april-2010

ecreate the tidal
aspects of the sea,”
says Frédéric Garcia
of Tarbouriech
Oysters, a family
fi rm that has been
farming oysters
since the 1960s.
“We created a
solar-powered
mechanism by
which the oyster
frames could be
lifted from the water
and held in the sun.
This replicates the
natural tidal nature
of the sea, where
oysters are forced
out of the water
at low tide. Such
interaction with the
air and sun makes
the product better
and causes the
shells to generate
their special colour.”
THE TARBOURIECH
operation lies in the
Bassin de Thau,
a tideless lagoon
near Bouzigues.
By artifi cially
recreating tides,
Frédéric claims
oysters grown on
his frames and
lifted repeatedly
from the water have
to “struggle” to
survive. “This forces
them to produce
higher levels of
glycogen, a kind of
sugar, making them
grow a more dense
muscle structure,
which gives a better
taste and texture.”
Tarbouriech also
farms oysters in the
traditional way, with
the Pink Diamonds
FOOD FOR
THOUGHT
Casanova, the
famous 18thcentury
lover,
was said to eat
50 oysters for
breakfast every day.
accounting for
around 20% of
production. Interest
is growing thanks
to the work of
Sud de France, a
consortium set
up to promote
regional delicacies.
Renowned French
chef Alain Ducasse
has heaped praise
on Pink Diamonds
and they are also
in demand in select
restaurants across
the Continent.
“The Sud
de France pink
oysters are quite
exceptional, an
authentic product
of amazing quality,”
says local chef
Pierre-Olivier
Prouhèze. “They’re
larger than other
oysters raised in
this part of France
and have a subtle,
nutty taste.”
Locals tend to
eat them around
New Year, partnered
with local Limoux
sparkling wine.
Otherwise, they are
popular through
spring and summer
when various
festivals in the
region promote
local seafood.
According to
experts, the best
way of eating
oysters is raw and
they should be
chewed rather
than swallowed
whole. “I prefer to
keep things simple,
otherwise you
spoil the delicate
fl avours,” says
Pierre-Olivier.
“I present Pink
Diamond oysters
with just a squeeze
of lemon juice,
and maybe some
slices of brown
bread and salted
Normandy butter.”
Laura Latham
WHERE TO
FIND SUD
DE FRANCE
PINK DIAMOND
OYSTERS
PROUHEZE
SAVEURS
MONTPELLIER
Star chef Pierre-
Olivier Prouhèze
celebrates the best
of the Languedoc’s
produce and
seafood in his chic
bistro. 728 Avenue
de la Pompignane,
tel: +33 (0)4 6779
4334
QUINZI &
GABRIELI
ROME
Offering “a taste
of the sea in the
heart of Rome”, this
stylish restaurant
serves up fresh
fi sh and seafood
alongside quality
Mediterranean fare.
5 Via delle Coppelle,
tel: +39 (0)6 687
9389
DA VITTORIO
MILAN
This Relais &
Chateau restaurant
and hotel is located
in a beautiful villa
near Bergamo
and specialises in
Lombardy cuisine
and seafood. 17
Via Cantalupa,
Brusaporto, tel:
+39 (0)35 681 024
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