november-2010

IT’S
OUR
BIRTHDAY!
NOVEMBER 2010
*YOUR FREE COPY TO
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU
TRAVELLER
PAINTING EUROPE ORANGE

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great car rental deals. For your discounted price,
book at easyJet.com or visit the Europcar desk.

COVER ILLUSTRATIONS © STUART HOLMES | PHOTO © PLAIN PICTURE
15
CONTENTS
TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
HAPPY 15TH
BIRTHDAY!
To celebrate 15 years
of fl ying, we have
great deals for you to
SAVE up to 40% on
selected products in
Boutique & Bistro.
Buy two Breo
watches for £15,
save €15 when you
buy Armani and
Versace fragrances,
celebrate onboard
with a half bottle of
Champagne and
FREE chocolates
for £15 or share a
delicious Double Up
Meal Deal for, you
guessed it, just €15!
See the sights
and take advantage
of our great city
packages on page 6,
saving up to 10% by
buying onboard.
Gulliver, our very
own bear, is dressed
in a limited-edition
15th birthday T-shirt.
Take a photo of him
on his travels for the
chance to win two
FREE fl ights (see
page 29 for details).
The biggest
brands and classic
skincare and
cosmetics are on
pages 12 and 13 –
take advantage of
our great savings.
Celebrate our
15th birthday and
SAVE onboard today!
BUMPER BIRTHDAY STORIES
15 Travel News
All the latest
events and new
openings, plus
a timeline of
our last 15 years
27 Then
and Now
See how much
we’ve changed
since we fi rst took
off in 95
28 Unsung
Heroes
The people who
make your fl ight
run smoothly share
their memories
31 People
Power
Our hardworking
people tell us why
they do what they do
36 Blog off
Four bloggers
take on our 15-hour
travel challenge
38 Made in 95
Five products that
were big in 95
40 The New
Jet Set
Meet the people
who live the
high life – literally
54 Weekenders
Cutting-edge
London and
historic Zagreb
62 Cities of
the Sky
The cities that
turned themselves
around – with a
little help from us
68 Fast Forward
The world in 15
years’ time
72 Rebel City
We reveal
Manchester’s
rebellious side
46
Broader
Horizons
Fifteen seasoned
travellers share
their ultimate
experiences
TRAVELLER
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 3

15
CONTENTS
TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
SHORTS
85 Mary McCartney
shows off 15 years
of photography
91 Shedding a light
on underground
design in Marseille
93 Budapest’s
skating priest
94 Discover the
best steak in the
world – in Asturias
EDITORIAL & ART Editor Steven Watson | Deputy Editor Claire Martin
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis | Sub-Editor Marie Cleland | Staff Writer Deborah Hatch
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating | Fashion Editor Nino Bauti
Destinations Sub-Editor Julie Alpine | Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs | Production Manager Antonia Ferraro
easyJet Brand Livery Executive (General Contact for Magazine) Natalie Yeung | Flight Bookings easyJet.com
ADVERTISING Group Publishing Director Mark Duke | Publisher Phil Castle | Associate Publisher Tara Brady
Advertising Manager Terry Arnold | European Sales Team Betty Encinales, Nishan Gumani, Katja Kunka
Mahmoud Nedjai, Darren Paternoster Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030
INK CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke | Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys
Design Director Jonny Clark | Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal | Publishing Director Simon Leslie
easyJet TRAVELLER is published on behalf of easyJet by Ink Publishing 141–143 Shoreditch High Street,
London, E1 6JE | Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8796, fax: +44 (0)20 7613 6985 | Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613
6954 Email: info@ink-publishing.com | ink-publishing.com | goferslogistics.com
© Ink All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission
of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet,
and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk. Any mention of easyJet or use
of the easyJet logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company, or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.
minus
52%
CO 2
97 Test your
nerve and taste
a gourmet
pig’s trotter
106 Where We
Fly Route map and
destination guides
98
Discover the
real taste of
Budapest
Hungarian
paprika
LAST WORD
180 Passenger info
182 España
183 Italia
184 Suisse/Schweiz
185 Deutschland
186 France
187 UK
188 Eco news
190 No Way!
THIS MAGAZINE
IS PRINTED ON 100%
RECYCLED PAPER
PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY

15
CONTENTS
TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
SHORTS
85 Mary McCartney
shows off 15 years
of photography
91 Shedding a light
on underground
design in Marseille
93 Budapest’s
skating priest
94 Discover the
best steak in the
world – in Asturias
EDITORIAL & ART Editor Steven Watson | Deputy Editor Claire Martin
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis | Sub-Editor Marie Cleland | Staff Writer Deborah Hatch
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating | Fashion Editor Nino Bauti
Destinations Sub-Editor Julie Alpine | Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs | Production Manager Antonia Ferraro
easyJet Brand Livery Executive (General Contact for Magazine) Natalie Yeung | Flight Bookings easyJet.com
ADVERTISING Group Publishing Director Mark Duke | Publisher Phil Castle | Associate Publisher Tara Brady
Advertising Manager Terry Arnold | European Sales Team Betty Encinales, Nishan Gumani, Katja Kunka
Mahmoud Nedjai, Darren Paternoster Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030
INK CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke | Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys
Design Director Jonny Clark | Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal | Publishing Director Simon Leslie
easyJet TRAVELLER is published on behalf of easyJet by Ink Publishing 141–143 Shoreditch High Street,
London, E1 6JE | Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8796, fax: +44 (0)20 7613 6985 | Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613
6954 Email: info@ink-publishing.com | ink-publishing.com | goferslogistics.com
© Ink All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission
of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet,
and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk. Any mention of easyJet or use
of the easyJet logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company, or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.
minus
52%
CO 2
97 Test your
nerve and taste
a gourmet
pig’s trotter
106 Where We
Fly Route map and
destination guides
98
Discover the
real taste of
Budapest
Hungarian
paprika
LAST WORD
180 Passenger info
182 España
183 Italia
184 Suisse/Schweiz
185 Deutschland
186 France
187 UK
188 Eco news
190 No Way!
THIS MAGAZINE
IS PRINTED ON 100%
RECYCLED PAPER
PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY

connecting people... ideas... solutions.
corporate solutions from diners club international®

Welcome to our 15th birthday issue
Bienvenido/Bienvenue/Benvenuto/Willkommen
THIS IS A very special month for all of us
at easyJet. On 10 November we celebrate
the 15th anniversary of our airline. It’s
amazing to think just how far we have
come since that fi rst fl ight from Luton to
Glasgow in 1995. We started with one plane
and a small but enthusiastic team. Today
we have a fl eet of 190 aircraft and employ
over 6,000 people across the UK, France,
Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Spain.
When Stelios founded easyJet, low
fares were a revolutionary concept. easyJet
changed the airline industry forever. Initially,
we introduced inexpensive fl ights to the
UK but with the help of our people and
our customers, we have grown to become
Europe’s leading low fares airline. Today
we fl y 50 million passengers a year across
540 routes and 29 countries in one of the
world’s newest fl eets. The average age of
our planes is three-and-a-half years young.
As you know, we are proud to provide
the lowest fares to the most convenient
airports, while giving a warm and friendly
service. You tell us you like our service and
transparent pricing as it lets you see exactly
what a fl ight will cost. For our part, we hope
to exceed your expectations. We come from
the standpoint that low fares should not
mean a compromise on customer service.
Going forward, our aim is to further
enhance the easyJet experience so that
fl ying is easier – from the moment you
get to the airport, to the journey itself and
arriving at your destination. We want to
constantly improve what we do and you
can help us by giving me your ideas on how
we can do things better. Please email me
personally at carolyn@easyJet.com.
My thanks to all of you who have
supported us over the last 15 years. We
look forward to serving you over the next
15 and, with your help, continuing to “Paint
Europe Orange”!
Este mes es muy especial para easyJet,
puesto que el 10 de noviembre de 2010
celebraremos el 15º aniversario de nuestra
aerolínea. Impresiona ver hasta dónde hemos llegado
desde nuestro primer vuelo de Luton a Glasgow en 1995.
Comenzamos con un avión y ahora disponemos de 190
aviones y empleamos más de 6.000 personas.
Cuando Stelios fundo easyJet, fue una gran
innovación, ya que cambió la manera de ver los viajes
cortos. Creamos el concepto de los vuelos de bajo
coste al Reino Unido y, con la colaboración de todos los
empleados de easyJet y, naturalmente, de vosotros,
nuestros clientes, hemos crecido hasta convertirnos
en una aerolínea europea que transporta a más de 50
millones de pasajeros al año por más de 540 rutas en
29 países diferentes.
Mirando al futuro, somos conscientes de que nuestro
servicio jugará un papel incluso más importante. Con la
fi rme intención de continuar mejorando la experiencia
de volar con easyJet, siempre agradeceremos vuestra
opinión para ayudarnos a mejorar. Podéis enviarme un
mensaje de correo electrónico a carolyn@easyJet.com.
Muchas gracias a todos por vuestro apoyo durante
los últimos 15 años. Esperamos volver a daros la
bienvenida a bordo y que nos continuéis ayudando a
“teñir Europa de naranja”.
Questo è un mese veramente speciale per tutti
noi di easyJet. Il 10 novembre 2010,
infatti, la compagnia compie 15 anni! È
meraviglioso pensare a quanta strada abbiamo percorso
da quel primo volo da Luton a Glasgow nel 1995.
Quando Stelios inventò easyJet, ci fu una rivoluzione
nel modo di viaggiare delle persone. Abbiamo
inizialmente introdotto il concetto di voli low cost nel
Regno Unito e poi, con l’aiuto di tutti coloro che lavorano
in easyJet, ma soprattutto grazie a voi passeggeri, siamo
cresciuti costantemente fi no a diventare la compagnia
low-fares leader in Europa. Attualmente trasportiamo
quasi 50 milioni di passeggeri ogni anno, e offriamo 540
collegamenti in 29 paesi diversi.
I nostri 15 anni di attività segnano un traguardo,
ma anche un nuovo punto di inizio. L’obiettivo di
easyJet è infatti quello di acquisire ancora più
esperienza, dimostrandosi sempre più aperta
nei confronti delle esigenze e delle opinioni dei
passeggeri. Potete inviarci i vostri commenti
all’indirizzo e-mail carolyn@easyJet.com.
Ringraziamo tutti coloro che in 15 anni non hanno
mai smesso di credere in noi, e ci auguriamo di vedervi
numerosi a bordo dei nostri aerei per continuare, con il
vostro aiuto, a “dipingere l’Europa di arancione”!
Ce mois-ci est un mois très spécial pour nous
tous chez easyJet. Le 10 novembre 2010,
nous célébrons notre 15ème anniversaire.
Quel chemin parcouru depuis le premier vol entre
GREETINGS | ENJOY THE FLIGHT
WE ARE
15
Londres Luton et Glasgow en 1995 !
La création d’easyJet par Stelios fut une réelle
innovation, qui bouleversa les habitudes des voyageurs
en Europe. Depuis l’introduction du concept de vols
à bas prix au Royaume-Uni, nous avons transformé
easyJet en une compagnie aérienne à réelle vocation
Européenne. Avec l’aide du personnel easyJet, mais
bien entendu grâce à vous tous, nos clients, nous
transportons aujourd’hui près de 50 millions de
passagers par an, sur nos 540 routes à travers 29 pays.
Ces 15 prochaines années, nous nous attacherons
à améliorer davantage l’expérience easyJet. Et c’est
toujours avec beaucoup de plaisir que nous recevrons
vos suggestions. Vous pouvez me contacter à
carolyn@easyJet.com.
Merci beaucoup de nous avoir apporté votre
soutien ces 15 dernières années. Nous sommes
impatients de vous revoir à bord et avec votre aide,
continuer à « peindre l’Europe en orange ».
Dies ist ein ganz besonderer Monat für uns alle
hier bei easyJet. Am 10. November 2010 feiert
unsere Fluggesellschaft ihren 15. Geburtstag.
Es ist ganz unglaublich, wie weit wir seit diesem ersten
Flug von Luton nach Glasgow 1995 gekommen sind.
Als Stelios easyJet gründete, war dies eine echte
Innovation. easyJet veränderte die Art und Weise
der Menschen zu reisen. Zunächst führten wir das
Konzept günstiger Flüge in Großbritannien ein, und
mit der Hilfe aller easyJet-Mitarbeiter und natürlich
von Ihnen, unseren Kunden, sind wir zu einer wahrhaft
europäischen Fluggesellschaft angewachsen, die jährlich
fast 50 Millionen Passagiere auf 540 Strecken in 29
Ländern befördert.
Es ist uns klar, dass beim Schritt in die nächsten
15 Jahre unser Service noch viel wichtiger sein wird.
Es ist unser Ziel, das easyJet-Erlebnis noch weiter zu
verbessern, und wir freuen uns immer, Ihre Meinung
dazu zu hören. Sie können mir eine Mail schicken an
carolyn@easyJet.com.
Vielen herzlichen Dank an diejenigen von Ihnen,
die uns in den letzten 15 Jahren unterstützt haben.
Wir freuen uns darauf, Sie alle an Bord begrüßen zu
dürfen und mit Ihrer Hilfe weiterhin “Europa einen
orangefarbenen Anstrich“ zu geben!
Carolyn McCall OBE | easyJet Chief Executive
If you have any thoughts or suggestions,
email us at carolyn@easyJet.com
For any queries or further information,
visit easyJet.com
Turn to pages 180–188 for the
latest easyJet news, an onboard guide
and to fi nd out how we’re improving
your fl ying experience
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 7

WE’VE
GOT £1,500
WORTH OF
SNOW+ROCK
equipment to give
away to one lucky
reader. To be in
with a chance of
winning the most
stylish kit on the
slopes, just answer
the following
simple question:
WHAT WAS
OUR FIRST EVER
DESTINATION?
A >ZAGREB
B >GLASGOW
C >MARRAKECH
WINTER
WINNER!
To enter, go to
SnowAndRock.com/
Traveller, or send your
answer on a postcard
to Snow+Rock,
2 Thornberry Way,
Guildford, Surrey,
GU1 1QB, Great
Britain. Please mark
your entry “Traveller
competition” and
include your name
and email address so
we can contact you.
GREETINGS | BIRTHDAY ISSUE
WE ARE
15
HAPPY
BIRTHDAY
TO US!
It was the year that Buzz and Woody fi rst hit
our cinema screens in Toy Story. It was the
year that a little-known banker called Nick
Leeson became famous for all the wrong
reasons. And it was the year that a new-fangled
invention called the DVD started to make
your video collection look just a bit shabby.
But more than all that, 1995 was the year
that air travel changed forever when a brandnew
airline took off on its maiden fl ight from
London Luton to Glasgow.
Fifteen years on, and we’re in the mood for
celebrating. We have become the UK’s biggest
airline and a truly pan-European carrier, fl ying
500 routes across Europe, North Africa and
beyond. Business Traveller magazine has
named us Best Low-Fares Airline for 10 years
in a row, and there’s still more to come. We’re
committed to opening even more new routes
to provide you with more convenient travel
options, and we’re leading the industry on
the environmental issues that we know are
important to you.
That’s why you’ll fi nd a lot of 15s in this issue.
There’s a look at the ways we’ve changed
over the last 15 years (page 27), 15 of the best
things to do across our network (page 46), and
our futurology expert’s ideas of how the world
will change in the next 15 years (page 68).
We’re celebrating our birthday and we want
you to join in, so let us know what you think
about the issue – you can reach us on
easyJet.ed@ink-publishing.com.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 9

GREETINGS | BIRTHDAY ISSUE
THE 15 COVER...
UNCOVERED!
We fl y to 29 countries and we’ve managed
to include every one of them on our cover
this month. But can you recognise the
landmarks, traditions or national costume
that represents each one?
1 BULGARIA ST PARASKEVA CHURCH
Anton Tornyov won a competition to build
this church in 1910. WWI stopped work, but
he won again in 1922 and work resumed.
2 PORTUGAL BARCELOS COCKEREL
According to legend, this cockerel saved a
man wrongfully accused of theft in Barcelos.
3 CZECH REPUBLIC PRAGUE
ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK
This clock turns 600 this year and still
entertains with a live show every hour.
4 GERMANY BRANDENBURG GATE
Built in the 18th century, the gate now
symbolises Berlin’s unity.
5 THE NETHERLANDS WINDMILL
The Dutch built their fi rst mills in the 1200s
and there are still 1,000 working today.
6 FRANCE EIFFEL TOWER
Named after its designer Gustave Eiffel, this
324m-high structure was built in 1889.
7 POLAND TRADITIONAL DRESS
The Polish traditional dress varies by region,
but is brightly coloured with embroidery.
8 SLOVENIA LJUBLJANA DRAGON
This symbol of the city (on Dragon Bridge)
can be traced back to Jason & the Argonauts.
9 AUSTRIA LIPIZZANER STALLIONS
See these famous white horses at the Spanish
Riding School in Vienna.
10 TURKEY HAGIA SOPHIA
This 1,500-year-old Istanbul landmark has
been a basilica, mosque and museum.
11 EGYPT THE PYRAMIDS
It took 30,000 workers more than 80 years
to build the Giza pyramids.
12 SWEDEN DALA HORSE
This carved horse from Dalarna is said to be
based on the Norse god Odin’s horse Sleipnir.
10 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
1
2
3
7
8
5
12
4
10
11
13 ESTONIA ALEXANDER
NEVSKY CATHEDRAL
This Tallinn cathedral was built on the
supposed grave of folk hero Kalevipoeg.
14 KOSOVO PALACE OF
YOUTH AND SPORTS
Dominating the façade of the palace is a
poster of Kosovan military hero Adem Jashari.
15 ITALY VENETIAN GONDOLA
In the 18th century there were around
8,000 gondolas in Venice, but today little
more than 400 of them remain.
16 SWITZERLAND SWISS ARMY KNIFE
The Schweizer Offi ziersmesser became
known as the Swiss army knife after WWII.
17 ISRAEL DESIGN MUSEUM HOLON
Designed by Israeli architect Ron Arad, the
striking museum opened earlier this year.
18 CROATIA ARENA ZAGREB
This sports hall in Zagreb is used for
sporting events, concerts and exhibitions.
19 MALTA LUZZU FISHING BOAT
This brightly painted, traditional fi shing boat
is a symbol of the Maltese islands.
20 CYPRUS CYPRIOT FLAG
Cyprus’ fl ag came into being in 1960.
It’s the only fl ag in the world with a map
of a country.
6
9
13
25
24
23
14
26
22
15
28
27
21
20
16
29
17
19
18
21 MOROCCO FEZ
The red dye that gives this hat its colour was
traditionally made from Moroccan berries.
22 UK LONDON BLACK CAB
There are around 20,000 black cabs, or
Hackney Carriages, on London’s streets.
23 FINLAND SAUNA
The Finns have used saunas for 2,000 years.
There’s even one in the parliament building.
24 BELGIUM ATOMIUM
Built in 1958, the Atomium is made of nine
steel spheres – fi ve are open to the public.
25 DENMARK THE LITTLE MERMAID
Perched on a rock in Copenhagen’s harbour,
the Little Mermaid statue is 97 years old.
26 SPAIN TORO DE OSBORNE
This bull, created in 1956 to advertise Osborne
sherry, is the unoffi cial symbol of Spain.
27 HUNGARY HELDENPLATZ
Heroes’ Square in Budapest features statues
of the tribal leaders who founded Hungary.
28 ROMANIA PAINTED EGGS
These beautifully decorated eggs, popular at
Easter, are believed to protect against evil.
29 GREECE THE ACROPOLIS
The Acropolis, or Cecropia, was named after
Cecrops, the mythical fi rst king of Athens.
ILLUSTRATIONS © STUART HOLMES | WORDS DEVINA DIVECHA

ADVERTISING PROMOTION
FINLAND:
THE EDGE
OF EUROPE
From striking natural scenery to
cutting-edge modern technology and
a quirky national character, Finland
really is a one-of-a-kind
FINLAND IS A COUNTRY of contrasts.
From endless daylight in the summer to the
still, wintry darkness of the polar night, the
characteristics of Finland’s seasons have a
profound effect on life in Finland and its
rather peculiar inhabitants.
Not really Scandinavian, nor a part of the
Baltics or Eastern Europe, Finland is the
black sheep of Northern Europe. Famous
for Santa Claus, Nokia and saunas, Finns
actually enjoy sitting in a heated box and,
upon reaching boiling point, running
outside and rolling in the snow. They’re
crazy about sports and heavy metal, yet
they produce some of the fi nest functional
design in the world. Their movies are
virtually devoid of dialogue, as seems to be
the case in real life.
Finns are considered quiet and reserved,
which is partly true. Small talk is certainly
not their strongest asset. But get on closer
terms with a Finn and you’ll fi nd a warm,
sincere and hospitable person underneath
the seemingly cool shell. Finnish people
are hardworking and dutiful, but don’t be
fooled – these people will show you the
meaning of a good time. Prepare for
sarcasm, though, as a Finn might tell you
tall tales without ever cracking a smile.
Although known for their advanced
technology and progressive urban
solutions, most Finns also have a close affi nity
to Mother Nature. With almost 200,000
lakes and half a million summer cottages
in the country, there are lots of hideouts for
relaxation and outdoor activities. Hiking,
Nordic walking and cross-country skiing are
all favourite activities. Some Finns prefer
mountain sports, ice hockey, riding
snowmobiles or rally driving. A few have
even tried Formula 1 racing.
Culturally, Finland is a unique mix of East
and West. The society moves to a western
beat, spicing it with eastern tones. Here, hip
hop and balalaikas, rock ’n’ roll and army
choirs as well as cellos and heavy metal
merge into one funky rhythm. There really
is nowhere quite like Finland.
FINLAND IN NUMBERS
5.4 million people
1.8 million saunas
5.2 million mobile phones
1 Ice Hockey World Championship title
0 Football World Championship
titles (World Cup participation: 0!)
2 women in charge: both the President
and the Prime Minister are female
188,000 lakes
180,000 islands
475,000 summer cottages
1 Eurovision Song Contest win
203,000 reindeer
200,000 salmon
1 Wife-Carrying World Championship
competition
1 Air-Guitar World Championship
competition
35 national parks
8 UNESCO World Heritage Sites
1 Santa Claus – the real one

It’s strange, it’s cool,
it’s wonderful...
Get exposed!

PHOTO © SILVIO DITTRICH | WORDS DEBORAH HATCH
THE BUZZ
NEW
ROUTE
26 NOVEMBER–24 DECEMBER
Super-Size Your Christmas
DRESDEN
You might think
that if you’ve seen
one Christmas
market you’ve seen
them all, but head
to Dresden, our new
route launching on
3 December, and
you’ll see they do
things differently.
The Christmas
market there is
the world’s oldest
(it dates back to
the 1400s) and
according to its
organisers, the
best. Packed with
super-sized advent
attractions and
unusual festivals, it
utterly transforms
the heart of the
beautiful baroque
Old Town every
December.
More than
230 stalls create
a treasure trove
of delicate
glass baubles,
handcrafted
ceramics, lace and
almost-too-prettyto-eat
gingerbread.
For the best views
of it all, climb to the
top of the world’s
biggest Christmas
pyramid – a 13m,
six-tier carousel
with life-sized
carvings of angels
and nativity scenes
that towers above
the world’s largest
nutcracker.
You’re sure to
get a hit of festive
cheer whenever
you visit, but to
really get into
the Christmas
spirit, stop by on 4
December for the
WE ARE
15
Stollen Festival to
see the four-tonne
fruitcake roll into
town. After being
proudly paraded
through the
streets by a busty
“fruitcake maiden”,
it’s promptly cut
up and shared
between the
market crowd. It
doesn’t get much
more Christmassy
than that.
dresden.de
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 15

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
Good Times for Goldfrapp
VARIOUS
“These fi sh do not look
happy,” says Alison
Goldfrapp, of the
inhabitants of the goldfi sh
bowl on her hotel coffee
table. “I think the water is
too murky for them.”
The fi sh do look a
little sluggish. Goldfrapp,
though, currently touring
to promote her latest
album Head First, sounds
like she’s never been
better. “When you’re
feeling good about
things, life feels quite
uncomplicated,” she
smiles. "I suppose being
happy isn’t considered
very cool, is it? Whatever.”
On a big white couch
in a sprawling suite in
London’s Soho Hotel,
Goldfrapp cuts a small
fi gure in her black linen
jumpsuit and studded
leather pumps. She’s
teased some of her
trademark blonde curls
16 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
back from her face and
she’s wearing a pair of
black Ray-Ban shades,
the lenses just about light
enough to allow her to
make eye contact.
After her debut
album Felt Mountain
won critical acclaim
in 2000, Goldfrapp’s
sultry electronica
began to make waves
internationally. But it’s not
just about the music – like
Björk, she has become
famous for outfi ts that
resemble art installations.
She wore a horse’s tail
on stage for a while, and
tells me she has just had
a new dress made for her
“out of used videotape. I
got the idea when I saw
some stuck in a tree. I am
either in a costume or in
jeans and a T-shirt. I don’t
have much in between.”
Press coverage
rarely mentions it, but
Goldfrapp is not a solo
artist. The other 50% of
the band is the elusive
Will Gregory. “Will doesn’t
tour at all, but we write
everything together and
produce it together and
mix it together. It is not a
conventional set-up.”
She and Gregory set
out to create something,
“simple, joyous and
melodic” for Head First,
which is packed with highenergy
tracks with names
like Rocket and Alive, and
contains some of her best
work in years.
“I’m loving performing
at the moment,” she says,
though she wishes she
could push it even further.
"At the beginning of the
year I get told, 'Sorry, no,
you can’t have a revolving
stage, and lasers, and
be shot out of a cannon.
It costs too much.'
How annoying!”
goldfrapp.com
Sophy Grimshaw
easyJet
TIMELINE 1995–1999
1995
easyJet is founded by Sir Stelios Haji-
Ioannou in March to offer low-cost fl ights
in Europe. In October, easyLand, our fi rst
home, opens at Luton Airport.
Our inaugural fl ights take off from
London Luton to Glasgow on 10
November, and to Edinburgh on the 15th.
1996
We launch our fi rst international
fl ights, from London Luton to
Amsterdam, then Nice and Barcelona.
Our fi rst low-fares fl ight promotion
starts in August, enjoying unparalleled
success with over four million calls in
four days.
1997
In April we launch our website. Online
bookings become available a year later.
In October easyJet is recognised as a
fi nancially viable airline and we receive
our own Air Operating Certifi cate.
Liverpool Airport becomes our second
base, offering fl ights to Amsterdam.
1998
easyJet buys a 40% stake of Swiss
charter operation TEA Basel AG in March.
It is later renamed easyJet Switzerland.
First seat sells online at easyJet.com
1999
easyJet Switzerland moves to Geneva,
which becomes our third airport base
and our fi rst base outside the UK.
The fi rst series of Airline is shown
on ITV in September. The reality TV
programme follows the lives of easyJet’s
staff and passengers.
Audiences for Airline peak at 10
million.
In October, online seat sales pass the
one million mark. easyJet is voted Best
Low-Cost Airline by readers of Business
Traveller magazine.
PHOTO © GETTY

www.germany.travel
Let the games commence
Welcome to Germany’s Winter Season
Welcome to a world of winter sports in Germany. From the Alps and the Allgäu to the numerous
low-mountain ranges, we have so many glistening pistes and undiscovered slopes where people of
all ages can have the time of their lives. Germany is one of the major destinations for winter sports
in Europe – it has something for everyone, whether you’re into downhill
or cross-country skiing, toboggans or snowboards. So what are you
waiting for? Grab your gear and hit the slopes in Destination Germany.
© Panthermedia GmbH

Does the taxman
have a cheque with
your name on it?
We can help
you collect it.
0121 228 7178
tax@hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk
www.hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk
Do you let your holiday home,
or do you own commercial
property in the UK?
If so, did you know you could reclaim some of the purchase price
back from the taxman and reduce your future tax bills?
HM Revenue and Customs have allowed
Capital Allowances on property since
1878. In December 2008 the legislation
was redefined, and it is by using this
updated legislation that we could help
you reduce your tax bill or even claim
money back, by claiming your rightful
entitlement to tax allowances.
You’ll be wondering why you haven’t read
about this in the press. Unsurprisingly,
HMRC didn’t spend any money on
advertising this to ensure you made
your claim.
You’ll also be wondering why your
accountant hasn’t told you about it.
This is because it is a very specialised
area, spanning surveying and
accountancy, and the vast majority of
accountants do not carry out this work.
If you pay income tax on income from
any source, whether on a PAYE or selfassessment
basis, and want to reclaim
some or all of the tax you paid in 2008/9,
as well as reduce the tax you pay this
year, then we could help.
Call or email for more information and a
no obligation summary application form.
Tel: 0121 228 7178
Email: tax@hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk
Here’s a quick summary of the basics:
➤ Hedge Tax Mitigation will send you the
reports for your existing accountant to
make the claim to HMRC.
➤ You could claim 20 - 25% of the
purchase price as a tax allowance. On
a £200k property that means you could
offset £40k against your income tax
bill! This could be against tax you have
paid already or against tax due in future
tax years.
➤ We will work with you to review the
tax you have paid or will need to pay,
and identify the correct properties to
claim against, so that you do not pay us
more than is necessary to achieve the
savings you need.
If you let your holiday home,
or own commercial property in
the UK, then there could be
a cheque with your name on
it waiting to be collected.
Act now to get your claim in
to HMRC by the tax deadline
of January 2011.
Enquiries welcome from introducers.

PHOTOS © GETTY
Green's the New Black
MILAN
In a city long
celebrated for its
fashion credentials,
it was only a
matter of time
before Milan's fi rst
bang-on-trend,
zero-emission hotel
opened. The Milano
Scala in Brera has
a cutting-edge heat
recovery system
that controls
temperature and
produces hot water,
and the hotel uses
only renewable
energy, making it
LYON
A potentially lifesaving
iPhone app
has been launched
especially for skiers
in the French Alpine
resort of Méribel.
A fl urry of European
ski resorts have
launched travel
apps recently, but
this is the only one
one of Italy’s most
eco-friendly places
to stay. Set in a
renovated late 19thcentury
palazzo
amid Milan’s most
important theatres,
museums and
exclusive shopping
streets, it’s an
excellent example
of a modern hotel
sympathetically
installed within a
historic building.
As its name
suggests, the
hotel is strongly
infl uenced by
New Méribel Ski App
with an emergency
button for skiers
or boarders who
need urgent help
while on the slopes.
Download it for
free from iTunes
and you'll also
have access to
weather forecasts,
resort maps, event
guides, shopping
the city’s opera
heritage, and the
walls are covered
with photography
celebrating
the tenors and
divas that have
performed in the
area. Walk through
the grand lobby
with its crystal
ceiling and views
of the vertical
gardens, and you’ll
even fi nd an operathemed
library and
an area with music
listening stations.
Not a fan of the
information and
all the best places
to go for a spot of
après ski. It even
tells you where the
nearest mountain
restaurants and
toilets are – a
truly all-round
emergency service.
french-alps.
meribel.net
classical warblers?
Head up to the
Sky Terrace on the
seventh fl oor and
you can enjoy a bit
of peace and quiet
while you take in
the spectacular
views across
Milan’s historical
centre and beyond.
An exuberant,
ambitious and
unmistakably
Milanese venue, it
makes an excellent
addition to the
city’s hotel scene.
hotelmilanoscala.it
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
easyJet
TIMELINE 2000–2003
2000
easyJet launches a campaign against
the UK Government's proposed changes
to Air Passenger Duty. In March the
chancellor announces Air Passenger Duty
changes favourable to easyJet customers.
We sell two million seats online in
2000, demonstrating the huge growth of
online sales. By September, 85% of our
seats are sold through the website.
In November we fl oat easyJet on the
London Stock Exchange at a price of
310p per share, making the value of the
company £777m.
2001
easyJet excels in the Consumers'
Association survey – the only low-cost
airline to be ranked in the fi rst division of
a customer satisfaction survey.
In June, easyJet.com is named the
second largest UK travel website.
In December, London Gatwick becomes
our fi fth base, and by establishing four
new routes, we become the second largest
scheduled airline at the airport.
2002
London Stansted, East Midlands and
Bristol become bases, we launch four
new routes from Charles de Gaulle and a
domestic route from Paris Orly to Nice.
In August, we buy Go, the low-cost
airline set up by British Airways. With the
combination of easyJet’s 35 aircraft and
Go’s 27 aircraft, we become Europe's
number one low-cost airline.
2003
By March, we fully merge with Go and
all aircraft operate under the easyJet
brand for the fi rst time.
In November we announce a new
base at Berlin Schönefeld, dramatically
expanding the existing network with the
addition of 11 new routes.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 19

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
Beaujolais Rediscovered
LYON
At one minute past
midnight on 18 November,
(and not a moment before)
the wines from this year’s
Beaujolais Nouveau harvest
will be uncorked and
celebrations in bars and
restaurants will commence
around the world.
By law Beaujolais
Nouveau wines, produced
in the Beaujolais region, an
hour north of Lyon, can’t
be sold before the third
Thursday in November.
But it wasn’t until 1972
that canny local producer
Georges Duboeuf came
up with the idea of holding
a race that would take
advantage of this law and
promote his wine to the
world’s drinkers.
“It was a marketing
exercise but also a bit of
fun,” says Colin Wills of
London wine merchant
Uncorked. Wines were
dispatched to bars by
hot air balloon, marathon
runners and even
Concorde, and it was a
huge success – at its peak
20 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
in the late 80s more than
60 million bottles were sold
worldwide as drinkers made
increasingly wild attempts
to be the fi rst to sample
the new vintage. In fact,
some would say the stunt
became too successful.
Over the years the wine
became known more for
its gimmickry than its taste
– a problem not helped by
the fact that it’s a young
wine, traditionally drunk by
Beaujolais locals during the
autumn while they waited
for better wines to mature.
“It’s a real harvest festival
wine,” explains Wills. “It
goes well with traditional
foods from the region, such
as offal, duck and snails.
The release of the wines in
autumn was a good excuse
to party and some villages
would even pump the wine
through the local fountain.”
“Beaujolais Nouveau
is, and always has been, a
wine of the people,” agrees
Franck Duboeuf, whose
father started the whole
trend. These days the wine
still has its fans in Europe,
but is more popular in
China and Japan (where
people have been known
to bathe in it) and in the US
it’s becoming a traditional
Thanksgiving tipple.
So there won’t be any
outlandish racing this
year, but visitors to the
village of Beaujeu, in the
Beaujolais region, can see
the new wines celebrated
at the much more tasteful
Sarmentelles Festival from
17–21 November. With live
music, dance and a torch-lit
procession through town,
followed by fi reworks and
celebratory dinners, it’s a
great way to rediscover this
wine of the people.
Laura Latham
easyJet
TIMELINE 2004–2007
2004
In May we make history by checking
in an entire fl ight through the new selfcheck-in
kiosks at East Midlands airport.
We are the fi rst to take advantage of
the newly enlarged European Union by
starting fl ights to Hungary and Slovenia.
We offer Europe's most generous hand
baggage allowance by becoming the fi rst
European airline to remove the weight
restriction for hand luggage.
2005
Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg becomes a
base and Berlin Schönefeld celebrates
the arrival of our 100th aircraft.
In May we introduce a new group
bookings facility, allowing passengers to
book up to 40 seats in one booking.
We welcome onboard our 100 millionth
passenger, grandmother Linda Martin.
London Gatwick becomes our largest
base, with 16 aircraft and fl ights to
29 destinations.
2006
We start the New Year by becoming
the fi rst major low-cost airline to roll out
internet check-in for its UK passengers,
and offer a 15-minute gate arrival time for
those travelling with just hand baggage.
In March, we expand to new markets
outside the EU, including fl ights to
Marrakech (pictured), Istanbul, and Rijeka.
We introduce Speedy Boarding, giving
passengers greater choice over their
seating arrangements by offering the
opportunity to be among the fi rst to
board the aircraft.
2007
We move to our new orange
headquarters, Hangar 89 at Luton Airport.
We call on the EU to ban aircraft made
before 1990 from fl ying after 2012. Our
fl eet consists of 130 aircraft with an
average age of two-and-a-half years old.
PHOTOS © GETTY, CORBIS

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
King of Pop-Up Opens Planeshop
GLASGOW
They’re brilliant at
grabbing headlines
and drawing
crowds, but pop-up
shops are inevitably
short-lived. Not
so the latest
innovation to hit
Glasgow Airport
– Planeshop, the
permanent pop-up
shop. Planeshop
invites brands to
take turns running
the store for short
periods of time,
starting with US
sportswear label
K-Swiss and now
street-fashion
company WeSC.
Co-founder Russ
Miller, who was
also responsible
for guerilla shop
Vacant, one of the
world’s fi rst popups,
says this is a
new take on the
concept. “Regular
pop-ups usually
only last for oneto-four
weeks, but
a brand can take
over Planeshop for
up to two months.”
The company has
launched its own
iPad apps, one
22 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
offering destination
guides and listings,
and another
offering the chance
to win shopping
bags full of branded
goodies. Miller
explains: “A GPS
signal lets users
track the bag’s
movements as
it’s carried around
Glasgow by one of
our staff. Simply
catch up with it to
claim the contents.”
The company
is also making its
mark by choosing
relatively unknown
designers to put
their creative stamp
on every Planeshop
interior. “We do a lot
of work with artists
who are often still
relatively unknown,
such as our fi rst
collaborator,
designer Chris
Casey.” Taking local
collaboration to a
global platform,
Miller aims to
open many more
Planeshops in
the coming years.
Watch out for one in
an airport near you.
planeshop.net
easyJet
TIMELINE 2007–2010
2007 CONTINUED
We launch a carbon-emission offsetting
scheme, the fi rst major European
airline to offer passengers the chance to
invest exclusively in UN-certifi ed projects.
We expand further by purchasing GB
Airways. With 15 new planes, we can offer
even more destinations such as Sharm
El Sheikh (pictured), Hurghada and
Dalaman from Gatwick and Manchester.
2008
easyJet opens two new bases in
France – Charles de Gaulle and Lyon –
becoming the fi rst low-cost airline to offer
French domestic fl ights outside Paris.
In our efforts to become the world’s
most environmentally effi cient airline
we reveal new CFM56-5B Tech Insertion
engines that reduce emissions, fuel
consumption and maintenance costs.
The engines are fi tted onto all new Airbus
A319 deliveries.
2009
easyJet is now a pan-European airline,
operating more than 400 routes with
over 175 aircraft in 27 countries. For the
fi rst time, over 50% of our passengers
originate from outside the UK.
Our full-year results for 2009
state that easyJet delivers the best
performance of any European airline
during 12 tough recessionary months.
2010
We offer a landmark 500 routes.
We are now the UK’s largest airline.
Civil Aviation Authority fi gures show
that we have the highest number of
passengers for the second year in a row.
In 2009, over 28 million passengers fl ew
with easyJet through UK airports.
We celebrate yet again, winning
Business Traveller magazine’s Best Low-
Cost Airline award 2010 for the 10th
year in a row!

Time flies when you’re having fun
Its been 15 years since easyJet first chose to fly to Glasgow.
Since then, millions of visitors have flown here to enjoy the city’s
fantastic shopping, world renowned art galleries & museums,
beautiful architecture, vibrant events and friendly people. When
you’re having fun, time flies. With the opening of the iconic
Riverside Museum in Spring 2011, and the Commonwealth Games
in 2014, the next few years are going to be exciting too, and we look
forward to welcoming easyJet travellers from all over Europe.
Whether you are from London, Paris, Berlin, Belfast, Bristol,
Geneva, Majorca, Ibiza, Malaga, Faro or Alicante - you can fly direct
with easyJet. When you choose Glasgow, having fun is easy.

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
Crossing Border Festival
AMSTERDAM
Europe’s coolest
and most
understated
musicians
and authors
should make
this three-night
interdisciplinary
music and
literature festival
one to watch.
STOCKHOLM
Cult director
Gus Van Sant
(Drugstore Cowboy,
Good Will Hunting
and My Own Private
Idaho) tops the
bill at this festival
that has always
played at the
more off-beat end
of the cinematic
spectrum. Past
guests have
In this 18th
instalment, Rufus
Wainwright takes
centre stage on
opening night
at The Hague's
Koninklijke
Schouwburg,
which will go on
to host a mix of
live performances.
Artists such as
Scroobius Pip and
Stockholm Film Festival
included Dennis
Hopper, Roman
Polanski and Terry
Gilliam, so Van
Sant will be in good
company when he
picks up this year’s
Visionary Award.
The festival's
screenings offer a
typically mixed bag,
ranging from crazy
French surrealism
(Rubber), to chilling
24 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Mercury Rev join
contemporary
author Roddy
Doyle and
performance
poet John Cooper
Clarke on the
eclectic bill, which
also includes cult
fi lm screenings.
17–20 November;
crossingborder.nl
American thriller
(Winter’s Bone).
Academy Awardwinning
actress
Holly Hunter (The
Piano) will also
be awarding the
world’s weightiest
fi lm award (literally
– it's a 7.3kg bronze
horse) to one
worthy director.
17–28 November;
fi lmfestival.se
Luxury, Please
VIENNA
For a taste of the
fi ner things in life,
head for Vienna’s
opulent Hofburg
Palace this month
for an exhibition
of some of the
biggest and best
luxury brands.
Around 100 of
the world’s most
reassuringly
expensive names
will be present, from
the likes of Bentley
and Breitling to
Versace and Veuve
Cliquot. It’s the
sort of place where
even windowshopping
is a VIP
affair, but pleasingly
tickets are going
for just €39, so
you don’t need to
be a millionaire
to secure a slice
of the high life. Or
as the organisers
themselves put it,
"millions of people
across Europe have
ever-increasing
disposable income
and share the
desire to use it for
personalised luxury
experiences." If
you're one of those
millions (or at least
if you have €39 to
splash out) you
know where to go.
20–21 November;
luxuryplease.com
PHOTOS © PHOTOLIBRARY

Pedal Power in Palma
MAJORCA
Sunshine and
cycling go hand
in hand, so it’s
no surprise that
sunny Palma is
following other
European cities
by introducing
its own public
bike hire scheme.
The Spanish
city’s new
cycle system
is expected to
Race of Champions
DUSSELDORF
Who’s the greatest
driver in the world?
Sure, Michael
Schumacher is an
F1 legend, but put
him in a different
car and how would
he fare against the
likes of rally driver
Sébastien Loeb?
launch at the end
of the year with
336 bikes that
can be used by
members with a
Citizen Card. As
with London’s
recently
launched
scheme, Palma
offers cyclists the
fi rst 30 minutes
free, with
computerised
screens at
Race of Champions
attempts to answer
that question,
picking out the
best drivers from
F1, the World Rally
Championship,
NASCAR and more,
and sending them
out head to head.
Schumacher and
docking stations
showing where
other bikes
and spaces are
available. The
hi-tech portals
even allow
users to report
problems or
bicycle damage
to enable more
cyclists to have
stress-free sunsoaked
rides.
a-palma.es
Loeb will be racing
this year, as will
Sebastian Vettel,
Alain Prost and
a host of other
superstar drivers
in Düsseldorf’s
50,000 capacity
ESPRIT arena.
Tickets from €29.
27–28 November

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PHOTO © AERO ICARUS, UNIFORMFREAK.COM
Do You Remember…?
There’s no getting
away from it –
we’ve changed a
lot over the past 15
years. But even in
an age when cabin
crew wore jeans
and the majority of
people booked their
tickets over the
phone, there were
some things that
made sense.
In 1995 our
fl ights from London
The switch from telephones
to the web – our early planes
(below) and today’s (bottom)
But some things
stay the same
to Edinburgh cost
you £29 (€33),
compared to
£102 on the same
route operated by
other airlines.
And today
you can get from
Manchester to
Zürich with us from
£40.08 compared
to £118.92 with a
competitor airline.
Or from Paris
Charles de Gaulle to
We’ve always believed in keeping
things simple (left). Now our ads
are simple and smart too (below)
Liverpool to
Croatia
& Rhodes
from
Toulouse from
£38.16 compared
to £93.39 on the
same route with
another carrier.
So you can
be sure that no
matter what
sort of trousers
we’re wearing in
the future, we’ll
always offer you
great-value fares
wherever you
want to go.
£ 27 .99
single
inc. taxes
Back in 1999 our site was very,
well, orange (top). These days
it’s more functional (above)
15 YEARS | THEN & NOW
Yes, she’s wearing jeans
(left) and yes, she looks
a bit ashamed next
to today’s crew (above)
WE ARE
15
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 27

15 YEARS | OUR PEOPLE
Pas Failla
OPERATIONS
LOGISTICS
CONTROLLER
14 YEARS’ SERVICE
When I still worked on
the phones, a regular
customer called Angela
would always call me
up. She booked her
fl ights last minute and
she’d fl y several times
a week. After several
years I became friendly
with her and she sent
me a box of presents
as a thank you – it was
really sweet.
28 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Unsung Heroes
For the last 15 years they’ve taken
care of every part of your journey.
We’re very proud of them all, and
these are their favourite memories
Debbie
Pearce
ROSTER
DELIVERY
ADMINISTRATOR RATO ATOR
15 YEARS’ SERVICE ERVICE
I was in the fi rst t training
group of cabin crew in
December 1995, 5, and
I’m still here now! ow! In
1998 Stelios took ok us
to his apartment nt in
Monaco. There
were only around nd
30 of us invited, d, and
his penthouse
overlooking the e Grand
Prix was incredible. dible
Carsten
Herget
REGIONAL
GENERAL
OPERATIONS
MANAGER
GERMANY
4 YEARS’ SERVICE
Every day gives you
a different challenge!
I remember a
gentleman who arrived
in Munich to pick
up his luggage that
was left behind. He
was completely lost.
Luckily I was in
Munich that day and
found his bag. That
made his day!

PHOTOS © TONY FRENCH | WORDS & DIRECTION AMY DENNIS
Melissa
Matthews
FLIGHT
ATTENDANT
TRAINING
PLANNING
OFFICER
5 YEARS’ SERVICE
When I started off as
cabin crew, at the back
of Luton airport there
was the Flying Club,
which was a social club
where all the crew and
pilots would meet up
after work – it was so
much fun to fi nish the
day there.
Sara Donati
CATERING UNIT
MILAN MALPENSA
5 YEARS’ SERVICE
My fi rst fl ight for the
airline was to Lisbon,
and I remember
the announcement
the Senior Cabin
Crew member did to
introduce and welcome
me – he was really
sweet, and because it
was my fi rst fl ight
the whole plane
started clapping.
WE ARE
15
15 YEARS | OUR PEOPLE
Stephen
Monahan
SENIOR
CABIN CREW
14 YEARS’ SERVICE
In the early days before
the company got so
big, Stelios would
throw the Christmas
parties himself – they
were always lots of fun.
Also I like the celebspotting
that we get to
do on the fl ights – I’ve
met David Beckham
and Joanna Lumley.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 29

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PHOTOS © YANN MINGARD
WE ARE
15
PEOPLE
POWER
CARING, ADVENTUROUS,
PROFESSIONAL AND
FUN-LOVING – OUR PEOPLE
TELL US WHY THEY DO
WHAT THEY DO
GENEVA
DOMINIQUE WICHT, 39
TRAINING CAPTAIN
I started working for easyJet in November 1999, so exactly
11 years ago. I started my most challenging role six months
ago when I became an instructor, a training captain. I’m in
charge of selecting our brand new team of pilots. It makes
my work really varied. In a month I work for about 15 days
and I have a good mix of tasks: a day of selection, a few days
of training and a few days of fl ights.
Our new pilots are already well trained and fully qualifi ed
when they join, but we give them an extra two months of
training – a two-week course and then a month of infl ight
training. Mentoring them makes me remember my days of
joining the airline! I’m really proud when I look at our pilot
selection – we have an incredibly highly trained team.
One of the best things about my job is the stability. I don’t
need to worry about looking for a new job, and I’d like to stay
with easyJet for as long as I can. The company is performing
really well, so every night I can go home and I don’t have to
worry about a thing.
15 YEARS | OUR PEOPLE
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 31

15 YEARS | OUR PEOPLE
MILAN
AMY ROCHE, 31
ASSISTANT CABIN
CREW MANAGER
For the past year I’ve been working
in Milan as the Assistant Cabin Crew
Manager. I work in the offi ce at the
airport most days, overseeing the
performance of the cabin crew and
keeping standards up at the base. I also
do the odd fl ight, which I still love, even
after six years.
I’m originally from Liverpool but
I lived in Berlin while working for
easyJet. It was a great opportunity
for me to learn about the country and
improve my German. From there, I got
offered this job in Milan, and again, it
gave me the chance to experience a new
and very different culture.
I really enjoy my job. Moving to
Milan was a huge challenge, but the
team are fantastic and come from all
walks of life. The team was quite small
and it was diffi cult to communicate
with the Italian staff at fi rst, but now I
love my life here – living next to the lake
and skiing in the winter. The airport
base in Milan has grown immensely
and it’s nice to feel part of that growth.
There was a point, about fi ve months
in, when I could see that people were
starting to understand me when I
spoke in Italian, rather than just smile
blankly – that was a nice feeling! I’m
sure I will still be here in the future. I’m
really happy right now and the job is so
international. It’s great that I can move
country but still be with easyJet.
32 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
MADRID
CARMEN GARCIA, 32
CABIN CREW MANAGER
I’m the Cabin Crew Manager for the
Madrid base. We have about 200
crewmembers here, and it’s my job to
look after them all and help them with
any everyday issues they might have.
I’m also responsible for sales onboard,
the cleaning of the aircraft and other
procedures and operational things
like that.
I started out as cabin crew 10 years
ago when easyJet was very small.
The airline only had two bases then,
in Luton and Liverpool, so I’ve seen
the airline grow over the years, which
has been really nice. We’ve gone from
being a very small family to being a
huge family!
The main reason I’ve stayed so long
is the people. I’ve met and worked
with so many great people over the
last few years, in management, the
crew and through the whole company.
At the end of the day the airline is the
people, and we’ve got amazing people
here. Back when the airline was small
I was based in Luton and we used
to have barbeques every Friday after
work. Now we’re bigger, so of course
it’s harder to keep track of everybody
but within the bases there’s still that
feeling of being part of a small family.
I’d like to think that I’ll still be here
in 15 years. I’ve been with the airline
for 10 years and I think at some point
you become part of the furniture and
part of the airline. I like it here so I’m
not planning to go anywhere!

PHOTOS © GUIDO CASTAGNOLI, CHRISTOPHER HUNT, JAMES WINSPEAR
PARIS MARJAN DE VROEY, 41 PILOT
We're truly an easyJet family, as both my
husband and I are pilots for the airline, which
I joined nine years ago. We do exactly the
same job, with him taking over on the days
I'm off duty. We joke that together we make
an entire pilot. He and I met at our aviation
school in Belgium. Back then we were fl ight
partners, and we fought a lot. I don't think us
co-piloting again would be a very good idea!
Naturally our three children want to
follow in our footsteps, but I want them to
feel as passionately about fl ying as I did when
I was young. The training is hard and it’s a
15 YEARS | OUR PEOPLE
LUTON
JENNIFER SHEEHAN, 24
SENIOR CABIN CREW
I’ve worked at easyJet for fi ve-and-ahalf
years. I’m now a Senior Cabin Crew
member, which means I have to manage
the crew quite closely. We all work as a
team onboard but I have to make sure that
everyone knows exactly what they’re doing
throughout the day. The best bits about
my job are meeting new people and the
travelling. I think I’ve been to about 100
different destinations! And because every
journey is different, you have a different
story at the end of each day.
We’re doing something at the moment
called the Spirit Awards, to recognise the
good things that we cabin crew do onboard
for our passengers. I was nominated for one
recently. We had this mother and her young
child come onboard and she was the last
passenger on the plane. She was really upset
as she’d had a hard time in the terminal,
and I noticed that she wasn’t wearing any
shoes. So I took off my cabin shoes and gave
them to her. Luckily I had some high heels
that I could wear for the rest of the day –
although my feet hurt! It was actually my
colleagues who nominated me, which made
me feel really proud.
Working for easyJet has made me a
better person. I’ve always liked to help
people and I’ve always been quite caring,
but the company has developed my
personal skills – whether it’s assisting
passengers onboard or helping my crew to
become better cabin crew. These fi ve-anda-half
years have gone by in the blink of an
eye – it’s been an absolute whirlwind.
daily challenge being responsible for people’s
security. As a woman it’s a great job because
you don’t have to bring it home with you.
Generally about 10% of all pilots are women,
but we have more at easyJet as it’s a very
open company. That also explains why there’s
such a diversity of nationalities represented,
which creates a fun atmosphere. After all
these years I still get a buzz from being in
the cockpit, the camaraderie with the crew,
the beauty of the plane and of course the
amazing view you get when you’re up there
actually fl ying.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 33

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WE ARE
15
Birthday
Wishes
If you could
go anywhere
for a birthday
weekend, where
would it be?
Our cabin
crew answer
1
Matthew
Rhodes, 23
LIVES IN
MANCHESTER
WOULD GO TO
MARRAKECH
My favourite
destination has
to be Marrakech.
At the heart
of the Medina
is the ancient
marketplace,
Djemaa el Fna,
which is full of
sights, sounds
and smells that
you don’t fi nd
anywhere else
in the world.
2
Adam
Davis, 26
LIVES IN
LONDON
WOULD GO TO
BERLIN
I prefer city breaks
– I’m not one of
those people who
can sit in the sun
all day. Berlin
appeals to me
because it has
such an interesting
history. I’d go to
the Brandenburg
Gate and see the
remains of the
Berlin Wall there,
to see how big it
actually was. And
I hear that Berlin
has amazing
nightlife – I want to
experience that.
1
2
3
3
Benjamin
Massi, 26
LIVES IN
PARIS
WOULD GO TO
NICE
Nice is the perfect
destination for
me – in winter
you can be in the
snowy mountains
within an hour,
and in summer
you don’t have to
move from the
city and its lovely
beaches. And then
there’s the food
– it’s the perfect
combination of
Italian and French
cuisines, and
always delicious.
4
5
4
Nadia
Rouessi, 28
LIVES IN
BASEL
WOULD GO TO
LONDON
I fi rst visited
London with work,
but I’ve been back
many times just for
pleasure. After all, I
didn’t have enough
time to do all the
shopping I wanted
in the few hours
away from the
airport when
I was working! It’s
just an amazing
city, with so many
interesting things
to see and do. You
can go for the
shopping, but also
enjoy the rest of it.
5
Lucia del
Prete, 31
LIVES IN
MILAN
WOULD GO TO
COPENHAGEN
A great place I have
visited as crew
is Copenhagen. I
think it’s probably
Scandinavia’s most
alluring city, thanks
to its incredible
architecture and
that fantastic mix
of old and new.
Combine that
with all the lovely
boutiques and the
tranquillity of the
waterfront, and
you have a worldclass
city.
15 YEARS | CREW
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 35

15 YEARS | TRAVEL BLOGS
WE ARE
15
15th Birthday
Blogger
Challenge
IF YOU’VE BEEN keeping your eye on our
Facebook page over the last few weeks
(more than 35,000 of you have) you’ll
already know that a battle of the bloggers
has broken out across the network.
Four top travel bloggers were selected
to take part in our 15 Hour Blogger
Challenge, which saw them dropped into a
mystery city and given £100 and 15 hours
to discover as much of the city as possible.
We caught up with them while they were
still packing their bags to fi nd out what
makes them tick, but go to facebook.com/
easyJet and you can see the videos of their
adventures right now. And don’t forget to
vote for your favourite blogger – tell us who
you want to win and you could bag yourself
a free holiday to the winner’s city.
Stay in touch with the offi cial easyJet
Facebook page at facebook.com/
easyJet. We’re waiting to hear from you!
Kashyap Bhattacharya
europebudgetguide.com
How did you start blogging?
A year and a half ago I’d left my
job as a business development
executive for an ethical events
company and was at a bit of
a loose end. Travelling had
always been my passion and
my wife said I should start a
blog. I think it was a way to
shut me up: “Write about all
your experiences, because
you’re constantly telling
people about them!”
What’s your favourite
place on our network?
Madrid in Spain stands out
the most for me. It’s a city that
36 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
has this inexhaustible energy
– even at fi ve in the morning
you can walk into a bar and be
surrounded by people from
all walks of life. The day ends
when you want it to.
What’s your top travel tip?
Sometimes you’ve got to trust
your instincts. You’ve got to
put away the guidebook, follow
the smells of the good food
or see where the crowds are
heading and try to discover the
place for yourself. You’ve just
got to lose yourself, and that’s
going to be my philosophy for
this challenge.
Paul Smith
twitchhiker.com
How did you start blogging?
In March last year I set off on a
trip relying purely on the help of
strangers on Twitter. I set myself
some rules – I couldn’t pay for
transport or accommodation,
and I couldn’t plan more than
three days ahead. I documented
my journey on my blog, and
within 29 days I’d reached
Stewart Island, off the coast
of New Zealand.
How are you preparing
for the challenge?
The good thing about the way
I travel is that I don’t have to
prepare too much. I’ll be happy
to just turn up to wherever
I’m going with a bag over
my shoulder. Should I need
anything, I have 11,000 people at
my fi ngertips who can hopefully
help me!
What do you think the
Facebook community will be
looking for in a winner?
Travel snobs say that tourist
traps are too busy and that
you shouldn’t go there, but
they’re popular for a reason. I’ll
hopefully be able to show people
popular sites, plus surprise them
with a side to the city that they
didn’t know about.

Matt Preston
travelwithamate.com
How did you start blogging?
I went travelling and wanted to
have a site that my friends and
family could read. But then
I realised friends and family
were the least likely to actually
read it and I was writing for the
rest of the world instead!
What would be your
ideal destination?
I’d love to go to the Baltic
states – Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania. Countries like
France and Italy are so well
known that it’s easy to get a bit
blasé, but I don’t know much
about the Baltic states.
What will you spend
your £100 on?
Probably some decent food
at some point. And I’d like to
have something to bring back
that’s from that city – I like to
fi nd quirky little bookshops
and independent places.
What’s your top travel tip?
Don’t plan too much. It’s good
to have the security of a few
ideas, but don’t have a very
strict itinerary because the
more you can make it up as
you go along, the more quirky
little adventures you’re likely
to have.
Karen Bryan
europealacarte.co.uk/blog
How did you start blogging?
In 2006 I had an email from
a student who was doing
a dissertation about travel
businesses using blogs. At that
time I thought a blog was a
teenage geek’s diary, but I did
a bit of research and I realised
they’re a great way for search
engines to fi nd information.
Within a few days I had a blog
set up and that’s when things
really started to take off.
How are you preparing
for the challenge?
I know it’s all about social media,
and people will be asking their
15 YEARS | TRAVEL BLOGS
Twitter followers for tips, but
I’m not sure I’ll have time to ask
everyone and follow their tips.
You could spend all day just
looking at your phone and trying
to get Wi-Fi! I’d like to talk to
locals and ask them for ideas.
What do you think the
Facebook community will be
looking for from their winner?
Maybe it will be somebody
who can pack in a lot of things,
but maybe it will be somebody
who can give a more authentic,
relaxed feel rather than
frantically running around. I’m
just going to be myself!
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 37

THE BUZZ | SHOPPING
1
WE ARE
15
Made
in 1995
We’re not the only
ones hitting the big
one-fi ve this year...
1 2 3 4 5
Internet
Explorer
We take the web for
granted these days,
but it all started in 1995.
Okay, so the internet
itself was around
long before that, but
many people’s fi rst
experience of “surfi ng
the net” came via
Internet Explorer, the
browser launched as
part of the Windows
95 package. Those
were the days when
Microsoft dominated
computing, and at
its peak in 2002 IE
boasted a 95% market
share. Download
speeds were glacial
and backgrounds
were basic, but those
days of beeping
modems were the
beginning of a popular
internet revolution.
Dyson DC01
Back in the early 1990s
everyone knew that a
vacuum cleaner was a
Hoover, but one British
inventor had other
ideas. James Dyson
started his career as a
furniture designer and
fi rst found success with
his “ballbarrow”, the
wheelbarrow that uses
a plastic ball instead of
a front wheel. But it was
his vacuum cleaners
that would make him
famous, and after
tinkering with more
than 5,000 prototypes
he launched the Dyson
DC01, which became
Britain’s best-selling
vacuum cleaner in
1995. We still called it
a Hoover though.
38 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Playstation
Remember the Mega
Drive? How about the
SNES? You can roughly
judge a gamer’s age
by their answers to
those questions,
but the Playstation
offers no such insight.
Launched in Europe in
1995, it’s still around
and still as popular
as ever, its famous
triangle, square, circle
and cross buttons
synonymous with
gaming at all levels. It
was the fi rst computer
entertainment platform
to shift 100 million units
and we’re still snapping
them up 15 years later
– the weird glowing
orbs of Playstation
Move look set to
dominate Christmas
lists this year.
2
4
Pogs
For kids growing up
in 1995, playtime and
lunch breaks were
all about slamming
a stack of Pogs
and relieving your
best friend of all
earthly possessions.
Originating from a
1920s Hawaiian game
played with bottle
tops, the height of
Pogs’ popularity came
in 1995, when they
were voted toy of the
year in the UK. But
their decline wasn’t
far behind. Concerned
by the idea of children
gambling (and the
fi ghts that ensued)
schools banned the
cardboard discs and
the world’s youth soon
moved on to the next
morally questionable
playground craze.
3
Toy Story
Cartoons were given a
makeover in 1995, and
classics like The Lion
King and Beauty and
the Beast soon looked
outdated as Disney
collaborated with Pixar
to create their fi rst
CGI fi lm, Toy Story.
Featuring the voices
of well-known actors
Tom Hanks and Tim
Allen, Woody, Buzz and
their friends created
a revenue of more
than $300m (€215m)
worldwide, with toys
and other merchandise
soon fi lling shop
shelves. Fifteen years
later and Toy Story 3
was released in June
this year to huge critical
and popular acclaim.
5
COMPILED BY AMY DENNIS

www.spain.info
www.comunitatvalenciana.com
aren't in text books
* Here Ive learnt things that

TRAVELLER TALES | easyJet GENERATION
WE ARE
15
THE
NEW
JET
SET
FIFTEEN YEARS AGO FEW
COULD HAVE DREAMED
OF SPLITTING THEIR LIFE
BETWEEN DIFFERENT
COUNTRIES HUNDREDS
OF MILES APART. WE'VE
CHANGED ALL THAT – MEET
THE NEW JET SET
40 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE

PHOTOS © LUIGI FIANO, ELISABETH REAL
EMILIANO ROSSI, 21
THE LONG-
DISTANCE LOVER
Emiliano Rossi met his girlfriend
Lena online a year and a half ago. They
chatted on Skype for about a year before
Rossi plucked up the courage to fl y from
Milan to Prague to meet her for the fi rst
time. “We met in person in October
last year and found out more about one
another in one hour than an entire year
of chatting online!” he recalls. He says he
was a little worried Lena wouldn’t show
up for their fi rst meeting, but she did
and Rossi was blown away. “She looked
even more beautiful in real life.”
Although it’s not an ideal situation,
Rossi and Lena don’t fi nd that living in
different countries is too tough for their
relationship – he even jokes that it takes
less time for him to fl y from Milan to
Prague than it does for Lena to travel
there from her house in Karolinka – a
fi ve-hour train journey. “My friends
are surprised that we’re still together,
but with the internet, the distance isn’t
a problem.” A year after they fi rst got
together, the couple no longer have to
wait an age to see each other. "With
easyJet it’s every month instead,” he says.
A keen traveller, Rossi has found
that one of the benefi ts of their longdistance
relationship has been exploring
a new city through the eyes of his
girlfriend. “I’d been to Prague before
but it's a lot different with Lena – more
romantic. Every month I discover a new
side to it. I particularly recommend
visiting in autumn and winter – this is
when it is at its most romantic.” In fact,
he loves the Czech capital so much, he
plans to move there to be with Lena in
a year or two, but not before he gets in
some more travelling.
“Lena and I are planning to see as
many places as possible together. This
summer we went to Málaga in Spain
with easyJet for 10 days, which was
the longest we’ve ever spent together.”
They’ll have to keep up their commuting
until the big move, but Rossi is
convinced it’s all worth it. “Being able to
have a relationship like this has totally
changed my life.”
STEPHANE
SCHWERTZIG, 38
THE FLIGHT ATTENDANT
It’s not just the lives of our passengers that
have changed over the past 15 years – we've
transformed the lives of our hardworking
employees too. Stéphane Schwertzig started
working as a fl ight attendant fi ve years ago
when we created a new base at EuroAirport,
Basel. “At the beginning I didn’t know
what to expect from the easyJet experience
because I had worked for a traditional
airline,” says Schwertzig, “but it was
defi nitely good.” But it wasn’t just a new job
that kept him on his toes – during an initial
training session he met colleague Marielle,
and instantly fell for her.
“A few months after we fi rst met we
fl ew together. I’ve even kept the call sheet
from our fi rst fl ight! It was a great day, and
neither of us will forget it, that’s for sure.”
It wasn’t long after they got together that
Schwertzig realised Marielle was the one for
him, and he decided that he would ask her
to marry him.
Planning the where, when and how of a
proposal is a tricky business, but fortunately
Schwertzig had fi rm ideas about the details
of where and how he wanted to pop the
TRAVELLER TALES | easyJet GENERATION
question – even if he did have to go through
the added stress of getting his bosses to
approve it fi rst. “I decided that the best place
to propose would be on a fl ight because we
spend a lot of time in the air, and we’re both
so happy working for easyJet. I did have to
get the authorisation fi rst, of course. I had to
explain that it was something very unusual.”
Schwertzig had to be patient: he and
Marielle have only fl own together 10 times
throughout their fi ve-year relationship. But
when they were scheduled to work together
on a fl ight from Basel to Barcelona last
October, Schwertzig knew it was the perfect
opportunity. “We were about to do the duty
free together. I did the PA call out to the
passengers and I could feel the ring in my
pocket. I started to do the announcement,
and then I went on my knees and asked
her to be my wife!” Everyone in the cabin
burst into applause as Marielle said yes.
Schwertzig and Marielle got married in Nice
last year, and this September they welcomed
a new addition to their family: Capucine,
baby sister to two-year-old Clement.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 41

TRAVELLER TALES | easyJet GENERATION
VISHNU REDDY, 40
THE MBA STUDENT
Vishnu Reddy has worked in senior
positions at law fi rms and fi nancial
institutions in Sydney and London, but
he felt that something was missing. “As
a lawyer and someone with an English
and philosophy degree who ended up in
the fi nancial world, I’d always wanted
to do a proper MBA. Having lived in
Australia, the US and the UK, I felt that I
was missing a Continental fl avour in my
career so I wanted to do an MBA on the
Continent – particularly France.”
Currently living in the Alpine spa town
of Aix-les-Bains, Reddy is just 55 minutes
by train from Grenoble Business School
(grenoble-em.com). “Trying to fi nd the
right degree took a while,” he admits. He
wanted a part-time, straight MBA course.
Location also played an important role
and proximity to well-serviced airports
was key. The company he was working for
closed down their European operations
in 2009 and Reddy regularly travels
to London to help wind down their
outstanding projects. “I’m also involved
with a start-up petroleum company out of
Amsterdam,” says Reddy, “which means I
fl y at least twice a month.”
Reddy started fl ying with easyJet 12
years ago. “We lived in St Albans, which is
only 10 minutes from Luton. I think we’ve
been to half the places easyJet fl ies to from
there!” As a frequent fl yer, be it for work
or pleasure, Reddy consistently chooses to
fl y with us. “Of course there are the great
prices, but it really takes the rigmarole
out of fl ying. You can book online, get a
boarding pass and get straight on.”
Reddy’s studies fi nish in two years'
time. So what are his plans for then? “It
depends what happens in Amsterdam, and
what opportunities arise from my MBA.
At the moment I’m enjoying three years
of learning French, exploring a different
culture and being open about what the
future holds. easyJet gives me a hassle-free
way of travelling – it makes my type of
living and work possible.”
42 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE

PHOTOS © ELIZABETH RULL, STEVE SCHOFIELD
JULIE BOND, 59
THE GRANDMOTHER
Two years ago, Julie Bond’s idea of a
perfect holiday was the drive from her
home in Surrey to her comfortable
caravan in Pembrokeshire. She’d enjoyed
a coach trip through Europe in her teens
and had visited Paris in the 80s, but
Bond says that while she liked the idea
of travelling further afi eld, her work as
a teacher meant she was always stuck
with the more expensive holiday travel
times. When her son moved with his
wife and young son to Geneva, though,
she boarded a plane for the fi rst time and
quickly became a frequent fl yer with us.
Bond recalls her fi rst ever fl ight out of
London Gatwick: “I was worried about
my ears and nervous as I fi rst got on the
plane, but then I loved it… I remember
being fascinated by the clouds. I sat by
the window and took lots of photos – the
TRAVELLER TALES | easyJet GENERATION
composition of clouds reminded me of a
Monet painting. It was beautiful.” Even
going to the airport isn’t an arduous
experience for her. “I love the peoplewatching
in the terminal,” she says.
Her grandson Alex is now three, and
Bond has visited every few months,
taking boat trips across Lake Geneva
and making the most of the Swiss
countryside. But her next fl ight will be to
Amsterdam, where her son, daughter-inlaw
and Alex have now moved. She says
she sees enormous changes in him every
time she goes, but he recognises her and
enjoys his presents from grandma. “I
take over books, children’s clothes and
I even had to take a buggy one time.”
And these days the fl ights aren’t just
family related. Bond has a surprise up
her sleeve for her husband, who she will
be taking to Italy early next year, and a
trip to Barcelona is also in the pipeline.
“I’ve defi nitely got a taste for fl ying now."
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 43

TRAVELLER TALES | easyJet GENERATION
LISA ROADS, 42
THE ENTREPRENEUR
Lisa Roads was running her own
marketing company in the UK when
she bought two off-plan properties in
Cyprus fi ve years ago. Once they were
built she found that there were no
companies on the island offering highquality
interior design, furnishing and
management services, and once she’d
overcome the inconvenience of having to
do it all, she spotted a gap in the market.
“I realised there were lots of other
people like us – naïve property owners who
went backwards and forwards all the time,
with the same logistical problems. It wasn’t
easy to ship things in and manage the
properties, so I’ve pulled together a service
that takes all that off their hands.” She sold
her other company and set up Lifestyle
Assets (lifestyleassets.co.uk), which
employs 10 members of staff in Cyprus
and a team based in the UK, and has
Roads fl ying between the two countries.
In the early days of Lifestyle Assets,
Roads found her frequent travelling a
diffi cult and expensive task – especially
when it came to booking fl ights outside
of the summer season. “At the end of
October there were few chartered fl ights
still fl ying,” she says. “As soon as we heard
that easyJet was coming into Paphos,
it was an amazing moment. Then the
Bristol route opened, which for us, being
based in the south west, was fantastic.”
And things got even easier when
she joined the easyJet Plus! scheme. “I
bought that onboard when I was on my
last trip to Cyprus, because I thought,
‘You know what, that’s just going to
make my life so much easier.’ It’s just
nice to be able to get onboard ahead
of everybody else. I can put myself
somewhere that’s going to suit me, and
I can get on with some work.”
Roads has not only seen a vast
improvement to her lifestyle (and
business) since we started fl ying to
Cyprus, she’s seen the area fl ourish too.
“It just isn’t the same place. It’s still very
popular but the big change is that people
can now book independent holidays –
they used to be tied into packages. Now
people are free to do what suits them.”
44 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE

PHOTOS © SEAN MALYON, DAN KENYON, TIM WHITE
JONATHAN CHETRIT, 27
THE COMMUTER
Jonathan Chetrit was happy living at home
in Bordeaux with his young family, but
when he completed his doctorate at the end
of last year he realised the search for a job in
biomedical science would take him further
than the usual commute.
“I fi nished my studies in France last year,”
he explains, “but it’s almost impossible to
fi nd a position just after fi nishing school. I
decided I’d travel abroad to fi nd work, so I
started fi nding out which places I could fl y
direct from Bordeaux and realised it’s easy
to take a fl ight across to the UK.”
His wife has a job in France and his
eldest son has started school there, so when
Chetrit was offered a position working in
the labs at Sheffi eld University, his life as an
international commuter began. He generally
works in Sheffi eld for two weeks at a time,
returning home at least twice a month for
a few days, and sometimes for a week when
he can fi t it around work. It’s a journey that
dwarfs most commutes, but Chetrit says the
fl ying is the easy part.
“I used to fl y with the fl ag carriers, but
I found the service they provided was the
same as easyJet, so now I can have a great
fl ight for not too much money. I only wish
the trains were as good. I take two – one
from Luton to Leicester, and one from
Leicester to Sheffi eld. The fl ight is only an
hour and a half, but the whole journey from
my house in Bordeaux to my apartment in
Sheffi eld takes six or seven hours. I take an
early train, which costs around £130 return,
so I end up spending twice as much on the
train as I do on my fl ights!”
He says it’s working well, to keep his
family at home in Bordeaux and to have “a
brilliant job in a really friendly city”. Next
time he’s going to be the one staying put,
when his wife and sons come to see his place
in Sheffi eld for the fi rst time. Could he see a
future for them there? “I think we could stay
here for a little while.”
TRAVELLER TALES | easyJet GENERATION
MAGGIE LUNA, 19, moved to
Madrid to study fi ne arts at Alcála de
Henares. She returns to Manchester
most months to see her friends and
family, but now she has even more of
a reason to fl y home. “My big sister
Helen just had her fi rst baby, Jake,
and she made me his godmother,”
Luna says. “I don’t have much money
to burn, but I always fi nd something I
can afford on easyJet.”
It’s tough when your best mate moves
abroad, as CHRISTINE ABRAMSOHN,
27, from Berlin found out. Her closest
friend Aoife moved to Germany in
1995. Abramsohn took her under her
wing at their school on day one and
the two were inseparable. “In 2003 her
parents moved back to England, and
we knew it wouldn’t be long before
she went back too,” she says. The
pair regularly emailed, but it wasn’t
the same, and Abramsohn knew
she wanted to visit Aoife in her new
home, Luton. “If it wasn’t for easyJet, I
couldn’t afford to visit her so often.”
“I was 21 when I fi rst visited Méribel
to work in a chalet," recalls PAUL
LITTLETON, 36. “When the season
ended I didn't want to get a job back in
Glasgow.” Littleton moved to Annecy
– 40 minutes from Geneva – where
he now works as an English teacher.
He married Laurelle and they have two
children. “When we had our fi rst son
my parents were upset we were so far
apart,” says Littleton. “But frequent
fl ights between Glasgow and Geneva
mean we see them every month.”
Our jet set contacted us via
Facebook to tell us about their
lives. Find an easyJet community in
your language at facebook.com
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 45

TRAVELLER TALES | 15 BEST
B
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46 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
WE ARE
15
TO CELEBRATE OUR
BIRTHDAY, 15 SEASONED
TRAVELLERS SHARE
THEIR ULTIMATE
EXPERIENCES FROM A
LIFE ON THE MOVE

MARRAKECH
Steve Bloom is a world-renowned
travel photographer. He has
travelled widely across Africa
and Europe, taking pictures and
exhibiting his work
I went to Marrakech when I was
working on a big coffee table book
called Living Africa, which covered
the full length and breadth of the
African continent. In the market
square Djemaa el Fna, I found
myself determined to capture
something of the unique spirit,
liveliness, colour and energy of
North Africa. Humans are very
social animals and you’re never
more aware of that than when you’re
at the market in Marrakech.
In the early evening light I got the
most marvellous pictures of steam
and smoke from people cooking
outside. I liked the blur of people
coming and going and the abstract
patterns I could see in the still
lives; I could get amazing close-ups
of simple produce like olives and
tomatoes. I felt that Morocco had
something special and something
a little bit different. It was a feast
for the senses. It’s somewhere that,
in international air travel terms,
you can reach incredibly quickly
from many places, and yet it feels so
completely different to wherever you
travelled from.
PHOTOS © STEVE BLOOM/STEVEBLOOM.COM. IMAGE FROM LIVING AFRICA PUBLISHED BY THAMES & HUDSON, SEAMUS RYAN/STEVEBLOOM.COM, 4 CORNERS
TRAVELLER TALES | 15 BEST
MENORCA
René Lönngren is a Swedish
entrepreneur and founder of Le Cool
Publishing, Europe’s leading producer
of alternative city guides. He lives in
Barcelona and loves to travel
About four years ago I was burned out
from an intense period in my work and
personal life and I needed a break. So I
went to Menorca with my Vespa. There’s
this old road down the middle of the
island called Camí d’en Kane that they
don’t really use any more, and every
day I’d ride off towards the ocean, then
hike, sometimes for an hour, to isolated
beaches. It was the fi rst time I went nude
on a beach – it was so far away from
everything, I didn’t care.
I read a lot and listened to playlists I
had in my phone – my wife had put some
songs together and that reminded me of
the home we had together.
It’s the only time I’ve spent a week
on my own. Le Cool is all about the
most extraordinary experiences, but
this trip was about accessing something
opposite to that. It was an extraordinary
experience, but not a cool one – it was very
much about getting away from the tribe.
Of the big Balearic Islands, Menorca
is the one that has the least tourism. I
enjoyed the Ciutadella, which is the old
capital. It’s lost in time in a way – there’s
very little tourism because most of that
happens on the other side of the island.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 47

TRAVELLER TALES | 15 BEST
PALERMO
Douglas Amrine is the British
publisher and co-founder of DK travel
guides. He started the Eyewitness
series of guides in 1991
A few years ago I went to Palermo on the
northern coast of Sicily. I went with my
partner, José, for just a week and stayed in
Palermo for three nights. It’s a big city but
not dominated by tourism, so you feel that
you’re seeing a real slice of Italian life.
The 12th-century Monreale cathedral
is beautifully restored with palm trees
around it and looks different to any I’ve
been to in Europe. It’s up on a hill and you
have to take a bus out of town to get to it,
but it’s worth it to end up in this amazing
building with bright gold mosaics.
We also discovered a restaurant
called the Pipi Room. It was off the
tourist trail and we found it completely
by accident. The front-of-house Sicilian
woman was larger than life and kissed
everyone as they came in. We didn’t speak
Italian but she said that didn’t matter
at all. We managed to make ourselves
understood and went back two to three
times that trip.
48 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
VERBIER
Aurelien Ducroz is a French skier born
in Chamonix. He’s been skiing since
the age of two and was 2009’s Freeride
World Champion. He’s aiming to
reclaim his title in 2011
Skiing is my life. My father is a mountain
guide and my mother was a ski teacher,
so I grew up with skis on my feet. I love
skiing and travelling to discover places:
that’s why I’m free-riding now, so I can
fi nd different mountains to ski on.
I’ve been competing in the Freeride
World Championships since 2004 and
fi nally managed to win in 2009 in Verbier.
It’s a very nice ski area and really easy to
get to from Geneva. It’s a big ski resort and
one of the most famous in Switzerland.
The year I won, we were in Verbier and
I was tied with another guy. It wasn’t until
the last minute that we found out who had
won. When they announced that second
place was Sweden it was an amazing
moment. My goal since I was very young
was that I wanted to be a world champion.
The Bec de Rosses, where I competed,
is one of the longest and steepest slopes in
Europe. Competitive skiers have to take a
lot of time to check out the face of the slope
before a competition. It normally takes
four hours to analyse a slope, but for the
Bec de Rosses, it takes at least two days!
You can’t make any mistakes as there is
such a risk, but you stay very focused on
what you have to do. This is what makes
this event different from any others – the
slope. This year I came in second, but I
still had a lot of fun in the resort.
LONDON
Henrik Ørgreen is the Danish
creative director of global eyewear
company Ørgreen
London is just a short fl ight from
Copenhagen, but it’s an incredibly exciting
place. I remember one trip several years
ago when I fl ew over to check out one of
the fi rst ever websites for a fashion brand,
and I realised during that trip that the
world was about to change.
On the plane on the way over I met a
Danish guy who was heading to the same
event as me, where we were going to look
at a funny new thing called a “homepage”.
This must have been 15 years ago and
I still remember the buzz I felt when I
realised how important this stuff was.
That’s the thing about London – it’s
such an international city, and whatever
business you’re in, London is where you
can fi nd out what the next big thing is
going to be and what the future is going
to look like. There’s nowhere quite like it.
Just arriving at the airport and leaping
into a cab feels great, because I know I’m
somewhere where truly exciting things are
happening all around me.

PHOTOS © MATTHEW ANDREWS, AXIOM, CORBIS. GETTY, 4 CORNER, PLAIN PICTURE
BIARRITZ
Sir Rocco Forte is the British
hotelier behind the Rocco
Forte Collection, a luxury
European hotel chain currently
expanding with hotels in
Marrakech and Cairo
I suppose one should remember
one’s honeymoon fondly, but I
remember my golfi ng trips to
Biarritz with my whole family. As a
keen golfer, Biarritz is a wonderful
place with a huge number of
courses in close proximity, and the
humid weather keeps the courses
nice and green throughout the
year. The weather is not south of
France weather, and it was never
particularly fi ne when I was
there, but I had friends who had
a house there, and a great
number of us would all stay in the
château together.
I found it to be such a civilised
place, with a turn-of-the-19thcentury
elegance about it. The
French coastal resorts seem to have
maintained a real sense of high
society, which the English seaside
has unfortunately lost – the food
there is fantastic and it’s always a
pleasure to go.
When my three children were
younger we went for quite a few
summers in succession, and they
were more than happy to be left
playing in the large gardens of the
house while I was out golfi ng. It’s
a very attractive destination, and I
haven’t been back there for a while,
but I would very much like to.
TRAVELLER TALES | 15 BEST
STOCKHOLM
Ben Fogle is a British TV presenter
and adventurer who has explored
much of the world, from the
Mountains of the Moon in Uganda
to the fabled tepuis of Venezuela
I did this extraordinary event called
the Viking Run in 2007, which isn’t
a run at all. It’s an 80km ice-skating
marathon across the frozen fjords from
Uppsala to Stockholm in Sweden. It was
extraordinary and the landscape was
really beautiful.
It can’t happen every year because
even in Sweden it doesn’t always get cold
enough. The rivers and canals have to
freeze solid for all the thousands of ice
skaters that take part. You skate along and
you have a little ice axe with you in case the
ice breaks and you fall in, so that you can
use it to clamber out of the water.
My wife and I had done little bits of
ice-skating as children, but not for many
years. You only fi nd out at the last minute
whether the event will be held so our
preparation consisted of half an hour
going round an ice rink in central London.
It was quite frustrating having children
overtaking me during the race. Crosscountry
ice skates have really long blades
and I couldn’t balance on them – I spent
most of the time on my bum. My wife
totally beat me, and I turned into Gordon
Ramsay and swore my way around – I
think I was last.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 49

TRAVELLER TALES | 15 BEST
FRENCH PYRENEES
Tony Hawks is a British travel writer.
He has written several books and
is a regular contributor on Radio 4.
The fi lm adaptation of his book
Round Ireland with a Fridge is out
on DVD this month
I travel with easyJet a lot to Toulouse
because I’ve got a house in the French
Pyrénées. I’d never skied in the Pyrénées,
so I jumped on a fl ight with a friend. It
gave us the chance to explore somewhere
we’d never been before and along the
way he got injured and couldn’t ski, so we
spent the rest of the trip just killing time.
I looked in an estate agent’s window and
it all went from there really. You could say
it was all down to easyJet that I bought
the house!
The fourth book I wrote, A Piano in
the Pyrenees, was about buying the house
and getting my piano there. I bought the
cheapest van I could fi nd, loaded it up and
set off. But I’d only got two streets away
from my house when it broke down, so
then I hired a good quality van, which I
suppose is what I should have done in the
fi rst place.
I’ve got French friends down there
now and go to their houses for dinner
when I’m there. I fl y out there once a
month. Sometimes I go with friends,
and sometimes I go on my own and take
projects or write. It’s just a nice way to
unwind after rushing around in London.
50 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
MURREN
Caroline Stuart-Taylor is the
CEO of the Ski Club of Great
Britain (skiclub.co.uk), and has
worked in the ski industry her
entire life. She typically goes
skiing at least fi ve times a season
Although I’ve been lucky enough to
go to lots of resorts, I go to Mürren in
Switzerland every year. It’s probably
the resort with the most beautiful
scenery anywhere. It’s small and
perched on the edge of a cliff, which
sounds pretty hairy, but it’s not. There
are three mountains of note – Eiger,
Mönch, and Jungfrau – and it’s
almost like you can reach out and
touch them across the valley. On a
beautiful day they look spectacular.
Mürren is small and it has a lovely
character. With bigger resorts you
usually get more skiing, but in Mürren
you can easily get across the valley
to Wengen and Grindelwald, so that
extends the skiing hugely. If you went
to Mürren for a week you’d defi nitely
go to Wengen and Grindelwald for
one or two days.
They hold the Inferno Race in
Mürren every January. My fi rst
Inferno was in 1988 and I’ve skied it
most years since then. It’s an amazing
race from the top of the mountain
to just below Mürren. It’s like an
amateur downhill, but it has some
uphill in it too. There are a couple of
sections where you have to go uphill
and you think you’re going to die
because it’s completely exhausting,
and then you keep on going down. I
think it’s 16km long. They have about
1,900 entrants. You go off one every
12 seconds so you’re overtaking people
and being overtaken – it’s a really
unique kind of race.
You don’t race to win – the winners
are just too fast. I think the winner
would do it in something like eight
minutes. You just race against your
friends and try to improve on your
time every year – although it’s diffi cult
to compare year on year as the
conditions are always so different. I
didn’t go all the way last year, but the
last time I went the full length I did it
in about 20 minutes. You just try and
go as fast as you can and enjoy it.

PHOTOS © GETTY, 4 CORNERS, CORBIS
ST TROPEZ
Totón Comella is a Spanish fashion
designer based in Barcelona. TCN, the
swimwear brand she started in 1984,
recently launched its own clothing line
St Tropez has always been a special
place for me, after holidaying there as
a child. My father had a clothes shop
in the centre, and we would go from
Barcelona each summer with my mum,
brothers and sisters. It was the happiest
time of year for me.
Now I go back to St Tropez each
year with my own family, and I love to
wander through the streets early in the
morning and walk down to the seafront.
At that time of day the smell of fi sh being
brought in by the fi shermen fi lls the air
and the cobbles of the streets are all wet.
There’s a real sensation that the town is
slowly but surely waking up for the day.
Club 55, a beach club, is a
particularly nice place to eat and have
an afternoon siesta in the sun, and
although the town has changed a lot
in the 40 years that I’ve been visiting,
there still remains a strong romantic
feel and a real holiday spirit.
BERLIN
Paul van Dyk is a German musician,
DJ and producer. He was named the
world’s best DJ in 2005 and 2006
and is currently travelling the globe on
a sell-out world tour
I’m from Berlin, which is widely seen as
one of the capitals of electronic music. We
have a very infl uential club scene over here,
but Berlin has a different way of clubbing.
In big cities, you have the so-called “super
clubs” with the big PA, laser system and
lighting set-up. But Berlin is still pretty
dark – most of the clubs only hold around
400-500 people. It’s a very intense and
intimate experience of electronic music
that you can only really have in this city.
For that intimate club setting, I would
go to Weekend or Berghain in Berlin.
Weekend is situated in the top three fl oors
of an East German tower. It has a clubbing
area, then the next fl oor is a bar, and
then you can go outside – they have a big
terrace with beautiful views.
For me Berlin has something else to
offer, apart from all the culture. It’s a
quiet oasis – we don’t just have one city
centre. We have something called a kiez,
a small district. We have all these kiezes,
which have a different fl avour and vibe.
To really understand Berlin, you need to
visit them all. It’s a very green city, so for
me, it’s a place to rest, recharge and if I
want to go out, it’s the best place to be. We
love clubbing 24/7 – it’s very easy to do
that, but then also to live a normal life like
anyone else.
TRAVELLER TALES | 15 BEST
IBIZA
Natacha Gachnang is a Swiss
Formula 2 racing driver and one of
the best female drivers in the world
Being a race driver I’m constantly
travelling for work, and rarely get to take
a holiday. But about two years ago I did
manage to take some time off and I went
to Ibiza for the fi rst time. My boyfriend
and I went with a friend, as her dad has a
house on the island.
People think of Ibiza as loud, and of
course it’s a place that’s famous for its
nightclubs, but my experience was the
opposite – I discovered somewhere that I
could truly rest.
Every morning we’d go to the beach
and go snorkelling, as we’d heard that you
see more fi sh in the mornings than in the
afternoons. The water there is so warm
and it was amazing how many different
coloured fi sh you would see. I found small,
quiet beaches where I could sit and think,
and see only one or two other people
walking past. In the evenings we’d go out
to small local restaurants where we could
talk and catch up. I didn’t go to any of the
clubs, to be honest!
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 51

TRAVELLER TALES | 15 BEST
TEL AVIV
Stephen Kaufer is the co-founder
of TripAdvisor.com. He loves exploring
metropolitan cities and lying on
sun-soaked beaches
I had heard Israel was a wonderful,
magical place, so when the opportunity
arose for a week-long vacation, it was
top of my list. My wife and I wanted to
experience as much as possible, so we
spent the week touring around. After
landing in Tel Aviv we went up north to
smaller, more historic villages, then down
the coast and promised ourselves we’d
come back one day to see Egypt.
It was like immersing ourselves in a
different way of living. Walking down
narrow alleyways and being practically
assaulted by shopkeepers was certainly
new to me! I’ve never been to an area that
was so different from the Western world.
We did a day trip to Masada, where
an ancient Roman siege took place. The
fortress is incredibly intact and out in the
middle of nowhere with no hustle and
bustle around it. Actually looking up the
ramp the Romans left behind thousands
of years ago was phenomenal.
52 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
TUSCANY
Suzanne Syz is a Swiss-born
contemporary jewellery artist who
splits her time between her vineyard in
Tuscany and her atelier in Geneva
When I’m not designing my jewellery
and ornaments for the home, or
preparing for gallery exhibitions of
my work, I can be found here on
my vineyard in Italy on the Fattoria
di Caspri estate, which produces
biodynamic wine and olive oil that I
sell internationally.
I’ve been practising organic
viticulture on the estate since 2006. We
treat the vines and soil with herbal teas
and decoctions of vegetable extracts.
The estate used to be the home of the
Roman General Aelianus Casperius,
who gave the estate its name at the
beginning of the fi rst millennium. The
relics of that ancient era have long since
disappeared, but the current building,
which I recently restored, dates from the
18th century.
It’s currently 27˚C in Tuscany
and the grapes are looking fantastic.
The vineyard is 45km south of Florence
on the highway to Rome, right in the
heart of Tuscany. I have 10 hectares of
wine and 10 hectares of olive oil. This
place is great for my creative work – I
can sit in the garden and design my
collections and bespoke commissions.
The best time to come is in early
summer when the poppy fl owers all
over the fi elds make for a breathtakingly
beautiful view.
HURGHADA
Cesare Marretti is an Italian
celebrity chef who appears regularly
on TV and runs the E’ Cucina
restaurants in Bologna and Turin.
He travels worldwide as a consultant
and in his role as hospitality chef
with the Italian football squad
I’m forever on the lookout for new fl avours
and strong sensations, and I’ve always
loved travelling. I’m a sucker for extreme
experiences, so I was a bit sceptical
when my girlfriend Katia suggested a
spa holiday a couple of years ago. All my
concerns about turning into a softie were
swept aside, though, when I discovered
the intensity of the experience, and since
that fi rst trip we’ve been on several more.
Our most recent holiday was at
a gorgeous spa and thalassotherapy
complex at Hurghada in Egypt. It’s
beautiful there, right on the Red Sea
and with a fantastic backdrop of desert
mountains. The spa experience was the
best I’ve had so far, despite the fact that
the mud therapy, powerful hydrotherapy
jets and energetic massages left me
feeling just a bit bruised!
PHOTOS © CORBIS, PHOTOLIBRARY, GETTY | INTERVIEWS BY DEVINA DIVECHA, CLAIRE ADLER, SARAH LANE, DEBORAH HATCH

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ADDING VALUE TO YOUR BUSINESS

WEEKENDER | LONDON
54 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE

Here, the new Dessert
Bar at William Curley’s
in west London is a
new way to eat sweet
WE ARE
15
LONDON
IS WHERE OUR
STORY BEGAN 15
YEARS AGO, BUT
THE CITY HAS
CHANGED A LOT
SINCE THEN. ALAN
RUTTER SPENDS
A WEEKEND
IN SEARCH OF
THE NEW
FRIDAY
Ask 10 different Londoners what’s cool in
town and you’ll get 10 different answers
– this is a city that’s constantly changing,
thanks to an endless supply of restaurants,
bars, shops and galleries that want to be the
latest, smartest addition to the capital. When
all is changing around you it can feel good to
have a proper base, so for this trip I left the
anonymity of hotel rooms behind and chose
instead to stay in the Town Hall Apartments
(from €157, book at hotels.easyJet.com).
Based in Bethnal Green in the east of the
city, the apartments were well away from the
tourists and within walking distance of the
capital’s hippest venues. Wonderfully restored
with marble staircase and art deco interiors,
it made for an ideal home from home (if
your home is a perfectly on-trend shrine to
modern luxury).
But there’s more to London than the east,
so before I got completely absorbed by the
East End, I zipped across town to visit the
Lisson Gallery (29 & 52–54 Bell Street, NW1,
WEEKENDER | LONDON
tel: +44 (0)20 7724 2739). Art dealer Nicholas
Logsdail established this gallery in 1967 with
an explicit mission to showcase pioneering
and cutting-edge art. My visit didn’t
disappoint, with haunting works by Serbian
video and audio artist Marina Abramović
(which runs until 13 November).
The capital’s art scene isn’t always so
dark, and in search of a bit of light relief I
headed into the West End and discovered
the Lomography Gallery just off Carnaby
Street (3 Newburgh Street, W1, tel: +44 (0)20
7434 1466). The ubiquity of smartphones
and post-production apps like Hipstamatic
have fuelled a – particularly urban – trend for
casual, from-the-hip, snapshot photography.
It’s a scene with a long heritage, and the
Lomography Gallery is the place to go to
discover its roots. Named after a former
state-run Russian optics manufacturer,
the Lomography movement champions
exactly this kind of shooting style. You
could spend hours looking through the local
examples of lomo photography and the
cameras themselves, but instead I fl ipped my
Hipstamatic on and set out to snap London.
The last time I visited one of the plush
Samarqand restaurants it was in central
Moscow and I was in the company of dolledup,
ostentatiously wealthy Russians. The
chain’s latest outpost is in Marylebone (18
Thayer Street, W1, tel: +44 (0)20 7935 9393),
but the clientèle is similar, with expats seated
around the low-lit, elegant interior. The
modern Uzbek menu is a unique addition to
the London restaurant scene – expect tasty,
if heavy, dishes like minced lamb dumplings
and lagan noodles in a vegetable broth.
If Samarqand brings a new cuisine to
London, master patissier and chocolatier
William Curley has come up with a new way
of enjoying an old favourite. New Yorkers
have been going out for dessert for years,
but the Dessert Bar at Curley’s Belgravia
shop (198 Ebury Street, SW1, tel: +44 (0)20
7730 5522) now means that Londoners can
do the same. Open until 8pm on Fridays
and Saturdays, you can eat at home or
elsewhere, and then step into town for an
indulgent fi nale. Particular highlights are the
basil-infused ice cream with a blackcurrant
compôte, and Toscano chocolate mousse with
green tea crème brûlée. After petit fours it’s
back to Bethnal Green, and bed.
SATURDAY
Cutting from Shoreditch High Street to the
top of Brick Lane, I headed to Redchurch
Street. At fi rst glance it looks like an
unpromising side street, but in the last year it
has become London’s hippest thoroughfare,
and now is the time to visit before it takes
that step too far to becoming gentrifi ed.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 55

WEEKENDER | LONDON
Clockwise from right, Town
Hall Apartments; club XOYO;
Caravan on Redchurch Street;
Kings Place performance
space; street art on Rivington
Street in Shoreditch
The permanent shops are usually augmented
by pop-ups of various descriptions, but
defi nitely worth a look is Caravan Style
(No. 3) a lifestyle shop full of covetable
trinkets with a distinct animal theme – duckshaped
lamps nestle next to crocheted dogs.
Further down, I popped into Speedie’s
(No. 81) – one of the best vintage shops in east
London. Stock changes all the time, and is
updated on the shop’s blog (speediesvintage.
blogspot.com). On my visit the highlights were
a pair of 50s Isophon cylindrical speakers for
£80 (€90) and a 70s velvet purple sofa with
footstool (a bargain at £145).
The capital’s cabaret and burlesque scene
has been booming for years, but the latest
acts to take centre stage have been circus
performers. Circus (27–29 Endell Street,
WC2, tel: +44 (0)20 7420 9300) will serve
you an adventurous pan-American menu
as contortionists perform at your table. Or
literally on your table, if you sit at the long
benches with steps up to the table top.
I went to arguably the best circus-themed
venue in town – McQueen in Shoreditch
(55–60 Tabernacle Street, EC2, tel: +44
(0)20 7036 9229). Winner of London’s Best
56 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Bar at this year’s London Club and Bar
Awards, it stages nightly circus acts, but the
majority of the drinkers will be there for the
dark, cool atmosphere. Upstairs in the bar
DJs were banging out disco, funk and classic
house, but I settled into one of the studded
leather booths downstairs to watch the
risqué (and frankly risky) exploits of aerial
performer TrixieBelle.
Not content to end the night there, I
headed for brand new, 800-capacity club
XOYO (32-37 Cowper Street, EC2, tel: +44
(0)207 490 1198). Set over two fl oors, with a
purpose-built smoking area and a sparkling
new soundsystem, its rotating line-up of DJs
and live acts features left-of-leftfi eld bands
thanks to Eat Your Own Ears, hilarious party
fi ends Queens of Noize and (on my visit)
electro rave night Bugged Out!.
SUNDAY
A slow start on Sunday, given the previous
night’s exertions, and a late morning trip to
King’s Cross. For a long time this was one
of the grimmest areas in the capital, but if
you know where to look it now resembles
a real European cultural quarter. At Kings
Place (90 York Way, N1, tel: +44 (0)20 7520
1440), the cool cultural venue also housing
the Guardian newspaper offi ces, there are
regular classical music and spoken word gigs,
and art on show – on my visit a series of selfportraits
from the Ruth Borchard Collection.
After the art I paused at Bar Pepito
(Varnishers Yard, Regents Quarter, N1, tel:
+44 (0)20 7841 7331), the tiny sister bar to
Camino. Along with little restaurant Morito
(sister to Moro) down in Exmouth Market,
Bar Pepito is a lovely example of the trend for
petite, local-style Spanish tapas joints. A glass
of crisp amontillado went down a treat before
jumping on the train to the airport.
easyJet flies to...
London from more than 100 destinations.
See our insider guide on page 144.
Book online at easyJet.com
PHOTO TOP LEFT © HELEN CATHCART

Christmas + fairytale
= Christmas in Prague
www.CzechTourism.com

WEEKENDER | ZAGREB
58 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE

Here, Jelac˘ić Trg is Zagreb’s
main square, surrounded by
stately secessionist façades
PHOTO ©PHOTOLIBRARY
WE ARE
15
NEW
ROUTE
ZAGREB
IS ONE OF
OUR NEWEST
DESTINATIONS,
BUT PETERJON
CRESSWELL
DISCOVERS A
WEEKEND OF
FUN AMONG THE
CITY’S OLDEST
ATTRACTIONS
FRIDAY
This year marks 15 years since the Croatian
War of Independence, but the combination
of Zagreb’s Balkan roots and chic European
vibe makes it an inexpensive and exciting
getaway. I reserved a room in the opulent
Regent Esplanade hotel (from €216; book at
hotels.easyJet.com), a pre-war landmark built
in grand style to serve the Orient Express.
Emerging from the hotel’s art deco lobby,
I jumped on one of Zagreb’s swish new trams
up to Jelac˘ić Trg, the square named after the
19th-century general whose statue you can
see there, sitting proudly astride his horse.
All trams pass through Jelac˘ić, making the
city easy to negotiate. Behind it is the main
market, and the bar-lined higgledy-piggledy
street Tkalc˘ićeva alongside, while Zagreb
cathedral, the main landmark, towers above.
This is old Zagreb at its best, but to
get a sense of the city’s rapidly changing
character, take a detour west along Ilica, the
main artery and the place to fi nd authentic
Tito-era shopfronts purveying pipes and
WEEKENDER | ZAGREB
Trilby hats, standing alongside cutting-edge
contemporary boutiques. I popped into
innovative fl orists Sas˘a Šekoranja (82 Ilica,
tel: +385 1 484 7070), and was struck by
its fl oral displays in tall, minimalist vases.
Zagreb may have all the major international
shopping brands these days, but browsing
with prices in an alien currency (kuna)
and names in exotic Slavic lettering was
a challenging and fun experience.
A short walk up Ilica I came to the
funicular, the “Old Lady” that glides up to
the Lotrs˘c˘ak Tower and the main sights of
the Upper Town. I got my bearings amid the
steep, cobblestone streets at St Mark’s, the
bright church bearing the nation’s coats of
arms. Here I also found the Governor’s palace
and Croatian parliament. It’s amazing to
think that a nation tapering all the way down
to Dubrovnik and encompassing a thousand
islands is governed from this northern city.
With general admission prices modest to
minimal, I checked out two museums before
closing time. First, the ivy-clad 17th-century
surroundings of the Mes˘trović Atelijer (8
Mletacka, tel: +385 1 485 1123, mdr.hr/
mestrovic), former studio of Croatia’s most
renowned sculptor, Ivan Mestrovic, fi lled
with his works in bronze, stone and marble.
Nearby, the Zagreb City Museum (20
Opatic˘ka, tel: +385 1 485 1361, mdc.hr/mgz)
shows reconstructions of Ilica shopfronts
from the 1800s. Today’s city still resembles
the one the Habsburgs built, ornate façades
and all, under the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Prasac (6 Vranicanijeva, tel: +385 1
485 1411), meaning “pig”, in Upper Town
produces creative, contemporary cuisine for
trendy, discerning locals. I booked a table
for dinner and tucked into delicious tuna
while contemplating a bar hop on Tkalciceva,
‘Tkalci’ to locals. I sampled rakija spirits in all
fl avours at off-beat Cica (18 Tkalc˘ićeva, tel:
+385 95 609 899), washing machines and all,
and the timeless rocky atmosphere of Melin
(47 Tkalc˘ićeva, tel: +385 1 48 28 966). Finally
I went to the Funk Club (52 Tkalc˘ićeva) with
its lively upstairs bar and basement DJ where
I plunged into Zagreb’s kicking music scene
before stumbling back to the Esplanade.
SATURDAY
After a Mediterranean salty massage at the
Esplanade spa, I headed back up to Jelac˘ić
for a wander around Zagreb cathedral (31
Kaptol), with its medieval frescoes and
triptych altar by Albrecht Dürer. By now
the market was in full swing, with rows of
colourful, locally-grown vegetables outside
and indoors, and the Kumica ladies from
nearby villages selling the local delicacy of sir
i vrhnje (cream cheese). Served with a little
fresh bread, this is a classic Zagreb snack.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 59

WEEKENDER | ZAGREB
I joined locals in the Saturday morning
tradition of spica, a communal gathering
over coffee to chat at terrace cafés around the
fl ower market.
Zagreb’s fi nest art collection is housed
at the downtown Mimara Museum (5
Roosevelt trg, tel: +385 1 48 28 100) with
nearly 2,000 items, including Spanish and
Flemish masters, in a grandiose building
amid the grid-patterned streets of the Lower
Town. Nearby, there are works by El Greco
and Delacroix in the neo-Renaissance palace
of Strossmayer’s Gallery of Old Masters
(11 Nikole Šubića Zrinskog Trg, tel: +385
1 489 5117). Moving into the 21st century,
and taking a tram over the Sava river to the
post-war residential blocks of New Zagreb,
I saw Croatia’s cutting-edge creatives at the
newly opened Museum of Contemporary
Art (MSU; 17 Avenija Dubrovnik, tel: +385
1 60 52 700, msu.hr). The most important
(and largest) cultural institution to open in
Croatia for decades, the Muzej Suvremene
Umjetnosti puts particular focus on local,
innovative computer art from the 1970s.
Much of the city’s action seems to be
moving to New Zagreb, where I found an
early-evening drink at underground music
60 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
bar Spunk (Hrvatske bratske zajednice, tel:
+385 1 61 51 528), near the famed classical
music arena of the Lisinski Hall.
I headed back to the Esplanade for
light, Mediterranean cuisine at the highend
Zinfandel’s, before moving on to the
adjoining bistro for the fi nest štrukli in town
(Croatia’s strudel-like pastry delicacy). A
short walk past the Botanical Garden, I took
a number 17 tram out to Lake Jarun and
Aquarius (Aleja Matije Ljubeka, aquarius.hr)
Zagreb’s longest-running DJ club. There are a
couple of top clubs around the lake (including
Gallery, where stars such as David Guetta
and Ian Pooley have appeared recently),
but Aquarius has attracted Croatia’s (and
occasionally Europe’s) best since 1992. The
admission fee was easily affordable, allowing
for a blurry taxi ride home.
Clockwise from below, St Mark’s
church; Zinfandel’s restaurant;
the Regent Esplanade hotel;
the funicular railway to Lotrs˘c˘ak
Tower; Zagreb cathedral
SUNDAY
On my last day, I joined other local browsers
at Britanski Trg (British Square) market, a
Sunday-morning ritual with classic Yugoslavera
mementos and sundry bric-à-brac at
more than 100 stalls. A coffee nearby was
obligatory, and the best is found at Eli’s
Caffé (63 Ilica, tel: +385 91 527 9990), where
Trieste-trained baristas serve various Arabic
brands. That left just enough time for a
farewell, hangover-killing lunchtime feast at
the traditional Stari Fijaker by Britanski Trg
(6 Matija Mesnića, tel: +385 1 48 33 829),
where I tucked into a classic local Zagrebac˘ki
odrezak schnitzel (veal schnitzel) amid sepia
prints of fi n-de-siècle Zagreb. Remembering
the people back home I purchased a couple
of good quality souvenirs at Babina Kuća
(7 Strossmayerov Trg, tel: +385 1 48 52
525) – gingerbread and hand-crafted items
for the kitchen – before a dash back to the
Esplanade to pick up my luggage and head to
the airport.
easyJet flies to...
Zagreb from London Gatwick and
Paris CDG. See our insider guide on
page 178. Book online at easyJet.com
PHOTOS © ALAMY

ZAG

WE ARE
15
CHANGE FROM
ABOVE
IAN
WE’VE TRANSFORMED THE CITIES THAT WE FLY
WYLIE
TO, HELPING THEM TO ACHIEVE SOCIAL, CULTURAL
AND ECONOMIC REGENERATION. JOIN US ON A
TOUR OF THREE CITY SUCCESS STORIES

TRANSFORMING CITIES | EUROPE
WHEN DR MARK
CASEY WAS
GROWING UP
in Newcastle upon Tyne, fl ying was a
once-a-year, if-you’re-lucky event. “Each
winter my parents would book the next
summer’s package holiday to the sunny
resorts of southern Spain and then spend
the rest of the year saving to pay for it,” he
recalls. “Even as a teenager I never dreamed
that travelling to other parts of Europe, let
alone regions such as North Africa, would
one day be within my reach.”
But thanks to the service that easyJet
provides, Europe’s cities are now in easy,
affordable reach of Casey and millions of
Europeans. Over the past 15 years, scores of
new routes have criss-crossed the Continent,
bringing visitors, jobs and prosperity to
cities that were previously known only to
locals and the affl uent jet set. Now dynamic,
vibrant places like Newcastle, Tallinn,
Nantes and Bilbao have become travel
destinations in their own right, sharing the
urban limelight with the likes of London,
Paris and Rome.
Casey – now a lecturer at Newcastle
University – has just submitted research
to the journal Tourist Studies, in which
he claims that easyJet and other low-cost
airlines have been responsible for an
economic and social transformation that
has remapped Europe in what amounts to
a “democratisation” of air travel.
“MY RESEARCH AMONG residents, tourists
and travel professionals in Newcastle and
Barcelona shows that the availability of
better value fares has allowed them to either
take their fi rst steps into the world of air
travel or increase how often they fl y,” he says.
“Before the arrival of easyJet, getting around
the EU often meant fl ying via a hub airport
such as London’s Heathrow, Amsterdam’s
Schiphol or Barajas Airport in Madrid. Not
only did such fl ights take much longer to
complete, but the cost was often prohibitive
for many. Now residents of cities from
Newcastle to Barcelona to Kraków are able
to pick from multiple fl ights that suit their
plans, and they can travel direct between
destinations, saving time and money.”
64 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Here, the new Liverpool 1
development; previous,
market stalls in Kraków’s
Rynek Glówny main square

“THE AIRLINE’S
DECISION TO
OPERATE FROM
LIVERPOOL
WAS THE
CATALYST TO
AMAZING
GROWTH HERE
IN RECENT
YEARS”
TRANSFORMING CITIES | EUROPE
Passengers of all incomes can now afford
to fl y abroad several times a year. That
means that owning and maintaining a
holiday home abroad is a realistic option for
more people, and the trend for commuting
to work in another country by plane is
taking off. Access to affordable fl ights
has become an important quality of life
indicator in the West.
But the passengers aren’t the only ones
to benefi t from this revolution. According
to a standard industry measure, every extra
million passengers in the sky bring 3,000
jobs on the ground. And easyJet has allowed
regional cities to forge direct business and
cultural links between one another. “easyJet
and other low-cost airlines have transformed
the concept of neighbouring cities,” says
Casey. “Today, Barcelona’s neighbours
aren’t just Valencia and Madrid, but also
Newcastle, Rome and Marrakech.”
The notion that the “golden days of air
travel” are over is nonsense, he reckons.
“We are living in the golden days of air
travel now. Yes, people may no longer look
like a 1960s movie star when they board a
plane, but ordinary people can now not only
dream about foreign and exotic places, but
actually visit them, get to know them and
maybe even one day call these new places
home. easyJet has given us more choice and
mobility than ever before, and that surely
has to be celebrated.”
LIVERPOOL
Awarded UNESCO World Heritage status
in 2004 for its Maritime Mercantile centre,
Liverpool was named European Capital of
Culture four years later, drawing 15 million
people and £800m (€926m) to the city. Of
course easyJet can’t claim credit for all that,
but the airline has played a major part in the
renaissance of this great maritime city.
The airline fi rst started to operate from
Liverpool in October 1997 with services
to Amsterdam and Nice. Back then it was
easyJet’s second UK base, and the fi rst
low-cost service in England outside of
the south-east.
It was a turning point for the airport,
says Robin Tudor, head of PR at Peel, which
operates Liverpool John Lennon Airport.
In 1996, Liverpool’s airport handled just
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 65

TRANSFORMING CITIES | EUROPE
Here, a view of
Basel cathedral across
the river Rhine
over 600,000 passengers a year. Today,
easyJet alone fl ies more than 2.3 million
passengers in and out of the city each year,
en route to 29 destinations.
“easyJet’s decision to operate from here
was the catalyst to this amazing growth
in recent years, which has seen Liverpool
become probably the UK’s fastest growing
airport,” reckons Tudor. easyJet’s surprise
TV hit, Airline, also helped put Liverpool
airport on the map.
The city has benefi ted too, thanks to the
ease with which European visitors can now
access Liverpool and north-west England.
“easyJet has been a key factor in the boom
in tourism in recent years,” says Tudor.
We f ly to Liverpool from 29 destinations.
See our insider guide on page 142
KRAKOW
Each month 45,000 passengers fl y to and
from Kraków with easyJet. The route’s
popularity owes much to the Polish
nationals working around Europe and
returning home, but also to growing
awareness of Kraków as a city break.
66 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
“Since arriving in 2004, easyJet has had
a big impact on Kraków,” explains Kraków
Airport chief executive Jan Pamula. “It is
an important carrier for those who work
in the UK, but we have also experienced
signifi cant growth in the number of
tourists. British and Irish people account for
almost 30% of tourist traffi c in our city.”
“For the city of Kraków, low-cost carriers
bring visitors and create income for hotels
and restaurants. Kraków also has the
famous Jagiellonian University – and
thanks to exchange programmes the city
now welcomes many overseas students.”
We f ly to Kraków from nine destinations.
See our insider guide on page 140
BASEL
EuroAirport Basel Mulhouse Freiburg,
more commonly known as EuroAirport,
straddles the French-Swiss border, and
passengers leave by separate exits depending
on which country they want to visit.
The airport faced an uncertain future
following the dramatic collapse of Swissair
in 2001, but fortunes were revived when
easyJet agreed to make Basel its second
Swiss base after Geneva in 2004, and it’s
now the biggest airline at the airport. The
number of overnight stays in Basel has
increased by around 50% since 2004 to
more than 100,000 a year.
And it’s not just the hotels and
restaurants that benefi t when easyJet comes
to town, according to Daniel Egloff, director
of Basel Tourism. “Global companies
based in Basel profi t by the extension of
fl ight connections when they are hiring –
especially when it comes to top managers.
Accessibility is one of the most important
decision criterions for employees,” says
Egloff. “Our city also benefi ts from easyJet’s
marketing – when it promotes the fl ight
connection, it is also promoting the
destination. Affordable air travel has made a
strong contribution to the rise in popularity
of city breaks and thanks to easyJet, Basel
has been able to establish itself in that fi eld,
attracting a whole new segment of travellers
that couldn’t afford air travel before.”
We f ly to Basel from 31 destinations. See
our insider guide on page 114
PHOTOS © GETTY, TIM WHITE

Gibraltar
Take a closer look...
a vibrant destination that combines the
spirit of the Mediterranean with British Tradition.
For information call: GIBRALTAR TOURIST BOARD UK: +44 (0)20 7836 0777 Gibraltar: +350 20074950

BUSINESS | FUTURE 15
AND WHEN
WE’RE 30?
WE’VE HELPED THE WORLD TO CHANGE ENORMOUSLY IN
THE PAST 15 YEARS, BUT WHAT WILL IT LOOK LIKE IN 15
MORE? WE THINK WE HAVE A DECENT IDEA…
68 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
WE ARE
15
JAMES WALLMAN
JO BIRD

THE PROBLEM WITH predicting things
is that it leaves you open to ridicule.
“The motorcar will never replace the
horse,” Motor magazine reported in
1903. Asked about computers in 1943,
IBM’s chairman said: “There is a world
market for maybe fi ve.” Bill Gates
supposedly said in the early 90s that
the internet was just a passing fad. And
yet we’re fascinated by what the future
holds for us, so much so that all major
organisations spend considerable time
and money trying to work out what’s
coming next, and how they can get a
head start on it.
At easyJet the smart money is on a
future of air travel that’s cleaner, more
effi cient and more comfortable. The
ecoJet is a design project that shows
what the future of short-haul superclean
aircraft could look like, and
aviation experts predict that it could be
in service across the network as soon as
2015. Up to 25% quieter, and emitting
50% less CO2 and 75% less NOx
(nitrogen oxide) than today’s newest
aircraft, the ecoJet builds on current
advances and adds innovations like rearmounted
“open-rotor” engines that give
unrivalled environmental performance
for short-haul fl ying.
According to Dana Dunne, easyJet’s
Chief Commercial Offi cer, the ecoJet
is part of a much broader long term
plan. “Today’s aircraft are typically 70%
cleaner and 75% quieter than their 1960s
counterparts. Now we’re planning the
next generation of aircraft that will help
towards taking the plane out of the
emissions equation.”
BUSINESS | FUTURE 15
It’s a remarkably bold ambition,
but don’t forget this is the future
we’re talking about – you can’t rule
anything out. As Jonathan Margolis,
the technology expert at the Financial
Times, once told me: “If you’re looking
for what’s going to be big tomorrow,
it’s probably the stuff that sounds
unremarkable, ostentatious or mad right
now.” After several years of working as
resident futurologist at the technology
magazine T3, and as editor at trends
and forecasting network LS:N Global,
I can confi dently predict a few things
that I think will defi nitely be around
15 years from now. Even if they sound
unremarkable, ostentatious and maybe
even a bit mad to you right now.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 69

BUSINESS | FUTURE 15
PRINT YOUR OWN TOYS
Instead of going to the shop to buy toys in
2025, you’ll be downloading designs and
producing them with your own magical
mini factory at home. That factory will be
a 3D printer, which will work in a similar
way to a 2D printer today. Except, instead
of printing layers of cyan, magenta, yellow
and black inks to create a fl at image,
3D printers will print layer upon layer
of material to build a real, solid threedimensional
object.
In fact it could happen a lot sooner
than 2025. “Printing toys and simple
plastic objects will be standard by 2015,”
says Professor Anders Sandberg at Oxford
University’s Future of Humanity Institute.
Especially since the cost of 3D printers
is falling so sharply. “A few years ago 3D
printers used to fi ll a whole room and
cost upwards of €175,000,” Anatol Just at
70 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
London-based 3D specialist Inition told
me. But you can already buy one that fi ts
on your desktop for less than €900.
And although 3D printers tend to use
industrial powders, resins and metals,
tomorrow’s will use… well, whatever you
want to put in them. Researchers at Cornell
University in the US have made a machine
that prints using silicone, plaster, Play-Doh
and processed cheese. If that thought has
inspired you and you’re now plotting to recreate
your very own cheesy Eiffel Tower,
download the plans at FabAtHome.org.
ROBOCARS
Forget new fuels and doors that open
upwards. The most interesting car news
for 2025 will be robocars – that is, cars
that drive themselves. It might sound like
a scene from Total Recall, but as Larry
Burns, vice president for research and
INSTEAD OF PRINTING
LAYERS OF INK,
3D PRINTERS BUILD THREE-
DIMENSIONAL OBJECTS
development at General Motors (GM), says:
“This is not science fi ction.” GM plans to be
testing driverless cars by 2015, and should
have them on the road by 2018.
Most of the technology exists already
anyway. There are cars that self-park,
ones that auto-brake, and ones that are
always connected to a central information
system. Where is all this headed if not cars
that drive themselves? “Every car maker
in the top 20 is doing R&D to automate
the driver right now,” says Philippe De
Wilde, robot expert at Glasgow University.
Robocars will bring great benefi ts – it’ll be
like having your own personal chauffeur,
but there will also be fewer traffi c jams and
accidents. Driving by sensors, robocars will
take up much less space on the roads. And
of course a computer-driver will never spill
coffee on its lap, reach for its mobile phone
or shout at the kids when it’s driving.

ILLUSTRATIONS © JO BIRD/JELLYLONDON.COM
BIOSOCIAL NETWORKING
A lot of people like social networking –
a lot. There are 22 million users on Skyrock
and more than 500 million on Facebook.
But there’s an inherent problem. “We’re
befriending thousands of people online,
but now we’ve suddenly realised there is an
emptiness,” says brand consultant Martin
Lindstrom. “There is a lack of physical
contact, something that humans are hardwired
to desire.”
By 2025, we could be using the
solution: BioSocial Networking, now being
developed by Tracy Hammond at the
Sketch Recognition Lab at Texas A&M
University. Here’s how it works. You wear
a bracelet, and that bracelet reads and
transmits your pulse to another person
who’s also wearing a bracelet. “The idea
stems from the closeness you get when
you’re physically near another person,”
Hammond told me. “Think of when you
rest your head on a loved one, and you feel
their pulse, and how close it makes you
feel.” BioSocial, as opposed to common-orgarden,
social-networked relationships, will
be much more deep and meaningful, and
help us feel closer to our loved ones, even
when we’re far apart.
SHOPS THAT DICTATE
WHAT YOU BUY
Like in Minority Report? Please. “That’s
not very far away from what we have now,”
says interaction designer Paul Skinner.
But by 2025, shops will be personalised,
just like your phone is. Think about it –
your phone’s hardware is the same as the
millions of other smartphones out there,
but thanks to the background picture of
your dog/child/wife/weekend and loads
of very handy apps you never use, yours is
unique. And so is everyone else’s. That’s
how we’ll experience stores. “The next years
will be about taking personalisation off our
devices and empowering the space around
us with our settings,” Miles Kemp, founder
of responsive architecture company Variate
Labs told me recently.
To make this work, our environments
will have to recognise us and respond to
us. Both those technologies are here now.
As people automatically check in to places
on location-based network Foursquare
using apps such as Checkmate and Future
Checkin, retailers now know when they’re
in the store. And those retailers are working
out how to make their stores respond to
their customers’ personal preferences, just
like Amazon.com does. “It’ll be like having
THE MACHINE
READS YOUR
FACE, AND
IF YOU’RE
HAPPY IT GIVES
YOU A FREE
ICE CREAM
your own personal interpreter or your own
personal shopper with you,” says Kemp.
“If the app knows you are health conscious
then it will highlight products that are
healthy for you.”
FREE ICE CREAM
Right now, computer gamers are getting
excited about “gesture recognition” –
that is, waving your arms about to tell
Microsoft’s Kinect and Playstation’s Move
what to do. By 2025, gesture recognition
will be very old hat. Instead we’ll be
excited about emotion recognition, where
machines sense how people are feeling and
respond appropriately. Not because they’ve
become mind readers – though braincomputer
interfaces (BCI) will be well on
the way by then. But because they’ll be able
to read the little signs that give us away,
such as the words we use, the tone in our
voices, the look on our faces and invisible
cues such as our galvanic skin response.
That’s a measure of our skin’s ability to
conduct electricity, which shoots up when
we’re excited.
A few things are happening now, which
suggest that emotional recognition is set to
become mainstream reality. My favourite
is a new machine that gives ice cream to
happy people. Using a facial recognition
system developed by the Dutchmen behind
GladOrSad.com, Unilever’s Share Happy
machine reads your face, works out how
happy you are, and if you’re happy enough,
gives you a free ice cream. Hands up who
likes the idea of emotion recognition? Or
should that be, say “cheese” if you want a
free ice cream?
BUSINESS | FUTURE 15
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 71

Jackson's Wharf Canal
Basin, Castlefi eld
Jacket from Nathan
Jenden (price on
request); top from
Obakki (£248); shorts
from 3.1 Philip Lim at
BrownsFashion.com,
(£545); tights and
boots model's own
Waistcoat (£119) from
Day; top (£113) from Zoe’s
Tees at DonnaIda.com;
jeans (£290) from Fake
London; boots (£315)
from Paul & Joe; glasses
(£211.65) from Tom Ford
at Sunglasses-Shop.
co.uk; scarf (£160) from
Leigh & Luca; belt (£45)
from Luke; watch (POA)
from Digical; Necklaces
(from £115) from DiDi
FROM PUNK TO
POLITICS, MANCHESTER
IS A CITY THAT DOES
THINGS DIFFERENTLY. FOR
OUR BIRTHDAY ISSUE WE
TOOK A COLLECTION OF
FASHION BRANDS UNDER
15 YEARS OLD TO THE
ORIGINAL REBEL CITY
REBEL
CITY
BEN EAST
LEE VINCENT GRUBB

Here, Beaufort Street
steps in Castlefi eld;
opposite, under the
arches in Catalan Square
Coat (£899) from Fake
London; top (£48) from
Religion; shorts (£500)
from 3.1 Philip Lim at
BrownsFashion.com;
tights (models own);
cuff (£50) from Rock
Angel Wings; belt (£7.99)
from Blue Inc; ring (POA)
from Jacey Withers
Waistcoat (£119) from
Day; top (£113) from
Zoe's Tees at DonnaIda.
com; jeans (£290) from
Fake London; boots
(£315) from Paul & Joe;
scarf (£160) from Leigh
& Luca; chains (£115)
from DiDi; bag (£465)
from Rock Angel Wings;
belt (£45) from Luke

GO TO PETER
STREET IN
MANCHESTER
and you’ll fi nd two hotels and a few bars
and restaurants. Look closer, though, and
you might also spot one of the blue and
red plaques commemorating the genuinely
world-changing events that took place
here. For it was on this street in 1819 that
cavalry charged into a crowd of protesters
campaigning for the right to vote, killing 15
and setting in motion a chain of events that
would end in widespread political reform.
It was also here that Rolls fi rst met Royce
and agreed to work on a quieter, more
refi ned type of car. And just a few doors
down, Bob Dylan shocked the world by
plugging in his guitar and going electric
at the Free Trade Hall.
Dylan was memorably called "Judas"
at that fi rst electric show, but his response
to the heckler, which was to tell his band
to play even louder, echoed through the
decades. In the same building, in 1976,
the Sex Pistols played the infamous gig
that not only kicked off punk but inspired
New Wave. In the sparse audience were
Morrissey, Mark E Smith, and the men who
would form Joy Division and Buzzcocks.
Also in attendance was Tony Wilson,
who says that night inspired him to start
legendary record label Factory Records
and of course the Hacienda nightclub. It’s
not just one of the most important streets
in Manchester, then, but one of the most
important streets in the development of our
social and cultural world.
IN FACT, PETER STREET is at the heart of
a city that has always refused to play by the
accepted rules. The Industrial Revolution
– so crucial to the world we live in today –
began here, its sprawl of textile mills and
elegant warehouses making it the fi rst
and greatest industrial city in the world.
This was the home of the fi rst inter-city
passenger railway, the largest navigation
canal in the world, and it was where
Friedrich Engels and Karl Marx discussed
left-wing politics. As the saying went,
“what Manchester does today, the rest of
the world does tomorrow”. For all of these
achievements it wasn’t just that the timing
was right. The city was right – a pioneering,
free-spirited place where almost anything
was possible.
So even when the heart was ripped
out of Manchester by the IRA bomb of
1996, its character remained. This was
the opportunity for regeneration rather
than recrimination, and as Manchester
embraced new, exciting buildings, the sense
of a city that had importance on a global
FASHION | MANCHESTER
scale returned. The past 14 years have
seen miraculous changes. People fl ocked
to the newly resurgent city to live in fl ats
converted from warehouses and mills, and
striking glass-clad towers sprang up. Daniel
Libeskind designed the iconic Imperial
War Museum. The Commonwealth
Games and the Manchester International
Festival enticed millions of tourists, and,
impressed by the sense that something
truly interesting was happening, the likes of
Harvey Nichols and Selfridges moved in.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 75

Left, Potato Wharf;
opposite, Roman
Gardens in Castlefi eld
Coat (£1,230) from
Mr at BrownsFashion.
com; scarf (£235) from
Paul and Joe, necklace
(from £115) from DiDi;
trousers (£295) from
Nathan Jenden
Jacket (£140) from
Numph; dress (£290)
from Fake London;
leggings from James
Lakeland (£69.99); shoes
(£288) from Acne at
My-Wardrobe.com;
hat (£190) from
Miharayasuhiro at
BrownsFashion.com

Here, Murray Street,
New Islington;
opposite, Jackson's
Wharf Canal Basin
Jacket (£895) from
3.1 Philip Lim at
My-Wardrobe.com; top
(£135) from Zoe's Tees
at DonnaIda.com; jeans
(£75) from Numph; shoes
(£100) from Swear; chains
(from £115) from DiDi
Top (£170) from Acne
at BrownsFashion.com;
skirt (£189) from Fake
London; leggings
(£180) from McQ at
My-Wardrobe.com;
cuff (£50) from Rock
Angel Wings; studded cuff
(£45) from Temperley at
Go-British.co.uk

FASHION | MANCHESTER
Manchester was no longer competing for
prominence with provincial English cities
such as Leeds and Birmingham. This was
now a city that could stand alongside the
likes of Lisbon and Barcelona – perhaps
not in the sense that it was as naturally
beautiful as them, but in that it was a
vibrant and creative place to be. The BBC
certainly thought so; it plans to move into
the regenerated Salford Quays next year.
“Actually, we like to call it the ‘Original
Modern City’,” says Mancunian designer
80 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Peter Saville. And if anyone could
understand and explain Manchester’s
unique character, it’s him. After all, this
is the man who not only designed some
of Factory Records' most iconic album
sleeves, but also became a partner in Tony
Wilson’s business when it was still getting
off the ground. These days he holds a role
that, he believes, is unique to any city in the
world. He has been Manchester’s creative
director since 2005, a post created to better
understand Manchester as a brand.
“I was looking for an insight into the
essence of the place but also a target for the
city to aspire to,” he remembers. “We can all
understand Manchester in its historic guise
as the fi rst industrial city. That’s all very
nice, but it’s museum based. So I wanted
something that would challenge the way
the world saw Manchester today but would
also give something for Manchester to aim
at too. From that came the idea that we can
view Manchester as original and modern in
the 21st century too.”
SAVILLE DOESN’T HOLD much truck with
the idea that having a branch of Harvey
Nichols automatically makes Manchester a
world-class city. As it has done in the past
through its industry, politics and music,
Saville thinks that Manchester defi nes its
place in the world by what it exports, not
what it imports.
“Friendliness, bloody-mindedness,
willfulness – they’re all characteristics
of Manchester,” he says. “Factory and
Hacienda had all of those traits, and
they both mark a particular point in the
evolution of popular culture, where
a bridge was built between music and
other ways of life.”
Of course, there are those who say
such a legacy has strangled creativity in
the city ever since – every new band is
automatically compared to Joy Division or
New Order, every new club infused with
the "anything goes" spirit of the Hacienda.
In a very real sense there’s a heritage
industry around Factory, which is no
different to the relationship between The
Beatles and Liverpool.
Peter Hook opened the latest instalment
of the Factory brand, FAC251 club, to much
fanfare last year. “But the Factory legacy
is much bigger than a soundtrack,” Saville
argues. “I genuinely believe you don’t get
an iPod without Factory Records. If you
look at the graphics of the modern world,
those styles were familiarised through
a mass audience via pop – and Factory
was the fi rst place that cared about how
things looked. The Hacienda continued
that idea into the buildings that young
people went to. It’s not that architecture
and design didn’t exist before, of course

Here, China Lane,
Northern Quarter;
opposite, Mangle Street
T-shirt (£154) from
Zoe's Tees at DonnaIda.
com; skirt (£220) from
Markus Lupfer; jacket
(£249) from Religion;
tights (£25) and socks
(£21.90), both from
Fogal; boots (£370) from
Paul & Joe; necklace
(£225) and cuff (£45),
both from Temperley
at Go-British.co.uk;
wristwear stylist’s own
Waistcoat (£260)
from Three Over One;
T-shirt (£40) from
Religion; leggings
(£276) from Obakki;
boots (£89) from
Pointer; chains (from
£115) from DiDi;
Cuff (£50) from
Rock Angel Wings

FASHION | MANCHESTER
they did. But they existed for the converted.
In introducing a young audience, design
became important to everyone in the
end. Factory said something about a state
of mind in Manchester – it was outside
the parameters of business. It wasn’t a
company, it was a whole ideology.”
And that ideology – the notion that
anything is possible – is one that Saville
believes persists to this day. The city might
be in a constant state of reinvention, but it’s
the continuing atmosphere of innovation
that keeps him excited about its future.
“In a way my work is never over. I see
a very different city to the one I grew up
near in the 1960s, but its immediacy, its
accessibility, and most of all this sense
82 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
that you can get things done remains the
same. Mega cities are overpowering to the
individual. Often people don’t even try
in these places – it’s like climbing an
enormous mountain with no base camp.
Factory would never have been formed
in London or New York, and to be honest
we would have been nuts to try. But in
Manchester, you can always give things a go.”
All the clothes featured in our Manchester
shoot are from companies that started within
the past 15 years. See right for more info
easyJet flies to...
Manchester from 24 destinations.
See our insider guide on page 154.
Book online at easyJet.com
Merchant's Bridge,
Castlefi eld
Dress (£97) from
Religion; bra (£22)
from After Eden; cuffs
(£125 ea) from Temperley
at Go-British.co.uk
Jacket (£895) from
3.1 Philip Lim at
My-Wardrobe.com;
top (£135) from Zoe’s
Tees at DonnaIda.com;
jeans (£75) from
Numph; chains (from
£115) from DiDi
PHOTOGRAPHY
Lee Vincent Grubb
STYLING
Nino Bauti
STYLING ASSISTANT
Stefan Shillingford
ART DIRECTION
Neil Smith
PRODUCTION
Amy Dennis
HAIR & MAKE-UP
Mandy Winrow using
Redken and Chanel
MODELS
Tony Mellish
Neil Lumberg
oxygenmodels.com
Sanita
mandpmodels.com
STOCKISTS
aftereden.co.uk
alpha60.com.au
asos.com
blueinc.co.uk
brownsfashion.com
day.dk
donnalda.com
fakelondon.com
fogal.com
go-british.co.uk
jaceywithers.com
leighluca.com
luke1977.com
markuslupfer.com
my-wardrobe.com
nathanjenden.co.uk
nudiejeans.com
numph.dk
obakki.com
pointerfootwear.com
reissonline.com
religionclothing.co.uk
rockangelwings.com
sinstarclothing.com
sunglasess-shop.co.uk
swear-london.com
vilsboldearce.com
SPECIAL THANKS TO
staymanchester.com
visitmanchester.com

AS MARY MCCARTNEY
STEPS INTO THE
SPOTLIGHT WITH HER
FIRST BOOK, SHE
REFLECTS ON 15 YEARS
AS A PHOTOGRAPHER
SOPHY GRIMSHAW
OTHER
THE
McCARTNEY
GIRL

15 YEARS | MARY MCCARTNEY
Clockwise from here, Sir Ian
McKellen; Stella McCartney;
Dame Helen Mirren; Tracey Emin
as Frida Kahlo; pearly kings;
previous page, Kate Moss; next
page, Dame Vivienne Westwood
“I HAVE A
SHOOT TODAY,
SO I HOPE
you don’t mind that I’ll be packing cameras
into bags as we talk,” says a cheerful Mary
McCartney, “but this is a good time to
chat,” she reassures me. You might expect
the daughter of a Beatle and the sister of a
top fashion designer to be guarded around
strangers, but there’s nothing prickly about
McCartney. She is bright and breezy and
chuckles frequently.
Her fi rst book, a career-spanning
collection of photographs called From
Where I Stand, is about to be published
and McCartney is buzzing about it: “It’s
great to fi nally have a book to show people;
86 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
I’ve never had that before. Now I can give it
as a gift: ‘Here’s my book, have it!’”
Mary McCartney was born in 1969, the
fi rst child of Beatle Paul and photographer
Linda. She was named after her paternal
grandmother (who inspired the song Let It
Be), and as a baby she stared out at the
world from the cover of her father’s solo
album McCartney, tucked inside his coat.
From Where I Stand draws on all the
photos McCartney has taken over the last 15
years, “so it was hard choosing which images
wouldn’t make it in,” she laughs. “It might
seem like a lot of photos, but there are also
favourites that aren’t in there. I kept saying,
‘Can’t we just make it a bit longer?’ I had to
get the fl ow right as well, because I included
all the different types of images: work for
commissions, portraits, my exhibited works,
and my personal photos of my family.”
It would be a tough enough task for any
photographer, but it’s complicated further
for McCartney by the fact that her family
snaps are also celebrity portraits. Paul is
shown in private moments at home, while
Stella looks at ease showing off her pregnant
belly or riding her horse at the family farm
in Sussex.
McCartney’s family presumably fi nd it
far easier to be photographed by her than by
anyone else. “Defi nitely... because I’m family,
but for me, it’s almost the opposite! I fi nd it
far harder to photograph people who I know
well than people I don’t.”
Many of her pictures celebrate British
identity and eccentricity. The book

A SENSE OF
BRITISHNESS
IS DEFINITELY
SOMETHING THAT
IS PRESENT IN MY
WORK – BRITISH
ECCENTRICITY
APPEALS TO ME
15 YEARS | MARY MCCARTNEY
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 87

15 YEARS | MARY MCCARTNEY
includes images of Brit-artists Sam Taylor-
Wood and Tracey Emin and established
actors with a rebellious streak, like Vanessa
Redgrave, Sir Ian McKellen and Dame
Helen Mirren. Kate Moss is even seen with
Branston pickle to hand. As well as these
portraits, her documentary photos include
beautiful shots taken backstage at the Royal
Ballet, and London street scenes, such as a
pair of pearly kings.
“A sense of Britishness is defi nitely
something that is very present in my work.
I live in England and I’m very proud to be
British. British eccentricity appeals to me.
The shot of Dame Vivienne Westwood
for instance – it wasn’t a commission, I
approached her myself because she’s such a
strong character. I wanted her to look great
in the shot. It’s important to me that people
like the photos that I take of them.”
88 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
One of the most striking images is of
the artist Tracey Emin, dressed as the
painter Frida Kahlo. “That came about
because I had an idea to do a series of shots
of people dressed as fi gures who inspired
them. I did a few of them but never quite
fi nished the project. It began when Twiggy
told me she loved Greta Garbo so I shot
her as Garbo, and then I did Gwyneth
Paltrow as Madonna. I knew that Tracey
loved the work of Frida Kahlo and I do too,
so I approached her. I didn’t know her then
and I honestly thought she’d say no…” But
Emin loved the idea. “She got completely
into it. She wasn’t just posing or dressing
up – she really began to embody Kahlo.
She is staring into the distance, thinking
about Kahlo’s experiences and what might
have been on her mind. It was something
very special.”
Ultimately, all of McCartney’s work leads
her back to memories of her mother Linda,
whose own successful photography career
was cut short when she died from breast
cancer in 1997, aged 56.
“I think we’re drawn to some of the same
things and share the same eye. I look at
some photos of mine and they remind me
of photos from her archive. There’s a photo
of the countryside seen from my horse, with
the horse’s ears in the shot; that’s similar
to a photo she might have taken. I used to
sit and help her to edit her contact sheets.
When I became a photographer myself
she was always so supportive of me and
would phone me and ask, ‘So, how did your
shoot go?’”
From Where I Stand by Mary McCartney
is out now, published by Thames ^ Hudson
(£19.95/€25)

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WORD OF
WORD MOUTH
OF
MOUTH
Shedding a Light on
Marseille's Underground
Design District
MARSEILLE
“It took me 38
years to travel 600
yards,” Georges
Zucca laughs.
After making his
restaurant La Part
des Anges one of
the most acclaimed
addresses on
Marseille's Vieux
Port, Zucca pulled
a daring move a
few months ago
when he opened
his new place, Le
Petit Longchamp,
on the top part of
Rue Consolat in an
area that had been
slowly decaying
for the past 25
years. “With the
new tramway [this
district] is bubbling
with creativity. I
wanted to be here
when it woke up.”
Zucca’s new
venture has kickstarted
interest in
its neighbouring
streets – especially
Rue du Coq on
the other side
of Boulevard
Longchamp. This
tiny downtown
street in a former
red light district has
been an insider’s
secret for years, but
is now attracting
a new crowd who
are discovering the
chic artisan-made
interior design in its
many workshops
and boutiques.
At the very
beginning of Rue
du Coq is Pierrick
Desville's atelier
Réverbère (29
Rue du Coq). In
his unpretentious
store, this former
photographer
converts antique
and retro objects
(anything from
reformed street
lights, boat
headlights and even
washing machine
tubs) into the fi nest
crafted lamps. Just
around the corner
lies Filomèle (11 Rue
Chevillon) with its
blue mosaic-tiled
storefront. Inside,
owner and artist
Filomèle makes
mobiles from steel
cables that can
hold potted plants,
fl owers and lights.
Continue up Rue
du Coq towards
Boulevard National
and you’ll stumble
SHORTS | EURO GOSSIP
across Le Dresseur
de Boas’ Jérôme
Pereira (20 Rue
Frédéric Chevillon).
Pereira likes to
stick egg-like lamps
between unwieldy
pieces of split wood
to create intricate
light sculptures.
Nearby, Jean-
Pierre Giusiano's
tiny world (37 Rue
Clockwise, from top
left: Réverbère, Filomèle
and drinking apéritifs in
Le Petit Longchamp
Abbé de l'épée) is
populated by lamps
made out of kitchen
hardware, and the
DesignOthèque
(40 Rue du Coq),
a cutting-edge
exhibition space
that opened last
year, is just around
the corner.
The area's notso
salubrious past
may have left a few
scars, but it seems
like the artistic
renaissance of the
Rue du Coq is in
full swing. Let’s just
hope it doesn’t take
everybody 38 years
to discover it…
Seb Carayol
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 91

SHORTS | EURO GOSSIP
Virtual Veg
MILAN
With over 85 million
users each month,
Farmville is by far
the most popular
game on Facebook.
But what if players
could actually
eat the food they
grow? Verdure
Del Mio Orto (“the
vegetables from my
garden”) addresses
exactly that idea,
allowing customers
to set up a virtual
plot, grow produce
and actually receive
deliveries of their
“homegrown” food.
A 30m 2 garden for
one-to-two people
on the farm close
to Milan costs
€850 per year, and
customers can
choose from 40
types of vegetables.
Once the produce
is grown, it’s picked
and delivered to the
customer’s door
within 24 hours.
Extras include a
photo album of the
garden’s progress
(€49) and even
a scarecrow with
a picture of the
online grower’s face
(€39). leverdure
delmioorto.it
92 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Travelling Teddies
COLOGNE
Regular readers
of this magazine
will know that our
cuddly mascot
Gulliver gets around
– people send us
pictures of him in
all sorts of far-fl ung
destinations. So
maybe we shouldn’t
be surprised that
former saleswoman
Ulrike Böhmler has
launched Teddy-In,
a travel agency
for teddy bears.
Doting owners pay
Cologne-based
Böhmler to take
their beloved soft
toys on dream
holidays, with prices
starting at around
€90. Owners book
via email or letter
Buddy System
VARIOUS
The likes of
Facebook and
Twitter have ensured
that these days it’s
not at all strange to
have friends that
you’ve never met,
but one website is
going a step further
and offering to
supply real world
friends on demand.
RentAFriend.com
allows paying
members to
browse a worldwide
database of 218,000
men and women for
hire from as little as
€8 an hour – users
could be looking
for a “friend” to
accompany them to
a social gathering,
a family function,
or simply someone
to show them
around an unfamiliar
city. One month’s
membership costs
around €20 and
and then post their
soft toy to Böhmler,
who records the
bears’ adventures
by taking snapshots
of them with
famous landmarks.
All teddies are
returned one week
later with a photo
album, certifi cate
and souvenir.
teddy-in.com
WORD OF
MOUTH
provides access to
friends in a range of
countries, including
Poland, Croatia,
Malta, France and
Sweden. And there’s
no danger of a
“friend” getting the
wrong idea either,
as the site warns
that any members
offering more than
purely platonic
friendship will
be expelled from the
community.

PHOTOS © GETTY
Liquid Lunch
UK
Food menus are
being banished in
Spanish restaurants
across the UK
as the famous
northern Spanish
wine brand, Campo
Viejo, encourages
diners to put drinks
fi rst. Restaurants
including Iggs and
Barioja (iggs.co.uk)
in Edinburgh and
Rebato’s (rebatos.
com) in London
have already trialled
the concept. Upon
arrival diners receive
a wine menu from
their waiter and
choose only what
they want to drink,
not their food. The
chefs then put
together dishes
designed to enhance
the wine’s fl avour,
the food remaining
a secret until it is
served. Wine is often
the most expensive
item on the bill,
so it makes sense
to prioritise it. To
try it this month,
head to London
cookery school Food
at 52 (foodat52.
co.uk), which runs
classes based
on the concept.
campoviejowines.
co.uk
SHORTS | EURO GOSSIP
Swap Shop
VARIOUS
Want to refresh
your wardrobe
without exhausting
your credit card?
Swishing is the
phenomenon
that’s all about
swapping rather
than shopping,
with participants
coming together to
exchange clothes
at live “swishing
parties”. Besides
saving money,
socialising and
gaining fabulous
new threads,
thrifty swishers
Radical
Reverend
BUDAPEST
Spreading the
word of God by
skateboard is
working wonders
for one Hungarian
priest. In a bid to
relate to his younger
parishioners,
45-year-old
Reverend
Zoltan Lendvai
skateboards in
full clerical dress
outside his church
in Rédics, a small
village on the
can feel good
about reusing old
clothes. Upcoming
events include
The Saturday
Swish at Shipton
under Wychwood
in Oxfordshire on
13 November; an
evening at the
Erasmus School
in Brussels on 25
November (see
swishing.be) and a
“mega swish” at the
V&A in London on
19 February to mark
the start of London
Fashion Week.
swishing.org
border between
Hungary and
Slovenia. Footage
of the radical
Reverend has
become a YouTube
sensation, with
more than 800,000
hits. But this isn’t a
new idea – Father
Lendavi says his
inspiration is Saint
John Bosco, a
19th-century Italian
priest who used
games to educate
youngsters.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 93

SHORTS | EURO GOSSIP
WORD OF
MOUTH
High
Steaks
The chef is an artist
and meat is
a religion at the
world's best
steak restaurant
ASTURIAS
If you were tasked
with fi nding the
ultimate steak,
you’d be forgiven
for starting your
search in New York,
Buenos Aires or
Paris. But you’re
in for a surprise:
Spain is the new
mecca for those
in search of a cut
above the rest. In
recent months
critics and chefs
alike have been
getting their
chequered pants
in a twist about a
legendary bodega
on the outskirts
of León (less
than 90 minutes
from Asturias)
specialising in
traditional chuletón
– a melt-in-themouth
T-bone
steak. José Gordón
Ferrero, owner
and head chef
at El Capricho
(Paraje de las
Bodegas, Jiménez
de Jamuz, tel:
+34 987 664 224)
describes meat
as “a religion” and
is fast becoming
an international
oracle on all meat
matters. Served
in church-like
surroundings
where pilgrims
come from far and
wide to worship,
Ferrero’s steaks
have been hailed
the world’s very
best by a number
94 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
of international
publications,
including Time
magazine, Vogue
and the Guardian.
A large part
of El Capricho’s
success is Ferrero’s
respect for the
animals. Trained
in agriculture, his
love of livestock is
palpable. He travels
throughout Spain
and Portugal hand
selecting cows
and oxen that he
thinks are good
enough to serve at
his restaurant. He
is very particular in
his requirements
and will only
take cattle of a
certain breed, age
and character.
According to
Ferrero, animals
(like people and
fi ne wines) gain
in complexity and
depth over time.
On the El Capricho
ranch there are
cows as old as 13
years – a rare fi nd
in an industry in
which valuable
meat is seldom
allowed to live
beyond three years.
Ferrero says:
“I am not an
economist or a
businessman, I
am an artist.” He
believes wholeheartedly
in his
instinctive ability
to judge the nature
of each animal.
Even if the cow is
of the requisite age
and breed, it will
not be used if he
feels it hasn’t been
raised in a way
that ensures it is
“noble and happy”.
The chosen few
are ushered into
retirement and left
to pasture for up
to four years on
land close to the
restaurant. Postslaughter,
the meat
is cooled gradually
and hung for three
months, allowing
water to drain away
and the fl avours to
intensify.
When ordering
your steak at El
Capricho, you
won't be asked
how you would like
it cooked. Ferrero
has experimented
long and hard to
get the best from
his meat, so your
trust should lie
with him. Steaks
arrive sizzling, but
practically raw in
the middle. Ferrero
warns potential
diners that service
and style are not
paramount at
El Capricho, but
his nose-to-tail
attitude to eating
ensures that
anyone can afford
to come and enjoy
the world’s best
steak – he has a
dish to suit any
budget from €20
to €600.
Clare Considine

PHOTO © GETTY | ILLUSTRATION ALEX GREEN/FOLIOART.COM
City of Bites
PARIS
An explosion in Parisian food
blogs has left many foodies
with information overload, but
new site ParisByMouth.com
is changing all that. Launched
in June by a collective of the
city’s best local food writers,
it fi lters food writing from all
over the web and presents it
(in English) alongside original
opinion. “Because let's face
it, it's no longer possible to
just stumble into any old
Paris restaurant and have
an amazing meal. It helps to
have access to some trusted
reviews,” says founding
editor Meg Zimbeck. “Our
contributing editors have
written thousands of articles
about eating in Paris and
nearly 40 books about food
and wine.”
To help locals and visitors
fi nd the best restaurants
quickly, the site’s “guide”
lists them according to
price, location and opening
times. It also provides
practical information about
atmosphere and how hard it
is to book a table. But it’s the
“blogger buzz”, revealing new
openings and trends, that
is sealing Paris By Mouth’s
reputation. For example, it
has been at the forefront of
covering the latest fashion for
diners nibbling hors d’oeuvres
rather than sitting down to
three-course meals.
“Two of the hottest chefs
in town – Daniel Rose of
Spring (6 Rue Bailleul),
and Inaki Aizpitarte of Le
Chateaubriand (129 Avenue
Parmentier) are opening wine
bars before Christmas,” says
Zimbeck. “After decades of
buttoned-up dining, I think
that Paris’ restaurant scene is
fi nally starting to relax. These
chefs are responding to a
desire among diners to have
options that are less formal
and less expensive.”
“My favourite is still L'Avant
Comptoir (9 Carrefour de
l’Odéon),” she continues,
“where I always order a stack
of three ham croquettes,
made with Iberian ham, for
€3.” We can’t all be Paris
foodie insiders, but with
a little help from Paris By
Mouth we can start to be the
next best thing.
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JL1 when purchasing from the website.

TASTE
BUDS
LONDON
Pig Out
IF YOU’VE EATEN
out in London
recently, chances are
you will have noticed
a snail here, a perfect
reduction there,
and a smattering
of sweetbreads
everywhere. It’s no
coincidence – three
big-name French
chefs that were
causing a ruckus on
London’s culinary
circuit some 15
years ago have
recently resurfaced
with exciting new
restaurants.
First Bruno Loubet
returned after a
hiatus down under, to
open Bistrot Bruno
Loubet at the Zetter
hotel in Clerkenwell.
Then came Joel
Antunes, fresh from
a decade across
the pond, to open
in the Westminster
Park Plaza. And
most recently we’ve
seen the return
of the legendary
Gascon chef Pierre
Koffmann, who
ran La Tante Claire
– one of the few
London restaurants
to achieve three
Michelin stars.
Now he’s opened
Koffmann’s (Wilton
Place, London SW1,
tel: +44 (0)20 7235
6000), a more
relaxed restaurant
at the Berkeley
hotel, where he’s
serving his brand of
technically brilliant
but comforting
French country food.
The menu is packed
with new creations,
but the stars of
the show are his
legendary braised,
stuffed pigs’ trotters
(pictured).
“Any pig is good
for the dish, but we
use only the back leg
trotter,” Koffmann
explains in his deep
French tones. “Pigs’
trotters are all
over France – the
traditional way to
cook them is to boil
them, roll them in
breadcrumbs and
mustard and deep
fry them, but this
dish is refl ective of
Gascony because
it’s more refi ned.
The idea for the dish
came about because
I loved eating and
SHORTS | FRENCH CHEFS
cooking pigs’ trotters
and offal – we used
to eat it a lot in my
family. But I wanted
to do it differently,
and at the time in the
70s no restaurants
were serving it in
London. The dish
we’re doing at
Koffmann’s today is
the same as it was 15
years ago – the pig’s
trotter is deboned,
braised in port, wine,
Madeira, brandy and
veal stock, stuffed
with chicken mousse,
sweetbread and
morels, steamed
and served with
mashed potato. It’s
still very popular.”
Rosie Birkett
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 97

SHORTS | PAPRIKA
TASTE
BUDS
Red Gold
Feeling Hungary? Get
an authentic taste of
Budapest with the subtle
sweetness of paprika
PAPRIKA BOUGHT
from a supermarket
often smells good,
but doesn’t really
make a difference
to the fl avour of
your food. You may
fi nd it surprising
that Hungarians
hold the orangey
powder in such high
esteem, but try the
genuine article and
you’ll understand.
Real Hungarian
high-grade paprika,
available in a palette
of fi ery colours
from letterbox red
to a brilliant auburn
(its nickname is
red gold) adds
depth of fl avour,
rich colour and an
LIQUID INDULGENCE APEROL
VENICE
No-one does light
and refreshing
apéritifs quite like
they do in Venice,
home of the
extremely quaffable
spritz (a wine-based
cocktail). So, if
you’re lucky enough
to fi nd yourself in
the city of canals
looking out from a
bacari (wine bar)
across a buzzing
unmistakably spicy
sweetness to any
dish it’s added to.
Paprika is created
from the dried,
ground powder of
the capsicum (red
chilli pepper) that
was fi rst introduced
to Western Europe
by Christopher
Columbus in the late
15th century. Use
of chillis gradually
spread across
Europe, and arrived
in Hungary during
the rule of the
Turkish Empire in
the 16th century.
What happened
next is the stuff
of legend. Some
claim the pretty
piazza, order a spritz
al Aperol. Made
with Aperol, a fruity
Italian concoction
in a somewhat
alarming orange
hue, this spritz is
subtly fl avoured by
the orange, rhubarb
and gentian in the
alcoholic spirit.
Aperol was
launched in 1919
by the Barbieri
brothers from
98 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
red peppers, or
pimentos, were
fi rst grown by the
wealthy purely
for ornamental
purposes, and that
it was the peasants
who started using
Venice and quickly
became one of
Italy’s favourite
drinks. Its name
comes from apéro,
the French word for
an aperitif, and at
just 11% alcohol (or
poco alcolico – “a bit
alcoholic” according
to the label), it’s a
gentle way to start
a long evening of
socialising and
eating among
them to liven up
food. In other
tales, the valuable
peppers were
jealously guarded
by the aristocracy,
who introduced
the death penalty
friends and family
– just the way the
Italians like it.
To make the
perfect Aperol
spritz, place a few
ice cubes in a glass,
gently pour in three
parts prosecco, a
dash of soda and
then two parts
Aperol – added last
so it doesn’t settle
on the bottom.
aperol.com
for any peasant
found growing
them. Whatever
the case, by the
1600s the spice was
becoming a staple
of Hungarian cuisine
in homemade
sausages and
salamis, fi sh soups
and, of course,
goulash – the meat
and vegetable stew
widely regarded
as the country’s
national dish.

PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY
The peppers grow
best in a warm dry
climate, such as that
of the Szeged and
Kalocsa regions of
southern Hungary,
which have become
the main areas of
production. Here
paprika is still grown
and harvested in
the traditional way:
the peppers are
cultivated through
the summer, before
local workers help
to pick and hang
them into long
strings to dry slowly
in the fresh air and
sun, after which
they are ground to
a powder. The town
of Szeged is so
closely associated
with paprika that
there is a museum
dedicated to it
(pickmuzeum.hu)
and the sweetish
scent of the spice
hangs permanently
in the air.
Paprika isn’t
confi ned to Hungary
– Spain and India are
also producers – but
this is where you’ll
fi nd the fi nest in the
world. According to
Mark Steene, spice
guru and owner
of spice importers
Seasoned Pioneers
(seasoned
pioneers.co.uk)
paprika runs a
gamut of fl avours,
from mildly spicy to
sweet and subtle or
fi ercely hot, and he
explains that, like
any fi ne product,
such as wines,
coffee or chocolate,
Hungarian paprika
is graded according
to quality and taste.
There are around
nine levels of quality,
though in most
countries only one
or two of the grades
are regularly used.
“The standard
grading system
is called ASTA, so
different qualities of
paprika will range
from 60 to 140
ASTAs, depending
on the fi nesse of
the product,” he
explains. “Each type
also has names to
signify its defi ning
characteristics,
such as rose, noble
sweet, delicate and
exquisite delicate.”
Steene says
paprika is also
similar to wine in
that it’s blended –
FOOD FOR
THOUGHT
Brighter is better –
higher ASTA paprika
tends to have a
more vivid colour
and stronger taste.
after grinding it’s
mixed with chilli oil
and seeds to add
heat. This is done
by local experts to
achieve the right
intensity of colour
and fl avour. He
adds that in good
years, with the right
amounts of sun and
rain, there’s often
a better harvest
and higher-quality
product than if the
weather has been
grey and damp.
“Buyers won’t
necessarily ask
about paprika from
a specifi c year, like
they would with
wines,” he laughs,
“but you can notice a
difference in quality
if there’s been a bad
harvest, and there’s
less of the fi ner
grades available.”
So prominent is
paprika in Hungarian
culture that it’s
one of the main
souvenirs sold,
along with paprika
spoons, which are
carved out of wood
and adorned with
simple paintings of
fl owers. As gifts go,
paprika may not
blow your friends’
socks off, but just
wait until they try
it in their cooking.
Laura Latham
WHERE
TO TRY
HUNGARIAN
PAPRIKA
THE GAY
HUSSAR
LONDON
This Soho
institution has
been serving up
Hungarian food
for more than
50 years. It used
to be a hotbed
of socialism and
celebrity, but now
it’s tourists who
sample the veal
goulash. 2 Greek
Street, W1, tel: +44
(0)20 7437 0973
COSTES
BUDAPEST
This Michelinstarred
restaurant
offers traditional
Hungarian food
with contemporary
fl air, a fabulous
tasting menu
plus good
vegetarian options.
4 Ráday Utca, tel:
+36 1 219 0696
GOULASH
ABERDEEN
Unlikely as it
sounds, this
Hungarian
restaurant is
an Aberdeen
landmark. Owner
Zoltan Dragen
serves a range of
authentic dishes,
Hungarian coffee
and world-class
dessert wines.
17 Adelphi, tel: +44
(0)1224 210 530
VAL D’ISÈRE
ALPINA LODGE
In the heart
of Val d’Isère
Village.
VIP *
OFFER FOR THE READERS
•SPECIAL•
3 minutes walk from the ski runs
• 44 fully fitted flats
• Individual chalet with spa
• Quality service
495 €
per week
a head **
From :
* A basket of local specialities
presented on arrival
&
Ski passes and equipment
included and delivered
directly to the residence
For more information
&
on-line reservations
0033 (0)4 79 41 60 00
www.alpina-lodge.com
city
PEMA
** Prices based on rental contracts for 9 people

SHORTS | NEW RESTAURANTS
TASTE
BUDS
Bo Cinq
AMSTERDAM
The shouty
neon jungle of
Amsterdam’s Lange
Leidsedwarsstraat
has never been
associated with fi ne
dining. But keep
your head down
and run the gauntlet
of tirelessly jaunty
door touts and you’ll
fi nd a very different
dining experience.
Bo Cinq doesn’t
need to holler its
credentials. In fact,
the place is so
discreet as to be
barely perceptible.
Established
earlier this year,
Blavis
BARCELONA
A cosmopolitan
city packed with
chefs, Barcelona’s
cuisine can have
a distinct air of
one-upmanship.
So it makes a
refreshing change
that Blavis, a small,
local restaurant
with space for only
14 diners, is causing
such a stir.
Run by young
couple Sonia
Devesa and Marc
Casademunt,
Blavis has built its
reputation on the
it’s billing itself as
a new concept on
the Amsterdam
hospitality scene,
and while its fusion
food isn’t quite as
ground-breaking
as it would have
you believe, the
restaurant is well
worth a visit. The
French-Arabic
kitchen is overseen
by two chefs
(Marilyn Lukies
and Mohammed
Mahraoui) who
each specialise
in very different
cuisines, and the
establishment has
the cosmopolitan
air of a members’
club, boasting one
of the longest bars
in Amsterdam, a
lounge stuffed
with recessionshrugging
furniture,
and a smoking room
that recently won
the “golden lighter”
award for best
in class.
Mains are
dominated by North
African staples such
personal touch.
Sonia attends to
Blavis’ six cosy
tables and Marc
mans the kitchen,
visiting the market
daily and picking
out fresh seasonal
produce to create
his three-course
Mediterranean
lunch menu. Blavis
is also open on
Thursday and
Friday evenings,
but it’s the lunches
(served from 1pm
to 4pm weekdays)
that have the city’s
foodies buzzing.
100 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
as tagines and
koftas that have
been dressed up
with nifty brasserie
fl ourishes like the
moreish harissafl
avoured fries.
Take a deep
breath and order
the carpaccio of
pigs’ feet served
with Parmesan
and dried fruit,
The wagyu burger
with foie gras is
delectable and
anything involving
seafood is going
to be a safe bet,
because they won’t
the cold almond
and garlic soup,
or “Grandma’s”
lentil stew with
sausage. Mains
include dishes
serve it unless it’s
super-fresh.
Dessert fl ipreverses
the ethnic
balance with,
among others, a
dinky trio of vanilla,
such as salmon
stuffed with brie,
served with roasted
sweet peppers,
or rustic chicken
soup with potatoes
coffee and mint
crème brûlées
for a superb end.
93–95 Lange
Leidsedwarsstraat,
tel: +31 622 0682
Mark Smith
and mushrooms.
And for dessert?
You won’t be
disappointed with a
slice of homemade
Santiago pie – a
delicious Galician
almond torta.
Come Thursday
and Friday
evenings, Blavis
stays true to its
Cátalan roots and
serves up tapas
that have diners
queuing right
around the corner.
85 Calle Saragossa,
tel: +34 935 182 005
Regina Winkle-Bryan
PHOTO © SUSANA GELLIDA

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Soundboard Resonator and Tactile
Response System involve the pianist in
a way no other digital instrument
can. It’s the ultimate piano
experience.
europe.yamaha.com
P Series
DGX
Arius
CLP
CVP
Modus

ADVERTISING PROMOTION
NEED
SOME
NEW
GEAR
FOR
THIS
SEASON?
Head to Snow+Rock for the world’s
best brands, recommended by
dedicated snow-sport specialists
SINCE 1984 SNOW+ROCK has specialised
in premium products from the world of snow
sports. This tradition continues today – some
of our brands are well known and others are
new, but all of our stores include the very
best products available today.
For Snow+Rock, fi rst-class snow wear
could be the best performing or the best
looking, or even both – but there are
no second-rate options. Even our most
affordable products perform perfectly –
including our superb value ski, boot and
binding package at only £300.
As we are a specialist snow-sports retailer,
our well-trained and friendly staff are all
skiers and snowboarders with excellent
knowledge of our many products. Many of
them select the ranges and test them on
snow to ensure that Snow+Rock only brings
customers essential gear we would want to
use on the slopes.
We pride ourselves on being dedicated to
the ‘world’s best brands’. So whether it’s the
latest skiing gear, the hottest snowboarding
equipment or high-performance, all-weather
accessories, Snow+Rock offers the very
best, every time.
Here from left,
“Jumping Launch” jacket
(£150) “Poacher” pant
(£99.99) “Revolver”
jacket (£230) “Cargo”
pant (£145) all by Burton

Left, “Sabre” SV jacket
(£400); “Sabre” pant
(£300) both by Arcteryx
Below, “Killington”
jacket (£250);
“Athena” pant (£140)
both by Eider
Right, “Vana” jacket
(£390–£450);
“Savona Dynamic II”
pant, (£180–£210)
by Schoffel
21 stores across the UK.
Tel: +44 (0)845 100 1000
snowandrock.com
Below from left to
right, “Endless” jacket
(£150);“Prism” pant
(£110);“Arena” jacket
(£170);“Prism” pant
(£110); “Lark Rocker”
all by Burton; Salomon
snowboard (£260)
GET KITTED OUT
THIS WINTER
Kastle Ski £679
This full fat big
mountain charger
is back. The
2x Hollowtech
construction keeps
swing weight to a
minimum so that it
can still pivot and slide
through trees or down
a narrow gulley, as well
as steam across a
powder fi eld.
Sweet Trooper
Helmet £189.99
With its carbon fi bre
reinforced high impact
ABS Occipital shell, the
Sweet Trooper HC offers
maximum protection
with the latest comfort
advancements such
as internal ventilation
channels, removable
ear pads and an
EVA frame.
Salomon Impact
8 CS £259.99
These boots give
advanced skiers the
best in customisation,
comfort and
performance. They
feature “Custom Shell”
technology, which is
unique to Salomon
and provides a
personalised fi t like
no other boot.
Adidas ID2
Goggle £129.99
This innovative goggle
from Adidas has a
unique two-part selflevelling
frame for a
snug yet extremely
comfortable fi t.
Spherical anti-fog
“Vision Advantage”
lenses also offer precise
optical clarity and
superb peripheral vision.
ADVERTISING PROMOTION
UK EXCLUSIVE
COLOUR

ADVERTISING PROMOTION
ALPINE HIGHS FOR ALL THE FAMILY
Serre Chevalier’s snow-sure slopes, spa treats and
ski schools will help your winter break really take off
SITUATED AT THE gateway to the southern Alps,
Serre Chevalier Vallée welcomes you this season
with an action-packed and fun-fi lled atmosphere.
Stretching 15km along the Guisane Valley to
Briançon, France’s highest Alpine town – with
the main ski stations at Briançon, Chantemerle,
Villeneuve and Monêtier – skiers and boarders
can access more than 250km of snow-sure,
larch-lined slopes up to an altitude of 2,830m.
The atmosphere is cool and relaxed, with
friendly locals who provide good value hotels,
restaurants and chalets. It’s great for families too,
with ski school facilities in every village and free
lift passes for children under six.
New additions this season include a six-seater
chairlift running between Villeneuve and
Monêtier, increased snowmaking facilities at
Chantemerle to help extend the season, and
SPECIAL
OFFER
Self-catering
accommodation from
just £225pp/pw,
on selected dates,
including a six-day
lift pass.
France’s newest and longest luge piste (1.4km)
opening in Montgenevre.
And for anyone wanting to unwind at the end
of a hard day, the fabulous Les Grands Bains du
Monêtier offers a retreat of indoor and outdoor
pools, spa and wellness facilities.
So there really is something for
everyone at Serre Chevalier Vallée.
serre-chevalier.com

Children’s kimonos
This
su s u uunique
uniqque
e special sp spe pecial
exhibition on children’s
re ren’s kimon kim kimonos kkimonos
onos nos exclusively e features items
from f om m the
he re r rremarkable
a Nakano Kazuko
collection ccolle
lllection
ect from Yamagata in northern Ja-
pan. pa . This si is the fi rst time that these items
are ar re on public display, and this is
the fi
rst exhibition in
Europe Eu EEu
E to be
exclusively ex e
devoted to
the subject
of children’s
kimonos. All
of the more than 90 children’s kimonos
originate from the Edo period
(1603–1867) up to the Shôwa period
(1926–1989). A slideshow and videos
on the subject of children’s kimonos put
the visitors in the right mood for the exhibition.
Opening Hours:
MUSEUM, SHOP and CAFÉ:
Daily from 10.00 until 18.00
Steinenvorstadt 1, CH-4051 Basel
Tel. +41 (0)61 225 95 95
www.puppenhausmuseum.ch
The building is accessible by wheelchair.
Special exhibition
16 October 2010
until 3 April 2011
Nakano Kazuko Collection
dialog-x.ch
THE ULTIMATE IN LUXURY
SURPRISINGLY AFFORDABLE
A hotel of distinction, of glamour, of style, of tradition.
Beautifully designed rooms with the delicate combination
of art deco heritage and contemporary touches. A long
history of first class service, spectacular facilities and
amazing food. But at a price you can afford. Book online
at www.theregentzagreb.com
Photo by: Hrvoje Serdar

A–Z | DESTINATION GUIDES
Madeira
CANARY
ISLANDS
Lanzarote
Fuerteventura
Tenerife
South
DESTINATION
GUIDES
A-Z
Gran
Canaria
PAINTING
EUROPE
ORANGE
SINCE
1995
Agadir
106 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
PORTUGAL
Lisbon
Faro
Casablanca
Marrakech
Gibraltar
Tangier
Porto
Málaga
Fez NEW
MOROCCO
Asturias
Madrid
Almería
SPAIN
Bilbao
Valencia
Alicante
Murcia
Belfast
City
Birmingham
UK
Bristol
Stansted
Bournemouth Luton
Gatwick
Brest
Belfast
Jersey
Biarritz
Nantes
Barcelona
Ibiza
La Rochelle
Bordeaux
Inverness
Aberdeen
Glasgow
Liverpool
Newcastle
Majorca
Edinburgh
Isle of Man Leeds Bradford NEW
Manchester
Doncaster
Sheffi eld
Paris CDG
Paris Orly
FRANCE
Toulouse Montpellier
Menorca
Amsterdam
BELGIUM
Brussels
Int
Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg
Lyon
Grenoble
Marseille Nice
NETHERLANDS
Düsseldorf
Zürich
Geneva
SWITZERLAND
Corsica
(Ajaccio)
Milan
MXP
Milan LIN
Corsica
(Bastia)
Olbia
Cagliari

Hamburg
Dortmund
Cologne/
Bonn
GERMANY
Munich
ITALY
Pisa
DENMARK
Venice
Berlin
NEW
Dresden
SWEDEN
Gothenburg
Copenhagen
CZECH REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA
Innsbruck
SLOVENIA NEW
Ljubljana
Zagreb
CROATIA
POLAND
Prague Krakow
Salzburg
Rome
Ciampino
Rome
Fiumicino
Palermo
Malta
Vienna
Split
Naples
Lamezia
Catania
Stockholm
Dubrovnik
Bari
Brindisi
Budapest
HUNGARY
Corfu
Zante
KOSOVO
Helsinki
Pristina
GREECE
FINLAND
Tallinn
ESTONIA
Sofi a
Thessaloniki
ROMANIA
BULGARIA
Bucharest
Athens
Mykonos
Kos
Bodrum Antalya
Dalaman
Santorini Rhodes
Crete
(Chania)
Crete (Heraklion)
Istanbul
EGYPT
TURKEY
DESTINATION GUIDES | A–Z
Plan your next trip
with easyJet.com, for
all your travel needs
PLANNING AHEAD
Insurance easyJet travel
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Travel money Order your foreign
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holiday homes to choose from.
GETTING TO / FROM THE AIRPORT
Car rental Europcar offers
exclusive discounts and Lowest
Price Guarantee. Book online or visit
the Europcar desk on arrival.
Airport transfers Pre-book to
take advantage of our discounted
rates and get to your destination
without any queuing or waiting.
Parking Pre-book and save
up to 60% with Holiday Extras.
Book at easyJet.com
Cyprus
(Paphos)
Hurghada
Luxor
Cyprus
(Larnaca)
Tel Aviv
ISRAEL
Sharm
El Sheikh
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 107

Grenoble Graduate School of Business Productions present
Master of Business Administration
Accreditations
Full-time/Part-time/Global Executive
www.ggsb.com
Concept & Design : Philippe Tur, turphilippe@me.com - Illustration : Jérôme Guerry

SINCE
1996
Aberdeen
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
London (LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £15.
Up to three buses
an hour go to the
city centre till 11.39pm
Monday–Saturday and
till 9.49pm on Sunday.
Tickets: from £1.40.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Rocksalt
& Snails (40 St Swithin
Street, tel: 01224 200
012) This well-stocked
delicatessen is the
perfect place for a quick
lunch. The gourmet
fi lled paninis and hearty
fresh soups are some
of the best in the city.
EXCLUSIVE The
Courtyard (1 Alford
Lane, tel: 01224 589
109) The latest addition
to Aberdeen’s dining
scene, The Courtyard
is situated in the West
End of the city and
offers a unique dining
experience. Let head
chef Chris Tonner treat
you to a three-course
meal of pure indulgence.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Musa
(33 Exchange Street,
tel: 01224 571 771)
This quirky little gallery
and live music venue
is housed in a former
church turned bananaripening
warehouse.
Enjoy a cocktail while
taking in an exhibition.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For stylish shoes,
boots and handbags by
cutting-edge designers
be sure to pay a visit
to Image Shoes (36A
Thistle Street).
SEE During Jools
Holland’s Autumn Tour
he will be joined for
the fi rst time by Alison
Moyet. The legendary
Ruby Turner and soulful
Louise Marshall will
also be joining his tour.
On 18 November
(tel: 01224 824 824).
NO WAY!
The fi rst stern trawler,
“Fairtry”, was built in
Aberdeen in 1954.
Beverley Tricker
LATE & LIVELY
Paramount
(21–25 Bon Accord
Street) This newly
refurbished nightspot
is the place to be.
Paramount is a fi rm
favourite with locals,
setting the mood for
a great night out.
SINCE
2009
Agadir
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
London (LGW), Lyon,
Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs MAD200.
Route 22 goes to
Inezgane. Tickets:
MAD4. From there take
a bus to Agadir.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Brahim’s
(23–24 Porte du Port)
For ultra-fresh fi sh and
a true Moroccan eating
experience, head to this
small fi sh stall by the
entrance to the port.
You may have to ask for
directions to fi nd it, but
it’s well worth the effort.
EXCLUSIVE
Gandhara (Coralia
Club La Kasbah,
Boulevard 20 du Août,
tel: 0528 840 136)
The chefs here have
cleverly combined the
fl avours and fragrances
of India, Thailand, China
and Vietnam to create
a range of delicious
signature dishes.
One of Morocco’s
best restaurants.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEYJour et
Nuit (Avenue Tawada,
tel: 0528 822 347) You
will surely pass by this
popular restaurant which
stretches for several
hundred metres along
the seafront. Whether
you’re in the mood for
coffee, ice cream or an
alcoholic drink, Jour et
Nuit caters for all.
LATE & LIVELY
Dreams Nightclub
(8 Bis Boulevard Tawada,
tel: 0528 828 331)
Artistically redesigned
with a sliding roof, the
new terrace provides
a cool ambience for hot
Moroccan nights. Dance
under the stars till 5am
to house, R’n’B, Latino
and Moroccan music.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Kasbat
Souss is a shopping and
sightseeing experience.
See local craftsmen
at work and then buy
their wares (Bensergao,
Route Principle Km5,
kasbatsouss.com).
GO The Jardin de Olhão
features a selection of
beautiful plants and
trees. Opened to mark
the twinning of Agadir
with the Portuguese
town of Olhao, this is
a pretty place to
escape to (Avenue du
President Kennedy).
NO WAY!
In Morocco, the art
of henna tattooing is
regarded as a form of
giving blessings. The
intricate designs are
applied for luck as well
as beauty.
Anne Imisliou
DESTINATION GUIDES | 109
SINCE
1999
Alicante
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Glasgow, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN, STN),
Manchester, Newcastle
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
A local taxi costs
€15–€20.
A direct service
to Benidorm runs
hourly. Tickets: €8.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Kosta!
(Carretera Moraira-
Calpe 1.5km, tel: 96 649
2231) Kosta! gets its
exclamation mark from
the spectacular sea
views and its delicious
international cuisine and
variety of set menus.
Closed on Tuesdays.
EXCLUSIVE Gota
de Mar (2 Calle La
Murciana, Cabo de la
Nao, Jávea, tel: 96 577
1648) Inside this elegant
villa, international
cuisine wows the
dedicated clientèle.
Good selections from
the menu include lobster
ravioli, grilled scallops
with endives, and steak
Rossini, to be enjoyed
over views of the sea.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar La
Taverna (Palma de
Gandía) Come here to
enjoy a glass of wine
among friendly locals.
If you are a smoker, this
is one of the few bars
where you can enjoy
a cigarette inside.
LATE & LIVELY
Café de Teatro
(Albir) A small venue
offering an intimate
club atmosphere for
late-night jam sessions.
Wednesday nights
usually see a local band
playing late into the
night. Entrance is free
but the bands have to
be paid, so chip in by
buying plenty of drinks.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Take a trip to
Alicante City and cruise
the Gran Via, which
mimics Paris with its
swish boutiques and
leatherware shops.
Abundant cafés allow
the shopper a pause.
SEE St James is the
patron saint of many
towns and villages
and his patronage is
celebrated in various
locations throughout the
month. The Old Quarter
of Alicante celebrates its
own Fiesta de la Carxofa
– artichoke – in the third
week of November, too.
NO WAY!
Spain’s birth rate is the
lowest in Europe with
only 9.72 births per
1,000 of the population
registered in 2009.
Danny Collins

110 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Almería
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €13.
Route 20 goes
to the centre.
Tickets: €0.70.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Torres
Bermejas Restaurante
Bar (25 Avenida de la
Estación, tel: 950 222
773) Here the chef
offers a wide range of
tapas, specialising in
cured ham. The tuckedaway
venue also makes
very tasty and very
fattening churros – hot
doughnuts which are
dipped in chocolate –
delicious on a chilly day!
EXCLUSIVE La
Colmena (Avenida
Mediterráneo, Roquetas
de Mar, tel: 950 335
280) A traditional
Mediterranean
restaurant which serves
great fresh fi sh from the
local fl eet in Roquetas.
It also has meat such
as Iberian pork seared
on the barbecue.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Taberna
Don Alejandro
(2 Calle Valero Rivera)
Top tavern for a spot of
tapas and an early drink.
It serves Alhambra lager
and a classy Ribera wine
– both local classics.
LATE & LIVELY
Amargo Sound Café
(8 Plaza Marques de
Heredía, tel: 950 856
306) This city-centre bar
is popular for a late-night
drink. It’s packed out
at the weekends with a
young crowd dancing to
the latest tunes.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Calle de Las
Tiendas in the heart of
the Old Town houses
a variety of small,
independent stores
which are particularly
good for picking up lastminute
presents.
GO Visit some of the
magnifi cent, Moorish
areas of Almería. The
red-brick, 12th-century
fortress – the Alcazaba
– on the edge of the city
centre, the views from
the walls over the city
are stunning. Closer
to the centre are the
Aljibes de Jayran –
huge water tanks.
NO WAY!
A huge variety of fi sh
are caught along
Almería’s coastline, but
it is impossible to fi nd
translations for all of
them. Be brave when
dining out in the city’s
restaurants, even if you
don’t know what fi sh
you’re eating, you can
guarantee it will be tasty!
Dave Jones
Amsterdam
Netherlands
DIALLING CODE +31
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Barcelona, Basel-
Mulhouse, Belfast (BFS),
Berlin, Bristol, Doncaster
Sheffi eld, Edinburgh,
Geneva, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN, STN),
Madrid, Manchester,
Milan (MXP), Prague,
Rome (FCO), Split
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
by Buddha-Bar Paris
SINCE
1996
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €40.
Trains head to
Centraal station.
Tickets: €3.80 single;
€6.40 same-day return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Raan
Phad Thai (18
Kloveniersburgwal, tel:
020 420 0665) It’s not
going to win any prizes
for decadent dining, but
that’s half the charm of
this ramshackle open
Thai kitchen situated on
one of the Old Centre’s
busiest canals. Enquire
about the daily special
(usually something
involving chicken) or just
ask to peer into the everboiling
stockpots. The
cheerful staff are a joy.
UP TO €30
Wolvenstraat 23
(23 Wolvenstraat,
tel: 020 320 0843)
Nestled on one of the
most charming of the
Jordaan’s famous
Nine Streets, this barcome-café
is so good it
doesn’t need a name.
It’s a laidback little place
where you can pull up a
pew, peruse the menu of
fi lling noodle dishes and
watch the world go by.
UP TO €50 Bloemers
(70 Hemonystraat, tel:
020 400 4024) If you’re
looking for the epitome
of Amsterdam cornerbar
hospitality, Bloemers
is the place for you.
With wood panelling, a
dangerously fi ne array of
cocktails, and a menu of
substantial gastropubstyle
food (try the duck
breast with mushroom
bitterballen), it’s the
perfect remedy for any
winter blues.
EXCLUSIVE
Yamazato (Okura Hotel,
333 Ferdinand Bolstraat,
tel: 020 678 8351) The
only Michelin-starred
traditional Japanese
restaurant in Europe,
Yamazato’s serene,
peaceful atmosphere
will have you wanting to
come back for more.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Cozy Bar (8
Sint Jacobsstraat) With
just a few tables and a
fi replace, this new bar
found down a side street
near Centraal Station
really lives up to its
name. Owner Anthony is
keeping it in the
family, too, promising
regular live music
performances from his
guitar-playing dad.
LIVE MUSIC
Winston Kingdom
(129 Warmoesstraat,
tel: 020 623 1380) The
motto of this Red Light
District hotel-comemusic
venue is “Party
hard, sleep easy” and
it’s easy to see why. The
crammed schedule of
club nights, cabaret
performances and talent
shows is enough to keep
anyone’s head spinning.
LATE & LIVELY
Café Brecht (157
Weteringschans, tel:
020 627 2211) Fancy
a beer that tastes like
bacon? Thought not,
but this newest addition
to Amsterdam’s bar
scene has a lot to offer
besides. Stationed in
the former premises of
DJ café Twstd, the plan
was to recreate a “Berlin
living room vibe”.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Far too cool
to bother with vowels,
SPRMRKT is the go-to
PARK PLAZA
VONDELPARK
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
The modern hotel
is located in the city
centre, offering views
of Amsterdam’s
famous Vondelpark, it’s
the perfect location.
From €85. Book at
hotels.easyJet.com
destination for the
most uncompromising
threads from around
the world, but also
specialises in designer
labels from Belgium
and Japan. The store is
a must-see destination,
even if you’re just
shopping for inspiration
(191 Rozengracht).
SEE Running until
the end of the month,
the Rijksmuseum has
a special exhibition
exploring the mysterious
relationship between
Rembrandt and the
man in one of his most
famous portraits, Jan
Six. Were they friends,
or something more
than that? You decide
(rijksmuseum.nl).
GO The area around
the Leidseplein is where
Amsterdam’s main
theatrical venues are
based. November sees
the opening of a grand
new venue, the Niewe
Delamar Theater, which
will be playing host to
a production of classic
musical La Cage Aux
Folles (delamar.nl).
ESCAPE The
second-largest city in
the province of Utrecht,
Amersfoot has a
beautifully preserved
medieval centre. The
place promises to be
even more atmospheric
than usual this winter,
as it plays host to the
ShadowDance festival
(festival.agenda-uitgaan.
nl/voorstellingen).
NO WAY!
It can take up to 10
years to obtain a parking
permit in Amsterdam.
Mark Smith
Experience the eatertainment
hot-spot in Geneva
Place Neuve | Rue J.-Fr. Bartholoni, 10
T. +41 (0)22 307 10 00 | LittleBuddhaGeneva.com

Happy birthday
to you, happy birthday
dear easyJet
Congratulations to all the people
and customers of easyJet

112 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Asturias
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Geneva,
London (STN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2005
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi to Oviedo
costs about €53, Gijón
€45 and Avilés €23.
The Express bus
runs hourly from
6am–10pm to Oviedo
and Gijón. Tickets:
€6.15. Buses to Avilés
cost €1.30 (alsa.es).
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Llagar La
Morena (Alto de Viella,
tel: 985 263 944) Known
only to locals, this cider
bar serves excellent
stuffed baby squid and
other tapas dishes. Wash
it all down with cider
made on the premises.
EXCLUSIVE Casa
Arturo (1 Plaza de San
Miguel, tel: 985 229 488)
Asturian fi sh is truly
excellent but if you’re
pining for a good steak,
this asador (steak house)
will not disappoint. Try
the meat cooked over a
hot stone, accompanied
by a fi ne red wine.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar Tienda
Mari Luz (2 Gonzalez
Besada) This small,
memorabilia-packed
wine bar is a popular
place to stop off for
a pre-dinner drink.
LATE & LIVELY
Buddha (23 Marques
de San Esteban, Gijón)
A cool crowd calls in to
this funky venue after
a late supper. The music
is a mix of Spanish and
international pop.
THIS MONTH
SHOP More than
a bread shop,
Santumedé’s shelves
groan with goodies
including freshly baked
empanadas (pasties) of
octopus, cod or cockles
(14 Jovellanos, Oviedo).
SEE Don’t miss the
Amagüestu Festival,
held during the second
and third weekends of
November. Chestnuts
are roasted in the open
air, served with cidra
dulce (sweet cider).
Karen Thomas
NO WAY!
Gijón boasts the
largest building in
Spain. Its Universidad
Laboral claims to be
two-and-a-half times
larger than Philip II’s
vast and imposing
monasterial palace El
Escorial, near Madrid.
Athens
Greece
DIALLING CODE +30
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, London
(LGW), Manchester,
Milan (MXP), Paris
(ORY), Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1998
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
The E95 express
bus goes to the
centre. Tickets: €3.20.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Kyr
Kostas (Agia Irene
Square, Monastiraki)
This place is rumoured
to serve the best and
most authentic souvlaki
in Athens but you
have to get there early
because Kyr Kostas
shuts up shop by 4pm.
EXCLUSIVE Elaias Gi
(4 Olympionikon Street,
Politia, tel: 210 620
0005) This ultra-smart
restaurant, with its
emphasis on traditional
Greek cooking and its
spectacular views of
Athens, is now offering
a set menu for €35.
Included are 15 different
dishes, and a choice of
seven main courses.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Santa
Botella (115A Panormou
Street, Ambelokipi, tel:
210 698 1032) A funky
street bar situated right
in the middle of a row
of bars and clubs at the
lower end of Panormou.
LATE & LIVELY
Shisha (Peace and
Friendship Stadium,
Paleo Faliro, tel: 210 483
4190) An open-air club
by the sea. The music is
up-beat and mainstream
and there’s live Greek
music on Sundays.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For serious
shopping therapy in
Athens there is only
one solution that really
hits the spot: Kolonaki.
Browse this road for all
the must-have fashion
items, including original
Greek and foreign
designer labels.
SEE Don’t miss the
Acropolis Museum’s
fi rst exhibition on the life
of the ancient Athenian
statesman Pericles
and the building of the
Parthenon and the other
amazing buildings on the
Athens Acropolis. Using
ancient artefacts such as
coins, inscriptions and
sculptures, the exhibition
recreates ancient Greece
(newacropolis
museum.gr).
NO WAY!
The current prime
minister of Greece,
George Papandreou,
comes from a long line
of politicians: both his
father and grandfather
were elected PM, too.
Eva Webster
Barcelona
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Amsterdam, Basel-
Mulhouse, Belfast (BFS),
Berlin, Bristol, Doncaster
Sheffi eld, Dortmund,
Geneva, Lisbon, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN,
STN), Lyon, Milan
(MXP), Newcastle
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1996
A local taxi costs
around €30.
The Aerobus
heads to Plaça
Catalunya. Tickets: €5.
Trains service the
Sants Estació.
Tickets: €2.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 El
Tropezón (26 Carrer
de Regomir, tel: 93 310
1864) Neither the décor
of a sit-in kebab joint, nor
the blunt service inspire
much confi dence, but
if it’s great tapas you’re
after, this is your place.
Find it in Barri Gotic.
UP TO €30
La Paradeta (7 Carrer
de Commercial, tel: 93
268 1939) A suitably
nautically themed
interior greets diners at
La Paradeta, a seafood
restaurant in El Born
where clients are invited
to point at their supper
fi rst before it is weighed
and cooked. Sensational
mussels and prawns are
highly recommended.
UP TO €50 Bestial
(30 Ramón Trias Fargas,
tel: 93 224 0407)
Located beneath Frank
Gehry’s Fish sculpture
at the Port Olimpic,
Bestial occupies a prime
piece of real estate with
views over the indigo
Mediterranean. The
kitchen serves up a
modern mix of Italian
and European cuisine,
while the ambience is
very much along the
lines of the chic bars it
rubs shoulders with.
EXCLUSIVE Drolma
(70 Passeig de Gracia,
tel: 93 496 7710)
Drolma, the restaurant
of the Hotel Majestic
boasts one Michelin star
and some of the best
Catalan cuisine in town.
Rare combinations, such
as sea bass with bacon,
snow peas and truffl e
vinaigrette, help justify
the special prices.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Le Journal
(36 Carrer de Francisco
Giner) An interior fi lled
with old newspaper
prints on the walls,
shabby furnishings and
smoke: Le Journal has all
the hallmarks of a classic
bohemian dive bar.
During the day students
pass the time over
coffee; by night cocktails
are the drink of choice.
LIVE MUSIC
El Paraigua (2 Pas
de l’Esenyança,

114 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Barcelona
Spain
tel: 93 302 1131)
A touristy restaurant
by day, on Friday and
Saturday nights the
stone cellars of El
Paraigua become the
stage for some excellent
acoustic concerts
featuring pop, funk, soul
and samba music.
LATE & LIVELY Moog
(3 Arc del Teatre, tel:
93 301 7282) A tiny
space, Moog is arguably
the best techno club
in the Old Town and a
favourite with fun-loving
backpackers. Guest DJs
from Berlin often play
on Wednesdays.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The people
of Barcelona love few
things more than a fancy
dress occasion. If you’ve
got an invite to a ball or
carnival then drop by
fi rst to Arlequí Mascares,
where an array of cool
and kitsch masks are
ready to give you an air
of mystery (7 Carrer
de Princesa).
SEE Come November
and, even in Barcelona,
beach weather is a thing
of the past and it’s time
to dally with culture once
more. L’Alternativa Film
Festival takes place from
13–21 November in the
CCCB art centre and
provides a platform for
homegrown fi lm-makers
to showcase their stuff
(alternativa.cccb.org).
GO Sants district is
most famous for its train
station but, despite its
lack of major attractions,
offers a nice change of
pace from more touristic
zones. Highlights include
Mercat de Sants, an
example of Modernista
architecture, and the
area around Riego street,
where tapas bars hum
with chattering mates
and clattering plates.
ESCAPE The sleepy
coastal resort of Calafell
is an ideal place to
combine a brisk seaside
stroll with exploring
Catalonia’s history. The
town’s part-original,
part-restored Iberian
fortifi ed village recounts
how these surprisingly
sophisticated tribesfolk
lived in pre-Roman times
(ciutadellaiberica.com).
NO WAY!
Local authorities
were not pleased with
Shakira’s recent antics.
She chose to shoot the
video for her new song
Loca in the city without
asking permission
and may face fi nes for
dancing in a fountain.
Duncan Rhodes/
Barcelona-life.com
HESPERIA
SANT JUST
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
At the end of Diagonal
Avenue, the hotel
offers you all the
essentials for a relaxed
and comfortable stay.
Breakfast included.
From €100, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Bari
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
Route 16 goes
to the centre.
Tickets: €0.77.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Bar
Centro (Corso Vittorio
Emanuele) This central
bar has a fantastic
selection of pastries,
cakes and ice cream. It’s
the perfect place from
which to plan a day
exploring the delightful
town of Alberobello.
EXCLUSIVE Donna
Gina (5–9 Via Cala
Porto, tel: 080 424
0914) Together with the
idyllic views, you can fi nd
some of the fi nest fi sh
recipes for many miles
around at Donna Gina.
The food is exceptional
and the wine list
perfectly complements
the cuisine.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Kamera Kafé (Piazza
Mercantile) A good,
relaxed spot to kick
off the evening with
a fantastic central
location on the
Piazza Mercantile.
LATE & LIVELY
Autodrom Club
(Contrada Lamandia,
Monopoli) The
Autodrom Club always
has good events on.
Whether you’re a fan
of live music, dance
and cabaret acts, or
prefer a club night
with top DJs, this is
the place to come
to be entertained.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Between the
end of summer and the
build up to Christmas,
many sensible
shopkeepers have
some juicy sales on to
attract customers. As a
result, the high streets
are the place to shop
throughout November.
SEE The Feast of
Sant Trifone, on
14 November, is a
traditional celebration
featuring a horseback
ride by the young boys
of the town, who dress
up as angels and sit
atop heavily decorated
horses. Then, when
dusk falls, the big guns
come out and there are
elaborate fi reworks and
bands playing.
NO WAY!
Primitivo wine gets its
name from a church
priest from Puglia who
fi rst noticed a grape
variety that is ready to
harvest in August, well
before other varieties.
Max Keep
Basel/
Mulhouse/
Freiburg
Switzerland
DIALLING CODE +41
CURRENCY CHF
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Barcelona,
Berlin, Bordeaux, Cagliari,
Copenhagen, Corsica
(Ajaccio), Dresden,
Düsseldorf, Edinburgh,
Gran Canaria, Hamburg,
Istanbul, Lisbon, London
(LGW), Madrid, Málaga,
Marrakech, Nantes,
Naples, Nice, Olbia,
Rome (FCO), Porto,
Pristina, Split, Tel Aviv,
Thessaloniki, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
The fare to Basel
is CHF 40 and
Mulhouse €40.
Route 50 takes you
to Basel’s main
train station. Tickets:
CHF3.80. In France,
shuttles go to the station
in Saint-Louis for trains
to Mulhouse. Tickets: €1.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Namamen
Japanese Ramenbar
(1 Steinenberg, tel: 06
1271 8068) This sleek
restaurant next to the
theatre serves fi lling
Japanese soups that
are just the thing to
warm you up on a cold
November day. Maybe
not ideal for a romantic
date: they offer bibs
for a reason!
UP TO €30 Wistub
Brenner (1 Rue Turenne,
Colmar, tel: 03 8941
4233) Authentic Alsatian
cuisine is on offer here,
from tripes riesling to
escargot (snails) and
Munster cheese. There’s
also a great selection
of local wines.
UP TO €50 Der Vierte
König (20 Blumenrain,
tel: 06 1261 5442)
Next door to Basel’s
luxurious Drei Könige
(Three Kings) hotel,
Der Vierte König (The
Fourth King) offers
mid-priced cuisine at
its best. With a rustic
but stylish interior, an
excellent menu, and
the best wine list of any
Basel restaurant
in its class, this is
a local highlight.
EXCLUSIVE La
Maison des Têtes (19
Rue des Têtes, Colmar,
tel: 03 8924 4343) This
elegant restaurant,
housed in a spectacular
17th-century house,
is one of Colmar’s
fi nest, serving Alsatian
specialities such as
homemade foie gras
and roasted duck.
Find it next to the
Unterlinden Museum,
which is worth popping
in to fi rst to work up
a bit of an appetite.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Kunsthallen Bar
(7 Steinenberg,
tel: 06 1272 4233)

Located one fl oor up
in the Kunsthalle, this
spacious designer bar
with lovely high ceilings
is a great place to meet
for cocktails before
or after the theatre.
There’s also a bar in
the ground-level
courtyard for warm
autumn evenings.
LIVE MUSIC Cargo
Bar (46 St Johanns-
Rheinweg, tel: 06 1321
0072) The tiny Cargo
Bar on the Rhine hosts
many of the city’s best
up-and-coming jazz and
rock bands three or four
nights a week. Beat the
crowds and get there
early, ensuring yourself
a spot by the window,
and a great view of the
river as it drifts by.
LATE & LIVELY
Club 1900 (3 Rue des
Halles, Mulhouse, tel:
03 8946 1100) Club
1900 is the place for
those who believe
there’s too much rap
music interfering with
French music these
days. Get ready for rock,
disco and funk, the way
it used to be.
THIS MONTH
SHOP If you’ve got a
sweet tooth, you may
wish to steer well clear
of Confi serie Sprüngli,
which has been
serving up some of
Switzerland’s best-loved
sugary creations since
1836 (14 Steinenberg).
SEE Cité de
L’Automobile in
Mulhouse is home
to the Schlumpf
Collection, which is,
with 520 vehicles, the
largest car museum in
YOU’RE
the world. Come and
see the great range
of antique and luxury
cars, including the
world’s largest
collection of Bugatti
motors (collectionschlumpf.com).
GO Just 10 minutes
across the border
from Basel, Weil am
Rhein is a pretty little
German town. Come
to experience its
interesting combination
of cultures, thanks to
its position, practically
on the border of
France, Switzerland
and Germany. The
Vitra Design Museum
has really put this town
on the map, so don’t
miss out on a tour
while you’re here.
Look out for great
architectural exhibits
from the likes of Zaha
Hadid and many others
(design-museum.de).
ESCAPE If you
absolutely need to hit
the slopes early in the
year (and many do),
the most reliable snow
is to be found on the
glacier at Zermatt,
just over two hours
from Basel. Slopes
generally open in
the last few weeks of
November, depending
on conditions.
NO WAY!
While the Swiss
continue to be as
wealthy as just about
any other people on
earth, surprisingly,
they have the lowest
rate of home ownership
in western Europe,
at only 34%.
Richard Harvell
Belfast
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Barcelona,
Bristol, Edinburgh, Faro,
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,
Krakow, Liverpool, London
(LGW, LTN), Málaga,
Malta, Newcastle, Majorca,
Nice, Paris (CDG), Prague
FROM THE
AIRPORT
BELFAST INT.
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £25.
Translink run an
Airbus service to
the centre. Tickets: £7
single; £10 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
CITY AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1998
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £8.
Translink runs an
Airbus service to
the city centre. Tickets:
£2 single; £3 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Little
Wing (10 Ann Street,
tel: 028 9024 7000)
Situated on the übertrendy
Lisburn Road, this
funky and informal pizza
restaurant is perfect
for a quick, thin-based
pizza, with a wide range
of toppings available. It’s
also close to the Chelsea
Wine Bar, which is a
great spot for a pre- or
post-dinner drink.
UP TO €30 Rhubarb
(2 Little Victoria Street,
tel: 028 9020 0158)
This tiny restaurant is
something of a hidden
gem. The food – a
mixture of classic British
and French – is delicious
and very good value.
It’s only open in the
evenings at weekends
and you may have to
book. It doesn’t have
a licence but you can
bring your own wine.
UP TO €50 The
Welcome (Stranmillis
Road, tel: 028 9038
1359) Forget all the
clichés about Chinese
restaurants having
slightly naff décor.
Established in 1973,
this stylish Chinese
restaurant has won
numerous awards and
serves fantastic food.
Located in the leafy
suburb of Stranmillis.
EXCLUSIVE Beatrice
Kennedy (44 University
Road, tel: 028 9020
2290) This brilliant little
restaurant is situated
yards away from
Queen’s University’s
Lanyon Building, so it
tends to attract a lot of
academics. Housed in a
classic Belfast Victorian
terrace, this place is well
worth a visit.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY White’s
Tavern (2–4 Winecellar
Entry, tel: 028 9024
ON TRACK FEEL THE EXCITEMENT
DRUMBO PARK
FOR A GREAT
NIGHT OUT
PRICES FROM £10
FINE DINING WITH A VIEW
RESTAURANT PACKAGES FROM £29.95
DESTINATION GUIDES | 115
3080) This historic bar
is a great place for a
contemplative drink.
Call in for a pint of the
black stuff (Guinness)
and if you’re lucky,
you might catch some
live traditional Irish
music, too.
LIVE MUSIC The
Empire (42 Botanic
Avenue, tel: 028 9032
8110) The Empire has
live music on two fl oors.
The upper fl oor is the
larger and tends to play
host to indie bands
and tribute acts. It also
has a terrifi c comedy
night every Tuesday.
Downstairs caters
mainly for acoustic acts.
LATE & LIVELY
Ollie’s at the
Merchant (16 Skipper
Street, tel: 028 9023
4888) Housed in the
basement of the swanky
Merchant Hotel, this
cavernous nightclub is
a great destination for
a big night on the town.
It has lots of nooks and
crannies to get lost in
and it has also recently
HILLSBOROUGH
ESCAPE Around
16km from Belfast,
but a different
world away. There
are lots of bars and
boutiques. After a
walk along the bright
terrace houses, stroll
around the centre.
CALL NOW TO BOOK
028 9061 0070
www.drumbopark.com
57 BALLYSKEAGH RD,
LAMBEG,
LISBURN
had a refurb, making
its interiors almost as
bling as its clientèle.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Steensons
Ltd shop specialises in
high-quality jewellery
handmade in Northern
Ireland. The owners, Bill
and Christina Steenson,
design their own pieces,
but their outlet also
stocks work by many
other leading designers
(Bedford Street, tel:
028 9024 8269).
SEE The Belfast Music
Tour is a bus ride that
leaves from the Ulster
Hall every Saturday
and takes passengers
on a tour of Belfast’s
rich musical heritage.
Among those artists
featured are Van
Morrison, Stiff Little
Fingers and Snow Patrol
(belfastmusic.org).
GO Over the last
decade the historic
Cathedral Quarter has
become the nightlife
centre of the city. There
are dozens of great
bars and restaurants
to eat and drink in.
Wander around by day
and take in some of the
cultural sights, then
pop in to the Duke of
York for a pint, or Nick’s
Warehouse for food.
NO WAY!
Although most people
will assume that he
is the quintessential
Australian, the actor
Sam Neill was actually
born in the provincial
town of Omagh in
county Tyrone.
Chris Sherry/
Ulster Tatler

116 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Berlin
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Athens, Barcelona,
Basel-Mulhouse, Bristol,
Brussels, Budapest,
Cagliari, Copenhagen,
Corfu, Crete (Heraklion),
Dubrovnik, Geneva,
Glasgow, Gothenburg,
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN), Lyon,
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,
Milan (MXP), Naples,
Nice, Olbia, Paris (ORY),
Pisa, Rome (CIA), Split,
Thessaloniki, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
Express route
SXF1 runs from
Terminal A to Berlin
Südkreuz. Tickets: €6.
The Regional
Express train
goes to the city.
Tickets: €2.80.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Primo Maggio (10
Graefestrasse, tel: 030
6165 0861) Excellent
little Italian café named
after Berlin’s famous
May Day demonstrations
THE MOST FAMOUS
IRISH PUB IN BERLIN
SINCE
2004
that sometimes get a
little rowdy. Homemade
focaccia and all sorts of
pasta, plus some really
great coffees.
UP TO €30 Buddha
Republic (88
Knesebeckstrasse,
tel: 030 3116 4204)
Indian restaurants
in Berlin are by and
large second-rate.
Here’s the exception
to the rule. This new
opening cooks excellent
tandoori specialities in
an authentic tandoori
oven – with the correct
spices. It also serves a
host of delicious curries.
UP TO €50 Zosimo
(42 Fasanenstrasse, tel:
030 3937 1523) This
cosy, upscale eatery
launched in the spring
by a pair of German
connoisseurs, serves
up a mouthwatering,
contemporary take on
Sicilian cuisine made
with a huge amount
of love, creativity
and attention. The
cannelloni is masterful:
dark pasta shells fi lled
with mussels, ricotta
and potatoes, presented
on a bed of sashimi tuna
tartare. For dessert, the
superbly simple granita
is heavenly.
EXCLUSIVE Paris
Moskau (141 Alt-Moabit,
Tiergarten, tel: 030 394
2081) Hidden in a small,
half-timbered house in
Tiergarten Park, near
the massive new central
station. This elegant yet
unpretentious treasure
boasts a combination of
hearty central European
cooking and haute
cuisine, plus a bulging
list of 300 wines.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Gorki Park
(25 Weinbergsweg,
Mitte, tel: 030 448 7286)
One of the fi rst café-bars
in east Berlin to embrace
post-Soviet kitsch. Swig
some of their very own
Moskva beer with a cup
of bortsch.
LATE & LIVELY
Kleine Reise
(8 Spreewaldplatz) A
bathhouse-turned-bar
by day, basementnightclub
by night. The
club aims to be a haven
for electronic music
lovers looking for a
relaxed and fun-loving
party atmosphere.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Berlin is the
undisputed capital
of electronic music,
so it’s no surprise
that it’s home to one
of the most unusual
instrument shops,
Schneider’s Buero
specialises in every sort
of analague electronic
instrument around,
from synths to e-drums
to effect pedals.
There’s even a movie
about the store, Totally
Wired (135A Skalitzer
Strasse, Kreuzberg,
schneidersbuero.de).
SEE Celebrating
20 years of German
unity, the German
Historical Museum
has put on a special
exhibition. It takes
visitors on a journey
from the dramatic year
following the collapse
of the Berlin Wall, to the
unifi cation of east and
west Germany in 1990
(2 Unter den Linden,
Mitte, dhm.de).
GO Potsdamer Platz,
the new centre of
Berlin that sprouted
up in the former Berlin
Wall “death strip” is
packed with culture and
entertainment for every
taste, from Legoland
to the Film Museum.
Of course, the area is
packed with shops and
restaurants, too.
ESCAPE Potsdam,
about a 30-minute train
trip from Berlin, is a gem
of hundreds of years of
Prussian architecture.
The centrepiece is the
Sanssouci summer
palace and its gardens,
while the charming Old
Town is perfect for a
stroll. Stop for a coffee
and cake in one of
the many cafés
before leaving.
NO WAY!
During the World
Wars air raid shelters,
bunkers, and even
an aircraft factory
lay underneath
Berlin’s streets.
exberliner.com
LIVE MUSIC
Kaffee Burger (60
Torstrasse) This
famous venue hasn’t
changed much since
the communist era,
hosting intimate
concerts most nights
and morphing into
a club after midnight.
Biarritz
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Lyon, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €13.
The STAB runs
hourly till 7.30pm.
Tickets: €1.20.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Le Clos
Basque (12 Rue Louis
Barthou, tel: 05 5924
2496) Traditional
Basque cooking made
from local produce.
Eat in a relaxed
atmosphere with tasty
lunchtime menus and
a good choice of à la
carte evening meals.
EXCLUSIVE La
Fleur de Sol (5 Avenue
de la Forêt, tel: 05 5963
8866) La Fleur de
Sol is tucked away in a
pine forest in the village
of Anglet, just outside
Biarritz. The big open
fi replace makes for
a cosy atmosphere.
The dining area is
small, so book
ahead to avoid
disappointment.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Pâtisserie
Miremont (1 Place
Clemenceau, tel: 05
5924 0138) An elegant
teashop overlooking the
ocean, come here for
the closest you’ll get to
a cream tea while you’re
away. Flavoured teas,
pastries and delicious
hand-crafted caramels
and chocolates are
all on offer.
LATE & LIVELY Disco
Le Caveau (4 Place
Gambetta, tel: 05 5924
1617) One of the most
popular nightspots in
Biarritz. Party all night
long to techno sounds
among a trendy crowd
and friendly bar staff.
THIS MONTH
SHOP At Mille et Un
Fromages you’ll fi nd an
impressive assortment
of beautiful Basque
wines and cheeses. Try
a bottle of Bost Mendi,
a delightful red liqueur
made from prunes
(2 Avenue Victor Hugo).
GO The wonderful
Biarritz lighthouse,
dating back to 1831,
offers a great spot to
blow the cobwebs away
on a chilly November
day. It towers 73m above
the sea and the views
from the top of the 248
steps are breathtaking.
NO WAY!
The Basque language
(Euskera) has no swear
words. This doesn’t
mean that Basque
speakers don’t swear –
they just borrow insults
from French, Spanish or
even English!
Steve Bilsborough

Avec
La Bretagne
à partir de 28 *
1 VOL QUOTIDIEN PARIS - BREST
4 VOLS PAR SEMAINE LYON - BREST
* ttc l’aller simple, tarifs soumis à conditions sous réserve de disponibilités.
www.brest.aeroport.fr
“Berlin says willkommen
as CABARET comes home”
The Daily Telegraph
THE MUSICAL
nouveau
11. 11. 2010 – 02. 01. 2011
Tickets +49. 30. 39 06 65 50
www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de
TIPI AM KANZLERAMT // Große Querallee // 10557 Berlin
Looking for the favourite
hotel in the world?
»It‘s my favourite
hotel in the world.«
Rupert Everett, 2008
Schlüterstraße 45 – corner Kurfürstendamm
10707 Berlin Fon + 49 30 - 881 5001
www.bogota.de
Single Room* from 41 €
Double Room* from 32 € p.p.
* breakfast included

118 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Bilbao
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Ibiza, London
(STN), Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1999
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €28.
Buses go to the
city every 30
minutes. Tickets: €1.25.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Colmado
Ibérico (20 Alameda
Urquijo, tel: 94 443
6001) A restaurant,
bakery, cake shop, wine
store and delicatessen
all in one. The restaurant
serves fantastic homecooked
meals.
EXCLUSIVE
Marisquería
Rimbombin (48
Hurtado de Amézaga,
tel: 94 441 0192) One of
the city’s most popular
seafood restaurants,
specialising in locally
caught fi sh and shellfi sh.
It gets busy at weekends,
so book a table.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY El Placer de
Guadalupe (6 Telesforo
Aranzadi, tel: 94 421
2303) A South American
bar with lots of music,
dancing and a friendly
atmosphere. Drop by for
a quiet drink or join in
with the dancing.
LATE & LIVELY
Palladium (11 Calle
Iparraguirre, tel: 94
422 3015) A lively club
near the Plaza Moyua
in the centre of town.
Open all night for music
and dancing with live
concerts on weekends.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Las Siete Calles
(Seven Streets) is a
shopping area in the
heart of the Old Quarter
of the city. Small, familyrun
shops from a bygone
era sell everything from
homemade berets to
exquisite chocolates
and sweets.
NO WAY!
Most people think
that Bilbao is the
capital of the Basque
Country. The capital
is, in fact, Vitoria.
Katherine Bilsborough
PALACIO
EUSKALDUNA
SEE Go and enjoy a
concert at the Palacio
Euskalduna. Every
Thursday and Friday in
November the Bilbao
Symphony Orchestra
are performing
classical masterpieces
(euskalduna.net).
Bordeaux
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Bristol, Geneva, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN),
Lyon, Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2006
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
A bus goes to Gare
St Jean station.
Tickets: €7.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Verretigo
(59 Rue Georges
Bonnac, tel: 05 5788
6923) From the
outside Verretigo may
seem unassuming
but venture in for
an adventurous
menu of fresh,
seasonal delicacies
accompanied by an
excellent wine list.
EXCLUSIVE La
Grand Vigne (Chemin
de Bourran, Martillac)
Situated in the
grounds of Château
Smith-Haut-Lafi tte, a
15-minute drive from
the centre of Bordeaux,
chef Nicolas Masse’s
La Grand Vigne
recently won
a Michelin star for its
excellent cuisine. Menu
highlights include roast
lobster served with
vegetable and dried
fruit tagine.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Utopia
(5 Place Camille
Jullian, tel: 05 5679
3925) Housed in an
art-house cinema that
used to be a church,
the bar at Utopia is
the perfect place to
relax and enjoy the
beautiful surroundings
of the square.
LATE & LIVELY Café
Brun (45 Rue Saint
Remi, tel: 05 5652
2049) A central bar
that boasts welcoming
and friendly staff, Café
Brun frequently has
live musicians
performing, too.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Bordeaux
region isn’t famous
just for its wines...
Head to the Cognac
Only Boutique for a
sample of something
a little stronger to lift
the spirits (18 Jean-
Jacques Rousseau).
SEE If you are a bit
of a history buff and
want to clue yourself
up on the French
Resistance, then be
sure to visit the Centre
Jean Moulin on Place
Jean Moulin.
NO WAY!
Seventy years ago,
during World War II,
the French government
briefl y relocated
to Bordeaux.
Charlie Matthews
Brest
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Lyon, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
NEW FROM
2010
A local taxi costs
around €20.
Buses stop at
Saint Luc and
the city centre. Tickets:
€5 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Il Caffe
(3 Place de la Liberte,
tel: 02 9880 2127) Three
freshly cooked dishes
are whipped up every
day using produce from
the market. There’s a
great bargain menu at
midday, which includes
lots of stir fries and Asian
spices. The restaurant
shuts at 9pm.
EXCLUSIVE L’Armen
(21 Rue de Lyon, tel:
02 9846 2834) The
menu changes every
three weeks, but if you
get the chance, try the
stuffed pigeon with
cabbage and foie gras,
or the lobster, and fi nish
off with the melting
bitter chocolate cake –
delicious. Let the waiter
do the wine selection.
He’s yet to disappoint
even the fussiest
customer in here.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Aux Quatre
Vents (18 Quai de la
Douanne, tel: 02 9844
4284) Shells, ropes,
bare wood: this port bar
is amazingly un-touristy
and the regulars are
real characters. A great
place to listen to tall
tales and watch the
world go by while you
work your way through
the whisky list.
LATE & LIVELY
Baikal Café (54 Rue
de Glasgow, tel: 02
9843 2853) This is a
favourite party place,
especially for students.
The speciality is
fl avoured vodkas (from
caramel to ginger, chilli
and chocolate), and the
prices are reasonable.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Cote Nature
sells organic beauty
products including
soap, shampoo,
essential oils, and
herbal teas, alongside
plenty of helpful advice
from the staff (9 Rue
Boussingault, tel:
02 9844 7463).
SEE The legendary
Jean-Michel Jarre
plays the Parc Penfeld
on 24 November. He
is expected to fi ll this
enormous venue and
put on a great show
(penfeld.com).
NO WAY!
The Rue St Malo was
the only street in Brest
which wasn’t destroyed
during World War II.
Samantha David
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120 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Brindisi
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Geneva,
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Local STP buses
leave every 30
minutes. Tickets: €0.80.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Pescaria
Delfi no (Piazza
Matteotti) This is
actually a fi shmongers
with a restaurant
attached. Try the
frittura, which consists
of tasty morsels of cod,
prawn, calamari and
octopus, all deep fried
in batter and washed
down with lashings
of lemon juice and
white wine. Cheap
and delicious.
EXCLUSIVE Casa
San Giacamo (Via
Bixio Continelli,
Ostuni) This family-run
restaurant is one of
the best in Ostuni.
Wonderful service,
great décor, good wines
and excellent food are
all to be expected.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar
Garden (5 Via Martiri di
Cefalonia) A top-rated
bar for cocktails, great
nibbles and a cool
clientèle. The family-run
bar has a relaxed
atmosphere during the
afternoon that picks up
later in the evening.
LATE & LIVELY XXL
(G Zanardelli, Ostuni,
tel: 0831 338 245) This
bar is always fun and
hosts an eclectic mix
of live music acts. The
food is good and there’s
a wide range of beer
and wine. What more
could you ask for?
THIS MONTH
SHOP For some
unique gifts and tasty
eats, the weekly market
on Thursday morning
in Sant Elia is vast and
teeming with life.
SEE The Agricultural
and Agricultural
Products Fair, at
Palagiano in Taranto,
showcases locally grown
and produced foods,
which are prepared and
offered with plenty of
regional wines. Don’t
miss the competition
for the best mandarin
orange. The winner
receives the coveted
Golden Mandarin Award.
Throughout the last
week of November.
NO WAY!
Puglia is a prolifi c
producer of wine, oil
and pasta. Around 80%
of Italy’s pasta and
80% of the country’s
olive oil comes from
the region.
Max Keep
Bristol
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Barcelona,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bodrum, Bordeaux, Corfu,
Corsica (Bastia), Crete
(Heraklion), Cyprus
(Paphos), Dalaman,
Edinburgh, Faro,
Fuerteventura, Geneva,
Glasgow, Grenoble, Ibiza,
Innsbruck, Inverness,
Krakow, La Rochelle,
Lisbon, Lyon, Madeira,
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,
Marseille, Menorca,
Murcia, Newcastle, Nice,
Olbia, Paris (CDG), Pisa,
Prague, Rome (CIA),
Salzburg, Split, Tenerife,
Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2003
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £25.
The Bristol
International Flyer
stops all over the city.
Tickets: £6–£7 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 The
Undercroft Café (St
Mary Redcliffe Church,
Redcliffe Street, tel:
0117 925 5989) Expect
tranquil and intimate
surroundings, organic
hot drinks, fresh
sandwiches, cakes, as
well as cooked lunches.
UP TO €30 Shore
Café Bar (Narrow Quay,
tel: 0117 923 0333) A
contemporary quayside
café-bar offering
fantastic cocktails and
mouth-watering dishes,
this chic venue is ideal
for a quick business
lunch or an informal
evening bite and a drink.
UP TO €50 Goldbrick
House (67–69 Park
Street, tel: 0117 945
1950) Located on the
popular Park Street and
arranged over several
fl oors, this lavishly
decorated restaurant
offers a sumptuous
dining experience and
European-style menus.
EXCLUSIVE Palm
Court Restaurant
(Bristol Marriott Royal
Hotel, College Green,
tel: 0117 925 5100)
Housed in the city’s
Marriott hotel, this
British, rosette-awarded
restaurant offers elegant
fi ne dining within the
grandeur of the great
hall. Among stone arches
and Victorian skylights,
enjoy cream teas in the
afternoon or a dinner
of rump of lamb, or
fennel and dill-crusted
monkfi sh. Food for the
soul on a cold evening.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Bar Humbug
(89 Whiteladies Road,
Clifton, tel: 0117 904
0061) Bar Humbug has
been holding on to its
outpost on Whiteladies
Road for 15 years now.
Low key and welcoming,
it offers well-sourced
wines and beers and
expertly mixed cocktails.
LIVE MUSIC O2
Academy Bristol
(Frogmore Street, tel:
0117 927 9227) A great
music venue that hosts
club nights and gigs from
a variety of bands. This
month sees Goldfrapp
(9 November), Ellie
Goulding (13th) and
Athlete (26th) taking
to the stage.
LATE & LIVELY Dojo
Bar (16 Park Row, tel:
0117 925 1177) A great
little nightclub with a
thumping sound system
that plays a range of
underground music.
There’s a nice outdoor
covered area for cooling
off after a bit of dancing.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Mall at
Cribbs Causeway offers
all that is best about
high-street shopping
in the comfort of an
indoor, two-level centre.
Around 135 top-name
THE
GRAND
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
This prestigious
Victorian hotel is
situated at the heart of
the lively city, close to
the historical harbour.
Breakfast included.
From €67, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
stores have branches
here, while 17 cafés
and restaurants tempt
fatigued shoppers (tel:
0117 950 8760).
SEE Encounters Short
Film Festival is Britain’s
biggest competitive
international short
fi lm festival. This year
it celebrates its 16th
birthday and returns to
the Watershed on 16–21
November. Expect over
300 new fi lms from 31
countries (Watershed
Media Centre, Canons
Road, Harbourside, tel:
0117 927 5100).
GO No matter how
much you try and get
away from it, Christmas
is coming and Bristol will
have dedicated markets
in the city centre. The
fun stalls offer great gift
ideas and shoppers will
be treated to the city’s
biggest-ever range of
festive entertainment.
ESCAPE Located in
the county of Wiltshire
is the world-famous
ancient monument
Stonehenge, which has
World Heritage Site
status. Only 63km from
Bristol, it is well worth
a day trip to experience
this mythical place and
decide for yourself how
the stones were aligned
(Amesbury, Wiltshire).
NO WAY!
John Harvey, who
started a wine importing
business in Bristol in the
19th century, went on
to create a new blend of
sherry. Harvey’s Bristol
Cream is available today
across the world.
Chris Savage/
Destination Bristol

Brussels
Belgium
DIALLING CODE +32
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, Geneva,
Liverpool, Lyon, Milan
(MXP), Nice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
Every 20 minutes,
routes 12 and 21
go to Schuman metro
station. Tickets: €3 (€5
on the bus).
Trains depart every
15 minutes. Tickets:
€5 single; €10 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 La Mer
du Nord (45 Rue
Sainte-Catherine, tel:
02 513 1192) Locals
stand at this popular
fi sh bar to sample the
best the North Sea
has to offer. Try the
fi sh soup, gambas a
la plancha or matjes
(herring), washed
down with a glass of
wine. Be assertive
when ordering as it is
a very busy place.
UP TO €30
Les Brassins (36 Rue
Keyenveld, tel: 02 512
6999) Being named
after the vat in which
beer is brewed, this
place naturally boasts
a large selection of
Belgian beers. You
can’t go wrong by
sampling a Cuvée des
Trolls beer while eating
the must-try simple
face steak (marinated
in mustard, parsley and
shallots, and grilled
only on one side).
UP TO €50 Aux
Armes de Bruxelles
(13 Rue des Bouchers,
tel: 02 511 5550) Set
smack in the middle
of the touristy area,
this appears at fi rst
glance to be a mustavoid
place. Order the
beef carbonade or
the lobster waterzooi,
however, and you
will soon change
your mind.
EXCLUSIVE The
Belga Queen (32 Rue
du Fossé aux Loups,
tel: 02 217 2187) In this
18th-century building
which previously
housed the Hôtel
de la Poste, Antoine
Pinto has created
a distinguished
gastronomic
establishment drawing
from the traditional
brasserie style. Touches
of originality include
waiters’ outfi ts and the
toilets. Cigar smokers
will be delighted
to know that the
restaurant hosts a club
designed just for them.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Les Halles
Saint Géry (23 Place
Saint Géry, tel: 02 502
4424) Located in what
used to be a market,
the architecture of
the building is not
the only reason to pop
in: this spacious bar
has great music as
well as regular
photo exhibitions.
LIVE MUSIC
La Maison du Peuple
(39 Parvis de Saint
Gilles, tel: 02 534
5605) Experience
rock’n’roll in one of
the coolest areas of
Brussels – Saint Gilles.
Gigs are often on
Friday nights.
LATE & LIVELY
K-Nal (1 Avenue du
Port, tel: 02 374 8738)
If you’re in the mood
to dance till sunrise on
a weekend night out
in Brussels, this is the
place to be. No dress
code is required – only
a fully recharged
body and a love for
electronic music. You’ll
fi nd it just off the canal,
as its name indicates.
THIS MONTH
SEE The Jazz Festival
has been creating a
New Orleans vibe all
over Flanders for the
past few months. For
your hit of blues and
soulful music, check
out the programme
and catch a concert
before the event draws
to a close at the end
of November. This is
the 25th anniversary
of the festival, which
has attracted some big
names (skodajazz.be).
GO To spot Eurocrats
having a beer, your
best bet is Place
du Luxembourg
(commonly know as
Place Lux). A stone’s
throw from the
European Parliament,
the bars on this
plaza are brimming
with drinkers on a
Thursday or Friday
evening. When
they’re not working,
MEP assistants love
socialising over beer.
ESCAPE Walk around
Ghent’s car-free area –
the largest in Belgium
– and you’ll soon fi nd
out why the city is
often claimed to be just
as beautiful as Bruges.
Check out Saint Bavo
Cathedral and Saint
Nicholas Church. Once
you’re done, hop on a
boat and ask the tour
guide about the city’s
secrets. One of the
best things about it
is that it’s barely
35 minutes on the
train from Brussels.
NO WAY!
Brussels was founded
by a descendent of
Charlemagne in the
10th century.
Gaspard Sebag
MULTI BD
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searching for holiday homes
to rent right now…
Showcase yours on the world’s largest travel site
SHOP Comic fans
will be delighted by the
selection at Multi BD.
The staff are also great
so don’t be afraid to
venture in even if you
know nothing about
the genre (122–124
Boulevard Anspach).
DESTINATION GUIDES | 121
Bucharest
Romania
DIALLING CODE +40
CURRENCY Leu (RON)
FLY FROM
Madrid,
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs RON100.
Bus 783 leaves
every 30 minutes.
Tickets: RON8.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Hanul
Berarilor Interbelic
(2 Strada Poenaru
Bordea, tel: 021 336
8009) An enormous,
centuries-old inn with
an amazing history.
Come here for hearty
Romanian food in
the shadow of
Casa Poporului.
EXCLUSIVE Prime
Steak & Seafood
(Radisson SAS, 63–81
Calea Victoriei, tel: 021
311 9000) Now serving
the world’s best steak
(the Irish Hereford),
the best restaurant in
town just got better.
Throw in fresh lobster,
top local wines,
Bucharest’s glitterati
and you have one very
exclusive evening.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Interbelic
(1 Strada Selari)
You’ll feel like you’ve
stumbled into a private
party as you duck into
this speakeasy-type
pub and cocktail bar
in an alley off Strada
Lipscani. It stays open
very late and is usually
the last Old Town venue
to empty out.
LATE & LIVELY
Control Club
(19 Strada Academiei)
A club for people who
would otherwise never
go to a club. Expect to
see ordinary people
having a great time
dancing to a mix of
music – often provided
by live acts.
THIS MONTH
SHOP You won’t be
able to visit the gift
shop at the Romanian
Peasant Museum and
fail to come away with
some gorgeous local
arts or crafts. All your
souvenir problems
solved in one go
(3 Sos Kiseleff).
SEE The collection
of Orthodox religious
art at the Romanian
National Art Museum
(MNAR) is as wondrous
as any in Europe. Highly
recommended and
for fi rst-time visitors
to Bucharest a must
(49–53 Calea Victoriei).
NO WAY!
The Mayor of
Bucharest’s Sector
2 has proposed building
a ski resort-style
gondola lift to ease
traffi c congestion.
Craig Turp
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122 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Budapest
Hungary
DIALLING CODE +36
CURRENCY Forint (HUF)
FLY FROM
Berlin, Dortmund,
Geneva, London (LGW,
LTN), Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
HUF3,500–HUF4,800.
Trains leave for
Western station.
Tickets: HUF300.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Haxen
Király (100 Király Utca,
VI, tel: 01 351 6793)
Serving traditional,
German-accented
Hungarian food. Check
out the crispy roasted
pork knuckles – for the
culinary brave.
EXCLUSIVE Bock
Bisztró (43–49
Erzsébet Körút, tel: 01
321 0340) Owned by
a leading winemaker,
Bock serves Hungarian
cuisine, with a wine list
as notable as the food.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Terv
Eszpresszó (19 Nádor
Utca, V, tel: 01 269 3132)
Terv is full of Socialist-
era kitsch, as well as
plumes of smoke. It’s a
nice place for a relaxing
drink or two.
LATE & LIVELY Fonó
Budai Zeneház (3
Sztregova Utca, XI, tel: 1
206 5300) Though it’s
a bit out of the centre,
Fonó is the best place
to catch live Hungarian
folk bands. Better yet,
there are regular dance
nights Hungarian-style.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Pick up some
of Hungary’s fi nest
pálinka (fruit brandy) at
Mesterpálinkák. Flavours
include raspberry,
blackcurrant, quince and
plum (18 Zrínyi Utca,
mesterpalinkak.hu).
SEE There is a lot going
on at the Museum of
Fine Arts this autumn.
Three temporary
exhibitions focus on the
work of Gustav Klimt;
Fernando Botero; and
the work of Hungarian
photographer Lucien
Hervé (Hosök tere, XIV).
Carolyn Banfalvi
NO WAY!
The Danube, an
important part of
the city’s landscape,
is Europe’s secondlongest
river and fl ows
through 10 countries
(including four
Central and Eastern
European capitals).
Cagliari
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Geneva, London
(STN), Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2005
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
ARST buses go
to the city centre.
Tickets: €2.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Café
Restaurant Van Gogh
(Baccu Mandara, Km19,
Cagliari-Villasimius
Road, tel: 070 786 082)
A peaceful venue tucked
away in the countryside,
with an adjoining terrace
and garden. The excellent
fi sh dishes are fresh and
always prepared with a
personal touch.
EXCLUSIVE La Scala
(50 Via Lunigiana, tel:
070 286 245) The
stylish restaurant of the
four-star Sardegna Hotel
is open to the public and
combines haute cuisine
with traditional Sardinian
cooking. To get a good
taste of the real Sardinia
try the culurgionis alla
gennargentu (stuffed
pasta) followed by the
cinghiale in umido al
cannonau (wild boar
cooked in local red wine).
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café Etnico
(39–41 Via Rockefeller,
tel: 070 348 1511) A
laidback café decorated
in a bohemian style.
Open from 7am, this is
the perfect spot for a
good cup of coffee and
a slice of cake.
LATE & LIVELY
Iguana’s Pub (20 Via
Costituzione, tel: 070
680 315) This lively bar
frequently hosts gigs
by local bands as well
as DJ events. Come on
Wednesday for karaoke
and on a Thursday for
hot Cuban rhythms.
THIS MONTH
SHOP With this
month’s start of the
chestnut season you
can buy them freshly
roasted from one of the
street stands in the Is
Mirrionis quarter. Tasty!
SEE From 19–21
November Cagliari
presents the European
Jazz Expo at the Fiera
di Cagliari, featuring
international artists.
Not to be missed, if
you’re into sax, double
bass and all things jazz
(jazzinsardegna.it).
NO WAY!
Spanish rulers
beheaded the Sardinian
aristocrat Marchese di
Cea in the 17th century
and displayed his head
for 17 years near the
small statue of the
elephant tower.
Dario Henke
Casablanca
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Lyon, Madrid, Milan
(MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs MAD250.
Trains depart
every hour to
Casa Voyageur. Tickets:
MAD35–MAD50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Aladdin
Brochettes (26 Rue
Abbas Mahmoud El
Akkad, tel: 0522 471
286) Aladdin has
branches around
Casablanca offering
cheap yet tasty sandwich
fare. Beef brochettes are
the speciality here.
EXCLUSIVE
Restaurant du Port de
Peche (Port de Peche,
tel: 0522 318 561) Go
early or be prepared
to wait. The freshly
caught fi sh and seafood
and delightfully rustic
ambience keep this
place busy. The paella
deserves a mention,
although you won’t be
disappointed if you stick
to Moroccan choices.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY La Calèche
(25 Rue de la Mer Rouge,
Aïn Diab, tel: 0522 798
223) Enjoy nightly live
rock, soul or Gnaoua at
this popular pre-club
hangout. Cosy yet lively,
try the colourful, bar
area or outdoor terrace.
LATE & LIVELY
Urban Villa (Royal Club
Equestre d’Anfa, Ain
Diab) Start early at the
pool tables or rooftop
lounge, then graduate
to the bar and fi nally the
dancefl oor as the night
heats up. Urban décor
and smiley people keep
this a lively yet downto-earth
option in an
at-times showy scene.
THIS MONTH
SHOP If you forgot
to bring a book for
your journey, there’s
a fairly good selection
of English books, both
fi ction and non-fi ction,
at Calliope Language
Bookstore (Rue Nassih
Eddine, Résidence Anfa
II, tel: 0522 257 400).
GO Admire the French
art deco architecture
while strolling the city
centre. Many buildings
are in need of repair, but
you can still appreciate
their beauty.
NO WAY!
The public holiday
on 6 November
commemorates the
Green March of 1975,
the day on which
350,000 unarmed
Moroccan civilians
marched to the Western
Sahara, liberating
it from Spain.
Cara Warkentin

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124 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Catania
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Milan (MXP),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Route 457 leaves
every 20 minutes,
stopping in the centre.
Tickets: €1.30.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Bar Smeraldo (241 Via
Plebiscito, tel: 095 349
675) Close to the Ursino
Castle, this petite bar
offers outdoor tables. Sit
here and start your day
with a typical Sicilian
granita and a brioche.
EXCLUSIVE Trattoria
Casalinga (19 Via
Biondi, tel: 095 311
319) This restaurant
offers dishes made
using traditional Sicilian
methods. Friendly staff
will advise you about the
daily specialities – don’t
miss the homemade
pasta with aubergines.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Macondo
Cafè (95 Via Vittorio
Emanuele II) This newly
renovated wine and book
café boasts a warm and
relaxing environment,
where your only worry is
to keep any spills away
from the books.
LATE & LIVELY Sax
Pub (31 Via Pulvirenti)
If you like live music and
cool people, this is the
perfect place. There is
a pizzeria, which opens
during the evenings. After
the oven doors close,
locals enjoy the music
over a bottle from the
international beer menu.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Atzori Sa Bellesa
is a new shop for
women. Here you can
fi nd bags, lingerie and
perfumes. Everything
is made either locally
or nationally (55 Viale
Mario Rapidardi).
GO Via Etnea is the
Champs Elysees of
Catania. Shops, squares,
churches, restaurants
and pubs attract
everyone here.
Alessandro Di Maio
NO WAY!
The town of
Castelvetrano made a
950m-long sandwich.
The idea was to beat
the world record, which
stands at 1103m, but
apparently making
huge sandwiches isn’t
as easy as it looks!
Cologne
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Edinburgh,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
The fare to Cologne is
€30 and €40 to Bonn.
Trains leave for
Cologne every 10
minutes. Tickets: €2.50.
The bus for Bonn,
leaves every 30
minutes. Tickets: €4.20.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Haus
Töller (96 Weyerstrasse,
tel: 0221 258 9316) One
of the most atmospheric
spots in the city to
sample kölsch beer and
authentic Rhineland
cooking; pig’s trotter is
the house speciality.
EXCLUSIVE
Capricorn i Aries (31
Alteburgerstrasse, tel:
0221 397 5710) With just
four tables, the all-white
dining room is probably
the tiniest gourmet
temple. Cologne-born
chef Klaus Jacquemod
has garnered a Michelin
star for his creative
European cooking.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Saudade
(2 Wahlenstrasse,
Ehrenfeld, tel: 0221 579
6476) The stylish but unshowy
décor at Saudade
creates a perfect
setting for the excellent
Portuguese wines and
tapas-style nibbles.
LATE & LIVELY
Alterwartesaal
(11 Johannisstrasse,
tel: 0221 912 8850)
Electropop heaven
returns to the Cologne
Hauptbahnhof on 12
November for DJ Elvis’
Depeche Mode night,
Party for the Living.
THIS MONTH
SHOP La Seda is
the place to go in the
trendy Belgian Quarter
for costume jewellery,
accessories, bags and
scarves, from young
designers to big-name
brands (100A Brüsseler
Strasse, tel: 0221 469
5961, laseda.de).
SEE Saturday 6
November is the Long
Night of the Museums,
when, from 7pm–3am,
shuttle buses connect
museums and galleries
for a night of art, dance,
fi lm, and more; an
after show party at the
Museum Ludwig goes on
until 5am (museums
nacht-koeln.de).
NO WAY!
The famous 4711 brand
of Eau de Cologne
is named after the
street number of the
original building in
Glockengasse where
this historic fragrance
was fi rst made in 1792.
Neville Walker
Copenhagen
Denmark
DIALLING CODE +45
CURRENCY Krone (DKK)
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Geneva, London
(LGW, STN), Manchester,
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1998
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs DKK180.
Underground
trains go to
Nørreport station from
Terminal 3. Tickets:
DKK31.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 LeLe
Takeaway (56
Vesterbrogade, tel: 3322
7134) Just down the road
from LeLe Nha Hang,
a bustling and brilliant
Vietnamese restaurant,
you’ll fi nd this, its much
more laidback little
sister. Expect a range
of affordable and fresh
summer rolls, curries,
salads and sushi.
UP TO €30 Bankeråt
(29 Ahlefeldtsgade, tel:
3393 6988) Don’t let
the stuffed animals in
fancy dress put you off
this eccentric café, which
is a friendly and cosy
candlelit spot for lunch or
dinner. In the afternoon
take advantage of the
fi ve foreign daily papers.
UP TO €50
Madklubben Steak
(23 Pilestraede, tel:
3313 3334) The
laidback and affordable
Madklubben Steak pulls
in crowds most nights.
The monthly menu
offers three cuts of meat
as well as American
classics such as corn on
the cob, crab cakes and
New York cheesecake.
EXCLUSIVE Noma
(93 Strandgade, tel:
3296 3297) Proclaimed
the world’s best
restaurant this year by
The Guardian, René
Redzepi’s restaurant has
become a destination
in its own right, with
foodies from across
the globe fl ying in to
experience this bastion
of Nordic cuisine.
Everything about this
two-star Michelin venue
– from the setting in a
converted warehouse to
the delicate concoctions
like deer and wild thyme
– scream understated
and experimental
decadence. Book early,
and enjoy a night you
will remember.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bo-Bi
Bar (14 Klareboderne,
tel: 3312 5543) The
burgundy baroque-style
wallpaper, low lighting
and bustling bar make
this an inviting escape
from the cold streets.
Open since 1917, this
Czech establishment
attracts everyone from
intellectuals to shotsipping
locals.

Cologne-Highlights
Top Events for your destination Cologne
www.koelntourismus.de
Cologne Events 2011
• Carnival in Cologne
03. - 09. March
• lit. and lit.kid. COLOGNE 2011
International literatur festival
16.- 26. March
• ART COLOGNE – International
art fair, Koelnmesse
13.- 17. April
• Musiktriennale Cologne Extra
08. - 15. May
• Cologne Summer festival
Cologne philharmonic orchestra
in June/July
• ColognePride (CSD) – Gay-Festival
with big sunday pride parade
01.- 03. July
• Cologne Lights – musical fi reworks
on the Rhine
09. July
• Gamescom – Fair for interactive
games and entertainment
17.- 21. August
• 15. Cologne Marathon
02. October
• Cologne Christmas Markets
in December
more events and informations at
www.koelntourismus.de
State: 08/2010. Subject to change.

126 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Copenhagen
Denmark
LIVE MUSIC Café
Intime (25 Allégade, tel:
3834 1958) A surprising
fi nd in gentrifi ed
Frederiksberg, this
bohemian bar, which
fi rst opened its doors
in the 1920s, has long
been a hit with both
the gay and straight
community. Offering
jazz bands, drag
queens, a house pianist
and other live acts.
LATE & LIVELY
Kødboderne 18 (18
Kødboderne) One of a
handful of edgy, heaving
nightclubs in the übertrendy
meat-packing
district, this former
butcher’s hall throbs
until morning with DJs.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Ladies will
love Emma Lu, a chic
boutique set up by
a former stylist at
101 Istedgade, one of
Vesterbro’s coolest
streets. As well as
hand picking Danish
designers, Gitte stocks
products from across
Europe, too.
SEE Beer lovers
should head to the
Carlsberg Visitors
Centre, where you can
do a self-guided tour.
As well as learning
about the brewing
process, and the
Jacobsen Family who
founded Carlsberg in
1847, there’s two beers
included at the end, too!
(11 Gamle Carlsberg Vej,
visitcarlsberg.dk).
GO Known locally
as “Little Berlin”,
Jægersborggade is a
small cobbled street
abutted at one end by
the beautifully kept
graveyard Assistens
Kirkegard and with
Nørrebro Park at the
other. It’s packed with
small independent
fashion and art shops
(jaegersborggade.dk).
ESCAPE A 90-minute
train ride from the
central station will
deliver you to Odense,
the historic city on
the island of Funen
whose pedestrianised
streets, and squares are
brimming with cafés,
shops and restaurants.
Hans Christian
Andersen hails from the
city and you can visit his
museum. Plus there’s
a castle, stunning
churches, and a good
selection of museums.
NO WAY!
Shops are shut on
Sunday and most close
before 2pm on Saturday,
according to Danish law.
Cathy Strongman
COPENHAGEN
ISLAND
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
This design hotel is
located on a bridge
in the middle of a
lake. The light, glass
and water create a
unique environment.
From €65, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
Corsica
(Ajaccio)
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London (LGW),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
Route 8 buses go
to the centre daily.
Tickets: €4.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Chez
Paulo (7 Rue Roi de
Rome, tel: 04 9551
1647) For the best
Italian in town, head to
Chez Paulo’s. Watch
the world go by from
the terrace and enjoy
a good selection of
pizza and pasta.
EXCLUSIVE Le
Grand Café Napoléon
(10 Cours Napoléon,
tel: 04 9521 4254) Le
Grand Café Napoleon
is allegedly the oldest
café in town. Boasting
a Second Empire-style
décor, it offers an
elegant atmosphere
to enjoy modern
gourmet cuisine with
Mediterranean fl avours.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Safari
(18 Boulevard Lantivy)
Enjoy a cocktail at
Safari, one of the
many bars and cafés
overlooking the bay
on Boulevard Lantivy.
Perfect for a
laidback evening.
LATE & LIVELY
La Place (Boulevard
Lantivy, Résidence
Diamant II, tel: 04 9551
0910) Ajaccio’s best
disco, La Place, is the
venue to party until the
small hours. The music
is mainly techno and
the clientèle is young.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Casa Napoleon,
a traditional Corsican
delicatessen, is the
perfect place to stock
up on delicious local
products, including a
variety of cheese, wine
and jam (3 Rue Fesch,
tel: 04 9521 4788).
GO Musée Fesch in
the Palais des Beaux
Arts hosts a huge
collection of paintings
and sculptures
spanning from the
14th–20th Century
and is considered to
be the most important
museum, after the
Louvre, for its collection
of Italian Paintings
(50 Rue Cardinal, tel:
04 9521 4817, museefesch.com)
.
NO WAY!
Ajaccio is separated
from the neighbouring
island of Sardinia
by only 11km, yet
one is French and
the other Italian.
Sarah Gibbons
Corsica
(Bastia)
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Geneva,
London (LGW), Lyon,
Manchester, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €50.
Catch the bus to
the Préfecture.
Tickets: €8.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Chez
Vincent (12 Rue St
Michel, La Citadelle,
tel: 04 9531 6250)
Refi ned cuisine in a
cosy décor served by
friendly staff at one of
Bastia’s best addresses.
EXCLUSIVE Le A
(6 Place de l’Hôtel de
Ville, tel: 04 9555 1676)
Sample delectable
cuisine in a charming
part of town. The lobster
linguine and the fondant
à la châtaigne (chestnut
fondant) are delicious.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Le Bar
de la Citadelle (La
Citadelle, tel: 04 9531
2480) Arguably the best
terrace in Bastia with
splendid views over the
Mediterranean and the
ships. Enjoy an aperitif
in a cosy lounger as
the sun sets.
LATE & LIVELY Bar
La Suite (2 Rue César
Campinchi, tel: 06 2334
4565) Why not sit back
and relax with a Cuban
cigar and 60-year-old
cognac? This place
boasts classy cocktails, a
varied menu and themed
evenings on weekends.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Album Bookshop
has a selection of tomes
along with a great
selection of magazines,
cartoons and French
fi ction. Take some time
to browse the books
on Corsican cuisine,
photography, local arts,
history and politics.
There are also books in
the Corsican language
for the linguistically
brave (19 Boulevard
Paoli, tel: 04 9531 0859).
SEE There’s some
funny business going
on in Bastia. The Arte
Mare Festival (22–27
November) celebrates
Mediterranean art and
culture and this year the
spotlight is on comedy
in all its shapes and
forms (arte-mare.eu).
NO WAY!
In 1863, Corsican
chemist Angelo Mariani
created a tonic know
as Vin Tonique Mariani,
made from wine and
coca leaves. It was a
recipe later copied by an
American pharmacist to
become... Coca Cola.
Stacy Jouve

Cyprus
(Larnaca)
Cyprus
DIALLING CODE +357
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2009
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €15.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Opos Palia
(1 Kritis and Ellispontou)
A welcoming taverna
that offers home cooking
Cypriot-style. Chequered
tablecloths complete
the Mediterranean feel
of the whole place.
EXCLUSIVE
Promenade Fish
Restaurant (Piale
Pasha, tel: 24 653 521)
A smart-but-relaxed
waterfront venue that’s
a pebble’s throw from
the sea. There’s not an
extensive evening
menu, but the food they
do offer is good and
served with fl air.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Meeting Pub and
Cafeteria (90 Athens
Avenue, tel: 24 656 893)
A very friendly seafront
bar, where attentive
staff serve an attractive
snack menu.
LATE & LIVELY
Geometry Club
(8 Karaoli and Demetriou
Street) A retro club with
hedonistic interiors of
mirrored walls. Resident
DJs play a good mix of
music to young clubbers.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Estia is a
bookshop worth
investigating for its
quirkiness. It sells guide
books and maps and
a range of magazines
(5 Zenonos Kitieos
Street, tel: 24 652 121).
SEE Larnaca’s amateur
choirs, orchestras,
dancers and theatrical
groups perform on 1–14
November across the
city during the European
Cultural Winter festival.
NO WAY!
Larnaca’s George
Theodoulou, holds a
Guinness World Record
for dancing with 31
glasses on his head!
Bev Orton Jennings
PALM BEACH
HOTEL
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
This hotel complex is
located on a shingle
beach and consists
of a main building
and bungalows.
Breakfast included.
From €29, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
Cyprus
(Paphos)
Cyprus
DIALLING CODE +357
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Edinburgh,
London (LGW, LTN),
Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Zorbas
Bakery (Apostolou
Pavlou & Pnytagora
Street, tel: 26 822 062)
Conveniently located in
the tourist area, Zorbas
is the perfect spot for
sweet and savoury
Cypriot goodies to take
back to your hotel.
EXCLUSIVE Mosaics
Restaurant (Almyra
Hotel, Poseidonos
Avenue, tel: 26 888
700) Dine at Mosaics
Restaurant at the
beachside Almyra
Hotel for a selection of
Mediterranaean and
international à la carte
and buffet dining in a
chic setting. Special
theme evenings offer
everything from
swordfi sh kebabs to
homemade desserts.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Muse Café
(Mousalla, tel: 26 941
951) Enjoy cocktails,
coffees and light snacks
at this newly renovated
chic café with some of
the best views in Paphos.
Indoor and outdoor
seating available.
LATE & LIVELY
Notos Bar (Paphos
Harbour, tel: 26 939
616) Located in the
heart of Paphos harbour,
Notos puts on a mix of
Greek pop, Latin hits,
rock, techno and ethnic
sounds throughout the
week. The harbour views
are a bonus, too.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For a bargain
holiday read, make sure
you visit the Polis Charity
Bookshop in pretty
Polis for used books. A
fi xture in the community,
the shop raises money
for a local charity (23
Archbishop Makarios
Avenue, tel: 99 077 352).
GO A day trip to
the capital, Nicosia,
provides a taste of
Cypriot history and
culture. The Venetian
walls of the fascinating
Old Town are splendid
and there are plenty of
spots to enjoy lunch
and coffee. Sadly,
Nicosia is the only
divided city in Europe.
NO WAY!
Cyprus celebrated its
50th anniversary this
year. The island’s fi rst
president, Archbishop
Makarios, was born
in charming Panayia
village in Paphos.
Lucie Robson/lintv.eu
DESTINATION GUIDES | 127
Doncaster
Sheffield
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Barcelona, Faro,
Majorca, Prague
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
NEW FROM
2010
Pre-book your taxi
from easyJet.com.
The fare to Doncaster is
£14 and £42 to Sheffi eld.
The 707 bus runs
to Doncaster.
Tickets: £3.50 single.
National Express
runs services from
Doncaster to Sheffi eld.
Tickets: £3.90 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Cubana
Tapas Bar (34 Trippet
Lane, tel: 0114 2760
475) If you want a hint of
passion in your food then
this is the place. From its
set menus to selected
tapas dishes, this is
a great place to eat.
EXCLUSIVE Rafters
(220 Oakbrook Road,
tel: 0114 230 4819) Well
known for its emphasis
on seasonal produce, the
menu changes every six
to eight weeks, and the
wine list has more than
75 wines to select.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Devonshire Cat
(Devonshire Green, tel:
0114 279 6700) With
over 100 bottled beers
from around the world
available, plus 12 real ales
on offer, you’re sure to
fi nd a drink you like here.
LATE & LIVELY
02 Academy Sheffi eld
(37–43 Arundel
Gate, tel: 0844 477
2000) There’s always
something happening
at the 02 Academy.
Pop princess Ellie
Goulding takes centre
stage on 6 November.
THIS MONTH
SHOP If you’re a fan
of “everything under
one roof” then head to
Meadowhall. There are
the obvious high-street
stores, plus a great
selection of individual
shops in the Lanes
section. If you’re after
the latest pampering
treatments, try out
Appy Feet, where small
fi sh nibble your toes.
SEE If in town on 5
November then you
have to experience
the fantastic displays
celebrating Guy
Fawkes Night. Fabulous
fi reworks, blazing
bonfi res and tasty toffee
apples will give you
a night to remember.
NO WAY!
With over two million
trees and over 60%
of green space, it’s
estimated that Sheffi eld
has more trees per
person than any other
city in Europe.
Gina Davies

128 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Dortmund
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Barcelona,
Budapest, Krakow,
London (LTN),
Majorca, Thessaloniki
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €22.
The Airport
Express bus leaves
every hour. Tickets: €6.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Nuragus
(1 Goebenstrasse, tel:
0231 533 7088) A taste
of Sardinia in Dortmund
– sit in a nicely lit and
elegant dining room to
sample excellent island
food. Try pasta, ham and
sausage, and the wines.
EXCLUSIVE View
(Leonie-Reygers-Terasse,
tel: 0231 7208 4124)
Dortmund’s newest
and most spectacular
restaurant recently
opened in the 15-metre
high top fl oor cathedral
of the Dortmunder U.
By day a bistro and café,
at night it’s a trendy
restaurant with Euro-
Asian dishes. The terrace
also has fantastic views.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Spanish
Blue (12 Essener
Strasse, tel: 0231 121
112) Great breakfasts
served in a young-atheart
café in the funky
Kreuzviertel district.
Drop by on Sundays
for an extended – and
affordable – brunch.
LATE & LIVELY Balke
(127 Hohe Strasse, tel:
0231 280 8944) Loved
by both football fans and
“civilians”, trendy Balke
rocks during matches.
There’s a good vibe on
weekend nights, too.
THIS MONTH
SEE Germany’s best
club with the best fans is
right here. In November
BVB Dortmund face two
rival teams, promising
good matches (bvb.de).
NO WAY!
Dortmund has a hanging
monorail system, the
H-Bahn, connecting the
university campus areas.
Jeroen van Marle/
inyourpocket.com
PARADORES
SHOP For delicious
Mediterranean food
and wine take a visit to
Paradores, a deli with
a mouth-watering
selection of olives,
wines and spirits (17
Freistuhl, paradoresdortmund.de).
Düsseldorf
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
London (LGW), Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2009
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Trains to
Hauptbahnhof
leave every 10 minutes.
Tickets: €2.30.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Münstermann’s
Kontor (11 Hohe
Strasse, tel: 0211 130
0416) The prices
are moderate and
the quality high at
Münstermann’s
Kontor, an offshoot of
Düsseldorf’s best-known
delicatessen that’s also
one of the most popular
lunch spots in the city.
EXCLUSIVE
Monkey’s West (15
Graf Adolf Platz, tel:
0211 6496 3726) The
décor is as fresh and
original as the creative
modern cooking at
Monkey’s West, a slick
and stylish business
favourite in Düsseldorf’s
banking district.
WWW.ONDINERESTAURANT.CO.UK
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Meuser 1853 (75 Alt-
Niederkassel, tel: 0211
551 272) With its stained
glass and villagey
ambience, Meuser 1853
is like an old country
pub just minutes from
the city centre.
LATE & LIVELY
Löwenburg (64
Ludenberger Strasse,
tel: 0211 663 787)
Sensual, traditional
Argentine tango meets
the racy contemporary
electronic version
on the sprung
dancefl oor of the
Löwenburg ballroom
for Tango Lounge.
THIS MONTH
SHOP On Saturday
13 November, a boxing
gym in the east of
the city is the quirky
setting for the monthly
Mitternachtsmarkt
where, from 6pm to
midnight you can
browse for antiques,
clothes and bric-a-brac,
and enjoy a drink
(5 Flinger Broich,
mitternachtsmarkt.de).
SEE Nam June Paik
was the pioneer of video
art, and now, nearly fi ve
years after his death, his
work is on show again in
a major exhibition at the
Museum Kunst Palast
as part of the Düsseldorf
Quadriennale art
festival, until 21
November (smkp.de).
NO WAY!
Düsseldorf has a
nationwide reputation
in Germany for cabaret
and biting political satire.
Neville Walker
Edinburgh
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Basel-
Mulhouse, Belfast (BFS),
Bristol, Cologne, Cyprus
(Paphos), Geneva, Krakow,
Lisbon, London (LGW,
LTN, STN), Lyon, Madrid,
Milan (MXP), Munich,
Majorca, Nice, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1995
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £15.
The Airlink 100
service goes to
the centre. Tickets: £6.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Dean
Gallery Café (73 Belford
Road, tel: 0131 624
6200) Let your taste
buds catch up with
your other senses while
visiting this autumn’s
Surrealist exhibition.
Soups and light mains
are served at lunchtime,
otherwise there’s a great
cake selection, making
afternoon tea a real treat.
UP TO €30 The
Basement Bar and
Restaurant (10A
Broughton Street, tel:
0131 557 0097) The
laidback ambience,
even in the slightly more
formal dining area, is
put to bed by some
seriously good food.
The reasonably priced
lunch menu stays
constant but the dailychanging
evening mains
are well-constructed
combinations.
UP TO €50 Sweet
Melindas (11 Roseneath
Street, Marchmont, tel:
0131 229 7953) A small
restaurant that rises high
above its neighbourhood
status and is worth
crossing the Meadows
to fi nd. The focus is
on the freshest fi sh,
sourced from Eddie’s
Seafood Market next
door, and prepared with
a sensibility to subtlety
and texture. But equal
attention is paid to detail
throughout the menu.
Booking essential.
EXCLUSIVE The
Tower (Chambers
Street, tel: 0131 225
3003) The Museum
of Scotland’s rooftop
restaurant boasts
an extensive menu
featuring the best
seasonal, Scottish
ingredients, prepared in
a relaxed, unfussy style.
Add a serious wine list,
attentive service and
spectacular cityscape
views across to the castle
and you have a unique
destination worthy of
any celebratory meal.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The Blue
Bazer (2 Spittal Street,
West Port, tel: 0131 229
5030) Often winning
CAMRA’s Pub of the
Year award and
SCOTTISH SEAFOOD RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR. SPECIAL LUNCH MENUS 12.00~3.00PM & PRE-THEATRE 5.30-6.30PM.
2 GEORGE IV BRIDGE, EDINBURGH EH1 1AD TELEPHONE: 0131 226 1888 OPEN 7 DAYS.

TAKE A
WINTER EDINBURGH BREAK,
BRIGHTON SPARKLES
Enjoy the magic of Scotland’s
capital city as the streets are
taken Looking over for by Christmas the perfect markets,
an ice rink and the famous
city New break? Year’s Brighton Eve celebrations
is
ideal all year round
NO CITY SPARKLES more than
Edinburgh at Christmas. From its
twinkling outdoor ice rink
overlooked by Edinburgh Castle, to
original and quirky shopping
streets, Scotland’s capital is one of
the world’s must-see winter
destinations. Voted “Favourite UK
City” by the readers of Condé Nast
Traveller, Edinburgh makes a point
of being unlike anywhere else in the
world. Expect to enjoy a magical
atmosphere – fairy lights, bustling
crowds and outdoor markets – all
set against the city’s beautiful
skyline. Our top tips include the
views from Princes Street’s Big
Wheel, a warm Glühwein from the
German market, cocktails and
designer splurging in Multrees
Walk, and of course, New Year Eve’s
best street party. Join more than
100,000 people from 60 countries
for a celebration like you’ve never
seen before. For insider guides,
what’s on, discounts, gift ideas and
more, visit edinburghsparkles.com.
ADVERTISING PROMOTION

130 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Edinburgh
UK
always mentioned by
beer enthusiasts, this
traditional two-room bar
is the perfect snug for
a session of real-ale and
fi ne-whisky drinking in
front of the fi re.
LIVE MUSIC The
Cabaret Voltaire (36
Blair Street, tel: 0131
220 6176) Before the
late-night clubs open at
11pm, the vaulted arches
of the “Cab” throb to
the sound of smaller
indie bands on the
touring circuit. A sweaty,
intimate environment
for the appreciation of
music at high volume.
LATE & LIVELY The
Hive (15 Niddry Street,
tel: 0131 556 0444)
Nestling deep in the
vaults under South
Bridge, this student
favourite is open from
10pm–3am every night
of the week. The music
changes nightly but the
emphasis is on the party,
whatever the genre.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Independent
boutique Goodstead
is a destination for
those who like to make
an individual style
statement, with brands
such APC, Sessun
and Folk. But the real
attraction is its attentive
service (76 Rose Street,
tel: 0131 228 2846).
SEE At least one of
Edinburgh’s rival football
teams – Heart of
Midlothian (Tynecastle)
and Hibernian (Easter
Road Stadium) – will be
playing at home every
weekend in November,
kicking off with the local
derby at Easter Road on
Sunday 6th (heartsfc.
co.uk; hibernianfc.co.uk).
GO Calton Hill, with
its impressive Grecian
columns, is part of
the Edinburgh vista.
A quick walk here
provides great views of
the city, particularly in
the early evening.
ESCAPE The old
fi shing port of Dunbar
is 40 minutes by train
east of Edinburgh. Best
known as the birthplace
of conservation
movement founder
John Muir, the town
houses a small museum
about his work and life
(126 High Street).
NO WAY!
Bovril meat extract, a
British favourite, was
invented in Edinburgh
in the mid-19th century,
when John Johnston
experimented with
making “liquid beef” in
his butcher’s shop.
Thom Dibdin
RADISSON
BLU HOTEL
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Located in the heart
of the Royal Mile,
this is the perfect
hotel for business
or leisure trips.
Breakfast Included.
From €99, book at
hotels.easyJet.com
Faro
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Belfast (BFS),
Bristol, Doncaster
Sheffi eld, Geneva,
Glasgow, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN, STN),
Newcastle, Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1999
Pre-book your
taxi at easyJet.
com. The fare to Faro is
about €10, Vilamoura
€25, and Albufeira and
Tavira €40.
Eva buses go to
various cities.
Tickets to Faro: €2.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
La Crêperie (Praça,
Vale do Lobo, tel:
289 353 429) Crêpes,
snacks, light meals
and salads are popular
at this modern café
in the heart of the
Vale do Lobo resort.
The ice cream and
smoothie bar does
good business, too.
UP TO €30 O Bote
(122 Avenida 5 de
Outubro, Olhão, tel:
289 721 183) With
a down-to-earth
atmosphere, this
locals’ favourite serves
excellent fresh fi sh
and seafood, grilled
within sight of your
table on the busy
promenade, which
teems with activity by
night as the locals
walk off their dinner.
UP TO €50 Gourmet
Natural (Estrada
Ferrarias-Almancil,
Almancil, tel: 289 355
271) Smart interiors
and a lovely courtyard
give you the bad-good
weather option at
this time of the year.
The former Ermitage
is now a Uruguayan
steakhouse, serving
sizzling steaks cooked
over a fi rewoodfl
ame barbecue,
with a choice of
rib-eye, sirloin, fi llet or
rump. The waiting
staff will convince you
to keep your steak
nice and rare.
EXCLUSIVE Paixa
(52 Quadradinhos,
Vale do Lobo, tel: 289
412 775) Pared-back
luxury design, with
the food – a
Portuguese take on
tapas – among the
best in the Algarve.
The xerem (corn
meal) with prawns and
cockles is one of the
highlights. Enjoy
a drink or two in the
Champagne bar and
formal dining inside,
or alfresco lunches
in the garden if you
wrap up warmly.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Duna
Beach Club (Meia
Praia, Lagos, tel: 282
762 091) The summer
at Apex Hotels in Edinburgh (4 hotels)
Book at least 7 days in advance and SAVE 10% *
Book at least 28 days in advance and SAVE 15% *
Book a 3 night stay in advance and SAVE 20% *
* Discount off the Best Flexible rate.
theme parties are
over, but the beat
goes on at this relaxed
beach bar with its
circular swimming
pool centrepiece. Ease
into the evening with
a cocktail and some
easy-listening sounds.
Although a midnight
dip at this time of year
is not recommended!
LIVE MUSIC
Manoel’s Jazz Club
(Monte Carvoeiro, tel:
282 086 869) From
laidback jazz on the
fi rst Friday of every
month to mainstream
rock and pop on
other nights, this is
something of
an Algarve institution.
LATE & LIVELY
Gingko (Rocha dos
Castelos, Praia da
Rocha, tel: 282 402
210) An ultra-modern
minimalist bar. Party
the night away to the
funky jazz and Latin
beats with a wicked
mojito in hand.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Paulo Miranda
Joalheiro is one of
the Algarve’s leading
luxury jewellers,
stocking top names
in watches, jewellery
and exclusive gifts
including Breitling,
Omega and Chaumet,
plus Portuguese
exclusives (21 Rua
de Santo Antonio,
tel: 289 821 441).
SEE For high-speed
motor-racing action
in the great outdoors
head to the Casinos
do Algarve Rally
(13–14 November),
with Peugeot, VW
and Vauxhall among
the cars fi ghting
it out in the hills
between Portimao and
Monchique. If you’re
in to fast cars
screeching round
curves and corners,
this event is for you
(clubeautomovel
algarve.pt).
GO There’s more than
high-end, exclusive
real estate to Vale do
Lobo: the luxury
resort offers endless
options for holidaying
visitors, including
villas and apartments
to rent, some of
the region’s top
restaurants, shops,
beaches, golf courses,
a spa and extensive
leisure facilities,
making even a rainy
day an opportunity to
relax and unwind.
ESCAPE See a new
side of the Algarve
on foot, bike or
horseback on the Via
Algarviana’s extensive
pathways, which
stretch for 240km and
now link up the length
of the region, from
Alcoutim in the east
to Cape St Vincent
in the west
(viaalgarviana.org).
NO WAY!
In a largely west and
southwest-facing
region famous for its
maritime sunsets,
Praia do Martinhal
is one of the few
east-facing beaches
where you can see
the sun rise out of the
Mediterranean sea.
Paul Rouse/
inspirationsalgarve
SAVE up to 20%*on Autumn / Winter Rates
Small Hotel Group
of the Year 2010 - 2011
Visit
apexhotels.co.uk/edinburgh
and book online using our
New Lowest Rate Calendar
T 0845 365 0000

Fez
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
NEW FROM
2010
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs 120MAD.
Buses run to the
train station in
the New City. Tickets:
20MAD.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Fès et
Gestes (39 Arsat
el-Hamoumi, Ziat, Fez
Medina, tel: 0535 638
532) Just the place
for a lazy lunch in the
leafy garden around the
fountain, or sit inside
the art-fi lled house.
There are vegetarian
choices and an à la carte
menu of traditional
Moroccan delights.
EXCLUSIVE Maison
Blanche (12 Rue
Ahmed Chaouki, Ville
Nouvelle, tel: 0535
622 727) French chef
Thierry Enderlin cooks
up a storm at this ultrachic
restaurant in the
new city. All decked out
in granite with shocking
pink accents, the
ambience is stylish and
the food superb. There’s
a seasonal menu and an
excellent wine list.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Venezia Ice
(Railway Station, Ville
Nouvelle) Okay, so it’s
a bit weird to go to the
station for an afternoon
coffee and slice of cake.
But Fassis (natives of
Fez) are enormously
proud of their sparkly
new station and it’s the
place to hang out (it even
has free Wi-Fi). Venezia
has delicious cakes and
excellent ice cream.
LATE & LIVELY
Mezzanine (17 Kasbat
Chams, Fes Jdid , tel:
0535 638 668) The later
you go to this chic bar,
the cooler it gets. Open
all day for light meals,
it starts to rock after
10pm. Black marble,
black chandeliers, white
leather cushions on
the roof terrace and an
ambient beat make it
the place to be for young
Fassis. Open until 2am.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Only produced
in the south of Morocco,
argan is prized in
cosmetics. Arganza
has a range of exquisite
body oils. There’s an
edible version too, with a
delicious toasted fl avour
(9 Rue de la Poste,
Batha, Fez Medina).
GO Bab Boujloud is the
place to grab a seat at
a pavement café,
order a mint tea and
watch the world go by
(Boujloud, Fez Medina).
NO WAY!
There are 527 working
mules and donkeys in
the Fez medina. Balak...
watch out!
Helen Granger
Fuerteventura
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Liverpool,
London (STN), Madrid
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
The fare to Corralejo is
€60, Caleta de Fuste €15
and Costa Calma €90.
Route 3 goes to
Caleta de Fuste.
Tickets: €1.40. Route 6
buses to Corralejo run
every hour. Tickets: €4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
EXCLUSIVE La
Davola (21 Calle La
Iglesia, Corralejo, tel:
928 537 297) A stunning
Basque restaurant
offering fantastic cuisine
that stays loyal to its
heritage and culture,
offering outstanding
surroundings for a
romantic dinner. Try
the ventresca of tuna,
a beautiful cut that
melts in the mouth.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Casper’s
Bar (C6 Avenida Pedro y
Guy Vandaele, Corralejo)
Chill out at this laidback
bar that also offers
Internet access. It boasts
an extensive cocktail list
and a good selection of
Belgian beers.
LATE & LIVELY
Flicks (Atlantico Centre
Corralejo) This may be
a karaoke bar, but it’s
not just any karaoke bar:
it has a touch of class,
some great songs on the
list and is guaranteed
to keep you entertained
well into the night.
THIS MONTH
SHOP La Folie des
Delices is a patisserie
selling fantastic pastries.
Gluten-free products are
a speciality of the house
(1 Avenida Juan Carlos,
tel: 928 866 089).
SEE The annual Kite
Festival is held on the
dunes of Corralejo,
with fl yers from around
the world fl ocking to
the beach to show off.
NO WAY!
The Guanches are the
tall, blonde natives
of Fuerteventura.
Penny Melville
UP TO €30
Vaca Azul (Calle
Requeña Muelle Viejo,
tel: 928 538 685) Be
transported to “true
Fuerteventura” in this
charming setting.
This long-standing
restaurant offers a full
à la carte menu.
DESTINATION GUIDES | 131
Geneva
Switzerland
DIALLING CODE +41
CURRENCY CHF
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Asturias,
Barcelona, Belfast (BFS),
Berlin, Birmingham,
Bordeaux, Bournemouth,
Brindisi, Bristol,
Brussels, Budapest,
Cagliari, Copenhagen,
Corsica (Ajaccio),
Corsica (Bastia), Crete
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,
Edinburgh, Faro, Glasgow,
Gran Canaria, Hurghada,
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,
Leeds-Bradford, London
(LGW, LTN, STN), Madrid,
Majorca, Málaga,
Manchester, Marrakech,
Nantes, Naples,
Newcastle, Nice, Olbia,
Paris (ORY), Porto,
Pristina, Rome (CIA),
Sharm El Sheikh,
Split, Stockholm,
Tel Aviv, Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1997
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs CHF50.
Free trains go to
Cornavin station.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Globus
(48 Grand Passage Rue
du Rhone, tel: 022 319
5050) The chic food
hall of this stylish Swiss
department store offers
up everything from
cheese pancakes to Thai
dishes, plus fi ne wines
and fresh fruit juices.
Prepare to fi ght for a seat
at lunchtime though.
UP TO €30 Le Green
Café (77 Boulevard Carl
Vogt, tel: 022 321 9166)
Not so much about the
environment but more
just about the colour
green that covers its
interiors. The Peruvian
menu stands out
from other offerings
around the city, as do
the more traditional
dishes offered as the
plat du jour.
UP TO €50 La Broche
(36 Rue du Stand, tel:
022 321 2260) This
beautiful stone-built
restaurant offers fi ne
dining in a sprawling,
airy banquet hall.
The menu is largely
traditional French-style
but vegetarians are
also surprisingly well
catered for.
EXCLUSIVE Le Béarn
(4 Quai de la Poste, tel:
022 321 0028) The
very best in French
gastronomy is served
at this ornate and
luxurious Michelinstarred
restaurant. It’s
renowned for truffl e
delicacies and boasts
an extensive wine list.
Seven-course meals
are available, so come
hungry and linger
over a truly gourmet
experience.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Le
Scandale (24 Rue
FUERTEVENTURA WINTER WARMERS
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Corralejo Bay
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132 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Geneva
Switzerland
de Lausanne, tel: 022
731 8373) This smooth
lounge bar plays good
music and serves great
cocktails, while laidback
staff just add to the
chilled atmosphere.
LIVE MUSIC L’Usine
(4 Place des Volontaires,
tel: 022 781 3490)
This former factory
was transformed into
a home for alternative
culture and hosts a wide
range of concerts and
performances at very
reasonable prices.
LATE & LIVELY
Palais Mascotte
(43 Rue de Berne,
tel: 022 800 3333)
For something a little
different, try this lively
but classy cabaret and
burlesque club, complete
with restaurant and
bar, in Geneva’s (pretty
tame) red-light district.
THIS MONTH
SEE Cinéma
Tous Ecrans is the
International Film and
Television Festival,
which showcases an
international selection of
fi lms for television and
celebrates the whole
range of audiovisual
media. Look out for
various events in venues
across the city from 1–7
November (cinematous-ecrans.com).
GO The Palais des
Nations became the
European Offi ce of the
United Nations in 1946.
It is the second-mostimportant
centre of
the United Nations
after New York, and its
surface size is similar to
the Palais de Versailles.
Its Assembly Room,
which seats 2,000, is as
large as the Paris Opera
House. All in all it’s a good
place to go for a wander
to discover the world
of this international
organisation.
ESCAPE Lutry is
a picturesque, small
medieval town on
the lakeside just east
of Lausanne. Take a
stroll and admire the
beautiful views of the
Alps before stopping
at the busy Saturday
morning market, where
stylish locals stock up
for the weekend on
fresh produce. By car,
the town is under an
hour away, and there
are also links via
public transport.
NO WAY!
Of the 3.44 million
people who live and
work in Switzerland,
738,588 – 24% – speak
English at work.
Celeste Neill
BARAHOLKA
SHOP Geneva is
awash with luxury
brands but this
brilliant boutique
offers the same labels
for less. The shop
specialises in vintage
designer labels (8 Rue
du Conseil Général).
Gibraltar
UK Territory
DIALLING CODE +350
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £5.
Routes 3, 9 and
10 run every 10
minutes. Tickets: £0.90.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Mexican
Grill & Bar (Unit 2B,
The Tower, Marina
Bay, tel: 200 46668)
Ay caramba! All your
Mexican favourites are
here, including sizzling
fajitas, stuffed chilli
peppers, chimichangas,
burritos, and classic
red mole and delicious
cheese enchiladas.
EXCLUSIVE Bianca’s
(6–7 Admiral’s Walk,
Marina Bay, tel: 200
73379) Bianca’s
offers a great position
for yacht-spotting
on the quayside at
Marina Bay. The
diverse menu includes
such favourites as
Spanish-style swordfi sh
steak, smoked
salmon tagliatelle and
barbecued spare ribs.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Royal Oak
Bar (59C Irish Town, tel:
200 71708) Irish Town is
a good place to kick off
your night out and this
pub guarantees a warm
welcome and great ale.
LATE & LIVELY Rock
on the Rock Club
(41 Town Range, tel: 200
41104) Come here for
a regular line-up of live
bands, ranging from
heavy metal to soul.
Regular theme nights
are also organised,
which see plenty of
students bustling in
through the front door.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Handmade
glass has been made
in Gibraltar since 1994.
At Gibraltar Crystal on
Casemates Square,
you can watch the
glassblowers at work
and enjoy the extensive
display of items for sale,
ranging from delicate
wine glasses to larger
ornamental items
(gibraltar-crystal.com).
GO Vejer de la Frontera
is a postcard-pretty
mountaintop village
located 56km from the
Rock towards Cádiz.
Wander through the
tangle of cobbled
streets, visiting
intriguing artisan shops,
crusty local bars and
excellent restaurants.
NO WAY!
Gibraltar is the Gretna
Green of Europe, with
hundreds of couples
exchanging vows at
the Gibraltar Registry
Offi ce each year.
Josephine Quintero
Glasgow
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante, Belfast
(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,
Faro, Geneva, Ibiza,
London (LGW, LTN,
STN), Málaga, Majorca,
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £17.
Arriva Glasgow
Flyer Bus leaves
every 10 minutes.
Tickets: £4.20 single;
£6.50 open return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 The
Pipers’ Tryst (30–34
McPhater Street,
tel: 0141 353 5551) A
modern bar-restaurant
in the National Piping
Centre. Top-quality
food with fresh Scottish
produce is brought
out by effi cient and
friendly staff. A great
wee place to unwind
over a lunchtime or
pre-theatre menu at
reasonable prices. The
Cullen skink is a must!
UP TO €30 Collage,
Radisson SAS Hotel
(301 Argyle Street, tel:
Are you interested in advertising to
5m passengers per month?
Please contact our advertising sales team
on 0044 (0) 207 613 8796
0141 225 2046) Collage
has a soft and pleasant
ambience, and serves up
an excellent and varied
menu. Catering well for
the veggies, wine lovers
don’t miss out either,
with a great selection of
wines from around the
globe. On top of this, staff
are effi cient and friendly
– all the ingredients for
a nice night out.
UP TO €50 Two
Fat Ladies (118A
Blythswood Street, tel:
0141 847 0088) A very
popular restaurant,
which can make it tricky
to bag a table. Although
the fi sh dishes are
wonderful, the place
is renowned for its
veggie mains.
EXCLUSIVE Gandolfi
Fish (84–86 Albion
Street, tel: 0141 552
9475) This seafood
restaurant is located in
the Merchant City. In
2009 head chef Jamie
Donald was named
the Scottish seafood
chef of the year. Expect
wonderful fresh Scottish
mackerel, lobster and
crab with menu dishes
such as seafood bisque,
Cullen skink, fi sh cakes
and smoked salmon.
Much of the fresh
produce is sourced from
Barra island.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar
Gandolfi (64 Albion
Street, tel: 0141 552
4462) The bar is located
in the loft space above
Café Gandolfi . Warm
and cosy, it boasts
quirky wooden furniture
and an array
of premium drinks.
00000 EasyJet Sales 5mil Banner.indd 1 19/10/2010 09:41
TAXI
SINCE
1995

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in Gibraltar. 79% Merit Score.
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T + 41 22 322 21 00 I www.lacourdesaugustins.com

134 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Glasgow
Scotland
LIVE MUSIC
Scotia Bar (112
Stockwell Street, tel:
0141 552 8681) It claims
to be the oldest pub
in Glasgow, with low
ceilings, wooden beams
and a good collection of
vintage photographs.
Traditional music plays
every Wednesday, plus
rock and blues from
Thursday–Sunday.
LATE & LIVELY
Bennets (80–90
Glassford Street,
tel: 0141 552 5761)
Gay nightclub with a
city-centre location,
Bennets has been part
of the club scene for
years. With three bars,
you won’t have to wait
long to get one of the
promo drinks on offer.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Merchant
Square is close to
some of the most
exclusive retail shops
in Glasgow. It is located
on Candleriggs in The
Merchant City, minutes
away from Glasgow’s
main shopping area –
Buchanan Street and the
famous George Square.
SEE The University of
Glasgow’s Hunterian
Museum opened
its doors in 1807.
Scotland’s oldest public
museum, it is home
to a superb collection
of over one million
items ranging from
meteorites to mummies
(hunterian.gla.ac.uk).
GO Glasgay! is
Scotland’s annual
celebration of queer
L
P
N
Y O
for
2011 INTAKES
P
A
W
culture, and is in town
until 13 November.
Everything from
comedy, music, fi lm and
theatre, to nightclubs,
education events and
community art projects
feature (glasgay.co.uk).
ESCAPE The historic
town of Paisley lies only
12km from Glasgow.
There’s lots to see
including Paisley Abbey,
St Mirin’s Cathedral,
Paisley Museum, Sma
Shot Cottages and
Coats Observatory. On
Thursday nights during
the winter months the
observatory is open for
telescope viewings of
the night sky.
NO WAY!
The Boys Brigade was
founded in Glasgow on
4 October 1883 by Sir
William Alexander Smith.
From this one company
formed in Scotland,
the Boys Brigade has
grown into a worldwide
movement with millions
of members.
Evelyn McKechnie
GLASGOW
BEST WESTERN
★ ★ ★ ★★
The former
townhouse has a
new design set within
the traditional style
of the old building.
Breakfast included.
From €43, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
NEW FROM
2010
Gothenburg
Sweden
DIALLING CODE +46
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)
FLY FROM
Berlin, London
(LGW), Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
A local taxi costs
320SEK.
Flygbussarna
buses run to the
centre from 4am–11pm.
Tickets: 150SEK.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Bitter
(59 Linnégatan, tel:
031 249 120) Bars and
restaurants line up like
sardines in a can on
Linnégatan. The menu at
Bitter is a straightforward
fusion of the French,
Italian and American
kitchen. The strawberry
daiquiri is the signature
cocktail and Bitter claims
to serve over 7,000 of
these a year.
EXCLUSIVE
Thörnströms Kök
(3 Teknologgatan, tel:
031 162 066) Run by
celebrity chef Håkan
Thörnström, this
venue has a modern
Scandinavian menu
with Mediterranean
infl uences. The glazed
Sterling halibut, crispy
beef croquette, and fi llet
of lamb with sautéed
cabbage and roasted
garlic consommé
both come highly
recommended.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Soho (16
Östra Larmgatan, tel:
031 133 326) Soho is
a trendy hangout with
plenty of character.
Sit down next to the
fi replace or in the whitewashed
winter garden
with your choice from
the extensive wine list.
LATE & LIVELY
Nefertiti
(6 Hvitfeldsplatsen,
tel: 031 711 1533)
Established in 1978, this
legendary jazz venue is
more popular than ever.
Live bands and DJs play
jazz, blues and tango as
well as modern tunes.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Ragtime Second
Hand Shop is a luxury
vintage store that
stocks exclusive brands
and has two separate
shops for men’s and
women’s clothing
(15 Magasinsgatan).
SEE The Swedish
design group FRONT
works with everything
from traditional crafts
to the latest technology.
From 6 November
until January some of
their most fascinating
creations are exhibited
at Röhsska Museet
(37 Vasagatan).
NO WAY!
Gothenburg’s harbour
is the largest in
all Scandinavia.
Hedvig Andersson
Gran Canaria
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
Route 60 runs
to Parque Santa
Catalina and Parque San
Telmo. Tickets: €2.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Cofradia
de los Pescadores de
Arguineguin (Avenida
del Muelle, Arguineguín,
tel: 928 735 956) Run by
the regional fi sherman’s
association, this is the
place to fi nd the freshest
fi sh at the best prices.
The décor is simple and
the staff friendly.
EXCLUSIVE Anno
Domini (82 Calle San
Agustin, Playa del
Inglés, tel: 928 762
915) For a creative
culinary delight, this is
the place to come. Let
Jaques, the friendly
owner, recommend
a speciality from his
French-Italian menu. Or
try the fresh fi sh of the
day with a tasty sauce,
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accompanied by one of
the great wines on offer.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Sugar
Cocktail Lounge
(Centro Comercial
Puerto Rico) The ideal
place to spend a tranquil
night. There’s a delicious
and extensive cocktail
menu. Try the Red Bull
and strawberry vodka
cocktail – it’s to die for.
LATE & LIVELY
Buddies (131 Centro
Comercial Yumbo, Playa
del Ingles) A gay bar that
welcomes everyone,
offering entertainment
and good music every
night. There’s a camp
atmosphere and a warm
welcome is assured.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The La Marea
is a small and friendly
shopping centre. If you
visit on a Tuesday you
can combine it with a
visit to the local markets
in the town, which are
ideal for stocking up on
fresh fruit and vegetables
(Arguineguin).
SEE The Arc Race is
a massive yacht rally
starting off from Las
Palmas en route to the
Caribbean on the last
Sunday of November. On
21 November, head to
the port of Las Palmas
to see hundreds of
yachts starting their
journey – a truly
spectacular sight
(worldcruising.com/arc).
NO WAY!
The Yumbo Centre is
reputed to be the largest
gay centre in Europe.
Jan Cooney
159, Praed Street Paddington
W2 1RL Tel: 0207 262 2666

136 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Hamburg
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Manchester, London
(LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2005
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €22.
S1 S-Bahn trains
run frequently
until just after midnight.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Das
Seepferdchen am
Hafen (212 Grosse
Elbstrasse, tel: 040 3861
6749) Popular with the
in crowd, this seafood
eatery, within eyeshot
of the harbour, features
white linen-covered
tables accessorised
with retro seats and
communal benches.
EXCLUSIVE
Goldfi sch (1 Isekai,
tel: 040 5700 9690)
A modern canalside
winebar-come-eatery
that serves up arguably
Hamburg’s freshest
Mediterranean and
German cuisine to a
rarefi ed clientèle. It
features a superlative
rotating monthly menu.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Nouar
(275 Max Brauer Allee,
tel: 040 430 8949)
With its mismatched
furnishings, this
comfortable boîte in the
pulsing Schanzenviertel
quarter is popular
with thirtysomethings,
models and art students.
LATE & LIVELY
Angie’s (27–28
Spielbudenplatz, tel: 040
3177 8811) Reminiscent
of an old speakeasy, this
is one of the country’s
most illustrious
nightclubs. The DJs spin
everything from house to
trance and soul inside.
THIS MONTH
SHOP A mecca for
coffeeholics, this
attractive shop on the
stylish Mühlenkamp
offers the city’s best
selection of beans,
blends and beverages.
It also features elusive
teas and an artisanal
selection of accessories
(elbgoldkaffee.de).
GO Few sightseeing
trips are as unique as
the ones offered by
CityCopter. The fi rm
offers breathtaking
aerial trips in a helicopter
that take in Hamburg’s
leafy parks, shimmering
lakes and buzzy harbour
(citycopter.de).
NO WAY!
Travelling without
paying on Hamburg’s
public transport is
illegal. If stopped
without a valid ticket,
penalties are harsh, and
there’s no getting away
from them.
Farhad Heydari
Helsinki
Finland
DIALLING CODE +358
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Manchester, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
Route 615 runs
to Rautatientori.
Tickets: €4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Rosso
Citykäytävä (6
Keskuskatu, tel: 01
0766 4210) This venue
boasts swift service,
big portions of Italian
food with an eccentric
Finnish twist and a
great location on one
of the most important
shopping streets.
Lactose and gluten-free
meals are available.
EXCLUSIVE Farang
(3 Ainonkatu, tel: 09
454 4212) Centrally
located just behind
the Parliament House,
Farang is a relatively
new addition to the
capital’s culinary scene.
The menu represents
a vibrant and delicious
mix of Thai, Indonesian
and Vietnamese recipes.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Ahjo (Klaus
K Hotel, 2–4 Bulevardi,
tel: 020 770 4711)
Extremely stylish Ahjo is
situated inside the Klaus
K designer hotel and is
the perfect place for
a cocktail sundowner.
LATE & LIVELY DTM
(28 Iso Roobertinkatu,
tel: 010 841 6996) It’s
been around 20 years,
but the good old DTM
is still the most popular
(and straight-friendly)
gay club in the country.
DTM (Don’t Tell
Mamma) is a bright
and eccentric club, with
a separate smoking
bar upstairs, blackjack
tables and a disco.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Market
Square is the most
famous market in
Helsinki, located on the
South Harbour at the
end of Esplanade Park.
Buy a woollen scarf or
sip steaming coffee
from the tent nearby.
SEE On 21 November
the main shopping
street, Aleksanterinkatu,
turns into the offi cial
Christmas Street. The
programme starts at
Senate Square with
the switch-on of the
Christmas lights,
and continues with
a Christmas parade.
NO WAY!
Formerly a small
fi shing town, Helsinki
became a capital only
in 1812, succeeding
Turku, after Finland
had been annexed to
Russia in 1809.
Evgenia Ivanova
Hurghada
Egypt
DIALLING CODE +20
CURRENCY EGP
FLY FROM
Geneva,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
TERRES D’AMANAR
A NATURAL RESERVE OF ENERGY
FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT US:
www.terresdamanar.com - info@terresdamanar.com
+ 212 (0) 5 24 43 81 03 / + 212 (0) 6 61 76 21 08
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
The fare to Sakalla is
EGP15, El Dahar EGP20,
and further afi eld EGP30.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 White
Elephant Thai (El
Gouna Marina, tel: 010
102 5117) A fabulous
Thai venue with native
chefs using only the
JAZ MAKADI
GOLF
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
On the shores of
Madinat Makadi Bay,
the hotel is a golfer’s
paradise amid the blue
waters of the Red Sea.
Breakfast included.
From €38, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
freshest ingredients.
The beef green curry is
a fantastic main.
EXCLUSIVE Laguna
Restaurant (Hilton El
Nour Resort, Village
Road, tel: 065 346
5020) Fine dining
overlooking lush gardens
and the marina. The beef
carpaccio and the catch
of the day both come
highly recommended.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Kandi
Lounge (Hurghada
Marina) Running every
Sunday–Wednesday,
Hed Kandi is a cocktail
bar with free entry, and
a buy-one-get-one-free
offer on all cocktails.
LATE & LIVELY Hard
Rock Café (Village
Road, tel: 065 346 5170)
With ladies’ nights every
Tuesday and Friday and
late partying all week
this is the perfect place
to eat, drink and dance.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Cotton House
Karkoucha has the
widest selection of
Egyptian cotton towels,
bedding and clothing
in town. With three
branches on Sheraton
Road, this is the place to
come for bath and beach
towels and bed linen.
GO Sahl Hasheesh is a
new development, and
with its underwater city
and seaside promenade,
it makes an ideal day trip.
NO WAY!
Egypt’s total area is more
than 1,000,000km 2 ,
but only 6,000km 2 of
this is water.
Denise Fletcher

138 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Innsbruck
Austria
DIALLING CODE +43
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Liverpool,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Bus F runs to
the city every 15
minutes. Tickets: €1.70.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Kantine
(43 Mitterweg, tel: 0512
281 616) Local and
international cuisine
is what attracts the
people about town here:
go for the schnitzel in
chanterelle sauce or
sweet and sour chicken.
EXCLUSIVE Goldener
Adler (6 Herzog-
Friedrich-Strasse, tel:
0512 571 111) One of the
best addresses in town if
you want to try Austrian
haute cuisine in pristine
surroundings. The
menu includes regional
specialities such as
the venison steak with
mushroom dumplings.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Der Löwe
(8 Seilergasse, tel: 0512
565 444) The relaxing
atmosphere of the bar,
with its lounge music
and delicious roast beef
sandwich – the perfect
accompaniment to the
beer, is the right thing
if you are looking for an
alternative to clubbing.
LATE & LIVELY
Treibhaus (8
Angerzellgasse, tel:
0512 586 874) The café
of the cultural society
Treibhaus attracts
an amazingly mixed
crowd, from students
to musicians and
journalists, making it the
right place to mix it up
with the locals. Live jazz
sessions are organised
on Tuesdays, too.
THIS MONTH
SHOP If you’re
passionate about skiing,
you will love the new
store Kneissl. It offers
everything you’ll need
for winter activities from
clothing to ski boots,
accessories and repair
kits for your skiing
equipment (2 Maria-
Theresien-Strasse, tel:
0512 582 592).
GO Catch the
Nordkettenbahn cable
car and enjoy the fi rst
snow of the season. It
takes only 20 minutes
from the city centre to
the mountain, where
you can ski, hike or
sunbathe all day long.
NO WAY!
Kneissl, founded in
1861 in Tyrol, was
the fi rst Austrian ski
manufacturer, and in
1992 it was the fi rst to
produce carving skies.
Jovanna Urosevic
Inverness
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Bristol, London
(LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1996
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs £14–£19.
Jet buses run to
Nairns and
Inverness (thejet.co.uk).
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Culloden
Moor Inn (Culloden
Moor, tel: 01463 790
022) This popular local
restaurant has huge
portions and friendly
staff who encourage
people to come back
time and time again.
EXCLUSIVE Rocpool
Reserve (Culduthel
Road, tel: 01463 240
089) If you have an
appetite for top-notch
Scottish cuisine
accompanied by fi ne
wine, this place promises
the ultimate dining
experience. End your
evening with the apricot
and orange tart – divine!
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Copper Kettle Bar
(Glenurquhart Road,
tel: 01463 231 248) A
buzzing little nightspot,
this sets a cosy
ambience for a relaxed
evening out, with an
open fi re, a well-stocked
bar and an excellent
range of light snacks
and meals. You’ll want to
settle in for the night and
hear a few local tales, too.
LATE & LIVELY
Bakoo (39 High Street,
tel: 01463 235 506)
Since opening in 2003,
Bakoo has effortlessly
established itself as the
coolest club in town,
regularly attracting
big-name guests.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Castle Gallery
showcases landscape,
fi gurative and abstract
work by established
and emerging artists
from across Scotland
and throughout the
UK (Castle Street,
tel: 01463 729 512).
SEE The eighth annual
Inverness Film Festival,
from 23–26 November,
will take place this
year at Eden Court.
The Festival promises
an array of short
movies from talented
and new fi lmmakers,
with feature fi lms,
music and evening
entertainment for
all (invernessfi lm
festival.com).
NO WAY!
Tomatin Distillery, in
south-east Inverness,
is one of the highest
distilleries in Scotland,
sitting at 313 metres
above sea level.
Beverley Tricker
Isle of Man
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Liverpool
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
NEW FROM
2010
Pre book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £15.
Buses run every
half an hour.
Tickets: £2.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Coasters
(12–14 Clinches Court,
North Quay, Douglas, tel:
01624 616 020) With its
Little Amigos menu, this
laidback Mexican eatery
SAYLE
GALLERY
SEE Marvel at the
paintings of Paul
Parker, in addition
to kiln-fused glass
pieces from McNeill
Glass, in a modern
seaside space from
5–28 November (1–
3 Harris Promenade).
is a popular choice
with families.
EXCLUSIVE
Macfarlane’s (24 Duke
Street, Douglas, tel:
01624 624 777) The
dishes served at this
family-run restaurant
put an emphasis on
local seafood, with a
blackboard advertising
the day’s specials. The
assiette of desserts is
a treat for sweettoothed
diners.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The Creek
Inn (The Quayside, tel:
01624 842 216) A locals’
favourite that provides
a warm welcome on a
winter’s night, offering
a selection of ales,
including Manx
brew Okells.
LATE & LIVELY
Colours Sports
Bar (Hilton, Central
Promenade, Douglas,
tel: 01624 662 662)
Multiple big screens
attract sports fans to
this hotel bar, which
turns into a lively venue
for socialising until
3.30am at weekends.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Port Erin
Gaslight & Aerated
Waters Co Ltd store lives
up to its quirky name by
offering a wide selection
of unusual Manx-themed
products (2 Malew
Street, Castletown).
NO WAY!
Manx Gaelic went into
decline in the 19th
century, but has recently
been revived and can be
studied at school.
Kate Youde

140 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Istanbul
Turkey
DIALLING CODE +90
CURRENCY Lira (TRY)
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
London (LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2006
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs TRY35.
E3 buses run
hourly to 4 Levent.
Tickets: TRY4.50, where
the metro goes to
Taksim Square. Havas
buses meet fl ights and
run to Taksim Square.
Tickets: TRY12.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Taj Mahal
(4A Nergiz Sokak, Tunel,
Beyoglu, tel: 0212 293
6600) Newly opened,
unlicensed Indian
restaurant with
a comprehensive
menu. Close to Sishane
metro station.
EXCLUSIVE Refi k
(10 Buyukparmakkapi
Sokak) Refi k is reputed
to be the last Greek-run
restaurant in town, and
is certainly one of the
longest-serving. Expect
a dedicated, old-school
take on mezze, kebabs
and fi sh – washed down
with raki or wine.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Galata
Ritim (3 Galata Kulesi
Sok, Beyoglu, tel: 0212
292 4929) Grab a seat
in this funky café bar,
sitting in the shadow of
Galata Tower, in the heart
of the newly discovered
Galata district, where all
the cool people hang out.
LATE & LIVELY The
Hall (7 Küçük Bayram
Sokak, Beyoglu, tel: 0212
244 8737) Armenian
church hall-turnedcutting-edge
nightclub,
The Hall offers live music
and themed DJ nights –
all with the full blessing
of the church next door.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Cukurcuma is
the warren of streets
around Beyoglu’s
Cukurcuma Sokak.
Explore the many
antique shops offering
everything from marble
to vintage vinyl.
SEE Excavations
for a new metro line
unearthed the remains
of 34 Byzantine cargo
ships and 8,500-yearold
graves. These
incredible fi nds are on
display this month at
Istanbul Archeology
museum (Osman
Hamdi Bey Yokusu).
NO WAY!
The recent renovation
of the Pera Palas Hotel
revealed 5,000 pieces
of antique silver locked
in a hidden basement.
Most are now in use
in the hotel’s Agatha
Restaurant, named after
Agatha Christie, who was
once a regular guest.
David O’Byrne
Jersey
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Liverpool
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £16.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Bon
Viveur (Le Boulevard,
St Aubin, tel: 01534 741
049) This comfortable,
busy restaurant serves
a mixture of classic
Mediterranean dishes,
such as Fegato alla
Veneziana, and house
specialities, such as
crispy duck with black
pepper sauce.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Dog &
Sausage (9 Halket
Street, St Helier, tel:
01534 730 982) A true
locals’ pub with a wide
range of beers and real
ales, right in the heart of
the pedestrian precinct.
LATE & LIVELY
Offi ce Bar (Hope
Street, St Helier, tel:
01534 723 687) Live
groups, including Irish
bands, alternate with
DJs and karaoke in this
small and lively pub just
off Liberation Square.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Liberty Wharf
is an impressively
converted abattoir, and
Jersey’s equivalent
of London’s Covent
Garden, with a range of
shops. Fashion boutique
Eclectics and home
interiors specialist
Exquisite are good
places to start your
shopping spree.
SEE Among the many
organised walks offered
by the tourist board is
the Moon Walk, which
takes you along the
seabed normally covered
by over 12-metre tides
towards Seymour Tower,
2.4km out to sea.
NO WAY!
Only seven puffi ns have
been counted along
the breeding grounds
on Jersey’s north
coast, meaning that
the species could be
heading for extinction.
Peter Body
EXCLUSIVE
Sirocco (Liberation
Square, St Helier, tel:
01534 720 511) The
pricey tasting menu
features scallops, a
duo of foie gras, panroasted
turbot, and
loin of lamb, to name
just a few.
Krakow
Poland
DIALLING CODE +48
CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)
FLY FROM
Belfast (BFS),
Bristol, Dortmund,
Edinburgh, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs PLN80.
Trains leave every
30 minutes for
the main station from
4.24am–00.15am.
Tickets: PLN6.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 U Babci
Maliny (17 Ulica
Slawkowska, tel: 012
422 7601) Taking kitsch
to glorious new heights,
“Grandma Raspberry”
serves up all the stodgy
Polish classics at
budget-friendly prices.
UP TO €30
Marchewka z
Groszkiem (2 Ulica
Mostowa, tel: 012 430
0795) Ideally positioned
en route to the new
footbridge between
Kazimierz and Podgorze,
this traditional Polish
restaurant boasts
understated elegance
and eminently
reasonable prices.
UP TO €50 Hard Rock
Cafe (Plac Mariacki,
tel: 012 429 1155)
Regardless of whether
you’ve seen it all before,
this brand-new outlet
does indeed boast one
of the most sensational
views in the city, making
the second-fl oor bar
and restaurant, with its
sweeping panorama of
St Mary’s, feel every inch
a stairway to heaven.
EXCLUSIVE
Restaurant Wierzynek
(15 Rynek Glowny, tel:
012 424 9600) With a
heritage that stretches
back several centuries,
and a name that’s not
so easy to pronounce
for non-Slavs,
Wierzynek has served
up Polish classics to
everyone from Robert
de Niro to King Juan
Carlos of Spain.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Pierwszy
lokal na Stolarskiej po
lewej stronie idac od
Malego Rynku
(6 Ulica Stolarska, tel:
012 431 2441) With a
long-winded name like
this (“The fi rst local on
Stolarska Street on the
left, heading from the
Little Market Square”)
you should at least be
able to fi nd the venue.
Yet besides a potty
name, visitors can enjoy
beer, coffee and more in
laidback surroundings.
LIVE MUSIC Harris
Piano Jazz Bar (28
Rynek Glowny, tel: 012
421 5741) The fi rst 10
days of November see
the time-honoured All

Souls Jazz Festival, now
in its 55th incarnation,
hit town. Catch some of
the main action at Harris
Bar on the main square.
LATE & LIVELY Club
Rdza (3–5 Ulica Bracka)
If alcohol is your poison,
an evening spent swilling
beer in a medieval
cellar is a Krakow rite
of passage. This newly
renovated club is
recommended if you like
having your ears boxed
by thumping beats
amid a restless crowd of
dolled-up students.
THIS MONTH
SHOP After a four-year
renovation, the Cloth Hall
– the magnifi cent edifi ce
that bestrides the central
square – has fi nally
reopened. Inside, you’ll
fi nd countless stalls
selling local souvenirs.
SEE Film buffs have
a treat in store in the
shape of the 17th Etiuda
and Anima Festival
(starting 19 November
and running for more
than a month). This
prestigious event
sees stars from the
animated galaxy
descend on Krakow,
plus competitions
showcasing
budding directors
(etiudaandanima.com).
GO Rather than try and
pretend it’s summer,
it’s best to embrace
the gothic charm of
the Polish November.
Head to Krakow’s most
beautiful necropolis,
Cmentarz Rakowicki, to
witness the magical All
Saints and All Souls on
1–2 November. Tombs
are festooned with
fl owers and candles,
echoing an ancient
pagan rite.
ESCAPE It’s not every
day that you get the
chance to behold an
underground cathedral,
carved entirely from
salt. Alright, so it hasn’t
been given cathedral
status, but the sweeping
19th-century chapel in
the Wieliczka Salt Mines
is one of the wonders
of Poland. Perfect for a
rainy day out of the city,
it’s only a 20-minute
journey away.
NO WAY!
According to legend, a
pint-sized devil dressed
in a curious mixture of
German and Spanish
garb inhabits the cellars
beneath the square.
Search him out at
the newly opened – and
vast – subterranean
museum, which
looks set to be
one of Krakow’s
star attractions.
Nick Hodge/
cracow-life.com
GRAND
KRAKOW
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Great care has been
taken to restore the
historical interiors,
while it’s elegance has
never failed to impress.
Breakfast included.
From €58, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
Lamezia
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Milan (MXP),
Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Routes 4 and 5
go to the centre.
Tickets: €0.77.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Il
Capriccio Pizzeria
Rosticceria (70 Via
Santa Maria Nuestra,
Catanzaro, tel: 0961 769
553) This informal eatery
has a healthy selection of
pizzas, arancini rice balls
and panini. It delivers
in the Santa Maria area
and is a nice option for
travellers who would just
prefer to order in.
EXCLUSIVE Trattoria
Max (75–81 Via
Togliatti, Cirò Marina,
tel: 0962 373 009) This
traditional trattoria is in
the heart of Calabria’s
wine country and serves
hearty fare, such as
potatoes and peppers,
homemade pasta with
a spicy salami sauce
and porcini mushrooms.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Il Salumaio
(132 Corso Mazzini,
Cosenza, tel: 0984
23304) Salumaio is a
good choice for postdinner
wine or cocktails.
Find it on the busy
Corso Mazzini.
LATE & LIVELY
Antica Traccia (Via
II Circonvallazione,
Taurianova, tel: 0966
610 810) Almost every
night of the week, Antica
Traccia showcases some
form of entertainment,
ranging from live music
to karaoke to comedy
shows and Latin dance
nights. One thing’s for
sure with all of them
though: you’re in for
a good night out.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For more than
50 years, Caseifi cio
Macri has been
producing homemade
Calabrian cheese and
dairy products that are
melt-in-your-mouth
delicious (2 Viale
Europa, Satriano).
SEE November is
chestnut season in
Calabria, so look out
for Castagna festivals
throughout the region,
most notably in Davoli
and Savelli, where all of
the town plazas will be
fi lled with the smell of
roasting chestnuts.
NO WAY!
The Pollino mountain
range extends from
northern Calabria, and
at 193,000 hectares, it
is the largest national
park in Italy.
Cherrye Moore/
my-bellavita.com
DESTINATION GUIDES | 141
Lanzarote
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Liverpool, London
(LGW), Madrid
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €12.
On routes 22 and
23, buses stop at
Playa del Reducto and
Arrecife’s bus station,
from 7am–10.25pm.
Tickets: €1.15.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Bar Stop
(Calle La Cuesta, Yaiza)
For a truly non-touristy
and authentically local
version of tapas, step
into this unassuming
little bar at lunchtime.
You’ll fi nd it just
opposite the church.
EXCLUSIVE Isla de
Lobos (Hotel Princesa
Yaiza, Playa Blanca, tel:
928 519 222) This fi ne
restaurant specialises
in “slow food”, using the
best of local produce,
such as black Canary
Island suckling pig.
With great service and
stunning views over
Playa Dorada and across
to Fuerteventura, you
won’t be disappointed
by this all-rounder.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Orient
Express (2 Plaza Pueblo
Marinero, Costa Teguise,
tel: 928 591 016) Start
the evening off over a
cocktail or beer in this
chilled-out Asian-themed
bar in Costa Teguise.
LATE & LIVELY
Danceclub 928
(Avenida de las Playas,
tel: 928 841 394) This
is the place for the real
night owls in Puerto
del Carmen. It opens at
midnight but doesn’t get
really busy until about
3am, and the party
keeps going until 6am!
THIS MONTH
SHOP With an eclectic
mix of upmarket gifts –
everything from interior
design items to clothes
to cigar cutters – Palm
Centre is a great place
to fi nd something to
take home with you
(Edifi cio Aparthotel
Los Fariones, Puerto
del Carmen).
GO Puerto Calero is
a pretty and upmarket
marina, located just
south of Puerto del
Carmen. It’s well worth a
visit for its fi ne selection
of waterside bars, cafés
and restaurants.
NO WAY!
Flying fi sh can often
be seen on marine
excursions and ferry
trips around Lanzarote.
They have been
captured on fi lm fl ying
for up to 45 seconds!
Ashley Wootton/
Discover Lanzarote.com

142 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Lisbon
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Barcelona, Basel-
Mulhouse, Berlin, Bristol,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Liverpool, London (LGW,
LTN), Lyon, Madeira,
Madrid, Milan (MXP),
Paris (CDG), Rome
(FCO), Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2005
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
The Aerobus
leaves every 20
minutes. Tickets: €3.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Kaffeehaus (3 Rua
Anchieta, tel: 21 095
6825) A Viennese treat
in the heart of Lisbon.
Just around the corner
from the São Carlos
Theatre, this elegant
yet laidback café serves
Austrian specialities,
among other dishes.
UP TO €30 Cervejaria
da Trindade (20C
Rua Nova da Trindade,
tel: 21 342 3506) This
big, clattery beer hall
specialises in seafood
and, yes, beer. Situated in
a 12th-century convent,
there is lots to look
at, too – the walls are
adorned with thousands
of beautiful tiles. Open
daily until 2am.
UP TO €50 100
Maneiras (35 Rua do
Teixeira, tel: 21 099
0475) One of Lisbon’s
most talented chefs,
the Yugoslav Ljumomir
Stanisic, has recently
moved his highly
successful restaurant
from Cascais to the
Bairro Alto. The prices
are now signifi cantly
lower, but without
sacrifi cing on quality.
Expect the freshest
ingredients and a
constantly changing
and creative menu.
EXCLUSIVE Cipriani
(Lapa Palace Hotel, 4
Rua do Pau de Bandeira,
Lapa, tel: 21 394 9401)
This elegant dining
room, housed in a
19th-century palace set
amid romantic gardens,
serves a luxurious menu
that is predominantly
Italian but usually
includes a Portuguese
dish or two. There’s an
excellent wine list and
impeccable service, too.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Supercalifragilistic
(98 Rua dos Remédios)
A far cry from the ugly
tiles and Formica tables
of the old-style joints,
this is one of the new
breed of Alfama bars.
Expect cocktails, wines,
interesting bar snacks,
a menu featuring
inventive interpretations
of Portuguese classics,
and a youthful crowd.
Open 6pm–2am.
LIVE MUSIC Clube
de Fado (94 Rua São
João da Praça, tel: 21
885 2704) An aristocrat
among fado houses, this
is the place to hear the
city’s best professional
fado – Lisbon blues – in
a lovely old building.
LATE & LIVELY Mini
Mercado (67 Avenida
Dom Carlos I, Santos,
tel: 21 895 5957) An
intimate, cabaret-style
venue, Mini Mercado
is popular with locals
who come to hear hip
hop and the occasional
live act. Doors open
at 11pm, and the night
goes on till late.
THIS MONTH
SHOP With over 140
shops Freeport Leisure
centre is an outlet that
will please the most
discerning shopper. In
nearby Alcochete, this
is the place to fi nd new
designer-wear to take
home. It’s a 40-minute
drive out of Lisbon, but
there are regular shuttle
buses (freeport.pt).
SEE From 22
November, the English
Theatre presents The
Importance of Being
Earnest (10 Rua da
Estrela, tel: 21 396 1946,
lisbonplayers.com.
pt). Alternatively, the
Columbian diva Shakira
will be at the Atlantic
Pavilion on 21 November
(pavilhaoatlantico.pt).
GO The Alfama district
is steeped in history
and can claim to be
the true heart of the
city. While still highly
traditional in many ways,
this village-like maze of
traffi c-free alleyways and
steps has undergone a
transformation in the
last few years and is now
home to a number of
trendy bars. It can only
be explored on foot, after
alighting tram No. 28.
ESCAPE An
interesting day
out is a visit to the
fortifi cations built in
the early 1800s on the
orders of Wellington,
to stop Napoleon in his
Peninsula Campaign.
A pleasant trip might
be to Arruda dos
Vinhos, where there are
a couple of excellent
restaurants (O Fuso and
O Nazareth). Two of the
forts, Forte do Carvalho
and Forte do Cego, are
well signposted from
the town, which is about
an hour from Lisbon.
NO WAY!
The Águas Livres
aqueduct, built in the
mid-18th century,
amazingly survived
the devastating
1755 earthquake.
Jonathan Weightman
HOTEL
LUTECIA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
The smart, urban and
modern Hotel Lutecia
offers the perfect place
to stay and relax after
exploring the city.
Breakfast Included.
From €89, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Liverpool
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Barcelona,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bodrum, Bordeaux,
Brussels, Dubrovnik,
Faro, Fuerteventura,
Geneva, Grenoble,
Ibiza, Innsbruck, Isle of
Man, Jersey, Krakow,
Lanzarote, Lisbon, Lyon,
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,
Malta, Menorca, Naples,
Nice, Paris (CDG),
Rhodes, Salzburg, Tallinn
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1997
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £15.
The 500 departs
every 30 minutes
for the city centre.
Tickets: £2.60.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Egg
Café (2nd Floor, 16–18
Newington, tel: 0151
707 2755) It’s worth the
climb up two fl ights of
stairs for Egg’s happy,
welcoming ambience.
Take your own wine
(there’s a small corkage
charge) to accompany
the top-value vegetarian
food. Many of the dishes,
including the aubergine
curry, are vegan, and
they also serve fabulous,
home-baked cakes.
UP TO €30 Salt
House Tapas (Salt
House, Hanover Street,
tel: 0151 706 0092) The
service is outstanding at
this very modern tapas
bar in a characterful
listed building, once the
home of the Archdeacon
of Liverpool. Look out
for the acorn-fed Iberico
hams, roasted butternut
squash with goats curd
and spiced almond
crumbs, plus good
Spanish wines
and sherries.
UP TO €50 The
Side Door (29A Hope
Street, tel: 0151 709
3924) Located in the
city’s so-called cultural
quarter, The Side Door
is friendly and intimate,
and merits an entry in
the latest Good Food
Guide. The bistro menu
puts emphasis on
locally supplied produce
and encompasses
delights like slowcooked
hake fi llet with
potatoes and peppers.
EXCLUSIVE The
Swan Inn (Springfi eld
Road, Aughton,
Ormskirk, tel: 01695
421 450) Celebrity chef
Marco Pierre White
promises “affordable
glamour” at this, one of
his newest restaurants,
amid crisp white linen
and swish surroundings,
just 30 minutes by
car, or a 20-minute
walk from Town Green
Station. A brasserie-style
menu blends traditional
pub fare with English-
French cooking.

More than Wood
Producers of Wood Plastic Composite
www.epw.pt | info@epw.pt

144 | DESTINATION GUIDES
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Everyman
Bar and Bistro (5–9
Hope Street, tel: 0151
708 9545) A Liverpool
institution, the ever
popular basement bar
attracts an arty crowd
into a wide-open space
fi lled with refectorystyle
tables. There are
plenty of wines sold by
the glass and the tasty
food includes excellent
vegetarian choices.
LIVE MUSIC 02
Academy (11–13
Hotham Street, tel:
0151 707 3200) With
a 1,200-capacity main
hall and smaller venue
below, November
gigs at the 02 include
a highly acclaimed,
stripped-down threeman
acoustic show
from ex-Cockney Rebel
star Steve Harley (12th).
LATE & LIVELY Alma
de Cuba (St Peter’s
Church, Seel Street,
tel: 0151 702 7394)
This award-winning bar,
stunningly converted
from a 200-year-old
church, has a high
marble altar and
thousands of candles,
which bring to mind its
former life. Brazilian
dancers and petal
drops create a carnival
atmosphere every
weekend from 11pm.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Along with
branches in nearby Bold
Street, Utility specialises
in unusual designer
goods, from big brands
to small independents.
The range includes a
curved banana guard,
and a towel and toilet roll
stand from top Italian
designer Piero Lissoni.
Whatever you need for
your home, you’ll fi nd it
here (8 Paradise Place,
utilitydesign.co.uk).
SEE Frank, funny, and
packed with hit songs,
Hit Me! The Life and
Rhymes of Ian Dury is
a critically acclaimed
account of the life of
one of pop music’s
great talents. On show
at the Everyman Theatre
from 9–12 November
(Hope Street).
GO With 160 stores, 20
restaurants – including
French, Italian and
Japanese – and a
cinema complex across
17 hectares, Liverpool
One is one of Europe’s
biggest city-centre retail
developments and the
prime focus for city
shoppers (liverpoolone.com).
ESCAPE The Blue
Planet Aquarium, home
to one of the world’s
longest underwater
viewing tunnels, is only a
30-minute drive from the
city. Latest attractions
include the chance to
come face to face with
some of the world’s
deadliest creatures,
including Stonefi sh, the
most lethal fi sh on earth,
and 50 giant spiders in
the Tarantula Tower.
NO WAY!
The world’s fi rst port
radar system was
installed at Liverpool’s
Gladstone Dock in 1948.
It allowed the monitoring
of all shipping in the
River Mersey and
approach channels.
Gerry Corner
Ljubljana
Slovenia
DIALLING CODE +386
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (STN),
Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €45.
Buses leave every
hour. Tickets: €4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 La Storia
(3 Linhartova, tel: 01 234
4592) A little out of the
centre, but worth a trek
for its decent attempt
at Italian cooking with
a little slice of Italian
ambience mixed in, too.
EXCLUSIVE JB (17
Miklošiceva, tel: 01 474
7219) At its best, JB is
pretty fl awless. Burn
your credit card along
with the appreciative
business crowd at this
slick operator. Any dish
with truffl es is a winner,
as are the well-chosen
Slovenian wines.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Wine
Cellars of Slovenia
(18 Dunajska, tel: 01
431 5015) You could be
forgiven for not knowing
that Slovenia’s wine is
excellent as it is seldom
exported. The highlights
are from Goriska Brda
and the Vipava Valley.
LATE & LIVELY Sub
Sub (25 Celovska) The
name makes it sound like
an out-and-out house
venue, but this place
actually boasts a fairly
eclectic range of club
nights. The fun, up-for-it
crowd makes every night
feel like a party night.
THIS MONTH
SHOP All sorts of chic
and stylish wares are
on sale at Trgovina Ika.
Browse everything from
ceramics and scarves
through to necklaces
(13 Ciril Metodov Trg,
tel: 01 232 1743).
NO WAY!
Legend has it that Jason
and his Argonauts
sailed up the Ljubljanica
river, slaying a dragon
here and founding the
city in the process.
Robin McKelvie/
robinmckelvie.com
LJUBLJANA
CASTLE
GO Casting a
dramatic shadow
over the city, hike
up to the castle. It’s
worth the effort to
see the museum
and sweeping views
of the city and
the mountains.
SINCE
1995
London
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Aberdeen,
Agadir, Alicante,
Almería, Amsterdam,
Antalya, Asturias,
Athens, Barcelona,
Basel-Mulhouse,
Bastia (Corsica), Berlin,
Belfast (BHD, BFS),
Biarritz, Bilbao, Bodrum,
Bordeaux, Budapest,
Cagliari (Sardinia),
Cologne/Bonn,
Copenhagen, Corfu,
Corsica (Ajaccio), Corsica
(Bastia), Crete (Chania),
Crete (Heraklion), Cyprus
(Larnaca), Cyprus
(Paphos), Dalaman,
Dortmund, Dubrovnik,
Düsseldorf, Edinburgh,
Faro, Fuerteventura,
Geneva, Gibraltar,
Glasgow, Gothenburg,
Gran Canaria, Grenoble,
Hamburg, Helsinki,
Hurghada, Ibiza,
Innsbruck, Istanbul,
Inverness, Kos, Krakow,
Lanzarote, La Rochelle,
Lisbon, Ljubljana, Luxor,
Lyon, Madeira, Madrid,
Majorca, Málaga, Malta,
Marrakech, Marseille,
Menorca, Milan (MXP,
LIN), Montpellier,
Munich, Murcia,
Mykonos, Nantes, Naples,
Nice, Newcastle, Olbia,
Palermo, Paris (CDG),
Pisa, Porto, Prague,
Rhodes, Rome (FCO),
Salzburg, Santorini,
Sharm El Sheikh, Sofi a,
Split, Tallinn, Tel Aviv,
Tenerife, Thessaloniki,
Toulouse, Turin, Valencia,
Venice, Vienna, Zagreb,
Zante, Zürich.
FROM THE
AIRPORT
LUTON
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com
A local taxi costs £100
to central London.
National Express
tickets can be
bought onboard.
Tickets: £14 single; £19
return. Ask your cabin
crew for details.
easyBus, runs a
24-hour coach
service to London
Victoria. Tickets:
from £2 single online
(easyJet.com).
Trains from Luton
Airport Parkway go
to London St Pancras.
Tickets: £12 single
(fi rstcapital
connect.co.uk).
GATWICK
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com
A local taxi costs £100
to London.
easyBus runs a
24-hour minibus
from north and south
terminals to Earl’s Court/
West Brompton. Tickets
from £2 single online
(easyJet.com).
The Gatwick
Express to London
Victoria runs every
15 minutes from
4.35am–1.35am.
Exclusive easyJet
discounted fares
available when you buy
onboard. Ask your cabin
crew for details.

It‘s time to jump the line!
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Not here!!!!
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VISIT US AT THE LONDON FERTILITY SHOW, 5-6 Nov. Olympia

146 | DESTINATION GUIDES
London
UK
TAXI
STANSTED
A local taxi costs
£120 to London.
National Express
runs a bus service
to London Victoria.
Tickets: £17 return.
easyBus runs a
24-hour minibus
service to Baker Street
Underground Station.
Tickets: from £2 single
online (easyJet.com).
The Stansted
Express runs every
15–30 minutes until
00.30am. Exclusive
easyJet discounted
fares available when you
buy onboard. Ask your
cabin crew for details.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Patisserie
Valerie (44 Old
Compton Street, W1,
tel: 020 7437 3466)
Those with a sweet
tooth should make
a beeline for this
honeypot of cakes,
pastries and puds. The
patisserie is so popular
you could struggle
to get a table. This
venue on Old Compton
Street is pretty central,
but there are also
branches in Covent
Garden, Marylebone,
Knightsbridge, Belgravia
and Kensington.
UP TO €30 The
Compass (58 Penton
Street, N1, tel: 020
7837 3891) Cornering
the market on Sunday
afternoons in Islington,
The Compass offers
traditional lunches
featuring locally
sourced fare. This pub-
bistro venue has the
chefs working alongside
the bar tenders, the
day’s specials chalked
up on blackboards and
even the occasional
well-behaved dog in the
corner! Tuck in to roast
beef, pork, chicken or
an inspirational veggie
equivalent. Wash all of
this down with a glass
of wine, real ale or the
house speciality – a
Bloody Mary. Finish off
an idyllic lazy Sunday
with a portion of bread
and butter pudding.
UP TO €50 Shaka
Zulu (Stables Market,
NW1, tel: 020 3376
9911) With more bling
than you would see in a
African Princess’ Palace,
Shaka Zulu is not for
those who want a quiet
inconspicuous meal,
but it is still fun. Start
off on the bar level with
a cocktail in hand – the
Madagascan Margarita
is a zingy refreshment
– before moving down
to the grand tables and
chairs on the second
level, where the food
is served. The Taste of
Africa menu, is not for
the vegetarians out
there, with South African
specialities such as beef
biltong, and a sevenhour
spit-roast lamb
on the menu.
Del’Aziz (11
Bermondsey Square, tel:
020 7407 2991) Del’Aziz
boasts a sumptuous
Moroccan atmosphere,
with its big cushions and
exotic food, featuring
delicious meat kebabs
with spicy potatoes,
organic burgers or plum
and almond lamb tagine.
EXCLUSIVE Nahm
(The Halkin Hotel,
Halkin Street, SW1, tel:
020 7333 1234) Among
the pretty white houses
of Belgravia sits the
intimate restaurant of
this hotel. Owned by the
Michelin-starred chef,
David Thompson, his
aim was to create Thai
food done “really well”,
and he has succeeded
in his mission. From
coconut cup cakes with
red curry crab to green
curry of crispy sea bass,
most of the dishes are
delicious. This place is
a real treat.
Sake no Hana (23 St
James’ Street, SW1,
tel: 020 7925 8988)
Recently the head
chef, Daisuke Hayashi,
unveiled his new menu
for his loyal clientèle
at this swish Japanese
restaurant, in the
centre of town, and he
surpassed his already
brilliant creations. The
chilled out interiors
make you feel like you’re
in Tokyo and the lunch
RAMADA
ENCORE WEST
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
The hotel offers a fresh,
stylish and vibrant
atmosphere, with all
the city’s hotspots
minutes away.
Breakfast included.
From €93, book at
hotels.easyJet.com
or dinner menus always
impress. Try the rib-eye
beef tataki with sesame
dressing – divine.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Old
Blue Last (39 Great
Eastern Street) This
self-consciously shabby
pub, owned by fashion
mag Vice, is generally
home to an interesting
collection of Hoxton
friends enjoying a pint
or two. On Sundays
there’s regularly a craft
or vintage fair with an
interesting collection.
LIVE MUSIC The
Roundhouse (Chalk
Farm Road, NW1, tel:
0870 389 1846) One
of London’s most
prominent live music
venues, this magnifi cent
example of 19th-century
architecture has hosted
plenty of music legends
in its day, including Jimi
Hendrix and Pink Floyd.
The schedule is fi lled
with a myriad of up-andcoming
bands. Marina
and the Diamonds plays
as part of a packed
November programme
on the 8th.
LATE & LIVELY
Barrio Central (6
Poland Street, W1, tel:
020 3230 1002) Sister
venue of the successful
Barrio Norte in Islington,
Barrio Central has got
off to a nice start over
the past few months,
no doubt thanks to its
superb collection of
cocktails. The happy
hour encourages guests
to get a little merry as
they sample almost
every concoction on
the menu, and it lasts
‘The theatre event of the decade.’ Sunday Times
Supported by
Arts Council England
War Horse
based on a novel by Michael Morpurgo adapted by Nick Stafford
in association with Handspring Puppet Company
New London Theatre warhorselondon.com
for four hours from
4pm–8pm. After 11pm
the fun really starts
when downstairs
gets going and Latin
music warms the cold
November nights.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Mayfair’s
Burlington Arcade
houses a wealth of
fantastic independent
shops, and is everything
the high street should
still be. Heming has
been a jewellers since
1745, and has a fresh
collection of sparkling
rings out for Winter
2010, lightening up the
shop window (18–19
Burlington Arcade, W1).
SEE An adaptation of
Oscar Wilde’s An Ideal
Husband opens at the
Vaudeville Theatre
on 10 November. The
original play was a great,
old-school insight into
politicians and morality,
and this re-work, by
Lindsay Posner is equally
as good, with husband
and wife team Alexander
Hanson and Samantha
Bond acting together
for the fi rst time (The
Strand, anidealhusband
westend.com).
GO At this time of
year the weather is
unpredictable and
planning a trip out in
the open may be a little
optimistic. With this
in mind, a foray from
bar-to-bar and visiting
a few well-condensed
museums, restaurants
and cinemas may be
a better option. From
Leicester Square you
can go for a bite in
Chinatown, then watch
a matinee performance
in one of the cinemas.
Finally, the National
Portrait gallery is not too
far away to spend a few
hours wandering around
some national treasures
(St Martin’s Place, WC1).
ESCAPE Less than an
hour outside of London
by train lies Horsham, a
charming market town
in Sussex surrounded
by wide expansive areas
of parkland – ideal for
a bracing autumnal
walk. See what’s going
on in The Capitol
(thecapitolhorsham.
com), Horsham’s
cinema, theatre and
art gallery, peruse
independent boutiques
at Piries Place and
dine at Wabi (38 East
Street, tel: 01403
788 140). The town’s
newest and trendiest
restaurant, Wabi serves
up exquisite Japanese
cuisine (try the
yellowtail sashimi,
the braised duck leg
and fi nish with the
wickedly indulgent
Kuro Mori with
chocolate and cherries)
alongside carefully
crafted cocktails.
NO WAY!
Hate traffi c lights? The
world’s fi rst traffi c light
was set up outside
the House of Commons
in 1868. However, it
didn’t last very long...
it blew up just one year
later, injuring the
poor policeman who
was operating it!
Amy Dennis

50 MILLION PASSENGERS A YEAR, AND GROWING.
PUBLICIS ADVERTISING IS PROUD TO BE PART OF YOUR INCREDIBLE SUCCESS.
HAPPY 15TH.
publicis
london

148 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Luxor
Egypt
DIALLING CODE +20
CURRENCY EGP
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
NEW FROM
2010
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs between
50–100LE.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Ramasseum Café
(Ramasseum, West
Bank) A hidden gem
with views to die for.
Expect simple but tasty
lunches, made using
local food, served with
ice-cold beer.
EXCLUSIVE
Al Moudira (West
Bank, tel: 012 325
1307) Al Moudira is
a hotel restaurant
with Moorish-inspired
décor and a fantastic
ambience. The menu is
a mix of well-executed
Egyptian, Lebanese and
international dishes,
served with local wines.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Tutti Frutti
(St Joseph Street, East
Bank, tel: 010 266 6680)
Light snacks, desserts
to die for and a calm and
relaxing atmosphere
make this little café
a tranquil oasis.
LATE & LIVELY Royal
Oak Pub (Khalid Ibn El
Walid street, East Bank,
tel: 09 5236 6264) A
centrally located bar.
Try the excellent local
beer, Stella, which has
been brewed in Egypt
since 1897.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Caravanserai
is an Aladdin’s cave of
crafts, pictures, pottery,
and jewellery. Khalid
Mohammed Ibrahim,
the owner, has sourced
everything locally and
also supports the local
women’s sewing group
(Medinet Habu, West
Bank, tel: 012 327 8771).
GO The tomb of
Irynefer has recently
been opened in the
village at Deir el Medina.
This is a great historical
site with two tombs, a
temple and the village.
NO WAY!
It took Howard Carter
nine years to clear the
tomb of Tutankhamun.
Jane Akshar
SOFITEL
KARNAK
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Situated in a tranquil
setting close to Karnak
Temple, with three
restaurants, bars,
and swimming pools.
Breakfast included.
From €23, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
Lyon
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Agadir, Barcelona,
Berlin, Biarritz, Bordeaux,
Brest, Bristol, Brussels,
Casablanca, Corsica
(Bastia), Edinburgh,
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,
London (LGW, STN),
Madrid, Marrakech, Milan
(MXP), Nantes, Nice,
Olbia, Porto, Prague, Rome
(CIA), Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1999
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €55.
Trains run every 15
minutes till 9pm
and every 30 minutes
till midnight. Tickets:
€13, single.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Le Petit
Bouffon (73 Rue de
Sèze, 6th, tel: 04 7824
0016) Flavours from
the Basque and local
Lyonnaise regions
are innovatively
served in bright and
jolly surroundings.
UP TO €30
Brocéliande (3 Rue
du Jardin des Plantes,
1st, tel: 04 7226
0539) Come here to
sample fresh produce
transformed into tasty
dishes, such as velouté
of pumpkin laced with
scallops. A great
stop-off for lunch
or dinner.
UP TO €50 Chez
Moss (2 Rue
Ferrandière, 2nd, tel: 04
7842 0409) Superbly
situated among the
bustle of the city’s busy
shopping streets and
nightlife, Chez Moss
is known for its
generous platters of
fresh shellfi sh and
hefty helpings of
moules et frites, as
well as an impressive
daily special menu
including marketchoice
grilled fi sh.
EXCLUSIVE La
Tassée (20 Rue de la
Charité, 2nd, tel: 04
7277 7900) Here you’ll
fi nd the whole range of
rustic to regal dishes,
all made using classic
recipes, served in this
immaculately preserved
1950s bouchon – a
restaurant specifi c to
the Lyonnais area.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar Cours
des Loges (6 Rue
du Bœuf, 5th, tel:
04 7277 4444) Spoil
yourself in the grand
surroundings of this
hotel’s vaulted bar.
Ambient music mixed
with contemporary art
washes down well with
a glass of Champagne.
LIVE MUSIC Black
and White (18 Quai
Romain Rolland, 5th,
tel: 04 7842 3634)
Buzzing vibes of jazz,
R’n’B and salsa are
on offer at this exotic
club that’s popular
with all ages.
LATE & LIVELY
First (13–14 Place
Jules Ferry, 6th, tel: 04
3724 1946) If you want
to groove with Lyon’s
young and up-for-it
crowd, then this is the
place to be seen. Dress
well if you want to get
in: the bouncer likes
to enforce a strict
dress code.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Marché
de Noël, in the
Place Carnot (next
to Perrache Train
Station), boasts some
of the very best foodie
gifts and arts and
crafts from the Rhône-
Alpes region. Painted
wooden chalets host
over 120 exhibitors
selling handmade
santons (nativity
fi gurines) and other
great gift ideas.
SEE The long-awaited
release of each year’s
Beaujolais Nouveau
comes at the stroke of
midnight on the third
Thursday in November
every year. Beaujeau,
the historic capital of
the Beaujolais region,
kicks off its annual
Sarmentelles festival
on 17 November. It
features a tasting of
the region’s wines,
followed by a torchlit
procession and
the release of the
Beaujolais Nouveau.
The festivities continue
through the weekend
(sarmentelles.com).
GO Head up to
the Montée de la
Grand Côte and take
in Lyon’s famous
traboules. These
narrow passageways
play a large part in
Lyon’s history: they
were constructed
in Roman times as
pedestrian short cuts,
and were later used
as the now-famous
secret passageways
to transport silk from
one street to another.
As you descend, stop
off and marvel at Place
Sathonay. A UNESCO
World Heritage Site, this
square is composed
of buildings featuring
beautiful 1920s façades.
ESCAPE Saint-
Etienne, 45 minutes to
the west of Lyon, has
distinguished itself
with its passion for
nature, art and design,
and football. The city,
rich in history and
steeped in tradition,
also offers 700
hectares of nearby
parkland called le Pilat,
which is perfect for
those with a penchant
for outdoor activities.
Step back in time and
visit the Coal Mining
Museum, then wander
up to Guizay Hill, which
offers fantastic views
of the city below. Finish
off your day in your
choice of the cafés and
restaurants around the
Place du Peuple, which
also hosts fabulous
open-air markets.
NO WAY!
Dr Edmond Locard
opened the world’s fi rst
police crime laboratory
in 1910 in Lyon. Locard
was a student of
Bertillon, also a pioneer
of forensic science.
John Brown

Spa Hotel Wiesenhof at Lake Achensee...
Arrive as a guest and leave as a friend.
www.wiesenhof.at
The shores of Lake Achensee in Tyrol are home to the
wonderful Hotel & Medical Spa Wiesenhof.
Virtually no other region boasts as many relaxing leisure
and dynamic sport activities as this beautiful Alpine
lakeside resort.
Originally a 17th century farmhouse, Wiesenhof is a
charming and very friendly third-generation family run
hotel and wellness spa which provides an exceptional
service, hospitality, comfort and delicious cuisine.
The vast Wiesenhof spa facilities include an indoor
swimming pool, various saunas, the unique sound bed
therapy, traditional Tyrolean and other oil baths; hot stone
treatments; professional beauty treatments, a fully equipped
gym and yoga room.
Hotel Wiesenhof in the middle of Europe’s largest nature
reserve – the Karwendel mountain range – offers superb
outdoor pursuits such as sailing, windsurfing, golf, fly fishing,
paragliding, horse riding, Nordic walking and cross country
or downhill skiing in the winter. Tailor-made packages
for a perfect family holiday or wellness break are available
all year-round.
Further information:
A-6213 Pertisau/Achensee/Tyrol · Austria
Tel. (00 43) 52 43 / 52 46 0 Fax (00 43) 52 43 / 52 46 48
info@wiesenhof.at · www.wiesenhof.at
? Why isn’t YOUR holiday home here?
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150 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Madeira
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Lisbon,
London (LGW, STN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
The Aerobus goes
to the main hotel
area. Tickets: €5.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Restaurante Londres
(64A Rua Carreira,
tel: 291 235 329) This
unassuming restaurant
pulls in plenty of locals
thanks to its consistently
good local cuisine, such
as bacalhau. The fresh
fi sh is also good, as are
the daily specials.
EXCLUSIVE Xopana
(Travessa do Largo da
Choupana, Funchal, tel:
291 206 020) A meal at
this hilltop spa resort is
memorable, not only
for the breathtaking
views over the town
but for the modern
take on Madeiran
cuisine, such as fi llet of
parrot fi sh and Atlantic
tuna with potato and
wasabi pureé.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Santinho
(5 Avenida Mar C
Madeirenses Marina,
tel: 291 228 945) Enjoy
a cocktail or two at this
buzzy bar overlooking
the boats of the marina.
LATE & LIVELY
Vespas (60 Avenida Sa
Carneiro, Funchal, tel:
291 231 202) Facing
the harbour, this giant
former warehouse
is great for all-night
dancing. It attracts
a good-time crowd.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Funchal’s superb
Mercado das Lavradores
is packed with autumn
produce: expect a riot of
colour and lots of local
characters. As well as
fruit and veg, you’ll fi nd a
diverse array of fi sh and
some local handicrafts.
SEE Christmas lights
are all systems go from
26 November, though
the sparkliest place in
town will be the football
stadium, when soccer
giants Maritimo take on
Funchal rivals Nacional
on the 14th. Maritimo’s
other November
matches are against
União de Leiria (7th)
and Guimarães (28th).
NO WAY!
One of the rarest birds
in the world, the Zino’s
petrel, breeds only on
Madeira’s remote peaks.
It was thought to be
extinct until a shepherd
reported that he had
heard the wailing of dead
souls, and ornithologists
discovered that it was
the cry of the birds.
Matthew Hancock
Madrid
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,
Bristol, Bucharest,
Casablanca, Edinburgh,
Fuerteventura, Geneva,
Ibiza, Lanzarote, Lisbon,
Liverpool, London (LGW,
LTN), Lyon, Marrakech,
Milan (MXP), Paris
(CDG), Rome (CIA),
Sofi a, Tangier, Toulouse.
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1998
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
Metro line 8
connects to other
lines and suburban
trains. Tickets €2.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 MCM (13
Calle Desengaño, tel:
915 217 590) Just off
the Gran Vía, this stylish
restaurant offers great
value for money. Kick off
the night with a cocktail
before enjoying creative
Spanish cuisine such as
Iberian pork with boletus
mushrooms, and cod
with fennel sauce. Those
with a sweet tooth must
try the mango and
pear crumble.
UP TO €30 La Mucca
de Prado (16 Calle del
Prado, tel: 915 230 000)
The beautiful décor is as
good as the food. Savour
pizzas with Spanish
toppings, Asian and
Middle Eastern-inspired
dishes, as well as pasta
and home-style desserts.
The trendy front bar pulls
in a hip crowd. Sit down
with a cocktail, such
as the elderfl ower and
cucumber martini.
UP TO €50 Europa
Decó (34 Carrera de
San Jeronimo, tel: 917
877 770) Oceanic,
ethnic décor provides
the setting for the
innovative dishes from
Spanish chef Joaquín de
Felipe. The lunch menu
in this lively restaurant
includes pasta and
market-fresh vegetable
and fi sh dishes. At night,
the lighting creates an
atmosphere perfect
for lingering over more
elaborate cuisine. Don’t
miss the calamari
sashimi and Kobe-style
beef from New Zealand.
AXOR
FERIA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
This smart and
modern hotel has
fantastic themed
rooms with a
minimalist feel.
Breakfast included.
From €65, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
EXCLUSIVE Gastro
de Sergi Arola (31
Calle Zurbano, tel: 913
102 169) Treat yourself
to gastronomic delights
from acclaimed Spanish
chef Sergi Arola. Gastro
offers an informal
midday menu and
haute cuisine at night.
Don’t miss the red
Palamos prawns with
cava and mushrooms,
or the exquisite black
grouper served with
vindaloo coconut soup.
Excellent Spanish wines
add to the experience.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY La
Venencia (7 Calle de
Echegaray, tel: 914 297
313) Step back in time at
La Venencia, a traditional
Spanish sherry bar
where you will be greeted
by friendly staff, an even
friendlier cat and décor
that looks like it was last
retouched in the 1950s.
LIVE MUSIC Siroco
(3 Calle San Dimas, tel:
915 933 070) A lively
programme of local
funk and rock bands
is on offer at Siroco,
which opens its doors
to the city’s young, cool,
twentysomethings
around 10pm for gigs,
before turning into a top
nightclub after midnight.
LATE & LIVELY The
Glass Bar (34 Carrera
de los Jeronimos, tel: 917
877 770) Sip a classic
cocktail or a glass of
champagne while you
savour some delicious
oysters in the company
of international
trendsetters. From fl oor
to ceiling, everything
in this stunning bar is
made of glass. As the
night moves on, the wow
factor cranks up a notch.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Revive and
refresh both body and
mind at the luxury spa
Fusiom. Choose from
a menu of more than
40 massages and
treatments, including the
heavenly Bali Chocolate
(44 Calle de Alcala,
fusiom.es).
SEE Dive into the
Prado Museum to
discover Passion for
Renoir. This spectacular
special exhibition
brings together 31
acclaimed works from
around the world by
the much-loved French
impressionist artist
(museodelprado.es).
GO Discover the
multitude of colours
in the autumn foliage
at Madrid’s Botanic
Gardens. Situated
right next to the Prado
Museum, there are
hundreds of exotic
plants, old trees and a
greenhouse to explore.
ESCAPE November
is a great time to visit El
Escorial, which is just a
45-minute ride on bus
No. 661 from Madrid’s
Moncloa bus station.
Visit the massive 16thcentury
royal monastery,
before strolling around
the shops and galleries.
NO WAY!
Although Madrid is
relatively fl at, it is in fact
650m above sea level
and has the honour
of being the highest
capital city in Europe.
Scott Adams

152 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Majorca
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Belfast (BFS),
Berlin, Bristol, Doncaster
Sheffi eld, Dortmund,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Glasgow, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN, STN),
Milan (MXP), Newcastle,
Paris (CDG), Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1997
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Route 1 goes to
central Palma.
Tickets: €2. For Arenal
take the number 21 bus.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Bistro
Bleu Blanc Rouge (5
Torre de Peraires, tel:
971 700 099) Seasonal
Mediterranean cuisine
is served up here in
a romantic setting.
EXCLUSIVE Senzone
(Maricel Hotel, 11
Carretera D’Andratx,
Cas Catala, tel: 971 707
744) Book a table and
feast on delicacies such
as creamy lobster and
lime rice. In 2004, the
Maricel was recognised
as having “The Best
Breakfast in the World”.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café dés
Xorri (241 Calle Vicari
Joaquim Fuster, Es
Molinar) A stylish bar by
the sea. The atmosphere
is relaxed and there’s
chill-out music.
LATE & LIVELY
Kaelum (Via Argentina)
This club caters for a
trendy set of locals with
music from the late
1980s–1990s playing.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Rialto Living
shop offers everything
from fashion, to
furniture, and has a café
(3C Carrer Sant Feliu).
GO The Banys Arabs
Moorish baths are a
perfect example of old
architecture, you’ll fi nd
them in the medieval
quarter (Barri Gòtic).
NO WAY!
The National Anthem of
Majorca is an adaptation
of a poem based on an
ancient children’s song
about a spider.
David Anderson
D’OR
ALEXANDRA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
The hotel occupies
a great location,
overlooking the sea
and next to the beach
front. It’s the perfect
place to unwind and
relax. From €55, book
at hotels.easyJet.com.
One of the most exclusive
addresses in Malta
www.portomaso.com.mt
Málaga
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bristol, Geneva, Glasgow,
Liverpool, London (LGW,
LTN, STN), Manchester,
Milan (MXP), Newcastle,
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1999
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €15.
Buses go to
Málaga, with links
to all the coastal resorts.
Tickets: €1.20.
There is a train
linking the airport
with Málaga and the
Costa del Sol resorts.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Café
Fresco (Los Boliches,
Fuengirola) Enjoy an
excellent selection
of tasty snacks and
salads, including
chicken salad wraps,
hearty homemade
soups and freshly
baked cakes. Organic
ingredients are used
throughout the menu,
making even the
cupcakes a little
more virtuous.
UP TO €30
El Molino de los
Abuelos (2 Plaza
Balcon de la Axarquia,
Comares, tel: 952 509
309) Located in the
heart of this stunning
village, east of Málaga,
this hotel restaurant
boasts stunning
mountain views
and an innovative
international menu.
Co-owner Ivan is a
professional dancer
and hosts salsa
nights with tapas and
cocktails on Fridays.
UP TO €50 La Casa
del Ángel (29 Calle
Madre de Dios, tel:
952 608 750) Beretand-smock
types will
appreciate the
owner’s laudable art
collection on the walls,
while everyone will
enjoy the delicious
combination of
Moroccan and
Andalusian dishes.
EXCLUSIVE
Ristorante Regina
(Nueva Andalucía,
Marbella, tel: 952
814 529) An elegant
restaurant with
a superb menu
including fresh pasta
dishes and seafood
specials, such as
monkfi sh with brandy
and cream. Start
off with a glass of
champagne or a
cocktail in the lounge,
accompanied by
tasty fi nger foods.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Puerta
Oscura (5 Calle Molina
Larios) A wonderfully
atmospheric bar
with plush, sink-into
sofas, classical music,
dimmed lighting and
an excellent choice
of cocktails and
fl avoured coffees.
LIVE MUSIC Jardin
(1 Calle Canón,
tel: 952 220 419)
Situated within
confessional distance
of the cathedral, this
sumptuous café has
live fl amenco and
tango music on Friday
and Saturday nights.
LATE & LIVELY
Lola’s (26 Calle
Condes San Isidro,
Fuengirola) This is a
fashionable spot with
well-priced cocktails,
superb music and
a sophisticated yet
convivial atmosphere.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Ronda is
home to some of the
lowest-priced and
highest-quality
leather goods stores
in Spain. Not that
you need an excuse
to visit this dramatic
mountaintop town,
with its dizzily
stunning location
on the dramatic
El Tajo gorge.
SEE Exciting
contemporary artist
Dexter Dalwood will be
exhibiting at Málaga’s
Contemporary Art
Museum until 28
November. Dalwood’s
work is heavy with
visual symbolism,
with the subject
matter typically
featuring iconic haunts
(cacmalaga.org).
GO Enjoy a shady
autumnal stroll in the
tropical retreat of the
Jardín Botánico La
Concepción. Located
just north of the city
centre, this lush oasis
features towering
trees and spectacular
seasonal blooms,
many imported
from Cuba and
South America
(tel: 952 252 148).
ESCAPE For a
glimpse of what the
area was like before
the high-rise hotels
emerged on the
scene, head for Los
Alamos, the stretch
of beach and
promenade heading
east towards Málaga
from its main
Playamar stretch of
sand in Torremolinos.
There are some good
beach bars here, as
well as one or two
old-style chiringuitos
(beach cabana
bars). It’s a popular
rollerblading spot, so
don your skates and
strike out at sunset
along with the locals.
NO WAY!
Even though the
best marmalade is
made from Seville
oranges, the Spanish
rarely eat the stuff
themselves. They
much prefer their
slice of toast topped
with olive oil, garlic
and lashings of
crushed tomatoes.
And don’t be fooled
into thinking you
can pick an orange
direct from the tree in
the street here – they
are invariably very
bitter indeed.
Josephine Quintero

elviria’s chic beach retreat
“internationally renowned restaurant”
located in elviria close to marbella & mijas golf courses
discounts for golf groups (call for details)
20€ & 25€ set menu offer (call for availability)
live music events
open for lunch & dinner
Tel: 0034 952 839 458
www.marbellabeachhouse.com
Beach House Marbella
org

154 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Malta
Malta
DIALLING CODE +356
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Belfast, Liverpool,
London (LGW),
Manchester, Newcastle,
Milan (MXP), Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €16.
Route 8 services
Valletta (and
the mainbus station).
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Elements
(29 Marina Street,
Marsascala, tel: 21
632 669) One of
several eateries along
the waterfront, this
is a blink-and-you’llmiss-ithole-in-thewall
that’s worth
seeking out. Delicious
Mediterranean fare at
very reasonable prices.
EXCLUSIVE Ta’ Frenc
(Ghajn Damma Street,
Gozo, tel: 21 553 888)
Arguably Malta’s best
restaurant, this is the
place to come for that
special occasion. The
setting is beautiful, the
service attentive and the
food to die for. Don’t miss
the fl ambéed pasta.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café
Jubilee (125 St Lucia
Street, Valletta) Relax
with a quiet drink in the
laidback atmosphere of
this quirky pub, whether
it’s a tea or a pint of beer.
Order a bruschetta, sit
back and relax.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Vintage clothes
lovers have fi nally found
their fi x with the opening
of Blush & Panic. It offers
great clothing, jewellery
and bags (47A Melita
Street, Valletta).
SEE On 7 November
Birgu hosts a Festival
of Games. A fun-fi lled
event for children
and adults, it aims to
revive popular local
games that for decades
enlivened the streets.
NO WAY!
It’s argued that Malta
got its name from the
word melita, meaning
“honey”. Today, honey is
still big business here.
Jo Caruana
LATE & LIVELY
BAR CELONA
(Wilga Street, Paceville,
tel: 27 333 395) With
happy hours from
1pm–6pm, followed by
a line-up of DJs to get
the evening going, this
is the place to be until
the early hours.
Manchester
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Athens,
Copenhagen, Corfu,
Corsica (Bastia), Crete
(Heraklion), Cyprus
(Paphos), Dalaman,
Geneva, Gothenburg,
Hamburg, Helsinki,
Málaga, Malta,
Marrakech, Menorca,
Munich, Sharm El Sheikh,
Sofi a, Tenerife, Zürich
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £20.
Trains depart for
the city centre
every 10 minutes.
Tickets: £5.40 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Hey Little
Cupcake! (Hardman
Street) This chain
continues its national
takeover with an outlet in
Spinningfi elds business
district. The coffee and
vanilla and chocolateorange
editions are
menu highlights in this
glass-clad space.
UP TO €30 Vnam
(140 Oldham Road,
tel: 0161 205 2700)
This new Vietnamese
restaurant has won
the cynics over with its
fresh spring rolls and
juicy, barbecued quail.
Heavy on pine furniture
and good vibes, the
drinks list is worth
closer inspection, too.
UP TO €50 The
Palace Hotel (Oxford
Street, tel: 0161 288
1111) Few places wow
like the Palace Hotel.
Designed by Alfred
Waterhouse at the turn
of the 20th century,
original tiling and
mustard décor cosset
diners from the outside
world. Take your time
over a menu of modern
British fare, with an
ambitious wine list to
enjoy on the side.
EXCLUSIVE The
River Bar And
Restaurant (Lowry
Hotel, Dearman’s Place,
Salford, tel: 0161 827
4000) The Lowry Hotel
has fi ve AA stars – and
a rising star in the
kitchen, too. Chef Oliver
Thomas specialises
in deconstructed
British favourites: think
Cheshire beef fi llet with
truffl e and herb crust,
braised baby onion and
spinach pureé, with
Snickers bruleé for
afters. Ask for matching
wine by the glass,
and look out for
famous footballers
in the chrome and
crystal surrounds.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Taps (Unit
1, Great North Tower,
Watson Street) Like the
idea of pulling your own
pint? The smart and
central Taps bar lets you
do just that. Grab a seat,
put your card behind the
bar and get pulling beers,
such as Amstel and
Duvel. Posh pub food –
sandwiches, steaks
and so on – makes for
a proper evening out.
LIVE MUSIC The Ritz
(Whitworth Street West,
tel: 0161 236 4355)
The Ritz shakes off
its cheesy reputation
to host touring acts
including Outkast’s
Big Boi, Sharon Jones
and The Dap Kings and
Heaven 17 this month.
Unique in the city
centre, there’s plenty
to look at, too, thanks
to ornate coving and
mirror balls galore.
LATE & LIVELY
Sankeys (Beehive Mill,
Jersey Street, Ancoats,
tel: 0161 236 5444)
Mancunian clubbers are
in their element when
it’s cold outside, and
nowhere more so than
Sankeys. With a sound
system to complement
the planet’s fi nest
DJs, Erick Morillo,
Mumdance and
the Plump DJs are
highlights this month.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Travelling
Man book store sells
comics, toys, gifts,
wrapping paper, cards
and games. As well as
hosting signings and
talks by inspirational
animators, there’s
a range of cute stuff
for kids, too, including
Aranzi Aronzo’s
delightful craft
manuals (4 Dale Street,
Northern Quarter).
SEE Recorders is the
apt name of a new
exhibition by Rafael
Lozano-Hemmer
at Manchester Art
Gallery. Making use
of technology that
sees, hears and
feels the actions of
people around it,
biometric scanners,
surveillance cameras
and microphones are
all part of the intriguing,
interactive show.
Throughout the month
(Mosley Street).
GO Running between
Harvey Nichols and
Selfridges, New
Cathedral Street is
a pedestrianised
strip which brings
together the area
around the Printworks
entertainment complex,
the Triangle shopping
centre and St Ann’s
Square. With a festive
market on site to boot,
its perfect for tourists
who don’t like trudging
around too far.
ESCAPE Around an
hour’s drive north of
Manchester, Harrogate
was founded in Roman
times and remains
popular today. With
famous cafés such as
Betty’s Tea Rooms, and
an authentic Turkish
spa to enjoy, Sunday
evening spa sessions
are the perfect pickme-up
after a day’s
walking in the Dales.
NO WAY!
Until 1860, the Mark
Addy gastropub on
Stanley Street was
a popular spot for
public executions.
Ruth Allan

ARC R / RCS RC R LYON L YONN 518 518 518 51 51 5 20 408 40 - Pho P tos : G. G Lan a sard sard sard sard sard sard --
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tin in de
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www.st-martin-belleville.com
Saint Martin
the 3 vallées village
*Offer valid for the 2010/2011 winter season. Tariffs are minimum per person,
for a stay including 7 nights accommodation in a 4 person apartment plus
a 3 Vallées Family Pass (2 adults and 2 children). Subject to availability.

156 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Marrakech
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London (LGW),
Lyon, Madrid, Manchester,
Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2006
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs MAD60.
The hourly L19
bus goes to
the Jemaa el Fna.
Tickets: MAD20 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Leroy’s
Kfé (Les Jardins de la
Palmeraie, tel: 0524 368
739) A new restaurant
in town from St Tropezbased
Christophe Leroy.
The food is French –
think steak galore – while
the atmosphere relaxed.
EXCLUSIVE La
Sultana Restaurant
(403 Rue de la Kasbah)
High-backed chairs the
size of thrones, large
tables, soft gnawa music
and excellent Moroccan
and international cuisine
are all on offer here.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Soukara
(Boulevard Mohammed
VI, tel: 0524 431 885)
Near the Théâtre Royal,
you can sip fresh fruit
juice or head to the
terrace for a strong brew.
LATE & LIVELY
Theatro (Hotel Es Saadi,
Avenue El Quadissia)
This refurbished, former
theatre is a great sight to
see and place to be seen.
At times, the venue can
erupt in an atmosphere
of hedonism, with
people lounging around
on four-poster beds!
THIS MONTH
GO If you like adventure,
then try your hand
at quad biking. A trip
takes you through
desert, mountains
and wild palm groves.
You’ll also stop in a
traditional Berber village
(dunesdesert.com).
NO WAY!
Marrakech was
founded in 1062 by the
Almoravids – a Berber
tribe that erected the
distinctive medina walls.
Nick Clarke
LA PORTE
D’ORIENT
SHOP At fi rst this
looks like every other
antique shop, but
make an appointment
and you’ll be shown a
room full of genuine
– and expensive –
artefacts (9 Boulevard
El Mansour Eddahbi).
Marseille
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2003
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €50.
A shuttle bus runs
to Marseille’s
Gare St Charles.
Tickets: €8.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Sur Le
Pouce (2 Rue des
Convalescents, tel: 04
9156 1328) This popular
and friendly gem of a
restaurant is a big hit
with locals, thanks to
its excellent couscous,
tagines, spit-roasted
lamb and grilled dishes.
Expect a warm welcome
and cheerful ambience.
EXCLUSIVE L’Entre-
Sol et Mer (3 Place
aux Huiles, tel: 04 9133
1946) Housed in a 17thcentury
port building,
with breathtaking
views over the harbour,
L’Entre-Sol et Mer boasts
a subtle combination
of ancient and modern,
both in its décor and
its cuisine. Traditional
Mediterranean dishes
plus seasonal specials
will satisfy all appetites.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Cave de
Baille (133 Boulevard
Baille, tel: 04 9612
0568) Be warned: if
you plan on dropping
by for a quick drink, you
may end up spending
the entire evening here,
enjoying the agreeable
atmosphere at this
highly civilised wine bar.
LATE & LIVELY
Barberousse (7 Rue
Glandèves, tel: 04 9133
7813) A stopover for
thirsty travellers, the bar
that resembles a pirate
ship, the Barberousse,
serves shooters
and wicked rum
concoctions. Open till
4am on weekend nights.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Le Traiteur
Marrou is renowned for
its superb delicacies
and excellent range of
French cheeses
(15 Place Castellane,
tel: 04 9178 1768).
SEE Samson and
Delilah by Camille Saint-
Saëns is a three-act
Opera based on the
biblical story. The show
will run in the impressive
Opera de Marseille from
17–26 November
(tel: 04 9155 1110).
NO WAY!
Said to be the most
cosmopolitan city
in France, Marseille
is home to 200,000
Muslims, 80,000 Jews,
70,000 Armenians and
150,000 Corsicans.
Claire McAlpine
Milan
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Agadir,
Amsterdam, Athens,
Barcelona, Bari,
Berlin, Bordeaux,
Brindisi, Bucharest,
Brussels, Cagliari,
Casablanca, Catania,
Copenhagen, Corfu,
Crete (Heraklion),
Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,
Ibiza, Lamezia,
Lisbon, Ljubljana,
London (LGW, LTN),
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,
Málaga, Malta,
Marrakech, Menorca,
Mykonos, Naples,
Olbia, Palermo, Paris
(CDG, ORY), Porto,
Prague, Rhodes,
Rome (FCO),
Santorini, Sofi a,
Split, Stockholm,
Thessaloniki, Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
LINATE
TAXI
MARRAKECH EARTH HOUSE CHIC..
3 Village houses for sale, 24 km from city.
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SINCE
2000
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
ATM’s route 73
connects with
the metro at San
Babila. Tickets: €1.
The Starfl y goes to
Centrale station.
Tickets: €4.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
MALPENSA
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €70.
The Malpensa
Shuttle departs
for Centrale station.
Tickets: €7.
The Malpensa
Express departs
from Terminal 1 for
Cadorna station.
Tickets: €11.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Crota
Piemunteisa (9 Via
Gian Giacomo Mora,
tel: 02 839 5992)
This lively budget
trattoria in the Porta
Ticinese area caters
for a youngish crowd,
serving traditional
fare including pasta
with beans, ravioli
and gnocchi. Choose
carefully and you can
spend very little.
UP TO €30 Mykonos
(5 Via Tofane, tel:
02 261 0209) Quality
Greek cuisine is a
rare thing in Milan
but this traditional
taverna-style
venue serves up
mouthwatering
taramosalata,
moussaka and
souvlaki made
according to ageold
traditions imported
from the owner’s
Greek family.
UP TO €50 Nisida
(19 Via Porro
Lambertenghi,
tel: 02 9737 8447)
A traditional trattoria
and pizzeria that’s
recently reopened

Le «Domaine de Pont Royal» créé en
1990, situé dans le sud de la France entre
Aix-en-Provence et Avignon au pied du
Lubéron, à 2h30 minutes de Paris, vous
propose ses derniers terrains à bâtir de
500 à 3000m² pour réaliser soit votre
résidence principale soit votre résidence
secondaire. (Libre choix architecte/
constructeur).
Ce domaine privé et gardienné de
180 hectares off re de nombreuses activités:
2 golfs dont l’un signé « Ballesteros »,
piscines, tennis, équitation…
L’Aéroport de Marseille/Marignane à
½ heure.
« PONT ROYAL GOLF »
Domaine et Golf de Pont Royal, 13370 Mallemort, FRANCE
T: +33 (0)4.90.57.46.65 | +33 (0)6.10.01.46.09
E: pontroyalgolf@wanadoo.fr
Th e “Domaine de Pont Royal” developed
in 1990, located in the South of France
between Aix-en-Provence and Avignon, at
the foot of Lubéron, 21/2 hours from Paris,
off ers you the last remaining plots (from
500 to 3000m²) to build your main
residence or holiday home. (Free choice
of architect/builder).
Th is privately gated and guarded land of
180 hectares off ers various activities such as:
2 golf courses, one of which is designed by
“Ballesteros”, swimming pools, tennis courts,
horseback riding …
30 minutes from Marseille/
Marignane Airport.
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des ambassadeurs, piscine,
cheminée, idéal pour une
vie de famille.
Prix : 23.000.000 MAD
Tanger
Villa avec Piscine à
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cheminée, vue sur mer
à partir du jardin,
Prix : 11.000.000 MAD
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158 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Milan
Italy
under new
management, serving
authentic Neapolitanstyle
pizzas as well as
pasta dishes such as
linguine with tomatoes
and anchovies.
Al Pont de Ferr
(55 Ripa di Porta
Ticinese, tel: 02 8940
6277) A popular place
in the Navigli area,
Pont de Ferr has
become a Milanese
institution, offering
traditional cooking,
a relaxed atmosphere,
and rustic décor with
brickwork and beams.
EXCLUSIVE
Giannino (6 Via Vittor
Pisani, tel: 02 6698
6998) Situated near
the Stazione Centrale,
this long-established
restaurant offers a
varied menu of mostly
traditional dishes,
including what could
be the best cotoletta
alla milanese (veal
cutlets) in town.
La Pobbia (92 Via
Gallarate, tel: 02
3800 6641) A smart
setting for a romantic
dinner offering a
warm welcome and
traditional cookery,
including Milanese
risotto and other
regional dishes. Not
particularly central,
but worth the trip.
It’s not cheap, but
you won’t regret
splashing out.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Ragoo
(140 Viale Monza, tel:
02 2600 5157) A small
disco bar popular with
twentysomethings
serving beers,
cocktails and snacks.
Friday and Saturday
nights get busy with
music selected
by a DJ. Worth the
trip north to the
Turro metro stop.
LIVE MUSIC Nidaba
(12 Via Gola, tel: 02
8940 8657) Nidaba
hosts a wide range
of well-known and
up-and-coming music
acts from Europe
and beyond, with the
emphasis on rock,
blues and folk music.
LATE & LIVELY
The Club (97 Corso
Garibaldi, tel: 02 655
5318) Not exactly a
catchy name, but this
is about as happening
as it gets on the Milan
club scene. Good for
spotting celebs and
models, the venue
is also popular with
hip students and
twentysomethings.
Magazzini Generali
(14 Via Pietrasanta,
tel: 02 5521 1313)
International DJs
choose the music
on various theme
nights at this popular
converted warehouse,
which is heaving at
weekends. As with
most Milan clubs
the entrance charge
includes a fi rst drink.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Trussardi is
one of the fashion
capital’s leading
brands for men and
women’s clothes and
accessories. It offers
a memorable shopping
experience from
the elegant leather
bags on the ground
fl oor to the latest
fashions upstairs
(5 Piazza della Scala,
tel. 02 806 8821).
SEE This month
the International
Motorcycle Expo trade
show is at the Fiera
Milano exhibition
centre. Dedicated
to two-wheel
afi cionados, the event
includes a wealth of
attractions including
outdoor tests and
competitions as
well as a section
showcasing ecofriendly
hybrid and
electric vehicles.
Exhibitors come from
39 countries and the
show claims more than
50,000 attendees. It
hits town from 4–7
November; entry €18;
after 6pm €12 (tel:
02 677 3511, eicma.it).
GO Milan’s medieval
castle, the Castello
Sforzesco, is a
fascinating monument
and features an art
museum as well as a
well-stocked bookshop
with a range of arty
souvenirs. The castle
sits at the south end of
the city’s largest park,
a great place for a
relaxing autumn stroll
away from the traffi c
fumes. The park is
also home to the
Triennale, a design
centre hosting
regular art and
design exhibitions.
ESCAPE Set along
the autostrada, about
40km north-east of
Milan, Bergamo is
really two cities in one:
the higher, older part,
the Città Alta, perches
on a hill overlooking
the more recent Città
Bassa. The Old Town
is full of atmosphere
and the central square,
the Piazza Vecchia, is
known for its historic
architecture, including
the Renaissance
Palazzo della Ragione.
The bell tower has a
memorable view over
the Po river. Bergamo’s
newer quarter is all
about shopping, and
designer boutiques
nestle among
banks and fi nancial
companies. There
are plenty of upmarket
bars, too, and even
the odd club.
NO WAY!
Such is the wealth
of Milan that if it were
a country, it would
rank as the 28th
largest economy in
the world – almost as
big as Austria.
Charles Searson
STARHOTELS
PALACE
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Immerse yourself in
elegantly furnished
rooms and take a
stroll through tranquil
courtyards here.
Breakfast included.
From €135, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Montpellier
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Take the bus to
Place de l’Europe.
Tickets: €4.90 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Le Bistrot
des Tessiers (5 Rue
des Tessiers, tel: 04
6760 4876) A refreshing
and different brasserie
featuring dishes from
Lyon. Lots of sausage,
mustard, offal and
potatoes, which are all
very nourishing and
warming on a cold
winter’s day. The closepacked
tables encourage
lots of friendly chit chat
across the room.
EXCLUSIVE Divine et
Sens 2 (Impasse Perrier,
tel: 04 6754 1230) Try
the duck carpaccio with
onion chutney or the
lamb and aubergine
cake – all the ingredients
are fresh from the
market. This is a new
address in Montpellier
but it’s already making
a good impression
on the foodies.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Blablabar
(4 Rue de Candole, tel:
04 6755 6840) A tiny
hideaway fi lled with brica-brac,
armchairs and
antiques that’s popular
with students and
intellectuals, who hang
out reading thick books
and drinking red wine.
LATE & LIVELY Up
and Down (5 Rue du
Pila-Saint-Gely, tel:
04 6766 2375) At the
weekends, this place
puts on rock gigs and
the place packs out as
people drink Belgian
beer and choose
between about 40
varieties of bottled beer.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Staggy
specialises in branded
sports shoes – among
them Puma, Converse
and many more. The
French love the jeansand-trainers
look, so
come here and make
sure you fi t right in (52
Grand-Rue Jean-Moulin,
tel: 04 6754 4275).
SEE Equisud (10–14
November) is the largest
horse show in France.
Barrel-racing, shoeing,
dressage, whispering,
rodeo, donkeys, hacking:
if it’s horsey, it’s
here (equisudmontpellier.com).
NO WAY!
Leo Malet, author of
the 33 Nestor Burma
detective novels, was
born in Montpellier in
March 1909.
Samantha David

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160 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Munich
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Edinburgh,
London (LGW, STN),
Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1998
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €55.
Buses leave for
the centre every
20 minutes. Tickets:
€10 single; €16 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Vapiano
(15 Theatinerstrasse,
tel: 089 2060 65860)
Choose your pasta,
sauce and toppings at
this fast-food canteen
where diners watch
their meal being cooked.
EXCLUSIVE Buffet
Kull (4 Marienstrasse,
tel: 089 221 509) This
central spot, just fi ve
minutes’ walk from
Marienplatz, is a great
place to go for a welldeserved
treat. The food
is modern Mediterranean
and the service is
always attentive.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Wassermann (19
Elvirastrasse) This
buzzing bar is a safe
bet for a good night out.
The clientèle is mixed,
and whether you’re
after cocktails, beer or a
quick glass of wine, you
won’t be disappointed.
LATE & LIVELY
Pusser’s
(9 Falkenturmstrasse,
tel: 089 220 500) Head
to the cellar in this New
York-style bar for regular
live jazz. And while
you’re here, don’t miss
the barman’s speciality,
Pusser’s painkiller.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For true top-end
souvenirs head to
Maximilianstrasse. This
boulevard is Munich’s
answer to the Champs-
Elysees, with one
boutique after another.
NO WAY!
Munich is home to the
oldest brewery in the
world. Weihenstephan
has been brewing its ale
since 725 AD.
Jill Henne
OLD TOWN
GO No trip would
be complete without
a look around the
Old Town. Climb the
306 steps of the
Alter Peter church
tower. At the top,
you’ll be treated to an
unrivalled view.
Murcia
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, London
(LGW), Newcastle
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2005
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi to Murcia costs
€45 and €35 Torrevieja.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Aires
de Murcia (25 Calle
Simon García, tel: 968
210 477) Near the
Cathedral, it offers
everything from a quick
tapa at the bar, to a
full sit-down meal. The
Jumilla wines from
the Murcia region are
defi nately worth trying.
EXCLUSIVE
Alborada (15 Calle
Andrés Baquero, tel:
968 232 323) Modern
and imaginative
cuisine with fresh
Mediterranean
ingredients. Why not
try the wild boar with
onion and pumpkin
chutney? Or a more
traditional leg of lamb,
Murcia-style? There is
also a good choice of
fi sh with sea bass and
monkfi sh included.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Mesón
Las Mulas (5 Calle
Ruipérez, tel: 968 220
561) A popular tavern
with old photographs
of the city adorning
the walls. This is a
great place to start the
evening. Choose one
of the tapas dishes on
offer to go with a chilled
beer or glass of wine.
LATE & LIVELY
Fuente Álamo
(Carretera N301,
Fuente Álamo) Open
from 11pm, this club
has a Wild West theme,
with cowboy outfi ts
and saloon-style bars
over three dancefl oors.
Good fun for energetic
twentysomethings.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Try Benijófar
market on Tuesday
mornings for fresh fruit
and veg, and leather
bags – it has some of the
best selections around.
SEE John Peel
favourites, The Wedding
Present, are playing
at Sala La Llotja in
Elche on 8 November
(ticktackticket.com).
NO WAY!
Hollywood giant
Paramount has signed
an agreement with
the Murcia regional
government to develop
a movie theme park.
No site has yet been
chosen for the project
which they say will be
unique in Europe. It is
estimated the park will
create 20,000 jobs and
bring in three million
tourists each year.
David Jones
Nantes
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London
(LGW), Lyon
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
The Tan bus runs
to Nantes South
train station and the city
centre. Tickets: €7.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Le
Quarante et Un (41
Rue Bougainville, tel:
02 4046 8210) Cosy
and elegant, you’ll love
the big fi replace and the
dark woodwork. Try the
iced pea soup, rabbit
or the pigeon – all are
good choices. There is
also an organic menu.
EXCLUSIVE Auberge
du Vieux Gachet
(Route de Gachet,
Carquefou, tel: 02 4025
1092) Sit by the window
for a great view of the
castle opposite, enjoy
opulent dishes such as
lobster, wild mushrooms,
foie gras, Black Forest
mousse and fabulous
homemade ices.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
L’Appartement (1 Rue
Gresset, tel: 02 4073
1151) This is a friendly
place to hang out in the
afternoons, putting the
world to rights with the
barstaff, or just reading a
good book. The candles
and exposed stonework
create a warm, lovely
environment for a cold
day. In the evenings,
it offers a selection of
cocktails and wine.
LATE & LIVELY
L’Abacco (1 Rue
Paul-Dubois, tel: 02
5184 1057) The futurist,
all-metal exterior heralds
1970s pop-art, while,
inside there are eggshaped
chairs and sofas
piled high with cushions.
Cocktails in the electrolounge
include a famous
Sex and the City cocktail,
otherwise try the
Cruella Deville (cointreau
and cranberry).
THIS MONTH
SHOP Azimut sells an
eclectic selection of
ethnic furnishings from
Africa, China, and South
America (18 Rue Scribe,
tel: 02 2821 5290).
SEE The Preferences
Habitat expo at the Parc
des Expositions de la
Beaujoire runs from
11–15 November and
showcases all the
latest lifestyle and
decorating trends
(preferences-habitat.fr).
NO WAY!
In 56BC, during the
Roman occupation,
the city was called
Portus Namnetum.
Samantha David
No.62389 Retail in Motion Boxerchips Banners.indd 4 19/10/2010 17:54
TAXI
SINCE
2008

Naples
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Geneva, Ibiza,
Liverpool, London (LGW,
STN), Milan (MXP),
Paris (ORY), Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2000
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
The Alibus shuttle
stops at the train
station and Piazza
Municipio. Tickets: €4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
El Bocadillo (50 Via
Martucci, tel: 081 669
030) Spanish and
Venezuelan cuisines
pleasantly collide with
Neapolitan fare at this
charming eatery. Try the
fresh octopus bruschetta
and refreshing sangria.
EXCLUSIVE Dal
Delicato (34–37 Via
Sermoneta, tel: 081 667
047) While the pizza
here is primo, this is a
mecca for seafood lovers,
expertly preparing the
catch of the day. You will
enjoy the extensive wine
list, fresh desserts, and
amazing views of the bay.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Volver Café
(56 Via Vincenzo Bellini)
This cheery venue offers
a variety of games you
and your friends can
play at your table while
enjoying your cocktails,
or espresso.
LATE & LIVELY
Ex Ess (28 Via
Giuseppe Martucci) This
subterranean disco, with
its series of warmly-lit
rooms, makes you feel
like you are part of
a secret society.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The friendly
staff at Arte Chiaja sell
ceramics, gouache
paintings, coral
jewellery, Pulcinella
fi gurines and other
Neapolitan souvenirs
(238 Via Chiaia).
NO WAY!
The poet, Virgil, hid a
magical egg in Naples’
Castel dell’Ovo (Egg
Castle), which is how it
earned its odd name.
Tui Cameron
CAPELLA DEI
SANSEVERO
GO It’s easy to see
why Naples’ centre
is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site; many of
the city’s attractions
are located here, such
as the famous veiled
Christ statue at the
Capella dei Sansevero.
Newcastle
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Barcelona, Belfast (BFS),
Bristol, Faro, Geneva,
Ibiza, London (STN),
Majorca, Málaga, Malta,
Menorca, Murcia, Nice,
Paris (CDG), Rome (CIA)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2001
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £18.
The Metro
services the city
centre. Tickets: £3
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Madrasi
(Belle Vue Grove, Low
Fell, tel: 0191 491 1333)
When a curry house
offers jalfrezi lobster
you know you’ve found
a venue with lofty
ambitions. There’s a
good mix of unusual
dishes, as well as the
more traditional.
EXCLUSIVE The
Boyson Restaurant
(Longhirst Hall, Morpeth,
tel: 0167 079 1348)
Locally sourced, organic
produce is the staple of
this elegant restaurant
for those who enjoy
good food. Try the pan-
fried bream followed by
Aberdeen Angus beef
in horseradish pureé.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Charles Grey (118 Grey
Street) This formerly
brash music bar for
teens and twenties has
reinvented itself to cater
for all tastes and ages.
By day it’s a good place
for a decent pint.
LATE & LIVELY
Newcastle Carling
Academy (Westgate
Road, tel: 0191 260
2020) This venue has
played host to some of
the country’s biggest
music acts. November
sees Goldfrapp play
on 20th and We are
Scientists on 26th.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Green
Ginger Shopping Arcade
is a converted church in
Front Street, Tynemouth
which houses 17
speciality shops selling
antiques, local art,
designer clothing and
a tattoo parlour.
GO The Farne Islands off
the coast of the seaside
town of Seahouses are
home to 100,000 pairs
of breeding birds and the
largest colony of grey
seals in Northern Europe.
The many Seahouses
restaurants also do
a mean fi sh and chips.
NO WAY!
Newcastle resident
Nick Marshall holds the
offi cial world record
for the number of
meatballs eaten in a
minute. He scoffed 27.
Michelle Ord
DESTINATION GUIDES | 161
Nice
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bristol, Brussels,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Liverpool, London
(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,
Newcastle, Paris (CDG,
ORY), Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1996
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
Bus 98 stops at
Nice’s Old Town
and the Gare Routière.
Tickets: €4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Nexus
Caffe (12–14 Cours
Saleya, tel: 04 9385
7715) With a lounge and
outdoor terrace on the
famous marketplace,
enjoy pasta, pizza,
seafood and grilled meat
in convivial surroundings.
Open until 1.30am this
makes a great pit stop
for the late-night reveller.
UP TO €30 Beef
Bar Junior (34
Cours Saleya, tel: 04
9362 6042) Waiters,
decked out in I Love
Beef T-shirts, dish up
sumptuous Tuscan and
Argentine steaks on the
restaurant’s picturesque
terrace. Opt for the
raw bar menu with the
Niçoise carpaccio being
a fi rm favourite.
UP TO €50 La
Maison de Marie
(5 Rue Masséna, tel:
04 9382 1593) Right in
the town centre, with
a smart grey-and-red
interior, this place is
for foodies. Dine on
culinary treats such
as foie gras, stuffed
sardines and pungentsmelling
truffl es, which
are actually really tasty.
EXCLUSIVE Les
Pêcheurs (10 Boulevard
Maréchal Juin, Juanles-Pins,
tel: 04 9293
1330) A century ago, this
inlet held two crumbling
fi shermen’s cottages.
Today, chef Nicolas Sale
prepares Michelinstarred
seafood here.
Post-gourmet gorging,
patrons can rest and
digest at Les Pêcheurs’
beach club and hear the
waves crashing.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar des
Célébrités (Carlton
Hotel, 58 La Croisette,
Cannes, tel: 04 9306
4006) Where to see
and be seen. Invest in a
cocktail at €14 to get a
glimpse of the high life
on the Croisette. Open
daily until 2am.
LIVE MUSIC Bar
en Biais (600 Avenue
Première, Antibes, tel: 04
9374 1098) Set inland
from Antibes’ main town
centre, this jazz bar has
open jam sessions on
Friday nights.

162 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Nice
France
LATE & LIVELY
Chokko (15 Rue des
Frères Pradignac,
Cannes, tel: 04 9339
6270) Off the ohso-chic
La Croisette,
Chokko’s lavish décor
and international DJs
attract a trendy crowd
of late-night revellers.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Stock up on
Provençal truffl es – as
well as wine, chocolate
and cheese infused by
the fragrant tuber – at
Chef Bruno Clément’s
specialist shop, Terres
de Truffes (11 Rue Saint
François de Paule,
terresdetruffes.com).
SEE Nice Manca
Music Festival from
13–21 November
hosts performances
in selected venues
across Nice, Monaco
and Grasse (cirmmanca.org).
GO Explore 150 years
of Russian presence
in the city starting at
the cathedral (Avenue
Nicolas) with its six
onion-like domes and
commemorative chapel.
Head over to the Fine
Arts Museum (Avenue
des Baumettes),
once residence of the
Ukrainian princess
Kotschoubey. The
Hotel Negresco’s
imposing baccarat
crystal chandelier
under the impressive
glass roof is identical
to one in the Kremlin
(nicetourism.com).
ESCAPE Villeneuve
Loubet is just 20 minutes
from Nice centre. History
lovers could easily spend
the day discovering its
medieval chateaux and
churches. If you ever
wondered where Peach
Melba came from then
a visit to the Escoffi er
museum of culinary arts
will give you your answer
(Auguste Escoffi er was
born here). The Parc
de Vaugrenier offers
nature lovers a plenitude
of Mediterranean
vegetation and wildlife
and those searching a
more energetic day out
can head to the Baie des
Anges marina for some
nautical capers.
NO WAY!
The Promenade des
Anglais was built by
the English making
Nice their winter sun
spots at the beginning
of the 19th century.
They thought it would
be better to avoid the
panhandlers who
were asking them for
money all the time.
John Brown
LES TERRASSES
D’EZE
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Located on the hills
between Nice and
Monaco, with a
unique panorama on
the Mediterranean,
perfect to relax.
From €101, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Olbia
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,
London (LGW), Lyon,
Milan (MXP), Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2005
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €15.
The Linea Urbana
bus goes to Olbia
every 30 minutes.
Tickets: €0.60.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Ristorante Barbagia
(94 Via Galvani, tel: 0789
51640) This restaurant
is a reminder that
traditional Sardinian
cuisine is not the typical
Italian fare. Sink your
teeth in the best-selling
wild boar and tamata chi
sa frughe (local cheese)
and taste the difference.
EXCLUSIVE Offi cine
del Gusto (Centro
Storico con Dehor
All’aperto, tel: 0789
28701) Sipping wine
in the garden al fresco
is an essential Italian
experience best enjoyed
at Offi cine del Gusto,
which stocks the region’s
best varieties. Enjoy with
an octopus salad.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Phi Beach
(Baja Sardinia, Costa
Smeralda, tel: 0789
955 012) Cocktail in
hand, soak up the
seaside sunset and the
easygoing vibe right
before the crowds come
in for the glam fashion
show or parties that take
place almost every night.
LATE & LIVELY
Estasi’s Disco (Localita
La Ruda) Judging by
the reaction from the
crowd on a Saturday
night, Estasi’s Disco is
one of the more popular
places to be in Olbia.
Dancing continues on to
the early morning.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Local artisan
Marco Mulas creates
and sells metal furniture,
home furnishings,
and sculptures in his
workshop (19 Via Stazzu
Pirina, marcomulas.it).
GO Nearby Caprera
Island is popular among
tourists for hiking and
visiting the museum of
Garibaldi, one of Italy’s
revolutionary heroes.
Go scuba diving –
wrecks of Roman cargo
ships and Garibaldi’s
own boat can be seen.
NO WAY!
Italian is not the
mother tongue of most
Sardinians. They speak
in Sardo, other dialects,
and even Catalan.
The Sardinian town of
Alghero was a Spanish
port for 600 years.
Anna Elicano
The Best Western Paris Th e Best Montmartre Western Paris 3* Montmartre 3* hotel combines the
hotel combines the charm of a of beautiful a beautiful Haussmann style stone building and a
strategic situation in Montmartre, right in the heart of the
Haussmann style stone building and a
18th arrondissement...an ideal choice for your stay in Paris.
strategic situation in Montmartre, right in
the heart of the 18th
arrondissement.
Palermo
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Milan (MXP), Paris
(ORY), Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2006
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €50.
The Trinacria
Express goes
to the central station.
Tickets: €5.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Il Maestro
del Brodo (7 Via
Pannieri, tel: 091 329
523) This long-standing
local favourite started
out as an eatery that
served boiled meat and
quick meals, but in time
has expanded to serve
other dishes, including
the catch of the day.
EXCLUSIVE Bye
Bye Blues (23 Via del
Garofalo, tel: 091 684
1415) This award-winning
restaurant searches
the world-over for the
ingredients that make
its dishes so unique,
such as the lasagne with
goat’s cheese ricotta and
piacentino cheese. An
in-house sommelier and
impeccable service add
to the experience.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Enoteca
Picone (36 Via Marconi,
tel: 091 331 300) This
famous wine bar is the
perfect place to sip
on a glass of wine and
mingle with the locals.
Start your evening here.
LATE & LIVELY La
Cuba (Via Scaduto, Villa
Sperlinga, tel: 091 309
201) Always a favourite
of those in the know, this
lounge-bar situated in a
lush park is the venue of
choice for after-dinner
drinks. Mingle with the
beautiful people and
dance all night to DJ sets.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Millinery is a
dying art in Sicily, but in
Kalsa, the tradition is still
kept very much alive –
have your own hat made
in any of the shops
along Via Garibaldi or
in Piazza Rivoluzione.
SEE Both the Modern
Art Gallery and the
Contemporary Art
Gallery host exhibits of
artwork coming from the
Biennales in Marrakech,
Istanbul and Athens.
Until 28 November
(Galleria D’Arte
Moderna S Anna, 21
Via Sant’Anna; Galleria
D’Arte Contemporanea,
Palazzo Belmonte Riso).
NO WAY!
The Archaeological
Museum in Piazza
Olivella houses the
largest collection of
ancient anchors in
the world.
Conchita Vecchio

164 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Paris
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Agadir, Athens,
Biarritz, Belfast (BFS),
Berlin, Brest, Bristol,
Budapest, Casablanca,
Catania, Copenhagen,
Corsica (Ajaccio), Corsica
(Bastia), Dubrovnik,
Edinburgh, Faro, Fez,
Geneva, Glasgow,
Helsinki, Ibiza, Krakow,
Lisbon, Liverpool,
Ljubljana, London (LTN),
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,
Marrakech, Milan
(MXP, LIN), Mykonos,
Naples, Newcastle, Nice,
Olbia, Palermo, Pisa,
Porto, Prague, Rome
(CIA), Split, Tangier,
Toulouse, Venice, Zagreb
FROM THE
AIRPORT
ORLY
TAXI
SINCE
2002
Pre-book your
taxi at easyJet.
com. A local taxi
costs €35.
The Orly bus
stops at Place
Denfert-Rochereau.
Tickets: €6.40.
The RER B4
goes to
Châtelet. Trains run
from 6am–11pm.
Tickets: €9.85.
The C2 line takes
you straight to
Invalides. Tickets:
€7.60 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
ROISSY-CHARLES
DE GAULLE
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €45.
The Roissy Bus
stops at Opéra.
Tickets: €9.10.
Take the RER B3
to Gare du Nord.
Tickets: €8.80.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Des Crêpes et des
Cailles (13 Rue de
la Butte-aux-Cailles,
tel: 01 4581 6869)
Charming crêperie
with red-chequered
tablecloths right at
the heart of the
laidback Butte-aux-
Cailles district. Watch
the crêpes being made
in front of you in the
tiny dining room, then
eat in or take away.
UP TO €30 Bread &
Roses (25 Rue Boissy
d’Anglas, tel: 01 4742
4000) A gourmet deli,
bakery and tearoom
specialising in organic,
high-quality products.
Lunch and dinner
dishes include lobster
salad, crab and baby
artichoke, caviar-fortwo
with eggs and
warm potatoes. It’s
famous for its desserts
such as cheesecake,
sticky toffee pudding,
and Tartelette with
Autumn Fruits. The
prices may seem high,
but the prime peoplewatching
opportunities
make
it worth it.
UP TO €50 Le
Grand Colbert
(2 Rue Vivienne, tel:
01 4286 8788) A
traditional, turn-ofthe-century
brasserie
just above the chic
Palais Royal with
formal but friendly
waiters and a bustling
atmosphere at lunch
and dinner. It gained
international fame
when it appeared in
the Diane Keaton/
Jack Nicholson fi lm,
Something’s Gotta
Give, but still attracts
local shopkeepers
and bankers from the
Bourse district. Also
open for afternoon
tea, with an incredible
hot chocolate
on the menu.
EXCLUSIVE Davé
(12 Rue de Richelieu,
tel: 01 4261 4948)
It’s a tricky business
getting a table at
this famous low-lit
Chinese restaurant
near the Palais Royal,
HÔTEL DE
CASTIGLIONE
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
In the diplomacy area
and surrounded by
the most prestigious
shops in Paris. This
hotel is the perfect
place to unwind.
From €140, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
unless you’re wellknown
in the fashion
or entertainment
industries. Dress to
the nines and you may
be able to charm the
diminutive host Davé
into letting you in.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Lizard
Lounge (18 Rue du
Bourg-Tibourg, tel:
01 4272 8134)
Cocktails and a
low-key, friendly
atmosphere attract
a young, international
crowd to this bar in
the Marais. Head
downstairs to the
second DJ bar for
an extended happy
hour and dancing
until the wee hours.
LIVE MUSIC
Petit Journal Saint
Michel (71 Boulevard
St Michel, tel: 01 4326
2859) Jazz fans can
enjoy live concerts
from Monday–
Saturday in this casual
Latin Quarter hangout
near the Jardins
du Luxembourg. The
cover fee includes a
drink, or dine in the
restaurant and get
free entry to the
concerts thrown in for
free with the fab food.
LATE & LIVELY Les
Filles de Paris (57
Rue de Quincampoix,
tel: 01 4271 7220)
This laidback and
inclusive nightclub
recently opened
near the Centre
Pompidou and plays
eclectic electronic
music to a twentythirtysomethings
crowd of all
orientations until
dawn. It has karaoke
and burlesque
shows too, and the
restaurant is open late.
Favela Chic (18
Rue du Faubourg du
Temple, tel: 01 4021
3814) This popular
Brazilian restaurantbar-nightclub
near
République is one
of the sure bets in
east Paris for lively
booty shaking until
dawn. Free entry from
Tuesday to Thursday
nights, and €10
entry on Fridays and
Saturdays including
a drink, when live
DJs get the crowd
up on the tables (no,
really, they literally
do) until 4am.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Discover
the newly opened
boutique of the
Opéra Garnier, la
Galerie de l’Opéra
de Paris (entrance
at Rue Halévy, 9th)
open daily from
10am–6.30pm, with
opera-themed gifts,
accessories, toys, and
a multi-media library.
SEE Enjoy the latest
musical sounds of
pop, classical and jazz
at the Third Annual
Music & You festival
at the Grand Halle
de la Villette from
19–22 November.
Concerts, special
events, workshops,
conferences, and
demonstrations
from the world of
music (Parc de la
Vilette, 19th, salonmusique.com).
GO The Madeleine
district, with the
imposing Madaleine
Church at its centre,
is at the heart of the
banking and theatre
districts between the
Opéra and the Place
de la Concorde. It
is surrounded by
fashion and gourmet
food boutiques, as
well as the fl ower
market and discount
ticket kiosk.
ESCAPE Chantilly
is a perfectly
preserved town in
the centre of one of
the largest forests
near Paris. It has
a prestigious Living
Horse Museum built
in 18th-century
stables and a worldrenowned
collection
of paintings at the
Musée Condé (in the
Château de Chantilly).
The town is just
45-minutes north of
Paris by RER D, or
28 minutes by train
from Paris Gare
du Nord (chantillytourisme.com).
NO WAY!
Pierre Augustin
Caron de
Beaumarchais is
mainly known for
his plays, Barber of
Seville and Marriage
of Figaro. But he was
also a supporter of
the American
Revolution, smuggling
French and Spanish
arms and money to
insurgents under
the name Rodrigue
Hortalez et Cie
unbeknown to many.
Heather Stimmler-Hall

TAKE A
WINTER BREAK,
BRIGHTON
Looking for the perfect
city break? Brighton is
ideal all year round
BEST VALUE
IN PARIS
The Hotel Taylor will delight
both you and your wallet
SPECIAL
OFFER
Special rates for
November, visit
paristaylorhotel.com
for more info
ON THE RIGHT BANK, in a peaceful,
secluded position on a quiet one-way street
just outside the bustling centre of Paris and
within walking distance of Notre Dame, the
family-run boutique Hotel Taylor is the
perfect base from which to enjoy a romantic
break in the City of Light. Just a short walk
from the lively Marais district and close to
major department stores, the Place des
Vosges, Bastille and Canal Saint Martin, the
hotel’s location is unbeatable.
With a charming and cosy ambience as
well as 37 newly refurbished, sound-proofed
L’ART DE VIVRE A MOROCCO
Villa luxueuse – prix €200 000 TTC
Qui comprend terrain de 600 à 1000m 2
Entièrement arboré + surface villa plancher 180m 2
Plage piscine 100 m 2 + piscine de 28m 2
Luxurious villa – €200 000 including VAT
Includes land from 600 to 1000m 2
Level ground + surface oor 180m 2
Beach pool 100m 2 + swimming pool 28m 2
ADVERTISING PROMOTION
guestrooms and modern, romantic interiors,
you’ll be tempted to stay in, as well as to go
out. Hotel amenities include free WiFi, a
fl at-screen TV in every bedroom and a
sumptuous buffet breakfast. And the hotel’s
attentive and experienced staff are always on
hand to help with restaurant suggestions,
taxi bookings and more.
Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is
outstanding value for money – with single
rooms from just €80 and doubles from €91,
it is the hotel of choice for savvy travellers.
Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010 Paris,
tel: +33 (0)1 4240 1101
Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com
paristaylorhotel.com
Tel: +212 5 28 82 54 98
Email: imvaga@menara.ma
firstatlasimmo@hotmail.fr
Investissement Maroc Vacances
is a real-estate agency,
based in Agadir, Morocco.
We sell a selection of property
in the South of Morocco:
- VILLAS
- APARTMENTS
- RIADS (TRADITIONAL
MOROCCAN HOUSES)
- ESTATE FOR
BUSINESS PURPOSES
Offre exceptionelle de 5% de
remise pour tous les passagers en
mentionnant le code promotionnel eJ09
5% discount for all passengers
when quoting eJ 09

166 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Pisa
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, Bristol,
London (LGW, LTN),
Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2005
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €7.
Route 3 stops
at Pisa Central.
Tickets: €0.77.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Antica
Trattoria Il Campano
(19 Piazza delle
Vettovaglie, tel: 050 580
585) Friendly owner and
chef Gian Piero pays
homage to the truffl e,
the famous underground
fungi from San Miniato,
at this charming
restaurant. Try it with
tagliolini pasta, carpaccio
of meat with rocket and
parmesan cheese, or
simply fi llet of steak.
EXCLUSIVE India
(52 Via Roma, tel:
050 48513) Fit for a
maharajah! Authentic
Indian cuisine served
in a sumptuous
atmosphere with
traditional music playing
in the background.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Lo Sfi zio
(54 Borgo Stretto, tel:
05 058 0281) A famous
bar under the arcades of
Borgo Stretto. Excellent
after-dinner drinks as
well as a selection of
cocktails are available.
LATE & LIVELY
Bazeel (1 Lungarno
Pacinotti) A music pub
on the riverside next to
Ponte di Mezzo. Enjoy
music selected by DJ
Mr Raskal (not to be
confused with Dizzie)
and live concerts.
Open till 2am.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Via Santa Maria,
an old artery that
connects a riverside to
the Field of Miracles,
is fl anked on both
sides with speciality
shops selling Tuscan
handicrafts and foods
to take back home.
SEE For collectors and
enthusiasts, don’t miss
the antique books and
prints fair at Piazza
Martiri della Liberta
from 13–14 November.
Alternatively, check
out the the wild boar
festival in Chianni, near
Pisa, and sample all the
wild boar delights.
NO WAY!
University researchers
in Montreal have
teamed up with Pisa
University in pioneering
a way to administer
anesthesia without
being in the same
room – or even on the
same continent – as
patients! It’s known
as teleanesthesia.
Silvia Falsaperla
Porto
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London (LGW),
Lyon, Paris (CDG),
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
A local taxi costs
around €20.
Metro trains take
you to the centre.
Tickets: €1.40 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Casa
Agrícola (241–243
Rua Bom Sucesso,
tel: 22 605 3350) A
friendly atmosphere
is generated in this
wonderful building. Try
the smoked duck breast.
EXCLUSIVE
Escondidinho (144 Rua
Passos Manuel, tel: 22
200 1079) This venue
offers a rich variety of
dishes in a warm and
rustic atmosphere,
making it a favourite with
Port wine merchants.
The King of Spain and his
family have dined here.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café
Lusitano (137 Rua José
Falcão, tel: 22 201 1067)
A great place to chill out
during the day or before
a night out. This gay
bar-café with its 20thcentury
décor offers
tasty cakes as well.
LATE & LIVELY
Vogue (481 Avenida
Fontes Pereira de Melo,
tel: 22 617 9355) The
place in town to dance
your socks off. Open
Wednesdays, Fridays
and Saturdays from
midnight–6am.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Ovelha Negra
has a complete selection
of handmade knitted
goods, including a
selection of bags and
accessories. Just what
you need for a cold day.
(100 Rua Da Conceicao).
NO WAY!
It is often thought that
the Don Luis Bridge
was designed by the
famous French designer
Gustave Eiffel, but it was
designed by his student
Théophile Seyrig.
Joseph Guerra
JAZZ
FESTIVAL
SEE The ancient
town of Guimarães
hosts its 19th
festival from 11–20
November. The city
will put on a great
show for the public.
Try and buy tickets
before (ccvf.pt).
Prague
Czech Republic
DIALLING CODE +420
CURRENCY CZK
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Belfast, Bristol, Doncaster
Sheffi eld, London (LGW,
STN), Lyon, Milan (MXP),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
SECLUDED VILLA & FARMHOUSE
16 beds & 8 beds · Lucca area · super views · pool
tennis court · Pisa Airport 45 mins. www.lapianella.co.uk
TAXI
SINCE
1999
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A private Cedaz van
takes you to the city
for CZK90 per person.
Catch bus 119 to
Dejvicka then take
the A metro line to the
centre. Tickets: CZK26.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Bohemia
Bagel (19 Lazenska,
Prague 1, tel: 257
218 192) Ideal for
a quick bite, this den
champions bagels of
all persuasions, plus
quiches, salads and
even the odd burger, for
those after something
a little larger.
UP TO €30 U Pravdu
(15 Zitna, tel: 222 233
915) A new venue
with a charmingly old
school décor – all wood
panelling and sepia
portraits of chaps with
moustaches. If that
doesn’t put you off
your dinner, U Pravdu
dishes up hearty
Czech classics, that
don’t disappoint.
UP TO €50 Stoleti
(21 Karoliny Svetle, tel:
222 220 008) Despite
naming their dishes after
such diverse fi gures as
Agatha Christie, Gloria
Swanson, Toscanini and
Al Capone, “Century” is
as Czech as they come.
An ideal introduction to
Bohemian cuisine, that
won’t break the bank.
EXCLUSIVE Allegro
(2A Valeslavinova, tel:
221 427 000) Would
Mozart have felt
inspired to dash off
an Allegro after dining
here? According to the
Michelin men, yes – this
was the fi rst restaurant
in the former Eastern
Bloc to win one of their
coveted stars. It also
boasts an exceptional
riverside setting.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Grand
Cafe Orient (19 Ovocny
trh, tel: 224 224 240)
Brought back from the
dead in recent years, this
historic Cubist café is the
kind of place you could
imagine Kafka scribbling
away in a century ago.
Order a steaming
expresso to fend off the
cold and enjoy these
opulent surroundings.
LIVE MUSIC Vagon
(25 Narodni, Prague
1, tel: 221 085 599) A
redoubtable fi xture on
the live scene, Vagon
fl ies the fl ag for rock
and blues in the city,
and it’s built up a loyal
following in that realm.

LATE & LIVELY
Mecca (3 U Pruhonu,
tel: 283 870 522) The
fact that this party place
is located a little outside
the town centre hasn’t
stopped it becoming
the proverbial mecca for
clubbers. Split over two
fl oors, the venue dishes
up thumping house to
a crowd of committed
party animals.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For some
resolutely eccentric
souvenirs, drop into the
renowned Qubus design
store, which offers
everything from bizarre
baby head candle
holders to hip, funky
furniture (3 Rámová,
tel: 222 313 1512).
SEE Revellers keen to
paint the town Simply
Red might kick things
off with Mick Hucknall
and the boys on 14
November, who are
playing at the Tesla
Arena. For more sonic
shenanigans, and for
those too young, or too
cool to care who Simply
Red are, look out for
Lady Gaga on the 17th
(O2 Arena, o2arena.cz).
GO If you’re faced with
a rainy day, starry-eyed
adventurers might
check out what’s
on offer at one of
the world’s largest
planetariums. The
Prague Planetarium
offers exhibitions, talks,
and, of course, star
gazing (233 Kralovska
Obora, planetarium.cz)
ESCAPE November
is not the prettiest
month to be outside, so
why not go full-blown
gothic and visit the
famed Chapel of
Skulls at Sedlec. This
macabre masterpiece
contains the bones of
some 50,000 souls.
Unsurprisingly, it has
fi red the imagination
of many artists,
most recently Rob
Zombie (he of The
Haunted World of El
Superbeasto) for his
movie House of 1000
Corpses. The journey
to Sedlec takes around
two and a half hours.
NO WAY!
The iconic status of
Prague band The Plastic
People of the Universe
was such that the
Communists eventually
put the group on trial
and imprisoned them.
The rockers continued
to play illicit gigs after
their release, including
rural raves hosted
by freedom fi ghter
and future president
Vaclav Havel.
Nick Hodge/
prague-life.com
BEST
WESTERN PAV
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Hotel Páv’s location
enables easy access
to the historic part
of Prague, while
still offering a great
atmosphere to relax
in. From €65, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Pristina
Kosovo
DIALLING CODE +381
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
NEW FROM
2010
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
The bus to the city
centre departs
every two hours from
9am–6pm. Tickets: €3.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Cantina
Am-Pm (Rruga Qamil
Hoxha, tel: 377 4971
0710) Very tasty and
affordable Mexican
food and pizzas are on
the menu of this small
and friendly restaurant.
There’s a terrace, too if
the weather holds.
EXCLUSIVE
Hemingway (Rruga
Ilaz Kodra, tel: 377 4414
5637) Consistently
excellent, fresh seafood
has kept this small
and charming family
restaurant in business
for many years now.
It’s best to just order
what came off the boat
that morning and the
cook will turn it into
something delicious.
WELCOME TO DUO HOTEL PRAGUE !
… Your best value-for-money accommodation
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Click
(Rruga Luan Haradinaj,
tel: 377 4493 3522)
Locals mingle at Click,
a modern bar where
a wide variety of beers
and a good mix of food
come together.
LATE & LIVELY Cube
(2 Rruga Johan Hahn,
tel: 377 4412 4584) A
city-centre club that’s
popular with young,
well-dressed people.
Drinks are affordable,
the sound levels are
high and it’s crammed
on weekend nights.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For quality, oldfashioned
men’s caps
and hats get yourself
down to the A&M Shop
on the corner of Rruga
Konusheci and Rruga
UCK. The handmade
collection also includes
Albanian eggshell hats.
GO Board the early
morning train towards
Fushe Kosova and
Skopje – the nostalgic
wooden 1960s carriages
and the impressive
locomotive once plied
the tracks between
Oslo and Bergen,
Norway. Now you can
enjoy countryside
views and gorges.
NO WAY!
Pristina’s recently
inaugurated Catholic
cathedral is named
after Mother Teresa.
On completion of the
building a statue of this
world-famous nun will
be erected in front of
the main doors.
Jeroen van Marle/
inyourpocket.com
DESTINATION GUIDES | 167
Rome
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Athens, Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Bilbao, Bristol,
Crete (Heraklion),
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,
Geneva, Ibiza, Lamezia,
Lisbon, London (LGW),
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,
Malta, Milan (MXP),
Mykonos, Newcastle,
Nice, Palermo,
Paris (ORY), Split,
Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
CIAMPINO
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
SIT runs a service
from the airport to
the centre. Tickets: €5
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
FIUMICINO
TAXI
SEE OUR BRAND NEW OFFERS
& SPECIAL PACKAGES!
Hotel DUO Praha****
+420 266 133 011
www.hotelduo.cz
SINCE
1998
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €40 in
a City of Rome licensed
cab and €60 in a
Fiumicino municipality
licensed cab.
The Leonardo
Express leaves
for Termini till 11.30pm.
Tickets: €11.
SIT runs a service from
the city centre to the
airport. Tickets: €8
Metropolitan FM1
trains go to Roma
Tiburtina until 11.27pm.
Tickets: €5.50 single.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Le
Piramidi (11 Vicolo
del Gallo, tel: 06 687
9061) Mohammed
Salama’s fantastic
city centre falafel bar
also offers a range of
vegetable and meat
dishes and desserts.
There are a few bar
stools, but it’s best to
go for porta via and
eat al fresco in nearby
Campo de’ Fiori.
UP TO €30 Terra di
Siena (77 Piazza di
Pasquino, tel: 06 6830
7704) Very typical
Tuscan cooking served
in a welcoming, familyrun
trattoria. As it is the
hunting season, why
not go for the tagliatelli
with wild boar sauce?
For dessert they do a
delicious lemon sorbet.
UP TO €50
Le Tamerici (79 Vicolo
Scavolino, tel: 06 6920
0700) This minimalist
and modern restaurant
near the Trevi Fountain
boasts an impressive
selection of breads and
homemade olive oil,
but you shouldn’t go
overboard and leave
no room for mains.
Try the pelt pasta with
tomatoes, basil and the
rich, milky mozzarella
– such as burrata from
Apulia or tender buffalo
meat, which you won’t
fi nd elsewhere in
Rome. For dessert, go
for the delicious apple
strudel with cinnamon
whipped cream.

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Rome
Italy
Uno e Bino (58
Via degli Equi, San
Lorenzo, tel: 06
446 0702) Situated
in a quiet part of
San Lorenzo, the
student area of the
city, Uno e Bino,
with its atmospheric
stone fl oor and
wooden tables, offers
outstanding gourmet
food that refl ects the
Gravina family roots
in Umbria and Sicily.
Try their wonderful
Parmiggiano souffl é
or if you are feeling
adventurous, the
octopus salad.
EXCLUSIVE
Vivendo del St
Regis Grand (3 Via
Vittorio Emmanuele
Orlando, tel: 06
4709 2736) A top
class establishment
set in a swish and
famous hotel. Maître
d’ Luciano Cerri and
his courteous and
attentive staff serve
dishes including rice
with lamb sauce
and black truffl e. For
dessert why not try
the unusual tomato
gazpacho with orange
and mint and pearls
of fresh fruit?
Le Sans Souci (20
Via Sicilia, tel: 06
4201 4510) Dine in
elegant surroundings
on delicacies such as
tortelli with truffl es,
duck-dove in a
millefeuille crust, or
steamed sea bass
with very thin slices
of courgette and
tomatoes in balsamic
A LFRIERI
STUDIO DENTISTICO
vinegar, produced by
the best Italian and
French chefs under
the exacting gaze
of Bruno Borghesi.
Be careful to leave
room for a helping
of Grand Marnier
souffl é for dessert.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Latteria
del Gallo (4 Vicolo
del Gallo, tel: 06 686
5091) A short stroll
from über-trendy
Campo dei Fiori, you
can take a trip back to
the 1950s in the city
centre’s last old-style
milk bar. Old football
posters peel off the
walls along with the
paint. Good for coffee,
cakes, pinball and
feeling like you are
on an old fi lm set.
LIVE MUSIC
La Palma (35 Via
Giuseppe Mirri,
Tiburtino, tel: 06 4356
6581) Set in a former
industrial building, La
Palma is now a venue
for all the best, most
happening music
trends. It also serves
great food and has
art events on offer.
LATE & LIVELY
Transilvania (13A
Via Cardinale Merry
Del Val, tel: 06 580
6899) A hard-rock
pub with a decidedly
Hammer Horror
theme. Customers sit
at coffi ns rather than
tables and drink from
“skulls”. Light-hearted
fun, in the strangest
possible taste.
La Saponeria (20
Via degli Argonauti,
tel: 06 574 6999) La
Saponeria (the Soap
Factory) hosts some
of Italy’s best DJs,
who play a wide range
of hip hop and house
hits. Only open from
Thursday–Saturday,
but always packed
to the gunnels on
those nights.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Valzani is an
old fashioned and
very atmospheric
cioccolateria, open
since 1925, in the heart
of buzzing Trastevere,
selling an assortment
of homemade
chocolates and cakes
(37 Via Del Moro,
tel: 06 580 3792).
SEE Rome Jazz
Festival brings
a selection of
international artists to
the city. Concerts are
held all over the city
but the biggest ones
take place at the very
up-to-date Auditorium
Parco della Musica
and are divided into
three sections – Focus
Orchestras, Events
and Previews (30 Viale
Pietro de Coubertin).
GO The Basilica di San
Giovanni in Laterano
ranks as the second
most important one
for Roman Catholics.
Only the pope is
permitted to offi ciate
at its 14th-century
Baldacchino altar.
Believers climb up
the Scala Santa (Holy
Staircase) behind the
basilica on their knees.
If you prefer to walk,
go up the sides.
ESCAPE Hacked
out of a vast plateau
of volcanic rock, the
centre of Orvieto is
a great place for lunch,
an afternoon walk
and, of course, for
trying some of the
town’s famous wine.
Trains depart from
Termini and Tiburtina
stations, and take
around an hour.
NO WAY!
If you’ve been
brushing up on your
Italian before visiting,
you may nevertheless
fi nd yourself confused
when listening to
Romans talk. Even
if only a few of them
fully use the old
Romanesco dialect,
many people still talk
the Roman way, which
among other things
means chopping the
ends of most words.
For example, “let’s eat”
in standard Italian is
andiamo a mangiare,
while in Romanaccio it
becomes namo
a magna.
Alan Goldwater
CRISTOFORO
COLOMBO
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
The hotel is in the
immediate outskirts of
Rome’s centre, perfect
for those wishing to
get away from it all.
Breakfast included.
From €65, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
DO YOU WANT TO SAVE 50% ON
YOUR DENTAL TREATMENT?
Treatments at The Alfrieri clinic are up to 50% cheaper than
most in the UK, Germany and France.
DESTINATION GUIDES | 169
Salzburg
Austria
DIALLING CODE +43
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Grenoble,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €15.
Trains run to the
Hauptbahnhof
station. Tickets: €9.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Maiers
(61 Steingasse, tel:
0662 879 379) This
place is famous for its
kind staff and a homely
atmosphere – expect
a menu with few chosen
local dishes, excellently
prepared and in
abundant portions.
EXCLUSIVE Itzlinger
Hof (11 Itzlinger
Hauptstrasse, tel: 0662
451 210) The menu of
the family-run restaurant
offers hearty specialities
such as Iberico pork
with pumpkin sauce,
and lighter ones such as
pasta or a gilthead fi llet
with spinach risotto.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Mozart’s
(1 Mozartplatz, tel:
0662 843 8492) The
comfortable lounge is
the right place if you
want to have a glass
of wine. Accompanied
by the sweet plum
omelette dessert.
LATE & LIVELY
Baboon
(11 Imbergstrasse, tel:
0662 885 932) This
club is frequented by
a local twentysomething
crowd and famous for
a mix of great tunes,
including acid jazz, rock
and disco music.
THIS MONTH
SHOP You don’t need
to wait for sales to
shop at this place: the
boutique is an insider
tip for the young crowd,
and offers clothes and
accessories designed by
the young artist scene
from Salzburg and
Vienna, check out the
Beat’o Eco collection (2
Lederergasse, tel: 0699
1045 5883).
SEE If you like modern
art, have a look at
the exhibition by
Jürgen Klauke, one of
the leading German
artists in the area of
body art. The unusual
exhibition presents
his photographic work
and video installations.
Throughout the month
(Museum der Moderne
Rupertinum, 9 Wiener
Philharmoniker Gasse).
NO WAY!
The largest nature
reserve of the Alps, the
National Park Hohe
Tauern, has its largest
part located in the
province of Salzburg.
Uros Urosevic

ADVERTISING PROMOTION
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Dr. Hanan El Kahky
Pro. Of Aesthetic Dermatology
Ain Shams University
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Look Young, Feel Young, Be Young
THE RED SEA RESORT of Sharm El Sheikh,
situated at the southern point of the Sinai
Peninsula, is home to some of the world’s
most celebrated diving attractions – a
perfect destination for both experienced
divers and fi rst timers. The world-famous
Ras Mohammed National Park boasts
incredible coral growth, particularly on
the Shark and Yolanda reefs. During
the summer months, this area is a hotspot
for snappers, barracudas, whales, sharks
and dolphins.
Head north from Ras Mohammed to the
Strait of Tiran and you’ll fi nd a coral garden
described by scuba diving pioneer Jacques
Cousteau as one of the most spectacular
reefs he had ever seen.
The steep-sided walls of Jackson Reef
house some of the most beautiful coral cover
in the Sinai region, including the famous
rare red anemone. And although it’s far
from guaranteed, you might also catch a
glimpse of the resident scalloped
hammerhead sharks here.
Wrecks are also a major pull for visitors,
with one of the most famous sunken
attractions located just a few hours by boat
from Sharm. Consistently voted one of the
best wreck dives, the Thistlegorm attracts
scuba visitors from all over the world.
With accommodation options to suit
every budget and discounted diving and
accommodation packages on offer, Sharm
really is a deep sea enthusiast’s dream
come true!
For more information on all the Red Sea
resorts and a full list of legal diving and
watersport operators in Egypt
please visit: cdws.travel

Sharm El
Sheikh Egypt
DIALLING CODE +20
CURRENCY EGP
FLY FROM
Geneva, London
(LGW, LTN), Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs EGP120.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Dananeer
(Naama Bay, tel: 069
360 0321) Consistently
reliable food and service
help to ensure this
restaurant’s place as
an old-time favourite of
Sharm locals. The menu
offers an impressive
number of meat and
seafood dishes.
EXCLUSIVE Rangoli
(Sofi tel, Naama Bay,
tel: 069 360 0081)
Authentic Indian
cuisine comes with
attentive service at this
restaurant located in the
fi ve-star Sofi tel hotel.
Perched on the edge of a
cliff, the magnifi cent sea
views complement the
sumptuous ambience.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The Tavern
Bar (Mall 14, Naama Bay,
tel: 012 765 2800) With
a distinctly traditional
pub feel about it, The
Tavern plays regular host
to karaoke nights, and
boasts the best Sunday
lunch and full English
breakfast in town.
LATE & LIVELY
Pacha (Naama Bay, tel:
069 360 0197) With its
legendary House Nation
parties featuring top
international DJs, Pacha
is defi nitely the hippest
club in town. The
open-air venue includes
cocktail bars, swimming
pools and VIP rooms.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Located in the
Camel Hotel, Tribe sells
quality dive, desert and
casual clothing in both
men’s and women’s
fi t. Accessories include
an exclusive range of
handcrafted stylish
jewellery made from
antique Afghan silver
and semi-precious
stones (Naama Bay).
SEE Every night the
open-air stage at La
Strada in Nabq features
free live entertainment
including music, fi re,
magic and oriental dance
shows. This piazza-style
mall also contains many
restaurants, boutiques
and souvenir shops as
well as plenty of open
spaces with safe areas
for children to play.
NO WAY!
St Katherine’s
Monastery, located in
the heart of the Sinai,
is home to a vast and
ancient library of
religious texts second to
only that of the Vatican.
Penny Orford
Sofia
Bulgaria
DIALLING CODE +359
CURRENCY Leu (BGN)
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Madrid, Manchester,
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs BGN14.
Catch bus 84
or bus 284.
Tickets: BGN1. The
white marshrutkas van
number 30 goes to the
centre. Tickets: BGN1.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Gara
za Dvama (18 Georgi
Benkovski Ulitza, tel:
989 7675) Based on the
1982 Soviet fi lm of the
same name, Gara za
Dvama (Station For Two)
was designed to be like a
small train carriage and
offers Russian meals
and good vodka.
EXCLUSIVE Vishnite
(45 Hristo Smirnenski
Ulitsa, tel: 963 4984)
Expect fl awless
service, elegantly laid
tables piled high with
classy cutlery and
glassware, and a small
but well-chosen menu
of modern European
dishes, prepared with
fl air and imagination.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Villa
Rosiche (26 Neofi t
Rilski Ulitsa, tel: 954
3072) With a winning
combination of great
cakes, strong coffee and
homely pots of tea, this
inviting café-bakery is
well worth a visit.
LATE & LIVELY After
Five Drink (1 Malko
Tarnovo Ulitsa, tel: 988
1489) This elegant retrostyle
venue plays the
hottest sounds and you’ll
be pleased to see that
the drinks are offered at
reasonable prices. Arrive
after 10pm, when the
party really gets going.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Pingvinite
Bookshop, in the
underpass of the Sofi a
University, is a vast,
500m 2 space, full
of books. It offers
a great variety of
books and also delicious
cakes, juices and coffee
(18 Graf Ignatiev).
GO The Red House
Centre for Culture and
Debate has plenty of
different kinds of art,
artistic performances
and varied political,
social and cultural
lectures and conferences
worth checking out (15
Ljuben Karavelov Ulitsa).
NO WAY!
Bulgaria has the third
highest number of
valuable archaeological
monuments in Europe,
just behind Greece
and Italy.
Maya Kozareva
DESTINATION GUIDES | 171
Stockholm
Sweden
DIALLING CODE +46
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)
FLY FROM
Geneva,
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs SEK450.
The Arlanda goes
to the city centre.
Tickets: SEK240 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Brofästet
(13 Hornstulls Strand,
tel: 08 767 6687) This
raw concrete space
aspires to Manhattan
LATE & LIVELY
Spy Bar (20 Biger
Jarlsgatan, tel: 08
5450 3704) Once
inside you will be
partying in a mansion
underneath crystal
chandeliers with
Stockholm’s hippest
youngsters.
coolness, and succeeds.
The cuisine is American
with Japanese and
Spanish infl uences. Try
the mussels with lotusroot
and a glass of Long
Island Chardonnay.
EXCLUSIVE Björk
Bar och Grill (50
Rålambshovsleden, tel:
08 441 3150) Inspired
by Nordic nostalgia, this
newish and ambitious
hotel restaurant serves
wonderful Scandinavian
food well worth the price
tag. Farm-raised cod
with smashed potatoes
á la Jansson is to die for.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Cadierbaren
Grand Hotel (8
Blasieholmshamnen)
This old-school hotel bar
features casino-carpeted
fl oors, tuxedo-clad
waiters and a stunning
view of the royal castle.
The drinks are stirred
and shaken to perfection.
THIS MONTH
SHOP On a gallerydense
stretch of one of
Söder’s main drags, you
will fi nd this shop and
gallery space ran as a
co-op by working potters
and glassblowers (Blås &
Knåda, 26A Hornsgatan).
SEE Experience
Sandy Skoglund’s
surreal world in the
exhibit The Artifi cial
Mirror at Fotografi ska.
Till 6 November (22
Stadsgårdshamnen).
NO WAY!
Stieg Larsson’s
Millennium Trilogy has
sold over 20 million
copies worldwide.
Victoria Larsson
PLANNING TO ENJOY THE RED SEA?
Avoid Rogue Operators

172 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Tallinn
Estonia
DIALLING CODE +372
CURRENCY Kroon (EEK)
FLY FROM
Liverpool,
London (STN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs EEK150.
Route 2 goes
to the centre.
Tickets: EEK25.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Korsaar
(5 Dunkri, tel: 666
8064) Tuck into Creole
cuisine that would surely
please Jack Sparrow
and mates at this piratethemed
restaurant.
EXCLUSIVE
Tchaikovsky (9 Vene,
tel: 600 0610) A
fusion of Russian and
French cuisines is a
real symphony in this
luxurious setting. Think
traditional gentlemen’s
club with chandeliers,
and oil paintings.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Gloria Wine
Cellar (2 Müürivahe)
This cosy underground
hideaway claims to
offer one of the widest
choices of Nordic wine.
LATE & LIVELY Bon
Bon (6E Mere Puiestee)
One of the classiest, but
certainly not the largest,
options in town. Usually
fi lled with a beautiful,
twentysomething crowd
seeking decadence.
THIS MONTH
SHOP St Martin’s
Day Fair will showcase
national handicraft
workshops and stalls
accompanied by
traditional culinary
delights and folk music.
From 11–13 November.
GO St Catherine’s
Passage & Masters
Courtyard is an artsy
medieval passage and
a lively courtyard next
to the St Catherine’s
Dominican Monastery
founded in 1246.
NO WAY!
Estonians consider
Vana Tallinn liqueur and
Vana Tallinn Cream their
strong national potions.
Sip carefully with a straw,
even in November!
Ain Hinsberg
SCHLOSSLE
HOTEL
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
The luxury hotel is
housed in a historical,
well-restored building
that dates back
to 1363. Breakfast
included. From
€85, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
Tangier
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Madrid, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs MAD100.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 La Giralda
(Immeuble Mirador
Avenue Pasteur, tel:
0539 370 407) Enjoy
one of the best views
overlooking the Straits of
Gibraltar while sampling
an excellent traditional
Moroccan breakfast
from inside this ultramodern
monument
to Arab kitsch.
EXCLUSIVE Le
Nabab (4 Rue Al Kadiria,
Kasbah, tel: 0661 148
215) With three cosy
rooms and soft lighting,
this is Moroccan cuisine
in a chic Kasbah setting.
Try the beef and prune
or chicken and apricot
tagines – either are
fi ne examples of
national cuisine.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Le Coeur
de Tanger (1 Rue
Anoual, Place de France,
tel: 0539 948 450) One
of Tangier’s secret gems,
this bar offers a good
selection of tapas, and
a balcony view in the
bustling heart of the city.
LATE & LIVELY
Hotel Tarik (Avenue
Mohamed VI, tel: 0539
340 949) Guaranteed
to be the last bar open,
this is one of the few
places you can party
until dawn in this city.
The cabaret-style music
and cheap drinks mean
that this hotel bar-club
starts to fi ll up late.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Regis Milcent
specialises in antiques,
colonial-style objets
d’art, and unique printed
fabrics and furnishings. A
purchase here would be
to take home your own
bit of the Tangier myth
(Angle Rue Ibn Zaydoun
et Rue Casablanca, tel:
0539 375 837).
SEE Tanjalatina Music
Festival, held from 4–6
November, is a tribute
to Latin music, and
combines tango and
salsa classes, as well as
open air concerts free
to the public (Palais des
Institutions, Avenue
Hassan II, Hasnouna).
NO WAY!
Dar-el-Makhzen in the
Kasbah, which today
houses the Museum of
Moroccan Arts, was the
palace to which the last
Sultan of independent
Morocco was exiled
during the French
Protectorate. He moved
in with his entire harem,
slaves and personnel.
Aman te Water
Tel Aviv
Israel
DIALLING CODE +972
CURRENCY ILS
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London (LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2009
A local taxi costs
around ILS120.
Trains go to the
Central and
HaShalom stations.
Tickets: ILS13.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Shalvata
(Hangar 25, Tel Aviv
Port, tel: 05 7944
2873) During the day,
Shalvata has a lovely
family atmosphere – Tel
Avivians come here to
enjoy Mediterranean
food al fresco while their
kids play in sandboxes
in the waterfront nearby
– even on a cold day
there are a few lively
kids out there.
EXCLUSIVE Catit
(4 Heichal Hatalmud,
tel: 03 510 7001) A
gourmet restaurant
popular for its cuisine,
not its stuffy ambience.
The welcoming staff
and chef Meir Adoni’s
creative fusion dishes –
think goat yoghurt ravioli
– achieve that for Catit.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Mish Mish
(17 Lilenblum Street,
tel: 03 516 8178) The
designated meeting
point for Tel Avivians
who prefer to get the
night started with great
conversations, jazz
music, and cocktails
before heading out for
heavy partying.
LATE & LIVELY
Gazoz (1 Yordey Hasira,
tel: 05 0422 2444)
Although it just
opened recently, in
May this year, Gazoz’s
trendy, spacious
interiors are crammed
full of partygoers
who go there to dance
and drink till the
small hours.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Charming and
non-touristsy Camel
Market is a good place
to immerse in local
culture and pick up
a few bits to munch
while doing the
sightseeing tour
of the city.
SEE Andy Warhol’s
Jewish Portraits are
on exhibit at the Beit
Hatfutsot Museum of
the Jewish People
until 19 November
(Klausner Street, tel:
03 745 7808).
NO WAY!
The Israeli government
heavily fund start-up
companies, and
with great reward –
voicemail and AOL’s
instant messaging
system, among
many others were
developed in Israel.
Anna Elicano

Know a
terrific hotel?
We do.
At TripAdvisor ® , you’ll find more
than 35 million trusted reviews and
opinions of hotels, restaurants, and
attractions, all by travellers like you.
tripadvisor.com tripadvisor.co.uk tripadvisor.de
tripadvisor.es tripadvisor.fr tripadvisor.ie tripadvisor.it
tripadvisor.nl no.tripadvisor.com tripadvisor.se
pl.tripadvisor.com tripadvisor.dk tripadvisor.com.tr
Find TripAdvisor hotel reviews at
www.hotels.easyJet.com
The Cavendish
London, UK
“The bed was the best I have
ever slept on”
Design Metropol Hotel
Prague, Czech Republic
“Fantastic rooftop terrace
with a 360° view of all
of Prague”
Silken Puerta America
Madrid, Spain
“Each of the hotel’s twelve
storeys is designed in a
unique style by a different
designer or architect.”
Enterprise Hotel
Milan, Italy
“The dining room is chic,
superb with beautiful decor
and great food.”

174 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Tenerife
South Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, London
(LGW), Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2008
A local taxi costs
around €25.
Route 487 stops at
Los Cristianos and
Playa de Las Americas.
Tickets: €3 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 The Pig
Farm (Plaza de la
Iglesia, Cabo Blanco, tel:
922 720 170) Join the
locals at this authentic
restaurant, which
specialises in succulent
suckling pig and a good
choice of regional wines.
EXCLUSIVE El Torre
del Mirador (Playa
del Duque, tel: 922 712
209) An exceptional
restaurant serving fi vestar
food in a magical
atmosphere. Fish lovers
will return again for the
cherne a la bilbaina.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Harry’s Bar
(Centro Comercial Safari,
Playa de Las Americas)
Hang out in the coolest
bar in town, listening to
a live saxophonist while
watching the dazzling
fountain display.
LATE & LIVELY
Banana Gardens
(Edifi cio Palm Beach,
Playa de Las Americas)
Live fl amenco shows
and after-dinner dancing
are the order of the
day here. On Tuesdays,
visitors are treated to
island folklore singing.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Torviscas market
in the heart of Playa
de Las Americas takes
place every Thursday
and Saturday morning,
selling a variety of
locally made products.
GO The newly restored
Casa del Patio, situated
in Santiago del Teide, was
built in the 1660s and
includes a shop selling
island products and a
Tasca with local cuisine.
NO WAY!
Tene means mountain
and ife means white – a
reference to Mount Teide.
Natasha Laming
BARCELÓ
SANTIAGO
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Located in a beautiful
setting, commanding
impressive views of
the area, this hotel
is sure to make you
relax. Half board.
From €110, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Thessaloniki
Greece
DIALLING CODE +30
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Dortmund, London
(LGW), Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Route 78 goes to
the city centre.
Tickets: €0.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Loutros
(5 Miltiadi Koundoura,
tel: 2310 228 895)
This is an excellent and
inexpensive little taverna
which specialises in
fried seafood and fi sh,
has a great selection
of dips, salads and
other mezedes, and
serves increasingly rare
barrelled retsina.
EXCLUSIVE Elia
Lemoni (19A Markou
Botsari, tel: 2310 865
600) This upmarket
restaurant with a smart
interior specialises in
meat dishes, ranging
from rabbit stew to
succulent skewered
lamb. Don’t miss the
Mitilini cheese with
roasted almonds.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Borzoi (35
N Plastira, tel: 2310
455 568) Borzoi is the
ideal spot for a drink in
a classy environment
right on the seafront.
The music is relaxing
during the day but later
it plays a good selection
of more upbeat sounds.
LATE & LIVELY Malt
& Jazz (2 Proxenou
Koromila) Thessaloniki
shows its cosmopolitan
side at this wellestablished
club, where
there is quality live jazz
most nights a week.
The sounds start
around midnight.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Modiano market
is a fantastic place to
wander around and
search for local produce,
from freshly baked
bread to olives and
seasonal fruit. Its colours
and enticing smells
captivate any visitor
(32 Vasileos Irakliou).
GO Thessaloniki’s
busiest street, Egnatia,
offers a selection of
shops, restaurants and
churches, as well as
three main squares and
several archaeological
highlights to see.
NO WAY!
Thessaloniki’s population
almost doubled with the
infl ux of Greek refugees
after the Asia Minor
disaster in 1922–23.
The city’s biggest
football team, PAOK,
which takes its name
from Constantinople
(Istanbul), is an example
of this infl uence.
Nick Edwards
Toulouse
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Geneva,
London (LGW), Lisbon,
Lyon, Madrid, Milan
(MXP), Paris (CDG, ORY),
Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2003
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
The Toulouse-
Blagnac Navette
goes to the city centre.
Tickets: €6 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Chez
Ingalls (164 Route
de Revel, tel: 05 6247
1471) The Ingalls family
lived in the Little House
on the Prairie and this
massive restaurant is a
tribute to them. Perhaps
surprisingly, it’s not
touristy or tacky. Enjoy
the BBQ, the crunchy
salads, the décor and
the rocking chair.
EXCLUSIVE Py-R
(19 Rue des Paradoux,
tel: 05 6125 5152) This
gourmet fi sh restaurant
is a newbie in town but
already making a splash.
There is fresh fi sh daily
plus, lobster, foie gras,
rump steak and black
chocolate mousse.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY La Maison
(9 Rue Gabriel-Peri,
tel: 05 6162 8722)
Candlelight, fl ames from
the fi replace dancing on
the wall, a little soft jazz
in the background, a few
delicious munchies, a
cocktail or two... You’ll
set up camp in here and
never want to leave.
LATE & LIVELY Le
Quartier Latin (Place
Roueix, tel: 05 6152
3382) A lively watering
hole much loved by
students, this place puts
on some very popular
theme nights. The tapas
are homemade, the
prices are good and the
place is intimate.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Tresor Secret
is a pearl shop. Ivory,
pink, milk, snow-white:
whatever your taste, it
has the pearls you want.
It also has the skilled
jewellers to create the
designs you’ve always
had in mind (5 Rue
des Tourneurs).
SEE Séquence Court-
Métrage is a festival of
short fi lms taking place
from 12–28 November.
This is a chance to
see experimental
cinema and fi lms from
tomorrow’s big-name
directors (sequencecourt.com).
NO WAY!
Underground trains in
Toulouse don’t have
human drivers – they
are automatic.
Samantha David

Great Deals
On Board
Muffin Deal
A Starbucks hot
drink and a
muffin
£4.00
€4.50
SAVE 60p €1.00
Breakfast Deal
A Starbucks hot drink and
bacon baguette
£6.00
€7.50
SAVE 50p 50 cents
Double D bl UUp DDeal l
2 Sandwiches and 2 Wines
£12.20 €15.00
SAVE £3.00 €4.00
Sandwich Deal
Sandwich, a soft drink
(Vittel Water, Pepsi,
Pepsi Max, 7UP) and
Pringles
£6.00 €7.50
SAVE 60p €1.00
Subject to availability and available on selected aircraft only. Alternative meal deals available on Swiss based aircraft

Celebrate our
15th Birthday
Gulliver Bear in
his Birthday T-Shirt
£10.00 €13.00
See pages 4 and
5
in Boutique ue and Bistro
stro st
(Product
may vary) ges 4 and
Subject to av availability.
FREE
Lily O’Briens
Chocolate
with every half bottle
of Champagne
£15.00/€19.50
2 Breo Watches for
£15.00 €19.50
Save £5.00
€6.50

Valencia
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2004
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €16.
Metro lines run
to the city centre.
Tickets: €1.90
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Bacco
D.O.C (29 Calle Los
Derechos, tel: 963 911
965) A treat for you
and your loved one in a
unique cave-like setting
where your can dine on
delicious Italian cuisine,
served by friendly, but
unimposing waiting staff.
EXCLUSIVE Riff
(18 Calle Conde Altea,
tel: 963 335 353) Head
chef and owner Bernd
Knöller has invested
15 years of his life into
this establishment.
For those willing to pay
for something not just
extra but very special
indeed. Superb tapas
at mediodía and
exquisite meals at night
time, accompanied by
fi ne wine to wash it
all down with.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Laboratorio
(3 Plaza Cors de la Mare
de Deu, tel: 963 926
193) A laidback bar with
something different
going on most nights be
it language exchange,
tapas or happy hours.
LATE & LIVELY
Portland Bar (10 Calle
Salamanca) Lively
American style-sports
bar popular with all
nationalities. Live music
is usually played on
Fridays, there’s a Spanish
quiz night on Sundays
and handcrafted ales
on tap from their very
own brewery every day –
open till 2am.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Luxury
delicatessen and wine
merchants Cuvée
Selecta offers all the
ingredients for a very
stylish celebration. Stock
up on artisan pastas,
hams and bubbly (25
Calle Literato Azorín).
GO Getting to Xativa
(Jativa) by fast train
from Valencia takes 30
minutes. The small town
is famous for its cliff-top
castle that served as a
strategic vantage point
for the Valencia region’s
founding father King
Jaime I during his 13thcentury
crusade.
NO WAY!
Valencia’s symbol of
the bat is believed to
come from King Jaume
I of Aragon’s encounter
with a bat prior to
successfully leading his
army in retaking the city
from the Moors in 1238.
Andy McNicoll
Venice
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Ibiza, London
(LGW), Lyon, Naples, Paris
(CDG, ORY), Rome (FCO)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1998
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
The ACTV yellow
bus 5 runs to
Piazzale Roma. Tickets:
€2.50 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Dalla
Marisa (652B
Fondamenta San
Giobbe, Cannaregio,
tel: 041 720 211)
Check out this relaxed
canalside trattoria for
a meal that’s cheap,
fi lling and tasty. The
menu changes daily but
delicious home cooking
is always guaranteed.
UP TO €30 Alla
Vedova (3912 Calle del
Pistor, Cannareggio,
tel: 041 528 5324)
One of Venice’s oldest
hostelries, this place is
popular with locals and
visitors alike. The interior
is rustic and traditional
and the menu is typically
Venetian. Book a table
or just pop in for a drink
and a snack at the bar.
UP TO €50 Da Ignazio
(2749 Calle Saoneri, San
Polo, tel: 041 523 4852)
Family-run for the past
60 years, Da Ignazio
serves homemade pasta
and simple but tasty fi sh
dishes such as baked
sea bass and mixed fried
fi sh. Take a table in the
pretty courtyard if the
weather permits.
EXCLUSIVE Il Nuovo
Galeon (1308 Via
Garibaldi, Castello, tel:
041 520 4656) Located
between the Arsenale
and the Biennale
gardens, this wellestablished
restaurant
specialises in fi sh and
is much frequented by
Venetians. The boat
which gives the place
its name adds to the
maritime character
of the interior.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Cantinone
Già Schiavi (992
Fondamenta Nani, tel:
ELITE HOTEL
RESIDENCE
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
This warm and cosy
hotel offers you the
perfect way to recover
after a day seeing the
wonders of Venice.
Breakfast Included.
From €75, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
DESTINATION GUIDES | 177
041 523 003) Rows of
bottles line the walls
of this old-fashioned
canalside bar. Join the
local residents from all
walks of life who come
here for an ombra
(Venetian dialect for
“glass”) of wine or two.
LIVE MUSIC Cantina
Vecia Carbonera
(2329 Rio Tera
Maddalena, Cannaregio,
tel: 041 710 376) Come
to this traditional wine
bar-come-restaurant on
a Thursday or Sunday
to enjoy live jazz while
digging into tasty local
dishes. Not hungry?
Savour a bottle of wine
with the music.
LATE & LIVELY
Orange (3054 Campo
Santa Margherita,
Dorsoduro, tel: 041
523 4740) Join the
young Venetians who
fl ock to Campo Santa
Margherita for their
spritz-fi x each evening.
Orange, aptly named
for the colour of the cult
aperitif, is one of the
liveliest and is perfect
for people-watching
into the early hours.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Ring the bell
to visit Angelo Dalla
Venezia’s sawduststrewn
workshop. Don’t
worry about disturbing
him – he’s more than
happy to stop for a
chat and to show off
his work. Buy one of his
wooden spinning tops
as a souvenir (2204
Calle Scaleter, San Polo,
tel: 041 721 659).
SEE Although nearly
four centuries have
passed since Venice
Wien wie nie.
recovered from
the plague, the city
continues to mark the
date. A picturesque
procession crosses a
specially constructed
boat-bridge over the
Grand Canal to the
church of Santa Maria
della Salute. On
21 November.
GO Don’t just admire
the view from St Mark’s;
hop on a vaporetto and
explore Giudecca and
San Giorgio Maggiore
islands opposite. Visit
the two lovely Palladiodesigned
churches (San
Giorgio Maggiore and
Chiesa del Redentore)
and take a break at
Harry’s Dolci (773
Fondamenta San
Biagio, Giudecca).
ESCAPE Take the
train to Padua, just
30 minutes from
Venice. See the famous
Sant’Antonio basilica
and the Scrovegni
Chapel with its Giotto
frescoes, but head to the
colourful daily produce
market in Piazza delle
Erbe to experience
the real Padua. Many
of the city’s best bars
and restaurants
are here, too.
NO WAY!
November and
December are the
months when acqua
alta – fl ooding caused
by high tides – is most
likely in Venice. Sirens
are sounded in advance
of the phenomenon
and St Mark’s Square,
one of the lowest points
of the city, is the fi rst
to be affected.
Sarah Lane
Von der Hofburg bis nach Schönbrunn, vom Naschmarkt bis
nach Grinzing – mit dem FreeCityTicket fahren Sie kostenfrei
zu den schönsten Orten der Stadt.
www.wien.intercityhotel.at

178 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Vienna
Austria
DIALLING CODE +43
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2007
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
The CAT train
goes to the centre.
Tickets: €9 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Gigerl
(3 Rauhensteingasse,
tel: 01 513 4431) Very
handily located near St
Stephen’s, Gigerl rustles
up whopping schnitzels
and salads amid
Viennese décor.
EXCLUSIVE
Zum Schwarzen
Kameel Restaurant (5
Bognergasse, tel: 01 533
8844) Something of a
Viennese Institution, “At
the Black Camel” seems
stuck in a very congenial
pre-1914 time warp, but
that’s the way the locals
like it. The adjoining wine
bar is a perfect place to
kick things off.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café
Prückel (24 Stubenring,
tel: 01 512 6115) This
legendary café, with its
ice-cool 1950s décor,
seems ideally suited to a
John Le Carré spy thriller.
Waiters in immaculate
black tie keep things
defi antly old school.
LATE & LIVELY Loop
(26–27 Lerchenfelder
Gurtel, tel: 01 402 4195)
Clubbers in search of the
grittier side of Vienna’s
nightlife might head for
the Gurtel, the sweeping
overland railway beneath
which many impresarios
have made a home. Loop
dishes up funk, hip hop,
house, reggae and more.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Bordering
the hip Naschmarkt,
Anna Stein offers a
quirky mix of trinkets,
with everything from
accessories to books
and CDs. There’s also
a café on hand (21
Kettenbrückengasse).
SEE Throw yourself
into the giddy sounds
of klezmer at this, the
seventh incarnation of
KlezMore, which sees
outfi ts from across
Europe and beyond
descend on Vienna.
Catch the sounds
buzzing through the city
from 6–21 November
(klezmore-vienna.at).
NO WAY!
The curious journey
made by an elephant
from Lisbon to Vienna in
1551 inspired one of this
year’s most acclaimed
novels. The Elephant’s
Journey, by the late
Nobel Prize-winning
author José Saramago.
Nick Hodge/
vienna-life.com
Zagreb
Croatia
DIALLING CODE +385
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
NEW FROM
2010
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
200HRK.
The airport bus
runs to the city
centre. Tickets: 30HRK
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Kapuciner (6 Kaptol,
tel: 01 481 0487) This is
popular with students.
Cathedral views, free
Wi-Fi and tasty pizzas
– try the spicy kulen
sausage topping.
EXCLUSIVE
Zinfandel’s Restaurant
(1 Mihanoviceva, tel: 01
456 6644) An elegant
dining option, Zinfandel’s
is fi ttingly housed in
Zagreb’s fi nest hotel. The
Esplanade used to be a
favourite of passengers
on the Orient Express
and today the service
and modern cuisine
attract a new generation
of diners.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Gradska
Kavana (9 Trg Bana
Josipa Jelacica) There
is no better place to
take in the action on the
city’s square. Savour
a cold beer or coffee.
LATE & LIVELY
Hemingway (1
Tuskanac, tel: 01 483
4958) Dress to impress
but you will probably
still be scorned at by
the chic staff. Cocktails
are expensive by local
standards but worth it.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Croats
claim to have invented
the tie, and at Croata
you can fi nd some sexy
numbers (13 Kaptol, tel:
01 481 4600).
GO Upper Town is the
most beautiful corner
of town and the most
historic. Admire St
Mark’s Church as well as
the views over the city.
NO WAY!
Zagreb-born Janica
Kostelic went on to lift
four skiing gold medals
in two Olympic Games.
Robin McKelvie/
robinmckelvie.com
SHERATON
ZAGREB
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
This fi rst-class hotel’s
deluxe rooms are
spacious, elegant
and feature stylish
furniture. Breakfast
included. From
€65, book at
holidays.easyJet.com.
Zürich
Switzerland
DIALLING CODE +41
CURRENCY CHF
FLY FROM
London (LGW,
LTN), Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1998
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs CHF60.
Trains make the
journey to the city
centre every 15 minutes.
Tickets: CHF6.20
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Adler’s
Swiss Chuchi (10
Rosengasse, tel: 044
266 9696) Traditional,
cosy Swiss chalet-style
restaurant serving local
specialities such as
raclette potatoes with
melted cheese and
pickled gherkins.
EXCLUSIVE
Baerengasse (25
Bahnhofstrasse, tel:
044 210 0808) This
stylish restaurant is
set inside a bank and is
partly owned by Dieter
Meier from Swiss pop
group Yello. The menu
refl ects his love for
Argentina and is famous
for its tasty, high-quality
grilled steaks and his
own brand of wine, Puro.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bellavista
(7 Ramistrasse, tel:
043 268 5300) Perfect
for an early aperitif or
an afternoon coffee,
Bellavista has a casual
but chic décor and is a
slice of real Italian style
in the city centre.
LATE & LIVELY
Helvetia Bar
(1 Stauffacherquai,
tel: 044 297 9999) A
charismatic bar that
serves a hip, friendly
local crowd. Especially
busy on Friday evenings
for post-work drinks.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Vestibule is
a hip, high-end women’s
fashion boutique
which has just opened
a new store at St
Petersgasse. It carries
Swiss labels, which
often include chic
new brands not on
sale anywhere else.
Saturday afternoon
here is fi lled with the
who’s who of Zürich
(13 Spiegelgasse,
vestibule.ch).
SEE Fashion Days
Zürich is a huge new
international fashion
event incorporating
the Swiss Textiles Award
together with shows
from leading national
and international
fashion designers
(3–6 November,
charlesvoegelefashiondays.com).
NO WAY!
St Peter’s Church
boasts Europe’s largest
church clock face, which
is 8.7m in diameter.
Celeste Neill-Duvoisin

5-star
Spa Escapes
Spa Perfect Day in Dubrovnik, including:
Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens
Na Moru 1, 20234 Orašac, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tel: +385 20 361 500, Fax +385 20 361 501
info.dubrovnik@radissonblu.com
radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik
from
49 EUR p.P.*

CUSTOMER | CARE
Our People
Are Committed
to Great
Customer
Service
We at easyJet want you to have a great
experience onboard your easyJet fl ight.
We receive lots of feedback from
our customers and we really appreciate
everything you tell us. Of course, we want
to hear from you if you haven’t had the best
easyJet experience, however we also love
reading all the great comments you send us
about our cabin crew and pilots.
We have created spirit.easyJet.com – a
"thank-you" form exclusively for you to let us
know if any of our cabin crew or pilots have
really shown their "orange spirit" and given
great customer service. And because we’re
dedicated to being the best, we’re recognising
those cabin crew and pilots who receive the
most positive feedback.
You’ll fi nd further details of how to get in
touch with us in the yellow box below.
How to Contact Us easyJet.custhelp.com
Our customer
experience team is
available to help you.
They are open 8am –
8pm Monday to
Friday and 9am –
5pm Saturday
and Sunday
(local times).*
0871 244 2366
0826 103 320
899 234 589
807 070070
01805 029 292
180 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
We Need Your Help!
Think any of our people have the
orange spirit? Then let us know!
We want to hear about any cabin
crew or pilots that have gone above
and beyond, so that we can tell them
what a great job they’re doing.
• Find out the name of the cabin
crew member or pilot – they’d be very
happy to tell you.
• Log on to spirit.easyJet.com and
vote for them, giving your fl ight
details, name, and email address.
It’s as simple as that!
Say “THANK YOU” and share the
orange spirit!
Wir brauchen
Ihre Hilfe!
Denken Sie, dass unsere Mitarbeiter den
‘orangen Spirit’ haben? Dann lassen Sie uns
das wissen!
Wir wuerden gern von Kabinenpersonal
und Piloten hoeren, die mehr tun als das
Noetigste, so dass wir ihnen sagen koennen,
was fuer einen tollen Job sie machen.
• Finden Sie den Namen des betreffenden
Kabinenpersonals oder Piloten heraus- den
werden sie Ihnen gern geben.
• Gehen Sie ins Internet auf die
Webseite spirit.easyJet.com und geben
Sie Ihrem Favoriten Ihre Stimme,
zusammen mit Ihrem Namen, Flugdaten
und e-mail Adresse.
Sagen Sie “VIELEN DANK” und teilen
Sie den ‘orangen Spirit’ mit uns!
0900 000 258
0900 265 8020
0703 203 025
0900 000206
Rest of the world
+44 870 6 000 000
* Please refer to
easyJet.com for call
charges. Calls may be
recorded to improve
your experience
when travelling with
or contacting us.
Nous avons
besoin de vous!
Vous pensez que certains parmi nous ont
« l’esprit orange »? Faites le savoir !
Nous souhaitons reconnaitre les membres
d’équipage ou pilotes qui ont répondu
au-delà de vos attentes, et ce, afi n de les
féliciter pour leur travail exemplaire.
• Repérez le nom du membre d’équipage ou
pilote – Ils seront ravis de vous le confi er
• Connectez vous sur spirit.easyJet.com et
votez pour eux, en précisant les détails du vol,
votre nom et adresse e-mail.
Dites «MERCI» et partagez
« l’esprit orange »!
Abbiamo Bisogno
del tuo aiuto!
Sei dell’idea che qualcuno dei nostri
equipaggi abbia l’ “ORANGE SPIRIT”,
quella marcia in piu’ che tanto vi
ha conquistato?
Se un assistente di volo o pilota ti ha
colpito in modo particolare ti preghiamo
di comunicarcelo: sara’ nostro piacere
informarli e premiarli.
• Puoi facilmente scoprire il nome
del personale di bordo, saranno molto
lieti di dirtelo.
• Puoi votare il tuo assistente di volo o pilota
preferito visitando il sito internet spirit.
easyJet.com e inserendo i dettagli del tuo
volo, il tuo nome, indirizzo email.
RINGRAZIALI e condividi con noi
l’“ORANGE SPIRIT”
Necesitamos
tu ayuda!
Crees que alguno de nuestra gente o equipo
tiene el Espiritu Naranja? Avisanos!
Queremos saber si alguno de nuestros
Cabin Crew o Pilotos han hecho algo mas
allá de lo esperado, para poder decirles el
fantástico trabajo que están haciendo.
• Averigua el nombre de el auxiliar de
vuelo o Piloto –seguro que no tendrán
problema en decírtelo.
• Haz Log-in en spirit.easyJet.com y vota
por ellos, dándonos los detalles de tu vuelo,
nombre y dirección de email.
Di “gracias” y comparte el Espíritu Naranja!!
Follow us on Twitter
@easyJetCare
We’re on Twitter – follow
us to receive information
on how to make your
travel experience better.

Your Conduct Onboard
Please consider your fellow
passengers while onboard this
fl ight and in particular the
following information, which is
in place in the interest of your
safety and comfort.
★ Smoking
Smoking on any easyJet
fl ight is strictly forbidden.
★ Alcohol
As explained in our retail
brochure, alcoholic drinks are
available onboard. These are
served at the crew’s discretion to
passengers of legal drinking age.
Whilst onboard, you can consume
alcoholic drinks purchased at the
Boutique & Bistro only.
★ Safety Equipment
In accordance with UK and
international law, the captain is
in command of the aircraft and
every person onboard shall obey
his or her lawful commands. In
Quick Facts!
★ We have 542
routes, fl y to 123
airports and operate
in 29 countries!
★ easyJet employs
3,716 cabin crew
across the network,
with a further 346
Swiss cabin crew.*
★ We operate 197
aircraft including 189
Airbus and 8 Boeing
Seating capacity
Number of crew
Take off speed
Cruising speed
Range
fact, captains have the authority
to take any actions they deem
necessary to manage passengers
who are disruptive or cause
problems during fl ights.
Please be reminded not to
tamper with or remove any
safety equipment onboard this
aircraft, including the lifejackets.
Any unauthorised actions
may jeopardise the safety of
other passengers and lead to
prosecution. As explained in the
safety announcement, lifejackets
are provided only in the event of
passengers landing on water.
★ Sharps Boxes
Hypodermic
needles are
permitted onboard
for medical use and
should always be
Hypodermic
syringes
disposed of in a proper sharps
box. If you need to dispose of a
needle, please contact a member
of the cabin crew.
737s. Our fl eet is one
of the youngest in
the world with an
average aircraft age
of 3.5 years!
★ easyJet has been
unveiled as Business
Traveller Magazine’s
Best Low Cost
Airline in 2010 for the
tenth consecutive year,
and The Sunday Times
Travel Magazine’s
Boeing 737-700
149
2 pilots and 3 cabin crew
260 km/h
853 km/h
6,115km
Favourite Budget
Airline for 2009.
★ easyJet has won
the award for Best
Airline Website by
Travolution, the UK’s
Airbus A319
156
2 pilots and 4 cabin crew
240 km/h
805 km/h
4,830km
★ Use of Electronic Devices
Electronic devices, including
mobile phones, can not be used
while walking to/from the
aircraft and must be switched off
during take-off and landing.
However, electronic devices
that you can use during the
fl ight after take-off and before
landing include:
★ Bluetooth devices
excluding telephones.
★ Devices that have a "fl ight
mode" or "fl ight safe" setting,
provided the fl ight safe mode
setting is enabled before the
aircraft doors are closed.
★ Laptops including those with
built-in WLAN/WiFi provided
the WLAN/WiFi is turned off.
★ Electronic games, MP3, DVD
and CD players.
If in doubt, please keep devices
switched off for the duration
of the fl ight as they may interfere
with systems
leading online multimedia
travel industry
publication. The highly
prestigious awards
recognised easyJet.com
as "straightforward and
easy-to-use, this much
Airbus A320
174/180
2 pilots and 4 cabin crew
240 km/h
837 km/h
4,910km
PASSENGER | INFO
improved website
has managed to
integrate discreet
use of up-selling and
has integrated its
partners in a smart
way, all with some
cutting-edge user
experience tools."
*correct at
4 May 2010
Airbus A321
210
2 pilots and 5 cabin crew
250 km/h
933 km/h
5,630km
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 181

NOTICIAS | ESPANA
¡Os esperamos en
el próximo vuelo!
15 años se cumplen ya desde que
easyJet abrió su primera base
en Londres. ¡Ha sido un largo y
agradable camino!
Para muchos de los que
trabajamos para easyJet, la
apertura en 2007 de nuestra
base de Madrid fue una noticia
fantástica y la esperada
oportunidad de volver a casa
sin tener que renunciar a esta
pequeña familia que tenemos
creada en easyJet. En contra de
lo que la mayoría puedan pensar,
¡en Madrid somos casi todos
españoles!
Recientemente hemos incluido
Marruecos y Ámsterdam a
nuestros destinos desde Madrid,
y estamos encantados de poder
volar a estas ciudades y ver las
caras de todos aquellos que van
15 años… ¡y seguimos creciendo!
Con más de 500 rutas en toda la
red, easyJet llega a celebrar su 15º
cumpleaños con el objetivo de convertir
toda Europa al naranja. Para ello,
España es un país clave, motivo por
el cual se está apostando por nuevas
rutas, más frecuencias y fl exibilidad
de horarios. Entre los nuevos destinos,
Barcelona cuenta desde este mes
con vuelos a Lisboa y a Ámsterdam.
Además, volar a Francia, Milán o
Marruecos nunca fue tan fácil con la
gran variedad de frecuencias.
Queremos agradecer a nuestros
pasajeros el hecho de ser líderes en
ocupación en el aeropuerto de Madrid
y deseamos devolver la confi anza
depositada tanto por aquellos que
viajan por vacaciones como por
182 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
por primera vez y que regresan
encantados.
Marruecos es el destino
perfecto para unas vacaciones
exóticas a tan solo un par de horas
de Madrid…. Un país tan cercano
a nosotros pero tan lejano en el
tiempo. Decir Marruecos es decir
color, y millones de contrastes.
Nada merece más la pena de
Marruecos que su gente.
Ámsterdam, más conocida
como la Venecia del norte, es
una de las ciudades favoritas por
muchos de nosotros y a la cual nos
hemos escapado ya más de una
vez un fi n de semana, ya que sino
sólo la vemos desde el aire. Eso
sí, un consejo… ¡cuidado con las
bicicletas!
Carmen García, jefa de
tripulaciones de easyJet en Madrid
aquellos que deben viajar por negocios
asegurando que vamos a seguir
mejorando, ofreciendo nuevos destinos
y atendiéndolos en vuelo de la forma
más amable para hacer de su viaje un
trayecto placentero.
Cada vuelo
es diferente,
cada vuelo
se recuerda
Desde que easyJet inauguró sus
primeros vuelos como compañía de
bajo coste hace ahora quince años,
nadie podía imaginar que la
compañía iba a tener tal impacto
en la aviación comercial. El término
“Bajo coste” no se conocía en
aviación y nadie hubiese apostado
por semejante aventura. Sin
embargo, desde entonces, easyJet ha
impactado y lo sigue haciendo en el
patio de los grandes.
La compañía ha fundado su
estrategia operacional y comercial
basándose en lo que llamamos
los 5 pilares. El pilar numero uno y el
más importante para nosotros
pilotos y tripulaciones de cabina de
pasajeros (azafatas/os), es el de
la seguridad en vuelo. easyJet se
sostiene también gracias a vosotros,
nuestros pasajeros, sin olvidar a
nuestros inversores, nuestra gente
y gracias a nuestro mérito
profesional. Sin estos 5 pilares,
easyJet no hubiese conseguido sus
objetivos, ¡no existiría!
A la hora de sugerirles un destino,
les puedo asegurar que me sería difícil
aconsejarles. No sólo volamos para
llevarles a su destino de vacaciones
sino que también les llevamos a
su lugar de reuniones y negocios…
easyJet tiene un amplísimo abanico
de destinos para todos los gustos y
para todos los bolsillos.
Como piloto y especialmente como
Jefe de pilotos de easyJet en España,
he experimentado tanto que las
anécdotas en vuelo son incalculables
e innombrables. Me haría falta la
revista entera para contarles lo que
he vivido como piloto en easyJet.
Cada vuelo es diferente y cada vuelo
se recuerda como el primero. La
sensación de volar y hacer que vuelen
con nosotros es tan especial que nos
hace sentir los más afortunados.
Es un verdadero placer volar con
vosotros y ¡espero que podamos
celebrar otros quince años volando
juntos! ¡Feliz cumpleaños!
Capt. Stephan Dewevre,
Pilot Manager España

Da 15 anni coloriamo il cielo d’arancio.
Anche il tuo. Festeggiamo in italiano.
NOTIZIE | ITALIA
Di solito ai compleanni i regali si ricevono. A noi piace farli. E il regalo che ci piace di più è il vostro sorriso. Quando, arrivati in uno dei nostri 14
aeroporti in tutta Italia, riabbracciate il vostro amato o la vostra amata. Quando andate a trovare i vostri amici. Quando arrivate in una città che
non avete mai visto e siete all’inizio di una vacanza. O quando tornate a casa dopo una lunga giornata di lavoro. In questi 15 anni, di sorrisi ne
abbiamo visti più di 10 milioni. E non abbiamo intenzione di fermarci. Benvenuti a bordo. Su qualunque volo siate e ovunque stiate andando,
speriamo che la nostra compagnia vi renda più felici.
UN SORRISO ANNULLA OGNI
DISTANZA. E CON EASYJET L’ITALIA
È PIÙ VICINA.
VOLA IN BUSINESS
Lo diciamo sempre: se voli per affari il primo
affare siamo noi. E se in questo momento stai
andando verso un tuo meeting, lo sai anche tu.
Forse sei proprio suuno dei 5 voli al giorno tra
Milano Malpensa e Roma Fiumicino. Oppure
uno dei 3 Malpensa-Palermo, Malpensa-
Catania e Fiumicino-Palermo. O ancora uno
dei due voli al giorno Venezia-Napoli e Venezia-
Fiumicino. Chissà.
La priorità per noi è che tu possa fare un
buon volo e arrivare senza stress alla tua
riunione. Per questo cerchiamo di renderti
questo viaggio il più piacevole ed easy possibile.
Ad esempio non dandoti limiti di peso al
bagaglio a mano: potrai così portare sull’aereo
tutto il materiale di cui hai bisogno per lavorare.
E, per non perdere tempo, potrai salire a
bordo senza fare code: ti basterà scegliere lo
speedy boarding. A proposito di tempo, se la
tua riunione dovesse fi nire prima del previsto
e tu arrivassi in aeroporto in anticipo, potrai
salire sul primo volo in partenza per la tua
destinazione, senza tasse aggiuntive.
Easy, vero?
VOLA IN VACANZA
Ci piace renderti la vita più easy quando stai
lavorando. Ci piace ancora di più aiutarti
a realizzare le vacanze dei tuoi sogni. E se
quest’anno hai deciso di passarle in Italia, non ti
resterà che scegliere dove ti piacerebbe andare.
Potresti iniziare con un’alba alla Playa di Catania,
sul Mediterraneo più bello. La tua passeggiata
sulla spiaggia potrebbe proseguire fi no al
verde del Parco dell’Etna. Per l’escursione sul
Vesuvio dovrai attendere solo un poco, giusto
il tempo di arrivare a Napoli. E se la montagna
ti avrà stancato, sulla punta di Capo Posillipo ti
aspetta un meraviglioso panorama. Forse ora
non è il momento migliore per fare un bagno,
ma puoi comunque farti un Girosull’acqua. Che
ne dici di una gondola? Del resto ci sono ben
due voli al giorno tra Napoli e Venezia. La città
più romantica del mondo non è così fredda
a novembre, soprattutto se ti farai scaldare
dalla tua dolce metà. E’ proprio un amore, non
si merita un regalo? In Via Montenapoleone
troverai sicuramente il gioiello giusto, basta
cercare il volo per Milano. Se preferisci qualcosa
di più simbolico, e soprattutto economico, fai
una dichiarazione mettendo la mano nella
Bocca della Verità; sarà low cost anche il nostro
aereo per Roma. Tutto questo girare ti ha messo
fame? Componi il tuo menu ideale: bucatini
all’amatriciana nella capitale, cotoletta alla
milanese una volta atterrato a Malpensa e poi
via verso Napoli per sfogliatelle e babà. Per il
vino, chiedere alle Cantine del Cugno Mezzano
di Palermo: lì ne hanno 350 tipi. Il digestivo si
potrebbe prendere all’Antico Caffè, dal 1855 il
ritrovo preferito degli artisti a Cagliari.
Purtroppo non solo la cena è arrivata alla
conclusione, ma anche la giornata. Potresti
festeggiarla deliziando le orecchie con l’opera
del Teatro Massimo di Palermo, ballando
all’Alcatraz a Milano o ovunque desideri. Per
aiutarti a decidere, chiediti dove vorresti
svegliarti domattina. Non possiamo portarti la
colazione a letto, ma quasi: ti portiamo dove
sogni di fare colazione.
In Italia volare
è più easy.
Pronti a partire?
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 183

DERNIÈRES INFOS/NEUIGKEITEN | SUISSE/SCHWEIZ
Hollands Städte -
Ein Erlebnis in Oranje
Giebelhäuser aus dem Goldenen Zeitalter sind
ebenso selbstverständlich wie futuristische
Wolkenkratzer. Rembrandt und Vermeer in den
Museen gleichermaßen präsent wie Mondrian
und kühnes Dutch Design. Und obwohl neue
holländische Küche immer häufi ger auf der
Speisenkarte steht, wird in traditionellen
Restaurants mit unverändertem Genuss auch
die klassische Volksspeise „stamppot“ verzehrt.
Kurzum: Tradition und Zukunftsglaube liegen
in den Niederlanden so nahe wie sonst kaum
irgendwo beieinander.
BESONDERE ATMOSPHÄRE
Weil die Städte unseres Nachbarlandes die
Tendenz haben, sich ständig neu zu erfi nden,
bleiben Überraschungen bei keinem Besuch aus.
Gleichzeitig aber ist Verlass auf unvergängliche
Werte. Gemütlichkeit. Lebensfreude und
Weltoffenheit. Ein Drink in einer urigen Kneipe,
dem „bruin café“. Oder die zeitlose Schönheit
einer Grachten-Rundfahrt.
JEDE STADT MIT EIGENEM
CHARAKTER
Trotz aller Gemeinsamkeiten pfl egen
2 vols par jour vers Rome,
on s'y adonne
Inédit ! Rome au départ de Genève et à partir
de 26,95 CHF.- l’aller simple, c’est maintenant
jusqu’à 2 fois par jour avec easyJet.
L’occasion est trop tentante d’aller fouler le
sol de celle que l’on appelle la « cité éternelle »,
riche d’une histoire foisonnante. Prévoyez de
ne pas dormir beaucoup tant la ville livre de
184 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Den Haag, Utrecht,
Maastricht, Nimwegen, Arnheim und Eindhoven
ihren spezifi schen Charakter, den es zu
entdecken lohnt. Das ist umso einfacher, als
die niederländischen Städte dicht beieinander
liegen. So lässt sich beispielsweise ein Besuch des
modernen Rotterdams und des königlichen Den
Haags gut miteinander kombinieren.
TIPPS UND INFORMATIONEN
Um Besuchern die Besonderheiten holländischer
Städte zu präsentieren, gibt das Niederländische
Büro für Tourismus & Convention (NBTC) einen
Pocket-Städtereiseführer heraus. Das handliche
Heft enthält viele praktische und inspirierende
Informationen. So bietet es beispielsweise
Unterkunft- und Restauranttipps sowie
Hinweise zu interessanten Attraktionen,
Veranstaltungen und Vergünstigungen, wie etwa
mithilfe der I amsterdam Card. Die Broschüre
kann kostenlos angefordert werden per Mail
über info@niederlande.de.
Auf der Website www.niederlande.de/stadt
gibt es zudem umfangreiche Informationen zu
den niederländischen Städten und einen aktuellen
Veranstaltungs- und Ausstellungskalender.
merveilles toutes plus étonnantes les
unes que les autres: sites antiques,
monuments séculaires, églises baroques,
places animées, marchés de quartier,
boutiques branchées… Sans oublier la
sympathie naturelle des Romains qui vous
accueilleront à bras ouverts.
Berlin 2 fois
par jour, c’est
tout nouveau
et tout chaud!
C’est nouveau, c’est trop beau ! Sur la ville
branchée de Berlin, c’est maintenant jusqu’à
2 vols par jour que vous propose easyJet,
avec un aller simple à partir de 26,95.- CHF.
Une augmentation de fréquence vous
permettant de découvrir une ville aux mille
facettes. Vie nocturne trépidante, multitude
de monuments, de musées et d’expositions,
hôtels, bars et restos design, oasis de
verdure et lacs : tout un programme à ne pas
manquer. Berlin, c’est in !
Nouveau!
Madrid, Plutôt
2 fois qu’une!
Avec deux vols par jour au départ de Genève
et l’aller simple à partir de 26,95.- CHF
seulement, la capitale de l’Espagne vous
invite à venir la visiter pour un petit week-end
prolongé, à deux, en famille ou entre amis.
Monuments imposants, expos, concerts et
musées (Ah le Prado), bars typiques et rues
animées forment un incroyable « melting pot »
aussi vibrant qu’un battement de cœur.
Madrid jusqu’à 2 fois par jour, c’est nouveau
et ça ne se manque pas !

Winter Parade, Coffee-Shops
und Rot-Licht-Viertel
Malerisch liegen die schmalen Grachtenhäuser
an Amsterdams alten Kanälen, in welchen die
Hausboote gemächlich vor sich hindümpeln.
Idyllische Cafés laden zum Entspannen ein
und die Modeszene Amsterdams setzt neuste
Trends. Holz-Clogs sind DIE Mitbringsel
aus der holländischen Hafenstadt. In den
Niederlanden beginnt die Weihnachtszeit
bereits am 14. November mit der Ankunft des
Dampfbootes von Sinterklaas aus dem fernen
Spanien, welcher anschließend bis zum 5.
Dezember durchs Land reist. Auch Amsterdam
präsentiert sich mit stimmungsvollen
Weihnachtsmärkten, festlicher Beleuchtung
Last-Minute-Tweets
Verpassen Sie mit unserem easyJet
Deutschland Twitter-Service keines unserer
Top-Angebote und erfahren Sie von unseren
Rabatt-Aktionen, neuen Strecken und Last-
Minute-Flügen immer als einer der Ersten!
Folgen Sie uns für aktuellste Informationen
einfach unter twitter.com/easyJet_de!
Reisetipps per Email
Mit unserem eNewsletter informieren wir
Sie regelmäßig über unsere neuen
Flugstrecken, Schnäppchen- und Last-Minute-
Aktionen, unseren Service und preiswerte
Angebote rundum Flüge, Mietwagen,
und der spektakulären Parade von Sinterklaas
am 15. November vom Fluss Amstel zum
Schifffahrtsmuseum. Doch Amsterdam
bekannt für seine coolen Clubs, Coffee-Shops
und eines der berühmtesten Rot-Licht-Viertel
hat selbstverständlich auch im Winter ein
buntes Nachtleben zu bieten. Vom 15. bis 26.
Dezember 2010 sorgt die „Winter Parade“
im ehemaligen Gasometer der
Westergasfabriek mit Konzerten, Theater,
Kunstperformance, Partys und gutem Essen
für Atmosphäre. Starten Sie mit uns bis zu
zweimal täglich von Berlin nach Amsterdam
ab günstigen 18,99 €*!
Neu: easyJet App
Berlin, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Dortmund, Köln,
Dresden oder München? Jetzt können Sie sich ganz
einfach mobil mit Ihrem iPhone und dem neuen
easyJet Deutschland App über die Ankunfts- und
Abfl ugszeiten Ihrer easyJet-Flüge von und zu allen
sieben deutschen Abfl ughäfen informieren. Einfach
im App-Store downloaden und los geht’s!
Reiseschutz und Unterkünfte. Dazu gibt es
interessante Reise- und Hoteltipps zu
unseren Flugzielen. Registrieren Sie sich für
Ihren persönlichen Newsletter einfach unter
eOffers auf easyJet.com!
Kleine Meerjungfrau und Weihnachtsmarkt
Im Dezember kehrt die kleine Meerjungfrau zurück! Von
Mai bis Oktober war das Wahrzeichen Kopenhagens
im dänischen Expo-Pavillon in Shanghai zu bewundern
– jetzt ist Sie bald wieder zum Greifen nah! Fliegen Sie
mit uns in nur rund einer Stunde von Berlin-Schönefeld
in die dänische Hauptstadt Kopenhagen bereits ab
18,99 €*! Das Kopenhagener Tivoli, einer der ältesten
und berühmtesten Vergnügungsparks der Welt,
mitten in der Innenstadt gelegen, verwandelt
sich vom 12. November bis zum 30. Dezember
2010 mit nostalgischen Fahrgeschäften und seinem
berühmten Weihnachtsmarkt in ein Winterwunderland
im weihnachtlichen Lichterglanz. Erholung bieten die
Restaurants bei weihnachtlichen Jule-Menüs, Gløgg
* One-Way, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge.
NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCHLAND
Shopping-Tipp:
Manchester
Die ehemalige Industriestadt in Englands
Nordwesten gilt als eine der angesagtesten
Städte Großbritanniens. Coole Bars, Restaurants
und Clubs mit Live-Acts, hochkarätige Museen,
herausragende Architektur und ausgefallene
Mode fi ndet man in der Metropole, die in den
letzten Jahrzehnten einen beeindruckenden
Wandel vollzogen hat. Im Northern Quarter trifft
sich die Szene, dementsprechend gibt es hier
Vintage-Mode, Retro-Möbel und im Affl eck’s,
dem „alternativem“ Einkaufszentrum, funky
Accessoires und allerlei Skurriles. Individuelles
Kunsthandwerk hat im „Manchester Craft and
Design Centre“ im ehemaligen, viktorianischen
Fisch- und Gefl ügelmarkt seinen Platz.
Das Luxussegment in Sachen Mode ist
mit Namen wie Tommy Hilfi ger, Vivienne
Westwood und Armani in der Kingstreet und
den Luxuskaufhäusern Harvey Nichols and
Selfridges zu Hause. Im Manchester Arndale,
einem gigantischen Einkaufszentrum in
der Stadtmitte, fi nden sich rund 240 Läden
darunter H&M, G-Star, All Saints, TopShop und
Next. Sollten Sie vom Einkaufsbummel genug
haben, wie wäre es mit einem Besuch der
legendären Grabkammern des ägyptischen
Pharaos Tutanchamuns? Noch bis zum 27.
Februar 2011 ist die erfolgreiche Ausstellung
„Tutanchamun – Sein Grab und die Schätze“
zu Gast in Manchester. Starten Sie mit uns von
München und neu ab dem 26. November 2010
von Hamburg nach Manchester und buchen Sie
Ihre Flüge zu unseren günstigsten Preisen ab
26,99 €* frühzeitig unter easyJet.com!
und dem dunklen Weihnachtsbier Julebryg. Oder wie
wäre es mit einer Runde Schlittschuhlaufen auf den
zahlreichen Eisbahnen der Stadt? In der Kopenhagener
Altstadt und in der Fußgängerzone Strøget haben
viele Geschäfte vor Weihnachten auch sonntags
geöffnet und auf dem Rathausplatz erstrahlt der
größte Weihnachtsbaum Dänemarks.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 185

DERNIERES INFOS | FRANCE
Pour le 15ème anniversaire
d’easyJet, nous vous
avons préparé de nombreuses
nouvelles destinations!
C’est Faro, c’est
effarant …de charme!
Toute l’année au départ de Paris
Réservez dès que possible pour le
début du printemps. Découvrez à
proximité immédiate de cette ville
située à l’extrémité sud du Portugal
le parc naturel de la Ria Formosa
qui rappelle la Camargue. C’est
une zone unique, à la jonction des
infl uences océaniques et du climat
méditerranéen. Vous découvrirez des
dunes incroyables et des colonies
d’oiseaux que vous ne verrez nulle
part ailleurs. Capitale de l’Algarve et
plus grande ville de la région, Faro
offre aux visiteurs un bel équilibre
entre tradition et modernité avec, à
proximité, des équipements dignes
des plus belles cités balnéaires.
Si vous voulez prolonger votre
week-end, partez plutôt vers l’Est.
Olhao est un grand port de pêche
Ne nous parlez plus des Beatles!
Nouveau Liverpool au départ de Lyon
Et pourtant on les aime toujours autant.
Mais à force de parler de Liverpool à travers
les seuls Beatles, les « reds » (la célèbre
équipe de football) et les rives de la Mersey,
on en viendrait à oublier que Liverpool
est une ville qui a 800 ans d’histoire
derrière elle et qui était capitale de la
culture européenne en 2008. Elle justifi e
pleinement un week-end de découverte.
186 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
bruyant et passionnant. Vous serez
surpris par l’architecture particulière
de cette ville authentique, imprégnée
d’infl uence ottomane. Laissez-vous
happer par le dédale des rues,
séduire par la blancheur des maisons.
Ne manquez pas le marché du
samedi matin à l’issue duquel vous
pourrez prendre un bateau pour les
iles d’Armona, de Culatra et de Farol.
Prolongez si possible votre séjour
en passant quelques heures
à Tavira. Vous y sentirez le souffl e des
grandes expéditions des découvreurs
portugais et apprécierez les
remparts, vestiges d’une période faste
du Portugal.
Désormais, toute l’année au départ
de Paris avec easyJet, à partir de 41€
aller simple, taxes incluses.
A noter, rares sont les villes européennes
qui se dotent d’un site internet en version
française, http://fr.visitliverpool.com/
Allez-y. Laissez-vous emporter par le
dynamisme d’une cité qui a une
vraie politique touristique. Liverpool sait
recevoir ses visiteurs et dépasser les
poncifs habituels.
A partir de 25€, aller simple, taxes incluses.
Préparezvous
pour le
printemps
de Prague.
Nouveau au
départ de Lyon
Une des villes les plus romantiques
d’Europe est désormais aussi
une des plus dynamiques et si
vous l’avez découverte pour ses
trésors historiques et son charme
incomparable, vous pouvez y retourner
pour sa vie nocturne, son activité
artistique et ses bonnes surprises qui
en font désormais une destination
week-end très « fashion ». Allez
au Roxy dans la vieille ville, dans
un immeuble « cubiste » avec son
ensemble de salles où vous ferez la
fête. Très techno ! Au Mecca Club,
les noctambules de tous pays ne
seront pas dépaysés et pourront
même croiser lors d’une session
exceptionnelle les DJ’s stars de
tous pays. Aux bonnes périodes, les
défi lés de mode exploitent au mieux
ce lieu à l’architecture inspirée : le
mecca club est une ancienne factory
totalement transfi gurée avec un
décor noir et blanc design. On ne
peut tout de même pas seulement
faire la fête, il faut manger aussi !
Restons sur une note de modernité,
loin des plats traditionnels décrits
par les guides: rendez-vous au
restaurant design Mlyny ( par le
tram 22 , arrêt Hellichova). A la belle
saison, vous verrez bateaux, cygnes et
canards. Dans votre assiette, les plats
concoctés par l’un des meilleurs chefs
européens. Réinvestissez donc pour
votre plaisir les économies réalisées
avec notre compagnie.
A partir de 28€ aller simple, taxes
incluses en réservant bien à l’avance.

Discover the Magic of Germany’s
Best Christmas Markets
Visiting a traditional German Christmas
market is one of the best ways to get into the
festive spirit and the perfect opportunity to
hunt out unique gifts for those hard to buy for
friends and relatives.
We have compiled the defi nitive guide to
Germany’s best Christmas markets where
you can enjoy the warm, festive atmosphere
amid traditional surroundings and truly
celebrate Christmas in style.
BERLIN’S MITTE MARKET
Berlin’s Mitte district plays host to one of the
most spectacular markets on the German
Yuletide calendar, and is often described as the
capital of the traditional Christmas markets.
More than 150 handicraft stalls fi ll the
streets offering an array of local crafts and toys
as well as mouth-watering German treats such
as baked cinnamon stars, Glühwein (mulled
wine) and delicious roasted almonds.
Let the kids hop aboard the traditional
German train, which winds its way through
the fairytale forest beneath the sparkling
Christmas tree. Adrenaline junkies can also get
their fi x as the market offers several high speed
rides and the famous 40m high ferris wheel.
The market runs every day throughout
December and there is no need to be a
Christmas scrooge as, unlike other German
markets, the Mitte market has no entrance fee!
easyJet fl ies to Berlin from Bristol, Glasgow,
Liverpool, Gatwick & Luton. Prices this winter
start from £25.99*
MUNICH’S CHRISTKINDLMARKT
Munich’s Christmas market is one of the oldest
in Germany with roots going back to the 14th
century. The market is held in the heart of
Munich’s Old Town and offers shoppers 160
traditionally decorated stalls selling wood
carvings, bee's wax candles and chimney
sweeps made of plums and almonds.
The Town Hall hosts a ‘Heavenly Workshop’
for children aged between six and 12 where
they can bake Christmas cookies and dress-up
as beautiful angels with sparkling gowns and
Gossamer wings.
Visitors can also watch the free Christmas
concert every day at 5.30pm on the balcony of
this majestic building.
easyJet fl ies to Munich from Edinburgh,
Gatwick, Stansted and Manchester. Prices
this winter start from £29.99*
HAMBURG’S CHRISTMAS
MARKET CIRCUS
Hamburg’s busiest Christmas market is
located in Town Hall Square, in front of the
‘Rathaus’ (Town Hall). Hosted by Roncali’s
Circus, mulled wine is dispensed by a variety of
circus acts amongst the numerous stalls.
Festivities include a weekly Christmas
parade and a thrice nightly fl yby of Santa Claus
in his sleigh.
Anchored at the Jungfernstieg promenade
is a fairytale ship that will capture the
imagination of young and old alike – taking
the whole family on a magical festive journey.
Amongst the various craftsmen offering
their goods are; wood carvers, silversmiths,
bakers and potters. With its impressive array
of stalls and activities, Hamburg’s Christmas
market is an experience you’ll never forget.
easyJet fl ies to Hamburg from Gatwick,
Luton and Manchester. Prices this winter start
from £27.99*
COLOGNE’S CHRISTMAS SEVEN
The cathedral city of Cologne hosts seven
Christmas Markets, attracting over two million
NEWS | UK
visitors each year.
Outside the Cathedral is the main market
where the largest Christmas tree in Rhineland
towers over 160 beautifully designed wooden
pavilions from which many a ‘sweet treat’ can
be enjoyed.
The young particularly enjoy the Alter Markt
with a nostalgic children’s roundabout, puppet
theatre, Santa’s grotto and many toy stands.
Traditionalists may prefer a visit to the
oldest of all Cologne’s Christmas Markets,
Neumarkt. The stalls are bedecked with
decorative plates celebrating the traditions of
the markets throughout the years.
easyJet fl ies to Cologne from Edinburgh and
Gatwick. Prices this winter start from £25.99*
DORTMUND’S MEGA MARKET
Reputedly boasting the largest Christmas
market in the world, Dortmund is notorious
for its extravagance. The central Christmas
tree is 45 metres tall, made up of 1,700
individual fi r trees and adorned with more than
13,000 lights.
Alongside the usual array of wood carvings,
Christmas decorations and mulled wine, there
is a festive show performed by the Alter Markt
Theatre Company every day and a puppet or
magic show to keep the children happy.
The market is made up of over 300
stalls, which offer a wide range of traditional
Christmas goodies and mouth watering
traditional German dishes such as Westphalian
grilled ham and Bratwurst.
easyJet fi les to Dortmund from Luton. Prices
this winter start from £24.99*
*All Prices are single inc. taxes and correct
as at 5 October 2010. Available to book
now for travel between 31 October 2010 and
26 March 2011.
15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE | TRAVELLER | 187

ECO | CREDENTIALS
easyJet emits 22% less CO 2 per
passenger km than a traditional airline*
If you care about the
environment, you’re on
the right plane
Flying produces a
fraction of global CO 2
According to the Stern
Review on the economics of
Climate change
Less CO 2 is produced per
passenger kilometre than
the average car**
188 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
Did you know...
You’re paying tax four
times the cost of your
carbon footprint when you
fl y from the UK?
Did you know...
You’re taxed over fi ve times more of
the CO 2 that your fl ight emits when
you fl y short haul from London to
Malaga than a long haul fl ight from
London to Melbourne?
Offset the carbon
of your next fl ight at
easyJet.com
London >
Malaga
132kg CO 2
Tax is £10
Over Taxed
London >
Miami
1,000kg CO 2
Tax is £40
Under Taxed
London >
Melbourne
2,780kg CO 2
Tax is £40
Under Taxed
*Based on the same aircraft type fl ying the same route. **164g of CO 2 for every kilometre (car with single occupancy) and 95.7g of CO 2 for every passenger kilometre (fl ight)

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onboard today
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Speedy Boarding at the e gate
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and use of our
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on board today.
Ask Cabin Crew for a copy of the policy document
5
Days
COVER LEVELS
Medical Emergency: £2m
Baggage: £1,000
Loss of Passport: £150
Personal Accident: £5,000
Personal Liability:
£1m
Adult Single Trip in Europe
£15.00
Includes Insurance Premium Tax
14
Days
easyJet Airline Company Limited act in the sale of in-flight products as a
disclosed agent for a third party supplier who acts as a principal.
For further details of the principal please refer to www.easyJet.com.
*on line prices as at 18.09.2010
Adult tSingleTrip Single Trip in Europe
£20.00
Includes Insurance Premium Tax
• Covers you for Medical Emergency, Baggage, Personal Accident,
Personal Liability and Passport Loss.
• Available to UK residents on UK outbound flights
only with no pre-existing medical conditions.
• Terms and conditions apply.
Please ask your cabin crew for a copy of the policy document.
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mi mited
te ted te ted t d is an Appointed Representative of Mondial Assistance (UK) Limited of Mondial House, 102 George street, Croydon CR9
1AJ, which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority (FSA). easyJet’s FSA registration number is 481114 and Mondial Assistance’s
FSA registration number is 311909. FSA authorisation can be checked on the FSA register at www.fsa.gov.uk/register. easyJet arranges travel insurance
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and regulated by the Financial Services Authority for the conduct of UK business. It is administered in the UK by Mondial Assistance (UK) Limited.

LAST WORD | FACTFINDER
WE ARE
15
No Way!
The best bit about
birthdays is the
surprises! If you’ve
just read this issue
you’ll probably feel
like you’ve got a
decent idea of who
we are, but we’ve
still got a few tricks
up our sleeves…
Our fi rst
international
route was
London Luton
to Amsterdam.
But did
you know
Amsterdam’s
Schiphol
Airport is
around 4m
below sea
level? Deep
breath, now.
190 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
LAST YEAR WE SOLD
1,919,765 BACON
BAGUETTES ONBOARD.
IF YOU PUT THEM
ALL END TO END,
THEY’D STRETCH
PRACTICALLY FROM
VENICE TO VIENNA.
We can house three
aircraft inside our
head offi ce at Luton
Airport – there’s
even a nice view of
the engines from our
meeting rooms.
OUR FIRST BASE OUTSIDE
LONDON WAS LIVERPOOL,
BUT DID YOU KNOW THAT
THE CITY IS HOME TO THE
BIGGEST BRICK BUILDING
IN THE WORLD? TWENTY-
SEVEN MILLION BRICKS AND
30,000 PANES OF GLASS
WERE USED TO CONSTRUCT
LIVERPOOL'S STANLEY DOCK
TOBACCO WAREHOUSE,
COMPLETED IN 1901.
Feeling thirsty? We served
6,365,423 cups of hot
chocolate, tea and coffee
last year – that’s more
than the number of people
who live in Denmark.
WHEN WE FIRST
LAUNCHED THE
IN-FLIGHT MAGAZINE,
IT WAS CALLED
EASY COME, EASY
GO. THE NAME WENT.
WE SELL ENOUGH
TRAVEL TICKETS
ONBOARD IN A
YEAR TO FILL
11,692 NATIONAL
EXPRESS BUSES.
More than
15 million
people a
month visit
easyJet.com.
That’s more
than the
combined
populations of
London, Paris
and Berlin.
IN SEPTEMBER THIS
YEAR, OUR PLANES
FLEW A TOTAL OF
39,653,883KM –
THAT’S ENOUGH TO
FLY TO THE MOON
AND BACK 50 TIMES.
We sell 760,000 litres of bottled
water a year. That’s enough
for the World Cup-winning
Spanish football team, their
manager Vicente del Bosque
and goalkeeper/captain Iker
Casillas’s TV reporter girlfriend
Sara Carbonero to have a
shower every day for two years.

15 years of easyJet:
congratulations from Zürich!
Zürich – a city you must see. For 15 years, easyJet has enabled more and more guests to discover Zürich. A city of
boundless potential. Dance the night away in clubs. Endless parties and trend setting in the Zürich West quarter.
Concerts, shows and events. World-class brands. Shopping without limits. Zürich labels: creative and unique fashions
and designs. Lakeside baths transform into lakeside bars at night. Get to know each other better with the lake breeze
blowing in your face. Tired? Dive into the lake and re-energize. Zürich refreshes.
You want more. Head to Zürich.
Zürich Tourism
Tourist Service
At the Main Railway Station
P.O. Box, CH-8021 Zürich
Tel. +41 44 215 40 00
Fax +41 44 215 40 44
information@zuerich.com
www.zuerich.com