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TRAVELLER<br />
Making<br />
Waves<br />
All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />
in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />
offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />
Achtung Ac Acht ht htun un ung g Ba Baby Baby! by by!<br />
An iins<br />
insider’s nsid id ider er er’s ’s guide g ggui<br />
ui uide de to tto<br />
th the<br />
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From Fr F om A(rancini) A(r (r (ran an a ci cini ni) ) to<br />
Z(apiekanka)<br />
Z( Z ap apie ieka kank nka) a)<br />
A glossary gl g os ossa sary ry of<br />
th the<br />
e<br />
network’s ne n tw twor or o k’ k’s s most mo most st<br />
delicious de d li l ci ciou ou o s st stre street re reet et foo f ffood<br />
oo ood<br />
Tomb To Tomb mb m Rai RRaiders<br />
ai aide de d rs r<br />
Indulge In I du dulg lg lge e your yo y ur u i iinn<br />
inner nn nner er e<br />
In Indi Indiana di d an ana a Jo Jone Jones ne nes s in t tthe<br />
the he<br />
ancient anc a nc ncie ie ient nt n ruins r rrui<br />
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MAY M <strong>2012</strong><br />
2<br />
*YOUR *YO YOUR FREE REEE COPY CCOPY<br />
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TRAVELLER<br />
Making<br />
Waves<br />
All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />
in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />
offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />
Achtung Ac Acht ht htun un ung g Ba Baby Baby! by by!<br />
An iins<br />
insider’s nsid id ider er er’s ’s guide g ggui<br />
ui uide de to tto<br />
th the<br />
e best be best st of f Be Berl Berlin rlin in<br />
From Fr F om A(rancini) A(r (r (ran an a ci cini ni) ) to<br />
Z(apiekanka)<br />
Z( Z ap apie ieka kank nka) a)<br />
A glossary gl g os ossa sary ry of<br />
th the<br />
e<br />
network’s ne n tw twor or o k’ k’s s most mo most st<br />
delicious de d li l ci ciou ou o s st stre street re reet et foo f ffood<br />
oo ood<br />
Tomb To Tomb mb m Rai RRaiders<br />
ai aide de d rs r<br />
Indulge In I du dulg lg lge e your yo y ur u i iinn<br />
inner nn nner er e<br />
In Indi Indiana di d an ana a Jo Jone Jones ne nes s in t tthe<br />
the he<br />
ancient anc a nc ncie ie ient nt n ruins r rrui<br />
ui u ns of o f Cyprus Cy C pr prus us u<br />
MAY M <strong>2012</strong><br />
2<br />
*YOUR *YO YOUR FREE REEE COPY CCOPY<br />
COP COPY<br />
TO TTO<br />
TAKE AK KE E AWAY AW WITH TH THY YOU Y YYOU<br />
YYOU<br />
YOU
MAY <strong>2012</strong> | ISSUE 125<br />
<br />
Our spring and<br />
summer Boutique<br />
& Bistro is packed<br />
full of gifts and<br />
essentials. We have<br />
tasty snacks and<br />
drinks, plus save<br />
money with one of<br />
our great-value menu<br />
deals on page 49.<br />
For gents, we have<br />
cool gadgets and<br />
gifts, including a<br />
waterproof Aqua<br />
Phone Case (page<br />
26), stylish stainlesssteel<br />
Skagen watch<br />
(page 24) or the<br />
Ralph Lauren Big<br />
Pony Collection of<br />
fragrances (page 12).<br />
Ladies will love<br />
Flowerbomb La Vie<br />
en Rose, a fresh<br />
scent for summer<br />
(page 5) and the<br />
Bourjois Summer<br />
Lovin’ Make-up Kit,<br />
containing four<br />
make-up bag<br />
essentials (page 20).<br />
Accessorise your<br />
look with our funky<br />
Disaster Design<br />
purses (page 21).<br />
For kids of all ages,<br />
Gulliver and Lily are<br />
back and have gone<br />
sports mad (page<br />
31). Plus enjoy some<br />
family fun with Rory’s<br />
Story Cubes (page<br />
30). And when they<br />
are feeling hungry,<br />
we have a new kids’<br />
snack box with<br />
activities (page 40).<br />
FEATURES<br />
46 Insider’s Guide<br />
to Berlin<br />
From the best clubs<br />
to the hottest hotels,<br />
fi ve local experts<br />
reveal their city picks<br />
53 A-Z of<br />
Street Food<br />
Join us for a<br />
gastronomic tour<br />
of our network,<br />
sourcing the best<br />
quick, cheap eats<br />
60 The New Wave<br />
The surf is defi nitely<br />
up in Ericeira, Europe’s<br />
fi rst designated World<br />
Surfi ng Reserve<br />
68 High and Mighty<br />
Few can match the<br />
equestrian feats of the<br />
French riding school<br />
Cadre Noir. We visited<br />
for a lesson<br />
72 Tomb Raiders<br />
Cyprus isn’t just sun,<br />
sea and sand. We<br />
channel Indiana Jones<br />
to explore 10,000<br />
years of island history<br />
82 A Diff erent View<br />
How Majorca is<br />
reclaiming its ritzy<br />
crown as an upscale<br />
holiday destination<br />
88 Artists’ Retreat<br />
Visit Calcata, a hilltop<br />
village near Rome,<br />
home to a uniquely<br />
cultural community<br />
60<br />
COVER IMAGE ELIZABETH GIBSON | PHOTOS OLIVER PILCHER, GETTY, SCOTT CHAMBERS contents<br />
72<br />
TRAVELLER | 3
MAY <strong>2012</strong> | ISSUE 125<br />
contents<br />
20<br />
THE BUZZ<br />
8 A hip-hop dance tour hits the UK<br />
10 Gossip from across the network<br />
13 Manx beaches | Amsterdam’s new tattoo<br />
museum | Be a Parisian chef<br />
14 Queen spotting in London | Walking tours<br />
16 We meet former world 100m champion<br />
Maurice Greene<br />
19 Art at festivals, fairs and on the streets<br />
20 Copenhagen’s café culture<br />
22 London’s best stays for the <strong>2012</strong> Games<br />
25 Bilbao baby jumping<br />
26 Glasgow street style<br />
28 Cycling in Provence| Colditz hotel |<br />
photo competition<br />
30 Walks around Jersey<br />
32 Three of the best foodie adventures<br />
35 Book ahead<br />
36 Club season highlights in Ibiza<br />
40 Hotel news and reviews<br />
42 Restaurant reviews<br />
98 Route map<br />
100 Destination guides<br />
LAST WORD<br />
183 Meet the crew<br />
184 Passenger info<br />
186 Espana<br />
187 Italia<br />
188 Suisse/<br />
Schweiz<br />
4 | TRAVELLER<br />
189 Deutschland<br />
190 France<br />
191 UK<br />
193 Business news<br />
194 Baker Alex<br />
Croquet on Lille<br />
25<br />
14<br />
EDITORIAL & ART<br />
Editor Simon Kurs<br />
Deputy Editor Sarah Warwick<br />
Art Director Blue Buxton<br />
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />
Editorial Intern Hettie Maylam<br />
Picture Editor Julia Holmes<br />
Picture Researcher Megan Eales<br />
Fashion Director Nino Bauti<br />
Sub-Editor Liz Granirer<br />
Destinations Sub-Editor Alex Gilly<br />
Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />
easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />
(General contact for magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />
Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
Sales Director Mark Duke<br />
Associate Publisher Kevin Smith<br />
European Key Account Manager<br />
Darren Paternoster<br />
European Sales Team Tara Brady, Phil Castle,<br />
Manuela Festa, Nishan Gumani,<br />
Liam Best, Adie Moff att<br />
Sales recruitment<br />
joinus@ink-global.com<br />
INK<br />
CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />
Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />
Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />
easyJet TRAVELLER is published<br />
on behalf of easyJet by Ink<br />
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BIENVENIDO | BIENVENUE | BENVENUTO | WILLKOMMEN<br />
WELCOME<br />
HELLO AND WELCOME ON BOARD.<br />
At the time of going to print we have just<br />
gone live with our allocated seating trial.<br />
We’ve been keen to alleviate the stress you<br />
tell us you can sometimes experience at<br />
boarding so we’re looking forward to<br />
seeing the results of the trial. If you tell us<br />
you are happy with it, and we are able to<br />
maintain our industry leading on-time<br />
performance, we will roll this out across<br />
our network.<br />
Just in time for summer, we’re also<br />
excited to announce fl ights to the Greek<br />
island of Kefalonia from both London<br />
Hola y bienvenido a<br />
bordo. Esperamos que<br />
esté disfrutando del <strong>2012</strong><br />
hasta el momento y que desee<br />
que llegue el verano tanto como<br />
nosotros. Nos complace anunciarle<br />
nuestros nuevos destinos de verano,<br />
justo a tiempo para el periodo de<br />
vacaciones. Este año easyJet le lleva<br />
con sus nuevas rutas desde Madrid<br />
a Dubrovnik, Creta y Cerdeña, tres<br />
destinos idílicos en los que poder<br />
relajarse. Desconectar de la rutina<br />
será muy fácil, disfrutando de sus<br />
fabulosas playas de aguas cristalinas.<br />
Además, estas rutas ya están<br />
a la venta para que pueda planifi car<br />
con antelación esas tan esperadas<br />
vacaciones de verano a precios<br />
asequibles.<br />
Además, este mes estrenamos<br />
nuestra nueva ruta nacional Madrid-<br />
La Coruña. También a principios de<br />
año lanzamos la nueva conexión<br />
Madrid-Bilbao. Ambas rutas ofrecen<br />
todavía más opciones a los clientes<br />
que viajan por ocio o por trabajo, y<br />
respaldan nuestro compromiso de<br />
conectar viajeros por toda Europa.<br />
Disfrute de su vuelo.<br />
If you have any thoughts<br />
or suggestions, email us at<br />
carolyn@easyJet.com<br />
Gatwick and Milan. Renowned for its<br />
beautiful beaches and wonderful food (not<br />
to mention the fact it’s the setting for<br />
Louis de Bernières best-selling book,<br />
Captain Corelli’s Mandolin) we’re sure you<br />
will love this idyllic Mediterranean location.<br />
Finally, we’re really pleased with recent<br />
customer satisfaction scores, which were<br />
at 87% last month – the highest we’ve<br />
seen so far this year.<br />
We’re committed to making travel<br />
easier so please let us know your views on<br />
how we are doing.<br />
Enjoy your fl ight.<br />
Salve e un caloroso benvenuto<br />
a bordo. Spero che il<br />
<strong>2012</strong> si stia rivelando per<br />
lei un anno fantastico e che, come<br />
noi, non veda l’ora che l’estate arrivi.<br />
Siamo lieti di annunciarle che, giusto<br />
in tempo per le vacanze, abbiamo<br />
una nuova, entusiasmante destinazione:<br />
l’isola greca di Cefalonia,<br />
raggiungibile da Milano e da Londra<br />
Gatwick. Famosa per le sue bellissime<br />
spiagge e la deliziosa cucina<br />
(oltre che per essere lo scenario del<br />
best-seller di Louis de Bernières, “Il<br />
mandolino del Capitano Corelli”),<br />
sarà sicuramente il posto perfetto<br />
per una pausa idilliaca nel cuore del<br />
Mediterraneo.<br />
Inoltre, stiamo per lanciare anche<br />
due nuove rotte interne: già da<br />
questo mese può volare da Madrid<br />
a La Coruña, mentre da giugno<br />
uniremo Milano ad Alghero. Con<br />
queste nuove tratte vogliamo off rire<br />
ancora più scelta a chi viaggia per<br />
aff ari o per piacere e confermare<br />
il nostro impegno a collegare tutta<br />
l’Europa.<br />
Buon volo.<br />
Turn to pages 181–192 for<br />
our latest news. For any<br />
queries or further information,<br />
visit easyJet.com<br />
Bonjour et bienvenue à<br />
bord. J’espère que l’année<br />
<strong>2012</strong> a bien commencé<br />
et que vous attendez l’été avec la<br />
même impatience que nous.<br />
Nous sommes ravis de vous<br />
annoncer de nouvelles destinations<br />
pour cette période estivale.<br />
Vous pourrez désormais vous<br />
envoler depuis Paris vers : Cagliari<br />
en Sardaigne, l’île grecque Rhodes,<br />
Lamezia en Italie (région de la<br />
Calabre) ou Héraklion en Crête.<br />
Depuis Lyon, nous vous proposons<br />
cet été: Ajaccio en Corse ou<br />
Palerme en Sicile.<br />
Nous inaugurons également 3<br />
nouvelles lignes estivales depuis<br />
Genève: Athènes pour un séjour<br />
culturel, Catane en Sicile ou Venise<br />
pour une escapade romantique.<br />
Toutes ces nouvelles lignes nous<br />
permettent d’off rir aux passagers<br />
en voyage loisirs ou aff aires un plus<br />
grand choix et de confi rmer notre<br />
engagement à répondre aux besoins<br />
de nos voyageurs européens.<br />
Bon vol !<br />
Received great service<br />
on board? Please tell us!<br />
Turn to page 182 to share<br />
the Orange Spirit!<br />
Carolyn McCall<br />
easyJet Chief Executive<br />
Hallo und willkommen<br />
an Bord. Ich hoff e, dass<br />
<strong>2012</strong> bisher ein gutes Jahr<br />
für Sie ist und Sie den Sommer<br />
genauso herbeisehnen wie wir. Wir<br />
freuen uns, Ihnen pünktlich zur<br />
Urlaubssaison vier neue spannende<br />
Ziele ab Deutschland und der<br />
Schweiz präsentieren zu können. Ab<br />
Ende Juni fl iegen wir neu ab Berlin<br />
Brandenburg auf die griechischen<br />
Inseln Rhodos und Mykonos. Mit<br />
ihren wunderschönen Stränden<br />
und der hervorragenden Küche sind<br />
beide Inseln ganz sicher perfekt für<br />
eine mediterrane Pause. Und ab<br />
Basel-Freiburg haben wir in diesem<br />
Sommer neu für Sie Faro und Ibiza<br />
im Programm!<br />
Zudem gehen in den nächsten<br />
beiden Monaten zwei neue Inlandsstrecken<br />
in Spanien und Italien an<br />
den Start: Madrid - La Coruña und<br />
Mailand – Alghero (Sardinien).<br />
Beide Strecken ergänzen unser<br />
Angebot für Privat- und Geschäftsreisende<br />
und unterstützen unser<br />
Ziel, Reisende quer durch Europa zu<br />
vernetzen.<br />
Genießen Sie Ihren Flug.<br />
NEW<br />
Download our free App<br />
for iPhone & Android –<br />
wherever you’re going,<br />
take us with you<br />
TRAVELLER | 7
60 69<br />
INSPIRING<br />
IDEAS FOR<br />
YOUR DIARY<br />
THE<br />
BUZZ<br />
Breakin’ Convention<br />
UK (VARIOUS)<br />
Move to the groove of a diff erent beat<br />
with some of the best b-boys and<br />
b-girls on this year’s Breakin’<br />
Convention national tour. Busting onto<br />
London’s Saddler’s Wells’ stage on 5-7<br />
May before heading off , the tour will<br />
feature great performances from more<br />
than 40 of the world’s very best<br />
hip-hop dance acts, including the<br />
current world champions, French<br />
wonderkids Vagabond Crew, and artists<br />
from Korea, Japan and Ghana. Plus, you<br />
can learn to pop, lock, hype and<br />
boogaloo at freestyle workshops with<br />
live hip-hop DJs. Catch all the action in<br />
London, Birmingham (14-15 May),<br />
Edinburgh (18-19 May), Inverness (22<br />
May) and Bristol (31 May). Tickets start<br />
from £15. breakinconvention.com<br />
8 | TRAVELLER<br />
One of Breakin’<br />
Convention’s<br />
dancers photographed<br />
in the foyer at<br />
Saddler’s Wells
WORDS STEPHANIE YIP | PHOTO © BELINDA LAWLEY
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
GOSSIP FROM THE NETWORK<br />
WORD OF MOUTH<br />
Tunnels Come<br />
Out On Top<br />
EDINBURGH<br />
Ever heard of Gilmerton Cove? We<br />
thought not. This mysterious network<br />
of tunnels in the Scottish capital –<br />
rumoured to once have played host to<br />
crusading knights – is only open to small<br />
groups of visitors with advance booking.<br />
Word is getting out though: it’s been<br />
voted the city’s best attraction on the<br />
Trip Advisor website. Visit now, before it’s<br />
overrun. gilmertoncove.org.uk<br />
NETWORK IN NUMBERS<br />
€25<br />
MADRID<br />
Cost of hiring an<br />
iPad for a day’s<br />
sightseeing,<br />
thanks to<br />
PadInTheCity, a<br />
scheme unique to<br />
the Iberian capital.<br />
The tablets come<br />
stocked with apps,<br />
like Metro Madrid<br />
and iTranslate,<br />
but don’t lose it:<br />
there’s a hefty<br />
€390 deposit.<br />
padinthecity.com<br />
10 | TRAVELLER<br />
166KG<br />
JERSEY<br />
Weight of an<br />
unexploded<br />
German Roll<br />
Mine, left over<br />
from World War<br />
II, that was found<br />
recently by staff<br />
at Gorey Castle<br />
in Jersey. The<br />
bomb was safely<br />
detonated with<br />
no loss of life or<br />
injury, leaving<br />
a 15ft-wide hole<br />
in the sand.<br />
€11<br />
PARIS<br />
Fine that will be<br />
levied on those<br />
who fail to carry<br />
a breathalyser<br />
kit when driving<br />
through France<br />
after new<br />
legislation is<br />
introduced in<br />
July this year. The<br />
tests, which cost<br />
€2-€5, will be sold<br />
at ferry and tunnel<br />
terminals, and at<br />
French airports.<br />
£2.2M<br />
LIVERPOOL<br />
Cost of turning<br />
a Liverpudlian<br />
landfi ll site into<br />
a new public<br />
park. The former<br />
Bromborough tip<br />
on the Wirral will<br />
be reclaimed and,<br />
over three years,<br />
turned into a public<br />
space named Port<br />
Sunlight River Park,<br />
complete with<br />
nature walks and<br />
interactive art.<br />
A Lost<br />
Leonardo?<br />
PISA<br />
Scientists believe they <strong>may</strong> have found a lost Leonardo da Vinci<br />
painting. Tipped off by a cryptic message reading cerca trova<br />
(seek and you shall fi nd) on a Giorgio Vasari mural in Florence’s<br />
Palazzo Vecchio, art diagnostics expert Maurizio Seracini has<br />
been trying to fi nd out if The Battle of Anghiari (which da Vinci<br />
painted in 1502) is on a hidden wall behind the mural. “The<br />
evidence suggests we are searching in the right place,” he says.
WORDS AMY DENNIS, SARAH WARWICK Up<br />
on the Roof<br />
COPENHAGEN Beer lovers alert! An architectural<br />
competition to develop Carlsberg’s Vesterbro<br />
brewhouse has been won by a pitch that promises to<br />
add a shiny new rooftop terrace to the factory. Already<br />
home to a museum, the new development will feature<br />
hot-spring spas, restaurants and a nightclub, all with<br />
views out over the city. Possibly the best terrace<br />
hang-out in the world? carlsberggroup.com
WORDS TANIA AHSAN, CATHERINE COOPER | PHOTO UN JOUR, UN CHEF<br />
You’ll get a good<br />
view of the beach<br />
at Laxey from the<br />
electric tram<br />
4<br />
OF THE<br />
BEST<br />
Manx Seaside Spots<br />
ISLE OF MAN<br />
On 26 May, the world-famous Tourist<br />
Trophy (TT) motorbike racers roar onto<br />
the island. Escape the <strong>may</strong>hem with<br />
lesser known, beach-based delights –<br />
these are just four of the highlights along<br />
almost 160km of coastline.<br />
RAMSEY HARBOUR Come and swoon<br />
at all the pricey yachts. The Manx Sailing<br />
and Cruising Club is headquartered here,<br />
and its Round the Island race on 6 May<br />
provides plenty of spectacle.<br />
COASTAL RIDES Off ering some of the<br />
best coastal views in Europe, the Manx<br />
Electric Railway tram from Laxey to<br />
Prospective<br />
chefs outside the<br />
Marais restaurant<br />
Douglas is a glorious 45-minute coast<br />
ride. Let the sea air blow off the cobwebs.<br />
NIARBYL COVE Looking for rugged,<br />
rocky beauty? Get down to the remotest<br />
part of the island, where Niarbyl Cove<br />
has quaint fi shermen’s cottages and<br />
cliff -path walks.<br />
BASKING SHARKS These sea monsters<br />
are an endangered species and, at up to<br />
10m in length, the second largest fi sh in<br />
the world. From mid-May to mid-August,<br />
when the sea is calm, Port Erin and Peel<br />
Breakwater are both ideal viewing spots<br />
to see them.<br />
gov.im/tourism<br />
Chef du Jour<br />
PARIS<br />
The chance to run a restaurant in<br />
Paris sounds like every foodie’s<br />
dream – or a particularly tortuous<br />
round of Masterchef – but now<br />
this fantasy has become reality.<br />
Un Jour, un Chef allows wannabe<br />
Alain Ducasses to be head chef<br />
at a Marais restaurant for one<br />
night only. Concept creator<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
The museum’s gift shop<br />
is home to unusual<br />
items for tattoo lovers<br />
The (Body)<br />
Art Gallery<br />
AMSTERDAM<br />
In a city well known for its major<br />
museums, such as the Rijksmuseum<br />
and the Van Gogh Museum, the<br />
latest addition to grace Amsterdam’s<br />
cultural scene is somewhat more<br />
alternative. The Amsterdam Tattoo<br />
Museum, brainchild of tattoo legend<br />
Henk “Hanky Panky” Schiff macher,<br />
is believed to be the largest in the<br />
world and home to around 40,000<br />
exhibits relating to all things ink.<br />
The ‘Tatican’, as it’s known, includes<br />
tattoos from all cultures, historic<br />
periods and walks of life; tattoo<br />
machines and even human fl esh<br />
(tattooed, of course). And for those<br />
who want a permanent souvenir,<br />
there’s even an on-site tattoo studio.<br />
amsterdamtattoomuseum.com<br />
Ludovic Dalavaud is on hand to<br />
off er assistance, but other than<br />
that, the non-paying volunteers<br />
choose ingredients, menu design<br />
and cooking process. It’s great for<br />
the city’s neophiles: every night<br />
provides diners with a totally<br />
diff erent experience.<br />
A three-course dinner costs €30<br />
a head. 1jour1chef.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 13
WORDS CHRIS BEANLAND, STEPHANIE YIP, AMY DENNIS | ILLUSTRATIONS © SCOTT CHAMBERS<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
What’s going on?<br />
STAR TOURS<br />
UNTIL 25 OCTOBER<br />
The Cézanne Sites<br />
MARSEILLE Aix-en-Provence –<br />
less than 30 minutes from Marseille<br />
– was once the hometown of postimpressionist<br />
Paul Cézanne. Now<br />
weekly tours (10am on Thursdays)<br />
here allow visitors to walk in his<br />
footsteps to see the studio (above)<br />
of the man whom Picasso said was<br />
“the father of us all”. €8 per person;<br />
aixenprovencetourism.com.<br />
NEW LAUNCH<br />
Marvin Gaye’s app<br />
BRUSSELS The city of Ostend, a<br />
75-minute drive west of Brussels, is<br />
famous for two things: strong winds<br />
and Marvin Gaye. The tragic soul<br />
singer braved the breezes to live<br />
here in 1981 and now you can follow<br />
his footsteps around the Belgian<br />
seaside town by downloading an app<br />
from the tourist offi ce website. €5;<br />
visitoostende.be<br />
SUMMER <strong>2012</strong><br />
Christopher<br />
Isherwood Tour<br />
BERLIN Isherwood’s 1945 novella,<br />
The Berlin Stories, conjured a night<br />
world of dancers and dreamers –<br />
later crystallised into the much-loved<br />
musical Cabaret. Now a risqué new<br />
walking tour, inspired by his life in the<br />
city, uncovers a 1930s Berlin rich with<br />
the decadence of the Weimar era.<br />
€10 per person; cabaret-berlin.com<br />
14 | TRAVELLER<br />
The Queen<br />
Spotter’s Guide<br />
As the UK gears up for The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, here’s our<br />
handy guide to identifying the right one…<br />
fi g a. fi g b.<br />
THE QUEEN Elizabeth Regina<br />
Characteristics Lady of a certain age.<br />
Waves a lot. Elaborate plumage. Wears<br />
a lot of headgear, from muted pastel<br />
creations to big, gold crowns, plus a<br />
natty perm-and-sensible-shoe combo.<br />
Environs State occasions, palaces.<br />
Spot Thanks to celebrations marking<br />
her 60th year on the throne, there will<br />
be sighting opportunities in London<br />
on 2-5 June (thediamondjubilee.org).<br />
fi g c. fi g d.<br />
DRAG QUEEN Leggus maximus<br />
Characteristics Lots of make-up,<br />
fl amboyant, rainbow-coloured dresses<br />
and bags of attitude. Not afraid to<br />
break spontaneously into song.<br />
Environs Soho, mostly. This nocturnal<br />
bird favours anywhere with loads of<br />
glitz, glamour and large cocktails.<br />
Spot Floridita Nightclub<br />
(fl oriditalondon.com) runs regular<br />
Drag Queen Dance Classes.<br />
PEARLY QUEEN Buttonus mostus<br />
Characteristics Heavy clothing, shiny<br />
buttons. Speaks in rhyming slang.<br />
Tirelessly fundraises for charity.<br />
Environs Street parties in east London,<br />
markets and working-men’s clubs.<br />
Spot Spy her carrying out charity<br />
collections: try Covent Garden’s<br />
Jubilee Market (jubileemarket.co.uk)<br />
on the third weekend of every<br />
month (19-20 May).<br />
QUEEN Rockus megastarus<br />
Characteristics Big hair, big guitars, big<br />
voices, big on leather.<br />
Environs Stadiums, festivals and<br />
anywhere else that’s fi t for rock gods.<br />
Spot Sadly Queen’s reunion gig at<br />
Knebworth has been cancelled, but you<br />
might still spot them in the audience at<br />
the Dominion Theatre on 14 May for the<br />
10th anniversary of the band’s musical<br />
We Will Rock You (wewillrockyou.co.uk).
WORDS MARK BAILEY | PHOTO GETTY<br />
THE BUZZ | PROFILE<br />
Q+A<br />
Greene and Gold<br />
As the world gears up for the London <strong>2012</strong> Games, we spoke to former 100m Olympic<br />
champion Maurice Greene about what it takes to make sporting history<br />
LONDON<br />
For six years, American sprinter Maurice<br />
Greene was the fastest man who had<br />
ever lived. In June 1999, the Kansas-born<br />
athlete shattered the men’s 100m world<br />
record with a 9.79-second dash and his<br />
historic feat wasn’t matched until 2005.<br />
During that time, Greene won four Olympic<br />
medals, including gold in the 100m and<br />
4x100m relay at the Sydney Olympics<br />
in 2000. Now retired, the 37-year-old<br />
combines business interests and coaching<br />
work with his role as a pundit for<br />
Eurosport. As someone who’s<br />
seen both sides, he’s ideally<br />
placed to reveal the secret to<br />
winning gold. And what really<br />
does go on behind the scenes?<br />
We asked the Olympic legend to<br />
reveal all…<br />
Will London be as good as Beijing?<br />
“Oh, yeah, it’s going to be<br />
fabulous. London is an incredible city and<br />
it’s a place that people love to come and<br />
visit anyway. China put on a very good<br />
Olympics, but I expect London to be just<br />
as good, if not better. I’m excited, not just<br />
as a former Olympian, but because I now<br />
train athletes, like [British female 100m<br />
sprinter] Montell Douglas, so I feel very<br />
close to the action.”<br />
Do you miss being a professional sportsman?<br />
“Oh, no, not at all. The only thing I miss<br />
is the competition. I certainly don’t miss<br />
the training or eating all those vegetables.<br />
I have a diff erent role now, but I have<br />
athletes who have put their careers in my<br />
hands, so I still feel pressure. I can enjoy<br />
watching as a fan now though. I’m looking<br />
forward to the track and fi eld events, the<br />
diving, the swimming and the basketball.”<br />
16 | TRAVELLER<br />
What are your memories of winning gold?<br />
“Standing on the podium in Sydney was<br />
an incredible moment. It sounds stupid,<br />
but it really felt like a dream; like I was<br />
outside of my body and looking at this guy<br />
with a gold medal. There are no words I<br />
can use to make people understand how<br />
happy I actually felt.”<br />
What is life like in the OIympic Village?<br />
“The atmosphere is great, because you’re<br />
there with all the greatest athletes in the<br />
world. You walk to a restaurant and you<br />
“Yohan Blake has a good<br />
chance [of winning] gold,<br />
even though everybody<br />
talks about Usain Bolt.”<br />
see all these famous faces. It’s a cool place<br />
to be. But I have to admit, I spent most of<br />
my time watching movies.”<br />
What are the medal celebrations like?<br />
“Some people have fi nished and are<br />
partying, and others are nervous before a<br />
race, so it can be strange. You can imagine<br />
if someone wins a medal after four years<br />
of training they go pretty crazy – I had<br />
a huge party in a club in Sydney – but<br />
I always had fun as an athlete. We used<br />
to go to Monaco, hire all the fast cars, and<br />
drive around in Porsches, Ferraris and<br />
Aston Martins. That was amazing.”<br />
What makes a gold-medal winner?<br />
“Mental strength. In an Olympic fi nal, any<br />
one of the athletes has the physical ability<br />
to win that race. Can you take it to the next<br />
level at the right moment, stay focused<br />
and believe in yourself? If you can, you<br />
will make history. I was mentally strong,<br />
because I loved to prove people wrong.<br />
I wanted to do the impossible.”<br />
Are 100m runners the superstars in the<br />
Olympic Village?<br />
“The 100m is the heavyweight<br />
championship of the world. Every athlete<br />
knows that. You have to enjoy that. I used<br />
to say that the more people watching, the<br />
better I was going to perform.”<br />
Who will win the men’s 100m in <strong>2012</strong>?<br />
“I think [Jamaican sprinter]<br />
Yohan Blake has a good chance,<br />
even though everybody talks<br />
about Usain Bolt. If Usain is<br />
running like he did last year, he<br />
won’t break any records, but<br />
if he’s running like he was in<br />
China then he could do it again.<br />
Yohan and Usain train together<br />
and that’s good. I trained with<br />
[Trinidad and Tobago sprinter]<br />
Ato Boldon and [American athlete] Jon<br />
Drummond, and we pushed each other<br />
every day. That’s what enabled me to do<br />
what I did.”<br />
What do you like about London?<br />
“I love London. There’s a nightclub called<br />
Chinawhite, which I love. I remember<br />
a private club in St James’s that had<br />
great food – if you could get in. I love<br />
the old buildings. America is not as<br />
old as European countries, so seeing<br />
architecture that has been standing for<br />
centuries still amazes me. I love going<br />
to the south of France and Sweden too.<br />
I always advise people to try new things<br />
when they travel. Some people won’t<br />
eat new things or do new things – if you<br />
don’t, you might miss out on the best<br />
experiences in the world.”
Maurice Green after<br />
winning the 100m<br />
gold at the Sydney<br />
Games in 2000<br />
TRAVELLER | 17
WORDS RANIA MARGARI | PHOTO © ART BASEL<br />
Experience<br />
contemporary art<br />
from all over the<br />
world at Art 43<br />
Basel. This piece is<br />
byJapanese artist<br />
Yoshitomo Nara<br />
BASEL High-rise houses aren’t the only things that put Art Basel head and<br />
shoulders above other art fairs. Held 14-17 June, this year’s festival – in its 43rd<br />
incarnation – will bring together work from almost 300 of the world’s fi nest<br />
galleries. Whether buying, bidding or browsing, visitors can enjoy eye-catching<br />
pieces from surrealism and innovation to sculpture and installation. Get a<br />
weekend package to the fair from €162. See basel.com for more details.<br />
A recycling project<br />
in Greece is bringing<br />
colour and nature<br />
into urban areas<br />
THESSALONIKI Amid ancient<br />
ruins and domed churches, a<br />
two-wheeled revolution is taking<br />
place in the northern Greek city of<br />
Thessaloniki. Following in the tyre<br />
prints of the Canadian Good Bike<br />
Project, which turns old bicycles<br />
into monuments, this city’s rusty,<br />
old two-wheelers are being given<br />
a very colourful revamp instead of<br />
being thrown on the scrapheap.<br />
Known as The Re-cycling<br />
Project, this is street art with a<br />
diff erence. “We want to motivate<br />
ART FESTIVALS<br />
A Very Bright Idea<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
What’s going on?<br />
18 MAY – 3 JUNE<br />
Reykjavik Arts<br />
Festival<br />
REYKJAVIK Gigs by Yann Tiersen<br />
and Bryan Ferry will make music the<br />
main focus of the Reykjavik Arts<br />
Festival, but you’ll fi nd plenty of other<br />
excitements over this fortnight too.<br />
Our pick? Visit the Art Museum for a<br />
posthumous exhibition by Catalan<br />
sculptor Antoni Tàpies. artfest.is<br />
17 MAY – 25 JUNE<br />
Music Weeks<br />
SOFIA The Chamber Ensemble of<br />
Sofi a Soloists are just one of the<br />
international chamber ensembles on<br />
show during this classical music<br />
extravaganza. Of equal delight,<br />
though, are Bulgaria’s stunning<br />
concert halls, which will thrill even the<br />
tone deaf. sofi aweeks.com<br />
19-20 MAY<br />
Museum Festival<br />
BUDAPEST A two-day taster of<br />
what Hungarian museums have to<br />
off er. Within the garden and along the<br />
main street of Budapest’s Hungarian<br />
National Museum, this “museum<br />
market” is a way to sample over a<br />
hundred of them in one place.<br />
majalis.hu<br />
people to volunteer to transform<br />
their town in the simple way<br />
of giving life to old objects,”<br />
explains Kostis Kotsonis, the<br />
group’s co-founder. Thus, the old<br />
rattlers are painted in a rainbow<br />
of colours – green represents<br />
the lack of green spaces in the<br />
city, for example, and orange the<br />
city’s hotspots – while fl owers<br />
are planted in the bikes’ baskets,<br />
bringing a touch of nature to the<br />
urban landscape.<br />
the-recycling-project.tumblr.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 19
WORDS LUKE WATERSON | PHOTOS © WONDERFULCOPENHAGEN.DK<br />
THE BUZZ | CAFÉ CULTURE<br />
Brewing a<br />
Revolution<br />
Nørrebro, in Denmark’s capital, was once a<br />
run-down district known for riots. Now it’s<br />
experiencing a more palatable kind of uprising<br />
COPENHAGEN<br />
“This,” Klaus Thomsen indicates a freshly<br />
made espresso with reverence, “is God<br />
in a cup.” The former World Barista<br />
Champion isn’t exaggerating. The coff ee<br />
he’s just prepared, using beans from<br />
Panama’s Hacienda La Esmeralda, once<br />
prompted a customer to exclaim he’d<br />
seen the almighty’s face in the brew.<br />
The Copenhagen café he part-owns,<br />
Coff ee Collective (coff eecollective.dk),<br />
prides itself on only using responsibly<br />
sourced beans and, since its opening<br />
in 2008, Thomsen has travelled to<br />
plantations around the world, buying<br />
the beans direct from the growers. “It’s a<br />
pleasure to put names and faces to the<br />
world’s best coff ee” he says. “Giving this<br />
recognition to the producers is crucial to<br />
the whole idea of fairtrade.”<br />
The café also has a mission to educate<br />
customers about where their coff ee<br />
comes from and how it’s made. It even<br />
off ers barista classes and courses to its<br />
caring, sharing public.<br />
This intelligent approach to food<br />
and drink is typical of Nørrebro,<br />
the north-western inner suburb<br />
of Copenhagen that is garnering<br />
a reputation for simple culinary<br />
authenticity. Jægersborggade in<br />
particular – the hip street where<br />
Thomsen and co grind their wares –<br />
is now the place to eat, drink and be<br />
merry in the Danish capital, thanks<br />
to its underground wine bars, artisan<br />
chocolatiers and right-on vegetarian<br />
delis. This is no small achievement in a<br />
city that is – per the latest numbers – as<br />
Michelin-star-spangled as Milan.<br />
It’s even more unusual if you consider<br />
Nørrebro’s dark history. The area was<br />
once synonymous with violent riots,<br />
20 | TRAVELLER<br />
Clockwise from near<br />
right, the small<br />
street of<br />
Jægersborggade<br />
has become the<br />
hub of Nørrebro; for<br />
fresh seafood head<br />
to Oysters & Grill;<br />
café culture at<br />
Coff ee Collective on<br />
Jægersborggade;<br />
gastronomy at Relæ<br />
has earned<br />
Nørrebro its fi rst<br />
Michelin-star<br />
Dining out is<br />
like stopping<br />
by a friend’s<br />
apartment<br />
dope peddling and deprivation. During<br />
the 1980s, fracas with the police were<br />
commonplace and, as recently as 2007,<br />
riots broke out in protest at the closing of<br />
music venue the Ungdomshuset (literally<br />
the Youth House) that resulted in the<br />
arrest of 273 people.<br />
What a diff erence a few years make.<br />
Now the cobbled streets are lined with<br />
simple, informal cafés, trendy boutiques,<br />
colourful graffi ti and the ever-ubiquitous<br />
city bicycles. Despite maintaining its<br />
edgy appeal, the threat of violence has<br />
faded away in Nørrebro, to be replaced<br />
by a seriously relaxed vibe and some<br />
serious foodie culture. It’s not a bad spot<br />
for people watching either.<br />
Take local bistro Restaurant Relæ<br />
(restaurant-relae.dk). With its focus<br />
on fresh ingredients cooked in simple,<br />
innovative ways, it exemplifi es the spirit<br />
of the area. Here, as at Coff ee Collective,<br />
co-owners Kim Rossen and former Noma<br />
sous chef Christian Puglisi strive to bring
diners closer to their food: there’s an<br />
open kitchen and every eff ort is made<br />
to keep patrons informed about where<br />
the produce comes from. For this they<br />
were rewarded with the Jægersborggade<br />
area’s fi rst Michelin star in March.<br />
What else sets Nørrebro apart? Aside<br />
from the bright young chefs, it’s also<br />
the place to sample Denmark’s ethnic<br />
fusion treats – freshly baked pastries and<br />
heart-stopping grilled Middle Eastern<br />
meats. But more than this, there’s a real<br />
Danish twist. Dining out is like stopping<br />
by a friend’s battered apartment: an<br />
understated, relaxed experience, like that<br />
typifi ed by cool café bar/up-and-coming<br />
music venue Tjili Pop (tjili.dk).<br />
In Nørrebro, there’s no pomp to the<br />
eateries – chefs make a point of getting<br />
away from that – and so it was with<br />
the arrival of Oysters & Grill (cofoco.<br />
dk/oysters.php), the district’s hot new<br />
seafood joint. No wild fanfare opening,<br />
just a steady trickle of young Danes<br />
putting down pushbikes and going in<br />
to investigate. Continuing the Nørrebro<br />
trend, this restaurant doesn’t necessarily<br />
serve better food; it’s just in a less<br />
pretentious, more convivial environment.<br />
Hygge is the Danish way of socialising<br />
and means, essentially, “relaxing and<br />
enjoying quality time together”.<br />
So what of the future? The recently<br />
launched Visit Copenhagen app is<br />
already directing tourists to this onceunknown<br />
neighbourhood in ever greater<br />
numbers, but locals aren’t concerned.<br />
Nørrebro has no intention of changing<br />
just yet. Wake up and smell the ethically<br />
sourced coff ee.<br />
THE BUZZ | CAFÉ CULTURE<br />
FULL OF<br />
BEANS<br />
Three other places<br />
rocking their own version<br />
of European café culture<br />
FAZIL BEY<br />
ISTANBUL<br />
Turks introduced<br />
coff ee to Europe<br />
and have been<br />
brewing for<br />
centuries. Try a cup at this traditional<br />
Kadıköy market coff ee house<br />
for an authentic Istanbul experience<br />
(1A Serasker Caddesi; fazilbey.com).<br />
ELEPHANT<br />
HOUSE<br />
EDINBURGH<br />
When it comes<br />
to elegant<br />
venues to grab<br />
a brew, Scotland’s capital rivals the<br />
best. Enjoy a cup in the place where<br />
JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter (32<br />
Marshall Street; elephanthouse.biz).<br />
BATEAU IVRE<br />
BERLIN<br />
Ever-hip<br />
Kreuzberg is<br />
rammed with<br />
delectable coff ee<br />
places. Our favourite is this classy<br />
spot, which takes inspiration from a<br />
Rimbaud poem (18 Oranienstraße;<br />
tel: +49 (0)30 6140 3659).<br />
TRAVELLER | 21
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
COMING FOR<br />
THE GAMES?<br />
Check out these capital<br />
ideas for aff ordable<br />
summer stays<br />
CAMP IN THE EAST<br />
A temporary campsite, with free<br />
shuttle bus to the Olympic Park, is<br />
being set up in Walthamstow just for<br />
the Games. Take your own tent, stay<br />
in one of theirs or enjoy a luxury yurt.<br />
Pitches start at £15 (€18) per person.<br />
campinlondon.com<br />
HOSTEL IN THE SOUTH<br />
Opening on 1 July in up-and-coming<br />
Elephant and Castle, the Safestay<br />
hostel off ers more than bunk beds.<br />
Its old Georgian building has bright,<br />
clean rooms and communal areas<br />
that look out over the garden. From<br />
£18 (€21) per night. safestay.co.uk<br />
APARTMENTS IN THE NORTH<br />
In the pretty Hampstead area of<br />
London, 291 Suites is a modern,<br />
apartment-style hotel. With your own<br />
cooking facilities, these three-star,<br />
one-bedroom fl ats will allow you to<br />
feel right at home. From £199 (€238).<br />
laterooms.com<br />
22 | TRAVELLER<br />
The Executive<br />
Lounge of the<br />
Hotel 41 feels as<br />
cosy and familiar<br />
as a gent’s club<br />
LONDON<br />
<strong>2012</strong><br />
Is This London’s Best<br />
Boutique Hotel?<br />
LONDON It’s a well-known (though<br />
rarely revealed) fact within journalism<br />
that whenever a headline poses a<br />
question, the answer is usually “no”. Hotel<br />
41 proves the exception to the rule: this<br />
family-run boutique bolthole is the fi nest<br />
we’ve ever stayed in in London.<br />
Don’t just take our word. It was voted<br />
the UK capital’s best by the users of<br />
TripAdvisor and was the only UK hotel<br />
to feature in the travel website’s recent<br />
Traveller’s Choice Awards. “Amazing,<br />
sexy, romantic,” said one rapt guest. “My<br />
home from home,” gushed another.<br />
That’s why 41 is our pick for anyone<br />
visiting the capital this summer (we hear<br />
there’s a big sporting event on). More like<br />
a member’s club than a hotel, the whole<br />
experience centres around the library,<br />
where guests lounge on welcomingly<br />
worn leather sofas surrounded by eclectic<br />
objets d’art. Staff wait attentively, but<br />
never obsequiously – a trick only the<br />
best hotels manage. All this attention to<br />
detail is the trademark of Bea Tollman,<br />
the South African behind this and several<br />
other equally fabulous hotels worldwide.<br />
The rooms, for instance, with their<br />
black-and-white rococo stylings, scream<br />
understated luxury, while the relaxed<br />
ambience extends to an honesty bar –<br />
one of the last remaining in the city.<br />
Close to Buckingham Palace, there are<br />
attractions galore on hand should the<br />
goings on in east London become too<br />
much. But, frankly, you <strong>may</strong> just decide<br />
not to venture out at all. 41hotel.com<br />
WORDS SIMON KURS, AMY DENNIS
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WORDS AMY DENNIS | PHOTO © GETTY<br />
VIEWING NOTES<br />
Are those real babies that man is<br />
jumping j p g over? Yes, , they y are, , but he’s<br />
not really y a man: the local people ppeople p in<br />
the the town of Castrillo de Murcia, , south<br />
of Bilbao, , believe that he’s<br />
El Colacho<br />
(The ( Devil) Devil) ) and and jjumping jumping p g over the<br />
nippers nippers pp saves them from original g sin.<br />
Shouldn’t someone tell their<br />
parents? p Actually, y, they y know. People<br />
p<br />
come from far and wide to off er their<br />
newborn tots. More than 90 niños<br />
(who ( must be under a year y year old) ) are<br />
brought g to the Plaza del Ayuntamiento<br />
y<br />
in in the town centre to take ppart<br />
part in the<br />
devil’s devil’s j jump p every yy year.<br />
That’s pretty p y wacky. y True, , but the<br />
event is part ppart of the town’s Corpus p<br />
Christi Christi celebrations celebrations and it’s been<br />
going g g since 1620, , so it’s a bit of an<br />
institution now.<br />
Isn’t it, , well, , a little dangerous? g<br />
It certainly y is. Last y year, , El Colacho<br />
sprained p his ankle and had to bow out<br />
of proceedings. p g But fortunately y no<br />
babies have suff ered at the<br />
hands (or ( (or should that be feet) )<br />
of the jumpers. jjumpers. p Also, , after the<br />
jumping, j p g, the babies get gget<br />
rose<br />
petals p thrown on them, , so that<br />
– – allegedly g y – makes it all better.<br />
El Salto del Colacho is held on 10 June.<br />
sasamon.burgos.es g<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
THE MUST SEE<br />
EL SALTO<br />
DEL<br />
COLACHO<br />
BILBAO<br />
TRAVELLER | 25
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL TRENDS<br />
Neighbourhood Watch: Merchant City<br />
GLASGOW Originally the haunt of the city’s tobacco lords, Trongate, the main street in this area,<br />
is now known for its high-end shopping. Long-neglected throughout the 1900s, the district has seen<br />
recent regeneration, bringing a wave of vintage and eco shops, artists’ studios and exhibitions.<br />
GILLIAN MACDONALD, 19, STUDENT<br />
What’s your favourite neighbourhood bar?<br />
“The little hipster bar in the Brunswick<br />
Hotel where DJs play at the weekends<br />
[106-108 Brunswick Street; tel: +44 141<br />
552 0001, brunswickhotel.co.uk].”<br />
What’s your favourite local restaurant?<br />
“Sapporo Teppanyaki is good if you’re out<br />
with your mates. The tables are huge and<br />
the chefs put on a show [6 Ingram Street;<br />
tel: +44 (0)141 553 4060, sapporo.co.uk].”<br />
Secret tip? “Barras Market on the<br />
weekends for real vintage bargains<br />
[10am-5pm, 224 Gallowgate;<br />
glasgow-barrowland.com].”<br />
26 | TRAVELLER<br />
LYNDSAY PAGAN, 27, DESIGNER<br />
What’s your favourite neighbourhood<br />
bar? “Nice ‘N’ Sleazy. The cocktails<br />
are fantastic and it’s very chilled [421<br />
Sauchiehall Street; tel: +44 (0)141 333<br />
0900, nicensleazy.com].”<br />
What’s your coolest shop? “Mr Ben for<br />
vintage clothing. The staff are lovely [101<br />
King Street; tel: +44 (0)141 553 1936,<br />
mrbenretroclothing.com].”<br />
Secret Tip? “Trongate 103. It’s a gallery<br />
and home to the slightly whacky<br />
Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre [103<br />
Trongate; tel: +44 (0)141 276 8380.<br />
trongate103.com].”<br />
JAMES SCOTT, 37, SALES DIRECTOR<br />
What’s your favourite local restaurant?<br />
“Barbarossa, where Italy meets Scotland.<br />
Go casual or head upstairs for something<br />
fancier. [5 Clarkston Road; tel: +44 (0)141<br />
560 3898, barbarossarestaurant.co.uk].”<br />
What’s your coolest shop? “Brazen is<br />
full of individual jewellery designers,<br />
with a huge selection of men’s items<br />
[58 Albion Street; tel: +44 (0)141 552<br />
4551, brazenstudios.co.uk].”<br />
Secret Tip? “Barras Art & Design Centre.<br />
You can easily lose a day wandering<br />
around the exhibits [54 Calton Entry;<br />
barrasartanddesign.com].”<br />
ON TREND<br />
trendwatching.com scans the globe<br />
for the latest emerging consumer<br />
trends. Here, Henry Mason, head of<br />
the company’s research and analysis,<br />
tells us what to watch this month.<br />
LIFE: SUBSCRIBED<br />
If you’re bored of bills being the only<br />
thing delivered by the postman, think<br />
about upgrading your subscriptions.<br />
We’re not talking about a magazine<br />
that lands on the doormat every<br />
month – mail orders have smartened<br />
up, with more companies sending<br />
beauty products, coff ee, breads and<br />
even birds to busy consumers.<br />
Record and fashion label badDETT<br />
(baddett.com), for example, will send<br />
music fans a silk-screened T-shirt<br />
designed with the album artwork of<br />
a diff erent artist every month. The<br />
shirt’s label has a QR code so you can<br />
download music to your phone too.<br />
Foodwise, Kopi (pictured, kopi.<br />
co.uk) delivers coff ee – beans<br />
or ground – direct to your door.<br />
Each package contains tasting<br />
notes, information on source and<br />
instructions to brew the perfect cup.<br />
Not ones to shy away from a<br />
trend, France’s le post is delivering<br />
fresh produce to customers of La<br />
Ferme des Echancées (ferme-desechancees.com).<br />
Subscribers sign a<br />
contrat poule (chicken contract) and<br />
receive eggs for 12 months. At the end<br />
of the year, they can have the carcass<br />
of the bird delivered for cooking.<br />
All in all, it’s given us a whole new<br />
reason to get excited about hearing<br />
that thud of post on the doormat.<br />
To subscribe to the free monthly Trend.<br />
Briefi ng, available in English, Dutch,<br />
German, French, Spanish, Turkish and<br />
Portuguese, go to trendwatching.com<br />
WORDS CHRIS HUNT/GENUINE
oggi.com<br />
shop.boggi.com
WORDS HETTIE MAYLAM | PHOTO © ALAMY | COMPETITION DETAILS AT TRAVELLER.EASYJET.COM/T&Cs<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
Photo<br />
Contest<br />
Winner!<br />
CONGRATULATIONS to the<br />
winner of our March photo<br />
competition! Thanks to all of<br />
you who entered: we had many<br />
great entries that show the<br />
enormous range of trips<br />
taken on easyJet. Our winner<br />
is Marianna Dúzs, with this<br />
wonderful picture of her and<br />
her boyfriend in Paris. She wins<br />
two tickets to the easyJet<br />
destination of her choice...<br />
Marianna says:<br />
“This shows my<br />
boyfriend and<br />
me jumping for<br />
happiness in front of<br />
the glass pyramid of<br />
the Louvre. He lives<br />
in Paris and I live<br />
in Budapest, so you<br />
literally give us wings<br />
to see each other.<br />
Thank you for that!”<br />
28 | TRAVELLER<br />
WINNER!<br />
Colditz Castle<br />
isn’t everyone’s<br />
idea of a holiday<br />
destination<br />
Enjoy Your Stay...<br />
at Colditz?<br />
DRESDEN Unlikely as it <strong>may</strong> seem, Colditz Castle, the<br />
infamous German POW camp, is making headlines<br />
again, having opened its doors as a hotel. For €24 (£22)<br />
a night, visitors to the castle can get the ultimate prisoner<br />
experience, with basic accommodation within the original<br />
German guard quarters and breakfast – porridge, perhaps?<br />
– in the inmates’ canteen. The castle joins other prisonsturned-hostelries,<br />
including the Långholmen in Stockholm<br />
and Ljubljana’s Hostel Celica, on what must surely be a list of<br />
the world’s strangest overnight stays. battlefi eldtours.co.uk
WORDS LARA DUNN | ILLUSTRATION © MARC ASPINALL<br />
THE BUZZ | JERSEY<br />
Wanderland<br />
It’s Spring Walking Week in<br />
Jersey on 12-19 May, so<br />
we’ve suggested a gamut<br />
of rambles you can do<br />
all-year round<br />
30 | TRAVELLER<br />
1<br />
A capital walk<br />
Jersey’s capital, St<br />
Helier – named after a<br />
6th-century martyr –<br />
is home to historical<br />
sculptures and dairy<br />
ice cream. A walk along<br />
the seafront, with its<br />
many yachts, celebrates<br />
Jersey’s proud nautical<br />
tradition. Spot Elizabeth<br />
Castle and Hermitage<br />
Rock, where St Helier<br />
reputedly lived, which are<br />
both just off shore.<br />
Distance: 3.2km<br />
Rating: easy<br />
Download maps of these walks from jersey.com<br />
2<br />
Take a night stroll<br />
The third-highest tides in<br />
the world are in Jersey;<br />
when they roll away, a<br />
distinctly lunar landscape<br />
is revealed. Walking<br />
on this is inadvisable<br />
without a guide, so<br />
Jersey Walk Adventures<br />
(jerseywalkadventures.<br />
co.uk) off er nighttime<br />
‘moonwalks’ across sand<br />
bars, past rock pools and<br />
out to the Seymour or<br />
Icho Towers.<br />
Distance: 3km<br />
Rating: moderate<br />
3<br />
Wine-tasting<br />
wander<br />
The church at St Mary’s<br />
Parish dates back to<br />
William the Conqueror<br />
in 1042. Doubtless he’d<br />
have enjoyed a visit to La<br />
Mare Wine Estate, which<br />
produces around 18,000<br />
bottles of wine a year.<br />
This walk also takes in<br />
the beautiful coast near<br />
Grève de Lecq, and passes<br />
close to a glassworks and<br />
jewellery workshop.<br />
Distance: 11.2km<br />
Rating: moderate
4<br />
West-coast wend<br />
Follow this route for<br />
incredible views of surfers<br />
and BloKarters coasting<br />
the sandy beaches in<br />
their sailed carts, plus Les<br />
Mielles Nature Reserve<br />
and incredible sea views<br />
from the National Trust<br />
site at Les Monts Grantez.<br />
Pop into the Atlantic<br />
Hotel’s Michelin-starred<br />
Ocean Restaurant for the<br />
island’s best lunch, rich<br />
with Jersey cream.<br />
Distance: 13km<br />
Rating: moderate/hard<br />
5<br />
Trip the causeway<br />
Following a disused<br />
railway, this inland walk<br />
from St Aubin to La<br />
Corbière passes near a<br />
lavender farm that will<br />
be in full bloom by late<br />
May. The UK’s fi rst-ever<br />
concrete lighthouse<br />
– 19m-tall and dating<br />
back to 1874 – is at La<br />
Corbière. Reach it via a<br />
causeway at low tide. See<br />
theportofj ersey.com for<br />
tide times.<br />
Distance: 8.9km<br />
Rating: moderate/hard
THE BUZZ | BIG QUESTION<br />
FOR SEAFOOD FANS<br />
MANCHESTER<br />
The adventure Pull on a pair of<br />
waders and head out to the home of the<br />
world-famous Morecambe Bay shrimps.<br />
Hitch a ride on a vintage tractor to<br />
drag nets through the mud fl ats of this<br />
beautiful bay, while learning all about the<br />
crustaceans and other regional seafood.<br />
The skills With guidance from local<br />
fi shermen and expert chefs, students are<br />
taught how to read the tides, then catch,<br />
peel, prepare and pot their own shrimps<br />
and learn other seafood recipes.<br />
The stay The nearby Swan Hotel &<br />
Spa off ers a comfortable place for the<br />
night, with cosy rooms; a local, seasonal<br />
restaurant; pampering spa and heated<br />
indoor pool – just in case you haven’t had<br />
quite enough of being damp by then.<br />
From £119 (€142) for a double room<br />
at The Swan Hotel & Spa (swanhotel.<br />
com). Tours need to be pre-booked and<br />
are subject to tides and weather. They<br />
cost £25pp through Taste Cumbria<br />
(tastecumbria.com). Morecambe Bay is a<br />
90-minute drive from Manchester Airport.<br />
32 | TRAVELLER<br />
“Where are the<br />
best adventures<br />
for foodies?”<br />
Cookery classes are so passé these days. Food<br />
writer Rosie Birkett dishes up her top three trips if<br />
you want to take culinary holidays to the next level<br />
FOR WINE BUFFS<br />
PORTO<br />
The adventure Immerse yourself in all<br />
things grape in the Douro Valley, an area<br />
renowned for its traditional vineyards.<br />
Luxurious wine spa hotel The Yeatman,<br />
on the banks of the Douro River, provides<br />
a comfortable base to explore the region<br />
and enjoy its produce.<br />
The skills The hotel can arrange trips to<br />
explore the vineyards and is just a short<br />
train ride from the valley. Discover how<br />
wine and port are made in the traditional<br />
way – by stamping on the grapes – and,<br />
if you time your visit with the September<br />
harvest, you can have a go yourself.<br />
The stay The Yeatman overlooks the<br />
UNESCO-recognised centre of Porto and<br />
has one of the world’s most extensive<br />
collections of Portuguese wines, a<br />
Michelin-starred restaurant, a decantershaped<br />
pool and vinotherapy spa. For the<br />
wine obsessive, the Taylor Master Suite<br />
off ers a bed inside a port barrel (above).<br />
From €214 for a double room. Book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com. The hotel is a<br />
25-minute drive from Porto Airport.<br />
FOR LUXURY GOURMETS<br />
PISA<br />
The adventure Take a walk though the<br />
beautiful Tuscan woodland with Giulio<br />
Benuzzi and his dedicated dog, Edda,<br />
whose olfactory powers help him sniff<br />
out the elusive luxury fungus. Afterwards,<br />
lunch in a traditional Tuscan villa includes<br />
dishes such as bruschetta with fresh<br />
truffl es or truffl e tagliatelle.<br />
The skills Giulio, who has made truffl es<br />
his life, will guide you through the science<br />
behind how the mystical delicacies grow,<br />
and show you how to clean and store<br />
them. You can also take a cookery course<br />
here to learn truffl e-based recipes.<br />
The stay Tuscan farmhouse hotel Villa<br />
Olmi in Bagno a Ripoli, a short distance<br />
from the heart of Florence, is a suitably<br />
rustic, stylish place to base yourself.<br />
Giulio can arrange pick-up from here or<br />
any other hotel in and around Florence.<br />
From €174 for a double room at Villa<br />
Olmi. Book at hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Tour with truffl e lunch from €220 per<br />
person (truffl ehunter.net). Florence is an<br />
80-minute drive from Pisa airport.
WIN A TRIP TO<br />
THE WORLD’S<br />
FAVOURITE<br />
FESTIVAL CITY<br />
Each summer the eyes of the cultural<br />
world turn to Edinburgh’s Festivals.<br />
With events and shows involving over<br />
25,000 world class artists, you’ll find<br />
something around every corner.<br />
“Unique is an overused word,<br />
but it absolutely applies here.<br />
August in Edinburgh is like no<br />
place else on earth.” Time Out<br />
“In August each year Edinburgh<br />
becomes the world’s cultural<br />
capital, hosting the biggest<br />
collection of arts festivals on the<br />
planet.” Wanderlust Magazine<br />
To win a trip for two to<br />
Edinburgh’s Festivals,<br />
enter our free competition at<br />
edinburghfestivals.co.uk/flytowin
WORDS CHRIS BEANLAND, STEPHANIE YIP |PHOTO © MEDIASERVER.HAMBURG.DE/C. SPAHRBIER, DIDIER GUY<br />
BOOK AHEAD<br />
Planning a trip over the<br />
next few months? Make a<br />
note in your diary and get<br />
to one of these events<br />
JULY<br />
Benicassim Festival<br />
BARCELONA<br />
Whatever else you’re up to this<br />
summer, be sure to save 12-15 July<br />
for partying with the hordes at<br />
Benicassim. Those who have been<br />
to this four-day music festival say<br />
it’s Europe’s best and this year they<br />
might be right. An impressive line-up<br />
has already been confi rmed, with Bob<br />
SEPTEMBER<br />
Reeperbahn Festival<br />
HAMBURG<br />
It might be Europe’s most<br />
raunchy destination but for one<br />
weekend, on 20-22 September,<br />
the Reeperbahn – and the St<br />
Pauli district around it – will<br />
become the centre of a cool<br />
arts-and-music celebration. The<br />
Reeperbahn Festival showcases<br />
bohemian culture through spoken<br />
Dylan, reformed Manchester band<br />
The Stone Roses, Florence and the<br />
Machine and Noel Gallagher booking<br />
out the main stage, and more names<br />
pending. What makes it really special,<br />
however, is the setting: when things<br />
hot up in the crowds, just pop along to<br />
the beach and cool down in the Med.<br />
benicassimfestival.co.uk<br />
word, comics, fi lms, talks and<br />
exhibitions, while by night there<br />
are gigs by hot, upcoming bands<br />
in the venues along the legendarily<br />
debauched strip. It confi rms what<br />
the citizens of Hamburg already<br />
know: that theirs is one of the<br />
most cutting-edge, coolest cities<br />
in northern Europe.<br />
reeperbahnfestival.com<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
AUGUST<br />
La Route du<br />
Champagne<br />
LILLE/BRUSSELS<br />
Despite the growing popularity of cava<br />
and prosecco, many still believe that<br />
nothing but the French bubbly will do.<br />
For these folk (and, yes, the rest of us),<br />
La Route du Champagne weekend<br />
of 4-5 August is a little piece of<br />
heaven. More than 20 top producers<br />
– including Demilly, Drappier, Favier<br />
Hubert and Cheq Gaston – in villages<br />
around the famous Champagne<br />
triangle will open their doors for free<br />
tastings. Buy a special-edition fl ute for<br />
€10 from one of the visitor centres –<br />
that’s your key to try a snifter of their<br />
wares – and you’re off on a tasting<br />
adventure. By night there are dinners,<br />
dances and live music too.<br />
<strong>2012</strong>.routeduchampagne.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 35
THE BUZZ | IBIZA<br />
The Party’s<br />
Starting...<br />
Are you ready for the best summer ever?<br />
As Ibiza’s season opens this month, here’s<br />
the lowdown on the can’t-miss events<br />
Just to say the word Ibiza is to conjure up a vision of<br />
shimmering sunsets, packed-out superclubs and, well, probably<br />
a killer hangover or two. But whether you’re a rave-all-night type<br />
or in search of more blissed-out Balearic beats, Ibiza’s party<br />
scene is the place to be. It’s been luring people to the idyllic<br />
island for years – and this season looks set to be more epic<br />
than ever before. But where to go? From DJs to promoters and<br />
clubbing gurus, we spoke to those in the know to get their tips<br />
for the hottest must-dos of <strong>2012</strong>.<br />
THE ICONIC CLUB<br />
DIRECTOR<br />
Danny Whittle, brand<br />
director at Pacha<br />
“There’s never been such a<br />
big buzz in the lead up to the<br />
season. From the last week<br />
of May, with the opening<br />
of Pacha (pacha.com), the<br />
second year of [cabaret<br />
restaurant] Lio (lioibizacom)<br />
and the International Music<br />
Summit (IMS, 23–25 May;<br />
internationalmusicsummit.<br />
com), it’s going to be huge.”<br />
36 | TRAVELLER<br />
Left, Ushuaïa,<br />
whose opening<br />
weekend party will<br />
take place on<br />
26-27 May,<br />
featuring Luciano<br />
and Fatboy Slim<br />
THE DANCE MUSIC<br />
JOURNALIST<br />
Nick Stevenson, associate<br />
editor at Mixmag and Ibiza<br />
regular since 2000<br />
“For me, the season will kick<br />
off with the International<br />
Music Festival’s fi nale party<br />
on the historic Dalt Vila, with<br />
a performance by Azari & III<br />
(25 May). In June, the clubs<br />
open. A highlight will be Armin<br />
van Buuren, who’s moved<br />
from Space to Privilege on<br />
Mondays (starts 25 June). The<br />
Mixmag Terrace at Cream,<br />
Amnesia (Thursdays), is a<br />
guaranteed blinder, too.”<br />
THE SUPERSTAR DJ<br />
Bob Sinclar, French DJ,<br />
producer and re-mixer<br />
“The energy in Ibiza is like no<br />
other place in the world and<br />
the party vibe is incredible.<br />
When the season starts, it’s<br />
the beginning of an amazing<br />
journey. I love to DJ at outdoor<br />
clubs and bars, like Café<br />
Mambo (opens 18 May;<br />
cafemamboibiza.com) in San<br />
Antonio. What a joy to play<br />
music to the sexiest crowd,<br />
dancing in the sunshine!”<br />
THE RECORD LABEL BOSS<br />
Simon Dunmore, founder of<br />
Defected Records<br />
“For those who know Ibiza,<br />
Defected In The House at<br />
Pacha is the Saturday night<br />
party of choice (starts 26<br />
May). Whether you’re a<br />
hardened club fanatic, a VIP<br />
or an Ibiza newbie, you’ll love<br />
it. Outdoor clubbing and pool<br />
parties have recently become<br />
very popular, and the new<br />
must-be-seen-at hang-out<br />
will be The One Hotel (Cap<br />
Martinet South, Santa Eulalia<br />
del Rio, Jesús). Set on a cliff<br />
top, with spectacular views,<br />
the hotel opens for the fi rst<br />
time at the end of June.”
THE MUSIC MAESTRO<br />
Zane Lowe, Radio 1 DJ and<br />
music director of Ibiza Rocks<br />
“I’m really excited this year<br />
about the new night, W.A.R.<br />
(We Are Rockstars, starts<br />
8 June), taking place at the<br />
Ibiza Rocks Hotel on Fridays<br />
(ibizarocks.com). It’s going<br />
to be the fi rst time Mark<br />
Ronson and I will debut our<br />
new show – it’ll be the most<br />
fun you can have this side of<br />
your own imagination. And I<br />
<strong>may</strong> be biased, but you can’t<br />
go wrong with the events BBC<br />
Radio 1 put on each summer.”<br />
THE CLUB PROGRAMMER<br />
Mark Broadbent, musical<br />
director of We Love Music<br />
and booker for We Love<br />
Space, now in its 14th year<br />
(starts 10 June)<br />
“I look forward to the<br />
‘happenings’ that spring up<br />
almost unannounced around<br />
the island on the beaches<br />
near Talamanca Bay. The<br />
best way of fi nding out about<br />
these is to buy the local paper<br />
and see what the council is<br />
saying or ask a local. The guys<br />
from Ibiza Rocks have taken<br />
control of the old Pikes Hotel<br />
(ibizarocks.com/house) near<br />
San Antonio and this is the<br />
place to be seen. Hang out<br />
with popstars and drink from<br />
a silver slipper, while Jade<br />
Jagger and Philippe Starck<br />
froth around in the pool.”<br />
THE CLUBBING CHANNEL<br />
BROADCASTER<br />
Ray Smith, CEO of B@ TV,<br />
purveyor of online DJ sets<br />
“With Luciano headlining a<br />
Ushuaïa opening party<br />
(26 May; ushuaiabeachhotel.<br />
com), it looks like it’s going to<br />
be another massive season<br />
for the club, following on from<br />
its phenomenal success last<br />
year. And Tiesto will pick up<br />
where Swedish House Mafi a<br />
left off at Pacha (starts 28<br />
May), making Monday the<br />
biggest night of the week.”<br />
THE BUZZ | IBIZA<br />
THE MUSIC INDUSTRY<br />
INSIDER<br />
Ben Turner, founder of<br />
Graphite music management<br />
and co-founder of the<br />
International Music Summit<br />
“Ibiza <strong>2012</strong> is the year of<br />
change. There has never<br />
been a summer with so many<br />
artists moving venues, new<br />
residencies launching and<br />
the addition of a festival and<br />
music conference. IMS has<br />
teamed up with Live Nation<br />
to present the Ibiza 123<br />
Festival in San Antonio (1-3<br />
July; ibiza123festival.com),<br />
seeing iconic pop and rock<br />
artists collaborating with<br />
electronic acts. Lenny Kravitz<br />
with Luciano? Who could<br />
have imagined it? Add Richie<br />
Hawtin’s Thursday residency<br />
at Space (spaceibiza.com)<br />
with his Enter concept, uniting<br />
technology, electronica and<br />
the Ibiza party spirit. What<br />
won’t change is the island’s<br />
insane tempo, its durability or<br />
the sheer life-affi rming quality<br />
of a visit.”<br />
TRAVELLER | 37<br />
WORDS LAURA MARTIN | PHOTO GETTY
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THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
HOTEL REVIEWS | NEWS & OFFERS<br />
sleep easy<br />
Grand Hotel Villa Tuscolana<br />
ROME<br />
From its hillside position, this palace in<br />
the commune of Frascati has stunning<br />
views over nearby Rome. Dating back<br />
to the mid-16th century, the villa was<br />
an opulent private residence for gentry<br />
before being transformed into a hotel in<br />
1996, and all the luxuries that a count or<br />
duke could ever desire are still in place.<br />
Every attention has been paid<br />
to details in the hotel’s 100 rooms,<br />
40 | TRAVELLER<br />
The Masters’ Suites<br />
of the Varsity Hotel<br />
have fantastic views<br />
over Cambridge<br />
where antique furniture, paintings<br />
and frescoed ceilings remain intact,<br />
while Tuscolana’s striking façade and<br />
manicured gardens make for a dramatic<br />
setting to any Roman stay.<br />
Contemporary meets old world in<br />
the Lympha Spa, where you can bathe<br />
like an emperor and enjoy ayurvedic<br />
massage, while La Rufi nella restaurant<br />
serves a daily menu of local seafood.<br />
From €120, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Varsity Hotel<br />
LONDON STANSTED<br />
Like estate agents, hoteliers have their<br />
own special language in which, too<br />
often, “boutique” means nothing more<br />
than “poky”. It’s a delight, therefore,<br />
to fi nd that when the term is applied<br />
to this Cambridge hotel, it means a<br />
small-but-perfectly formed example of<br />
understated opulence.<br />
With nods to the city’s intellectual<br />
heritage, this neat little charmer comes<br />
from a group of Cambridge alumni who<br />
opened its doors in 2010. Their affection<br />
for the city is evident in the collegeinspired<br />
names of its 48 rooms and<br />
four Masters’ Suites – St John’s, Jesus,<br />
Trinity and Clare – which have fourposter<br />
beds and 270° picture windows.<br />
Appropriately, the hotel’s crowning<br />
glory is its summer roof terrace, where<br />
sunglassed urbanites sip G&Ts, while,<br />
conveniently for guests, adjoining<br />
buildings house the buzzing River Bar<br />
Steakhouse and Aveda spa<br />
Just 40 minutes from Stansted<br />
airport, this very British bolthole<br />
is becoming the go-to place in<br />
the university town for stylish<br />
surroundings, friendly service and a real<br />
boutique experience. From £182 (€218),<br />
book at hotels.easyJet.com
WORDS AMY DENNIS, SARAH WARWICK, SARAH LANE<br />
N.<br />
3<br />
OF THE<br />
BEST<br />
LONDON<br />
How do the creative types of east London<br />
get through such menial tasks as meetings?<br />
They head to one of the hottest hotels in<br />
town, of course, where delicious bistro<br />
dishes can be delivered straight to the oak<br />
tables of the hotel’s six meeting rooms and,<br />
if things overrun, the beds are very cosy.<br />
From £89 (€106), book at hoxtonhotels.com<br />
BUSINESS HOTELS<br />
BERLIN<br />
Newly refurbished, this smart conference<br />
hotel now has 16 meeting rooms with<br />
capacity for up to 500 people. If business is<br />
slow, there’s plenty to keep you entertained<br />
in the Executive Lounge, plus the views over<br />
Berlin’s Gendarmenmarkt from the suites’<br />
fl oor-to-ceiling windows are wunderbar.<br />
From €109, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
HOXTON HOTEL HILTON CROWNE PLAZA<br />
LATEST NEWS<br />
LONDON<br />
Once the home of London’s fi nest<br />
newspapers, Fleet Street now welcomes<br />
the city’s newest luxury hotel. The<br />
four-star Apex Temple Court Hotel has<br />
spacious communal areas, an interior<br />
courtyard, and bright rooms and suites<br />
– some with balcony views over the<br />
city’s east end. Comfort is key here: all<br />
184 rooms have king-size beds and Bose<br />
sound docks. On a site of historic value,<br />
which housed the crusading Knights<br />
Templar in the 12th century, the hotel<br />
is also close to the river Thames and<br />
St Paul’s Cathedral. From £117 (€140),<br />
book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
BRUSSELS<br />
The Thon Hotel EU is a fi tting new<br />
addition to the array of places to stay<br />
in the nerve centre of the European<br />
Union. Since it opened at the beginning<br />
of April, hundreds of diplomats have<br />
come through its doors to enjoy one<br />
of the 405 rooms, attracted, no doubt,<br />
by the idea of a four-star hotel that<br />
prioritises the needs of its business<br />
customers. Conference facilities here are<br />
top-notch and can accommodate up to<br />
300 people. There are also 10 meeting<br />
rooms, video-conferencing facilities<br />
and an open-air terrace that can host<br />
working lunches for 60. From €67, book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
VIENNA<br />
It’s the striking red and black décor that<br />
distinguishes the Amedia Hotel Wein<br />
GENEVA<br />
Close to both the airport and business<br />
district, this huge hotel was made for<br />
meetings and greetings. In terms of on-site<br />
facilities, the hotel can host up to 1,200<br />
people, while those who prefer to do<br />
business in the outdoors can network on<br />
one of the surrounding golf courses. From<br />
€118, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Thon Hotel EU is within<br />
easy walking distance<br />
of most of the<br />
European Institutions<br />
from other recent openings. The chain<br />
hotel debuted in the late spring and<br />
now offers 187 guest rooms with free<br />
WiFi, fi ve conference rooms, a Wellness<br />
area with steam bath and sauna, and<br />
underground parking in the heart of<br />
the Landstrasse commercial district.<br />
It all makes for another convenient<br />
destination for the urban traveller. From<br />
€62, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 41
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
Tram<br />
Experience<br />
BRUSSELS<br />
Expect a menu that’s miles above the<br />
usual rail-refreshment trolley fare when<br />
you board this real-life moveable feast.<br />
In a converted tram that sets off<br />
from Place Poelaert, this unique<br />
experience sees diners tucking into<br />
Michelin-starred Belgian cuisine as they<br />
take a two-hour tour of the city.<br />
It’s all part of the tourist board’s<br />
Brusselicious year, which has seen a<br />
series of culinary events taking place in<br />
the Belgian capital over recent months.<br />
The three-course seasonal menu,<br />
along with the chef, changes every<br />
couple of weeks, so guests are<br />
guaranteed a unique meal.<br />
On our visit, Korean-Belgian<br />
Michelin-starred chef Sang-Hoon<br />
Degeimbre, of L’air du Temps, served up<br />
a cracking selection of country classics<br />
Lúa<br />
MADRID<br />
Manuel Domínguez must like a<br />
challenge. As chef and owner of<br />
Madrid’s newest dining hotspot, Lúa,<br />
he has taken the decision to change the<br />
menu every week. Diners can choose<br />
from either a set three- or fi ve-course<br />
selection, and the full tasting menu<br />
includes a welcome appetiser of lentil<br />
and boletus foam.<br />
It’s already a big hit with food-savvy<br />
locals, who fl ock to the modern dining<br />
room as much for the views afforded<br />
over the city through fl oor-to-ceiling<br />
windows as the delicious fare.<br />
Back in the kitchen, Domínguez is<br />
guided by what produce is in season<br />
and these ingredients are meticulously<br />
reworked into Iberian-French haute<br />
cuisine. The inspiration for his wellthought-out<br />
dishes comes from his<br />
mother and grandmother’s recipes from<br />
the Galician town of Ourense. Main<br />
42 | TRAVELLER<br />
with a contemporary twist. The kiwi<br />
and oyster amuse-bouche, a child of<br />
molecular gastronomy, was an unlikely<br />
but winning combination, while the<br />
mussels and chips were a real joy.<br />
For most of May, Thierry Theys,<br />
not yet 30 and already at the helm<br />
of two-Michelin-starred restaurant<br />
courses include a delicate, candied roast<br />
piglet served with stewed peaches.<br />
The food’s presentation is what you<br />
would expect from a Michelin-starred<br />
chef who draws in his spare time – the<br />
chocolate ice-cream dessert decorated<br />
with berries and a sugar sculpture is<br />
akin to some magnifi cent coral from the<br />
Naunce will be in charge of surprising<br />
your palate. Be sure to make a<br />
reservation because the 34 covers in the<br />
tram are proving very popular.<br />
A three-course meal with Champagne<br />
and wine costs €75 per person. Place<br />
Poelaert; visitbrussels.be<br />
Gaspard Sebag<br />
sea. Yet, despite this attention to detail,<br />
Domínguez still pops out regularly to<br />
speak to guests and make sure everyone<br />
is enjoying this grand experience.<br />
Full tasting menu, €49. 5 Paseo<br />
Eduardo Dato; tel: +34 913 952 853,<br />
restaurantelua.com<br />
Scott Adams
PROMOTION<br />
LIFE’S A BEACH<br />
LOVED BY THE WORLD’S BEST DJS AND INTERNATIONAL PARTY SEEKERS,<br />
ZRĆE BEACH IS THE CLUBBING WORLD’S BEST-KEPT SECRET<br />
SUPERSTAR DJS know a good party<br />
when they see one. So it should come as<br />
little surprise that the world’s best have<br />
travelled to Zr ć e Beach, on the Croatian<br />
island of Pag, to play to hordes of<br />
enthusiastic clubbers for 10 years now.<br />
Pag was once a sleepy fi shing island,<br />
but Zr ć e has now become the number<br />
one destination for clued-up clubbers.<br />
The two main clubs on Zr ć e are Club<br />
Papaya - named the #30 club in the<br />
world by DJ Magazine - and Aquarius,<br />
Zagreb’s famous club which relocates<br />
to the island during the summer.<br />
Here, revellers enjoy cocktails and<br />
pumped-up sound systems in the stylish<br />
beach terrace bars at the infamous After<br />
Beach Parties by day, before dancing<br />
under the stars and feeling the euphoria<br />
as the sun rises over the Adriatic Sea.<br />
Papaya and Aquarius have got an<br />
exciting <strong>2012</strong> season ahead, hosting bigname<br />
DJs such as Armin Van Buuren,<br />
Eddie Halliwell, Annie Mac, Axwell,<br />
Kinky Malinki, Fedde Le Grand, Benny<br />
Benassi, Eve and many more, as well as<br />
festivals such as Hideout, Fresh Island<br />
and Day and Night. Such big names are<br />
attracted here because of the unique<br />
crowd vibe and beautiful scenery.<br />
Zr ć e also hosts Big Beach - Croatia’s<br />
biggest open-air beach party - which<br />
will be headlined by the godfather of<br />
electronic music, Carl Cox, on 21 July.<br />
During the day, visitors can swim in the<br />
turquoise sea and enjoy activities such<br />
as bungee jumping, water skiing, cage<br />
ball and wakeboarding - or sample the<br />
delicious restaurants in nearby Novalja.<br />
Discover the secret of how to get<br />
to Zr ć e beach and begin your new<br />
clubbing adventure.<br />
“Superb crowd<br />
in Croatia!<br />
Absolutely crazy!!”<br />
Armin van Buuren<br />
Scan the QR code<br />
to fi nd out how to<br />
get to Zrće from your<br />
easyJet destination
YOU WILL BE TOTALLY MOVED<br />
DUATO | FORSYTHE | GOECKE<br />
Choreographies by Nacho Duato, William Forsythe and Marco Goecke<br />
With dancers of Staatsballett Berlin<br />
PREMIERE 27 APRIL <strong>2012</strong><br />
29 APRIL | 1 | 4 | 5 | 17 | 19 MAY | 2 JUNE <strong>2012</strong><br />
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLER THEATER<br />
www.staatsballett-berlin.de | Tickets +49 (0)30 – 20 60 92 630<br />
DIRECTORY | BERLIN<br />
You. 7 mates. 1 wild weekend<br />
in Europe’s coolest city.<br />
Like us on Facebook and you could win<br />
The Berlin Big One; including 2 nights<br />
for 8 people with complimentary food<br />
and drinks at the new ONE80° Hostel<br />
Alexanderplatz, plus a VIP table at one<br />
of Berlin’s hippest bars.<br />
Like us ONE80 HOSTELS<br />
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Berlin
FEATURES | BERLIN<br />
THE HEADY DAYS OF THE WEIMAR REPUBLIC ESTABLISHED BERLIN AS A PLACE<br />
WHERE ANYTHING GOES, AND THAT’S ALSO THE CASE TODAY, THANKS TO ITS<br />
LIBERTINE NIGHTLIFE. THIS IS NOT JUST A PARTY TOWN, HOWEVER – IT’S ALSO A<br />
MAGNET FOR ARTISTS, CULTURE HEADS AND DIGITAL-MEDIA TYPES. BUT WHERE<br />
TO GO? WE ASKED FIVE LOCAL EXPERTS TO GIVE US THEIR GUIDED TOURS<br />
PAUL SULLIVAN GUENTHER SCHWERING<br />
INSIDER’S GUIDE TO<br />
Berlin
THE CLUB KING<br />
DJ SCUBA<br />
In a city where nearly everyone claims to<br />
be a DJ, you have to make quite a mark<br />
to stand out. And Paul Rose, aka Scuba,<br />
does just that. Founder of Hotfl ush<br />
Recordings, one of the most cuttingedge<br />
electronic labels in the world, Rose<br />
relocated from London to Berlin in<br />
2007 and he’s never looked back. “What<br />
the clubs reminded me of immediately<br />
is how London was in the mid-1990s,"<br />
he says. "They’ve got that combination<br />
of being really laid-back but intensely<br />
hedonistic, which is completely different<br />
to how London is now. Clubs here can<br />
run as long as they want, which means<br />
people go out a lot later and stay out a<br />
lot later.”<br />
In 2008, Scuba started what has<br />
become one of Berlin’s most famous club<br />
nights, SUB:STANCE, at legendary<br />
nightclub Berghain. And despite being<br />
busy with gigs, running his label and<br />
remixing, he recently found time to<br />
release his third album, Personality, a<br />
genre-spanning journey across dance<br />
music. It's all in a day's (or night's) work.<br />
“What the clubs<br />
reminded me<br />
of immediately<br />
is how London<br />
was in the<br />
mid-1990s”<br />
SCUBA ON<br />
NIGHTLIFE<br />
FEATURES | BERLIN<br />
A-TRANE<br />
One of the best places to catch<br />
live jazz in Berlin (above). It’s also<br />
a good excuse to check out the<br />
west of the city, which has a very<br />
diff erent vibe from the east. (105<br />
Pestalozzistrasse; a-trane.de)<br />
BECKETT'S KOPF<br />
This hidden bar (look for the picture<br />
of author Samuel Beckett and ring<br />
the doorbell to get in) has a seasonal<br />
drinks menu, but the barman knows<br />
his way round an Old Fashioned too<br />
(64 Pappelallee; becketts-kopf.de).<br />
CLUB DER VISIONAERE<br />
A nice spot by the river with great<br />
DJs (usually techno) and surprise<br />
guests. Perfect for summer evenings<br />
or after-hours clubbing (1 Am<br />
Flutgraben; clubdervisionaere.com).<br />
HORST<br />
They put on some really interesting<br />
nights at Horst, from hip hop to<br />
dubstep and beyond, pushing<br />
the musical boundaries in a way<br />
that’s not so common in Berlin<br />
(1 Tempelhofer Ufer; horst-krzbrg.de).<br />
BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR<br />
The obvious choice, but still the<br />
best club in the world. If you can’t<br />
make it for a SUB:STANCE night,<br />
which are on occasional Fridays,<br />
the best time to go is on a Sunday<br />
morning (Am Wriezener Bahnhof;<br />
berghain.de).<br />
TRAVELLER | 47
FEATURES | BERLIN<br />
THE FOOD BLOGGER<br />
LUISA WEISS<br />
Berlin-born chef and writer Luisa<br />
Weiss is one of the city’s best-loved<br />
foodies. Since 2005 she has run<br />
the popular Wednesday Chef blog<br />
(thewednesdaychef.com), penning<br />
excellent recipes and food news from the<br />
city. More recently, her blog, Berlin On<br />
A Platter, has become the place to read<br />
about her food discoveries, ranging from<br />
hole-in-the-wall Asian restaurants, to<br />
new grocery stores and green markets.<br />
48 | TRAVELLER<br />
“I guess I use food and cooking as a way<br />
of making sense of little things in my<br />
life,” she says.<br />
With one parent in the USA, Luisa<br />
spent 10 years in NYC before moving<br />
back to Berlin in 2009. Her writings<br />
have grown so famous that she recently<br />
inked a deal for a “food memoir”. The<br />
book, called My Berlin Kitchen: A Love<br />
Story (with Recipes), will be published<br />
by Viking in September.<br />
“I guess I use food and<br />
cooking as a way of making<br />
sense of little things in my life”<br />
WEISS ON<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
SASAYA<br />
Snag a seat at the bar of this<br />
authentic Japanese restaurant in<br />
Prenzlauer Berg (above) to watch<br />
the head chef’s hands fl y as he<br />
prepares fresh, delicious sushi – the<br />
cooked items are great too (50<br />
Lychenerstrasse; sasaya-berlin.de).<br />
IL CASOLARE<br />
This bustling Italian restaurant in<br />
Kreuzberg is run by punk-music fans<br />
and serves the only pizza in Berlin<br />
worth eating (30 Grimmstrasse;<br />
tel: +49 (0)30 6950 6610).<br />
ENGELBECKEN<br />
Come to this rustic yet elegant<br />
Charlottenburg spot for crisp,<br />
dinner-plate-sized schnitzel and<br />
delicious potato salad, just a few<br />
steps from the Lietzensee (31<br />
Witzlebenstrasse; engelbecken.de).<br />
LE PIAF<br />
An intimate, warm and unassuming<br />
French restaurant on a quiet street<br />
near the Schloss Charlottenburg.<br />
It features a rotating menu of<br />
specialities from diff erent regions of<br />
France (60 Schlossstrasse; le-piaf.de).<br />
CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS<br />
Breakfast at this stately villa just<br />
off the Kurfürstendamm is one<br />
of the nicest ways to start the<br />
weekend. If it’s warm, try to get a<br />
seat outside (23 Fasanenstrasse;<br />
literaturhaus-berlin.de).<br />
PHOTO © AHASVER
THE ART INSIDER<br />
DR THOMAS RUSCHE<br />
As a scion of the famous Rusche textile<br />
dynasty set up by his great-grandfather,<br />
it's hardly a surprise that Thomas<br />
Rusche should have sophisticated<br />
tastes. Even as a boy, he attended art<br />
auctions, exhibitions and major fairs<br />
inspired by his father, a collector of<br />
17th-century Dutch masters.<br />
Now a world-renowned art collector<br />
in his own right, for Rusche Berlin<br />
means high culture: “There are so many<br />
young and international, as well as<br />
established, artists working and living<br />
here," he says, "that for me as a collector<br />
it’s more than exciting.” An all-round<br />
aesthete, he’s also CEO of luxury fashion<br />
store SØR and has penned a bestselling<br />
sartorial book, A Well-Dressed<br />
Gentleman’s Pocket Guide, under the pen<br />
name Oscar Lenius.<br />
“In the 1920s, Berlin was one of<br />
the most important cities in Europe in<br />
terms of fashion and art. That changed<br />
with WWII and the Wall, but today<br />
Berlin has recaptured this potential. It’s<br />
a diverse metropolis that holds its own<br />
alongside cities like London or New<br />
York. It’s very distinctive and special.”<br />
FEATURES | BERLIN<br />
DR RUSCHE ON<br />
CULTURE<br />
AUGUSTSTRASSE, MITTE<br />
A street full of art and culture,<br />
as well as the iconic Clärchens<br />
Ballhaus, with great galleries,<br />
such as me Collectors Room,<br />
and a renovated former Jewish<br />
girls' school, Haus der Kunst und<br />
Esskultur (House of Art and Dining<br />
Culture) – a massive three fl oors of<br />
galleries and restaurants.<br />
OLD NATIONAL GALLERY<br />
For a change from contemporary<br />
art, visit the Alte Nationalgalerie<br />
(above) for some Old Masters (1-3<br />
Bodestrasse; smb.museum).<br />
LITERATURE HOUSE<br />
A great place for interesting<br />
readings, especially nice in<br />
summer, thanks to the lovely<br />
garden (23 Fasanenstrasse Strasse:<br />
literaturhaus-berlin.de),<br />
VOLKSBÜHNE<br />
As well as amazing theatre<br />
productions, this is a good place to<br />
watch great bands on a small scale<br />
and see exciting experimental works<br />
(Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz;<br />
volksbuehne-berlin.de).<br />
PIANO SALON CHRISTOPHORI<br />
Regular concerts with fantastic<br />
international guests from the fi eld<br />
of chamber music and jazz, and<br />
piano recitals, with concerts held in<br />
the bank buildings (8 Uferstrasse;<br />
konzertfl uegel.com).<br />
TRAVELLER | 49
FEATURES | BERLIN<br />
THE FASHION ICON<br />
CLAUDIA SKODA<br />
Claudia Skoda is one of Berlin’s key<br />
fashion veterans. In 1975, she started<br />
her label from a Kreuzberg factory. The<br />
space, which became an open house<br />
for artists and musicians, soon drew<br />
comparisons with Andy Warhol's own<br />
Factory. In 1981, she then opened her<br />
fi rst store in SoHo, New York - opposite<br />
Vivienne Westwood’s. Then, when the<br />
Berlin Wall fell in 1989, Skoda opened<br />
her fi rst German branch. “The city was<br />
isolated, so you couldn't fi nd cool, young<br />
fashion at that time,” she remembers.<br />
50 | TRAVELLER<br />
“You had to go to Amsterdam and<br />
London.” By 2000, however, all that had<br />
changed and Skoda opened a second<br />
shop in Linienstrasse, Mitte, before<br />
fi nally settling in Alte-Schönhauser-<br />
Strasse, where she now works and lives.<br />
Her current store sells Skoda’s distinctive<br />
and highly sought-after knitwear<br />
designs. “I fi nd Berlin very special<br />
because it follows its own inspirations,”<br />
she says. “The history, the art scene,<br />
the young musicians… These are what<br />
makes the city so inspiring.”<br />
SKODA ON<br />
SHOPPING<br />
TORSTRASSE<br />
Just stroll along this street, which<br />
is dirty, loud and interesting, and<br />
where everything is a bit hidden or<br />
special. It’s still original Berlin<br />
(Torstrasse, Mitte).<br />
ANDREAS MURKUDIS<br />
High-quality, very well chosen<br />
design that spans clothing,<br />
furniture, porcelain, even silver<br />
(above, 81E Potsdamer Strasse;<br />
andreasmurkudis.com).<br />
TRIPPEN<br />
You can always fi nd shoes here that<br />
you can’t fi nd anywhere else. Most<br />
are handmade in Germany – it’s a<br />
unique brand (45 Alte Schönhauser<br />
Strasse; trippen.com).<br />
STRASSE DES 17 JUNI<br />
FLEAMARKET<br />
On Saturday and Sunday, 11am-7pm,<br />
you can fi nd everything right here, in<br />
the middle of the Tiergarten, between<br />
east and west Berlin (Strasse des 17<br />
Juni; berliner-troedelmarkt.de).<br />
ZEIT FÜR BROT<br />
This new organic bakery is a<br />
great place to sit and watch the<br />
fashion people (and wannabees)<br />
passing by on the street<br />
(4 Alte Schönhauserstrasse;<br />
tel: +49 (0)30 2804 6781).
“Our aim is to create a space<br />
where people can share stories<br />
from all over the world”<br />
THE LITERARY NETWORKER<br />
SHARMAINE LOVEGROVE<br />
Berlin has a vibrant literary scene,<br />
with dozens of bookshops and regular<br />
events catering to both German and<br />
international audiences. Although<br />
it only opened in 2009, Dialogue<br />
Books (dialoguebooks.org) is at the<br />
forefront, thanks to founder Sharmaine<br />
Lovegrove. A British ex-pat, she<br />
regularly curates events, readings and<br />
happenings around the city that often<br />
take place in the coolest hotels.<br />
“Berlin is a city with countless stories.<br />
At Dialogue, our aim is to create a space<br />
where people can share stories and<br />
ideas from all over the world using an<br />
international language,” she enthuses.<br />
“When people come to our space and<br />
have engaged in a story or a discussion<br />
that they can share with others, then I<br />
am fulfi lling my goal.”<br />
Lovegrove runs literary salons at<br />
various venues from Soho House and<br />
Café Hilde to the Direktorenhaus and<br />
her Kreuzberg bookshop. She is also<br />
currently establishing Germany’s fi rst<br />
English-language literary agency.<br />
FEATURES | BERLIN<br />
LOVEGROVE ON<br />
HOTELS<br />
SOHO HOUSE BERLIN<br />
Luxury without breaking the bank,<br />
Soho House (above) is the perfect<br />
place to relax after a day bargaining<br />
at the fl ea markets or wild nights on<br />
the Berlin club scene (1 Torstrasse;<br />
sohohouseberlin.com).<br />
HÜTTENPALAST<br />
With three caravans and two<br />
Alpine huts within its indoor space,<br />
this is such a great idea and it<br />
encompasses all that is wonderful,<br />
quirky and engaging about Berlin (66<br />
Hobrechtstrasse; huettenpalast.de).<br />
PENSION BERLIN<br />
This gem of a place is super fun,<br />
kitsch – and has a fantastic host<br />
called Frank (33 Schönleinstrasse;<br />
airbnb.co.uk/rooms/181160).<br />
CIRCUS APARTMENTS<br />
Über-stylish and ideally located, these<br />
apartments are the latest addition<br />
to the ever-reliable Circus franchise<br />
(84 Choriner Strasse; circus-berlin.de).<br />
NHOW HOTEL<br />
If you’ve come for the legendary<br />
music scene, this high-concept<br />
hotel, with its focus on music,<br />
fashion and art, will hit the<br />
right note (3 Stralauer Allee;<br />
nhow-hotels.com).<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Berlin from 37 destinations.<br />
See our insider guide on<br />
page 110. Book online at<br />
easyJet.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 51
KETCHUP TEXT BY WIL GRIFFITHS, PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRETT FOURIE. BURGER STYLING XENIA VON OSWALD, PHOTOGRAPHY ANIA WAWRZKOWICZ<br />
A-Z THE BEST WAY TO SAMPLE THE FLAVOUR OF A CITY IS THROUGH<br />
ITS STREET FOOD. WHETHER IT COMES FROM AGE-OLD RECIPES OR<br />
NEW INNOVATIONS, THE CHOICE TODAY IS VAST, SO JOIN US FOR A<br />
TRULY GASTRONOMIC TOUR OF OUR NETWORK
A is for arancini<br />
They <strong>may</strong> be Sicily’s favourite snack,<br />
but these saffron-fl avoured rice balls,<br />
which are fi lled with ragù, rolled in<br />
breadcrumbs and then fried, have<br />
spread far and wide. Portable, fi lling<br />
and delicious, they’re the ultimate<br />
street food. In Palermo, you can’t get<br />
much better than Bar Touring (15<br />
Via Lincoln; bartouring.it); while<br />
in London, try Arancini Brothers’<br />
Factory Café (115 Kentish Town Road;<br />
arancinibrothers.com).<br />
B is for bifanas<br />
Describing a bifana merely as a pork<br />
sandwich does not do this delicious<br />
Portuguese snack justice. Creating<br />
good bifanas takes time. Slices of<br />
meat are simmered in white wine,<br />
dripping, garlic, mustard and spicy<br />
red pepper to create a tender fi lling<br />
for white rolls. They’re usually eaten<br />
at football matches and festivals. Try<br />
one at Cervejeria da Berlenga<br />
in Lisbon (35 Rua Barros Queirós;<br />
tel: +351 21 342 2703), near Rossio.<br />
54 | TRAVELLER<br />
C is for Catherine<br />
Kilgour<br />
A freelance food writer by day,<br />
Catherine Kilgour spends her<br />
weekends in a vintage Land Rover,<br />
wowing gastro geeks with her<br />
hearty wild Scottish fare as one<br />
half of Wild Rover Food. “We want<br />
game, like venison and pigeon, to<br />
become accessible on street level,”<br />
she says. You’ll fi nd her at the<br />
RSPB Scottish Bird Fair on 19-20<br />
May in Edinburgh. To fi nd out her<br />
movements, see wildroverfood.com.<br />
There’s a dish for<br />
every palate and<br />
pocket in<br />
Marrakech’s market<br />
“We want game,<br />
like venison<br />
and pigeon, to<br />
become accessible<br />
on a street level”<br />
D is for Djemaa el Fna<br />
When dusk falls in Marrakech, the<br />
city’s vast market becomes the largest<br />
open-air restaurant in the world. Try<br />
a bowl of harira, a tomato and lentil<br />
soup with beef or chicken, seasoned<br />
with ginger, pepper and cinnamon;<br />
add a sandwich served in khobz, a<br />
small, round, fl at loaf, fi lled with deepfried<br />
slices of liver dribbled with green<br />
chilli sauce; or a tajine of any variety,<br />
cooked with raisins, prunes and<br />
almonds. Yummy. visitmorocco.com<br />
E is for Eat Street<br />
At Eat St’s<br />
lunchtime market<br />
by King’s Cross,<br />
London, you might<br />
have hot dogs,<br />
Piedmont-style off al<br />
sandwiches or pork<br />
rolls with hot sauce<br />
Nobody has done more to promote<br />
British street food than Petra Barran,<br />
the brains behind the Choc Star truck<br />
and founder of Eat St. This collective<br />
of traders runs a mouth-watering<br />
lunchtime market outside London’s<br />
King’s Cross station from Wednesday<br />
to Friday. Highlights include pork rolls<br />
at The Rib Man, Piedmont-style offal<br />
sandwiches at Tongue ‘n Cheek and<br />
world-beating franks at Big Apple Hot<br />
Dogs. King’s Boulevard; eat.st
PHOTOS © ALAMY, GETTY, PAUL SWOLTZ PHOTOGRAPHY , SCOTT WILLIAMS,<br />
F is for falafel<br />
It’s amazing to think that chickpeas<br />
can cause controversy, but in the<br />
Middle East, debates rage over where<br />
to get the best falafel. In Amman, visit<br />
the legendary Hashem (opposite Cliff<br />
Hotel, Alamir Mohamed Street); in Tel<br />
Aviv, Hakosem’s (1 Shlomo HaMelech)<br />
are drenched in coriander sauce; while<br />
in Egypt the dish is called tameya<br />
and made with broad beans – make<br />
for the fast-food Gad outlets in<br />
Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh.<br />
G is for gyro<br />
Sure, it’s a kebab, but Greece’s<br />
quintessential snack is a world away<br />
from the greasy, slightly suspectlooking<br />
wrap found on British high<br />
streets. Marinated pork, beef or<br />
chicken is slow-roasted on a spit<br />
before being cosseted in soft pita<br />
and liberally doused with tzatziki.<br />
You’ll fi nd vendors on street corners<br />
throughout the Hellenic isles, while<br />
Athens’ locals swear by the quality of<br />
the outlets in Monastiraki Square.<br />
H is for hhot<br />
dog<br />
Forget New Nordic cuisine for a<br />
minute – Copenhagen’s love of<br />
hot dogs is unrivalled. The many<br />
wagons across the city include døp,<br />
which serves 100% organic dogs by<br />
the Round Tower. Other must-try<br />
sausages across the network include<br />
the Pražská klobása (Prague sausage),<br />
available from stalls in that city’s<br />
Wenceslas Square, and the currywurst<br />
phenomenon in Berlin, where Curry36<br />
(36 Menringdamm) is hard to beat.<br />
I is for islak burger<br />
According to Turkish folklore, nobody<br />
has ever consumed an islak (wet)<br />
burger when sober. Sure, they’re<br />
greasy, garlicky and radioactively<br />
orange with tomato sauce, but these<br />
strange delights of mysterious origin<br />
are indubitably delicious, regardless of<br />
whether you’ve already visited some of<br />
the Taksim district’s numerous bars.<br />
They’re sold 24 hours a day from a<br />
shouty man at the Kizilkayalar stand<br />
in Istanbul’s Taksim Square.<br />
TRAVELLER | 55
J is for jalebi<br />
In Indian culture, sweets are part<br />
of all celebrations, but jalebis<br />
– pretzel-shaped coils of batter<br />
deep-fried and dipped in syrup – are<br />
the real taste of childhood. Sold hot<br />
from the pan at stalls like Jalebi<br />
Junction (93 Southall Broadway)<br />
in west London, and with the syrup<br />
sticking to the bag they’re served in,<br />
they’ll take you back to watching the<br />
saris swirl at a Delhi wedding, even if<br />
you’ve never been east of Vienna.<br />
K is for Kristin<br />
Frederick<br />
56 | TRAVELLER<br />
Kristen Frederick,<br />
below on right,<br />
brought her upscale<br />
burgers to Paris<br />
Given Parisians’ distaste for all<br />
foods fast, the city’s itinerant burger<br />
queen must be doing something<br />
extraordinarily right. Loyal French<br />
followers brave long lines for her €10<br />
gourmet burger/frites fi x, especially<br />
the juicy BBQ patties with onion<br />
rings and homemade sauce. “It’s<br />
a novelty for French taste buds,”<br />
explains Frederick, an American<br />
ex-pat whose “a-ha” moment<br />
(“upscale food trucks are the<br />
future”) came while working at a<br />
two-star restaurant in her native<br />
LA. Last November she imported<br />
the concept to Paris, where her van<br />
moves around daily. Her website<br />
reveals where. lecamionquifume.com<br />
L is for lángos<br />
Back when families baked their own<br />
bread in Hungary, a little piece of the<br />
dough was snipped from the end to<br />
make a snack. Today, the recipe for<br />
lángos has been embellished: it’s now<br />
a golden disk of fried potato dough<br />
topped with garlic, sour cream or<br />
grated cheese (or all three). For many,<br />
no shopping trip is complete without<br />
a taste and Budapest’s best can be<br />
found for about a euro at Bosnyák tér,<br />
a neighbourhood market.<br />
European street<br />
food has its roots<br />
in cheap, fi lling<br />
fare for labourers<br />
and peasants<br />
M is for meatballs<br />
Sweden’s street-food staple,<br />
köttbullar (meatballs), are enjoying<br />
a renaissance. At Stockholm’s Sibylla<br />
kiosks and Malmö’s Möllevångstorget<br />
area, locals devour beef versions<br />
with gusto, while restaurants like<br />
Tranan (tranan.se) serve them in<br />
the bar. They’ve also gone upmarket<br />
at Prinsen (restaurangprinsen.eu)<br />
and there’s even a posh veal version<br />
at Michelin-starred Matsalen in the<br />
Grand Hotel (grandhotel.se).
PHOTOS © ALAMY, GETTY<br />
N is for nieuwe haring<br />
In the same way that the French await<br />
the arrival of the Beaujolais nouveau<br />
each year, so the Dutch anticipate<br />
the arrival of the nieuwe haring (new<br />
herring) at the end of spring. After<br />
thorough cleaning and preservation in<br />
salt, the fi sh are served raw, garnished<br />
with onions and sweet pickles from<br />
vans all over Amsterdam, like the<br />
revered family-run Stubbe’s Haring,<br />
at the end of the Singel canal near<br />
Amsterdam Centraal station.<br />
O is for offal<br />
European street food has its roots in<br />
cheap, fi lling fare for labourers and<br />
peasants – which is where offal comes<br />
in. Nerbone, in Florence’s Mercato<br />
Centrale, has sold lampredotto, a<br />
stomach sandwich, since 1874; in<br />
Istanbul, try kokoreç, an intestine and<br />
sweetbread kebab, at the Kral Kokorec<br />
stand (54C Büyük Postane Cadisi);<br />
and in Tel Aviv, have the mixed grill<br />
at Sima (24 Harbaa Street): hearts,<br />
livers, spleen and lamb in fl atbread.<br />
P is for panzarotti<br />
Standing in line with well-dressed<br />
businessmen and hungry shoppers<br />
outside Luini (16 Via Radegonda) in<br />
central Milan, you could be forgiven<br />
for thinking that these fried dough<br />
crescents are a local speciality. Not<br />
so – the city has Giuseppina Luini<br />
to thank for bringing the recipe<br />
from her native Puglia back in 1949.<br />
Traditionally stuffed with tomato and<br />
mozzarella, panzarotti also come with<br />
other fi llings, both savoury and sweet.<br />
Q is for qassatat<br />
The aromas that hit you as you<br />
wander down back streets of Maltese<br />
towns are proof the inhabitants love<br />
pastry. Qassatat – crunchy round<br />
shells of short-crust pastry fi lled with<br />
ricotta cheese, peas or spinach – come<br />
top of their list. You’ll fi nd them in<br />
pastizzerijas and cafés across the<br />
country. Sink your teeth into the best<br />
ones at Crystal Palace, just outside the<br />
mdina in Rabat and the Nadur bakery<br />
(St James Street) on Gozo.<br />
TRAVELLER | 57
WORDS TREVOR BAKER, CAROLYN BANFALVI, ROSIE BIRKETT, JO CARUANA, STUART FORSTER, NICK HODGE, SARAH LANE, CORINNE LABALME, MATTHEW LEE, KIMBERLEY LOVATO, CHLOE SCOTT, MARK SMITH, DEREK WORKMAN<br />
R is for rösti<br />
Consisting of just two ingredients<br />
(grated potato and goose fat or<br />
butter), rösti, the Swiss national dish<br />
has to be one of the most simple<br />
street foods there is. Add a fried egg,<br />
sausage or cheese and it becomes a<br />
meal. Hasenburg (20 Schneidergasse)<br />
in Basel is known as rösti heaven,<br />
serving a dozen different varieties.<br />
Also try Czech bramborack, cooked<br />
in lard, and Bavarian kartoffelpuffer,<br />
made with sour cream and eggs.<br />
S is for Sister Gee<br />
Marti Burgess, aka Sister Gee, is a<br />
Bristol institution. A trained lawyer,<br />
she owns the city’s seminal nightclub,<br />
Lakota. But it’s on weekend evenings<br />
that she causes a real stir: she runs<br />
a jerk shack in her club’s car park<br />
(6 Upper York Street), serving spicy<br />
chicken that has food purists trekking<br />
from miles around. The recipe comes<br />
from her grandmother, a descendant<br />
of Jamaica’s runaway slave families,<br />
but that’s not the only reason her<br />
offering is more authentic – and<br />
delicious – than most. “Serving<br />
rice, peas and jerk together is a<br />
travesty,” opines Burgess. “Jerk is a<br />
method – they would use wood, not<br />
coal – and it’s served with cocoa bread<br />
and plantain salad.”<br />
58 | TRAVELLER<br />
Sister Gee’s jerk<br />
chicken is as<br />
authentic – and<br />
delicious – as you’re<br />
likely to fi nd this<br />
side of Kingston<br />
T is for Tubby Isaacs<br />
Paul Simpson’s family has run east<br />
London seafood stall, Tubby Isaacs<br />
(tubbyisaacs.co.uk), for 93 years.<br />
Alongside whelks, cockles and mussels,<br />
the jellied eels – a dish enjoyed in this<br />
part of town since the 18th century –<br />
are rightly the star attraction. They’re<br />
chopped, boiled in water and vinegar,<br />
and left to cool, a process during<br />
which they form their own jelly. You’ll<br />
fi nd the stalls at Petticoat Lane and<br />
Walthamstow markets.<br />
The French have<br />
been peddling<br />
vegetarian street<br />
food in the form<br />
of crêpes forever<br />
U is for USA<br />
Europeans and Asians had street food<br />
long before the USA, but credit where<br />
it’s due – Americans made it cool.<br />
Pioneers like Big Gay Ice Cream in<br />
New York and Kogi BBQ (right) in LA<br />
used trucks to showcase their talents,<br />
and Facebook and Twitter to spread<br />
the word. It’s a winning formula that<br />
has already spread to London, and<br />
other European cities are catching<br />
on – the Vatos Taco (vatos-tacos.com)<br />
truck in Berlin is a great example.
PHOTOS © ALAMY, BIG FAT GAY ICE CREAM, GETTY, ERIC SHIN<br />
V is for vegetarian<br />
Stalls like London’s Whole Food<br />
Heaven (wholefoodheaven.co.uk),<br />
near Old Street, and Berlin’s Sun<br />
Day Burgers at the Mauer Park<br />
Flea Market in Prenzlauer Berg, are<br />
tapping into a new appetite for meatfree<br />
treats. Of course, the French have<br />
long peddled veggie street food in the<br />
form of crêpes, along with buckwheat<br />
galettes in Brittany and Nice’s socca<br />
– chickpea crêpes. Good to know that<br />
street food’s not all offal.<br />
W is for waffl e<br />
This batter-based, crenellated treat is<br />
practically synonymous with Belgian<br />
food. As any connoisseur will tell<br />
you, the Liège version is a Brussels<br />
favourite for good reason. Gooey and<br />
doughy, with a caramelised sugar<br />
coating and chunks of pearl sugar<br />
inside, Liège waffl es are best eaten hot<br />
off the irons from carts set up near<br />
tourist sites, like the Grand Place, and<br />
at open-air markets, such as the one<br />
held on Saturdays at Place Dumon.<br />
X is for xa xiu<br />
Xa xiu, the barbecued pork fi lling of<br />
a banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich),<br />
has become hugely popular on the<br />
continent. It’s been available in<br />
Paris for many years in Belleville<br />
Chinatown, in the city’s 20th<br />
arrondisement. In London, fantastic<br />
xa xiu banh mi can be found at the<br />
Banh Mi 11 stall on Berwick Street,<br />
while the newly opened Babanbè deli<br />
(2 Oranienplatz) has introduced the<br />
spicy sandwich to hungry Berliners.<br />
Y is for Yemenite<br />
Israel’s favourite comfort food comes<br />
from an unlikely source – Yemen,<br />
with snack recipes brought with<br />
the Jews when they left the Arabian<br />
Peninsula. There’s jachnun, a baked,<br />
rolled pastry eaten with tomato and<br />
eggs; and malawach, a fried pancake<br />
eaten with eggs, honey and – if you’re<br />
feeling brave – chilli sauce. To sample<br />
this cuisine in Tel Aviv, head to the<br />
Yemenite neighbourhood of Kerem<br />
HaTeymanim past the Carmel Market.<br />
Z is for zapiekanka<br />
Once dusk has fallen, your best bet for<br />
a bite in Krakow is this humble dish,<br />
the favoured nosh of students, boozers<br />
and assorted late-night cruisers.<br />
It’s basically a long chunk of bread,<br />
chucked under the grill, and fi nished<br />
with cheese, shrooms and a sprinkling<br />
of chives. Meaty extras are popular<br />
too. The legendary, mustachioed Mr<br />
Endzior has punters queuing round<br />
the block for his concoctions at the<br />
roundhouse on Krakow’s Plac Nowy.<br />
TRAVELLER | 59
FEATURES | LISBON
JAMES STEWART ELIZABETH GIBSON<br />
FEATURES | LISBON<br />
THE PORTUGUESE TOWN OF ERICEIRA IS SAID TO HAVE BEACHES AND BREAKS LIKE<br />
NOWHERE ELSE. AS IT REVELS IN THE LIMELIGHT OF BEING NAMED EUROPE’S FIRST<br />
DESIGNATED SURFING RESERVE, WE VISITED FOR A SWELL PERSPECTIVE
FEATURES | LISBON<br />
A FEW YEARS BACK, surf megabrand Billabong<br />
came up with a new advertising slogan. Written<br />
beneath an image of sun-drenched, fl awless waves,<br />
the words, “Only a surfer knows the feeling”, seemed<br />
to capture the thrill of gliding across moving walls of<br />
water. Right now, I’m beginning to wonder whether it<br />
could equally refer to another emotion: fear.<br />
It’s a bright crisp morning and pulses of clean swell<br />
from a long-distant storm are pumping into Coxos bay<br />
near Ericeira, 50 minutes’ drive from Lisbon. Every<br />
few minutes, a larger wave looms in the open Atlantic,<br />
jacks up in the shallows, then detonates on a reef that<br />
62 | TRAVELLER<br />
mingled with tousle-haired surfers at a dedication<br />
ceremony. “This is a magical place,” said Will Henry,<br />
founder of Save The Waves Coalition, the non-profi t<br />
organisation that established the reserve programme<br />
in 2009 to safeguard the world’s best surf spots.<br />
Without doubt, the Ericeira region has the fi nest<br />
surf coast of continental Europe, reckons Luke Budd,<br />
South African shaper (ie, maker) for local surfboard<br />
manufacturer Board Culture. “I’m from Durban – the<br />
Golden Mile, home break of some surfi ng legends,” he<br />
says, “but within 10 to 15 minutes’ drive from here are<br />
four or fi ve world-class surf locations. That’s unique<br />
“Within 10 to 15 minutes’ drive from here<br />
are four or fi ve world-class surf spots”<br />
edges the bay, unfurling almost mechanically in a roar<br />
of galloping foam. A chorus of hoots erupt from local<br />
surfers whenever someone claws over the lip of one of<br />
these monsters and rips across the face.<br />
In surf slang, Coxos is ‘going off’. The waves are<br />
easily double-overhead (that’s surfer talk for 2m),<br />
often larger. Of the 20 or so riders strung along the<br />
foreshore, I am the furthest from the take-off zone<br />
– the bottom of the pile in surfi ng hierarchy – and<br />
that suits me fi ne. Every surfer has had their nerves<br />
shredded by the power of the ocean at some point.<br />
Well, mine are in tatters now. It shouldn’t really come<br />
as a surprise: Coxos is the most celebrated break of the<br />
most celebrated surf spot in Europe.<br />
Back on 14 October last year, over 40 surfers<br />
paddled out into the sea at Ribeira d’Ilhas beach<br />
to mark Ericeira’s accreditation as Europe’s fi rst<br />
World Surf Reserve – one of only four such reserves<br />
worldwide. Later, military brass and politicians<br />
and it makes this a playground for advanced surfers,<br />
but also good for learners, because the water is quite<br />
warm, even in winter.”<br />
This coast is battered by everything the Atlantic<br />
can hurl, from knee-high ripples to extraordinarily<br />
big waves, such as the 30m wall of water ridden by<br />
Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara just north of<br />
Ericeira last November. Couple that with suitable<br />
geology – fl at reefs jut from the cliffs that sawtooth<br />
this coast, creating the perfect conditions for big waves<br />
– and you have surf nirvana. Within the World Surf<br />
Reserve area – a 4km stretch from Empa Bay on the<br />
outskirts of Ericeira to São Lourenço beach – are at<br />
least nine reef breaks, with something, it must be said,<br />
for every level of surfer.<br />
It’s eight years since my last visit and in that time<br />
the town has acquired a sheen of surfi ng cool. Its<br />
core remains a knot of historic lanes above the<br />
harbour, but beyond the fi shermen’s houses you’ll
FEATURES | LISBON<br />
Clockwise from<br />
top left, a father<br />
and son prepare<br />
to surf; everyone<br />
can fi nd their<br />
ideal wave at<br />
Ericeira;<br />
surf-school<br />
owner Ulisses<br />
Reis (on left) with<br />
friend; taking a<br />
break on the<br />
beach<br />
TRAVELLER | 63
FEATURES | LISBON<br />
now fi nd the largest Quiksilver store in Europe, as<br />
well as fi ve other surf shops and over 30 surf schools.<br />
The Ecosound eco-resort nearby, with its charming<br />
wooden lodges, and the Vila Galé 4-star hotel are a<br />
sure sign the area has embraced the 21st century. In<br />
fact, it’s now possible to book the whole caboodle –<br />
accommodation, surf lessons, guide – all together<br />
through SurfHolidays (surfholidays.com).<br />
Everyone in Ericeira recognises the value of<br />
surfi ng now, even the local council, says Ulisses<br />
Reis, 48-year-old owner of Blue Ocean Surf School<br />
(ericeirablueocean.blogspot.co.uk). Ulisses is my guide<br />
to the waves he has surfed since the late 1970s. Heady<br />
days, when Portuguese surfi ng was in its infancy and<br />
surfi ng was a byword for counter-culture. “It was<br />
beautiful here 35 years ago, man,” he says wistfully.<br />
“We would camp behind the beach for three months<br />
over summer – no responsibilities, no job, just a<br />
smoke, some drinks.... Australians and Americans<br />
would come up from Morocco in VW Kombis and<br />
sell us boards. There would be 10 guys out max,<br />
sometimes none. Just beautiful, man.”<br />
I’m quietly relieved that we decide against riding<br />
the fi rst wave we visit, Pedra Branca at Praia da<br />
Empa. Not only is it large and fast, but the way the<br />
swell slops onto the nearby rocks suggests you’d pay<br />
for a mistimed take-off with a brutal pummelling. So<br />
we cross a headland towards Ribeira d’Ilhas. White<br />
lines are peeling across the bay as we round the cliff.<br />
This is the approachable face of the surf reserve, yet it<br />
still packs a punch. The swell is heavier than it looks<br />
and rip currents pull across the bay. Finally a peak<br />
approaches: shoulder high, a tiddler by local standards.<br />
I turn, the board skims as the wave rears, then I’m<br />
riding across a clean face that unfurls lazily right.<br />
Elation does not begin to cover it.<br />
64 | TRAVELLER<br />
Of course, fame has its downsides. Up to 100 surfers<br />
can crowd Ribeira when small summer waves allow<br />
any wannabe in a wetsuit to have a go. A madhouse in<br />
August, says one local surfer. I expect Ulisses to add to<br />
the grumbles that Ericeira’s new cachet will only make<br />
things worse. Instead, he welcomes the prestige – and<br />
the fact it gives locals a degree of power in protecting<br />
the area. If the World Surf Reserve was only good for<br />
surfers, there would be little political interest. Now<br />
that visiting boarders mean holiday bucks for the local<br />
economy too, the surf community is charged with<br />
policing the area – making sure nothing is done to<br />
jeopardise the reserve status, which can be withdrawn<br />
at any time.<br />
If Ribeira has the fame, Coxos has the kudos. Over<br />
the next headland, at the end of a dirt track, it isn’t<br />
much to look at – not that anyone comes for looks.<br />
“Coxos is sagrada, man. You know, sacred, like God,”<br />
Ulisses says. “No one messes with Coxos. I’ve taken<br />
people out here – good, advanced surfers – and they<br />
got chewed by this wave.” Coxos holds triple, even<br />
quadruple-overhead waves. Crazy Left, Coxos’s mirror<br />
on the opposite side of the bay, is equally unforgiving.<br />
The next morning in Ericeira, clean lines are<br />
wrapping around the harbour wall. Not big, a local<br />
reassures, so I grab my board and return to pay<br />
homage to Coxos. ‘Big’, it turns out, is subjective, which<br />
is how I come to be at the end of a line-up, wishing<br />
discretion had been the better part of valour. A surf<br />
guidebook describes the wave here as “unforgiving,<br />
powerful and humbling on big days – always fun”.<br />
Only a surfer knows that feeling.<br />
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FEATURES | LISBON<br />
LISBON BASICS<br />
THE CITY BY NUMBERS<br />
POPULATION<br />
547,631<br />
(IN GREATER LISBON<br />
ALMOST 3 MILLION)<br />
66 | TRAVELLER<br />
LAND AREA<br />
84.8km 2<br />
NUMBER OF RESIDENT<br />
FOREIGNERS<br />
21,435<br />
NUMBER OF HILLS<br />
7<br />
SUNNY DAYS PER YEAR<br />
252<br />
NUMBER OF CRUISE SHIP<br />
PASSENGERS IN 2011<br />
502,644<br />
HIGHEST POINT<br />
227m<br />
711<br />
The one-time Roman<br />
metropolis of Felicitas<br />
Julia is seized by<br />
Muslim forces made up<br />
of Arabs and Berbers.<br />
It stays under their rule<br />
for over 400 years.<br />
THE LISBON TIMELINE<br />
1147<br />
After a three-month<br />
siege led by Afonso<br />
Henriques, the fi rst<br />
king of Portugal, the<br />
city of some 154,000<br />
citizens is reconquered<br />
by Christian forces.<br />
HAVE A WORD (OR TWO)<br />
Although it is, of course, a Latin-based language, Portuguese is defi nitely not a<br />
variety of Spanish. It <strong>may</strong> not be an easy language to master, grammatically or<br />
phonetically, but more than 240-million people speak it as a fi rst language.<br />
THANK YOU<br />
OBRIGADO (FOR MEN); OBRIGADA (FOR WOMEN)<br />
HOW MUCH DOES THIS COST?<br />
QUANTO CUSTA ISTO? (KWANTO KOOSHTA ISHTO?)<br />
YES<br />
SIM (SING)<br />
MAYBE<br />
TALVEZ (TALVAIJ)<br />
GOOD MORNING<br />
BOM DIA (BONG DEEYA)<br />
GOOD AFTERNOON<br />
BOA TARDE (BOA TARD)<br />
GOOD NIGHT<br />
BOA NOITE (BOA NOYT)<br />
SEE YOU LATER<br />
ATÉ LOGO (TAY LOG)<br />
1497<br />
Vasco da Gama<br />
departs from what<br />
is now Belém on a<br />
momentous voyage<br />
that leads to his<br />
discovery of the sea<br />
route to India.<br />
NO<br />
NÃO (NAONG)<br />
GOODBYE<br />
ADEUS (ADEYUSH)<br />
1755<br />
At 10am on<br />
1 November, the city<br />
is destroyed by a huge<br />
earthquake, followed<br />
by fi res and a tsunami,<br />
which kill at least<br />
40,000 people.<br />
1908<br />
On 1 February, King<br />
Carlos I and his heir are<br />
murdered in Praça do<br />
Comércio. This regicide<br />
is the catalyst for the<br />
nation becoming a<br />
republic two years later.
WORDS JONATHAN WEIGHTMAN | PHOTO © ALAMY | MAP ILLUSTRATION © JASON PICKERSGILL/ACUTEGRAPHICS.CO.UK<br />
GETTING<br />
AROUND<br />
Lisbon <strong>may</strong> be fairly compact, but it<br />
is hilly. To avoid too much climbing,<br />
use the excellent network of metros,<br />
buses and trams. A one-day travel<br />
card costs €4.50 from any station.<br />
BELÉM<br />
An area that escaped the 1755<br />
earthquake. Among its many jewels<br />
is the gothic Jerónimos Monastery<br />
(mosteirojeronimos.pt) and the Belém<br />
Cultural Centre (ccb.pt), with its<br />
famed Berardo modern art collection.<br />
BAIRRO ALTO<br />
A 17th-century grid of narrow streets<br />
that’s now one of the most vibrant<br />
centres for both gay and straight<br />
N<br />
BELÉM<br />
1926<br />
A military coup d’état in<br />
Lisbon overthrows the<br />
wobbling Portuguese<br />
First Republic, starting<br />
the longest dictatorial<br />
regime in Europe. It<br />
lasts for 48 years.<br />
1974<br />
On 25 April 1974, a<br />
military-led coup gives<br />
the country’s colonies<br />
independence and<br />
Portugal becomes<br />
a parliamentary<br />
democracy.<br />
nightlife in the city. It has loads of bars,<br />
restaurants, boutiques and a seriously<br />
lively street scene.<br />
ALFAMA<br />
Dominated by St George’s Castle,<br />
and with a medieval street plan, this<br />
working-class neighbourhood still has<br />
a strong whiff of the old Lisbon.<br />
THE BAIXA<br />
Located between the stunning<br />
waterfront square of Praça do Comércio<br />
and the Rossio, Lisbon’s downtown<br />
area was built in the late 18th century<br />
and is the city’s main shopping district.<br />
PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES<br />
Once an industrial wasteland, this<br />
riverfront area has been transformed: it<br />
now boasts the Oceanarium (oceanario.<br />
pt) and a casino (casinolisboa.pt), plus<br />
many restaurants and shops.<br />
LISBON<br />
ALFAMA<br />
BAIRRO ALTO<br />
THE BAIXA<br />
PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES<br />
1998<br />
Lisbon stages Expo<br />
’98, the last World’s<br />
Fair of the millennium,<br />
leading to the building<br />
of an entirely new<br />
neighbourhood called<br />
Parque das Nações.<br />
1km<br />
2004<br />
The city co-hosts the<br />
European Football<br />
Championships, which<br />
involves building two<br />
new stadiums. Portugal<br />
reaches the fi nals, but<br />
loses to Greece.<br />
FEATURES | LISBON<br />
MUSICAL HERITAGE<br />
LISBON HAS ITS very own version of<br />
the blues. Called fado, which means<br />
fate, these often-tragic musical<br />
laments are about love, loss and<br />
longing. Its exact roots are unknown,<br />
but fado is believed to have existed in<br />
its present form since the early 19th<br />
century. Traditionally performed by<br />
a singer and two musicians, one on a<br />
10-string Portuguese guitar, the other<br />
on a six-string Spanish guitar, fado<br />
achieved international fame in the<br />
1950s and 60s with the great Amália<br />
Rodrigues. Despite falling out of favour<br />
after the 1974 revolution, it has made<br />
a triumphant comeback: the 2007<br />
fi lm Fados, directed by Carlos Saura,<br />
celebrated the music, while last year it<br />
was even added to the UNESCO World<br />
Heritage List. There are many places<br />
to hear the music around Lisbon, from<br />
impromptu amateur performances in<br />
neighbourhood bars, including Tasca<br />
do Jaime (91 Rua da Graça; tel: +351<br />
21 888 1560), to swishy professional<br />
joints, such as Senhor Vinho (18 Rua<br />
do Meio à Lapa; tel: +351 21 397 2681).<br />
2007<br />
The Treaty of Lisbon,<br />
which lays down new<br />
guidelines for the<br />
governance of the<br />
European Union, is<br />
signed in Belém on<br />
13 December.<br />
TRAVELLER | 67
FEATURES | NANTES<br />
A Cadre Noir riding master<br />
and his horse performing<br />
the extraordinary capriole,<br />
which involves having all<br />
four legs off the ground<br />
and then kicking out with<br />
the back legs<br />
68 | TRAVELLER
High<br />
and<br />
Mighty<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO AWE-INSPIRING DISPLAYS<br />
OF EQUESTRIAN SKILL, FEW CAN MATCH THE<br />
CADRE NOIR. WE WENT TO ITS FRENCH BASE<br />
FOR A RARE TREAT: HAVING A GO OURSELVES<br />
MARIE CLELAND KNOWLES<br />
FEATURES | NANTES<br />
THERE’S THE TWITCHING OF muscles, the creak<br />
of leather and the tang of sweat as the athlete poises,<br />
ready for the jump. Rocking back and forth, he waits<br />
for the signal, and then his legs shoot out behind him<br />
as he lifts himself several feet in the air, landing on<br />
the springy ground of rubber and sand moments later<br />
with effortless grace. He lets out a satisfi ed snort,<br />
followed by a short whinny as his trainer pats him on<br />
the head.<br />
As you’ve probably guessed, this is no mere human<br />
entertainer. Laozi d’Orion is one of the horse world’s<br />
top performers and it’s my rare privilege to sit on his<br />
back while he takes a break from his gravity-defying<br />
repertoire of leaps and kicks. The tension is palpable as<br />
this mass of raw power and highly tuned senses waits<br />
for the next command from his trainer, and I can sense<br />
he has me pinned as an amateur. To him, no doubt,<br />
I give off the unmistakable whiff of fear.<br />
The anxiety is not so much what he could do to me,<br />
but what I might do to him. One wrong pull of the<br />
reins and I feel like a learner driver crunching the<br />
gears of a Ferrari. After all, it’s taken Laozi d’Orion 10<br />
years of training to get where he is, not to mention an<br />
investment of hundreds of thousands of euros.<br />
I’m here as a guest of the Cadre Noir, an elite<br />
TRAVELLER | 69
PHOTOS © CORBIS, GETTY<br />
FEATURES | NANTES<br />
group of 37 of France’s fi nest riding masters. They<br />
train and mentor other top riders to become teachers<br />
throughout France, and some compete in dressage at<br />
Olympic level. What they’re best known for, however,<br />
are their spectacular equestrian feats. Performing<br />
around the world, their shows are packed with tricks<br />
that are literally leaps and bounds above what most<br />
horses and riders can do.<br />
Anyone can book a tour of the Saumur centre, 150km<br />
west from Nantes, and see one of the regular shows,<br />
but what makes my experience unique is the chance<br />
to actually ride one of these graceful creatures. For<br />
a horse lover, this is a thrilling experience and I love<br />
every minute of it – even though we never exceed a trot.<br />
As I dismount and hand the reins back to Laozi<br />
d’Orion’s rider, I soak up the atmosphere of the<br />
school. Behind the stiff, black uniforms and frowns of<br />
concentration, the riding masters embody decades of<br />
accumulated discipline and expertise. They’re a living<br />
heritage that started as a means to protect a nation<br />
and became a symbol of its sporting prowess.<br />
During the Napoleonic Wars, France’s main defence,<br />
its cavalry, was decimated. To protect the country’s<br />
future, the military had to pick itself up and get<br />
back in the saddle, so it turned to France’s top riding<br />
schools – Versailles, St Germain and the Tuileries – for<br />
help. Horses and riders who had previously striven<br />
to impress the French monarchs with their equine<br />
showmanship were hand-picked for a new life, based<br />
in Saumur in the Loire Valley.<br />
The focus of these soldiers’ training would be the<br />
haute école (high school), honing their horses’ natural<br />
kicking and jumping abilities into movements that<br />
could help the cavalry outwit the enemy in battle. This<br />
classical training includes the courbette, rearing up on<br />
the hind legs; the croupade, in which the horse jumps<br />
straight up with all four legs off the ground; and the<br />
hugely impressive capriole, jumping off the ground<br />
and kicking out with the back legs.<br />
The school opened in 1828 and the Cadre Noir was<br />
born. As a symbol of the riding masters’ responsibilities,<br />
they were kitted out in black (noir), rather than the blue<br />
of their pupils. For more than a century, this elite corps<br />
was the pride of the French military. Then, after World<br />
War II, the cavalry was fazed out, but it wasn’t over for<br />
the Cadre Noir. The elite troop found a new arena when,<br />
in 1972, it joined up with France’s National Horse<br />
Riding School to tap into the growing popularity of<br />
recreational and sports riding.<br />
The Saumur centre is not the only riding centre in<br />
Europe that still practises and teaches the haute école<br />
– in fact, there are four. The Spanish Riding School<br />
in Vienna – the name comes from the Spanish origin<br />
of the Lipizzaner horse it breeds and trains – is also<br />
from a military background, but it’s better known<br />
70 | TRAVELLER<br />
The journey to become a<br />
Cadre Noir riding master<br />
is an arduous one
Clockwise from left,<br />
As well as dressage,<br />
the Cadre Noir trains<br />
its horses to jump;<br />
the dancing horses<br />
grace the cover of<br />
Paris’s illustrated<br />
daily paper in 1923;<br />
the Cadre Noir on<br />
parade in Versailles,<br />
1983; our lucky writer<br />
Marie Cleland<br />
Knowles on Laozi<br />
d’Orion at the Cadre<br />
Noire centre in<br />
Saumur, France<br />
FEATURES | NANTES<br />
for its performances. At the Portuguese School of<br />
Equestrian Art – established by King João V in 1748<br />
to breed Lusitano horses for use in the bullfi ghting<br />
ring – the same haute école skills are employed, but<br />
for a different purpose. The newest school, the Royal<br />
Andalusian School of Equestrian Arts, founded in<br />
Jerez de la Frontera in 1973, also prepares riders for<br />
international sporting competitions. Its mission,<br />
however, is to preserve the Andalusian horse, which,<br />
thanks to its fl owing mane and elegant gait is often<br />
used in fi lms. The Cadre Noir uses Selle Français and<br />
Anglo-Arab breeds for their strength and stamina.<br />
Of all the schools, Saumur’s has the most extensive<br />
grounds and I’m lucky enough to receive an extensive<br />
tour on my visit. Set in beautiful countryside, with the<br />
Loire river fl owing nearby, the centre has 300 hectares<br />
of stables, arenas and tracks – and with 400 animals<br />
in training at any one time, there is a constant bustle<br />
of riders and horses.<br />
The latter start their classical training at the age of<br />
four. By the time the horse is six, its riding master will<br />
have decided its speciality, and only the strongest will<br />
perform the haute école “airs” (high jumps).<br />
I’m exhausted just watching, but to actually become<br />
a Cadre Noir riding master is a seriously arduous<br />
task. Candidates have to be under 30 to take the<br />
entrance examination, but their résumé will already<br />
read something like this: three years at university,<br />
four years training as a riding teacher under the Cadre<br />
Noir, experience working as a riding teacher and<br />
sporting acclaim at an international level. Only then<br />
can they sit the rigorous test, during which they will<br />
also be judged on their motivation and ability to work<br />
as part of a team. Once qualifi ed, each riding master<br />
will then spend up to eight hours a day in the saddle.<br />
Aside from the fatigue of long hours spent training,<br />
the riders also face the constant threat of injury. The<br />
fast, fl icking movements of the horse, and the heights<br />
to which they leap demands precision and many years<br />
of experience on the part of the rider.<br />
But that’s why it makes for such a spectacular show –<br />
and I’m treated to one such demonstration later that<br />
day. Even with the adrenalin still pulsing through me<br />
from my close encounter with Laozi, it’s a spellbinding<br />
sight to watch horse and rider stride into the arena in<br />
perfect time to classical music. And guess what? My<br />
anxiety disappears completely. I’m caught up in the<br />
magic of the dance.<br />
Tours of the Cadre Noir complex are held Monday to<br />
Saturday, with a one-hour performance on selected<br />
Thursday and Saturday mornings. cadrenoir.fr<br />
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TRAVELLER | 71
Kourian’s Greco-Roman<br />
theatre was built in the<br />
2nd century, but opera<br />
and Shakespeare plays<br />
are still produced here<br />
today because of the<br />
excellent acoustics<br />
72 | TRAVELLER
HEAD TO CYPRUS FOR SAND, SEA AND A DOSE OF SERIOUS<br />
HISTORY IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SUN<br />
FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />
HE WEARS Hat, D.S. Dundee, £79; cardigan, The Kooples, £175; shorts, Zara, £25.99; shoes, Canali, £330; glasses, Cutler & Gross, £299<br />
SHE WEARS Glasses, Cutler & Gross, £299; scarf, Paul Smith, £105; blouse, The Kooples, £125; jeans, Monsoon, £45;<br />
sandals, Boss Black, £189; bag, Tommy Hilfi ger £200<br />
OLIVER PILCHER CAROLE FRENCH<br />
FASHION BY NINO BAUTI<br />
TRAVELLER | 73
FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />
This page and opposite<br />
Dating from the<br />
Hellenistic and Roman<br />
periods, the Tombs of the<br />
King site has more than<br />
100 tombs, all handcarved<br />
from the rock<br />
WHILE A BREAK to Cyprus promises all the treats of<br />
your usual top-notch Mediterranean destination – you<br />
can relax around a pool, chill in a harbourside taverna<br />
or revitalise at a luxurious spa – it also provides the<br />
chance for something more unique: visitors can play at<br />
being a real-life Indiana Jones.<br />
The Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Ottomans and<br />
even the British have all had periods of rule here over<br />
the past 10,000 years, and that legacy is still in evidence<br />
at world-famous archaeological sites around the island.<br />
Paphos is a UNESCO site in its entirety, famed for its<br />
Tombs of the Kings, mosaics that dominate the harbour<br />
74 | TRAVELLER<br />
area, and the tiny Agia Kyriaki church, where St Paul is<br />
said to have been lashed for preaching Christianity.<br />
The coastline east towards Limassol and Larnaca<br />
is awash with historical treasures too: Palaipafos at<br />
Kouklia is meant to be where the ancient goddess<br />
Aphrodite held court, while Petra tou Romiou is,<br />
famously, her birthplace. It doesn’t stop there: you<br />
can visit the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates, Kourion’s<br />
mighty clifftop theatre and the enchanting Kolossi<br />
Castle and plenty more besides. It all adds up to one<br />
thing: a seaside holiday where you might actually<br />
learn something.
HE WEARS Above Hat, D.S. Dundee, £79; glasses, Cutler & Gross, £299; shirt, H&M, £24.99; bag, Paul Smith, £245; trousers, Zara, £29.99; shoes, D.S. Dundee, £175;<br />
tie, The Kooples, £75; notebook, Mulberry, price on request. Previous page Trilby hat, Paul Smith, £79; bag, D.S. Dundee, £199; vest, CK underwear, £30; shirt, Tommy<br />
Hilfi ger, £85; belt, Paul & Joe, from £90; trousers, Tommy Hilfi ger, £115; boots, Stylist own; gardening gloves, Amazon, £4.95<br />
SHE WEARS Hat, Monsoon, £18; shirt, G-Star RAW, £65; scarf, Paul Smith, £105; jeans, Monsoon, £45; belt, Tommy Hilfi ger, £45;<br />
gloves, G-Star RAW, £69; wedges, L.K Bennett, £175<br />
FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />
TRAVELLER | 75
FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />
76 | TRAVELLER
Left Sheltering from the<br />
sun behind the Kourion’s<br />
Greco-Roman theatre;<br />
right The Tombs of the<br />
Kings are best explored in<br />
the morning when the<br />
temperature is cooler<br />
KOURION<br />
The highlight of a visit to the<br />
Kourion archaeological site is,<br />
without doubt, its Greco-Roman<br />
theatre. Built in the 2nd century<br />
BC by the Greeks, it regularly<br />
played host to 3,500 or more<br />
spectators. The acoustics created<br />
by the steepness of the semicircular<br />
tiered seating means that<br />
even those at the back can hear<br />
the performers’ words booming<br />
back, which is surely why opera<br />
and Shakespearean plays are<br />
still performed here today. Once<br />
a commercial, cultural and<br />
religious hub, the ancient citykingdom<br />
of Kourion can trace<br />
its history back more than 5,000<br />
years. You can see the remains<br />
of the agora (the central meeting<br />
place) and many homes and<br />
churches, including a triple-aisled<br />
cathedral and a remarkably wellpreserved<br />
building with arches<br />
and chapels that would have<br />
been the bishop’s palace. Nearby,<br />
the remains of a wealthy noble’s<br />
home, the House of Eustolios,<br />
contains some of the fi nest<br />
mosaics on the island.<br />
The best way to reach the site<br />
(also spelled Curium) is to head<br />
out of Paphos by car towards<br />
Limassol for about 40 minutes<br />
and then follow the signposts.<br />
FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />
HE WEARS Above Panama hat, Paul Smith, £130; glasses, Ray Ban, £135; neck-tie, Wrangler, £50; bag, D.S. Dundee,<br />
£199; chinos, Topman, £34; vest, Topman, £7; gardening gloves, Amazon, £4.95; boots, stylists own; Previous page<br />
Hat, stylist’s own; sunglasses, Ray Ban, £135; top, Tommy Hilfi ger, £60; shorts, Gap, £32.95; boots, stylist’s own<br />
SHE WEARS Headscarf, The Kooples, £70; sunglasses, Cutler & Gross, £299; shirt, Paul Smith, £110; shorts,<br />
Tommy Hilfi ger, £100; belt, Tommy Hilfi ger, £45; gloves, G-Star RAW, £69; sandals, Toast, £95; backpack,<br />
Belen Echandia, £425; bangle, Pebble London, £45<br />
TRAVELLER | 77
FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />
78 | TRAVELLER<br />
HE WEARS Opposite page Panama hat, Paul Smith, £130; glasses, Ray Ban, £135; neck-tie, Wrangler,<br />
£50; bag, D.S. Dundee, £199; chinos, Topman, £34; vest, Topman, £7; gardening gloves, Amazon,<br />
£4.95; boots, stylist’s own<br />
SHE WEARS Shirt, Zara, £39.99; military-style jacket, Tommy Hilfi ger, £150; belt, Paul & Joe, £120;<br />
trousers, Zara, £35.99, gloves, G-Star RAW, £69<br />
Right Panoramic view of<br />
the distinctive Corinthianstyle<br />
columns found at<br />
the Temple of Apollo<br />
Hylates (also above);<br />
opposite page The Tombs<br />
of the Kings is a maze of<br />
courtyards and ancient<br />
stairwells<br />
TEMPLE OF APOLLO<br />
The Temple of Apollo Hylates<br />
(or Ylatis, as it’s also known) can<br />
be found a fi ve-minute drive<br />
from Kourion on the south coast.<br />
It was once one of the most<br />
magnifi cent religious shrines in<br />
Cyprus, a place of worship and<br />
refuge. Even today, as you stroll<br />
through the ruins, there is a sense<br />
of calm here. Worshippers came<br />
to honour Apollo, god of the sun,<br />
as far back as the 8th century BC<br />
and brought with them offerings,<br />
such as terracotta fi gurines.<br />
These would have been placed in<br />
a votive pit, the remains of which<br />
can still be seen in the gardens of<br />
the temple complex today.<br />
The present temple is Roman<br />
and stands on the site of much<br />
earlier structures. You can see the<br />
remains at the end of an ancient<br />
cobbled street that passed, south<br />
to north, through the sanctuary<br />
complex. The original temple<br />
would have been a mighty<br />
structure. Today, you can still<br />
fi nd there the tall unfl uted<br />
Corinthian-style columns topped<br />
with elaborate architraves that<br />
would have surrounded an inner<br />
cella (small chamber) housing the<br />
cult fi gure of Apollo. They give<br />
a great idea of how it would have<br />
looked in early Roman times.
FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />
TRAVELLER | 79
FEATURES | CYPRUS<br />
TOMBS OF THE KINGS<br />
Dating from the Hellenistic<br />
and Roman periods of around<br />
325BC to 330AD, the Tombs<br />
of the Kings site was a triumph<br />
of architectural design in its<br />
heyday. The 100 or so tombs<br />
and chambers have been hewn<br />
from solid rock by hand and<br />
are typical of the period’s style.<br />
Most are well-preserved, with<br />
fashionable features like Doric<br />
columns, script-like carvings<br />
and courtyards. Look carefully<br />
and you’ll see wall frescos that,<br />
although a tad faded now, once<br />
depicted scenes of everyday life in<br />
brilliant shades of blue and red.<br />
The necropolis was dubbed<br />
the Tombs of the Kings in<br />
recognition of its rich design.<br />
In fact, Paphos nobles and high<br />
ranking offi cials were buried<br />
here, rather than kings. The site<br />
can be found just off the seafront<br />
heading from Paphos harbour<br />
towards Coral Bay and is a great<br />
place to explore, especially in the<br />
morning when the temperature<br />
is cooler. The open-top<br />
CitySightseeing (city-sightseeing.<br />
com) bus leaves the harbour and<br />
stops here several times a day.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHER Oliver Pilcher<br />
FASHION DIRECTOR Nino Bauti<br />
PICTURE ASSISTANT Thomas Steventon<br />
HAIR & MAKE-UP Abigail McGrath<br />
MODELS David Frampton, Joel Frampton<br />
Ramona Chmura (nextmodels.com)<br />
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80 | TRAVELLER<br />
HE WEARS Panama hat, Paul Smith, £130; vest, CK underwear, £30; shirt, D.S. Dundee, £110; belt, Paul & Joe,<br />
£120; trousers, Zara, £39.99<br />
Above The Doric columns<br />
of the Tombs of the Kings<br />
are typical of the period it<br />
was built, c325BC-330AD;<br />
Right a sunset view of<br />
Petra tou Romiou, the<br />
beach said to be<br />
Aphrodite’s birthplace
BUSINESS | MAJORCA<br />
The far-reaching<br />
view from luxury<br />
hotel Cap Rocat<br />
82 | TRAVELLER
A<br />
DIFFER RENT<br />
VIE EW<br />
THERE IS ONLY ONE way to get a really good view<br />
of Cap Rocat. And that’s by hovering over it in a<br />
helicopter, preferably on the way to landing at this<br />
hotel’s heliport. From there, it is but a short ride in a<br />
chauffeured golf cart to the private beach or back to<br />
one of the pleasingly secluded suites.<br />
Built into the cliffs of Cap Enderrocat and<br />
overlooking the Bay of Palma, this fortress-turnedluxury-hotel<br />
has, since its opening in 2010, become a<br />
fi rm favourite with the type of traveller who favours<br />
discreet luxury above all things. Virtually invisible from<br />
sea level – a useful quality, presumably, when it was a<br />
military outpost – the place is like a fantasy dwelling,<br />
complete with drawbridge: part Spanish fi nca, part<br />
Moroccan riad.<br />
For those who associate Majorca with the package<br />
tourism boom that brought in bucket-and-spade-loads<br />
of holidaymakers in the 1970s, the fact that a place such<br />
as Cap Rocat exists here at all <strong>may</strong> come as a surprise.<br />
It shouldn’t. This Balearic isle was once the jet set’s<br />
favourite playground: in the 1950s, Hollywood starlets<br />
such as Ava Gardner and Elizabeth Taylor could be<br />
found frolicking on the pearly-white sands of the<br />
island’s northern tip. And now it’s winning back its<br />
ritzy reputation.<br />
“The island has passed from 1950s glamour to<br />
hooligan capital to ‘there’s no space for my private jet’,”<br />
says Pablo Carrington, managing director of MHM<br />
Management, which operates Cap Rocat. Of course,<br />
he’s talking with tongue fi rmly planted in cheek, but<br />
there is a broader point to be made. Cap Rocat is an<br />
SIMON KURS<br />
BUSINESS | MAJORCA<br />
LUXE HOTELS, TOP RESTAURANTS AND SOME SAVVY BUSINESS TYPES ARE<br />
HELPING MAJORCA RECLAIM ITS GLAMOROUS PAST. ABOUT TIME TOO<br />
extreme example of a whirlwind of change that is<br />
taking place here.<br />
Across the island, luxury hotels are springing up<br />
with nearly the same rapidity that high-rise blocks did<br />
in years past. There are now more than 200 fi ve- and<br />
four-star dwellings on Majorca, including 30 deluxe<br />
rural properties. And when the Jumeirah Port Sóller<br />
Hotel & Spa opened earlier this year, it signifi ed another<br />
milestone: the fi rst foray onto the island by one of the<br />
world’s most high-end chains, and a sure sign that<br />
international businesses are taking Majorca seriously.<br />
The town of Port de Sóller is further testament to<br />
this. Recently treated to an expensive refresh, this spot<br />
on the island’s overlooked north-west has had its beach<br />
widened and promenade manicured. Even Magaluf,<br />
with its concrete hotels and neon-lit bars – once<br />
synonymous with the more raucous side of tourism here<br />
– is being made over, as the Sol Melia group launches a<br />
big-money hotel redevelopment there this summer.<br />
Carrington puts the island’s renaissance down to a<br />
number of factors: “It’s two hours from every important<br />
capital in Europe, which is tremendous. Then there’s<br />
the weather, and the fact that it’s more than sea and<br />
sand – it has history and interesting cultural places.”<br />
If more evidence were needed that this is an island<br />
on the up, then a visit to Palma provides it. With a<br />
busy calendar of cultural events, many art galleries,<br />
cafés and growing parade of designer boutiques (Louis<br />
Vuitton arrived last year, Hermès is said to be coming<br />
next), it’s no surprise that it’s been dubbed the new<br />
Barcelona. Visiting as the sunshine beats down<br />
TRAVELLER | 83
BUSINESS | MAJORCA<br />
streets, there’s an unmistakable buzz – chic locals duck<br />
into smart shop fronts, while the district of La Lonja<br />
thrums with busy restaurants and tapas bars. Indeed,<br />
food is a big part of this story: seven restaurants boast<br />
Michelin stars – quite a feat for such a small place –<br />
and, in Marc Fosh, Majorca even has its own culinary<br />
poster boy. Owner of three restaurants in Palma, a<br />
cookery school and a consultancy, Fosh is the go-to<br />
name when a high-profi le event on the island needs<br />
catering, such as the Luis Vuitton opening.<br />
“There has been enormous change,” he says. “The<br />
wine industry has fl ourished, some of the world’s best<br />
olive oils are being produced here, and there’s a growing<br />
slow-food movement promoting local fruit and<br />
vegetable varieties that had almost disappeared.”<br />
Fosh opened his fl agship eatery, Simply Fosh, in<br />
2009 and the response, he says, has been terrifi c.<br />
Smart, modern and making full use of Majorca’s nowexcellent<br />
local produce, his food has, unsurprisingly,<br />
been well received. It’s not fussy, but it’s fl awlessly<br />
executed. “We decided not to over-complicate and to<br />
focus on good food at good prices,” he says. Misa, the<br />
chef’s newly-opened brasserie, is equally good value,<br />
and its vibrant take on Mediterranean classics has<br />
proved an instant hit with Palma’s new dining class.<br />
Fosh isn’t from Majorca – or Spain, for that matter.<br />
He comes from Kent, in England, but moved to San<br />
Sebastián on the Spanish mainland in 1991 and was so<br />
taken with Spain’s foodie culture that he stayed.<br />
“I knew when I arrived that something special was<br />
starting to happen in Spain. It was refreshing, because<br />
there was a certain simplicity to the food, with natural<br />
fl avours, very few ingredients on a plate and lightness.”<br />
Even then, he could see the impact Spanish cooking<br />
– such as that of a then-unknown chef by the name<br />
of Ferran Adrià – would have on gastronomy. A<br />
six-month trip to San Sebastián became a fi ve-year<br />
stay, before he headed to Majorca.<br />
Fosh also holds the impressive accolade of being<br />
the only British chef ever to have won a Michelin star<br />
in Spain, which he secured while at Majorca’s Read’s<br />
Hotel. And he’s in no doubt why the island is now<br />
buzzing. “Majorca has grown up,” he says. “Palma is<br />
84 | TRAVELLER<br />
now a really cool little city with so much going on.”<br />
Across the Balearic isle, there’s ample evidence<br />
that investors are keen to cash in on the infl ux of<br />
well-heeled visitors. Agro-tourism projects are thriving<br />
– there are now around 200 rural properties where<br />
guests can experience an authentic Majorcan way of<br />
life – and the property market is also booming. It <strong>may</strong><br />
not have reached the pre-recession levels of 2008,<br />
when house prices matched Barcelona and Madrid,<br />
but the average sale price of a residence in the island’s<br />
south-west is €1.2m, driven by great demand in the<br />
second-home market.<br />
If you want to see an area where money is really<br />
being lavished, then head to the isle’s western tip. At<br />
MOVERS AND SHAKERS Meet three of Majorca’s brightest business faces<br />
THE ISLAND CHAMPION<br />
A pioneer of agro-tourism,<br />
Joan Bonnin, 50, has spent the<br />
past 15 years showing visitors<br />
that there’s more to Majorca<br />
than sun and sand. He’s a former President of<br />
the Agroturismo Association, and now runs<br />
Casas de Son Barbassa, an agro-resort that<br />
makes it own produce, including olive oil.<br />
“Majorca has grown<br />
up. Palma is now a<br />
really cool little city<br />
with so much going on”<br />
THE COFFEE KING<br />
It’s no exaggeration to say that<br />
Juan Picornell has done more<br />
to turbo-charge café culture<br />
in Majorca than anyone. The<br />
40-year-old is behind the Cappucino chain<br />
that you’ll fi nd across the island and beyond.<br />
Infl uenced by classic Parisian cafés, his<br />
empire now stretches as far afi eld as Jeddah.<br />
THE ART NETWORKER<br />
Palma has more art spaces per<br />
head than anywhere in Europe<br />
and Eva Shakouri Torreadrado,<br />
37, is a major player. As director<br />
of La Caja Blanca gallery, she regularly brings<br />
in international artists. She also organises<br />
annual city-wide collaborations between<br />
galleries The next (Palma Photo) is in June.
Port Adriano, one of the island’s many yacht marinas,<br />
a new multimillion-euro facelift is taking place that<br />
will be fi nished just in time for the summer season.<br />
Masterminded by French designer Philippe Starck, the<br />
project includes a new commercial and leisure area,<br />
and an expanded marina that has scope to hold vessels<br />
in excess of 100m – what’s known in the trade as a<br />
gigayacht (yes, they do go that big).<br />
In some ways, this shouldn’t come as a surprise.<br />
Majorca has long been a key stopping-off point on the<br />
sailing circuit and the island has a whopping 44 ports<br />
scattered along its coast. But it’s only when you see<br />
them for yourself that you realise just what this means.<br />
Take a walk around Puerto Portals, for instance,<br />
one of the island’s most illustrious ports, and there’s<br />
an abundance of riches on show, as Sunseekers and<br />
Princesses bob up and down in the marina.<br />
It’s all rather idyllic and a world away from the kind<br />
of overbuilt coastal resort that you might expect to fi nd<br />
in Majorca. For the view alone, it’s a wonderful place;<br />
but even if your wallet doesn’t stretch to keeping a boat<br />
here, you can still make like the have-yachts at Wellies<br />
(wellies.es). This famed quayside bar is where the sailing<br />
set can be found each evening as the sun goes down –<br />
and you can join them for the price of a gin and tonic.<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Majorca from 16 destinations. See our insider<br />
guide on page 150. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
Clockwise from<br />
above, Port<br />
Adriano’s<br />
Philippe Starckdesigned<br />
facelift;<br />
once overlooked,<br />
Port de Sóller<br />
now has a<br />
Jumeirah hotel; a<br />
quayside view of<br />
Puerto Portals;<br />
Palma-based<br />
chef Marc Fosh in<br />
his Misa Braseria<br />
TRAVELLER | 85
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PROPERTY | ROME<br />
Artists’ Retreat<br />
JUST NORTH OF ROME, THE<br />
HILLTOP VILLAGE OF CALCATA<br />
HAS BEEN HOME TO A UNIQUE<br />
CULTURAL COMMUNITY FOR THE<br />
PAST 40 YEARS. AND GUESS<br />
WHAT? THEY LIVE IN CAVES...<br />
SARAH WARWICK<br />
PAOLO PORTOGHESI knows beauty when he sees it.<br />
One of Italy’s leading architects and former president<br />
of the architectural section of the Venice Biennale, he<br />
has designed many incredible buildings during an<br />
impressive career. It’s telling then, that this man who<br />
has spent his life studying great architecture has chosen<br />
to live, not in a grand palazzo in the heart of Rome, but<br />
on a simple hillside in the country, an hour’s drive north<br />
of the Italian capital.<br />
Yet, looking out at this view, it’s easy to see why. From<br />
the balcony of his living room, the 80-year-old has the<br />
perfect prospect over the tiny village of Calcata – one<br />
of the jewels of the Lazio region. From here, the place<br />
locals call il borgo (the village) looks like a tiny medieval<br />
island adrift on a wooded sea, the fl utter of pigeon<br />
wings above its rooftops reminiscent of confetti or the<br />
contents of a snow globe.<br />
It’s all very picturesque, but Calcata is also home to<br />
something else: a unique way of life. Over the past 40<br />
years, artists of all disciplines, abilities and nationalities<br />
have gravitated here and many have chosen to stay.<br />
Some, including Portoghesi, are big names – like<br />
88 | TRAVELLER<br />
Near right, a<br />
paintbox<br />
belonging to<br />
Simona Weller,<br />
one of Calcata’s<br />
resident artists;<br />
main picture,<br />
Calcata, as seen<br />
from the hill<br />
where architect<br />
Paolo Portoghesi<br />
has his house<br />
LORENZO PESCE
PROPERTY | ROME<br />
TRAVELLER | 89
SIDEBAR PHOTOS © GETTY IMAGES | DATA COURTESY IMMOBILIARE<br />
PROPERTY | ROME<br />
painter Simona Weller (the Pope numbers among her<br />
fans) and noted sculptor Constantino Morosin – while<br />
others specialise in jewellery making, pottery painting<br />
or traditional crafts. All live in unusual houses, and<br />
some even in caves, hollowed out of the tuff (volcanic<br />
rock) in pre-Roman times by the<br />
ancient Etruscans to make sacred<br />
spaces for their temples.<br />
In Calcata, culture is king. Concerts<br />
and exhibitions of all kinds are held at<br />
the local granary-turned-arts centre,<br />
Il Granarone (ilgranarone.com),<br />
attracting visitors from across Italy,<br />
while the main piazza is lined with<br />
art showrooms and workshops. In the<br />
evenings, live music plays at La Grotta<br />
dei Germogli, the rough-hewn bar in<br />
caves on the other side of the village, to<br />
denizens from around the globe.<br />
“Calcata is a microcosm of the<br />
world,” says Marijcke van der<br />
Maden, a Dutch marionette-maker<br />
who now runs Il Granarone. She<br />
introduces me to neighbours from<br />
Germany, Belgium and the USA, as<br />
well as Italy. Van der Maden herself<br />
arrived in 1984, when she was<br />
invited to host a show of her work in<br />
the village. “They said that I would<br />
like the place, as it’s small like my puppets,” she says<br />
with a smile.<br />
This unusually bohemian corner of rural Italy<br />
came about after a series of earthquakes caused the<br />
government to declare a number of villages across the<br />
country – including Calcata – unsafe to live in, and to<br />
evacuate its original inhabitants to a new town up the<br />
road. Paolo Portoghesi, originally from Rome, had come<br />
here as a youth in the 1950s, before the exodus of the<br />
original villagers. On his return in 1972, he was shocked<br />
to see that the village had been left to rot.<br />
“People had abandoned it and it became a ghost town,”<br />
he says, explaining his decision to exploit a loophole in the<br />
law and invest in a former stable up on the hill, where his<br />
impressive stone house stands today. “It was forbidden<br />
to sell the buildings, but people could still buy them,” he<br />
explains. Other people soon followed, attracted by the<br />
idea of creating a cosmopolitan retreat.<br />
“All the beautiful people came,” he says, “from<br />
aristocracy to the movie industry.” The village became a<br />
fashionable place to live or have a second home – “Stefania<br />
Sandrelli, the famous actress, lived here for many years”<br />
– it also became known for its new-age ideals. “Many of<br />
the people had certain avant-garde beliefs – ambientalists<br />
[environmentalist] and vegetarians.”<br />
Bruno and Paola, the owners of the local Rock Caffé<br />
bar (3 via Forno di Corte) are a good example of this.<br />
They moved here in the 1980s, attracted by the idea of a<br />
safe, traffi c-free place to raise their daughters. “In Calcata,<br />
90 | TRAVELLER<br />
all children are our children,” Bruno says. “If I saw a<br />
snotty nose or whatever, I would just wipe it. Why would<br />
I not? You don’t get that in Rome.”<br />
Despite the infl ux of freethinkers, Calcata was<br />
never a commune. Its 60 or so regular inhabitants live<br />
separate lives, albeit very close together. The place is<br />
tiny, a crammed knot of tightly knit lanes and archways,<br />
with a higgledy-piggledy organisation of dwellings,<br />
galleries and artists’ studios.<br />
No house in the village is the same as another. Van<br />
der Maden inhabits a mere 15m 2 , just a tiny rustic<br />
kitchenette and bed shelf, which she transformed from<br />
a disused storage area. Simona Weller’s elegant villa on<br />
the other hand, with its fi ne art, cut-glass decanters<br />
and dark wood furniture, wouldn’t look out of place in<br />
Homes & Gardens magazine. Of course the caves make
Clockwise from<br />
left, Marijcke van<br />
der Maden works<br />
on one of her<br />
puppets; the old<br />
sign at the<br />
entrance to town;<br />
local art centre<br />
Il Granarone;<br />
another of<br />
Calcata’s<br />
inhabitants<br />
enjoying the<br />
gentler pace<br />
of life here<br />
“In Calcata, all children<br />
are our children. You<br />
don’t get that in Rome”<br />
ROOMS WITH<br />
A VIEW<br />
PROPERTY | ROME<br />
Buy into the good life and<br />
a piece of history in one of<br />
Italy’s hilltop towns<br />
SAN GIMIGNANO, TUSCANY<br />
Known as Tuscany’s Manhattan for its<br />
high-rise medieval watchtowers, places here<br />
aren’t cheap, but come with real cachet.<br />
Average price per m 2 : €3,058<br />
CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO, LAZIO<br />
Like Calcata, this dramatic-looking hilltop<br />
village in the heart of Viterbo province is home<br />
to unusual properties and outstanding views.<br />
Average price per m 2 : €1,103<br />
MINERVINO MURGE, PUGLIA<br />
If mainland Italy is a foot, then Minervino is<br />
a charm on its ankle bracelet and there are<br />
bargains to be had in this medieval town.<br />
Average price per m 2 : €912<br />
TRAVELLER | 91
PROPERTY | ROME<br />
for the most unusual housing, like that<br />
owned by painter and furniture designer<br />
Enrico Abenavoli.<br />
“When I moved in, no one was<br />
living in this cave,” says Abenavoli, who<br />
explains that what is now his living<br />
room, with its elegant low sofa and<br />
tables, was once fi lled with stagnant<br />
water. Draining the caves and painting<br />
them with intricate North Africaninspired<br />
designs has given him a<br />
unique dwelling.<br />
In the early 1990s, after 20 years<br />
of campaigning, the government<br />
acknowledged that the village was<br />
not at risk of collapse and agreed to<br />
legitimise the rights of the inhabitants.<br />
In the years since, very little has<br />
changed. Indeed, it feels like a life<br />
unaltered for centuries. It’s so quiet at<br />
night that owls can be heard hooting<br />
in the countryside below, where<br />
villagers plant gardens and grow their<br />
vegetables. Afternoons can be spent<br />
enjoying a cup of tea on the sundrenched<br />
terrace at La Sala dei 201<br />
Thé (tel: +39 0761 589 415), the local<br />
teashop, with its undulating ceramic<br />
roof spackled with ancient lichen.<br />
At dusk, stone benches provide the<br />
location for a nightly gossip, friends<br />
and neighbours calling ciao across the<br />
darkening piazza.<br />
It <strong>may</strong> seem idyllic, but it has its<br />
drawbacks. “It’s not an easy life,” says<br />
Belgian-born Gemma Uyttendaele, who has been<br />
running La Sala for 21 years. “We have no shops here.<br />
Everything we need we get from outside and bring up.”<br />
In winter, the stone is cold and the valley winds are<br />
bitter. This February, 1.5m of snow fell.<br />
And, as in many places across Italy, the recession has<br />
had an impact. Many of the unusual houses – most of<br />
them the second homes of Romans feeling the pinch –<br />
are up for sale or rent, with neon posters announcing<br />
vendesi (for sale) on weathered façades. Although<br />
not going cheap – van der Maden estimates €2,000<br />
per m 2 is the going price – it is giving outsiders a rare<br />
chance to invest in an unusual location and a piece of<br />
the local dolce vita. She hopes the village gets the new<br />
blood it needs. “It needs some investment, a little bit of<br />
renovation,” she says ruefully.<br />
On a more positive note, however, the recession has<br />
also brought money to the village. As fewer Romans<br />
can afford holidays, they are spending more on day<br />
trips. Catering for the burgeoning visitor numbers, local<br />
chef Mario’s cosy Ristorante Graal (9 via Garibaldi) is<br />
popular for his handmade cavatelli with porcini and<br />
truffl es, ’nduja (Calibrian chilli sausage) on bruchetta<br />
92 | TRAVELLER<br />
Above,<br />
Calcata’s main<br />
piazza; right,<br />
Gemma<br />
Uyttendaele in<br />
La Sala, the<br />
Calcata<br />
teashop she’s<br />
run for over<br />
20 years<br />
and Montepulciano wine, pressed by Mario himself.<br />
For a much-needed nap after dinner, or those who<br />
want to stay a night, there are B&Bs – and van der<br />
Maden rents out a small apartment that has its own<br />
claim to fame, having housed Juliette Binoche during<br />
the 2004 fi lming of Mary, an Abel Ferrara fi lm. The<br />
French actress, star of Chocolat, is famously reclusive,<br />
and she is certainly no stranger to village life (at least in<br />
her fi lms). No doubt she loved it here, in this magical<br />
place. The only surprise is that she didn’t end up staying.<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Rome from 27 destinations. See our insider<br />
guide on page 170. Book online at easyJet.com
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A-Z | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
DESTINATION<br />
GUIDES<br />
A-Z<br />
we fl y 603 routes<br />
across 131 airports in<br />
29 countries in europe<br />
and beyond<br />
98 | TRAVELLER<br />
Madeira<br />
Tenerife South<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Gran Canaria<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
NEW<br />
Reykjavik<br />
Agadir<br />
La Coruña<br />
Santiago de Compostela<br />
Lisbon<br />
Casablanca<br />
Marrakech<br />
ICELAND<br />
Porto<br />
Faro<br />
PORTUGAL<br />
MOROCCO<br />
NEW<br />
Seville<br />
Gibraltar<br />
Tangier<br />
Málaga<br />
Fez<br />
Asturias<br />
SPAIN<br />
Madrid<br />
Brest<br />
Almería<br />
Belfast<br />
Isle of Man<br />
Glasgow<br />
Liverpool<br />
Aberdeen<br />
UK<br />
Birmingham<br />
Inverness<br />
Edinburgh<br />
Newcastle<br />
Leeds Bradford<br />
Manchester<br />
Bristol<br />
London STN<br />
LTN SEN<br />
Bournemouth<br />
LGW<br />
Bilbao<br />
Murcia<br />
Jersey<br />
Nantes<br />
La Rochelle<br />
Lille<br />
Paris CDG<br />
FRANCE<br />
Amsterdam<br />
NEW<br />
BELGIUM<br />
Brussels Int<br />
Paris ORY<br />
Bordeaux Lyon<br />
Biarritz Grenoble<br />
Valencia<br />
Alicante<br />
Dortmund<br />
NETHERLANDS<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Cologne/<br />
Bonn<br />
Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg<br />
Zürich<br />
SWITZERLAND<br />
Geneva<br />
Toulouse<br />
Nice<br />
Montpellier<br />
Marseille<br />
Barcelona<br />
Ibiza<br />
Majorca<br />
NEW<br />
Menorca<br />
Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio)<br />
Alghero<br />
NEW
DENMARK<br />
Hamburg<br />
GERMANY<br />
Stockholm<br />
SWEDEN<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Berlin<br />
Dresden<br />
Prague<br />
CZECH REPUBLIC<br />
Munich<br />
Salzburg Vienna<br />
Innsbruck<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
Milan<br />
MXP<br />
Verona<br />
SLOVENIA<br />
Ljubljana Zagreb<br />
Venice CROATIA<br />
Milan LIN<br />
POLAND<br />
Krakow<br />
HUNGARY<br />
Budapest<br />
Tallinn<br />
ESTONIA<br />
Bologna<br />
Pisa<br />
Corsica<br />
ITALY<br />
(Bastia)<br />
Split<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
Pristina<br />
KOSOVO<br />
Sofi a<br />
BULGARIA<br />
Istanbul<br />
Rome<br />
Olbia<br />
Naples<br />
Bari<br />
Thessaloniki<br />
Brindisi<br />
TURKEY<br />
Cagliari<br />
Lamezia<br />
GREECE<br />
Corfu<br />
NEW<br />
Izmir<br />
Palermo<br />
Catania<br />
Kefalonia<br />
Zante<br />
Athens<br />
Mykonos<br />
Santorini<br />
Antalya<br />
Bodrum<br />
Kos<br />
Dalaman<br />
Rhodes<br />
Crete (Chania) Crete (Heraklion) Cyprus<br />
(Paphos)<br />
Malta<br />
EGYPT<br />
A-Z | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
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GUIDES ARE<br />
UPDATED<br />
MONTHLY<br />
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Hurghada<br />
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ISRAEL<br />
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JORDAN<br />
TRAVELLER | 99
100 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Aberdeen<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £20.<br />
The Jet 727 runs<br />
every 30 minutes<br />
directly to the bus<br />
station. From 4.30am,<br />
tickets: £3 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Sand Dollar Café<br />
(2 Esplanade, Sea<br />
Beach, tel: 01224<br />
572 288) Perched<br />
on Aberdeen’s<br />
picturesque beach<br />
front, the Sand Dollar<br />
Café attracts locals<br />
and visitors with its<br />
homemade delicacies<br />
and friendly service.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Cinnamon (476 Union<br />
Street, tel: 01224<br />
633 328) A cut above<br />
your average Indian,<br />
Cinnamon creates<br />
exquisite dishes and<br />
each recipe has been<br />
inspired by traditional<br />
ingredients. Go for the<br />
irresistible Indian tapas<br />
to ensure you get the<br />
best of both worlds.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Siberia<br />
(9 Belmont Street)<br />
Siberia is a lively<br />
local bar. Complete<br />
with beer garden,<br />
pool table and an<br />
extensive library of<br />
board games, this is<br />
defi nitely a place to<br />
visit with friends.<br />
Food is served daily.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Society Bar and<br />
Restaurant (150<br />
Union Street, tel: 01224<br />
633 460) The newly<br />
refurbished Society<br />
boasts an extensive<br />
drinks menu including<br />
a delicious cocktail list<br />
– try the African Sunset<br />
Mojito. Most weekends<br />
a saxophonist plays,<br />
adding to the bar’s<br />
seductive ambience.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO First opened in<br />
1883, Duthie Park<br />
is of great historical<br />
signifi cance. The<br />
original Victorian<br />
bandstand is still<br />
regularly used today<br />
by busking musicians.<br />
The park also boasts<br />
an impressive rose<br />
mountain with over<br />
120,000 roses and the<br />
winter gardens<br />
are considered the<br />
largest covered<br />
gardens in Europe<br />
(Polmuir Road).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Kirk of St Nicholas<br />
houses the largest<br />
carillon in Britain,<br />
consisting of 48 bells.<br />
Beverley Tricker<br />
Agadir<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about MAD200.<br />
Route 22 to<br />
Inezgane runs<br />
every 40 minutes.<br />
From there take a bus<br />
to Agadir.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Restaurant Daff y (2<br />
Rue des Orangiers, tel:<br />
0528 820 068) Don’t<br />
be daff y by missing<br />
this popular little<br />
restaurant with its very<br />
aff ordable traditional<br />
Moroccan fare.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Rugantino (Plage<br />
d’Agadir, Centre Ville,<br />
tel: 0528 841 425)<br />
Rugantino off ers<br />
Italian cuisine, with<br />
specialities including<br />
fresh fi sh and woodfi<br />
red pizzas. Dine in<br />
style at this prime site<br />
on the seafront.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
O Gourmet (Marina,<br />
tel: 0528 848 023)<br />
Located at the<br />
marina, this stylish<br />
bar-restaurant is<br />
the perfect spot<br />
from which to watch<br />
the sunset. With a<br />
tempting selection of<br />
cakes, pastries and<br />
ice-cream sundaes.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Atlantic Palace (Hotel<br />
Atlantic Palace, Secteur<br />
Balneaire, tel: 0528<br />
843 366) Enjoy an<br />
evening at the superb<br />
Hotel Atlantic Palace.<br />
Take your pick from<br />
the casino, restaurant<br />
or disco with top DJs,<br />
comedians and<br />
variety acts.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The strong waves<br />
off Morocco’s Atlantic<br />
coast provide a great<br />
day for surfers. Even if<br />
you’re a beginner, hire<br />
a surfboard and pay for<br />
some lessons. Anchor<br />
Point and Devil’s Rock<br />
near Taghazout are<br />
popular spots.<br />
Anne Imisliou<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Tree-climbing<br />
goats in Morocco?<br />
Watch out for this<br />
spectacular activity<br />
where goats actually<br />
climb the Argan<br />
trees in search of<br />
nuts, which are used<br />
to make to oil.<br />
Alicante<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW,<br />
LTN, SEN, STN),<br />
Manchester, Newcastle<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
An airport bus<br />
to Alicante goes<br />
to the bus and railway<br />
stations, from where<br />
connections can be<br />
made to other resorts.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 D’els<br />
Artistes (6 Plaza de<br />
la Iglesia, tel: 96 584<br />
1269) A delightful<br />
venue set in the old<br />
quarter of Altea,<br />
where Swiss chef<br />
Roland Broggi cooks<br />
traditional French<br />
dishes with his own<br />
classical touch. Try the<br />
coquilles Saint-Jacques<br />
(scallops) or boned<br />
turbot in morels sauce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Il<br />
Giardino d’Altea (21<br />
Partida la Foya, Altea la<br />
Vieja, tel: 965 846 688)<br />
This classy restaurant<br />
is housed in a spacious<br />
Yorkshire Pride has been building up an excellent reputation as a fantastic place<br />
to eat in Benidorm for the past 16 years. It has become so popular as a home<br />
from home that there is now Yorkshire Pride 1, 2 and 3. Holidaymakers return<br />
year after year seeking the restaurant’s great home-cooked traditional l English<br />
dishes at affordable prices. Owners Tad and Lesley provide entertainment ment<br />
every night with the Tad Cocker Band. They also own ‘Bar Why Not’<br />
situated on the Calle Gerona which has karaoke every night.<br />
Tel: +34 966804932 or +34 649788887<br />
villa set amid tropical<br />
gardens. Choose the<br />
pâté de foie gras, roast<br />
venison, succulent rack<br />
of lamb, chateaubriand<br />
or the house speciality:<br />
sea bass cooked in<br />
packed salt.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Ipanema (34 Avenida<br />
de Albir) Located on<br />
the main thoroughfare<br />
of Albir as it winds its<br />
way to the beach, this<br />
venue is the ideal place<br />
for people-watching.<br />
Grab a table on the<br />
pavement and enjoy<br />
the evening breeze.<br />
Relax with a glass<br />
of wine or brandy<br />
while you watch the<br />
world go by.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Heroes (La Cala de<br />
Finestrat, tel: 667 581<br />
864) This popular<br />
spot off ers live<br />
entertainment and<br />
a supporting cabaret<br />
from 9.30pm.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Travel south of<br />
Alicante to Torrevieja<br />
for the month-long<br />
Feria de Mayo, started<br />
by an exiled Andalusian<br />
bar owner in 1988. The<br />
fi esta is staged on the<br />
Torrevieja fairground<br />
and celebrates all<br />
things Andalusian,<br />
including fl amenco<br />
music, traditional<br />
costumes and<br />
Andalucian horses.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Spain produces 44<br />
per cent of all the<br />
world’s olive oil.<br />
Danny Collins<br />
• Live Music<br />
• Karaoke<br />
• TV Screens<br />
• Pool Tables<br />
• Major Sport Events
T H E W O R L D O F P E R S O N A L N U M B E R P L A T E S<br />
I AAW<br />
I ABF<br />
I AFR<br />
I AKC<br />
ALK I<br />
I ATT<br />
I BBR<br />
I BBW<br />
I BDO<br />
I BEO<br />
I BEP<br />
BEZ I<br />
BFF I<br />
I BFN<br />
BJK I<br />
BJT I<br />
I BJV<br />
I BKM<br />
I BND<br />
I BWF<br />
I CAY<br />
I CCO<br />
CFD I<br />
CFF I<br />
I CHD<br />
I CHG<br />
I CJV<br />
I CKW<br />
I CNK<br />
I CNL<br />
CO I<br />
I CPJ<br />
I CRT<br />
I CSE<br />
I CSF<br />
CST I<br />
I CT<br />
CTK I<br />
I CVD<br />
I CVL<br />
DAO I<br />
I DBM<br />
I DCR<br />
DDF I<br />
I DDW<br />
I DFR<br />
I DFT<br />
I DHV<br />
DKP I<br />
I DSE<br />
I DUM<br />
I DVJ<br />
I DWR<br />
I DYB<br />
I EAA<br />
EBK I<br />
EBM I<br />
I EBN<br />
I EBR<br />
I EBU<br />
I EBW<br />
I EBY<br />
I ECD<br />
I ECL<br />
I EDC<br />
I EDK<br />
I EED<br />
I EEF<br />
I EEO<br />
I EFA<br />
I EFE<br />
I EFO<br />
I EFR<br />
I EGL<br />
I EHB<br />
I EHD<br />
I EHF<br />
I EHP<br />
EIG I<br />
I EJO<br />
EK I<br />
I EKW<br />
ELK I<br />
ELW I<br />
I ENE<br />
I ENL<br />
EPD I<br />
I EPN<br />
I EPR<br />
I ERK<br />
I ESW<br />
I ETP<br />
I EVC<br />
I EWF<br />
I EWH<br />
FAT I<br />
FBB I<br />
I FCF<br />
I FCJ<br />
I FDW<br />
I FEO<br />
I FET<br />
I FHC<br />
I FHG<br />
I FHH<br />
FJP I<br />
I FJT<br />
I FKK<br />
I FKP<br />
I FNC<br />
I FND<br />
FOR I<br />
FPB I<br />
I FPN<br />
I FPR<br />
I FRJ<br />
I FSF<br />
I FTP<br />
FU I<br />
GBK I<br />
I GBM<br />
I GCE<br />
GDN I<br />
I GDO<br />
GEZ I<br />
I GFO<br />
GHE I<br />
I GHT<br />
I GJN<br />
GLD I<br />
GMR I<br />
I GNA<br />
I GNF<br />
I GNJ<br />
I GNK<br />
I GNT<br />
GOM I<br />
I GOY<br />
I GPV<br />
I GVG<br />
GY I<br />
I GYG<br />
HBH I<br />
I HCA<br />
I HCB<br />
I HCT<br />
I HDF<br />
HDP I<br />
HDR I<br />
I HEE<br />
I HEK<br />
I HEO<br />
I HEX<br />
I HFA<br />
I HFB<br />
I HFG<br />
I HGP<br />
HGR I<br />
I HHD<br />
I HHF<br />
I HHG<br />
HHS I<br />
I HHT<br />
HHW I<br />
I HJR<br />
I HMK<br />
HRW I<br />
I HSO<br />
I HTP<br />
I HWA<br />
IT I<br />
I JDU<br />
I JFO<br />
I JGN<br />
I JHY<br />
I JKV<br />
I JNE<br />
I JUK<br />
I JVE<br />
I JYC<br />
I KBD<br />
I KBE<br />
I KCK<br />
I KCL<br />
I KCO<br />
KCT I<br />
I KDC<br />
KDJ I<br />
I KDO<br />
I KEK<br />
I KET<br />
I KFA<br />
KFK I<br />
I KFR<br />
KFT I<br />
I KFW<br />
I KGG<br />
I KGO<br />
I KGT<br />
KHE I<br />
I KHJ<br />
I KHR<br />
I KHS<br />
I KKC<br />
I KLE<br />
KLK I<br />
KR I<br />
I KRH<br />
I KRU<br />
KSE I<br />
I KUF<br />
I LBK<br />
LBW I<br />
LD I<br />
I LDA<br />
I LDD<br />
I LDK<br />
I LDO<br />
LE I<br />
I LEA<br />
LEK I<br />
LEL I<br />
LF I<br />
I LFE<br />
I LFG<br />
LFP I<br />
I LFS<br />
I LGG<br />
I LGN<br />
I LGR<br />
I LGT<br />
I LGW<br />
I LHB<br />
I LHL<br />
I LKF<br />
I LLD<br />
I LLF<br />
I LLG<br />
I LNL<br />
LOC I<br />
I LOD<br />
I LOY<br />
I LPA<br />
LPM I<br />
I LPS<br />
I LPV<br />
I LSE<br />
I LSM<br />
I LUJ<br />
I MDO<br />
I MFT<br />
I MGR<br />
I MHJ<br />
I MKF<br />
I MKG<br />
I MNF<br />
I MNG<br />
I MUG<br />
I MVS<br />
MWC I<br />
I MWG<br />
I NBA<br />
I NBK<br />
I NBN<br />
I NBP<br />
I NDK<br />
I NEF<br />
I NEG<br />
I NFB<br />
I NFN<br />
I NFT<br />
I NGD<br />
I NHD<br />
I NJJ<br />
I NJN<br />
NKZ I<br />
I NLL<br />
I NLP<br />
I NLW<br />
I NMO<br />
I NSP<br />
I NYK<br />
I OAB<br />
I OBB<br />
OCT I<br />
OGD I<br />
OSJ I<br />
I PBH<br />
PBM I<br />
I PCO<br />
I PD<br />
I PDD<br />
PDN I<br />
I PEW<br />
I PEX<br />
PFJ I<br />
I PFN<br />
I PFO<br />
I PFV<br />
I PHE<br />
I PHF<br />
PHR I<br />
I PKD<br />
I PKG<br />
I PLA<br />
I PNJ<br />
I POE<br />
I POF<br />
PPN I<br />
PPT I<br />
I PWD<br />
RBV I<br />
RCE I<br />
I RCO<br />
I REO<br />
I RFA<br />
I RFV<br />
I RGN<br />
I RGO<br />
I RHE<br />
I RLK<br />
I RNF<br />
I RO<br />
ROJ I<br />
I ROP<br />
RPD I<br />
I RPO<br />
I RSO<br />
I RUJ<br />
I RVD<br />
I RYK<br />
I SB<br />
I SBF<br />
I SCU<br />
I SCY<br />
I SEC<br />
I SFH<br />
SFO I<br />
I SGG<br />
I SGN<br />
SKT I<br />
I SKU<br />
I SKW<br />
I SLN<br />
SOJ I<br />
SWJ I<br />
I SYY<br />
I TBL<br />
I TBN<br />
I TBS<br />
I TBT<br />
I TCK<br />
I TCO<br />
TCT I<br />
I TDK<br />
I TDP<br />
TEK I<br />
I TER<br />
I TEW<br />
I TFN<br />
I TGE<br />
THG I<br />
I THK<br />
TKA I<br />
TPF I<br />
I TPO<br />
I TPP<br />
TPS I<br />
I TRD<br />
I TRN<br />
I TSF<br />
TSL I<br />
TSN I<br />
I TSO<br />
I TTB<br />
I TTK<br />
I TTP<br />
I TTS<br />
TWJ I<br />
I UL<br />
I UT<br />
I UY<br />
I VAD<br />
I VAW<br />
VBS I<br />
I VCA<br />
I VCM<br />
I VCR<br />
I VDD<br />
I VDP<br />
VE I<br />
VFN I<br />
VGL I<br />
VGR I<br />
I VHR<br />
I VJD<br />
I VJT<br />
I VLS<br />
I VMJ<br />
VOB I<br />
I VPR<br />
VRB I<br />
I VRG<br />
I VVC<br />
I VVK<br />
I WAA<br />
I WAF<br />
I WAJ<br />
WBB I<br />
I WBK<br />
WC I<br />
I WCD<br />
I WCG<br />
I WCP<br />
WDP I<br />
I WDT<br />
I WE<br />
I WEA<br />
WFP I<br />
I WGC<br />
I WGG<br />
WGK I<br />
I WGL<br />
WJB I<br />
I WJJ<br />
I WKF<br />
I WKS<br />
I WLC<br />
I WNA<br />
I WNC<br />
I WPW<br />
I WRM<br />
I WRP<br />
I WSE<br />
I WSG<br />
I WSJ<br />
I WSK<br />
I WTK<br />
WVA I<br />
I WVM<br />
I WWD<br />
I YAB<br />
YCA I<br />
I YD<br />
I YEL<br />
YJS I<br />
I YL<br />
YLY I<br />
I YSB<br />
I YY<br />
Regtransfers.co.uk<br />
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The Grasshopper<br />
Amsterdam<br />
WWW.THEGRASSHOPPER.NL<br />
Oudebrugsteeg 16<br />
1012 JP, Amsterdam<br />
Tel. +31 204232424<br />
Th e Grasshopper is a stately monumental building in<br />
the heart of the historic centre of Amsterdam off ering a<br />
unique place to go for lunch / dinner or to host a party.<br />
Th e Discobar on the ground fl oor and the Sportsbar on<br />
the fi rst fl oor off er informal dining where you can either<br />
dance or watch some sport respectively. A smoking<br />
room is also available.<br />
On the second fl oor you can fi nd our Steakhouse Evita<br />
where you can have a hearty lunch or a delicious dinner<br />
from our Argentine / Spanish infl uenced kitchen with<br />
a splendid view over the city.<br />
Weather permitting you can also enjoy our terrace and<br />
sit on the waterside to enjoy your lunch or dinner.
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Almería<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €13.<br />
Route 20 goes to<br />
the centre.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Aqua<br />
Marina (30 Paseo<br />
del Mediterráneo,<br />
Mojácar, tel: 950<br />
475 948) Situated<br />
next to the beach,<br />
Aqua Marina has<br />
fantastic sea views,<br />
great salads and<br />
giant pizzas almost<br />
the size of car tyres.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Merendero La<br />
Playa (Playa del<br />
Alquián, tel: 950<br />
520 171) As the<br />
name suggests, this<br />
restaurant is at the<br />
beach, with great<br />
views over the bay. It<br />
should come as no<br />
surprise that the fi sh<br />
is fresh and extremely<br />
good, with fried fi sh<br />
a speciality. A great<br />
spot to to sit outside<br />
at lunchtime.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Los<br />
Pescadores (30<br />
Avenida Antonio<br />
Machado, Roquetas<br />
del Mar, tel: 950 320<br />
374) Top little tapas<br />
bar near the harbour<br />
in Roquetas del Mar.<br />
Enjoy good fi sh snacks<br />
free with your beer.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
El Zaguán (40<br />
Calle San Leonardo)<br />
Atmospheric bar<br />
staging concerts,<br />
theatre and other live<br />
acts. Music ranges<br />
from Elvis to Kings<br />
of Leon, with some<br />
Spanish stuff thrown in.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Roquetas del Mar<br />
authorities recently<br />
revealed that the<br />
number of abandoned<br />
animals has soared.<br />
Last year, they picked<br />
up 691 dogs and cats,<br />
and found new homes<br />
for nearly half these<br />
animals – mostly in<br />
northern Europe.<br />
David Jones<br />
MUSIC<br />
FESTIVAL<br />
SEE The SOS.48<br />
festival in Murcia is<br />
a must-do. Running<br />
from 3-6 May, the<br />
festival features top<br />
bands such as Pulp,<br />
Mogwai and The<br />
Flaming Lips, along<br />
with many others.<br />
Amman<br />
Jordan<br />
DIALLING CODE +962<br />
CURRENCY JOD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs JOD23.<br />
The bus takes 50<br />
minutes from the<br />
airport. Tickets: JOD3<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Camel’s B@C<br />
(Baouniyyeh Street,<br />
Amman, tel: 06465<br />
7881) Middle Eastern<br />
food with a modern<br />
funky twist served<br />
up at a new café run<br />
by two of Amman’s<br />
coolest independent<br />
companies, JoBedu<br />
and Books@.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
O Six (Canyon<br />
Boutique Hotel, Adeeb<br />
Wahbeh Street, tel:<br />
06 566 9110) A new<br />
roof-top restaurant<br />
with stunning views<br />
across Amman,<br />
a terrace and<br />
retractable ceilings<br />
make O Six a unique<br />
dining experience<br />
throughout the<br />
year. The menu has<br />
been designed to<br />
share, allowing you<br />
the chance to try<br />
more than one dish<br />
guilt-free.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Sanctuary (Sheraton<br />
Amman Al Nabil Hotel<br />
& Towers, tel: 06 593<br />
4111) An open-air<br />
lounge where you<br />
sit under the stars<br />
or beneath white<br />
canopies sipping<br />
cocktails and listening<br />
to chilled DJ sets.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cube Lounge<br />
(Shepherd Hotel, Said<br />
Bin Hareth Street,<br />
Jabal Amman, tel: 07<br />
9985 5955) Intimate<br />
venue renowned for<br />
its funky sounds and<br />
Champagne cocktails,<br />
Cube hosts regular DJ<br />
sets and occasional<br />
themed nights with an<br />
emphasis on dancing.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO A 40-minute<br />
drive from Amman<br />
is Jerash, one of the<br />
most well-preserved<br />
and extensive Roman<br />
sites outside Italy.<br />
Every day except<br />
Tuesday, there are<br />
vivid reenactments<br />
of chariot races and<br />
Roman soldiery.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although Amman’s<br />
importance<br />
diminished from the<br />
end of the Byzantine<br />
period until the 1920s,<br />
it is one of the oldest<br />
continuously occupied<br />
cities in the world.<br />
Huw J Williams<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 103<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Netherlands<br />
DIALLING CODE +31<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Belfast,<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Lisbon,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, SEN, STN),<br />
Madrid, Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Prague,<br />
Rome, Split<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
There are seven<br />
trains an hour<br />
to Centraal station.<br />
Tickets: €3.80 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Stock<br />
(50 Damrak, tel:<br />
020 427 5382)<br />
So-called because of<br />
its proximity to the<br />
city’s stock exchange,<br />
this airy and funky<br />
new canteen is a<br />
welcome addition to<br />
a street that most<br />
Amsterdammers try to<br />
avoid for its junk-food<br />
chains. Choose from a<br />
range of fresh broodjes<br />
and homemade soups,<br />
and pull up a pew.<br />
UP TO €30 Café<br />
Wildschut (1 Roelof<br />
Hartplein, tel: 020 676<br />
8220) With its fl oorto-ceiling<br />
windows,<br />
roadside terrace<br />
and marble-topped<br />
bars, Wildschut<br />
typifi es the kind of<br />
grand café that has<br />
thrived in the wealthy<br />
Museum Quarter<br />
for the best part of<br />
two centuries. Pretty<br />
much all tastes are<br />
catered for, but don’t<br />
leave without trying<br />
the bitterballen with<br />
mustard, the perfect<br />
accompaniment to<br />
a cold beer.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Mamouche (104<br />
Quellijnstraat, tel:<br />
020 670 0736) This<br />
modern Moroccan<br />
restaurant has won<br />
prizes for its interior<br />
design, but the food<br />
is just as beautifully<br />
conceived and good<br />
looking. Think fi lo<br />
dough fi lled with<br />
chicken, sweet onion,<br />
raisins, cinnamon<br />
and almonds.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurant<br />
Beddington’s (141<br />
Utrechtsedewarsstraat,<br />
tel: 020 620<br />
7393) Expert chef<br />
Jean Beddington has<br />
made something of<br />
a name for herself in<br />
Amsterdam for serving<br />
up expert versions of<br />
great British staples<br />
alongside more<br />
international fare.<br />
Décor-wise, things<br />
don’t get much<br />
chicer, with crisp<br />
white tablecloths and<br />
design-icon chairs.<br />
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 Amsterdam<br />
Next to the ‘Sensi Seed Bank’<br />
Open all week from 10.00 until 23.00 hours<br />
www.hashmuseum.com
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Netherlands<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Hiding<br />
In Plain Sight (18<br />
Rapenburg, tel: 06<br />
2471 4132 ) The<br />
newest addition to the<br />
east reaches of the Old<br />
Centre, Hiding In Plain<br />
Sight is, as the name<br />
implies, a speakeasy-<br />
type gin joint. The<br />
cocktails are brilliantly<br />
imaginative, with the<br />
more lethal varieties in<br />
a special section<br />
of the menu.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Tunes (27 Van<br />
Baerlestraat, tel: 020<br />
570 0000) It <strong>may</strong><br />
sound like a corny<br />
karaoke bar, but Tunes<br />
is one of the most<br />
glamorous sipping<br />
spots in town. Part of<br />
the impressive fi vestar<br />
Conservatorium<br />
Hotel, it attracts a<br />
dolled-up crowd with<br />
its large smoking<br />
room and monster<br />
sound system.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Paradiso (6<br />
Weteringschans)<br />
This former church is<br />
packed every night,<br />
playing host to music<br />
legends in its main<br />
hall and to up-andcoming<br />
artists in the<br />
upstairs lounge.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Harlemmerdijk<br />
is one of the city’s<br />
hottest style spots<br />
at the moment, with<br />
fashionably quirky<br />
boutiques doing a<br />
roaring trade. Latest<br />
to the fold is Louis<br />
Maximilian, who sells<br />
a mix of designer<br />
men’s and women’s<br />
clothing plus gadgets<br />
(lmamsterdam.com).<br />
SEE Weather<br />
permitting, it’s the<br />
perfect time of year to<br />
enjoy the city’s park<br />
life. From 17–20 May,<br />
the “rolling kitchens”<br />
festival will be in<br />
Westerpark. Ice-cream<br />
vans and other mobile<br />
kitchens convene to<br />
serve up an array of<br />
tasty treats.<br />
GO The Begijnhof,<br />
adjacent to the city<br />
centre book market,<br />
is a secluded hidden<br />
courtyard that’s open<br />
to the public. Built for<br />
a community of poor<br />
but devoutly religious<br />
women, it features<br />
one of Amsterdam’s<br />
prettiest churches.<br />
ESCAPE Just a<br />
20-minute bike ride<br />
from Amsterdam,<br />
Amtstelveen has a<br />
modern city centre<br />
with a world-class<br />
modern-art institution,<br />
the Cobra Museum<br />
(cobra-museum.nl).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Amsterdam claims the<br />
world’s fi rst Bicycle<br />
Hotel. You don’t get to<br />
sleep on your saddle,<br />
but the staff will advise<br />
on the best cycle trip.<br />
Mark Smith<br />
Antalya<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY TRY<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs TRY60.<br />
Bus No 202<br />
runs from the<br />
domestic terminal to<br />
the city centre TRY4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Vanilla Café Lounge<br />
(Barbaros Mah,<br />
33 Hesapçı Sokak,<br />
Kaleiçi, tel: 0242 247<br />
6013) This venue<br />
is a must. With its<br />
cosy, modern décor,<br />
it’s the perfect place<br />
to start the evening<br />
with a cocktail before<br />
sampling one of the<br />
restaurant’s signature<br />
healthy creations,<br />
such as roast<br />
vegetable lasagna.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante Verona<br />
(Ramada Plaza<br />
Antalya, 22 Fevzi<br />
Çakmak Caddesi, tel:<br />
0242 249 1111) À la<br />
carte Italian cuisine of<br />
this quality is a rarity<br />
in Antalya. Verona<br />
<br />
off ers a varied menu<br />
with great pasta, pizza,<br />
seafood and maincourse<br />
meat dishes<br />
to satisfy any palate,<br />
all accompanied by<br />
an especially good<br />
wine list.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Black<br />
Ice Bar (Ramada<br />
Plaza Antalya, Gençlik<br />
Mahallesi, 22 Fevzi<br />
Çakmak Caddesi, tel:<br />
0242 249 1111) You’ll<br />
get more than you<br />
bargained for when<br />
you come here to<br />
chill out. The walls,<br />
furniture and even<br />
the glasses are made<br />
of ice. Thankfully, the<br />
proprietors provide<br />
warm clothing.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
King Bar (11 Kaleiçi<br />
Yatlimanı, tel: 0242<br />
248 4891) King Bar is<br />
situated deep in the<br />
heart of Old Antalya.<br />
Although it’s nestled<br />
among ancient walls<br />
and ruins, you’ll fi nd<br />
anything but a tired<br />
old scene here.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Fire of<br />
Anatolia dance<br />
spectacular is a mustsee<br />
and will be showing<br />
on 1, 4, 8 and 15 May<br />
(fi reofanatolia.be).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Antalya is mentioned<br />
in the Bible: “And<br />
when they [Saint Paul<br />
and Saint Barnabas]<br />
had preached the<br />
word in Perga, they<br />
went down into<br />
Attalia” (Acts 14:25).<br />
Jon Stigner<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 105<br />
Asturias<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, Lisbon,<br />
London (STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Oviedo is<br />
about €53, Gijón €45<br />
and Avilés €23.<br />
The Express bus<br />
runs hourly from<br />
6am–11pm to Oviedo<br />
and Gijón. Tickets:<br />
€7.50. There are<br />
less frequent buses<br />
to Avilés (alsa.es).<br />
Tickets: €1.40.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Iglesiona (34 Begoña,<br />
Gijón, tel: 985 171 417)<br />
Bustling restaurant<br />
with rustic décor<br />
serving excellent-value<br />
lunchtime specials,<br />
often including sirloin<br />
steak. There’s usually<br />
a fi sh dish for those<br />
who prefer seafood.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Taberna del Zurdo<br />
(27 Cervantes, tel: 985<br />
963 096) Highly rated<br />
and trendy, this central,<br />
modern restaurant<br />
serves awardwinning<br />
fusion food,<br />
specialising in tapas.<br />
Try the langoustines<br />
with Parmesan, the<br />
cod tortilla or one<br />
of their rice dishes<br />
washed down with<br />
an excellent wine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Opera<br />
Prima (12 Cabrales,<br />
Gijón) If you’d like to<br />
drink in a cosy cafépub<br />
with splendid<br />
sea views and good<br />
service, Opera Prima<br />
is the place. A café<br />
during the day, things<br />
hot up at night with<br />
music at weekends.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Nirvana Club Café<br />
(22 Ezcurdia) This new<br />
club, a few blocks back<br />
from the beach, has<br />
really taken off . The<br />
two-fl oor venue blasts<br />
out electro-house on<br />
the lower fl oor and<br />
rock-pop on the upper.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Catch the<br />
Ascension Day<br />
celebrations (17 May)<br />
in Oviedo and/or the<br />
much-loved local<br />
festival, Martes de<br />
Campo (29th), when<br />
locals eat “pregnant<br />
buns” – bread rolls<br />
containing spicy<br />
chorizo sausages.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although Oviedo was<br />
unlucky with its bid<br />
to become European<br />
Capital of Culture<br />
2016, the town has<br />
a population of only<br />
225,000 yet boasts<br />
an art auditorium, a<br />
theatre-come-opera<br />
house, a fi ne-art gallery<br />
and a museum.<br />
Karen Thomas<br />
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106 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Athens<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris<br />
(ORY), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Proastiako<br />
and Metro line<br />
trains service the city.<br />
Tickets: €8 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Yiasemi (23<br />
Mnisikleous Street,<br />
tel: 213 041 7937)<br />
A perfect gem of a<br />
café-bistrot just<br />
dripping with local<br />
colour, with its<br />
mismatched junk-<br />
shop furniture and<br />
homecooked food,<br />
rooftop terrace and<br />
tables on one of the<br />
stairs leading up to the<br />
Acropolis in Plaka.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Galazia Hytra (40<br />
Apollonos Street,<br />
Vouliagmeni, tel: 210 33<br />
16 767) An upmarket<br />
restaurant specialising<br />
in Greek cuisine, with<br />
a charming view and<br />
exceptionally high<br />
standards that have<br />
earned it one of the<br />
few Michelin stars<br />
awarded in Athens.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Santa<br />
Botella (115A<br />
Panormou Street, tel:<br />
210 698 1032) A funky<br />
street bar situated<br />
right in the middle of<br />
a row of bars and<br />
clubs at the lower<br />
end of Panormou.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Nipiagogeio (8<br />
Kleanthous Street &<br />
Elasidon, Gazi, tel: 210<br />
345 8534) This bar<br />
has two stages: one<br />
mellow and laid-back<br />
in an open courtyard<br />
at the back, and one<br />
that can pretty quickly<br />
turn electric.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO If the sunny<br />
weather makes you<br />
hanker for a swim, but<br />
the cold sea puts you<br />
off , try visiting Lake<br />
Vouliagmeni, where the<br />
water is a comfortable<br />
24°C all year round.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
While digging the<br />
metro station<br />
at Monastiraki,<br />
contractors found<br />
the lost Eridanos<br />
River, which had been<br />
converted into a sewer<br />
during the time of<br />
Emperor Hadrian.<br />
The river has now<br />
been incorporated<br />
into the design of<br />
the new station.<br />
Eva Webster<br />
Barcelona<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Dortmund,<br />
Geneva, Lisbon,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, SEN,<br />
STN), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Newcastle, Nice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Trains service the<br />
Sants Estació.<br />
Tickets: €2.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Elisabets (2-4 Carrer<br />
Elisabets, tel: 93 317<br />
5826) This unfussy<br />
tapas bar has largely<br />
been overlooked<br />
by the guidebooks<br />
despite fulfi lling all the<br />
classic entry criteria.<br />
Authentic vibe, great<br />
food (try the morcilla),<br />
cheap prices and even<br />
the odd modernista<br />
touch to the décor.<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Carassa (1 Carrer<br />
Brosoli, tel: 93 310<br />
3306) The set menu<br />
for €23 gets you three<br />
courses plus two<br />
glasses of wine – and<br />
a glass of Cava – at<br />
this intimate venue in<br />
El Born. Many of the<br />
dishes are purported<br />
to have aphrodisiacal<br />
properties.<br />
UP TO €50 Dans<br />
le Noir (10 Paseo<br />
Picasso, tel: 93 268<br />
7017) If you’re in the<br />
mood for experiential<br />
dining, then head over<br />
to Dans Le Noir, where<br />
fresh market cuisine<br />
is served in absolute<br />
darkness by blind<br />
waiters. Half the fun is<br />
guessing what you’re<br />
eating... and who<br />
you’re talking to.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurant Sant Pau<br />
(10 Carrer Nou, Sant<br />
Pol de Mar, tel: 93 760<br />
0662) You’ll have to<br />
travel nearly 50km up<br />
the coast to Sant Pol<br />
de Mar, but if you look<br />
to the sky you should<br />
see three Michelin<br />
stars guiding your path.<br />
Run by renowned chef<br />
PRIMAVERA<br />
SOUND<br />
SEE On 30 May<br />
see free concerts by<br />
Saint Etienne, Black<br />
Lips and others,<br />
while on the 31st,<br />
the action kicks off<br />
properly at Parc del<br />
Forum (sanmiguel<br />
primaverasound.es).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Carme Ruscalleda,<br />
the menu is rooted<br />
in Catalan traditions<br />
while the restaurant is<br />
dramatically located in<br />
a seaside mansion.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cala<br />
del Vermut (6 Carrer<br />
de les Magdalenes)<br />
A quick glass of<br />
vermouth before lunch<br />
was once a tradition<br />
and luckily you can<br />
still fi nd one or two<br />
old-school vermuterias<br />
if you need a fi x of<br />
wormwood wine –<br />
such as this charming<br />
nook of a bar in Gotico.<br />
Order a side tapa of<br />
anchovies if you want<br />
to appear local.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Razzmatazz (88<br />
Carrer Pamplona, tel:<br />
93 320 8200) The fi ve<br />
rooms of this former<br />
factory in Poblenou<br />
host an array of indie<br />
and dance gigs by<br />
semi-famous artists,<br />
before turning into the<br />
city’s biggest nightclub<br />
around 1am.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Factory Club (5-7<br />
Carrer Escudellers)<br />
Techno rules the<br />
roost at this new club<br />
right in the centre of<br />
partyville. Spatially,<br />
it’s nothing special,<br />
but so far they seem<br />
to have succeeded in<br />
attracting the right<br />
sort of people to enjoy<br />
the underground vibe.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP One of<br />
Europe’s premier food<br />
markets, La Boqueria<br />
is half grocery store,<br />
half tourist attraction.<br />
Sneak past the<br />
camera-wielding<br />
hordes for better deals<br />
on meat, cheese and<br />
seafood at the back.<br />
Look out for stalls<br />
selling fresh fruit<br />
juice, sangria<br />
and hot chocolate<br />
(91 La Rambla).<br />
GO With the grand<br />
Santa Maria del Mar<br />
Gothic church, the<br />
tree-lined Passeig del<br />
Born square, weird<br />
museums (such as the<br />
Chocolate Museum<br />
and the Mammoth<br />
Museum), and plenty<br />
of hip bars, restaurants<br />
and boutiques in<br />
hidden alleys, El Born<br />
is one barrio worth<br />
bothering with.<br />
ESCAPE The sleepy<br />
village of Sant Pol de<br />
Mar makes for a nice<br />
contrast to bustling<br />
Barcelona and<br />
gourmands will have<br />
already noted that the<br />
three-star Sant Pau<br />
Restaurant makes its<br />
home here. During the<br />
day, take a walk on the<br />
Cami de Ronda coastal<br />
footpath to fi nd hidden<br />
coves and beaches.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Despite being adored<br />
today, Gaudi was<br />
loathed by many of<br />
his contemporaries,<br />
including Picasso and<br />
George Orwell, who<br />
both took exception<br />
to his work. Even Dali<br />
had a swing, saying<br />
the architect had<br />
“superbly creative<br />
bad taste”.<br />
Duncan Rhodes/<br />
Barcelona-life.com
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Bari<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Route 16 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Bracceria Da<br />
Matteo (6 Largo<br />
IV Novembre, tel:<br />
080 408 6380)<br />
Good solid pizza<br />
bar that also serves<br />
up succulent meat<br />
dishes. Try any of<br />
the meat skewers<br />
with some good<br />
Primitivo wine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Lo Sprofondo<br />
(109 Corso Vittorio<br />
Emmanuele, tel: 080<br />
521 3697) This is the<br />
place where Bari’s<br />
smart set dine. It<br />
has a certain Italian<br />
pomp and ceremony<br />
that can be fun,<br />
and the food is<br />
excellent. Try the<br />
braciolette of veal.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caff é<br />
Mozart (9 Via Ciasca<br />
Cardinale Agostino,<br />
tel: 08 0504 2394)<br />
Good for a midevening<br />
coff ee and<br />
cake before dining<br />
in the surrounding<br />
restaurants or<br />
drinking in one<br />
of the lively<br />
neighbouring bars.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Autodrom Club<br />
(Contrada Lamandia,<br />
Monopoli) The<br />
Autodromo Club<br />
is certainly worth<br />
checking out. There<br />
is nearly always<br />
a weekend event<br />
consisting of live<br />
acts or DJs. Find<br />
out what’s going on<br />
before heading down<br />
in the evening – the<br />
music can vary from<br />
R ‘n’ B to techno and<br />
a magnitude of mixes<br />
in between.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Cathedral<br />
of San Sabino is<br />
an 11th-century<br />
edifi ce with its own<br />
museum where you<br />
can see remarkably<br />
preserved ancient<br />
liturgy scrolls<br />
(Piazza Odegitria).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Just a 30-minute<br />
drive south down the<br />
coast is Polignano A<br />
Mare, a picturesque<br />
cliff -side town where,<br />
among their fantastic<br />
fi sh restaurants, they<br />
allegedly have the<br />
best pistachio ice<br />
cream in Italy.<br />
Max Keep<br />
Basel/<br />
Mulhouse/<br />
Freiburg<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />
Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />
Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />
Dresden, Düsseldorf,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Fuerteventura, Gran<br />
Canaria, Hamburg,<br />
Ibiza, Istanbul, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Marrakech,<br />
Nantes, Naples, Nice,<br />
Olbia, Rome, Porto,<br />
Pristina, Split, Tel Aviv,<br />
Tenerife, Thessaloniki,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your<br />
taxi at easyJet.<br />
com. The fare to Basel<br />
is about CHF40 and<br />
Mulhouse €40.<br />
Route 50 takes<br />
you to Basel’s<br />
main train station.<br />
Tickets: CHF3.80.<br />
In France,<br />
shuttles go to the<br />
station in Saint-Louis<br />
for trains to Mulhouse.<br />
Tickets: €1.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Restaurant Veronica<br />
(195 St Alban-<br />
Rheinweg, Basel, tel:<br />
061 311 2575) This<br />
reasonably priced,<br />
simple restaurant<br />
has perhaps the best<br />
location in Basel – on<br />
the Rhybadhysli (Rhine<br />
bath house) above the<br />
fl owing waters of the<br />
Rhine. It’s a pleasant<br />
15-minute walk<br />
upstream from<br />
Greater Basel.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Restaurant Schnabel<br />
(2 Trillengässlein, tel:<br />
061 261 2121) A very<br />
nice, brasserie-style<br />
restaurant serving<br />
traditional Basler food,<br />
often with ingredients<br />
from the area. The<br />
restaurant is best<br />
known for its “die<br />
falsche Schnägge”<br />
(fake snails), which are<br />
escargots with pork<br />
instead of snails.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Winstub Henriette<br />
(9 Rue Henriette,<br />
Mulhouse, tel: 03<br />
8946 2783) This<br />
cosy restaurant near<br />
TOY WORLD’S<br />
MUSEUM<br />
SEE The exhibition<br />
Christening and<br />
much more,<br />
throughout the<br />
month, visits gifts,<br />
crowns and customs<br />
of Baptisms from the<br />
past three centuries<br />
(Steinenvorstadt).<br />
FILLER Basel Tourism ADVERT<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 109<br />
the cathedral off ers<br />
Alsatian cuisine a cut<br />
above that served<br />
by many other<br />
restaurants, as well as<br />
a great selection<br />
of local wines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Auberge St-Laurent<br />
(1 Rue Fontaine,<br />
Sierentz) For exclusive<br />
eating, it’s worth<br />
considering a short<br />
drive (or taxi) across<br />
the border from Basel<br />
into France to the<br />
Auberge St-Laurent,<br />
where one can get<br />
a Michelin-star<br />
experience at a<br />
signifi cantly lower price<br />
than in Basel, whether<br />
you’re after local foie<br />
gras, Munster cheese,<br />
Alsatian wine or lobster<br />
fl own in from Canada.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le<br />
Poussin Vert (3 Rue<br />
Rothmuller, Colmar,<br />
tel: 03 8941 1858) This<br />
bar, where the young<br />
artists of Colmar hang<br />
out, has lots of outdoor<br />
seating in a private<br />
garden for warm<br />
spring evenings. Open<br />
mic on Wednesdays.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Le Charlie’s (26 Rue<br />
de la Sinne, Mulhouse,<br />
tel: 03 8966 1222) In<br />
its lovingly restored<br />
art-deco lounge, Le<br />
Charlie’s stages live<br />
jazz every night of the<br />
week to a chilled-out<br />
crowd. Come and<br />
sip a dry martini or<br />
whisky sour – the<br />
epitome of cool. In<br />
the same building as<br />
one of Mulhouse’s<br />
top restaurants.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Hotel Restaurant<br />
Klingental (20<br />
Klingental, Basel, tel:<br />
061 681 6248) If it’s<br />
late and you’re looking<br />
for a huge piece of<br />
meat, a beer tap<br />
that’s still running and<br />
nocturnal waiting staff ,<br />
this is the place to go.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP In search<br />
of the best bread<br />
in France? Léonard<br />
Helmstetter would be<br />
a good place to start.<br />
His succulent loafs are<br />
the standard in all the<br />
top local restaurants,<br />
though if you make<br />
the trip, it’s worth<br />
indulging in something<br />
sweet (11–13 Rue des<br />
Serruriers, Colmar).<br />
GO Lesser Basel is<br />
Basel’s grittier side,<br />
but is also the location<br />
of many of the best<br />
night and eating spots,<br />
particularly if you’re<br />
looking for a bargain.<br />
ESCAPE From<br />
Basel Schiffl ände<br />
you can go up or<br />
down the Rhine, with<br />
both swanky dining<br />
ships and more basic<br />
(and economical)<br />
voyages to Rheinfelden<br />
available (bpg.ch).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In a landlocked country,<br />
Basel’s place on the<br />
Rhine makes it by far<br />
the most important<br />
shipping destination<br />
in Switzerland, with<br />
between 10 and<br />
25 % of all imports<br />
coming into the city’s<br />
three harbours.<br />
Richard Harvell<br />
Basel. Where art is a lifestyle.<br />
Phone +41 (0)61 268 68 68<br />
info@basel.com<br />
www.basel.com
110 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Belfast<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Barcelona, Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,<br />
Krakow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN, SEN), Málaga,<br />
Malta, Manchester,<br />
Newcastle, Majorca,<br />
Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £25.<br />
Translink run a<br />
service to the<br />
centre. Tickets: £7<br />
single; £10 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Villa<br />
Italia (37 University<br />
Road, tel: 028 9032<br />
8356) If you are in the<br />
mood for some nononsense,<br />
good-value<br />
Italian food, this place<br />
is hard to beat. It tends<br />
to be busy most nights<br />
of the week, so you<br />
<strong>may</strong> have to queue.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Muriel’s (12 Church<br />
Lane, tel: 028 9033<br />
2445) This quirky bar<br />
THE MOST FAMOUS<br />
IRISH PUB IN BERLIN<br />
on the edge of the<br />
Cathedral Quarter<br />
is a real fi nd. Actress<br />
Natalie Portman called<br />
in for a drink while<br />
she was fi lming in<br />
town a year or so ago.<br />
It’s a great spot for<br />
breakfast, lunch or an<br />
early evening dinner.<br />
Try the Eggs Benedict.<br />
UP TO €50 Mourne<br />
Seafood Bar (34–36<br />
Bank Street, tel: 028<br />
9024 8544) Tucked<br />
away in a quiet street,<br />
this terrifi c seafood<br />
restaurant is a must<br />
for anyone who is<br />
serious about fi sh. The<br />
restaurant has a bistro<br />
feel to it and the food<br />
is second to none.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Shu<br />
(253 Lisburn Road,<br />
tel: 028 9038 1655)<br />
Consistently voted<br />
one of the best places<br />
to eat in Ireland, never<br />
mind Belfast, this wellestablished<br />
restaurant<br />
is situated on the<br />
affl uent Lisburn Road<br />
so there are lots of art<br />
galleries and trendy<br />
HOTEL<br />
FITZWILLIAM<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Enjoy spacious<br />
rooms and bold<br />
décor of limes and<br />
mustards, in a hotel<br />
located opposite<br />
the Opera House.<br />
From €83, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
boutiques nearby. If<br />
you are on a budget,<br />
the pre-theatre menu<br />
is also excellent.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Morning Star (17–19<br />
Pottingers Entry, tel:<br />
028 9023 5986)<br />
Situated between Anne<br />
Street and High Street,<br />
this historic bar is well<br />
worth checking out.<br />
It is one of the oldest<br />
bars in the city and<br />
they serve a mean pint<br />
of Guinness. The food<br />
is excellent value and<br />
extremely tasty.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Auntie Annie’s (44<br />
Dublin Road, tel: 028<br />
9050 1660) As well as<br />
being a bit of a student<br />
hangout, this venue<br />
is a home from home<br />
for some of the best<br />
bands in the city. It has<br />
a great bar downstairs<br />
and fantastic live<br />
music upstairs. It tends<br />
to attract a lot of indie<br />
bands but expect to<br />
hear any type of music.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Menagerie Bar<br />
(130 University St,<br />
tel: 028 9023 5678)<br />
Although it doesn’t<br />
look like much from<br />
outside, The Menagerie<br />
is one of the best latenight<br />
venues in town.<br />
Over the years, it has<br />
played host to some<br />
of the most interesting<br />
musical happenings<br />
in Belfast.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Miss<br />
Moran’s, a specialist<br />
tobacconist shop, is<br />
well worth visiting<br />
even if you aren’t a<br />
smoker. She sells<br />
everything and<br />
anything to do with<br />
smoking and tobacco<br />
(6 Church Lane).<br />
SEE The fantastic<br />
Cathedral Quarter<br />
Arts Festival, runs<br />
from 3–13 May. Now<br />
in its 13th year, this<br />
year’s highlights<br />
include John Cale,<br />
Field Music and Alexei<br />
Sayle. All of the events<br />
take place in and<br />
around the Cathedral<br />
Quarter and are priced<br />
at under £10.<br />
GO The Titanic sank<br />
one hundred years<br />
ago this year, so now<br />
is a good time to visit<br />
the historic shipyards.<br />
While you’re in the<br />
area, check out the<br />
recently opened,<br />
£90million Titanic<br />
Belfast Visitor Centre<br />
as well as the dry<br />
dock where the ship<br />
was built.<br />
ESCAPE<br />
Londonderry,<br />
Northern Ireland’s<br />
second city, is around<br />
a 90-minute drive<br />
from Belfast and great<br />
for a day trip. It has a<br />
laidback atmosphere<br />
and the locals are very<br />
friendly. Take a stroll<br />
along the new Peace<br />
Bridge and a visit to<br />
the recently restored<br />
Guildhall.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
There are more pubs<br />
and restaurants per<br />
head of population in<br />
Belfast than there are<br />
in the whole of Finland.<br />
Chris Sherry/<br />
Ulster Tatler<br />
Berlin<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Barcelona, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Bristol,<br />
Brussels, Budapest,<br />
Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />
Corfu, Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Mykonos,<br />
Naples, Nice, Olbia,<br />
Paris (ORY), Pisa,<br />
Rhodes, Rome,<br />
Split, Tenerife,<br />
Thessaloniki, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Express route<br />
SXF1 runs to<br />
Berlin Südkreuz.<br />
Tickets: €6.<br />
Catch the S-Bahn<br />
or the Airport<br />
Express. Tickets: €3.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Primo Maggio (10<br />
Graefestrasse, tel:<br />
030 6165 0861)<br />
Excellent little Italian<br />
café named after<br />
Berlin’s famous May<br />
Day demonstrations.<br />
It serves homemade<br />
focaccia and all sorts<br />
of pasta, plus some<br />
really great coff ees.<br />
UP TO €30 Tipica<br />
(19 Rosenstrasse,<br />
tel: 030 2509 9440)<br />
The past few years<br />
have seen a wave of<br />
“authentic” Mexican<br />
snack bars and<br />
restaurants open up.<br />
Tipica is one of the<br />
more upscale ones,<br />
but – despite its<br />
designer vibe – the<br />
tacos are very much<br />
the real deal.<br />
UP TO €50 HBC<br />
Restaurant (9 Karl-<br />
Liebknecht-Strasse,<br />
tel: 030 2434 2920)<br />
Situated in the HBC<br />
nightlife cultural space,<br />
this trendy restaurant<br />
isn’t very visible from<br />
the street. Walk up the<br />
wide concrete stairs,<br />
through the smoky bar<br />
into a cosy-modern<br />
eatery that serves<br />
modern continental-<br />
French cuisine and<br />
some great wines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Reinstoff (26C<br />
Schlegelstrasse, tel:<br />
030 3088 1214) The<br />
name means “pure<br />
material” and that’s<br />
what you get here:<br />
multi-course menus of<br />
ultra-aesthetic, avantgarde<br />
cuisine largely<br />
sourced from local,<br />
organic ingredients.<br />
Michelin just awarded<br />
the restaurant its<br />
second star.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Freischwimmer (2 Vor<br />
dem Schlesischen
Discover the wild<br />
side of Berlin.<br />
BLUE MAN GROUP is a spectacular show:<br />
It is fun, witty, intelligent and surprises you<br />
with creativity, comedy and great music.<br />
This internationally unique mix of a rousing<br />
concert atmosphere, high-class comedy<br />
and amazing effects is something you will<br />
never have experienced before. Once BLUE<br />
MAN GROUP has gotten under your skin,<br />
it will never leave your head! It is staged<br />
in Berlin, at the Stage BLUEMAX Theater,<br />
Potsdamer Platz. The combination of two<br />
languages within one show, German and<br />
English, is a world-fi rst and makes it an absolute<br />
must for Berlin visitors from all over<br />
the world.<br />
Challenge Newitts<br />
www.bluemangroup.de/international Show-Tickets: +49 (0) 18 05 / 44 44<br />
€ 0.14/min. calling from a German landline. Mobile phone charges max. € 0.42/min.<br />
“We`ll beat the best”<br />
Promotion Code:<br />
eJ<strong>may</strong><br />
Europe’s largest online<br />
sports equipment shop<br />
BERLIN BOSTON CHICAGO LAS VEGAS NEW YORK ORLANDO TOKYO
112 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Berlin<br />
Germany<br />
Tor) A narrow, canalside<br />
patio café that<br />
almost feels like it’s<br />
fl oating on the water,<br />
this place is perfect for<br />
sipping drinks on<br />
a warm afternoon.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Bi Nuu (U-Bbhf<br />
Schlesisches Tor)<br />
Named after a<br />
record by German<br />
1980s’ band Ideal,<br />
the new Bi Nuu club<br />
is handily located in<br />
the Schlesisches Tor<br />
underground station<br />
in a former punk and<br />
goth venue. The club’s<br />
live booking has been<br />
updated to match the<br />
indie hipster zeitgeist.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Luzia (34<br />
Oranienstrasse) Right<br />
on Kreuzberg’s main<br />
strip, the alwaysheaving<br />
Luzia bar is<br />
emblematic of the<br />
neighbourhood’s<br />
trendiness. Expect<br />
fi ne DJs and some<br />
sexy locals.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The<br />
streets around<br />
Boxhagenerplatz in<br />
Friedrichshain are<br />
brimming with small,<br />
independent fashion<br />
shops fl ogging the<br />
creations of local<br />
designers – like XYZ<br />
Berlin (10 Gabriel-<br />
Marx-Strasse) and<br />
T-shirt label Yackfou<br />
(21 Gabriel-Marx-<br />
Strasse). Perfect for a<br />
Saturday gander.<br />
SEE The closest<br />
Berlin gets to Rio’s<br />
carnival is the annual<br />
Carnival of Cultures,<br />
a massive, three-day<br />
street party (25-28<br />
May) with live music,<br />
great food and a<br />
multicultural parade<br />
on 27 May (karnevalberlin.de).<br />
GO The area around<br />
Hackescher Markt<br />
has developed into<br />
shopping central,<br />
but interesting sights<br />
remain, such as the<br />
Haus Schwarzenberg<br />
(at 39 Rosenthaler<br />
Strasse), home to a<br />
slew of alternative<br />
cultural projects<br />
such as the Dead<br />
Chickens Monster<br />
Cabinet – a cellar<br />
exhibition of unusual<br />
mechanised creatures<br />
(deadchickens.de).<br />
ESCAPE No<br />
springtime visit to<br />
Berlin is complete<br />
without a day trip<br />
to neighbouring<br />
Potsdam with its<br />
majestic palaces and<br />
parks. Slightly off the<br />
main tourist track<br />
is the Neuer Garten<br />
(New Garden), good<br />
for a lakeside walk and<br />
tea at the Cecilienhof<br />
(site of the 1945<br />
Potsdam Conference<br />
at which the Allies<br />
determined the fate of<br />
post-war Germany).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Despite being the<br />
capital of Europe’s<br />
strongest economy,<br />
Berlin has a higher<br />
unemployment rate<br />
(approximately 13 per<br />
cent) than all other<br />
German cities.<br />
Exberliner.com<br />
Biarritz<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
The STAB runs<br />
hourly from<br />
7.30am–7.30pm.<br />
Tickets: €1.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Chez<br />
ta Mere (12 Rue du<br />
Port-Vieux, tel: 05<br />
5924 7105) Enjoy<br />
hearty, wholesome<br />
home-cooking in<br />
this romantic little<br />
restaurant. The<br />
menu changes daily<br />
according to what’s<br />
been pulled off the<br />
boats, but fi sh is always<br />
the star of the show.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Chez<br />
Philippe (30 Avenue<br />
du Lac Marion, tel: 05<br />
5923 1312) Philippe is a<br />
prizewinning chef who<br />
prepares his food on<br />
an open fi re in front of<br />
his clients. Specialities<br />
include roast pork<br />
and sea bass. Leave<br />
room for dessert – the<br />
chocolate delicacies<br />
are divine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Irish<br />
Pub (10 Avenue Victor<br />
Hugo, tel: 05 5924<br />
6606) A busy Irish<br />
pub in the city centre.<br />
Come to enjoy the<br />
Guinness, imported<br />
beer, party atmosphere<br />
and sporting events on<br />
the big screen, which<br />
all the locals crowd<br />
around when their<br />
team’s playing.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Carré Coast (21<br />
Avenue Edouard VII,<br />
tel: 05 5924 6464)<br />
This is a sleek and<br />
trendy nightclub<br />
overlooking the beach.<br />
After Le Carré closes<br />
in the early hours, you<br />
can watch the sunrise<br />
from Grande Plage.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Go to the<br />
seventh edition of<br />
Street Arts on 17-20<br />
May. The Festival des<br />
Arts de la Rue off ers a<br />
programme of street<br />
theatre, acrobats,<br />
dance, clowns,<br />
jugglers, buskers and<br />
more. Performances<br />
take place in every<br />
street, square and<br />
neighbourhood<br />
around the city.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Few people know that<br />
the Russian composer<br />
Igor Stravinsky lived<br />
in Biarritz between<br />
1921 and 1924.<br />
There is a memorial<br />
plaque dedicated to<br />
Stravinsky in the city.<br />
Steve Bilsborough<br />
Bilbao<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Ibiza, Geneva,<br />
London (STN), Madrid,<br />
Manchester, Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Buses leave every<br />
30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €1.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ortua<br />
(18 Alameda de<br />
Mazarredo, tel: 94<br />
424 5102) A simple<br />
restaurant with no<br />
elaborate trimmings,<br />
just tasty, freshly<br />
cooked vegetarian<br />
lunches.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Zero (3 Calle de<br />
Henao, tel: 94 435<br />
4116) This exclusive<br />
restaurant, serving<br />
the best-quality<br />
Basque cuisine, only<br />
opens on Sundays.<br />
Book a table to avoid<br />
disappointment.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Gambrinus (23 Calle<br />
Juan de Ajuriaguerra,<br />
tel: 94 415 0564) An<br />
English-style pub for<br />
those who prefer a<br />
pint of beer to a glass<br />
of Rioja. Plenty of<br />
good wines, too, not<br />
to mention a friendly<br />
atmosphere and<br />
convenient central<br />
location.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
K2 (10 Calle Somera,<br />
tel: 94 416 3450)<br />
A big pub in the old<br />
part of the city. Open<br />
almost around the<br />
clock with a sandwich<br />
menu of more than<br />
90 combinations.<br />
K2 is popular with<br />
young people – and<br />
anyone interested in<br />
mountains!<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE An adaptation<br />
of Rossini’s great<br />
opera William Tell is<br />
showing for two days<br />
only (12–13 May)<br />
at the emblematic<br />
Arriaga Theatre.<br />
Tickets €13 for adults<br />
(teatroarriaga.com).<br />
Katherine Bilsborough<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Grown along the<br />
Basque coastline,<br />
the latest addition to<br />
local cuisine is the<br />
tiny teardrop pea,<br />
famous for being the<br />
most expensive pea<br />
in the world (selling at<br />
around €200 a kilo).
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114 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Bodrum<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY TRY<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs 85TRY.<br />
TAXI<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Café<br />
Cafen (178A Neyzen<br />
Tevfi k Caddesi, tel:<br />
0252 316 3930)<br />
This café’s motto<br />
is “Whenever you<br />
like..” and it’s a great<br />
place to go any time<br />
of day. Try a Turkish<br />
breakfast platter<br />
with local meats<br />
and cheeses,<br />
eggs, olives and<br />
homemade jams.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Erenler Sofrasi<br />
(Yarbasan Evleri,<br />
Ortakent, tel: 0532<br />
248 2479) It’s hard<br />
to beat Erenler<br />
Sofrasi for an<br />
authentic taste of<br />
the Aegean. The<br />
menu changes<br />
constantly, depending<br />
on what’s in season.<br />
The setting, in a<br />
village<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Making<br />
Waves<br />
All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />
in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />
offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />
Achtung Ac Acht ht httun un ung g Baby! Ba Baby by by!<br />
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of stone cottages,<br />
is as sublime as<br />
the food.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
del Mar (164–166<br />
Cumhuriyet Caddesi,<br />
tel: 0252 316<br />
7110) Head for this<br />
beachfront terrace<br />
bar, complete with<br />
bean bags, for a<br />
frozen cocktail. It’s<br />
a cool spot to watch<br />
the sunset.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Evgenia Meyhane<br />
(Çarsı Sokak, Manavlar<br />
Arkası 5, tel: 0533<br />
3055419) A meyhane<br />
is a traditional Turkish<br />
restaurant-cum-bar<br />
with live music.<br />
Evgenia Meyhane<br />
started a trend in<br />
Bodrum, with other<br />
establisments opening<br />
nearby to create<br />
a whole street of<br />
meyhanes where<br />
the party goes<br />
on until late.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Visit Bodrum’s<br />
Marina to see how<br />
Turkey’s other half live.<br />
This is the place to<br />
see and be seen while<br />
shopping in designer<br />
boutiques or sipping<br />
a coff ee or a cocktail<br />
in a swanky bar.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bodrum’s waterfront<br />
road is named after<br />
Neyzen Tevfi k, one<br />
of Turkey’s favourite<br />
writers. This poet and<br />
fl ute-player is one<br />
of the town’s most<br />
famous sons.<br />
Paul Bartlett<br />
Bologna<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20<br />
The Aerobus<br />
runs from 6am<br />
to midnight. Tickets:<br />
€6 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Biagi<br />
(9A Via Savenella,<br />
tel: 051 4070049)<br />
Now occupying this<br />
atmospheric premises<br />
in the centre of town,<br />
Biagi fi rst opened in the<br />
outskirts of Bologna in<br />
the 1930s. Come for<br />
traditional Bolognese<br />
fare and good wine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Rodrigo (2H Via<br />
della Zecca, tel: 051<br />
220445) A refi ned<br />
environment and<br />
delicious food continue<br />
to attract politicians,<br />
actors and other<br />
personalities after<br />
more than 60 years<br />
in business. Choose<br />
from exquisite fi sh,<br />
homemade pasta and<br />
hearty dishes such<br />
as wild-boar fi llet in<br />
a red-wine sauce.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Camera<br />
a Sud (5 Via Valdonica,<br />
tel: 051 0951448) Set<br />
in Bologna’s former<br />
ghetto, right in the<br />
centre of town, this<br />
stylish yet informal<br />
wine-bar hosts<br />
frequent and<br />
top-quality<br />
photo exhibitions.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Originating in<br />
the middle of the 13th<br />
century, Ferrara’s Palio<br />
horserace is the oldest<br />
of its kind in the world.<br />
Costume events are<br />
held each weekend in<br />
May, culminating in<br />
the exciting race<br />
between city districts<br />
on Sunday 27 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Saint Dominic, founder<br />
of one of the world’s<br />
most important<br />
monastic orders, the<br />
Dominicans, is buried<br />
in Bologna’s striking<br />
San Domenico church.<br />
Sarah Lane<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bobby’s Pub (103<br />
Via Murri, tel: 328<br />
6872173) With<br />
ten beers on tap,<br />
countless cocktails<br />
and a great selection<br />
of wines, this wellestablished<br />
pub has<br />
recently had a facelift.<br />
Bordeaux<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Bristol, Geneva,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />
(MXP), Nice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
A bus service<br />
runs to Place des<br />
Quinconces every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.40<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le Puy<br />
Paulin (5 Rue Louis<br />
Combes, tel: 05 5681<br />
8552) Located on a<br />
quiet square between<br />
the main shopping<br />
streets, this typical<br />
brasserie is a good<br />
spot for a quick lunch.<br />
Aim for a seat on the<br />
terrace or downstairs.<br />
For best value, try the<br />
plat du jour.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Co(o)rniche (46<br />
Boulevard Louis<br />
Gaume, tel: 05 5622<br />
7211) Views from this<br />
Philippe Starckdesigned<br />
restaurant<br />
If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />
and cannot take it with you, visit<br />
traveller.‰.com<br />
.com<br />
overlooking the Bassin<br />
d’Arcachon are like<br />
holiday postcards. It’s<br />
worth the hour’s drive<br />
from Bordeaux for<br />
the location and the<br />
seafood menu.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
L’Oenolimit<br />
(2 Rue des Ayres,<br />
tel: 05 5788 3419)<br />
Start or end your<br />
evening at this<br />
welcoming wine bar.<br />
Choose from the<br />
bottles from Bordeaux<br />
and beyond on the<br />
shelves, or try one<br />
of the smaller wine<br />
“tubes”.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
iBoat (1 Quai Armand<br />
Lalande, tel: 05 5610<br />
4823) This former<br />
ferry has established<br />
itself as a centre for<br />
arts and live-music.<br />
Concerts feature<br />
established and<br />
up-and-coming French<br />
and international<br />
artists, while club<br />
nights are held<br />
Thursday to Saturday.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Head to the<br />
Week-end des Grands<br />
Crus (12–13 May) for<br />
the opportunity to<br />
taste the acclaimed<br />
2009 vintages from<br />
over 100 Bordeaux<br />
châteaux, presented<br />
by the winemakers<br />
(ugcb.net).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
With over 60,000<br />
students, the<br />
Bordeaux campus is<br />
the largest in France.<br />
Caroline Matthews
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Brest<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Buses stop<br />
at Saint Luc<br />
and the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €4.60 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le<br />
Potager de Meme<br />
(44 Rue de Lyon,<br />
tel: 09 5144 1478)<br />
Traditional home<br />
cooking using<br />
organic ingredients<br />
from the restaurant’s<br />
kitchen garden is<br />
what visitors should<br />
expect here. The<br />
atmosphere is<br />
arty-bohemian and<br />
there’s always a<br />
vegetarian option.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Maison de l’Océan<br />
(2 Quai de la Douane,<br />
tel: 02 9880 4484)<br />
The menu changes<br />
according to the<br />
fi shing boats’ catch,<br />
so it’s always fresh.<br />
The fi sh soup and<br />
the crab come highly<br />
Michael<br />
before<br />
treatment<br />
recommended; there<br />
are also good meat<br />
dishes and a great<br />
selection of desserts.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Blind<br />
Piper (95 Rue Siam,<br />
tel: 02 9880 3539)<br />
A great place for an<br />
early evening beer.<br />
Stand at the bar and<br />
join in the chit-chat<br />
or grab a booth if<br />
you want to relax<br />
and chill out. They<br />
also have a killer<br />
selection of shooters.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Baobab (2 Rue du<br />
Chateau, tel: 02 9880<br />
1773) A great place<br />
to warm up over a tipunch<br />
(little punch)<br />
or a cocktail. The<br />
décor is cheering, the<br />
welcome is always<br />
friendly and the<br />
music will take you<br />
to the Caribbean<br />
even while sitting by<br />
the Celtic Sea.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Forum<br />
des Langues takes<br />
place on 26 May<br />
on the Place de la<br />
Liberté. Whether<br />
you are interested<br />
in learning, teaching<br />
or practising a<br />
language, this is<br />
the place to go<br />
(more info from<br />
brestetvous.fr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Rue St Malo<br />
was the only street<br />
in central Brest<br />
which wasn’t totally<br />
destroyed during<br />
World War Two.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Brindisi<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
STP buses leave<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €0.80.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Braceria Da Soleti<br />
(115 Via Brindisi,<br />
Cisternino, tel: 073<br />
65082) Cisternino is<br />
famous for its meat,<br />
and this restaurant<br />
shows you why. Try<br />
not to eat too much<br />
antipasti because the<br />
main courses are huge.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Il Giardino (14–18<br />
Via Tarantini, tel: 0831<br />
22 40 26) On a warm<br />
evening, you can sit<br />
in the garden in a<br />
refi ned and elegant<br />
setting and peruse<br />
the diverse menu. The<br />
orechiette con funghi<br />
e vongole (clam and<br />
mushroom pasta) is<br />
particularly good.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caff è<br />
Cavour (5 Corso<br />
Cavour, Ostuni, tel:<br />
0831 301 709) This is<br />
a classy bar upstairs<br />
and a luxury dining<br />
cave downstairs.<br />
Refi ned, elegant,<br />
warm and inviting,<br />
with excellent snacks<br />
and meals on off er.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Stone’s Café (Via<br />
Tevere, Torre Santa<br />
Sabina) A good<br />
bar-restaurant that<br />
gets lively on the<br />
weekends. DJs play<br />
soul and funky house<br />
late into the night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO A walk around<br />
the Old Town will off er<br />
up many historical<br />
places of interest.<br />
Once a major military<br />
and ecclesiastical<br />
centre, there are many<br />
churches, shrines and<br />
Norman buildings to<br />
be found. Pop in to the<br />
Museo Archeologico<br />
Provinciale Ribezzo,<br />
which will help you<br />
understand the<br />
architecture. With<br />
exhibits dating back<br />
to the early Greek<br />
settlers, there is plenty<br />
to see that explains<br />
Brindisi’s fascinating<br />
origins and history<br />
(8 Piazza del Duomo).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Along the coast<br />
between Brindisi and<br />
Bari are 15th-century<br />
watchtowers that<br />
used to guard against<br />
invaders. Follow the<br />
brown signposts: they<br />
indicate the towers’<br />
locations, often next<br />
to nice beaches.<br />
Max Keep<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 115<br />
Bristol<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bodrum,<br />
Bordeaux, Corfu,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Cyprus (Paphos),<br />
Dalaman, Edinburgh,<br />
Faro, Fuerteventura,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Grenoble, Ibiza,<br />
Innsbruck, Inverness,<br />
Krakow, La Rochelle,<br />
Lisbon, Lyon, Madeira,<br />
Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Marseille,<br />
Menorca, Murcia,<br />
Naples, Newcastle,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Paris<br />
(CDG), Pisa, Prague,<br />
Rome, Salzburg, Split,<br />
Tenerife, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £30.<br />
The Bristol<br />
Airport Flyer<br />
links to the city centre<br />
daily between 02.30<br />
and 00.45. Tickets: £7.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Za Za<br />
Bazaar (Cannon<br />
Road, tel: 01179 220<br />
330) Fixed-price<br />
all-you-can-eat buff et<br />
dining off ers a variety<br />
of global cuisine in a<br />
colourful and vibrant<br />
atmosphere. Za Za<br />
Bazaar is inspired by<br />
the spirit and buzz of<br />
Asia’s night markets.<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Spot Restaurant<br />
(Holiday Inn City<br />
Centre, Bond Street,<br />
tel: 0117 924 5000)<br />
The smart Spot off ers<br />
a classic menu. Food<br />
is sourced locally to<br />
enhance the menu’s<br />
regional fl avours.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Riverstation (The<br />
Grove, tel: 0117 914<br />
4434) An awardwinning<br />
conversion of<br />
a former police station,<br />
with stunning views of<br />
the old docks. Simple<br />
menus are available all<br />
day in the Deli Bar. The<br />
Riverstation’s kitchen<br />
won Menu of the Year<br />
in its fi rst year and<br />
continues to go from<br />
strength to strength.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Glass<br />
Boat (Welsh Back,<br />
Old City, tel: 0117<br />
929 0704) A lovingly<br />
THE BRISTOL<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Neighboured by<br />
the Old Vic and the<br />
cathedral, this hotel<br />
is only a stroll away<br />
from Brunel’s SS<br />
Great Britain.<br />
From €104, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
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Sam and Wendy see each other briefly at Luton Airport and are mutually<br />
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ways. (Sound familiar?)<br />
...and creates a<br />
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the circumstances of<br />
how they met.<br />
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@ www.blewmychance.com<br />
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flights still thinking of<br />
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having said something<br />
and day dream about<br />
what if?<br />
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Wendy is told about blewmychance.com by her friend Sally, and<br />
immediately searches for “Luton Airport”. To her delight, Wendy finds the<br />
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over the moon hear from her. They arrange to meet …<br />
www.blewmychance.com<br />
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Sam hears about<br />
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during his flight...<br />
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More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
converted barge<br />
located on the water<br />
of the Harbourside<br />
makes the Glass Boat<br />
one of Bristol’s premier<br />
venues for dining. The<br />
restaurant works with<br />
the best local suppliers<br />
to create simple,<br />
classic dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Watershed Media<br />
Centre (1 Canon’s<br />
Road, Harbourside, tel:<br />
0117 927 6444) For a<br />
laid-back evening of<br />
independent moviewatching<br />
and winesipping<br />
head to The<br />
Watershed. There’s a<br />
little terrace on which<br />
to enjoy a drink while<br />
watching the sun go<br />
down over the water.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Thekla (The Grove,<br />
East Mud Dock, tel:<br />
0117 929 3301) The<br />
Thekla is Bristol’s<br />
only music venue and<br />
nightclub on a boat,<br />
and it plays host to the<br />
best of the city’s weekly<br />
club nights. National<br />
and international live<br />
acts also take to the<br />
stage each week.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Lanes Bristol<br />
(22 Nelson Street,<br />
tel: 0117 325 1979)<br />
Off ering karaoke,<br />
bowling, dining,<br />
music and dancing all<br />
under one roof, The<br />
Lanes even features<br />
a cocktail bar made<br />
from bowling-lane<br />
wood.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP While away<br />
some hours in the<br />
Old City, with its<br />
cobbled streets and<br />
historic lanes. Here,<br />
St Nicholas Market<br />
teems with stalls<br />
selling jewellery<br />
and art, ethnic food<br />
and antiques: a real<br />
eclectic mix of goods.<br />
SEE A spectacular<br />
new production of<br />
Andrew Lloyd Webber’s<br />
The Phantom Of The<br />
Opera arrives at The<br />
Bristol Hippodrome<br />
this month. The show,<br />
which starts on 22<br />
May, has won over<br />
60 major theatre<br />
awards.<br />
GO Within walking<br />
distance of the city<br />
centre is North Street<br />
in Bedminster, popular<br />
with locals and visitors<br />
alike who enjoy<br />
unwinding in the many<br />
cafés, bars, shops<br />
and the well-known<br />
Tobacco Factory<br />
theatre, which has<br />
regular live music.<br />
ESCAPE<br />
A 30-minute drive east<br />
of the city, Westonbirt,<br />
is the National<br />
Arboretum, home<br />
to 3,000 diff erent<br />
species of trees and<br />
more than 16,000<br />
individual plants.<br />
Spring is one of the<br />
fi nest times of the<br />
year to visit.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The pirate Captain<br />
Blackbeard once had<br />
a hideaway under<br />
St Mary Redcliff e<br />
Church. His birthplace<br />
and childhood home<br />
still stands on<br />
Bristol’s harbourside.<br />
Anna Slade<br />
Brussels<br />
Belgium<br />
DIALLING CODE +32<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Geneva,<br />
Liverpool, Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Nice, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €45.<br />
Trains depart<br />
every 15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €5 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 El Vergel<br />
(39 Rue du Trône, tel:<br />
02 502 6930) This café<br />
is popular with workers<br />
at the government<br />
ministries for its tasty<br />
Latin American and<br />
Mediterranean lunches<br />
and takeaways. The<br />
plat du jour – served in<br />
seriously large portions<br />
– is €10 .<br />
UP TO €30 Ma<br />
Folle de Soeur (53<br />
Chaussée de Charleroi,<br />
tel: 02 538 2239) A<br />
cosy restaurant with<br />
a range of European<br />
cuisine. Try the tapas<br />
fi nger food or the<br />
entrecôte à la Toscana<br />
infused with the<br />
fl avours of rocket and<br />
sun-dried tomatoes.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Jacques (44, Quai<br />
aux Briques, tel: 02<br />
513 2762) One of<br />
Brussels’ top fi sh<br />
restaurants is set<br />
in Ste Catherine<br />
on the old quays of<br />
the former port of<br />
Brussels. The simple<br />
interior, with tables<br />
overlooking the wide<br />
square, belies the<br />
quality of the cuisine.<br />
Try the delicious<br />
marinated herring<br />
fi lets or the very<br />
traditional Anguilles au<br />
Vert – eels served in a<br />
sorrel-based sauce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
L’Ecailler du Palais<br />
Royal (18 Rue<br />
Bodenbroek, tel: 02<br />
512 8751) This is a<br />
top-class gastronomic<br />
restaurant with a<br />
relaxed ambience in<br />
the heart of Sablon.<br />
Linger over the entrée<br />
of delicate salmon<br />
mousse, the lobster<br />
ravioli with a subtle<br />
curry sauce and the<br />
lengthy wine list.<br />
THE DOMINICAN<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Book the Jacque-<br />
Louis David Suite at<br />
this historic hotel and<br />
stay where the artist<br />
lived and painted<br />
in the 19th century.<br />
From €130, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 117<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cirio<br />
(18 Rue de la Bourse,<br />
tel: 02 512 1395) Full<br />
of character – and<br />
characters – this bar,<br />
with its gilt chandeliers,<br />
comfortable velvet<br />
armchairs, whiteaproned<br />
waiters and<br />
long mahogany bar,<br />
has been a popular<br />
local for over a<br />
hundred years. One of<br />
Jacque Brel’s favourite<br />
watering holes, it<br />
serves a wide range<br />
of beers, champagne<br />
and wine.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Botanique (236 Rue<br />
Royale, tel: 02 218<br />
3732) This cultural<br />
centre, set in the<br />
former Botanical<br />
Gardens, is a great<br />
venue to catch all the<br />
latest groups in the<br />
Belgian capital as<br />
well as big European<br />
bands. All tastes from<br />
electro to house and<br />
rock are catered for.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
You (18 Rue<br />
Duquesnoy, tel: 02<br />
639 1400) On most<br />
nights, this centrally<br />
located club is packed,<br />
as the city’s youth<br />
rave to house music<br />
until late. Sunday<br />
night is gay night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP One of<br />
the classiest and<br />
most-respected<br />
pastry makers and<br />
chocolatiers of<br />
Belgium is Wittamer.<br />
In the cosy shop, with<br />
its café above, you can<br />
take your time over<br />
the most delicious<br />
creations, including<br />
both edible and very<br />
drinkable smooth,<br />
dark chocolate (12<br />
Place du Grand<br />
Sablon).<br />
SEE The Queen<br />
Elizabeth International<br />
Musical festival,<br />
Belgium’s prestigious<br />
international<br />
competition for young<br />
classical musicians,<br />
takes place at a<br />
variety of locations<br />
throughout the Belgian<br />
capital (cmireb.be,<br />
until 26 May).<br />
GO Wander around<br />
the Sablon area of<br />
central Brussels, which<br />
has an incredible<br />
range of art galleries,<br />
restaurants and<br />
antique shops all within<br />
a short distance of<br />
each other in a series<br />
of pretty squares and<br />
narrow cobbled streets.<br />
ESCAPE At<br />
Ronquières, the<br />
inclined plane is an<br />
extraordinary feat of<br />
engineering. It replaced<br />
an arduous, 14-lock,<br />
70m climb on the<br />
Brussels-Charleroi<br />
canal with a 1.5km<br />
railway. Boat trips and<br />
organised tours are<br />
available. It takes 45<br />
minutes by train to<br />
Braine-le- Comte (voies<br />
deau.hainaut.be).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The imposing Royal<br />
Palace of Brussels,<br />
built in a similar<br />
neoclassical style to<br />
Buckingham Palace,<br />
has a façade 50 per<br />
cent longer than its<br />
British equivalent.<br />
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118 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Budapest<br />
Hungary<br />
DIALLING CODE +36<br />
CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Dortmund,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
HUF5,100–HUF5,400.<br />
Trains leave<br />
Terminal 1 for<br />
Western station.<br />
Tickets: HUF455.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Ezüstponty Vendégl<br />
(96 Németvölgyi Ut,<br />
XII, tel: 319 1632) Head<br />
into Buda to fi nd this<br />
traditional restaurant,<br />
with a lovely shaded<br />
patio (and large play<br />
space for the kids). The<br />
speciality here is fi sh,<br />
but the menu off ers all<br />
sorts of Hungarian fare<br />
for reasonable prices.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Magyar 21 (21 Fortuna<br />
Utca, tel: 202 2113)<br />
The best choice for<br />
refuelling in the castle.<br />
All things Hungarian<br />
are the focus here,<br />
from home-style fruit<br />
syrups and pálinka<br />
(brandy) to deliciously<br />
modern versions of<br />
Hungarian classics.<br />
Tradition doesn’t mean<br />
folksy here: the décor<br />
is sleek and modern.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Csendes<br />
Társ (18 Magyar Utca)<br />
Located by Károlyi<br />
Kert, the city’s most<br />
beautiful enclosed<br />
park, Csendes Társ<br />
adds tables next to<br />
the park during the<br />
summer. Come for a<br />
glass of wine, coff ee<br />
or lemonade.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Szimpla Kert (14<br />
Kazinczy Utca, VII)<br />
One of the city’s<br />
most popular “ruin”<br />
bars, this alternative<br />
venue is in the shell<br />
of a classic Budapest<br />
apartment-house. But<br />
it’s more than a pub<br />
– it also has a cinema,<br />
exhibition area and<br />
hosts cultural events.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Children will love<br />
spending an afternoon<br />
at Mini City, an<br />
interactive city scaled<br />
down to children’s<br />
size. The place allows<br />
kids to create their<br />
own world as doctors,<br />
fi remen, newscasters<br />
or shopkeepers<br />
(1 Nyugati tér, VI).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Hungary no longer<br />
celebrates May<br />
Day with military<br />
processions and odes<br />
to the worker in front<br />
of oversized statues<br />
of dictators.<br />
Carolyn Bánfalvi<br />
Cagliari<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Geneva,<br />
London (STN), Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
ARST buses<br />
to the city<br />
centre leave every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €5.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Su<br />
Cumbidu (15 Via<br />
Napoli, tel: 070 660<br />
017) This is the place<br />
to go for authentic<br />
Sardinian food.<br />
The great-value set<br />
menus are based on<br />
pasta, vegetables<br />
and meat dishes.<br />
Just choose the<br />
number of courses<br />
you want – it’s real<br />
Italy where fi vecourse<br />
meals are<br />
de riguer.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Tao<br />
(48 Via Sonnino,<br />
tel: 070 857 7572)<br />
Modern and elegant<br />
Japanese restaurant<br />
with very attentive<br />
service and superb<br />
cuisine that off ers<br />
much more than<br />
Sitting S comfortably?<br />
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
the usual sushi and<br />
sashimi. Delicious<br />
starters, fantastic<br />
soups and even some<br />
meat dishes: all<br />
absolutely fresh and<br />
prepared with care<br />
and real skill.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Roma (111 Via Roma,<br />
tel: 070 653 399)<br />
Enjoy an espresso in<br />
Café Roma right in<br />
front of the port – in<br />
this classic Italian<br />
café you can sit in<br />
the shade under the<br />
arcades and watch<br />
the people going by.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Oblomow (73 Corso<br />
Vittorio Emanuele)<br />
Right in the lively<br />
centre of Cagliari,<br />
Oblomow is a popular<br />
meeting spot for<br />
those who like to stay<br />
out and party with the<br />
best of them. Open<br />
till late in the warm<br />
months.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO If you want to<br />
work on your tan,<br />
head out to Cagliari’s<br />
small Calamosca<br />
beach. It’s protected<br />
from the winds,<br />
so it’s possible to<br />
sunbathe even very<br />
early in the year.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
“Lost between<br />
Europe and Africa”,<br />
was the description<br />
DH Lawrence once<br />
gave of Cagliari.<br />
Indeed, the city of<br />
Tunis is closer than<br />
Rome or Naples.<br />
Dario Henke<br />
Casablanca<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about MAD250.<br />
Trains depart<br />
every hour<br />
to Casa Voyageur.<br />
Tickets: MAD60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Lina’s<br />
Beautiful Sandwich<br />
(8 Rue Ibrahim Hafi d,<br />
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TAXI<br />
OLIVE SOUKS<br />
GO Through a<br />
medieval archway<br />
in Habbous, fi nd<br />
yourself surrounded<br />
by vat upon vat of<br />
colourful, delicious<br />
homegrown olives<br />
of a dozen varieties.<br />
Tasting encouraged.<br />
Gautier, tel: 0522<br />
265 426) Want a light<br />
lunch but tired of fast<br />
food? Lina’s really<br />
does have beautiful<br />
sandwiches. Order a<br />
fancy-named creation<br />
or create your own.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Fibule (Boulevard de<br />
la Corniche, Ain Dïab,<br />
tel: 0522 360 641)<br />
Perched on the rocks<br />
next to the lighthouse,<br />
La Fibule invites you to<br />
enjoy fi ne Moroccan<br />
cuisine in one of its<br />
many peaceful and<br />
intimate dining rooms.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Hotel<br />
Bellerive (38<br />
Boulevard de la<br />
Corniche) Looking<br />
for a place to watch<br />
the sunset over the<br />
Atlantic without<br />
having to spend a<br />
fortune? This low-key<br />
hotel has a great patio<br />
in the garden: perfect<br />
for drinks and nibbles.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
B-Rock (55 Boulevard<br />
de la Corniche, tel:<br />
0522 362 626) This<br />
popular drinking and<br />
dancing establishment<br />
with friendly, low-key<br />
clientele and good<br />
nightly live music is<br />
a great place to rock<br />
your socks off !<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Casablanca and Rabat<br />
welcome more than<br />
half of all immigrants<br />
to Morocco. Of these,<br />
three main groups are<br />
visible: the Chinese,<br />
Subsaharans and<br />
the French.<br />
Cara Warkentin
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Catania<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW), Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 457<br />
leaves every 20<br />
minutes stopping in<br />
the centre. Tickets:<br />
€1.50 on board.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Trattoria Aldo<br />
Di De Cento<br />
Concetta (2 Piazza<br />
Giuseppe Sciuti,<br />
tel: 095 311158) This<br />
restaurant is a must.<br />
Kind service and<br />
food of great quality.<br />
We recommend the<br />
fi sh and seafood<br />
dishes: astonishing!<br />
Restaurant open<br />
for lunch only.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante Al<br />
Gabbiano (128, Via<br />
Giordano Bruno, tel:<br />
095 537842) This<br />
famous restaurant<br />
is known in the<br />
city for its modern<br />
elaboration of the<br />
Sicilian traditional<br />
cuisine. Local<br />
ingredients only.<br />
Speciality: seafood<br />
risotto. This is where<br />
you’ll also fi nd the<br />
fi nest service if you<br />
fancy being treated.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Bar Sinatra<br />
(Via Giardini, tel:<br />
095213012) Typical<br />
Sicilian café. Have a<br />
seat and relax, while<br />
drinking Italian coff ee<br />
espresso or having a<br />
delicious homemade<br />
gelato. Speciality:<br />
Sicilian granita.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Il Cantiniere (153,<br />
Viale della Libertà,<br />
tel: 095532122) This<br />
is one of the biggest<br />
wine bars in Italy. It<br />
off ers thousands of<br />
diff erent types and<br />
qualities of wine.<br />
Food also available.<br />
Open 9–2am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Taormina is a<br />
treasure! Located<br />
between Mount Etna<br />
and the sea, it off ers<br />
great panoramas,<br />
an ancient Greek<br />
theatre, churches,<br />
palaces and a lot of<br />
shops. To get there,<br />
take a train from<br />
Catania and then a<br />
bus or a taxi to the<br />
centre of Taormina.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The University<br />
of Catania is the<br />
oldest and biggest<br />
university in Sicily. It<br />
was build in 1434 and<br />
today has more than<br />
60,000 students.<br />
Alessandro Di Maio<br />
Cologne<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi to Cologne<br />
costs €25 and €40<br />
to Bonn.<br />
S-bahn trains<br />
leave for Cologne<br />
every 20 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €2.50.<br />
For Bonn, the<br />
bus leaves every<br />
30 minutes to one<br />
hour. Tickets: €6.90.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
My Indigo (28<br />
Habsburgerring, tel:<br />
0221 2779 8881)<br />
Wholesome soups,<br />
curries, noodles and<br />
salads come with a<br />
side order of New Age<br />
cool at MyIndigo, and<br />
with prices around the<br />
€5.50 mark, fuelling<br />
up healthily won’t<br />
break the bank.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Gruber’s (32 Clever<br />
Strasse, tel: 0221 720<br />
2670) From bread with<br />
pumpkin-seed pesto<br />
to the likes of cod with<br />
bergamot cream and<br />
oysters, Gruber’s puts a<br />
highly creative spin on<br />
Austrian cooking – but<br />
there’s classic schnitzel<br />
and apple strudel on<br />
the menu too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Gedankengut (88<br />
Roonstrasse, tel:<br />
0221 2716 2977) With<br />
its mix-and-match<br />
furniture, cocktails, DJs<br />
and Tuesday comedy<br />
nights, Gedankengut is<br />
a versatile new addition<br />
to the city’s watering<br />
holes, complete with<br />
a full food menu.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Venus Celler (6<br />
Zülpicher Platz) It isn’t<br />
big and it’s certainly<br />
not fancy, but Venus<br />
Celler parties on<br />
later than just about<br />
any other club in the<br />
studenty Kwartier<br />
Lateng and that fact<br />
alone has made it<br />
something of a cult<br />
destination.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Theme-park fans<br />
should check out<br />
the thrills and spills<br />
of Phantasialand at<br />
Brühl on the city’s<br />
outskirts. It’s one of<br />
Germany’s best, with<br />
the fearsome Black<br />
Mamba rollercoaster<br />
(phantasialand.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Even iconic cars need<br />
servicing and, after<br />
20 years on the top<br />
of the Kölnisches<br />
Stadtmuseum, the<br />
winged Ford Fiesta<br />
is descending this<br />
spring for restoration.<br />
Neville Walker<br />
UNBEATABLE PRICES<br />
IF YOU FIND CHEAPER WE’LL REFUND<br />
DOUBLE THE DIFFERENCE * – GOOD LUCK!<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 119<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Denmark<br />
DIALLING CODE +45<br />
CURRENCY Krone (DKK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Geneva, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Madrid, Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about DKK220.<br />
Metro trains go<br />
to Nørreport<br />
station. Tickets:<br />
DKK34.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Ban<br />
Gaw (44 Halmtorvet,<br />
tel: 3325 4860) Many<br />
locals list this as<br />
their favourite Thai<br />
restaurant thanks to its<br />
no-frills atmosphere,<br />
friendly service, great<br />
prices and tasty<br />
authentic dishes,<br />
including a fabulous<br />
tom yum soup.<br />
UP TO €30 Café<br />
Petersborg (75<br />
Bredgade, tel: 3312<br />
5016) Open since<br />
1700, everything about<br />
this place is traditional<br />
Danish, from the cosy,<br />
old-fashioned interiors<br />
to the akvavit snaps.<br />
At lunch, choose from<br />
33 varieties of open<br />
sandwich and at dinner<br />
tuck into classics,<br />
including meatballs.<br />
UP TO €50 FAMO<br />
(3 Saxogade, tel:<br />
3323 2250) Head<br />
chef Fabbio Mazzon,<br />
previously of Michelinstar<br />
Italian restaurant<br />
Era Ora, off ers a<br />
four-course daily menu<br />
of rustic Italian food<br />
concocted from both<br />
Danish and Italian<br />
seasonal ingredients<br />
at this lovely, laidback<br />
restaurant in Vesterbro.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Orangeriet (13<br />
Kronprinsessegade,<br />
tel: 3311 1307) Located<br />
in one of the prettiest<br />
parks in Copenhagen,<br />
this light-fi lled, stylish<br />
restaurant is a tranquil<br />
spot for lunch or dinner.<br />
Chef Jasper Kure<br />
serves up generous<br />
and beautifully<br />
presented seasonal<br />
dishes, including many<br />
Danish classics such<br />
HOTEL KONG<br />
ARTHUR<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
The hotel’s view of<br />
the lakes and Helle<br />
Thorup Spa facilities<br />
make it a relaxing<br />
getaway on the<br />
border of town.<br />
From €201, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers<br />
great car rental deals. For your discounted<br />
price book at<br />
easyJet.com or visit<br />
the Europcar desk.<br />
* Terms & conditions apply.
120 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Denmark<br />
as open sandwiches<br />
at lunch. The mussels<br />
with fennel fl akes are<br />
delicious on the set<br />
dinner menu .<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Christian<br />
5 (19 Nyhavn, tel: 3332<br />
0999) Enjoy the late<br />
afternoon sun and a<br />
nice cool beer at the<br />
tables spread outside<br />
this and other bars<br />
along the picturesque<br />
waterfront Nyhavn.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Café Selina (43<br />
Skindergade, tel:<br />
3312 1220) This cosy<br />
little bar with friendly<br />
bartenders lets you<br />
get right up close to<br />
jazz musicians several<br />
nights a week. It has<br />
live bands that play<br />
at the weekends too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Oak Room (10<br />
Birkegade, tel: 3860<br />
3860) A safe bet for a<br />
great night out. Battle<br />
your way through<br />
the throng of people<br />
fi lling this long, narrow<br />
and trendy Nørrebro<br />
cocktail bar and you’ll<br />
be rewarded with a<br />
massive choice of<br />
wines and cocktails.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Want to look<br />
like a Copenhagen<br />
hipster? Head to<br />
Wood Wood, set up in<br />
2002 by three former<br />
students of Denmark’s<br />
Royal Design School<br />
and selling casual<br />
clothes designed<br />
in-house or sourced<br />
<br />
from brands including<br />
Comme Des Garçons<br />
(1 Grønnegade).<br />
SEE The Copenhagen<br />
Marathon takes place<br />
on 20 May. For fi tness<br />
fanatics, it’s a great<br />
way to see the city, or<br />
for the more sedate,<br />
position yourself<br />
along the inner-city<br />
route and witness the<br />
streets come to life<br />
with cheering, fl agwaving<br />
Danes.<br />
GO The 33-hectare<br />
site of the old Carlsberg<br />
brewery is fi lled with<br />
interesting historic<br />
buildings, including<br />
Carl Jacobsen House,<br />
the Elephant Gate<br />
and Tower and the<br />
Carlsberg Museum.<br />
If you go from 10–12<br />
May, you can enjoy<br />
the Copenhagen Beer<br />
Festival (ale.dk).<br />
ESCAPE The<br />
45-minute train ride<br />
north to Elsinore is<br />
well worth the eff ort<br />
as the town is packed<br />
with things to see and<br />
do including Kronborg<br />
Castle, made famous<br />
by Shakespeare’s<br />
Hamlet and now<br />
a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site. The<br />
old cobbled streets<br />
of the city are worth<br />
exploring too.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Copenhagen has<br />
over 100 public<br />
playgrounds, 28 of<br />
which are staff ed by<br />
trained educational<br />
personnel and more<br />
than a third of which<br />
are located within<br />
a green area.<br />
Cathy Strongman<br />
Corfu<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Manchester, Milan<br />
(MXP), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €12.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Fish<br />
Taverna Kalami<br />
(Boukari, SE Corfu,<br />
tel: 26620 53003)<br />
Dabble your toes in<br />
the sea while enjoying<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Galini (Agios<br />
Stefanos, NE Corfu,<br />
tel: 26630 81492)<br />
With its harbourside<br />
tables, this<br />
venue off ers a great<br />
location to savour<br />
local dishes. Try the<br />
swordfi sh kebabs.<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
fi sh caught by this<br />
taverna’s proprietors.<br />
Select juicy charcoalgrilled<br />
octopus as<br />
starter, with whole fi sh<br />
and garlic sauce for a<br />
luscious main course.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Netoikos (12–14<br />
Kalokeretou Street,<br />
Corfu Town, tel: 26610<br />
47479) Enjoy coff ee or<br />
something stronger<br />
while you catch up<br />
with business. The<br />
café has Wi-Fi.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Coconut Bar (Arillas)<br />
Locals and tourists<br />
meet at this brilliant<br />
nighttime venue.<br />
Regular live gigs<br />
showcase quality rock<br />
and Greek pop groups,<br />
and attract musiclovers<br />
from all over<br />
the island.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Head for Corfu<br />
Town on 21 May to<br />
admire the vibrant<br />
procession that<br />
celebrates the Ionian<br />
Islands’ Union with<br />
Greece in 1864.<br />
Philharmonic bands<br />
with stern offi cials<br />
march around the<br />
Esplanade Square.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
At 1,227mm, Corfu’s<br />
annual average<br />
precipitation is higher<br />
than Manchester’s<br />
(806 mm)! The good<br />
news is that most rain<br />
falls during winter,<br />
and the fi ve months<br />
of summer are<br />
generally dry.<br />
Hilary Paipeti<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio)<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Route 8 buses go<br />
to the centre till<br />
11.15pm. Tickets: €4.50<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
U Pampasgiolu (15<br />
Rue de la Porta, tel:<br />
04 9550 7152) For<br />
top-quality Corsican<br />
food from an à-lacarte<br />
menu or for<br />
more speciality<br />
meals served on<br />
wooden platters,<br />
head to this rustic<br />
restaurant, where it<br />
is always packed.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Diamant Noir<br />
(Hotel Club Marinca,<br />
Olmetto Plage, tel:<br />
04 9570 0900)<br />
Enjoy a romantic<br />
candlelit dinner<br />
on a terrace that<br />
off ers a spectacular,<br />
panoramic view over<br />
the beach and out<br />
to sea. Fish is the<br />
house speciality.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Da<br />
Mamma (Passage<br />
Guinguette, tel: 04<br />
9521 3944) This<br />
down-to-earth<br />
Corsican eatery is<br />
neatly tucked away<br />
down an alleyway<br />
off Cours Napoleon.<br />
Enjoy your drink<br />
outside in a quaint<br />
tree-covered<br />
courtyard.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Casino d’Ajaccio<br />
(Boulevard Pascal<br />
Rossini, tel: 04 9550<br />
4060) The casino<br />
is a one-stop shop<br />
for food, drink and<br />
entertainment, and<br />
is particularly busy<br />
on Saturdays when<br />
you can celebrate<br />
your winnings, or<br />
commiserate your<br />
losses, in the house<br />
nightclub,which stays<br />
open until 3am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Explore hidden<br />
side streets of<br />
Ajaccio and fi nd<br />
the quirky Musée<br />
a Bandera, which<br />
off ers an insight<br />
into Corsican history<br />
up until World War<br />
II (1 Rue du Général<br />
Lévie, tel: 04<br />
9551 0734).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Well-known French<br />
actor and cabaret<br />
star Tino Rossi was<br />
born in Ajaccio. He<br />
is best known for his<br />
role in Marinella and<br />
the classic French<br />
Christmas song<br />
“Petit Papa Noel”.<br />
Katy Gillett
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Corsica<br />
(Bastia)<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Manchester,<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
Catch the airport<br />
bus to the<br />
Préfecture. Tickets: €9<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Day<br />
& Night (Place<br />
du Marché, tel: 04<br />
9558 3001) Enjoy<br />
mouthwatering<br />
ciabatta, hamburgers<br />
and panini, sweet<br />
and savoury, along<br />
with a cold beer from<br />
Bastia’s newest snack<br />
and beer bar.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
U Palazzu Serenu<br />
(Lieu-dit Paganacce,<br />
tel: 04 9538 3939) Fine<br />
dining, great service,<br />
magnifi cent views<br />
and some fantastic<br />
contemporary art<br />
(Daniel Arsham,<br />
Anish Kapoor, Manuel<br />
Mérida)... what more<br />
can one ask for?<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Bar<br />
de la Citadelle (La<br />
Citadelle, tel: 04<br />
9531 2480) Arguably<br />
the best terrace in<br />
Bastia, with splendid<br />
views over the<br />
Mediterranean and<br />
ships as they come<br />
into port. Enjoy an<br />
aperitif in a cosy<br />
lounger as the<br />
sun sets.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Pub Assunta (4 Rue<br />
de la Fontanicchia, tel:<br />
04 9534 1140) Dine,<br />
drink and dance the<br />
night away, with<br />
afro-latino on<br />
Thursdays and discofunk<br />
on Fridays.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE See a unique<br />
exhibition at the<br />
Bastia museum called<br />
Bastia 43, the Italian<br />
Occupation Viewed by<br />
Children (1942–1943).<br />
An insightful art<br />
teacher asked her<br />
students to portray<br />
their daily experiences<br />
under the occupation.<br />
The children’s and the<br />
teacher’s drawings<br />
provide us with a<br />
rare, touching insight<br />
in to this dark time<br />
in Corsica’s history<br />
(Place du Donjon,<br />
Citadelle, tel: 04<br />
9531 0912).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Corsica has a rich<br />
variety of fl ora,<br />
including a whopping<br />
296 endemic species,<br />
which constitute 12%<br />
of the island’s wildlife.<br />
Stacy Jouve<br />
Crete<br />
(Chania)<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Buses run six<br />
times a day to<br />
the city centre from<br />
6.40am–8.45pm.<br />
Tickets: €2.30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
EXCLUSIVE Suki<br />
Yaki (28 Halidon<br />
Street, tel: 28210<br />
95955) This gem of<br />
a restaurant, tucked<br />
down a small alley off<br />
Halidon Street, serves<br />
excellent and authentic<br />
Chinese food in<br />
beautiful surroundings.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Four<br />
Seasons (Akti<br />
Kountouriotou, tel:<br />
2821 055 583) Enjoy a<br />
relaxing early-evening<br />
drink as you watch<br />
the world go by at this<br />
popular harbour-front<br />
café and bar. Get there<br />
early before the latenight<br />
crowds.<br />
LUXURY VILLAS<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Monastiri Taverna<br />
(12 Akti Tompazi,<br />
tel: 2821 055 527)<br />
Set on the harbour<br />
front, Monastiri<br />
serves fresh,<br />
home-cooked food,<br />
including a large<br />
variety of starters.<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
NOW AVAILABLE FOR SALE<br />
IN CRETE from 299,900 euros<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
El Mondo Bar<br />
(Kondilaki Street,<br />
Old Town) An old<br />
favourite in the<br />
harbour night scene,<br />
El Mondo is decorated<br />
with hundreds of old<br />
dollar bills, photos and<br />
other memorabilia.<br />
Rock classics, modern<br />
rock and dance<br />
music all play.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Entrance is free<br />
to Greece’s museums<br />
and archaeological<br />
sites on 18 May,<br />
International<br />
Museums Day.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Greeks consume the<br />
most olive oil in the<br />
world per capita, with<br />
Cretans consuming<br />
the most in Greece.<br />
The average Greek<br />
consumes more than<br />
15 kilos per year, while<br />
in Crete it exceeds<br />
20 kilos per person<br />
per year.<br />
Carol Palioudakis<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 121<br />
Crete<br />
(Heraklion)<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW, LTN), Madrid,<br />
Manchester, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris<br />
(CDG), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €14.<br />
Buses run every<br />
10 minutes to the<br />
centre. Tickets: €1.10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Erganos (5 Georgiadi,<br />
tel: 28 1028 5629)<br />
This cosy taverna<br />
epitomises everything<br />
Cretan., especially the<br />
delicious food. Feast<br />
on dakos, creamy<br />
cheese rusks, homecooked<br />
meat and<br />
vegetable dishes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Loukoulos (5 Korai,<br />
tel: 2810 224 435)<br />
Set in a beautifully<br />
renovated neoclassical<br />
building, this restaurant<br />
has a reputation to<br />
match the fi ne décor<br />
and furnishings.<br />
For further information or to request a brochure visit www.caversham-barnes.com or call +44 (0)7904 345 567<br />
The menu is a mix<br />
of Mediterranean<br />
styles – Greek, Italian<br />
and French – and<br />
there’s a small outside<br />
courtyard with tables.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Central<br />
Park (19 Arkoleontos,<br />
tel: 2810 346 500)<br />
The outdoor terrace<br />
of the trendy Central<br />
Park café-come-bar,<br />
opposite the busy El<br />
Greco park square,<br />
is a great place for<br />
people-watching.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Mayo Café-<br />
Bar (Milatou &<br />
Miramvellou) The<br />
tables at this bar spill<br />
out on to a lively street<br />
in Heraklion’s central<br />
nightlife area, while<br />
the indoor bar rocks<br />
until the early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Head to the<br />
countryside on 1 May,<br />
a national holiday to<br />
celebrate the Feast of<br />
the Flowers. Families<br />
traditionally picnic and<br />
gather wild fl owers to<br />
make wreaths, which<br />
are hung on cars and<br />
homes. During the<br />
rest of the month, the<br />
spring fl owers can be<br />
appreciated in many of<br />
the meadows around<br />
the countryside.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Wreaths of May Day<br />
fl owers, hung outside<br />
homes on 1 May, are<br />
traditionally left in<br />
place until the festival<br />
of St John the Baptist<br />
on 24 June.<br />
Carol Palioudakis<br />
CB<br />
Caversham-<br />
Barnes<br />
Exclusive<br />
property<br />
developers
122 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Cyprus<br />
(Larnaca)<br />
Cyprus<br />
DIALLING CODE +357<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Lambros (Cessac,<br />
Dhekelia, tel: 2472<br />
3206) Well known<br />
for its fi sh and chips,<br />
this place also serves<br />
steak and kebabs.<br />
Situated on Cessac<br />
beach, there’s ample<br />
parking too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Black Turtle Tavern<br />
(11 Mehmet Ali<br />
Street, tel: 2465<br />
0661) Traditional<br />
entertainment and<br />
food. Listen to live<br />
bands playing Cypriot<br />
music on Fridays and<br />
Saturdays. They only<br />
serve mezze, but<br />
there’s a wide range<br />
of dishes on off er and<br />
they are delicious.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Meeting<br />
Pub (Athene Avenue,<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Making<br />
Waves<br />
All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />
in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />
offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />
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tel: 2465 6893) This<br />
seaside pub-café<br />
is a favourite stop<br />
off . Good food,<br />
reasonable prices<br />
and pleasant<br />
staff make sure<br />
customers return.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Blue Pine (3<br />
Louki Pierides, tel:<br />
2464 6553) One<br />
of Larnaca’s longestablished<br />
bars,<br />
where rock music<br />
plays constantly.<br />
It regularly holds<br />
live music nights<br />
and football-viewing<br />
events, and it has a<br />
large smoking area.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Anthestiria,<br />
or Flower Festival,<br />
is a colourful<br />
parade of fl owerdecorated<br />
fl oats,<br />
walking groups,<br />
entertainment and<br />
fi reworks. It’s a real<br />
sight to see (5 May at<br />
Athens Avenue and<br />
the Seafront Stage).<br />
Bev Orton Jennings<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Oroklini Lake is a<br />
Natura 2000 site<br />
and is important for<br />
two bird species: the<br />
black-winged stilt<br />
and the spur-winged<br />
lapwing. In total, 190<br />
bird species have<br />
been recorded here.<br />
Cyprus<br />
(Paphos)<br />
Cyprus<br />
DIALLING CODE +357<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, London<br />
(LGW, LTN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Buses run to<br />
Paphos harbour<br />
every hour. Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ocean<br />
Basket (Avanti Village,<br />
tel: 26 961 379) As<br />
the name suggests,<br />
this popular South<br />
African chain serves<br />
superb seafood<br />
dishes ranging from<br />
fi sh and chips to<br />
well-presented combo<br />
platters to share. The<br />
staff are friendly and<br />
service is swift.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Asiachi Restaurant<br />
(Amathus Beach Hotel,<br />
Poseidon Avenue, tel:<br />
26 883 300) Dress up<br />
and enjoy some of the<br />
best sushi in Paphos.<br />
Its chic lighting and<br />
fi ne service make<br />
this stylish Asian<br />
restaurant ideal for<br />
a special dinner.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Kafe<br />
Pariz (Corner of<br />
Makarios Avenue,<br />
tel: 96 483 432)<br />
Convenently located at<br />
the top of a shopping<br />
street, Makarios<br />
Avenue, Kafe Pariz is a<br />
cosy watering hole for<br />
cake and coff ee by day<br />
and a drink by night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Temple Pub and Café<br />
(April 1 Street, tel: 96<br />
727 314) Local rock<br />
bands perform at the<br />
friendly, cosy Temple,<br />
housed in a renovated<br />
traditional Cypriot<br />
house with indoor and<br />
courtyard seating.<br />
Local and imported<br />
beers are on the menu.<br />
Casual dress is fi ne<br />
for this venue that is<br />
popular with locals.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE A short drive<br />
east of Paphos<br />
leads to Kouklia, the<br />
site of the ancient<br />
temple complex<br />
where Aphrodite was<br />
worshipped. Adjacent<br />
to the remains is<br />
a museum, which<br />
houses fi nds from<br />
the site, including a<br />
large, black meteorite<br />
that represented the<br />
goddess.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
If you think halloumi<br />
cheese is Greek,<br />
you’re wrong. It’s<br />
100% Cypriot and is<br />
delicious grilled.<br />
Lucie Robson/lintv.eu<br />
Dalaman<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY TRY<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, London<br />
(LGW, STN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs TRY40.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Doyum 1 (Merkez<br />
Camii Arkasi, tel:<br />
0252 692 4899)<br />
Try an extra-special<br />
traditional Turkish<br />
pide (fl atbread with<br />
fi llings). Follow with<br />
a glass of ayran,<br />
which is similar to<br />
lassi. What a way<br />
to start the day!<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Karya Restaurant-<br />
Kafe (Mugla Fethiye<br />
Karayolu 276,<br />
Yerbelen Mah, Ortaca,<br />
tel: 0252 282 9000)<br />
Try this superb eatery<br />
where quality food<br />
at sensible prices<br />
is the norm. Start<br />
with a fresh mezze<br />
and follow with a<br />
mouthwatering steak.<br />
Simply delicious.<br />
Are you interested in advertising to<br />
5m passengers per month?<br />
Please contact our advertising sales team<br />
on +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Cadde Café &<br />
Bar (Cumhurriyet<br />
Cadessi, 7A Firat<br />
Apartments, tel:<br />
0252 692 2426)<br />
Boasting a cinemasize<br />
TV and musical<br />
entertainment, a<br />
relaxing, Englishstyle<br />
bar ideal for<br />
starting an evening<br />
of enjoyment.<br />
Conversation<br />
fl ows between locals<br />
and expats over<br />
anything from strong<br />
coff ee to throatburning<br />
spirits.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
M and S Club (Main<br />
Street, Sarigerme,<br />
tel: 0252 286 8366)<br />
Join DJ Ismail at<br />
this small, intimate<br />
disco-club, playing<br />
the latest in dance<br />
music till 5am. Don’t<br />
miss the spectacular<br />
parties on Friday and<br />
Saturday nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Enjoy the<br />
delights of daily, live,<br />
open-air concerts<br />
given by top Turkish<br />
artists and pick up<br />
the bargain of your<br />
holiday in the street<br />
markets at the<br />
Dalaman Culture<br />
and Tourism Festival<br />
held 9–13 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Iztuzu beach, near<br />
Dalyan, is one of<br />
the few remaining<br />
locations suitable for<br />
the loggerhead turtle<br />
(carreta carreta) to<br />
safely lay her eggs.<br />
Rod Harrison
SETTING STANDARDS<br />
I N T H E H E A R T O F T H E M E D I T E R R A N E A N<br />
Tumas Developments, 1052 Portomaso, St Julian’s, STJ 4011, Malta<br />
Tel Tumas : (+356) Developments, 21 386 802 Mob 1052 : (+356) Portomaso, 79 497 504 St Julian’s, STJ 4011, Malta<br />
Email Tel : : (+356)<br />
info@tumasdevelopments.com<br />
21 386 802 Mob : (+356) Web 79 497 : www.tumasdevelopments.com<br />
504<br />
Email : info@tumasdevelopments.com Web : www.tumasdevelopments.com<br />
LUXURY LIVING<br />
on the island of Malta<br />
Tumas Developments proudly offer Malta’s<br />
most exclusive, standard setting lifestyle<br />
addresses. All three award-winning projects<br />
boast the most spectacular waterfront views<br />
on the island and offer Special Designated<br />
Area benefits, which means that property<br />
can be purchased under the same<br />
conditions as locals. Being a member of the<br />
EU with growing business incentives and<br />
voted as having “The Best Climate on<br />
Earth”, Malta is the ideal destination.
Available in the best European airports<br />
PROTECTION<br />
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Dortmund<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona,<br />
Budapest, London<br />
(LTN), Majorca,<br />
Thessaloniki, Zagreb<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
The Airport<br />
Express leaves<br />
every hour. Tickets: €6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Incontro (22<br />
Kleppingstrasse,<br />
tel: 0231 533 0200)<br />
Staff members here,<br />
Dortmund’s best<br />
Italian restaurant,<br />
are known to break<br />
into song. It’s one of<br />
the most fashionable<br />
places in town, with<br />
excellent food.<br />
EXCLUSIVE George<br />
Fine Dine (Pullman<br />
Dortmund, 88<br />
Lindemannstrasse, tel:<br />
0231 911 3869) One of<br />
Germany’s best chefs,<br />
Sascha Heitfeld, serves<br />
inspired dishes to a<br />
small group of people<br />
at this restaurant.<br />
Expect a varied menu,<br />
with delicacies such as<br />
crawfi sh burger, T-bone<br />
steak and bison fi llet.<br />
Bookings only.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Firebowl<br />
(35–37 Kampstrasse,<br />
tel: 0231 163 030)<br />
Hidden on the top<br />
fl oor of a city-centre<br />
shopping mall, this fun<br />
24-lane bowling centre<br />
has a bar, restaurant,<br />
billiards and is open<br />
very late at weekends.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Domicil Jazzclub<br />
(7–11 Hansastrasse,<br />
tel: 0231 862 9030)<br />
A converted 1950s’<br />
cinema off ers a<br />
phenomenal range of<br />
acts every week, from<br />
jazz to Balkan beats,<br />
rock and soul. There’s a<br />
good café and bar, too.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO During the DFB<br />
Cup fi nal (held in Berlin<br />
on 12 May) local team<br />
BVB – Germany’s<br />
best football club with<br />
the best fans – plays<br />
against either Borussia<br />
Mönchengladbach or<br />
Bayern München. If<br />
BVB wins, it’ll be the<br />
party of the year, head<br />
to the pubs and streets<br />
here to see the action.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Adler pharmacy<br />
sells off surplus<br />
items from its small<br />
museum collection;<br />
your chance to buy<br />
enema syringes, glass<br />
vessels, opium pipes<br />
and other antique<br />
medical instruments.<br />
Jeroen van Marle/<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
Dresden<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Catch the<br />
S-Bahn to<br />
Dresden, which runs<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €2 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Café<br />
Weinberg (12 Kaitzer<br />
Weinberg, tel: 0351<br />
4042480) Café<br />
Weinberg has long<br />
been a local favourite,<br />
not just for the<br />
excellent view of the<br />
Elbe valley into the<br />
Sandstone Mountains,<br />
but also for the variety<br />
of hearty meals.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Lingnerterrassen<br />
(132 Bautzner Strasse,<br />
tel: 0351 456 8510)<br />
Located in a villa<br />
named for its former<br />
owner, Herr Lingner,<br />
the restaurant is a<br />
provision of his last<br />
will and testament.<br />
With a menu ranging<br />
from conventional<br />
to modern creations,<br />
it’s the perfect mix of<br />
old and new.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Mondpalast /<br />
Bon Voyage (77<br />
Louisenstrasse, tel:<br />
0351 5634050)<br />
The Bon Voyage bar<br />
in the Mondpalast<br />
is a great place<br />
to make friends<br />
from Dresden and<br />
international folk from<br />
the adjoining hostel.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Strasse E (2 Werner-<br />
Hartmann-Strasse,<br />
tel: 0351 86660) In<br />
a former industrial<br />
location in Dresden,<br />
Strasse E is the<br />
one-stop shop for<br />
nightlife. There’s a<br />
dance fl oor for every<br />
taste. Strasse E is<br />
the counterpoint to<br />
Dresden’s Old City,<br />
embodying the city’s<br />
youth culture.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO This month, all<br />
of Dresden will be<br />
a jazz stage for the<br />
42nd Dixieland<br />
Festival. More than<br />
seven million people<br />
and eight hundred<br />
bands come together<br />
in the city to dixie<br />
rhythms. Look for<br />
concerts in clubs,<br />
on steam boats<br />
or in restaurants<br />
(tel: 0351 486 6666,<br />
dixieland.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In the north of<br />
Dresden is the third<br />
largest city forest in<br />
Germany, a popular<br />
recreational and<br />
sport destination<br />
for Dresdeners.<br />
Toby Crowley<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 125<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
Croatia<br />
DIALLING CODE +385<br />
CURRENCY KUNA (HRK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (ORY), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
around 200HRK.<br />
Shuttle buses<br />
run to the centre.<br />
Tickets: 35HRK.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Magellan (7A Ive<br />
Vojnovia, tel: 020<br />
333594) Savour the<br />
cheery warmth of the<br />
Dalmatian sun even<br />
if you’re sitting in the<br />
fabulous indoor dining<br />
area. Memorable<br />
meals with top-notch<br />
service are only steps<br />
away from some of<br />
Lapad’s favourite<br />
hotels and beaches.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Vapor<br />
(7 Pere ingrije, tel: 020<br />
330888) A welcoming<br />
glow radiates from the<br />
understated elegance<br />
of this restaurant in<br />
the Bellevue Hotel.<br />
Fine food with a view<br />
that leaves nothing to<br />
be desired... except<br />
another visit.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Panorama Café (Sr<br />
Hill) The only way to<br />
really know Dubrovnik<br />
is from the breathtaking<br />
view atop<br />
Mount Sr. Make the<br />
most of the journey<br />
by staying a while<br />
for mouth-watering<br />
cheesecakes and<br />
excellent coff ee in this<br />
mountain-top café.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
SkyBar (1 Marojice<br />
Kaboge) This bar<br />
exudes an ambience<br />
that’s quickly made it<br />
a local favourite. The<br />
good food and great<br />
drinks make it enticing<br />
even in the wee hours<br />
of the morning.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Vrnik island, from its<br />
Hagia Sophia to the<br />
White House, was built<br />
using marble from the<br />
29 quarries that have<br />
been in use here since<br />
the Roman era.<br />
Jenna Parish/<br />
In Your Pocket<br />
WORMS AND<br />
MORE<br />
SEE Observe and<br />
participate in the<br />
traditional production<br />
of silk thread. After<br />
this experience,<br />
you’ll have another<br />
reason to adore this<br />
fabric (Silk, Deša,<br />
8 Frana Supila).
126 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LGW), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Trains to the<br />
Hauptbahnhof<br />
leave every 15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €2.30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Vietnam Tú (39<br />
Bolkerstrasse, tel: 0211<br />
9119 1315) The plump<br />
summer rolls and<br />
fragrant noodle soups<br />
at Vietnam Tú make a<br />
healthy alternative to<br />
kebabs or currywurst<br />
– and the kitchen stays<br />
open until midnight.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Café<br />
de Bretagne (7<br />
Benrather Strasse,<br />
tel: 0211 5694 0775)<br />
Bright, wholesome<br />
Café de Bretagne is a<br />
blast of fresh Atlantic<br />
air in the elegant<br />
Carlstadt, with a menu<br />
rich in oysters, lobster<br />
and caviar, plus lavish<br />
plateaux de fruits<br />
de mer to share.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Haifi schbecken<br />
(108 Moltkestrasse,<br />
tel: 0151 1021 0674)<br />
There’s an underwater<br />
theme to Pempelfort’s<br />
latest café-bar:<br />
Haifi schbecken means<br />
“shark basin”. Dive in<br />
for a cool ambiance,<br />
cosmopolitan menu,<br />
cocktails and top DJs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Checker’s Club<br />
(28–30 Königsallee,<br />
tel: 02131 2985<br />
2501) Supermodel<br />
Claudia Schiff er<br />
was discovered at<br />
Checker’s Club and,<br />
just like Schiff er, the<br />
club is as fresh and<br />
stylish as ever, with<br />
everything from R’n’B<br />
nights to Turkish<br />
and urban sounds.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Fine weather<br />
makes a visit to pretty<br />
Schloss Benrath –<br />
Düsseldorf’s sole<br />
example of a<br />
Baroque palace –<br />
almost irresistible.<br />
From the ornate<br />
interiors of the Corps<br />
de Logis to the lush<br />
hunting park, this<br />
stately home is a cut<br />
above (schlossbenrath.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sheep graze the<br />
Rhine’s grassy banks<br />
directly opposite<br />
Düsseldorf’s Altstadt,<br />
giving drinkers<br />
on the waterfront<br />
an incongruously<br />
pastoral view right in<br />
the heart of the city.<br />
Neville Walker<br />
Edinburgh<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />
Cologne, Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Geneva, Grenoble,<br />
Krakow, Lisbon, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />
Munich, Majorca,<br />
Naples, Nice, Paris<br />
(CDG), Tenerife<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
The Airlink 100<br />
express service<br />
goes to the centre.<br />
Tickets: £6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 The<br />
Storytelling Café (43<br />
High Street, tel: 0131<br />
556 9579)<br />
The café in the<br />
Scottish Storytelling<br />
Centre on the Royal<br />
Mile is bright and<br />
airy. A great<br />
selection of homebaked<br />
goodies is<br />
complemented with<br />
salads and light bites.<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Basement Bar and<br />
Restaurant (10A<br />
Broughton Street, tel:<br />
0131 557 0097) This<br />
spacious underground<br />
bar has a laid-back<br />
atmosphere that spills<br />
over into the slightly<br />
more formal dining<br />
area. The fi sh is always<br />
worth considering<br />
from a menu of<br />
well-constructed<br />
combinations, which<br />
changes every evening.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Wedgwood the<br />
Restaurant (267<br />
Canongate, tel: 0131<br />
558 8737) Fine dining<br />
on the Royal Mile in<br />
a calm and friendly<br />
atmosphere. Head<br />
chef Paul Wedgwood<br />
has a fanatical attitude<br />
to Scottish produce<br />
– from sustainably<br />
sourced seafood to<br />
locally foraged leaves.<br />
His attention to detail<br />
is refl ected in elegantly<br />
crafted food on a menu<br />
that varies according<br />
to season.<br />
THE BONHAM<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This boutique hotel<br />
boasts brilliant<br />
colours and a vibrant<br />
crowd, with work by<br />
Scottish artists<br />
hung throughout.<br />
From €84, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Tower (Chambers<br />
Street, tel: 0131 225<br />
3003) On the rooftop<br />
of the Museum of<br />
Scotland, this venue<br />
lends a real air of<br />
celebration to any<br />
meal, with cityscape<br />
views across the Old<br />
Town to the castle. The<br />
menu and ambience<br />
live up to the setting<br />
with a menu based<br />
on seasonal Scottish<br />
ingredients, prepared<br />
in a relaxed unfussy<br />
style, and a seriously<br />
long wine list to match.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Villager<br />
(49 George IV Bridge,<br />
tel: 0131 226 2781)<br />
A serious attention<br />
to the art of lounging<br />
means this large,<br />
comfy bar off the<br />
Royal Mile is a great<br />
location for a long<br />
and lazy afternoon.<br />
A sophisticated<br />
selection of decadent<br />
cocktails makes it all<br />
the more pleasant.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Bannerman’s Bar<br />
(212 Cowgate, tel:<br />
0131 556 3254) Loud,<br />
local bands more<br />
than make up for the<br />
diminished sound<br />
quality, caused by this<br />
bar’s vaulted ceiling,<br />
with enthusiasm from<br />
the stage.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Opal Lounge (51<br />
George Street, tel:<br />
0131 226 2275)<br />
Upmarket clubbing<br />
in the heart of the<br />
New Town. Open until<br />
3am nightly with a<br />
selection of guest DJs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A hot spot<br />
for traditional and<br />
contemporary Scottish<br />
folk music, Coda is<br />
just off the Royal Mile.<br />
A friendly shop that<br />
also boasts a strong<br />
selection of country,<br />
blues and world music<br />
(12 Bank Street).<br />
SEE The National<br />
Theatre of Scotland<br />
takes up residence<br />
at the Traverse all<br />
month with its Òran<br />
Mór collaboration of<br />
lunchtime theatre in A<br />
Play, a Pie and a Pint.<br />
The bite-size off erings<br />
are inspired by artists<br />
living in Lebanon,<br />
Morocco and Syria.<br />
GO The village of<br />
Cramond is at the<br />
end of the 41 bus<br />
route, where the river<br />
Almond enters the<br />
Firth of Forth. It is safe<br />
to cross the causeway<br />
to Crasmond Island for<br />
two hours either side of<br />
low water; or just take a<br />
wander up the river.<br />
ESCAPE St Abbs<br />
Head sticks out into<br />
the North Sea and is<br />
a 40-minute drive east<br />
of Edinburgh. There<br />
are easy cliff -top walks<br />
past the precipitous<br />
nesting ledges of<br />
thousands of seabirds,<br />
and the harbours of St<br />
Abbs and Eyemouth<br />
to explore.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Cramond is the earliest<br />
known site of human<br />
settlement in Scotland.<br />
Archaeological<br />
remains go back to<br />
around 8,500 BC.<br />
Thom Dibdin<br />
HAVE YOU DISCOVERED THE<br />
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CHASE & STATUS COOPER CRYSTAL CASTLES DAVE CLARKE ED SHEERAN EXAMPLE<br />
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KURT VILE & THE VIOLATORS LITTLE DRAGON THE MACCABEES MILES KANE<br />
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More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Faro<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Bristol, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
SEN, STN), Newcastle,<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Faro is<br />
about €10, Albufeira<br />
€50 and Lagos €90.<br />
The bus departs<br />
to Faro bus<br />
station every 40–60<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.65.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Café do<br />
Coreto (Jardim Mauel<br />
Bívar, tel: 289 822<br />
964) With outdoor<br />
seating facing Faro’s<br />
marina and brisk<br />
waiter service, this is<br />
a lovely spot for an al<br />
fresco salad, pizza,<br />
sandwich or drink.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Adega Dois Irmãos<br />
(14 Largo Terreiro<br />
do Bispo, tel: 289<br />
823 337) Once a<br />
welder’s shop but<br />
now a beautifully<br />
tiled restaurant with<br />
its own patio garden,<br />
this is the best place<br />
in central Faro for<br />
www.qpm-properties.com<br />
qpm.lagos@gmail.com<br />
(00351) 282 094280<br />
good-value fresh fi sh<br />
and seafood, much of<br />
which you can admire<br />
fi rst in the counter.<br />
UP TO €50 Casa<br />
do Lago (Aldeamento<br />
Quinta do Lago,<br />
Almancil, tel: 289 394<br />
911) One of Quinta<br />
do Lago’s oldest<br />
restaurants, with a<br />
great terrace facing<br />
a lake, Casa do Lago<br />
specialises in fresh<br />
fi sh and seafood.<br />
There are cataplana<br />
(seafood stews), rice<br />
and pasta dishes as<br />
well as steaks and<br />
chicken. Starters<br />
are also unmissable,<br />
including bulhão pato<br />
(a delicious dish with<br />
clams), scallops,<br />
oysters and fi sh cakes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Hotel<br />
Faro (2 Praça Dr<br />
Francisco Gomes, tel:<br />
289 830 830) Head<br />
to the top fl oor of this<br />
modern hotel for its<br />
roof terrace bar (open<br />
to non-guests). The<br />
views are sublime,<br />
looking out across<br />
Faro’s harbourside<br />
gardens and the sea<br />
beyond.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Sociedade<br />
Recreativa Artistica<br />
Farense (10 Rua do<br />
Montepio, tel: 289<br />
822 988) Faro’s<br />
Recreational Arts<br />
Society is a small<br />
club where local<br />
bands cut their teeth:<br />
these can be hit or<br />
miss, but you can<br />
sometimes catch an<br />
up-and-coming rock,<br />
folk or jazz gem.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
T Clube (Buganvilla<br />
Plaza, Quinta do<br />
Lago, tel: 289 396<br />
751) The upmarket<br />
resort of Quinta<br />
do Lago’s place to<br />
be seen, T-Clube is<br />
where the rich and<br />
famous like to party.<br />
So look your best and<br />
expect to queue at<br />
weekends to hit this<br />
sophisticated club.<br />
Topas Disco<br />
(Sitio da Botelha,<br />
Sagres) Sagres is<br />
western Algarve’s<br />
serious party town,<br />
so round off the<br />
night with some<br />
thumping music<br />
and an extensive<br />
drinks selection. If<br />
you’re staying at the<br />
campsite, even better<br />
– it’s only a short<br />
stagger home.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Just west<br />
of Faro, Quarteira<br />
is both a resort and<br />
lively fi shing port<br />
and its market is<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Fortaleza da Luz<br />
(3 Avenida dos<br />
Pescadores, Praia da<br />
Luz) Dine in a 17thcentury<br />
fort. Using<br />
organic ingredients,<br />
the menu features<br />
fresh fi sh and classic<br />
dishes such as lamb.<br />
one of the best in<br />
the entire region for<br />
fi sh and seafood.<br />
On Wednesdays, a<br />
weekly fl ea market<br />
sells everything from<br />
bargain clothes to<br />
tools and ceramics.<br />
SEE The world’s<br />
best drivers on water<br />
head to Portimão<br />
for the Grand Prix F1<br />
Power Boat World<br />
Championships<br />
(f1h20.com) on<br />
21-22 May, a hugely<br />
impressive race<br />
around the estuary of<br />
the Rio Arade.<br />
GO One of the<br />
Algarve’s loveliest<br />
beaches, Praia<br />
do Faro, is just<br />
minutes away from<br />
Faro’s airport. It’s<br />
a fantastic, narrow<br />
stretch of sands<br />
on an elongated<br />
sandspit island.<br />
ESCAPE Head to<br />
Fóia, the Algarve’s<br />
highest mountain<br />
with dazzling views<br />
over the coast. At<br />
the adjacent village<br />
of Monchique, the<br />
Atacar o Maio festival<br />
welcomes in the<br />
month with bolo de<br />
tacho, a cake made<br />
from honey and<br />
chocolate, washed<br />
down with schnappslike<br />
medronho.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
White storks nest<br />
on virtually every<br />
tall tree and tower in<br />
the Algarve in spring:<br />
it’s considered bad<br />
luck if the storks do<br />
not return to nest<br />
each year.<br />
Matthew Hancock<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 129<br />
Fez<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about 120MAD.<br />
Buses run to<br />
the train station<br />
in the New City.<br />
Tickets: 20MAD.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Thami’s Restaurant<br />
(Derb Serrajine)<br />
Thami has excellent<br />
fare: grilled<br />
vegetables, chicken<br />
tagine, couscous and<br />
brochettes. Try the<br />
kefta tagine in tomato<br />
sauce, topped with<br />
an egg. Grab a table<br />
under the mulberry<br />
tree and watch the<br />
world go by from<br />
the busiest little<br />
pavement café in<br />
the medina.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ruined Garden Café<br />
(Derb Sidi Ahmed<br />
Chaoui, Douh, tel:<br />
06 4919 1410) Sit<br />
in the shade of an<br />
old lemon tree by a<br />
broken column in this<br />
delightful garden that<br />
was once a beautiful<br />
riad. At lunchtime,<br />
you can sample<br />
Moroccan delights<br />
such as the fresh<br />
sardines fried in a<br />
fi ne couscous batter<br />
with homemade<br />
preserved lemon aioli.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La<br />
Villa (117 Boulevard<br />
Bahnini, Hay Riad,<br />
tel: 0535 60 44 66)<br />
La Villa has the most<br />
mouthwateringly<br />
tempting patisserie<br />
and ice creams in Fez.<br />
Sit outside on the<br />
balcony and peruse<br />
the menu – making<br />
a choice is so diffi cult,<br />
you’ll have to come<br />
back another time.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Majestic (Royal<br />
Tennis Club, tel:<br />
0535 729 999) This<br />
modern restaurant<br />
has an excellent bar<br />
and terrace. Check<br />
out the music nights<br />
with live bands.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Escape the<br />
crowds and head<br />
to the Andalous<br />
quarter. There’s a<br />
magnifi cent mosque,<br />
two madrasah, and no<br />
tourists in sight.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The old Jewish<br />
quarter is called Fez<br />
el-Jdid – “new Fez”<br />
– even though it was<br />
built over 700 years<br />
ago. Well, it is new<br />
in comparison with<br />
the medina, which<br />
is more than<br />
1,200 years old.<br />
Helen Ranger<br />
QPM is a property management and holiday rentals s<br />
company based in Lagos, in the Western Algarve.<br />
We are a small team of trustworthy and dedicated staff and<br />
will do everything within our reach to ensure your stay in the<br />
Algarve is a memorable one, and, if you are a property owner,<br />
that your house is well looked after at all times of the year.
130 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Bristol,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi to Corralejo<br />
costs €60, Caleta de<br />
Fuste: €15 and Costa<br />
Calma: €90.<br />
Route 3 goes to<br />
Caleta de Fuste.<br />
Tickets: €1.40. Route 6<br />
buses to Corralejo run<br />
every hour. Tickets: €4.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Factoria (9 Avenida<br />
Marítimo, Corralejo,<br />
tel: 928 535 726) This<br />
seafront café serves<br />
a wide variety of<br />
traditional Canarian<br />
dishes, as well as<br />
fresh pasta and some<br />
delicious pizza.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Pura<br />
Vida (Grandes Playa,<br />
Corralejo, tel: 672 524<br />
593) This beach-front<br />
bar overlooks Lobos.<br />
A wonderful, peaceful<br />
setting for that early<br />
evening aperitif.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bugaloo (2 Calle<br />
Hernan Cortez,<br />
Corralejo, tel: 630 766<br />
972) A cosy bar with<br />
a fantastic welcome<br />
and a terrace with a<br />
perfect view of the<br />
sea. The owner, Frans,<br />
is Dutch, but his bar<br />
has an international<br />
feel and is popular<br />
with holidaymakers.<br />
Great atmosphere as<br />
local games into the<br />
early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Canaries Day is<br />
30 May. Most towns<br />
will have cultural<br />
activities,dancing,<br />
music and local food<br />
and drink. Look for<br />
posters in your resort<br />
with details.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Tindaya’s mountain<br />
is sacred to the<br />
indigenous Guanches.<br />
There are neolithic<br />
settlements, shrines<br />
and podomorphs<br />
(carvings of feet,<br />
unique to the island).<br />
Penny Melville<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Scarpetta (Calle<br />
Juan de Austria, tel:<br />
928 535 887) In this<br />
exceptional Italian<br />
restaurant ask Mario<br />
about his specials.<br />
The ingredients are<br />
locally sourced and<br />
Mario knows his stuff .<br />
Geneva<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Asturias,<br />
Athens, Barcelona,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bilbao, Birmingham,<br />
Bordeaux,<br />
Bournemouth, Brindisi,<br />
Bristol, Brussels,<br />
Budapest, Cagliari,<br />
Catania, Copenhagen,<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />
Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Glasgow, Hurghada,<br />
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
Leeds-Bradford,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Madrid,Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Manchester,<br />
Marrakech, Mykonos,<br />
Nantes, Naples,<br />
Newcastle, Nice,<br />
Olbia, Paris (ORY),<br />
Porto, Pristina,<br />
Rome, Santiago de<br />
Compostela, Sharm<br />
El Sheikh, Split,<br />
Stockholm, Tel Aviv,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about CHF50.<br />
Trains go to<br />
Cornavin station.<br />
Pick up a free ticket<br />
from the machine in<br />
baggage reclaim, which<br />
is valid for an hour.<br />
A Swiss Transfer<br />
ticket off ers<br />
open returns on buses,<br />
trains and boats across<br />
the city. Buy onboard,<br />
tickets: £95.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Key and<br />
Eagle (7 Rue Grenus,<br />
tel: 022 731 7130) This<br />
modern take on the<br />
traditional pub off ers<br />
beer on tap at your<br />
very own table and<br />
a good selection of<br />
wines by the glass. The<br />
food includes tasty<br />
pizzas and focaccias<br />
fresh from the oven.<br />
UP TO €30 Mikado<br />
(9 Rue de l’Ancien Port,<br />
tel: 022 732 4774)<br />
Sushi galore, as well<br />
as fresh sashimi and<br />
delicious Japanese<br />
salads and hot dishes,<br />
make Mikado a<br />
popular lunch spot<br />
with Geneva locals. It’s<br />
also handy for a quick<br />
bite before hitting<br />
the bars of Paquis.<br />
UP TO €50 L’Opera<br />
Bouff e (5 Avenue de<br />
Frontenex, tel: 022<br />
736 6300) Opulently<br />
decorated in French<br />
theatrical style with<br />
gold cherubs on the<br />
walls, this restaurant<br />
is quite a discovery.<br />
Tender steaks are<br />
served alongside<br />
dauphinoise potatoes<br />
and some truffl escented<br />
specialities.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Coupole (15 Rue<br />
Pierre Fatio, tel: 022<br />
787 5010) A longestablished<br />
landmark<br />
in Geneva’s centre,<br />
La Coupole is an<br />
old-fashioned delight.<br />
Their fi lets de perche<br />
with lemony sauce are<br />
almost unrivalled, while<br />
the skinny chips are<br />
to die for. Try the sinful<br />
desserts, which are well<br />
worth the indulgence<br />
and a fi ne fi nale to a<br />
typically Swiss meal.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Martel<br />
Tearoom (16 Rue de<br />
Cornavin, tel: 022 732<br />
4038) If you’ve got a<br />
train to catch or you<br />
need to rest weary<br />
feet after shopping,<br />
Martel is one of<br />
Geneva’s best known<br />
tea rooms. Choose<br />
from a selection of<br />
teas, coff ees and hot<br />
chocolate, perhaps<br />
accompanied by<br />
a slice of cake.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Le<br />
Kab de l’Usine (4<br />
Place des Volontaires,<br />
tel: 022 781 4057) As<br />
part of the cultural<br />
collective l’Usine, Le<br />
Kab is situated in a<br />
former factory. All<br />
manner of bands play<br />
here, but there’s one<br />
requirement: it has<br />
to be loud. Punk rock,<br />
funk and pure pop are<br />
often on the bill.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Krystal (11 Rue<br />
du Prince, tel: 022 311<br />
0015) Glitzy and glam<br />
rather than cuttingedge<br />
cool, Le Krystal<br />
is great for a fun night<br />
out, dancing to fl oorfi<br />
lling club tunes while<br />
sipping exotic cocktails<br />
and designer beers. Be<br />
prepared for a clientele<br />
that likes dressing up.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Franz Carl<br />
Weber is a treasure<br />
trove for children. This<br />
Swiss toy emporium<br />
has everything<br />
from Hello Kitty to<br />
Playmobil and Lego.<br />
Also has an adorable<br />
selection of life-like<br />
stuff ed animals (12<br />
Rue de la Croix d’Or).<br />
SEE Taking science<br />
boffi ns and beginners<br />
alike on a journey<br />
from the Big Bang, the<br />
Universe of Particles<br />
exhibition is an eyeopening<br />
experience<br />
set within the Globe<br />
of Science and<br />
Innovation at CERN<br />
(385 Route de Meyrin).<br />
GO Well worth a<br />
wander, the residential<br />
area Chêne-Bougeries<br />
on the edge of the<br />
Geneva countryside<br />
is characterised by<br />
long streets lined<br />
with grand houses,<br />
attractive shops and<br />
local eateries.<br />
ESCAPE Nendaz<br />
is usually known for<br />
snowy pistes, not<br />
battling cows, but<br />
from 5–6 May you can<br />
see the indigenous<br />
Hérens cows fi ghting<br />
to become the Queen<br />
cow, and respected<br />
throughout the year<br />
(Aproz, nendaz.ch).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Geneva has more than<br />
1,000 restaurants,<br />
which is more per<br />
capita than New York.<br />
Laura Mathew
COME AND LIVE IN SWITZERLAND<br />
Specialising in Finding Properties,<br />
Relocation, Property Development<br />
PROPERTY OF THE MONTH<br />
Spacious apartment in the heart of<br />
Villars. Shopping, schools, train and ski<br />
lifts only minutes away by foot.<br />
3 bedrooms with 171m 2 of fl oor space,<br />
large open living area 67m 2 , large<br />
balcony 24m 2 , quiet location.<br />
CHF 1,550,000<br />
Contact Alan Johnston:<br />
+41 79466 3000, alan@swissresidential.ch<br />
Select Properties Prime Locations<br />
www.swissresidential.ch<br />
50th Anniversary<br />
GENEVA ENGLISH SCHOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Co-education age 4-11.<br />
<br />
www.geneva-english-school.ch<br />
e-mail: admin@geschool.ch tel: 0041 (0)22 755 18 55<br />
ENJOY SWISS TRAILS<br />
AT YOUR OWN PACE,<br />
SPEED AND BUDGET!<br />
More than 700 accommodations, 6 standards<br />
from camping to top class hotels<br />
Extensive bike rental offers: hybrid bikes,<br />
racing bikes,<br />
mountain bikes,<br />
children sizes,<br />
e-bikes<br />
NEW: rent a top<br />
e-bike from<br />
IMPULS or FLYER<br />
All bike rentals<br />
also one way<br />
possible<br />
T +41 (0)43 422 60 22<br />
WWW.SWISSTRAILS.CH
132 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Gibraltar<br />
UK Territory<br />
DIALLING CODE +350<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £5.<br />
Routes 3, 9 and<br />
10 run every 10<br />
minutes. Tickets: £1.<br />
Visit the<br />
Europcar desk<br />
for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le Petit<br />
Cafe (Ocean Village,<br />
tel: 200 72 121) Enjoys<br />
a superb waterfront<br />
position at Ocean<br />
Village with a suitably<br />
informal atmosphere<br />
and a good choice of<br />
meals ranging from<br />
paella to coq au vin<br />
and from sandwiches<br />
and snacks.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Gauchos (Casemates,<br />
tel: 200 59700) With<br />
its wood-clad, cosy<br />
interior, this makes a<br />
great escape from the<br />
sun. Arrive with a big<br />
appetite as portions<br />
are huge. Aside from<br />
steaks, expect exotic<br />
delights such as<br />
salmon with grilled<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Making<br />
Waves<br />
All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />
in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />
offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />
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banana, juicy mango<br />
and delicious avocado.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Celebrity<br />
Wine Bar (Ocean<br />
Village, tel: 200 40972)<br />
The outside terrace<br />
at this sophisticated<br />
restaurant and wine<br />
bar is a popular<br />
place to start the<br />
evening with a long,<br />
cool cocktail before<br />
shimmying on to the<br />
nearby late-night bars.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Savannah Lounge<br />
(27 Leisure Island,<br />
Ocean Village, tel: 200<br />
66666) Cool music,<br />
moody lighting and<br />
killer cocktails make<br />
this a suitable party<br />
space, especially on<br />
Friday and Saturday<br />
nights when the<br />
clubbing vibe carries<br />
on until early morning.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO There is<br />
something very<br />
evocative about<br />
Trafalgar Cemetery,<br />
which was used for<br />
burials between<br />
1798 and 1814, and<br />
subsequently fell into<br />
disuse. Buried here are<br />
victims of sea battles<br />
of the Napoleonic<br />
Wars – including the<br />
Battle of Trafalgar.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Strait is a<br />
wonderful place for<br />
ornithological study,<br />
with year-round<br />
migration of literally<br />
hundreds of species<br />
of birds and maximum<br />
activity in the spring.<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
Glasgow<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Belfast,<br />
Berlin, Bristol, Faro,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Jersey,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Málaga,<br />
Majorca, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £20.<br />
Arriva Glasgow<br />
Flyer Bus<br />
leaves every<br />
10 minutes. Tickets:<br />
£4.50 single; £6.50<br />
open return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 The<br />
Chippy Doon the<br />
Lane (84 Buchanan<br />
Street, tel: 0141 225<br />
5617) Casual dining at<br />
its very best, serving up<br />
monkfi sh and lobster,<br />
alongside traditional<br />
cod and haddock. Dine<br />
out on the fi nest wine<br />
and champagne at very<br />
reasonable prices.<br />
UP TO €30 Black<br />
Sheep Bistro (10<br />
Clarendon Street, tel:<br />
0141 333 1435) Newly<br />
opened bistro that has<br />
really made a very big<br />
impact on food lovers.<br />
It’s family run and a<br />
hidden gem. The food<br />
is simply delicious, with<br />
lots of home cooking on<br />
the menu, and it boasts<br />
friendly, attentive staff .<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Citation Taverne<br />
(40 Wilson Street, tel:<br />
0141 559 6799) This<br />
excellent restaurant<br />
in the former Sheriff<br />
Court building<br />
has retained its<br />
traditional features<br />
– a grandiose façade<br />
with Corinthian-style<br />
pillars. You’ll fi nd<br />
meals to suit all<br />
pockets on the varied<br />
and extensive menus.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Gandolfi Fish (84–86<br />
Albion Street, tel: 0141<br />
552 9475) Expect<br />
wonderful fresh<br />
Scottish mackerel,<br />
lobster and crab,<br />
with dishes such as<br />
seafood bisque, Cullen<br />
skink, fi sh cakes and<br />
smoked salmon. Much<br />
of the fresh produce is<br />
sourced from Barra.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Petite (250 Bath<br />
Street, tel: 0141 332<br />
2732) Bar Petite is<br />
a fresh and funky<br />
addition to the bustling<br />
bar scene. Expect an<br />
intimate atmosphere<br />
for drinks, tasty snacks<br />
and great music, with<br />
an emphasis on funk.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Blackfriars (36 Bell<br />
Street, tel: 0141 552<br />
5924) One of the<br />
more traditional pubs,<br />
Blackfriars boasts<br />
a huge range of world<br />
beers. It is fi rmly<br />
established as a quality<br />
Real Ale and Craft Beer<br />
pub with live music<br />
most nights, from soul<br />
and country to rock<br />
and unsigned bands.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kushion (158–166<br />
Bath Street, tel: 0845<br />
166 6031) Kushion<br />
is a trendy bar and<br />
nightclub with stylish<br />
and modern interior.<br />
Atmosphere is upbeat<br />
and friendly as topnotch<br />
DJs keep things<br />
moving along apace.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Style Mile<br />
Glasgow is one<br />
square mile housing<br />
a concentration of<br />
inspirational shopping,<br />
cafés, restaurants<br />
and late-night haunts.<br />
Argyle Street, St Enoch<br />
Centre, Merchant<br />
City, Ingram Street,<br />
Buchanan Street, Royal<br />
Exchange Square.<br />
Late-night shopping<br />
Thursday nights.<br />
GRAND<br />
CENTRAL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
A £20 million<br />
refurbishment has<br />
done wonders for<br />
this luxury hotel –<br />
which dates back<br />
to 1883. From<br />
€96, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />
and cannot take it with you, visit<br />
traveller.‰.com<br />
.com<br />
SEE Scottish Opera’s<br />
Tosca is held at the<br />
Theatre Royal on<br />
dates from 4–12<br />
May. With plenty of<br />
periphery shows to<br />
accompany the main<br />
event, which sees<br />
Spanish tenor José<br />
Ferrero, making his<br />
Scottish Opera debut<br />
(282 Hope Street).<br />
GO Visit Scotland’s<br />
National Stadium<br />
– The Hampden<br />
Experience reveals<br />
the sights, sounds<br />
and stories of the<br />
world’s favourite<br />
game. Around 2,500<br />
exhibits on display in<br />
14 galleries. Experience<br />
the Stadium Tour<br />
and the Hall of Fame<br />
(tel: 0141 616 6139,<br />
scottishfootball<br />
museum.org.uk).<br />
ESCAPE Stirling<br />
is the gateway to<br />
the Highlands and<br />
also home to Stirling<br />
Castle, the William<br />
Wallace monument,<br />
the Old Town Jail and<br />
the Bannockburn<br />
Heritage Centre, where<br />
you can experience<br />
life behind bards<br />
in a 19th-century<br />
prison and relive<br />
Scotland’s victory at<br />
Bannockburn. It’s all<br />
just a short train ride<br />
from Glasgow Queen<br />
Street Station.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Boys’ Brigade<br />
movement was<br />
started in Glasgow in<br />
1883 by Sir William<br />
Alexander Smith. Now<br />
it has half a million<br />
members worldwide.<br />
Evelyn McKechnie
134 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Gran Canaria<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Route 60 runs<br />
from 6.50am–<br />
11.05pm. Tickets:<br />
€2.50 (Parque Santa<br />
Catalina); €1.95<br />
(Parque San Telmo).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Cafe Ma Bakers<br />
(Passerella Centre,<br />
Top Floor, Puerto<br />
Escala, Puerto Rico,<br />
tel: 65 487 7423)<br />
Off ering great<br />
inexpensive food, Cafe<br />
Ma Bakers specialises<br />
in pies, pasties and<br />
cakes. Enjoy lunch<br />
overlooking the<br />
harbour or order a<br />
takeaway lunch box<br />
for a day trip.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Grill<br />
Costa Mar (8 Calle<br />
Juan Rodriguez, tel:<br />
928 562 017) Enjoy<br />
fabulous views of<br />
the port as you dine<br />
on delicious, fresh<br />
fi sh in this small,<br />
family-run business.<br />
Try the amazing mixed<br />
grill of seafood and<br />
fi sh topped with a<br />
delicious garlic sauce.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Relax<br />
Rock Pub (194 Centro<br />
Comercial Kasbah)<br />
A small, friendly bar<br />
that specialises in<br />
rock, hard rock, heavy<br />
metal, punk, power<br />
metal, nu metal and<br />
gothic metal.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Bulldog (Avenida<br />
Tirajana) A fun night<br />
awaits all the family<br />
in this lively karaoke<br />
bar, which features<br />
mad staff and a great<br />
atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The pretty village<br />
of Puerto de Mogan<br />
consists of a profusion<br />
of colourful small<br />
houses bursting with<br />
bougainvillea, palm<br />
trees, bird-of-paradise<br />
fl owers, hibiscus<br />
and other glorious<br />
plants. Built around<br />
a marina and fi shing<br />
harbour, lined with<br />
bars, restaurants<br />
and shops, Mogan<br />
has been named<br />
the “Venice of<br />
the Canaries”.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Hotel Santa<br />
Catalina has played<br />
host to many<br />
legendary guests<br />
including Agatha<br />
Christie and<br />
Buzz Aldrin.<br />
Jan Cooney/<br />
elsunnews.com<br />
Hamburg<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Manchester, London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
S1 S-Bahn trains<br />
run from 4.29am<br />
until midnight, every<br />
10 minutes.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Drei Tageszeiten<br />
(29 Mülenkamp)<br />
A mainstay of the<br />
upscale Mülenkamp<br />
neighbourhood, this<br />
ARCADIA<br />
BELMONDO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Close to the main<br />
station, this is an<br />
excellent, aff ordable<br />
crashpad for<br />
comfort and<br />
convenience. From<br />
€55 a night. Book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
stylish bistro features<br />
a seasonally fresh,<br />
international menu.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Alt-Hamburger<br />
Aalspeicher (43<br />
Deichstrasse, tel: 040<br />
362 990) An institution<br />
housed in a 16thcentury<br />
building on the<br />
city’s oldest surviving<br />
canal-side byway, this<br />
family-run restaurant<br />
boasts traditional local<br />
dishes without equal.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
SternChance (7<br />
Schröderstiftstr, tel:<br />
040 4301168) This<br />
charming beer garden<br />
is fl anked by lily ponds<br />
and a large indoor hall<br />
anchored by a roaring<br />
fi replace where the<br />
literati peruse papers.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Sommerterrassen<br />
(44 Südring, tel:<br />
040 270 6274) Few<br />
places are as relaxing<br />
or atmospheric –<br />
especially on warm<br />
summer nights – as<br />
this beer garden, which<br />
overlooks the tidal<br />
basin on the south side<br />
of Stadtpark.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Harbour<br />
Festival celebrates<br />
marine life with a<br />
three-day land-and-sea<br />
extravaganza featuring<br />
300 vessels ranging<br />
from steam ships to<br />
yachts on 11–13 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Hamburg is well known<br />
as being Germany’s<br />
musical capital.<br />
Farhad Heydari<br />
Hurghada<br />
Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Sakalla is<br />
about EGP20, El Dahar<br />
EGP25, and further<br />
afi eld EGP35–EGP50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
GAD (Sheraton Rd,<br />
opp Regina Style Hotel<br />
and Village Road)<br />
Egypt’s fast-growing<br />
chain of restaurants<br />
off ers a wide range<br />
of local fl avours from<br />
as little as 1.50EGP<br />
for a falafel sandwich.<br />
Menus in English and<br />
very helpful staff . Eat<br />
in or takeaway.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tuscany Restaurant<br />
(Hurghada Marriott<br />
Beach Resort, El<br />
Corniche Road, tel:<br />
065 344 6950) A<br />
fi ne-dining experience<br />
overlooking the<br />
Marriott gardens and<br />
marina. The carpaccio<br />
beef, duck in orange<br />
sauce and surf ‘n’<br />
turf are house<br />
specials, but if the<br />
lamb chops are on the<br />
menu, go for it! Book<br />
ahead. Indoor and<br />
terrace seating<br />
with good views.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Shade<br />
Bar & Grill (Hurghada<br />
International Marina<br />
Boulevard) Perfect<br />
spot to start your<br />
evening – relax on a<br />
beanbag with views<br />
over the Marina, sip<br />
a cold beer and plan<br />
the night – stay on for<br />
dinner and music later.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Star Bar (Hurghada<br />
International Marina<br />
Boulevard, tel: ) Every<br />
Thursday evening, see<br />
live music starting at<br />
9.30pm and going on<br />
late into the night –<br />
great food, full bar and<br />
a lively atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Every year,<br />
Hurghada’s skies are<br />
fi lled with storks on<br />
their migration. Many<br />
hundreds at a time can<br />
be seen circling in the<br />
thermals and coming<br />
to rest on outcrops<br />
and desert fl ats.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Construction of<br />
Hurghada’s new<br />
airport terminal is<br />
coming on in leaps<br />
and bounds. With a<br />
yearly capacity of 7.5<br />
million, it will boast 11<br />
aircraft bridges plus<br />
nine normal gates.<br />
Due for completion<br />
early 2013.<br />
Denise Fletcher<br />
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136 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Ibiza<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Berlin,<br />
Belfast, Bilbao, Bristol,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, SEN,<br />
STN), Lyon. Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />
Newcastle, Paros<br />
(CDG), Rome, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15<br />
to Ibiza Town and €25<br />
San Antonio.<br />
Buses leave from<br />
7am–11.50pm.<br />
Tickets: €1.25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Can<br />
Tixedo (Carretera<br />
Santa Ines, Sant<br />
Antoni de Portmany,<br />
tel: 971 345 248) Head<br />
to this charming art<br />
café in real Ibiza for a<br />
breakfast or lunch of<br />
homemade tapas and<br />
dinner when you can<br />
sample the delights of<br />
their wine cellar.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Villa<br />
Mercedes (Paseo<br />
del Mar, San Antonio,<br />
tel: 971 348 543) This<br />
transformed traditional<br />
Ibicencan house off ers<br />
a spectacular view,<br />
romantic ambience<br />
and impeccable<br />
Mediterranean cooking<br />
with a twist.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY KM5<br />
(Road to Sant Josep,<br />
5km, tel: 971 396 349)<br />
Roam around the fi ve<br />
rooms, which each<br />
off er a completely<br />
diff erent vibe with<br />
music ranging from<br />
house to hip hop.<br />
The main room hosts<br />
some of the world’s<br />
best DJs and parties.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Eden (Calle Salvador<br />
de Espritu, San<br />
Antonio) One of the<br />
hottest clubs in San<br />
An. The highly popular<br />
Judgment Sundays<br />
event is a particular<br />
draw in the summer<br />
season – be prepared<br />
to dance all night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Head to the<br />
Ushuaia Beach Hotel<br />
where, on 26 May,<br />
Luciano and friends will<br />
kick start the summer<br />
season around their<br />
impressive pool area.<br />
Stick around because<br />
the very next day<br />
will see Fatboy Slim<br />
entertain the crowds.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
At the southernmost<br />
tip of the island lie the<br />
Las Salinas salt fl ats,<br />
which sparkle during<br />
the hotter period<br />
and are beautiful to<br />
photograph at sunset.<br />
Katy Gillett<br />
Inverness<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £20.<br />
Jet buses<br />
run every 30<br />
minutes to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: £3.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Café<br />
Artysans (7 Strothers<br />
Lane, tel: 01463 729<br />
793) Artysans might<br />
be a new venture, but<br />
it has already proven<br />
that it is no tyro after<br />
winning the Highlands<br />
and Islands Food and<br />
Drink award 2011.<br />
Its original take on a<br />
traditional Scottish<br />
favourite – Cullen<br />
Skink risotto – has<br />
won particular praise.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Clachnaharry Inn<br />
(17–19 High Street,<br />
Clachnaharry, tel:<br />
01463 239 806) The<br />
Clachnaharry Inn<br />
serves real ales and<br />
traditional dishes in<br />
homely surroundings.<br />
This traditional little<br />
pub off ers a good time<br />
without any nonsense.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Hootanannys (67<br />
Church Street, tel:<br />
01463 233651) Forget<br />
a quiet nightcap,<br />
Hootanannys will<br />
have you dancing<br />
right through to the<br />
wee hours. With a mix<br />
of genres from rock,<br />
indie, ceilidh, folk and<br />
many more.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Loch Ness is<br />
truly vast: at 37km<br />
long, it contains more<br />
freshwater than all the<br />
lakes in England and<br />
Wales combined. Take<br />
an informative cruise<br />
(Tomnahurich Bridge,<br />
tel: 01463 233 999).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Inverness was a winner<br />
of the “Most Beautiful<br />
Large Town” award of<br />
Britain in Bloom.<br />
Beverley Tricker<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
The Kitchen (15<br />
Huntly Street, tel:<br />
01463 259 119)<br />
The Kitchen uses<br />
the fi nest locally<br />
sourced ingredients<br />
to create an exciting<br />
contemporary<br />
Scottish menu.<br />
Isle of Man<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £18.<br />
Buses run<br />
every half an<br />
hour. Adult single to<br />
Douglas £2.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Glen<br />
Helen Inn (Glen<br />
Helen, St John’s,<br />
tel: 01624 801 294)<br />
The wide-ranging<br />
traditional menu at<br />
this countryside inn,<br />
set in a picturesque<br />
glen, leaves diners<br />
spoilt for choice.<br />
Solve the dilemma<br />
by ordering from the<br />
daily specials board.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tanroagan (9<br />
Ridgeway Street,<br />
Douglas, tel: 01624<br />
612 355) BBC cooking<br />
duo The Hairy Bikers<br />
have sampled the<br />
delicious seafood<br />
at this family-run<br />
restaurant. Order off<br />
the specials board,<br />
which could include<br />
freshly caught local<br />
lobster with lemon<br />
butter sautéed<br />
Manx queenies<br />
(queen scallops).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
The Rover’s Return<br />
(11 Church Street)<br />
Arriving in the Isle of<br />
Man feels as though<br />
you are stepping<br />
back in time a little,<br />
so it would only be<br />
appropriate to head<br />
for a pint of ale. This<br />
pub serves the local<br />
Bushy’s brew.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bushy’s beer tent<br />
(Loch Promenade,<br />
tel: 01624 611 101)<br />
The Manx brewery’s<br />
temporary tent on<br />
Douglas promenade<br />
caters for thousands<br />
of thirsty bikers and<br />
locals from noon til<br />
midnight during the<br />
TT races. There is live<br />
music every night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE More than a<br />
hundred of years<br />
of history combine<br />
with modern<br />
motorbikes travelling<br />
at breakneck speeds<br />
to create the special<br />
atmosphere of the<br />
island’s world-famous<br />
annual TT Races, held<br />
over the 60 kilometre<br />
Mountain Course<br />
(26 May–8 June,<br />
iomtt.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
One of the island’s<br />
traditional recipes<br />
is Manx bonnag<br />
– a sweet bread.<br />
Kate Youde
DOLMEN<br />
Dolmen Resort Hotels is a new hotel group<br />
in Salento combining architectural heritage,<br />
culture and cuisine.<br />
2 of the current active facilities include Perla<br />
Hotel, Casalabate Lecce, located in the<br />
Mediterranean coast of Salento and Hotel<br />
A Due Passi dal Pizzo Gallipoli, located on<br />
the coastal belt of the Ionian Sea; both<br />
high-impact holidays.<br />
Contact us:<br />
E-mail: booking@dolmenresorthotels.it<br />
Tel: +39.0832.389140 | www.dolmenresorthotels.it
138 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Istanbul<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY Lira (TRY)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs TRY50.<br />
E3 buses run to<br />
4 Levent, from<br />
there take the metro.<br />
Tickets: TRY4.50.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
EXCLUSIVE Miss<br />
Pizza (86 Mesrutiyet<br />
Caddesi, Sishane,<br />
Beyoglu, tel: 0212<br />
251 3234) A-la-mode<br />
hang-out, perfect for<br />
people watching. The<br />
pizza isn’t bad either –<br />
especailly the artichoke<br />
topping. Reservations<br />
essential at weekends.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Good<br />
Mood Pera (107<br />
Mesrutiyet Caddesi,<br />
Sishane, Beyoglu,<br />
tel: 0212 245<br />
0050) Swish new<br />
bar-restaurant in a<br />
recently renovated<br />
historical apartment<br />
building. Open until<br />
4am, reservations<br />
essential at weekends.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Jolly Joker Balans<br />
(22 Balo Sokak,<br />
Beyoglu, tel: 0212 249<br />
0749) Regular live<br />
music, DJ sets and<br />
party nights pack out<br />
this popular venue.<br />
Order a real ale from<br />
the adjoining brew<br />
pub and listen to<br />
the best of Turkish<br />
rock and pop.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE From 10 May<br />
until 5 June the 18th<br />
Istanbul International<br />
Theatre Festival<br />
returns to town,<br />
featuring theatre and<br />
dance performances<br />
from around the world<br />
(tiyatro.iksv.org).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The two giant<br />
rocks that stand on<br />
either side of the<br />
northern mouth of<br />
the Bosphorus are<br />
reckoned to be the<br />
Symplegades, or<br />
“clashing rocks”, in<br />
the story of Jason and<br />
the Argonauts.<br />
David O’Byrne<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Zindan (13 Olivia<br />
Han Gecidi, Istiklal<br />
Caddesi, Beyoglu,<br />
tel: 0212 252 7340)<br />
This antique-fi lled<br />
cellar restaurant has<br />
ambience in spades.<br />
Not to mention a<br />
great-value €5 lunch.<br />
Izmir<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY Lira (TRY)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs 40TRY<br />
The Havas bus<br />
goes to the city<br />
centre every half hour.<br />
Tickets: 10TRY single<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Tyna<br />
(Ali Çetinkaya Bulvarı<br />
No:5, Alsancak, tel:<br />
0232 422 51 51) This<br />
pizzeria and café on<br />
a small pedestrian<br />
square is popular<br />
both for its food and<br />
its inexpensive beer.<br />
You could do worse<br />
than while away an<br />
afternoon peoplewatching<br />
here.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Asansor (Dario<br />
Moreno Sokagi, tel:<br />
0232 2612662)<br />
Set at the top of a<br />
20th-century elevator<br />
formerly used to<br />
move cargo and now a<br />
favourite spot among<br />
locals, the view from<br />
here is stunning.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Sir<br />
Winston Tea House<br />
(Dr Mustafa Bey<br />
Enver Caddesi No 20,<br />
tel: 0232 421 8861)<br />
Located on a long<br />
street dotted with<br />
cafés, Sir Winston<br />
is the most popular,<br />
serving up speciality<br />
teas, coff ees and beer<br />
alongside delicious<br />
fresh sandwiches.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Sardunya’s (1453<br />
Sok, No:12 Gazi<br />
Kadinlar, Sokagi<br />
Alsansak, tel: 0232<br />
465 3276) This<br />
popular bar is a<br />
meet-up spot for<br />
couchsurfers and<br />
attracts a young,<br />
hip crowd. Make<br />
reservations for the<br />
must-see Mondaynight<br />
live jazz.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Izmir’s Wildlife<br />
Park is known<br />
throughout the<br />
country, both for<br />
its animals such as<br />
the beautiful Asian<br />
elephant and the fastas-lightening<br />
puma,<br />
and also for holding<br />
several rare species<br />
of birds (Izmir<br />
Dogal Yasam Parki,<br />
tel: 0232 327 3016,<br />
izmir.bel.tr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Izmir region is<br />
home to three of<br />
the Seven Churches<br />
of the Apocalypse.<br />
One each is located<br />
in Ephesus and<br />
Pergamon, and the<br />
third was in Izmir<br />
itself, at what is<br />
now the site of the<br />
ancient agora.<br />
Barbara Isenberg<br />
Sitting S comfortably?<br />
Jersey<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Glasgow,<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (SEN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £16.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Wheatlands<br />
Gastropub (Le Mont<br />
des Grupieaux, St<br />
Peter, tel: 01534 888<br />
877) Adjacent to a golf<br />
course, the Wheatlands<br />
Gastropub off ers goodvalue<br />
snacks and meals.<br />
Try the Jersey crab<br />
bisque (£3.95), followed<br />
by pan-fried skate wing<br />
with herb butter and<br />
new potatoes (£8.95).<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Cheffi ns Restaurant<br />
(La Neuve Route, St<br />
Aubin, tel: 01534 747<br />
118) Surrounded by<br />
popular restaurants,<br />
Cheffi ns is one of<br />
the most popular in<br />
St Aubin. Recently<br />
refurbished, the<br />
restaurant has an<br />
international menu,<br />
specialising in seafood.<br />
advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
Other standouts<br />
include Portuguese<br />
bacalhau fi sh cakes<br />
and lamb-shank<br />
cassoulet with<br />
Toulouse sausage.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Rozel<br />
Bar and Restaurant<br />
(La Vallee de Rozel, St<br />
Martin, tel: 01534 863<br />
438) There are two<br />
bars, a restaurant and<br />
outside decking and<br />
a beer garden at this<br />
cosy pub at the bottom<br />
of Rozel Valley. Plenty<br />
of real ale for the beer<br />
enthusiasts, but also a<br />
place to sip cocktails<br />
on a spring evening.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Rojo’s (10 Bond Street,<br />
St Helier, tel: 01534<br />
729 904) Look out<br />
for Rojo’s Speakeasy<br />
nights on Thursdays<br />
when there are live<br />
performances at this<br />
cocktail bar-nightclub<br />
showcasing the best<br />
of jazz and swing.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Sark, which is an<br />
hour’s boat journey<br />
from St Helier, looks<br />
stunning at this time of<br />
the year and interesting<br />
at any time. There are<br />
no cars, but 600 people<br />
still lead comfortable<br />
lives on the tiny island.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Formula One racing<br />
champion Nigel<br />
Mansell, who lives in<br />
Jersey, is setting up<br />
an F1 museum on<br />
the island which will<br />
include several of his<br />
Grand Prix cars.<br />
Peter Body<br />
Imagine over<br />
5 million people looking<br />
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />
Make ppart<br />
of your plan today<br />
150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/2011 15:01
There are still places<br />
where you can experience<br />
the pleasure and thrill<br />
of unpackaged discovery...<br />
Book any room for a minimum 4 nights’ stay and<br />
receive a spectacular discount of 30% off the official<br />
room rates (Quote ref. EJET30SUM12). Not valid in<br />
conjunction with any other offer or promotion.<br />
EMELISSE HOTEL<br />
Fiskardo, Kefalonia - Greece<br />
Tel.: +30 26740 41200, Fax: +30 26740 41026<br />
www.emelissehotel.com<br />
PERANTZADA... 1811<br />
Vathi, Ithaki - Greece<br />
Tel.: +30 26740 33496, Fax: +30 26740 33493<br />
www.perantzadahotel.com<br />
One of the hottest spots in<br />
<br />
Located right in the heart of Reykjavik, Café Paris is the<br />
place to be! Whether you meet friends or family for breakfast,<br />
brunch, dinner or cocktails, you will experience the true<br />
Icelandic atmosphere in which locals and tourists mingle.<br />
We also have live jazz on weekends. Th e nightlife<br />
in Reykjavik is colourful and so are our cocktails!<br />
10% discount<br />
off your bill<br />
101 Reykjavik, Iceland<br />
T. +354 551 1020<br />
E. cafeparis@cafeparis.is<br />
www.cafeparis.is<br />
You have not visited Rey kjavik until you have visited Café Paris!
140 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Kefalonia<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Akrogiali (Lixouri,<br />
tel: 26710 92613)<br />
One of the bestvalue<br />
restaurants<br />
in the Ionians, this<br />
friendly seafront<br />
establishment<br />
serves up an array of<br />
delicious oven-baked<br />
dishes, as well as<br />
grilled meat and fi sh.<br />
The superb local<br />
barrelled wine is<br />
great value too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Lord<br />
Falcon (Fiskardo, tel:<br />
26740 41072) Tucked<br />
inside Fiskardo’s<br />
picturesque harbour,<br />
you’ll fi nd the Ionians’<br />
fi rst Thai restaurant.<br />
The carefully prepared<br />
and authentic cuisine<br />
ranges from stir fries<br />
to curries and tangy<br />
salads – it all makes<br />
for a refreshingly spicy<br />
change from the usual<br />
Greek classics.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cozy<br />
(Kato Katelios, tel:<br />
26710 81031) Snug<br />
little bar with a<br />
welcoming interior<br />
and some seating<br />
out by the edge of<br />
the quay. Good for<br />
a daytime coff ee or<br />
early evening tipple to<br />
some laidback rock or<br />
ethnic sounds.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bass (P Valianou,<br />
Argostoli, tel: 26710<br />
25020) Argostoli’s<br />
hottest nightclub,<br />
with a spacious, airconditioned,<br />
hi-tech<br />
interior opposite<br />
the archeological<br />
museum, attracts an<br />
equal mix of locals<br />
and foreigners with its<br />
nightly menu of trance<br />
and dance hits.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE On the days<br />
around 21 May, there<br />
are various events<br />
and a procession in<br />
the capital Argostoli to<br />
celebrate the offi cial<br />
unifi cation of the<br />
Ionian Islands in 1864.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
It has been proven<br />
using coloured dye<br />
that seawater from<br />
the sinkholes known<br />
as Katavothres, just<br />
outside the capital<br />
Argostoli, fl ows<br />
underneath the island<br />
and surfaces on the<br />
other side in the<br />
Melissani caves<br />
over 30km away.<br />
Nick Edwards<br />
Kos<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €38.<br />
Up to six buses<br />
depart from the<br />
airport to Kos Town.<br />
Tickets: €3.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Ambavris (Ambavris<br />
Hamlet, tel: 22420<br />
25696) Warmer<br />
weather signals the<br />
opening of courtyard<br />
seating at this<br />
converted taverna,<br />
only open at night.<br />
The famous mezze<br />
relay <strong>may</strong> include<br />
pikthí (brawn), stuff ed<br />
courgette blossoms,<br />
spicy sausages or<br />
fava bean dip.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Law<br />
Court Café (Vassileos<br />
Georgiou Avenue)<br />
Within sight of<br />
Hippocrates’ plane<br />
tree, this café hidden<br />
under arches invites<br />
visitors with beer<br />
and properly brewed<br />
coff ee at modest<br />
prices for the location.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Mylos (Akti Zouroudi,<br />
Lamb) By day, this<br />
musical beach-café<br />
housed in a converted<br />
windmill hosts<br />
volleyball; after dark,<br />
the pace steadily<br />
ramps up with either<br />
live music or DJ-fuelled<br />
events until sunrise.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The galleried<br />
undercroft of Kos<br />
Town’s secondcentury<br />
odeon has<br />
been restored and<br />
illuminated as a minimuseum<br />
on Roman<br />
odeia with extensive<br />
displays and a video.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The middle of Kos is<br />
so low-lying that from<br />
Kálymnos island to<br />
the north, you can see<br />
the peak of Níssyros<br />
islet south of Kos.<br />
Marc Dubin<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
H2O (7 Vasileos<br />
Georgiou, tel: 22420<br />
472 000) After dark<br />
H20’s fusion menu<br />
features shrimp<br />
tempura, risotto and<br />
grilled mains. The<br />
waterside seating is<br />
much sought after.<br />
YO YOU WANT IT, , WE GO GOT IT!<br />
WHETHER LAST MINUTE OR PEAK SEASON, WE ALWAYS<br />
GUARANTEE AVAILABILITY WHEN YOU BOOK ONLINE.<br />
Krakow<br />
Poland<br />
DIALLING CODE +48<br />
CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast (BFS),<br />
Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about PLN80.<br />
Trains leave every<br />
30 minutes for<br />
the main station from<br />
4.24am–00.15am.<br />
Tickets: PLN6.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Trzy<br />
Papryczki Pizzeria<br />
(17 Ulica Poselska,<br />
tel: 012 292 5532)<br />
Squirrelled away down<br />
a side-street, The<br />
Three Peppers aces<br />
many of its Italian rivals<br />
thanks to a pleasant<br />
summer garden.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ancora (3 Ulica<br />
Dominikanska,<br />
tel: 012 357 3355)<br />
Ancora off ers a rather<br />
diff erent experience<br />
to the former<br />
recommendation. The<br />
decor is minimalist,<br />
and the cooking is<br />
determinedly modern,<br />
off ering light twists<br />
on Polish classics.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Camelot (17 Ulica<br />
Tomasza, tel: 012 423<br />
0638) With May under<br />
way, there’ll be a fi ght<br />
to snap up an outdoor<br />
table at this most<br />
popular nook in central<br />
town. If you have to<br />
make do with indoors,<br />
the consolation prizes<br />
are many – delicious<br />
cakes and delightful,<br />
light decor.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Klub Piekny Pies (6A<br />
Ulica Slawkowska)<br />
“The Beautiful Dog” is<br />
a self-consciously hip<br />
hangout that has been<br />
the crucible for many<br />
a hangover. Eclectic<br />
music and lots of<br />
arty characters.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE May sees<br />
the 10th edition of<br />
one of Krakow’s<br />
hippest cultural<br />
events – the Month of<br />
Photography. Expect<br />
plenty of foreign<br />
guests, as well as<br />
shows at galleries and<br />
cafés across town<br />
(photomonth.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Krakow is one of<br />
Europe’s oldest<br />
university cities,<br />
and once a year, the<br />
students are given<br />
the keys of the city, as<br />
well as carte blanche<br />
to sport fancy dress<br />
and get merry. The<br />
so-called Juwenalia<br />
shenanigans kick off<br />
on 14 May and ended<br />
on the 20th.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
cracow-life.com<br />
Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers<br />
great car rental deals. For your discounted<br />
price book at<br />
easyJet.com or visit<br />
the Europcar desk.
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
La Coruña<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Madrid<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
On weekdays,<br />
there are buses<br />
every half hour with<br />
several stops before the<br />
centre. From 7.15am to<br />
9.45pm. Tickets : €1.40.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Mantelería (3<br />
Mantelería, tel:<br />
981 893 633) Old,<br />
classic tavern-cometrendy<br />
tapas bar.<br />
Nice atmosphere,<br />
interesting wine-list<br />
and delicious tapas.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Alborada (25 Paseo<br />
Maritimo Alcalde<br />
Francisco Vazquez, tel:<br />
981 929 201) Here,<br />
you’ll fi nd top-notch<br />
Galician food to be<br />
enjoyed right in front<br />
of the ocean. One of<br />
the fi nest restaurants<br />
in town.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La<br />
Postrería (5 Plaza<br />
Santa Catalina, tel:<br />
981 916 067) You can<br />
do more here than<br />
just indulge in their<br />
desserts, as the name<br />
suggests. After dark<br />
enjoy La Postrería’s<br />
arty design and<br />
modern atmosphere<br />
while trying a cocktail.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
14! (13–15 San Vicente<br />
de Paul) In the heart of<br />
the Monte Alto district,<br />
this <strong>may</strong> look like any<br />
other bar, but listen<br />
carefully and you’ll<br />
hear why it stands out:<br />
the music selection is<br />
the fi nest around.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Get a magnifi cent<br />
view of the town<br />
embraced by the sea<br />
from the opposite<br />
side of the bay. Take<br />
the lift up to Monte de<br />
San Pedro and enjoy<br />
the view.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
From 16th–19th<br />
centuries La Coruña<br />
was the political<br />
capital of Galicia.<br />
Pablo Carballo<br />
EUROSTARS<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Pools of light from<br />
the bay and port<br />
fl ood the rooms and<br />
down in the Torremar<br />
retaurant the fi sh<br />
is the highlight.<br />
From €47, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Lamezia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Routes 4 and 5<br />
go to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Bussola (Viale G.<br />
Berto, Ricadi, tel:<br />
0963 663 226) Near<br />
the scenic town of<br />
Capo Vaticano, this<br />
hotel-restaurant<br />
specialises in<br />
traditional Calabrese<br />
seafood cuisine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante della<br />
Posta (Villaggio<br />
Mancuso, Taverna,<br />
tel: 0961 922033)<br />
Located in the heart<br />
of Sila Piccola in the<br />
small Alpine village<br />
of Villaggio Mancuso,<br />
Ristorante della<br />
Posta is a part of a<br />
romantic mountain<br />
resort. Try the porcini<br />
mushrooms plucked<br />
fresh from the woods<br />
surrounding this<br />
idyllic restaurant.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Il Globo<br />
(Centro Commerciale<br />
Due Mari, Maida, tel:<br />
0968 751 305) This is<br />
an excellent place to<br />
grab a gelato, crêpe<br />
or frozen yogurt<br />
any time of year – a<br />
surprisingly diffi cult<br />
feat in southern Italy<br />
outside of summer.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
L’Orso Cattivo<br />
(Bivio Martelletto,<br />
Settingiano, tel: 0961<br />
998 149) Along with<br />
great food (including<br />
pizza), this happening<br />
spot off ers internet<br />
access and live music,<br />
from a range of Italian<br />
and Latin American<br />
bands.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Murat Castle,<br />
named for Napoleon<br />
Bonaparte’s brotherin-law,<br />
Joachim Murat,<br />
who ruled Naples and<br />
was later executed<br />
in prison, is now a<br />
museum dedicated<br />
to the ruler’s life<br />
and death. From the<br />
museum there are<br />
amazing views of Pizzo<br />
and the Tyrrhenian<br />
Sea (Pizzo, province<br />
of Vibo Valentia).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Gianni Versace was<br />
born in Bagnara<br />
Calabra (Reggio<br />
Calabria) in 1946 and<br />
got his start in fashion<br />
as an apprentice to his<br />
dress-making mother.<br />
Cherrye Moore/<br />
my-bellavita.com<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 141<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Madrid<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €12.<br />
Routes 22 and<br />
23, buses stop at<br />
Playa del Reducto and<br />
Arrecife’s bus station,<br />
from 7am–10.25pm.<br />
Tickets: €1.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Sakura<br />
(106 Calle José Antonio<br />
Primo de Rivera,<br />
Arrecife, tel: 928 597<br />
637) This popular<br />
Japanese restaurant<br />
in Arrecife off ers<br />
exceptional value with<br />
its €15 all-you-can-eat<br />
conveyor-belt buff et.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Bodega de Uga (Uga,<br />
tel: 928 830 147) Set in<br />
delightful surroundings<br />
of ornamental fi g<br />
trees, Indian laurels<br />
and potted plants,<br />
this eatery is a bit<br />
special. Instead of<br />
a menu, the waiter<br />
asks a few questions<br />
about your tastes<br />
and then proceeds to<br />
bring mouth-watering<br />
dishes to the table for<br />
everyone to share.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Vino<br />
Blanco (Marina<br />
Rubicon, tel: 928 518<br />
200) Wine, cocktails,<br />
tapas, yachts and an<br />
enormous selection of<br />
gins at this chilled-out<br />
bar at the water’s<br />
edge of the gorgeous<br />
Marina Rubicon.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Charlie’s Bar (Centro<br />
Atlántico, Puerto del<br />
Carmen) Charlie’s<br />
Bar enjoys an almost<br />
legendary status<br />
amongst Lanzarote’s<br />
night-time venues.<br />
Resident band, Rory<br />
and the Island, play<br />
every night from<br />
11.15pm until 3.30am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The gruelling<br />
Ironman triathlon<br />
takes place on 19 May.<br />
Competitors must<br />
complete a 3.8km<br />
swim, then a 180km<br />
bicycle race followed<br />
by a 42.2km run all<br />
under the hot Canarian<br />
sunshine. The race<br />
starts at Playa Grande<br />
in Puerto del Carmen.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The jellyfi sh that<br />
closed beaches over<br />
the winter are just the<br />
latest in a series of<br />
irregular plagues that<br />
strike the island from<br />
time to time. In 2004,<br />
millions of locusts<br />
arrived from Africa!<br />
DiscoverLanzarote.com
142 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
La Rochelle<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, London<br />
(LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Buses leave<br />
every 15 minutes<br />
from 7am–7pm.<br />
Tickets: €1.30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Le Koi (42 Rue<br />
Saint-Jean-du-Perot,<br />
tel: 05 4628 2596)<br />
Japanese food is à la<br />
mode this summer<br />
in this town, and this<br />
sushi-and-salad bar<br />
is one of the best.<br />
It also has a great<br />
selection of wines<br />
from all over the<br />
world plus cocktails.<br />
Saki and sushi: what<br />
a great sunny<br />
day combination.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le 28<br />
(10 bis Quai Duperre,<br />
tel: 05 4629 6106)<br />
Eat oysters and enjoy<br />
the extensive wine list<br />
while gazing out over<br />
the port. The waiters<br />
will happily advise<br />
which to choose and<br />
the best wines to<br />
accompany them.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La Java<br />
des Paluches (12<br />
Rue Saint Nicolas,<br />
tel: 05 4630 5420)<br />
Because it’s well<br />
off the tourist trail,<br />
you can hang out<br />
here reading their<br />
magazines for as<br />
long as you like at<br />
this fashionable,<br />
brightly coloured bar.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Saoufe (12 Rue<br />
de Port, tel: 05 4641<br />
4696) The name<br />
means “How you<br />
doing?” and the<br />
atmosphere is really<br />
that friendly at this<br />
Creole cocktail bar<br />
with live music and<br />
open jam night<br />
for musicians<br />
on Tuesdays.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Festival<br />
International des<br />
Très Courts runs<br />
from 4–13 May and<br />
showcases ultrashort<br />
fi lms - only<br />
three minutes or<br />
less! The festival<br />
prides itself on<br />
discovering new<br />
talent long before<br />
Sundance (more<br />
info from the local<br />
tourist offi ce).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The city is connected<br />
to the Île de Ré by<br />
a 2.9km bridge – the<br />
longest in France<br />
– that was completed<br />
on 19 May, 1988.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Lille<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Nice, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Prebook your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
The Navette<br />
bus to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: €7.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Basilic<br />
Café (24 bis Rue<br />
Esquermoise, tel:<br />
03 2031 2147) This<br />
chic café serves<br />
modern world cuisine<br />
in serious portions<br />
and is popular with<br />
young professionals<br />
during the week and<br />
students at weekends.<br />
The sunny terrace is<br />
perfect for late brunch<br />
on a Sunday morning.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Laiterie (138 Avenue<br />
de l’Hippodrome,<br />
tel: 03 2092 7973)<br />
Just outside Lille in<br />
the small village of<br />
Lambersart, La Laiterie<br />
is a Michelin-starred<br />
restaurant headed by<br />
the new young chef<br />
Steven Ramon. Don’t<br />
miss the crumble of<br />
foie gras with hazelnuts<br />
or the lobster served in<br />
a champagne sauce.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La<br />
Capsule (25 Rue des<br />
Trois Mollettes, tel: 03<br />
2042 1475) This cosy<br />
bar in Vieux Lille has<br />
barely room for both<br />
clients and the huge<br />
range of beers served,<br />
most of which are<br />
brewed here or just<br />
over the Belgian border.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Café Oz (3 Place<br />
des Bettignies, tel:<br />
03 2055 1515) This<br />
buzzy bar has, as its<br />
name suggests, a good<br />
selection of antipodean<br />
beers, plus a selection<br />
of more local brews.<br />
Open until 3am with<br />
the latest sounds<br />
on tap.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Festival<br />
Wazemmes<br />
l’Accordéon draws<br />
the best players from<br />
northern France. There<br />
are daily concerts<br />
in the Maison Folie<br />
Wazemmes, with<br />
musicians of all ages<br />
playing everything<br />
from traditional<br />
tunes to the very<br />
latest contemporary<br />
arrangements, with a<br />
a free grand ball as the<br />
joyous fi nale (70 Rue<br />
des Sarrazins, 15–27<br />
May, fl onfl ons.eu).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The fi rst successful<br />
vaccine against TB<br />
was discovered at the<br />
Pasteur Institute in Lille<br />
in July 1921 by Albert<br />
Calmette and Camille<br />
Guérin and became<br />
known as the BCG.<br />
Nick Haslam<br />
Lisbon<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Asturias, Barcelona,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />
Bristol, Copenhagen,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Liverpool, London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Lyon, Madeira,<br />
Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (CDG), Rome,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €12.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
leaves every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €3.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 O<br />
Satélite (41 Largo<br />
da Graça, tel: 21<br />
886 2679) The best<br />
places to eat are<br />
often unpretentious<br />
neighbourhood<br />
restaurants such as<br />
this one. No prizes<br />
for decor, but friendly<br />
service and great fresh<br />
fi sh and crème brûlée<br />
more than make up.<br />
UP TO €30 Duck<br />
Tale (257 Rua da<br />
Escola Politécnica,<br />
tel: 96 710 4142) This<br />
tiny but tasteful holein-the-wall<br />
off ers a<br />
nice selection of daily<br />
oriental treats, always<br />
including something<br />
with duck. Friendly<br />
service, fresh food and<br />
a new take on the<br />
idea of fusion.<br />
UP TO €50 Tasca<br />
da Esquina (41C Rua<br />
Domingos Sequeira,<br />
tel: 21 099 3939) Now<br />
in its third year, this<br />
dining concept by<br />
renowned Portuguese<br />
chef Vitor Sobral works<br />
well; he off ers gourmet<br />
food at aff ordable<br />
prices in simple<br />
surroundings. You can<br />
choose from a variety<br />
of tasting menus or<br />
à la carte.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Casa da Comida<br />
(1 Travessa dos<br />
Amoreiras, Rato, tel:<br />
21 388 5376) Perhaps<br />
not for the health<br />
conscious, this is a<br />
great place for sheer<br />
indulgence. Treat<br />
yourself to roast<br />
TIVOLI ORIENTE<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Best for those doing<br />
business, this simple<br />
hotel is fi ve minutes<br />
from the airport in<br />
the business side<br />
of town. From<br />
€95, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.
144 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Lisbon<br />
Portugal<br />
kid, pheasant and<br />
seafood platters which<br />
will fi ll you up for days.<br />
Booking is essential<br />
for a table in the<br />
beautiful dining room<br />
or leafy courtyard on<br />
warmer evenings.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY A<br />
Brasileira (120 Rua<br />
Garrett, Chiado, tel: 21<br />
346 9541) Once the<br />
haunt of artists and<br />
intellectuals, this is<br />
the place to have your<br />
photo taken with the<br />
statue of modernist<br />
poet Fernando Pessoa<br />
as you sip your drink,<br />
listen to the buskers<br />
and watch life pass by.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Barthoven (41, Rua<br />
da Condessa, tel: 91<br />
260 7867) This is<br />
a new bar devoted<br />
to classical music.<br />
With live concerts on<br />
Fridays and Saturdays<br />
it promises to an<br />
unusual alternative<br />
to Lisbon’s already<br />
diverse nightlife. it<br />
serves a selection of<br />
cocktails and snacks<br />
and is open till 2am.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Clube Ferroviário (59<br />
Rua da Santa Apolónia,<br />
tel: 21 815 319617)<br />
An unexpected<br />
addition to Lisbon’s<br />
nightly off erings, this<br />
railwayman’s club,<br />
next to Santa Apolónia<br />
station, has live<br />
music and a terrifi c (if<br />
unusual) atmosphere.<br />
Open until 4am<br />
Thursday–Saturday.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Luzz Me is<br />
unique: a light shop<br />
specialising in all kinds<br />
of LED lights – not<br />
only lamps but a<br />
huge variety of other<br />
interesting things that<br />
can be lit up (68 Rua<br />
da Bica Duarte Belo).<br />
SEE At the São Carlos<br />
Opera House, Puccini’s<br />
La Rondine will be on<br />
stage from 17–25 May<br />
(tel: 21 325 3045); on<br />
the 26th, you can catch<br />
Smashing Pumpkins<br />
and Linkin Park at Rock<br />
in Rio Lisboa (rock<br />
inriolisboa.sapo.pt).<br />
GO The antique lifts,<br />
funiculars and trams<br />
are a delight. The<br />
stately neo-Gothic<br />
Santa Justa lift and the<br />
funiculars of Gloria,<br />
Lavra and Bica are all<br />
picturesque ways of<br />
saving your feet, while<br />
the 28 tram is the best<br />
way to get a feel of the<br />
city as it hums and<br />
rattles its way from<br />
Martim Moniz to the<br />
cemetery of Prazeres.<br />
ESCAPE A visit to<br />
Portugal’s third city,<br />
Setubal, is a great<br />
day trip an hour to<br />
the south. Besides<br />
the interest of the city<br />
itself, there are serious<br />
delights to be had in<br />
the adjoining Serra<br />
da Arrábida with its<br />
unspoilt Mediterranean<br />
forest and sandy coves.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Lisbon is fi lled with<br />
ghosts from its short<br />
but thrilling period as<br />
a centre of espionage<br />
during World War Two.<br />
Jonathan Weightman<br />
Liverpool<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bodrum,<br />
Bordeaux, Brussels,<br />
Faro, Fuerteventura,<br />
Geneva, Gibraltar,<br />
Grenoble, Ibiza,<br />
Innsbruck, Isle of<br />
Man, Jersey, Krakow,<br />
Lanzarote, Lisbon,<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta,<br />
Menorca, Naples, Nice,<br />
Paris (CDG), Rhodes,<br />
Salzburg, Tallinn<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
The 500 departs<br />
every 30<br />
minutes for the city<br />
centre. Tickets: £2.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Kimos<br />
(38–44 Mount<br />
Pleasant, tel: 0151<br />
707 8288) Kimos<br />
hosts a cosmopolitan<br />
crowd attracted by the<br />
sumptuous decoration,<br />
feel-good atmosphere,<br />
and good quality,<br />
reasonably-priced<br />
food, including their<br />
famous breakfasts,<br />
from full English to<br />
traditional Arabic.<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Italian Club (85 Bold<br />
Street, tel: 0151 708<br />
5508) This goodlooking<br />
deli-restaurant<br />
set amid the bustle<br />
of Bold Street, backs<br />
up its standard range<br />
of panini and pizza<br />
with appetising daily<br />
specials like seafood<br />
stew and roast chicken<br />
with roast potatoes.<br />
UP TO €50 Blakes<br />
(Hard Days Night Hotel,<br />
North John Street, tel:<br />
0151 236 1964) Voted<br />
Liverpool’s best city<br />
centre restaurant by<br />
the respected Good<br />
Food Guide a couple of<br />
years back, the rather<br />
grand dining room is<br />
located in the Beatlesthemed<br />
hotel.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Exchange (Hilton<br />
Hotel, 3 Thomas<br />
Steers Way, tel: 0151<br />
708 4300) Chef Paula<br />
O’Neill’s simple, highquality<br />
British cooking<br />
has won critical<br />
acclaim in one of the<br />
better hotel restaurant<br />
experiences to be had<br />
in the region – close<br />
to the waterfront.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
White Star (2–4<br />
Rainford Gardens,<br />
tel: 0151 231 6861)<br />
Virtually unchanged<br />
in its 130-year history,<br />
The White Star is a<br />
busy compact pub<br />
in the centre of town,<br />
whose regular clientele<br />
provide a taste of the<br />
noodles | rice dishes | dumplings<br />
salads and more! visit wagamama.com<br />
real Liverpool. Drink<br />
traditional ales and<br />
chat to locals, or relax<br />
in the back room.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Zanzibar Club<br />
(43 Seel Street, tel:<br />
0151 707 0633) An<br />
intimate setting<br />
in which to watch<br />
the best unsigned<br />
bands around, the<br />
Zanzibar is a small,<br />
independent venue<br />
and a good alternative<br />
to the mainstream.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Magnet (45<br />
Hardman Street,<br />
tel: 0151 709 7560)<br />
Ensconced within<br />
the so-called cultural<br />
quarter and below<br />
the radar of many,<br />
it’s an urbane crowd<br />
that patronises this<br />
multi award-winning<br />
bar with an emphasis<br />
on cool sounds from<br />
top Djs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP From an<br />
appropriately aquatic<br />
location, Nauticalia<br />
RADISSON BLU<br />
LIVERPOOL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Views on one side of<br />
this hotel are of the<br />
River Mersey, while<br />
on the other side<br />
guests enjoy modern<br />
decor and city views.<br />
From €95, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
uses traditional<br />
materials to make<br />
everything for the<br />
maritime lover, from a<br />
fl eet review telescope<br />
to a pocket blowtorch<br />
lighter perfect for<br />
lighting a pipe on a<br />
blustery day at sea<br />
(Albert Dock).<br />
SEE Distinctive,<br />
unconventional and<br />
always surprising,<br />
Charline von Heyl is at<br />
the forefront of a new<br />
generation of abstract<br />
painters. Tate Liverpool<br />
is hosting the fi rst<br />
major UK exhibition<br />
from the German<br />
painter (until 27 May,<br />
Albert Dock).<br />
GO A hop and a skip<br />
from the main train<br />
station is St John’s<br />
Gardens, bordering<br />
some of the city’s<br />
fi nest – occasionally<br />
overlooked – cultural<br />
treasures, like the neoclassical<br />
St George’s<br />
Hall and Walker Art<br />
Gallery collection<br />
featuring masterpieces<br />
by Rembrandt, Turner<br />
and Hockney.<br />
ESCAPE The<br />
dramatic landscape<br />
of the Lake District<br />
National Park is a<br />
quick drive from<br />
Liverpool. The market<br />
town of Kendal is a<br />
good base for the<br />
southern slopes<br />
and England’s<br />
largest natural lake,<br />
Windermere.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Liverpool Cathedral’s<br />
Grand Organ is the<br />
largest in the UK with<br />
10,268 pipes.<br />
Gerry Corner
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Ljubljana<br />
Slovenia<br />
DIALLING CODE +386<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (STN),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €45.<br />
Buses leave<br />
every hour till<br />
8pm. Tickets: €4.10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Vodnikov Hram<br />
(2 Vodnikov Trg, tel: 01<br />
234 5260) If<br />
you’re taking the<br />
funicular up to the<br />
castle, consider lunch<br />
here beforehand.<br />
Hearty Slovenian<br />
specialities and beer<br />
are on the menu.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Manna (1A Eipprova<br />
Ulica, tel: 01 283<br />
5294) Surely the best<br />
restaurant in trendy<br />
Trnovo. Settle in for<br />
some excellent fresh<br />
Adriatic seafood,<br />
Istrian truffl es and<br />
some seriously underrated<br />
Slovenian wines.<br />
Not as touristy as the<br />
fi ne-dining eateries<br />
in the Old Town.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Randevu<br />
(19 Mestni Trg)<br />
Slovenia boasts some<br />
superb wines and<br />
here you can try some<br />
crisp, dry whites from<br />
the Vipava Valley or<br />
some hearty reds from<br />
Goriska Brda, right<br />
down by the waterfront<br />
in the Old Town.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
InBox (224 Jurckova<br />
Cesta) Worth a<br />
detour out of the city<br />
centre. Party with an<br />
up-for-it and fairly<br />
unpretentious crowd.<br />
House tunes rule in<br />
this relaxed party hub.<br />
Mainly local DJs, but<br />
the occasional out-oftowner<br />
drops in for a<br />
turn on the decks.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A Belgian couple were<br />
so impressed by the<br />
Slovenian capital that<br />
they decided to name<br />
their child Ljubljana,<br />
which translates into<br />
English as “Beloved”.<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
OLD TOWN<br />
MARKETS<br />
GO The chocolate<br />
box Old Town is a<br />
warren of cobbled<br />
streets, cafés, chic<br />
bars, and a whole<br />
host of markets. Visit<br />
a few of them for a<br />
real sense of local<br />
food and crafts.<br />
London<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Aberdeen, Agadir,<br />
Alicante, Almería,<br />
Amman, Amsterdam,<br />
Antalya, Asturias,<br />
Athens, Barcelona,<br />
Bari, Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Belfast, Biarritz,<br />
Bilbao, Bodrum,<br />
Bologna, Bordeaux,<br />
Budapest, Cagliari<br />
(Sardinia), Catania,<br />
Cologne/Bonn,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />
Corsica (Bastia),<br />
Crete (Chania), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Corfu,<br />
Cyprus (Larnaca),<br />
Cyprus (Paphos),<br />
Dalaman, Dortmund,<br />
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />
Gibraltar, Glasgow, Gran<br />
Canaria, Grenoble,<br />
Hamburg, Hurghada,<br />
Ibiza, Innsbruck,<br />
Istanbul, Inverness,<br />
Izmir, Jersey, Kefalonia,<br />
Kefl avik, Kos, Krakow,<br />
Lanzarote, La Rochelle,<br />
Lisbon, Ljubljana, Luxor,<br />
Lyon, Madeira, Madrid,<br />
Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Malta, Marrakech,<br />
Marseille, Menorca,<br />
Milan (MXP, LIN),<br />
Montpellier, Munich,<br />
Murcia, Mykonos,<br />
Nantes, Naples, Nice,<br />
Olbia, Palermo, Paris<br />
(CDG), Pisa, Porto,<br />
Prague, Rhodes,<br />
Rome, Salzburg,<br />
Santorini, Seville,<br />
Sharm El Sheikh, Sofi a,<br />
Split, Tallinn, Tel Aviv,<br />
Tenerife, Thessaloniki,<br />
Toulouse, Valencia,<br />
Venice, Verona, Vienna,<br />
Zagreb, Zante, Zürich<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
LUTON<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
£80.<br />
National Express<br />
coaches leave<br />
Victoria every half an<br />
hour. Buy onboard,<br />
tickets: £15.50 single;<br />
£22.50 return.<br />
Trains from Luton<br />
Airport Parkway<br />
go to London St<br />
Pancras. Tickets: £13<br />
(fi rstcapital<br />
connect.co.uk).<br />
GATWICK<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
£70 to London.<br />
The Gatwick<br />
Express to<br />
London Victoria runs<br />
every 15 minutes from<br />
4.35am–1.35am.<br />
Buy onboard.<br />
SOUTHEND<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
£130 to London.<br />
Regular trains<br />
travel to<br />
Liverpool Street.<br />
Tickets: £15 single.<br />
STANSTED<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
£100 to London.<br />
National Express<br />
runs a bus service<br />
to London Victoria.<br />
Tickets: £17 return.<br />
The Stansted<br />
Express runs<br />
every 15 minutes until<br />
00.30am. Exclusive<br />
Book. Play. Score. Share.<br />
Introducing the new free Marriott Golf app.<br />
Don’t tee-off without it.<br />
Visit us at MarriottGolf.co.uk and follow us @MarriottGolfUK<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 145<br />
easyJet discounted<br />
fares available when<br />
you buy onboard.<br />
For transport in<br />
London, Oyster<br />
cards are available<br />
with £20 of credit. Buy<br />
on board, tickets: £23.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Kimchee (71 High<br />
Holborn, WC1, 020<br />
7430 0956) First<br />
came sushi, then<br />
dim sum, and now<br />
Korean bites are<br />
the latest Eastern<br />
craze of cheap eats<br />
to hit the capital.<br />
Named after the<br />
Korean staple dish<br />
of chilli-fermented<br />
cabbage, this packed<br />
restaurant normally<br />
has people queueing<br />
round the block.<br />
Get there early and<br />
enjoy plum wine<br />
while selecting small<br />
dishes of dumplings,<br />
tempura and spicy<br />
chicken bulgogi<br />
(marinated meat with<br />
noodles). As fi lling as<br />
that all is, you have<br />
to try the brilliantly<br />
named bibimbap – a<br />
typical Korean dish<br />
with rice, veg, meat<br />
and a raw egg, which<br />
then cooks in your<br />
heated bowl.<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Door (33 Cornhill,<br />
EC3, tel: 020 7929<br />
1378) We could<br />
rhapsodise at length<br />
about the lobster<br />
and truffl e risotto<br />
or the strawberries<br />
and cream pavlova<br />
on off er at this<br />
smart city grill and<br />
oyster bar, but that<br />
would be to ignore<br />
the elephant in the<br />
room. Or rather the<br />
whopping great<br />
cow. That’s because<br />
the Door does one<br />
mean steak. Whether<br />
you’re fi ending for<br />
Argentine Angus,<br />
ludicrously tender<br />
Austalian Wagyu or<br />
a prime UK T-bone,<br />
this brasserie-styled<br />
eatery – all polished<br />
brass and deep<br />
mahogany – is up<br />
there with London’s<br />
current crop of top<br />
carnivore havens.<br />
And that really is<br />
saying something.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Chiswell Dining<br />
Rooms (56 Chiswell<br />
Street, EC1, 020 7614<br />
0177) Suited and<br />
booted customers<br />
with a penchant for a<br />
good wine fi ll out the<br />
small dining room of<br />
this Barbican eatery.<br />
The low lighting and<br />
muted conversation<br />
over dinner contrast<br />
slightly with the<br />
bar area, where the<br />
atmosphere – all<br />
hearty laughs and<br />
pint supping – is<br />
reminiscent of the<br />
days when this<br />
building was part<br />
of the Whitbred<br />
brewery. The menu,<br />
however, is as far<br />
removed from<br />
pub fare as you’ll<br />
fi nd with dishes<br />
such as succulent<br />
roast Yorkshire<br />
wood pigeon and<br />
Herefordshire snail<br />
and smoked bacon<br />
pie really showcasing<br />
the best of
146 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
London<br />
UK<br />
British cuisine in<br />
the 21st century.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Shaka<br />
Zulu (The Stables<br />
Market, Chalk Farm<br />
Road, NW1, tel: 020<br />
3376 9911)<br />
Roger Payne doesn’t<br />
do things by half.<br />
When the media<br />
mogul turned<br />
restaurateur decided<br />
to open a South<br />
African eatery, he<br />
went big. Set over<br />
8,000 sq m in<br />
Camden’s Stables<br />
Market, Shaka Zulu<br />
is a true statement<br />
destination: six-metre<br />
high warrior statues<br />
litter the place and<br />
authentic carved<br />
wooden murals<br />
cover every inch. The<br />
wine list is equally<br />
as impressive,<br />
with South African<br />
varieties you won’t<br />
fi nd elsewhere.<br />
Yet despite all this<br />
bombast, the menu<br />
still stands out. Where<br />
else, we ask, can<br />
you fi nd crocodile,<br />
succulent springbok,<br />
or ostrich fi llets? It’s<br />
a true taste of Africa.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Intercontinental<br />
Hotel (1 Hamilton<br />
Place, W1, 020 7493<br />
3476) Gearing up for<br />
next month’s Jubilee<br />
celebrations, the<br />
hotel’s new Afternoon<br />
Tea menu is certainly<br />
fi t for a king – or<br />
queen. In fact, chef,<br />
Paul Bates has had<br />
some help from Her<br />
Majesty’s very own<br />
chef, which is how<br />
her favourite cake –<br />
coff ee and walnut,<br />
for those interested<br />
– snuck on to the<br />
menu. With special<br />
teas, fl avoured<br />
breads and delicious<br />
scones, the Royal<br />
menu is just one of<br />
three afternoon tea<br />
selections available<br />
in the Arch Bar.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
The Underworld<br />
(174 Camden High<br />
Street, NW1, tel:<br />
020 7482 1932)<br />
Join London’s rock<br />
‘n’ roll youngsters<br />
at Underworld in<br />
Camden. The likes<br />
of the Black Rebel<br />
Motorcycle Club,<br />
Radiohead and<br />
Placebo have all<br />
played here, and the<br />
venue is legendary<br />
for its rather wild<br />
nights, which go on<br />
till late and often<br />
see band members<br />
unceremoniously<br />
stage diving by<br />
the end. May sees<br />
The Ordeal play<br />
on the 11th.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Lucky Voice (52<br />
Poland Street, W1,<br />
020 7439 3660) In<br />
the heart of Soho,<br />
exhibitionism is<br />
certainly not frowned<br />
upon, and at Lucky<br />
Voice those who<br />
normally shy away<br />
from the spotlight<br />
can jump right in to it<br />
in a private karaoke<br />
booth. Cocktails ease<br />
the transition from<br />
wall fl ower to Whitney<br />
Houston and the list<br />
of songs is sure to<br />
please even the most<br />
eclectic music fans.<br />
Go on, you know<br />
you want to.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Looking for<br />
an unusual souvenir<br />
of the Jubilee? Forget<br />
the jaded, faded<br />
printed tea towels<br />
and mugs and head<br />
for Shoreditch,<br />
where hipster gift<br />
shop Maiden hawk<br />
more tongue-incheek<br />
takes on the<br />
usual Brit-schtick.<br />
Vintage Royal Family<br />
memorabilia, dressem-up<br />
Wills and Kate<br />
paper dolls, even a<br />
solar-powered waving<br />
model of HRH herself.<br />
How very irreverent<br />
(188 Shoreditch<br />
High Street, E1).<br />
SEE French fashion<br />
house Hermès<br />
celebrates its 175th<br />
birthday with an<br />
exhibition all fans<br />
of the label will be<br />
ESCAPE<br />
An hour and a half<br />
from London, Dover<br />
Castle is heavy in<br />
history. The town has<br />
plenty of wartime<br />
tunnels, towers and<br />
museums. Try to<br />
spot France over the<br />
famous White Cliff s.<br />
vying to see. The<br />
craftsmanship that<br />
made the brand great<br />
– from 19th-century<br />
saddles to silk<br />
scarves and gloves<br />
– is on proud show<br />
in Leather Forever,<br />
from 8-27 May at<br />
the Royal Academy’s<br />
Burlington Gardens.<br />
For those who can<br />
aff ord a special<br />
edition piece, four<br />
handbags will be<br />
auctioned at the end<br />
of the run (royal<br />
academy.org.uk).<br />
GO At the<br />
confl uence of half a<br />
dozen major roads<br />
and roundabouts,<br />
Hammersmith might<br />
not be the prettiest<br />
of places, but its<br />
nightlife has plenty<br />
to off er. Live music<br />
and comedy at<br />
the Apollo and<br />
Lyric theatres are<br />
well lubricated<br />
by an enormous<br />
selection of drinking<br />
establishments,<br />
while hidden down<br />
a backstreet is<br />
Riverside, a locals’<br />
well-kept secret for<br />
fringe theatre and<br />
vintage cinema.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A little-known fact<br />
is that the Queen,<br />
long before she<br />
was crowned on to<br />
the throne, actually<br />
used to have<br />
residence, not in<br />
Buckingham Palace,<br />
but on Hamilton<br />
Place, where the<br />
Intercontinental<br />
Hotel now stands.<br />
Amy Dennis<br />
Luxor<br />
Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
EGP50 to the east<br />
bank, and EGP100<br />
to the west bank.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Cafeteria (Bus Station,<br />
West Bank) Go past<br />
all the little minibuses<br />
and at the end you will<br />
fi nd this café off ering<br />
amazing value, freshly<br />
cooked local food and<br />
something diff erent<br />
every day. No menu,<br />
but at 15LE for lunch,<br />
who cares?<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
King and Thai at<br />
the Fortune Cookie<br />
(Medina Street at the<br />
junction with St Joseph<br />
Street) From the owner<br />
of Taste of India, The<br />
King and Thai has its<br />
own Thai chef and a full<br />
menu including green<br />
curry – a very welcome<br />
addition to the Luxor<br />
food scene.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Shisha<br />
Cafe (Al Gezera<br />
Village, West Bank)<br />
The shisha is popular<br />
with tourists. Apple<br />
tobacco is the most<br />
commonly requested,<br />
although the new<br />
Red Bull tobacco is<br />
certainly giving it a run<br />
for its money. Watch<br />
the Egyptian men<br />
play dominoes and<br />
backgammon while<br />
you sip a tea.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The King’s Head<br />
(Sharia Khalid Ibn<br />
Walid) The perfect<br />
late-night venue with<br />
billiards, beer and<br />
cocktails. It closes<br />
when you leave.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO After your visit to<br />
the temple, the tombs<br />
at Deir el Bahri are a<br />
must-visit. Pabasa is<br />
from the time when<br />
the God’s Wives of<br />
Amun ruled Thebes.<br />
These powerful ladies<br />
have chapels at<br />
Karnak, Medinet Habu<br />
and elsewhere. Pabasa<br />
was a chief steward<br />
of Nitocris. You get<br />
an idea of the power<br />
of these ladies by the<br />
size of their servant’s<br />
tombs. The scenes<br />
show bee-keeping,<br />
fi sh preparation and<br />
wine-making.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Egyptian weddings<br />
can be extravagant<br />
aff airs, with the brides<br />
often sporting a very<br />
made-up look. The<br />
party is huge, but the<br />
real legal wedding<br />
would normally have<br />
been done well before.<br />
Jane Akshar
The Brenta Dolomites in your hands.<br />
DOLOMEET CARD: FULL EMOTIONS, FULL FREEDOM.<br />
Live your summer in the spectacle of the Brenta Dolomites, Unesco World Heritage.<br />
7-night stay per person in hotel (half board) + 6 days DOLOMEET CARD, from 320 euro<br />
(the DOLOMEET CARD offers several services for a total value of more than 200 euro):<br />
6 guided excursions in the Adamello Brenta Nature Park 6 days of free access to the lifts 6 days of<br />
free access to the shuttle buses of Val Rendena 6 days of free parking and sustainable transports in the<br />
Park free entry in the most fascinating museums and castles of Trentino 6 days of discounts in the<br />
partner facilities and shops 6 days of many other activities included in the Park summer programme.<br />
Info and booking: www.campigliodolomiti.it<br />
Madonna di Campiglio · Pinzolo · Val Rendena<br />
· Adamello Brenta Nature Park ·
148 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Lyon<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir,<br />
Barcelona, Berlin,<br />
Biarritz, Bordeaux,<br />
Brest, Bristol,<br />
Brussels, Casablanca,<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio)<br />
Corsica (Bastia),<br />
Edinburgh, Ibiza,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Madrid, Marrakech,<br />
Milan (MXP), Nantes,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Palermo,<br />
Porto, Prague, Rome,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €55.<br />
The Rhônexpress<br />
Express goes to<br />
Lyon Part Dieu train<br />
station. Tickets: €13.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Ivan<br />
Healthy Food<br />
(74 Boulevard des<br />
Brotteaux, tel: 09<br />
8249 1978) Great<br />
new concept serving<br />
up salads you make<br />
yourself. With a choice<br />
of pasta, green leaves,<br />
crunchy vegetables,<br />
dried nuts and fruits.<br />
Save room for great<br />
house desserts<br />
including pecan pie.<br />
UP TO €30 Grand<br />
Café de Géneve (10<br />
Avenue Mar de Saxe,<br />
tel: 04 7852 1896)<br />
Daily specials and local<br />
specialities are cooked<br />
in copious portions<br />
and speedily served at<br />
this popular lunchtime<br />
restaurant. Meat lovers<br />
should opt for the<br />
chalkboard specials<br />
that always include<br />
a great piece of beef.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Restaurant Thomas<br />
(6 Rue Laurencin, tel:<br />
04 7256 0476) Tuck<br />
into dishes created<br />
with local produce of<br />
the fi nest and freshest<br />
quality, and choose<br />
a bottle from the<br />
extensive wine<br />
list to complement<br />
your meal.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
M Restaurant (47<br />
Avenue Foch, tel: 04<br />
7889 5519) Julien<br />
Gautier continues to<br />
fl y the fl ag at one of<br />
Lyon’s most reputable<br />
establishments.<br />
Simple associations<br />
of fresh seasonal<br />
produce using regional<br />
infl uences are served<br />
up in a psychedelic<br />
retro 1970s decor.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
L’Horloge (34<br />
Boulevard des<br />
Brotteaux, 6th, tel: 04<br />
3724 3349) Enjoy the<br />
street terrace where<br />
you can unwind and<br />
chat over a drink while<br />
watching the bustle<br />
of the city pass you by.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Eden<br />
Rock Café (68 Rue<br />
Merciere, tel: 04 7838<br />
2818) Rock, blues,<br />
funk, country and<br />
pop are played live<br />
from Wednesdays<br />
to Saturdays in<br />
this bustling venue<br />
that’s popular with<br />
twentysomethings.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cargo (1 Bis Quai du<br />
Commerce) A riverboat<br />
that rocks until the<br />
early hours with DJ<br />
Nano. Enjoy cocktails<br />
on the terrace with the<br />
young crowd, before<br />
getting down to some<br />
serious tunes on the<br />
packed dancefl oor.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Head to Elsa<br />
Somano for a large<br />
selection of lamps and<br />
light fi ttings, sofas and<br />
textiles all designed by<br />
local creators (17 Rue<br />
du Mail). If vintage is<br />
your thing, Happy Days<br />
has unique decorations<br />
inspired by the 1950s<br />
(63 Rue Barbezat).<br />
SEE On 19 May<br />
throughout Lyon<br />
(and in fact all of<br />
LE CARRÉ<br />
MERCIÉRE<br />
APARTMENTS<br />
In a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site, this old<br />
convent has been<br />
reworked in to studio<br />
apartments with<br />
original features.<br />
From €149, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
France), museums<br />
open their doors for<br />
night visits. One not<br />
to miss is the Musée<br />
des Beaux Arts,<br />
where you can view<br />
fabulous permanent<br />
collections presented<br />
by torchlight (nuitdes<br />
musees.culture.fr).<br />
GO Running from<br />
16–20 May, Lyon’s<br />
10th Nuits Sonores<br />
electronic music<br />
festival promises to<br />
keep the huge crowds<br />
that fl ock from near<br />
and far on their<br />
feet with a series of<br />
concerts at venues<br />
across the city.<br />
Three-day passes are<br />
available and advised<br />
(nuits-sonores.com).<br />
ESCAPE Just 40km<br />
north of Lyon, Touro<br />
Parc is a zoo, museum<br />
and attraction park<br />
just for the little ones.<br />
The monorail, petit<br />
train and carousel<br />
are for the tots and<br />
the water zone and<br />
zoo are perfect for<br />
the older kids<br />
(touroparc.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Look closely at the<br />
statue of Louis XIV<br />
standing in Place<br />
Bellecour. Legend has<br />
it that the sculptor<br />
committed suicide<br />
after forgetting to<br />
attribute the king with<br />
stirrups. It was later<br />
understood that this<br />
was not an oversight<br />
but a representation<br />
of the king riding<br />
without a saddle.<br />
Lemot in fact died of<br />
natural causes in 1827.<br />
John Brown<br />
Madeira<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW, STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
goes to the main<br />
hotel area. Tickets: €5.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Frango<br />
da Guia (7 Travessa<br />
Doutor Valente, tel: 291<br />
762 911) Guia is a town<br />
in the Algarve famed<br />
for its roast chickens,<br />
and this place carries<br />
on the tradition with<br />
sublime grills in a lively<br />
upstairs dining room<br />
on the edges of the<br />
hotel zone.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Estalagem Ponta do<br />
Sol (6 Caminho do<br />
Passo, Ponta do Sol, tel:<br />
291 970 200) Dine at<br />
this stunning boutique<br />
hotel that sits on a<br />
cliff top in the village of<br />
Ponta do Sol, just west<br />
of Funchal. Start with<br />
a terrine of foie gras<br />
with fi gs and Madeira<br />
wine jelly, follow with<br />
fresh fi sh, tiger prawns<br />
au gratin or duck with<br />
chard and round it off<br />
with unusual desserts<br />
such as pumpkin<br />
panna cotta.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Cervejaria<br />
Beerhouse (Pontão<br />
de São Lázaro, tel:<br />
291 229 011) As you’d<br />
expect from its name,<br />
this bar-restaurant<br />
is the place to go for<br />
a cool beer, brewed<br />
on the premises and<br />
best enjoyed on the<br />
breezy terrace facing<br />
Funchal’s marina.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
O Molhe (Estrada da<br />
Pontinha, Porto do<br />
Funchal) This superbly<br />
positioned bar and club<br />
is part of a 17th-century<br />
sea fort high above<br />
Funchal’s harbour.<br />
There are three dance<br />
spaces, each with their<br />
own sounds and all<br />
keep going until the<br />
small hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE May starts with<br />
the Feast of Saint<br />
Tiago Menor, for<br />
Funchal’s patron saint,<br />
with festivities and<br />
events around the Old<br />
Town; and ends with<br />
the Sé Festivities, with<br />
a week of live music,<br />
performances and<br />
stalls in the streets.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Funchal is one of<br />
the world’s hotspots<br />
for cruise ships – in<br />
2011 alone, more<br />
than half a million<br />
passengers visited<br />
Funchal harbour from<br />
passing cruises.<br />
Matthew Hancock
150 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Madrid<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />
Bilbao, Bordeaux,<br />
Bristol, Copenhagen,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, La<br />
Coruña, Lanzarote,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Manchester,<br />
Menorca, Milan (MXP),<br />
Naples, Olbia, Paris<br />
(CDG), Rome, Tangier,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
A three-day<br />
travel card gives<br />
you unlimited use<br />
within zone A. Buy<br />
onboard, tickets: €13.<br />
Metro line 8<br />
connects to the<br />
city centre. Tickets €2.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Orio (49<br />
Calle Fuencarral, tel:<br />
915 218 318) Fight your<br />
way to the counter<br />
to get your share of<br />
the authentic Basque<br />
tapas and snacks in<br />
this popular, informal<br />
restaurant. Choose<br />
from over 15 varieties<br />
including seafood and<br />
chorizo. There are also<br />
excellent fresh oysters<br />
to enjoy.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Mérimée (61 Calle<br />
Fuencarral, tel: 911<br />
166 702) This recently<br />
opened restaurant<br />
is already proving a<br />
big hit. The cocktail<br />
list is one of the best<br />
in Madrid, while<br />
the menu features<br />
delectable dishes such<br />
as mini hamburgers<br />
with parmesan, risotto<br />
or perfectly cooked<br />
monkfi sh with yuka<br />
chips. Sweet tooths will<br />
love the apple crumble.<br />
UP TO €50 Loft 39<br />
(39 Calle Velazquez,<br />
tel: 914 324 386) Sit<br />
back and enjoy the<br />
Mediterranean fl avours<br />
in chic, designer<br />
surroundings. Starters<br />
include succulent<br />
octopus and crunchy<br />
asparagus tempura.<br />
Follow with seafood,<br />
rice dishes, steaks and<br />
baked fi sh. There is<br />
also a lounge area and<br />
an open-air terrace.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Goya<br />
Restaurant (5 Plaza<br />
de la Lealtad, tel: 917<br />
016 767) Goya, in the<br />
Ritz, off ers exquisite<br />
Spanish cuisine with<br />
French infl uences<br />
in an extravagant,<br />
Belle Époque setting.<br />
Chef Jorge González<br />
off ers a lavish menu<br />
which includes tender<br />
pasta pillows with<br />
langoustines, or rabbit<br />
with cuttlefi sh. Allow<br />
the experienced<br />
sommelier to guide<br />
you with Spanish and<br />
French wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le<br />
Cabrera (2 Calle<br />
Barbara de Braganza,<br />
tel: 913 199 457) With<br />
its cool tunes and retro<br />
decor, antique cocktail<br />
shakers and mirrors,<br />
the downstairs cocktail<br />
bar at Le Cabrera<br />
restaurant is a popular<br />
choice. Try the Mr<br />
Antoni cocktail, a mix<br />
of whisky, ginger and<br />
honey. Drinks can be<br />
matched with tapas.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Siroco<br />
(3 Calle San Dimas, tel:<br />
915 933 070) A lively<br />
programme of local<br />
funk and rock bands<br />
is on off er at Siroco,<br />
which opens its doors<br />
to the city’s young,<br />
cool 20-somethings<br />
around 10pm for gigs,<br />
before turning into<br />
a club after midnight.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Sky-Night Lounge<br />
(Hotel Silken Puerta<br />
de America, 41<br />
Avenida de America,<br />
tel: 917 445 400)<br />
Move with a stunning<br />
crowd in this open-air<br />
nightspot with decor<br />
by Philippe Starck.<br />
The extensive cocktail<br />
list has plenty of<br />
temptations including<br />
the summer favourite,<br />
passionfruit Martini.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP On the buzzy<br />
Gran Vía, top brands<br />
vie for your attention.<br />
Wander into the small<br />
streets, branching<br />
off on either side,<br />
to discover shops<br />
boasting work by<br />
Spanish designers<br />
such as Dolores<br />
Promesas (22<br />
Calle Desengaño).<br />
Don’t miss the new<br />
megastore by trendy<br />
Spanish label Desigual<br />
(Plaza Callao).<br />
SEE The Thyssen-<br />
Bornemisza Museum<br />
hosts a massive<br />
exhibition of works by<br />
Marc Chagall as well as<br />
a selection of exquisite<br />
Indian miniatures<br />
(museothyssen.<br />
org). Caixa Forum<br />
is where to catch<br />
the stunning dance<br />
costumes, photos and<br />
set designs from the<br />
famed Ballets Russes<br />
(obrasocial.lacaixa.es).<br />
GO Take a stroll along<br />
the four kilometres of<br />
landscaped pathways<br />
in the Madrid Rio Park<br />
which follows the<br />
Manzanares River.<br />
There are play areas<br />
for the kids, great views<br />
and cafés to refuel.<br />
ESCAPE Just 40<br />
minutes by train from<br />
Madrid’s Atocha train<br />
station, Aranjuez is a<br />
pretty, royal town with<br />
an impressive 17thcentury<br />
palace, formal<br />
gardens, a river and<br />
a good selection of<br />
restaurants and bars.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Today, Madrid’s Plaza<br />
Mayor is fi lled with<br />
restaurants, but during<br />
the 17th and 18th<br />
centuries, it was the<br />
scene of gruesome<br />
burning of religious<br />
heretics at the stake.<br />
Scott Adams<br />
Sitting S comfortably?<br />
Majorca<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Dortmund, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, SEN,<br />
STN), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />
Newcastle, Paris<br />
(CDG), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 1 goes to<br />
central Palma.<br />
Tickets: €2. For Arenal<br />
take bus No.21.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 The<br />
Rosemallow (4 Paseo<br />
de Illetas, tel: 971<br />
702 291) This small<br />
but popular venue<br />
off ers an inviting,<br />
sunny terrace serving<br />
up freshly prepared<br />
snacks including<br />
salads, baguettes and<br />
baked potatoes.<br />
UP TO €30 Celler<br />
Sa Premsa (8 Placa<br />
Obispo Berenguer<br />
de Palou, tel: 971 723<br />
529) This popular<br />
Majorcan restaurant<br />
serves up good, fi lling,<br />
everyday fare with<br />
advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
a wide selection of<br />
classic dishes on off er.<br />
A great ambience and<br />
reasonable prices<br />
add to this dining<br />
experience. Regional<br />
wines fi ll out the<br />
wine list.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Fernando’s Utopia<br />
(Port Adriano, El Toro,<br />
tel: 971 232 425) In<br />
the scenic port of El<br />
Toro, Utopia serves<br />
fresh Mediterranean<br />
cuisine such as<br />
stuff ed lamb “violet<br />
style” with purée of<br />
carrots and cinnamon,<br />
black “sepia” rice and<br />
chicken stuff ed with<br />
prawns and lime.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Port<br />
Petit (Avda Cala<br />
Llonga, Cala d’Or, tel:<br />
971 643 039) This<br />
restaurant, overlooking<br />
the marina, off ers the<br />
perfect combination<br />
of excellent service<br />
and exquisite cuisine.<br />
Chef Gerard Deymier<br />
uses only the freshest<br />
ingredients to create<br />
his masterpieces<br />
HOPOSA<br />
UYAL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Recently upgraded<br />
from three to four<br />
stars, Uyal is a haven<br />
for relaxation right<br />
on the beachfront of<br />
the Bay of Pellensa.<br />
From €65, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Imagine over<br />
5 million people looking<br />
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />
Make ppart<br />
of your plan today<br />
150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/2011 15:01
THE FIRST LUXURY ART HOTEL ROMA<br />
Inspired by contemporary art and design on a modern and international concept, The First Luxury Art Hotel Roma is located in the<br />
historical center of Rome, Via del Vantaggio, a street between Piazza del Popolo, Via del Corso and Via del Babuino. The historic<br />
building, which dates back to the 19th century, has been completely renovated in accordance with the original architecture and<br />
redesigned with refined colors and natural materials to give life to a modern class atmosphere. The charming soul of the building<br />
and enchanting ambience of the surrounding lanes ensure guests a moving experience, rich with intriguing contrasts between<br />
history and modernity, between tradition and technology. The hotel offers 29 elegant and stylish rooms including 6 deluxe rooms<br />
and 23 suite and two splendid locations for savoring the excellent cooking traditional Roman dishes: the Overhall Restaurant on<br />
the elegant lobby floor and the panoramic terrace roof garden the perfect location to enjoy a sunset cocktail with the breathtaking<br />
view of the Roman rooftops.<br />
R O M A R E S T A U R A N T<br />
The First Luxury Art Hotel Roma ■ Via del Vantaggio 14, Roma<br />
Tel. +39 06 45617070 ■ info@thefirsthotel.com ■ thefirsthotel.com
152 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Majorca<br />
Spain<br />
such as poached<br />
hake in a clam sauce. It<br />
also boasts King Juan<br />
Carlos as a regular.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Las<br />
Terrazas Beach Club<br />
(52A Avenida Illetas,<br />
tel: 971 401 031) One<br />
of the many chic beach<br />
clubs springing up<br />
across the island, Las<br />
Terrazas overlooks<br />
Balnear Beach, at<br />
Illetas, combining the<br />
traditional concept of<br />
the chiringuito bar with<br />
an added touch of cool.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Backstage (4 Calle<br />
Porto Pi, Paseo<br />
Maritimo, Palma, tel:<br />
971 707 821) This new,<br />
trendy location hosts<br />
live bands from across<br />
Spain playing pop,<br />
rock, soul and jazz.<br />
Weekends only from<br />
midnight til 2.30am,<br />
after which the place<br />
transforms into<br />
a nightclub.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
BCM Disco Empire<br />
(1 Avenida s’Olivera,<br />
Magaluf, tel: 971<br />
131 546) With top<br />
European DJs,<br />
spectacular laser<br />
shows, and techno,<br />
dance and other<br />
rhythms played out<br />
on three fl oors, this<br />
is Majorca’s biggest<br />
nightspot, open till<br />
6am. There are also<br />
regular party nights<br />
and the club boasts<br />
the world’s largest<br />
foam machine – if<br />
that’s what you’re after.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Camper<br />
Factory Outlet is where<br />
the world-famous<br />
Spanish shoes are<br />
made. Take your fi rst<br />
pick at the new designs<br />
at greatly reduced<br />
prices. Simply follow<br />
the huge billboards<br />
featuring a rather<br />
large foot and you<br />
can’t miss it (Inca).<br />
SEE The Sa Fira<br />
and Es Firo festivals<br />
take place during the<br />
second week of May<br />
in Soller and feature<br />
the traditional battle<br />
of the Moors and<br />
Christians, including<br />
dances, market stalls<br />
and exhibitions.<br />
GO The old quarters<br />
in Alcudia town, with<br />
picturesque cobbled<br />
streets, are a hive of<br />
activity both day and<br />
night with many<br />
cafés, bars and<br />
restaurants to suit all<br />
tastes and budgets.<br />
ESCAPE For all<br />
you petrol-heads out<br />
there, MotoTrackdays<br />
Mallorca, operating<br />
at the RennArena<br />
National Circuit in<br />
Llucmajor (10 minutes<br />
from Palma) off ers an<br />
exciting range of race<br />
prepared motorcycles<br />
and track riding<br />
equipment for hire<br />
(mototrackdays<br />
mallorca.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The remains of the<br />
English poet and<br />
novelist, Robert Graves,<br />
can be found at the<br />
church cemetery in<br />
Deia, in the north-west.<br />
David Anderson<br />
Málaga<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
SEN, STN), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP),<br />
Newcastle, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €16.<br />
Buses go to<br />
Málaga with<br />
links to all the coastal<br />
resorts. Tickets: €1.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Rincon<br />
Chinitas (9 Pasaje de<br />
Chinitas, tel: 95 222<br />
3029) Located on<br />
one of Málaga’s most<br />
evocative and historic<br />
streets (Lorca used<br />
to hang out here),<br />
this tiny tapas bar<br />
dishes up the tastiest<br />
berenjenas con miel<br />
(fried aubergines<br />
with honey) in town.<br />
Alternatively, go for<br />
that special seafood<br />
moment with a plate<br />
of fritura malagueño<br />
(fried fi sh).<br />
UP TO €30 Da<br />
Fabio (Paseo Maritimo,<br />
Edifi cio Mediterraneo,<br />
Marbella, tel: 952<br />
823 376) Right on<br />
the promenade, this<br />
longstanding Italian<br />
restaurant dishes up<br />
a solid menu of pizza<br />
and pasta favourites.<br />
There is plenty of<br />
terrace seating for<br />
catching the rays.<br />
UP TO €50 El<br />
Padrastro (22 Paseo<br />
del Compás, Mijas, tel:<br />
952 485 000) Perched<br />
on a cliff above the<br />
village, the views of the<br />
coast from El Padrastro<br />
are stunning. The food<br />
is pretty good, too,<br />
with dishes such as<br />
roast pork with a rich<br />
sherry sauce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tragabuches (1<br />
Calle José Aparacio,<br />
Ronda, tel: 952 190<br />
291) Located near the<br />
legendary bullring, this<br />
celebrated Michelinstarred<br />
restaurant<br />
serves innovative and<br />
well-crafted dishes<br />
such as ajo blanco<br />
(white garlic soup)<br />
with pistachios, and<br />
a choice of several<br />
game dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Morrissey’s Pub (3<br />
Plaza del Siglo) This<br />
pub has plenty of<br />
blarney atmosphere<br />
and gets packed out<br />
with malagueños at<br />
weekends. There is<br />
occasional live music<br />
for a bout of foot<br />
tapping while you<br />
are downing your pint<br />
of Guinness.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Onda<br />
Pasadena (5 Calle<br />
Gómez Pallete) A<br />
smoochy, smokey<br />
club with live jazz on<br />
Thursdays as well as<br />
regular fl amenco. It<br />
attracts a healthy mix<br />
of age groups and<br />
locals and visitors.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Pangea (Edifi cio Club<br />
del Mar, Puerto Banus,<br />
Marbella, tel: 665 668<br />
103) A luxurious seeand-be-seen<br />
nightclub<br />
in the heart of glitzy<br />
Puerto Banus with a<br />
rooftop terrace and a<br />
regular line up<br />
of top international<br />
DJs. Ladies, don the<br />
glad rags and those<br />
killer heels – it’s that<br />
kind of place.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP La Recova is<br />
a cavernous treasure<br />
trove of a shop spread<br />
over two large rooms.<br />
Antiques such as<br />
rustic-style wardrobes<br />
and carved back<br />
chairs sit side by side<br />
MS<br />
MAESTRANZA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Much of the hotel’s<br />
furniture looks like<br />
a Picasso creation.<br />
Request a room<br />
overlooking the<br />
Bullring. From<br />
€75, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
with classic bicycles,<br />
straw baskets and<br />
bowls, brass framed<br />
mirrors and vintage<br />
clothing (5 Pasaje<br />
Nuestra Señora de<br />
los Dolores de San<br />
Juan, Málaga).<br />
SEE Córdoba is<br />
famous for its beautiful<br />
Moorish patios; the<br />
walls covered with pots<br />
of brilliantly coloured<br />
geraniums. Every May,<br />
the city holds a contest<br />
and the most beautiful<br />
patios open their<br />
doors to the public<br />
(2–13 May).<br />
GO The nature<br />
reserve of the Parque<br />
Natural Torcal is<br />
located just south of<br />
Antequera and is a<br />
real lunar landscape<br />
of extraordinary rock<br />
formations dominated<br />
by a looming mountain.<br />
There are several<br />
marked trails, so lace<br />
up those trainers and<br />
get ready to stride out.<br />
ESCAPE Laguna<br />
de Fuente de Piedra<br />
is Andalucia’s largest<br />
natural lake and one<br />
of Europe’s main<br />
breeding grounds for<br />
the greater fl amingo.<br />
The chicks generally<br />
hatch around this<br />
time of year and the<br />
fl amingoes stay until<br />
the summer when the<br />
lake dries out.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although some 14<br />
million people fl y into<br />
Málaga annually, most<br />
still head straight for<br />
the coastal resorts,<br />
even after the capital<br />
had a facelift.<br />
Josephine Quintero
ought to you by<br />
www.overseas.es Tel: 0034 9657 34000<br />
Ice cream<br />
.... why queue for<br />
the van?<br />
Cater for all the family with ease, and here’s where to find us:<br />
Javea Benissa Benidorm San Fulgencio Torrevieja San Javier Vera Mijas Puerto Banus<br />
Las Chafiras (Tenerife) Los Cristianos (Tenerife) Las Americas (Tenerife)<br />
Albufeira (Portugal)
154 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Malta<br />
Malta<br />
DIALLING CODE +356<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester,<br />
Newcastle, Milan<br />
(MXP), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €16.<br />
TheX1, X2, X3, X4<br />
are all express<br />
services to the city.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Agliolio<br />
(Radisson Blue Golden<br />
Sands, Golden Sands,<br />
tel: 2356 1000) It’s the<br />
perfect time of year<br />
to enjoy this al fresco<br />
eatery, which overlooks<br />
one of the island’s best<br />
beaches – Golden<br />
Sands. Tuck into<br />
scrummy pizza, pasta<br />
and fresh fi sh, enjoyed<br />
with a glass from their<br />
excellent wine list.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Palazzo Preca (54<br />
Strait Street, Valletta,<br />
tel: 2122 6777) This<br />
<strong>may</strong> be one of the most<br />
exclusive restaurants in<br />
the capital, but it is very<br />
well priced. Charming<br />
Katie<br />
before<br />
treatment<br />
chef Ramona adds<br />
that personal touch by<br />
regularly popping out<br />
to say hello. Her dishes<br />
are delicious – from<br />
the complimentary<br />
nibbles right up to<br />
the mouth-watering<br />
desserts, and all<br />
beautifully presented.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Vinum<br />
Wine Bar (1 Bastion<br />
Street, Mdina) Enjoy<br />
a walk through the<br />
Silent City of Mdina<br />
before getting stuck<br />
into Vinum’s fantastic<br />
wine list.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Havana (St George’s<br />
Road, Paceville, tel: 21<br />
374 500) The home<br />
of R’n’B, hip-hop<br />
and great old-school<br />
classics in Malta.<br />
Prepare to party until<br />
the early morning,<br />
surrounded by<br />
smooth sounds in<br />
a great atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The countryside<br />
is at its best at this<br />
time of year, so make<br />
the most of it by<br />
heading south for a<br />
walk in Zurrieq. Then,<br />
to top things off , jump<br />
a little fi shing boat<br />
to the Blue Grotto,<br />
where the blue waters<br />
beguile belief.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
For the best<br />
360-degree views<br />
of Gozo, head to the<br />
historic walled<br />
Citadel in Victoria<br />
and walk around<br />
the bastion walls.<br />
Jo Caruana<br />
Manchester<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Belfast, Berlin, Bilbao,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Geneva, Hamburg,<br />
Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta,<br />
Marrakech, Munich,<br />
Sharm El Sheikh,<br />
Sofi a, Tenerife, Zürich<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £20.<br />
Trains depart for<br />
the city centre<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
Tickets: £5.40 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Salvi’s (The Triangle,<br />
Exchange Square) The<br />
focus of this new deli<br />
bar is Salvi’s Mozzarella<br />
di Bufala Campana<br />
DOP, imported from<br />
the company’s HQ in<br />
Milan. With a late-night<br />
licence and stash of<br />
fi ne Italian wines and<br />
spirits, it’s a chic spot<br />
for a snack.<br />
UP TO €30 Baekdu<br />
(77 Shudehill, tel: 0161<br />
834 2227) Authentic<br />
Korean grub is what<br />
this café-diner does<br />
best. The shredded<br />
beef bibimbap<br />
(mixed meal) is<br />
recommended, as<br />
is the crab and king<br />
prawn hot pot.<br />
More canteen than<br />
classic restaurant.<br />
UP TO €50 Café<br />
Istanbul (79–81<br />
Bridge Street, tel:<br />
0161 833 9942) This<br />
established Middle<br />
Eastern restaurant has<br />
just been renovated.<br />
Lashings of Moroccan<br />
red, orange and gold<br />
provide a cosy setting<br />
for slow-cooked lamb<br />
with apricots, melted<br />
feta and spinach pastry<br />
triangles and baklava.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Room<br />
(81 King Street, tel:<br />
0161 839 2005) Dating<br />
from the Victorian era,<br />
stately Room once<br />
played host to Winston<br />
Churchill. Today, it’s a<br />
contemporary bar and<br />
restaurant, its menu<br />
full of classics with a<br />
twist – think regional<br />
lamb cooked two ways<br />
and homemade Scotch<br />
eggs. The wine and<br />
cocktail list are among<br />
Manchester’s best too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Bay Horse (35–37<br />
Thomas Street) Cosy<br />
with a contemporary<br />
edge, this is one of<br />
the original Northern<br />
Quarter bars. Live<br />
shows, pizzas and<br />
wines make this<br />
a solid all rounder.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Soup Kitchen (33<br />
Spear Street, tel: 0161<br />
236 5100) One of the<br />
hippest bars in town<br />
right now, Soup’s cellar<br />
plays host to club<br />
nights and live bands.<br />
Tuck into the carnival<br />
vibes of parties like<br />
Swing Ting this month<br />
after indie acts like My<br />
Best Fiend.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Islington Mill (James<br />
Street, Salford)<br />
Housed in a Victorian<br />
cotton mill, this<br />
300-capacity venue is<br />
one of the city’s fi nest<br />
for alternative music.<br />
This month showcases<br />
new sounds from<br />
Grimes and Kuedo as<br />
well as artists on the Tri<br />
Angle label.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Inspired by<br />
a vintage Russian<br />
camera brand,<br />
Lomography is an<br />
over-saturated hit.<br />
New to the Northern<br />
Quarter, the<br />
PALACE<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
In an iconic red-brick<br />
Manchester building,<br />
this hotel has had<br />
many a renovation<br />
since it fi rst opened.<br />
Great location too.<br />
From €94, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
store sells cameras<br />
from £50, with<br />
free exhibitions to<br />
check out too (20<br />
Oldham Street).<br />
SEE FutureEverything<br />
is a festival of art,<br />
music and ideas.<br />
Taking over iconic<br />
venues, including Royal<br />
Northern College of<br />
Music and Victoria<br />
Baths, on 16-19 May,<br />
the programme unites<br />
rising stars John<br />
Talabot and FaltyDL<br />
with innovators<br />
Amon Toibin and<br />
Matthew Herbert<br />
(futureeverything.org).<br />
GO The city centre<br />
is easy to get around,<br />
but it’s worth<br />
spending some time<br />
in the area just west<br />
of Piccadilly station.<br />
Dale Street is home to<br />
cute cafés like North<br />
Star Deli, and one of<br />
the city’s best places<br />
to get a beer, Port<br />
Street Beer House.<br />
ESCAPE Rivington<br />
Pike is a sprawling<br />
landscaped garden<br />
40 minutes north of<br />
Manchester. Asianinspired<br />
ponds and<br />
staircases to nowhere<br />
litter the forest. When<br />
you have had your fi ll<br />
of countryside, stop<br />
off at The Black Dog in<br />
Belmont for a pint and<br />
a Sunday roast.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Thanks to local<br />
breweries like Marble,<br />
Hydes and Millstone,<br />
real ale is huge in<br />
Manchester. Give it a<br />
try in one of more than<br />
500 licensed premises.<br />
Ruth Allan<br />
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If you are interested<br />
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APRIL <strong>2012</strong> | easyJet TRAVELLER<br />
TRAVELLER VEL VELLER VELLE<br />
Paris on a plate pllate aaa t<br />
The best places in the French capital pitaal<br />
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MARCH <strong>2012</strong> | easyJet TRAVELLER<br />
123<br />
TRAVELLER TRA TRA TRRA TRAVELL<br />
AVEL AV AVVELL AVEE EL<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Making<br />
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All aboard as we head to Ericeira<br />
in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />
offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />
Wonderland nnnnder dder der de d lan lan lan la llll anddd<br />
With its hot springs spri prings ngs and and<br />
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quite like Iceland. and. nd. Are Ar Are e you yo you ready read ad dy dy for for forrth<br />
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ntu ture ure? ure re? e?<br />
Most Most haunted: haunted: why why<br />
Venice Venice is the the perfect perfect<br />
setting setting for for a scary scary movie movie<br />
A child’s child’s eye eye view view of<br />
Chamonix Chamonix in summer summer<br />
The The (watch) (watch) lovers’ lovers’<br />
guide guide to Geneva Geneva<br />
APRIL AAPRIL AP <strong>2012</strong> 201 012 12<br />
*YOUR *YO YOUR FREE FREE REE ECOP COPY COPY CO C PY TO TO T<br />
TAKE TAKE TAK KE KE AWAY AW AWAY WITH WITH TH THY YOU YOU YY YOU YYOU<br />
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How Spain went crazy<br />
for gin and tonic<br />
18 reasons to visit<br />
Zagreb in <strong>2012</strong><br />
Sun, sand and serious<br />
culture in Malta<br />
Tel Aviv’s coolest<br />
new art district<br />
MARCH <strong>2012</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
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*YO *YOUR YOUR FREE REE E CCOPY<br />
CO COP COPY PY TO TTO<br />
TAKE AKKE E AWAY AW AWAY WITH TH THY YOU Y YYOU<br />
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+44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
www.gozo.gov.mt www.ecogozo.com<br />
www.visitgozo.com<br />
San Blas, Nadur<br />
gantija Temples, Xagra
156 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Marrakech<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Manchester, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about MAD60.<br />
The hourly L19<br />
bus goes to the<br />
Jemaa el Fna. Tickets:<br />
MAD20 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Sur<br />
Une Ardoise (Route de<br />
Targa, Camp el Ghoul,<br />
tel: 0524 430 209)<br />
Come for a classic<br />
bistro atmosphere<br />
and an interesting,<br />
seasonal menu. The<br />
chef infuses his dishes<br />
with Moroccan spices<br />
and excites with<br />
adventurous dishes –<br />
think shark carpaccio.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Amanjena Thai<br />
(Route de Ouarzazate<br />
12km, tel: 0524 403<br />
353) This wonderful<br />
restaurant is housed<br />
in the superlative<br />
Amanjena hotel. With<br />
vital ingredients fl own<br />
in from Thailand and<br />
a team of Thai chefs<br />
Dar Habiba<br />
Riad Papillon<br />
Riad Cinnamon<br />
+ 212 (0) 61423 4965<br />
+ 44 (0) 207 193 7357<br />
whipping up delicacies,<br />
this is really authentic<br />
cuisine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Piano Bar (26 Rue<br />
de la Koutoubia,<br />
tel: 0524 488 800)<br />
A smouldering bar<br />
decorated in rich reds<br />
and blacks. Excellent<br />
for a moody drink<br />
while listening to some<br />
live piano numbers.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Local abstract<br />
artist, Chalal, uses<br />
Galerie Bleu to feature<br />
his work alongdside<br />
other contemporary<br />
Moroccan and foreign<br />
artists. Chalal’s Berber<br />
origins mix with a<br />
blend of Miró-esque<br />
shapes (119 Avenue<br />
Mohammed V).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Marrakech was the<br />
setting for Sex And<br />
The City 2.<br />
Roisin Kiernan/<br />
hg2.com<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Diamant Noir<br />
(Place de la Liberté)<br />
A no-frills nightclub<br />
of the kind found<br />
across the globe,<br />
Le Diamant Noir<br />
attracts a vibrant<br />
mix of students<br />
and visitors.<br />
Marseille<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
A shuttle bus to<br />
Gare St Charles<br />
train station, leaves<br />
every 20 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €8.50.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le<br />
Jardin des Arts (53<br />
Rue Marx Dormoy,<br />
tel: 04 9124 9238)<br />
This delightful French<br />
restaurant with<br />
cute terrace serves<br />
freshly prepared<br />
dishes, from lobster<br />
and smoked salmon<br />
quiche to giant<br />
prawns with<br />
seafood risotto.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Une<br />
Table au Sud (2<br />
Quai du Port, tel: 04<br />
9190 6353) Noted<br />
chef Lionel Levy<br />
explodes the senses<br />
with specialities<br />
that include pieds<br />
et paquets (lamb<br />
parcels) and, for<br />
the brave, macaroni<br />
poutargue (pasta<br />
with fi sh eggs).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Clan<br />
des Cigales (8 Rue<br />
du Petit Puits, tel: 06<br />
6378 0783) Named<br />
after Provence’s<br />
famous cicadas, this<br />
laidback salon de<br />
thé is in the heart of<br />
Le Panier, the city’s<br />
oldest neighbourhood.<br />
Surrounded by art<br />
galleries and pottery<br />
shops, it also sells<br />
locally made wellpriced<br />
souvenirs.<br />
Open Sundays.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Crystal (148 Quai<br />
du Port, tel: 04 9191<br />
5796) Open until<br />
2am, this is an inviting<br />
1950s’ style, late-night<br />
cocktail bar in the<br />
Vieux Port, under<br />
the arcades of the<br />
Pouillon buildings.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Head to Les<br />
Pennes Mirabeau<br />
just outside Marseille<br />
for the Medieval<br />
Festival, a romping,<br />
ribald weekend of<br />
semi-fake battles,<br />
men in armour,<br />
women in fl owing<br />
robes, music, games,<br />
food, culture, dragon<br />
fi re and more, on<br />
20–22 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Raymond Blanc,<br />
in The Very Hungry<br />
Frenchman, makes<br />
his mouth-watering<br />
terrine version of the<br />
famous Marseillais<br />
Bouillabaisse fi sh<br />
soup containing<br />
shellfi sh, fi sh<br />
and vegetables.<br />
Claire McAlpine<br />
Menorca<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
A shuttle bus to<br />
Gare St Charles<br />
train station, leaves<br />
every 20 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €8.50.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La Baia<br />
(Passeig Marítim,<br />
Cala Biniancolla, Sant<br />
Lluís, tel: 971 159<br />
281) Don’t be fooled<br />
by the beach-bar<br />
appearance, La Baia<br />
serves some of the<br />
best Italian pizzas on<br />
the island, cooked in<br />
a wood-fi red oven.<br />
And the sea views<br />
are fabulous.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurant Acuario<br />
(Sa Plaça Na<br />
Macaret, Na Macaret,<br />
tel: 971 359 858) A<br />
friendly, family-run<br />
restaurant in a<br />
location where<br />
you’re more likely<br />
to meet locals than<br />
tourists. Great for<br />
fresh fi sh, lobster<br />
stew and paellas.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Gallery<br />
(12–13 Moll de<br />
Ponent, tel: 971 367<br />
614) A classy bar<br />
that doubles as –<br />
can you guess from<br />
the name? – an art<br />
gallery. The interior<br />
<strong>may</strong> be modern, but<br />
the menu’s still full of<br />
typical tapas and<br />
it’s a great place to<br />
linger over a drink.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Sa Clau Jazz<br />
Club (Marina 93,<br />
Ciutadella) Tucked<br />
away in a venue<br />
built out of a cave,<br />
there’s nothing<br />
neolithic about the<br />
music choice at<br />
Sa Clau, which mixes<br />
live jazz performances<br />
with a DJ. Turn up<br />
late to join a<br />
sophisticated crowd.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Get active this<br />
month and take<br />
advantage of the daily<br />
discounts on outdoor<br />
activities as part of<br />
the island’s Fiesta del<br />
Mar. Whether it be<br />
sailing, golf, diving,<br />
horse riding, biking<br />
or kayaking, there’s<br />
a cut-price sport to<br />
inspire you to get<br />
moving (menorca<br />
fi estadelmar.es).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
This month,<br />
UNESCO will name<br />
Menorca as its<br />
world headquarters<br />
for sustainable<br />
development on<br />
island and coastal<br />
Biosphere Reserves.<br />
Georgina Bromwich<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
www.marrakech-riad.co.uk
Also discover Hipark residences in Nice, Grenoble and Serris Val<br />
d’Europe (near DISNEYLAND ® PARIS - opening december 1 st <strong>2012</strong>).<br />
“The best way to buy or sell your<br />
property in Montpellier, Paris<br />
or in the south of France.”<br />
Mas Saint Côme Immobilier<br />
8 rue Saint Paul<br />
34000 MONTPELLIER<br />
Tel: +33 (0)4.67.02.78.25<br />
Mobile: +33 (0)6.76.58.37.12<br />
Fax: +33 (0)4.67.54.49.53<br />
Email: info@msc-immo.com<br />
www.msc-immo.com<br />
agence immobiliere / real estate agency<br />
MONTPELLIER - PARIS - SOUTH OF FRANCE<br />
Hipark Marseille ***<br />
21, Chemin de l’Armée d’Afrique<br />
13005 Marseille, M La Timone<br />
Tel: +33 4 96 15 58 00<br />
mail: hipark.marseille@hipark-residences.com<br />
A NEW WAY OF EXPERIENCING<br />
HOTEL RESIDENCES<br />
Located within easy reach of the Parc Chanot, the<br />
Vélodrome stadium and the town’s main centres of<br />
interest you have direct access to «Le Vieux Port» with<br />
the underground.<br />
Hipark Marseille offers 114 elegant apartments<br />
(Studios & Suites for familys).... featuring a kitchen and<br />
an office space. An exclusive range of services are<br />
included with your reservation (free internet access,<br />
businesscorner, sauna and fitness...). An extensive<br />
range of “à la carte” services are available at the<br />
concierge desk (massage, bikerental, baby sitting...).<br />
The choice is yours !<br />
Contact us for your next stay for a special 10% discount<br />
on the best available rate with this code: PROM<strong>2012</strong><br />
Tel. : +33 811 569 100<br />
www.hipark-residences.com
“A movie is always a trip, that leads us to a universe of places,<br />
events, emotions…” and a help to movie fans in fi nding the<br />
landscapes that gave them emotions and brought them curiosity<br />
and expectations.<br />
The Province of Como and the Chamber of Commerce of Como have<br />
published a guide book entitled The stars of Lake Como for all movie<br />
goers who are fascinated by location settings and image heritage.<br />
Lake Como has attracted movie makers, actors and scriptwriters and<br />
it will also conquer those who will reach our destinations to look for<br />
movie sets, thanks to an heritage of art, culture and traditions.<br />
For tourist information please visit www.lakecomo.com<br />
or call us on +39 031 269712 to discuss our tours!
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Milan<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir,<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Athens, Barcelona,<br />
Bari, Berlin,<br />
Bordeaux, Brindisi,<br />
Brussels, Cagliari,<br />
Casablanca, Catania,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,<br />
Ibiza, Kefalonia, Kos,<br />
Lamezia, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta,<br />
Marrakech, Menorca,<br />
Mykonos, Naples,<br />
Olbia, Palermo, Paris<br />
(CDG, ORY), Porto,<br />
Prague, Rhodes,<br />
Rome, Santorini,<br />
Split, Thessaloniki,<br />
Toulouse, Zante<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
LINATE<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
ATM’s route 73<br />
connects with<br />
the metro at San<br />
Babila. Tickets: €1. The<br />
Starfl y goes to Centrale<br />
station every 30<br />
minutes from 6.10am-<br />
11.30pm. Tickets: €5.<br />
MALPENSA<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €70.<br />
The Malpensa<br />
Shuttle departs<br />
for Centrale station<br />
every 20 minutes from<br />
5.30am–1.20am. Buy<br />
onboard. Tickets: €7.50.<br />
The Malpensa<br />
Express departs<br />
for Cadorna station<br />
every 30 minutes<br />
from 5.50am–1.30am.<br />
Tickets: €11.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Solo<br />
Pizza (25 Viale<br />
Umbria) This busy<br />
pizzeria serves up the<br />
genuine thick-crust<br />
Neapolitan article as<br />
well as a range of other<br />
traditional dishes.<br />
UP TO €30 Osteria<br />
della Lanterna (3 Via<br />
Mercalli, tel: 02 5830<br />
9604) This central<br />
eatery off ers quality<br />
and value, while the<br />
menu, which includes<br />
pasta, gnocchi and<br />
meat dishes, mixes<br />
homemade cookery<br />
from the Lombardia<br />
and Friuli regions.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Cocopazzo (25 Via<br />
Durini, tel: 02 7602<br />
0823) The Tuscan<br />
specialities at this<br />
welcoming trattoria<br />
include steaks, grilled<br />
meats and fi sh dishes.<br />
The prices are low for<br />
a central location and<br />
service is swift.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Savini<br />
(5 Via Ugo Foscolo, tel:<br />
02 7200 3433) A longestablished<br />
Milanese<br />
institution, Savini is<br />
set right inside the<br />
monumental Galleria<br />
Vittorio Emanuele II,<br />
the world’s grandest<br />
shopping mall, and is<br />
an ideal place for<br />
a romantic feast.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Spazio<br />
Fitzcarraldo (41 Via<br />
Filipetti) This vaulted<br />
basement nightspot –<br />
full of huge sofas and<br />
a central bar – looks<br />
just like a fi lm set;<br />
it’s a great place to<br />
kick off the evening.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Alla<br />
Vecchia Latteria (6<br />
Via Dell’Unione) This<br />
small venue, which<br />
dates from 1885,<br />
nestles in a side street<br />
close to the Duomo.<br />
It opens Tuesdays and<br />
Thursdays for happy<br />
hours and quality<br />
live-music acts.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Shu (Via Molino delle<br />
Armi) Shu is a popular<br />
bar with unusual<br />
decor, and cut-price<br />
cocktails and food at<br />
happy hour. Later, DJs,<br />
musicians and other<br />
entertainers take over<br />
until late.<br />
ACCA PALACE<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Its outer-city locale<br />
makes this a quiet<br />
getaway for families.<br />
The breakfast is<br />
raved about and<br />
rooms are spacious.<br />
From €75, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Treat yourself<br />
to some of the<br />
excellent pastries and<br />
cakes at Pasticceria<br />
Castelnuovo (18 Via<br />
dei Tulipani). A slice of<br />
an age-old tradition,<br />
these delicacies have<br />
won awards.<br />
SEE The Pinacoteca<br />
Ambrosiana is a<br />
fantastic art museum.<br />
Aside from the<br />
permanent collection<br />
by painters such<br />
as Caravaggio and<br />
Raphael, the library<br />
contains panels by<br />
Leonardo da Vinci (2<br />
Piazza Pio XI).<br />
GO Art on the<br />
Naviglio is a festival<br />
held annually in<br />
May, which today<br />
showcases the work<br />
of more than 300<br />
artists from across<br />
Italy. Held along the<br />
route of one of the<br />
ancient canals, the<br />
exhibition threads<br />
between Viale Gorizia<br />
and Via Casale.<br />
ESCAPE Lake<br />
Maggiore is the largest<br />
and most impressive<br />
of the Italian lakes,<br />
and, at around 100km<br />
from Milan, it’s easily<br />
reached by train.<br />
Stop for a meal in the<br />
picturesque lakeside<br />
towns of Stresa,<br />
Verbania or Baveno.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 2009 Milan had<br />
1.89 million visitors,<br />
well in excess of its<br />
population of just over<br />
1.3 million. It’s the<br />
63rd most-visited city<br />
in the world.<br />
Charles Searson<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 159<br />
Montpellier<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Take the shuttle<br />
bus to Place<br />
de l’Europe. Tickets:<br />
€1.50 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Tonus<br />
Fresh Kitchen (1 Rue<br />
de Chio, tel: 04 6754<br />
2805) Compose your<br />
own main-course<br />
salad at this canteenstyle<br />
restaurant for<br />
just a few euros. The<br />
mountains of leaves,<br />
veg and pasta should<br />
be accopanied by one<br />
of the delicious fresh<br />
juices, frozen yohurts<br />
and homemade<br />
desserts on off er.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Villa di Condra (67<br />
Avenue d’Assas, tel:<br />
04 6784 0664) You’ll<br />
need to book a table<br />
at this restaurant<br />
in a stunning town<br />
house. Once you’re<br />
there, discuss the<br />
menu with the<br />
Italian-infl uenced<br />
chef, and enjoy your<br />
meal on the terrace<br />
or the verandah.<br />
The tiramasu is<br />
legendary.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Baraka Jeux (7<br />
Allée d’Ulysse, tel:<br />
04 6792 9628) Make<br />
new friends on a rainy<br />
day hanging out here<br />
and playing board<br />
games, billiards,<br />
video games and<br />
watching sporting<br />
events on TV. The<br />
ambience is super<br />
relaxed and friendly.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Scarabee (9<br />
Rue en Gondeau,<br />
tel: 04 3426 5819)<br />
All painted red,<br />
this is a dirt-cheap<br />
student hangout<br />
where the patrons<br />
are encouraged to<br />
grafi tti the walls with<br />
drawings of their<br />
favourite musicians.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The (for)ever<br />
popular Johnny<br />
Hallyday will pack the<br />
Arena on 14, 15 and<br />
17 May. Otherwise,<br />
head for the Festival<br />
Arabesques, which<br />
celebrates the culture<br />
of the Arab world,<br />
from 21-27 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Tambourin isn’t a<br />
musical instrument, it’s<br />
a local sport in which a<br />
ball has to be hit with<br />
a circular disc – not<br />
unlike a tambourine!<br />
Samantha David
160 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Munich<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €60.<br />
The S1 and S8<br />
lines run from<br />
4.30am to midnight.<br />
Tickets: €10 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Big Easy (46<br />
Frundsbergstrasse,<br />
tel: 089 1589 0253)<br />
This New Orleansstyle<br />
bar is a popular<br />
spot thanks to its<br />
great Cajun food and<br />
delicious cocktails. Try<br />
the legendary Deep-<br />
South-style Sunday<br />
jazz brunch.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Acetaia (215<br />
Nymphenburger<br />
Strasse, tel: 089 1392<br />
9077) The upmarket<br />
Italian menu at this<br />
restaurant is based<br />
around the exquisite<br />
house balsamic<br />
vinegar. There’s also<br />
a lovely garden.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Maria<br />
Passagne (42<br />
Steinstrasse, tel: 089<br />
486 167) You’ll have<br />
to look hard to fi nd<br />
it – there’s no sign,<br />
just a bell on a plain<br />
door. Add some good<br />
music, extensive<br />
cocktail list and a<br />
selection of Japanese<br />
snacks, and you’re in<br />
for a chilled night out.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cord (18<br />
Sonnenstrasse, tel:<br />
089 5521 3898) The<br />
panoramic dancefl oor<br />
pulls the crowds every<br />
night of the week.<br />
Music ranges from<br />
1960s swing to Britpop<br />
and classic disco.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Get yourself in<br />
the Olympic spirit<br />
by visiting Munich’s<br />
Olympic Park, built<br />
for the 1972 Games.<br />
The daring <strong>may</strong> like to<br />
attempt a roped tour of<br />
the sweeping rooftops.<br />
And, from 16–19 May,<br />
the venue hosts the<br />
UEFA Champions<br />
Festival – a four-day<br />
football party to mark<br />
the Champions League<br />
fi nal held in the city.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
During your visit to<br />
Munich, you <strong>may</strong><br />
notice the numerous<br />
“May trees” towering<br />
above the ground. It is<br />
traditional in the region<br />
to erect a tree during<br />
the night before 1 May<br />
– with communities<br />
competing to see<br />
whose is the highest.<br />
Jill Henne<br />
Murcia<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
around €45 to Murcia<br />
and €35 to Torrevieja.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Aires<br />
de Murcia (25 Calle<br />
Simón García, tel:<br />
968 210 477) Near<br />
the cathedral, Aires<br />
de Murcia off ers<br />
everything from a<br />
quick tapa at the bar<br />
to a full sit-down meal.<br />
The Jumilla wines from<br />
the Murcia region are<br />
defi nitely worth trying.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Amapola (Hyatt<br />
Regency Hotel, La<br />
Manga Club, La Manga,<br />
tel: 968 331 260) A<br />
plush restaurant in<br />
the fi ve-star Hyatt,<br />
with a top chef and<br />
fantastic service to<br />
match. Amapola has<br />
exquisite seafood from<br />
the Mar Menor and<br />
rich ox meat from the<br />
Sierra de Guadarrama.<br />
Expect inventive<br />
cuisine and excellent<br />
presentation.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Abu<br />
Nuwas (8 Calle<br />
Ruipérez, tel: 968 222<br />
042) A Moroccan tea<br />
shop with more than<br />
150 teas on off er, plus<br />
funky decoration<br />
and an authentic<br />
Arabic experience.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
DNC Dance Club<br />
(Puerta Nueva, Edifi cio<br />
Centrofama) A trendy<br />
club in the university<br />
quarter, DNC plays a<br />
wide variety of music,<br />
ranging from Spanish<br />
pop to house and<br />
international tunes.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Torrevieja’s<br />
May Fair is a fi ve-day<br />
celebration of<br />
Andalusian culture<br />
that includes<br />
fl amenco dancing<br />
and music, horse<br />
shows and fantastic<br />
food. Situated in the<br />
harbour, the tented<br />
village attracts tens of<br />
thousands of visitors.<br />
It takes place in the<br />
second week of May,<br />
with this year’s dates<br />
still to be confi rmed at<br />
time of going to press.<br />
(More information<br />
at torrevieja.es).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A griff on vulture<br />
has been released<br />
back into the wild<br />
after recovering for<br />
six weeks at El Valle<br />
veterinary centre for<br />
wild animals in Murcia.<br />
David Jones<br />
Mykonos<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW), Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (ORY),<br />
Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Mykonos<br />
Town is €10.<br />
Catch the bus to<br />
Fabrika on the<br />
outskirts of Mykonos.<br />
Tickets: single €1.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 To<br />
Maereio (16 Kalogera)<br />
For authentic Greek<br />
home-cooking, try<br />
this tiny, family-run<br />
eatery that’s popular<br />
with locals. Favourite<br />
dishes include the<br />
kolokithokeftedes<br />
(courgette fritters).<br />
EXCLUSIVE Avra<br />
(27 Kalogera, tel:<br />
22890 22298) In a<br />
romantic, whitewashed<br />
courtyard<br />
garden, draped<br />
with pink-and-white<br />
bougainvillea, Avra<br />
serves Greek cuisine<br />
and a select choice of<br />
Mediterranean dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Galleraki<br />
Bar (Little Venice,<br />
Mykonos Town, tel:<br />
22890 27188) Come<br />
here for a sunset drink<br />
like house speciality,<br />
the “Katerinaki”. Great<br />
chill-out music too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Rock’n’Roll Mykonos<br />
(Agias Kiriakis Square,<br />
tel: 69866 26646)<br />
Reopening for summer<br />
this month, this is the<br />
sister of top Athens<br />
club Rock’n’Roll.<br />
Much loved by hip and<br />
glamorous Athenians,<br />
it warms up late and<br />
plays till sunrise.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Combine culture<br />
with relaxation and<br />
take a boat ride to the<br />
nearby islet of Delos.<br />
It’s home to UNESCOlisted<br />
archaeological<br />
site, fi lled with<br />
ancient temples.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Sanctuary of<br />
Dionysus is known for<br />
its stone phalluses.<br />
Jane Foster<br />
AKROTIRAKI<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
A pretty B&B in<br />
Mykonos’ next-door<br />
settlement of<br />
Cyclades. Its Greek<br />
architecture is crisp<br />
and clean. From<br />
€46, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Nantes<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Nice,<br />
Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Tan Air<br />
shuttle bus<br />
runs to Nantes South<br />
SNCF train station,<br />
Cité des Congrès<br />
and the town centre.<br />
Tickets: €7<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le Clan<br />
des Nanas (32 Rue<br />
des Hauts Pavés, tel:<br />
02 4020 8998) This<br />
is a great little place<br />
serving traditional<br />
nostalgic recipes with<br />
a modern twist. The<br />
courgette bake is<br />
yummy, and don’t miss<br />
the cherry crumble.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
L’Abelia (125<br />
Boulevard des Poilus,<br />
tel: 02 4035 4000)<br />
An enchanted garden,<br />
a cobbled courtyard,<br />
magical decor and<br />
divine cuisine make<br />
this a real oasis. Try<br />
the millefeuille of<br />
beetroot, avocado<br />
mousse, aubergine<br />
caviar, sauté of veal or<br />
pears in cassis.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Le Pickwick’s (3<br />
Rue Rameau, tel:<br />
02 4073 1362) This<br />
bar is all done out in<br />
orange and red, with<br />
quirky furniture, a<br />
circular bar and lots<br />
of little hideaways and<br />
cubbyholes leading<br />
off the main bar,<br />
making it perfect for<br />
an early evening chillout<br />
session.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
El Momento (1 Rue<br />
Kervegan, tel: 02 2808<br />
9366) The DJs here<br />
preside over theme<br />
nights, including house,<br />
electro and salsa<br />
music. There are also<br />
dancing displays from<br />
time to time. Try the<br />
fl avoured rums, and<br />
<strong>may</strong>be a plate of tapas.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Cinépride<br />
runs from 11-17 May,<br />
showcasing gay<br />
cinema from around<br />
the world. Films<br />
range from comedy<br />
to drama and include<br />
documentaries and<br />
fi rst-person diaries<br />
(katorza.fr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Because of its<br />
multitude of<br />
waterways, Nantes’<br />
most common<br />
nickname is “The<br />
Venice of the West”.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Naples<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Ibiza, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Milan (MXP), Nice,<br />
Paris (ORY), Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
The Alibus stops<br />
at the train<br />
station and Piazza<br />
Municipio. Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 A<br />
Taverna do’ Re (2–3<br />
Fondo Supportico<br />
di Separazione, tel:<br />
081 552 2424) This<br />
osteria is just by the<br />
Castel Nuovo and<br />
the Beverello pier.<br />
The house specialty,<br />
Paccheri do Re,<br />
features pasta and<br />
fresh seafood.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Coco<br />
Loco (31 Piazza<br />
Rodino, tel: 081 415<br />
482) Coco Loco has<br />
excellent wines, fresh<br />
seafood and traditional<br />
Neapolitan dishes<br />
infused with chef Diego<br />
Nuzzo’s creative fl air.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Berevino<br />
(62 Via San Sebastiano,<br />
tel: 081 290 313) The<br />
name means “drink<br />
wine,” which is exactly<br />
what you should do at<br />
this friendly, little<br />
bar in the Chiaia<br />
shopping district.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
White Bar (3B Vico<br />
Satriano) Don’t be<br />
intimidated by the<br />
stark, white decor.<br />
This trendy disco is<br />
a friendly place for<br />
late-night fun.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Faithful Catholics<br />
crowd Naples on the<br />
fi rst Sunday in May<br />
to see if blood from<br />
the city’s patron saint,<br />
San Gennaro, liquefi es<br />
during a special<br />
ceremony. It nearly<br />
always does, which is<br />
said to bring luck.<br />
Tui Cameron<br />
VISIT FOR FREE<br />
SEE Each May in<br />
Naples, admission<br />
to many historical<br />
sites is free, as<br />
are guided tours,<br />
special exhibits and<br />
concerts. For details,<br />
look for Maggio<br />
dei Monumenti.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 161<br />
Newcastle<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Bristol, Faro,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta, Menorca,<br />
Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £18.<br />
The Metro<br />
goes to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: £2.70.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Thali<br />
(44 Dean Street,<br />
tel: 0191 230 2244)<br />
Thali is a throwback<br />
to those old Indian<br />
restaurants where the<br />
decor takes second<br />
place to the food. The<br />
food is sensational and<br />
Thali, which has been<br />
around for a few years<br />
now, continues to<br />
prove a big draw in the<br />
city. The chilli chingri<br />
masala with super king<br />
prawns is top of the<br />
menu favourites.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Black<br />
Horse Beamish<br />
(Red Row, Beamish,<br />
tel: 01207 232 569)<br />
This 300-year-old<br />
pub set in the idyllic<br />
Beamish conservation<br />
valley serves food<br />
as fantastic as the<br />
views. What’s more, it<br />
has four hectares of<br />
gardens and orchards<br />
supplying organic<br />
vegetables, free-range<br />
poultry and linecaught<br />
fi sh.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Waterline (96<br />
Quayside, tel: 0191<br />
2305531) Once one<br />
of the liveliest bars<br />
on the Quayside, The<br />
Waterline has now<br />
grown up into a more<br />
sedate and inviting<br />
watering hole on the<br />
banks of the Tyne<br />
where people relax<br />
for a drink.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Florita’s (28–32<br />
Collingwood Street,<br />
tel: 0191 230 4114)<br />
Decked out in the<br />
style of a Miami<br />
tropical garden, with<br />
palm trees and bright<br />
colours throughout,<br />
this is a bar for the<br />
fun-loving crowd.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Less than half an<br />
hour from Newcastle<br />
lies the extraordinary<br />
Victorian house,<br />
gardens and woodland<br />
of Cragside. Home<br />
to Victorian inventor<br />
and landscaper, Lord<br />
Armstrong, Cragside<br />
House was the fi rst<br />
to be lit by hydroelectricity.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Newcastle was the<br />
fi rst coal port in the<br />
world, back in 1239.<br />
Michelle Ord<br />
MILANO<br />
PIAZZA SAN BABILA 3 - TEL. +39 02 76000366<br />
.<br />
10 NEGOZI IN CITTA’<br />
www.boggi.com - shop.boggi.com
162 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Nice<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bordeaux, Bristol,<br />
Brussels, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Lille, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Lyon, Nantes,<br />
Naples, Newcastle,<br />
Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />
Rome, Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Bus 98 stops at<br />
Nice’s Old Town<br />
and the Gare Routière.<br />
Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Café<br />
de la Poste (24 Rue<br />
Saint-Sébastien, Biot,<br />
tel: 04 9365 1932)<br />
When visiting this<br />
village, which is known<br />
for its pottery and<br />
blown glass, take a<br />
break at this historic<br />
café and sample the<br />
varied delights of<br />
tapas, sushi, chicken,<br />
salads and pizzas.<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Taca d’Oli (35 Rue<br />
<br />
inor onouinhooo<br />
www.mougins-school.com<br />
Pairolière, tel: 04 9380<br />
7093) Small enough<br />
to miss, La Taca<br />
serves unpretentious,<br />
home-style French<br />
cuisine. Its two set<br />
menus include options<br />
such as artichoke<br />
mousse, red mullet and<br />
an exceptionally tasty<br />
salade Niçoise.<br />
UP TO €50 La<br />
Brouette de Grand<br />
Mère (9 Rue Oran,<br />
Cannes, tel: 04 9339<br />
1210) An art-deco-style<br />
French bistro with a<br />
set menu off ering a<br />
choice of main course<br />
and dessert, including<br />
champagne aperitif<br />
and wine. The à-lacarte<br />
menu features<br />
traditional, homecooked<br />
French cuisine,<br />
with the pot-au-feu<br />
(meat and potato<br />
stew) a highlight.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Mère Germaine (Quai<br />
Courbet, Villefranchesur-Mer,<br />
tel: 04 9301<br />
7139) With views over<br />
exclusive Cap Ferrat,<br />
La Mère Germaine has<br />
been serving up both<br />
classic and creative<br />
seafood dishes – think<br />
scallop carpaccio with<br />
truffl e oil, or shrimp<br />
tempura – since<br />
Germaine herself<br />
provided the US Navy<br />
with sustenance<br />
during the 1950s.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Blue Gin<br />
Bar (Monte-Carlo Bay<br />
Hotel, Monaco, tel: 377<br />
9806 2525) A drink<br />
in this spacious bar,<br />
with a decor recalling<br />
great trans-Atlantic<br />
liners, provides the<br />
chance to discover<br />
this magnifi cent hotel<br />
with its unique indoor<br />
lagoon-pool. Admire<br />
the panoramic sea<br />
view or relax with a<br />
game of billiards.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Le<br />
Ketje (15 Rue Auguste-<br />
Gal, tel: 04 9353 0529)<br />
For beer-lovers, Le<br />
Ketje has a long zinc<br />
bar, cosy lounge and<br />
bistro tables on the<br />
terrace. There is live<br />
music on Thursdays<br />
and regular screenings<br />
of football matches.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Chokko (15 Rue des<br />
Frères Pradignac,<br />
Cannes, tel: 04 9339<br />
6270) Off the ohso-chic<br />
La Croisette,<br />
Chokko’s lavish decor<br />
and international DJs<br />
attract a trendy crowd<br />
of late-night revellers.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Combine<br />
window shopping<br />
with star spotting<br />
around Monaco’s<br />
Golden Circle, which<br />
LE ROYAL<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Smack bang in the<br />
centre of the city,<br />
there’s no better<br />
placed hotel for<br />
the promenades<br />
and beaches.<br />
From €128, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
hosts all the luxury<br />
labels and <strong>may</strong> also<br />
provide the chance<br />
to bump into famous<br />
faces. More aff ordable<br />
options can be found<br />
at Condamine market,<br />
with its tiny boutiques<br />
and shops.<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
Asian Arts Museum’s<br />
exhibition on the<br />
Children of China:<br />
Little Tigers, Young<br />
Dragons. Running<br />
until 14 May, the works<br />
evoke the diff erent<br />
stages in children’s<br />
lives (405 Promenade<br />
des Anglais).<br />
GO Head over to the<br />
world’s glitziest fi lm<br />
festival as Hollywood<br />
arrives in Cannes for<br />
the 64th International<br />
Film Festival (16–27<br />
May). La Croisette<br />
swarms with paparazzi<br />
and fans, and you can’t<br />
help but get swept<br />
up in the frenzy. Be<br />
patient (and early)<br />
if you want to see the<br />
stars on the red carpet.<br />
ESCAPE The<br />
medieval village of<br />
Eze provides a place<br />
to unwind in historic,<br />
natural surroundings.<br />
The village is rich in<br />
history; if old ruins<br />
are your thing, you’ll<br />
love exploring the<br />
Jardin Exotique in the<br />
remains of a fortress.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Villefranche-sur-Mer<br />
formed the backdrop<br />
for several classic<br />
movies, including Dirty<br />
Rotten Scoundrels,<br />
Ronin and Never Say<br />
Never Again.<br />
John Brown<br />
Olbia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
The Linea<br />
Urbana bus<br />
goes to Olbia every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Palma (387 Via Aldo<br />
Moro, tel: 0789 51549)<br />
For three decades, this<br />
home-style restaurant<br />
has been a popular<br />
choice. Fresh fi sh dishes<br />
are always a winner,<br />
as are the sensational<br />
homemade desserts.<br />
Sit inside or outside<br />
on the verandah and<br />
choose from local and<br />
national wines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Nino’s Restaurant<br />
(Hotel Stefania, 8 Via<br />
Bora, Pittulongu, tel:<br />
0789 39027) Rich,<br />
regional cooking and<br />
fi ne seafood, such<br />
as lobster, sautéed<br />
mussels and clams,<br />
and fresh fi sh with<br />
vernaccia wine sauce,<br />
are among the house<br />
specialities at this<br />
nook in the grounds<br />
of Hotel Stefania, with<br />
views over the bay.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Night<br />
Market (Corso<br />
Umberto) This road<br />
turns into a bustling<br />
street market from<br />
7pm, where you can<br />
enjoy the traditional<br />
passeggiata (evening<br />
stroll) and pick up<br />
something to eat<br />
and drink.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
La Tasca (3 Via<br />
Cavour) Have a meal<br />
and then enjoy live<br />
music or breezy<br />
lounge tunes with<br />
Olbia’s cool crowd at<br />
this café-come-wineand-cocktail<br />
bar in the<br />
city centre.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The surrounding<br />
areas of Olbia include<br />
Porto Rotondo, Porto<br />
Cervo and the Costa<br />
Smeralda, popular<br />
with jetsetters and<br />
yacht owners. For<br />
high-class shopping,<br />
trendy restaurants and<br />
bars, with spectacular<br />
scenery, these are the<br />
towns to go to.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The dialect spoken<br />
in Olbia is known as<br />
Gallurese, considered<br />
a transitional language<br />
between Corsican<br />
and Sardinian.<br />
Katy Gillett<br />
Prepare for tomorrow’s world<br />
<br />
Unique on the Côte d’Azur, Mougins School o er ri h<br />
edu on to tudent ed in n intern on enironent
An emotional experience<br />
www.sorrento-coast.it
164 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Palermo<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (ORY), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
The Trinacria<br />
Express arrives at<br />
Palermo Notarbartolo.<br />
Tickets: €5.80.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Il Pompiere (107 Via<br />
Bara all’Olivella, tel: 388<br />
695 9589) In business<br />
for over 30 years,<br />
this rustic trattoria<br />
has been serving up<br />
homestyle cooking to<br />
faithful clientele who<br />
devour their charcoalgrilled<br />
main courses. Il<br />
Pompiere also serves<br />
pizza, baked in its<br />
wood-fi red oven, at<br />
lunchtime: a rarity in<br />
Palermo.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Donna<br />
Ina (118 Via Messina<br />
Marine) Occupying<br />
a turn-of-the-20thcentury<br />
bathhouse<br />
right on the sea,<br />
restaurateurs Mimmo<br />
and Carmen serve<br />
classic Sicilian<br />
favourites with a<br />
new twist. Fish tops<br />
the menu here but<br />
there are options for<br />
carnivores as well.<br />
Don’t miss the bigoli in<br />
sea-urchin sauce.<br />
There’s a formidable<br />
wine-list too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Pasticceria Cappello<br />
(10 Via N Garzilli, tel:<br />
091 611 3769) The<br />
rich, creamy<br />
cappuccinos are true<br />
works of art, but don’t<br />
ask for the recipes of<br />
the mouth-watering<br />
cakes and chocolates<br />
– they have been<br />
closely guarded<br />
secrets for decades.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
L’Atelier (Via Michele<br />
Miraglia, tel: 091 976<br />
7051) Housed in a<br />
restored 16th-century<br />
warehouse steps away<br />
from the port, this<br />
eclectic nightspot is<br />
the perfect place to<br />
start off with cocktails<br />
and fi nish off the<br />
evening with live music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Palermo Apre<br />
Le Porte – during<br />
weekends in May,<br />
several monuments<br />
are “adopted” by local<br />
schoolchildren who<br />
are all too eager to<br />
show visitors around.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Despite being the<br />
capital of the island<br />
and a city where<br />
intellectuals convened,<br />
Palermo did not have a<br />
proper university<br />
until 1805.<br />
Conchita Vecchio<br />
Paris<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir, Athens,<br />
Biarritz, Belfast (BFS),<br />
Berlin, Bologna, Brest,<br />
Brindisi, Bristol,<br />
Budapest, Cagliari,<br />
Casablanca, Catania,<br />
Copenhagen, Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio), Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro, Fez,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Ibiza, Krakow, Lamezia,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
Ljubljana, London<br />
(LTN), Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Marrakech,<br />
Menorca, Milan (MXP,<br />
LIN), Mykonos, Naples,<br />
Newcastle, Nice, Olbia,<br />
Palermo, Pisa, Porto,<br />
Prague, Rhodes, Rome<br />
(FCO), Split, Tangier,<br />
Thessaloniki, Toulouse,<br />
Venice, Verona, Zagreb<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
ORLY<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
The Orly bus<br />
stops at Place<br />
Denfert-Rochereau<br />
from 5.45am–11.30pm.<br />
Tickets: €6.80.<br />
CHARLES DE<br />
GAULLE<br />
TAXI<br />
RENTAPART.COM<br />
Champs Elysées<br />
Opéra<br />
Marais<br />
Trocadéro<br />
Saint Germain des Prés<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com<br />
A local taxi costs €45.<br />
Take the RER<br />
B3 – trains leave<br />
every 15 minutes from<br />
5.25am to midnight.<br />
Tickets: €9.40.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Salle<br />
à Manger (26 Place<br />
Dauphine, tel: 01<br />
4329 5234) A tiny,<br />
family-run bistro<br />
just off the quiet<br />
Place Dauphine, this<br />
place serves French<br />
classics like boeuf<br />
Bourguignon. Try and<br />
get one of the few<br />
tables outside if the<br />
weather is nice.<br />
UP TO €30 Glou<br />
(101 Rue Vieille du<br />
Temple, tel: 01 4274<br />
4432) A trendy neobistro<br />
overlooking the<br />
gardens of the Picasso<br />
Museum, specialising<br />
in organic, free-range<br />
fi sh, meats and<br />
vegetables. There’s<br />
one table d’hôte, and<br />
a good selection of<br />
wines. Lunch is more<br />
casual, while dinner<br />
attracts the hip Marais<br />
crowd.<br />
UP TO €50 La<br />
Régalade Saint-<br />
Honoré (123 rue<br />
Saint-Honoré, tel:<br />
01 4221 9240) Chic<br />
and modern, this<br />
unpretentious bistro<br />
serves up fresh,<br />
fl avourful French<br />
cuisine, skillfully<br />
cooked and served<br />
without unnecessary<br />
fanfare. On the menu<br />
are organic game,<br />
chicken, steaks,<br />
stews, fi sh, seasonal<br />
asparagus and spring<br />
vegetables. Be sure<br />
Minimum 3 nights<br />
Online booking<br />
Good value<br />
Comfort<br />
Privacy<br />
to order one of the<br />
superb dessert<br />
souffl és. It’s closed<br />
at weekends; for the<br />
rest of the time be<br />
sure to book at least<br />
a week in advance.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Jardin des Cygnes<br />
(Prince de Galles<br />
Hotel, 33 Avenue<br />
George V, 8th, tel: 01<br />
5323 7850) Escape<br />
the tired formula of<br />
exposed stone walls<br />
and wooden-beamed<br />
ceilings at this<br />
elegant restaurant<br />
with Mediterraneaninspired<br />
decor,<br />
hand-painted frescos<br />
and immense fl oorto-ceiling<br />
windows<br />
overlooking the<br />
intricate mosaic<br />
tiling of the courtyard<br />
garden. The fi ne<br />
French cuisine has<br />
a southern fl avour,<br />
which attracts<br />
a luxury hotel<br />
clientele, as well as<br />
the impeccablydressed<br />
locals of<br />
the ritzy Golden<br />
HOTEL<br />
DOUGLAS<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Modest and modern<br />
in the city of lights,<br />
close to the Champs<br />
Elysées, the Hotel<br />
Douglas prides itself<br />
in its rustic charm.<br />
From €78, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Triangle district.<br />
Sunday brunches are<br />
accompanied by<br />
a jazz pianist.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
du Closerie des<br />
Lilas (171 Boulevard<br />
Montparnasse, 6th,<br />
tel: 01 4051 3450)<br />
The historic piano<br />
bar at the Closerie<br />
des Lilas has the<br />
plaques of all of the<br />
great writers and<br />
artists of the 1920s<br />
who hung out there,<br />
including Hemingway<br />
and Beckett. The<br />
crowd is a mix of all<br />
ages, formal and<br />
casually dressed,<br />
enjoying cocktails and<br />
snacks in the low-lit<br />
ambience.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Le<br />
Bus Palladium (6<br />
Rue Fontaine, tel:<br />
01 4526 8035) This<br />
legendary Pigalle<br />
rock club from the<br />
1960s reopened in<br />
2010 with a very<br />
laidback crowd,<br />
beer in plastic<br />
cups, live bands,<br />
and excellent DJs.<br />
For regular special<br />
events, register on<br />
their website for free<br />
invitations.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Showcase (Pont<br />
Alexandre III, tel:<br />
01 4561 2543) This<br />
vast nightclub, built<br />
under the stone-andiron<br />
arches of the<br />
Alexandre III bridge,<br />
is open every Friday<br />
and Saturday from<br />
10pm until late. Live<br />
bands are followed by<br />
DJs on the decks.<br />
Your apartment in Paris<br />
Rentapart.com<br />
97 ave des Champs Elysées<br />
75008 Paris<br />
+ 33 (0)1 56 89 31 00
© Bal du Moulin Rouge <strong>2012</strong> - Moulin Rouge ® - 1-1028499<br />
DISCOVER “FÉERIE”,<br />
THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !<br />
DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM 175€ • SHOW AT 9PM AND 11PM : 105€<br />
Montmartre - 82, Boulevard de Clichy - 75018 Paris<br />
Reservations : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - www.moulin-rouge.com
166 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Paris<br />
France<br />
The location, just<br />
off the Champs-<br />
Elysées, attracts<br />
young trendsetters.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Looking<br />
for unique gifts<br />
and objects for the<br />
home? Storie (20<br />
Rue Delambre, 14th,<br />
tel: 01 8356 0198,<br />
storieblog.com) is an<br />
independently-owned<br />
boutique where<br />
each of the unique,<br />
handmade objects<br />
has a story. Find<br />
whimsical<br />
and charming<br />
artworks, clothing,<br />
jewelry, home decor<br />
and toys.<br />
SEE Don’t miss<br />
“Artemisia: Power,<br />
Glory and Passions<br />
of a Female Painter”<br />
this month at the<br />
Musée Maillol (61<br />
rue de Grenelle, 7th,<br />
museemaillol.com).<br />
Artemisia Gentileschi<br />
was a 16th-century<br />
painter who worked<br />
for the princes and<br />
cardinals of Rome,<br />
but, like Caravaggio,<br />
wasn’t recognised<br />
and appreciated until<br />
three centuries later.<br />
Open daily 10.30am-<br />
7pm, Fridays until<br />
9.30pm, entry €11.<br />
GO The Golden<br />
Triangle is the<br />
luxury shopping and<br />
business district<br />
made up of the<br />
Avenue George V, the<br />
Avenue Montaigne<br />
and the Avenue des<br />
Champs-Elysées. Fine<br />
dining, nightclubs,<br />
cinemas and top<br />
couture brands such<br />
as Louis Vuitton,<br />
Gucci, Yves Saint<br />
Laurent, Hermès,<br />
Prada and Harry<br />
Winston make it one<br />
of the most popular<br />
areas of Paris.<br />
ESCAPE The<br />
elegant seaside town<br />
of Deauville, just two<br />
hours’ drive west of<br />
Paris, is north-west<br />
France’s version of<br />
Cannes, attracting<br />
paparazzi and stars<br />
from around the<br />
world. Pack your<br />
sunglasses and be<br />
sure to book a hotel<br />
well in advance<br />
unless you plan on<br />
sleeping in your<br />
sandcastle. For<br />
information, contact<br />
the Deauville Tourism<br />
Offi ce (Place de la<br />
Mairie, Deauville,<br />
14804, tel: 02 3114<br />
4000, deauville.org).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 1605, Henri IV<br />
originally built the<br />
Place des Vosges<br />
(then known as<br />
Place Royale) in the<br />
Marais to house his<br />
newly-created French<br />
silk manufacture.<br />
But the Parisian<br />
weather proved<br />
inhospitable, and<br />
they set up in Lyon<br />
instead, where French<br />
silk is made to this<br />
day. The Place des<br />
Vosges then became<br />
a chic residence<br />
for French aristocrats<br />
including Madame<br />
de Sévigny.<br />
Heather Stimmler-Hall<br />
Pisa<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
agence immobiliere / real estate agency<br />
www.msc-immo.com<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €7.<br />
CPT buses go to<br />
the centre. Route<br />
3 stops at Pisa Central<br />
station. Tickets: €0.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Gino<br />
(2 Via delle Curzolari,<br />
Marina di Pisa, tel: 050<br />
35408) A simple yet<br />
elegant restaurant that<br />
off ers a fi sh-based<br />
menu. The tacconi<br />
(pasta) with cuttlefi sh<br />
and artichokes is<br />
worth trying, as are the<br />
steamed calamari with<br />
pine nuts and rocket.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Scaletta (107 Via<br />
Pietrasantina, tel: 050<br />
562269) You’ll fi nd<br />
this airy and elegant<br />
restaurant with blue<br />
chairs and yellow<br />
tablecloths near the<br />
Duomo. The menu<br />
constantly changes,<br />
but it is always refi ned.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Almatea<br />
Café (Lungarno<br />
Mediceo) Catch the<br />
aperitif hour starting<br />
at 6.30pm for a drink<br />
with a selection of<br />
hors d’oeuvres, then<br />
linger for dinner and<br />
listen to the jukebox<br />
playing hits from the<br />
1950s and 1960s.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Dress Code (175 Viale<br />
di Gello, Ponsacco)<br />
Dress Code off ers<br />
electronic and<br />
progressive music to<br />
late-night revellers<br />
from all over the<br />
peninsula. The club is<br />
just a short taxi ride<br />
away from Pisa.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Art enthusiasts<br />
can catch the modern<br />
art of HW Marius<br />
Bauer and Karien<br />
Heijtlager at Centro<br />
Arte Moderna, running<br />
until the end of May.<br />
Lovers of strawberries<br />
(and who isn’t?), don’t<br />
miss the strawberry<br />
delights in fresh<br />
or dessert form at<br />
the free Strawberry<br />
Festival at Terricciola,<br />
not far from Pisa,<br />
12–27 May (26<br />
Lungarno Mediceo,<br />
tel: 050 542630).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
It was the poet and<br />
novelist Gabriele<br />
D’Annunzio who<br />
christened the<br />
monumental complex<br />
of Piazza Duomo, the<br />
“Field of Miracles”, in<br />
his 1910 novel Forse<br />
che sì forse che no.<br />
Silvia Falsaperla<br />
Porto<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Paris<br />
(CDG), Milan<br />
(MXP), Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Metro trains take<br />
you to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.75.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Restaurante<br />
Pombeiro (218 Rua do<br />
Capitão Pombeiro, tel:<br />
22 509 7446) Awardwinning,<br />
family-run and<br />
very friendly restaurant<br />
well off the tourist path.<br />
Try the Porto-style tripe<br />
or any of the delicious<br />
fi sh or meat dishes.<br />
German beer on tap.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Escondidinho (144<br />
Rua Passos Manuel,<br />
tel: 22 200 1079)<br />
Escondidinho off ers a<br />
rich variety of dishes<br />
in a warm and rustic<br />
atmosphere. The King<br />
of Spain and his family<br />
have dined here.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Brasileira (75 Rua de<br />
Sá da Bandeira, tel: 22<br />
200 7146) Housed in a<br />
beautiful art-nouveau<br />
building dating from<br />
1903, this landmark is<br />
well worth a visit.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Clube 3 C (18 Rua<br />
Candido dos Reis,<br />
tel: 22 201 8247)<br />
Not just a club, but a<br />
restaurant and bar as<br />
well, with DJs, live jazz<br />
and much more in a<br />
beautifully restored<br />
downtown building.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Portuguese<br />
Photography Museum<br />
in Porto (housed in a<br />
former prison) off ers a<br />
fascinating exhibition<br />
on the women in the<br />
life of Camilo Castelo<br />
Branco throughout<br />
May (Campo Mártires<br />
da Pátria, tel: 22 207<br />
6310, cpf.pt).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
An old British naval<br />
tradition exists for port<br />
wine. A decanter is<br />
placed in front of the<br />
host, who serves the<br />
guest to his right and<br />
passes it to his left.<br />
The decanter goes<br />
around the table to the<br />
left until it is empty.<br />
Should it stop, the host<br />
asks the individual<br />
nearest the decanter<br />
if he knows the Bishop<br />
of Norwich. When this<br />
individual replies no,<br />
the host says: “He’s<br />
a terribly nice chap,<br />
but he never passed<br />
the port.”<br />
Joseph Guerra<br />
MONTPELLIER - PARIS<br />
- SOUTH OF FRANCE<br />
“The best way to buy or sell your property in<br />
Montpellier, Paris or in the south of France.”<br />
T: +33 (0)4.67.02.78.25 | E: info@msc-immo.com
BEST VALUE IN PARIS<br />
THE HOTEL TAYLOR WILL DELIGHT BOTH YOU AND YOUR WALLET<br />
ON THE RIGHT BANK, in a peaceful,<br />
secluded position on a quiet one-way<br />
street just outside the bustling centre<br />
of Paris and within walking distance<br />
of Notre Dame, the family-run<br />
boutique Hotel Taylor is the perfect<br />
base from which to enjoy a romantic<br />
THIS JUST IN<br />
Hotel Taylor is renovating<br />
the adjacent Hotel<br />
Annexe – visit<br />
annexe-paris-hotel.com<br />
to view their new<br />
low-cost rooms.<br />
break in the City of Light. Just a<br />
short walk from the lively Marais<br />
district and close to major department<br />
stores, the Place des Vosges, Bastille<br />
and Canal Saint Martin, the hotel’s<br />
location is unbeatable.<br />
With a charming and cosy ambience<br />
PROMOTION<br />
as well as 37 newly refurbished,<br />
sound-proofed guestrooms and<br />
modern, romantic interiors, you’ll<br />
be tempted to stay in, as well as<br />
to go out. Hotel amenities include<br />
free WiFi, a fl at-screen TV in every<br />
bedroom and a sumptuous buffet<br />
breakfast. And the hotel’s attentive<br />
and experienced staff are always<br />
on hand to help with restaurant<br />
suggestions, taxi bookings and more.<br />
Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is<br />
outstanding value for money – with<br />
single rooms from just €80 and<br />
doubles from €91, it is the hotel of<br />
choice for savvy travellers.<br />
Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010<br />
Paris, tel: +33 (0)1 4240 1101<br />
Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com<br />
paristaylorhotel.com
MADE IN ICELAND<br />
Gilbert Workshop Laugavegur 62, Reykjavik, Iceland, Tel: +354 551 4100<br />
ATA<br />
RGATA<br />
GARÐASTRÆTI<br />
TJARNARGATA<br />
STAROMSTSKÁ RESTAURACE<br />
As one of the medieval houses situated in the heart of<br />
the taromsts nmst suare it has een a oular<br />
inn sine times lon ast and offers a leasant lae for<br />
relain hen alin alon the oal a taromsts<br />
restaurae a restaurant famous for its eellent eh<br />
uisine and orldrenoned ilsner eer<br />
e reare the est of lassi eh uisine a seletion<br />
of ui steas fresh veetale salads ith homemade<br />
dressin iuant seialities to o ith eer homemade<br />
desserts and muh more Aside from the old inter<br />
months e also oen an outdoor restaurant ith a<br />
onderful vie of the hole taromsts nmst suare<br />
hih is slendidl lit in the evenin<br />
Tel. .: +420 224 213 015 | Fax. .:+420 224 215 058<br />
Mobil: +420 777 263 730 | office@staromestskarestaurace.cz<br />
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Prague<br />
Czech Republic<br />
DIALLING CODE +420<br />
CURRENCY CZK<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Bristol, London (LGW,<br />
STN), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A Cedaz van takes you<br />
to the city for CZK90<br />
per person.<br />
Catch bus 119<br />
to Dejvicka then<br />
take metro line A to the<br />
centre. Tickets: CZK26.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Jan<br />
Paukert (981 Narodni,<br />
tel: 736 477 939)<br />
Dating back to 1916,<br />
Jan Paukert is a<br />
gourmet delicatessen.<br />
But it’s the famous,<br />
open-faced chlebicky<br />
sandwiches that draw<br />
the curious crowds.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
V Zatisi (1 Betlemske,<br />
tel: 222 221 155) As one<br />
of Prague’s fi rst private<br />
restaurants, V Zatisi<br />
has a proud history<br />
of fi ne dining. The<br />
two choices of Czech<br />
and International<br />
degustation menus are<br />
both wonderful choices<br />
for the full, modern V<br />
Zatisi experience.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Lounge (615 Plaska)<br />
Perfect for an espresso<br />
or a glass of wine,<br />
Café Lounge is a cosy<br />
place to experience a<br />
typically Prague café.<br />
It’s not continuously<br />
voted best bar and café<br />
in Prague for nothing!<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cloud 9 (Hilton Hotel,<br />
1 Pobrezni, tel: 224<br />
842 999) A favourite<br />
for expats with cash<br />
to spare, Cloud 9 has<br />
defi nitely earned its<br />
popularity thanks to<br />
exquisite cocktails,<br />
chill atmosphere and<br />
stunning views.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Going into its<br />
67th year, the Prague<br />
Spring International<br />
Music Festival (12 May<br />
– 3 June) continues<br />
its tradition of inviting<br />
the brightest stars in<br />
classical music from<br />
around the world.<br />
(festival.cz).<br />
prague-life.com<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Take a moment to<br />
touch the bronze<br />
plaque beneath St<br />
John of Nepomuk’s<br />
statue on Charles<br />
Bridge to ensure<br />
a speedy return to<br />
the wonderful city<br />
of Prague.<br />
Pristina<br />
Kosovo<br />
DIALLING CODE +381<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Minimax (Film City,<br />
Arberia, tel: 038 24<br />
72 29) The rather<br />
classy restaurant<br />
of this much-loved<br />
supermarket attracts<br />
shoppers and night<br />
owls looking for<br />
decent, well-priced<br />
pizzas, meat dishes<br />
and salads.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Rron (Veternik,<br />
tel: 038 602 450)<br />
One of the best<br />
restaurants in<br />
Pristina, just south of<br />
town amid a clutch<br />
of upmarket places.<br />
There are excellent<br />
fi sh and meat dishes,<br />
good wines and a<br />
great bar. May should<br />
be just perfect to<br />
enjoy the garden,<br />
which has a children’s<br />
play corner.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY X21 Café<br />
(Dardania) A cosy<br />
and very special café,<br />
staff ed by people with<br />
Down’s Syndrome<br />
- an extra 21st<br />
chromosome. Come<br />
for service with a smile,<br />
good coff ee and to<br />
contribute to a worthy<br />
cause. Near the PTK<br />
building, behind the<br />
Furra Elisa bakery.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Crème de la Crème<br />
(Str. Mujo Ulqinaku,<br />
tel: 049 22 00 08)<br />
Just south of the<br />
Pejton nightlife district,<br />
this fantastic bar is<br />
crammed with people<br />
dancing to loud music<br />
most weekends.<br />
What’s more, it’s cheap<br />
even for Pristina’s<br />
modest standards.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Go to the TEDx<br />
event at the American<br />
School of Kosovo<br />
on 19 May: inspiring<br />
speakers from all<br />
walks of life hold short<br />
presentations on<br />
ideas worth spreading<br />
(tedxprishtina.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Solo pilot James<br />
Berisha, fl ying around<br />
the world to lobby<br />
governments to<br />
recognise Kosovo’s<br />
independence,<br />
crash-landed in Sudan<br />
last summer and<br />
continued to Eritrea<br />
by commercial airliner,<br />
only to be thrown into<br />
jail on suspicion of<br />
being a US spy.<br />
Jeroen van Marle/<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
KEFLAVÍK AIRPORT REYKJAVÍK CITY<br />
O<br />
Free WiFi Hotspot<br />
on board our coaches.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 169<br />
Reykjavik<br />
Iceland<br />
DIALLING CODE +354<br />
CURRENCY Krona (ISK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík<br />
Iceland www.flybus.is<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
up to 12,000 ISK<br />
Airbus to the<br />
city centre takes<br />
45 minutes. Tickets:<br />
1,950 ISK (one way)<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Kaffi Sólon (7A<br />
Bankastræti, tel: 562<br />
3232) This welcoming,<br />
spacious café-bar<br />
is frequented by a<br />
broad demographic<br />
of locals and tourists.<br />
It has a cosmopolitan<br />
atmosphere, decent<br />
artwork and a diverse<br />
menu that ranges<br />
from burgers and<br />
monkfi sh to great<br />
vegetarian quiche.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Gallery Restaurant<br />
(37 Bergstdastraeti,<br />
tel: 552 570) Located<br />
inside the Holt<br />
Hotel, the Gallery’s<br />
sophisticated menu<br />
has game and seafood<br />
dishes, mostly with<br />
a French twist; try<br />
the reindeer for<br />
something special.<br />
The artwork and wine<br />
list are also talking<br />
points, and there’s a<br />
fi ne whisky selection<br />
in the adjacent bar.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Hressingarskálinn<br />
(20 Austurstræti, tel:<br />
561 2240) Known as<br />
Hressó, this spacious<br />
café-bar is one of<br />
the city’s premier<br />
hangouts. Expect<br />
board games, things<br />
to read, decent food<br />
and drinks as well as<br />
DJs and bands from<br />
time to time.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Gaukur á Stong (22<br />
Tryggvagata, tel: 551<br />
1556) In the centre<br />
of town, Gaukur á<br />
Stong is one of the<br />
city’s longest-running<br />
establishments.<br />
It’s been through<br />
a number of name<br />
changes over the<br />
years, but has always<br />
been a safe bet if<br />
you’re looking for<br />
something upbeat<br />
in the evenings –<br />
usually live music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Taking place<br />
on 18–19 May, the<br />
Reykjavik Music Mess<br />
is a relatively new<br />
independent music<br />
festival that showcases<br />
bands from Iceland,<br />
USA, Finland and<br />
Greenland (reykjavik<br />
musicmess.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sixty per cent of<br />
Iceland’s population<br />
lives in Reykjavik.<br />
Paul Sullivan<br />
FAST, FREQUENT & ON SCHEDULE<br />
EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK.
170 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Rhodes<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW), Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €23.<br />
From 6.30am to<br />
midnight, regular<br />
buses go to Rhodes<br />
Town (New Market).<br />
Tickets: €2.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Koukos<br />
(20–26 Nikifórou<br />
Mandilará, tel: 22410<br />
73022) It started as<br />
a traditional locals’<br />
café, but Koukos has<br />
evolved into one of<br />
the best mezedopolía<br />
(traditional snack bars)<br />
in otherwise touristy<br />
Neohóri district. The<br />
Tardis-like interior, on<br />
several levels, is a de<br />
facto antique museum;<br />
there’s also a counter<br />
for baked goods.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Stegna Kozas (Stegná<br />
Beach, Archángelos,<br />
tel: 22440 22632)<br />
Established in 1932,<br />
this friendly, top-fl ight<br />
seafood restaurant<br />
has shellfi sh, scaly fi sh<br />
and specialities like<br />
cuttlefi sh in its own<br />
ink. Starters, including<br />
chunky aubergine<br />
paté with pine nuts<br />
and sweet peppers,<br />
are excellent too. The<br />
service – including iced<br />
beer mugs – is also<br />
outstanding.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Ateya (20 Aktí Miaouli,<br />
tel: 6932 232959)<br />
Café Ateya is a cosy,<br />
characterful place with<br />
a good soundtrack,<br />
light snacks and a<br />
superb view of the<br />
sea. Occasional<br />
live music plays at<br />
weekends, including<br />
performances of<br />
classical pieces.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Colorado Centre (57<br />
Orfanidou, tel: 22410<br />
75120) The largest<br />
club in Neohóri, this<br />
multi-level, four-in-one<br />
venues has a chill-out<br />
zone and occasionally<br />
hosts DJs and live<br />
bands.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The sea has<br />
warmed up a bit now:<br />
try scuba diving near<br />
the old Art Nouveau<br />
spa at Pigés Kallithéas.<br />
Competing operators<br />
tout for business at<br />
Mandráki quay.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Rhodes is home to<br />
a dwarf variant of<br />
the fallow deer (dama<br />
dama) distinct from<br />
other populations.<br />
Marc Dubin<br />
Rome<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Athens, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />
Bilbao, Bristol, Corfu,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Malta,<br />
Milan (MXP), Mykonos,<br />
Nice, Palermo, Paris<br />
(ORY), Santorini, Split,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €40.<br />
The Bus Shuttle<br />
takes you to<br />
Termini station. Buy<br />
onboard tickets: €15.<br />
The Leonardo<br />
Express goes<br />
to Termini station.<br />
Tickets: €14.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Antonio<br />
al Pantheon (12 Via<br />
dei Pastini, tel: 06<br />
679 0798) Pietro and<br />
his family create a<br />
pleasant, welcoming<br />
atmosphere. Go for the<br />
delicious fresh pasta<br />
rolled in a a great big<br />
hunk of parmigiano.<br />
UP TO €30 Borgo<br />
Nuovo (104 Borgo<br />
Pio, tel: 06 589 2852)<br />
A short stroll from St<br />
Peter’s Square, Carlo<br />
Bartolomeo and his<br />
son Fabio put the<br />
accent on good honest<br />
food rather than fancy<br />
decor. For your fi rst<br />
course try the gnocchi<br />
with courgette and<br />
clams, and for the<br />
main go for the Roman<br />
speciality, tripe.<br />
UP TO €50 La<br />
Tartaruga (53 Via<br />
Monte della Farina,<br />
tel: 06 686 9473) This<br />
tiny restaurant has<br />
a similarly restricted<br />
but regularly changing<br />
menu, which refl ects<br />
the owner’s Friulian<br />
origins. Try the<br />
asparagus risotto or<br />
sample the cold meats<br />
and cheeses.<br />
EXCLUSIVE El<br />
Toula’ (29B Via della<br />
Lupa, tel: 06 687 3750)<br />
A stone’s throw from<br />
the Pantheon, this<br />
smart and luxurious<br />
venue, with its high<br />
vaulted ceilings and<br />
antique furniture,<br />
serves Venetian food<br />
prepared under the<br />
direction of Fabrizio<br />
Leggiero. Why not<br />
try one of a range of<br />
delicious risottos or<br />
his seafood, such as<br />
Sicilian red prawns<br />
and scallops with<br />
artichokes and<br />
marjoram soup? The<br />
exquisite chocolateand-tangerine<br />
passion<br />
with ricotta sauce is<br />
divine for dessert.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cul<br />
de Sac (73 Piazza<br />
Pasquino, tel: 06 6880<br />
1094) A perennially<br />
popular wine bar, near<br />
the Piazza Navona in<br />
the city centre, off ering<br />
wines from around<br />
the world. There are<br />
outside tables and a<br />
range of food.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Escopazzo (41 Via<br />
d’Aracoeli) If live jazz<br />
and funk are for you,<br />
this long-established<br />
cocktail lounge<br />
hosts concerts<br />
from Wednesday<br />
to Saturday.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Micca Club (7A Via<br />
Pietro Micca, tel: 06<br />
8744 0079) This club<br />
is dominated by an<br />
enormous circular<br />
staircase and fountain,<br />
a big dancefl oor with<br />
columns and arched<br />
ceilings. There are<br />
three bars, an art<br />
gallery, chill-out<br />
zone and a stage<br />
for live music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Regola 71,<br />
Emanuela Corbo’s<br />
ROME HILTON<br />
AIRPORT<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Cheek-by-jowl with<br />
the airport, this<br />
stay has everything<br />
a traveller needs,<br />
including free shuttle<br />
buses into the city.<br />
From €192, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
elegant shop, is tailored<br />
more for the older<br />
woman, <strong>may</strong>be a little<br />
bigger in the waist. It<br />
is modern but not too<br />
trendy, with a range<br />
of classical European<br />
designer clothes and<br />
accessories (71 Via dei<br />
Cappellari).<br />
SEE The Palazzo<br />
delle Esposizioni<br />
on Via Nazionale is<br />
showing the works<br />
of Arturo Ghergo,<br />
“Photographer of the<br />
Stars” (human, not<br />
heavenly ones). Open<br />
Tuesday, Wednesday,<br />
Thursday, 10am–8pm.<br />
GO If you walk into<br />
the Colle Oppio<br />
park next to the<br />
Colosseum, you can<br />
picnic or sleep on the<br />
grass, or <strong>may</strong>be go to<br />
the outdoor café and<br />
catch the motorcycle<br />
carabinieri riding up<br />
for their ice-cream<br />
and coff ee break.<br />
It also contains the<br />
remains of the Domus<br />
Aurea, a villa built<br />
by the Emperor Nero,<br />
after the great fi re<br />
in AD64 had razed<br />
the dwellings on<br />
the slopes of the<br />
Palatine Hill.<br />
ESCAPE Frascati is<br />
a hill town south of<br />
the city, renowned for<br />
its lovely white wine<br />
and great restaurants.<br />
It is worth a trip out<br />
for lunch.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Vatican <strong>may</strong> be<br />
the world’s smallest<br />
country but it houses<br />
one of the world’s<br />
largest museums.<br />
Alan Goldwater
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Santiago de<br />
Compostela<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
A bus goes to<br />
the centre every<br />
half hour. Tickets: €3<br />
single, €5 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Enxebre (1 Obradoiro<br />
Square) Within the<br />
majestic Parador in<br />
Obradoiro square, this<br />
is an informal corner<br />
for lunch. Come here<br />
for traditional dishes<br />
(such as octopus<br />
or empanada) in a<br />
nice atmosphere at<br />
aff ordable prices.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Carretas (21<br />
Carretas, tel: 981<br />
563 111) Looking for<br />
a smart atmosphere<br />
and proper local<br />
food without much<br />
experimentation?<br />
Then this place should<br />
prove a success.<br />
Carretas is a reliable<br />
option for a wide<br />
variety of dishes,<br />
including unbeatable<br />
Galician seafood.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Camalea (4 Praza<br />
San Martiño) Here,<br />
you’ll fi nd a warm<br />
atmosphere and an<br />
interesting drinks<br />
menu including<br />
natural fruit infusions,<br />
exotic milkshakes,<br />
coff ees and a<br />
variety of beers.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
A Medusa (1 Praza<br />
de Salvador Parga)<br />
Self-branded<br />
“alternative bar”, this<br />
is a recognisable spot.<br />
Alongside your<br />
drinks, you might<br />
be able see a photo<br />
exhibition, fl ick<br />
through some secondhand<br />
stuff for sale or<br />
enjoy the terrace,<br />
weather permitting.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The encaje de<br />
bolillos is a traditional<br />
Galician knitting<br />
technique, and Bolillos<br />
is a great place to<br />
learn all about it.<br />
Technically a shop<br />
selling linens and<br />
lingerie, there are also<br />
classes (40 Rúa Nova,<br />
bolilloscompostela.es).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
“Día das Letras<br />
Galegas”, on 17 May is<br />
a festival celebrating<br />
the region’s own<br />
language and<br />
literature. This year,<br />
it’s dedicated to the<br />
memory of writer<br />
Valentín Paz Andrade.<br />
Pablo Carballo<br />
Santorini<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
The airport bus<br />
runs every 30<br />
minutes from 6am to<br />
1am. Tickets: €2.40.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Aktaion (Main<br />
Square, Firostefani,<br />
tel: 22860 22336)<br />
Dine al fresco at this<br />
friendly, whitewashed<br />
taverna and enjoy a<br />
view of the volcano<br />
on one side and the<br />
lights of Imerovigli<br />
twinkling on the other.<br />
Try the homemade<br />
moussaka, Santorini<br />
white eggplant dip and<br />
fava-bean meatballs.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Koukoumavlos<br />
(Below Hotel Atlantis,<br />
Fira, tel: 22860<br />
23807) You’ll love the<br />
views from this old<br />
sea-captain’s house,<br />
as you sample chef<br />
Nikos Pouliasis’s<br />
award-winning Greek<br />
cuisine. His menu<br />
matches ingredients<br />
such as sea bass<br />
and local bitter<br />
orange, crayfi sh and<br />
white chocolate.<br />
NO HIDDEN NASTIES<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Sun<br />
Spirit (Oia, tel: 228<br />
607 1655) Tucked in<br />
next to one of Oia’s<br />
trademark windmills,<br />
this laidback bar<br />
off ers a superb<br />
view of Santorini’s<br />
famed sunset from<br />
its terrace. Get there<br />
early to bag a seat and<br />
enjoy the cocktails.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Tango (Fira, tel: 697<br />
449 8206) Crowdpleasing<br />
tunes and<br />
fresh fruit cocktails like<br />
strawberry caipirinhas<br />
and bellinis draw the<br />
faithful to this sleekly<br />
designed bar. If you’re<br />
tired of dancing, grab a<br />
sofa and enjoy the view<br />
of the caldera.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Spend an<br />
afternoon getting<br />
lost in the streets<br />
of Emporio, a<br />
whitewashed village<br />
overlooked by a cluster<br />
of ancient windmills.<br />
Be sure to try the sundried<br />
tomatoes and<br />
visit Palia Panagia, one<br />
of the island’s oldest<br />
churches.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Builders installing<br />
a new water supply<br />
in Perissa dug up<br />
an ancient relief,<br />
measuring almost 2m<br />
long, earlier this year.<br />
James Williams<br />
WE PROMISE THE PRICE YOU SEE IS THE PRICE YOU PAY,<br />
SO NO UNEXPECTED EXTRA CHARGES. GREAT!<br />
TAXI<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 171<br />
Seville<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
The airport bus<br />
runs every 30<br />
minutes from 6am to<br />
1am. Tickets: €2.40.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
EXCLUSIVE Corral<br />
del Agua (6 Calle del<br />
Agua, tel: 954 224<br />
841) A favourite with<br />
Seville’s slick business<br />
set, this Santa Cruz<br />
restaurant is worth<br />
the splurge, with its<br />
unmatched position<br />
and Moorish-inspired<br />
dishes and desserts.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Giralda (1 Calle Mateos<br />
Gago, tel: 954 563 702)<br />
Evocatively housed<br />
in a former Moorish<br />
bathhouse, this famous<br />
bar has heady views<br />
of the cathedral from<br />
its pavement seating.<br />
The tapas are reliably<br />
good as well. Try<br />
the espinacas con<br />
garbanzos (spinach<br />
with chickpeas).<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
El Arenal (7 Calle<br />
Rodo, tel: 954 216<br />
492) Founded in<br />
1975 and still one of<br />
the most authentic<br />
fl amenco shows in<br />
the city. El Arenal has<br />
nightly performances.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
fascinating photo<br />
exhibition at the<br />
Convento de Santa<br />
Clara (Calle Becas)<br />
featuring photos<br />
of Spain spanning<br />
the 19th and 20th<br />
centuries, organised<br />
by the Hispanic<br />
Society of America.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Almost 10 years<br />
ago, the weather<br />
station here recorded<br />
a temperature of<br />
47.2ºC, one of the<br />
highest temperatures<br />
ever recorded in<br />
Europe.<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Los Coloniales<br />
(Plaza Cristo de<br />
Burgos) This <strong>may</strong><br />
look like a pretty<br />
basic place but<br />
the tapas are<br />
outstanding. Share<br />
a plate of fried<br />
aubergine slices.<br />
Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers<br />
great car rental deals. For your discounted<br />
price book at<br />
easyJet.com or visit<br />
the Europcar desk.
172 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Sharm El<br />
Sheikh Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW, LTN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about EGP150.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Makani (Na’ama<br />
Bay and Hadaba, tel:<br />
069 366 4422) This<br />
popular bakery off ers<br />
an extensive range of<br />
delicious sandwiches,<br />
sushi and pastries,<br />
accompanied with<br />
your choice of fresh<br />
juice or gourmet<br />
coff ee.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
On Deck, Lido<br />
Iberotel (Na’ama Bay,<br />
tel: 069 360 2603)<br />
The perfect setting<br />
for an intimate<br />
candlelit supper.<br />
Tables are laid out<br />
on the pier, with the<br />
twinkling lights of<br />
Na’ama Bay on one<br />
side and the warm<br />
waters of the Red Sea<br />
below and all around<br />
you. Naturally, fi sh<br />
dishes are a speciality.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Camel<br />
Bar and Roof (Camel<br />
Hotel, Na‚ama Bay, tel:<br />
069 360 0700)<br />
Admire the beach<br />
from the rooftop and<br />
enjoy the sunset with<br />
some drinks from this<br />
bar, with its laid-back<br />
atmosphere, live<br />
music and big screens.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Hard Rock Cafe<br />
(Na’ama Bay, tel:<br />
069 360 2664) With<br />
its central location,<br />
the Hard Rock Café<br />
is a good choice for<br />
dining and clubbing.<br />
From midnight, the<br />
tables are cleared, the<br />
beer and cocktails<br />
keep fl owing and the<br />
partying doesn’t stop<br />
until the last person<br />
heads home.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO An introductory<br />
scuba dive will give<br />
you the perfect<br />
opportunity to<br />
experience the<br />
excitement of<br />
breathing underwater<br />
for the fi rst time.<br />
Join Sinai Divers for<br />
an unforgettable<br />
adventure in the ocean<br />
paradise of the Red<br />
Sea and fi nd out why<br />
millions of people all<br />
over the world enjoy<br />
this amazing sport<br />
(tel: 069 3600158).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Parts of the Red Sea<br />
coral reef are over<br />
5,000 years old.<br />
Penny Orford<br />
Sofia<br />
Bulgaria<br />
DIALLING CODE +359<br />
CURRENCY Leu (BGN)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about BGN14.<br />
Catch bus 84<br />
from Terminal 1 or<br />
bus 284 from Terminal<br />
2. Tickets: BGN1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Annette (27 Angel<br />
Kunchev Ulitza, tel:<br />
980 4098) Moroccan<br />
menu featuring<br />
tagines, couscous<br />
and lush, healthy<br />
salads. Finish off with<br />
mint tea and cedar<br />
nuts, or a lengthy<br />
puff on sweetfl<br />
avoured tobacco<br />
from a traditional<br />
water pipe.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Vratata (13 Kokiche<br />
Ulitsa, tel: ) Local<br />
game dishes feature<br />
on the menu here,<br />
as well as European,<br />
Greek and Turkish<br />
cuisine. The wine list<br />
is rich with Argentine,<br />
Italian, Spanish<br />
and Bulgarian<br />
wines to perfectly<br />
complement the<br />
delicious food.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Bilkova (22 Tsar<br />
Ivan Shishman<br />
Street, tel: 986<br />
4905) Watch locals<br />
strut along the street<br />
while you sip mixed<br />
drinks or draught<br />
beers in Bilkova’s<br />
casual garden or<br />
within its dark<br />
underground cavern.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Toba&co (6<br />
Moskovska Ulitsa, tel:<br />
989 4696) A 1950s<br />
bar, servers with<br />
attitude, decadent<br />
cocktails and heated<br />
garden terrace of<br />
sprawling sofas and<br />
random statues<br />
makes Toba&Co<br />
one part wicked, one<br />
part wondrous.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The biggest park<br />
in Sofi a, Borisova<br />
Garden, is the<br />
perfect place for<br />
sports, resting or<br />
just hanging around.<br />
Here, you’ll fi nd the<br />
National Stadium as<br />
well as tennis courts,<br />
cafés, horseriding<br />
centre, swimming<br />
pool and many<br />
more things to do<br />
and discover.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sofi a is the only city<br />
in Europe boasting<br />
eight separate<br />
mineral springs.<br />
Maya Kozareva<br />
Sitting S comfortably?<br />
Split<br />
Croatia<br />
DIALLING CODE +385<br />
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Milan (MXP, Paris<br />
(CDG), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
around HRK160.<br />
Bus 37 goes to<br />
Split’s main bus<br />
station. Tickets: HRK15.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Black<br />
Cat (1 Segviceva,<br />
tel: 021 490 284) A<br />
traveller favourite for<br />
as long as anyone<br />
can remember, this<br />
is where to come for<br />
some comfort food<br />
and to check your<br />
emails before hopping<br />
on a ferry bound for<br />
the gorgeous islands<br />
that lie just off shore.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Zrno<br />
Soli (Uvala Baluni,<br />
Split 21000, tel: 021<br />
399 383) A new arrival<br />
last year at the city’s<br />
main marina, this<br />
fun and funky eatery<br />
is where the local<br />
cool crowd come to<br />
munch on top-notch<br />
advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
Dalmatian seafood.<br />
Expect a few twists<br />
as well as all the<br />
fi shy staples.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Caff e Bar Fluid<br />
(1 Dosud) Tucked<br />
within the walls of<br />
Diocletian’s Palace,<br />
chill out here with<br />
cool cocktails and a<br />
similarly cool crowd.<br />
Live DJs on weekends.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Marjan, a forested<br />
hill to the west of the<br />
city centre, is easy to<br />
spot with a hulking<br />
Croatian fl ag billowing<br />
from its summit. Walk<br />
the trails, enjoy the<br />
breeze and take in the<br />
epic views.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
During the Homeland<br />
War in the 1990s,<br />
Split was completely<br />
cut off from Zagreb<br />
and the city was<br />
briefl y shelled.<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Café Bellevue (Trg<br />
Republike) Settle<br />
in at the café on a<br />
historic square just<br />
outside Diocletian’s<br />
Palace and admire<br />
the columns and<br />
the Adriatic Sea in<br />
the distance.<br />
Imagine over<br />
5 million people looking<br />
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />
Make ppart<br />
of your plan today<br />
150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/2011 15:01
DISCOVER THE PERFECT<br />
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combined with relaxing seclusion of the Le Meridien Split beach resort, the only modern luxury lifestyle beach resort in the<br />
region.<br />
Discover large rooms and suites, private marina, cool contemporary interiors designed by Lorenzo Bellini and<br />
mediterranean gardens landscaped by Jim Nicolay this summer - book our SUMMER SALE package for stays from May<br />
to September and reserve your perfect Croatian summer.<br />
SUMMER SALE<br />
BREAKFAST INCLUDED<br />
€10 VOUCHER FOR SPA & WELLNESS<br />
€10 VOUCHER FOR RESTAURANTS<br />
RATE FROM €169 (QUOTE EJSUMMER)<br />
LE MERIDIEN<br />
LAV, SPLIT<br />
N 43° 3’ E 16° 32’<br />
T +385 21 500 500<br />
lemeridienlavsplit.com
174 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Stockholm<br />
Sweden<br />
DIALLING CODE +46<br />
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about SEK500.<br />
Flygbussarna<br />
coaches depart<br />
for the city centre.<br />
Tickets: SEK 198 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Indian<br />
Garden Skrapan (18<br />
Västgötagatan, tel: 08<br />
640 7430) The second<br />
Indian Garden outpost<br />
is decked out in muted<br />
velvety gold and purple.<br />
The ambitiously<br />
seasoned dishes use<br />
the whole range of<br />
Indian spices, bringing<br />
out subtle fl avour and<br />
fragrance, not just heat.<br />
Sesame Lamb chops<br />
are 269 kronor.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Barbro<br />
(13 Hornstulls Strand,<br />
Södermalm, tel: 08<br />
550 60266) Barbro<br />
is only a few months<br />
old, but it has already<br />
become a destination<br />
for well-dressed,<br />
bespectacled creatives.<br />
Asian fl avours with<br />
a Scandinavian<br />
backbone characterise<br />
the kitchen. You can<br />
also eat in the<br />
cinema downstairs.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Brut<br />
Bar (4 Mäster<br />
Samuelsgatan) A<br />
swanky basement<br />
bar does not have<br />
to be an oxymoron.<br />
Champagne,<br />
charcuterie and<br />
oysters are on off er in<br />
this newly renovated<br />
subterranean locale.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Nalen (74<br />
Regeringsgatan,<br />
tel: 08 5052 9200)<br />
This beautiful, richly<br />
ornamented venue<br />
with three stages, a<br />
bar and restaurant,<br />
off ers a wide range of<br />
live music and some<br />
of the best club nights<br />
in town.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Långholmen is<br />
an idyllic green island<br />
sprinkled with beaches.<br />
This wasn’t always the<br />
case. Up until 1974,<br />
the island was actually<br />
Stockholm’s own<br />
Alcatraz. The former<br />
prison is now a hostel<br />
and a museum.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The only retail store<br />
in Sweden allowed<br />
to sell beverages<br />
containing more than<br />
3.5% alcohol is the<br />
government-run chain<br />
Systembolaget. You<br />
need to be 20 years<br />
old to shop there.<br />
Victoria Larsson<br />
Tallinn<br />
Estonia<br />
DIALLING CODE +372<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €10.<br />
Route 2 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Olde<br />
Hansa (1 Vana Turg,<br />
tel: 627 9020) Come<br />
to the mysterious Old<br />
Town and feast in Olde<br />
Hansa like Hanseatic<br />
merchants, in merry,<br />
medieval style.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Horisont (Swissôtel<br />
Tallinn, 3 Tornimäe,<br />
tel: 624 2416) The<br />
chic and sophisticated<br />
Horisont Restaurant,<br />
Bar and Cigar Lounge<br />
off ers a modern<br />
and eclectic mix of<br />
dining underlined by<br />
great service, with<br />
spectacular views<br />
over the Old Town<br />
and the bay.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Lounge<br />
24 (Radisson Blu<br />
Hotel, 3 Rävala, tel:<br />
682 3424) Teetering<br />
on the 24th fl oor,<br />
this bar attracts a<br />
sophisticated crowd<br />
keen to enjoy the<br />
great drinks and<br />
fabulous views of the<br />
city. The terrace bar<br />
is a formidable<br />
90 metres above<br />
street level.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Club Hollywood<br />
(8 Vana-Posti, tel:<br />
627 4770) One of<br />
the hottest places<br />
in Tallinn. Club<br />
Hollywood is usually<br />
packed to the limits<br />
with young party<br />
animals.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
When was the last time<br />
you visited a village<br />
shop, never mind<br />
opened one? Well,<br />
you can participate<br />
at the opening of the<br />
Lau village shop at<br />
Estonian Open Air<br />
Museum on 22 May.<br />
Ain Hinsberg<br />
OLD TOWN<br />
DAYS<br />
GO Old Town<br />
bursts into a frenzy<br />
of celebration as<br />
musicians, medieval<br />
characters, markets<br />
and events fi ll<br />
the streets (26<br />
May – 2 June,<br />
vanalinnapaevad.ee).<br />
Tangier<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Madrid,<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about MAD150.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Miramar Restaurant<br />
(Avenue Mohammed<br />
VI ) This low-key bar<br />
on the beachfront<br />
off ers an excellent<br />
selection of free tapas<br />
in over-the-top kitsch<br />
surrounds. A favourite<br />
with locals, its relaxed,<br />
friendly vibe and<br />
proximity to nightclubs<br />
makes it inviting, both<br />
as a refuge from the<br />
bustle outside and as<br />
good place to have<br />
a pre-night-out drink.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Casa<br />
España (Ave Jebha<br />
Watania, tel: 0539 94<br />
73 59) The mango and<br />
baked goat’s cheese<br />
salad; endive, smoked<br />
salmon and roquefort<br />
salad; and tomato soup<br />
are all good starters at<br />
this Spanish club. Don’t<br />
be too surprised at the<br />
amazing paella: you’re<br />
only 15km from the<br />
coast of Spain.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Eric<br />
Kayser (Rue des<br />
Amoureux, tel: 05<br />
3933 1683) French<br />
master baker Eric<br />
Kayser takes breadmaking<br />
to another<br />
level, using local<br />
ingredients. His café is<br />
located in an upmarket<br />
district, attracting<br />
Tangier’s yuppie set.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Chellah Beach Club<br />
(Avenue Mohammed<br />
VI, Ville Nouvelle,<br />
tel: 0539 325 068)<br />
Throughout summer,<br />
live bands play under<br />
the stars. Monday is<br />
open-mic night, when<br />
fresh, local musical<br />
talent comes out to<br />
perform. A relaxed and<br />
sociable vibe.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Tangier<br />
International Book Fair.<br />
Now in its 16th year,<br />
the annual book fair<br />
attracts publishers,<br />
writers, readers,<br />
artists, scientists<br />
and children. A good<br />
opportunity to sample<br />
local writing in several<br />
languages (1–5 May,<br />
Palais des Institutions,<br />
2 Avenue Hassan).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Perdicaris House,<br />
the haunted ruin in<br />
Ramilat Park, was<br />
used as a location<br />
in horror fi lm<br />
The Exorcist.<br />
Aman te Water
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Tel Aviv<br />
Israel<br />
DIALLING CODE +972<br />
CURRENCY ILS<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about ILS150.<br />
Trains run to<br />
the city centre<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: ILS14.5.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Dr<br />
Shakshuka (3 Beit<br />
Eshel, Jaff a, tel: 682<br />
2842) Legendary<br />
as the go-to place<br />
for Israel’s favourite<br />
brunch dish – eggs<br />
lightly baked in a<br />
spicy tomato sauce.<br />
Open six days a<br />
week until midnight.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Montenegro (26<br />
Nachmani Street, tel:<br />
566 3331) Creating<br />
a big buzz with local<br />
celebs with its colourful<br />
decor and chic location<br />
just behind Rothschild<br />
Boulevard. Cuisine is an<br />
out-there mix of Balkan<br />
specialities including<br />
white fi sh with feta, and<br />
old-school Jewish<br />
deli favourites such as<br />
chopped liver.<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Making<br />
Waves<br />
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in Portugal for sun, sand and –<br />
offi cially – Europe’s best surf<br />
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AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Porter<br />
& Sons (14 Harbaa<br />
Street, tel: 624 4355)<br />
A proper tavern with<br />
Bavarian wheat beer<br />
and strong Belgian<br />
lager among the 50<br />
ales on tap. Sausages,<br />
fi sh and chips and<br />
other pub snacks are<br />
available to soak up<br />
the booze.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Madonna<br />
performs at the<br />
National Football<br />
Stadium in Ramat Gan,<br />
where the Queen of<br />
Kabbalah, a frequent<br />
visitor to Israel, will<br />
launch her <strong>2012</strong> world<br />
tour on 29 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Tel Aviv is home to<br />
the world’s largest<br />
diamond exchange,<br />
and visitors can get<br />
a free four-hour tour,<br />
including major city<br />
highlights, from the<br />
Israel Diamond Centre<br />
Anthea Gerrie<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Hamara Bar (87<br />
Hayarkon Street,<br />
tel: 522 6464) A<br />
lively lounge serving<br />
pomegranate<br />
cosmopolitans and<br />
other signature<br />
cocktails till the last<br />
customer leaves.<br />
Tenerife<br />
South Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Route 487 stops<br />
at Los Cristianos<br />
and Playa de Las<br />
Américas. Tickets: €3.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Mamma Rosa<br />
(Avenida Santiago<br />
Puig, Colon II, Playa de<br />
Las Américas, tel: 922<br />
794 819) Always busy,<br />
this European venue<br />
serves such specialities<br />
as sole fi llets in king<br />
prawn and white wine<br />
sauce. Situated near<br />
the popular harbour.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Dante<br />
Alighieri (Avenida<br />
Rafael Puig, Playa de<br />
las Américas, tel: 922<br />
750 473) Enjoy topquality<br />
Italian cuisine<br />
in the heart of the<br />
bustling town of Playa<br />
de las Américas. The<br />
restaurant is situated<br />
on the coastal path and<br />
boasts spectacular sea<br />
views – perfect for<br />
a romantic dinner.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Nuestro (12 Calle San<br />
Roque, Los Cristianos)<br />
To sample a taste of<br />
Canarian cuisine, try<br />
this authentic bar and<br />
restaurant with its<br />
farm-style decor and<br />
fabulous tapas.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Restaurante Patch<br />
(Centro Comercial<br />
American, tel: 922 752<br />
949) In the heart of<br />
Las Américas lies one<br />
of Tenerife’s oldest<br />
and most well-known<br />
bars, which attracts<br />
many tourists owing<br />
to its great beachside<br />
location and pavement<br />
setting. Great food<br />
and live music are<br />
off ered nightly.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO A visit to see the<br />
Katandra Treetops<br />
attraction at the Loro<br />
Parque in Puerto de<br />
la Cruz is well worth<br />
the one-and-a-half<br />
hour bus journey.<br />
Viewers can witness<br />
the free fl ight of some<br />
of Australia’s most<br />
dazzling birds as well<br />
as have fun with the<br />
cheeky monkeys!<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The island’s original<br />
inhabitants were<br />
called Guanches and<br />
evidence of their<br />
existence remains<br />
today in the historic<br />
old town of Masca.<br />
Natasha Laming<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 175<br />
Thessaloniki<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Dortmund,<br />
London (LGW), Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 78 goes<br />
directly to the<br />
city centre. Tickets:<br />
€0.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Ladokolla stin<br />
Platia (9 Platia<br />
Navarinou, tel: 2310<br />
266 432) Unlike most<br />
of the ouzeris that<br />
cluster around Platia<br />
Navarinou, this simple<br />
taverna specialises<br />
in tenderly grilled<br />
meat served up on<br />
greaseproof paper, as<br />
you’d suspect by the<br />
establishment’s name.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Kivotos ton Yefseon<br />
(26 Patriarchi Ioakim,<br />
tel: 2310 211 711)<br />
The name, which<br />
means “the Ark of<br />
Flavours”, hints at how<br />
traditional recipes<br />
If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />
and cannot take it with you, visit<br />
traveller.‰.com<br />
.com<br />
are preserved and<br />
presented with fresh<br />
ingredients in a<br />
classy dining room<br />
adorned with old<br />
fi lm screenshots.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Aigli<br />
(3 Agiou Nikolaou,<br />
tel: 2310 270 016)<br />
An atmospheric spot<br />
for an early-evening<br />
cocktail or coff ee in<br />
part of a converted<br />
Turkish hammam,<br />
which also doubles<br />
up as an outdoor<br />
cinema during the<br />
summer months.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Ta Kefi a (111 Agiou<br />
Dimitriou) One of the<br />
best central clubs in<br />
which to get a taste<br />
of various styles of<br />
quality Greek music<br />
from rembetika<br />
to entekhno, in a<br />
friendly place with<br />
rustic decor.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The bizarre<br />
pagan Anastenaria<br />
Firewalking Festival,<br />
when participants<br />
walk on live coals in<br />
a trance, takes place<br />
in Langada, on the<br />
outskirts of the city,<br />
from 21–23 May.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In August 1917, over<br />
three quarters of<br />
the old town burnt<br />
to the ground in<br />
a cataclysmic<br />
fi re, leaving more<br />
than 70,000<br />
people homeless<br />
and decimating<br />
businesses.<br />
Nick Edwards
splash<br />
time<br />
fantastic 4* all inclusive holiday deals<br />
on the holidays website<br />
Malta, Algarve, Egypt and<br />
Majorca holidays<br />
from<br />
£ 285<br />
pp^ ^Prices have extremely limited availability and were correct and available on the easyJet Holidays website on 10/4/<strong>2012</strong>. Price all inclusive holidays from £285pp is based on two people sharing a studio staying at the<br />
4* Club Bellevue Apartments for 7 nights on an all-inclusive board basis departing from London Luton airport to Palma, Majorca (PMI) on the 6th of October <strong>2012</strong>. Admin fee applies and additional charges for credit<br />
card payment, baggage and transfers. The arrangements for a holiday booked on the easyJet Holidays website are made by easyJet, acting as principal for fl ights and as disclosed agent for travel insurance, car rental<br />
and airport parking; and by lowcostbeds acting as agent for accommodation and transfers.
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Toulouse<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Bristol, Brussels,<br />
Geneva, Lille, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />
Nantes, Nice, Paris<br />
(CDG, ORY), Porto,<br />
Rome, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
The Toulouse-<br />
Blagnac Navette<br />
goes to the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €5 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Manger Autrement<br />
(155 Grande Rue Saint-<br />
Michel, tel: 05 6132<br />
6841) This restaurant<br />
serves organic dishes<br />
such as aubergine<br />
tarts at lunchtime. The<br />
chef is Indian, so you’ll<br />
get samosas, curries<br />
and pappadams in<br />
the evening.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Les<br />
Copains D’Abord<br />
(38 Rue du Pont-<br />
Guillemery, tel: 05<br />
6247 3999) Longestablished<br />
restaurant<br />
<br />
featuring a huge fresco<br />
of French fi lmstars and<br />
singers dominating<br />
the entrance. Cuisine<br />
is traditional; try the<br />
roast pigeon, cassoulet<br />
or the foie gras.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Point<br />
Carré (110 Avenue<br />
Jules-Julien, tel: 05<br />
3431 4994) A beautiful<br />
spot with a warm<br />
welcome, this is great<br />
for an early evening<br />
drink and <strong>may</strong>be<br />
something simple to<br />
eat. Le Point Carré has<br />
the charm to make you<br />
forget all other plans<br />
and stay all night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Puerto Habana (12<br />
Rue Port Saint-Etienne,<br />
tel: 05 6154 4561)<br />
Salsa lessons are held<br />
here from Tuesday<br />
to Thursday at 8pm,<br />
and then you’re ready<br />
to hit the dance fl oor<br />
with a vengeance. Also<br />
sell great mojitos and<br />
sangría. Live music<br />
Saturday nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Cité de<br />
l’Espace is just outside<br />
Toulouse but is well<br />
worth a day trip. Sit in<br />
the space rockets and<br />
learn everything about<br />
space exploration and<br />
cosmic activity (citeespace.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Miss Van, one of the<br />
best-known graffi ti<br />
artists in Europe, was<br />
born in Toulouse. Look<br />
out for her work all<br />
over the city.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Valencia<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €16.<br />
Metro lines 3<br />
and 5 run to the<br />
city centre and train<br />
station. Tickets: €1.90.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
El Rall (3 Calle<br />
Turnidores, tel: 96<br />
392 2090) One<br />
of the best paella<br />
restaurants in the city<br />
centre. Remember<br />
that the famous rice<br />
dish is traditionally<br />
eaten for lunch,<br />
not dinner.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Joaquin Schmidt (7<br />
Calle Visitación, tel:<br />
96 340 1710) For 15<br />
years, Mr Schmidt<br />
has held true to his<br />
philosophy to cook<br />
each day for 30<br />
people only. Book<br />
early and enjoy the<br />
quirky atmosphere<br />
and his experimental<br />
cuisine. Just north of<br />
the Turia River.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
de las Horas (1 Conde<br />
De Almodóvar, tel:<br />
96 391 7336) This<br />
sumptuous, baroqueinspired<br />
lounge bar<br />
is one of the best<br />
places to sit and<br />
plan the evening’s<br />
entertainment over<br />
a delicious agua de<br />
Valencia or one of their<br />
other cocktails.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Pinball (3 Calle<br />
Concordia) Kitsch,<br />
vintage-style bar in the<br />
heart of Carmen. White<br />
plastic seats, pop-art<br />
and disco balls set the<br />
scene as a young and<br />
arty crowd sway to<br />
funky soul on the tiny<br />
dance fl oor. Open late.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
L’Oceanogràfi c is the<br />
largest oceanographic<br />
park in Europe,<br />
consisting of 110,000<br />
m 2 fi lled with 42<br />
million litres of water.<br />
Andy McNicoll<br />
CITY OF ARTS<br />
AND SCIENCES<br />
GO The City of<br />
Arts and Sciences<br />
(La Ciudad de las<br />
Artes y las Ciencias)<br />
is a modern-day<br />
architectural wonder<br />
from Santiago<br />
Calatrava. Head<br />
down on a sunny day.<br />
Venice<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />
Lisbon, London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Naples,<br />
Nice, Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />
Rome, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
<br />
<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 177<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A water taxi costs €100.<br />
The ATVO bus<br />
takes 20 minutes<br />
to Piazzale Roma.<br />
Tickets: €5 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Cavatappi (525<br />
Campo della Guerra,<br />
San Marco, tel: 041<br />
2960252) Despite<br />
being so close to busy<br />
Piazza San Marco, this<br />
simple place serves<br />
authentic Venetian<br />
fare at honest prices.<br />
Choice is limited but<br />
you can’t go wrong<br />
with the daily specials.<br />
UP TO €30 Ai<br />
Tre Scaini (53C<br />
Calle Michelangelo,<br />
Giudecca, tel: 041<br />
5224790) Come to<br />
this down-to-earth<br />
trattoria for delicious<br />
seafood and other<br />
local dishes in a<br />
welcoming, homely<br />
atmosphere. It’s on<br />
Giudecca island, not<br />
far from the Zitelle<br />
vaporetto boat stop.<br />
UP TO €50 A<br />
Beccafi co (2801<br />
Campo Santo Stefano,<br />
tel: 041 5274879)<br />
Delicious Sicilian<br />
specialities are the<br />
name of the game<br />
at this smart, quality<br />
restaurant. Choose<br />
from satisfying pasta<br />
dishes, fresh tuna<br />
and swordfi sh steaks,<br />
creamy desserts<br />
and much more.<br />
Don’t miss the<br />
fruity sorbets.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Venissa (3<br />
Fondamenta Santa<br />
Caterina, Mazzorbo,<br />
tel: 041 5272281)<br />
Located on a historic<br />
wine estate on<br />
Mazzorba island -<br />
which is attached to<br />
Burano – Venissa is<br />
run by one of Italy’s<br />
best young chefs,<br />
Paola Budel. Creativity,<br />
fresh ingredients and<br />
memorable fl avours<br />
make a meal here<br />
a must for lovers<br />
of good food.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caff è<br />
Florian (56–59<br />
Piazza San Marco,<br />
San Marco, tel: 041<br />
5205641) Dating from<br />
1720, Caff è Florian<br />
is one of Venice’s<br />
most prestigious<br />
landmarks. The<br />
atmospheric frescoed<br />
interiors have hosted<br />
prominent fi gures
Comune di Favignana<br />
Sicily’s Egadi Archipelago<br />
Sicily’s Egadi Archipelago, only a few kilometres west of Trapani, is comprised of three<br />
main islands, Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo, and the islets of Formica and Maraone. The largest<br />
of these is Favignana, home to 33km of magnifi cent coastline, and particularly easy to visit thanks to its<br />
numerous fl at roads, which are ideal for cyclists.<br />
The smallest island, Levanzo, has a surface area of only fi ve square kilometres. The ‘Genovese Grotto’ is<br />
found here – a prehistoric cave complete with images of men, beasts and fi sh, which date back to the<br />
Paleolithic and Neolithic eras. The jewel of the group is Marettimo, which the ancient Greeks considered<br />
sacred. Green and rugged it is home to various species absent throughout the rest of Sicily.<br />
NEAREST AIRPORT: PALERMO<br />
Visit www.egadiwelcome.it<br />
for tourist information and accommodation.<br />
50% discount off all brands<br />
ARMANI - AJ - BALENCIAGA - BOSS - BURBERRY<br />
CANALI - CAVALLI - D2 - DIOR - D&G - FENDI - GUCCI<br />
ICEBERG - LANVIN - LORO PIANA - MOSCHINO<br />
PRADA - STONE ISLAND - VERSACE - YSL - ZEGNA<br />
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK<br />
VIA OMBONI<br />
VIA RAMAZZINI<br />
VIALE REGINA GIOVANNA<br />
Metro M1 - red line<br />
Loreto<br />
Lima<br />
P.ta Venezia<br />
P.le Lavater<br />
Palestro<br />
San Babila<br />
Duomo<br />
Monday to Friday 10.00-19.00<br />
Saturday - 10.00 to 19.30<br />
Sunday 10.00 - 13.00<br />
15.30 - 19.00<br />
Via Ramazzini 11<br />
angolo P.le Lavater (MI)<br />
ph. +39 02 29514497<br />
A 150 mt. da Corso Buenos Aires<br />
150 mt. from Corso Buenos Aires
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Venice<br />
Italy<br />
from politics<br />
and the arts over<br />
the centuries.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Collegium Ducale<br />
(4209 Palazzo delle<br />
Prigioni, Castello,<br />
tel: 041 988155) The<br />
former prison linked to<br />
the Doge’s Palace by<br />
the Bridge of Sighs is<br />
the splendid location<br />
for opera and Baroque<br />
concerts, held daily<br />
except Thursdays<br />
and Saturdays.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
La Bella Pollastrella<br />
(408 Fondamenta<br />
Venier, Cannaregio,<br />
tel: 041 5227613)<br />
Eight kinds of beer on<br />
tap, themed music<br />
nights and live bands<br />
as well as fi ngerlicking<br />
chicken dishes<br />
and tasty pizzas in a<br />
great location on the<br />
Cannaregio canal.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Gilberto<br />
Penzo is on a mission<br />
to preserve the<br />
magnifi cent Venetian<br />
boat-building culture.<br />
As well as restoring<br />
historic vessels, he<br />
makes reproductions<br />
and perfect scale<br />
models. Visit him at<br />
his shop where you<br />
can also buy DIY<br />
mini-gondola kits<br />
(2681 Calle Seconda<br />
dei Saoneri, San Polo,<br />
tel: 041 5246139,<br />
veniceboats.com).<br />
SEE Each year on<br />
Ascension Day, Venice<br />
celebrates its special<br />
relationship with the<br />
sea in a ceremony<br />
during which the<br />
<strong>may</strong>or throws a<br />
ring into the water<br />
between St Mark’s<br />
and Lido island.<br />
There’s also a regatta<br />
pageant, rowing<br />
races and colourful<br />
market stalls by the<br />
church of San Nicolo<br />
on Lido (Festa della<br />
Sensa, 20 May <strong>2012</strong>).<br />
GO Although the<br />
famous Biennale Art<br />
Festival is next held<br />
in 2013, it’s worth<br />
strolling as far as the<br />
Biennale Gardens to<br />
explore this attractive,<br />
less-frequented part<br />
of the city. See the<br />
curious structures<br />
of the various<br />
national pavilions<br />
used during the event.<br />
ESCAPE Take the<br />
train to Treviso (30<br />
minutes) and explore<br />
the pretty centre<br />
with its historic<br />
buildings and winding<br />
canals. While here<br />
enjoy a glass of<br />
sparkling locally<br />
made prosecco and<br />
try a risotto with<br />
the area’s famous<br />
red salad leaves –<br />
radicchio trevigiano.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
While in Venice,<br />
you’re bound to<br />
see numerous café<br />
tables laden with<br />
interesting-looking<br />
bright orange drinks.<br />
If you’re curious to<br />
try the city’s favourite<br />
cocktail, order a<br />
spritz. It’s made with<br />
light and fruity Aperol,<br />
prosecco and soda.<br />
Sarah Lane<br />
Verona<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
runs between<br />
the airport and the<br />
city centre every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €6.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Vecio<br />
Mulin (42A Via<br />
Sottoriva, tel: 045<br />
8065146) A historic<br />
trattoria with a<br />
riverside location. Sit<br />
on the narrow terrace<br />
over the water and<br />
feast on dishes such as<br />
bigoli (thick spaghetti)<br />
with sardines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Osteria La Fontanina<br />
(3 Portichetti<br />
Fontanelle, tel: 045<br />
913305) Draped in ivy,<br />
this restaurant has<br />
been going strong for<br />
over two centuries.<br />
Deservedly sporting<br />
a Michelin star,<br />
the menu features<br />
imaginative dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Osteria<br />
Vienna City Tour & Schönbrunn Palace<br />
Le Vecete (32 Via<br />
Pellicciai) The city’s<br />
oldest wine-bar has it<br />
all – atmosphere, tasty<br />
snacks and best of all<br />
a fantastic selection<br />
of quality wines.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Interno 5 (35E Via<br />
Murari Bra) Fantastic<br />
cocktails and great<br />
music make this<br />
groovy lounge-bar a<br />
place worth seeking<br />
out. Come mingle with<br />
the beautiful people<br />
of Verona.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE If you’re in<br />
Verona on 13 May,<br />
head to the Bentegodi<br />
stadium to see Chievo<br />
play Lecce in the fi nal<br />
match of the Serie<br />
A season. Yellow and<br />
blue are the colours<br />
you’ll need to blend in.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The lady in the fountain<br />
in Piazza Erbe, known<br />
as Madonna Verona,<br />
represents the city.<br />
Sarah Lane<br />
PALAZZO<br />
VICTORIA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This beautiful,<br />
newly opened hotel,<br />
in the centre of<br />
Verona is idyllic. No<br />
attention to detail<br />
has been missed.<br />
From €211, book at<br />
palazzovictoria.com<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 179<br />
Vienna<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The CAT trains to<br />
the centre leave<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €9 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Zum<br />
Schwarzen Kameel<br />
(5 Bognergasse, tel: 01<br />
533 8125) See if you<br />
can snatch an outdoor<br />
table at this supremely<br />
elegant sandwich bar<br />
where Beethoven once<br />
supped. An ideal place<br />
to watch passers by.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Walter Bauer (17<br />
Sonnenfelsgasse,<br />
tel: 01 512 9871) A<br />
discreet, old-fashioned<br />
charmer that off ers<br />
delectable Austrian<br />
fare, Walter Bauer is<br />
a good place to start<br />
if you’re looking for<br />
upmarket local cuisine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
MAK-Café (5<br />
Euro 39,- (Schönbrunn Palace guided tour included)<br />
<br />
<br />
G<br />
Info: 0043 (0) 1 712 46 83 www.viennasightseeingtours.com<br />
Stubenring, tel: 01 714<br />
0121) Hidden away<br />
in the Museum of<br />
Applied Arts (MAK),<br />
this stylish haunt<br />
has many aces up its<br />
sleeve. Not least the<br />
garden, which comes<br />
into its own in May.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Pratersauna (135<br />
Waldsteingarten<br />
strasse) Once upon<br />
a time, this now-hip<br />
hangout was a fi tness<br />
club. DJs keep things<br />
ticking over with<br />
the freshest beats<br />
and blips. Open<br />
Wednesday to Sunday.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Those of a<br />
romantic disposition<br />
might enjoy wandering<br />
the avenues of the<br />
vast Zentralfriedhof<br />
cemetery. The tombs –<br />
many of them works of<br />
art in their own right –<br />
are practically a roll call<br />
of the city’s greats, with<br />
Beethoven, Brahms,<br />
Schubert, Schoenberg<br />
and several members<br />
of the Strauss family.<br />
Don’t miss the glorious<br />
Schloss Concordia<br />
restaurant, opposite.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Wien Museum has<br />
launched an unlikely<br />
contest to tie in with<br />
the 150th anniversary<br />
of painter Gustav<br />
Klimt’s birth. Worst of<br />
Klimt showcases the<br />
most tacky tributes to<br />
the artist ever made,<br />
with candidates so far<br />
including teddy bears<br />
and fl ip-fl ops.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
vienna-life.com
180 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com<br />
Zagreb<br />
Croatia<br />
DIALLING CODE +385<br />
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Dortmund,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about 250HRK.<br />
The Pleso<br />
Prijevoz buses<br />
run to the city centre<br />
Tickets: 30HRK.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Pizzeria Kariola (16A<br />
Kranjceviceva, tel: 01<br />
366 7044) The locals<br />
love their pizza and you<br />
can enjoy a gorgeous,<br />
thin-crust pizza here<br />
with a tempting and<br />
generous choice<br />
of toppings.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Black<br />
Rock (30 Savska, tel:<br />
01 482 0555) It <strong>may</strong><br />
sound a bit lazy letting<br />
you cook your own<br />
steak, but you can<br />
cook your own slab<br />
of prime beef just the<br />
way you like it with<br />
a hearty glass of red<br />
wine to match at this<br />
popular eatery.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bacchus<br />
Jazz Bar (16 Trg<br />
Kralja Tomislava, tel:<br />
01 49 22 218) You<br />
don’t need to love<br />
jazz to enjoy this city<br />
centre temple to<br />
the beautiful genre<br />
of music, but it helps.<br />
Settle in for some<br />
smooth sounds and<br />
a cool cocktail.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Funk (52 Tkalciceva)<br />
This schizophrenic<br />
nightlife space has<br />
a pumping bar-club<br />
downstairs as well as<br />
a more laidback<br />
café upstairs. Take<br />
your pick or swap<br />
between them for<br />
two nights in one.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Tale of Two Cities –<br />
Zagreb began life<br />
as two separate<br />
communities: Gradec<br />
and Kaptol. They<br />
grew independently<br />
and today both<br />
still boast unique<br />
characters all of their<br />
own.<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
ST MARK’S<br />
CHURCH<br />
GO The historic<br />
oasis of the Upper<br />
Town, boasts cobbled<br />
streets, gorgeous<br />
churches, a fl urry of<br />
museums, plenty of<br />
bars and restaurants<br />
and views to boot.<br />
Ideal for a wander.<br />
Zante<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €13.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Castello Panorama<br />
(Limni Keriou, tel:<br />
26950 48708)<br />
You can enjoy<br />
unsurpassed views of<br />
the delightful bay from<br />
the terrace, which is<br />
set on a rocky outcrop,<br />
while selecting items<br />
from the wide menu<br />
of freshly caught fi sh<br />
and grilled meat, as<br />
well as all the usual<br />
dips and salads.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Porto Limnionas<br />
(Agios Leon, tel:<br />
26950 48650)<br />
Apart from the wide<br />
selection of tasty<br />
mezze plates and<br />
main dishes on off er<br />
here, you can enjoy<br />
splendid sunsets from<br />
the patio perched<br />
on a rocky outcrop<br />
above the sparkling<br />
waters. Try the rich<br />
rabbit stifado (stew) or<br />
courgette balls.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Venue Cocktail Bar<br />
(Kalamaki, tel: 26950<br />
22340) Livens up<br />
later but is best as<br />
a daytime or early<br />
evening watering hole,<br />
when you can enjoy a<br />
range of beers, wines<br />
and over 50 cocktails,<br />
whilst admiring the<br />
colourful fi sh tanks<br />
or catching a<br />
sporting event.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Insomnia (Main St,<br />
Laganas, tel: 26950<br />
52145) Another one<br />
of the major players<br />
on the strip’s main<br />
drag, which vies for<br />
the custom of young<br />
clubbers with a heady<br />
mix of dry ice, free<br />
shots and cuttingedge<br />
dance sounds.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE If you’re<br />
around on 3 May, the<br />
picturesque mountain<br />
village of Maherado<br />
hosts its annual<br />
festival of song and<br />
dance to celebrate<br />
the feast of the local<br />
church’s patron saint<br />
Agia Mavra.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 1960, the remains of<br />
renowned Zakynthian<br />
poet Andreas Kalvos<br />
(1792–1869) were<br />
returned to the island<br />
from Lincolnshire,<br />
where he had lived out<br />
his last years with his<br />
English wife.<br />
Nick Edwards<br />
Zürich<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
MEETING HOTEL RESTAURANT CASINO EVENT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs 60CHF<br />
Trains leave<br />
the airport<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
Tickets: 6.40CHF.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Eichhörnli (16<br />
Nietengasse, tel:<br />
044 241 11 28) The<br />
“squirrel” is the sort of<br />
place where the staff<br />
like to have a chat and<br />
make you feel at home<br />
quickly. There are<br />
many Swiss, French<br />
and Italian standards<br />
on the menu. The<br />
chef sticks to the<br />
seasons, and there’s<br />
a good selection<br />
of Swiss wines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Clouds<br />
(5 Maagplatz, tel: 044<br />
404 30 00) On the<br />
top fl oor of the newly<br />
opened Prime Tower<br />
you can overlook<br />
the whole city while<br />
enjoying the excellent<br />
cuisine which<br />
marries fi ne dining<br />
classics and<br />
heavenly inspiration.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Mövenpick Wein Bar<br />
(1 Nüschelerstrasse,<br />
tel: 044 211 91 39) At<br />
the Mövenpick, you’ll<br />
fi nd around 250 wines<br />
from Switzerland<br />
and all around the<br />
world. Many of the<br />
wines are sold by<br />
the glass. Choose<br />
a glass of wine, sit<br />
back and relax.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Apartment 22 (22<br />
Neufrankengasse, tel:<br />
043 317 15 50) The<br />
huge windows of this<br />
club look straight<br />
onto the railway<br />
tracks. So close you<br />
can actually wave<br />
to the passengers<br />
while shaking your<br />
booty. The DJ spins<br />
mostly R’n’B, hip<br />
hop and disco.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO May is a perfect<br />
time for the lakeside.<br />
Start your walk at<br />
Bellevue and enjoy the<br />
park along the shore,<br />
take a break at one of<br />
the outdoor cafés or<br />
rent a boat at one<br />
of the rental places.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Zürich has more than<br />
43 museums with<br />
all kinds of exhibits<br />
from contemporary<br />
art right through to<br />
money itself – well,<br />
this is Zürich.<br />
Chris Young, zurich.<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
EVENT HOTEL ON<br />
LAKE OF ZURICH<br />
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B&B_April_<strong>2012</strong>_Version3.indd 1
PHOTO © TONY FRENCH<br />
10<br />
PAGES OF<br />
NEWS AND<br />
UPDATES<br />
FROM<br />
BEHIND THE SCENES<br />
Airline captain Jean-Patrick Fays on the lows and highs of life in the skies<br />
EVER SINCE I WAS 10 years old, I’ve<br />
wanted to be a pilot. I went straight into<br />
fl ying once I fi nished my degree and<br />
have been at easyJet for eight years. It<br />
means working odd days and odd hours,<br />
but it provides the best offi ce with a<br />
view – from the fl ight deck, we get to see<br />
some amazing landscapes and sunsets.<br />
It’s a wonderful feeling to fl y and a huge<br />
responsibility.<br />
easyJet employs a great bunch<br />
of people from all over Europe, with<br />
diff erent backgrounds and cultures.<br />
This makes my work fun and a lot<br />
easier. The fl exibility and dynamism<br />
of our staff allows most problems to<br />
be solved effi ciently. It’s also nice to<br />
be able to fl y to diff erent places. My<br />
European geography knowledge has<br />
improved tremendously!<br />
No two days are the same at easyJet,<br />
but a typical shift starts in the crew<br />
room, where we get all the paperwork,<br />
and cabin crews and pilots brief each<br />
other. We then make our way to the<br />
aircraft in order to prepare it for the<br />
passengers. Most fl ights tend to be<br />
relatively short, but this suits me<br />
well, as take-off s and landings are my<br />
favourite bits.<br />
I grew up in Grenoble and learned to<br />
fl y in the Alps, and Geneva is still one of<br />
my favourite easyJet destinations. The<br />
approaches into the airport are<br />
beautiful, with wonderful views. Coming<br />
in on a morning, Mont Blanc welcomes<br />
you into the airport as the sun rises<br />
in the background. The airport is very<br />
effi cient, and a nice cup of coff ee with<br />
a mean piece of chocolate is always<br />
NEWS | OUR PEOPLE<br />
Captain Jean-Patrick Fay’s<br />
dream has come true<br />
close by during the turnaround. The city<br />
is elegant and a great place to spend<br />
the day – it’s the gateway to so many<br />
amazing places.<br />
In my spare time, I like to be in<br />
the mountains where I can practise<br />
climbing and skiing. I met my wife while<br />
I was learning to fl y, and we are lucky to<br />
have two wonderful boys that keep me<br />
on my toes. My family has always been<br />
very supportive of me.<br />
easyJet is a dynamic airline that is<br />
constantly expanding its network. I<br />
always try to progress in my career and<br />
seek new learning experiences, so – as<br />
long as the company will provide me<br />
with opportunities and development<br />
– I see myself working here for a long<br />
time. I feel very lucky to have realised<br />
my childhood dream.<br />
TRAVELLER | 183
CUSTOMER | CARE<br />
Great<br />
customer<br />
service<br />
We want you to have a superb<br />
experience onboard<br />
It’s important for us to know which of our<br />
pilots and cabin crew really shine – so we<br />
have created The easyJet Spirit Awards,<br />
to reward our people for the great service<br />
you receive.<br />
Please visit spirit.easyJet.com to let us<br />
know which of our crew has the “orange<br />
spirit”. We value your help! You’ll fi nd<br />
further details of how to get in touch with<br />
us in the yellow box below.<br />
We Need Your Help!<br />
Think any of our people have the<br />
orange spirit? Then let us know!<br />
★ Find out the name of the cabin crew<br />
member or pilot.<br />
★ Log on to spirit.easyJet.com and vote<br />
for them, giving your fl ight details, name,<br />
and email address. It’s as simple as that!<br />
Say “THANK YOU” and share the<br />
orange spirit!<br />
Wir brauchen Ihre Hilfe!<br />
Wer von uns hat den besten<br />
“Orange Spirit”?<br />
★ Der “Spirit Award” ist eine interne<br />
Auszeichnung, um denjenigen Kollegen<br />
How to Contact Us easyJet.custhelp.com<br />
Our customer<br />
services team<br />
is available to help<br />
you. They are open<br />
8am–8pm everyday<br />
(local times).*<br />
0843 104 5000<br />
184 | TRAVELLER<br />
0820 420 315<br />
199 201 840<br />
902 599 900<br />
01805 666 000<br />
0848 282 828<br />
0900 040 1048<br />
703 103 988<br />
easyJet Star<br />
Of The Month<br />
CHRISTIAN SOMERVILLE, cabin crew<br />
line trainer from Bristol, was one<br />
of our top performers in 2011. He<br />
says: “The easyJet Spirit Awards<br />
are an opportunity to recognise<br />
our fantastic crew, and it was a<br />
massive honour to attend the<br />
awards this year. easyJet is like a<br />
big family, so it was great to share<br />
pride with easyJet people from all<br />
over Europe.” If you think any of<br />
the crew on your fl ight today has<br />
showed their orange spirit, please<br />
let us know via spirit.easyJet.com<br />
oder Kollegin zu nominieren, der den<br />
besten Kundenservice leistet.<br />
★ Bitte helfen Sie uns, dieses Mitglied der<br />
Kabinenbesatzung bzw. diesen Piloten<br />
ausfi ndig zu machen, der diese Kriterien<br />
am besten erfüllt. Bitte besuchen Sie<br />
folgende Website: spirit.easyJet.com<br />
Vielen Dank, dass Sie Ihren “Orange<br />
Spirit” mit uns teilen.<br />
Nous avons besoin de vous!<br />
Qui a l'Orange Spirit?<br />
★ Les Spirit Awards est notre façon<br />
de reconnaître l'équipage de cabine<br />
et les pilotes qui offrent le meilleur<br />
service client.<br />
★ S'il vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à nous<br />
aider en visitant « spirit.easyJet.com » et<br />
nous communiquer le nom des personnes<br />
méritant une reconnaissance particulière.<br />
Merci de partager l'Orange Spirit!<br />
Abbiamo Bisogno del tuo aiuto!<br />
Chi ha lo Spirito Arancione?<br />
0820 320 950<br />
812 200 8999<br />
0601 90199<br />
458 988 1032<br />
9723 763 0561<br />
Rest of the world<br />
+44 843 104 5454<br />
* Please refer to<br />
easyJet.com for call<br />
charges. Calls <strong>may</strong> be<br />
recorded to improve<br />
your experience<br />
when travelling with<br />
or contacting us.<br />
★ La Spirit Awards è il nostro modo di<br />
riconoscere il personale di cabina ed i<br />
piloti che offrono il miglior servizio ai<br />
nostril clienti.<br />
★ Vi preghiamo di aiutarci visitando<br />
il sito spirit.easyJet.com e dirci chi<br />
dei nostri equipaggi si merita un<br />
riconoscimento speciale.<br />
Grazie per aver condiviso lo Spirito<br />
Arancione!<br />
Necesitamos tu ayuda!<br />
Quien tiene el espiritu Naranja?<br />
★ Los premios “Spirit Awards”<br />
son nuestra forma de reconocer a aquellos<br />
de nuestros tripulantes de cabina y<br />
pilotos que ofrecen la mejor atencion<br />
al cliente.<br />
★ Ayudenos por favor visitando<br />
spirit.easyJet.com y diciendonos que<br />
individuos cree usted que merecen un<br />
reconocimiento especial.<br />
Gracias por compartir con nosotros el<br />
espiritu naranja!<br />
In case of emergency while you are abroad, you can use one common number all over the EU free of charge: 112.<br />
This enables you to reach all emergency services (fi re, police, medical) in the 27 countries of the EU.<br />
Follow us on Twitter<br />
@easyJetCare<br />
to receive information<br />
on how to make your<br />
travel experience better.
Safety Onboard<br />
Whilst on board this fl ight we would ask that<br />
you consider your fellow passengers and<br />
also pay attention to the information below.<br />
Our cabin crew will be happy to answer<br />
any questions that you <strong>may</strong> have. Please<br />
remember that they are on board primarily for<br />
your safety but also for your comfort.<br />
★ Smoking<br />
Smoking on any easyJet fl ight is<br />
strictly forbidden, this includes<br />
the use of electronic cigarettes.<br />
★ Alcohol<br />
Alcoholic drinks are available on board as<br />
detailed in our retail brochure. These are<br />
served at the crew’s discretion to passengers<br />
of legal drinking age. While on board, you are<br />
only permitted to consume alcoholic drinks<br />
purchased from the easyJet Bistro. It is an<br />
off ence under Section 19 of the Air Navigation<br />
Order 2010 (Prohibited Behaviour) to be<br />
drunk on board an aircraft. The cabin crew<br />
reserve the right to stop serving alcohol to<br />
any passenger who is or appears to be drunk.<br />
Duty-free alcohol can be purchased from<br />
the easyJet Boutique (subject to route) but<br />
cannot be consumed on board.<br />
★ Your conduct on board<br />
In accordance with UK and International law,<br />
the Captain is in command of the aircraft and<br />
every person on board shall obey his or her<br />
lawful commands. Captains have the authority<br />
to take any actions they deem necessary<br />
to manage passengers who are disruptive<br />
or cause problems during fl ights, under the<br />
Prohibited Behaviour regulations quoted<br />
above. Our primary concern is for the safety<br />
or our passengers and crew. We have a<br />
zero-tolerance policy with regard to<br />
passengers who are verbally or physically<br />
disruptive towards any other person on board<br />
the aircraft. Crew are trained to deal with any<br />
such situations and will always put the safety<br />
of the aircraft, crew and other passengers fi rst.<br />
★ Safety equipment<br />
It is an off ence to tamper with or remove<br />
any safety equipment on board this aircraft,<br />
including the life jackets. Any such actions<br />
<strong>may</strong> jeopardise the safety of other passengers<br />
and lead to prosecution. As explained in the<br />
safety announcement, life cots for babies and<br />
life jackets for infants will be provided in the<br />
event of a landing on water.<br />
★ Safe stowage of your hand baggage<br />
Please ensure that your cabin baggage<br />
remains safely stowed for take-off and landing<br />
and at any time as instructed by the crew.<br />
Place small bags under the seat in front of you<br />
(unless you are seated in an emergency exit<br />
row); larger items must go in the overhead<br />
lockers. Place your bag securely in the locker<br />
and take care when opening lockers, as falling<br />
items <strong>may</strong> injure fellow passengers.<br />
★ Sharps boxes<br />
Hypodermic needles are<br />
permitted on board for medical<br />
use and should always be<br />
PASSENGER | INFO<br />
disposed of in a sharps box. If you need to<br />
dispose of a needle, or other sharp item,<br />
please contact a member of the cabin crew.<br />
★ Electronic devices<br />
In accordance with Civil Aviation Authority<br />
safety regulations, the use of devices for<br />
messaging, calls or internet access must<br />
remain switched off once the aircraft doors<br />
are closed.<br />
Some devices can be used during the fl ight<br />
(but not during take-off and landing), these<br />
include:<br />
★ Bluetooth devices, excluding telephones.<br />
★ Devices (including PDAs and smart phones)<br />
that have a fl ight-safe mode, provided this is<br />
enabled before the aircraft doors are closed.<br />
The device must then be switched off for<br />
take-off and again for landing.<br />
★ Laptops and tablet PCs including those with<br />
built-in WLAN/Wi-Fi, provided the WLAN/Wi-Fi<br />
is switched off prior to the doors being closed.<br />
★ Electronic games, ebooks, MP3, DVD and<br />
CD players, provided that any WLAN/Wi-Fi is<br />
switched off prior to the doors being closed.<br />
If in doubt, please keep devices switched off for<br />
the duration of the fl ight as they <strong>may</strong> interfere<br />
with our systems.<br />
Our Fleet Our Awards<br />
Hypodermic<br />
syringes<br />
Our aircraft are among the youngest in the world, with an average age of 4.1 years!<br />
AIRBUS A319 AIRBUS A320<br />
SEATING CAPACITY 156 180<br />
NUMBER OF CREW 2 pilots & 4 cabin crew 2 pilots & 4 cabin crew<br />
TAKE-OFF SPEED 240 km/h 240 km/h<br />
CRUISING SPEED 805 km/h 837 km/h<br />
RANGE 4,830km 4,910km<br />
NO. OF AIRCRAFT 162 48<br />
★ Best Low-Cost Airline,<br />
Business Traveller Magazine<br />
★ Best Low-Cost Airline in<br />
Europe for customer Product<br />
and Service Quality at the<br />
2011 World Airline Awards.<br />
★ Europe’s Leading Low-Cost<br />
Airline at the 2011 World<br />
Travel Awards, for the third<br />
consecutive year.<br />
TRAVELLER | 185
NOTICIAS | ESPAÑA<br />
easyJet Spirits<br />
Award: ¡Los<br />
premios más<br />
esperados del año!<br />
En easyJet nos encanta<br />
el mundo de la farándula<br />
y qué mejor que unos<br />
oscars al estilo naranja para<br />
codearnos con la jet set de la<br />
empresa. La gala se celebró<br />
en Eurodisney al más puro<br />
estilo hollywoodiense y los<br />
encargados de entregar los<br />
premios fueron la creme<br />
de la creme de la aerolínea<br />
encabezada por la Dir. General<br />
Carolyn McCall, el pasado 2 de<br />
febrero.<br />
En esta ocasión uno de<br />
los afortunados que se hizo<br />
con un “Spirit Award” fue<br />
Pedro Sánchez, nuestro cabin<br />
crew más jaenés, nombrado<br />
tripulante del año. ¡Cómo se<br />
nota que lleva la gracia en la<br />
sangre!.<br />
Dedicación, profesionalidad,<br />
esfuerzo e ilusión: los “Spirit<br />
Awards” reconocen a los<br />
mejores empleados de la<br />
compañía tras una votación<br />
entre sus 7.300 empleados y<br />
también entre los más de 54<br />
millones de pasajeros que, a<br />
lo largo del 2011, han viajado<br />
con la compañía. ¡Felicidades<br />
Pedro! ¡y mil gracias a<br />
vosotros!<br />
186 | TRAVELLER<br />
Gran Bretaña;<br />
infl uencias de todo<br />
el mundo fusionadas<br />
con la tradición<br />
británica.<br />
Gran Bretaña es una fi esta<br />
multicultural, hogar del fantástico<br />
Festival de las artes de Edimburgo,<br />
el festival del pop de Glastonbury,<br />
la Royal Shakespeare Company<br />
y mucho más. Aquí encontrarás<br />
algunos de los mejores museos del<br />
mundo, el distrito teatral londinense<br />
de West End e innumerables<br />
escenarios musicales que van desde<br />
estadios hasta íntimos clubs de<br />
cabaret.<br />
Todos sus rincones ocultan<br />
pedacitos de historia: altísimas<br />
catedrales, ruinas al aire libre y<br />
majestuosas casas. Descubre los<br />
misterios de Stonehenge, sigue los<br />
pasos de los poetas en el Distrito<br />
de los Lagos, descubre el lugar de<br />
nacimiento de Shakespeare en<br />
Stratford y siente la historia viva de la<br />
catedral de York o escuchar resonar<br />
las campanadas del Big Ben.<br />
Además, Gran Bretaña tiene más<br />
Rock and roll por metro cuadrado<br />
que ningún otro lugar del mundo ya<br />
que es uno de los principales centros<br />
de referencia de música del mundo.<br />
Copenhague, la ciudad de verde por<br />
excelencia 26,99 €<br />
¿Te gustaría visitar una de las ciudades<br />
más antiguas de Europa? Copenhague<br />
es mucho más que una ciudad, es<br />
historia, es sostenibilidad, es color… Es<br />
una ciudad donde reina la naturaleza<br />
y todos se rinden a sus pies. Edifi cios<br />
con décadas de recorrido en perfecto<br />
estado, el emblemático caso histórico<br />
y las callecitas estrechas, son los que<br />
hacen de Copenhague una ciudad única.<br />
El Puerto Nuevo, es la calle más<br />
bella de la ciudad. ¿Quién no ha visto<br />
alguna vez la típica fotografía en donde<br />
se refl ejan una línea casas de colorines<br />
y unas terracitas que se reparten a<br />
ambos lados del canal? Nyhayn, que es<br />
Desde Adele a Beatles y a Led<br />
Zeppelin, desde Land’s End a John<br />
O’Groats. La música es el corazón y<br />
el alma de UK.<br />
La moda también es otra de sus<br />
características. Posee un estilo único<br />
y ofrece tiendas tanto de diseño de<br />
alta costura, estrafalarias tiendas de<br />
artículos típicos, así como gangas.<br />
En Londres encontrarás boutiques<br />
de diseño, la tienda de zapatos más<br />
grande del mundo en Selfridges<br />
y mercados donde se vende<br />
absolutamente de todo. Y como<br />
no, Escocia, donde podrás hacerte<br />
con una falda típica, kilt, y comprar<br />
buen whisky directamente en las<br />
destilerías.<br />
Descubre más sobre Gran Bretaña<br />
en www.visitbritain.es.<br />
su nombre en danés, fue en su tiempo<br />
el epicentro de la zona pesquera de<br />
alrededores. Esta ciudad desprende luz<br />
por todas partes y Tivoli es un ejemplo<br />
de ello. Es el parque de atracciones<br />
más antiguo del mundo donde podéis<br />
disfrutar de espectáculos grandiosos,<br />
especialmente los de luces y sonidos<br />
que ofrecen a última hora.<br />
Y como no, ¿quién no conoce la<br />
famosa sirenita de Hans Christian<br />
Andersen? Es la estatua más<br />
fotografi ada del mundo y sin duda<br />
alguna el símbolo más identifi cativo de<br />
la ciudad. ¡te está esperando! ¡Y solo<br />
por 26,99€ por trayecto!
Una vacanza<br />
ideale. Anzi,<br />
quattro.<br />
Non sappiamo che tempo hai<br />
trovato oggi, ma è molto probabile<br />
che ci sia già aria d’estate. Stai già<br />
pensando alle vacanze? Anche noi,<br />
alle tue ovviamente. E vogliamo<br />
darti tutto quello che cerchi.<br />
Come passare ogni giorno su una<br />
spiaggia diversa e festeggiare la sera<br />
bevendo ouzo e ballando sirtaki.<br />
Per non parlare dei tuffi nel mare<br />
cristallino delle isole greche. Lo stai<br />
già immaginando? Vogliamo fartici<br />
volare già con la fantasia.<br />
Corfù, la famosa (voli da Milano<br />
Malpensa e Roma Fiumicino): è il<br />
buen retiro della famiglia reale greca<br />
e in passato ha ospitato persino<br />
Sissi, l’imperatrice d’Austria. Oggi<br />
puoi visitare la sua residenza, Villa<br />
Achilleion, e il suo vasto e rigoglioso<br />
giardino che arriva fi no al mare. A<br />
Corfù sono di casa molte celebrities<br />
e famosa è anche Paleokastritsa,<br />
la spiaggia dove approdò niente di<br />
meno che Ulisse. Attenzione a non<br />
dimenticare a casa la macchina<br />
fotografi ca.<br />
Santorini, la leggendaria (voli<br />
da Milano Malpensa e Roma<br />
Fiumicino): si dice che sia lei la<br />
mitica Atlantide, ma secondo noi<br />
è anche il Paese delle Meraviglie.<br />
Qui puoi trovare spiagge di tutti i<br />
colori (dalla Red alla White Beach),<br />
perfi no nere, di origine vulcanica.<br />
A proposito: ti consigliamo<br />
l’escursione del vulcano, meglio se<br />
di mattina presto, e un tuff o nelle<br />
A Nizza, per piacere o per lavoro.<br />
Un concerto dei Coldplay (il 22<br />
maggio), uno degli Scorpions (il 26)<br />
e il Festival Internazionale del Tango<br />
(dal 17 al 20). I pretesti per visitare<br />
Nizza non mancano, soprattutto in<br />
questo mese. Per chi invece deve venirci<br />
per lavoro, lavoriamo per rendere<br />
qualsiasi viaggio un piacere. Abbiamo<br />
sorgenti d’acqua sulfurea. Ne uscirai<br />
con una pelle nuova e liscissima. E<br />
questa non è solo una leggenda.<br />
Kos, la selvaggia (voli da Milano<br />
Malpensa): il suo simbolo è l’ibisco,<br />
che fi orisce in tutta l’isola. Ma a<br />
Kos ci sono anche foreste di pini e<br />
cipressi. L’albero più importante di<br />
tutti, comunque, è un platano storico:<br />
quello sotto il quale Ippocrate, padre<br />
della medicina, insegnava ai suoi<br />
allievi. Quest’isola piace molto ai<br />
fenicotteri, alle tartarughe di mare<br />
e alle foche monache. E anche agli<br />
esseri umani, naturalmente.<br />
Mykonos, la nottambula (voli<br />
da Milano Malpensa e Roma<br />
Fiumicino): se la tua idea di vacanza<br />
è solo ed esclusivamente relax, passa<br />
direttamente a un’altra delle mete<br />
che ti proponiamo in questa pagina.<br />
Perché la vera anima di Mykonos,<br />
quella che si accende soprattutto di<br />
sera, è fatta di feste e movida. Puoi<br />
partire dalla spiaggia di Paradise e poi<br />
spostarti verso il Cavo Paradiso o gli<br />
altri club lì attorno. Sarà comunque<br />
facile sentirti al settimo cielo.<br />
da poco aperto una nuova base proprio<br />
qui, a Nizza, e ogni settimana mettiamo<br />
a disposizione 3 voli da Napoli e<br />
Venezia e 7 da Roma per farti partire<br />
e soprattutto tornare in giornata.<br />
Perché siamo sinceri: la miglior<br />
compagnia è quella che ti aspetta<br />
a casa.<br />
How is your<br />
English?<br />
NOTIZIE | ITALIA<br />
Se hai voglia di ripassare un<br />
po’ l’inglese, abbiamo un<br />
metodo che scommettiamo ti<br />
piacerà: consiste nel viaggiare<br />
e fare conversation. A Londra<br />
non avrai di certo problemi<br />
a fare nuove conoscenze,<br />
soprattutto ora che<br />
l’atmosfera si sta scaldando<br />
in vista dei Giochi Olimpici<br />
e Paralimpici di agosto. A<br />
proposito, probabilmente in<br />
giro troverai già un sacco di<br />
gadget a tema. Perché non<br />
portartene qualcuno a casa<br />
come souvenir? D’altronde<br />
non si tratta di un evento<br />
che capita tutti i giorni. Ma<br />
non di solo sport vivono gli<br />
inglesi. Nel loro sangue, infatti,<br />
scorre musica. E se parliamo<br />
di musica, non possiamo<br />
non parlare di Liverpool, la<br />
culla artistica dei Beatles.<br />
Riascoltare le loro canzoni<br />
può essere un altro ottimo<br />
modo per allenare your British<br />
accent. Se vuoi davvero<br />
mettere alla prova la tua<br />
comprehension, invece, puoi<br />
assistere a uno spettacolo<br />
dello Unity Theatre. E se non<br />
sai l’inglese, pazienza. Niente<br />
ti vieta di regalarti comunque<br />
un weekend a Bristol. Tanto<br />
la bellezza del suo acquario<br />
e delle opere di Banksy che<br />
trovi sui muri della città può<br />
essere compresa da tutti.<br />
Soprattutto, non servono<br />
parole per commentarla.<br />
Inizia il tuo viaggio verso<br />
la Gran Bretagna, vola su<br />
easyJet.com.<br />
TRAVELLER | 187
DERNIÈRES INFOS/NEUIGKEITEN | SUISSE/SCHWEIZ<br />
Vacances sous<br />
le soleil<br />
portugais<br />
Que ce soit pour des vacances à la<br />
plage, une escapade citadine ou une<br />
découverte culturelle, le Portugal<br />
off rira des vacances pour tous les<br />
goûts.<br />
La ville de Porto vous surprendra<br />
avec ses petites ruelles et ses<br />
grandes caves à vin dans la Vila<br />
Nova de Gaia où vous pourrez<br />
déguster le fameux apéritif Porto. Et<br />
les alentours feront le bonheur des<br />
amateurs de plages à Mindelo et<br />
Espinho.<br />
Une autre ville à ne pas rater<br />
est Lisbonne. Un grand choix de<br />
musées, églises et parcs permet<br />
aux visiteurs de découvrir l‘histoire<br />
de la ville. Une excursion journalière<br />
vers Sintra ou vers le point le plus<br />
Ein Sommer in<br />
Portugal<br />
Ob Strandurlaub, Städtereise oder<br />
Kultururlaub, Portugal bietet eine<br />
gelungene Auszeit vom Alltag.<br />
Lass dich von der Hafenstadt<br />
Porto verzaubern und genieße<br />
den berühmten Portwein in den<br />
Weinkellern der Vila Nova de Gaia!<br />
Auch die Umgebung Portos ist<br />
einen Besuch wert. Wasserratten<br />
können sich am Strand von Mindelo<br />
bei Vila do Conde, 32 km nördlich<br />
von Porto gelegen, sowie an den<br />
Stränden von Espinho austoben und<br />
der Wallfahrtsort Braga lockt mit<br />
beeindruckenden Barockbauten.<br />
Weiter südlich an der<br />
Atlantikküste liegt Lissabon.<br />
Portugals Hauptstadt versprüht<br />
einen ganz besonderen Charme.<br />
Eine große Auswahl an Parks,<br />
Kirchen und Museen sorgt für<br />
188 | TRAVELLER<br />
occidental d‘Europe à Cabo da Roca<br />
est également recommandée.<br />
Plus au sud se trouve la ville de<br />
Faro dans l‘Algarve. Cette région<br />
est particulièrement appréciée à<br />
cause de ses 3000 heures de soleil<br />
annuelles et plus de 150 km de<br />
côtes. Envolez-vous au départ de<br />
Genève plusieurs fois par jour vers<br />
Porto, Lisbonne ou Faro à partir de<br />
42,45 CHF*.<br />
Abwechslung und ereignisreiche<br />
Tage. Ein Abstecher zum<br />
westlichsten Punkt Europas<br />
bei Cabo da Roca ist ebenfalls<br />
lohnenswert und die Stadt Sintra ist<br />
perfekt für einen Tagesausfl ug.<br />
Seit April geht es neu ab Basel-<br />
Freiburg auch nach Faro. Die<br />
malerische Stadt an der Algarve<br />
überzeugt durch ihre urige Altstadt<br />
und beeindruckende Stadtmauer.<br />
Ab Basel-Freiburg fl iegen wir dich<br />
bis zu viermal in der Woche nach<br />
Lissabon, achtmal wöchentlich nach<br />
Porto und dreimal in der Woche nach<br />
Faro ab 42,45 CHF*.<br />
*One-Way, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge.<br />
*Tarif aller simple TTC. Des frais variables s’appliquent pour les bagages en soute. Certains moyens de paiement occasionnent des frais fi xes supplémentaires.<br />
Escapade à Tel Aviv<br />
Vous ne pouvez pas choisir entre vacances<br />
de plage et escapade en ville ? Combinez<br />
les deux en vous rendant à Tel Aviv. Faites un<br />
tour sur les divers marchés qui<br />
permettent d’interagir avec les habitants<br />
et de découvrir trésors et antiquités.<br />
A ne pas manquer est la Ville Blanche.<br />
Il s‘agit d‘un quartier de style Bauhaus,<br />
classé au patrimoine mondial de l‘UNESCO.<br />
Pour se reposer de la vie animée d‘une<br />
grande ville, une promenade au bord de<br />
la mer est parfaite. 13 km de plages vous<br />
attendent.<br />
Découvrez cette ville variée et pleine<br />
d‘énergie. Nous off rons jusqu‘à 4 vols par<br />
semaine au départ de Genève vers Tel Aviv à<br />
partir de 46,45 CHF*.<br />
You Tube<br />
Le saviez-vous ? easyJet Suisse est<br />
désormais sur YouTube!<br />
Venez découvrir ou redécouvrir nos<br />
spots publicitaires, nos vidéos et nos<br />
campagnes. Nous vous réservons bien des<br />
surprises! Rendez-vous vite sur YouTube.<br />
com/user/easyJetEnSuisse.<br />
Abwechslung an der<br />
Küste Israels<br />
Wer sich zwischen Strand- und Stadturlaub<br />
nicht entscheiden kann, ist in Tel Aviv genau<br />
richtig. Diverse Märkte ermöglichen es den<br />
Besuchern sich unter das Volk zu mischen<br />
und die Strandpromenade, die den 13 km<br />
langen Strand säumt, lädt zum Flanieren ein.<br />
Ein Highlight ist die Weiße Stadt,<br />
die sich durch den Bauhausstil von<br />
den anderen Stadtvierteln abhebt und<br />
im Jahr 2003 von der UNESCO zum<br />
Weltkulturerbe erklärt wurde.<br />
In der zweitgrößten Stadt Israels fehlt<br />
es natürlich nicht an Bars und Nachtclubs!<br />
Nachtschwärmer kommen insbesondere<br />
im alten Hafen auf ihre Kosten.<br />
Ob Kulturbegeisterter, Sonnenanbeter<br />
oder Partylöwe, wir fl iegen dich ab Basel-<br />
Freiburg bis zu viermal in der Woche nach<br />
Tel Aviv bereits ab 48,45 CHF*.<br />
YouTube<br />
Schon gewusst? easyJet Schweiz hat jetzt<br />
auch einen YouTube-Kanal. Endlich kannst<br />
du dir die älteren und neuen Werbespots,<br />
unsere tollen Sketche der Komikerin<br />
Marie-Thérèse Porchet und unseren Film<br />
vom Überraschungsfl ug anschauen.<br />
Überzeuge dich selbst! Wir freuen uns<br />
über Kommentare und neue Abonnenten!<br />
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
Süßes<br />
Sommerleben<br />
im Süden<br />
Im Sommer verwandeln sich<br />
Südeuropas Städte: Sonnige<br />
Tage und milde Nächte sorgen<br />
für ein buntes Treiben und heitere<br />
Gelassenheit auf Plätzen, in<br />
Straßencafés und Altstadtgassen.<br />
Voll Temperament und Leidenschaft<br />
diskutiert, lacht und tanzt man<br />
bis in die frühen Morgenstunden,<br />
wenn sich erste Düfte von<br />
frischgebackenen Croissants und<br />
Kaff ee mit der klaren Morgenluft<br />
mischen. Ob du lieber in Italiens<br />
Hauptstadt Rom auf dem Campo<br />
de’ Fiori das süße Leben und die<br />
römische Nacht genießt oder du in<br />
der toskanischen Studentenstadt<br />
Pisa Lebensfreude und verborgene<br />
Arkaden erkundest, mit uns startest<br />
du in den italienischen Sommer!<br />
Im Nachbarland Frankreich kostest<br />
du das mediterrane Leben in Nizza<br />
an der legendären Côte d’Azur!<br />
Mit ihrer prachtvollen, von Palmen<br />
und Villen gesäumten Uferstraße,<br />
der Promenade des Anglais, und<br />
der italienisch geprägten Altstadt<br />
„Vieux Nice“ verströmt Nizza<br />
einen ganz besonderen Charme.<br />
Provenzalische Genüsse treff en<br />
auf fangfrische Delikatessen und<br />
Windeltasche und<br />
Babyfl asche<br />
Endlich Urlaub! Damit euer Urlaub<br />
mit der ganzen Familie bereits bei der<br />
Anreise beginnt, und ihr euch hier an<br />
Bord entspannt zurücklehnen könnt,<br />
haben wir für euch alle Infos zum<br />
Reisen mit Kindern auf einer neuen<br />
Familienseite unter easyjet.com/familien<br />
zusammengestellt! Werft doch einfach<br />
mal einen Blick drauf! Wir würden uns<br />
freuen, euch alle bald wieder bei uns an<br />
Bord begrüßen zu dürfen!<br />
die Ursprünglichkeit der Provence<br />
auf Beach-Clubs und den Chic<br />
einer der berühmtesten Küsten der<br />
Welt! Und auch in der spanischen<br />
Metropole Barcelona kombinierst<br />
du nach Lust und Laune Sightseeing<br />
mit anschließendem Chill-out am<br />
Strand! Gut ausgeruht, startest du<br />
mit Tapas in den Altstadtvierteln<br />
Barri Gotic und El Raval oder in der<br />
stylischen Oase des „Cachitos“<br />
nahe der Flaniermeile Rambla in<br />
den Abend, bevor du in Barcelonas<br />
Clubs die Nacht zum Tag machst!<br />
La Dolce Vita, Savoir-vivre oder Viva<br />
la Vida? Genieße den Sommer in<br />
vollen Zügen und buche frühzeitig<br />
deine Sommerfl üge von Berlin und<br />
Dortmund nach Barcelona, von<br />
Berlin und Düsseldorf nach Rom<br />
sowie von Berlin nach Nizza und Pisa<br />
ab 36,49 €* auf easyJet.com!<br />
Schneller mit<br />
Smartphone<br />
Mit unserer kostenlosen easyJet<br />
App geht das Suchen, Buchen und<br />
Verwalten von Flügen jetzt schnell<br />
und bequem von unterwegs. Zudem<br />
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und Aufgabegepäck zu deinen Flügen<br />
hinzufügen, deine Flugbuchung<br />
via Twitter und Facebook teilen<br />
oder per E-Mail versenden und<br />
deine Flugtermine im Kalender<br />
speichern!<br />
NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCHLAND<br />
Open-Air-Sommer<br />
Nordlicht oder Sonne<br />
des Südens? Entscheide<br />
selbst was dich mehr rockt!<br />
Partytechnisch haben es<br />
die beiden Metropolen<br />
Kopenhagen und Lissabon auf<br />
jeden Fall voll drauf:<br />
6.-15. Juli: Copenhagen Jazz<br />
Festival – 10 Tage an rund 100<br />
Plätzen etwa 1000 Live-Acts,<br />
Kopenhagen<br />
20.-26. August: STRØM setzt<br />
mit elektronischer Musik<br />
vom Feinsten sechs Tage<br />
lang die Stadt unter „Strom“,<br />
Kopenhagen<br />
Wir fl iegen dich ganzjährig<br />
bis zu zweimal täglich<br />
von Berlin in die dänische<br />
Hauptstadt Kopenhagen ab<br />
29,49 €*!<br />
29. Juni: Das EDP CoolJazz<br />
Fest präsentiert Sting im<br />
Park der Poeten, Oeiras bei<br />
Lissabon<br />
13.-15. Juli: Optimus Alive<br />
Festival – cooles Line-up<br />
von The Cure bis Radiohead,<br />
Lissabon<br />
28. Juli bis 4. August: Boom<br />
Festival – „Goa meets Portugal“<br />
gigantisches Vollmond-<br />
Happening am See samt<br />
Boom-Bus-Airport-Shuttle ab<br />
Lissabon, Idanha-a-Nova<br />
Ins portugiesische Lissabon<br />
geht’s mit uns das ganze Jahr<br />
ab Berlin bis zu dreimal in der<br />
Woche ab 71,49 €*!<br />
* Flugpreise: One-Way-Preis pro Person basierend auf 2 Passagieren, die mit der gleichen Buchung reisen, inklusive 11 € Bearbeitungsgebühr und Flughafensteuer, zuzüglich Kreditkartengebühr und variabler Kosten für<br />
Aufgabegepäck. Weitere Informationen auf easyJet.com. Stand: 12. März <strong>2012</strong>. Jetzt buchbar: SXFBCN, SXFFCO, SXFNCE, SXFPSA, SXFLIS, SXFCPH Preise für Reisen zwischen dem 11.05.<strong>2012</strong> und 02.06.<strong>2012</strong>; BERBCN,<br />
BERFCO, BERNCE, BERPSA, BERLIS, BERCPH Preise für Reisen zwischen dem 03.06.<strong>2012</strong> und 27.10.<strong>2012</strong>; DUSFCO, DTMBCN Preise für Reisen zwischen dem 11.05.<strong>2012</strong> und 27.10.<strong>2012</strong>.<br />
TRAVELLER | 189
DERNIERES INFOS | FRANCE<br />
Du nouveau sur<br />
l’enregistrement<br />
en ligne !<br />
L’enregistrement en ligne est<br />
disponible gratuitement pour<br />
les passagers voyageant avec<br />
et sans bagage en soute.<br />
Vous pouvez désormais<br />
vous enregistrer et imprimer<br />
votre carte d’embarquement<br />
au minimum 30 jours avant le<br />
départ de votre vol.<br />
N’hésitez pas à vous<br />
enregistrer en ligne par les<br />
manières suivantes :<br />
■ en choisissant l’option de<br />
l’enregistrement en ligne lors<br />
de la réservation sur www.<br />
easyJet.com<br />
■ en choisissant l’option de<br />
l’enregistrement en ligne<br />
via Mon easyJet – disponible<br />
seulement si vous avez<br />
eff ectué votre réservation via<br />
www.easyJet.com<br />
■ en choisissant l’onglet<br />
« S’enregistrer en ligne » sur<br />
notre page d’accueil www.<br />
easyJet.com, se trouvant en<br />
bas à droite<br />
Nous vous rappelons<br />
qu’il est vivement conseillé<br />
d’arriver à la porte<br />
d’embarquement au moins<br />
40 minutes avant le départ<br />
de votre vol. Anticipez et<br />
passez les portiques de<br />
sécurité dès votre arrivée<br />
pour ne pas rater le départ de<br />
votre vol.<br />
190 | TRAVELLER<br />
Authentique<br />
et festif<br />
VISITEZ GUIMARÃES ET LE NORD<br />
DU PORTUGAL, PATRIMOINE<br />
MONDIAL DE L’UNESCO,<br />
En <strong>2012</strong>, une raison de plus pour<br />
visiter le nord du Portugal. Cette<br />
année, Guimarães avec son centre<br />
historique inscrit au patrimoine<br />
mondial de l’Unesco, est la capitale<br />
européenne de la culture. Découvrez<br />
tout au long de l’année plus de 600<br />
spectacles théâtraux et d’arts de<br />
rue. Découvrez également dans les<br />
environs, Braga, capitale européenne<br />
de la jeunesse et célébrant la<br />
créativité.<br />
Profi tez-en pour visiter les<br />
nombreuses autres parties du<br />
patrimoine mondial situées dans<br />
la région du Nord. Prenez plaisir à<br />
explorer les trésors cachés du centre<br />
historique de Porto, ses rues et ses<br />
maisons typiques.<br />
Du 7 au 10 Juin, Porto accueille le<br />
Primavera Sound, l’un des plus grands<br />
festivals de musique au monde.<br />
A Porto, embarquez pour une<br />
croisière qui vous fera découvrir la<br />
superbe région viticole du Haut-<br />
Douro, et ses profondes vallées,<br />
mères du Vinho do Porto. Visitez les<br />
fermes et dégustez les meilleurs vins<br />
OU TOUT SIMPLEMENT DE<br />
FAIRE PARTAGER VOTRE JOIE ET<br />
EXPÉRIENCE EASYJET ?<br />
N’HÉSITEZ PLUS !<br />
Avec la toute nouvelle fonctionnalité<br />
« Partagez votre voyage » de<br />
l’application easyJet pour mobiles,<br />
permettez à tous vos proches de vivre<br />
votre vol avec vous.<br />
Publiez votre réservation via Facebook,<br />
Twitter et e-mails. Créez « un rappel<br />
d’enregistrement » directement<br />
synchronisé avec votre calendrier sur<br />
mobile.<br />
PARTAGEZ EN TOUTE FACILITÉ !<br />
En publiant votre réservation sur vos<br />
comptes Facebook, Twitter… vous<br />
de la région.<br />
A Vila Nova de Foz Côa, dans<br />
la Région du Nord, retournez aux<br />
origines de l’humanité, il y a 25 000<br />
ans, et pénétrez au cœur de l’art<br />
paléolithique sur un territoire de 17<br />
kilomètres de long.<br />
Tradition, culture, histoire,<br />
architecture, cuisine et vins, paysages,<br />
hospitalité, festivités et joie des<br />
habitants sont les plus beaux atouts<br />
de cette région. Porto et le Nord:<br />
l’essence du Portugal.<br />
Nouveau : Porto au départ de<br />
Toulouse, jusqu’à 3 vols par semaine<br />
à partir de 34€, aller simple et taxes<br />
incluses.<br />
Départs vers Porto depuis Paris<br />
CDG et Lyon également.<br />
Envie de faire des envieux ?<br />
donnez la possibilité à vos proches de<br />
faire la même réservation via le lien de<br />
l’application easyJet également visible.<br />
Profi tez des promotions easyJet<br />
disponibles par vos publications sur les<br />
réseaux sociaux.<br />
Faites profi tez de vos détails de vols à<br />
vos contacts e-mail en leur envoyant<br />
votre réservation grâce à l’application<br />
easyJet.<br />
SYNCHRONISEZ VOTRE VOL !<br />
Créez un rappel qui sera directement<br />
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et qui vous informera de l’ouverture de<br />
votre enregistrement et du départ de<br />
votre vol.<br />
Application disponible en 5 langues<br />
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
Europe’s Best<br />
Festivals<br />
As summer draws closer, so does<br />
another festival season. And while the<br />
UK can undoubtedly off er some of the<br />
season’s best music events, it can’t<br />
always promise balmy climes, clear blue<br />
skies and mud-free fi elds. We’ve taken<br />
a look across Europe and discovered<br />
some fantastic festivals where<br />
(hopefully) no wellies are required.<br />
SONAR – FLY TO BARCELONA,<br />
14-16 JUNE<br />
Few cities in the world can party<br />
like Barcelona and few festivals can<br />
compare to Sonar. Bringing together<br />
DJs, musicians and revellers from<br />
across Europe and beyond, this<br />
cosmopolitan celebration centres<br />
on the city’s Raval district by day,<br />
before heading to the town outskirts<br />
for a selection of night-time soirees.<br />
Confi rmed acts for this year include<br />
Fatboy Slim, Friendly Fires and girl<br />
of the moment Lana Del Rey. And,<br />
once the party is over, you can enjoy<br />
the sights, shops and beaches of this<br />
spectacular seaside city that has it all.<br />
We fl y to Barcelona from Gatwick, Luton,<br />
Stansted, Southend, Bristol, Liverpool,<br />
Newcastle and Belfast International<br />
from £44.99*.<br />
ROSKILDE – FLY TO COPENHAGEN,<br />
5-8 JULY<br />
As it takes a fallow year, those missing<br />
the charms of Glastonbury should<br />
The Jubilee Bank Holiday weekend is<br />
fast approaching and while London<br />
will no doubt be the focal point of<br />
celebrations marking the Queen’s<br />
60-year reign, those looking for<br />
something a little bit diff erent should<br />
head for Gibraltar. Sitting right at<br />
the bottom of Spain, at the entrance<br />
to the Mediterranean and just a<br />
hop, skip and jump from Morocco,<br />
seek salvation within its Scandinavian<br />
counterpart, Roskilde, the largest music<br />
festival in northern Europe. Set up by<br />
hippies in the early 1970s, this<br />
not-for-profi t humanitarian festival<br />
brings some of music’s biggest acts<br />
to the Danish countryside. Headliners<br />
this year include The Cure, Bruce<br />
Springsteen and the E Street Band, and<br />
possibly Iceland’s fi nest export, Björk.<br />
The festival’s campsite is at the very<br />
heart of its experience, covering an<br />
impressive 80 hectares and featuring<br />
separate areas for guests to cook, party<br />
and even store luggage. Those keen to<br />
return to Roskilde can take part in the<br />
Naked Run. This annual race around the<br />
campsite awards the fi rst nude male<br />
and female past the fi nishing post with<br />
tickets for next year’s event.<br />
We fl y to Copenhagen from Gatwick,<br />
Stansted and Manchester from £34.49*.<br />
Gibraltar’s Jubilee Celebrations<br />
this fi ercely patriotic British Overseas<br />
Territory is dappled with sunshine and<br />
sprinkled with pomp and ceremony.<br />
Her Majesty will be honoured<br />
throughout June in a wide range of<br />
celebrations, including street parties,<br />
the lighting of a beacon, an international<br />
regatta and a very special birthday<br />
parade. And, while you’re there,<br />
don’t forget to pay a visit to the<br />
NEWS | UK<br />
STOP MAKING SENSE – FLY TO<br />
SPLIT, 2-6 AUGUST<br />
Set against the backdrop of the stunning<br />
Adriatic coast in the pretty town of Tisno,<br />
Stop Making Sense (pictured) off ers a<br />
fabulous combination of sun, sea and<br />
celebration. Curated by music-loving<br />
promoters, including secretsundaze,<br />
Dalston Superstore and Electric Minds,<br />
and featuring DJ sets from the likes of<br />
Move D, Lil’ Louis and Hannah Holland,<br />
this fi ve-day fi esta is not to be missed.<br />
Promising to be music festival and<br />
summer getaway rolled into one, other<br />
highlights of this unique and intimate<br />
aff air include daily boat parties, a private<br />
beach complete with its own tiki bar and<br />
an after hours, open-air nightclub where<br />
you can dance till the small hours under<br />
the Croatian stars.<br />
We fl y to Split from Gatwick, Stansted<br />
and Bristol from £51.49*.<br />
much-loved Barbary apes. As<br />
the only wild primates in Europe,<br />
Winston Churchill brought new<br />
troops of the critters to The Rock<br />
during World War II after learning of<br />
the famous legend, claiming that if<br />
these monkeys ever leave Gibraltar,<br />
then British Rule will cease!<br />
We fl y to Gibraltar from Gatwick and<br />
Liverpool from £59.49*.<br />
*Prices one way per person based on 2 people travelling on the same booking. Price correct as at 27 March <strong>2012</strong>. For travel from 1 May to 27 October <strong>2012</strong>. Additional credit card & baggage fees apply. See easyJet.com for details<br />
TRAVELLER | 191
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BUY ONBOARD<br />
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Why millions<br />
of business<br />
people fly<br />
with us<br />
(It’s got nothing to do<br />
with free pretzels)<br />
Last year 9.5 million<br />
professionals chose to fl y<br />
easyJet. We don’t do business<br />
class and we don’t do frills like<br />
salty snacks; instead we focus<br />
on making business fl ights<br />
with us about, well, business.<br />
Find out why our fl ights make<br />
business sense.<br />
NEWS | BUSINESS TRAVEL<br />
We’ll change your fl ight if your meeting changes<br />
Our fl exi fares mean you can change your fl ight as many<br />
times as you like within a four week period, and they’re<br />
available from as little as £100.99*, one way. You’ll also get<br />
Speedy Boarding with your Flexi ticket.<br />
We’ll get you there on time<br />
In 2011 84% of our fl ights landed on time, making us one of<br />
the most punctual airlines in Europe. And we fl y business<br />
routes regularly throughout the day, so we’ll have a fl ight<br />
time that suits you.<br />
We’ll fl y you closer to the boardroom table<br />
We fl y more of the top 100 European routes than any<br />
other airline. And we fl y to major airports so you’ll always<br />
land close to your meeting.<br />
Find more reasons to choose business sense at<br />
business.easyJet.com<br />
*For travel within the next 120 days, departing from the UK to any easyJet destination. Flexi ticket allows unlimited date changes in a fi xed 4 week period, subject to<br />
availability, for changes made at least 2 hours before original departure. For full details see business.easyJet.com.<br />
TRAVELLER | 193
LAST WORD | LILLE<br />
194 | TRAVELLER<br />
Baker<br />
Alex Croquet<br />
on Lille<br />
“This is an atmospheric city. The bells<br />
from the Belfry ring every half hour<br />
and have been telling the people of<br />
Lille the time for nearly a century. It<br />
forms part of the gentle rhythm of<br />
this city that I love so much. From Le<br />
Carnot, an unfi nished 17th-century<br />
building that’s now a restaurant, the<br />
views straight across to the Belfry are<br />
astounding. Sit here and you’ll get a<br />
real perspective on Lille’s pace of life.”<br />
Alex Croquet supplies top restaurants throughout<br />
France and Belgium. His new bakery, Alex Croquet, Fou<br />
de Pain, opened in March at 66 Rue Esquermoise, Lille<br />
WORDS NICK HASLAM | PHOTO © LAURENT GHESQUIÈRE
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