monchique, the<br />

Atacar o Maio festival<br />

welcomes in the<br />

month with bolo de<br />

tacho, a cake made<br />

from honey and<br />

chocolate, washed<br />

down with schnappslike<br />

medronho.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

White storks nest<br />

on virtually every<br />

tall tree and tower in<br />

the Algarve in spring:<br />

it’s considered bad<br />

luck if the storks do<br />

not return to nest<br />

each year.<br />

Matthew Hancock<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 129<br />

Fez<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about 120MAD.<br />

Buses run to<br />

the train station<br />

in the New City.<br />

Tickets: 20MAD.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Thami’s Restaurant<br />

(Derb Serrajine)<br />

Thami has excellent<br />

fare: grilled<br />

vegetables, chicken<br />

tagine, couscous and<br />

brochettes. Try the<br />

kefta tagine in tomato<br />

sauce, topped with<br />

an egg. Grab a table<br />

under the mulberry<br />

tree and watch the<br />

world go by from<br />

the busiest little<br />

pavement café in<br />

the medina.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ruined Garden Café<br />

(Derb Sidi Ahmed<br />

Chaoui, Douh, tel:<br />

06 4919 1410) Sit<br />

in the shade of an<br />

old lemon tree by a<br />

broken column in this<br />

delightful garden that<br />

was once a beautiful<br />

riad. At lunchtime,<br />

you can sample<br />

Moroccan delights<br />

such as the fresh<br />

sardines fried in a<br />

fi ne couscous batter<br />

with homemade<br />

preserved lemon aioli.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY La<br />

Villa (117 Boulevard<br />

Bahnini, Hay Riad,<br />

tel: 0535 60 44 66)<br />

La Villa has the most<br />

mouthwateringly<br />

tempting patisserie<br />

and ice creams in Fez.<br />

Sit outside on the<br />

balcony and peruse<br />

the menu – making<br />

a choice is so diffi cult,<br />

you’ll have to come<br />

back another time.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Majestic (Royal<br />

Tennis Club, tel:<br />

0535 729 999) This<br />

modern restaurant<br />

has an excellent bar<br />

and terrace. Check<br />

out the music nights<br />

with live bands.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Escape the<br />

crowds and head<br />

to the Andalous<br />

quarter. There’s a<br />

magnifi cent mosque,<br />

two madrasah, and no<br />

tourists in sight.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The old Jewish<br />

quarter is called Fez<br />

el-Jdid – “new Fez”<br />

– even though it was<br />

built over 700 years<br />

ago. Well, it is new<br />

in comparison with<br />

the medina, which<br />

is more than<br />

1,200 years old.<br />

Helen Ranger<br />

QPM is a property management and holiday rentals s<br />

company based in Lagos, in the Western Algarve.<br />

We are a small team of trustworthy and dedicated staff and<br />

will do everything within our reach to ensure your stay in the<br />

Algarve is a memorable one, and, if you are a property owner,<br />

that your house is well looked after at all times of the year.


130 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Fuerteventura<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel, Bristol,<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi to Corralejo<br />

costs €60, Caleta de<br />

Fuste: €15 and Costa<br />

Calma: €90.<br />

Route 3 goes to<br />

Caleta de Fuste.<br />

Tickets: €1.40. Route 6<br />

buses to Corralejo run<br />

every hour. Tickets: €4.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Factoria (9 Avenida<br />

Marítimo, Corralejo,<br />

tel: 928 535 726) This<br />

seafront café serves<br />

a wide variety of<br />

traditional Canarian<br />

dishes, as well as<br />

fresh pasta and some<br />

delicious pizza.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Pura<br />

Vida (Grandes Playa,<br />

Corralejo, tel: 672 524<br />

593) This beach-front<br />

bar overlooks Lobos.<br />

A wonderful, peaceful<br />

setting for that early<br />

evening aperitif.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Bugaloo (2 Calle<br />

Hernan Cortez,<br />

Corralejo, tel: 630 766<br />

972) A cosy bar with<br />

a fantastic welcome<br />

and a terrace with a<br />

perfect view of the<br />

sea. The owner, Frans,<br />

is Dutch, but his bar<br />

has an international<br />

feel and is popular<br />

with holidaymakers.<br />

Great atmosphere as<br />

local games into the<br />

early hours.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Canaries Day is<br />

30 May. Most towns<br />

will have cultural<br />

activities,dancing,<br />

music and local food<br />

and drink. Look for<br />

posters in your resort<br />

with details.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Tindaya’s mountain<br />

is sacred to the<br />

indigenous Guanches.<br />

There are neolithic<br />

settlements, shrines<br />

and podomorphs<br />

(carvings of feet,<br />

unique to the island).<br />

Penny Melville<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

La Scarpetta (Calle<br />

Juan de Austria, tel:<br />

928 535 887) In this<br />

exceptional Italian<br />

restaurant ask Mario<br />

about his specials.<br />

The ingredients are<br />

locally sourced and<br />

Mario knows his stuff .<br />

Geneva<br />

Switzerland<br />

DIALLING CODE +41<br />

CURRENCY CHF<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Asturias,<br />

Athens, Barcelona,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />

Bilbao, Birmingham,<br />

Bordeaux,<br />

Bournemouth, Brindisi,<br />

Bristol, Brussels,<br />

Budapest, Cagliari,<br />

Catania, Copenhagen,<br />

Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />

Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />

(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro,<br />

Glasgow, Hurghada,<br />

Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

Leeds-Bradford,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

STN), Madrid,Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Manchester,<br />

Marrakech, Mykonos,<br />

Nantes, Naples,<br />

Newcastle, Nice,<br />

Olbia, Paris (ORY),<br />

Porto, Pristina,<br />

Rome, Santiago de<br />

Compostela, Sharm<br />

El Sheikh, Split,<br />

Stockholm, Tel Aviv,<br />

Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about CHF50.<br />

Trains go to<br />

Cornavin station.<br />

Pick up a free ticket<br />

from the machine in<br />

baggage reclaim, which<br />

is valid for an hour.<br />

A Swiss Transfer<br />

ticket off ers<br />

open returns on buses,<br />

trains and boats across<br />

the city. Buy onboard,<br />

tickets: £95.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Key and<br />

Eagle (7 Rue Grenus,<br />

tel: 022 731 7130) This<br />

modern take on the<br />

traditional pub off ers<br />

beer on tap at your<br />

very own table and<br />

a good selection of<br />

wines by the glass. The<br />

food includes tasty<br />

pizzas and focaccias<br />

fresh from the oven.<br />

UP TO €30 Mikado<br />

(9 Rue de l’Ancien Port,<br />

tel: 022 732 4774)<br />

Sushi galore, as well<br />

as fresh sashimi and<br />

delicious Japanese<br />

salads and hot dishes,<br />

make Mikado a<br />

popular lunch spot<br />

with Geneva locals. It’s<br />

also handy for a quick<br />

bite before hitting<br />

the bars of Paquis.<br />

UP TO €50 L’Opera<br />

Bouff e (5 Avenue de<br />

Frontenex, tel: 022<br />

736 6300) Opulently<br />

decorated in French<br />

theatrical style with<br />

gold cherubs on the<br />

walls, this restaurant<br />

is quite a discovery.<br />

Tender steaks are<br />

served alongside<br />

dauphinoise potatoes<br />

and some truffl escented<br />

specialities.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Coupole (15 Rue<br />

Pierre Fatio, tel: 022<br />

787 5010) A longestablished<br />

landmark<br />

in Geneva’s centre,<br />

La Coupole is an<br />

old-fashioned delight.<br />

Their fi lets de perche<br />

with lemony sauce are<br />

almost unrivalled, while<br />

the skinny chips are<br />

to die for. Try the sinful<br />

desserts, which are well<br />

worth the indulgence<br />

and a fi ne fi nale to a<br />

typically Swiss meal.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Martel<br />

Tearoom (16 Rue de<br />

Cornavin, tel: 022 732<br />

4038) If you’ve got a<br />

train to catch or you<br />

need to rest weary<br />

feet after shopping,<br />

Martel is one of<br />

Geneva’s best known<br />

tea rooms. Choose<br />

from a selection of<br />

teas, coff ees and hot<br />

chocolate, perhaps<br />

accompanied by<br />

a slice of cake.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Le<br />

Kab de l’Usine (4<br />

Place des Volontaires,<br />

tel: 022 781 4057) As<br />

part of the cultural<br />

collective l’Usine, Le<br />

Kab is situated in a<br />

former factory. All<br />

manner of bands play<br />

here, but there’s one<br />

requirement: it has<br />

to be loud. Punk rock,<br />

funk and pure pop are<br />

often on the bill.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Krystal (11 Rue<br />

du Prince, tel: 022 311<br />

0015) Glitzy and glam<br />

rather than cuttingedge<br />

cool, Le Krystal<br />

is great for a fun night<br />

out, dancing to fl oorfi<br />

lling club tunes while<br />

sipping exotic cocktails<br />

and designer beers. Be<br />

prepared for a clientele<br />

that likes dressing up.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Franz Carl<br />

Weber is a treasure<br />

trove for children. This<br />

Swiss toy emporium<br />

has everything<br />

from Hello Kitty to<br />

Playmobil and Lego.<br />

Also has an adorable<br />

selection of life-like<br />

stuff ed animals (12<br />

Rue de la Croix d’Or).<br />

SEE Taking science<br />

boffi ns and beginners<br />

alike on a journey<br />

from the Big Bang, the<br />

Universe of Particles<br />

exhibition is an eyeopening<br />

experience<br />

set within the Globe<br />

of Science and<br />

Innovation at CERN<br />

(385 Route de Meyrin).<br />

GO Well worth a<br />

wander, the residential<br />

area Chêne-Bougeries<br />

on the edge of the<br />

Geneva countryside<br />

is characterised by<br />

long streets lined<br />

with grand houses,<br />

attractive shops and<br />

local eateries.<br />

ESCAPE Nendaz<br />

is usually known for<br />

snowy pistes, not<br />

battling cows, but<br />

from 5–6 May you can<br />

see the indigenous<br />

Hérens cows fi ghting<br />

to become the Queen<br />

cow, and respected<br />

throughout the year<br />

(Aproz, nendaz.ch).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Geneva has more than<br />

1,000 restaurants,<br />

which is more per<br />

capita than New York.<br />

Laura Mathew


COME AND LIVE IN SWITZERLAND<br />

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PROPERTY OF THE MONTH<br />

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balcony 24m 2 , quiet location.<br />

CHF 1,550,000<br />

Contact Alan Johnston:<br />

+41 79466 3000, alan@swissresidential.ch<br />

Select Properties Prime Locations<br />

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50th Anniversary<br />

GENEVA ENGLISH SCHOOL<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Co-education age 4-11.<br />

<br />

www.geneva-english-school.ch<br />

e-mail: admin@geschool.ch tel: 0041 (0)22 755 18 55<br />

ENJOY SWISS TRAILS<br />

AT YOUR OWN PACE,<br />

SPEED AND BUDGET!<br />

More than 700 accommodations, 6 standards<br />

from camping to top class hotels<br />

Extensive bike rental offers: hybrid bikes,<br />

racing bikes,<br />

mountain bikes,<br />

children sizes,<br />

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NEW: rent a top<br />

e-bike from<br />

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All bike rentals<br />

also one way<br />

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T +41 (0)43 422 60 22<br />

WWW.SWISSTRAILS.CH


132 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Gibraltar<br />

UK Territory<br />

DIALLING CODE +350<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £5.<br />

Routes 3, 9 and<br />

10 run every 10<br />

minutes. Tickets: £1.<br />

Visit the<br />

Europcar desk<br />

for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le Petit<br />

Cafe (Ocean Village,<br />

tel: 200 72 121) Enjoys<br />

a superb waterfront<br />

position at Ocean<br />

Village with a suitably<br />

informal atmosphere<br />

and a good choice of<br />

meals ranging from<br />

paella to coq au vin<br />

and from sandwiches<br />

and snacks.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Gauchos (Casemates,<br />

tel: 200 59700) With<br />

its wood-clad, cosy<br />

interior, this makes a<br />

great escape from the<br />

sun. Arrive with a big<br />

appetite as portions<br />

are huge. Aside from<br />

steaks, expect exotic<br />

delights such as<br />

salmon with grilled<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

Making<br />

Waves<br />

All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />

in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />

offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />

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banana, juicy mango<br />

and delicious avocado.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Celebrity<br />

Wine Bar (Ocean<br />

Village, tel: 200 40972)<br />

The outside terrace<br />

at this sophisticated<br />

restaurant and wine<br />

bar is a popular<br />

place to start the<br />

evening with a long,<br />

cool cocktail before<br />

shimmying on to the<br />

nearby late-night bars.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Savannah Lounge<br />

(27 Leisure Island,<br />

Ocean Village, tel: 200<br />

66666) Cool music,<br />

moody lighting and<br />

killer cocktails make<br />

this a suitable party<br />

space, especially on<br />

Friday and Saturday<br />

nights when the<br />

clubbing vibe carries<br />

on until early morning.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO There is<br />

something very<br />

evocative about<br />

Trafalgar Cemetery,<br />

which was used for<br />

burials between<br />

1798 and 1814, and<br />

subsequently fell into<br />

disuse. Buried here are<br />

victims of sea battles<br />

of the Napoleonic<br />

Wars – including the<br />

Battle of Trafalgar.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Strait is a<br />

wonderful place for<br />

ornithological study,<br />

with year-round<br />

migration of literally<br />

hundreds of species<br />

of birds and maximum<br />

activity in the spring.<br />

Josephine Quintero<br />

Glasgow<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Belfast,<br />

Berlin, Bristol, Faro,<br />

Geneva, Ibiza, Jersey,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

STN), Málaga,<br />

Majorca, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £20.<br />

Arriva Glasgow<br />

Flyer Bus<br />

leaves every<br />

10 minutes. Tickets:<br />

£4.50 single; £6.50<br />

open return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 The<br />

Chippy Doon the<br />

Lane (84 Buchanan<br />

Street, tel: 0141 225<br />

5617) Casual dining at<br />

its very best, serving up<br />

monkfi sh and lobster,<br />

alongside traditional<br />

cod and haddock. Dine<br />

out on the fi nest wine<br />

and champagne at very<br />

reasonable prices.<br />

UP TO €30 Black<br />

Sheep Bistro (10<br />

Clarendon Street, tel:<br />

0141 333 1435) Newly<br />

opened bistro that has<br />

really made a very big<br />

impact on food lovers.<br />

It’s family run and a<br />

hidden gem. The food<br />

is simply delicious, with<br />

lots of home cooking on<br />

the menu, and it boasts<br />

friendly, attentive staff .<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Citation Taverne<br />

(40 Wilson Street, tel:<br />

0141 559 6799) This<br />

excellent restaurant<br />

in the former Sheriff<br />

Court building<br />

has retained its<br />

traditional features<br />

– a grandiose façade<br />

with Corinthian-style<br />

pillars. You’ll fi nd<br />

meals to suit all<br />

pockets on the varied<br />

and extensive menus.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Gandolfi Fish (84–86<br />

Albion Street, tel: 0141<br />

552 9475) Expect<br />

wonderful fresh<br />

Scottish mackerel,<br />

lobster and crab,<br />

with dishes such as<br />

seafood bisque, Cullen<br />

skink, fi sh cakes and<br />

smoked salmon. Much<br />

of the fresh produce is<br />

sourced from Barra.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar<br />

Petite (250 Bath<br />

Street, tel: 0141 332<br />

2732) Bar Petite is<br />

a fresh and funky<br />

addition to the bustling<br />

bar scene. Expect an<br />

intimate atmosphere<br />

for drinks, tasty snacks<br />

and great music, with<br />

an emphasis on funk.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Blackfriars (36 Bell<br />

Street, tel: 0141 552<br />

5924) One of the<br />

more traditional pubs,<br />

Blackfriars boasts<br />

a huge range of world<br />

beers. It is fi rmly<br />

established as a quality<br />

Real Ale and Craft Beer<br />

pub with live music<br />

most nights, from soul<br />

and country to rock<br />

and unsigned bands.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Kushion (158–166<br />

Bath Street, tel: 0845<br />

166 6031) Kushion<br />

is a trendy bar and<br />

nightclub with stylish<br />

and modern interior.<br />

Atmosphere is upbeat<br />

and friendly as topnotch<br />

DJs keep things<br />

moving along apace.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Style Mile<br />

Glasgow is one<br />

square mile housing<br />

a concentration of<br />

inspirational shopping,<br />

cafés, restaurants<br />

and late-night haunts.<br />

Argyle Street, St Enoch<br />

Centre, Merchant<br />

City, Ingram Street,<br />

Buchanan Street, Royal<br />

Exchange Square.<br />

Late-night shopping<br />

Thursday nights.<br />

GRAND<br />

CENTRAL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

A £20 million<br />

refurbishment has<br />

done wonders for<br />

this luxury hotel –<br />

which dates back<br />

to 1883. From<br />

€96, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />

and cannot take it with you, visit<br />

traveller.‰.com<br />

.com<br />

SEE Scottish Opera’s<br />

Tosca is held at the<br />

Theatre Royal on<br />

dates from 4–12<br />

May. With plenty of<br />

periphery shows to<br />

accompany the main<br />

event, which sees<br />

Spanish tenor José<br />

Ferrero, making his<br />

Scottish Opera debut<br />

(282 Hope Street).<br />

GO Visit Scotland’s<br />

National Stadium<br />

– The Hampden<br />

Experience reveals<br />

the sights, sounds<br />

and stories of the<br />

world’s favourite<br />

game. Around 2,500<br />

exhibits on display in<br />

14 galleries. Experience<br />

the Stadium Tour<br />

and the Hall of Fame<br />

(tel: 0141 616 6139,<br />

scottishfootball<br />

museum.org.uk).<br />

ESCAPE Stirling<br />

is the gateway to<br />

the Highlands and<br />

also home to Stirling<br />

Castle, the William<br />

Wallace monument,<br />

the Old Town Jail and<br />

the Bannockburn<br />

Heritage Centre, where<br />

you can experience<br />

life behind bards<br />

in a 19th-century<br />

prison and relive<br />

Scotland’s victory at<br />

Bannockburn. It’s all<br />

just a short train ride<br />

from Glasgow Queen<br />

Street Station.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Boys’ Brigade<br />

movement was<br />

started in Glasgow in<br />

1883 by Sir William<br />

Alexander Smith. Now<br />

it has half a million<br />

members worldwide.<br />

Evelyn McKechnie


134 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Gran Canaria<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

Route 60 runs<br />

from 6.50am–<br />

11.05pm. Tickets:<br />

€2.50 (Parque Santa<br />

Catalina); €1.95<br />

(Parque San Telmo).<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Cafe Ma Bakers<br />

(Passerella Centre,<br />

Top Floor, Puerto<br />

Escala, Puerto Rico,<br />

tel: 65 487 7423)<br />

Off ering great<br />

inexpensive food, Cafe<br />

Ma Bakers specialises<br />

in pies, pasties and<br />

cakes. Enjoy lunch<br />

overlooking the<br />

harbour or order a<br />

takeaway lunch box<br />

for a day trip.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Grill<br />

Costa Mar (8 Calle<br />

Juan Rodriguez, tel:<br />

928 562 017) Enjoy<br />

fabulous views of<br />

the port as you dine<br />

on delicious, fresh<br />

fi sh in this small,<br />

family-run business.<br />

Try the amazing mixed<br />

grill of seafood and<br />

fi sh topped with a<br />

delicious garlic sauce.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Relax<br />

Rock Pub (194 Centro<br />

Comercial Kasbah)<br />

A small, friendly bar<br />

that specialises in<br />

rock, hard rock, heavy<br />

metal, punk, power<br />

metal, nu metal and<br />

gothic metal.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Bulldog (Avenida<br />

Tirajana) A fun night<br />

awaits all the family<br />

in this lively karaoke<br />

bar, which features<br />

mad staff and a great<br />

atmosphere.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The pretty village<br />

of Puerto de Mogan<br />

consists of a profusion<br />

of colourful small<br />

houses bursting with<br />

bougainvillea, palm<br />

trees, bird-of-paradise<br />

fl owers, hibiscus<br />

and other glorious<br />

plants. Built around<br />

a marina and fi shing<br />

harbour, lined with<br />

bars, restaurants<br />

and shops, Mogan<br />

has been named<br />

the “Venice of<br />

the Canaries”.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Hotel Santa<br />

Catalina has played<br />

host to many<br />

legendary guests<br />

including Agatha<br />

Christie and<br />

Buzz Aldrin.<br />

Jan Cooney/<br />

elsunnews.com<br />

Hamburg<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Manchester, London<br />

(LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

S1 S-Bahn trains<br />

run from 4.29am<br />

until midnight, every<br />

10 minutes.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Drei Tageszeiten<br />

(29 Mülenkamp)<br />

A mainstay of the<br />

upscale Mülenkamp<br />

neighbourhood, this<br />

ARCADIA<br />

BELMONDO<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Close to the main<br />

station, this is an<br />

excellent, aff ordable<br />

crashpad for<br />

comfort and<br />

convenience. From<br />

€55 a night. Book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

stylish bistro features<br />

a seasonally fresh,<br />

international menu.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Alt-Hamburger<br />

Aalspeicher (43<br />

Deichstrasse, tel: 040<br />

362 990) An institution<br />

housed in a 16thcentury<br />

building on the<br />

city’s oldest surviving<br />

canal-side byway, this<br />

family-run restaurant<br />

boasts traditional local<br />

dishes without equal.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

SternChance (7<br />

Schröderstiftstr, tel:<br />

040 4301168) This<br />

charming beer garden<br />

is fl anked by lily ponds<br />

and a large indoor hall<br />

anchored by a roaring<br />

fi replace where the<br />

literati peruse papers.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Sommerterrassen<br />

(44 Südring, tel:<br />

040 270 6274) Few<br />

places are as relaxing<br />

or atmospheric –<br />

especially on warm<br />

summer nights – as<br />

this beer garden, which<br />

overlooks the tidal<br />

basin on the south side<br />

of Stadtpark.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The Harbour<br />

Festival celebrates<br />

marine life with a<br />

three-day land-and-sea<br />

extravaganza featuring<br />

300 vessels ranging<br />

from steam ships to<br />

yachts on 11–13 May.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Hamburg is well known<br />

as being Germany’s<br />

musical capital.<br />

Farhad Heydari<br />

Hurghada<br />

Egypt<br />

DIALLING CODE +20<br />

CURRENCY EGP<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Sakalla is<br />

about EGP20, El Dahar<br />

EGP25, and further<br />

afi eld EGP35–EGP50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

GAD (Sheraton Rd,<br />

opp Regina Style Hotel<br />

and Village Road)<br />

Egypt’s fast-growing<br />

chain of restaurants<br />

off ers a wide range<br />

of local fl avours from<br />

as little as 1.50EGP<br />

for a falafel sandwich.<br />

Menus in English and<br />

very helpful staff . Eat<br />

in or takeaway.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Tuscany Restaurant<br />

(Hurghada Marriott<br />

Beach Resort, El<br />

Corniche Road, tel:<br />

065 344 6950) A<br />

fi ne-dining experience<br />

overlooking the<br />

Marriott gardens and<br />

marina. The carpaccio<br />

beef, duck in orange<br />

sauce and surf ‘n’<br />

turf are house<br />

specials, but if the<br />

lamb chops are on the<br />

menu, go for it! Book<br />

ahead. Indoor and<br />

terrace seating<br />

with good views.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Shade<br />

Bar & Grill (Hurghada<br />

International Marina<br />

Boulevard) Perfect<br />

spot to start your<br />

evening – relax on a<br />

beanbag with views<br />

over the Marina, sip<br />

a cold beer and plan<br />

the night – stay on for<br />

dinner and music later.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Star Bar (Hurghada<br />

International Marina<br />

Boulevard, tel: ) Every<br />

Thursday evening, see<br />

live music starting at<br />

9.30pm and going on<br />

late into the night –<br />

great food, full bar and<br />

a lively atmosphere.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Every year,<br />

Hurghada’s skies are<br />

fi lled with storks on<br />

their migration. Many<br />

hundreds at a time can<br />

be seen circling in the<br />

thermals and coming<br />

to rest on outcrops<br />

and desert fl ats.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Construction of<br />

Hurghada’s new<br />

airport terminal is<br />

coming on in leaps<br />

and bounds. With a<br />

yearly capacity of 7.5<br />

million, it will boast 11<br />

aircraft bridges plus<br />

nine normal gates.<br />

Due for completion<br />

early 2013.<br />

Denise Fletcher<br />

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136 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Ibiza<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel, Berlin,<br />

Belfast, Bilbao, Bristol,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow,<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW, LTN, SEN,<br />

STN), Lyon. Madrid,<br />

Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />

Newcastle, Paros<br />

(CDG), Rome, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €15<br />

to Ibiza Town and €25<br />

San Antonio.<br />

Buses leave from<br />

7am–11.50pm.<br />

Tickets: €1.25.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Can<br />

Tixedo (Carretera<br />

Santa Ines, Sant<br />

Antoni de Portmany,<br />

tel: 971 345 248) Head<br />

to this charming art<br />

café in real Ibiza for a<br />

breakfast or lunch of<br />

homemade tapas and<br />

dinner when you can<br />

sample the delights of<br />

their wine cellar.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Villa<br />

Mercedes (Paseo<br />

del Mar, San Antonio,<br />

tel: 971 348 543) This<br />

transformed traditional<br />

Ibicencan house off ers<br />

a spectacular view,<br />

romantic ambience<br />

and impeccable<br />

Mediterranean cooking<br />

with a twist.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY KM5<br />

(Road to Sant Josep,<br />

5km, tel: 971 396 349)<br />

Roam around the fi ve<br />

rooms, which each<br />

off er a completely<br />

diff erent vibe with<br />

music ranging from<br />

house to hip hop.<br />

The main room hosts<br />

some of the world’s<br />

best DJs and parties.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Eden (Calle Salvador<br />

de Espritu, San<br />

Antonio) One of the<br />

hottest clubs in San<br />

An. The highly popular<br />

Judgment Sundays<br />

event is a particular<br />

draw in the summer<br />

season – be prepared<br />

to dance all night.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Head to the<br />

Ushuaia Beach Hotel<br />

where, on 26 May,<br />

Luciano and friends will<br />

kick start the summer<br />

season around their<br />

impressive pool area.<br />

Stick around because<br />

the very next day<br />

will see Fatboy Slim<br />

entertain the crowds.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

At the southernmost<br />

tip of the island lie the<br />

Las Salinas salt fl ats,<br />

which sparkle during<br />

the hotter period<br />

and are beautiful to<br />

photograph at sunset.<br />

Katy Gillett<br />

Inverness<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, London<br />

(LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £20.<br />

Jet buses<br />

run every 30<br />

minutes to the city<br />

centre. Tickets: £3.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Café<br />

Artysans (7 Strothers<br />

Lane, tel: 01463 729<br />

793) Artysans might<br />

be a new venture, but<br />

it has already proven<br />

that it is no tyro after<br />

winning the Highlands<br />

and Islands Food and<br />

Drink award 2011.<br />

Its original take on a<br />

traditional Scottish<br />

favourite – Cullen<br />

Skink risotto – has<br />

won particular praise.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Clachnaharry Inn<br />

(17–19 High Street,<br />

Clachnaharry, tel:<br />

01463 239 806) The<br />

Clachnaharry Inn<br />

serves real ales and<br />

traditional dishes in<br />

homely surroundings.<br />

This traditional little<br />

pub off ers a good time<br />

without any nonsense.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Hootanannys (67<br />

Church Street, tel:<br />

01463 233651) Forget<br />

a quiet nightcap,<br />

Hootanannys will<br />

have you dancing<br />

right through to the<br />

wee hours. With a mix<br />

of genres from rock,<br />

indie, ceilidh, folk and<br />

many more.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Loch Ness is<br />

truly vast: at 37km<br />

long, it contains more<br />

freshwater than all the<br />

lakes in England and<br />

Wales combined. Take<br />

an informative cruise<br />

(Tomnahurich Bridge,<br />

tel: 01463 233 999).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Inverness was a winner<br />

of the “Most Beautiful<br />

Large Town” award of<br />

Britain in Bloom.<br />

Beverley Tricker<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

The Kitchen (15<br />

Huntly Street, tel:<br />

01463 259 119)<br />

The Kitchen uses<br />

the fi nest locally<br />

sourced ingredients<br />

to create an exciting<br />

contemporary<br />

Scottish menu.<br />

Isle of Man<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £18.<br />

Buses run<br />

every half an<br />

hour. Adult single to<br />

Douglas £2.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Glen<br />

Helen Inn (Glen<br />

Helen, St John’s,<br />

tel: 01624 801 294)<br />

The wide-ranging<br />

traditional menu at<br />

this countryside inn,<br />

set in a picturesque<br />

glen, leaves diners<br />

spoilt for choice.<br />

Solve the dilemma<br />

by ordering from the<br />

daily specials board.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Tanroagan (9<br />

Ridgeway Street,<br />

Douglas, tel: 01624<br />

612 355) BBC cooking<br />

duo The Hairy Bikers<br />

have sampled the<br />

delicious seafood<br />

at this family-run<br />

restaurant. Order off<br />

the specials board,<br />

which could include<br />

freshly caught local<br />

lobster with lemon<br />

butter sautéed<br />

Manx queenies<br />

(queen scallops).<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

The Rover’s Return<br />

(11 Church Street)<br />

Arriving in the Isle of<br />

Man feels as though<br />

you are stepping<br />

back in time a little,<br />

so it would only be<br />

appropriate to head<br />

for a pint of ale. This<br />

pub serves the local<br />

Bushy’s brew.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Bushy’s beer tent<br />

(Loch Promenade,<br />

tel: 01624 611 101)<br />

The Manx brewery’s<br />

temporary tent on<br />

Douglas promenade<br />

caters for thousands<br />

of thirsty bikers and<br />

locals from noon til<br />

midnight during the<br />

TT races. There is live<br />

music every night.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE More than a<br />

hundred of years<br />

of history combine<br />

with modern<br />

motorbikes travelling<br />

at breakneck speeds<br />

to create the special<br />

atmosphere of the<br />

island’s world-famous<br />

annual TT Races, held<br />

over the 60 kilometre<br />

Mountain Course<br />

(26 May–8 June,<br />

iomtt.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

One of the island’s<br />

traditional recipes<br />

is Manx bonnag<br />

– a sweet bread.<br />

Kate Youde


DOLMEN<br />

Dolmen Resort Hotels is a new hotel group<br />

in Salento combining architectural heritage,<br />

culture and cuisine.<br />

2 of the current active facilities include Perla<br />

Hotel, Casalabate Lecce, located in the<br />

Mediterranean coast of Salento and Hotel<br />

A Due Passi dal Pizzo Gallipoli, located on<br />

the coastal belt of the Ionian Sea; both<br />

high-impact holidays.<br />

Contact us:<br />

E-mail: booking@dolmenresorthotels.it<br />

Tel: +39.0832.389140 | www.dolmenresorthotels.it


138 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Istanbul<br />

Turkey<br />

DIALLING CODE +90<br />

CURRENCY Lira (TRY)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

London (LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs TRY50.<br />

E3 buses run to<br />

4 Levent, from<br />

there take the metro.<br />

Tickets: TRY4.50.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

EXCLUSIVE Miss<br />

Pizza (86 Mesrutiyet<br />

Caddesi, Sishane,<br />

Beyoglu, tel: 0212<br />

251 3234) A-la-mode<br />

hang-out, perfect for<br />

people watching. The<br />

pizza isn’t bad either –<br />

especailly the artichoke<br />

topping. Reservations<br />

essential at weekends.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Good<br />

Mood Pera (107<br />

Mesrutiyet Caddesi,<br />

Sishane, Beyoglu,<br />

tel: 0212 245<br />

0050) Swish new<br />

bar-restaurant in a<br />

recently renovated<br />

historical apartment<br />

building. Open until<br />

4am, reservations<br />

essential at weekends.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Jolly Joker Balans<br />

(22 Balo Sokak,<br />

Beyoglu, tel: 0212 249<br />

0749) Regular live<br />

music, DJ sets and<br />

party nights pack out<br />

this popular venue.<br />

Order a real ale from<br />

the adjoining brew<br />

pub and listen to<br />

the best of Turkish<br />

rock and pop.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE From 10 May<br />

until 5 June the 18th<br />

Istanbul International<br />

Theatre Festival<br />

returns to town,<br />

featuring theatre and<br />

dance performances<br />

from around the world<br />

(tiyatro.iksv.org).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The two giant<br />

rocks that stand on<br />

either side of the<br />

northern mouth of<br />

the Bosphorus are<br />

reckoned to be the<br />

Symplegades, or<br />

“clashing rocks”, in<br />

the story of Jason and<br />

the Argonauts.<br />

David O’Byrne<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Zindan (13 Olivia<br />

Han Gecidi, Istiklal<br />

Caddesi, Beyoglu,<br />

tel: 0212 252 7340)<br />

This antique-fi lled<br />

cellar restaurant has<br />

ambience in spades.<br />

Not to mention a<br />

great-value €5 lunch.<br />

Izmir<br />

Turkey<br />

DIALLING CODE +90<br />

CURRENCY Lira (TRY)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs 40TRY<br />

The Havas bus<br />

goes to the city<br />

centre every half hour.<br />

Tickets: 10TRY single<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Tyna<br />

(Ali Çetinkaya Bulvarı<br />

No:5, Alsancak, tel:<br />

0232 422 51 51) This<br />

pizzeria and café on<br />

a small pedestrian<br />

square is popular<br />

both for its food and<br />

its inexpensive beer.<br />

You could do worse<br />

than while away an<br />

afternoon peoplewatching<br />

here.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Asansor (Dario<br />

Moreno Sokagi, tel:<br />

0232 2612662)<br />

Set at the top of a<br />

20th-century elevator<br />

formerly used to<br />

move cargo and now a<br />

favourite spot among<br />

locals, the view from<br />

here is stunning.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Sir<br />

Winston Tea House<br />

(Dr Mustafa Bey<br />

Enver Caddesi No 20,<br />

tel: 0232 421 8861)<br />

Located on a long<br />

street dotted with<br />

cafés, Sir Winston<br />

is the most popular,<br />

serving up speciality<br />

teas, coff ees and beer<br />

alongside delicious<br />

fresh sandwiches.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Sardunya’s (1453<br />

Sok, No:12 Gazi<br />

Kadinlar, Sokagi<br />

Alsansak, tel: 0232<br />

465 3276) This<br />

popular bar is a<br />

meet-up spot for<br />

couchsurfers and<br />

attracts a young,<br />

hip crowd. Make<br />

reservations for the<br />

must-see Mondaynight<br />

live jazz.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Izmir’s Wildlife<br />

Park is known<br />

throughout the<br />

country, both for<br />

its animals such as<br />

the beautiful Asian<br />

elephant and the fastas-lightening<br />

puma,<br />

and also for holding<br />

several rare species<br />

of birds (Izmir<br />

Dogal Yasam Parki,<br />

tel: 0232 327 3016,<br />

izmir.bel.tr).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Izmir region is<br />

home to three of<br />

the Seven Churches<br />

of the Apocalypse.<br />

One each is located<br />

in Ephesus and<br />

Pergamon, and the<br />

third was in Izmir<br />

itself, at what is<br />

now the site of the<br />

ancient agora.<br />

Barbara Isenberg<br />

Sitting S comfortably?<br />

Jersey<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Glasgow,<br />

Liverpool,<br />

London (SEN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £16.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Wheatlands<br />

Gastropub (Le Mont<br />

des Grupieaux, St<br />

Peter, tel: 01534 888<br />

877) Adjacent to a golf<br />

course, the Wheatlands<br />

Gastropub off ers goodvalue<br />

snacks and meals.<br />

Try the Jersey crab<br />

bisque (£3.95), followed<br />

by pan-fried skate wing<br />

with herb butter and<br />

new potatoes (£8.95).<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Cheffi ns Restaurant<br />

(La Neuve Route, St<br />

Aubin, tel: 01534 747<br />

118) Surrounded by<br />

popular restaurants,<br />

Cheffi ns is one of<br />

the most popular in<br />

St Aubin. Recently<br />

refurbished, the<br />

restaurant has an<br />

international menu,<br />

specialising in seafood.<br />

advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />

Other standouts<br />

include Portuguese<br />

bacalhau fi sh cakes<br />

and lamb-shank<br />

cassoulet with<br />

Toulouse sausage.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Rozel<br />

Bar and Restaurant<br />

(La Vallee de Rozel, St<br />

Martin, tel: 01534 863<br />

438) There are two<br />

bars, a restaurant and<br />

outside decking and<br />

a beer garden at this<br />

cosy pub at the bottom<br />

of Rozel Valley. Plenty<br />

of real ale for the beer<br />

enthusiasts, but also a<br />

place to sip cocktails<br />

on a spring evening.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Rojo’s (10 Bond Street,<br />

St Helier, tel: 01534<br />

729 904) Look out<br />

for Rojo’s Speakeasy<br />

nights on Thursdays<br />

when there are live<br />

performances at this<br />

cocktail bar-nightclub<br />

showcasing the best<br />

of jazz and swing.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Sark, which is an<br />

hour’s boat journey<br />

from St Helier, looks<br />

stunning at this time of<br />

the year and interesting<br />

at any time. There are<br />

no cars, but 600 people<br />

still lead comfortable<br />

lives on the tiny island.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Formula One racing<br />

champion Nigel<br />

Mansell, who lives in<br />

Jersey, is setting up<br />

an F1 museum on<br />

the island which will<br />

include several of his<br />

Grand Prix cars.<br />

Peter Body<br />

Imagine over<br />

5 million people looking<br />

at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />

Make ppart<br />

of your plan today<br />

150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/2011 15:01


There are still places<br />

where you can experience<br />

the pleasure and thrill<br />

of unpackaged discovery...<br />

Book any room for a minimum 4 nights’ stay and<br />

receive a spectacular discount of 30% off the official<br />

room rates (Quote ref. EJET30SUM12). Not valid in<br />

conjunction with any other offer or promotion.<br />

EMELISSE HOTEL<br />

Fiskardo, Kefalonia - Greece<br />

Tel.: +30 26740 41200, Fax: +30 26740 41026<br />

www.emelissehotel.com<br />

PERANTZADA... 1811<br />

Vathi, Ithaki - Greece<br />

Tel.: +30 26740 33496, Fax: +30 26740 33493<br />

www.perantzadahotel.com<br />

One of the hottest spots in<br />

<br />

Located right in the heart of Reykjavik, Café Paris is the<br />

place to be! Whether you meet friends or family for breakfast,<br />

brunch, dinner or cocktails, you will experience the true<br />

Icelandic atmosphere in which locals and tourists mingle.<br />

We also have live jazz on weekends. Th e nightlife<br />

in Reykjavik is colourful and so are our cocktails!<br />

10% discount<br />

off your bill<br />

101 Reykjavik, Iceland<br />

T. +354 551 1020<br />

E. cafeparis@cafeparis.is<br />

www.cafeparis.is<br />

You have not visited Rey kjavik until you have visited Café Paris!


140 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Kefalonia<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €10.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Akrogiali (Lixouri,<br />

tel: 26710 92613)<br />

One of the bestvalue<br />

restaurants<br />

in the Ionians, this<br />

friendly seafront<br />

establishment<br />

serves up an array of<br />

delicious oven-baked<br />

dishes, as well as<br />

grilled meat and fi sh.<br />

The superb local<br />

barrelled wine is<br />

great value too.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Lord<br />

Falcon (Fiskardo, tel:<br />

26740 41072) Tucked<br />

inside Fiskardo’s<br />

picturesque harbour,<br />

you’ll fi nd the Ionians’<br />

fi rst Thai restaurant.<br />

The carefully prepared<br />

and authentic cuisine<br />

ranges from stir fries<br />

to curries and tangy<br />

salads – it all makes<br />

for a refreshingly spicy<br />

change from the usual<br />

Greek classics.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cozy<br />

(Kato Katelios, tel:<br />

26710 81031) Snug<br />

little bar with a<br />

welcoming interior<br />

and some seating<br />

out by the edge of<br />

the quay. Good for<br />

a daytime coff ee or<br />

early evening tipple to<br />

some laidback rock or<br />

ethnic sounds.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Bass (P Valianou,<br />

Argostoli, tel: 26710<br />

25020) Argostoli’s<br />

hottest nightclub,<br />

with a spacious, airconditioned,<br />

hi-tech<br />

interior opposite<br />

the archeological<br />

museum, attracts an<br />

equal mix of locals<br />

and foreigners with its<br />

nightly menu of trance<br />

and dance hits.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE On the days<br />

around 21 May, there<br />

are various events<br />

and a procession in<br />

the capital Argostoli to<br />

celebrate the offi cial<br />

unifi cation of the<br />

Ionian Islands in 1864.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

It has been proven<br />

using coloured dye<br />

that seawater from<br />

the sinkholes known<br />

as Katavothres, just<br />

outside the capital<br />

Argostoli, fl ows<br />

underneath the island<br />

and surfaces on the<br />

other side in the<br />

Melissani caves<br />

over 30km away.<br />

Nick Edwards<br />

Kos<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €38.<br />

Up to six buses<br />

depart from the<br />

airport to Kos Town.<br />

Tickets: €3.20.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Ambavris (Ambavris<br />

Hamlet, tel: 22420<br />

25696) Warmer<br />

weather signals the<br />

opening of courtyard<br />

seating at this<br />

converted taverna,<br />

only open at night.<br />

The famous mezze<br />

relay <strong>may</strong> include<br />

pikthí (brawn), stuff ed<br />

courgette blossoms,<br />

spicy sausages or<br />

fava bean dip.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Law<br />

Court Café (Vassileos<br />

Georgiou Avenue)<br />

Within sight of<br />

Hippocrates’ plane<br />

tree, this café hidden<br />

under arches invites<br />

visitors with beer<br />

and properly brewed<br />

coff ee at modest<br />

prices for the location.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Mylos (Akti Zouroudi,<br />

Lamb) By day, this<br />

musical beach-café<br />

housed in a converted<br />

windmill hosts<br />

volleyball; after dark,<br />

the pace steadily<br />

ramps up with either<br />

live music or DJ-fuelled<br />

events until sunrise.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The galleried<br />

undercroft of Kos<br />

Town’s secondcentury<br />

odeon has<br />

been restored and<br />

illuminated as a minimuseum<br />

on Roman<br />

odeia with extensive<br />

displays and a video.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The middle of Kos is<br />

so low-lying that from<br />

Kálymnos island to<br />

the north, you can see<br />

the peak of Níssyros<br />

islet south of Kos.<br />

Marc Dubin<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

H2O (7 Vasileos<br />

Georgiou, tel: 22420<br />

472 000) After dark<br />

H20’s fusion menu<br />

features shrimp<br />

tempura, risotto and<br />

grilled mains. The<br />

waterside seating is<br />

much sought after.<br />

YO YOU WANT IT, , WE GO GOT IT!<br />

WHETHER LAST MINUTE OR PEAK SEASON, WE ALWAYS<br />

GUARANTEE AVAILABILITY WHEN YOU BOOK ONLINE.<br />

Krakow<br />

Poland<br />

DIALLING CODE +48<br />

CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Belfast (BFS),<br />

Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about PLN80.<br />

Trains leave every<br />

30 minutes for<br />

the main station from<br />

4.24am–00.15am.<br />

Tickets: PLN6.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Trzy<br />

Papryczki Pizzeria<br />

(17 Ulica Poselska,<br />

tel: 012 292 5532)<br />

Squirrelled away down<br />

a side-street, The<br />

Three Peppers aces<br />

many of its Italian rivals<br />

thanks to a pleasant<br />

summer garden.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ancora (3 Ulica<br />

Dominikanska,<br />

tel: 012 357 3355)<br />

Ancora off ers a rather<br />

diff erent experience<br />

to the former<br />

recommendation. The<br />

decor is minimalist,<br />

and the cooking is<br />

determinedly modern,<br />

off ering light twists<br />

on Polish classics.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Camelot (17 Ulica<br />

Tomasza, tel: 012 423<br />

0638) With May under<br />

way, there’ll be a fi ght<br />

to snap up an outdoor<br />

table at this most<br />

popular nook in central<br />

town. If you have to<br />

make do with indoors,<br />

the consolation prizes<br />

are many – delicious<br />

cakes and delightful,<br />

light decor.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Klub Piekny Pies (6A<br />

Ulica Slawkowska)<br />

“The Beautiful Dog” is<br />

a self-consciously hip<br />

hangout that has been<br />

the crucible for many<br />

a hangover. Eclectic<br />

music and lots of<br />

arty characters.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE May sees<br />

the 10th edition of<br />

one of Krakow’s<br />

hippest cultural<br />

events – the Month of<br />

Photography. Expect<br />

plenty of foreign<br />

guests, as well as<br />

shows at galleries and<br />

cafés across town<br />

(photomonth.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Krakow is one of<br />

Europe’s oldest<br />

university cities,<br />

and once a year, the<br />

students are given<br />

the keys of the city, as<br />

well as carte blanche<br />

to sport fancy dress<br />

and get merry. The<br />

so-called Juwenalia<br />

shenanigans kick off<br />

on 14 May and ended<br />

on the 20th.<br />

Nick Hodge/<br />

cracow-life.com<br />

Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers<br />

great car rental deals. For your discounted<br />

price book at<br />

easyJet.com or visit<br />

the Europcar desk.


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

La Coruña<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Madrid<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

On weekdays,<br />

there are buses<br />

every half hour with<br />

several stops before the<br />

centre. From 7.15am to<br />

9.45pm. Tickets : €1.40.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Mantelería (3<br />

Mantelería, tel:<br />

981 893 633) Old,<br />

classic tavern-cometrendy<br />

tapas bar.<br />

Nice atmosphere,<br />

interesting wine-list<br />

and delicious tapas.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Alborada (25 Paseo<br />

Maritimo Alcalde<br />

Francisco Vazquez, tel:<br />

981 929 201) Here,<br />

you’ll fi nd top-notch<br />

Galician food to be<br />

enjoyed right in front<br />

of the ocean. One of<br />

the fi nest restaurants<br />

in town.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY La<br />

Postrería (5 Plaza<br />

Santa Catalina, tel:<br />

981 916 067) You can<br />

do more here than<br />

just indulge in their<br />

desserts, as the name<br />

suggests. After dark<br />

enjoy La Postrería’s<br />

arty design and<br />

modern atmosphere<br />

while trying a cocktail.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

14! (13–15 San Vicente<br />

de Paul) In the heart of<br />

the Monte Alto district,<br />

this <strong>may</strong> look like any<br />

other bar, but listen<br />

carefully and you’ll<br />

hear why it stands out:<br />

the music selection is<br />

the fi nest around.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Get a magnifi cent<br />

view of the town<br />

embraced by the sea<br />

from the opposite<br />

side of the bay. Take<br />

the lift up to Monte de<br />

San Pedro and enjoy<br />

the view.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

From 16th–19th<br />

centuries La Coruña<br />

was the political<br />

capital of Galicia.<br />

Pablo Carballo<br />

EUROSTARS<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Pools of light from<br />

the bay and port<br />

fl ood the rooms and<br />

down in the Torremar<br />

retaurant the fi sh<br />

is the highlight.<br />

From €47, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Lamezia<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Milan (MXP),<br />

Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Routes 4 and 5<br />

go to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €0.77.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Bussola (Viale G.<br />

Berto, Ricadi, tel:<br />

0963 663 226) Near<br />

the scenic town of<br />

Capo Vaticano, this<br />

hotel-restaurant<br />

specialises in<br />

traditional Calabrese<br />

seafood cuisine.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ristorante della<br />

Posta (Villaggio<br />

Mancuso, Taverna,<br />

tel: 0961 922033)<br />

Located in the heart<br />

of Sila Piccola in the<br />

small Alpine village<br />

of Villaggio Mancuso,<br />

Ristorante della<br />

Posta is a part of a<br />

romantic mountain<br />

resort. Try the porcini<br />

mushrooms plucked<br />

fresh from the woods<br />

surrounding this<br />

idyllic restaurant.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Il Globo<br />

(Centro Commerciale<br />

Due Mari, Maida, tel:<br />

0968 751 305) This is<br />

an excellent place to<br />

grab a gelato, crêpe<br />

or frozen yogurt<br />

any time of year – a<br />

surprisingly diffi cult<br />

feat in southern Italy<br />

outside of summer.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

L’Orso Cattivo<br />

(Bivio Martelletto,<br />

Settingiano, tel: 0961<br />

998 149) Along with<br />

great food (including<br />

pizza), this happening<br />

spot off ers internet<br />

access and live music,<br />

from a range of Italian<br />

and Latin American<br />

bands.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Murat Castle,<br />

named for Napoleon<br />

Bonaparte’s brotherin-law,<br />

Joachim Murat,<br />

who ruled Naples and<br />

was later executed<br />

in prison, is now a<br />

museum dedicated<br />

to the ruler’s life<br />

and death. From the<br />

museum there are<br />

amazing views of Pizzo<br />

and the Tyrrhenian<br />

Sea (Pizzo, province<br />

of Vibo Valentia).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Gianni Versace was<br />

born in Bagnara<br />

Calabra (Reggio<br />

Calabria) in 1946 and<br />

got his start in fashion<br />

as an apprentice to his<br />

dress-making mother.<br />

Cherrye Moore/<br />

my-bellavita.com<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 141<br />

Lanzarote<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Madrid<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €12.<br />

Routes 22 and<br />

23, buses stop at<br />

Playa del Reducto and<br />

Arrecife’s bus station,<br />

from 7am–10.25pm.<br />

Tickets: €1.20.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Sakura<br />

(106 Calle José Antonio<br />

Primo de Rivera,<br />

Arrecife, tel: 928 597<br />

637) This popular<br />

Japanese restaurant<br />

in Arrecife off ers<br />

exceptional value with<br />

its €15 all-you-can-eat<br />

conveyor-belt buff et.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Bodega de Uga (Uga,<br />

tel: 928 830 147) Set in<br />

delightful surroundings<br />

of ornamental fi g<br />

trees, Indian laurels<br />

and potted plants,<br />

this eatery is a bit<br />

special. Instead of<br />

a menu, the waiter<br />

asks a few questions<br />

about your tastes<br />

and then proceeds to<br />

bring mouth-watering<br />

dishes to the table for<br />

everyone to share.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Vino<br />

Blanco (Marina<br />

Rubicon, tel: 928 518<br />

200) Wine, cocktails,<br />

tapas, yachts and an<br />

enormous selection of<br />

gins at this chilled-out<br />

bar at the water’s<br />

edge of the gorgeous<br />

Marina Rubicon.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Charlie’s Bar (Centro<br />

Atlántico, Puerto del<br />

Carmen) Charlie’s<br />

Bar enjoys an almost<br />

legendary status<br />

amongst Lanzarote’s<br />

night-time venues.<br />

Resident band, Rory<br />

and the Island, play<br />

every night from<br />

11.15pm until 3.30am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The gruelling<br />

Ironman triathlon<br />

takes place on 19 May.<br />

Competitors must<br />

complete a 3.8km<br />

swim, then a 180km<br />

bicycle race followed<br />

by a 42.2km run all<br />

under the hot Canarian<br />

sunshine. The race<br />

starts at Playa Grande<br />

in Puerto del Carmen.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The jellyfi sh that<br />

closed beaches over<br />

the winter are just the<br />

latest in a series of<br />

irregular plagues that<br />

strike the island from<br />

time to time. In 2004,<br />

millions of locusts<br />

arrived from Africa!<br />

DiscoverLanzarote.com


142 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

La Rochelle<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, London<br />

(LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

Buses leave<br />

every 15 minutes<br />

from 7am–7pm.<br />

Tickets: €1.30.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Le Koi (42 Rue<br />

Saint-Jean-du-Perot,<br />

tel: 05 4628 2596)<br />

Japanese food is à la<br />

mode this summer<br />

in this town, and this<br />

sushi-and-salad bar<br />

is one of the best.<br />

It also has a great<br />

selection of wines<br />

from all over the<br />

world plus cocktails.<br />

Saki and sushi: what<br />

a great sunny<br />

day combination.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Le 28<br />

(10 bis Quai Duperre,<br />

tel: 05 4629 6106)<br />

Eat oysters and enjoy<br />

the extensive wine list<br />

while gazing out over<br />

the port. The waiters<br />

will happily advise<br />

which to choose and<br />

the best wines to<br />

accompany them.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY La Java<br />

des Paluches (12<br />

Rue Saint Nicolas,<br />

tel: 05 4630 5420)<br />

Because it’s well<br />

off the tourist trail,<br />

you can hang out<br />

here reading their<br />

magazines for as<br />

long as you like at<br />

this fashionable,<br />

brightly coloured bar.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Saoufe (12 Rue<br />

de Port, tel: 05 4641<br />

4696) The name<br />

means “How you<br />

doing?” and the<br />

atmosphere is really<br />

that friendly at this<br />

Creole cocktail bar<br />

with live music and<br />

open jam night<br />

for musicians<br />

on Tuesdays.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The Festival<br />

International des<br />

Très Courts runs<br />

from 4–13 May and<br />

showcases ultrashort<br />

fi lms - only<br />

three minutes or<br />

less! The festival<br />

prides itself on<br />

discovering new<br />

talent long before<br />

Sundance (more<br />

info from the local<br />

tourist offi ce).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The city is connected<br />

to the Île de Ré by<br />

a 2.9km bridge – the<br />

longest in France<br />

– that was completed<br />

on 19 May, 1988.<br />

Samantha David<br />

Lille<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Nice, Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Prebook your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

The Navette<br />

bus to the city<br />

centre. Tickets: €7.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Basilic<br />

Café (24 bis Rue<br />

Esquermoise, tel:<br />

03 2031 2147) This<br />

chic café serves<br />

modern world cuisine<br />

in serious portions<br />

and is popular with<br />

young professionals<br />

during the week and<br />

students at weekends.<br />

The sunny terrace is<br />

perfect for late brunch<br />

on a Sunday morning.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Laiterie (138 Avenue<br />

de l’Hippodrome,<br />

tel: 03 2092 7973)<br />

Just outside Lille in<br />

the small village of<br />

Lambersart, La Laiterie<br />

is a Michelin-starred<br />

restaurant headed by<br />

the new young chef<br />

Steven Ramon. Don’t<br />

miss the crumble of<br />

foie gras with hazelnuts<br />

or the lobster served in<br />

a champagne sauce.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY La<br />

Capsule (25 Rue des<br />

Trois Mollettes, tel: 03<br />

2042 1475) This cosy<br />

bar in Vieux Lille has<br />

barely room for both<br />

clients and the huge<br />

range of beers served,<br />

most of which are<br />

brewed here or just<br />

over the Belgian border.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Café Oz (3 Place<br />

des Bettignies, tel:<br />

03 2055 1515) This<br />

buzzy bar has, as its<br />

name suggests, a good<br />

selection of antipodean<br />

beers, plus a selection<br />

of more local brews.<br />

Open until 3am with<br />

the latest sounds<br />

on tap.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The Festival<br />

Wazemmes<br />

l’Accordéon draws<br />

the best players from<br />

northern France. There<br />

are daily concerts<br />

in the Maison Folie<br />

Wazemmes, with<br />

musicians of all ages<br />

playing everything<br />

from traditional<br />

tunes to the very<br />

latest contemporary<br />

arrangements, with a<br />

a free grand ball as the<br />

joyous fi nale (70 Rue<br />

des Sarrazins, 15–27<br />

May, fl onfl ons.eu).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The fi rst successful<br />

vaccine against TB<br />

was discovered at the<br />

Pasteur Institute in Lille<br />

in July 1921 by Albert<br />

Calmette and Camille<br />

Guérin and became<br />

known as the BCG.<br />

Nick Haslam<br />

Lisbon<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Asturias, Barcelona,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />

Bristol, Copenhagen,<br />

Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />

Liverpool, London (LGW,<br />

LTN), Lyon, Madeira,<br />

Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />

Paris (CDG), Rome,<br />

Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €12.<br />

The Aerobus<br />

leaves every 20<br />

minutes. Tickets: €3.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 O<br />

Satélite (41 Largo<br />

da Graça, tel: 21<br />

886 2679) The best<br />

places to eat are<br />

often unpretentious<br />

neighbourhood<br />

restaurants such as<br />

this one. No prizes<br />

for decor, but friendly<br />

service and great fresh<br />

fi sh and crème brûlée<br />

more than make up.<br />

UP TO €30 Duck<br />

Tale (257 Rua da<br />

Escola Politécnica,<br />

tel: 96 710 4142) This<br />

tiny but tasteful holein-the-wall<br />

off ers a<br />

nice selection of daily<br />

oriental treats, always<br />

including something<br />

with duck. Friendly<br />

service, fresh food and<br />

a new take on the<br />

idea of fusion.<br />

UP TO €50 Tasca<br />

da Esquina (41C Rua<br />

Domingos Sequeira,<br />

tel: 21 099 3939) Now<br />

in its third year, this<br />

dining concept by<br />

renowned Portuguese<br />

chef Vitor Sobral works<br />

well; he off ers gourmet<br />

food at aff ordable<br />

prices in simple<br />

surroundings. You can<br />

choose from a variety<br />

of tasting menus or<br />

à la carte.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Casa da Comida<br />

(1 Travessa dos<br />

Amoreiras, Rato, tel:<br />

21 388 5376) Perhaps<br />

not for the health<br />

conscious, this is a<br />

great place for sheer<br />

indulgence. Treat<br />

yourself to roast<br />

TIVOLI ORIENTE<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Best for those doing<br />

business, this simple<br />

hotel is fi ve minutes<br />

from the airport in<br />

the business side<br />

of town. From<br />

€95, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.


144 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Lisbon<br />

Portugal<br />

kid, pheasant and<br />

seafood platters which<br />

will fi ll you up for days.<br />

Booking is essential<br />

for a table in the<br />

beautiful dining room<br />

or leafy courtyard on<br />

warmer evenings.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY A<br />

Brasileira (120 Rua<br />

Garrett, Chiado, tel: 21<br />

346 9541) Once the<br />

haunt of artists and<br />

intellectuals, this is<br />

the place to have your<br />

photo taken with the<br />

statue of modernist<br />

poet Fernando Pessoa<br />

as you sip your drink,<br />

listen to the buskers<br />

and watch life pass by.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Barthoven (41, Rua<br />

da Condessa, tel: 91<br />

260 7867) This is<br />

a new bar devoted<br />

to classical music.<br />

With live concerts on<br />

Fridays and Saturdays<br />

it promises to an<br />

unusual alternative<br />

to Lisbon’s already<br />

diverse nightlife. it<br />

serves a selection of<br />

cocktails and snacks<br />

and is open till 2am.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Clube Ferroviário (59<br />

Rua da Santa Apolónia,<br />

tel: 21 815 319617)<br />

An unexpected<br />

addition to Lisbon’s<br />

nightly off erings, this<br />

railwayman’s club,<br />

next to Santa Apolónia<br />

station, has live<br />

music and a terrifi c (if<br />

unusual) atmosphere.<br />

Open until 4am<br />

Thursday–Saturday.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Luzz Me is<br />

unique: a light shop<br />

specialising in all kinds<br />

of LED lights – not<br />

only lamps but a<br />

huge variety of other<br />

interesting things that<br />

can be lit up (68 Rua<br />

da Bica Duarte Belo).<br />

SEE At the São Carlos<br />

Opera House, Puccini’s<br />

La Rondine will be on<br />

stage from 17–25 May<br />

(tel: 21 325 3045); on<br />

the 26th, you can catch<br />

Smashing Pumpkins<br />

and Linkin Park at Rock<br />

in Rio Lisboa (rock<br />

inriolisboa.sapo.pt).<br />

GO The antique lifts,<br />

funiculars and trams<br />

are a delight. The<br />

stately neo-Gothic<br />

Santa Justa lift and the<br />

funiculars of Gloria,<br />

Lavra and Bica are all<br />

picturesque ways of<br />

saving your feet, while<br />

the 28 tram is the best<br />

way to get a feel of the<br />

city as it hums and<br />

rattles its way from<br />

Martim Moniz to the<br />

cemetery of Prazeres.<br />

ESCAPE A visit to<br />

Portugal’s third city,<br />

Setubal, is a great<br />

day trip an hour to<br />

the south. Besides<br />

the interest of the city<br />

itself, there are serious<br />

delights to be had in<br />

the adjoining Serra<br />

da Arrábida with its<br />

unspoilt Mediterranean<br />

forest and sandy coves.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Lisbon is fi lled with<br />

ghosts from its short<br />

but thrilling period as<br />

a centre of espionage<br />

during World War Two.<br />

Jonathan Weightman<br />

Liverpool<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Barcelona, Belfast<br />

(BFS), Berlin, Bodrum,<br />

Bordeaux, Brussels,<br />

Faro, Fuerteventura,<br />

Geneva, Gibraltar,<br />

Grenoble, Ibiza,<br />

Innsbruck, Isle of<br />

Man, Jersey, Krakow,<br />

Lanzarote, Lisbon,<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Malta,<br />

Menorca, Naples, Nice,<br />

Paris (CDG), Rhodes,<br />

Salzburg, Tallinn<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £15.<br />

The 500 departs<br />

every 30<br />

minutes for the city<br />

centre. Tickets: £2.80.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Kimos<br />

(38–44 Mount<br />

Pleasant, tel: 0151<br />

707 8288) Kimos<br />

hosts a cosmopolitan<br />

crowd attracted by the<br />

sumptuous decoration,<br />

feel-good atmosphere,<br />

and good quality,<br />

reasonably-priced<br />

food, including their<br />

famous breakfasts,<br />

from full English to<br />

traditional Arabic.<br />

UP TO €30 The<br />

Italian Club (85 Bold<br />

Street, tel: 0151 708<br />

5508) This goodlooking<br />

deli-restaurant<br />

set amid the bustle<br />

of Bold Street, backs<br />

up its standard range<br />

of panini and pizza<br />

with appetising daily<br />

specials like seafood<br />

stew and roast chicken<br />

with roast potatoes.<br />

UP TO €50 Blakes<br />

(Hard Days Night Hotel,<br />

North John Street, tel:<br />

0151 236 1964) Voted<br />

Liverpool’s best city<br />

centre restaurant by<br />

the respected Good<br />

Food Guide a couple of<br />

years back, the rather<br />

grand dining room is<br />

located in the Beatlesthemed<br />

hotel.<br />

EXCLUSIVE The<br />

Exchange (Hilton<br />

Hotel, 3 Thomas<br />

Steers Way, tel: 0151<br />

708 4300) Chef Paula<br />

O’Neill’s simple, highquality<br />

British cooking<br />

has won critical<br />

acclaim in one of the<br />

better hotel restaurant<br />

experiences to be had<br />

in the region – close<br />

to the waterfront.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

White Star (2–4<br />

Rainford Gardens,<br />

tel: 0151 231 6861)<br />

Virtually unchanged<br />

in its 130-year history,<br />

The White Star is a<br />

busy compact pub<br />

in the centre of town,<br />

whose regular clientele<br />

provide a taste of the<br />

noodles | rice dishes | dumplings<br />

salads and more! visit wagamama.com<br />

real Liverpool. Drink<br />

traditional ales and<br />

chat to locals, or relax<br />

in the back room.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Zanzibar Club<br />

(43 Seel Street, tel:<br />

0151 707 0633) An<br />

intimate setting<br />

in which to watch<br />

the best unsigned<br />

bands around, the<br />

Zanzibar is a small,<br />

independent venue<br />

and a good alternative<br />

to the mainstream.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Magnet (45<br />

Hardman Street,<br />

tel: 0151 709 7560)<br />

Ensconced within<br />

the so-called cultural<br />

quarter and below<br />

the radar of many,<br />

it’s an urbane crowd<br />

that patronises this<br />

multi award-winning<br />

bar with an emphasis<br />

on cool sounds from<br />

top Djs.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP From an<br />

appropriately aquatic<br />

location, Nauticalia<br />

RADISSON BLU<br />

LIVERPOOL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Views on one side of<br />

this hotel are of the<br />

River Mersey, while<br />

on the other side<br />

guests enjoy modern<br />

decor and city views.<br />

From €95, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

uses traditional<br />

materials to make<br />

everything for the<br />

maritime lover, from a<br />

fl eet review telescope<br />

to a pocket blowtorch<br />

lighter perfect for<br />

lighting a pipe on a<br />

blustery day at sea<br />

(Albert Dock).<br />

SEE Distinctive,<br />

unconventional and<br />

always surprising,<br />

Charline von Heyl is at<br />

the forefront of a new<br />

generation of abstract<br />

painters. Tate Liverpool<br />

is hosting the fi rst<br />

major UK exhibition<br />

from the German<br />

painter (until 27 May,<br />

Albert Dock).<br />

GO A hop and a skip<br />

from the main train<br />

station is St John’s<br />

Gardens, bordering<br />

some of the city’s<br />

fi nest – occasionally<br />

overlooked – cultural<br />

treasures, like the neoclassical<br />

St George’s<br />

Hall and Walker Art<br />

Gallery collection<br />

featuring masterpieces<br />

by Rembrandt, Turner<br />

and Hockney.<br />

ESCAPE The<br />

dramatic landscape<br />

of the Lake District<br />

National Park is a<br />

quick drive from<br />

Liverpool. The market<br />

town of Kendal is a<br />

good base for the<br />

southern slopes<br />

and England’s<br />

largest natural lake,<br />

Windermere.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Liverpool Cathedral’s<br />

Grand Organ is the<br />

largest in the UK with<br />

10,268 pipes.<br />

Gerry Corner


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Ljubljana<br />

Slovenia<br />

DIALLING CODE +386<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (STN),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €45.<br />

Buses leave<br />

every hour till<br />

8pm. Tickets: €4.10.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Vodnikov Hram<br />

(2 Vodnikov Trg, tel: 01<br />

234 5260) If<br />

you’re taking the<br />

funicular up to the<br />

castle, consider lunch<br />

here beforehand.<br />

Hearty Slovenian<br />

specialities and beer<br />

are on the menu.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Manna (1A Eipprova<br />

Ulica, tel: 01 283<br />

5294) Surely the best<br />

restaurant in trendy<br />

Trnovo. Settle in for<br />

some excellent fresh<br />

Adriatic seafood,<br />

Istrian truffl es and<br />

some seriously underrated<br />

Slovenian wines.<br />

Not as touristy as the<br />

fi ne-dining eateries<br />

in the Old Town.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Randevu<br />

(19 Mestni Trg)<br />

Slovenia boasts some<br />

superb wines and<br />

here you can try some<br />

crisp, dry whites from<br />

the Vipava Valley or<br />

some hearty reds from<br />

Goriska Brda, right<br />

down by the waterfront<br />

in the Old Town.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

InBox (224 Jurckova<br />

Cesta) Worth a<br />

detour out of the city<br />

centre. Party with an<br />

up-for-it and fairly<br />

unpretentious crowd.<br />

House tunes rule in<br />

this relaxed party hub.<br />

Mainly local DJs, but<br />

the occasional out-oftowner<br />

drops in for a<br />

turn on the decks.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

A Belgian couple were<br />

so impressed by the<br />

Slovenian capital that<br />

they decided to name<br />

their child Ljubljana,<br />

which translates into<br />

English as “Beloved”.<br />

robinmckelvie.com<br />

OLD TOWN<br />

MARKETS<br />

GO The chocolate<br />

box Old Town is a<br />

warren of cobbled<br />

streets, cafés, chic<br />

bars, and a whole<br />

host of markets. Visit<br />

a few of them for a<br />

real sense of local<br />

food and crafts.<br />

London<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Aberdeen, Agadir,<br />

Alicante, Almería,<br />

Amman, Amsterdam,<br />

Antalya, Asturias,<br />

Athens, Barcelona,<br />

Bari, Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Belfast, Biarritz,<br />

Bilbao, Bodrum,<br />

Bologna, Bordeaux,<br />

Budapest, Cagliari<br />

(Sardinia), Catania,<br />

Cologne/Bonn,<br />

Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />

Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />

Corsica (Bastia),<br />

Crete (Chania), Crete<br />

(Heraklion), Corfu,<br />

Cyprus (Larnaca),<br />

Cyprus (Paphos),<br />

Dalaman, Dortmund,<br />

Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro,<br />

Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />

Gibraltar, Glasgow, Gran<br />

Canaria, Grenoble,<br />

Hamburg, Hurghada,<br />

Ibiza, Innsbruck,<br />

Istanbul, Inverness,<br />

Izmir, Jersey, Kefalonia,<br />

Kefl avik, Kos, Krakow,<br />

Lanzarote, La Rochelle,<br />

Lisbon, Ljubljana, Luxor,<br />

Lyon, Madeira, Madrid,<br />

Majorca, Málaga,<br />

Malta, Marrakech,<br />

Marseille, Menorca,<br />

Milan (MXP, LIN),<br />

Montpellier, Munich,<br />

Murcia, Mykonos,<br />

Nantes, Naples, Nice,<br />

Olbia, Palermo, Paris<br />

(CDG), Pisa, Porto,<br />

Prague, Rhodes,<br />

Rome, Salzburg,<br />

Santorini, Seville,<br />

Sharm El Sheikh, Sofi a,<br />

Split, Tallinn, Tel Aviv,<br />

Tenerife, Thessaloniki,<br />

Toulouse, Valencia,<br />

Venice, Verona, Vienna,<br />

Zagreb, Zante, Zürich<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

LUTON<br />

TAXI<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

£80.<br />

National Express<br />

coaches leave<br />

Victoria every half an<br />

hour. Buy onboard,<br />

tickets: £15.50 single;<br />

£22.50 return.<br />

Trains from Luton<br />

Airport Parkway<br />

go to London St<br />

Pancras. Tickets: £13<br />

(fi rstcapital<br />

connect.co.uk).<br />

GATWICK<br />

TAXI<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

£70 to London.<br />

The Gatwick<br />

Express to<br />

London Victoria runs<br />

every 15 minutes from<br />

4.35am–1.35am.<br />

Buy onboard.<br />

SOUTHEND<br />

TAXI<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

£130 to London.<br />

Regular trains<br />

travel to<br />

Liverpool Street.<br />

Tickets: £15 single.<br />

STANSTED<br />

TAXI<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

£100 to London.<br />

National Express<br />

runs a bus service<br />

to London Victoria.<br />

Tickets: £17 return.<br />

The Stansted<br />

Express runs<br />

every 15 minutes until<br />

00.30am. Exclusive<br />

Book. Play. Score. Share.<br />

Introducing the new free Marriott Golf app.<br />

Don’t tee-off without it.<br />

Visit us at MarriottGolf.co.uk and follow us @MarriottGolfUK<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 145<br />

easyJet discounted<br />

fares available when<br />

you buy onboard.<br />

For transport in<br />

London, Oyster<br />

cards are available<br />

with £20 of credit. Buy<br />

on board, tickets: £23.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Kimchee (71 High<br />

Holborn, WC1, 020<br />

7430 0956) First<br />

came sushi, then<br />

dim sum, and now<br />

Korean bites are<br />

the latest Eastern<br />

craze of cheap eats<br />

to hit the capital.<br />

Named after the<br />

Korean staple dish<br />

of chilli-fermented<br />

cabbage, this packed<br />

restaurant normally<br />

has people queueing<br />

round the block.<br />

Get there early and<br />

enjoy plum wine<br />

while selecting small<br />

dishes of dumplings,<br />

tempura and spicy<br />

chicken bulgogi<br />

(marinated meat with<br />

noodles). As fi lling as<br />

that all is, you have<br />

to try the brilliantly<br />

named bibimbap – a<br />

typical Korean dish<br />

with rice, veg, meat<br />

and a raw egg, which<br />

then cooks in your<br />

heated bowl.<br />

UP TO €30 The<br />

Door (33 Cornhill,<br />

EC3, tel: 020 7929<br />

1378) We could<br />

rhapsodise at length<br />

about the lobster<br />

and truffl e risotto<br />

or the strawberries<br />

and cream pavlova<br />

on off er at this<br />

smart city grill and<br />

oyster bar, but that<br />

would be to ignore<br />

the elephant in the<br />

room. Or rather the<br />

whopping great<br />

cow. That’s because<br />

the Door does one<br />

mean steak. Whether<br />

you’re fi ending for<br />

Argentine Angus,<br />

ludicrously tender<br />

Austalian Wagyu or<br />

a prime UK T-bone,<br />

this brasserie-styled<br />

eatery – all polished<br />

brass and deep<br />

mahogany – is up<br />

there with London’s<br />

current crop of top<br />

carnivore havens.<br />

And that really is<br />

saying something.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Chiswell Dining<br />

Rooms (56 Chiswell<br />

Street, EC1, 020 7614<br />

0177) Suited and<br />

booted customers<br />

with a penchant for a<br />

good wine fi ll out the<br />

small dining room of<br />

this Barbican eatery.<br />

The low lighting and<br />

muted conversation<br />

over dinner contrast<br />

slightly with the<br />

bar area, where the<br />

atmosphere – all<br />

hearty laughs and<br />

pint supping – is<br />

reminiscent of the<br />

days when this<br />

building was part<br />

of the Whitbred<br />

brewery. The menu,<br />

however, is as far<br />

removed from<br />

pub fare as you’ll<br />

fi nd with dishes<br />

such as succulent<br />

roast Yorkshire<br />

wood pigeon and<br />

Herefordshire snail<br />

and smoked bacon<br />

pie really showcasing<br />

the best of


146 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

London<br />

UK<br />

British cuisine in<br />

the 21st century.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Shaka<br />

Zulu (The Stables<br />

Market, Chalk Farm<br />

Road, NW1, tel: 020<br />

3376 9911)<br />

Roger Payne doesn’t<br />

do things by half.<br />

When the media<br />

mogul turned<br />

restaurateur decided<br />

to open a South<br />

African eatery, he<br />

went big. Set over<br />

8,000 sq m in<br />

Camden’s Stables<br />

Market, Shaka Zulu<br />

is a true statement<br />

destination: six-metre<br />

high warrior statues<br />

litter the place and<br />

authentic carved<br />

wooden murals<br />

cover every inch. The<br />

wine list is equally<br />

as impressive,<br />

with South African<br />

varieties you won’t<br />

fi nd elsewhere.<br />

Yet despite all this<br />

bombast, the menu<br />

still stands out. Where<br />

else, we ask, can<br />

you fi nd crocodile,<br />

succulent springbok,<br />

or ostrich fi llets? It’s<br />

a true taste of Africa.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Intercontinental<br />

Hotel (1 Hamilton<br />

Place, W1, 020 7493<br />

3476) Gearing up for<br />

next month’s Jubilee<br />

celebrations, the<br />

hotel’s new Afternoon<br />

Tea menu is certainly<br />

fi t for a king – or<br />

queen. In fact, chef,<br />

Paul Bates has had<br />

some help from Her<br />

Majesty’s very own<br />

chef, which is how<br />

her favourite cake –<br />

coff ee and walnut,<br />

for those interested<br />

– snuck on to the<br />

menu. With special<br />

teas, fl avoured<br />

breads and delicious<br />

scones, the Royal<br />

menu is just one of<br />

three afternoon tea<br />

selections available<br />

in the Arch Bar.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

The Underworld<br />

(174 Camden High<br />

Street, NW1, tel:<br />

020 7482 1932)<br />

Join London’s rock<br />

‘n’ roll youngsters<br />

at Underworld in<br />

Camden. The likes<br />

of the Black Rebel<br />

Motorcycle Club,<br />

Radiohead and<br />

Placebo have all<br />

played here, and the<br />

venue is legendary<br />

for its rather wild<br />

nights, which go on<br />

till late and often<br />

see band members<br />

unceremoniously<br />

stage diving by<br />

the end. May sees<br />

The Ordeal play<br />

on the 11th.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Lucky Voice (52<br />

Poland Street, W1,<br />

020 7439 3660) In<br />

the heart of Soho,<br />

exhibitionism is<br />

certainly not frowned<br />

upon, and at Lucky<br />

Voice those who<br />

normally shy away<br />

from the spotlight<br />

can jump right in to it<br />

in a private karaoke<br />

booth. Cocktails ease<br />

the transition from<br />

wall fl ower to Whitney<br />

Houston and the list<br />

of songs is sure to<br />

please even the most<br />

eclectic music fans.<br />

Go on, you know<br />

you want to.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Looking for<br />

an unusual souvenir<br />

of the Jubilee? Forget<br />

the jaded, faded<br />

printed tea towels<br />

and mugs and head<br />

for Shoreditch,<br />

where hipster gift<br />

shop Maiden hawk<br />

more tongue-incheek<br />

takes on the<br />

usual Brit-schtick.<br />

Vintage Royal Family<br />

memorabilia, dressem-up<br />

Wills and Kate<br />

paper dolls, even a<br />

solar-powered waving<br />

model of HRH herself.<br />

How very irreverent<br />

(188 Shoreditch<br />

High Street, E1).<br />

SEE French fashion<br />

house Hermès<br />

celebrates its 175th<br />

birthday with an<br />

exhibition all fans<br />

of the label will be<br />

ESCAPE<br />

An hour and a half<br />

from London, Dover<br />

Castle is heavy in<br />

history. The town has<br />

plenty of wartime<br />

tunnels, towers and<br />

museums. Try to<br />

spot France over the<br />

famous White Cliff s.<br />

vying to see. The<br />

craftsmanship that<br />

made the brand great<br />

– from 19th-century<br />

saddles to silk<br />

scarves and gloves<br />

– is on proud show<br />

in Leather Forever,<br />

from 8-27 May at<br />

the Royal Academy’s<br />

Burlington Gardens.<br />

For those who can<br />

aff ord a special<br />

edition piece, four<br />

handbags will be<br />

auctioned at the end<br />

of the run (royal<br />

academy.org.uk).<br />

GO At the<br />

confl uence of half a<br />

dozen major roads<br />

and roundabouts,<br />

Hammersmith might<br />

not be the prettiest<br />

of places, but its<br />

nightlife has plenty<br />

to off er. Live music<br />

and comedy at<br />

the Apollo and<br />

Lyric theatres are<br />

well lubricated<br />

by an enormous<br />

selection of drinking<br />

establishments,<br />

while hidden down<br />

a backstreet is<br />

Riverside, a locals’<br />

well-kept secret for<br />

fringe theatre and<br />

vintage cinema.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

A little-known fact<br />

is that the Queen,<br />

long before she<br />

was crowned on to<br />

the throne, actually<br />

used to have<br />

residence, not in<br />

Buckingham Palace,<br />

but on Hamilton<br />

Place, where the<br />

Intercontinental<br />

Hotel now stands.<br />

Amy Dennis<br />

Luxor<br />

Egypt<br />

DIALLING CODE +20<br />

CURRENCY EGP<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

EGP50 to the east<br />

bank, and EGP100<br />

to the west bank.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Cafeteria (Bus Station,<br />

West Bank) Go past<br />

all the little minibuses<br />

and at the end you will<br />

fi nd this café off ering<br />

amazing value, freshly<br />

cooked local food and<br />

something diff erent<br />

every day. No menu,<br />

but at 15LE for lunch,<br />

who cares?<br />

EXCLUSIVE The<br />

King and Thai at<br />

the Fortune Cookie<br />

(Medina Street at the<br />

junction with St Joseph<br />

Street) From the owner<br />

of Taste of India, The<br />

King and Thai has its<br />

own Thai chef and a full<br />

menu including green<br />

curry – a very welcome<br />

addition to the Luxor<br />

food scene.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Shisha<br />

Cafe (Al Gezera<br />

Village, West Bank)<br />

The shisha is popular<br />

with tourists. Apple<br />

tobacco is the most<br />

commonly requested,<br />

although the new<br />

Red Bull tobacco is<br />

certainly giving it a run<br />

for its money. Watch<br />

the Egyptian men<br />

play dominoes and<br />

backgammon while<br />

you sip a tea.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The King’s Head<br />

(Sharia Khalid Ibn<br />

Walid) The perfect<br />

late-night venue with<br />

billiards, beer and<br />

cocktails. It closes<br />

when you leave.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO After your visit to<br />

the temple, the tombs<br />

at Deir el Bahri are a<br />

must-visit. Pabasa is<br />

from the time when<br />

the God’s Wives of<br />

Amun ruled Thebes.<br />

These powerful ladies<br />

have chapels at<br />

Karnak, Medinet Habu<br />

and elsewhere. Pabasa<br />

was a chief steward<br />

of Nitocris. You get<br />

an idea of the power<br />

of these ladies by the<br />

size of their servant’s<br />

tombs. The scenes<br />

show bee-keeping,<br />

fi sh preparation and<br />

wine-making.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Egyptian weddings<br />

can be extravagant<br />

aff airs, with the brides<br />

often sporting a very<br />

made-up look. The<br />

party is huge, but the<br />

real legal wedding<br />

would normally have<br />

been done well before.<br />

Jane Akshar


The Brenta Dolomites in your hands.<br />

DOLOMEET CARD: FULL EMOTIONS, FULL FREEDOM.<br />

Live your summer in the spectacle of the Brenta Dolomites, Unesco World Heritage.<br />

7-night stay per person in hotel (half board) + 6 days DOLOMEET CARD, from 320 euro<br />

(the DOLOMEET CARD offers several services for a total value of more than 200 euro):<br />

6 guided excursions in the Adamello Brenta Nature Park 6 days of free access to the lifts 6 days of<br />

free access to the shuttle buses of Val Rendena 6 days of free parking and sustainable transports in the<br />

Park free entry in the most fascinating museums and castles of Trentino 6 days of discounts in the<br />

partner facilities and shops 6 days of many other activities included in the Park summer programme.<br />

Info and booking: www.campigliodolomiti.it<br />

Madonna di Campiglio · Pinzolo · Val Rendena<br />

· Adamello Brenta Nature Park ·


148 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Lyon<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir,<br />

Barcelona, Berlin,<br />

Biarritz, Bordeaux,<br />

Brest, Bristol,<br />

Brussels, Casablanca,<br />

Corsica (Ajaccio)<br />

Corsica (Bastia),<br />

Edinburgh, Ibiza,<br />

Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Madrid, Marrakech,<br />

Milan (MXP), Nantes,<br />

Nice, Olbia, Palermo,<br />

Porto, Prague, Rome,<br />

Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €55.<br />

The Rhônexpress<br />

Express goes to<br />

Lyon Part Dieu train<br />

station. Tickets: €13.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Ivan<br />

Healthy Food<br />

(74 Boulevard des<br />

Brotteaux, tel: 09<br />

8249 1978) Great<br />

new concept serving<br />

up salads you make<br />

yourself. With a choice<br />

of pasta, green leaves,<br />

crunchy vegetables,<br />

dried nuts and fruits.<br />

Save room for great<br />

house desserts<br />

including pecan pie.<br />

UP TO €30 Grand<br />

Café de Géneve (10<br />

Avenue Mar de Saxe,<br />

tel: 04 7852 1896)<br />

Daily specials and local<br />

specialities are cooked<br />

in copious portions<br />

and speedily served at<br />

this popular lunchtime<br />

restaurant. Meat lovers<br />

should opt for the<br />

chalkboard specials<br />

that always include<br />

a great piece of beef.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Restaurant Thomas<br />

(6 Rue Laurencin, tel:<br />

04 7256 0476) Tuck<br />

into dishes created<br />

with local produce of<br />

the fi nest and freshest<br />

quality, and choose<br />

a bottle from the<br />

extensive wine<br />

list to complement<br />

your meal.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

M Restaurant (47<br />

Avenue Foch, tel: 04<br />

7889 5519) Julien<br />

Gautier continues to<br />

fl y the fl ag at one of<br />

Lyon’s most reputable<br />

establishments.<br />

Simple associations<br />

of fresh seasonal<br />

produce using regional<br />

infl uences are served<br />

up in a psychedelic<br />

retro 1970s decor.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

L’Horloge (34<br />

Boulevard des<br />

Brotteaux, 6th, tel: 04<br />

3724 3349) Enjoy the<br />

street terrace where<br />

you can unwind and<br />

chat over a drink while<br />

watching the bustle<br />

of the city pass you by.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Eden<br />

Rock Café (68 Rue<br />

Merciere, tel: 04 7838<br />

2818) Rock, blues,<br />

funk, country and<br />

pop are played live<br />

from Wednesdays<br />

to Saturdays in<br />

this bustling venue<br />

that’s popular with<br />

twentysomethings.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Cargo (1 Bis Quai du<br />

Commerce) A riverboat<br />

that rocks until the<br />

early hours with DJ<br />

Nano. Enjoy cocktails<br />

on the terrace with the<br />

young crowd, before<br />

getting down to some<br />

serious tunes on the<br />

packed dancefl oor.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Head to Elsa<br />

Somano for a large<br />

selection of lamps and<br />

light fi ttings, sofas and<br />

textiles all designed by<br />

local creators (17 Rue<br />

du Mail). If vintage is<br />

your thing, Happy Days<br />

has unique decorations<br />

inspired by the 1950s<br />

(63 Rue Barbezat).<br />

SEE On 19 May<br />

throughout Lyon<br />

(and in fact all of<br />

LE CARRÉ<br />

MERCIÉRE<br />

APARTMENTS<br />

In a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site, this old<br />

convent has been<br />

reworked in to studio<br />

apartments with<br />

original features.<br />

From €149, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

France), museums<br />

open their doors for<br />

night visits. One not<br />

to miss is the Musée<br />

des Beaux Arts,<br />

where you can view<br />

fabulous permanent<br />

collections presented<br />

by torchlight (nuitdes<br />

musees.culture.fr).<br />

GO Running from<br />

16–20 May, Lyon’s<br />

10th Nuits Sonores<br />

electronic music<br />

festival promises to<br />

keep the huge crowds<br />

that fl ock from near<br />

and far on their<br />

feet with a series of<br />

concerts at venues<br />

across the city.<br />

Three-day passes are<br />

available and advised<br />

(nuits-sonores.com).<br />

ESCAPE Just 40km<br />

north of Lyon, Touro<br />

Parc is a zoo, museum<br />

and attraction park<br />

just for the little ones.<br />

The monorail, petit<br />

train and carousel<br />

are for the tots and<br />

the water zone and<br />

zoo are perfect for<br />

the older kids<br />

(touroparc.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Look closely at the<br />

statue of Louis XIV<br />

standing in Place<br />

Bellecour. Legend has<br />

it that the sculptor<br />

committed suicide<br />

after forgetting to<br />

attribute the king with<br />

stirrups. It was later<br />

understood that this<br />

was not an oversight<br />

but a representation<br />

of the king riding<br />

without a saddle.<br />

Lemot in fact died of<br />

natural causes in 1827.<br />

John Brown<br />

Madeira<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Lisbon,<br />

London (LGW, STN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The Aerobus<br />

goes to the main<br />

hotel area. Tickets: €5.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Frango<br />

da Guia (7 Travessa<br />

Doutor Valente, tel: 291<br />

762 911) Guia is a town<br />

in the Algarve famed<br />

for its roast chickens,<br />

and this place carries<br />

on the tradition with<br />

sublime grills in a lively<br />

upstairs dining room<br />

on the edges of the<br />

hotel zone.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Estalagem Ponta do<br />

Sol (6 Caminho do<br />

Passo, Ponta do Sol, tel:<br />

291 970 200) Dine at<br />

this stunning boutique<br />

hotel that sits on a<br />

cliff top in the village of<br />

Ponta do Sol, just west<br />

of Funchal. Start with<br />

a terrine of foie gras<br />

with fi gs and Madeira<br />

wine jelly, follow with<br />

fresh fi sh, tiger prawns<br />

au gratin or duck with<br />

chard and round it off<br />

with unusual desserts<br />

such as pumpkin<br />

panna cotta.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Cervejaria<br />

Beerhouse (Pontão<br />

de São Lázaro, tel:<br />

291 229 011) As you’d<br />

expect from its name,<br />

this bar-restaurant<br />

is the place to go for<br />

a cool beer, brewed<br />

on the premises and<br />

best enjoyed on the<br />

breezy terrace facing<br />

Funchal’s marina.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

O Molhe (Estrada da<br />

Pontinha, Porto do<br />

Funchal) This superbly<br />

positioned bar and club<br />

is part of a 17th-century<br />

sea fort high above<br />

Funchal’s harbour.<br />

There are three dance<br />

spaces, each with their<br />

own sounds and all<br />

keep going until the<br />

small hours.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE May starts with<br />

the Feast of Saint<br />

Tiago Menor, for<br />

Funchal’s patron saint,<br />

with festivities and<br />

events around the Old<br />

Town; and ends with<br />

the Sé Festivities, with<br />

a week of live music,<br />

performances and<br />

stalls in the streets.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Funchal is one of<br />

the world’s hotspots<br />

for cruise ships – in<br />

2011 alone, more<br />

than half a million<br />

passengers visited<br />

Funchal harbour from<br />

passing cruises.<br />

Matthew Hancock


150 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Madrid<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />

Bilbao, Bordeaux,<br />

Bristol, Copenhagen,<br />

Crete (Heraklion),<br />

Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,<br />

Geneva, Ibiza, La<br />

Coruña, Lanzarote,<br />

Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Lyon, Manchester,<br />

Menorca, Milan (MXP),<br />

Naples, Olbia, Paris<br />

(CDG), Rome, Tangier,<br />

Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

A three-day<br />

travel card gives<br />

you unlimited use<br />

within zone A. Buy<br />

onboard, tickets: €13.<br />

Metro line 8<br />

connects to the<br />

city centre. Tickets €2.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Orio (49<br />

Calle Fuencarral, tel:<br />

915 218 318) Fight your<br />

way to the counter<br />

to get your share of<br />

the authentic Basque<br />

tapas and snacks in<br />

this popular, informal<br />

restaurant. Choose<br />

from over 15 varieties<br />

including seafood and<br />

chorizo. There are also<br />

excellent fresh oysters<br />

to enjoy.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Mérimée (61 Calle<br />

Fuencarral, tel: 911<br />

166 702) This recently<br />

opened restaurant<br />

is already proving a<br />

big hit. The cocktail<br />

list is one of the best<br />

in Madrid, while<br />

the menu features<br />

delectable dishes such<br />

as mini hamburgers<br />

with parmesan, risotto<br />

or perfectly cooked<br />

monkfi sh with yuka<br />

chips. Sweet tooths will<br />

love the apple crumble.<br />

UP TO €50 Loft 39<br />

(39 Calle Velazquez,<br />

tel: 914 324 386) Sit<br />

back and enjoy the<br />

Mediterranean fl avours<br />

in chic, designer<br />

surroundings. Starters<br />

include succulent<br />

octopus and crunchy<br />

asparagus tempura.<br />

Follow with seafood,<br />

rice dishes, steaks and<br />

baked fi sh. There is<br />

also a lounge area and<br />

an open-air terrace.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Goya<br />

Restaurant (5 Plaza<br />

de la Lealtad, tel: 917<br />

016 767) Goya, in the<br />

Ritz, off ers exquisite<br />

Spanish cuisine with<br />

French infl uences<br />

in an extravagant,<br />

Belle Époque setting.<br />

Chef Jorge González<br />

off ers a lavish menu<br />

which includes tender<br />

pasta pillows with<br />

langoustines, or rabbit<br />

with cuttlefi sh. Allow<br />

the experienced<br />

sommelier to guide<br />

you with Spanish and<br />

French wines.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le<br />

Cabrera (2 Calle<br />

Barbara de Braganza,<br />

tel: 913 199 457) With<br />

its cool tunes and retro<br />

decor, antique cocktail<br />

shakers and mirrors,<br />

the downstairs cocktail<br />

bar at Le Cabrera<br />

restaurant is a popular<br />

choice. Try the Mr<br />

Antoni cocktail, a mix<br />

of whisky, ginger and<br />

honey. Drinks can be<br />

matched with tapas.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Siroco<br />

(3 Calle San Dimas, tel:<br />

915 933 070) A lively<br />

programme of local<br />

funk and rock bands<br />

is on off er at Siroco,<br />

which opens its doors<br />

to the city’s young,<br />

cool 20-somethings<br />

around 10pm for gigs,<br />

before turning into<br />

a club after midnight.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Sky-Night Lounge<br />

(Hotel Silken Puerta<br />

de America, 41<br />

Avenida de America,<br />

tel: 917 445 400)<br />

Move with a stunning<br />

crowd in this open-air<br />

nightspot with decor<br />

by Philippe Starck.<br />

The extensive cocktail<br />

list has plenty of<br />

temptations including<br />

the summer favourite,<br />

passionfruit Martini.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP On the buzzy<br />

Gran Vía, top brands<br />

vie for your attention.<br />

Wander into the small<br />

streets, branching<br />

off on either side,<br />

to discover shops<br />

boasting work by<br />

Spanish designers<br />

such as Dolores<br />

Promesas (22<br />

Calle Desengaño).<br />

Don’t miss the new<br />

megastore by trendy<br />

Spanish label Desigual<br />

(Plaza Callao).<br />

SEE The Thyssen-<br />

Bornemisza Museum<br />

hosts a massive<br />

exhibition of works by<br />

Marc Chagall as well as<br />

a selection of exquisite<br />

Indian miniatures<br />

(museothyssen.<br />

org). Caixa Forum<br />

is where to catch<br />

the stunning dance<br />

costumes, photos and<br />

set designs from the<br />

famed Ballets Russes<br />

(obrasocial.lacaixa.es).<br />

GO Take a stroll along<br />

the four kilometres of<br />

landscaped pathways<br />

in the Madrid Rio Park<br />

which follows the<br />

Manzanares River.<br />

There are play areas<br />

for the kids, great views<br />

and cafés to refuel.<br />

ESCAPE Just 40<br />

minutes by train from<br />

Madrid’s Atocha train<br />

station, Aranjuez is a<br />

pretty, royal town with<br />

an impressive 17thcentury<br />

palace, formal<br />

gardens, a river and<br />

a good selection of<br />

restaurants and bars.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Today, Madrid’s Plaza<br />

Mayor is fi lled with<br />

restaurants, but during<br />

the 17th and 18th<br />

centuries, it was the<br />

scene of gruesome<br />

burning of religious<br />

heretics at the stake.<br />

Scott Adams<br />

Sitting S comfortably?<br />

Majorca<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel, Belfast<br />

(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />

Dortmund, Edinburgh,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow,<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW, LTN, SEN,<br />

STN), Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />

Newcastle, Paris<br />

(CDG), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Route 1 goes to<br />

central Palma.<br />

Tickets: €2. For Arenal<br />

take bus No.21.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 The<br />

Rosemallow (4 Paseo<br />

de Illetas, tel: 971<br />

702 291) This small<br />

but popular venue<br />

off ers an inviting,<br />

sunny terrace serving<br />

up freshly prepared<br />

snacks including<br />

salads, baguettes and<br />

baked potatoes.<br />

UP TO €30 Celler<br />

Sa Premsa (8 Placa<br />

Obispo Berenguer<br />

de Palou, tel: 971 723<br />

529) This popular<br />

Majorcan restaurant<br />

serves up good, fi lling,<br />

everyday fare with<br />

advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />

a wide selection of<br />

classic dishes on off er.<br />

A great ambience and<br />

reasonable prices<br />

add to this dining<br />

experience. Regional<br />

wines fi ll out the<br />

wine list.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Fernando’s Utopia<br />

(Port Adriano, El Toro,<br />

tel: 971 232 425) In<br />

the scenic port of El<br />

Toro, Utopia serves<br />

fresh Mediterranean<br />

cuisine such as<br />

stuff ed lamb “violet<br />

style” with purée of<br />

carrots and cinnamon,<br />

black “sepia” rice and<br />

chicken stuff ed with<br />

prawns and lime.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Port<br />

Petit (Avda Cala<br />

Llonga, Cala d’Or, tel:<br />

971 643 039) This<br />

restaurant, overlooking<br />

the marina, off ers the<br />

perfect combination<br />

of excellent service<br />

and exquisite cuisine.<br />

Chef Gerard Deymier<br />

uses only the freshest<br />

ingredients to create<br />

his masterpieces<br />

HOPOSA<br />

UYAL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Recently upgraded<br />

from three to four<br />

stars, Uyal is a haven<br />

for relaxation right<br />

on the beachfront of<br />

the Bay of Pellensa.<br />

From €65, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Imagine over<br />

5 million people looking<br />

at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />

Make ppart<br />

of your plan today<br />

150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/2011 15:01


THE FIRST LUXURY ART HOTEL ROMA<br />

Inspired by contemporary art and design on a modern and international concept, The First Luxury Art Hotel Roma is located in the<br />

historical center of Rome, Via del Vantaggio, a street between Piazza del Popolo, Via del Corso and Via del Babuino. The historic<br />

building, which dates back to the 19th century, has been completely renovated in accordance with the original architecture and<br />

redesigned with refined colors and natural materials to give life to a modern class atmosphere. The charming soul of the building<br />

and enchanting ambience of the surrounding lanes ensure guests a moving experience, rich with intriguing contrasts between<br />

history and modernity, between tradition and technology. The hotel offers 29 elegant and stylish rooms including 6 deluxe rooms<br />

and 23 suite and two splendid locations for savoring the excellent cooking traditional Roman dishes: the Overhall Restaurant on<br />

the elegant lobby floor and the panoramic terrace roof garden the perfect location to enjoy a sunset cocktail with the breathtaking<br />

view of the Roman rooftops.<br />

R O M A R E S T A U R A N T<br />

The First Luxury Art Hotel Roma ■ Via del Vantaggio 14, Roma<br />

Tel. +39 06 45617070 ■ info@thefirsthotel.com ■ thefirsthotel.com


152 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Majorca<br />

Spain<br />

such as poached<br />

hake in a clam sauce. It<br />

also boasts King Juan<br />

Carlos as a regular.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Las<br />

Terrazas Beach Club<br />

(52A Avenida Illetas,<br />

tel: 971 401 031) One<br />

of the many chic beach<br />

clubs springing up<br />

across the island, Las<br />

Terrazas overlooks<br />

Balnear Beach, at<br />

Illetas, combining the<br />

traditional concept of<br />

the chiringuito bar with<br />

an added touch of cool.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Backstage (4 Calle<br />

Porto Pi, Paseo<br />

Maritimo, Palma, tel:<br />

971 707 821) This new,<br />

trendy location hosts<br />

live bands from across<br />

Spain playing pop,<br />

rock, soul and jazz.<br />

Weekends only from<br />

midnight til 2.30am,<br />

after which the place<br />

transforms into<br />

a nightclub.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

BCM Disco Empire<br />

(1 Avenida s’Olivera,<br />

Magaluf, tel: 971<br />

131 546) With top<br />

European DJs,<br />

spectacular laser<br />

shows, and techno,<br />

dance and other<br />

rhythms played out<br />

on three fl oors, this<br />

is Majorca’s biggest<br />

nightspot, open till<br />

6am. There are also<br />

regular party nights<br />

and the club boasts<br />

the world’s largest<br />

foam machine – if<br />

that’s what you’re after.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The Camper<br />

Factory Outlet is where<br />

the world-famous<br />

Spanish shoes are<br />

made. Take your fi rst<br />

pick at the new designs<br />

at greatly reduced<br />

prices. Simply follow<br />

the huge billboards<br />

featuring a rather<br />

large foot and you<br />

can’t miss it (Inca).<br />

SEE The Sa Fira<br />

and Es Firo festivals<br />

take place during the<br />

second week of May<br />

in Soller and feature<br />

the traditional battle<br />

of the Moors and<br />

Christians, including<br />

dances, market stalls<br />

and exhibitions.<br />

GO The old quarters<br />

in Alcudia town, with<br />

picturesque cobbled<br />

streets, are a hive of<br />

activity both day and<br />

night with many<br />

cafés, bars and<br />

restaurants to suit all<br />

tastes and budgets.<br />

ESCAPE For all<br />

you petrol-heads out<br />

there, MotoTrackdays<br />

Mallorca, operating<br />

at the RennArena<br />

National Circuit in<br />

Llucmajor (10 minutes<br />

from Palma) off ers an<br />

exciting range of race<br />

prepared motorcycles<br />

and track riding<br />

equipment for hire<br />

(mototrackdays<br />

mallorca.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The remains of the<br />

English poet and<br />

novelist, Robert Graves,<br />

can be found at the<br />

church cemetery in<br />

Deia, in the north-west.<br />

David Anderson<br />

Málaga<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />

Bristol, Geneva,<br />

Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

SEN, STN), Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP),<br />

Newcastle, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €16.<br />

Buses go to<br />

Málaga with<br />

links to all the coastal<br />

resorts. Tickets: €1.20.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Rincon<br />

Chinitas (9 Pasaje de<br />

Chinitas, tel: 95 222<br />

3029) Located on<br />

one of Málaga’s most<br />

evocative and historic<br />

streets (Lorca used<br />

to hang out here),<br />

this tiny tapas bar<br />

dishes up the tastiest<br />

berenjenas con miel<br />

(fried aubergines<br />

with honey) in town.<br />

Alternatively, go for<br />

that special seafood<br />

moment with a plate<br />

of fritura malagueño<br />

(fried fi sh).<br />

UP TO €30 Da<br />

Fabio (Paseo Maritimo,<br />

Edifi cio Mediterraneo,<br />

Marbella, tel: 952<br />

823 376) Right on<br />

the promenade, this<br />

longstanding Italian<br />

restaurant dishes up<br />

a solid menu of pizza<br />

and pasta favourites.<br />

There is plenty of<br />

terrace seating for<br />

catching the rays.<br />

UP TO €50 El<br />

Padrastro (22 Paseo<br />

del Compás, Mijas, tel:<br />

952 485 000) Perched<br />

on a cliff above the<br />

village, the views of the<br />

coast from El Padrastro<br />

are stunning. The food<br />

is pretty good, too,<br />

with dishes such as<br />

roast pork with a rich<br />

sherry sauce.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Tragabuches (1<br />

Calle José Aparacio,<br />

Ronda, tel: 952 190<br />

291) Located near the<br />

legendary bullring, this<br />

celebrated Michelinstarred<br />

restaurant<br />

serves innovative and<br />

well-crafted dishes<br />

such as ajo blanco<br />

(white garlic soup)<br />

with pistachios, and<br />

a choice of several<br />

game dishes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Morrissey’s Pub (3<br />

Plaza del Siglo) This<br />

pub has plenty of<br />

blarney atmosphere<br />

and gets packed out<br />

with malagueños at<br />

weekends. There is<br />

occasional live music<br />

for a bout of foot<br />

tapping while you<br />

are downing your pint<br />

of Guinness.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Onda<br />

Pasadena (5 Calle<br />

Gómez Pallete) A<br />

smoochy, smokey<br />

club with live jazz on<br />

Thursdays as well as<br />

regular fl amenco. It<br />

attracts a healthy mix<br />

of age groups and<br />

locals and visitors.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Pangea (Edifi cio Club<br />

del Mar, Puerto Banus,<br />

Marbella, tel: 665 668<br />

103) A luxurious seeand-be-seen<br />

nightclub<br />

in the heart of glitzy<br />

Puerto Banus with a<br />

rooftop terrace and a<br />

regular line up<br />

of top international<br />

DJs. Ladies, don the<br />

glad rags and those<br />

killer heels – it’s that<br />

kind of place.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP La Recova is<br />

a cavernous treasure<br />

trove of a shop spread<br />

over two large rooms.<br />

Antiques such as<br />

rustic-style wardrobes<br />

and carved back<br />

chairs sit side by side<br />

MS<br />

MAESTRANZA<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Much of the hotel’s<br />

furniture looks like<br />

a Picasso creation.<br />

Request a room<br />

overlooking the<br />

Bullring. From<br />

€75, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

with classic bicycles,<br />

straw baskets and<br />

bowls, brass framed<br />

mirrors and vintage<br />

clothing (5 Pasaje<br />

Nuestra Señora de<br />

los Dolores de San<br />

Juan, Málaga).<br />

SEE Córdoba is<br />

famous for its beautiful<br />

Moorish patios; the<br />

walls covered with pots<br />

of brilliantly coloured<br />

geraniums. Every May,<br />

the city holds a contest<br />

and the most beautiful<br />

patios open their<br />

doors to the public<br />

(2–13 May).<br />

GO The nature<br />

reserve of the Parque<br />

Natural Torcal is<br />

located just south of<br />

Antequera and is a<br />

real lunar landscape<br />

of extraordinary rock<br />

formations dominated<br />

by a looming mountain.<br />

There are several<br />

marked trails, so lace<br />

up those trainers and<br />

get ready to stride out.<br />

ESCAPE Laguna<br />

de Fuente de Piedra<br />

is Andalucia’s largest<br />

natural lake and one<br />

of Europe’s main<br />

breeding grounds for<br />

the greater fl amingo.<br />

The chicks generally<br />

hatch around this<br />

time of year and the<br />

fl amingoes stay until<br />

the summer when the<br />

lake dries out.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Although some 14<br />

million people fl y into<br />

Málaga annually, most<br />

still head straight for<br />

the coastal resorts,<br />

even after the capital<br />

had a facelift.<br />

Josephine Quintero


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Albufeira (Portugal)


154 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Malta<br />

Malta<br />

DIALLING CODE +356<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Belfast, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Manchester,<br />

Newcastle, Milan<br />

(MXP), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €16.<br />

TheX1, X2, X3, X4<br />

are all express<br />

services to the city.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Agliolio<br />

(Radisson Blue Golden<br />

Sands, Golden Sands,<br />

tel: 2356 1000) It’s the<br />

perfect time of year<br />

to enjoy this al fresco<br />

eatery, which overlooks<br />

one of the island’s best<br />

beaches – Golden<br />

Sands. Tuck into<br />

scrummy pizza, pasta<br />

and fresh fi sh, enjoyed<br />

with a glass from their<br />

excellent wine list.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Palazzo Preca (54<br />

Strait Street, Valletta,<br />

tel: 2122 6777) This<br />

<strong>may</strong> be one of the most<br />

exclusive restaurants in<br />

the capital, but it is very<br />

well priced. Charming<br />

Katie<br />

before<br />

treatment<br />

chef Ramona adds<br />

that personal touch by<br />

regularly popping out<br />

to say hello. Her dishes<br />

are delicious – from<br />

the complimentary<br />

nibbles right up to<br />

the mouth-watering<br />

desserts, and all<br />

beautifully presented.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Vinum<br />

Wine Bar (1 Bastion<br />

Street, Mdina) Enjoy<br />

a walk through the<br />

Silent City of Mdina<br />

before getting stuck<br />

into Vinum’s fantastic<br />

wine list.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Havana (St George’s<br />

Road, Paceville, tel: 21<br />

374 500) The home<br />

of R’n’B, hip-hop<br />

and great old-school<br />

classics in Malta.<br />

Prepare to party until<br />

the early morning,<br />

surrounded by<br />

smooth sounds in<br />

a great atmosphere.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The countryside<br />

is at its best at this<br />

time of year, so make<br />

the most of it by<br />

heading south for a<br />

walk in Zurrieq. Then,<br />

to top things off , jump<br />

a little fi shing boat<br />

to the Blue Grotto,<br />

where the blue waters<br />

beguile belief.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

For the best<br />

360-degree views<br />

of Gozo, head to the<br />

historic walled<br />

Citadel in Victoria<br />

and walk around<br />

the bastion walls.<br />

Jo Caruana<br />

Manchester<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Athens,<br />

Belfast, Berlin, Bilbao,<br />

Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />

Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />

(Heraklion), Cyprus<br />

(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />

Geneva, Hamburg,<br />

Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Malta,<br />

Marrakech, Munich,<br />

Sharm El Sheikh,<br />

Sofi a, Tenerife, Zürich<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £20.<br />

Trains depart for<br />

the city centre<br />

every 10 minutes.<br />

Tickets: £5.40 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Salvi’s (The Triangle,<br />

Exchange Square) The<br />

focus of this new deli<br />

bar is Salvi’s Mozzarella<br />

di Bufala Campana<br />

DOP, imported from<br />

the company’s HQ in<br />

Milan. With a late-night<br />

licence and stash of<br />

fi ne Italian wines and<br />

spirits, it’s a chic spot<br />

for a snack.<br />

UP TO €30 Baekdu<br />

(77 Shudehill, tel: 0161<br />

834 2227) Authentic<br />

Korean grub is what<br />

this café-diner does<br />

best. The shredded<br />

beef bibimbap<br />

(mixed meal) is<br />

recommended, as<br />

is the crab and king<br />

prawn hot pot.<br />

More canteen than<br />

classic restaurant.<br />

UP TO €50 Café<br />

Istanbul (79–81<br />

Bridge Street, tel:<br />

0161 833 9942) This<br />

established Middle<br />

Eastern restaurant has<br />

just been renovated.<br />

Lashings of Moroccan<br />

red, orange and gold<br />

provide a cosy setting<br />

for slow-cooked lamb<br />

with apricots, melted<br />

feta and spinach pastry<br />

triangles and baklava.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Room<br />

(81 King Street, tel:<br />

0161 839 2005) Dating<br />

from the Victorian era,<br />

stately Room once<br />

played host to Winston<br />

Churchill. Today, it’s a<br />

contemporary bar and<br />

restaurant, its menu<br />

full of classics with a<br />

twist – think regional<br />

lamb cooked two ways<br />

and homemade Scotch<br />

eggs. The wine and<br />

cocktail list are among<br />

Manchester’s best too.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

Bay Horse (35–37<br />

Thomas Street) Cosy<br />

with a contemporary<br />

edge, this is one of<br />

the original Northern<br />

Quarter bars. Live<br />

shows, pizzas and<br />

wines make this<br />

a solid all rounder.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Soup Kitchen (33<br />

Spear Street, tel: 0161<br />

236 5100) One of the<br />

hippest bars in town<br />

right now, Soup’s cellar<br />

plays host to club<br />

nights and live bands.<br />

Tuck into the carnival<br />

vibes of parties like<br />

Swing Ting this month<br />

after indie acts like My<br />

Best Fiend.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Islington Mill (James<br />

Street, Salford)<br />

Housed in a Victorian<br />

cotton mill, this<br />

300-capacity venue is<br />

one of the city’s fi nest<br />

for alternative music.<br />

This month showcases<br />

new sounds from<br />

Grimes and Kuedo as<br />

well as artists on the Tri<br />

Angle label.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Inspired by<br />

a vintage Russian<br />

camera brand,<br />

Lomography is an<br />

over-saturated hit.<br />

New to the Northern<br />

Quarter, the<br />

PALACE<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

In an iconic red-brick<br />

Manchester building,<br />

this hotel has had<br />

many a renovation<br />

since it fi rst opened.<br />

Great location too.<br />

From €94, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

store sells cameras<br />

from £50, with<br />

free exhibitions to<br />

check out too (20<br />

Oldham Street).<br />

SEE FutureEverything<br />

is a festival of art,<br />

music and ideas.<br />

Taking over iconic<br />

venues, including Royal<br />

Northern College of<br />

Music and Victoria<br />

Baths, on 16-19 May,<br />

the programme unites<br />

rising stars John<br />

Talabot and FaltyDL<br />

with innovators<br />

Amon Toibin and<br />

Matthew Herbert<br />

(futureeverything.org).<br />

GO The city centre<br />

is easy to get around,<br />

but it’s worth<br />

spending some time<br />

in the area just west<br />

of Piccadilly station.<br />

Dale Street is home to<br />

cute cafés like North<br />

Star Deli, and one of<br />

the city’s best places<br />

to get a beer, Port<br />

Street Beer House.<br />

ESCAPE Rivington<br />

Pike is a sprawling<br />

landscaped garden<br />

40 minutes north of<br />

Manchester. Asianinspired<br />

ponds and<br />

staircases to nowhere<br />

litter the forest. When<br />

you have had your fi ll<br />

of countryside, stop<br />

off at The Black Dog in<br />

Belmont for a pint and<br />

a Sunday roast.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

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156 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Marrakech<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Manchester, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about MAD60.<br />

The hourly L19<br />

bus goes to the<br />

Jemaa el Fna. Tickets:<br />

MAD20 single.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Sur<br />

Une Ardoise (Route de<br />

Targa, Camp el Ghoul,<br />

tel: 0524 430 209)<br />

Come for a classic<br />

bistro atmosphere<br />

and an interesting,<br />

seasonal menu. The<br />

chef infuses his dishes<br />

with Moroccan spices<br />

and excites with<br />

adventurous dishes –<br />

think shark carpaccio.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Amanjena Thai<br />

(Route de Ouarzazate<br />

12km, tel: 0524 403<br />

353) This wonderful<br />

restaurant is housed<br />

in the superlative<br />

Amanjena hotel. With<br />

vital ingredients fl own<br />

in from Thailand and<br />

a team of Thai chefs<br />

Dar Habiba<br />

Riad Papillon<br />

Riad Cinnamon<br />

+ 212 (0) 61423 4965<br />

+ 44 (0) 207 193 7357<br />

whipping up delicacies,<br />

this is really authentic<br />

cuisine.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

Piano Bar (26 Rue<br />

de la Koutoubia,<br />

tel: 0524 488 800)<br />

A smouldering bar<br />

decorated in rich reds<br />

and blacks. Excellent<br />

for a moody drink<br />

while listening to some<br />

live piano numbers.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Local abstract<br />

artist, Chalal, uses<br />

Galerie Bleu to feature<br />

his work alongdside<br />

other contemporary<br />

Moroccan and foreign<br />

artists. Chalal’s Berber<br />

origins mix with a<br />

blend of Miró-esque<br />

shapes (119 Avenue<br />

Mohammed V).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Marrakech was the<br />

setting for Sex And<br />

The City 2.<br />

Roisin Kiernan/<br />

hg2.com<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Diamant Noir<br />

(Place de la Liberté)<br />

A no-frills nightclub<br />

of the kind found<br />

across the globe,<br />

Le Diamant Noir<br />

attracts a vibrant<br />

mix of students<br />

and visitors.<br />

Marseille<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €50.<br />

A shuttle bus to<br />

Gare St Charles<br />

train station, leaves<br />

every 20 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €8.50.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le<br />

Jardin des Arts (53<br />

Rue Marx Dormoy,<br />

tel: 04 9124 9238)<br />

This delightful French<br />

restaurant with<br />

cute terrace serves<br />

freshly prepared<br />

dishes, from lobster<br />

and smoked salmon<br />

quiche to giant<br />

prawns with<br />

seafood risotto.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Une<br />

Table au Sud (2<br />

Quai du Port, tel: 04<br />

9190 6353) Noted<br />

chef Lionel Levy<br />

explodes the senses<br />

with specialities<br />

that include pieds<br />

et paquets (lamb<br />

parcels) and, for<br />

the brave, macaroni<br />

poutargue (pasta<br />

with fi sh eggs).<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le Clan<br />

des Cigales (8 Rue<br />

du Petit Puits, tel: 06<br />

6378 0783) Named<br />

after Provence’s<br />

famous cicadas, this<br />

laidback salon de<br />

thé is in the heart of<br />

Le Panier, the city’s<br />

oldest neighbourhood.<br />

Surrounded by art<br />

galleries and pottery<br />

shops, it also sells<br />

locally made wellpriced<br />

souvenirs.<br />

Open Sundays.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Crystal (148 Quai<br />

du Port, tel: 04 9191<br />

5796) Open until<br />

2am, this is an inviting<br />

1950s’ style, late-night<br />

cocktail bar in the<br />

Vieux Port, under<br />

the arcades of the<br />

Pouillon buildings.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Head to Les<br />

Pennes Mirabeau<br />

just outside Marseille<br />

for the Medieval<br />

Festival, a romping,<br />

ribald weekend of<br />

semi-fake battles,<br />

men in armour,<br />

women in fl owing<br />

robes, music, games,<br />

food, culture, dragon<br />

fi re and more, on<br />

20–22 May.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Raymond Blanc,<br />

in The Very Hungry<br />

Frenchman, makes<br />

his mouth-watering<br />

terrine version of the<br />

famous Marseillais<br />

Bouillabaisse fi sh<br />

soup containing<br />

shellfi sh, fi sh<br />

and vegetables.<br />

Claire McAlpine<br />

Menorca<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €50.<br />

A shuttle bus to<br />

Gare St Charles<br />

train station, leaves<br />

every 20 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €8.50.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 La Baia<br />

(Passeig Marítim,<br />

Cala Biniancolla, Sant<br />

Lluís, tel: 971 159<br />

281) Don’t be fooled<br />

by the beach-bar<br />

appearance, La Baia<br />

serves some of the<br />

best Italian pizzas on<br />

the island, cooked in<br />

a wood-fi red oven.<br />

And the sea views<br />

are fabulous.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Restaurant Acuario<br />

(Sa Plaça Na<br />

Macaret, Na Macaret,<br />

tel: 971 359 858) A<br />

friendly, family-run<br />

restaurant in a<br />

location where<br />

you’re more likely<br />

to meet locals than<br />

tourists. Great for<br />

fresh fi sh, lobster<br />

stew and paellas.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Gallery<br />

(12–13 Moll de<br />

Ponent, tel: 971 367<br />

614) A classy bar<br />

that doubles as –<br />

can you guess from<br />

the name? – an art<br />

gallery. The interior<br />

<strong>may</strong> be modern, but<br />

the menu’s still full of<br />

typical tapas and<br />

it’s a great place to<br />

linger over a drink.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Sa Clau Jazz<br />

Club (Marina 93,<br />

Ciutadella) Tucked<br />

away in a venue<br />

built out of a cave,<br />

there’s nothing<br />

neolithic about the<br />

music choice at<br />

Sa Clau, which mixes<br />

live jazz performances<br />

with a DJ. Turn up<br />

late to join a<br />

sophisticated crowd.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Get active this<br />

month and take<br />

advantage of the daily<br />

discounts on outdoor<br />

activities as part of<br />

the island’s Fiesta del<br />

Mar. Whether it be<br />

sailing, golf, diving,<br />

horse riding, biking<br />

or kayaking, there’s<br />

a cut-price sport to<br />

inspire you to get<br />

moving (menorca<br />

fi estadelmar.es).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

This month,<br />

UNESCO will name<br />

Menorca as its<br />

world headquarters<br />

for sustainable<br />

development on<br />

island and coastal<br />

Biosphere Reserves.<br />

Georgina Bromwich<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

www.marrakech-riad.co.uk


Also discover Hipark residences in Nice, Grenoble and Serris Val<br />

d’Europe (near DISNEYLAND ® PARIS - opening december 1 st <strong>2012</strong>).<br />

“The best way to buy or sell your<br />

property in Montpellier, Paris<br />

or in the south of France.”<br />

Mas Saint Côme Immobilier<br />

8 rue Saint Paul<br />

34000 MONTPELLIER<br />

Tel: +33 (0)4.67.02.78.25<br />

Mobile: +33 (0)6.76.58.37.12<br />

Fax: +33 (0)4.67.54.49.53<br />

Email: info@msc-immo.com<br />

www.msc-immo.com<br />

agence immobiliere / real estate agency<br />

MONTPELLIER - PARIS - SOUTH OF FRANCE<br />

Hipark Marseille ***<br />

21, Chemin de l’Armée d’Afrique<br />

13005 Marseille, M La Timone<br />

Tel: +33 4 96 15 58 00<br />

mail: hipark.marseille@hipark-residences.com<br />

A NEW WAY OF EXPERIENCING<br />

HOTEL RESIDENCES<br />

Located within easy reach of the Parc Chanot, the<br />

Vélodrome stadium and the town’s main centres of<br />

interest you have direct access to «Le Vieux Port» with<br />

the underground.<br />

Hipark Marseille offers 114 elegant apartments<br />

(Studios & Suites for familys).... featuring a kitchen and<br />

an office space. An exclusive range of services are<br />

included with your reservation (free internet access,<br />

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range of “à la carte” services are available at the<br />

concierge desk (massage, bikerental, baby sitting...).<br />

The choice is yours !<br />

Contact us for your next stay for a special 10% discount<br />

on the best available rate with this code: PROM<strong>2012</strong><br />

Tel. : +33 811 569 100<br />

www.hipark-residences.com


“A movie is always a trip, that leads us to a universe of places,<br />

events, emotions…” and a help to movie fans in fi nding the<br />

landscapes that gave them emotions and brought them curiosity<br />

and expectations.<br />

The Province of Como and the Chamber of Commerce of Como have<br />

published a guide book entitled The stars of Lake Como for all movie<br />

goers who are fascinated by location settings and image heritage.<br />

Lake Como has attracted movie makers, actors and scriptwriters and<br />

it will also conquer those who will reach our destinations to look for<br />

movie sets, thanks to an heritage of art, culture and traditions.<br />

For tourist information please visit www.lakecomo.com<br />

or call us on +39 031 269712 to discuss our tours!


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Milan<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir,<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Athens, Barcelona,<br />

Bari, Berlin,<br />

Bordeaux, Brindisi,<br />

Brussels, Cagliari,<br />

Casablanca, Catania,<br />

Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />

Crete (Heraklion),<br />

Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,<br />

Ibiza, Kefalonia, Kos,<br />

Lamezia, Lisbon,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Malta,<br />

Marrakech, Menorca,<br />

Mykonos, Naples,<br />

Olbia, Palermo, Paris<br />

(CDG, ORY), Porto,<br />

Prague, Rhodes,<br />

Rome, Santorini,<br />

Split, Thessaloniki,<br />

Toulouse, Zante<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

LINATE<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

ATM’s route 73<br />

connects with<br />

the metro at San<br />

Babila. Tickets: €1. The<br />

Starfl y goes to Centrale<br />

station every 30<br />

minutes from 6.10am-<br />

11.30pm. Tickets: €5.<br />

MALPENSA<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €70.<br />

The Malpensa<br />

Shuttle departs<br />

for Centrale station<br />

every 20 minutes from<br />

5.30am–1.20am. Buy<br />

onboard. Tickets: €7.50.<br />

The Malpensa<br />

Express departs<br />

for Cadorna station<br />

every 30 minutes<br />

from 5.50am–1.30am.<br />

Tickets: €11.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Solo<br />

Pizza (25 Viale<br />

Umbria) This busy<br />

pizzeria serves up the<br />

genuine thick-crust<br />

Neapolitan article as<br />

well as a range of other<br />

traditional dishes.<br />

UP TO €30 Osteria<br />

della Lanterna (3 Via<br />

Mercalli, tel: 02 5830<br />

9604) This central<br />

eatery off ers quality<br />

and value, while the<br />

menu, which includes<br />

pasta, gnocchi and<br />

meat dishes, mixes<br />

homemade cookery<br />

from the Lombardia<br />

and Friuli regions.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Cocopazzo (25 Via<br />

Durini, tel: 02 7602<br />

0823) The Tuscan<br />

specialities at this<br />

welcoming trattoria<br />

include steaks, grilled<br />

meats and fi sh dishes.<br />

The prices are low for<br />

a central location and<br />

service is swift.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Savini<br />

(5 Via Ugo Foscolo, tel:<br />

02 7200 3433) A longestablished<br />

Milanese<br />

institution, Savini is<br />

set right inside the<br />

monumental Galleria<br />

Vittorio Emanuele II,<br />

the world’s grandest<br />

shopping mall, and is<br />

an ideal place for<br />

a romantic feast.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Spazio<br />

Fitzcarraldo (41 Via<br />

Filipetti) This vaulted<br />

basement nightspot –<br />

full of huge sofas and<br />

a central bar – looks<br />

just like a fi lm set;<br />

it’s a great place to<br />

kick off the evening.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Alla<br />

Vecchia Latteria (6<br />

Via Dell’Unione) This<br />

small venue, which<br />

dates from 1885,<br />

nestles in a side street<br />

close to the Duomo.<br />

It opens Tuesdays and<br />

Thursdays for happy<br />

hours and quality<br />

live-music acts.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Shu (Via Molino delle<br />

Armi) Shu is a popular<br />

bar with unusual<br />

decor, and cut-price<br />

cocktails and food at<br />

happy hour. Later, DJs,<br />

musicians and other<br />

entertainers take over<br />

until late.<br />

ACCA PALACE<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Its outer-city locale<br />

makes this a quiet<br />

getaway for families.<br />

The breakfast is<br />

raved about and<br />

rooms are spacious.<br />

From €75, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Treat yourself<br />

to some of the<br />

excellent pastries and<br />

cakes at Pasticceria<br />

Castelnuovo (18 Via<br />

dei Tulipani). A slice of<br />

an age-old tradition,<br />

these delicacies have<br />

won awards.<br />

SEE The Pinacoteca<br />

Ambrosiana is a<br />

fantastic art museum.<br />

Aside from the<br />

permanent collection<br />

by painters such<br />

as Caravaggio and<br />

Raphael, the library<br />

contains panels by<br />

Leonardo da Vinci (2<br />

Piazza Pio XI).<br />

GO Art on the<br />

Naviglio is a festival<br />

held annually in<br />

May, which today<br />

showcases the work<br />

of more than 300<br />

artists from across<br />

Italy. Held along the<br />

route of one of the<br />

ancient canals, the<br />

exhibition threads<br />

between Viale Gorizia<br />

and Via Casale.<br />

ESCAPE Lake<br />

Maggiore is the largest<br />

and most impressive<br />

of the Italian lakes,<br />

and, at around 100km<br />

from Milan, it’s easily<br />

reached by train.<br />

Stop for a meal in the<br />

picturesque lakeside<br />

towns of Stresa,<br />

Verbania or Baveno.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In 2009 Milan had<br />

1.89 million visitors,<br />

well in excess of its<br />

population of just over<br />

1.3 million. It’s the<br />

63rd most-visited city<br />

in the world.<br />

Charles Searson<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 159<br />

Montpellier<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London<br />

(LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Take the shuttle<br />

bus to Place<br />

de l’Europe. Tickets:<br />

€1.50 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Tonus<br />

Fresh Kitchen (1 Rue<br />

de Chio, tel: 04 6754<br />

2805) Compose your<br />

own main-course<br />

salad at this canteenstyle<br />

restaurant for<br />

just a few euros. The<br />

mountains of leaves,<br />

veg and pasta should<br />

be accopanied by one<br />

of the delicious fresh<br />

juices, frozen yohurts<br />

and homemade<br />

desserts on off er.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Villa di Condra (67<br />

Avenue d’Assas, tel:<br />

04 6784 0664) You’ll<br />

need to book a table<br />

at this restaurant<br />

in a stunning town<br />

house. Once you’re<br />

there, discuss the<br />

menu with the<br />

Italian-infl uenced<br />

chef, and enjoy your<br />

meal on the terrace<br />

or the verandah.<br />

The tiramasu is<br />

legendary.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Baraka Jeux (7<br />

Allée d’Ulysse, tel:<br />

04 6792 9628) Make<br />

new friends on a rainy<br />

day hanging out here<br />

and playing board<br />

games, billiards,<br />

video games and<br />

watching sporting<br />

events on TV. The<br />

ambience is super<br />

relaxed and friendly.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Scarabee (9<br />

Rue en Gondeau,<br />

tel: 04 3426 5819)<br />

All painted red,<br />

this is a dirt-cheap<br />

student hangout<br />

where the patrons<br />

are encouraged to<br />

grafi tti the walls with<br />

drawings of their<br />

favourite musicians.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The (for)ever<br />

popular Johnny<br />

Hallyday will pack the<br />

Arena on 14, 15 and<br />

17 May. Otherwise,<br />

head for the Festival<br />

Arabesques, which<br />

celebrates the culture<br />

of the Arab world,<br />

from 21-27 May.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Tambourin isn’t a<br />

musical instrument, it’s<br />

a local sport in which a<br />

ball has to be hit with<br />

a circular disc – not<br />

unlike a tambourine!<br />

Samantha David


160 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Munich<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Edinburgh,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €60.<br />

The S1 and S8<br />

lines run from<br />

4.30am to midnight.<br />

Tickets: €10 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Big Easy (46<br />

Frundsbergstrasse,<br />

tel: 089 1589 0253)<br />

This New Orleansstyle<br />

bar is a popular<br />

spot thanks to its<br />

great Cajun food and<br />

delicious cocktails. Try<br />

the legendary Deep-<br />

South-style Sunday<br />

jazz brunch.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Acetaia (215<br />

Nymphenburger<br />

Strasse, tel: 089 1392<br />

9077) The upmarket<br />

Italian menu at this<br />

restaurant is based<br />

around the exquisite<br />

house balsamic<br />

vinegar. There’s also<br />

a lovely garden.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Maria<br />

Passagne (42<br />

Steinstrasse, tel: 089<br />

486 167) You’ll have<br />

to look hard to fi nd<br />

it – there’s no sign,<br />

just a bell on a plain<br />

door. Add some good<br />

music, extensive<br />

cocktail list and a<br />

selection of Japanese<br />

snacks, and you’re in<br />

for a chilled night out.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Cord (18<br />

Sonnenstrasse, tel:<br />

089 5521 3898) The<br />

panoramic dancefl oor<br />

pulls the crowds every<br />

night of the week.<br />

Music ranges from<br />

1960s swing to Britpop<br />

and classic disco.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Get yourself in<br />

the Olympic spirit<br />

by visiting Munich’s<br />

Olympic Park, built<br />

for the 1972 Games.<br />

The daring <strong>may</strong> like to<br />

attempt a roped tour of<br />

the sweeping rooftops.<br />

And, from 16–19 May,<br />

the venue hosts the<br />

UEFA Champions<br />

Festival – a four-day<br />

football party to mark<br />

the Champions League<br />

fi nal held in the city.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

During your visit to<br />

Munich, you <strong>may</strong><br />

notice the numerous<br />

“May trees” towering<br />

above the ground. It is<br />

traditional in the region<br />

to erect a tree during<br />

the night before 1 May<br />

– with communities<br />

competing to see<br />

whose is the highest.<br />

Jill Henne<br />

Murcia<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

around €45 to Murcia<br />

and €35 to Torrevieja.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Aires<br />

de Murcia (25 Calle<br />

Simón García, tel:<br />

968 210 477) Near<br />

the cathedral, Aires<br />

de Murcia off ers<br />

everything from a<br />

quick tapa at the bar<br />

to a full sit-down meal.<br />

The Jumilla wines from<br />

the Murcia region are<br />

defi nitely worth trying.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Amapola (Hyatt<br />

Regency Hotel, La<br />

Manga Club, La Manga,<br />

tel: 968 331 260) A<br />

plush restaurant in<br />

the fi ve-star Hyatt,<br />

with a top chef and<br />

fantastic service to<br />

match. Amapola has<br />

exquisite seafood from<br />

the Mar Menor and<br />

rich ox meat from the<br />

Sierra de Guadarrama.<br />

Expect inventive<br />

cuisine and excellent<br />

presentation.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Abu<br />

Nuwas (8 Calle<br />

Ruipérez, tel: 968 222<br />

042) A Moroccan tea<br />

shop with more than<br />

150 teas on off er, plus<br />

funky decoration<br />

and an authentic<br />

Arabic experience.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

DNC Dance Club<br />

(Puerta Nueva, Edifi cio<br />

Centrofama) A trendy<br />

club in the university<br />

quarter, DNC plays a<br />

wide variety of music,<br />

ranging from Spanish<br />

pop to house and<br />

international tunes.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Torrevieja’s<br />

May Fair is a fi ve-day<br />

celebration of<br />

Andalusian culture<br />

that includes<br />

fl amenco dancing<br />

and music, horse<br />

shows and fantastic<br />

food. Situated in the<br />

harbour, the tented<br />

village attracts tens of<br />

thousands of visitors.<br />

It takes place in the<br />

second week of May,<br />

with this year’s dates<br />

still to be confi rmed at<br />

time of going to press.<br />

(More information<br />

at torrevieja.es).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

A griff on vulture<br />

has been released<br />

back into the wild<br />

after recovering for<br />

six weeks at El Valle<br />

veterinary centre for<br />

wild animals in Murcia.<br />

David Jones<br />

Mykonos<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Geneva,<br />

London (LGW), Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (ORY),<br />

Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Mykonos<br />

Town is €10.<br />

Catch the bus to<br />

Fabrika on the<br />

outskirts of Mykonos.<br />

Tickets: single €1.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 To<br />

Maereio (16 Kalogera)<br />

For authentic Greek<br />

home-cooking, try<br />

this tiny, family-run<br />

eatery that’s popular<br />

with locals. Favourite<br />

dishes include the<br />

kolokithokeftedes<br />

(courgette fritters).<br />

EXCLUSIVE Avra<br />

(27 Kalogera, tel:<br />

22890 22298) In a<br />

romantic, whitewashed<br />

courtyard<br />

garden, draped<br />

with pink-and-white<br />

bougainvillea, Avra<br />

serves Greek cuisine<br />

and a select choice of<br />

Mediterranean dishes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Galleraki<br />

Bar (Little Venice,<br />

Mykonos Town, tel:<br />

22890 27188) Come<br />

here for a sunset drink<br />

like house speciality,<br />

the “Katerinaki”. Great<br />

chill-out music too.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Rock’n’Roll Mykonos<br />

(Agias Kiriakis Square,<br />

tel: 69866 26646)<br />

Reopening for summer<br />

this month, this is the<br />

sister of top Athens<br />

club Rock’n’Roll.<br />

Much loved by hip and<br />

glamorous Athenians,<br />

it warms up late and<br />

plays till sunrise.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Combine culture<br />

with relaxation and<br />

take a boat ride to the<br />

nearby islet of Delos.<br />

It’s home to UNESCOlisted<br />

archaeological<br />

site, fi lled with<br />

ancient temples.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Sanctuary of<br />

Dionysus is known for<br />

its stone phalluses.<br />

Jane Foster<br />

AKROTIRAKI<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

A pretty B&B in<br />

Mykonos’ next-door<br />

settlement of<br />

Cyclades. Its Greek<br />

architecture is crisp<br />

and clean. From<br />

€46, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Nantes<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London<br />

(LGW), Lyon, Nice,<br />

Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The Tan Air<br />

shuttle bus<br />

runs to Nantes South<br />

SNCF train station,<br />

Cité des Congrès<br />

and the town centre.<br />

Tickets: €7<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le Clan<br />

des Nanas (32 Rue<br />

des Hauts Pavés, tel:<br />

02 4020 8998) This<br />

is a great little place<br />

serving traditional<br />

nostalgic recipes with<br />

a modern twist. The<br />

courgette bake is<br />

yummy, and don’t miss<br />

the cherry crumble.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

L’Abelia (125<br />

Boulevard des Poilus,<br />

tel: 02 4035 4000)<br />

An enchanted garden,<br />

a cobbled courtyard,<br />

magical decor and<br />

divine cuisine make<br />

this a real oasis. Try<br />

the millefeuille of<br />

beetroot, avocado<br />

mousse, aubergine<br />

caviar, sauté of veal or<br />

pears in cassis.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Le Pickwick’s (3<br />

Rue Rameau, tel:<br />

02 4073 1362) This<br />

bar is all done out in<br />

orange and red, with<br />

quirky furniture, a<br />

circular bar and lots<br />

of little hideaways and<br />

cubbyholes leading<br />

off the main bar,<br />

making it perfect for<br />

an early evening chillout<br />

session.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

El Momento (1 Rue<br />

Kervegan, tel: 02 2808<br />

9366) The DJs here<br />

preside over theme<br />

nights, including house,<br />

electro and salsa<br />

music. There are also<br />

dancing displays from<br />

time to time. Try the<br />

fl avoured rums, and<br />

<strong>may</strong>be a plate of tapas.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Cinépride<br />

runs from 11-17 May,<br />

showcasing gay<br />

cinema from around<br />

the world. Films<br />

range from comedy<br />

to drama and include<br />

documentaries and<br />

fi rst-person diaries<br />

(katorza.fr).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Because of its<br />

multitude of<br />

waterways, Nantes’<br />

most common<br />

nickname is “The<br />

Venice of the West”.<br />

Samantha David<br />

Naples<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Bristol,<br />

Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />

Ibiza, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Milan (MXP), Nice,<br />

Paris (ORY), Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

The Alibus stops<br />

at the train<br />

station and Piazza<br />

Municipio. Tickets: €4.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 A<br />

Taverna do’ Re (2–3<br />

Fondo Supportico<br />

di Separazione, tel:<br />

081 552 2424) This<br />

osteria is just by the<br />

Castel Nuovo and<br />

the Beverello pier.<br />

The house specialty,<br />

Paccheri do Re,<br />

features pasta and<br />

fresh seafood.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Coco<br />

Loco (31 Piazza<br />

Rodino, tel: 081 415<br />

482) Coco Loco has<br />

excellent wines, fresh<br />

seafood and traditional<br />

Neapolitan dishes<br />

infused with chef Diego<br />

Nuzzo’s creative fl air.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Berevino<br />

(62 Via San Sebastiano,<br />

tel: 081 290 313) The<br />

name means “drink<br />

wine,” which is exactly<br />

what you should do at<br />

this friendly, little<br />

bar in the Chiaia<br />

shopping district.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

White Bar (3B Vico<br />

Satriano) Don’t be<br />

intimidated by the<br />

stark, white decor.<br />

This trendy disco is<br />

a friendly place for<br />

late-night fun.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Faithful Catholics<br />

crowd Naples on the<br />

fi rst Sunday in May<br />

to see if blood from<br />

the city’s patron saint,<br />

San Gennaro, liquefi es<br />

during a special<br />

ceremony. It nearly<br />

always does, which is<br />

said to bring luck.<br />

Tui Cameron<br />

VISIT FOR FREE<br />

SEE Each May in<br />

Naples, admission<br />

to many historical<br />

sites is free, as<br />

are guided tours,<br />

special exhibits and<br />

concerts. For details,<br />

look for Maggio<br />

dei Monumenti.<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 161<br />

Newcastle<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Barcelona, Belfast<br />

(BFS), Bristol, Faro,<br />

Geneva, Ibiza, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Malta, Menorca,<br />

Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £18.<br />

The Metro<br />

goes to the city<br />

centre. Tickets: £2.70.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Thali<br />

(44 Dean Street,<br />

tel: 0191 230 2244)<br />

Thali is a throwback<br />

to those old Indian<br />

restaurants where the<br />

decor takes second<br />

place to the food. The<br />

food is sensational and<br />

Thali, which has been<br />

around for a few years<br />

now, continues to<br />

prove a big draw in the<br />

city. The chilli chingri<br />

masala with super king<br />

prawns is top of the<br />

menu favourites.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Black<br />

Horse Beamish<br />

(Red Row, Beamish,<br />

tel: 01207 232 569)<br />

This 300-year-old<br />

pub set in the idyllic<br />

Beamish conservation<br />

valley serves food<br />

as fantastic as the<br />

views. What’s more, it<br />

has four hectares of<br />

gardens and orchards<br />

supplying organic<br />

vegetables, free-range<br />

poultry and linecaught<br />

fi sh.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

Waterline (96<br />

Quayside, tel: 0191<br />

2305531) Once one<br />

of the liveliest bars<br />

on the Quayside, The<br />

Waterline has now<br />

grown up into a more<br />

sedate and inviting<br />

watering hole on the<br />

banks of the Tyne<br />

where people relax<br />

for a drink.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Florita’s (28–32<br />

Collingwood Street,<br />

tel: 0191 230 4114)<br />

Decked out in the<br />

style of a Miami<br />

tropical garden, with<br />

palm trees and bright<br />

colours throughout,<br />

this is a bar for the<br />

fun-loving crowd.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Less than half an<br />

hour from Newcastle<br />

lies the extraordinary<br />

Victorian house,<br />

gardens and woodland<br />

of Cragside. Home<br />

to Victorian inventor<br />

and landscaper, Lord<br />

Armstrong, Cragside<br />

House was the fi rst<br />

to be lit by hydroelectricity.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Newcastle was the<br />

fi rst coal port in the<br />

world, back in 1239.<br />

Michelle Ord<br />

MILANO<br />

PIAZZA SAN BABILA 3 - TEL. +39 02 76000366<br />

.<br />

10 NEGOZI IN CITTA’<br />

www.boggi.com - shop.boggi.com


162 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Nice<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Barcelona,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />

Bordeaux, Bristol,<br />

Brussels, Edinburgh,<br />

Geneva, Lille, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

STN), Lyon, Nantes,<br />

Naples, Newcastle,<br />

Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />

Rome, Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

Bus 98 stops at<br />

Nice’s Old Town<br />

and the Gare Routière.<br />

Tickets: €4.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Café<br />

de la Poste (24 Rue<br />

Saint-Sébastien, Biot,<br />

tel: 04 9365 1932)<br />

When visiting this<br />

village, which is known<br />

for its pottery and<br />

blown glass, take a<br />

break at this historic<br />

café and sample the<br />

varied delights of<br />

tapas, sushi, chicken,<br />

salads and pizzas.<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Taca d’Oli (35 Rue<br />

<br />

inor onouinhooo<br />

www.mougins-school.com<br />

Pairolière, tel: 04 9380<br />

7093) Small enough<br />

to miss, La Taca<br />

serves unpretentious,<br />

home-style French<br />

cuisine. Its two set<br />

menus include options<br />

such as artichoke<br />

mousse, red mullet and<br />

an exceptionally tasty<br />

salade Niçoise.<br />

UP TO €50 La<br />

Brouette de Grand<br />

Mère (9 Rue Oran,<br />

Cannes, tel: 04 9339<br />

1210) An art-deco-style<br />

French bistro with a<br />

set menu off ering a<br />

choice of main course<br />

and dessert, including<br />

champagne aperitif<br />

and wine. The à-lacarte<br />

menu features<br />

traditional, homecooked<br />

French cuisine,<br />

with the pot-au-feu<br />

(meat and potato<br />

stew) a highlight.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Mère Germaine (Quai<br />

Courbet, Villefranchesur-Mer,<br />

tel: 04 9301<br />

7139) With views over<br />

exclusive Cap Ferrat,<br />

La Mère Germaine has<br />

been serving up both<br />

classic and creative<br />

seafood dishes – think<br />

scallop carpaccio with<br />

truffl e oil, or shrimp<br />

tempura – since<br />

Germaine herself<br />

provided the US Navy<br />

with sustenance<br />

during the 1950s.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Blue Gin<br />

Bar (Monte-Carlo Bay<br />

Hotel, Monaco, tel: 377<br />

9806 2525) A drink<br />

in this spacious bar,<br />

with a decor recalling<br />

great trans-Atlantic<br />

liners, provides the<br />

chance to discover<br />

this magnifi cent hotel<br />

with its unique indoor<br />

lagoon-pool. Admire<br />

the panoramic sea<br />

view or relax with a<br />

game of billiards.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Le<br />

Ketje (15 Rue Auguste-<br />

Gal, tel: 04 9353 0529)<br />

For beer-lovers, Le<br />

Ketje has a long zinc<br />

bar, cosy lounge and<br />

bistro tables on the<br />

terrace. There is live<br />

music on Thursdays<br />

and regular screenings<br />

of football matches.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Chokko (15 Rue des<br />

Frères Pradignac,<br />

Cannes, tel: 04 9339<br />

6270) Off the ohso-chic<br />

La Croisette,<br />

Chokko’s lavish decor<br />

and international DJs<br />

attract a trendy crowd<br />

of late-night revellers.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Combine<br />

window shopping<br />

with star spotting<br />

around Monaco’s<br />

Golden Circle, which<br />

LE ROYAL<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Smack bang in the<br />

centre of the city,<br />

there’s no better<br />

placed hotel for<br />

the promenades<br />

and beaches.<br />

From €128, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

hosts all the luxury<br />

labels and <strong>may</strong> also<br />

provide the chance<br />

to bump into famous<br />

faces. More aff ordable<br />

options can be found<br />

at Condamine market,<br />

with its tiny boutiques<br />

and shops.<br />

SEE Don’t miss the<br />

Asian Arts Museum’s<br />

exhibition on the<br />

Children of China:<br />

Little Tigers, Young<br />

Dragons. Running<br />

until 14 May, the works<br />

evoke the diff erent<br />

stages in children’s<br />

lives (405 Promenade<br />

des Anglais).<br />

GO Head over to the<br />

world’s glitziest fi lm<br />

festival as Hollywood<br />

arrives in Cannes for<br />

the 64th International<br />

Film Festival (16–27<br />

May). La Croisette<br />

swarms with paparazzi<br />

and fans, and you can’t<br />

help but get swept<br />

up in the frenzy. Be<br />

patient (and early)<br />

if you want to see the<br />

stars on the red carpet.<br />

ESCAPE The<br />

medieval village of<br />

Eze provides a place<br />

to unwind in historic,<br />

natural surroundings.<br />

The village is rich in<br />

history; if old ruins<br />

are your thing, you’ll<br />

love exploring the<br />

Jardin Exotique in the<br />

remains of a fortress.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Villefranche-sur-Mer<br />

formed the backdrop<br />

for several classic<br />

movies, including Dirty<br />

Rotten Scoundrels,<br />

Ronin and Never Say<br />

Never Again.<br />

John Brown<br />

Olbia<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €15.<br />

The Linea<br />

Urbana bus<br />

goes to Olbia every 30<br />

minutes. Tickets: €1.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Palma (387 Via Aldo<br />

Moro, tel: 0789 51549)<br />

For three decades, this<br />

home-style restaurant<br />

has been a popular<br />

choice. Fresh fi sh dishes<br />

are always a winner,<br />

as are the sensational<br />

homemade desserts.<br />

Sit inside or outside<br />

on the verandah and<br />

choose from local and<br />

national wines.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Nino’s Restaurant<br />

(Hotel Stefania, 8 Via<br />

Bora, Pittulongu, tel:<br />

0789 39027) Rich,<br />

regional cooking and<br />

fi ne seafood, such<br />

as lobster, sautéed<br />

mussels and clams,<br />

and fresh fi sh with<br />

vernaccia wine sauce,<br />

are among the house<br />

specialities at this<br />

nook in the grounds<br />

of Hotel Stefania, with<br />

views over the bay.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Night<br />

Market (Corso<br />

Umberto) This road<br />

turns into a bustling<br />

street market from<br />

7pm, where you can<br />

enjoy the traditional<br />

passeggiata (evening<br />

stroll) and pick up<br />

something to eat<br />

and drink.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

La Tasca (3 Via<br />

Cavour) Have a meal<br />

and then enjoy live<br />

music or breezy<br />

lounge tunes with<br />

Olbia’s cool crowd at<br />

this café-come-wineand-cocktail<br />

bar in the<br />

city centre.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The surrounding<br />

areas of Olbia include<br />

Porto Rotondo, Porto<br />

Cervo and the Costa<br />

Smeralda, popular<br />

with jetsetters and<br />

yacht owners. For<br />

high-class shopping,<br />

trendy restaurants and<br />

bars, with spectacular<br />

scenery, these are the<br />

towns to go to.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The dialect spoken<br />

in Olbia is known as<br />

Gallurese, considered<br />

a transitional language<br />

between Corsican<br />

and Sardinian.<br />

Katy Gillett<br />

Prepare for tomorrow’s world<br />

<br />

Unique on the Côte d’Azur, Mougins School o er ri h<br />

edu on to tudent ed in n intern on enironent


An emotional experience<br />

www.sorrento-coast.it


164 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Palermo<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Milan (MXP),<br />

Paris (ORY), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €50.<br />

The Trinacria<br />

Express arrives at<br />

Palermo Notarbartolo.<br />

Tickets: €5.80.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Il Pompiere (107 Via<br />

Bara all’Olivella, tel: 388<br />

695 9589) In business<br />

for over 30 years,<br />

this rustic trattoria<br />

has been serving up<br />

homestyle cooking to<br />

faithful clientele who<br />

devour their charcoalgrilled<br />

main courses. Il<br />

Pompiere also serves<br />

pizza, baked in its<br />

wood-fi red oven, at<br />

lunchtime: a rarity in<br />

Palermo.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Donna<br />

Ina (118 Via Messina<br />

Marine) Occupying<br />

a turn-of-the-20thcentury<br />

bathhouse<br />

right on the sea,<br />

restaurateurs Mimmo<br />

and Carmen serve<br />

classic Sicilian<br />

favourites with a<br />

new twist. Fish tops<br />

the menu here but<br />

there are options for<br />

carnivores as well.<br />

Don’t miss the bigoli in<br />

sea-urchin sauce.<br />

There’s a formidable<br />

wine-list too.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Pasticceria Cappello<br />

(10 Via N Garzilli, tel:<br />

091 611 3769) The<br />

rich, creamy<br />

cappuccinos are true<br />

works of art, but don’t<br />

ask for the recipes of<br />

the mouth-watering<br />

cakes and chocolates<br />

– they have been<br />

closely guarded<br />

secrets for decades.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

L’Atelier (Via Michele<br />

Miraglia, tel: 091 976<br />

7051) Housed in a<br />

restored 16th-century<br />

warehouse steps away<br />

from the port, this<br />

eclectic nightspot is<br />

the perfect place to<br />

start off with cocktails<br />

and fi nish off the<br />

evening with live music.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Palermo Apre<br />

Le Porte – during<br />

weekends in May,<br />

several monuments<br />

are “adopted” by local<br />

schoolchildren who<br />

are all too eager to<br />

show visitors around.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Despite being the<br />

capital of the island<br />

and a city where<br />

intellectuals convened,<br />

Palermo did not have a<br />

proper university<br />

until 1805.<br />

Conchita Vecchio<br />

Paris<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir, Athens,<br />

Biarritz, Belfast (BFS),<br />

Berlin, Bologna, Brest,<br />

Brindisi, Bristol,<br />

Budapest, Cagliari,<br />

Casablanca, Catania,<br />

Copenhagen, Corsica<br />

(Ajaccio), Corsica<br />

(Bastia), Crete<br />

(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro, Fez,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow,<br />

Ibiza, Krakow, Lamezia,<br />

Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

Ljubljana, London<br />

(LTN), Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Marrakech,<br />

Menorca, Milan (MXP,<br />

LIN), Mykonos, Naples,<br />

Newcastle, Nice, Olbia,<br />

Palermo, Pisa, Porto,<br />

Prague, Rhodes, Rome<br />

(FCO), Split, Tangier,<br />

Thessaloniki, Toulouse,<br />

Venice, Verona, Zagreb<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

ORLY<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

The Orly bus<br />

stops at Place<br />

Denfert-Rochereau<br />

from 5.45am–11.30pm.<br />

Tickets: €6.80.<br />

CHARLES DE<br />

GAULLE<br />

TAXI<br />

RENTAPART.COM<br />

Champs Elysées<br />

Opéra<br />

Marais<br />

Trocadéro<br />

Saint Germain des Prés<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com<br />

A local taxi costs €45.<br />

Take the RER<br />

B3 – trains leave<br />

every 15 minutes from<br />

5.25am to midnight.<br />

Tickets: €9.40.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Salle<br />

à Manger (26 Place<br />

Dauphine, tel: 01<br />

4329 5234) A tiny,<br />

family-run bistro<br />

just off the quiet<br />

Place Dauphine, this<br />

place serves French<br />

classics like boeuf<br />

Bourguignon. Try and<br />

get one of the few<br />

tables outside if the<br />

weather is nice.<br />

UP TO €30 Glou<br />

(101 Rue Vieille du<br />

Temple, tel: 01 4274<br />

4432) A trendy neobistro<br />

overlooking the<br />

gardens of the Picasso<br />

Museum, specialising<br />

in organic, free-range<br />

fi sh, meats and<br />

vegetables. There’s<br />

one table d’hôte, and<br />

a good selection of<br />

wines. Lunch is more<br />

casual, while dinner<br />

attracts the hip Marais<br />

crowd.<br />

UP TO €50 La<br />

Régalade Saint-<br />

Honoré (123 rue<br />

Saint-Honoré, tel:<br />

01 4221 9240) Chic<br />

and modern, this<br />

unpretentious bistro<br />

serves up fresh,<br />

fl avourful French<br />

cuisine, skillfully<br />

cooked and served<br />

without unnecessary<br />

fanfare. On the menu<br />

are organic game,<br />

chicken, steaks,<br />

stews, fi sh, seasonal<br />

asparagus and spring<br />

vegetables. Be sure<br />

Minimum 3 nights<br />

Online booking<br />

Good value<br />

Comfort<br />

Privacy<br />

to order one of the<br />

superb dessert<br />

souffl és. It’s closed<br />

at weekends; for the<br />

rest of the time be<br />

sure to book at least<br />

a week in advance.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Jardin des Cygnes<br />

(Prince de Galles<br />

Hotel, 33 Avenue<br />

George V, 8th, tel: 01<br />

5323 7850) Escape<br />

the tired formula of<br />

exposed stone walls<br />

and wooden-beamed<br />

ceilings at this<br />

elegant restaurant<br />

with Mediterraneaninspired<br />

decor,<br />

hand-painted frescos<br />

and immense fl oorto-ceiling<br />

windows<br />

overlooking the<br />

intricate mosaic<br />

tiling of the courtyard<br />

garden. The fi ne<br />

French cuisine has<br />

a southern fl avour,<br />

which attracts<br />

a luxury hotel<br />

clientele, as well as<br />

the impeccablydressed<br />

locals of<br />

the ritzy Golden<br />

HOTEL<br />

DOUGLAS<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Modest and modern<br />

in the city of lights,<br />

close to the Champs<br />

Elysées, the Hotel<br />

Douglas prides itself<br />

in its rustic charm.<br />

From €78, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com<br />

Triangle district.<br />

Sunday brunches are<br />

accompanied by<br />

a jazz pianist.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar<br />

du Closerie des<br />

Lilas (171 Boulevard<br />

Montparnasse, 6th,<br />

tel: 01 4051 3450)<br />

The historic piano<br />

bar at the Closerie<br />

des Lilas has the<br />

plaques of all of the<br />

great writers and<br />

artists of the 1920s<br />

who hung out there,<br />

including Hemingway<br />

and Beckett. The<br />

crowd is a mix of all<br />

ages, formal and<br />

casually dressed,<br />

enjoying cocktails and<br />

snacks in the low-lit<br />

ambience.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Le<br />

Bus Palladium (6<br />

Rue Fontaine, tel:<br />

01 4526 8035) This<br />

legendary Pigalle<br />

rock club from the<br />

1960s reopened in<br />

2010 with a very<br />

laidback crowd,<br />

beer in plastic<br />

cups, live bands,<br />

and excellent DJs.<br />

For regular special<br />

events, register on<br />

their website for free<br />

invitations.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Showcase (Pont<br />

Alexandre III, tel:<br />

01 4561 2543) This<br />

vast nightclub, built<br />

under the stone-andiron<br />

arches of the<br />

Alexandre III bridge,<br />

is open every Friday<br />

and Saturday from<br />

10pm until late. Live<br />

bands are followed by<br />

DJs on the decks.<br />

Your apartment in Paris<br />

Rentapart.com<br />

97 ave des Champs Elysées<br />

75008 Paris<br />

+ 33 (0)1 56 89 31 00


© Bal du Moulin Rouge <strong>2012</strong> - Moulin Rouge ® - 1-1028499<br />

DISCOVER “FÉERIE”,<br />

THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !<br />

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM 175€ • SHOW AT 9PM AND 11PM : 105€<br />

Montmartre - 82, Boulevard de Clichy - 75018 Paris<br />

Reservations : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - www.moulin-rouge.com


166 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Paris<br />

France<br />

The location, just<br />

off the Champs-<br />

Elysées, attracts<br />

young trendsetters.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Looking<br />

for unique gifts<br />

and objects for the<br />

home? Storie (20<br />

Rue Delambre, 14th,<br />

tel: 01 8356 0198,<br />

storieblog.com) is an<br />

independently-owned<br />

boutique where<br />

each of the unique,<br />

handmade objects<br />

has a story. Find<br />

whimsical<br />

and charming<br />

artworks, clothing,<br />

jewelry, home decor<br />

and toys.<br />

SEE Don’t miss<br />

“Artemisia: Power,<br />

Glory and Passions<br />

of a Female Painter”<br />

this month at the<br />

Musée Maillol (61<br />

rue de Grenelle, 7th,<br />

museemaillol.com).<br />

Artemisia Gentileschi<br />

was a 16th-century<br />

painter who worked<br />

for the princes and<br />

cardinals of Rome,<br />

but, like Caravaggio,<br />

wasn’t recognised<br />

and appreciated until<br />

three centuries later.<br />

Open daily 10.30am-<br />

7pm, Fridays until<br />

9.30pm, entry €11.<br />

GO The Golden<br />

Triangle is the<br />

luxury shopping and<br />

business district<br />

made up of the<br />

Avenue George V, the<br />

Avenue Montaigne<br />

and the Avenue des<br />

Champs-Elysées. Fine<br />

dining, nightclubs,<br />

cinemas and top<br />

couture brands such<br />

as Louis Vuitton,<br />

Gucci, Yves Saint<br />

Laurent, Hermès,<br />

Prada and Harry<br />

Winston make it one<br />

of the most popular<br />

areas of Paris.<br />

ESCAPE The<br />

elegant seaside town<br />

of Deauville, just two<br />

hours’ drive west of<br />

Paris, is north-west<br />

France’s version of<br />

Cannes, attracting<br />

paparazzi and stars<br />

from around the<br />

world. Pack your<br />

sunglasses and be<br />

sure to book a hotel<br />

well in advance<br />

unless you plan on<br />

sleeping in your<br />

sandcastle. For<br />

information, contact<br />

the Deauville Tourism<br />

Offi ce (Place de la<br />

Mairie, Deauville,<br />

14804, tel: 02 3114<br />

4000, deauville.org).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In 1605, Henri IV<br />

originally built the<br />

Place des Vosges<br />

(then known as<br />

Place Royale) in the<br />

Marais to house his<br />

newly-created French<br />

silk manufacture.<br />

But the Parisian<br />

weather proved<br />

inhospitable, and<br />

they set up in Lyon<br />

instead, where French<br />

silk is made to this<br />

day. The Place des<br />

Vosges then became<br />

a chic residence<br />

for French aristocrats<br />

including Madame<br />

de Sévigny.<br />

Heather Stimmler-Hall<br />

Pisa<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Bristol,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

agence immobiliere / real estate agency<br />

www.msc-immo.com<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €7.<br />

CPT buses go to<br />

the centre. Route<br />

3 stops at Pisa Central<br />

station. Tickets: €0.80.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Gino<br />

(2 Via delle Curzolari,<br />

Marina di Pisa, tel: 050<br />

35408) A simple yet<br />

elegant restaurant that<br />

off ers a fi sh-based<br />

menu. The tacconi<br />

(pasta) with cuttlefi sh<br />

and artichokes is<br />

worth trying, as are the<br />

steamed calamari with<br />

pine nuts and rocket.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Scaletta (107 Via<br />

Pietrasantina, tel: 050<br />

562269) You’ll fi nd<br />

this airy and elegant<br />

restaurant with blue<br />

chairs and yellow<br />

tablecloths near the<br />

Duomo. The menu<br />

constantly changes,<br />

but it is always refi ned.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Almatea<br />

Café (Lungarno<br />

Mediceo) Catch the<br />

aperitif hour starting<br />

at 6.30pm for a drink<br />

with a selection of<br />

hors d’oeuvres, then<br />

linger for dinner and<br />

listen to the jukebox<br />

playing hits from the<br />

1950s and 1960s.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Dress Code (175 Viale<br />

di Gello, Ponsacco)<br />

Dress Code off ers<br />

electronic and<br />

progressive music to<br />

late-night revellers<br />

from all over the<br />

peninsula. The club is<br />

just a short taxi ride<br />

away from Pisa.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Art enthusiasts<br />

can catch the modern<br />

art of HW Marius<br />

Bauer and Karien<br />

Heijtlager at Centro<br />

Arte Moderna, running<br />

until the end of May.<br />

Lovers of strawberries<br />

(and who isn’t?), don’t<br />

miss the strawberry<br />

delights in fresh<br />

or dessert form at<br />

the free Strawberry<br />

Festival at Terricciola,<br />

not far from Pisa,<br />

12–27 May (26<br />

Lungarno Mediceo,<br />

tel: 050 542630).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

It was the poet and<br />

novelist Gabriele<br />

D’Annunzio who<br />

christened the<br />

monumental complex<br />

of Piazza Duomo, the<br />

“Field of Miracles”, in<br />

his 1910 novel Forse<br />

che sì forse che no.<br />

Silvia Falsaperla<br />

Porto<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London<br />

(LGW), Lyon, Paris<br />

(CDG), Milan<br />

(MXP), Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Metro trains take<br />

you to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €1.75.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Restaurante<br />

Pombeiro (218 Rua do<br />

Capitão Pombeiro, tel:<br />

22 509 7446) Awardwinning,<br />

family-run and<br />

very friendly restaurant<br />

well off the tourist path.<br />

Try the Porto-style tripe<br />

or any of the delicious<br />

fi sh or meat dishes.<br />

German beer on tap.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Escondidinho (144<br />

Rua Passos Manuel,<br />

tel: 22 200 1079)<br />

Escondidinho off ers a<br />

rich variety of dishes<br />

in a warm and rustic<br />

atmosphere. The King<br />

of Spain and his family<br />

have dined here.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Brasileira (75 Rua de<br />

Sá da Bandeira, tel: 22<br />

200 7146) Housed in a<br />

beautiful art-nouveau<br />

building dating from<br />

1903, this landmark is<br />

well worth a visit.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Clube 3 C (18 Rua<br />

Candido dos Reis,<br />

tel: 22 201 8247)<br />

Not just a club, but a<br />

restaurant and bar as<br />

well, with DJs, live jazz<br />

and much more in a<br />

beautifully restored<br />

downtown building.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The Portuguese<br />

Photography Museum<br />

in Porto (housed in a<br />

former prison) off ers a<br />

fascinating exhibition<br />

on the women in the<br />

life of Camilo Castelo<br />

Branco throughout<br />

May (Campo Mártires<br />

da Pátria, tel: 22 207<br />

6310, cpf.pt).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

An old British naval<br />

tradition exists for port<br />

wine. A decanter is<br />

placed in front of the<br />

host, who serves the<br />

guest to his right and<br />

passes it to his left.<br />

The decanter goes<br />

around the table to the<br />

left until it is empty.<br />

Should it stop, the host<br />

asks the individual<br />

nearest the decanter<br />

if he knows the Bishop<br />

of Norwich. When this<br />

individual replies no,<br />

the host says: “He’s<br />

a terribly nice chap,<br />

but he never passed<br />

the port.”<br />

Joseph Guerra<br />

MONTPELLIER - PARIS<br />

- SOUTH OF FRANCE<br />

“The best way to buy or sell your property in<br />

Montpellier, Paris or in the south of France.”<br />

T: +33 (0)4.67.02.78.25 | E: info@msc-immo.com


BEST VALUE IN PARIS<br />

THE HOTEL TAYLOR WILL DELIGHT BOTH YOU AND YOUR WALLET<br />

ON THE RIGHT BANK, in a peaceful,<br />

secluded position on a quiet one-way<br />

street just outside the bustling centre<br />

of Paris and within walking distance<br />

of Notre Dame, the family-run<br />

boutique Hotel Taylor is the perfect<br />

base from which to enjoy a romantic<br />

THIS JUST IN<br />

Hotel Taylor is renovating<br />

the adjacent Hotel<br />

Annexe – visit<br />

annexe-paris-hotel.com<br />

to view their new<br />

low-cost rooms.<br />

break in the City of Light. Just a<br />

short walk from the lively Marais<br />

district and close to major department<br />

stores, the Place des Vosges, Bastille<br />

and Canal Saint Martin, the hotel’s<br />

location is unbeatable.<br />

With a charming and cosy ambience<br />

PROMOTION<br />

as well as 37 newly refurbished,<br />

sound-proofed guestrooms and<br />

modern, romantic interiors, you’ll<br />

be tempted to stay in, as well as<br />

to go out. Hotel amenities include<br />

free WiFi, a fl at-screen TV in every<br />

bedroom and a sumptuous buffet<br />

breakfast. And the hotel’s attentive<br />

and experienced staff are always<br />

on hand to help with restaurant<br />

suggestions, taxi bookings and more.<br />

Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is<br />

outstanding value for money – with<br />

single rooms from just €80 and<br />

doubles from €91, it is the hotel of<br />

choice for savvy travellers.<br />

Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010<br />

Paris, tel: +33 (0)1 4240 1101<br />

Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com<br />

paristaylorhotel.com


MADE IN ICELAND<br />

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ATA<br />

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More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Prague<br />

Czech Republic<br />

DIALLING CODE +420<br />

CURRENCY CZK<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Bristol, London (LGW,<br />

STN), Lyon, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A Cedaz van takes you<br />

to the city for CZK90<br />

per person.<br />

Catch bus 119<br />

to Dejvicka then<br />

take metro line A to the<br />

centre. Tickets: CZK26.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Jan<br />

Paukert (981 Narodni,<br />

tel: 736 477 939)<br />

Dating back to 1916,<br />

Jan Paukert is a<br />

gourmet delicatessen.<br />

But it’s the famous,<br />

open-faced chlebicky<br />

sandwiches that draw<br />

the curious crowds.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

V Zatisi (1 Betlemske,<br />

tel: 222 221 155) As one<br />

of Prague’s fi rst private<br />

restaurants, V Zatisi<br />

has a proud history<br />

of fi ne dining. The<br />

two choices of Czech<br />

and International<br />

degustation menus are<br />

both wonderful choices<br />

for the full, modern V<br />

Zatisi experience.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Lounge (615 Plaska)<br />

Perfect for an espresso<br />

or a glass of wine,<br />

Café Lounge is a cosy<br />

place to experience a<br />

typically Prague café.<br />

It’s not continuously<br />

voted best bar and café<br />

in Prague for nothing!<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Cloud 9 (Hilton Hotel,<br />

1 Pobrezni, tel: 224<br />

842 999) A favourite<br />

for expats with cash<br />

to spare, Cloud 9 has<br />

defi nitely earned its<br />

popularity thanks to<br />

exquisite cocktails,<br />

chill atmosphere and<br />

stunning views.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Going into its<br />

67th year, the Prague<br />

Spring International<br />

Music Festival (12 May<br />

– 3 June) continues<br />

its tradition of inviting<br />

the brightest stars in<br />

classical music from<br />

around the world.<br />

(festival.cz).<br />

prague-life.com<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Take a moment to<br />

touch the bronze<br />

plaque beneath St<br />

John of Nepomuk’s<br />

statue on Charles<br />

Bridge to ensure<br />

a speedy return to<br />

the wonderful city<br />

of Prague.<br />

Pristina<br />

Kosovo<br />

DIALLING CODE +381<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Minimax (Film City,<br />

Arberia, tel: 038 24<br />

72 29) The rather<br />

classy restaurant<br />

of this much-loved<br />

supermarket attracts<br />

shoppers and night<br />

owls looking for<br />

decent, well-priced<br />

pizzas, meat dishes<br />

and salads.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Rron (Veternik,<br />

tel: 038 602 450)<br />

One of the best<br />

restaurants in<br />

Pristina, just south of<br />

town amid a clutch<br />

of upmarket places.<br />

There are excellent<br />

fi sh and meat dishes,<br />

good wines and a<br />

great bar. May should<br />

be just perfect to<br />

enjoy the garden,<br />

which has a children’s<br />

play corner.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY X21 Café<br />

(Dardania) A cosy<br />

and very special café,<br />

staff ed by people with<br />

Down’s Syndrome<br />

- an extra 21st<br />

chromosome. Come<br />

for service with a smile,<br />

good coff ee and to<br />

contribute to a worthy<br />

cause. Near the PTK<br />

building, behind the<br />

Furra Elisa bakery.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Crème de la Crème<br />

(Str. Mujo Ulqinaku,<br />

tel: 049 22 00 08)<br />

Just south of the<br />

Pejton nightlife district,<br />

this fantastic bar is<br />

crammed with people<br />

dancing to loud music<br />

most weekends.<br />

What’s more, it’s cheap<br />

even for Pristina’s<br />

modest standards.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Go to the TEDx<br />

event at the American<br />

School of Kosovo<br />

on 19 May: inspiring<br />

speakers from all<br />

walks of life hold short<br />

presentations on<br />

ideas worth spreading<br />

(tedxprishtina.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Solo pilot James<br />

Berisha, fl ying around<br />

the world to lobby<br />

governments to<br />

recognise Kosovo’s<br />

independence,<br />

crash-landed in Sudan<br />

last summer and<br />

continued to Eritrea<br />

by commercial airliner,<br />

only to be thrown into<br />

jail on suspicion of<br />

being a US spy.<br />

Jeroen van Marle/<br />

inyourpocket.com<br />

KEFLAVÍK AIRPORT REYKJAVÍK CITY<br />

O<br />

Free WiFi Hotspot<br />

on board our coaches.<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 169<br />

Reykjavik<br />

Iceland<br />

DIALLING CODE +354<br />

CURRENCY Krona (ISK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík<br />

Iceland www.flybus.is<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

up to 12,000 ISK<br />

Airbus to the<br />

city centre takes<br />

45 minutes. Tickets:<br />

1,950 ISK (one way)<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Kaffi Sólon (7A<br />

Bankastræti, tel: 562<br />

3232) This welcoming,<br />

spacious café-bar<br />

is frequented by a<br />

broad demographic<br />

of locals and tourists.<br />

It has a cosmopolitan<br />

atmosphere, decent<br />

artwork and a diverse<br />

menu that ranges<br />

from burgers and<br />

monkfi sh to great<br />

vegetarian quiche.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Gallery Restaurant<br />

(37 Bergstdastraeti,<br />

tel: 552 570) Located<br />

inside the Holt<br />

Hotel, the Gallery’s<br />

sophisticated menu<br />

has game and seafood<br />

dishes, mostly with<br />

a French twist; try<br />

the reindeer for<br />

something special.<br />

The artwork and wine<br />

list are also talking<br />

points, and there’s a<br />

fi ne whisky selection<br />

in the adjacent bar.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Hressingarskálinn<br />

(20 Austurstræti, tel:<br />

561 2240) Known as<br />

Hressó, this spacious<br />

café-bar is one of<br />

the city’s premier<br />

hangouts. Expect<br />

board games, things<br />

to read, decent food<br />

and drinks as well as<br />

DJs and bands from<br />

time to time.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Gaukur á Stong (22<br />

Tryggvagata, tel: 551<br />

1556) In the centre<br />

of town, Gaukur á<br />

Stong is one of the<br />

city’s longest-running<br />

establishments.<br />

It’s been through<br />

a number of name<br />

changes over the<br />

years, but has always<br />

been a safe bet if<br />

you’re looking for<br />

something upbeat<br />

in the evenings –<br />

usually live music.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Taking place<br />

on 18–19 May, the<br />

Reykjavik Music Mess<br />

is a relatively new<br />

independent music<br />

festival that showcases<br />

bands from Iceland,<br />

USA, Finland and<br />

Greenland (reykjavik<br />

musicmess.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Sixty per cent of<br />

Iceland’s population<br />

lives in Reykjavik.<br />

Paul Sullivan<br />

FAST, FREQUENT & ON SCHEDULE<br />

EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK.


170 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Rhodes<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW), Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €23.<br />

From 6.30am to<br />

midnight, regular<br />

buses go to Rhodes<br />

Town (New Market).<br />

Tickets: €2.20.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Koukos<br />

(20–26 Nikifórou<br />

Mandilará, tel: 22410<br />

73022) It started as<br />

a traditional locals’<br />

café, but Koukos has<br />

evolved into one of<br />

the best mezedopolía<br />

(traditional snack bars)<br />

in otherwise touristy<br />

Neohóri district. The<br />

Tardis-like interior, on<br />

several levels, is a de<br />

facto antique museum;<br />

there’s also a counter<br />

for baked goods.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Stegna Kozas (Stegná<br />

Beach, Archángelos,<br />

tel: 22440 22632)<br />

Established in 1932,<br />

this friendly, top-fl ight<br />

seafood restaurant<br />

has shellfi sh, scaly fi sh<br />

and specialities like<br />

cuttlefi sh in its own<br />

ink. Starters, including<br />

chunky aubergine<br />

paté with pine nuts<br />

and sweet peppers,<br />

are excellent too. The<br />

service – including iced<br />

beer mugs – is also<br />

outstanding.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Ateya (20 Aktí Miaouli,<br />

tel: 6932 232959)<br />

Café Ateya is a cosy,<br />

characterful place with<br />

a good soundtrack,<br />

light snacks and a<br />

superb view of the<br />

sea. Occasional<br />

live music plays at<br />

weekends, including<br />

performances of<br />

classical pieces.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Colorado Centre (57<br />

Orfanidou, tel: 22410<br />

75120) The largest<br />

club in Neohóri, this<br />

multi-level, four-in-one<br />

venues has a chill-out<br />

zone and occasionally<br />

hosts DJs and live<br />

bands.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The sea has<br />

warmed up a bit now:<br />

try scuba diving near<br />

the old Art Nouveau<br />

spa at Pigés Kallithéas.<br />

Competing operators<br />

tout for business at<br />

Mandráki quay.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Rhodes is home to<br />

a dwarf variant of<br />

the fallow deer (dama<br />

dama) distinct from<br />

other populations.<br />

Marc Dubin<br />

Rome<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Athens, Basel-<br />

Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />

Bilbao, Bristol, Corfu,<br />

Crete (Heraklion),<br />

Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />

Geneva, Ibiza, Lisbon,<br />

London (LGW), Lyon,<br />

Madrid, Majorca, Malta,<br />

Milan (MXP), Mykonos,<br />

Nice, Palermo, Paris<br />

(ORY), Santorini, Split,<br />

Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €40.<br />

The Bus Shuttle<br />

takes you to<br />

Termini station. Buy<br />

onboard tickets: €15.<br />

The Leonardo<br />

Express goes<br />

to Termini station.<br />

Tickets: €14.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Antonio<br />

al Pantheon (12 Via<br />

dei Pastini, tel: 06<br />

679 0798) Pietro and<br />

his family create a<br />

pleasant, welcoming<br />

atmosphere. Go for the<br />

delicious fresh pasta<br />

rolled in a a great big<br />

hunk of parmigiano.<br />

UP TO €30 Borgo<br />

Nuovo (104 Borgo<br />

Pio, tel: 06 589 2852)<br />

A short stroll from St<br />

Peter’s Square, Carlo<br />

Bartolomeo and his<br />

son Fabio put the<br />

accent on good honest<br />

food rather than fancy<br />

decor. For your fi rst<br />

course try the gnocchi<br />

with courgette and<br />

clams, and for the<br />

main go for the Roman<br />

speciality, tripe.<br />

UP TO €50 La<br />

Tartaruga (53 Via<br />

Monte della Farina,<br />

tel: 06 686 9473) This<br />

tiny restaurant has<br />

a similarly restricted<br />

but regularly changing<br />

menu, which refl ects<br />

the owner’s Friulian<br />

origins. Try the<br />

asparagus risotto or<br />

sample the cold meats<br />

and cheeses.<br />

EXCLUSIVE El<br />

Toula’ (29B Via della<br />

Lupa, tel: 06 687 3750)<br />

A stone’s throw from<br />

the Pantheon, this<br />

smart and luxurious<br />

venue, with its high<br />

vaulted ceilings and<br />

antique furniture,<br />

serves Venetian food<br />

prepared under the<br />

direction of Fabrizio<br />

Leggiero. Why not<br />

try one of a range of<br />

delicious risottos or<br />

his seafood, such as<br />

Sicilian red prawns<br />

and scallops with<br />

artichokes and<br />

marjoram soup? The<br />

exquisite chocolateand-tangerine<br />

passion<br />

with ricotta sauce is<br />

divine for dessert.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cul<br />

de Sac (73 Piazza<br />

Pasquino, tel: 06 6880<br />

1094) A perennially<br />

popular wine bar, near<br />

the Piazza Navona in<br />

the city centre, off ering<br />

wines from around<br />

the world. There are<br />

outside tables and a<br />

range of food.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Escopazzo (41 Via<br />

d’Aracoeli) If live jazz<br />

and funk are for you,<br />

this long-established<br />

cocktail lounge<br />

hosts concerts<br />

from Wednesday<br />

to Saturday.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Micca Club (7A Via<br />

Pietro Micca, tel: 06<br />

8744 0079) This club<br />

is dominated by an<br />

enormous circular<br />

staircase and fountain,<br />

a big dancefl oor with<br />

columns and arched<br />

ceilings. There are<br />

three bars, an art<br />

gallery, chill-out<br />

zone and a stage<br />

for live music.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Regola 71,<br />

Emanuela Corbo’s<br />

ROME HILTON<br />

AIRPORT<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Cheek-by-jowl with<br />

the airport, this<br />

stay has everything<br />

a traveller needs,<br />

including free shuttle<br />

buses into the city.<br />

From €192, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com<br />

elegant shop, is tailored<br />

more for the older<br />

woman, <strong>may</strong>be a little<br />

bigger in the waist. It<br />

is modern but not too<br />

trendy, with a range<br />

of classical European<br />

designer clothes and<br />

accessories (71 Via dei<br />

Cappellari).<br />

SEE The Palazzo<br />

delle Esposizioni<br />

on Via Nazionale is<br />

showing the works<br />

of Arturo Ghergo,<br />

“Photographer of the<br />

Stars” (human, not<br />

heavenly ones). Open<br />

Tuesday, Wednesday,<br />

Thursday, 10am–8pm.<br />

GO If you walk into<br />

the Colle Oppio<br />

park next to the<br />

Colosseum, you can<br />

picnic or sleep on the<br />

grass, or <strong>may</strong>be go to<br />

the outdoor café and<br />

catch the motorcycle<br />

carabinieri riding up<br />

for their ice-cream<br />

and coff ee break.<br />

It also contains the<br />

remains of the Domus<br />

Aurea, a villa built<br />

by the Emperor Nero,<br />

after the great fi re<br />

in AD64 had razed<br />

the dwellings on<br />

the slopes of the<br />

Palatine Hill.<br />

ESCAPE Frascati is<br />

a hill town south of<br />

the city, renowned for<br />

its lovely white wine<br />

and great restaurants.<br />

It is worth a trip out<br />

for lunch.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Vatican <strong>may</strong> be<br />

the world’s smallest<br />

country but it houses<br />

one of the world’s<br />

largest museums.<br />

Alan Goldwater


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Santiago de<br />

Compostela<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

A bus goes to<br />

the centre every<br />

half hour. Tickets: €3<br />

single, €5 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Enxebre (1 Obradoiro<br />

Square) Within the<br />

majestic Parador in<br />

Obradoiro square, this<br />

is an informal corner<br />

for lunch. Come here<br />

for traditional dishes<br />

(such as octopus<br />

or empanada) in a<br />

nice atmosphere at<br />

aff ordable prices.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Carretas (21<br />

Carretas, tel: 981<br />

563 111) Looking for<br />

a smart atmosphere<br />

and proper local<br />

food without much<br />

experimentation?<br />

Then this place should<br />

prove a success.<br />

Carretas is a reliable<br />

option for a wide<br />

variety of dishes,<br />

including unbeatable<br />

Galician seafood.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Camalea (4 Praza<br />

San Martiño) Here,<br />

you’ll fi nd a warm<br />

atmosphere and an<br />

interesting drinks<br />

menu including<br />

natural fruit infusions,<br />

exotic milkshakes,<br />

coff ees and a<br />

variety of beers.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

A Medusa (1 Praza<br />

de Salvador Parga)<br />

Self-branded<br />

“alternative bar”, this<br />

is a recognisable spot.<br />

Alongside your<br />

drinks, you might<br />

be able see a photo<br />

exhibition, fl ick<br />

through some secondhand<br />

stuff for sale or<br />

enjoy the terrace,<br />

weather permitting.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The encaje de<br />

bolillos is a traditional<br />

Galician knitting<br />

technique, and Bolillos<br />

is a great place to<br />

learn all about it.<br />

Technically a shop<br />

selling linens and<br />

lingerie, there are also<br />

classes (40 Rúa Nova,<br />

bolilloscompostela.es).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

“Día das Letras<br />

Galegas”, on 17 May is<br />

a festival celebrating<br />

the region’s own<br />

language and<br />

literature. This year,<br />

it’s dedicated to the<br />

memory of writer<br />

Valentín Paz Andrade.<br />

Pablo Carballo<br />

Santorini<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €22.<br />

The airport bus<br />

runs every 30<br />

minutes from 6am to<br />

1am. Tickets: €2.40.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Aktaion (Main<br />

Square, Firostefani,<br />

tel: 22860 22336)<br />

Dine al fresco at this<br />

friendly, whitewashed<br />

taverna and enjoy a<br />

view of the volcano<br />

on one side and the<br />

lights of Imerovigli<br />

twinkling on the other.<br />

Try the homemade<br />

moussaka, Santorini<br />

white eggplant dip and<br />

fava-bean meatballs.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Koukoumavlos<br />

(Below Hotel Atlantis,<br />

Fira, tel: 22860<br />

23807) You’ll love the<br />

views from this old<br />

sea-captain’s house,<br />

as you sample chef<br />

Nikos Pouliasis’s<br />

award-winning Greek<br />

cuisine. His menu<br />

matches ingredients<br />

such as sea bass<br />

and local bitter<br />

orange, crayfi sh and<br />

white chocolate.<br />

NO HIDDEN NASTIES<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Sun<br />

Spirit (Oia, tel: 228<br />

607 1655) Tucked in<br />

next to one of Oia’s<br />

trademark windmills,<br />

this laidback bar<br />

off ers a superb<br />

view of Santorini’s<br />

famed sunset from<br />

its terrace. Get there<br />

early to bag a seat and<br />

enjoy the cocktails.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Tango (Fira, tel: 697<br />

449 8206) Crowdpleasing<br />

tunes and<br />

fresh fruit cocktails like<br />

strawberry caipirinhas<br />

and bellinis draw the<br />

faithful to this sleekly<br />

designed bar. If you’re<br />

tired of dancing, grab a<br />

sofa and enjoy the view<br />

of the caldera.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Spend an<br />

afternoon getting<br />

lost in the streets<br />

of Emporio, a<br />

whitewashed village<br />

overlooked by a cluster<br />

of ancient windmills.<br />

Be sure to try the sundried<br />

tomatoes and<br />

visit Palia Panagia, one<br />

of the island’s oldest<br />

churches.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Builders installing<br />

a new water supply<br />

in Perissa dug up<br />

an ancient relief,<br />

measuring almost 2m<br />

long, earlier this year.<br />

James Williams<br />

WE PROMISE THE PRICE YOU SEE IS THE PRICE YOU PAY,<br />

SO NO UNEXPECTED EXTRA CHARGES. GREAT!<br />

TAXI<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 171<br />

Seville<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €22.<br />

The airport bus<br />

runs every 30<br />

minutes from 6am to<br />

1am. Tickets: €2.40.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

EXCLUSIVE Corral<br />

del Agua (6 Calle del<br />

Agua, tel: 954 224<br />

841) A favourite with<br />

Seville’s slick business<br />

set, this Santa Cruz<br />

restaurant is worth<br />

the splurge, with its<br />

unmatched position<br />

and Moorish-inspired<br />

dishes and desserts.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar<br />

Giralda (1 Calle Mateos<br />

Gago, tel: 954 563 702)<br />

Evocatively housed<br />

in a former Moorish<br />

bathhouse, this famous<br />

bar has heady views<br />

of the cathedral from<br />

its pavement seating.<br />

The tapas are reliably<br />

good as well. Try<br />

the espinacas con<br />

garbanzos (spinach<br />

with chickpeas).<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

El Arenal (7 Calle<br />

Rodo, tel: 954 216<br />

492) Founded in<br />

1975 and still one of<br />

the most authentic<br />

fl amenco shows in<br />

the city. El Arenal has<br />

nightly performances.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Don’t miss the<br />

fascinating photo<br />

exhibition at the<br />

Convento de Santa<br />

Clara (Calle Becas)<br />

featuring photos<br />

of Spain spanning<br />

the 19th and 20th<br />

centuries, organised<br />

by the Hispanic<br />

Society of America.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Almost 10 years<br />

ago, the weather<br />

station here recorded<br />

a temperature of<br />

47.2ºC, one of the<br />

highest temperatures<br />

ever recorded in<br />

Europe.<br />

Josephine Quintero<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Los Coloniales<br />

(Plaza Cristo de<br />

Burgos) This <strong>may</strong><br />

look like a pretty<br />

basic place but<br />

the tapas are<br />

outstanding. Share<br />

a plate of fried<br />

aubergine slices.<br />

Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers<br />

great car rental deals. For your discounted<br />

price book at<br />

easyJet.com or visit<br />

the Europcar desk.


172 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Sharm El<br />

Sheikh Egypt<br />

DIALLING CODE +20<br />

CURRENCY EGP<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva, London<br />

(LGW, LTN),<br />

Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about EGP150.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Makani (Na’ama<br />

Bay and Hadaba, tel:<br />

069 366 4422) This<br />

popular bakery off ers<br />

an extensive range of<br />

delicious sandwiches,<br />

sushi and pastries,<br />

accompanied with<br />

your choice of fresh<br />

juice or gourmet<br />

coff ee.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

On Deck, Lido<br />

Iberotel (Na’ama Bay,<br />

tel: 069 360 2603)<br />

The perfect setting<br />

for an intimate<br />

candlelit supper.<br />

Tables are laid out<br />

on the pier, with the<br />

twinkling lights of<br />

Na’ama Bay on one<br />

side and the warm<br />

waters of the Red Sea<br />

below and all around<br />

you. Naturally, fi sh<br />

dishes are a speciality.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Camel<br />

Bar and Roof (Camel<br />

Hotel, Na‚ama Bay, tel:<br />

069 360 0700)<br />

Admire the beach<br />

from the rooftop and<br />

enjoy the sunset with<br />

some drinks from this<br />

bar, with its laid-back<br />

atmosphere, live<br />

music and big screens.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Hard Rock Cafe<br />

(Na’ama Bay, tel:<br />

069 360 2664) With<br />

its central location,<br />

the Hard Rock Café<br />

is a good choice for<br />

dining and clubbing.<br />

From midnight, the<br />

tables are cleared, the<br />

beer and cocktails<br />

keep fl owing and the<br />

partying doesn’t stop<br />

until the last person<br />

heads home.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO An introductory<br />

scuba dive will give<br />

you the perfect<br />

opportunity to<br />

experience the<br />

excitement of<br />

breathing underwater<br />

for the fi rst time.<br />

Join Sinai Divers for<br />

an unforgettable<br />

adventure in the ocean<br />

paradise of the Red<br />

Sea and fi nd out why<br />

millions of people all<br />

over the world enjoy<br />

this amazing sport<br />

(tel: 069 3600158).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Parts of the Red Sea<br />

coral reef are over<br />

5,000 years old.<br />

Penny Orford<br />

Sofia<br />

Bulgaria<br />

DIALLING CODE +359<br />

CURRENCY Leu (BGN)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about BGN14.<br />

Catch bus 84<br />

from Terminal 1 or<br />

bus 284 from Terminal<br />

2. Tickets: BGN1.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Annette (27 Angel<br />

Kunchev Ulitza, tel:<br />

980 4098) Moroccan<br />

menu featuring<br />

tagines, couscous<br />

and lush, healthy<br />

salads. Finish off with<br />

mint tea and cedar<br />

nuts, or a lengthy<br />

puff on sweetfl<br />

avoured tobacco<br />

from a traditional<br />

water pipe.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Vratata (13 Kokiche<br />

Ulitsa, tel: ) Local<br />

game dishes feature<br />

on the menu here,<br />

as well as European,<br />

Greek and Turkish<br />

cuisine. The wine list<br />

is rich with Argentine,<br />

Italian, Spanish<br />

and Bulgarian<br />

wines to perfectly<br />

complement the<br />

delicious food.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Bilkova (22 Tsar<br />

Ivan Shishman<br />

Street, tel: 986<br />

4905) Watch locals<br />

strut along the street<br />

while you sip mixed<br />

drinks or draught<br />

beers in Bilkova’s<br />

casual garden or<br />

within its dark<br />

underground cavern.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Toba&co (6<br />

Moskovska Ulitsa, tel:<br />

989 4696) A 1950s<br />

bar, servers with<br />

attitude, decadent<br />

cocktails and heated<br />

garden terrace of<br />

sprawling sofas and<br />

random statues<br />

makes Toba&Co<br />

one part wicked, one<br />

part wondrous.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The biggest park<br />

in Sofi a, Borisova<br />

Garden, is the<br />

perfect place for<br />

sports, resting or<br />

just hanging around.<br />

Here, you’ll fi nd the<br />

National Stadium as<br />

well as tennis courts,<br />

cafés, horseriding<br />

centre, swimming<br />

pool and many<br />

more things to do<br />

and discover.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Sofi a is the only city<br />

in Europe boasting<br />

eight separate<br />

mineral springs.<br />

Maya Kozareva<br />

Sitting S comfortably?<br />

Split<br />

Croatia<br />

DIALLING CODE +385<br />

CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Milan (MXP, Paris<br />

(CDG), Rome<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

around HRK160.<br />

Bus 37 goes to<br />

Split’s main bus<br />

station. Tickets: HRK15.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Black<br />

Cat (1 Segviceva,<br />

tel: 021 490 284) A<br />

traveller favourite for<br />

as long as anyone<br />

can remember, this<br />

is where to come for<br />

some comfort food<br />

and to check your<br />

emails before hopping<br />

on a ferry bound for<br />

the gorgeous islands<br />

that lie just off shore.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Zrno<br />

Soli (Uvala Baluni,<br />

Split 21000, tel: 021<br />

399 383) A new arrival<br />

last year at the city’s<br />

main marina, this<br />

fun and funky eatery<br />

is where the local<br />

cool crowd come to<br />

munch on top-notch<br />

advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />

Dalmatian seafood.<br />

Expect a few twists<br />

as well as all the<br />

fi shy staples.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Caff e Bar Fluid<br />

(1 Dosud) Tucked<br />

within the walls of<br />

Diocletian’s Palace,<br />

chill out here with<br />

cool cocktails and a<br />

similarly cool crowd.<br />

Live DJs on weekends.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Marjan, a forested<br />

hill to the west of the<br />

city centre, is easy to<br />

spot with a hulking<br />

Croatian fl ag billowing<br />

from its summit. Walk<br />

the trails, enjoy the<br />

breeze and take in the<br />

epic views.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

During the Homeland<br />

War in the 1990s,<br />

Split was completely<br />

cut off from Zagreb<br />

and the city was<br />

briefl y shelled.<br />

robinmckelvie.com<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Café Bellevue (Trg<br />

Republike) Settle<br />

in at the café on a<br />

historic square just<br />

outside Diocletian’s<br />

Palace and admire<br />

the columns and<br />

the Adriatic Sea in<br />

the distance.<br />

Imagine over<br />

5 million people looking<br />

at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />

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of your plan today<br />

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174 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Stockholm<br />

Sweden<br />

DIALLING CODE +46<br />

CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about SEK500.<br />

Flygbussarna<br />

coaches depart<br />

for the city centre.<br />

Tickets: SEK 198 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Indian<br />

Garden Skrapan (18<br />

Västgötagatan, tel: 08<br />

640 7430) The second<br />

Indian Garden outpost<br />

is decked out in muted<br />

velvety gold and purple.<br />

The ambitiously<br />

seasoned dishes use<br />

the whole range of<br />

Indian spices, bringing<br />

out subtle fl avour and<br />

fragrance, not just heat.<br />

Sesame Lamb chops<br />

are 269 kronor.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Barbro<br />

(13 Hornstulls Strand,<br />

Södermalm, tel: 08<br />

550 60266) Barbro<br />

is only a few months<br />

old, but it has already<br />

become a destination<br />

for well-dressed,<br />

bespectacled creatives.<br />

Asian fl avours with<br />

a Scandinavian<br />

backbone characterise<br />

the kitchen. You can<br />

also eat in the<br />

cinema downstairs.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Brut<br />

Bar (4 Mäster<br />

Samuelsgatan) A<br />

swanky basement<br />

bar does not have<br />

to be an oxymoron.<br />

Champagne,<br />

charcuterie and<br />

oysters are on off er in<br />

this newly renovated<br />

subterranean locale.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Nalen (74<br />

Regeringsgatan,<br />

tel: 08 5052 9200)<br />

This beautiful, richly<br />

ornamented venue<br />

with three stages, a<br />

bar and restaurant,<br />

off ers a wide range of<br />

live music and some<br />

of the best club nights<br />

in town.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Långholmen is<br />

an idyllic green island<br />

sprinkled with beaches.<br />

This wasn’t always the<br />

case. Up until 1974,<br />

the island was actually<br />

Stockholm’s own<br />

Alcatraz. The former<br />

prison is now a hostel<br />

and a museum.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The only retail store<br />

in Sweden allowed<br />

to sell beverages<br />

containing more than<br />

3.5% alcohol is the<br />

government-run chain<br />

Systembolaget. You<br />

need to be 20 years<br />

old to shop there.<br />

Victoria Larsson<br />

Tallinn<br />

Estonia<br />

DIALLING CODE +372<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool,<br />

London (STN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €10.<br />

Route 2 goes<br />

to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €1.60.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Olde<br />

Hansa (1 Vana Turg,<br />

tel: 627 9020) Come<br />

to the mysterious Old<br />

Town and feast in Olde<br />

Hansa like Hanseatic<br />

merchants, in merry,<br />

medieval style.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Horisont (Swissôtel<br />

Tallinn, 3 Tornimäe,<br />

tel: 624 2416) The<br />

chic and sophisticated<br />

Horisont Restaurant,<br />

Bar and Cigar Lounge<br />

off ers a modern<br />

and eclectic mix of<br />

dining underlined by<br />

great service, with<br />

spectacular views<br />

over the Old Town<br />

and the bay.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Lounge<br />

24 (Radisson Blu<br />

Hotel, 3 Rävala, tel:<br />

682 3424) Teetering<br />

on the 24th fl oor,<br />

this bar attracts a<br />

sophisticated crowd<br />

keen to enjoy the<br />

great drinks and<br />

fabulous views of the<br />

city. The terrace bar<br />

is a formidable<br />

90 metres above<br />

street level.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Club Hollywood<br />

(8 Vana-Posti, tel:<br />

627 4770) One of<br />

the hottest places<br />

in Tallinn. Club<br />

Hollywood is usually<br />

packed to the limits<br />

with young party<br />

animals.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

When was the last time<br />

you visited a village<br />

shop, never mind<br />

opened one? Well,<br />

you can participate<br />

at the opening of the<br />

Lau village shop at<br />

Estonian Open Air<br />

Museum on 22 May.<br />

Ain Hinsberg<br />

OLD TOWN<br />

DAYS<br />

GO Old Town<br />

bursts into a frenzy<br />

of celebration as<br />

musicians, medieval<br />

characters, markets<br />

and events fi ll<br />

the streets (26<br />

May – 2 June,<br />

vanalinnapaevad.ee).<br />

Tangier<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Madrid,<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about MAD150.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Miramar Restaurant<br />

(Avenue Mohammed<br />

VI ) This low-key bar<br />

on the beachfront<br />

off ers an excellent<br />

selection of free tapas<br />

in over-the-top kitsch<br />

surrounds. A favourite<br />

with locals, its relaxed,<br />

friendly vibe and<br />

proximity to nightclubs<br />

makes it inviting, both<br />

as a refuge from the<br />

bustle outside and as<br />

good place to have<br />

a pre-night-out drink.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Casa<br />

España (Ave Jebha<br />

Watania, tel: 0539 94<br />

73 59) The mango and<br />

baked goat’s cheese<br />

salad; endive, smoked<br />

salmon and roquefort<br />

salad; and tomato soup<br />

are all good starters at<br />

this Spanish club. Don’t<br />

be too surprised at the<br />

amazing paella: you’re<br />

only 15km from the<br />

coast of Spain.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Eric<br />

Kayser (Rue des<br />

Amoureux, tel: 05<br />

3933 1683) French<br />

master baker Eric<br />

Kayser takes breadmaking<br />

to another<br />

level, using local<br />

ingredients. His café is<br />

located in an upmarket<br />

district, attracting<br />

Tangier’s yuppie set.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Chellah Beach Club<br />

(Avenue Mohammed<br />

VI, Ville Nouvelle,<br />

tel: 0539 325 068)<br />

Throughout summer,<br />

live bands play under<br />

the stars. Monday is<br />

open-mic night, when<br />

fresh, local musical<br />

talent comes out to<br />

perform. A relaxed and<br />

sociable vibe.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Tangier<br />

International Book Fair.<br />

Now in its 16th year,<br />

the annual book fair<br />

attracts publishers,<br />

writers, readers,<br />

artists, scientists<br />

and children. A good<br />

opportunity to sample<br />

local writing in several<br />

languages (1–5 May,<br />

Palais des Institutions,<br />

2 Avenue Hassan).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Perdicaris House,<br />

the haunted ruin in<br />

Ramilat Park, was<br />

used as a location<br />

in horror fi lm<br />

The Exorcist.<br />

Aman te Water


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Tel Aviv<br />

Israel<br />

DIALLING CODE +972<br />

CURRENCY ILS<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London (LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about ILS150.<br />

Trains run to<br />

the city centre<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: ILS14.5.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Dr<br />

Shakshuka (3 Beit<br />

Eshel, Jaff a, tel: 682<br />

2842) Legendary<br />

as the go-to place<br />

for Israel’s favourite<br />

brunch dish – eggs<br />

lightly baked in a<br />

spicy tomato sauce.<br />

Open six days a<br />

week until midnight.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Montenegro (26<br />

Nachmani Street, tel:<br />

566 3331) Creating<br />

a big buzz with local<br />

celebs with its colourful<br />

decor and chic location<br />

just behind Rothschild<br />

Boulevard. Cuisine is an<br />

out-there mix of Balkan<br />

specialities including<br />

white fi sh with feta, and<br />

old-school Jewish<br />

deli favourites such as<br />

chopped liver.<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

Making<br />

Waves<br />

All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />

in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />

offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />

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001_ej_Cover May.indd 1 13/04/<strong>2012</strong> 15:26<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Porter<br />

& Sons (14 Harbaa<br />

Street, tel: 624 4355)<br />

A proper tavern with<br />

Bavarian wheat beer<br />

and strong Belgian<br />

lager among the 50<br />

ales on tap. Sausages,<br />

fi sh and chips and<br />

other pub snacks are<br />

available to soak up<br />

the booze.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE Madonna<br />

performs at the<br />

National Football<br />

Stadium in Ramat Gan,<br />

where the Queen of<br />

Kabbalah, a frequent<br />

visitor to Israel, will<br />

launch her <strong>2012</strong> world<br />

tour on 29 May.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Tel Aviv is home to<br />

the world’s largest<br />

diamond exchange,<br />

and visitors can get<br />

a free four-hour tour,<br />

including major city<br />

highlights, from the<br />

Israel Diamond Centre<br />

Anthea Gerrie<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Hamara Bar (87<br />

Hayarkon Street,<br />

tel: 522 6464) A<br />

lively lounge serving<br />

pomegranate<br />

cosmopolitans and<br />

other signature<br />

cocktails till the last<br />

customer leaves.<br />

Tenerife<br />

South Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel, Berlin,<br />

Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

Route 487 stops<br />

at Los Cristianos<br />

and Playa de Las<br />

Américas. Tickets: €3.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Mamma Rosa<br />

(Avenida Santiago<br />

Puig, Colon II, Playa de<br />

Las Américas, tel: 922<br />

794 819) Always busy,<br />

this European venue<br />

serves such specialities<br />

as sole fi llets in king<br />

prawn and white wine<br />

sauce. Situated near<br />

the popular harbour.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Dante<br />

Alighieri (Avenida<br />

Rafael Puig, Playa de<br />

las Américas, tel: 922<br />

750 473) Enjoy topquality<br />

Italian cuisine<br />

in the heart of the<br />

bustling town of Playa<br />

de las Américas. The<br />

restaurant is situated<br />

on the coastal path and<br />

boasts spectacular sea<br />

views – perfect for<br />

a romantic dinner.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar<br />

Nuestro (12 Calle San<br />

Roque, Los Cristianos)<br />

To sample a taste of<br />

Canarian cuisine, try<br />

this authentic bar and<br />

restaurant with its<br />

farm-style decor and<br />

fabulous tapas.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Restaurante Patch<br />

(Centro Comercial<br />

American, tel: 922 752<br />

949) In the heart of<br />

Las Américas lies one<br />

of Tenerife’s oldest<br />

and most well-known<br />

bars, which attracts<br />

many tourists owing<br />

to its great beachside<br />

location and pavement<br />

setting. Great food<br />

and live music are<br />

off ered nightly.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO A visit to see the<br />

Katandra Treetops<br />

attraction at the Loro<br />

Parque in Puerto de<br />

la Cruz is well worth<br />

the one-and-a-half<br />

hour bus journey.<br />

Viewers can witness<br />

the free fl ight of some<br />

of Australia’s most<br />

dazzling birds as well<br />

as have fun with the<br />

cheeky monkeys!<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The island’s original<br />

inhabitants were<br />

called Guanches and<br />

evidence of their<br />

existence remains<br />

today in the historic<br />

old town of Masca.<br />

Natasha Laming<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 175<br />

Thessaloniki<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Dortmund,<br />

London (LGW), Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Route 78 goes<br />

directly to the<br />

city centre. Tickets:<br />

€0.80.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Ladokolla stin<br />

Platia (9 Platia<br />

Navarinou, tel: 2310<br />

266 432) Unlike most<br />

of the ouzeris that<br />

cluster around Platia<br />

Navarinou, this simple<br />

taverna specialises<br />

in tenderly grilled<br />

meat served up on<br />

greaseproof paper, as<br />

you’d suspect by the<br />

establishment’s name.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Kivotos ton Yefseon<br />

(26 Patriarchi Ioakim,<br />

tel: 2310 211 711)<br />

The name, which<br />

means “the Ark of<br />

Flavours”, hints at how<br />

traditional recipes<br />

If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />

and cannot take it with you, visit<br />

traveller.‰.com<br />

.com<br />

are preserved and<br />

presented with fresh<br />

ingredients in a<br />

classy dining room<br />

adorned with old<br />

fi lm screenshots.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Aigli<br />

(3 Agiou Nikolaou,<br />

tel: 2310 270 016)<br />

An atmospheric spot<br />

for an early-evening<br />

cocktail or coff ee in<br />

part of a converted<br />

Turkish hammam,<br />

which also doubles<br />

up as an outdoor<br />

cinema during the<br />

summer months.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Ta Kefi a (111 Agiou<br />

Dimitriou) One of the<br />

best central clubs in<br />

which to get a taste<br />

of various styles of<br />

quality Greek music<br />

from rembetika<br />

to entekhno, in a<br />

friendly place with<br />

rustic decor.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE The bizarre<br />

pagan Anastenaria<br />

Firewalking Festival,<br />

when participants<br />

walk on live coals in<br />

a trance, takes place<br />

in Langada, on the<br />

outskirts of the city,<br />

from 21–23 May.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In August 1917, over<br />

three quarters of<br />

the old town burnt<br />

to the ground in<br />

a cataclysmic<br />

fi re, leaving more<br />

than 70,000<br />

people homeless<br />

and decimating<br />

businesses.<br />

Nick Edwards


splash<br />

time<br />

fantastic 4* all inclusive holiday deals<br />

on the holidays website<br />

Malta, Algarve, Egypt and<br />

Majorca holidays<br />

from<br />

£ 285<br />

pp^ ^Prices have extremely limited availability and were correct and available on the easyJet Holidays website on 10/4/<strong>2012</strong>. Price all inclusive holidays from £285pp is based on two people sharing a studio staying at the<br />

4* Club Bellevue Apartments for 7 nights on an all-inclusive board basis departing from London Luton airport to Palma, Majorca (PMI) on the 6th of October <strong>2012</strong>. Admin fee applies and additional charges for credit<br />

card payment, baggage and transfers. The arrangements for a holiday booked on the easyJet Holidays website are made by easyJet, acting as principal for fl ights and as disclosed agent for travel insurance, car rental<br />

and airport parking; and by lowcostbeds acting as agent for accommodation and transfers.


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Toulouse<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Bristol, Brussels,<br />

Geneva, Lille, Lisbon,<br />

London (LGW), Lyon,<br />

Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />

Nantes, Nice, Paris<br />

(CDG, ORY), Porto,<br />

Rome, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

The Toulouse-<br />

Blagnac Navette<br />

goes to the city centre.<br />

Tickets: €5 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Manger Autrement<br />

(155 Grande Rue Saint-<br />

Michel, tel: 05 6132<br />

6841) This restaurant<br />

serves organic dishes<br />

such as aubergine<br />

tarts at lunchtime. The<br />

chef is Indian, so you’ll<br />

get samosas, curries<br />

and pappadams in<br />

the evening.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Les<br />

Copains D’Abord<br />

(38 Rue du Pont-<br />

Guillemery, tel: 05<br />

6247 3999) Longestablished<br />

restaurant<br />

<br />

featuring a huge fresco<br />

of French fi lmstars and<br />

singers dominating<br />

the entrance. Cuisine<br />

is traditional; try the<br />

roast pigeon, cassoulet<br />

or the foie gras.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le Point<br />

Carré (110 Avenue<br />

Jules-Julien, tel: 05<br />

3431 4994) A beautiful<br />

spot with a warm<br />

welcome, this is great<br />

for an early evening<br />

drink and <strong>may</strong>be<br />

something simple to<br />

eat. Le Point Carré has<br />

the charm to make you<br />

forget all other plans<br />

and stay all night.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Puerto Habana (12<br />

Rue Port Saint-Etienne,<br />

tel: 05 6154 4561)<br />

Salsa lessons are held<br />

here from Tuesday<br />

to Thursday at 8pm,<br />

and then you’re ready<br />

to hit the dance fl oor<br />

with a vengeance. Also<br />

sell great mojitos and<br />

sangría. Live music<br />

Saturday nights.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO The Cité de<br />

l’Espace is just outside<br />

Toulouse but is well<br />

worth a day trip. Sit in<br />

the space rockets and<br />

learn everything about<br />

space exploration and<br />

cosmic activity (citeespace.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Miss Van, one of the<br />

best-known graffi ti<br />

artists in Europe, was<br />

born in Toulouse. Look<br />

out for her work all<br />

over the city.<br />

Samantha David<br />

Valencia<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €16.<br />

Metro lines 3<br />

and 5 run to the<br />

city centre and train<br />

station. Tickets: €1.90.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

El Rall (3 Calle<br />

Turnidores, tel: 96<br />

392 2090) One<br />

of the best paella<br />

restaurants in the city<br />

centre. Remember<br />

that the famous rice<br />

dish is traditionally<br />

eaten for lunch,<br />

not dinner.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Joaquin Schmidt (7<br />

Calle Visitación, tel:<br />

96 340 1710) For 15<br />

years, Mr Schmidt<br />

has held true to his<br />

philosophy to cook<br />

each day for 30<br />

people only. Book<br />

early and enjoy the<br />

quirky atmosphere<br />

and his experimental<br />

cuisine. Just north of<br />

the Turia River.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

de las Horas (1 Conde<br />

De Almodóvar, tel:<br />

96 391 7336) This<br />

sumptuous, baroqueinspired<br />

lounge bar<br />

is one of the best<br />

places to sit and<br />

plan the evening’s<br />

entertainment over<br />

a delicious agua de<br />

Valencia or one of their<br />

other cocktails.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Pinball (3 Calle<br />

Concordia) Kitsch,<br />

vintage-style bar in the<br />

heart of Carmen. White<br />

plastic seats, pop-art<br />

and disco balls set the<br />

scene as a young and<br />

arty crowd sway to<br />

funky soul on the tiny<br />

dance fl oor. Open late.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

L’Oceanogràfi c is the<br />

largest oceanographic<br />

park in Europe,<br />

consisting of 110,000<br />

m 2 fi lled with 42<br />

million litres of water.<br />

Andy McNicoll<br />

CITY OF ARTS<br />

AND SCIENCES<br />

GO The City of<br />

Arts and Sciences<br />

(La Ciudad de las<br />

Artes y las Ciencias)<br />

is a modern-day<br />

architectural wonder<br />

from Santiago<br />

Calatrava. Head<br />

down on a sunny day.<br />

Venice<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />

Lisbon, London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Naples,<br />

Nice, Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />

Rome, Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

<br />

<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 177<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A water taxi costs €100.<br />

The ATVO bus<br />

takes 20 minutes<br />

to Piazzale Roma.<br />

Tickets: €5 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Cavatappi (525<br />

Campo della Guerra,<br />

San Marco, tel: 041<br />

2960252) Despite<br />

being so close to busy<br />

Piazza San Marco, this<br />

simple place serves<br />

authentic Venetian<br />

fare at honest prices.<br />

Choice is limited but<br />

you can’t go wrong<br />

with the daily specials.<br />

UP TO €30 Ai<br />

Tre Scaini (53C<br />

Calle Michelangelo,<br />

Giudecca, tel: 041<br />

5224790) Come to<br />

this down-to-earth<br />

trattoria for delicious<br />

seafood and other<br />

local dishes in a<br />

welcoming, homely<br />

atmosphere. It’s on<br />

Giudecca island, not<br />

far from the Zitelle<br />

vaporetto boat stop.<br />

UP TO €50 A<br />

Beccafi co (2801<br />

Campo Santo Stefano,<br />

tel: 041 5274879)<br />

Delicious Sicilian<br />

specialities are the<br />

name of the game<br />

at this smart, quality<br />

restaurant. Choose<br />

from satisfying pasta<br />

dishes, fresh tuna<br />

and swordfi sh steaks,<br />

creamy desserts<br />

and much more.<br />

Don’t miss the<br />

fruity sorbets.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Venissa (3<br />

Fondamenta Santa<br />

Caterina, Mazzorbo,<br />

tel: 041 5272281)<br />

Located on a historic<br />

wine estate on<br />

Mazzorba island -<br />

which is attached to<br />

Burano – Venissa is<br />

run by one of Italy’s<br />

best young chefs,<br />

Paola Budel. Creativity,<br />

fresh ingredients and<br />

memorable fl avours<br />

make a meal here<br />

a must for lovers<br />

of good food.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Caff è<br />

Florian (56–59<br />

Piazza San Marco,<br />

San Marco, tel: 041<br />

5205641) Dating from<br />

1720, Caff è Florian<br />

is one of Venice’s<br />

most prestigious<br />

landmarks. The<br />

atmospheric frescoed<br />

interiors have hosted<br />

prominent fi gures


Comune di Favignana<br />

Sicily’s Egadi Archipelago<br />

Sicily’s Egadi Archipelago, only a few kilometres west of Trapani, is comprised of three<br />

main islands, Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo, and the islets of Formica and Maraone. The largest<br />

of these is Favignana, home to 33km of magnifi cent coastline, and particularly easy to visit thanks to its<br />

numerous fl at roads, which are ideal for cyclists.<br />

The smallest island, Levanzo, has a surface area of only fi ve square kilometres. The ‘Genovese Grotto’ is<br />

found here – a prehistoric cave complete with images of men, beasts and fi sh, which date back to the<br />

Paleolithic and Neolithic eras. The jewel of the group is Marettimo, which the ancient Greeks considered<br />

sacred. Green and rugged it is home to various species absent throughout the rest of Sicily.<br />

NEAREST AIRPORT: PALERMO<br />

Visit www.egadiwelcome.it<br />

for tourist information and accommodation.<br />

50% discount off all brands<br />

ARMANI - AJ - BALENCIAGA - BOSS - BURBERRY<br />

CANALI - CAVALLI - D2 - DIOR - D&G - FENDI - GUCCI<br />

ICEBERG - LANVIN - LORO PIANA - MOSCHINO<br />

PRADA - STONE ISLAND - VERSACE - YSL - ZEGNA<br />

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK<br />

VIA OMBONI<br />

VIA RAMAZZINI<br />

VIALE REGINA GIOVANNA<br />

Metro M1 - red line<br />

Loreto<br />

Lima<br />

P.ta Venezia<br />

P.le Lavater<br />

Palestro<br />

San Babila<br />

Duomo<br />

Monday to Friday 10.00-19.00<br />

Saturday - 10.00 to 19.30<br />

Sunday 10.00 - 13.00<br />

15.30 - 19.00<br />

Via Ramazzini 11<br />

angolo P.le Lavater (MI)<br />

ph. +39 02 29514497<br />

A 150 mt. da Corso Buenos Aires<br />

150 mt. from Corso Buenos Aires


More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Venice<br />

Italy<br />

from politics<br />

and the arts over<br />

the centuries.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Collegium Ducale<br />

(4209 Palazzo delle<br />

Prigioni, Castello,<br />

tel: 041 988155) The<br />

former prison linked to<br />

the Doge’s Palace by<br />

the Bridge of Sighs is<br />

the splendid location<br />

for opera and Baroque<br />

concerts, held daily<br />

except Thursdays<br />

and Saturdays.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

La Bella Pollastrella<br />

(408 Fondamenta<br />

Venier, Cannaregio,<br />

tel: 041 5227613)<br />

Eight kinds of beer on<br />

tap, themed music<br />

nights and live bands<br />

as well as fi ngerlicking<br />

chicken dishes<br />

and tasty pizzas in a<br />

great location on the<br />

Cannaregio canal.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Gilberto<br />

Penzo is on a mission<br />

to preserve the<br />

magnifi cent Venetian<br />

boat-building culture.<br />

As well as restoring<br />

historic vessels, he<br />

makes reproductions<br />

and perfect scale<br />

models. Visit him at<br />

his shop where you<br />

can also buy DIY<br />

mini-gondola kits<br />

(2681 Calle Seconda<br />

dei Saoneri, San Polo,<br />

tel: 041 5246139,<br />

veniceboats.com).<br />

SEE Each year on<br />

Ascension Day, Venice<br />

celebrates its special<br />

relationship with the<br />

sea in a ceremony<br />

during which the<br />

<strong>may</strong>or throws a<br />

ring into the water<br />

between St Mark’s<br />

and Lido island.<br />

There’s also a regatta<br />

pageant, rowing<br />

races and colourful<br />

market stalls by the<br />

church of San Nicolo<br />

on Lido (Festa della<br />

Sensa, 20 May <strong>2012</strong>).<br />

GO Although the<br />

famous Biennale Art<br />

Festival is next held<br />

in 2013, it’s worth<br />

strolling as far as the<br />

Biennale Gardens to<br />

explore this attractive,<br />

less-frequented part<br />

of the city. See the<br />

curious structures<br />

of the various<br />

national pavilions<br />

used during the event.<br />

ESCAPE Take the<br />

train to Treviso (30<br />

minutes) and explore<br />

the pretty centre<br />

with its historic<br />

buildings and winding<br />

canals. While here<br />

enjoy a glass of<br />

sparkling locally<br />

made prosecco and<br />

try a risotto with<br />

the area’s famous<br />

red salad leaves –<br />

radicchio trevigiano.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

While in Venice,<br />

you’re bound to<br />

see numerous café<br />

tables laden with<br />

interesting-looking<br />

bright orange drinks.<br />

If you’re curious to<br />

try the city’s favourite<br />

cocktail, order a<br />

spritz. It’s made with<br />

light and fruity Aperol,<br />

prosecco and soda.<br />

Sarah Lane<br />

Verona<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

The Aerobus<br />

runs between<br />

the airport and the<br />

city centre every 20<br />

minutes. Tickets: €6.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Vecio<br />

Mulin (42A Via<br />

Sottoriva, tel: 045<br />

8065146) A historic<br />

trattoria with a<br />

riverside location. Sit<br />

on the narrow terrace<br />

over the water and<br />

feast on dishes such as<br />

bigoli (thick spaghetti)<br />

with sardines.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Osteria La Fontanina<br />

(3 Portichetti<br />

Fontanelle, tel: 045<br />

913305) Draped in ivy,<br />

this restaurant has<br />

been going strong for<br />

over two centuries.<br />

Deservedly sporting<br />

a Michelin star,<br />

the menu features<br />

imaginative dishes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Osteria<br />

Vienna City Tour & Schönbrunn Palace<br />

Le Vecete (32 Via<br />

Pellicciai) The city’s<br />

oldest wine-bar has it<br />

all – atmosphere, tasty<br />

snacks and best of all<br />

a fantastic selection<br />

of quality wines.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Interno 5 (35E Via<br />

Murari Bra) Fantastic<br />

cocktails and great<br />

music make this<br />

groovy lounge-bar a<br />

place worth seeking<br />

out. Come mingle with<br />

the beautiful people<br />

of Verona.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE If you’re in<br />

Verona on 13 May,<br />

head to the Bentegodi<br />

stadium to see Chievo<br />

play Lecce in the fi nal<br />

match of the Serie<br />

A season. Yellow and<br />

blue are the colours<br />

you’ll need to blend in.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The lady in the fountain<br />

in Piazza Erbe, known<br />

as Madonna Verona,<br />

represents the city.<br />

Sarah Lane<br />

PALAZZO<br />

VICTORIA<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

This beautiful,<br />

newly opened hotel,<br />

in the centre of<br />

Verona is idyllic. No<br />

attention to detail<br />

has been missed.<br />

From €211, book at<br />

palazzovictoria.com<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 179<br />

Vienna<br />

Austria<br />

DIALLING CODE +43<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The CAT trains to<br />

the centre leave<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €9 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Zum<br />

Schwarzen Kameel<br />

(5 Bognergasse, tel: 01<br />

533 8125) See if you<br />

can snatch an outdoor<br />

table at this supremely<br />

elegant sandwich bar<br />

where Beethoven once<br />

supped. An ideal place<br />

to watch passers by.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Walter Bauer (17<br />

Sonnenfelsgasse,<br />

tel: 01 512 9871) A<br />

discreet, old-fashioned<br />

charmer that off ers<br />

delectable Austrian<br />

fare, Walter Bauer is<br />

a good place to start<br />

if you’re looking for<br />

upmarket local cuisine.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

MAK-Café (5<br />

Euro 39,- (Schönbrunn Palace guided tour included)<br />

<br />

<br />

G<br />

Info: 0043 (0) 1 712 46 83 www.viennasightseeingtours.com<br />

Stubenring, tel: 01 714<br />

0121) Hidden away<br />

in the Museum of<br />

Applied Arts (MAK),<br />

this stylish haunt<br />

has many aces up its<br />

sleeve. Not least the<br />

garden, which comes<br />

into its own in May.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Pratersauna (135<br />

Waldsteingarten<br />

strasse) Once upon<br />

a time, this now-hip<br />

hangout was a fi tness<br />

club. DJs keep things<br />

ticking over with<br />

the freshest beats<br />

and blips. Open<br />

Wednesday to Sunday.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Those of a<br />

romantic disposition<br />

might enjoy wandering<br />

the avenues of the<br />

vast Zentralfriedhof<br />

cemetery. The tombs –<br />

many of them works of<br />

art in their own right –<br />

are practically a roll call<br />

of the city’s greats, with<br />

Beethoven, Brahms,<br />

Schubert, Schoenberg<br />

and several members<br />

of the Strauss family.<br />

Don’t miss the glorious<br />

Schloss Concordia<br />

restaurant, opposite.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Wien Museum has<br />

launched an unlikely<br />

contest to tie in with<br />

the 150th anniversary<br />

of painter Gustav<br />

Klimt’s birth. Worst of<br />

Klimt showcases the<br />

most tacky tributes to<br />

the artist ever made,<br />

with candidates so far<br />

including teddy bears<br />

and fl ip-fl ops.<br />

Nick Hodge/<br />

vienna-life.com


180 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />

Zagreb<br />

Croatia<br />

DIALLING CODE +385<br />

CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Dortmund,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

about 250HRK.<br />

The Pleso<br />

Prijevoz buses<br />

run to the city centre<br />

Tickets: 30HRK.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Pizzeria Kariola (16A<br />

Kranjceviceva, tel: 01<br />

366 7044) The locals<br />

love their pizza and you<br />

can enjoy a gorgeous,<br />

thin-crust pizza here<br />

with a tempting and<br />

generous choice<br />

of toppings.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Black<br />

Rock (30 Savska, tel:<br />

01 482 0555) It <strong>may</strong><br />

sound a bit lazy letting<br />

you cook your own<br />

steak, but you can<br />

cook your own slab<br />

of prime beef just the<br />

way you like it with<br />

a hearty glass of red<br />

wine to match at this<br />

popular eatery.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bacchus<br />

Jazz Bar (16 Trg<br />

Kralja Tomislava, tel:<br />

01 49 22 218) You<br />

don’t need to love<br />

jazz to enjoy this city<br />

centre temple to<br />

the beautiful genre<br />

of music, but it helps.<br />

Settle in for some<br />

smooth sounds and<br />

a cool cocktail.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Funk (52 Tkalciceva)<br />

This schizophrenic<br />

nightlife space has<br />

a pumping bar-club<br />

downstairs as well as<br />

a more laidback<br />

café upstairs. Take<br />

your pick or swap<br />

between them for<br />

two nights in one.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Tale of Two Cities –<br />

Zagreb began life<br />

as two separate<br />

communities: Gradec<br />

and Kaptol. They<br />

grew independently<br />

and today both<br />

still boast unique<br />

characters all of their<br />

own.<br />

robinmckelvie.com<br />

ST MARK’S<br />

CHURCH<br />

GO The historic<br />

oasis of the Upper<br />

Town, boasts cobbled<br />

streets, gorgeous<br />

churches, a fl urry of<br />

museums, plenty of<br />

bars and restaurants<br />

and views to boot.<br />

Ideal for a wander.<br />

Zante<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €13.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Castello Panorama<br />

(Limni Keriou, tel:<br />

26950 48708)<br />

You can enjoy<br />

unsurpassed views of<br />

the delightful bay from<br />

the terrace, which is<br />

set on a rocky outcrop,<br />

while selecting items<br />

from the wide menu<br />

of freshly caught fi sh<br />

and grilled meat, as<br />

well as all the usual<br />

dips and salads.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Porto Limnionas<br />

(Agios Leon, tel:<br />

26950 48650)<br />

Apart from the wide<br />

selection of tasty<br />

mezze plates and<br />

main dishes on off er<br />

here, you can enjoy<br />

splendid sunsets from<br />

the patio perched<br />

on a rocky outcrop<br />

above the sparkling<br />

waters. Try the rich<br />

rabbit stifado (stew) or<br />

courgette balls.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Venue Cocktail Bar<br />

(Kalamaki, tel: 26950<br />

22340) Livens up<br />

later but is best as<br />

a daytime or early<br />

evening watering hole,<br />

when you can enjoy a<br />

range of beers, wines<br />

and over 50 cocktails,<br />

whilst admiring the<br />

colourful fi sh tanks<br />

or catching a<br />

sporting event.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Insomnia (Main St,<br />

Laganas, tel: 26950<br />

52145) Another one<br />

of the major players<br />

on the strip’s main<br />

drag, which vies for<br />

the custom of young<br />

clubbers with a heady<br />

mix of dry ice, free<br />

shots and cuttingedge<br />

dance sounds.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SEE If you’re<br />

around on 3 May, the<br />

picturesque mountain<br />

village of Maherado<br />

hosts its annual<br />

festival of song and<br />

dance to celebrate<br />

the feast of the local<br />

church’s patron saint<br />

Agia Mavra.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In 1960, the remains of<br />

renowned Zakynthian<br />

poet Andreas Kalvos<br />

(1792–1869) were<br />

returned to the island<br />

from Lincolnshire,<br />

where he had lived out<br />

his last years with his<br />

English wife.<br />

Nick Edwards<br />

Zürich<br />

Switzerland<br />

DIALLING CODE +41<br />

CURRENCY CHF<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW,<br />

LTN), Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

MEETING HOTEL RESTAURANT CASINO EVENT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs 60CHF<br />

Trains leave<br />

the airport<br />

every 10 minutes.<br />

Tickets: 6.40CHF.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Eichhörnli (16<br />

Nietengasse, tel:<br />

044 241 11 28) The<br />

“squirrel” is the sort of<br />

place where the staff<br />

like to have a chat and<br />

make you feel at home<br />

quickly. There are<br />

many Swiss, French<br />

and Italian standards<br />

on the menu. The<br />

chef sticks to the<br />

seasons, and there’s<br />

a good selection<br />

of Swiss wines.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Clouds<br />

(5 Maagplatz, tel: 044<br />

404 30 00) On the<br />

top fl oor of the newly<br />

opened Prime Tower<br />

you can overlook<br />

the whole city while<br />

enjoying the excellent<br />

cuisine which<br />

marries fi ne dining<br />

classics and<br />

heavenly inspiration.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Mövenpick Wein Bar<br />

(1 Nüschelerstrasse,<br />

tel: 044 211 91 39) At<br />

the Mövenpick, you’ll<br />

fi nd around 250 wines<br />

from Switzerland<br />

and all around the<br />

world. Many of the<br />

wines are sold by<br />

the glass. Choose<br />

a glass of wine, sit<br />

back and relax.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Apartment 22 (22<br />

Neufrankengasse, tel:<br />

043 317 15 50) The<br />

huge windows of this<br />

club look straight<br />

onto the railway<br />

tracks. So close you<br />

can actually wave<br />

to the passengers<br />

while shaking your<br />

booty. The DJ spins<br />

mostly R’n’B, hip<br />

hop and disco.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO May is a perfect<br />

time for the lakeside.<br />

Start your walk at<br />

Bellevue and enjoy the<br />

park along the shore,<br />

take a break at one of<br />

the outdoor cafés or<br />

rent a boat at one<br />

of the rental places.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Zürich has more than<br />

43 museums with<br />

all kinds of exhibits<br />

from contemporary<br />

art right through to<br />

money itself – well,<br />

this is Zürich.<br />

Chris Young, zurich.<br />

inyourpocket.com<br />

EVENT HOTEL ON<br />

LAKE OF ZURICH<br />

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B&B_April_<strong>2012</strong>_Version3.indd 1


PHOTO © TONY FRENCH<br />

10<br />

PAGES OF<br />

NEWS AND<br />

UPDATES<br />

FROM<br />

BEHIND THE SCENES<br />

Airline captain Jean-Patrick Fays on the lows and highs of life in the skies<br />

EVER SINCE I WAS 10 years old, I’ve<br />

wanted to be a pilot. I went straight into<br />

fl ying once I fi nished my degree and<br />

have been at easyJet for eight years. It<br />

means working odd days and odd hours,<br />

but it provides the best offi ce with a<br />

view – from the fl ight deck, we get to see<br />

some amazing landscapes and sunsets.<br />

It’s a wonderful feeling to fl y and a huge<br />

responsibility.<br />

easyJet employs a great bunch<br />

of people from all over Europe, with<br />

diff erent backgrounds and cultures.<br />

This makes my work fun and a lot<br />

easier. The fl exibility and dynamism<br />

of our staff allows most problems to<br />

be solved effi ciently. It’s also nice to<br />

be able to fl y to diff erent places. My<br />

European geography knowledge has<br />

improved tremendously!<br />

No two days are the same at easyJet,<br />

but a typical shift starts in the crew<br />

room, where we get all the paperwork,<br />

and cabin crews and pilots brief each<br />

other. We then make our way to the<br />

aircraft in order to prepare it for the<br />

passengers. Most fl ights tend to be<br />

relatively short, but this suits me<br />

well, as take-off s and landings are my<br />

favourite bits.<br />

I grew up in Grenoble and learned to<br />

fl y in the Alps, and Geneva is still one of<br />

my favourite easyJet destinations. The<br />

approaches into the airport are<br />

beautiful, with wonderful views. Coming<br />

in on a morning, Mont Blanc welcomes<br />

you into the airport as the sun rises<br />

in the background. The airport is very<br />

effi cient, and a nice cup of coff ee with<br />

a mean piece of chocolate is always<br />

NEWS | OUR PEOPLE<br />

Captain Jean-Patrick Fay’s<br />

dream has come true<br />

close by during the turnaround. The city<br />

is elegant and a great place to spend<br />

the day – it’s the gateway to so many<br />

amazing places.<br />

In my spare time, I like to be in<br />

the mountains where I can practise<br />

climbing and skiing. I met my wife while<br />

I was learning to fl y, and we are lucky to<br />

have two wonderful boys that keep me<br />

on my toes. My family has always been<br />

very supportive of me.<br />

easyJet is a dynamic airline that is<br />

constantly expanding its network. I<br />

always try to progress in my career and<br />

seek new learning experiences, so – as<br />

long as the company will provide me<br />

with opportunities and development<br />

– I see myself working here for a long<br />

time. I feel very lucky to have realised<br />

my childhood dream.<br />

TRAVELLER | 183


CUSTOMER | CARE<br />

Great<br />

customer<br />

service<br />

We want you to have a superb<br />

experience onboard<br />

It’s important for us to know which of our<br />

pilots and cabin crew really shine – so we<br />

have created The easyJet Spirit Awards,<br />

to reward our people for the great service<br />

you receive.<br />

Please visit spirit.easyJet.com to let us<br />

know which of our crew has the “orange<br />

spirit”. We value your help! You’ll fi nd<br />

further details of how to get in touch with<br />

us in the yellow box below.<br />

We Need Your Help!<br />

Think any of our people have the<br />

orange spirit? Then let us know!<br />

★ Find out the name of the cabin crew<br />

member or pilot.<br />

★ Log on to spirit.easyJet.com and vote<br />

for them, giving your fl ight details, name,<br />

and email address. It’s as simple as that!<br />

Say “THANK YOU” and share the<br />

orange spirit!<br />

Wir brauchen Ihre Hilfe!<br />

Wer von uns hat den besten<br />

“Orange Spirit”?<br />

★ Der “Spirit Award” ist eine interne<br />

Auszeichnung, um denjenigen Kollegen<br />

How to Contact Us easyJet.custhelp.com<br />

Our customer<br />

services team<br />

is available to help<br />

you. They are open<br />

8am–8pm everyday<br />

(local times).*<br />

0843 104 5000<br />

184 | TRAVELLER<br />

0820 420 315<br />

199 201 840<br />

902 599 900<br />

01805 666 000<br />

0848 282 828<br />

0900 040 1048<br />

703 103 988<br />

easyJet Star<br />

Of The Month<br />

CHRISTIAN SOMERVILLE, cabin crew<br />

line trainer from Bristol, was one<br />

of our top performers in 2011. He<br />

says: “The easyJet Spirit Awards<br />

are an opportunity to recognise<br />

our fantastic crew, and it was a<br />

massive honour to attend the<br />

awards this year. easyJet is like a<br />

big family, so it was great to share<br />

pride with easyJet people from all<br />

over Europe.” If you think any of<br />

the crew on your fl ight today has<br />

showed their orange spirit, please<br />

let us know via spirit.easyJet.com<br />

oder Kollegin zu nominieren, der den<br />

besten Kundenservice leistet.<br />

★ Bitte helfen Sie uns, dieses Mitglied der<br />

Kabinenbesatzung bzw. diesen Piloten<br />

ausfi ndig zu machen, der diese Kriterien<br />

am besten erfüllt. Bitte besuchen Sie<br />

folgende Website: spirit.easyJet.com<br />

Vielen Dank, dass Sie Ihren “Orange<br />

Spirit” mit uns teilen.<br />

Nous avons besoin de vous!<br />

Qui a l'Orange Spirit?<br />

★ Les Spirit Awards est notre façon<br />

de reconnaître l'équipage de cabine<br />

et les pilotes qui offrent le meilleur<br />

service client.<br />

★ S'il vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à nous<br />

aider en visitant « spirit.easyJet.com » et<br />

nous communiquer le nom des personnes<br />

méritant une reconnaissance particulière.<br />

Merci de partager l'Orange Spirit!<br />

Abbiamo Bisogno del tuo aiuto!<br />

Chi ha lo Spirito Arancione?<br />

0820 320 950<br />

812 200 8999<br />

0601 90199<br />

458 988 1032<br />

9723 763 0561<br />

Rest of the world<br />

+44 843 104 5454<br />

* Please refer to<br />

easyJet.com for call<br />

charges. Calls <strong>may</strong> be<br />

recorded to improve<br />

your experience<br />

when travelling with<br />

or contacting us.<br />

★ La Spirit Awards è il nostro modo di<br />

riconoscere il personale di cabina ed i<br />

piloti che offrono il miglior servizio ai<br />

nostril clienti.<br />

★ Vi preghiamo di aiutarci visitando<br />

il sito spirit.easyJet.com e dirci chi<br />

dei nostri equipaggi si merita un<br />

riconoscimento speciale.<br />

Grazie per aver condiviso lo Spirito<br />

Arancione!<br />

Necesitamos tu ayuda!<br />

Quien tiene el espiritu Naranja?<br />

★ Los premios “Spirit Awards”<br />

son nuestra forma de reconocer a aquellos<br />

de nuestros tripulantes de cabina y<br />

pilotos que ofrecen la mejor atencion<br />

al cliente.<br />

★ Ayudenos por favor visitando<br />

spirit.easyJet.com y diciendonos que<br />

individuos cree usted que merecen un<br />

reconocimiento especial.<br />

Gracias por compartir con nosotros el<br />

espiritu naranja!<br />

In case of emergency while you are abroad, you can use one common number all over the EU free of charge: 112.<br />

This enables you to reach all emergency services (fi re, police, medical) in the 27 countries of the EU.<br />

Follow us on Twitter<br />

@easyJetCare<br />

to receive information<br />

on how to make your<br />

travel experience better.


Safety Onboard<br />

Whilst on board this fl ight we would ask that<br />

you consider your fellow passengers and<br />

also pay attention to the information below.<br />

Our cabin crew will be happy to answer<br />

any questions that you <strong>may</strong> have. Please<br />

remember that they are on board primarily for<br />

your safety but also for your comfort.<br />

★ Smoking<br />

Smoking on any easyJet fl ight is<br />

strictly forbidden, this includes<br />

the use of electronic cigarettes.<br />

★ Alcohol<br />

Alcoholic drinks are available on board as<br />

detailed in our retail brochure. These are<br />

served at the crew’s discretion to passengers<br />

of legal drinking age. While on board, you are<br />

only permitted to consume alcoholic drinks<br />

purchased from the easyJet Bistro. It is an<br />

off ence under Section 19 of the Air Navigation<br />

Order 2010 (Prohibited Behaviour) to be<br />

drunk on board an aircraft. The cabin crew<br />

reserve the right to stop serving alcohol to<br />

any passenger who is or appears to be drunk.<br />

Duty-free alcohol can be purchased from<br />

the easyJet Boutique (subject to route) but<br />

cannot be consumed on board.<br />

★ Your conduct on board<br />

In accordance with UK and International law,<br />

the Captain is in command of the aircraft and<br />

every person on board shall obey his or her<br />

lawful commands. Captains have the authority<br />

to take any actions they deem necessary<br />

to manage passengers who are disruptive<br />

or cause problems during fl ights, under the<br />

Prohibited Behaviour regulations quoted<br />

above. Our primary concern is for the safety<br />

or our passengers and crew. We have a<br />

zero-tolerance policy with regard to<br />

passengers who are verbally or physically<br />

disruptive towards any other person on board<br />

the aircraft. Crew are trained to deal with any<br />

such situations and will always put the safety<br />

of the aircraft, crew and other passengers fi rst.<br />

★ Safety equipment<br />

It is an off ence to tamper with or remove<br />

any safety equipment on board this aircraft,<br />

including the life jackets. Any such actions<br />

<strong>may</strong> jeopardise the safety of other passengers<br />

and lead to prosecution. As explained in the<br />

safety announcement, life cots for babies and<br />

life jackets for infants will be provided in the<br />

event of a landing on water.<br />

★ Safe stowage of your hand baggage<br />

Please ensure that your cabin baggage<br />

remains safely stowed for take-off and landing<br />

and at any time as instructed by the crew.<br />

Place small bags under the seat in front of you<br />

(unless you are seated in an emergency exit<br />

row); larger items must go in the overhead<br />

lockers. Place your bag securely in the locker<br />

and take care when opening lockers, as falling<br />

items <strong>may</strong> injure fellow passengers.<br />

★ Sharps boxes<br />

Hypodermic needles are<br />

permitted on board for medical<br />

use and should always be<br />

PASSENGER | INFO<br />

disposed of in a sharps box. If you need to<br />

dispose of a needle, or other sharp item,<br />

please contact a member of the cabin crew.<br />

★ Electronic devices<br />

In accordance with Civil Aviation Authority<br />

safety regulations, the use of devices for<br />

messaging, calls or internet access must<br />

remain switched off once the aircraft doors<br />

are closed.<br />

Some devices can be used during the fl ight<br />

(but not during take-off and landing), these<br />

include:<br />

★ Bluetooth devices, excluding telephones.<br />

★ Devices (including PDAs and smart phones)<br />

that have a fl ight-safe mode, provided this is<br />

enabled before the aircraft doors are closed.<br />

The device must then be switched off for<br />

take-off and again for landing.<br />

★ Laptops and tablet PCs including those with<br />

built-in WLAN/Wi-Fi, provided the WLAN/Wi-Fi<br />

is switched off prior to the doors being closed.<br />

★ Electronic games, ebooks, MP3, DVD and<br />

CD players, provided that any WLAN/Wi-Fi is<br />

switched off prior to the doors being closed.<br />

If in doubt, please keep devices switched off for<br />

the duration of the fl ight as they <strong>may</strong> interfere<br />

with our systems.<br />

Our Fleet Our Awards<br />

Hypodermic<br />

syringes<br />

Our aircraft are among the youngest in the world, with an average age of 4.1 years!<br />

AIRBUS A319 AIRBUS A320<br />

SEATING CAPACITY 156 180<br />

NUMBER OF CREW 2 pilots & 4 cabin crew 2 pilots & 4 cabin crew<br />

TAKE-OFF SPEED 240 km/h 240 km/h<br />

CRUISING SPEED 805 km/h 837 km/h<br />

RANGE 4,830km 4,910km<br />

NO. OF AIRCRAFT 162 48<br />

★ Best Low-Cost Airline,<br />

Business Traveller Magazine<br />

★ Best Low-Cost Airline in<br />

Europe for customer Product<br />

and Service Quality at the<br />

2011 World Airline Awards.<br />

★ Europe’s Leading Low-Cost<br />

Airline at the 2011 World<br />

Travel Awards, for the third<br />

consecutive year.<br />

TRAVELLER | 185


NOTICIAS | ESPAÑA<br />

easyJet Spirits<br />

Award: ¡Los<br />

premios más<br />

esperados del año!<br />

En easyJet nos encanta<br />

el mundo de la farándula<br />

y qué mejor que unos<br />

oscars al estilo naranja para<br />

codearnos con la jet set de la<br />

empresa. La gala se celebró<br />

en Eurodisney al más puro<br />

estilo hollywoodiense y los<br />

encargados de entregar los<br />

premios fueron la creme<br />

de la creme de la aerolínea<br />

encabezada por la Dir. General<br />

Carolyn McCall, el pasado 2 de<br />

febrero.<br />

En esta ocasión uno de<br />

los afortunados que se hizo<br />

con un “Spirit Award” fue<br />

Pedro Sánchez, nuestro cabin<br />

crew más jaenés, nombrado<br />

tripulante del año. ¡Cómo se<br />

nota que lleva la gracia en la<br />

sangre!.<br />

Dedicación, profesionalidad,<br />

esfuerzo e ilusión: los “Spirit<br />

Awards” reconocen a los<br />

mejores empleados de la<br />

compañía tras una votación<br />

entre sus 7.300 empleados y<br />

también entre los más de 54<br />

millones de pasajeros que, a<br />

lo largo del 2011, han viajado<br />

con la compañía. ¡Felicidades<br />

Pedro! ¡y mil gracias a<br />

vosotros!<br />

186 | TRAVELLER<br />

Gran Bretaña;<br />

infl uencias de todo<br />

el mundo fusionadas<br />

con la tradición<br />

británica.<br />

Gran Bretaña es una fi esta<br />

multicultural, hogar del fantástico<br />

Festival de las artes de Edimburgo,<br />

el festival del pop de Glastonbury,<br />

la Royal Shakespeare Company<br />

y mucho más. Aquí encontrarás<br />

algunos de los mejores museos del<br />

mundo, el distrito teatral londinense<br />

de West End e innumerables<br />

escenarios musicales que van desde<br />

estadios hasta íntimos clubs de<br />

cabaret.<br />

Todos sus rincones ocultan<br />

pedacitos de historia: altísimas<br />

catedrales, ruinas al aire libre y<br />

majestuosas casas. Descubre los<br />

misterios de Stonehenge, sigue los<br />

pasos de los poetas en el Distrito<br />

de los Lagos, descubre el lugar de<br />

nacimiento de Shakespeare en<br />

Stratford y siente la historia viva de la<br />

catedral de York o escuchar resonar<br />

las campanadas del Big Ben.<br />

Además, Gran Bretaña tiene más<br />

Rock and roll por metro cuadrado<br />

que ningún otro lugar del mundo ya<br />

que es uno de los principales centros<br />

de referencia de música del mundo.<br />

Copenhague, la ciudad de verde por<br />

excelencia 26,99 €<br />

¿Te gustaría visitar una de las ciudades<br />

más antiguas de Europa? Copenhague<br />

es mucho más que una ciudad, es<br />

historia, es sostenibilidad, es color… Es<br />

una ciudad donde reina la naturaleza<br />

y todos se rinden a sus pies. Edifi cios<br />

con décadas de recorrido en perfecto<br />

estado, el emblemático caso histórico<br />

y las callecitas estrechas, son los que<br />

hacen de Copenhague una ciudad única.<br />

El Puerto Nuevo, es la calle más<br />

bella de la ciudad. ¿Quién no ha visto<br />

alguna vez la típica fotografía en donde<br />

se refl ejan una línea casas de colorines<br />

y unas terracitas que se reparten a<br />

ambos lados del canal? Nyhayn, que es<br />

Desde Adele a Beatles y a Led<br />

Zeppelin, desde Land’s End a John<br />

O’Groats. La música es el corazón y<br />

el alma de UK.<br />

La moda también es otra de sus<br />

características. Posee un estilo único<br />

y ofrece tiendas tanto de diseño de<br />

alta costura, estrafalarias tiendas de<br />

artículos típicos, así como gangas.<br />

En Londres encontrarás boutiques<br />

de diseño, la tienda de zapatos más<br />

grande del mundo en Selfridges<br />

y mercados donde se vende<br />

absolutamente de todo. Y como<br />

no, Escocia, donde podrás hacerte<br />

con una falda típica, kilt, y comprar<br />

buen whisky directamente en las<br />

destilerías.<br />

Descubre más sobre Gran Bretaña<br />

en www.visitbritain.es.<br />

su nombre en danés, fue en su tiempo<br />

el epicentro de la zona pesquera de<br />

alrededores. Esta ciudad desprende luz<br />

por todas partes y Tivoli es un ejemplo<br />

de ello. Es el parque de atracciones<br />

más antiguo del mundo donde podéis<br />

disfrutar de espectáculos grandiosos,<br />

especialmente los de luces y sonidos<br />

que ofrecen a última hora.<br />

Y como no, ¿quién no conoce la<br />

famosa sirenita de Hans Christian<br />

Andersen? Es la estatua más<br />

fotografi ada del mundo y sin duda<br />

alguna el símbolo más identifi cativo de<br />

la ciudad. ¡te está esperando! ¡Y solo<br />

por 26,99€ por trayecto!


Una vacanza<br />

ideale. Anzi,<br />

quattro.<br />

Non sappiamo che tempo hai<br />

trovato oggi, ma è molto probabile<br />

che ci sia già aria d’estate. Stai già<br />

pensando alle vacanze? Anche noi,<br />

alle tue ovviamente. E vogliamo<br />

darti tutto quello che cerchi.<br />

Come passare ogni giorno su una<br />

spiaggia diversa e festeggiare la sera<br />

bevendo ouzo e ballando sirtaki.<br />

Per non parlare dei tuffi nel mare<br />

cristallino delle isole greche. Lo stai<br />

già immaginando? Vogliamo fartici<br />

volare già con la fantasia.<br />

Corfù, la famosa (voli da Milano<br />

Malpensa e Roma Fiumicino): è il<br />

buen retiro della famiglia reale greca<br />

e in passato ha ospitato persino<br />

Sissi, l’imperatrice d’Austria. Oggi<br />

puoi visitare la sua residenza, Villa<br />

Achilleion, e il suo vasto e rigoglioso<br />

giardino che arriva fi no al mare. A<br />

Corfù sono di casa molte celebrities<br />

e famosa è anche Paleokastritsa,<br />

la spiaggia dove approdò niente di<br />

meno che Ulisse. Attenzione a non<br />

dimenticare a casa la macchina<br />

fotografi ca.<br />

Santorini, la leggendaria (voli<br />

da Milano Malpensa e Roma<br />

Fiumicino): si dice che sia lei la<br />

mitica Atlantide, ma secondo noi<br />

è anche il Paese delle Meraviglie.<br />

Qui puoi trovare spiagge di tutti i<br />

colori (dalla Red alla White Beach),<br />

perfi no nere, di origine vulcanica.<br />

A proposito: ti consigliamo<br />

l’escursione del vulcano, meglio se<br />

di mattina presto, e un tuff o nelle<br />

A Nizza, per piacere o per lavoro.<br />

Un concerto dei Coldplay (il 22<br />

maggio), uno degli Scorpions (il 26)<br />

e il Festival Internazionale del Tango<br />

(dal 17 al 20). I pretesti per visitare<br />

Nizza non mancano, soprattutto in<br />

questo mese. Per chi invece deve venirci<br />

per lavoro, lavoriamo per rendere<br />

qualsiasi viaggio un piacere. Abbiamo<br />

sorgenti d’acqua sulfurea. Ne uscirai<br />

con una pelle nuova e liscissima. E<br />

questa non è solo una leggenda.<br />

Kos, la selvaggia (voli da Milano<br />

Malpensa): il suo simbolo è l’ibisco,<br />

che fi orisce in tutta l’isola. Ma a<br />

Kos ci sono anche foreste di pini e<br />

cipressi. L’albero più importante di<br />

tutti, comunque, è un platano storico:<br />

quello sotto il quale Ippocrate, padre<br />

della medicina, insegnava ai suoi<br />

allievi. Quest’isola piace molto ai<br />

fenicotteri, alle tartarughe di mare<br />

e alle foche monache. E anche agli<br />

esseri umani, naturalmente.<br />

Mykonos, la nottambula (voli<br />

da Milano Malpensa e Roma<br />

Fiumicino): se la tua idea di vacanza<br />

è solo ed esclusivamente relax, passa<br />

direttamente a un’altra delle mete<br />

che ti proponiamo in questa pagina.<br />

Perché la vera anima di Mykonos,<br />

quella che si accende soprattutto di<br />

sera, è fatta di feste e movida. Puoi<br />

partire dalla spiaggia di Paradise e poi<br />

spostarti verso il Cavo Paradiso o gli<br />

altri club lì attorno. Sarà comunque<br />

facile sentirti al settimo cielo.<br />

da poco aperto una nuova base proprio<br />

qui, a Nizza, e ogni settimana mettiamo<br />

a disposizione 3 voli da Napoli e<br />

Venezia e 7 da Roma per farti partire<br />

e soprattutto tornare in giornata.<br />

Perché siamo sinceri: la miglior<br />

compagnia è quella che ti aspetta<br />

a casa.<br />

How is your<br />

English?<br />

NOTIZIE | ITALIA<br />

Se hai voglia di ripassare un<br />

po’ l’inglese, abbiamo un<br />

metodo che scommettiamo ti<br />

piacerà: consiste nel viaggiare<br />

e fare conversation. A Londra<br />

non avrai di certo problemi<br />

a fare nuove conoscenze,<br />

soprattutto ora che<br />

l’atmosfera si sta scaldando<br />

in vista dei Giochi Olimpici<br />

e Paralimpici di agosto. A<br />

proposito, probabilmente in<br />

giro troverai già un sacco di<br />

gadget a tema. Perché non<br />

portartene qualcuno a casa<br />

come souvenir? D’altronde<br />

non si tratta di un evento<br />

che capita tutti i giorni. Ma<br />

non di solo sport vivono gli<br />

inglesi. Nel loro sangue, infatti,<br />

scorre musica. E se parliamo<br />

di musica, non possiamo<br />

non parlare di Liverpool, la<br />

culla artistica dei Beatles.<br />

Riascoltare le loro canzoni<br />

può essere un altro ottimo<br />

modo per allenare your British<br />

accent. Se vuoi davvero<br />

mettere alla prova la tua<br />

comprehension, invece, puoi<br />

assistere a uno spettacolo<br />

dello Unity Theatre. E se non<br />

sai l’inglese, pazienza. Niente<br />

ti vieta di regalarti comunque<br />

un weekend a Bristol. Tanto<br />

la bellezza del suo acquario<br />

e delle opere di Banksy che<br />

trovi sui muri della città può<br />

essere compresa da tutti.<br />

Soprattutto, non servono<br />

parole per commentarla.<br />

Inizia il tuo viaggio verso<br />

la Gran Bretagna, vola su<br />

easyJet.com.<br />

TRAVELLER | 187


DERNIÈRES INFOS/NEUIGKEITEN | SUISSE/SCHWEIZ<br />

Vacances sous<br />

le soleil<br />

portugais<br />

Que ce soit pour des vacances à la<br />

plage, une escapade citadine ou une<br />

découverte culturelle, le Portugal<br />

off rira des vacances pour tous les<br />

goûts.<br />

La ville de Porto vous surprendra<br />

avec ses petites ruelles et ses<br />

grandes caves à vin dans la Vila<br />

Nova de Gaia où vous pourrez<br />

déguster le fameux apéritif Porto. Et<br />

les alentours feront le bonheur des<br />

amateurs de plages à Mindelo et<br />

Espinho.<br />

Une autre ville à ne pas rater<br />

est Lisbonne. Un grand choix de<br />

musées, églises et parcs permet<br />

aux visiteurs de découvrir l‘histoire<br />

de la ville. Une excursion journalière<br />

vers Sintra ou vers le point le plus<br />

Ein Sommer in<br />

Portugal<br />

Ob Strandurlaub, Städtereise oder<br />

Kultururlaub, Portugal bietet eine<br />

gelungene Auszeit vom Alltag.<br />

Lass dich von der Hafenstadt<br />

Porto verzaubern und genieße<br />

den berühmten Portwein in den<br />

Weinkellern der Vila Nova de Gaia!<br />

Auch die Umgebung Portos ist<br />

einen Besuch wert. Wasserratten<br />

können sich am Strand von Mindelo<br />

bei Vila do Conde, 32 km nördlich<br />

von Porto gelegen, sowie an den<br />

Stränden von Espinho austoben und<br />

der Wallfahrtsort Braga lockt mit<br />

beeindruckenden Barockbauten.<br />

Weiter südlich an der<br />

Atlantikküste liegt Lissabon.<br />

Portugals Hauptstadt versprüht<br />

einen ganz besonderen Charme.<br />

Eine große Auswahl an Parks,<br />

Kirchen und Museen sorgt für<br />

188 | TRAVELLER<br />

occidental d‘Europe à Cabo da Roca<br />

est également recommandée.<br />

Plus au sud se trouve la ville de<br />

Faro dans l‘Algarve. Cette région<br />

est particulièrement appréciée à<br />

cause de ses 3000 heures de soleil<br />

annuelles et plus de 150 km de<br />

côtes. Envolez-vous au départ de<br />

Genève plusieurs fois par jour vers<br />

Porto, Lisbonne ou Faro à partir de<br />

42,45 CHF*.<br />

Abwechslung und ereignisreiche<br />

Tage. Ein Abstecher zum<br />

westlichsten Punkt Europas<br />

bei Cabo da Roca ist ebenfalls<br />

lohnenswert und die Stadt Sintra ist<br />

perfekt für einen Tagesausfl ug.<br />

Seit April geht es neu ab Basel-<br />

Freiburg auch nach Faro. Die<br />

malerische Stadt an der Algarve<br />

überzeugt durch ihre urige Altstadt<br />

und beeindruckende Stadtmauer.<br />

Ab Basel-Freiburg fl iegen wir dich<br />

bis zu viermal in der Woche nach<br />

Lissabon, achtmal wöchentlich nach<br />

Porto und dreimal in der Woche nach<br />

Faro ab 42,45 CHF*.<br />

*One-Way, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge.<br />

*Tarif aller simple TTC. Des frais variables s’appliquent pour les bagages en soute. Certains moyens de paiement occasionnent des frais fi xes supplémentaires.<br />

Escapade à Tel Aviv<br />

Vous ne pouvez pas choisir entre vacances<br />

de plage et escapade en ville ? Combinez<br />

les deux en vous rendant à Tel Aviv. Faites un<br />

tour sur les divers marchés qui<br />

permettent d’interagir avec les habitants<br />

et de découvrir trésors et antiquités.<br />

A ne pas manquer est la Ville Blanche.<br />

Il s‘agit d‘un quartier de style Bauhaus,<br />

classé au patrimoine mondial de l‘UNESCO.<br />

Pour se reposer de la vie animée d‘une<br />

grande ville, une promenade au bord de<br />

la mer est parfaite. 13 km de plages vous<br />

attendent.<br />

Découvrez cette ville variée et pleine<br />

d‘énergie. Nous off rons jusqu‘à 4 vols par<br />

semaine au départ de Genève vers Tel Aviv à<br />

partir de 46,45 CHF*.<br />

You Tube<br />

Le saviez-vous ? easyJet Suisse est<br />

désormais sur YouTube!<br />

Venez découvrir ou redécouvrir nos<br />

spots publicitaires, nos vidéos et nos<br />

campagnes. Nous vous réservons bien des<br />

surprises! Rendez-vous vite sur YouTube.<br />

com/user/easyJetEnSuisse.<br />

Abwechslung an der<br />

Küste Israels<br />

Wer sich zwischen Strand- und Stadturlaub<br />

nicht entscheiden kann, ist in Tel Aviv genau<br />

richtig. Diverse Märkte ermöglichen es den<br />

Besuchern sich unter das Volk zu mischen<br />

und die Strandpromenade, die den 13 km<br />

langen Strand säumt, lädt zum Flanieren ein.<br />

Ein Highlight ist die Weiße Stadt,<br />

die sich durch den Bauhausstil von<br />

den anderen Stadtvierteln abhebt und<br />

im Jahr 2003 von der UNESCO zum<br />

Weltkulturerbe erklärt wurde.<br />

In der zweitgrößten Stadt Israels fehlt<br />

es natürlich nicht an Bars und Nachtclubs!<br />

Nachtschwärmer kommen insbesondere<br />

im alten Hafen auf ihre Kosten.<br />

Ob Kulturbegeisterter, Sonnenanbeter<br />

oder Partylöwe, wir fl iegen dich ab Basel-<br />

Freiburg bis zu viermal in der Woche nach<br />

Tel Aviv bereits ab 48,45 CHF*.<br />

YouTube<br />

Schon gewusst? easyJet Schweiz hat jetzt<br />

auch einen YouTube-Kanal. Endlich kannst<br />

du dir die älteren und neuen Werbespots,<br />

unsere tollen Sketche der Komikerin<br />

Marie-Thérèse Porchet und unseren Film<br />

vom Überraschungsfl ug anschauen.<br />

Überzeuge dich selbst! Wir freuen uns<br />

über Kommentare und neue Abonnenten!<br />

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK


Süßes<br />

Sommerleben<br />

im Süden<br />

Im Sommer verwandeln sich<br />

Südeuropas Städte: Sonnige<br />

Tage und milde Nächte sorgen<br />

für ein buntes Treiben und heitere<br />

Gelassenheit auf Plätzen, in<br />

Straßencafés und Altstadtgassen.<br />

Voll Temperament und Leidenschaft<br />

diskutiert, lacht und tanzt man<br />

bis in die frühen Morgenstunden,<br />

wenn sich erste Düfte von<br />

frischgebackenen Croissants und<br />

Kaff ee mit der klaren Morgenluft<br />

mischen. Ob du lieber in Italiens<br />

Hauptstadt Rom auf dem Campo<br />

de’ Fiori das süße Leben und die<br />

römische Nacht genießt oder du in<br />

der toskanischen Studentenstadt<br />

Pisa Lebensfreude und verborgene<br />

Arkaden erkundest, mit uns startest<br />

du in den italienischen Sommer!<br />

Im Nachbarland Frankreich kostest<br />

du das mediterrane Leben in Nizza<br />

an der legendären Côte d’Azur!<br />

Mit ihrer prachtvollen, von Palmen<br />

und Villen gesäumten Uferstraße,<br />

der Promenade des Anglais, und<br />

der italienisch geprägten Altstadt<br />

„Vieux Nice“ verströmt Nizza<br />

einen ganz besonderen Charme.<br />

Provenzalische Genüsse treff en<br />

auf fangfrische Delikatessen und<br />

Windeltasche und<br />

Babyfl asche<br />

Endlich Urlaub! Damit euer Urlaub<br />

mit der ganzen Familie bereits bei der<br />

Anreise beginnt, und ihr euch hier an<br />

Bord entspannt zurücklehnen könnt,<br />

haben wir für euch alle Infos zum<br />

Reisen mit Kindern auf einer neuen<br />

Familienseite unter easyjet.com/familien<br />

zusammengestellt! Werft doch einfach<br />

mal einen Blick drauf! Wir würden uns<br />

freuen, euch alle bald wieder bei uns an<br />

Bord begrüßen zu dürfen!<br />

die Ursprünglichkeit der Provence<br />

auf Beach-Clubs und den Chic<br />

einer der berühmtesten Küsten der<br />

Welt! Und auch in der spanischen<br />

Metropole Barcelona kombinierst<br />

du nach Lust und Laune Sightseeing<br />

mit anschließendem Chill-out am<br />

Strand! Gut ausgeruht, startest du<br />

mit Tapas in den Altstadtvierteln<br />

Barri Gotic und El Raval oder in der<br />

stylischen Oase des „Cachitos“<br />

nahe der Flaniermeile Rambla in<br />

den Abend, bevor du in Barcelonas<br />

Clubs die Nacht zum Tag machst!<br />

La Dolce Vita, Savoir-vivre oder Viva<br />

la Vida? Genieße den Sommer in<br />

vollen Zügen und buche frühzeitig<br />

deine Sommerfl üge von Berlin und<br />

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sowie von Berlin nach Nizza und Pisa<br />

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und Aufgabegepäck zu deinen Flügen<br />

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NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCHLAND<br />

Open-Air-Sommer<br />

Nordlicht oder Sonne<br />

des Südens? Entscheide<br />

selbst was dich mehr rockt!<br />

Partytechnisch haben es<br />

die beiden Metropolen<br />

Kopenhagen und Lissabon auf<br />

jeden Fall voll drauf:<br />

6.-15. Juli: Copenhagen Jazz<br />

Festival – 10 Tage an rund 100<br />

Plätzen etwa 1000 Live-Acts,<br />

Kopenhagen<br />

20.-26. August: STRØM setzt<br />

mit elektronischer Musik<br />

vom Feinsten sechs Tage<br />

lang die Stadt unter „Strom“,<br />

Kopenhagen<br />

Wir fl iegen dich ganzjährig<br />

bis zu zweimal täglich<br />

von Berlin in die dänische<br />

Hauptstadt Kopenhagen ab<br />

29,49 €*!<br />

29. Juni: Das EDP CoolJazz<br />

Fest präsentiert Sting im<br />

Park der Poeten, Oeiras bei<br />

Lissabon<br />

13.-15. Juli: Optimus Alive<br />

Festival – cooles Line-up<br />

von The Cure bis Radiohead,<br />

Lissabon<br />

28. Juli bis 4. August: Boom<br />

Festival – „Goa meets Portugal“<br />

gigantisches Vollmond-<br />

Happening am See samt<br />

Boom-Bus-Airport-Shuttle ab<br />

Lissabon, Idanha-a-Nova<br />

Ins portugiesische Lissabon<br />

geht’s mit uns das ganze Jahr<br />

ab Berlin bis zu dreimal in der<br />

Woche ab 71,49 €*!<br />

* Flugpreise: One-Way-Preis pro Person basierend auf 2 Passagieren, die mit der gleichen Buchung reisen, inklusive 11 € Bearbeitungsgebühr und Flughafensteuer, zuzüglich Kreditkartengebühr und variabler Kosten für<br />

Aufgabegepäck. Weitere Informationen auf easyJet.com. Stand: 12. März <strong>2012</strong>. Jetzt buchbar: SXFBCN, SXFFCO, SXFNCE, SXFPSA, SXFLIS, SXFCPH Preise für Reisen zwischen dem 11.05.<strong>2012</strong> und 02.06.<strong>2012</strong>; BERBCN,<br />

BERFCO, BERNCE, BERPSA, BERLIS, BERCPH Preise für Reisen zwischen dem 03.06.<strong>2012</strong> und 27.10.<strong>2012</strong>; DUSFCO, DTMBCN Preise für Reisen zwischen dem 11.05.<strong>2012</strong> und 27.10.<strong>2012</strong>.<br />

TRAVELLER | 189


DERNIERES INFOS | FRANCE<br />

Du nouveau sur<br />

l’enregistrement<br />

en ligne !<br />

L’enregistrement en ligne est<br />

disponible gratuitement pour<br />

les passagers voyageant avec<br />

et sans bagage en soute.<br />

Vous pouvez désormais<br />

vous enregistrer et imprimer<br />

votre carte d’embarquement<br />

au minimum 30 jours avant le<br />

départ de votre vol.<br />

N’hésitez pas à vous<br />

enregistrer en ligne par les<br />

manières suivantes :<br />

■ en choisissant l’option de<br />

l’enregistrement en ligne lors<br />

de la réservation sur www.<br />

easyJet.com<br />

■ en choisissant l’option de<br />

l’enregistrement en ligne<br />

via Mon easyJet – disponible<br />

seulement si vous avez<br />

eff ectué votre réservation via<br />

www.easyJet.com<br />

■ en choisissant l’onglet<br />

« S’enregistrer en ligne » sur<br />

notre page d’accueil www.<br />

easyJet.com, se trouvant en<br />

bas à droite<br />

Nous vous rappelons<br />

qu’il est vivement conseillé<br />

d’arriver à la porte<br />

d’embarquement au moins<br />

40 minutes avant le départ<br />

de votre vol. Anticipez et<br />

passez les portiques de<br />

sécurité dès votre arrivée<br />

pour ne pas rater le départ de<br />

votre vol.<br />

190 | TRAVELLER<br />

Authentique<br />

et festif<br />

VISITEZ GUIMARÃES ET LE NORD<br />

DU PORTUGAL, PATRIMOINE<br />

MONDIAL DE L’UNESCO,<br />

En <strong>2012</strong>, une raison de plus pour<br />

visiter le nord du Portugal. Cette<br />

année, Guimarães avec son centre<br />

historique inscrit au patrimoine<br />

mondial de l’Unesco, est la capitale<br />

européenne de la culture. Découvrez<br />

tout au long de l’année plus de 600<br />

spectacles théâtraux et d’arts de<br />

rue. Découvrez également dans les<br />

environs, Braga, capitale européenne<br />

de la jeunesse et célébrant la<br />

créativité.<br />

Profi tez-en pour visiter les<br />

nombreuses autres parties du<br />

patrimoine mondial situées dans<br />

la région du Nord. Prenez plaisir à<br />

explorer les trésors cachés du centre<br />

historique de Porto, ses rues et ses<br />

maisons typiques.<br />

Du 7 au 10 Juin, Porto accueille le<br />

Primavera Sound, l’un des plus grands<br />

festivals de musique au monde.<br />

A Porto, embarquez pour une<br />

croisière qui vous fera découvrir la<br />

superbe région viticole du Haut-<br />

Douro, et ses profondes vallées,<br />

mères du Vinho do Porto. Visitez les<br />

fermes et dégustez les meilleurs vins<br />

OU TOUT SIMPLEMENT DE<br />

FAIRE PARTAGER VOTRE JOIE ET<br />

EXPÉRIENCE EASYJET ?<br />

N’HÉSITEZ PLUS !<br />

Avec la toute nouvelle fonctionnalité<br />

« Partagez votre voyage » de<br />

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permettez à tous vos proches de vivre<br />

votre vol avec vous.<br />

Publiez votre réservation via Facebook,<br />

Twitter et e-mails. Créez « un rappel<br />

d’enregistrement » directement<br />

synchronisé avec votre calendrier sur<br />

mobile.<br />

PARTAGEZ EN TOUTE FACILITÉ !<br />

En publiant votre réservation sur vos<br />

comptes Facebook, Twitter… vous<br />

de la région.<br />

A Vila Nova de Foz Côa, dans<br />

la Région du Nord, retournez aux<br />

origines de l’humanité, il y a 25 000<br />

ans, et pénétrez au cœur de l’art<br />

paléolithique sur un territoire de 17<br />

kilomètres de long.<br />

Tradition, culture, histoire,<br />

architecture, cuisine et vins, paysages,<br />

hospitalité, festivités et joie des<br />

habitants sont les plus beaux atouts<br />

de cette région. Porto et le Nord:<br />

l’essence du Portugal.<br />

Nouveau : Porto au départ de<br />

Toulouse, jusqu’à 3 vols par semaine<br />

à partir de 34€, aller simple et taxes<br />

incluses.<br />

Départs vers Porto depuis Paris<br />

CDG et Lyon également.<br />

Envie de faire des envieux ?<br />

donnez la possibilité à vos proches de<br />

faire la même réservation via le lien de<br />

l’application easyJet également visible.<br />

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easyJet.<br />

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Créez un rappel qui sera directement<br />

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et qui vous informera de l’ouverture de<br />

votre enregistrement et du départ de<br />

votre vol.<br />

Application disponible en 5 langues<br />

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK


Europe’s Best<br />

Festivals<br />

As summer draws closer, so does<br />

another festival season. And while the<br />

UK can undoubtedly off er some of the<br />

season’s best music events, it can’t<br />

always promise balmy climes, clear blue<br />

skies and mud-free fi elds. We’ve taken<br />

a look across Europe and discovered<br />

some fantastic festivals where<br />

(hopefully) no wellies are required.<br />

SONAR – FLY TO BARCELONA,<br />

14-16 JUNE<br />

Few cities in the world can party<br />

like Barcelona and few festivals can<br />

compare to Sonar. Bringing together<br />

DJs, musicians and revellers from<br />

across Europe and beyond, this<br />

cosmopolitan celebration centres<br />

on the city’s Raval district by day,<br />

before heading to the town outskirts<br />

for a selection of night-time soirees.<br />

Confi rmed acts for this year include<br />

Fatboy Slim, Friendly Fires and girl<br />

of the moment Lana Del Rey. And,<br />

once the party is over, you can enjoy<br />

the sights, shops and beaches of this<br />

spectacular seaside city that has it all.<br />

We fl y to Barcelona from Gatwick, Luton,<br />

Stansted, Southend, Bristol, Liverpool,<br />

Newcastle and Belfast International<br />

from £44.99*.<br />

ROSKILDE – FLY TO COPENHAGEN,<br />

5-8 JULY<br />

As it takes a fallow year, those missing<br />

the charms of Glastonbury should<br />

The Jubilee Bank Holiday weekend is<br />

fast approaching and while London<br />

will no doubt be the focal point of<br />

celebrations marking the Queen’s<br />

60-year reign, those looking for<br />

something a little bit diff erent should<br />

head for Gibraltar. Sitting right at<br />

the bottom of Spain, at the entrance<br />

to the Mediterranean and just a<br />

hop, skip and jump from Morocco,<br />

seek salvation within its Scandinavian<br />

counterpart, Roskilde, the largest music<br />

festival in northern Europe. Set up by<br />

hippies in the early 1970s, this<br />

not-for-profi t humanitarian festival<br />

brings some of music’s biggest acts<br />

to the Danish countryside. Headliners<br />

this year include The Cure, Bruce<br />

Springsteen and the E Street Band, and<br />

possibly Iceland’s fi nest export, Björk.<br />

The festival’s campsite is at the very<br />

heart of its experience, covering an<br />

impressive 80 hectares and featuring<br />

separate areas for guests to cook, party<br />

and even store luggage. Those keen to<br />

return to Roskilde can take part in the<br />

Naked Run. This annual race around the<br />

campsite awards the fi rst nude male<br />

and female past the fi nishing post with<br />

tickets for next year’s event.<br />

We fl y to Copenhagen from Gatwick,<br />

Stansted and Manchester from £34.49*.<br />

Gibraltar’s Jubilee Celebrations<br />

this fi ercely patriotic British Overseas<br />

Territory is dappled with sunshine and<br />

sprinkled with pomp and ceremony.<br />

Her Majesty will be honoured<br />

throughout June in a wide range of<br />

celebrations, including street parties,<br />

the lighting of a beacon, an international<br />

regatta and a very special birthday<br />

parade. And, while you’re there,<br />

don’t forget to pay a visit to the<br />

NEWS | UK<br />

STOP MAKING SENSE – FLY TO<br />

SPLIT, 2-6 AUGUST<br />

Set against the backdrop of the stunning<br />

Adriatic coast in the pretty town of Tisno,<br />

Stop Making Sense (pictured) off ers a<br />

fabulous combination of sun, sea and<br />

celebration. Curated by music-loving<br />

promoters, including secretsundaze,<br />

Dalston Superstore and Electric Minds,<br />

and featuring DJ sets from the likes of<br />

Move D, Lil’ Louis and Hannah Holland,<br />

this fi ve-day fi esta is not to be missed.<br />

Promising to be music festival and<br />

summer getaway rolled into one, other<br />

highlights of this unique and intimate<br />

aff air include daily boat parties, a private<br />

beach complete with its own tiki bar and<br />

an after hours, open-air nightclub where<br />

you can dance till the small hours under<br />

the Croatian stars.<br />

We fl y to Split from Gatwick, Stansted<br />

and Bristol from £51.49*.<br />

much-loved Barbary apes. As<br />

the only wild primates in Europe,<br />

Winston Churchill brought new<br />

troops of the critters to The Rock<br />

during World War II after learning of<br />

the famous legend, claiming that if<br />

these monkeys ever leave Gibraltar,<br />

then British Rule will cease!<br />

We fl y to Gibraltar from Gatwick and<br />

Liverpool from £59.49*.<br />

*Prices one way per person based on 2 people travelling on the same booking. Price correct as at 27 March <strong>2012</strong>. For travel from 1 May to 27 October <strong>2012</strong>. Additional credit card & baggage fees apply. See easyJet.com for details<br />

TRAVELLER | 191


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Why millions<br />

of business<br />

people fly<br />

with us<br />

(It’s got nothing to do<br />

with free pretzels)<br />

Last year 9.5 million<br />

professionals chose to fl y<br />

easyJet. We don’t do business<br />

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salty snacks; instead we focus<br />

on making business fl ights<br />

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Find out why our fl ights make<br />

business sense.<br />

NEWS | BUSINESS TRAVEL<br />

We’ll change your fl ight if your meeting changes<br />

Our fl exi fares mean you can change your fl ight as many<br />

times as you like within a four week period, and they’re<br />

available from as little as £100.99*, one way. You’ll also get<br />

Speedy Boarding with your Flexi ticket.<br />

We’ll get you there on time<br />

In 2011 84% of our fl ights landed on time, making us one of<br />

the most punctual airlines in Europe. And we fl y business<br />

routes regularly throughout the day, so we’ll have a fl ight<br />

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We’ll fl y you closer to the boardroom table<br />

We fl y more of the top 100 European routes than any<br />

other airline. And we fl y to major airports so you’ll always<br />

land close to your meeting.<br />

Find more reasons to choose business sense at<br />

business.easyJet.com<br />

*For travel within the next 120 days, departing from the UK to any easyJet destination. Flexi ticket allows unlimited date changes in a fi xed 4 week period, subject to<br />

availability, for changes made at least 2 hours before original departure. For full details see business.easyJet.com.<br />

TRAVELLER | 193


LAST WORD | LILLE<br />

194 | TRAVELLER<br />

Baker<br />

Alex Croquet<br />

on Lille<br />

“This is an atmospheric city. The bells<br />

from the Belfry ring every half hour<br />

and have been telling the people of<br />

Lille the time for nearly a century. It<br />

forms part of the gentle rhythm of<br />

this city that I love so much. From Le<br />

Carnot, an unfi nished 17th-century<br />

building that’s now a restaurant, the<br />

views straight across to the Belfry are<br />

astounding. Sit here and you’ll get a<br />

real perspective on Lille’s pace of life.”<br />

Alex Croquet supplies top restaurants throughout<br />

France and Belgium. His new bakery, Alex Croquet, Fou<br />

de Pain, opened in March at 66 Rue Esquermoise, Lille<br />

WORDS NICK HASLAM | PHOTO © LAURENT GHESQUIÈRE


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