Original Web Bulletin Board System - Tony's Train Exchange

Original Web Bulletin Board System
Tony’s Train Exchange
March 3, 2008
Tony’s Train Exchange
http://TonysTrains.com
Pinewood Plaza
57 River Rd, Suite 1023
Essex Jct VT 05452
Voice: 800-978-3472 (USA and Canada)
Voice: +1-802-878-5005 (Worldwide)
Fax: +1-802-878-5550

Contents
Re-motoring Athearn RTR SD40 ..................................................8
Decoder for Proto2000 E8/9 loco ..............................................8
NCE .........................................................................................................8
Proto2000 0-6-0 tender .................................................................8
Proto 2000 GP-9 Phase III Pilot ..................................................8
UR91 ......................................................................................................8
Decoder to control turntable ........................................................8
Sound activation ................................................................................8
ATH SD45-2 decoder installation ................................................8
PS4 Red Light Stays On ..................................................................8
sound only ...........................................................................................8
Older Aristocraft FA1/FB1 Sound? ..............................................9
Sound for Caterpillar Diesel Engine for Loco ........................9
Mantua Locomotives ........................................................................9
Digitrax problems? ............................................................................9
mrc #0001634 ...................................................................................9
BD-20 compatability ........................................................................9
DCC Turnout Control .......................................................................9
Digitrax sound decoders .................................................................9
Peco turnouts code 83 ...................................................................9
PS Rev ? ............................................................................................. 10
Prodigy Advance & Routes .......................................................... 10
Atlas O GP60M ................................................................................ 10
aristocraft mikado .......................................................................... 10
Bachmann L-1 Mountain............................................................. 10
Tortoise and a Hare? ..................................................................... 10
Headlights ......................................................................................... 10
Prodigy Adavance Question ........................................................ 10
Prodigy Advance .............................................................................. 11
tsunami .............................................................................................. 11
Track help .......................................................................................... 11
kato AC4400 sound? .................................................................... 11
ath sw7 .............................................................................................. 11
Canadian National F7AU .............................................................. 11
Life Like GP7 settings .................................................................. 11
engine ................................................................................................ 12
Sound Units ..................................................................................... 12
Train Cam .......................................................................................... 12
Old Mantua 4-6-2........................................................................... 12
Digitrax DZ123 back emf? ........................................................... 12
DC SOUND ........................................................................................ 13
Turntables and Home Theatre System connections ......... 13
Shipping time to Australia .......................................................... 13
Lenz 100 ........................................................................................... 13
Trix Big Boy ....................................................................................... 13
DCC Specialties ............................................................................... 14
Place of Manufacture.................................................................... 14
SD70M Shell .................................................................................... 14
Clean Machine Review ................................................................ 14
Bachman DCC ................................................................................. 15
Everything you need.... ................................................................. 15
MANTUA #386-040 ........................................................................ 15
NCE-TTX No Reverse ..................................................................... 15
RE: Zephyr review .......................................................................... 15
2
Turntable Wiring ............................................................................. 16
Turntable Wiring ............................................................................. 16
Super Service................................................................................... 17
Tony ..................................................................................................... 17
How to get through to Tony?..................................................... 17
dcc for tortoise ................................................................................ 17
Reverse Loop ................................................................................... 17
Shipment Time ............................................................................... 17
Newbie ............................................................................................... 17
Reverse Loop ................................................................................... 17
UT1 & UT2 Problems .................................................................... 17
Reverse Loop ................................................................................... 18
Dream Speakers ............................................................................. 18
contact ................................................................................................ 18
crest compatability ......................................................................... 18
Krauss-Maffei ................................................................................... 18
Krauss-Maffei ................................................................................... 18
DCC for Bachman On30 Gas Mechanical.............................. 18
Lenz LE1014 decoder - speed curve help! .......................... 18
mrc booster ...................................................................................... 19
New DCC discussion group ........................................................ 19
TCS M1 decoder difficulties ....................................................... 19
No Reverse! ...................................................................................... 19
No Reverse! ...................................................................................... 19
nce aliasing ....................................................................................... 20
Lenz stack problem ....................................................................... 20
Great New DCC Help Group ...................................................... 20
nce & mrc compatibility ............................................................... 20
Lenz 01 system ............................................................................... 20
North Conway 7470 ..................................................................... 20
Athearn Parts ................................................................................... 21
Other message boards ................................................................. 21
Athearn Parts ................................................................................... 21
Dirty Track/DCC ............................................................................... 22
NCE Service ...................................................................................... 22
Lenz & Atlas ...................................................................................... 22
N Scale track cleaner .................................................................... 23
DCC and HO Unitrack Turnout Question............................... 23
Union Pacific .................................................................................... 23
Lens and Atlas ................................................................................. 24
Computer Control ......................................................................... 25
DCC Track Plan Review ................................................................ 26
Computer Control ......................................................................... 26
Broadway Limited Hudson Issues ........................................... 26
NCE 1/2 Antenna ........................................................................... 26
Lenz ..................................................................................................... 26
NEW NCE WIRELESS ANTENNA ................................................ 26
DCC Recommendation ................................................................ 27
AHM/Rivarossi .................................................................................. 27
Digitrax lights do not work ......................................................... 27
Atlas Sound ...................................................................................... 27
MRC Prodigy ..................................................................................... 27
Deceiving DCC ................................................................................. 28
Led Resistors .................................................................................... 29
nce version # ................................................................................... 29
Wiring turnouts in succession ................................................... 29
Kellor CTC-80 System For Sale................................................. 29
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Wired track joiners ........................................................................ 29
LED resistors .................................................................................... 29
power problem............................................................................... 30
Viscous Rumors #2 ........................................................................ 30
Viscous Rumors ............................................................................... 30
dual speakers................................................................................... 30
No Light Function........................................................................... 30
P2k GP30-Atlas Decoder ............................................................. 30
globe steam railfan excursions ................................................. 30
p2k resistor ....................................................................................... 30
N gague 30' Diamond x'ing ......................................................... 31
Loconet voltage drop? .................................................................. 31
Zephyr, MS100 and Train Controller PC software ? ......... 31
Digitrax Command Station and Booster Question ............ 31
Peco code 75 electrofrog turnouts ......................................... 31
Pilz Elite Turnouts .......................................................................... 31
Circuit Breaker Advice .................................................................. 32
Decoder for P1K RS10 ................................................................. 32
EasyRamp .......................................................................................... 32
Kapton tape ..................................................................................... 32
Big Boy decoder ............................................................................. 33
Digitrax 583S Decoder Installation .......................................... 33
Decoder installation in Kato DD13 Center Cab Switc ..... 33
Kato Crossing and DCC................................................................ 33
Stationary decoders and PECO switch machines .............. 33
MRC Prodigy problems ................................................................ 33
Decoder for N Scale Spectrum Dash 8 Series .................... 34
Decoder installation-Rivarossi Blue Goose ........................... 34
Buying a DCC................................................................................... 34
flat led ................................................................................................ 34
Atlas Bulb Question ...................................................................... 34
Can I use a PC to replace any part of a DCC system ...... 35
Need AHM parts ............................................................................. 35
Basic wiring ...................................................................................... 36
Spectrum Decoder help .............................................................. 36
Java Model Railroad Interface ................................................... 36
Switch-it on Atlas Master DCC System .................................. 36
What Recommended Decoders?.............................................. 37
Atlas Decoder Problems .............................................................. 37
Need Input - Wireless Control System .................................. 37
Status Codes .................................................................................... 38
Athearn .............................................................................................. 38
cass /?? ............................................................................................... 38
RRampMeter .................................................................................... 38
MRC/NCE .......................................................................................... 39
PROTO 2-8-4 .................................................................................... 39
re frog powering ............................................................................ 39
site is shrinking ............................................................................... 39
PECO Small Radii Switch #4 -- AC Motor/DC Decoder .. 40
CTC-80 ................................................................................................ 40
lenz 02 system ................................................................................ 40
Atlas Dual Mode Decoder engines .......................................... 40
frog powering .................................................................................. 41
Mounting a PS2 .............................................................................. 41
DH150Atlas ....................................................................................... 41
double crossover problem .......................................................... 41
Loco Net wire .................................................................................. 42
Stewart S-12 .................................................................................... 42
Peco Insulfrogs ................................................................................ 42
peco switches .................................................................................. 42
Programming software for Soundtraxx .................................. 42
Broadway Limited Sound ........................................................... 42
NCE Switch-it problem ................................................................ 43
KATO SD90 ........................................................................................ 43
Peco Insulfrog Turnouts ............................................................... 43
Athearn 2-8-2 problem................................................................ 44
DS54 and PowerHouse Pro ....................................................... 45
rev. loop question ......................................................................... 45
Atlas System ..................................................................................... 45
PS Rev ................................................................................................ 45
A short somewhere? .................................................................... 45
ROCO HO MODELS ....................................................................... 46
PSI Dynatrol ...................................................................................... 46
spectrum 44toner .......................................................................... 46
stationary dec./twin-coils ............................................................. 46
Zephyr functions ??? ...................................................................... 47
Digitrax TF-2 troubles? .................................................................. 47
MRC ..................................................................................................... 47
Lionel Long Island #8367 ........................................................... 47
Atlas S4 (NCE-TTX ATLS4) Decoder Installation ................. 47
Proto 2000 E8/9 ............................................................................ 47
new web page ................................................................................ 47
NCE Wireless Cab Addresses..................................................... 48
life like ............................................................................................... 48
BBS doesn't display ...................................................................... 48
New Web Page Style.................................................................... 48
Tony's Power Shield ...................................................................... 49
Installing Power Pax booster ..................................................... 49
Installing Power Pax booster ..................................................... 49
Installing Power Pax booster ..................................................... 49
NCE Switchit Decoders ................................................................ 49
Atlas Decoders ................................................................................. 49
MRC Decoders on PHPro ............................................................ 51
onboard sound ................................................................................ 51
HO Kato SD45 decoder ............................................................... 52
Wireless Base Station .................................................................. 52
NCE radio .......................................................................................... 52
NCE BD20 detectors ..................................................................... 52
NCE Powerhouse ........................................................................... 52
which dcc .......................................................................................... 52
Which DCC? ..................................................................................... 52
NCE Radio ......................................................................................... 53
tortoise switch machine powering .......................................... 53
Decoder in a Hornby Thomas .................................................... 53
Ident needed................................................................................... 54
Cab holders ...................................................................................... 54
arnold prices .................................................................................... 54
Bradford Locomotives .................................................................. 54
Rivarossi Challenger ...................................................................... 54
Jordan Spreader ............................................................................. 55
HELP!! autoreverser problems .................................................. 55
Reversing Section Problem ........................................................ 55
Lenz100XF Woes ............................................................................ 56
DH121 decoder configurable lights or not? ......................... 56
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 3

Atlas U33C lights inop. ................................................................. 57
Soundtraxx Decoders .................................................................... 57
?'s about the PS intelligent reverser ....................................... 57
soldering feeders ........................................................................... 57
MRC Prodigy DCC........................................................................... 57
Types of glue .................................................................................... 58
decoder install athearn geisis sd-70 ....................................... 58
Allegheny installation - lights? ................................................... 58
Genesis Pacific - DCC ................................................................... 58
help!! ................................................................................................... 59
Spectrum HO 0-6-0 ...................................................................... 60
Lenz100XF Woes ............................................................................ 60
IHC Loco Wheels ............................................................................ 60
Sound Decoder for S1 ................................................................. 61
EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder ...................................................... 61
DCC sound ....................................................................................... 61
Hooking up DCC ............................................................................. 61
Spectrum 44 ton ............................................................................ 62
Athearn genesis F3A/B decoder?............................................. 62
Bachmann Porter ........................................................................... 62
Types of loco decoders ................................................................ 62
Lenz decoders on NCE? .............................................................. 63
On3 Porter ........................................................................................ 63
nce radio ........................................................................................... 63
Which system!? ................................................................................ 63
installation instructions for Athearn 200 ton cran ............. 63
Reverse loops? ................................................................................ 64
Turnouts and decoders??............................................................. 64
Zimo DCC system........................................................................... 64
how many pounds does this engine weigh ........................ 64
Do they sell these engines ......................................................... 64
walthers new passenger station .............................................. 65
RE: irresponsible posts ................................................................. 65
Running double crossover switch ............................................ 65
Decoder for Athern ....................................................................... 66
Rock Junction?? ............................................................................... 66
allegheny 2-6-6-6........................................................................... 66
atheran dash 9 coupler................................................................ 66
Decoder Selection ......................................................................... 66
NCE Radios ship 1/4 ..................................................................... 67
Irresponsible Posts ........................................................................ 67
Lionel wanted 50's&60's ............................................................. 67
coreless motors??........................................................................... 68
DC input NCE powerhouse pro ............................................... 68
NCE Wireless??????? ...................................................................... 68
hours ................................................................................................... 69
Speaker Terminals ......................................................................... 69
two booster ..................................................................................... 69
Well Done! ........................................................................................ 69
NCE & MRC decoders ................................................................... 70
NCE Two Boosters ......................................................................... 70
How hard is it? ................................................................................ 70
decorder for P2K S1 ..................................................................... 71
Enough DCC For Everyone ......................................................... 71
Digitrac opinion ............................................................................... 71
Digitrax Vs NCE ................................................................................ 71
NCE products ................................................................................... 72
4
Dcc novice mistake ........................................................................ 73
Lenz Decoders ................................................................................. 73
Function only decoders................................................................ 73
NCE radio conversion ................................................................... 74
Stweart VO1000 decoder ........................................................... 74
non sound decoder for ho bachmann shay ........................ 74
Spectrum Passenger cars ............................................................ 74
Speaker Polarity .............................................................................. 74
DH-121 light problem .................................................................. 75
DS54 & CD unit ............................................................................... 75
Lights ................................................................................................... 75
N.C.E. Service???? ........................................................................... 75
Anyone here? Hello? ..................................................................... 76
Kato Dash 9/Soundtraxx .............................................................. 77
DS44 Quad Stationary Decoder ............................................... 77
re:dcc of athearn sd70 ................................................................. 77
DCC wiring of Athearn SD70I? ................................................. 77
sound4 Stewart VO1000&Atlas U25B .................................... 77
Atlas motors ..................................................................................... 78
powered frogs ................................................................................. 78
E.M.D. Generations. phases ....................................................... 78
Proto 1000 / DCC .......................................................................... 78
Soundtraxx DSD-100LC Hummmmmm ................................ 78
Mu operations? ............................................................................... 78
Kato N scale SD80/90 decoders?............................................. 79
Lenz CV Defaults ............................................................................ 79
Decoder for Atlas Alco S-1 .......................................................... 79
PM4 ..................................................................................................... 79
Roco Crane ....................................................................................... 80
DH121 Diagnosis?........................................................................... 80
Radio Throttles ................................................................................ 80
TCS TH141 dcoder question ...................................................... 80
P2K E6 ................................................................................................ 80
TCS decoders ................................................................................... 81
NCE decoders .................................................................................. 81
Value and Sell Trains .................................................................... 81
DSD LL100LC................................................................................... 81
Rivarossi U25C Decoder .............................................................. 81
SW1500/sound installation ........................................................ 82
cab control ........................................................................................ 82
SD7 Headlights ................................................................................ 82
engine to fast .................................................................................. 82
Speed Matching Locos ................................................................. 83
pr1/lenz 103 decoder .................................................................. 83
DN-144K decoder........................................................................... 83
Lenz Decoder Help........................................................................ 83
Erratic operation ............................................................................. 84
CVP Supplier .................................................................................... 84
NCE D13SR decoder question. ................................................. 84
tender light ....................................................................................... 84
ER Models Baldwin Sharknose ................................................. 84
PR1 and TCS TH141 decoder .................................................... 85
PR1 and TCS TH141 decoder .................................................... 85
Decoder for KATO SD-45 ............................................................. 85
Proto 0-8-0 Electrical Pickup Conversion.............................. 85
Sound for Proto 2000 N&W 2-8-8-2 ...................................... 85
DSX + Motor Decoder in same loco ....................................... 85
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

PR-1 problems ................................................................................ 86
Digitrax Questions .......................................................................... 86
COM 2 for PR1 ................................................................................ 86
DCC Sound with built-in speaker ........................................... 86
Proto 2000 2-8-8-2 ....................................................................... 87
lights .................................................................................................... 87
NCE USERS GROUP ....................................................................... 87
MRC decoder F7? ........................................................................... 87
Ops Programming Mode ............................................................. 88
Proto 2000 GP7 .............................................................................. 88
Consist Problem ............................................................................. 88
Walther's FM .................................................................................... 89
Can't Use 01 Short address ....................................................... 89
Re: user group ................................................................................. 89
nce user group ................................................................................ 89
NCE for LL Proto 1000 ................................................................ 90
CZ-121 & MRC 2000 ..................................................................... 90
Stewart F7a ...................................................................................... 90
Digitrax 300 vs. 400 ...................................................................... 91
Locked up NCE Procab ................................................................ 91
Lenz Factory Settings? .................................................................. 91
LL GP20 install ................................................................................ 91
D102EU in Kato -9 ........................................................................ 91
CP, CN, help ..................................................................................... 91
SW1500 Ditch Lites ...................................................................... 92
Holiday Specials .............................................................................. 92
HOLIDAY SPECIAL........................................................................... 92
Holiday Special ................................................................................ 92
NCE in P2K GP-7 ............................................................................ 92
Stall Current for DCC ................................................................... 92
Atlas DCC/ Soundtraxx DSX? ...................................................... 92
SW1500/Ditch lites ....................................................................... 92
need layout.... .................................................................................. 93
minimum radius for ho ............................................................... 93
NCE wireless .................................................................................... 93
power bus/cab bus conflict ........................................................ 94
HELP! Athearn Mikado ................................................................. 95
PR-1 Minimum Requirements?................................................. 95
NCE Decoders ................................................................................. 95
Proto 2-8-8-2 Review ................................................................... 95
Turnouts for DCC ............................................................................ 96
Decoder for Proto 2000 SD60 .................................................. 96
CMX Track Cleaner ........................................................................ 96
How good is Atlas DCC................................................................ 96
Riv. Big Boy ....................................................................................... 97
Walthers FM H10 switcher decoder install .......................... 97
DCC install on Kato SD40 ........................................................... 98
Switch-It ............................................................................................ 98
Chief dilema .................................................................................... 98
B&O F3's ............................................................................................ 98
White N-scale LEDs ....................................................................... 98
Value or Find Model Train Items at Auction ........................ 98
computer control ............................................................................ 98
CV19 design flaw ........................................................................... 99
Proto2000 PA................................................................................... 99
Athearn GP-30's .............................................................................. 99
Coupler conversion for Con-Cor .............................................. 99
Heritage 0-8-0 Bulb Installation ............................................ 100
an interesting decoder problem ........................................... 100
Proto 2000 GP30 ........................................................................ 100
Digitrax DH121 on System One ............................................ 100
Proto 2000 GP7 Decoder Issues ........................................... 100
Proto 1000 RDC .......................................................................... 101
Lenz Decoders .............................................................................. 101
NCE Throttles................................................................................ 101
NCE Customer Support ............................................................ 101
Rivarossi 4-8-4 Opinions ........................................................... 102
North Coast Throttle .................................................................. 102
switch machines .......................................................................... 102
DH142 decoders .......................................................................... 102
Peco Wiring ................................................................................... 102
GP-40 Shell removal .................................................................. 103
rivarossi passenger cars ............................................................. 103
Steam Locomotive Power Pickup ........................................ 103
Steam Locomotive Power Pickup ........................................ 103
60 deg diamonds ........................................................................ 104
HO SCALE TRAINS ....................................................................... 104
GP 30 Light .................................................................................... 104
need motor drive gear for Rivarossi Heisler ..................... 104
lenz-02 consist ............................................................................. 104
DCC Install KATO GP35 ............................................................. 104
DCC install--Atlas GP40............................................................. 104
Steam Locomotive Power Pickup ........................................ 104
Other Location For Good DCC Info ..................................... 106
Walthers SW-1 Decoder Installation .................................... 106
Turn out Shorts Revised ........................................................... 106
turn out shorts ............................................................................. 106
nce consist, FX, power districs, etc. ..................................... 106
nce power districts ..................................................................... 106
128 SS ............................................................................................. 107
Uploadable Speed Curves ....................................................... 108
consisting ........................................................................................ 108
NCE Cab04e ................................................................................. 108
How can Control Turntable (Roco) in DCC ...................... 108
Athearn Genesis DCC ................................................................ 109
Atlas GP-40 .................................................................................... 109
FX problems .................................................................................. 109
Digitrax Decoder Reset .............................................................. 111
Wipe Out for Other DCC ......................................................... 111
Wipe-Out ....................................................................................... 112
Non DCC Loco Again ................................................................. 113
Non DCC Loco .............................................................................. 114
Coupler Conversion web site ................................................ 115
40's 50's replica trains ............................................................... 115
Decoder for Bowser Loco ........................................................ 115
Programming DN146A FX with NCE .................................... 115
problems with Atlas n-scale switches for DCC................ 115
What is LOCONET ....................................................................... 116
Friendly Turnout Points ............................................................. 116
MDC rtr Shay ................................................................................. 117
Trolley DCC .................................................................................... 117
EasyDCC Radio Throttle ............................................................ 117
USED CODE 100 NICKEL SILVER FLEXIBLE TRACK ........ 117
Lenz Set 02 ................................................................................... 117
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 5

Starting Voltage ............................................................................ 117
Turnouts .......................................................................................... 117
Decoder Speed Curve ............................................................... 118
DCC Analog help ......................................................................... 118
GP20 Decoder Install ................................................................. 119
Atlas DCC Installation ................................................................ 119
Switches ......................................................................................... 119
DCC Signal Bus ............................................................................ 121
Decoder Programming .............................................................. 121
delivery ............................................................................................ 122
NCE Deliveries??? ........................................................................ 122
DCC Signal Bus ............................................................................ 122
DCC Beginner 2nd Question .................................................. 122
LED's for PS III .............................................................................. 123
DCC Beginner .............................................................................. 123
LED's for Power Shield III ........................................................ 124
wanted : Used MRC 2000 ....................................................... 124
ROUNDHOUSE BOX CAB ......................................................... 124
Back EMF Consists ...................................................................... 124
Ditch Lights .................................................................................... 124
NEED MORE POWER .................................................................. 125
Track and Switches ..................................................................... 125
Bad Decoder ................................................................................. 126
Status of radio throttles ........................................................... 126
Athearn 2-8-2 with Soundtraxx ............................................. 127
Sagami Can Motors .................................................................... 127
LBF WC Hi-Cube box cars ....................................................... 127
Decoder Uncoupling .................................................................. 128
LE105XF ......................................................................................... 128
Stewart FTs.................................................................................... 129
lights with NCE D102US .......................................................... 129
TTX/SW12 ...................................................................................... 130
Soundtraxx & Digitrax Genesis ................................................ 130
MRC decoders with Digitrax .................................................... 130
Riv Pass Cars ................................................................................. 130
Carbon Build Up .......................................................................... 131
Opening Cab of P2KSW ........................................................... 131
N-scale decoder install .............................................................. 132
Decoder installation in a LL P2K GP20 ............................... 133
PK2 SW resistor value ............................................................... 133
Elec. pickup for tender ............................................................. 134
Decoder for Stewart FT's.......................................................... 134
Walther's Rotary on DCC .......................................................... 134
Switcher Decoders ..................................................................... 135
Set02 Programming ................................................................... 135
PR-1 Programmer Problem ..................................................... 135
Homasote roadbed..................................................................... 137
Momentum ................................................................................... 137
Bachman 2-8-0, Soundtraxx .................................................... 137
Lenz Set 02 ................................................................................... 137
Tender ............................................................................................. 137
Ernest Picciotti .............................................................................. 137
Tender ............................................................................................. 138
NCE signal line ............................................................................. 138
Removing Decals ......................................................................... 138
Accel/Decel .................................................................................... 139
Drive Frequency ........................................................................... 140
6
Sountraxx Question .................................................................... 140
TTX--PS/AR ..................................................................................... 140
reverse blocks ............................................................................... 140
DCC Decoder plug wiring for Bachmann K-4 .................. 140
Rivarossi Challenger Tender .................................................... 141
Decoder for Walthers SW1 ...................................................... 141
Informitive site ............................................................................. 141
Atlas Classic GP-7/RS-3 Decoder Install .............................. 141
LL P2K EMD E8/9 Decoder install???................................... 141
Building Structure ....................................................................... 142
In defense of Tony ..................................................................... 142
NCE question................................................................................ 142
Nice Site ......................................................................................... 144
Athearn 2-8-2 wiring ................................................................. 144
Genesis Mikado............................................................................ 144
Light Fx's ......................................................................................... 144
CTC 80 ............................................................................................. 144
Decoders for P2K SW9 ............................................................. 144
Bachmann Light Mountain ...................................................... 145
electrical wipers .......................................................................... 145
MRC .................................................................................................. 146
Decoders for P2K GP-30 .......................................................... 146
Decoder for HO P2000 PA's .................................................... 146
MDC shay locomotive ................................................................ 147
MDC shays ..................................................................................... 147
Shinohara Turnouts: 4 Sale ..................................................... 147
motors-coreless??? ...................................................................... 147
NCE and DCC ............................................................................... 147
Digitrax users converted to NCE ............................................ 147
NCE Wireless/ Radio Throttle? ............................................... 148
Atlas Layout #29 & DCC ........................................................... 148
Atlas #36 DCC Power Districts .............................................. 148
Wanted Dynatrol Stuff .............................................................. 148
Walthers SW-1 decoder ........................................................... 149
Installing a DZ121 in a PP 2K SW 9/1200(HO) .............. 149
Dynatol for Sale ........................................................................... 149
Atlas RS3 (HO) decoder installation .................................... 149
Atlas layout # 29 ......................................................................... 149
Bach. 2-8-0 .................................................................................... 150
On Board For Sale ...................................................................... 150
RE: designing ................................................................................ 150
What booster to use? ................................................................ 150
DCC wiring .................................................................................... 150
Designing for DCC ...................................................................... 150
DCC Wiring .................................................................................... 151
NCE DCC system ......................................................................... 151
DCC Wiring .................................................................................... 151
Switch machines ......................................................................... 151
Learning .......................................................................................... 151
ONBOARD FOR SALE ................................................................. 152
OLD REVELL N TRAIN SETS ..................................................... 152
DCC Software .............................................................................. 152
Bachman 4-8-2 and DCC ......................................................... 152
O Scale DCC ................................................................................. 152
MRC Command 2000 ............................................................... 152
Grade crossing signals ............................................................... 152
digitrax pr1 ..................................................................................... 152
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Onboard for Sale ......................................................................... 152
Wireless at NMRA 1999 ............................................................ 153
Wireless throttles ........................................................................ 153
decoder in Atlas S2 .................................................................... 153
LE103 (no light) .......................................................................... 155
DT300 Throttle ............................................................................. 155
Soundtraxx Programming ......................................................... 155
DCC in Bachman Center Cab ................................................ 155
Onboard et. al. ............................................................................. 156
Soundtrax & Programing ........................................................... 156
CVP Products/turnout cntrl ...................................................... 156
Power filter ................................................................................... 156
MRC Decoders .............................................................................. 156
Throttle/lite ................................................................................... 156
throttle/lite .................................................................................... 156
DCC and Dynatrol........................................................................ 156
MRC COMMAND 2000 .............................................................. 156
Command Turntable with a Digitrak DS54 ....................... 157
Circutiron ........................................................................................ 157
DCC vs Dynatrol DCC ................................................................. 157
Turnout machines........................................................................ 157
switches .......................................................................................... 157
TrainCam ........................................................................................ 158
Block Detection with Digitrax ................................................. 158
Isolating motor N-scale ............................................................. 158
ctc-80 ............................................................................................... 158
Decoder Selection ...................................................................... 158
MRC 2000 & Lenz Decoders ................................................... 158
PFM sound for sale .................................................................... 158
Model Railroad Photos .............................................................. 158
Digi dt300/& sound .................................................................... 158
decoders with sound ................................................................. 159
Mantua Steam Locomotives ................................................... 159
Plug Pinout .................................................................................... 159
Decoder programming .............................................................. 160
Decoder install ............................................................................. 160
Digitrax Chief ................................................................................ 160
EasyCAB Master/Slave ............................................................... 160
Onboard for sale ......................................................................... 160
MRC 4000 ...................................................................................... 160
MRC Command 4000 ............................................................... 160
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 7

Re-motoring Athearn RTR SD40
Posted by Sean Hoyden on April 30, 2007, 01:03pm
Any thoughts on the best type of motor to replace the stock Athearn
motors with? I'm looking to re-motor an SD40 and possibly some
AC4400's. I'd considered the KATO HM-5 replacement motors, but
not sure if they'll work with the worm gears and drive lines already
present, or will I need to replace everything?Thanks, Sean
Decoder for Proto2000 E8/9 loco
Posted by Howard White on April 24, 2007, 09:43pm
What type of decoder is suitable for this locomotive?(HO
scale)Thanks
NCE
Posted by plain_dane on February 25, 2007, 09:01pm
Hi,I have a rivarossi heisler and an Atlas Dash-8 both with
sound,first one with tsunami and the other with Quantum.My
problem is that when I try to run these engines on any other system
than NCE I get sound only,no momentum.I have tried them on both
digitrax and MRC with the same results.no movementI have two
spectrum shays also with sound(soundtrax) and they run just
fine.Thanks
Proto2000 0-6-0 tender
Posted by Roger E. Smith on February 23, 2007, 11:08pm
I'm looking for someone who bought a P2K heritage USRA 0-6-0,
undecorated, #30225. This loco came with interchangeable bunkers
to convert from coal to oil. If you are not using the oil bunker part,
I'd like to buy it from you. Thanks
Proto 2000 GP-9 Phase III Pilot
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on February 22, 2007, 03:20pm
I am looking for a replacement pilot for a Proto 2000 GP-9 phase
III locomomtive with dynamic brakes. Thanks.Ed
UR91
Posted by Terry Ketcham on January 22, 2007, 05:04pm
Does the UR91 come with the a power supply cord when ordered
?Thanks Terry
Decoder to control turntable
Posted by Charlie on January 03, 2007, 12:52am
I have a Walthers motorized turntable. The older style - not indexed.
Is it possible to use a decoder to control the Walthers motor?
Hopefully, this would allow for slow operation of the motor and
visual alignment of the bridge track.
8
Re: Decoder to control turntable
Posted by Ed McCamey on January 15, 2007, 03:50pm
Possible - yes. May even give you the kind of control you want.
But if you just want a slow motion, you can also experiment
some with diodes and resistors to get better control of direct
hook up. Could even have a slow-fast switch.Use some power
diodes paired to the leads to immediately cut the voltage some,
and add some power resistors across the leads and in series to
cut the output speed - will also give greater control over
speed.One nice way to deal with a variable control would be to
cobble up one of those 317 IC throttle controls - power supply
circuit and adjust for your specific like.Either way would be
cheaper and be less confusing to visiting operators.-ed
mccamey-COSLAR RR
Sound activation
Posted by Bill Stone on December 20, 2006, 08:26pm
Just had a sound decoder installed and about to program various
features. How do you activate each function ie bell, whistle etc? I
have LENZ 100 system but the manual only covers setting up not
activation.Thanks,Bill Stone
Re: Sound activation
Posted by Ed McCamey on December 27, 2006, 09:47am
Bill,Activation is done through the function controls on the Lenz
system - I don't have a Lenz command station - so I can't help
with the specifics. Put her on the track and get ther going -
punch the buttons for functions and you'll get the responses. The
decoder manual will tell you which function does what sound.
ATH SD45-2 decoder installation
Posted by reisi on December 12, 2006, 02:42pm
Hi I recently bought an ATH G SD45-2 without decoder and sound
because its running quality was quite bad. I've installed a Digitrax
DH163 decoder on the DCC ready board, however, the unit
behaved very strange and reacted only with delay to the throttle
commands, if it reacted at all. Did somebody experience the same
problem and if yes, how did you solve it??Peter
PS4 Red Light Stays On
Posted by Dan Helfgott on November 19, 2006, 04:37pm
I have a PS4 and suddenly the Red LED of #4 stays on, even
though it is disconnected from the track. The instructions talk about
a manual reset, and I tried doing that (at least I think I did) but to no
avail. The red LED continues to stay on. How can I fix this so that
the unit works properly?
Re: PS4 Red Light Stays On
Posted by Ed McCamey on December 04, 2006, 04:42pm
Dan,Contact Tony - directly. He doesn't always keep up with the
postings here, and he will be able to help diagnose this better.
sound only
Posted by JP on November 07, 2006, 10:19pm
Does any decoder manufacture co.make a sound only decoder
forengines that are already motiondecoder equipped? Needed for
Bachman on board engines.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: sound only
Posted by Ed McCamey on November 09, 2006, 08:53am
Yes, the Soundtraxx DSX series available from TTX for 66.00 -
specify steam or diesel.-ed mccamey-
Older Aristocraft FA1/FB1 Sound?
Posted by Jody on November 01, 2006, 08:56pm
I recently acquired a new old stock pair of FA1/FB1 Southern
engines. The model numbers are 22019 and 22319. I noticed they
have the older style circuit board. Is the sound module available for
these trains? If so, what is the cost, how hard is it to install, and
how do I go about acquiring one? Thanks jc
Sound for Caterpillar Diesel Engine for Loco
Posted by Rowan Mangion on October 27, 2006, 10:57pm
I am Looking for a Sound decoder for a Loco that has a Caterpillar
Diesel Engine in it can anybody Help?
Re: Sound for Caterpillar Diesel Engine for Loco
Posted by Don Ploch on March 02, 2007, 12:25pm
Yes I have sound in the CatHO limited edition train set by
Norscott. don@ciscojunction.com
Mantua Locomotives
Posted by Jim Stone on October 04, 2006, 07:06pm
I see that Mantua is releasing an 0-6-0 switcher soon for about $60
retail. Does anyone have experience with recent Mantua steam loco
releases and an opinion of them?
Re: Mantua Locomotives
Posted by john on December 12, 2006, 08:29pm
A company has begun manufacturing the Mantua and can be
found in train stores and on ebay....the old manyua company
ceased production after offering engines with can motors and
these can be found also...the new mantua issues have Sagami
can motors and run real well.....i believe all of the mentioned
engines alsohave a gear box in place of the worm gear
drive....enjoy.
Digitrax problems?
Posted by Railman-X on September 16, 2006, 11:57pm
Has anyone heard rumours of Digitrax laying off ten or more
employees?
mrc #0001634
Posted by rosslyn on September 03, 2006, 10:34am
Help, please.I have a couple of mrc #0001634 snap in sound
decoder's from tony and have install'd them,( sound's great ) but
they don't run great atall, I have the roco set up (lokmaus 2 red.) all
my broadway's &proto's / esu-locksound are ok.I ran the mrc
#0001634 on a freindslayout who has the prodigy advancesystem
and they run fine? ( help )
BD-20 compatability
Posted by Chuck Shaffer on July 30, 2006, 01:00pm
Hi guys,I have an Integrated Signal System that works poorly at
best. I think it's the dector sensitivity. I am trying to find out if the
BD-20 is compatable? Any ideas?thanks,Chuck
DCC Turnout Control
Posted by Tim Hale on April 21, 2006, 04:50am
If the current plan proceeds, I will need to be able to control the
route switching with a remote panel- Not difficult in analog but it
may be easier to use a laptop and DCC. Why a laptop? The one
simple advantage of analog is the graphic representation on a mimic
board of the trackplan-something that is impossible with a DCC
handheld. However the possibility of DCC using a laptop display is
appealing. Is this possible? What turnout control software is
available?
Re: DCC Turnout Control
Posted by Jacques W. Lajoie on April 22, 2006, 08:46am
Check PanelPro from the JMRI group.Jack W.
Digitrax sound decoders
Posted by Chuck Armbruster on March 19, 2006, 12:47pm
Having recently purchased a "Tower 55" U boat, which acted up out
of the box, I felt knowledge of how to fix the wierd goings on
might be of use to all. I contacted Digitrax. and quickly we were
able to correct the trouble. Placing the loco on the programing track,
program cv8 to 008 using direct mode programing. Exiting the
program mode place the loco on the main. Selecting address 03(the
default address) enter ops mode programing select and enter the
address chosen for the loco. Exiting ops mode select the new
address. Any other cv s can then be changed in ops mode on the
main. THx to Digtrax for the help!
Peco turnouts code 83
Posted by Franklin Lang on March 01, 2006, 10:05pm
What is the difference between Insulfrog and electrofrog? On my
new layout I do not want to rely on point contact like the Walters 83
turnouts on my prior layout. The "new" Walters turnouts, of which I
have a few, worked well, but now thinking about using Peco to
avoid needing throws. Thanks
Re: Peco turnouts code 83
Posted by Tim Hale on April 22, 2006, 02:27pm
In practical terms-none except you have better pick-up across the
crossing Vee. You always fit insulating joiners on crossovers,
right? And you must always feed from the heel of the turnout
otherwise the Peco turnouts are incredibly simple to use. Neither
do I make any changes for DCC operation. All the track on my
layout is Peco and has given absolutely no problem even though
the layout has travelled across Europe on the Expo circuit. Peco
is really a great product. Tim
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 9

PS Rev ?
Posted by Jeff B on February 13, 2006, 08:47pm
I am working with a PS Rev and two boosters (along with a PS 4
power shield). If I have a reversing loop can it be off of a different
booster than the adjacent block or must the adjacent block and the
reverse loop both be off the same booster ? In other words do both
the PS pwoer shield and the PS ev both need to be fed from the
same booster ? Right now I have them on separate boosters and the
PS rev trips when a locomotive crosses the block.
10
Re: PS Rev ?
Posted by Ed McCamey on February 22, 2006, 12:16pm
Jeff,It can be done - but you are haing a 'syncronization'
problem. You also will need to 'common ground' the
boosters.See the following from Don Crano's site:http://
home.neo.rr.com/mrwithdcc/Follow links - "Tips" (from side
barThen "Commons" from top headerThen "Commons and
Reversing" link in the 'commons' text-ed mccamey-
Prodigy Advance & Routes
Posted by Tony on January 09, 2006, 08:53am
Hello,
I have tried to program routers into my system and discovered an
unwanted by product - consists stop working.
When programming the route function of the system though it
(route) works without an issue, programmed consists drop off. It
seems that if I want to use the routing function I am left to program
consists when I want to use them. I can not seem to keep them in
memory.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Tony
Atlas O GP60M
Posted by Don Spencer on October 07, 2005, 07:06pm
What are my options for converting DC to DCC with or without
sound in these locomotives. I have modeled in N scale up to now.
aristocraft mikado
Posted by quentin mclachlan on July 22, 2005, 04:35pm
tony
I want to install a decoder and sound system in my aristocraft one
gauge mikado. which decoder and sound system do you recommend.
quentin
Bachmann L-1 Mountain
Posted by Steve McDaniel on July 10, 2005, 10:27pm
I bought a Bachmann L-1 steam engine which apparantly has
European noise suppresion components on the decoder PC board.
When i installed a Digitrax decoder, the engine promptly blew it out
and damaged my Digitrax booster as well. I have called Bachmann
repeatedly and get the "runaround". If anyone has had a similar
experience and knows of a solution I'd like to know. Right now the
engine is in a box. Bachmann has some great stuff but their
customer service stinks.
Re: Bachmann L-1 Mountain
Posted by Ed McCamey on July 21, 2005, 10:12am
I have always hard wired decoders into all my locomotives -
throwing away the provided interface PC board. Most others
have found that with the Bachmann interface boards, you have to
cut at least one of the leads to the capacitor on the board to stop
the decoder interference. The noise circuit is only effective for
DC operations - and then only required for 'International'
distributions.
-ed mccamey-
Tortoise and a Hare?
Posted by John Watts on June 17, 2005, 11:59am
I am just getting started with a DCC HO layout. I have 12 tortoise
switch machines, and am looking at the Hare controller. My
question is do I need a hare controller for each tortoise machine?
Thanks
John
Re: Tortoise and a Hare?
Posted by Fritz Milhaupt on June 21, 2005, 03:46pm
John-
Yes, a Hare unit only drives one switch machine, so if you
decide to go exclusively with them, you will need one for each
switch machine.
There are other units available that drive multiple switch
machines less expensively (on a per-turnout basis), such as the
Digitrax DS44, DS52 and (shortly) DS64, the Lenz LS100, and
the NCE SwitchIt!.
At present, only the Hare is designed to connect quickly and
directly to a Tortoise, and only the Hare has its non-derailing
Auto Throw feature.
-fm
Headlights
Posted by Bill Stone on May 26, 2005, 10:58pm
I have a Lenz 01/4 system and can't get the headlights to work in my
BL-2, which runs fine. I read the manual and followed the instructions
but no success. I think the decoder is ok but get concerned I
will make matters worse. If "bits" are involved I'm clueless...the
engine runs in the step 28 throttle notch.
Prodigy Adavance Question
Posted by Concord on May 10, 2005, 08:24pm
I need to be able to plug into something on my layouts' fascia. What
do I need and where do I get it? MRCs' web page wasn't very
helpful. Unless I missed something.
Thanks for your help
Concord
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Prodigy Advance
Posted by Jim on April 25, 2005, 02:31pm
I'm using the Lenz LS105 to control my turnouts. It seems when I
use the Route function, and activate it several times it wipes out the
software in the Prodigy Base Unit. MRC say's it doesn't know what
causes it. It has happened twice. They said it probably is the
decoder's fault.
Has anybody else had this kind of problem ? I hope someone can
help.
Jim Mayol
Email jpmayol@earthlink.net
Re: Prodigy Advance
Posted by Railman on April 26, 2005, 09:48pm
Jim Writes:
It seems when I use the Route function, and activate it several
times it wipes out the software in the Prodigy Base Unit. MRC
say's it doesn't know what causes it. It has happened twice. They
said it probably is the decoder's fault.
Has anybody else had this kind of problem ?
I cannot be the decoder. The DCC system can only send
commands to decoders, it can't receive anything from the
decoder. DCC track communication is one way only (until the
NMRA gets its act together). It sounds like a pretty serious bug
in your MRC (that's not unusual with MRC stuff).
tsunami
Posted by tom on April 10, 2005, 08:36pm
anyone hearing anything about the tsunami decoders? any idea
when they will be out?
Track help
Posted by David on March 29, 2005, 09:04am
I'm looking for crossovers where one track is HO and the cross
track is N. Can I buy these ready made or do I have to build them
myself? Thanks! Please send replies to kd7eze@yahoo.com
Re: Track help
Posted by Ed McCamey on March 29, 2005, 09:55am
David,
I know of NO ready made multi-gage crossovers. There's
several 'custom' trackwork providers that cna build what you
want (time and money) - or just build it yourself. Crossovers are
not hard to do with some thought and preparation.
SEE: http://www.westportterminal.de/howtoscrcrossings.html
for some help.
-ed mccamey-
Re: Re: Track help
Posted by james dunlap on April 05, 2005, 08:14pm
wrong shinohara does
Re: Re: Re: Track help
Posted by Ed McCamey on April 06, 2005, 10:33am
I'm familiar with the HO-HOn3 dual gage combinations - bu the
HO - N dual gage crossings I've never seen or found - where are
thay avialable?
-ed mccamey-
kato AC4400 sound?
Posted by David on March 22, 2005, 02:28pm
I want to add sound and dcc to a Kato HO AC4400CW.I see that
Soundtraxx has the DSD-AT100LC but I can't find it here. And it is
pricy. What are my options?
David
Re: kato AC4400 sound?
Posted by Nataraj on May 27, 2006, 06:36pm
LokSound makes great sound decoders and tonys sells them for
a good price ( There are 4 ac4400cw sound decoders to choose
from, the diferences are the type of horn. Leslie/nathan , 3/5
chime . )
ath sw7
Posted by james dunlap on March 12, 2005, 07:55pm
i have 2 athaern sw7's and i need some one to tell me how to in stall
decoders in them the motor's are 5pole with flywheel drive and if
and buddy has done this in the past or whats to sell thers plese
email at bonitaemyers@earthlink.net
Canadian National F7AU
Posted by Ryan Ho on March 12, 2005, 12:02am
A-Unit
BACHMANN INDUSTRIES
Make: EMD F7AU
Railroad: Canadian National
Road number: 9162
DCC: No
Sound: No
Problems: Requires EZ Mate Couplers
I want to convert to DCC, how much would it cost and as well the
price to change to EZ-Mate Couplers?
Life Like GP7 settings
Posted by Tony on February 25, 2005, 09:36am
Hi,
I have recently converted my system from cab to DCC using
MRC's prodigy advanced. The conversion went extremely smooth
with the assistance of the fine folks at Tonys Trains. The only issue
(maybe not) is I am unsure of the 'baseline' settings for the
following:
SV = Start Voltage (currently 3)
Acc = ?????
dEc = ?????
TV = Top Voltage (currently )
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 11

I think I should reset SV to something different than 3, as this
would give me more on the bottom end of the throttle.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Tony....
engine
Posted by Jeff Easterly on February 23, 2005, 02:12pm
I have a lifelike switcher that I took out of storage (after recently
moving) to clean the wheels. When I put it on the layout the reverse
light is lit but the engine's not running, and the light won't change
direction either. Previously this engine worked fine but now doesn't
run or anything. It is dcc equipped. Can anyone offer ideas as to
what's wrong?
Thanks,
Jeff
12
Re: engine
Posted by Fritz on February 25, 2005, 03:56am
Can you tell us the what decoder
is installed in the engine, please?
Regards,
fritz
Re: Re: engine
Posted by Jeff Easterly on March 01, 2005, 10:46am
The decoder involved is a Digitrax DH123
Re: engine
Posted by Fritz on March 01, 2005, 03:27pm
Try to run it in the 28ss mode.
If to no avail, turn track power off and then back on.
If to no avail and if it`s got a 4-digit address, take it to the
programming track and set CV29 to 2
in order to enable the 2-digit address.
If to no avail, try a reset, CV8=8
and start from scratch.
If to no avail, check the loco for correct wiring, especially cold
solder points.
If still no joy, contact Digitrax.
Hope this helps,
Fritz
Re: Re: engine
Posted by Jeff Easterly on March 02, 2005, 12:54pm
The rpoblem was corrected by reprogramming the engine.
Happy Railroading!!!
Jeff
Sound Units
Posted by George S on January 04, 2005, 10:03pm
I installed 2 Soundtraxx units about 3 years ago. I put one in an
Atlas GP40 and one in a Dummy Life Like GP7. You can beat the
sound from them. The Soundtraxx horn makes all the difference. I
made a video of the units about a month ago. If you want to watch
and listen it's at http://users.rcn.com/swal/mrr.htm
There's no www in the address.
George
Train Cam
Posted by Michael on December 05, 2004, 01:33am
That train camera looks great. I am looking forward tot he day when
BLI or some other company includes them in their engines. Also, it
would be nice for handheld throttles to have built in recivers/
displays. Then, each engineer could see their own train.
Re: Train Cam
Posted by Ed McCamey on December 06, 2004, 09:47am
Michael,
While the technology may exist, I'm afraid you would NOT like
the costs. There's a lot that can be done - but the actual transmission
of the output to handheld 'screens' would be daunting and
the 'resolution' (clarity) would be 'unremarkable'.
Old Mantua 4-6-2
Posted by Terry Casanova on October 27, 2004, 10:27pm
Sure could use some help! I am fairly new to model railroading and
have just completed my 1st layout. My uncle gave me an old
Mantua 4-6-2 Union Pacific 4073 Engine and Tender. The thing is
in pieces and was wondering if anyone has a schematic?
Thanks,
Terry
Re: Old Mantua 4-6-2
Posted by Jim Princi on December 20, 2004, 01:05pm
If you post a fax # or email I'll send it to you.
Digitrax DZ123 back emf?
Posted by Gustavo Villa on October 15, 2004, 10:29am
Looking for a low cost miniature decoder and I found that according
to TTX descriptions and digitrax simplified description in their web
page the DZ123 has back emf (Scalable speed stabilization
according to digitrax language technology), BUT the digitrax deeper
descriptions says that the DZ123 doesnâ t have this feature, the
CV guides of the DZ123 instructions says very clearly that this
feature is not available. So, back emf is or isnâ t a feature of this
tiny decoder?.
Thank you all.
Re: Digitrax DZ123 back emf?
Posted by Fritz on October 24, 2004, 02:02pm
Always follow the more restrictive
specs.
BEMF is still a premium feature with Digitrax. The DZ123 is an
entry level decoder. It`s got no BEMF.
Besides, Digitrax BEMF isn`t working as it`s supposed to. For
BEMF decoders go for ZIMO, ESU, Lenz and see Tony`s note
on the latest TCS decoder release.
Regards,
Fritz
Re: Re: Digitrax DZ123 back emf?
Posted by Gustavo Villa on October 26, 2004, 04:51pm
Thank you Fritz for your response. Im thinking in TCS for the
good price.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re: Digitrax DZ123 back emf?
Posted by DonV on December 02, 2004, 07:01pm
The MX61-2K Zimo unit works great.
The TCI unit has 'dither' which is pulse power, not BEMF speed
control.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax DZ123 back emf?
Posted by Fritz on December 04, 2004, 07:29pm
The MX61m2k has been superseded
by the MX63/64. BEMF is even better now.
The latest versions of these decoders (R17,...,) are designed
to be updated on the programming track with the decoder
installed in the loco. Provisions are made
for SUSI and Bidirectional Communication.
For updates a "MXDECUP" device is required. (TBA)
Regards,
Fritz
DC SOUND
Posted by VINNIE on October 04, 2004, 08:09pm
I'M NEW TO DIESELS WITH SOUND. I SAW THE NEW LIFE
LIKE GP9 THAT IS SOUND EQUIPPED AND WOULD LIKE
TO BUY ONE IN DC. MY QUESTION IS, IF YOU STOP THE
ENGINE WITH DC, DOES THE SOUND STOP ALSO? OR IS
THE POWER STORED SO THE SOUND IS STILL FUNC-
TIONAL?
Re: DC SOUND
Posted by David on October 10, 2004, 07:41pm
It operates the same as constant brightness lighting with DC.
You turn the power up to some point before the train starts
moving. The sound will start working. If you turn the power up
a little more the train starts to move. Then when you want the
train to stop you turn the power down until it stops but no
further. The sound will continue to work. If you turn the power
too far down the sound will stop.
David
PS Go with DCC. DC is dead.
Turntables and Home Theatre System
connections
Posted by Thabo on August 28, 2004, 05:34pm
I just recently bought Stanton's STR8-100 turntables, and I want to
know if they can be connected to home theatre system.If this can be
done,how and which system would i know is perfect for such
connections/wiring? I dont want to buy huge speakers coz this is
just something for the house to practice on.
Shipping time to Australia
Posted by Mal Foster on July 29, 2004, 07:39am
Hi All,
Are there any Aussies out there who have recently purchased from
USA? My question is how long did it take for the parcel to arrive? I
have purchased a Trix Big Boy just recently. It was shipped on the
13Jul04 and I am still waiting. Been 16 days now. USPS says 7-10
working days. I live in Adelaide Sth Aust.
Thanks in advance
Mal
Re: Shipping time to Australia
Posted by Darryl on July 29, 2004, 03:14pm
Mal,
Depends on how it was sent. International Express mail about
5days. Air Mail usually around 2weeks. Surface mail up to
8weeks or more. This is the time frame I work on for delivery to
Q.L.D
Re: Re: Shipping time to Australia
Posted by Mal Foster on July 30, 2004, 12:32am
Thanks Darryl,
Item was shipped Air mail, still waiting. Starting to worry
Re: Shipping time to Australia
Posted by Lance Pickering on January 31, 2005, 06:10am
Hello Mal,I had a Broadway Limited 4.8.2 sent from Philly PA
airmail it took 8days.Also Bachmann 4.8.2 from California
surface mail it took 8 weeks I was worried but it arrived.Both
items arrived just after Christmas I live in Sydney. Hope this
helps. Regards Lance.
Re: Re: Shipping time to Australia
Posted by Bob Lawrence on February 05, 2005, 09:47pm
I live in country Victoria, and I have ordered Locos from many
US shops over the years, usually about 2 weeks delivery by
airmail, but I have had locos sent from Tonys that have been here
in less that a week (7 days) allowing for the fact that Tonys is on
the East Coast that's good service from USPS, UPS take about 4
days but charge like a wounded bull. Stick to Airmail, it only
takes a few more days.
Lenz 100
Posted by Bill Stone on July 14, 2004, 10:58pm
I am unable to change e address on the programming track, I get
ERR 02
but the engine will run on the old address on the layout. When I
attempt to read the current address I get the error message. Does
this indicate the decoder is defective?
Re: Lenz 100
Posted by Powersteamguy1790 on July 17, 2004, 11:38am
Bill:
You might have to program your loco with CV 17 & CV 18 and
change CV 29 to four digit addressing.
Here is the link to the formula that will do that for you:
http://www.digitrax.com/addresscv071718.htm
Trix Big Boy
Posted by Mal Foster on July 06, 2004, 09:38pm
Hi, I am thinking about buying the Trix Big Boy. Does anyone own
one of these and able to give some feedback on value for money and
what they think of the Loco?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 13

14
Re: Trix Big Boy
Posted by Terry on July 08, 2004, 11:06pm
Hi Mal,
I bought one of the early units without sound. It looks and runs
great. I'm very happy with it. I installed a Soundtrax sound
decoder in it. Wish I would have known that they were going to
do a second run which includes built in sound. I'm sure you will
be very happy with this unit.
Enjoy !!
Terry
DCC Specialties
Posted by Larry Morgan on June 30, 2004, 08:45am
Why do you call it DCC Specialties instead of Tony's Trains? It's
the same guy that owns it.
Re: DCC Specialties
Posted by Phil Kamens on July 01, 2004, 11:53am
So Tony owns DCC Spec and what's the big deal? I don't see a
problem with it. Like GE they have more than one brand name.
Place of Manufacture
Posted by Ironmine on June 20, 2004, 10:11pm
Newbie here, getting ready to buy my DCC system. My local store
does not sell DCC systems.
Can you tell me where the different systems are made? Not just
where they may be packaged for distribution, or where a company's
offices may be, but where the actual componets are manufactured.
I'm really tired of China.
Thanks. Jim
Re: Place of Manufacture
Posted by Fritz Milhaupt on June 22, 2004, 02:10pm
Digitrax and NCE manufacture their systems in the US.
Lenz's is manufactured in Germany. Atlas' may be as well, if
they haven't sent production of their Lenz-based system to
China.
-fm
Re: Re: Place of Manufacture
Posted by Ed McCamey on June 22, 2004, 05:00pm
CVP - EasyDCC is manufactured here in the USA.
Re: Re: Place of Manufacture
Posted by DonV on July 02, 2004, 03:05pm
The parts may be assembled and tested in the USA, but in all
likelyhood the components are manufactured "off-shore".
DonV
SD70M Shell
Posted by Troy on June 05, 2004, 04:30pm
Looking for an SD 70M body shell, walkway and cab. (Genesis)
Clean Machine Review
Posted by Eric Page on May 11, 2004, 08:23pm
Tony's,
Having always used track erasers (e.g. Bright Boys) for track
cleaning, I was used to having to give a locomotive a frequent
nudge to keep things rolling. I was a bit hesitant to spring for the
cost of your CMX Clean Machine...but in retrospect it is the best
$100 that I've spent on model railroading. The flawlessly clean track
has eliminated ALL of the nudging, and has put the fun into
operation. Thanks for providing a great product!
Eric
Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by scott on May 12, 2004, 05:54pm
I too, recently purchased a CMX Clean Machine. I use on my
hime layout and our club layout. Both had excellent results!!
Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by DonV on May 21, 2004, 09:53am
Scott, Eric,
What solvent did you use in your clean machine?
Re: Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by scott on May 22, 2004, 08:05am
I used Aero track cleaning fluid
Re: Re: Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by JIM H on May 22, 2004, 10:16am
DOES THE AERO FLUID LEAVE ANY RESIDUE,i.e., OILY,
ETC?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by ed mccamey on May 22, 2004, 03:48pm
I use MEK with my Clean Machine - once a year. About every 4
months I use NO-OX drops around. Absolutely no problems.
CAUTION MEK is not a good choice for plastic flex track -
mine is all handlaid on wooden and PC ties.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by scott on May 23, 2004, 10:39am
It's "Aero Locomotive Works ACT 6006 Track Cleaner". It does
not leave a residue, it leaves a conductive coating.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by Bob Miller on May 27, 2004, 09:12am
I too use Areo in the Tony car. I actually have two cars, that are
part of a work train that is operated during op sessions. I have
the wet car ahead of the dry car. I can run any combination of
cleaning that way.
Both Tony cars have been painted in ATSF mofw gray, and have
been decaled for Santa Fe work service.
Bob
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by scott on May 27, 2004, 06:53pm
I actually do it that way also.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by JIM HEIDORN on September 14, 2004, 12:14pm
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THE CONDUCTIVE COATING
IS PETROLEUM OR OIL BASE????
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clean Machine Review
Posted by Rick on January 22, 2005, 11:03pm
Bob
Can you provide a link to a photo of this setup? I'd sure like to
see it.
Bachman DCC
Posted by ed bradbury on May 06, 2004, 08:07am
A very interesting and timely post. I had a similar problem with my
son's 44 tonner and a lenz LE1000W decoder. Loco began to have
jurky motion and finally didn't move at all or respond.
No short between decoder since I stuffed this up into the cab roof.
The window insert keeps it in place.
I couldn't get the decoder to program or read out any CV values on
the program track. My guess was the headlight may be on dispite
my trying to turn it off.
Solution was to disconnect one headlight lead from the Bachman
circuit board. It will put to much of a load on the programming
track. Sure enough I could reset the decoder to factory CV settings
and then reprogram them to what I wanted.
The flashing lights meant that my CPV command station was set for
28 throttle steps and the decoder was set for 14 - a mismatch.
Thanks for the info. I am going to remove Bachman board.
Everything you need....
Posted by Scott on May 02, 2004, 07:32pm
Your right everything you need to know and stuff you don't want to
is a great article. Thanks for the fine job!!!
MANTUA #386-040
Posted by MARK D FUNK on March 26, 2004, 10:20am
NEED MOTOR FOR MANTUA-386-040 EMAIL
MARK419@worldnet.att.net PHONE&FAX 410-282-4460
Re: MANTUA #386-040
Posted by Tony on March 29, 2004, 05:08pm
Please use classifieds for this:
http://www.ttx-dcc.com/classifieds/index.htm
Re: Re: MANTUA #386-040
Posted by Robert on March 31, 2004, 04:28pm
Please use http://www.tonystrains.com/classifieds/index.htm
Thanks
NCE-TTX No Reverse
Posted by Matt on March 24, 2004, 08:21pm
Just installed a brand new NCE/TTX decoder in a Proto2000 GP7
and now I no longer have reverse function. Reverse works in DC
mode with the stock PCBoard, but not with the new decoder. CV29
set to 0 as it should be. Any ideas??? Thanks in advance!
Re: NCE-TTX No Reverse
Posted by ed bradbury on March 25, 2004, 10:50am
CV29 = 0 (decimal) is 14 speed steps.
CV29 = 2 (decimal), ie 28 or 128 speed steps. This I think is
factory default.
I read somwhere NCE was no longer supporting 14 speed steps
as NMRA was considering dropping the requirement. I bet this
is in your decoder manual also.
You can program CV29 = 0 but as you see the loco isn't
operating.
hope this helps
enb
Re: NCE-TTX No Reverse
Posted by ed bradbury on March 25, 2004, 11:24am
Sorry I may have some mis information in previous reply
The TTX-P2KSR is made by NCE.
I just look at the NCE website and the decoder tm. The XXXSR
decoders are set at 28 speed steps. 14 speed step is no longer an
option (CV29=0). This implies CV29 = 2 as a minimum value.
The factory setting is CV29 = 6: normal direction, 28 spped
steps, analog (DC)/DCC operation.
As I noted before you can program CV29=0. However it maybe
causing a conflict with 28 speed steps.
Re: Re: NCE-TTX No Reverse
Posted by Matt on March 25, 2004, 08:29pm
CV29 was factory set to 6. I set it to 2 and then 0. None of them
helped out with the reverse problem. I am thinking there is
actually something wrong with the decoder at this point.
Forward works just fine. Suppose I will just use it as forward
only. Kind of a bummer though...
Re: Re: Re: NCE-TTX No Reverse
Posted by e bradbury on March 29, 2004, 07:46am
There are discussions on decoder installations and photos on
Tony's webpage and bulletin board.
Did you insulate the pocket in the frame with electrical tape
where the decoder sits? this prevents the decoder from shorting
out if it touches the frame.
I would contact NCE and get the decoder replaced or repaired.
Re: NCE-TTX No Reverse
Posted by Matt on March 31, 2004, 09:39pm
Had it insulated when assembling and tested it and found the
reverse issue before even assembling the body. NCE does have a
swap out program for 10 bucks, so I am sending it in for repair.
Thanks for the help!!!
RE: Zephyr review
Posted by Dale Gloer on March 12, 2004, 11:39am
I read Don Fiehmann's excellent review of the Digitrax Zephyr.
Excellent, that is, excpet for his assertion regarding MUing
locomotives that they must be placed in the same ohysical orienta-
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 15

tion. I have not tested this since I don't have a Zephyr but according
to the Zephyr manual, he is incorrect.
The manual says "You can add a locomotive to an MU in either
orientation and in any physical location in the train."
Further it says "Choose two locos you want to MU together. Place
them on the track. Make sure that both locos that will be part of the
MU are headed in the same physical direction."
That means that they must be moving in the same direction when
you MU them together but can be elephant style or back to back.
This si also consistent with all the other Digitrac command stations.
Dale.
16
Re: RE: Zephyr review
Posted by Fritz on March 15, 2004, 03:31am
I agree with you on the test.
My Zephyr can perform any style
of consist without changing CVs
19 and 29. Tested this.
Fritz
Re: Re: RE: Zephyr review
Posted by Don Fiehmann on March 21, 2004, 12:06pm
When I wrote the Zephyr review it was the first time that I had
worked with a Digitrax DCC system. I was not familiar the way
Digitrax handled consisting. My layout has both the Zephyr and
an NCE system. My experience was with the NCE system that
sets up consists differently than the Digitrax. I think that the
â œsame physical directionâ comment in the manual was not
clear to me and I thought at that time it meant they both had to be
operating in the same direction. That is why I changed CV-29 in
one of the Doodlebugs to operate in the reverse direction from
normal. The advantage for me was that this change allowed the
two units to operate correctly with either the Zephyr or the NCE
system.
Don Fiehmann
Re: Re: Re: RE: Zephyr review
Posted by Dale Gloer on March 24, 2004, 08:44am
Too bad you wrote it in a modeller's magazine and probably did
damage to the acceptability of a very fine product.
Dale.
Re: Re: Re: RE: Zephyr review
Posted by Ray Porter on April 01, 2004, 12:40pm
The problem with Muing is that both engines must have both
decoders set to run inthe same direction before setting the MU.
If one was last running in the opposite direction then that is the
way they will continue to run after the MU is set up. Using the
bell or whistle will also sometimes cause another loco to
suddeenly go into reverse - especially one controlled by a jump
port. By pressing the jump button you can control the functions
on the engine thus controlled at any time.
Re: Re: Re: Re: RE: Zephyr review
Posted by Fritz on April 03, 2004, 03:04am
NO.
The manual is omitting the most important point on MUing.
When setting up a back-to-back consist, select the lead or top
address according to the manual.
Then hit the MU-button.
!Then set the direction lever in reverse!.
Then continue according to the manual.
There is NO need to change the NDOT
in CV29.
This holds true for UniVersal as well as well as for Advanced
consisting.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: RE: Zephyr review
Posted by Fritz on April 03, 2004, 09:38am
Ray,
Before setting the reverse lever,
enter the address of the trailing unit. (See the exclamation mark
line of my previous posting.)
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: RE: Zephyr review
Posted by raymond on April 04, 2004, 01:17pm
Thanks, works every time following your procedure. Hope
Digitrax are reading these postings. Now if only someone has a
solution to the weird reversals when a funtion key is activated
for a train on another port. I like the Zephyr but would probalby
be happiest with an MRC Prodigy if it had the same programming
capability. The knob on the Zephyr is pleasant to use but
the MRC hand-helds are the most comforatable fit to my hand.
Turntable Wiring
Posted by Bill Stone on March 03, 2004, 04:45pm
Thanks Dale, since I'm using DCC I'll order an auto reverser from
Tony.
Bill
Re: Turntable Wiring
Posted by Dale Gloer on March 05, 2004, 08:39am
Bill,
just a reminder that for the autoreverser to be effective and not
operate too much, you should wire the exit tracks (those to the
roundhouse) the same as the approach track(s) and use the
autoreverser to connect only the turntable track.
Dale.
Turntable Wiring
Posted by Bill Stone on March 02, 2004, 10:40pm
Do I need to use an auto reverser?
Or, do I simply connect the table rails to the approach tracks.
Re: Turntable Wiring
Posted by Dale Gloer on March 03, 2004, 08:46am
You need a reversing scheme of some kind, either a manually
operated DPDT switch wired for reversing polarity, or an
automatic scheme which could be an autoreverser if your using
DCC or some turntables have their power pick up through a split
pit rail which takes care of the reversing function.
Dale.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Super Service
Posted by John Sawaska on February 28, 2004, 10:13pm
I recently purchased a Power Pax programing booster from Tony's,
but could not get it to work.
After a couple of phone calls Tony said he would send me a loaner
command station and I should send my command station to him. It
turned out that the problem was in my equipment. Tony found it,
and sent the command station to the mfgr who repaired it free(even
tho it was 3 yrs old). Now everything works the way it should.
Now that is real service. Again "THANK YOU Tony and every one
at TTX and also NCE for the fine service.
John Sawaska
Tony
Posted by Terry on February 23, 2004, 05:31pm
Peter,
I will call Tony's 800 number tomorrow for you and ask him to read
your message and reply. Hope this helps !!
Terry
How to get through to Tony?
Posted by Peter Ross on February 09, 2004, 11:57pm
Since being charged a different amount for S&H than I was quoted
and having my package misaddressed I have been trying to get an
explanation, but Customer Services just ignores my messages. Does
anyone know how to get through to Tony himself?
Thanks
Re: How to get through to Tony?
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 10, 2004, 08:33am
Call the 800 number. Chances are he is the one who will answer.
Dale.
Re: Re: How to get through to Tony?
Posted by Peter Ross on February 10, 2004, 01:32pm
Thanks, Dale, but I live in New Zealand: big time difference,
high cost. I would like to e-mail.
dcc for tortoise
Posted by RON on February 06, 2004, 07:40pm
can the lenz LS150 power this switch continuously so that the
points are tight and my led light stays lit?
Reverse Loop
Posted by Bill Stone on February 02, 2004, 08:15pm
On-Guard installed, works flawlessly....thanks Don V!
Shipment Time
Posted by Tom Schilling on January 29, 2004, 04:01pm
Wow, I don't know what TTX did but the shipment time on my
most recent order was absolutely great. I placed my order on Jan 27
and received my package on Jan 29. Great improvement. ...Tom
Re: Shipment Time
Posted by John Sawaska on January 29, 2004, 07:50pm
Usually Tonys is great, I have received things in as little as one
day. But I also have had it take as much as eleven days.
John S.(Wis.)
Newbie
Posted by Kelly on January 28, 2004, 05:56pm
Hello All, I have amassed a rather large number of trains,cars, etc.
over the last 20 years. I had hopes of building a layout,BUT now i
see"That ain't gonna happen". What I need is advice on how to find
good homes for these things. Most all is MIB. Untouched. Thanks
in advance. email k5tey@hotmail.com
Re: Newbie
Posted by John O on March 21, 2004, 07:22pm
Hi Newbie,
I'm sure you could find lots of good homes for an old collection
of beloved trains. If you have the time, e-Bay is probably the
way to get the fairest value for your items. Another option is to
rent a table at an upcoming swap meet in your area, but you
won't get as broad an audience for your items. You could use a
consignment service like JJ Reeves, however that'll return the
least. I can offer other options, e-mail me at
orminski@comcast.net if you'd like to chat further about it (got
any Union Pacific stuff?)
jOhn
Re: Newbie
Posted by Allen on August 31, 2004, 04:57pm
www.ebay.com
is always a great place to place items for sale. They regularly go
for more than they are worth to some competitive buyers.
Reverse Loop
Posted by Bill Stone on January 19, 2004, 09:43pm
Thanks Don V! Tony is sending his answer to my needs this week.
UT1 & UT2 Problems
Posted by David on January 15, 2004, 10:13pm
Do the Digitrax UT1 & UT2 default to 128 speed steps? I use
DH121's and program CV5 and CV6 for slower running engines.
When I try to acquire one of these engines they won't run on the
UT1 & UT2.
It seems to me that when I put values into CV5 & 6 that it changes
the speed step from 128 to 28.
Re: UT1 & UT2 Problems
Posted by Dale Gloer on January 17, 2004, 11:29am
According to the DH121 information on the Digitrax website -
see http://www.digitrax.com/dh121.htm
setting CV 5 and or CV 6 will force 28 speed step mode.
The UT1/2 throttles do not have an option to set the default
speed step so I expect that you get whatever is set in your
command station for a particular decoder. You can change the
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 17

18
system defaults in a DCS100 for example and you can status
edit individual decoders.
You should refer to the documentation for your particular
components. All the Digitrax product docs are on the Digitrax
website.
Dale
Reverse Loop
Posted by Bill Stone on January 15, 2004, 09:12pm
I am about to inastall a reverse loop [HO]. I have a Lenz 100 system
and would appreciate suggestions on what to buy. I have a Lenz 90-
100 System. Will either the Atlas or Lenz reverser work or are there
advantages in either one other than cost?
Thanks,
Bill Stone
Re: Reverse Loop
Posted by DonV on January 16, 2004, 05:47pm
But the On-Guard AR unit from Tony.
It simply works.
Re: Re: Reverse Loop
Posted by DonV on January 16, 2004, 05:49pm
Sorry, I can't type today.
Buy the On-Guard unit.
Dream Speakers
Posted by DonV on January 14, 2004, 12:47pm
Thanks for testing and publishing the Dream Speaker investigation.
contact
Posted by James E Zaitz, Sr on January 10, 2004, 06:17pm
Tony:
Please help me! A gentleman saw my AD, and sent me, a $1,000.00
worth of H.O. trains. I have his N-gauge ready for shipment, yet he
did NOT put an Address for me to ship his trains too. The phone
number he gave me is NOT a working number! Name is: Dave
Brown, Rockford, IL. Could you Post this to try and help me gethis
correct mailing address to be able to ship his trains to him ASAP.
Thank you VERY MUCH!
Sincerely,
James E. Zaitz, Sr
Re: contact
Posted by Railman on January 10, 2004, 10:35pm
www.anywho.com lists 2 David Browns
2217 N. Alpine Rd
Rockford, IL 61107
815-398-1140
David L. Brown - Atty.
401 W. State Street
Rockford, IL 61101
815-968-4474
hope this helps
Re: contact
Posted by Jim Zaitz on January 20, 2004, 02:30pm
Dave Has called Thanks
crest compatability
Posted by jg on January 08, 2004, 01:55pm
A company called Crest makes a "switching" dc power supply.
it is available from micromark.
would this power supply be compatable with nce or dititrax dcc
systems?
Krauss-Maffei
Posted by Dick on December 31, 2003, 01:59pm
Just wondering, has anyone
successfully installed (modified)
Rivarossi's Krauss-Maffei models to
run on SoundTraxx DCC?? I has a few
K-M's that I would really like to run with the rest of my fleet. Any
help would appreciated.
Krauss-Maffei
Posted by Dick on December 31, 2003, 01:59pm
Just wondering, has anyone has successfully installed (modified)
Rivarossi's Krauss-Maffei models to
run on SoundTraxx DCC?? I has a few
K-M's that I would really like to run with the rest of my fleet. Any
help would appreciated.
DCC for Bachman On30 Gas Mechanical
Posted by Larry on December 10, 2003, 01:36pm
I have a Bachman On30 Gas Mechanical Side Rod engine. It is
DCC ready for plug and play. What decoder is the right size and
configured for this locomotive?
Re: DCC for Bachman On30 Gas Mechanical
Posted by Don H. on December 16, 2003, 09:14pm
Do you mean the Shay?
Soundtraxx has a decoder for this:
DSD-B2TSLC - for the Bachmann On30 Two-Truck Shay
Hope this helps.
Lenz LE1014 decoder - speed curve help!
Posted by Jason Shron on December 01, 2003, 05:24am
HI all,
I have three Lenz LE1014 decoders purchased from Tony's. As far
as I can tell, the only way I can adjust the speed of my locomotives
is by making a complex user-defined speed curve.
This is the first decoder I have encountered that doesn't do the work
for me with Vmid and Vmax settings.
Is there a way to set the Vmid and Vmax on the LE1014? I do not
have the time or the software to program a user defined speed curve
- that would seem like a great deal of work when other decoders
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

allow you to use Vmid and Vmax and trial & error to set the speed
curve.
Thanks in advance for the help,
Jason
Re: Lenz LE1014 decoder - speed curve help!
Posted by Don H. on December 01, 2003, 07:39pm
I'm not familiar with that particular decoder but for free software
to help you program decoders you might like to try:
http://jmri.sourceforge.net/index.html
and download DecoderPro.
Re: Lenz LE1014 decoder - speed curve help!
Posted by Bob C on December 03, 2003, 12:07am
CV 80 is the Vmid setting and CV 94 is the Vmax setting.
Re: Re: Lenz LE1014 decoder - speed curve help!
Posted by Fritz on December 03, 2003, 06:59am
...And don`t forget to set up the remainder of 26 speed table
entries!
mrc booster
Posted by jg on November 10, 2003, 09:28am
Will an MRC booster be compatable with a NCE system?
New DCC discussion group
Posted by Peter Ford on September 28, 2003, 07:30pm
This is an invitation to join the Yahoo group DCCforFun. The spirit
of this new DCC forum is to provide answers to DCC users'
questions, for both for new and experienced users. The group is not
company specific
so anyone owning, or thinking of owning a dcc system can ask their
questions there.
To subscribe, go to:
groups/yahoo.com/groups/DCCforFun
DCC is Fun!
Peter Ford
conford4@yahoo.com
DCCforFun owner/moderator
TCS M1 decoder difficulties
Posted by Dick on September 10, 2003, 09:37am
I recently had TCS M1 decoders installed in my Intermountain N
scale FT A&B units. They seem to work just fine with my Digitrax
Empire Builder with DT400 throttle, except for one thing.
When I turn the throttle knob to start the engines I have to get the
speed indicator on the DT400 to #21 before the engines start to
move. After #21 on the throttle they run fine. Is this normal?
I have never had a decoder act this way before.
Is there some setting I could change? I am fairly new at this and
other than programming a loco address I have never fooled with
CV's, so I wouldn't know what to do there.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Re: TCS M1 decoder difficulties
Posted by Bob C on September 10, 2003, 11:59am
You must change CV 2 to a higher value.. Most Decoders have
a range for CV 2 : 0-31 Increase this value accordingly and the
speed of the loco should improve dramatically. You should also
adjust cv 3 which is the accelerate voltage and cv 4 which is the
deceleration of the loco to values greater than 1 to give the the
loco a more prototypical acc. and decel.
No Reverse!
Posted by Matt Bartner on September 09, 2003, 08:40pm
I recently installed a digitrax decoder in an Atlas/Kato RS-3, and
while testing I find that it will run fine foward, but no movement in
reverse. Of course, I didn't test it before installing - anything
obvious that I may have done / missed that would cause this "oneway
loco"?
Thanks - Matt
Re: No Reverse!
Posted by Terry L. on September 10, 2003, 05:45pm
Matt,
Re: No Reverse!
Posted by Terry L. on September 10, 2003, 05:45pm
Matt,
Be certain to also check CV65 (forward trim) and CV94
(reverse trim) to make certain they are both "0". I think these are
unique to Digitrax decoders (?).
I don't know what happened to my first post. Sorry....
Terry L.
Re: No Reverse!
Posted by Don H. on September 10, 2003, 06:27pm
The RS3 would be a hard wired decoder if I remember correctly.
Just wondering if you could update us with which wires you
attached and where. This might help with the debugging.
No Reverse!
Posted by Matt Bartner on September 09, 2003, 08:40pm
I recently installed a digitrax decoder in an Atlas/Kato RS-3, and
while testing I find that it will run fine foward, but no movement in
reverse. Of course, I didn't test it before installing - anything
obvious that I may have done / missed that would cause this "oneway
loco"?
Thanks - Matt
Re: No Reverse!
Posted by Fritz on September 10, 2003, 03:27am
Matt,
Strange, some lister at the Digitrax Yahoo group reported
the same thing, the only difference
being a big delay in speed step response when running in
reverse,
start at about speed step 17, if I`m not mistaken.
Guess, you ask tech support.
Regards,
Fritz
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 19

nce aliasing
Posted by jg on September 09, 2003, 10:55am
will the nce system support aliasing of older 2 digit decoders?
20
Re: nce aliasing
Posted by Booster on September 09, 2003, 12:24pm
On the NCE you can alias by setting up a one loco advanced
consist. When asked for the consist address use the 2 digit
address of the decoder in the engine. When asked for the lead
loco number put in the the 4 digit number you want to use for
the alias.
Lenz stack problem
Posted by Bill Stone on September 02, 2003, 09:01am
Thanks J C I followed your instructions to erase an address from
the stack but my system must be preventing it somehow, it didn't
work and the address still appears when I scroll. I'll contact Debbie.
Great New DCC Help Group
Posted by Lou on September 01, 2003, 10:22pm
We formed a great new DCC help and discussion group at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DCC4ALL
Drop by and visit us. We are an open, unlimited DCC discussion
group without the topic limits that manufacturer-specific groups
suffer from.
We hope to see you there.
Lou..
Re: Great New DCC Help Group
Posted by wayne on September 01, 2003, 10:25pm
I like the file area. it helped me wire my N gauge shelf layout,
good discussion and funny sometimes.
Wayne
nce & mrc compatibility
Posted by j g on August 18, 2003, 10:14pm
will nce procab connect to, and function with mrc rj-12 extension
plates?
Re: nce & mrc compatibility
Posted by John on August 21, 2003, 12:25pm
JG, Absolutely Not. John
Lenz 01 system
Posted by Bill Stone on August 10, 2003, 08:44pm
Last week i spoke with Debbie to set up an mu. she helped but in
doing so i now have a bunch of different addresses taking up space
in the stack i want to eliminate. i follow the instruction book but
can't seem to do the simple things. i operate solo and frustrated. am i
missing something?
bill
Re: Lenz 01 system
Posted by solo sam on August 11, 2003, 06:13pm
yes
Re: Re: Lenz 01 system
Posted by Bill Stone on August 11, 2003, 09:00pm
Solo Sam..OK,what do you suggest?
Bill
Re: Lenz 01 system
Posted by Fritz on August 12, 2003, 05:57am
Bill,
Check page 66 of the LH100 manual.
Re: Lenz 01 system
Posted by Stan on August 13, 2003, 03:17pm
Bill, Why don't you call Debbie back and ask her to take you
through a step by step procedure to clear the system. Stan
Re: Re: Lenz 01 system
Posted by Bill Stone on August 13, 2003, 11:18pm
Thanks Stan and Fritz for your input. Clearing the system
sounds like the way to go, no matter how I attempt to eliminate
addresses it's not working.
Bill
Re: Lenz 01 system
Posted by John on August 14, 2003, 11:28am
Bill, There is the possibility that something may be wrong with
the command station or the handheld. It should work without
you having the problems you seem to have. I also suggest you
call Debbie to check the system. John
Re: Re: Re: Lenz 01 system
Posted by Bob C. on August 14, 2003, 08:40pm
Bill:
Enter E: and then keep clicking (-) until you see the engine # you
want to erase. Then click (cl) followed by the 'enter' key and that
will get rid of the engine # or consist you want to remove.
Bob C.
North Conway 7470
Posted by Dick J. on July 27, 2003, 08:08pm
I am looking for a steam loco and tender, the same as the 0-6-0 that
Conway Scenic Railroad of North Conway NH runs for scenic
rides. It was built in 1912 in Canada.
Re: North Conway 7470
Posted by Norm. on July 31, 2003, 03:47pm
Around 1976, Van Hobbies of Vancouver,BC. imported into
Canada a brass HO scale model of the CNR O-18a class 0-6-0
switcher in the number series: #7424 to #7476.
It was sold under the banner: VH Models Inc.
It is said that some 350 models were made, I can't confirm the
total.
They can pop-up at different times in any well respected hobby
shop or at train shows across Canada.
They can be found at different dealers in the U.S. as well. I've
seen one or two for sale at the West Springfield, Mass. BIG E
annual train Show held in february.
Best of luck.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: North Conway 7470
Posted by Dick on July 31, 2003, 07:37pm
Thank you Norm. I will follow your tips and hopefully I can
find one for my layout.
Re: Re: Re: North Conway 7470
Posted by Norm. on July 31, 2003, 10:58pm
A little more info. on the model itself.
They were made by Samhongsa (Korea)with an open frame
motor. If you find one with a can motor, it's been modified.
Originally, they were considered good runners.
It is possible that some were imported into the U.S. under the
banner of 'Pacific Fast Mail' or better known as PFM . Remember,
I said possible, someone with better documentation could
confirm or deny this as fact.
Norm.
Re: Re: Re: Re: North Conway 7470
Posted by Dick on August 01, 2003, 03:49pm
Thanks Norm. I have been searching the web, including the info
you forwarded to me previously, without much luck. I could
paint my own logo's (CSR) on an 0-6-0 switcher and tender that
replicates 7470, but I am new at this hobby and don't know
which 0-6-0 among the ones I see in catalogs and online are the
best replicates. Any ideas ?
Dick
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: North Conway 7470
Posted by Norm. on August 01, 2003, 10:30pm
Probably the closest approximation would be the Life Like Proto
2000 USRA 0-6-0.
However, the front end, headlight, number boards, bell, dome
placement and even the cab are wrong. As far as the tender is
concerned - no real comparison.
They are similar, but only slightly more than the wheel arrangement.
I'll verify a couple of website addresses and get back to you !
Norm.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: North Conway 7470
Posted by Norm on August 02, 2003, 12:05am
Dick.
Here's a couple of good hobby dealers that usually have a good
supply of older brass. You may be lucky with one or maybe
even both.
Canadian Model Trains
Oakville, Ont.
www.modeltrains.com/
Niagara Central Hobbies
St-Catharines, Ont.
EMAIL: nch@mergetel.com
I have dealt with both in the past - curteous and fast service.
I'm in no way associated with either business other than as a
satisfied customer.
Thanks to TTX, of whom I am also a satisfied customer, for this
forum to share ideas and information.
Best of luck in your search and may your dream come true.
Norm.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: North Conway 7470
Posted by Dick J, on August 10, 2003, 01:55pm
Thanks Norm, I am recovering from Radical Prostate surgery
and just got home late Thursday. I am sure I will have some time
to do some research.
Dick
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: North Conway 7470
Posted by Norm. on August 10, 2003, 03:01pm
Dick,
Wishing you a fast recovery, almost as fast as finding an O18-a.
PS: Candadian Model Trains has one listed on their website
under VH Models - CNR.
Best of luck and get well soon !
Norm.
Athearn Parts
Posted by Stan Stout on July 23, 2003, 09:20am
For Gears Contack [Northwest Short
Line] phone:206-932-1087
or: info@NWSL.com
Other message boards
Posted by Greg on July 22, 2003, 12:01pm
I've been watching/lurking here for a bit, just haven't felt it my place
to chime in yet. Nice board, some great info, nice people, thanks
Tony (who doesn't reads this). Was wondering what other DCC
related bbs's or groups anybody might recommend. I stopped using
bbs and groups years ago, and I am a bit fussy about privacy and
security, but the great information shared may override my paranoia.
Thanks in advance for any comments! Greg
Re: Other message boards
Posted by Ed McCamey on July 23, 2003, 01:20pm
Greg,
Join up on the DCC-SIG list, through links under NMRA, SIG.
The list is not on one of the public e-groups, and is managed out
of a University majordomo program. You won't have any
privacy issues and the data there (though sometimes very
technical) can be very helpful and enlightening.
Re: Re: Other message boards
Posted by Greg on July 24, 2003, 11:57am
Ed,
Thanks much, I'll check it out.
Regards, Greg
Athearn Parts
Posted by Al Babbitt on July 15, 2003, 05:21pm
Please, can anyone suggest good source for Athearn Diesel parts
like gears, hand rails and couple clips? Athearn says they don't like
to do parts orders and I have no real local hobby dealers. Any
suggestions would be appreciated.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 21

22
Re: Athearn Parts
Posted by Ed Wenzinger on July 15, 2003, 09:22pm
Walthers 2003 cat. lists many Athearn parts-- pages 956 thru 960
Re: Re: Athearn Parts
Posted by STAN STOUT on July 21, 2003, 11:20am
FOR GEARS/CONTACK phone 206-932-1087 or
info@NWSL.com
Dirty Track/DCC
Posted by Terry on July 12, 2003, 11:37pm
What I am waiting for is some type of storage system that would
pick up power from the rails and store it for use in the decoders.
Lenz is working on a decoder as we speak. A device that can be
added to exsisting decoders that would store energy for use with all
decoders. That way you will always be abe to move your train. This
would definetly fix all DCC dirty track issues and fix this major
impedence of very slow moving trains. (Is that train REALLY
moving?)
Re: Dirty Track/DCC
Posted by E Bradbury on July 14, 2003, 08:57am
I think you missed something. In simple terms the DCC signal
from the command center is added to and boosted in power from
about 5 volts to 14 volts (HO) by the power station to the tracks
to provide both power and control information to the decoder.
The decoder electronics strips the control signals from track
signal and processes them to control the motor(stop,forward/
reverse rotation), lights on/off, sound, etc. The remainder of the
14 volt signal is processed by the decoder to provide the power
to the motor, light the lights, speaker, etc.
Simply adding an onboard power source will not solve the
problem your stated problem or concern. The decoder still needs
the control signal to tell it what to do - motor go/stop; lights on,
flashing, off; blow the horn, etc.
Re: Dirty Track/DCC
Posted by DonV on July 14, 2003, 12:59pm
Such a system (on board/loco power storage) does exist for G
scale now. It's not DCC but radio control with rechargable
batteries pulled behind the loco. If you couple that with AC on
the tracks to re-charge the batteries while it runs, dirty track
becomes only a minor problem.
Just have plenty of $$ available and anything is possible.
For HO scale having a clean track with good electrical connections
to the loco, including the wheel pick-ups, will always be
important. It is relatively easy to modify the decoder to have
separate storage for operating the uP chip for a long fraction of a
second. (Useful for sound units to keep 'em synchronized) But if
you lose power to the motor, the train still stops.
DonV
Re: Re: Dirty Track/DCC
Posted by Terry on July 22, 2003, 02:51am
Thanks, to both, have much better understanding now but
always have great faith in enginers and glad to be alive in this
time of electronics.
Terry
NCE Service
Posted by Bill Gaver on July 09, 2003, 10:23am
Returned a Cab04 to NCE last week for service. Operated with
cable, but inoperatice in radio mode. Cab04 returned this AM.
Tested,
radio found defective, new radio
module installed at no cost. NCE
is to be commended for their
prompt service and professionalism.
Bill Gaver
Brookfield, NH
Re: NCE Service
Posted by Jim de Bree on July 29, 2003, 06:42pm
I had a similar experience with NCE. They are great folks!
Lenz & Atlas
Posted by John on June 24, 2003, 12:43pm
Bob, I'm sorry you think I'm a shill, that's not so. I was making
some valid coments and asking questions based on my own
personal experience. I did not expect those coments to be turned
into negative statements about me. This all came about because I
suggested that Kerry call Lenz to be sure everything he wanted to
do will work OK. After this, you can be sure I will not be posting
any more messages. I thought it was possible to state an opinion
without being called names. By the way, I did call Lenz and sent
them an email to. John
Re: Lenz & Atlas
Posted by Another Bob on July 06, 2003, 11:21pm
John,
After reading this entire thread it is obvious you have a secret
agenda - to cause trouble for Lenz.
Your off the wall claims and outright refusal to speak with a
Lenz support person is evidence that you sabotaged Lenz efforts
to help you - probably because you have a phoney "problem" to
begin with.
Please don't waste everybody's time with your stupid games in
the future.
Another Bob
Re: Re: Lenz & Atlas
Posted by Dave on July 07, 2003, 05:52pm
Bob, another Bob, & others,
It's this kind of "crap" that keeps me from answering questions
of those in need. IMHO, John was just trying to help someone
with a question, and you guys blasted him. Was it because he
uses NCE? Do you say the same things about Digitrax users?
Wangro users? etc.
I have used most of the available DCC systems without any
terrible problems. I don't prefer some of the systems simply
because the feel of the throttle doesn't suit me. That's no reason
to blast them!
Dave
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

(7+ years experience with DCC)
Re: Re: Lenz & Atlas, part 2
Posted by Dave on July 07, 2003, 06:10pm
Bob, another Bob, & others
(continued)
I prefer Digitrax and the last time I said this on this BBS, I was
blasted by many. I was called stupid and told that I obviously
had not used "x brand", which I had used many times but so be
it. If those of you that feel threatned everytime someone makes a
comment about "your" system must make a comment, say it to
yourself. I'm sure the rest of don't care to hear it or the bickering
that seems to follow for weeks if not months.
We must all accept the opinions of others and have fun, not word
wars with our hobby. There, I've said my peace. If you must,
blast away! My opinion is still my opinion and will remain so!
Dave
(7+ years experience with DCC)
Re: Re: Lenz & Atlas
Posted by Stan on July 12, 2003, 11:47am
Enough is Enough Guy's. I feel sorry for the guy who suggested
that someone call Lenz to check for compatability of Atlas and
Lenz. I also feel sory for the guy who asked the question about
it. This has turned into a name calling kind of thing and now has
religion broght into it. Everyone of us feels our DCC systems
are the best, when someone has a different opinion, that's no
reason to blast that person with derogatory remarks. Opinions
are like rear ends, we all have one. Stan
Re: Re: Lenz & Atlas
Posted by Another John on July 30, 2003, 11:06am
Another Bob, I also read the entire tread you referred to and
found nothing in it to prompt the kind of name calling response
you directed to this individual, everything was an opinion or
question on his part. I wonder if you have a secret agenda
prompting you to become so defensive. There wasn't anything
John said that was incorrect and even if there was, so what,
that's his opinion. He didn't call anyone names like you did. Try
to be a little more respectfull of others and their opinions. I
guess I'll get blasted because of my coment, if you need to, Blast
away.
Another John
Re: Lenz & Atlas
Posted by Another Bob on July 30, 2003, 09:28pm
You only read this thread, not the most annoying previous
thread. I won't blast away. I respect your right to disagree with
me on this.
Re: Re: Lenz & Atlas
Posted by Another John on July 31, 2003, 10:21am
Another Bob, I had gone back and read from the first part where
he said to call Lenz to see if these things would work with each
other, he even said, they probably would. His coments were
accurate as far as I could tell. The main point I'm trying to
convey is, we all have opinions about our systems and it's not
fair to make someone afraid to state an opinion for fear of being
pounced on. Another John
N Scale track cleaner
Posted by Terry on June 24, 2003, 09:02am
Does anyone know who makes a good N Scale track cleaning car.
I'm into HO scale myself and just started operating with an N Scale
group who's track needs some attention. They didn't seen to know
what was available for track cleaning purposes except for a
Brightboy track cleaner. Thanks for any help.
Re: N Scale track cleaner
Posted by Don H. on June 24, 2003, 07:13pm
Try:
http://www.aztectrains.com/
http://www.centerline-products.com/
and... oh yea... I think Tony's might have a cleaning car as well. I
seem to remember that I go right past a picture of one in order to
get to this message board.
P.S. typing "track cleaning car" in Google's search engine got me
700+ hits.
Re: Re: N Scale track cleaner
Posted by Terry on June 26, 2003, 11:01pm
Don H. Thanks for the info. I ordered one from Centerline
Products. I use Tony's track cleaner car on my HO railroad, I
wish he would offer one for N scale, it's the best cleaner car I've
ever used.
Terry
Re: Re: Re: N Scale track cleaner
Posted by Jacques W. Lajoie on June 27, 2003, 09:27am
Terry, if you take a look at Tony's site you will see the the
cleaning machine is available in "N"
DCC and HO Unitrack Turnout Question
Posted by BillD on June 09, 2003, 08:01pm
Hi folks,
Would someone be good enough to explain Power/Non Power
Routing on turnouts? I'm confused about what this does and which
way is better in DCC. The turnourts are Kato HO Unitrack, and are
selectable for either...
Thanks!
Union Pacific
Posted by Greg Gootee on June 03, 2003, 01:34pm
Does anyone know what type of engine UP uses in switch yards? I
do not see UP name for the Proto 2000 SW8.
Re: Union Pacific
Posted by Fritz on June 04, 2003, 07:25am
Greg,
try this link:
http://www.utahrails.net/webpubs/up-switchers.htm
Regards,
Fritz
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 23

Lens and Atlas
Posted by Kerry on June 02, 2003, 12:29pm
I have the Atlas system, and want to add a handheld, and eventually
4 digit addressing. Will the new Lenz LH90 handheld work with
my Atlas commander until I can upgrade to a full Lenz system, and
if so, what issues are there?
Also the LH100 says "programming" and the LH90 does not. How
do you program if you have the set-90?
One more, could I use the Atlas commander in slave mode as a
throttle on the lenz system, and if so would it support 4 digit
addressing.
Thanks.
24
Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by John on June 06, 2003, 09:52am
Kerry, Lenz has been known to have some compatibility issues
in their own systems depending upon the software versions used
in various items. You should call Debbie Ames at Lenz and tell
her what you want to do to see if these items are compatible,
most likely they will be but it's better not to be surprised, these
things do not occur with NCE and Digitrax. John
Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by Debbie Ames on June 06, 2003, 04:31pm
Kerry
The LH90 is an excellent addition to your Atlas System. It has a
different user interface then the Atlas HandCommand which has
the identical user interface as your Commander.
XpressNet is a fully distributed system. The feature set available
will be controlled by the capabilities of your system and the
capabilities of the handheld. Thus when used with a Commander
that only supports 2 digit addressing, you will still only have 2
digit addressing with your LH90. When a Commander is used
on a Set-90 or Set-100 system it will still only have two digit
addressing as its user interface does not support 4 digit
addressing.
As long as the handheld you choose says XpressNet it will be
compatible. XpressNet is supported by a growing number of
manufacturers. If the handheld is not XpressNet compatible it
will not work with your Commander.
Hope that helps.
Debbie
Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by Debbie Ames on June 06, 2003, 04:37pm
John
Your message is confusing to us.
I have no idea what problems you are referring to. Could you
perhaps provide more details? We want to get any problem you
are having corrected as quickly as possible!!! Please email or call
and we will get right on it.
Our new systems currently support all the versions of Digital
plus handhelds we have ever produced and our handhelds can be
used on any Digital plus system we have ever produced.
Our XpressNet distributed network is very powerful. That is
why so many different user interfaces can be supported by so
many different manufacturers.
Please let us know the problems you are having so we can get
them corrected.
Debbie
Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by Ed McCamey on June 06, 2003, 07:07pm
John, Kerry was talking about mixing components from two
different systems (albeit both Lenz based). I beg to differ on the
comment that these things don't happen with NCE and Digitrax.
Both have shown some "compatiblity" problems with differing
decoders from a variety of other manufactures in the past, and
each has it's own "folibles". Besides, I don't think that "mixing
and matching" system components would be any better with
either of these systems without some real heartache!
-ed mccamey-
Re: Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by John on June 09, 2003, 12:20pm
Ed & Debbie, Kerry was asking about the use of Atlas and Lenz
Handhelds with each other, some support 2 digit and some
support 4 digit, I simply suggested he call Debbie to confirm
what he wanted to do before spending his money only to find it
might not be what he wants, I dont remember decoders being an
issue. Compatability, some lenz LH200 handhelds used in the
Set 02/4 had a different software than others and required an
upgrade to have them compatable with each other. As far as
accessories, Digitrax and NCE components, to the best of my
knoweledge have never had this issue in their accessory line.
Concerning decoders, any 128 step decoder should work with
any 128 step system. John
Re: Re: Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by Debbie Ames on June 10, 2003, 08:30am
John
The architectures and approaches to system upgrades are
different from manufacturer to manufacturer. We try to maintain
the userâ s investment in our products by releasing software
updates. We view this as a significant advantage of our product
line.
For example in 1993 our LH100 only supported 14 speed steps,
and 99 addresses. Through a series of upgrades the LH100 is
now one of the most advanced handhelds in the market. Others
do the same thing by releasing new product rather than upgrading
the older product, it simply a different marketing approach.
And yes sometimes we have an error in our product and release
a software update. For the LH200s it was not an issue of
compatibility, it was an issue of a bug in one of the features in
the LH200 that was corrected by a software upgrade. Unfortunately
bugs do occur and each of the manufacturers does a pretty
good job of correcting them. We are simply more outgoing to
admit the bugs than others.
Debbie
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by John on June 10, 2003, 10:53am
Debbie, Will an LH100 throttle plug into a Set 02/4 and opreate
it? In trying to assist Kerry by suggesting he call you to confirm
that what he wants to do will work, I seem to have unintention-
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

ally created a controversy which was not intended. Your
comment about other manufacturers not being up front about
Bugs is totally untrue. I still suggest that Kerry call you and ask
the pertinant questions. John
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by Debbie Ames on June 10, 2003, 01:40pm
John
You appear to have a problem which we would like to help solve
but the 1000 character limit on this message board plus the time
to pass messages back and forth limits the amount of information
I can provide. Why not email me your phone number and I
will give you a phone call and help you clear up the problem you
are having.
The Set-02 only supports a limited number of XpressNet
addresses. The LH100 supports the full range of addresses. If
the LH100 address is within the set supported by Set-02 it
should just plug in and work with no problems. If it does not
then the wiring on the XpressNet is likely not correct.
I can be reached at 978-250-1494 or at suport@lenz.com.
Debbie
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by John on June 19, 2003, 01:43pm
Debbie, I'm glad I called two people who sell lenz before I
bought the LH100. They told me it won't work by itself with the
set02 and I would need to buy one extra Atlas panel to plug into.
Then both hand units want to be the command station so I need
to change some wires. I am staying with the set02 as it is or go
with something else. thanks John
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by Debbie Ames on June 22, 2003, 03:17pm
John
Are you a Set-02 user?
I ask because the information you received on the LH100 and
Set-02 is not correct. We would be most pleased to assist you if
you would contact us directly. Call us or send us your phone
number and I would be glad to call you and help clear up your
confusion and explain the options to you.
For example: The LH100 does not have command station
software so it can not be the command station and thus no wires
need to be changed..
With most command stations when you want to add handhelds
you need to install a simple network for the handhelds to plug
into.
With the Set-02, you need a splitter ($2.50) and then you install
DIN plugs ($1.00 ea) or one or more panel connectors around
your layout. Then simply plug your LH100 into the network you
just installed and run trains. Its that simple.
Please contact us. We want to provide you the support you need.
Debbie
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Lens and Atlas
Posted by John on June 23, 2003, 01:29pm
Debbie, in an earlier message, I asked you if the LH100
handheld would plug into my set 02/4 and operate it, you said
yes it would. The dealers I talked to said it would not, you now
say it won't because the LH100 does not have command station
software. This is too confusing for me. I solved the problem, I
now have a Powerhouse. Thanks for your help. John
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Lens and A
Posted by Bob on June 23, 2003, 08:08pm
John
I do not get it. Are you a shill?You ack like a dealer or someone
intentionally trying to pick on Lenz since you continuously post
false information about their products and appear not to care
about what the real information is.
If you really wanted support or had a real question I think you
would have actually contacted Lenz rather then first trying to
maskerade as a Lenz user and now a NCE user. BTW I have a
Set-02 and when my friend came over with his LH100 he just
plugged it it and had none of the problems you report.
Debbie
Do not let bad eggs keep you from helping us out here when we
need it.
Bob
Computer Control
Posted by JohnW on June 02, 2003, 06:47am
Would like to be able to control my layout automatically with a
computer, so my grandchildren can "run" the trains. They are only 4
and 5 years old. I plan to give them a throttle that is connected to
nothing but they won't know. So, having read about several
systems. I am wondering if they are capable of doing what I want. I
have read about Winloc and TrainController, they seem to be the
most powerful. But will they do what I need. Any help will be
greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
JohnW in Pittsburgh
Re: Computer Control
Posted by DonV on June 04, 2003, 03:29pm
You certainly don't need to computerize or automate the whole
layout to please the younsters. My 6 year old daughter has been
delighted to make the trains move around the layout loop,
starting and stopping on her command from age 3. You do need
to ensure that the track is always clear with turnouts thrown (or
automatic) for continuous running. Finding a way to limit the
speed is also necessary...an easy step if you have DCC. Limited
speed with good track and rolling stock conditions are key to
keep their attention. Let their imagination take over and soon
they will be stopping for fuel, feeding the cattle, or taking on
new passengers. By age 5 or 6 the concept of spacing the trains
and not letting them crash allows Dad to run one once in a while
too, but only after I bought her her own cab throttle! [Just keep
the E-Stop button handy]
DonV
Re: Re: Computer Control
Posted by Terry on July 12, 2003, 11:20pm
I have shown children from age two to run the
digitrax system. ie; age two, blow horn and whistle. age four to
five, start and stop trains and control speed. I am a bit slow but
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 25

26
the kids seem to pick this stuff (computers, electronics) up faster
then some older folks (me).
DCC Track Plan Review
Posted by Layer 3 Switch on May 31, 2003, 10:40pm
Hi folks,
I would really appreciate any feedback on the best way to wire the
track plan shown in this link for DCC. I have a Digitrax system I
bought from Tony's
http://community.webshots.com/user/layer3switch
Scale is HO, and the track is Kato Unitrack.
Min Radius is 28", mainline is 31". Turnouts are #6
Thanks!
Re: DCC Track Plan Review
Posted by ed mccamey on June 01, 2003, 06:52pm
Good news - you don't have a reversing loop. I'd recommend
you break it up into about 4 power sections using TTX Power
Shield units. Use a #16 or larger bus wire from the boooster to
the PS units and #18 wire along the main lines route from each
PS unit. Make certain to issolate with double gaps the different
power sections. Drop some #22 wires soldered to the rails about
every 3 feet and connect to the #18b sub-bus lines. Be sure to
have a buzzer connected accross the rails to get the poliarity right
each time.
Re: Re: DCC Track Plan Review
Posted by Layer 3 Switch on June 04, 2003, 05:47pm
Thanks Ed...
Computer Control
Posted by JohnW on May 31, 2003, 08:37am
Which software; Winloc or TrainController, has the least "BUGS"
in it? Also, which preforms the "best"? Which has the most options
and on-screen layout.
Thanks,
JohnW
Broadway Limited Hudson Issues
Posted by Mike Chapman on May 21, 2003, 08:14am
Has anyone out there had problems with their Broadway Limited
Hudson? Mine has exhibited numerous quirks, including random
whistle and bell actuation; having the engine suddenly stop
responding altogether to throttle commands; accelerating properly
but not decelerating, and occasional runaways. All this on NCE and
Digitrax DCC systems. I have heard that "everyone has a Broadway
story", and if you have one too, I'd love to hear it, so I don't think
I'm going crazy.
--Mike Chapman
michael.b.chapman@verizon.net
Re: Broadway Limited Hudson Issues
Posted by TERRY on May 22, 2003, 07:16pm
Mike, My friend experienced the same problems with his loco. It
now runs like a swiss watch. There's something in the manual
that explains how to return the electronics back to the Factory
settings if the engine acts strange. It think it was a pin or plug
that had to be pulled and then reinserted on the electronic board,
it was months ago and I forgot just what we did but it worked.
Let me know what happens.
Re: Re: Broadway Limited Hudson Issues
Posted by Dennis Lippert on June 20, 2003, 10:50am
My first Hudson was perfect... the second one (sans-serif
lettering) is flakey in the same manner that you discuss. I'm
gonna try the reset thing... otherwise (as soon as I get a chance!),
I'm gonna contact Broadway...
Re: Re: Re: Broadway Limited Hudson Issues
Posted by Allen on August 31, 2004, 05:02pm
My dad bought two Mikado's from them. One has the same
problem you are descibing. Have you talked to Broadway
limited on this b/c we haven't yet. We are using an easydcc
system by CVP.
NCE 1/2 Antenna
Posted by Bill Dwyer on May 15, 2003, 08:31pm
I have just installed the new half wave antennas on my radio base
station and on two ProCabs with EXCELLENT results. With the
old quarter wave antennas I had radio drop outs when my back was
to the base station and also experienced trouble with loco selection
and other cab commands. Also the lag time and the need to very
carefully push the keys was annoying.
With the new antennas there are no drop outs no matter where I am
in my train room, and key response including loco selection is as if
I was still plugged in to the command station!!!
For additional information see my report on the Yahoo NCE-DCC
group list message #10059.
Bill Dwyer
Diablo Valley Lines
Western Division
Alameda, California
Still 1957
Lenz
Posted by Stan on May 08, 2003, 11:54am
Loy's Web say's thier closing out Lenz products, some others said
they're doing the same thing, does anyone know why? Stan
NEW NCE WIRELESS ANTENNA
Posted by TERRY on May 07, 2003, 11:02pm
I see that NCE has released a high gain antenna for their wireless
radio system. Does anyone know it this produces a stronger signal
or does it produce a longer range signal or both. Thanks for any
help !!
Re: NEW NCE WIRELESS ANTENNA
Posted by Dennis Lippert on May 08, 2003, 10:17am
Posts on the NCE-DCC list on YahooGroups have indicated that
Jim's testing shows a marked improvement in most situations.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

The new antenna is higher gain... so it radiates a stronger signal,
and receives a weaker signal. The pattern of radiation is also
different.
As it turns out, the original NCE radio system was VERY
conservative, due to concerns of violating FCC rules. The new
antenna allows a stronger signal, while still staying within FCC
limits.
Re: Re: NEW NCE WIRELESS ANTENNA
Posted by Bob Miller on May 22, 2003, 08:00pm
I have installed four of the new antenna, left the old antenna on
the base which hangs upside down on the railroad from the
ceiling and the operations are vastly improved. Have 10 more
antenna coming from Tony which will equip all my cabs, and I
will then try one on the base to see if it improves things even
more.
Bob
Re: Re: Re: NEW NCE WIRELESS ANTENNA
Posted by DonV on May 23, 2003, 04:57pm
I had about the same experience as Bob Miller. Putting a high
gain antenna on the cab made a world of difference. Little further
improvement was had by replacing the old antenna on the base
station (with pie-plate ground plane) with the new high gain
model. I don't mind paying for an improvement to an existing
product, but I certainly expect that the next cab I purchase
includes the new high gain antenna, rather than the old one.
DonV
DCC Recommendation
Posted by foretrain on April 25, 2003, 09:51pm
I'm building a S scale layout in my basement. Initial module
contains three(3) reverse loops. I want to run the module using
DCC. As you know, S scale engines are AC. Locomotives are
American Flyer, SHS(SW-9 and F-3, both with dummy plugs for
decoders) and American Models. I would appreciate your recommendations
for an appropriate DCC system(throttle, command
station, booster) which would support AC. DCC system should be
expandable for additional power stations. Sound decoder support
desirable. Can you also recommend appropriate decoders for the
SHS engines.
Thanks,
Foretrain
Re: DCC Recommendation
Posted by Allen on August 31, 2004, 05:04pm
I would recommend an Easydcc system from CVP. It is the best
system out there, and a great value. It works with all decoders.
www.cvpusa.com
AHM/Rivarossi
Posted by John Barber on April 25, 2003, 03:19pm
A short time time ago I purchaced a trunk full of O scale AHM/
Rivarossi steam engine kits and motorizing sets. Only problem is
that half the kits and motorizing kits don't match. Any idea who still
sells the the motorizing sets or plasitic engine kits for these O scale
O-8-O, 4-4-0 or 2-6-0 egnines??
Digitrax lights do not work
Posted by Paul West on April 22, 2003, 05:46pm
I have digitrax board decoders DN163AO, DN146 and DN147.
The engines all run fine. However, I can not get the lights to work. I
am using a PR1 to program the decoders. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Paul West
Atlas Sound
Posted by Dave Smith on April 15, 2003, 01:35pm
In Tony's "Comparison DCC Systems" what is meant when Atlas
sound capability is listed as "partial"? I'm just starting in On30
(bought the B-mann Shay with Soundtraxx decoder) and plan to
build a small (2by4 foot)layout. I figure that this is a good time to
try out DCC. Mainly I look at DCC as a way to be able to "play"
the Shay whistle and bell "real time".Am I wasting my money by
going to DCC for this ability? One last question, does the Atlas
system have that EMF thing? I understand that helps control locos
on steep grades (which this layout most definitely will have). Gee, I
hate being a newbie again! LOL
Re: Atlas Sound
Posted by David on April 20, 2003, 06:31pm
[what is meant when Atlas sound capability is listed as "partial"?
]
This address the capability to access the functions that control
the different sounds. The Soundtrax decoders will work on any
NMRA DCC layout but your DCC system must be able to
access all of the functions. The Atlas system does not. I would
recommend a Digitrax system instead.
[Am I wasting my money by going to DCC for this ability?]
I don't think so.
[One last question, does the Atlas system have that EMF thing?]
The 'EMF thing' is a decoder 'thing' not a command station
'thing'. If your decoder is has EMF then it will work no matter
what DCC system you buy.
[I understand that helps control locos on steep grades (which
this layout most definitely will have]
I helps to eliminate the surging that occurs in some locomotives
when going down hill. Some refer to it as cruise control.
David
MRC Prodigy
Posted by Jim D. on April 10, 2003, 11:47am
I've seen in a few places (including this board) that the MRC
Prodigy system has speed control problems with decoders other
than its own brand. However, the MRC Web site claims Prodigy
works with all brand decoders (OK, that's not unbiased), and a
review of the system I found by Bob Hayden says he experienced
no problems when operating Prodigy with locos equipped with
NCE, Digitrax and SoundTraxx decoders, among others, and he
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 27

mentions no upgrade or patch that I've seen mentioned elsewhere.
So, just what is correct?
28
Re: MRC Prodigy
Posted by John on April 15, 2003, 10:29am
Jim D. MRC offers a voltage limiter free of charge to allow you
to operate the Prodigy with decoders other than MRC decoders.
The Prodigy is not built to NMRA standards so you will need
this limiter to utilize other decoders. John
Deceiving DCC
Posted by Alain Boudreau on April 10, 2003, 12:13am
My HO layout is 8 x 15 feet around the room. Motive power is
provided by 6 unit consisting of Proto 1000, Proto 2000, Walthers
and Spectrum units. I choose MRC Command 2000 system for it is
sufficient for my layout, it is affordable and MRC products are
usually reliable. I started installing decoders in a proto 1000 and in a
proto 2000 loco. For the Proto 2000 the results were acceptable but
for the proto 1000, it was impossible to come to an acceptable level
of perfomance, after may attempts to program the decoder and
installing a second decoder. Tracks and wheels were all clened up. It
stopped the process of installing decoder in other units and disabled
the locos already converted and return to conventional DC power. I
use a MRC power pack fixed DC power as power supply for the
system. I am wondering what is my problem? The whole system,
the console, the decoders, the only decoder in the proto 1000 loco,
the proto 1000 loco, the power source? The programming device?.
Any idea?
Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by Paul on April 10, 2003, 10:13am
Alain, why don't you call the place you bought the MRC set
from and ask them for advice about problems you're having,
they should be able to help you. Paul
Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by Don H. on April 10, 2003, 11:22am
Alain, I'm a little surprised that you would totally abandon DCC
and convert back to DC simply because you had a problem with
1 loco. What, exactly, do you mean by unacceptable performance?
That could mean different things to different people.
Does the loco run ok under DC? Installing a decoder will NOT
"fix" performance problems. If, as you indicated, you had 1 loco
that ran fine under DCC then it would seem that there are no
problems with the command station / power supply etc. The
problem appears to be at the loco / decoder level. Have you tried
a different decoder? Have you tried the original decoder in a
different loco?
Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by e bradbury on April 10, 2003, 12:01pm
do you operate with all 6 units together to get up a steep grade?
If so then the two decodered locos will still not pull the load up
the grade that had required 6. Are you operating the two DCC
locos with DC locos? not good. By the way is the track clean?
By the way I just complete installing decoders into 3 Proto 1000
F3A/B and run them together without a problem. I removed the
light board & replaced it with a styrene shelve to support the
decoder (NCE DASRs) and removed & used the 300 ohm
resistor in series with headlight. For this installation insulate the
frame in the decoder area; the DASR is shorter & narrower then
the light board.
Re: Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by Alain Boudreau on April 11, 2003, 08:49am
Additionnal information:
The tracks were cleaned up. Only one or two locos were
opertating at the same time
The perfomance of the C-Liner Proto 1000 were very good
when operating in DC. With the decoders, two different were
used, acceleration and decelaration were very long and even with
dirrent attemps to program someting different, the loco is not
usable to switch. For the Proto 2000, the perfomance are
acceptable, but this loco perform better on DC.
Re: Re: Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by e bradbury on April 11, 2003, 10:05am
It appears that CV 3 and CV 4 have been set to a very high value
somehow. These should be set to "0" (zero) to begin with and
can be changed later. What decoders are you using.
Also some decoders and command stations (CS) require a load,
such as a resistor, to be placed between the CS and decoder. (I
have this problem with just soundtraxx decoders. A resistor isn't
needed for programming my NCE & Lenz decoders). This may
be the case with you. I think digitrax and some command
stations have this problem. Also when programming the
decoders on the program track be sure the locos lights are off; if
they are on they may trick the programming.
Also check some of the earlier discussions on Tony's BB or his
Tips for info. I think a similar was noted in the past.
Re: Re: Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by e bradbury on April 11, 2003, 11:47am
Alien see December 20, 2002 discussion
Re: Re: Re: Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by Alain Boudreau on April 11, 2003, 08:19pm
Thanks to E BRADBURY for you interest in my problem.
Both decoders used in the Proto 1000 C Liner have been
programmed to a minimum value for acceleration, decelaraation
and start voltage. Many many attempts to try to achieve a level ef
acceotable perfomance. I use MRC decoders programmable 28
or 14 step. These were purchased from a mail order shop, there
is no delaer in my area supproting these products.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by Dennis Lippert on April 24, 2003, 03:00pm
I'll bet there are references to this on the board somewhere...
but...
Your problems are likely related more to the LOCO than to the
decoder.
Life-Like (P1k and P2k) 4-axle locos have a known tendency to
have electrical pickup problems. These are "exaggerated" in
DCC, for a number of reasons, but still exist with DC.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

I've seen a great number of potential fixes around the 'net... I
have yet to see one that gives good enough results for me. For
now, the P2k locos just sit and look pretty. Katos, Atlases, etc do
the running on my trains!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Deceiving DCC
Posted by Alain Boudreau on February 07, 2004, 06:39am
According to a service representative from MRC, COMMAND
2000 should be used with a 18VAC 3.5 AMP power source
contrairly to what it is specified in the instruction brochure
coming with the console (PAGE 1 - Command 2000 needs AC
or DC poser supply to operate. Input voltage must be 14-18
volts for HO/N gauge and.....)
With a 3.5 amp 18VAC transformer, every loco run well.
Led Resistors
Posted by John on April 09, 2003, 03:24pm
I have found that a 1K 1/4 watt resistor will work with virtually all
Led's from N scale to O-G Scale. Led's usually operate from 1.5 to
3 volts, the 1k resistor will cover that range and you will not burn
out the led. John
nce version #
Posted by Kenny on March 29, 2003, 11:28pm
Please help me get the software version of my north coast engineering
system.
Thanks,
Ken
Wiring turnouts in succession
Posted by Dick on March 12, 2003, 12:56pm
Where do you drop the feeders to turnouts that are connected
together. I have a yard lead track that has 7 turnouts that are just
connected together.
Where should I connect the feeders for these turnouts?
Do I solder the feeders directly to the turnouts ?
Do I solder the feeders to the track that leads in to the turnouts at
each end? OR WHAT?
I am using Peco insulfrogs, code 80, N scale, with Digitrax Super
Empire Builder DCC.
Re: Wiring turnouts in succession
Posted by Don H. on March 13, 2003, 12:09am
Well, I'm no expert but this is what I did for our club and we are
using the same turnouts and we run DCC as well.
I dropped a pair of feeder wires in front of the points of each
turnout and connected all of these together under the layout (ie:
all left rails connected together and all right rails connected
together). I used metal rail joiners when going from one turnout
to the next turnout and plastic rail joiners on the connection to
the "Yard" track leading off of each turnout. I dropped a set of
separate feeder wires from each of those yard tracks. We decided
to put in DPDT toggle switches on each yard track in order to
turn the power on or off to each track as we wished. I don't like
to depend on the turnout points to route power.
Kellor CTC-80 System For Sale
Posted by Jim on March 09, 2003, 01:35pm
Have a complete CTC-80 system available. Condition is used and
was operating when removed from layout. Some components new.
Will only sell as complete unit. Contact me at okjim@msn.com for
list and details.
Wired track joiners
Posted by Jim Stone on March 03, 2003, 06:30pm
In a recent message a fellow referred to "wired track joiners". Are
these pre-soldered railjoiners with a wire attached for DCC use?
Where does one get these?
Re: Wired track joiners
Posted by e bradbury on March 04, 2003, 08:13am
Yes they are rail joiner with pre-attached wires made by Atlas for
DC & DCC
Re: Wired track joiners
Posted by Terry on March 07, 2003, 10:45am
The terminal joiners that you are asking about are available from
Trainworld (1-800-541-7010) Item #842. They work real nice.
LED resistors
Posted by Mel Moore on February 24, 2003, 06:37pm
I would like to install white LEDS as headlights in all of my
decoder equiped engines. I would like to know how to calculate the
values of the resistors that are needed to drop the voltage from the
function leads down to a usable level.
Thanks for any help offered.
Mel Moore
Re: LED resistors
Posted by Ed McCamey on February 25, 2003, 08:23am
Mel,
Go to this site:
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/CircuitIndex.html
see especially:
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/LEDcalc.html
Lots of good stuff here.
-ed mccamey-
AKA: emccamey@coslar.us
home page: http://www.coslar.us/
Re: Re: LED resistors
Posted by Mel Moore on February 27, 2003, 04:08pm
Ed, Thanks. I'll check it out.
Mel
Re: LED resistors
Posted by Bob on April 08, 2003, 08:40am
The resistance depends on the voltage input (N:12, HO:14,
G:16?)
Ohm's law, E=IR cannot be violated!
E=IR so R = E/I. Most white leds work nicely drawing about 20
milliamps (.020 amps) Soooo. Back to R=E/I : R = 14 volts /
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 29

30
.020 amps or about 700 Ohms for HO, 12/.020 or about 600
Ohms for N.
In actuality, I had 680 Ohm 1/4 watt resistors, so that's what I
use.
power problem
Posted by tony moscatello on February 20, 2003, 04:39pm
i have the power house pro 5 amp.....every once or twice around the
layout all engines stop and all 16v lights go out for about 3 or 4
seconds and then resume. i checked all power connectors and they
seem ok...any ideas...thanks tony
Re: power problem
Posted by Don H on February 20, 2003, 05:35pm
I'm not familiar with that particular system but the symptoms
your describing sound like some sort of thermal overload
protector kicking in.
Does you manual explain how to check for something like that?
What size of power bus wire are you using and how long is
your bus wire?
Do things work ok when you only have 1 loco on the track?
Re: Re: power problem
Posted by tony moscatello on February 21, 2003, 05:39pm
DON...I HAVE ABOUT 38 FEET OF 14 GUAGE WIRE AND
16V AC SOURCE WHICH ARE BOTH RECOMMENDED
IN MANUAL. I DID FIND THE MENTION OF A 2 OR 3
SECOND POWER LOSS. IT SAYS THAT THIS WILL
HAPPEN ONLY IF THE POWER SOURCE IS NOT
SUPPLYING ENOUGH VOLTS (THE RECOMMENDED
RANGE IS 14 TO 18 AC ) MINE IS 16V FIXED. AND IT
HAPPENS IF 1 OR MORE LOCOS ARE RUNNING..I AM
ALSO USING THE WIRED TRACK JOINERS BUT I HAVE
MANY OF THEM WIRE TO THE BUS THROUGHOUT
LAYOUT.....THANKS TONY
Re: power problem
Posted by DonV on February 24, 2003, 12:59pm
The 16 V power source may be drooping below 16V under load.
Put a volt meter on the power source. Monitor the booster/
controller input voltage as unit operation becomes erratic.
If the input doesn't stay above 16 V, you need a more powerful
transformer or DC power source. (More amps, not volts)
Viscous Rumors #2
Posted by John on February 20, 2003, 10:04am
My message posted by itself before I was finished, ( It should
finish by saying ). Because of the high demand for DCC products,
all DCC manufacturers are having problems keeping up with the
massive request for products. Dealers who do not stock or pay, then
expect their order to come the next day, are going to wait for some
time. I hope these types of Rumors stop soon because this is so
unfair to the manufacturers, how would someone like this to be said
about them. John
Viscous Rumors
Posted by John on February 20, 2003, 09:44am
In the last year there have been a number of viscous rumors directed
at various DCC manufacturers as to having financial problems. We
now have another rumor floating around about another DCC
manufacturer having this problem. As a stocking dealer of the major
brands of DCC products, I can say, these rumors are totally untrue.
Rumors like this are usually started by a dealer who does not pay
their bills and are looking for a way to cover themselves when their
customer keeps asking where their order is. This type of dealer has
probably been shut off by the Manufacturer or put on a prepay
basis. It's unfortunate that some people resort to this type of
practice.Because of
dual speakers
Posted by tom on February 18, 2003, 03:02pm
i was looking at loco sound installs and they mention using dual
speakers. how is this done?is there a special setup to fit them
together or do they come that way?
No Light Function
Posted by Mike on February 15, 2003, 06:44pm
I have an older Lenz 103 decoder. The headlight function (0) is not
working. I haven't used the engine in awhile and I reprogramed the
address. The lights came on for a little while after I ran the engine.
Now they don't work. The bulbs are good. I don't have voltage at
the decoder. Is there some program reason for this or is the decoder
failing? Thanks for any help.
P2k GP30-Atlas Decoder
Posted by Jay Williams on February 15, 2003, 05:09pm
I'm new to DCC and thanks to your help, my wife bought me the
Atlas system for Christmas. I have a P2K GP30 and am trying to
install an Atlas dual mode decoder. My biggest question is what to
do with the wire that is screwed to the weight. I know this needs to
find a home, which lug? What else should I be aware of with this
installation? Thanks.
globe steam railfan excursions
Posted by Peter on February 13, 2003, 05:56pm
Hello, I would like to introduce globe steam: globe steam is a
leading touroperator for railfan excursions to the last strongholds of
real steam: we visit China, Cuba, Zimbabwe, India, North-Korea,
Kenya, Wales, South-America and many countries more. Small
groups and professionally organized trips guarantee your satisfaction.
Visit our website http://www.globesteam.com
Thx, Peter
p2k resistor
Posted by fred on February 13, 2003, 09:23am
what value resistor is needed inline with the headlight? thanks.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

N gague 30' Diamond x'ing
Posted by Rod on February 13, 2003, 05:15am
I run N gague DCC on Peco flextrack,the standard diamond x'ing
angle is less than I need. To get a section to look right I am looking
for a diamond crossing that has a 30 degree angle and could be
made DCC friendly with some work. My local shop is no help. Has
anyone got any experience or recommendation with a brandname
product?
Loconet voltage drop?
Posted by Dick on February 03, 2003, 10:09am
I'm using a DT 400 Digitrax throttle in Nscale with a Super Empire
Builder. The DT400 gives a quick voltage readout when the system
is first turned on. If my throttle is plugged right into the command
station i get one reading. If I plug into a UP5 panel jack which is
connected to the command station with the 2 foot long cable
supplied with the system I get a voltage drop. If I plug the DT400
into a UP5 that is 25 feet away I get a voltage drop to about 6 or 7
volts and sometimes I loose control of my loco becuase the DT 400
goes dead for awhile then kicks back in again. Anyone know what
might be going on?
Re: Loconet voltage drop?
Posted by Bruce Barrett on February 05, 2003, 10:51am
I am not sure of the part number but Digitrax has a plug in
power supply that plugs into the UP's and adds power to the
loco net. Plug it into the farest UP from your booster and your
voltage will go up.
Zephyr, MS100 and Train Controller PC
software ?
Posted by mamajama on February 03, 2003, 12:12am
Have a good question.
I was looking at selling my Atlas Commander set to buy a Zephyr
unit from Tony. I was wanting to know if the Zephyr is capable of
using the MS100 with RAILROAD & CO. TrainController
software. I don't want to sell what I have and buy the Zephyr only
to realize that it cannot be used in this setup. Any feedback?
Re: Zephyr, MS100 and Train Controller PC software
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 03, 2003, 08:22am
The Zephyr supports the full loco net which includes being able
to use the MS100 and whatever software you want to drive it.
Dale.
Digitrax Command Station and Booster
Question
Posted by Don H. on January 31, 2003, 12:29pm
With Digitrax, if you have additional boosters is it better to keep the
booster close to the command station and run a long bus wire to the
track section being controlled by the booster or should you put the
booster close to the track and run a long connection wire between
the command station and the booster?
Does it even matter?
Thanks
Peco code 75 electrofrog turnouts
Posted by Jim Stone on January 29, 2003, 04:49pm
Thanks to all who responded to the Pilz Elite question. May I please
hear from anyone caring to comment on the DCC friendliness and
other characteristics of HO scale code 75 turnouts from Peco.
Re: Peco code 75 electrofrog turnouts
Posted by Gale Saxton on January 30, 2003, 07:53am
I have about 40 HO Electrofrog turnouts in use and like them
very much. There are no DCC specific problems. (Insulfrogs
have some inherent problems and must be modified)
As with any 'power routing' turnout it is recommended to use
aux contacts on switch mach to power the frog and not rely on
point rail contacts for current. I use the Peco machines and aux
contacts.
Be sure to check track guage thru the point rails before using.
These are the stamped, movable rails and sometimes are not in
guage when received. Easily corrected by judicious re-bending.
Once in place they appear to be very reliable.
Using the Peco turnouts and Peco machines allow the turnout to
still be hand thrown which is the main reason I use them.
Good luck,
Gale
Pilz Elite Turnouts
Posted by Jim Stone on January 22, 2003, 06:30pm
Does anyone use HO scale code 83 turnouts from Pilz Elite (Tillig)?
They are supposed to be friendly for DCC. Any other comments
about them would be welcome as well. Their flex track is also
unknown to me. I have found two places in the USA that import
this type of track- one in Elburn, ILL and the other in Florida. Does
anyone west of the Mississippi river carry these products?
Re: Pilz Elite Turnouts
Posted by terry on January 23, 2003, 11:28pm
I have about 40 of the Pilz-Elite turnouts and they work great.
Yes they are perfect for DCC and are the best turnouts on the
market for DCC. There is no major alterations to be made to
make them DCC Compatible, ie; no rail cutting.
Terry
Re: Pilz Elite Turnouts
Posted by Jim on January 24, 2003, 09:35pm
Where can I find a list of retailers with contact information that
sell these Turnouts?
Re: Re: Pilz Elite Turnouts
Posted by terry on January 24, 2003, 11:38pm
type pilz-elite in your search engine and many sites will have
pilz-elite described. There are two dealears, one in Ind. and the
other in Fl.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 31

32
Re: Re: Re: Pilz Elite Turnouts
Posted by Bill Gaver on January 26, 2003, 02:51pm
Have over 75 Pilz-Elite on my layout. Source:The Train
Connection, North Palm Beach, FL Carroll Duffy, Proprieter
Phone: 1-888-707-2702
E-mail: ttcwrynn@worldnet.att.net
Circuit Breaker Advice
Posted by Tom Schilling on January 21, 2003, 09:45pm
Just getting started and what I don't know about DCC would fill a
room. I have a NCE PHP and would like to separate my track bus
from my accessories. I've been told I can do this with a PS circuit
breaker. I don't know which one to buy. And, does the breaker act
kind of like a splitter such that I end up with two separate buses,
one for track and one for the Switch-it, Tortoise lash-ups as well as
detection and signals? Any adivce would be appreciated. ...Tom
Re: Circuit Breaker Advice
Posted by Dale Gloer on January 22, 2003, 07:43am
You should use two PS breakers. The input to both are
connected to the booster output. The output of one breaker goes
to your track. The output of the other goes to your accessories.
Then the accessories and the track are isolated form a short onthe
other.
You could also use one breaker. If you do that I suggest that you
feed the track from the breaker and connect your accesories
directly to the booster. Since shorts are more likely on the track,
your accesories will continue to operate when a track short
occurs.
Decoder for P1K RS10
Posted by Mike McNamara on January 21, 2003, 11:01am
I just got the long delayed HO P1K MLW RS10s (CP Rail).
What would be a good decoder for this unit? It doesn't appear to
have an NMRA plug.
Will the light bulbs need to be replaced like P2K units?
Thanks!
Mike
EasyRamp
Posted by Terry on January 15, 2003, 03:53pm
Does anyone have experience with Wangrow's (System
One)EasyRamp software for programming decoders. Will it work
on a NCE system and how does it physically hook up. My
computer is nowheres near my layout. Can I run a cable from the
computer to a piece of track next to the computer and do the
programming right there? Thanks for any help.
Terry
Re: EasyRamp
Posted by Don H. on January 15, 2003, 10:23pm
I don't know about the EasyRamp software but you might take a
look at DecoderPro. Its a free download you can find at:
http://jmri.sourceforge.net/index.html
According to the web site: for the NCE system you can usually
just connect the command station to the computer's serial port
using a 9-pin serial cable.
This software is a really nice clean, easy to use package.
Re: EasyRamp
Posted by Dale Gloer on January 16, 2003, 08:02am
Easyramp works with the NCE system. You have to connect
your computer to the command station. Use a serial port on the
computer to the RS232 plug on the command station. As
someone else posted, Decoder Pro is also available.
The only product that allows you to do what you asked is the
Digitrax PR1 (or one of a couple of PR1 clones that are available
if you build it yourself). Not everyone is successful with the
PR1 though.
Check it out on www.digitrax.com
Dale.
Kapton tape
Posted by Jerbear on January 13, 2003, 11:08am
Where can you buy Kapton tape?
Is there a different tape you can use?
Re: Kapton tape
Posted by DonV on January 13, 2003, 11:32am
Kapton tape is manufactured by 3M. You can purchase it
through Digikey [search for "kapton tape" :>) ] It is physically a
tough, high temperature polymid film with a high dielectric
strength and good thermal transfer characteristics. Quite useful
in the electrical industry. But at $20+ a roll, not cheap...
Kapton is probably overkill for model RRers. Electrical tape
tends to be too 'gooey'. I use 2 layers common adhesive tape
(usually mylar base) or a layer of the more ridgid 'blister-pack'
packaging material if there is a need for electrical isolation with
vibration resistance.
DonV
Re: Re: Kapton tape
Posted by Dale Gloer on January 14, 2003, 07:46am
You can buy it right here from Tony. Go to this page.
http://ttx-dcc.com/products/dccaccess_acc.htm
Dale.
Re: Re: Kapton tape
Posted by Don H. on January 14, 2003, 12:38pm
$20.00 a roll is a bit on the high side but it will probably last you
a life time.
Re: Re: Re: Kapton tape
Posted by D Luke on January 19, 2003, 05:01pm
We use Kapton Tape at my workplace. We build various types of
missiles and the tape is used freely to restrain things, to protect
stuff from sharp edges, and anything else that one can think of.
Unlike regular tapes, it is not affected by heat and, if I recall the
information on it, it actually adheres better as it cures from the
heat(don't quote me on this). It's really good for restraining stray
wires to the frame, etc. so they won't get pinched between the
shell and other parts. So, although it may seem expensive, once
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

you get it, you will find many uses for it and a roll may not last a
lifetime. I use it to hold labels on things, like my name label on
my personal DCC handheld throttle(neccessary for club
operation).
Big Boy decoder
Posted by Wolfy on January 11, 2003, 05:43pm
Does anyone know of any website having good info on the Arnold
decoders that come with the Rivarossi Big Boys? Such as wire
color uses and programmable CV's? I noticed mine has both the
yellow and white wire together going to the front headlight. Other
decoders usually use white for headlight and yellow for tender. Can
I separate these and do that? I also noticed there's a blue and green
wire coming off the board that's only an inch or two long and then
they're cut off - don't go anywhere. Isn't blue usually ground for the
lights? Can these be used for anything?
Any info would be helpful as the instructions in the box are awful
and in broken translated English.
Thanks,
Wolfy
Re: Big Boy decoder
Posted by Dale Gloer on January 13, 2003, 07:49am
Don't know specifically about the Big Boy but in general the
blue wire is the lamp common voltage supply, ie. that is it is
about +12 volts for HO. The white and yellow both connected to
the headlight is a quick way to have the headlight on for both
forward and reverse travel with directional lighting enabled.
Does the Big Boy have a back up light? If not and you want to
install one, you could disconnect the yellow from the headlight
and connect the backup light between the blue and yellow. This
would give you directional lighting. The green wire is normally
F1 so if you connect a light between the blue and green F1
should control it.
Dale.
Digitrax 583S Decoder Installation
Posted by Fred Bechtold on January 09, 2003, 11:01am
Gentlemen:
My wife purchased a Digitrax Starter Set for me for Xmas and I am
having problems with the installation of the decoders in a USA
Trains "F" unit. I'm not sure which wires are to go where as there
seems to be more wires than the instruction sheet shows.
These units have four wires coming from both motors and two
wires from each set of pickups, one set of pickups in the front
motor and one set on the rear motor.
I don't think this should be so hard but it has me confused with all
the wires, plus all the wires are Red or Black going from both
motors to the circuit boards under the shell. (HELP, PLEASE.)
Could you please e-mail me instructions for this installation as I
would really like to get this up and running ASAP.
Thank You Very Much!
Fred Bechtold
Re: Digitrax 583S Decoder Installation
Posted by Fritz on January 09, 2003, 02:44pm
Fred,
To get fast and competent advice,
you may want to join a users group.
The Yahoo! Digitrax users group has
2795 members, running trains in all
gauges with Digitrax DCC, asking for solutions of their
problems, sharing their knowledge and their experiences with
their fellow modellers.
Here`s the link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/digitrax/
Best regards,
Fritz
Decoder installation in Kato DD13 Center Cab
Switc
Posted by Paul West on December 31, 2002, 05:36pm
Has anyone installed a decoder in an N scale Kato DD13 center cab
switcher ? Any tips would be appreciated.
Re: Decoder installation in Kato DD13 Center Cab S
Posted by Chuck Howerton on December 24, 2005, 02:52pm
Did you ever get an answer to this question?????
howerton@wavecable.com
Kato Crossing and DCC
Posted by Paul West on December 31, 2002, 01:17pm
Has anyone found a way to modify a KATO automatic crossing
gate or signal to work with DCC?
pwjw67@comcast.net
Stationary decoders and PECO switch
machines
Posted by Andrew Chao on December 30, 2002, 06:07pm
I appreciate your review of stationary decoders. Did your testing
use the standard PECO PL-10 twin-coil machine, or the PL-10W
made for DCC? I bought all the PL-10s I needed before decif=ding
to convert my layout-in-progress to DCC; do you see any need for
me to convert to PL-10Ws?
MRC Prodigy problems
Posted by Stan on December 18, 2002, 01:17pm
I have recently been informed by a few DCC dealers that they just
found out that the MRC Prodigy is not made to the NMRA
standards, as a result, there have been problems when using
decoders other than MRC decoders with the Prodigy. The throttle
range is reduced to less than 1/5 of the total range making the
operation of the speed very dificult, in some cases almost impossible.
MRC has a fix for this and anyone who has a Prodigy should
call MRC for this upgrade.
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34
Re: MRC Prodigy problems
Posted by Bob Miller on December 20, 2002, 11:42am
upgrade is one way, but I would not invest a lot of money in a
system that is not NMRA compliant. These systems will always
have problems fitting in the DCC world. The old command
systems like Dynatrol and CTC80 were not and they have gone
away.
Bob
Decoder for N Scale Spectrum Dash 8 Series
Posted by Luke on December 16, 2002, 09:57am
Hello everyone,
My question is about some of my N scale Spectrum Dash 8 series
loco's, being converted to DCC. When taken apart it is abvious that
the light board would come out and a DCC board would be put in
its place. Does anybody know where to get a DCC board for these
locos. Or is there another way to convert to DCC?
Thanks everyone.
Luke
Decoder installation-Rivarossi Blue Goose
Posted by Rob Leanna on December 16, 2002, 08:59am
How would I install a DCC decoder in a Rivarossi 4-6-4, Blue
Goose. Looks simple enough, but wanted to verify the location of
the left and right track pick-ups. Also, do I need to replace the
existing headlight with some other bulb?
Buying a DCC
Posted by Jim on December 12, 2002, 11:05pm
I am ready to buy a new DCC system from Tony's. Before I jump
into the NCE system, is there anything I should know? It seems to
be the most complete and I find the controller to be the most user
friendly (w/o being too basic). I see Lenz coming out with new
stuff...I also have considered Digitrax but their controllers seem to
combersome - or rather, too complicated.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Jim in Glen Ellyn, Illinois
Re: Buying a DCC
Posted by Russ on December 13, 2002, 11:00am
When I bought my system I looked at 1. comfort , is it comfortable
in my hand. 2. what was everybody in my operating group
using ( i was a loner at the time)3.which one is easier to program
4. price 5.reputation (the signal is based on the Lenz system) .
Every company /fan of each system will tell you that thier
system is the world's greatest. You must decide what you are
most comfortable with.The decoders and accessories are pretty
much interchagable therefore the controller or cab was what I
based my decesion on.
Re: Buying a DCC
Posted by Paul on December 18, 2002, 04:30pm
Jim, before you buy your DCC system, call dealers who sell all
of the major brands and get their opinion about what to purchase
by telling them the way you plan to run your layout, the scale
you use, do you want sound, etc. etc. etc. ask questions! By
getting the different opinions, you'll be able to make a better
choice. I started off wanting one brand and ended up buying a
different one, I'm very happy with the one I bought.
Re: Re: Buying a DCC
Posted by Bob Miller on December 20, 2002, 11:40am
I have used NCE for a couple of years and am very pleased with
it. I live in an area where other brands are more universal, and
having run on those systems, I would still go NCE. The
suggestion about talking to a dealer who sells all the major
brands is a good one, but there are very few I know of that meet
that criteria. Tony is very much one of those few.
Bob
Re: Buying a DCC
Posted by Don H. on December 20, 2002, 06:33pm
The latest issue of RMC has an article about selecting a DCC
system. Some of the posts have suggested finding a dealer who
stocks several different brands of DCC equipment but I would
like to suggest trying to find some clubs or private layouts that
are open to visits from the public. The throttle is what you spend
95% of your time interacting with so you want to make sure you
have one that feels comfortable and has the features you need as
well as being easy to operate.
Re: Buying a DCC
Posted by Terry on December 21, 2002, 09:12pm
Jim - I run a NCE radio system for my own railroad and use a
Digitrax radio system at our club. The NCE Pro cab I feel is
more user friendly than the Digitrax DT400 only when it comes
to programming. The DT400 is a great throttle for running
trains. I don't know it you're thinking of a radio system but I feel
the Digitrax system is better than NCE. Have fun !!
flat led
Posted by fred on December 12, 2002, 09:22am
i want to use flat leds for my headlights has anyone used these and
what is the best way to hook them up?
Re: flat led
Posted by Jim on December 14, 2002, 07:52pm
I'm interested in your proposed use of "flat" LEDs. First of all,
I'm somewhat familiar with LEDs but am not sure what you
mean by "flat". Also, how would you use them for headlights?
Atlas Bulb Question
Posted by Jim Harr on December 03, 2002, 03:50pm
Hi all;
I have two Atlas Classic GP-7's and two Atlas Classic RS-3's, for
which Tony sold me four NCE DASR decoders. My question is,
does anyone know whether or not I should replace the stock Atlas
Headlight bulbs for DCC operation, such as is done with Proto
2000 units? Many thanks;
Jim Harr
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Atlas Bulb Question
Posted by joe on December 04, 2002, 10:32pm
Jim, I think the Atlas bulbs are ~14 volt. The easy way to try is
to hook one up to a DC powerpack and se if the bulbs are bright
at 1.5volt. If they are don't apply more!(guess how I know this!)
Can I use a PC to replace any part of a DCC
system
Posted by Pat on November 22, 2002, 04:55pm
I have 2 old PCs (486 & P Pro 200) could I use them in a DCC
system to replace some other component to help a tight budget?
Re: Can I use a PC to replace any part of a DCC sy
Posted by Don H. on November 24, 2002, 04:42pm
I'm not a DCC expert by any means but I will go out on a limb
and attempt to answer your question.
First, lets look at what components are required for a bare bones
DCC system:
1. Comand Station
2. Power supply for above. ( some systems have these two
combined into one unit)
3. Throttle
4. One decoder equiped loco.
The only item I'm aware that could possibly be replaced by
computer would be #3 but in order to do that you would
probably have to purchase additional hardware/software which
would seem to negate any advantage of going this route.
If your trying to get into DCC on a budget you might want to
look at some of the newer entry level systems such as the
Zephyr or check out the used systems market.
Hope this has been of some help.
Don H.
Re: Re: Can I use a PC to replace any part of a DC
Posted by John on November 30, 2002, 11:37pm
If you have a Palm Pilot, you could get the LocoPalm software
to replace a throttle. Power supply isn't a big deal, however I'm
not aware of any PC-based software that will provide the
command station/booster functionality. I don't think it'd be hard,
however all the DCC makers seem to have their own proprietary
code in the command stations, and I would think they'd soon be
out of business if we could just buy the software to run on our
old PC's (I have a P2-400 that I would use also) rather than buy
their systems.
Having had a Digitrax Chief now for a couple years, I'd agree
with the last post and buy a decent starter system that'll provide
the basic functionality you need and go from there. After 8 years
now, I still haven't used 1/10 of what the Chief will do.
Re: Re: Re: Can I use a PC to replace any part of
Posted by ed bradbury on December 02, 2002, 12:07pm
Basically the DCC command station is a computer. In fact some
of the early testing of DCC was performed by Rutgar Friberg
using a computer. It may be helpful to read a copy of "Digital
Command Control" by Stan Ames (TT Trains), Ed Loizeaux and
Rutgar Friburg (all on the NMRA DCC committee) published in
corporation with NMRA. I am not a computer wiz but there may
be a way to use your computer as the command station. Also
note that some of the command stations have a computer port for
using it, with the correct software, to set the decoder CVs. There
is freeware put out by JMRI that can be used to set the decoder
CVs using a PC or Power Mac. I have only scanned it but it is
impressive. Another source of info would be NMRA and its
Special Interest Groups.
Hope this gives you some leads.
Re: Can I use a PC to replace any part of a DCC sy
Posted by Fritz Milhaupt on December 03, 2002, 07:21am
The only system I've seen for this that looks even remotely
viable can be found at http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/
7706/tmwdcc.html
If you choose to go this route, be prepared to do a lot of your
own assembly work- it's not a turnkey solution that you can just
plug and play. This one, or the more limited DCC-MB (http://
web.syr.edu/~mobrandt/dcc-mb/dccmbhom.htm) before it, both
require considerable assembly.
If you enjoy electronics as a hobby, this might be something to
consider, but if you're just looking for a way to avoid paying the
cash for an off-the-shelf system, the hassle factor is likely to
outweigh any savings.
-fm
Need AHM parts
Posted by Jim on November 17, 2002, 11:59am
Hi! I have just discovered that I need a new gear for my AHM
Mallet (2-8-8-X).I need the 11 tooth bras gear (it developed a crack)
in the gearbox, or an entire gearbox. Let me know if anyone has any
ideas wehere I can purchase. Thanx for your help.
Jim
Re: Need AHM parts
Posted by Tim V on November 18, 2002, 08:29pm
Jim
You can try North West Short Line (www.nwsl.com). Not sure
they have what you need, but a good source for drive train parts.
Did you try AHM directly?
Tim
Re: Re: Need AHM parts
Posted by e bradbury on November 19, 2002, 10:42am
Try International Hobby Corp as they probably were the
importer of your AHM locomotive.
Re: Need AHM parts
Posted by Don LUke on December 31, 2002, 11:23am
A while back I needed to replace some parts on one of my
AHM/Rivarossi steam engines. I was received the following
from people at Walthers;
"At the present time, sir, my best recommendation for Rivarossi
parts is one our dealers, Golf Manor Hobbies of Cincinnati,
Ohio. Ed Rosbac, the proprietor,has accumulated a good
selection of parts from this manufacturer and may be contacted at
(513) 351-3849."
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 35

36
I was able to get the parts I needed (replacement truck for 2-10-2
and a few detail parts)
Basic wiring
Posted by Ed on November 13, 2002, 06:19pm
Your name was given me at the "First Frost" train show @
Allentown, Pa last weekend. I'm an S guage modeler and building
my first layout in my basement. Have Flyer, S Helper Service and
American Models locos and I vision running the layout by DCC.
As you know, they are all AC. I need help with the basic wiring - by
the way the layout(Module #1) features three(3) reverse loops. Is
there either some advice you can provide or some publication I can
get to help? With the basic wiring in place, I then need help with the
right power packs, decoders for the engines, etc, etc. Many thanks
for any help you can give.
Ed W.
Re: Basic wiring
Posted by Bob Miller on November 16, 2002, 10:53pm
Ed; if you want help from Tony, suggest you post your request
on the email addresses he lists under Contact us. I am not sure
that he monitors this forum all that often.
Bob
Spectrum Decoder help
Posted by John O. on November 04, 2002, 10:28pm
Hello everyone...
At the train show here in Mihcigan this past weekend, my son
selected two new engines for the branchline of our layout, a
Spectrum GE 44-tonner and a Spectrum Doodlebug. Although not
the first choice of manufacturer I'd pick, he likes them.
So now the problem...which decoder to put in the two engines? The
instructions show a circuit board with light attached, are there any
drop-in decoders compatible with these boards? I'd hate to have to
re-wire everything.
Thanks,
John
Re: Spectrum Decoder help
Posted by Roger Robar on November 05, 2002, 06:47pm
John, as far as the 44-tonner model goes, forget about saving/
using the light board, remove it. Install (hard wire) any N-scale
decoder, it's a piece of cake. THEN, fill every nook and cranny
with lead to greatly increase the pulling power of this great little
model.My model now will haul 7 freight cars up a 2 1/2 %
grade. More than the prototype.
Roger
Re: Re: Spectrum Decoder help
Posted by e bradbury on November 06, 2002, 08:10am
Model Railroader January 2001 has a great article on how to
install a Digitrax N scale decoder into the 44 tonner including
where to cut and mofify the motor connections.
By the way, the Model Railroader Magazine web site has an
index of magazine articles, "index of magazines", dating back to
about 1940, or later, and includes not only MR but other model
railroading magazines. By using key words or your own you
can search for articles on the subject. They do not have the
articles scanned in the web site, you must order them. It a great
site.
Re: Spectrum Decoder help
Posted by Fritz Milhaupt on November 06, 2002, 12:50pm
Which version of the 44-tonner do you have? The older twomotor
version, or the newer single-motor version with flywheels?
The old two-motor version has developed a reputation in some
circles as a decoder-killer. I suspect that my own installation
failure the first time around may have been partly from using a
Back-EMF decoder in this dual-motor locomotive. An older
Digitrax DN93 worked for the second attempt. The conversion
is fussy work and not for the faint-of-heart.
If you have the recent single-motor 44-tonner, installing a
decoder is simple: remove two clips from the edge of the PC
board and solder the decoder leads to the pads Bachmann
provides.
The Doodlebug actually has a decoder socket built-in, though
Bachmann doesn't really call it out. Once you get it open, its
location is obvious. Any decoder with the eight-pin NMRA plug
should work.
-fm
(Ann Arbor, MI)
Re: Spectrum Decoder help
Posted by DonV on November 07, 2002, 01:46pm
I put an NCE D104KRS in my HO scale Sprecturm Doodlebug.
The D104KRS is not in current production, but may still be
found. Any other new decoders that fit a Kato RS-2, RSC-2,
C44-9W or Atlas U23B should also fit the Doodlebug.
Re: Re: Spectrum Decoder help
Posted by Dennis Lippert on November 12, 2002, 11:05am
By the by... even with the NEW 44-tonner, an N-scale decoder is
required. The hood of a 44-tonner isn't wide enough to accept
the typical HO-sized decoder...
Den
Java Model Railroad Interface
Posted by Don H. on October 22, 2002, 09:52pm
I strongly recomend that anyone and everyone who has an interest
in DCC to check out the JMRI web site:
http://jmri.sourceforge.net/index.html
The highlight of this project is Decoder Pro, a very user friendly
software to help you program your decoders.
Don H.
Switch-it on Atlas Master DCC System
Posted by Edward M. Staib on October 20, 2002, 02:56pm
I have a hon30 logging railroad. I bought the Atlas Dcc system and
started buying my Tortoise turn out motors for the layout. I also
bought Switch-it decodors for the turn out motors so I can control
them from the Atlas Master.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

I followed the directions for both the Switch-it Decoder and the
Atlas products. But when I went to program the decoder the Atlas
Master does not "see" the Decoder and I get the "er2" message
telling me there was no response. This either means that I screwed
up some where or that the decoder does not function.
Does anyone out there have any ideas about what could possibly be
wrong?
What Recommended Decoders?
Posted by El Paso Mark on October 17, 2002, 11:08pm
Hi all. I'm new to DCC, so what would be the simplest (function)
recommended decoders for the following engines:
Spectrum Decapod
Spectrum 2-8-0
MDC Old Time 2-8-0 #270
At this time all I want/need is for the engine to move and the head/
tail lamps to be constantly on at a constant brightness (unlike DC).
Thanx, and take care,
Mark
Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Stan on October 17, 2002, 02:36pm
Last week I got a new batch of Atlas 340 decoders only to find that
almost half of them won't program. I have now found out that many
others are having the same problem. I talked to three main sellers of
DCC and they all confirmed this is a problem which has just
surfaced. I tried Atlas but the Tech Reps must all be at a trade show
this week. Is anyone else having this problem or does someone
know of a fix for this problem. The decoders just won't program or
some show show ERR. I think Lenz makes these decoders for
Atlas, I called Lenz and they are also away at a trade show. Any
help would be appreciated.
Stan
Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Paul on October 17, 2002, 03:55pm
Stan, I'm having the same problem with three atlas decoders, I'm
waiting for atlas to call me back.
Paul
Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Richard on October 28, 2002, 01:33pm
I purchesed two Atlas GP-40s one programed fine other did not,
I ended up putting a NCE decoder in.
Re: Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by graeme on October 28, 2002, 11:23pm
I just wish Atlas would quit putting decoders in their locos,I
prefer to chose my own.I won't buy decoder equipped locos,for
that reason. Anyone feel the same?
Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Bob Miller on October 29, 2002, 08:33am
I don't really feel the same about not putting decoders in. I like
getting the loco complete and ready to program, and I have not
had any problems with the factory installed decoders. I have had
with a couple I bought from the LHS to install in older Atlas.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Paul on November 22, 2002, 01:28pm
After a long time and a few calls, I got my Atlas decoders back.
The decoders I got back did the same thing as they did before. I
changed to the DASR decoders from NCE and all of the
problems went away, they worked. I hope others have better
luck. Paul
Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Ralph on December 10, 2002, 09:41pm
Stan
I have never had a problem programming atlas decoders, what
system are you using?
Ralph
Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Don Luke on December 31, 2002, 11:28am
We purchased two Atlas SD35 diesels with decoders installed.
The units ran fine on DC so we switched the plug to enable
DCC. The engines would not move. We finally found out the
CVs had strange settings so after setting to default values, the
engines ran fine. But, that is only two decoders so it is a poor
sampling. Have had no problems since.
Re: Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by John Loesch on January 04, 2003, 08:00am
Have 2 SD35's and 2 GP38's -- both programmed without a
problem. I have 3 more to program for a fellow club member,
will post further when I program them ans see what they do/
don't do....
Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Bruce Barrett on January 23, 2003, 07:18am
For the Digitrax users you can use [ ph mode ] to program Atlas
decoders, If you need to change its NDT you must do CV 29
first then do your add. I use ph mode and have had no trouble.
Re: Atlas Decoder Problems
Posted by Ed Majury on February 04, 2003, 11:15am
Stan,
What system are you using? I would like to try to replicate the
problem so we can eliminate future problems.
Need Input - Wireless Control System
Posted by Rick on October 16, 2002, 04:55pm
I'd like to get some input - I currently own several LGC locos and
would like to put them on a ceiling mounted track.
To make this useable, I'd like to be able control the trains wirelessly.
I did this in my old house with some simple blocks & the Train
Engineer from Aristocraft but was only able to bring out one train at
a time.
I'd like to be able to control each of the trains independently and to
control 3-5 switches that will be on the layout. I don't have a need to
control things like sound, lights, etc... on the locos.
What's the best system to look at given these needs?
Thanks much.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 37

Status Codes
Posted by David on October 11, 2002, 06:27pm
Using my Digitrax DT100 throttle I can program CV6 and CV5 for
mid and top range speed values (to slow the engine down). When I
select my engine and check the status code, I change it from 13 to
10 to accept the speed values I inserted. Now, how do you check the
status code with a DT300?
38
Re: Status Codes
Posted by Dale Gloer on October 15, 2002, 08:03am
Read the section on Status Editing a decoder in the Chief II
manual. All the Digitrax manuals are available online at
www.digitrax.com
Dale
Re: Status Codes
Posted by Don H on October 18, 2002, 09:15pm
Don Crano has a section on the status codes and programming
them. Try:
http://home.neo.rr.com/mrwithdcc/
Hope this helps.
Re: Status Codes
Posted by graeme on October 24, 2002, 06:01am
hi ,, you dont need to change the status if you are only changing
cvs 5&6. The DT300 displays the status of each loco as you
scroll through (right knob)each address prior to selection. e.g. *
128,28.
Re: Re: Status Codes
Posted by David on October 24, 2002, 08:39pm
Graeme, When you set the mid range limit to 20 (CV6) and top
range to 40 (CV5), the status of a DT100 has to be changed
from 13 to 10 in order for the decoder to only reach a top speed
of 40. But doing that with a DT300, I change the Dt300 speed
steps by selecting 28 (which recognizes the changes in CV5 &
6.
Re: Re: Re: Status Codes
Posted by Fritz on October 24, 2002, 10:28pm
David,
newer decoders, such as DH 142`s
and DH 163`s run with cv`s 5/6 active in the 128 ss mode.
Check the decoder card that came
with DH 142 decoders, p.3 ,table,
cv 61.
Hope that helps.
Athearn
Posted by Terry on October 08, 2002, 11:31pm
I have some custom painted and detailed Athearn units that I'd like
to convert to DCC but don't want to get involved with the work.
Does anyone know if anyone makes frames with a DCC ready
motor that will accept Athearn shells. Thanks
Re: Athearn
Posted by bradbury on October 10, 2002, 11:56am
There was frames from someone(Front Range? Proto Power?)
but these were massaged athearn units.
You might try a LifeLike P2K GP7, GP9, etc frame for Athearn
GP7, etc. LL uses light bars to transmit light from the bulbs to
the front & rear lights whereas Athearn has a single bulb. LL
uses screws to retain the body and the couplers frame mounted.
New body mounts may be required.
Take a look at decoder manufacturers to see what locos their
decoders fit into (try Tony's list of decoders for a start). This
should give you an idea of what chasises are available for your
Athearn units.
Also Digitrax make a decoder kit for Athearn locos which has
the the motor brush retainers and light wired to the their decoder;
no soldering.
Hopes this helps.
Re: Athearn
Posted by Jacques W. on October 11, 2002, 10:52am
If your Athearn are good runner and they have a fairly recent
motor, the gold color ones, it is very easy to convert these loco
to DCC.
Isolate the bottom of the frame where the motor sit, with
electrical tape and cut or bent upward the part of the motor
retaining clip, that make contact with the frame.
Digitrax make special decoder with harnes for these engines.
This is a very simple job.
Have fun
Re: Athearn
Posted by Don Luke on December 31, 2002, 11:39am
Digitrax DH-123AT decoder makes it real simple. I used the
predecessor, the DH-121AT and it is basically a snap(literally) to
convert to DCC.
cass /??
Posted by harry on October 06, 2002, 08:19pm
Looking for good model HO of Shay 3-truck
(harbo17@worldnet.att.net)
RRampMeter
Posted by Roger Robar on October 06, 2002, 05:02pm
Has anyone purchased the new RRampMeter and if so what is your
opinion of it? Is it worth the costs? Kind of waiting to see what the
model press reviews are. Roger
Re: RRampMeter
Posted by Ed McCamey on October 16, 2002, 03:33pm
Roger - I've gotten my RRampMeter and I'm really impressed. I
added the 9v battery option to monitor and observe 0-12v in DC
mode while testing and breaking in my locos before adding
decoders. The amp draw is clear and precise. Moving from DC
to DCC allows clear indications of operating conditions. The
precision in DCC mode is very helpful and I've found the meter
to be very robust and reliable. I'd recommend getting the version
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

1, adding the version 3 parts, making up a mounting, and wiring
in via some control switches for various combinations of
components (e.g., whole system, various boosters, DC test loop,
etc.).
Re: Re: RRampMeter
Posted by Roger on October 21, 2002, 07:55am
Thanks Ed for your comments on the RRampMeter. Looks like a
trip to Tony's is in order. Roger
MRC/NCE
Posted by Rich McMahon on October 03, 2002, 11:25am
having trouble programming MRC decoders AD305 and AD310
with the NCE Powerhouse Pro.
Anyone out there solved this problem? How?
Thanks,
Rich
Re: MRC/NCE
Posted by Van Chanay on October 31, 2003, 09:40pm
Rich - Did you ever receive any info on your problem of
programming MRC AD310 decoders with the NCE system? I
am having the same problem. Does anyone have a straight
foreward process for this? Thanks.
Re: Re: MRC/NCE
Posted by John Sawaska on November 10, 2003, 08:20pm
Rich, see page #71 in NCE manual.
use program track in register program mode (option #3).
enter register number(1 thru 5).
see page 57 for what each register
number does.
Hope this helps,John.
PROTO 2-8-4
Posted by J HARRIS on September 25, 2002, 10:16am
I HAVE TRIED TO GET INFO ON PROTO'S NEW 2-8-4
LOCOMOTIVE, WILL THE C&O UNITS BE PROTOTYPICAL
WITH SAND DOME IN CORRECT POSITION OR WILL IT
BE LIKE RIVAROSSI AND OVER THE WRONG DRIVERS?
Re: PROTO 2-8-4
Posted by F. Milhaupt on September 30, 2002, 11:08am
According to Art Million, who has been working with Life-Like
on the P2K Berks from a Pere Marquette angle, LL is going to
rather great lengths to ensure that /all/ of the versions they decide
to run are accurate. I didn't try to get the details of the C&O
versions from him (they're not in my area of interest), but from
the amount of work I've heard they're doing on the PM side, I
wouldn't be concerned that they're going to cheat on the C&O
models, which, after all, should appeal to a larger audience.
-fm
re frog powering
Posted by james on September 25, 2002, 09:38am
you said you began having trouble with the contacts after several
years. what do you mean by several?
site is shrinking
Posted by graeme on September 23, 2002, 10:32pm
What has happened to this site? it hardly seems to get any use any
more.6-8 months ago there were lots of spirited discussions &
comments but they have gradually diminished, does anyone else feel
the same? Cheers from OZ.
Re: site is shrinking
Posted by DonV on September 25, 2002, 11:01am
I agree. So I'm just an occasional lurker here. Mostly to see
what's new.
I'm not interested in most of the old hat discussion topics.
Have found other forums for better focus on pertinent topics of
interest.
DonV
Re: Re: site is shrinking
Posted by Bob Miller on September 25, 2002, 11:41pm
Actually, most of the sites I frequent are having less activity than
normal. It may be the weather. Here in steamy Kansas City
everyone a little testy.
Maybe fall will get us revived again.
Bob
Re: Re: site is shrinking
Posted by graeme on September 26, 2002, 01:51am
hi don v.i seem to recall you were a regular contributor a while
back. how about telling me some of these other sites you have
found? my e/mail is- graeme@ozemail.com.au Thank you.( I
often go to the Bachmann forum site but hav'nt been able to get
on to it the last couple of days, dont know whether its me or
them. Cheers from oz.
Re: Re: Re: site is shrinking
Posted by DonV on September 30, 2002, 01:29pm
graeme
Tried to send U a private e-mail.
Got a mail-box full reply!
Re: site is shrinking
Posted by Don H. on October 01, 2002, 12:11pm
It could just be the summer doldrums.
If you want to get some action on the site you could always say
something negative about (insert name of DCC manufacturer
here). That's usually good for several postings.
I personally don't have anything negative to say about anyone or
anything.
Don H.
Re: Re: site is shrinking
Posted by Bob Miller on October 01, 2002, 02:22pm
How about Saddam?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 39

40
Re: Re: Re: Re: site is shrinking
Posted by graeme on October 01, 2002, 09:15pm
hi don, looks like i gave wrong e-mail address
graemar@ozemail.com.au Thanks for trying. Graeme.
PECO Small Radii Switch #4 -- AC Motor/DC
Decoder
Posted by Jean-Claude Noel on September 16, 2002, 12:55pm
Hi !
I am new to this.
I seems to me that switches motor are AC. But the decoders are DC.
I heard that DC simplifies wirering
! Does one has to wire the motor for AC and then attach the decoder
to the switch motor?
Thanks
Re: PECO Small Radii Switch #4 -- AC Motor/DC
Deco
Posted by e bradbury on September 24, 2002, 10:00am
Are these peco solenoid motorsthat mount under the switch,
tortise motors? Could you give some details about the motors
you are addressing.
Re: PECO Small Radii Switch #4 -- AC Motor/DC
Deco
Posted by Dale Gloer on September 25, 2002, 08:23am
Peco switch motors are solenoid type and operate best on DC.
The same can be said about most other solenoid motors however
many will operate on AC as well. Tortoise (and other slow
motion motors) are DC motors and must operate on DC. If you
are aksing about using a DCC Stationary decoder to operate the
switch motor, then each manufacturer's decoder comes with
wiring instructions - some only support slow motion, some
solenoid and some support both. Some may need an external
power source, some don't.
Dale.
Re: Re: PECO Small Radii Switch #4 -- AC Motor/DC
Posted by Jean-Claude Noel on October 09, 2002, 11:49am
Your comments are much appreciated.
Thanks
CTC-80
Posted by Jimray on September 14, 2002, 10:32am
Have a CTC-80 system as removed from operating layout. Some
components are new, never used. Anybody still using this system
that needs spare parts?? Will only sell complete system. Reply
offlist with interest for details. okjim@msn.com
Re: CTC-80
Posted by Bob Miller on September 16, 2002, 07:06pm
There are quite a few CTC80 systems in use in the Kansas City
area. I am an oddball as I was Dynatrol, now converted to NCE
DCC. I will pass the word around about what you have for sale
and how to contact you.
You may remember that Larry Keeler, who built and sold
CTC80 was a Kansas City resident, and one of our old group.
Bob
lenz 02 system
Posted by John on September 07, 2002, 02:18pm
I am interested in the Lenz 02 system and would like to know if
anyone can give me some feedback either negative or positive about
it. Thanks for your help.
Re: lenz 02 system
Posted by Gene on September 20, 2002, 12:00pm
Dont have Lenz 02 but do have LH200 works great inside but if
you are going outside sun shades readout. I have 2 Lenz systems
LZ100 ,4 handhelds , 6 NCE 10 amp boosters, about 75 Lenz
decoders
computer interface, Wireless interfaces, etc and have had very
little trouble, most of it I caused, and am happy with it.
Gene
Atlas Dual Mode Decoder engines
Posted by douglasnash@hotmail.com on September 05, 2002,
10:55am
Do any memebers have problems with the recent Master Series
ATLAS diesel locos???
I have an RF&P GP-40, and the same night one of the other club
members has a brand new Southern SD-35...BOTH
engines...would not function when the jumper pin was moved from
anaglog to DCC position.
This is odd that both failed the same way. Our club system is
Digitrax, and was upo and running, as well as my Alaska, GM&O
and NECR units all functioning on DCC. The Southern &RF&P
ones ran in DC mode, but headlights did not come on, nor would
they move at all in DCC, yet both decoders diagnosed as having the
correct addresses.
Any help or are both engines production line duds???
Re: Atlas Dual Mode Decoder engines
Posted by Nigel F Misso on September 09, 2002, 09:40am
Hi DOug;
My two N&W GP40 and two N&W SD35 locomotives operate
fine on a Digitrax system.
On the SD35, I found the plugs a little harder to get pushed back
in, than on the GP40.
You should give Atlas a call.
Nigel
Re: Re: Atlas Dual Mode Decoder engines
Posted by Donald Luke on September 24, 2002, 09:50pm
We purchased two Atlas Dual Mode SD35 units. First, I
wouldn't call them dual mode as they are single mode unless the
jumper is moved unlike other decoders which sense and switch.
We tested the units on DC and they worked fine. We moved the
jumpers and selected the addresses of the engines per Atlas
instructions. Lights came on but neither engine would move. A
check of the CVs found them at something other than "0" if I
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

emember correctly. We zeroed out the CVs for start voltage, mid
range, and max voltage and the engines ran fine. We have played
with the CVs some more so they could MU with a pair of Kato
SD40s and they continue to run fine. But that first night ?????
Hope this helps.
frog powering
Posted by fred on September 05, 2002, 09:06am
has anyone used the aux. contacts on a tourtise switch machine to
power the frog? are there any problems using dcc this way
Re: frog powering
Posted by Ed McCamey on September 05, 2002, 01:59pm
Thats the best way for frog powering! The contacts are rated for
about 1-amp - but that's "switching" rating and in reality - they
can handle plenty. You can also use both sets of contacts for a bit
more reliability. I also wire in a tail light bulb on the frog power
for localized protection against shorts due to de-railing. Pending
the turnouts you use, you may also want to check out the
modifications as suggested by Don Crano on his web site.
Certain turnouts will stay electrically charged on the rails during
the transition and can cause shorts internally. Be sure and replace
the actuator wire with something stiffer.
Re: frog powering
Posted by Jim on September 05, 2002, 04:00pm
I use DCC and have powered the frogs through Tortoise switch
machines on 23 switches with no problem. There is a recommended
(not by Circuitron)internal mod online that helps to
prevent momentary shorting through the Tortoise when the
switch is activated that helps and should be done. I'll have to
look for it and post later unless someone already knows where
to find it.
Re: Re: frog powering
Posted by David on September 18, 2002, 07:35pm
All of my frogs are powered through the relay. I have modified
all of my turnouts so there is not a problem with momentary
shorting. However, after several years, I am starting to have a
problem with the contacts. I recently had to replace two of the
Tortoise machines; 1 because it would get stuck in the thrown
position and 1 because the contacts in the relays weren't routing
power to the frog or to the Digitrax DS-54 feedback loop. I am
thinking of replacing the internal relays on that one with external
micro switches activated by the throw.
Mounting a PS2
Posted by David B on September 04, 2002, 11:58pm
Gentlemen
I am looking for ideas on methods for mounting Tony's PS2's. Is it
best to build some sort of box (with adequate ventalation)?
Is there anything from digikey or radio shack that the PS2 would
easily mount to?
I am looking for different methods that people have used.
Thank you
Re: Mounting a PS2
Posted by Ed McCamey on September 05, 2002, 02:06pm
At our club, we use some short aluminium stand off (small pipe
like stubs) and just open air mount underneath the benchwork
using some small (but long) wood screws. Why spend time and
money on something that's not necessary!
Re: Re: Mounting a PS2
Posted by e bradbury on September 06, 2002, 11:48am
the small mounts mentioned may be obtained from Tru-Valve
hardware store in either aluminum or nylon & different lengths.
Look in their special fastener display near the loose screw/bolt/
nut/washer display/bins.
Re: Re: Re: Mounting a PS2
Posted by David on September 18, 2002, 07:41pm
All of my PS2's are mounted to the benchwork using 1/2" nylon
standoffs I got from Jameco.
DH150Atlas
Posted by Anthony on August 26, 2002, 02:10pm
Is this the Right decoder for a Atlas RS-11 (eq /w DCC LightBrd)
The DH150A does not Fit between the Front and back Metal
Weight, thus does not line-up with Vertical posts. I have not
diassembled my engine, don't think I should have too (Kit-bash).
Any suggestions/Other manufactures decoders? (I read the article
posted @ Tony's regarding a modify 8-pin decoder to retro fit the
original LightBrd) what decoder would that be?)
Re: DH150Atlas
Posted by Jason on August 27, 2002, 01:23pm
Make sure u have the decoder facing the right direction. The
decoder is offset and will only fit one way. Nce also offers a
direct replacement decodet the Nce
DASR. Good luck.
double crossover problem
Posted by alco rs3 on August 18, 2002, 05:08pm
has anyone had problems useing walthers double cross overs? we
are having a short occur when the engine crosses the halfway point.
we are using northcoast. the switch meters ok until it is installed
then shows a short,the rest of railroad works fine,without any
evidence of shorting. this problem has occured with 3 other
crossovers. hope it isn't going to require gapping.
Re: double crossover problem
Posted by Jim on August 18, 2002, 11:50pm
I Had to cut gaps in all of the rails across the center of the
crossover assembly on my layout to get it to work properly.
Re: double crossover problem
Posted by Dale Gloer on August 19, 2002, 07:32am
I had problems until I set it up so all the points moved together.
That is, I make all points move for crossing over or all points set
for going straight. This eleiminated the short circuit problem.
There is no reason not to do this as when crossing over only one
train can occupy the crossover at a time. Dale.
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42
Re: Re: double crossover problem
Posted by DonV on August 19, 2002, 03:36pm
I second what Dale said.
There are 2 separate problems.
1) Steel wheel treads hit the opposite polarity rail as they travel
over the frog point.
2) There is a metal electrical tie strap at the botom of the plastic
flangeway at the frog that may be exposed.
Both problems go away when you flip all 4 switches to be either
straight or to cross over. 4 slo-mo switch machines wired in
parallel do the job nicely.
DonV
culprit is that there is a
Loco Net wire
Posted by Dave on August 16, 2002, 03:35pm
Can the LocoNet 6 wire cable be in a basicly round cable wraping
or does it have to be in a flat cable?
Re: Loco Net wire
Posted by Johnnie C. Scott on August 19, 2002, 05:21pm
The flat cable that is used is basically telephone base cord. Any 6
conductor cable can be used. It seems to me that twisted pair
telephone cable would be even better than the silver-satin. I'm a
telephone technician by profession.
Re: Re: Loco Net wire
Posted by Dave on August 19, 2002, 07:49pm
Johnnie, What do you mean by silver-satin?
Re: Re: Re: Loco Net wire
Posted by Johnnie C. Scott on August 20, 2002, 02:26pm
Sorry. Silver-satin is just telephone guy talk for the flat basecord
type of telephone wire. It is generally grey or silverish in
color.
Re: Loco Net wire
Posted by dick foster on August 25, 2002, 11:22pm
You could also use CAT 5 wire which is available at Home
Depot and most RS stores.
You can get six wire cable pre made in 25 and 50 foot lengths.
Re: Re: Loco Net wire
Posted by Johnnie C. Scott on August 27, 2002, 02:59pm
CAT-5 is by definition an 8 conductor cable used primarily in
computer hookups. It has a much tighter twist than ordinary
voice-grade cable.
Stewart S-12
Posted by Jason on August 14, 2002, 04:06pm
I was wondering if Tony's will be offering the new Baldwin S-12
from Stewart.
Peco Insulfrogs
Posted by Jim Kendig on August 14, 2002, 12:38pm
Well guys, I started all this discussion and appreciate all of the in
put. I have decided to abandon insulfrogs from here on out and use
electrofrogs with NCE Switch It and jumpers to the frog through
contacts on the switch machines. I talked with Pete Postel of BLW (
N Scale Mail Order House) and he referred me to the following
web site, which has loads of good information about wiring all
kinds of Turnouts for DCC: http://www.wiringfordcc.com
Thanks again.
Re: Peco Insulfrogs
Posted by Jacques W. on August 14, 2002, 01:09pm
Well Jim, thanks for having started this tread, I found it very
instructive and positive. Thanks also for the internet site.
peco switches
Posted by Bob Miller on August 12, 2002, 11:51pm
Dennis, I don't doubt what you say happens on your layout, but I
believe you are using NCE as I am. So what is the difference that I
don't seem to have the problem and you do? I have a pot full of
Atlas products running, and honestly, I don't detect any shorting.
Bob
Programming software for Soundtraxx
Posted by pharmd on August 07, 2002, 07:18pm
Presently, we are using computerized decoder programming
software by Tannersoft and find it adequate for the DSD and DSX
decoders. However, the software fails to completely program some
of our Soundtraxx decoders such as the DSD-AT100LC and our
other LC decoders. Could you guys recommend software which
programs the LC decoders or does it sound like we are doing
something wrong? Thanks
Bellingham Society of Model Engineers
Broadway Limited Sound
Posted by pharmd on August 06, 2002, 09:53am
Has anyone on this board actually heard the sound from one of the
Broadway Limited steam engines? In your opinion how does it
compare to the Soundtraxx steam sound? Thanks.
Re: Broadway Limited Sound
Posted by Bill Gaver on August 12, 2002, 08:33am
Heard/viewed Broadway Limited
operating at Tony's last week.
For someone who has a number of
locos w/Soundtraxx decoders, I
was very impressed. Added my
name to reservation purchase list.
Availability this coming fall.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

NCE Switch-it problem
Posted by Gif Sander on August 05, 2002, 10:57am
Using an NCE Switch-it on a Digitrax Chief system. Switch-it
appears to "go to sleep" on only one of its outputs. It does not react
to commands, but output remains energized. The other output works
fine. Eventually comes back. Problem floats between outputs. No
other issues with any other devices at the time of the problem. Any
ideas? It's my first Switch-it.
KATO SD90
Posted by John on July 30, 2002, 09:09pm
Does anyone have experience with DCC on these engines? Has
KATO installed yellow LED's or white ones? Which decoder works
best??
Thanks.
Re: KATO SD90
Posted by Jacques W. on July 31, 2002, 09:47am
John,
I installed an NCE KRS-SR decoder in one of them, Tony's
TTX/RS2 is also the same decoder. It is a plug and play affair
and works just fine.
Make sure you correct one of the motor lead to avoid shorts that
will burn the decoder. See Tony's Tips or the Kato Site on that
matter. What I did is simply unclip the motor lead and cut 1/16 of
an inch with cissor, a few minutes job.
That engine use white led.
Re: Re: KATO SD90
Posted by Jacques W. on July 31, 2002, 11:23am
John,
I forgot to mention in my previous posting, that I was referring
to the HO version of the engine.
Peco Insulfrog Turnouts
Posted by Jim Kendig on July 28, 2002, 09:20pm
My layout is DCC and the Insulfrogs were recommended by
Tony's. I have a yard with approximately 15 medium turnouts in
place. I am experiencing stalling over the frogs at low speed while
switching the yard and assembling trains. I always understood that a
loco would keep running if one truck was in contact with the rails
and current. Such does not seem to be the case here. Even dual
consists get the same result. At the moment I am operating Atlas
SD-35's, Kato E-s' and PA's as well as ER Sharks. The Sharks do
better surprisingly. The rails are clean and all joints are soldered and
smooth. Has anyone else had this experience and have any
suggestions?
Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
Jim Kendig
Monteagle, Tennessee
Re: Peco Insulfrog Turnouts
Posted by Don H. on July 29, 2002, 12:57pm
How are you supplying power to your turnouts? Are you using
just the turnout points to route Power? We use the same turnouts
at out club layout and we put a pair of track feeders in front of
each and every turnout with insulating joiners as needed.
You need at least one pickup wheel ON EACH SIDE of the loco
to be making contact in order to supply electricity to the motor,
even if you have a DCC decoder.
Re: Peco Insulfrog Turnouts
Posted by Gale Saxton on July 30, 2002, 12:53pm
Your problem is exactly why I never use insulfrogs! The
problem is a wheel bridging the narrow gap between the frog
point rails. The two rails are opposite polarity at this point and
wheels, especially on 6-axle or longer engines will always create
an intermittent short.
I have approx 50 electrofogs, 50 Walthers, and approx 30
handlaid turnouts which all work much better. With electofrogs,
I always power the frogs thru a micro switch and don't rely on
the point contacts for powering the frog. The little bit of extra
work up front will eliminate many downstream poblems!
Good Luck
Re: Re: Peco Insulfrog Turnouts
Posted by Jim Kendig on July 30, 2002, 01:09pm
Gale and Don:
Thank you. Through more investigation, Gale hit the nail on the
head. Thats my problem.
Do you operate the micro switches through accessory decoders
controlled by your cabs?
Thank you both again.
Re: Re: Re: Peco Insulfrog Turnouts
Posted by John on July 30, 2002, 09:00pm
Hold on here. While I don't disagree with Gale using
Electrofrogs, I have a large yard built completely with Insulrog
turnouts with no operations problems. The prior comment on
adding additional feeders is important, as well as ensuring all
wheel pickup. I have only one Insulfrog switch (curved) which
exhibits the issue mentioned (shorting), that switch being located
at the bottom of a 2.5% grade.
Insulfrogs will prevent the need to install all those additional
switches, to route power, and I've just ensured that I add feeders
on the points after the frog.
Good luck, you can e-mail if you'd like to ask me questions at
orminski@hotmail.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: Peco Insulfrog Turnouts
Posted by Jacques W. on July 31, 2002, 11:01am
Hi John,
While I don't disagree with you I am 100% with Gale, in HO of
course.
The shorting experienced by Jim, will not likely occur with short
insulfrog Peco switchs, you will see it with medium and long
size Peco's. I myself only use all rail frogs turnouts.
A precaution a modeler should always use is to gap both
diverging routes of the frog, regardless of the brand ant type of
switches used.
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44
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Peco Insulfrog Turnouts
Posted by Gale Saxton on July 31, 2002, 04:49pm
John and Jacques,
I agree that the problem is worse with the larger radii turnouts. I
had a layout 20 years ago with small radius insulfrogs that
worked fairly wel. I now use 100% large if possible and only
electrofrog.
I have seen some people do a temp fix by painting over the frog
points or by gluing small pieces of thin mylar over them. This of
course creates dead spots which is not too good but will solve
the shorting problem.
I power my frogs using either switch machine contacts or under
table cherry micro switch for the hand thrown.
Good Luck,
Gale
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Peco Insulfrog Turnouts
Posted by Bob P. on August 01, 2002, 01:11pm
Gale,
I've had similar issues to those described in this e-mail thread.
What kind of linkage do you use between the microswitch that is
mounted below the table and the groundthrow?
Thanks,
Bob
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Peco Insulfrog Turnout
Posted by Gale s. on August 03, 2002, 01:34pm
Bob,
Kind of hard to describe since it is all hand made.
I use a Cherry 33 microswitch version which has a flat lever on
the side. A .030" music wire pin is attatched at 90 degrees to the
lever so that it sticks up thru the hole in the turnout throw bar
center. The microswitch is epoxied to a thin plywood mounting
plate which has slots and then lays flat under the plywood and
allows for side-to-side adjustment. The total thickness below the
plywood is then less than .75" so it can install over any tracks
below.
I picked up about 50 of these switches years ago at a clearance
house and don't know if they are still available.
Good luck,
Gale
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Peco Insulfrog Tur
Posted by Bob Miller on August 05, 2002, 09:06am
Well guys, I have a fairly large 3 deck layout which has a lot of
insulfrog Pecos, some as much as 10 years old, all wide radius
and I do not have stall problems at the frogs. I do, once in a
while, take a swab with a little cleaner on it and rub the contacts
on the points to insure good contact, but mosts of the pecos I use
are hand throws, without any motors, and without any leads.
Go figure.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Peco Insulfrog
Posted by Jacques W. on August 05, 2002, 10:14am
Hi Bob,
I would like to know if you are using DC or DCC and if you
gap both diverging branches of the frog.
Thanks
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Peco Insul
Posted by Bob Miller on August 05, 2002, 02:52pm
Yes, I use NCE, and no, I don't gap all of the switches. Just
those requiring it.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Peco I
Posted by Bob Miller on August 05, 2002, 02:54pm
A PS to my last reply. My railroad was originally set up for
Dynatrol Command control. Jim Scorse told me when I
switched over that if the railroad ran okay with Dynatrol, it
would do the same with NCE and he has been correct. I do use
some Shinohara switches, but have pretty much switched all
new work to Peco.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pe
Posted by Dennis Lippert on August 12, 2002, 02:32pm
The reason DCC shows up this problem, is the extremely qwick
trip-times on the short-circuit protection used for modern DCC.
(Dynatrol, or dc, would not exhibit this phenomenon). I have
one staging yard that has a mixture of old and new Peco
Insulfrogs (all LONG radius), and certain locos will DEFI-
NITELY short on the frog almost at low speeds all the time.
(Atlas's new stuff, for one). There are even a few metal-wheeled
freightcars that will short out.
While live-frog turnouts are undeniably a better approach, they
have their own problems with shorting in the point area with
certain turnouts and equipment. They also require MUCH more
wiring complexity. I have settled on using cheap Atlas Code 83
track as a good simple approach. It doesn't look quite as nice as
ME or Shinohara, but it's been 100% problem-free thus far.
Den
Athearn 2-8-2 problem
Posted by Matt Given on July 28, 2002, 07:20pm
I just purchased an Athearn 2-8-2. When i placed on a straigt test
track it runs but once every revolution of the wheels there is a
popping sound and the whole engine jumps momentarily. After
reading great reviews on how well this engine runs I am very
dissapointed. Before I send it back thought I would see if you have
any suggestions.
Re: Athearn 2-8-2 problem
Posted by russ on July 28, 2002, 09:17pm
Matt; it sounds like a driver set is out of quarter. If you are not
comfortable with dealing with all of the valve train , or do not
have a NWSL Quarterer ,I would take it back to the dealer that
you bought it from.
Re: Athearn 2-8-2 problem
Posted by John on July 30, 2002, 09:06pm
Matt,
You may also want to ensure that the little screws that hold the
drivers into the wheels aren't loose, they'll catch on each
revolution. I had the same problem on a Rivarossi Challenger
and tightening the screws solved the problem.
Good luck.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

DS54 and PowerHouse Pro
Posted by Soren on July 16, 2002, 11:53am
Hi BBS
Does anybody know if one can get the feedback function of the
DS54 to work with a PowerHouse Pro command station.
If possible how did you wire the DS54 to the PH Pro Command
Station ??
rev. loop question
Posted by Marty on July 15, 2002, 06:45pm
It a reversing loop, is there a way to have a train enter the loop and
exit it with automatic throws so you can run the loop to loop layput
with manning it each time it enters a rev loop?
Re: rev. loop question
Posted by Ed McCamey on July 16, 2002, 01:25pm
Marty,
Yes. With DCC you can use reversing loop controllers for the
rail power changes and current sensing module(s) with relay
logic to control the turnout. This is provided of course that the
loop is large enough to contain the largest length train you
anticipate and your cars all have some resistance accross the
wheels so the sensing module(s) can activate the turnout control
properly.
Re: rev. loop question
Posted by DonV on July 16, 2002, 03:45pm
For fully automatic operation you will need an automatic track
polarity reverser AND a way to throw the track loop switch at
each end.
You can get by with only 1 DCC auto-reverser controlling both
end loops if you will never have two trains simultaneously
crossing the auto-reverse rail gaps.
The loop enter-exit track switches require some way to prevent
the train from running into the switch when it is thrown the
wrong way. You will need 2 position sensors to toggle the
switch machine as the engine approaches the switch. IR-Dot has
such a gadget. There are others. If the sensor to switch distance
is short, you may need a solenoid snap-switch type switch
machine, as a slo-mo switch motor (like Tortoise) may not be
fast enough to prevent derailments.
Re: Re: rev. loop question
Posted by Gif Sander on August 05, 2002, 10:51am
I have sucessfully done this using a Digitrax DS54 and (4)
BD1's. Works like a charm. Your loop needs to be split into 3
blocks. You need short blocks on both sides of the switch to
detect which direction you are approaching. These trigger the
DS54 to throw the switch in the appropriate direction. These
blocks should be long enough to allow detection and time for the
switch throw. One of these short blocks is also the one you wire
as the reversing block. gif.sander@bookspan.com
Atlas System
Posted by Kristian on July 12, 2002, 10:23pm
I'm getting into DCC and thought the Atlas seemed a good choice it
has the walkaround ports and throttles and seems to be a good
system. Any comments?
PS Rev
Posted by Earl on July 11, 2002, 05:23pm
I am new to DCC and want to install your PS rev to a Digitax 150.
What does you mean when you say input is DCC 1 and DCC 2?
Are they the same connections from the power source to the 150?
efphipps@worldnet.att.net
Re: PS Rev
Posted by Dale Gloer on July 12, 2002, 07:29am
DCC1 and DCC2 are the same as RAIL A and RAIL B on the
Digitrax boosters
Dale.
Re: PS Rev
Posted by Stan on July 12, 2002, 05:01pm
Earl, It's easier to use the MRC Auto Reverse Module, two
wires in and two out, it works great. Stan
Re: Re: PS Rev
Posted by Earl on July 13, 2002, 04:23pm
Thanks guys. Sometimes simple is hard to comprehend.
E
A short somewhere?
Posted by David Holl on July 04, 2002, 09:56pm
My engine was running very slow all of a sudden, while I could
barely hear a sizzle sound from the track. I have one Chief for about
200 feet of track. The farther away the engine got from the
command station the slower it got. But the faint sound of the sizzle
(common to a short) has me puzzled. I thought engines would not
run if there was a short. Suggestions or answers??
Re: A short somewhere?
Posted by graeme on July 05, 2002, 01:40am
you say you have 200 ft of track, i hope you have several
feeders fed from a heavy bus wire, if not the track furtherest
from the feeders may not be getting enough power to detect a
short and in turn shut down your 'Chief; which is what it is
supposed to do, try shorting across your track in several
locations (with a coin or screwdriver) your chief should shut
down & beep several times to tell you you have a short. if it
doesn,t shut down you will need to add extra feeders.( I have
found feeders every 6-8 feet works for me)I would also be
taking a close look at your decoder equipped loco,there could be
a thin strand of wire bridging a couple of terminals & if you
keep runing it the decoder will blow,( if it hasn't allready)Try
running a non decodered loco & see what happens,if still a
problem the fault is probably in your wiring or improper
placement of rail gaps,also be on the lookout for a reversing
section in your trackwork. best wishes from OZ.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 45

46
Re: Re: A short somewhere?
Posted by David Holl on July 05, 2002, 08:08am
Yes, I have feeders about every 6 to 10 feet from each. I tried
three different engines to see what was going on. My command
station was getting very warm, something that it hasn't done
before.
Re: A short somewhere?
Posted by bradbury on July 08, 2002, 11:58am
Some additional thoughts. Have you installed any new
trackwork? Any wye's or return loops. any turnouts that need
both rails isolated or for some odd reason the points are
energized by both rails at the same time due to a damaged
contact? any cars that have metal wheels that may be shorting?
How about out-of adjustment switch machine contacts?
Re: Re: A short somewhere?
Posted by David Holl on July 09, 2002, 12:10pm
I replaced a single crossover with 2 new Atlas code 83 turnouts.
I don't need to gap these , do I? There are no wye's or reverse
loops. Also, my Chief command station gets very warm quickly.
This has me stumped.
Re: Re: Re: A short somewhere?
Posted by Johnnie C. Scott on July 09, 2002, 04:59pm
I think you need to insulate the connections between the two
Atlas switches. I believe they are common to the stock rail on
each side which would put a short on the junction.
Re: Re: Re: Re: A short somewhere?
Posted by David Holl on July 12, 2002, 11:19am
The turnouts that I replaced with Atlas were Shinahara and
consequently had to have gaps between them. When I installed
the Atlas ones, that carried electricity to another set of Shinahara
turnouts that also were not gaped. When I cut a gap between
them, my short was eliminated. Thanks for all your help.
ROCO HO MODELS
Posted by DAVE on June 30, 2002, 10:22pm
I HAVE COME ACROSS SOME ROCO TRAINS STILL IN
THE BOX THEY CAME IN. WONDERING WHAT THEY ARE
WORTH OR WHAT TO DO WITH THEM. WOULD
APPRICIATE SOME ADVISE AS THEY ALL LOOK NEW
AND SMALL PARTS PACKAGES HAVE NOT EVEN BEEN
OPENED.
1. ET90 ELEKTRO-TRIEBZUG HO 04185A ON SIDE OF CAR
ET 9002 MADE IN AUSTRIA
2. BR 1670 OBB-ELEKTROLOKOMOTIVE HO 04147A
LOCOMOTIVE ON ENGINE OBB 1670.26
3. HO 4203B CAR, ON CAR BI 37446
4. HO 4201B CAR, ON CAR BIPHO 37312
5. HO 4204B FREIGHT CAR, ON CAR DUH 65114
THERE IS A STICKER ON TWO OF THE BOXES THAT SAY
PAULS MODEL RR SHOP, AMRO LTD. INSPECTED AND
TESTED 3/29/84 AND THE OTHER 4/6/84.
WHAT ARE THEY WORTH? TRYING TO DECIDE WHAT TO
DO WITH THEM. I MAY JUST KEEP THEM AS I HAVE A
LIONAL TRAIN THAT MY PARENTS GAVE ME IN 1946.
SCHIEF01@MSN.COM
PSI Dynatrol
Posted by Mike Dickinson on June 20, 2002, 07:46pm
Hello Does anyone know of somebody who does installion of
receiver for this system Mike Dickinson
spectrum 44toner
Posted by graeme on June 16, 2002, 05:30am
i have just ordered a new release spect. 44 ton, supposed to be dcc
ready,i havnt seen inside one yet so can someone tell me what
decoder it will take? prefer silent/ quiet drive. thank you.
Re: spectrum 44toner
Posted by Dale Gloer on June 17, 2002, 07:37am
I installed a Digitrax DN121 in one of the new 44 toners. There
is not very much noise from the motor - I don't think a "silent
drive" decoder would make very much difference.
There is a cicuit board in the loco with seven solder pads along
one edge. There are two clips connecting some of the pads
together. Just remove the clips and solder the decoder wires to
them. The decoder sits on top the motor with plenty of room.
Dale
Re: Re: spectrum 44toner
Posted by graeme on June 21, 2002, 02:55am
To Dale, thanks for the reply Dale. you say there is plenty of
room for a dn121 on top of the motor,do you think there is
enough room for a dh121? I have several.Thank you.(the reason
i havnt seen inside one yet is i live in australia & it will take a
few weeks to get here)
Re: Re: Re: spectrum 44toner
Posted by Dale Gloer on June 21, 2002, 07:35am
Graeme,
the DH121 is considerably bigger than the DN121 and there is
not ehough room to install one inthe 44 tonner.
Dale.
Re: spectrum 44toner
Posted by Davie on July 15, 2002, 12:23pm
I would also suggest the LE0511.
You can choose Silent Drive or Precision Glide Control for
smooth low speed operation. It has 128 speed steps, two on/off
function outputs with a current rating of 100 mA each and
special lighting effects. Best of all, it's tiny â “ L 0.53" x W
0.39" x H 0.14"
stationary dec./twin-coils
Posted by Dave Palmer on June 11, 2002, 05:28pm
Can anyone recommend a stationary decoder that can handle two
Rix switch machines on a single output? I know I can throw two
machines simultaneously with a 4700uf capacitor and an 18V
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

power supply, but a CVP AD4 decoder can't handle the current. I
can't tell from reading the TTX reviews of the various decoders.
If you're planning a CTC system and you have a lot of main line,
two-switch crossovers, the one-machine limit on decoders can be a
handicap.
Thanks.
Zephyr functions ???
Posted by George on June 10, 2002, 09:02pm
Your new DCC comparison table says that the new Zephyr system
will have 5 functions, whlie your "Decoder Wars" info says it can
access 0-8 (9 functions).
Which is correct ????
Thanks!
- George
Re: Zephyr functions ???
Posted by George on June 16, 2002, 11:16am
Ahh - NOW they match!
Thanks for the corrections to the DCC comparisons.
Digitrax TF-2 troubles?
Posted by Larry Lawler on June 07, 2002, 11:24pm
To the best of anyone's knowledge, are there any reported quirks
regarding program address and lighting functions with the new
Digitrax TF-2 transpoding/function only decoders? I've encountered
some pretty quirky behavior attempting tp program these things.
They are also very prone to losing their memory for some reason.
MRC
Posted by None on May 28, 2002, 01:34pm
Anyone have a MRC Prodigy system?
What decoders does it work with?
What all do I need to do to hook it up?
Thanks.
Re: MRC
Posted by Michel Wright on June 06, 2002, 11:11pm
I was a bad man... I bought a Prodigy system three days ago and
I am going to sell it and order a Super Empire Builder setup
from Tony ! To get a full walkaround use of the system you need
to put outlets around your layout, Well it takes the Cat-5 cable (8
wire and not the standard 6 wire . MORE MONEY ! For me to
wire up the layout I would need to spend an other $200.00 I can
get IR with the EB set and be more cost effective with many
more options
Re: Re: MRC
Posted by Johnnie C. Scott on June 07, 2002, 04:53pm
I don't see $200. for wiring up with CAT-5. The cable is only
about 8 cents a foot if you buy it in 1000' reels. ($80.00). The
plugs are only about $10 for a box of 100, jacks are $1.50 to
$4.00 apiece and a good crimper is available at Radio Shack for
$35.00. Since you would only need about 100' of wire($8.00)
and maybe 10 plugs ($1.00) and 4 or 5 jacks ($20.00) I only see
about $65.00 outlay.
Lionel Long Island #8367
Posted by Gregg Gannett on May 14, 2002, 10:36pm
Does any one know where I can find a Lionel GP-20 dummy unit
#8367 to match my #8360? Any help is appreciated.
gforcefilms@att.net
Atlas S4 (NCE-TTX ATLS4) Decoder Installation
Posted by L. Poplin on May 06, 2002, 10:35am
The install went smooth until time to put the shell back on. The
main body shell fits fine. It's the cab that doesn't want to snap back
in place. The back of the decoder board presses against the top-back
of the cab not allowing the front-bottom of the cab base to sit flush
and snap in place. I examined the decoder board and trimmed away
some excess off of the break-away area. But I could not trim too
much since there is an IC right at the edge. Also, when placing the
cab back on the unit, I was also trying my best not to allow the
decoder board to be flexed downward. It seems that since it is a
very snug fit, it scrapes against the clear plastic on this inside of the
cab. I have not investigated whether this plastic windowing can be
removed to allow for more room. I also loosened the top metal
screw holding the decoder to the motor and tried to push the
decoder forward as much as possible. Anyone else have a fit
problem with this new decoder? Any other modifications needed?
Re: Atlas S4 (NCE-TTX ATLS4) Decoder Installation
Posted by R Meier on June 06, 2002, 10:40am
I would just file a small portion of the Atlas cab or window glass
to get the cab to fit on. The amount you file off should not be
noticed to much as long as you file an even line across the
section where the cab meets hood.
Proto 2000 E8/9
Posted by Terry on May 04, 2002, 11:57pm
I'm trying to help out a club member by picking out a decoder for
his Proto 2000 E8/9. The Life Like box doesn't say anything about
being DCC ready but I'm hoping that there's a board replacement
that will work. I guess I'll also have to replace the lights for him as I
have with all other Protos. If anyone has converted an E8/9 to
DCC,I'd appreciate your input. Thanks
Terry
Re: Proto 2000 E8/9
Posted by DB on May 13, 2002, 01:37pm
No the E8/9's aren't DCC ready. They require hardwiring. I used
Digitrax DH121 in 4 of mine. Go to the Digitrax website http://
www.digitrax.com and they have instructions for wiring the
locomotive. I kept the original Mars light, wiring it up to one
function and replaced the headlight bulb with a 3VDC (brighter)
that I run off the other function.
new web page
Posted by hank on May 03, 2002, 11:59am
glad to know that I was not the only that could'n find the message
board
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 47

NCE Wireless Cab Addresses
Posted by Ken G. on May 03, 2002, 10:23am
I spoke to Jim at NCE about a problem with the Pro Cab. If you set
the cab address as 04 or 08, you may experience a sudden runaway
because the base station thinks the speed is set at 125. Jim thinks
this is a bit match problem and is woking on it. If you are experiencing
this problem, set your cabs at some other address and the
problem will go away. Jim also said that it is safe to use address 02
as they are no longer reserving it.
life like
Posted by Fred on April 30, 2002, 09:29pm
can someone tell me why life like does not have headlights that
work with DCC. bought one of there steam locos and spent 4 hours
fixing blown bulb
48
Re: life like
Posted by ed bradbury on May 01, 2002, 11:44am
I think I can answer your question. I called LifeLike about bulb
current draw for DCC installation I was doing. What does this
have to do with your question.
HEAT !!! Reduce possible damage to body shell and light bar.
Also a 12v bulb is very bright and will light up the cab and track
under the body unrealistically unless you install light traps/
shields.
By the way, the lifelike bulb/wire connection is very short so that
the truck geat tower will swing without contacting the wires in
an F7.
Re: life like
Posted by ed bradbury on May 01, 2002, 11:59am
PS: LL recommended 40ma bulbs maximum
BBS doesn't display
Posted by Dale Gloer on April 29, 2002, 07:35am
The new BBS design doesn't work for me. I use Netscape 4.77 as
my browser. When I select the message board the title page displays
correctly but when I select a message from the list, I get a blank
page. The page isn't totally blank, the TTX header appears but no
message is displayed. I also have
IE 5.0 (which is what I am using now to write this) and the
messages display correctly using IE. However, I want to use
Netscape.
Dale Gloer
Re: BBS doesn't display
Posted by Jacques W. Lajoie on April 29, 2002, 09:21am
Dale, I have the same problem with Nescape 4.77. You will have
to use a new version of Nescape to correct this.
Re: Re: BBS doesn't display
Posted by Kent G. on April 29, 2002, 10:11am
Netscape 4.08 and Win 98 running here, everything looks fine. I
like the new web site too.
Kent
Re: BBS doesn't display
Posted by Christian Olesen on April 29, 2002, 01:59pm
Dale,
I'm using Netscape® Communicator 4.76 and it works fine.
Christian
Re: BBS doesn't display
Posted by Dale Gloer on April 30, 2002, 08:00am
I sent the same message to Tony's info email address and today
everything is working! Thanks Tony.
Dale.
New Web Page Style
Posted by Don H. on April 26, 2002, 12:07pm
The new web page style looks really nice. Keep up the good work.
Don H.
Re: New Web Page Style
Posted by Stan on April 27, 2002, 10:14am
Don, the old site was much better, sorry to disagree with with
you.
Re: Re: New Web Page Style
Posted by Jim on April 27, 2002, 12:29pm
Stan, what is it you don't like about the new layout??? I've been
visiting this site and buying from Tony for a few years now and
his old site was a nightmare if you tried to find anything. Now
you are a click away from just about anything, plus it does
LOOK better compared to the old disorganized mess (sorry
Tony if you read this).
Re: Re: New Web Page Style
Posted by Don H. on April 27, 2002, 07:40pm
Stan; sorry to hear that. Web page design is a very subjective
subject. I like it because the colors have been toned down alot
and things are more organized and consistant from page to page.
I will admit though, it did take me a couple of minutes to find the
link to the message board.
Re: Re: Re: New Web Page Style
Posted by ed on May 17, 2002, 12:00pm
New web page looks good. However i am having the following
problems:
1) messages dated after 5/01/02 do not show on message board
index. I have to press "Start"
2) the site, message board, and messages take a lot longer to load
Any help or suggestions?
Re: Re: Re: Re: New Web Page Style
Posted by Don H. on May 22, 2002, 10:41pm
I'm not having any of those problems. Some postings in another
thread have indicated that it might be a problem with an older
version of your browser. What are you using?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Tony's Power Shield
Posted by Jack on April 17, 2002, 06:59am
Do these units have an indication that the block is drawing some
power? i.e., an "Occupancy Detector" function?
Re: Tony's Power Shield
Posted by Ken Ruof on April 17, 2002, 11:17am
No
Installing Power Pax booster
Posted by R. Koebel on April 06, 2002, 03:05pm
The booster has two grey wires (or blue), one orange, one brown,
one red, and one black. The Keller throttle has two blues, one
orange and one brown. Each motor has one red, and one black.
How are all these wires supposed to be connected such that two
motored Life like units will run off the one Keller Throttle?
Installing Power Pax booster
Posted by R. Koebel on April 06, 2002, 03:05pm
the booster has two grey wires (or blue), one orange, one brown,
one red, and one black. The Keller throttle has two blues, one
orange and one brown. Each motor has one red, and one black.
How are all these wires supposed to be connected such that two
motored Life like units will run off the one Keller Throttle?
Re: Installing Power Pax booster
Posted by Bob Miller` on April 06, 2002, 05:34pm
Perhaps I can help, but I can't really tell what you are talking
about. Are you referring to DCC and a decoder, and what Keller
throttle are you talking about?
Re: Re: Installing Power Pax booster
Posted by R. Koebel on April 06, 2002, 07:06pm
Thanks for the response. Keller throttle is a T1. The Power Pax
Booster has previously been sold by TTX. It is designed to
protect a T1 installation from overheating, by essentially
allowing it to run cold. The Booster can also be used in
conjunction with a T1 and more than one motor in a multiple unit
lash-up. For example, one booster and one T1 throttle can
control two powered units in a two unit lash-up from single
throttle's channel designation. I thought I knew how to wire
them together, but have just been blowing fuses on my test track.
The throttle has track power feeders (blue) and orange and
brown (to motor). The booster has another set of blues, and also
red, black, orange and brown wires. I assume the orange to
orange; and brown to brown are connected. The red and black of
the booster connect into the two motors somehow, I assume.
How does track power get to both via the blues? I have not been
able to figure out. This is my dilemma.
Re: Re: Re: Installing Power Pax booster
Posted by Bob Miller on April 06, 2002, 11:31pm
Sorry then, I can't help. I am strictly DCC user, and don't know
anything about the components you are using. I would email or
call Tony direct.
Bob
Re: Re: Re: Re: Installing Power Pax booster
Posted by STAN on April 07, 2002, 01:55pm
Why don't you just make your life easier and more fun, go to
DCC
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Installing Power Pax booster
Posted by R. Koebel on April 08, 2002, 05:17pm
Tony provided info this afternoon by phone that solved the
problem.
Installing Power Pax booster
Posted by R. Koebel on April 06, 2002, 03:05pm
the booster has two grey wires (or blue), one orange, one brown,
one red, and one black. The Keller throttle has two blues, one
orange, one brown, one red, and one black. How are all these wires
supposed to be connected such that two motored Life like units will
run off the one Keller Throttle?
NCE Switchit Decoders
Posted by Mike Warren on April 04, 2002, 02:00pm
Has anyone used the NCE Switchit Decodors with Switchmaster
motors?
If so, is there any special things I should know?
Thanx.
Atlas Decoders
Posted by ed Bradbury on April 03, 2002, 12:07pm
My question is: Why does Atlas decoders require changing their
plug to go from analog to DCC and vise versa when NCE, Lenze,
etc accomplish this through CV29 settings?
Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by DonV on April 03, 2002, 01:42pm
There are advantages and disadvantages both ways.
W/ Lenz, NCE, and others you can program the decoder to autoselect
DC operation when the decoder doesn't see any DCC
communication signal. Sounds like an ideal situation. But... 1) It
only works on 'pure' DC. Pulse power and other slow speed
schemes can cause problems. 2) There is a significant voltage
necessary to detect that it is DC, not DCC. This creates a dead
spot at reduced DC throttle settings and a jack rabbit start once
DC is recognized. 3) It may run in the wrong direction. 4) Lights
may or may not work. Certainly no fancy lighting effects.
Atlas avoids the above issues by using the decoder mode select
jumper plug to bypass the entire DCC decoder & operate the
motor directly from the rail pick ups. Works well w/ any DC
throttle system - Except there are no lights. You can do the same
thing w/ any brand decoder by wiring in your own dpdt switch
on the motor leads.
DonV
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 49

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Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by Stan on April 03, 2002, 05:41pm
Don V. You are kidding,I hope. Why does every other decoder
do this on an automatic basis, including lenz who makes the atlas
decoder?
Stan
Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by Paul on April 03, 2002, 10:45pm
Don V, This is silly to have to take your locomotive apart just to
run it on a friends layout who does not have Dcc. Every other
decoder, Digitrax, NCE and Lenz works fine in this situation,
only ATLAS requires a manual change, the rest do it automatic.
Paul
Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by Bob Miller on April 04, 2002, 12:10am
On the other hand, a lot of us don't run our locos on other
people's railroads. Seldom does anyone in my round robin group
do that, the only reason is to show a new loco, but we all have
DCC.
My guess is Atlas thinks there are more of us who don't than do.
Bob
Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by Tim on April 04, 2002, 06:59am
I think theres more to it. A company rarely does anything unless
it can make money by doing it. By doing what Atlas did, they
can market their locomotives as "decoder equipped" (for more
$$) and be more attractive to the buyers. They can also build and
sell a larger quantity of decoders that way also(cheaper in
quantity). If the decoder equipped locomotive finds its home on
a non-dcc layout then theres no differance from a non-decoder
equipped locomotive. I may be wrong, but it makes sense.
Tim
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by JOHN on April 04, 2002, 09:33am
I THINK THIS IS JUST AN ADVERTISING GIMICK TO
MAKE US THINK WE'RE GETTING SOMETHING
SPECIAL (DUAL MODE)WHEN IN FACT, OTHER
DECODERS DO THIS ALL BY THEMSELVES WITHOUT
HAVING TO CHANGE A PLUG. WHEN YOU COMPARE
IT TO THE NCE DA-SR, IT COSTS JUST AS MUCH BUT
DOESN'T HAVE AS MANY FEATURES AS THE NCE
DECODER. WHY WOULD ANYONE CARE ABOUT
RUNNING ANALOG IF YOU HAVE A DCC SYSTEM,I
AGREE, THE MONEY ASPECT IS THE REASON FOR
THIS. JOHN
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by ed bradbury on April 04, 2002, 01:46pm
Sorry about the question and some of the uproar it has caused.
let me clarify some things.
I do run my layout at home on DCC.
I also belong to a modular club that runs DC only. I do run the
decoder equiped locos on the club's layout. Once in a while the
locos will run strangely but normally run OK; the club uses two
MRC 5 amp cabs.
Overall I am please with the NCE & Lenz decoders and loco
performance.
Thanks for the info.
Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by DonV on April 05, 2002, 10:04am
Hey! Guys! Relax. The Atlas Idea is not all that bad.
The 'dual mode' jumper is accessed on their locos by lifting up a
radiator/fan part of the shell. You don't have to pull the whole
cab apart to switch modes.
It does operate better on DC when the motor is wired directly to
the track pick-ups. But you do loose lighting effects. But then
we never could get control of ditch or gyra lights w/ DC
anyway.
DonV
Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by Tomas Szoboszlai on April 07, 2002, 02:55pm
If you set the jumper plug on an Atlas decoder for DCC
operation, it will work on DCC or DC the same as other DCC
decoders. You choose in CV29 whether to disable or enable DC
operation.
The purpose of the jumper plug is to allow the user to set the
loco so the decoder is entirely out of the circuit. As mentioned,
the decoder circuitry can impact DC operation, and the jumper
plug eliminates that. The Atlas idea was to offer DCC without
any negative impact on DC operation. I recall hearing that the
Atlas decoders are basically the same as the Lenz LE103XF,
except they use the Atlas circuit board's form factor and the use
of the jumper plug to allow straight DC operation.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by John on April 08, 2002, 09:19am
Tomas, I think the bottom line is that Atlas should simply make
their locomotives DCC ready, not DCC equipped, this way we
can decide which decoder we want to use based on our
individual requirements. I'm sure this would end the controversy
over the Atlas decoders. I have friends who have removed these
decoders and replaced them with other types. We should be able
to make our own choice of decoders, I hope Atlas looks at this
message board.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by Bob Miller on April 08, 2002, 09:55am
Have to disagree (again). I have several Atlas diesels that came
with decoders. I use the NCE system, and I don't buy Atlas
decoders to "add" to other brands, but I do use the Atlas
decoders as they came with the diesels and they do just fine. I do
have Lenz decoders in other diesels. I see no reason to remove
the Atlas decoders and replace them. And I am not the only one
in my area of the world that feels the same. I think Atlas should
just leave it alone.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by ed bradbury on April 08, 2002, 12:10pm
Thanks for the input from all of you. I think we have all learned
more about these decoder equip Atlas locos. I agree with Bob
Miller. If you want to change the decoder then go ahead or use
the one that came with the loco.
Again thanks. It has help me understand thw why and how, aid
fellow club members.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by graeme on April 18, 2002, 05:15am
i agree with you john, i have several atlas locos but have not
bought any decoder equiped atlas and propably wont,i prefer to
choose my own decoder & fit one with features to suit the
loco.When you calculate the extra that the decoder equipped
locos cost & compare that to the cost of top of the range
decoders there is only acouple of dollars difference and you get a
dcoder with lots of extra features. I would like to see atlas give
us the choice --with or without,please dont someone tell me to
buy the locos and fit my choice of decoder,i am not that well of.
cheers to you all, from Australia.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by ed bradbury on April 19, 2002, 12:02pm
I have looked at the Atlas decoder manual and it appears that this
decoder is very similar to the Lenz LE103XF decoder (format &
operation)with special mounting to fit the Atlas loco.
Maybe Atlas should offer the loco with or without decoder.
However, There was some discussion where those of you out
there stated that the loco manufactures should think about
supplying decoders with their locos. Atlas stood up to the plate
and met the challange. They supplied a very good fleet decoder
that probably meets about 80-90% of the users needs. I use the
Lenz LE103XF decoder in a number of my locos. I commend
Atlas. AS with everything not everyone is happy with the
choice. If you want more then just change out the decoder.
Simple!
Remember there are others who do not feel comfortable opening
up an engine and installing the decoder.
ed
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by John on April 20, 2002, 10:02am
Ed, you make a very good point about Atlas stepping up to the
plate, however I think they just went a little too far. If a
locomotive is made DCC ready the right way as they have done
on many of their locomotives, it's very simple to just plug in a
decoder. Atlas has not been consistant, many new locos are not
DCC ready, some are and some have decoders. Just make all of
them really DCC ready and let us decide on the type of decoder
we use. Even nicer, give us a list of decoders that fit this
locomotive including their own, maybe a rebate for buying the
Atlas decoder would increase sales. The bottom line is, let us
have the choice. It's obvious we like the atlas locomotives, just
make it easier for us to decide what we want to do.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas Decoders
Posted by D Lippert on June 06, 2002, 02:39pm
Sorry for this very late response... but I just discovered the
BBS!
Atlas' decoder DOES support CV29-style DC operation when
it's jumpered to DCC mode. Thus, it is just as convenient as
anyone else's decoder in that respect. (It works, I've tried it).
But it also allows the direct-jumpered DC mode to eliminate
hesitation and other funkiness that can occur when using CV29
dc mode.
As for costs... Atlas upped the retail list of the GP locos by $10
when they added the decoder
By manufacturing the decoder in China (at a high volume with
the loco), the costs are MUCH lower than any other decoder,
and they've passed that savings along to loco buyers.
And, as has already been mentioned, they'll do the job nicely for
90% of the users. Myself? I still use 'em, but I wish they were
silent-running!
MRC Decoders on PHPro
Posted by Joe H on March 31, 2002, 11:20am
I just bought a new NCE PH Pro system to replace my old MRC
Command 2000. I'm really pleased with it but still have a lot of
AD310 decoder-equipped locos that I'd like to reprogram for the
new system. The NCE manual hints at it in the Register Programming
section but doesn't present sufficient detail to complete it.
Anybody know where I could find such information? Maybe a list
of registers for the AD310? I tried the MRC website but had no
luck.
Re: MRC Decoders on PHPro
Posted by Tim on March 31, 2002, 09:32pm
Joe,
Sorry, I have no experience with programing MRC on my PH
Pro. You could try NCE website www.ncedcc.com Customer
service should help. Maybe someone else has first hand on
MRC.
Tim
Re: MRC Decoders on PHPro
Posted by Bill Collias on April 02, 2002, 11:24pm
I have the same issue. Replaced MRC Command 2000 with
PHPro and cannot program the MRC decoder.
No help from MRC either. If any solutions, I would certainly be
appreciative as my alternative is to scrap the MRC decoders.
onboard sound
Posted by Hank on March 30, 2002, 05:26pm
Does anybody out there know if it is possible to incorporate an
onboard sound controller with DCC spec.Atlas?
Re: onboard sound
Posted by graeme on April 04, 2002, 05:23am
hi hank,the reason you have not had an answer to your ?? could
be because others like myself may be having difficulty trying to
figure just what it is you are asking. i opperate several sound
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equiped locos ,but am not sure i understand what you are
asking,cheers Graeme.
Re: onboard sound
Posted by Stan on April 04, 2002, 05:40pm
Hank, you can use soundtraxx LC decoders with your atlas set if
it's been updaded to 5 function.
Re: Re: onboard sound
Posted by Hank on April 04, 2002, 09:11pm
What I would like to find out is:can the old Onboard sound units
of which I have a couple sitting around made to operate with
Atlas DCC system
Re: Re: onboard sound
Posted by Hank on April 04, 2002, 09:20pm
Stan, I'm familiar with sountraxx and My controller has been
upgraded,however, I read some where that the output Voltage
needs to be controlled with a bridge rectifier ,which is not a
problem.I want to try and use my old Onboard sound units if
possible, maybe it's too much trouble?
HO Kato SD45 decoder
Posted by Nigel on March 30, 2002, 12:54pm
Please recommend a decoder for an HO scale Kato SD45.
Thank you
Nigel
nfmisso@cox.net
Re: HO Kato SD45 decoder
Posted by Tim on March 31, 2002, 09:28pm
Nigel,
Try North Coast D14SRP. This should be an easy plug-in job.
Sorry, I don't know if the factory lights will work or if they need
replacing.
Tim
Wireless Base Station
Posted by Bill Gaver on March 30, 2002, 12:05pm
Returned a defective NCE RB-01
wireless base station to NCE this
past Monday, March 25. Received
brand new replacement today, Saturday, March 30. Excellent
service! Hats off to NCE and TTX.
NCE radio
Posted by Bob Miller on March 28, 2002, 09:36am
Happy to report that I received a replacement base unit from NCE
for the bad one, and the radio/wireless works just great.
Thanks to Tony's and NCE.
Bob
NCE BD20 detectors
Posted by Art DeFazio on March 26, 2002, 08:04pm
Can anyone help me with wiring NCE BD20s to crossing flashers
and track signals. I got the LEDs and the detection working but
can't seem to solve the lighting of sinals and flashers through the 2
screw terminals (+ and Grnd)
Anyone using them and how ? Am I missing something and should
there be another device ? Any one got a wiring diagram that works ?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. The directions just don't do it
for me.
Thanks,
Art D.
NCE Powerhouse
Posted by jeff on March 25, 2002, 10:49pm
I have a NCE Powerhouse and a few engines from the early 80's. I
would like to use an analog engine on the layout one at a time. Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
jeff
Re: NCE Powerhouse
Posted by TomasSz on March 26, 2002, 12:44am
The info is on page 28 of the manual. See:
http://www.ncedcc.com/pdf/ph5.pdf
which dcc
Posted by mike on March 24, 2002, 10:28pm
youreally should look at north coast--- EASY Everything--- ck it
out
Re: which dcc
Posted by Dave C. on March 24, 2002, 10:53pm
Oh boy! Here we go again! If we all had the same "likes" and
"dislikes" there would only be one DCC manufacturer. I like my
DCC system and I think it is easy for ME to operate. I don't
think any I've used is difficult to use and I've tried most.
Please!
Which DCC?
Posted by HO-NUT on March 24, 2002, 03:28pm
I have been going to different places for information & I decided on
lenz Dcc.I was seriously considering the Atlas system ,and i
changed my mind ,the choices being Digitrax or Lenz.My 11 YR.
old son & I looked at these two & we heard a lot of good things
about both .My son said point blank he did not like the
digitraxcontroller because it was too complicated & I had to
agree.So it will be a Lenz unit 4 Us.< the knob based throttle>
Re: Which DCC?
Posted by DonV on March 25, 2002, 11:19am
Did you look at NCE? It is hard to beat for ease of use.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Which DCC?
Posted by ed bradbury on March 25, 2002, 11:59am
I use EasyDCC by CVP products. Their handhelds are easy to
operate. The command station includes two throttles with 8
functions and decoder programing with the ability to addon
walk-around or radio throttles. Only limitation is handheld
throttles have only 4 functions. My 11yr old son had 3 friends
over & they were operating the layout in no time. I operate steam
& desiel with lenz, NCE & Soundtraxx decoders.
Have fun with the system you choose.
NCE Radio
Posted by Paul on March 22, 2002, 01:01pm
I just got my NCE radio update for my Power House, it seems to
have some problems commuciating when I use two handhelds at the
same time. Is anyone else having the same problem? Paul
Re: NCE Radio
Posted by Bob Miller on March 22, 2002, 09:34pm
Boy do I? Same problem, one cab works fine, two or three and
chaos, trains started running every which way. Have others tell
me same by email. Some software glitch according to Tony.
Re: Re: NCE Radio
Posted by Stan on March 23, 2002, 10:41am
Bob & Paul, same problems, I called the company where I
bought mine, they said the system is so new they have only been
informed of this problem in the last day or two. They said they
would try to find out about the problem from NCE as soon as
possible. After waiting so long, I hope it's only some minor
problem. As soon as I hear back from them I will let you all
know what they say. Stan
Re: Re: Re: NCE Radio
Posted by Bob Miller on March 23, 2002, 04:48pm
email from Scorse. one batch of base units got out with
incomplete programming. If you received yours from TTX in
last 10 days, you probably have one. There are 48-54 bad units.
A test, if you have a radio cab on and working, and activate
another with a lower cab number and the first one quits working,
you have a bad base. Contact NCE for replacement. I am now
waiting. He asked for address to send to. That is not the only
problem, but is present in the bad bases. Out of space.
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE Radio
Posted by Paul on March 24, 2002, 01:24pm
Bob, thanks for the input, it sounds like, here I go again. I ran
into a problem with the new decoders when they first came out,
now this. Paul
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE Radio
Posted by Bob Miller on March 24, 2002, 10:48pm
Paul, I share your pain. Nothing in the transition from Dynatrol
to NCE DCC has been easy for me.
Bob
tortoise switch machine powering
Posted by mike on March 20, 2002, 08:33pm
is it possible to route dcc track power through the contacts on a
tortoise switch machine?
Re: tortoise switch machine powering
Posted by Christian on March 21, 2002, 08:46am
There are conflicting viewpoints on this. Most of the discussion
centers around the 1 amp rating of the Tortoise contacts. The
following qoute from Steve Worack the President of Circuitron
is pulled from Don Crano's Model Railroading with DCC site:
"As to the contact rating, we rate the contacts for 1 amp
SWITCHING. They will safely carry 4-5 amps, and the short
circuit protection of DCC systems makes contact or circuit board
"frying" a fairly remote possibility. In truth, with over 3/4
million TORTOISEs in the field, I have never gotten one back
with burned up contacts. And MANY of these are being used
for Hi-rail and G scale."
Don Crano's site is at http://home.neo.rr.com/mrwithdcc/ with
safety modifications for the tortoise at http://home.neo.rr.com/
mrwithdcc/Tortoise.html
Re: tortoise switch machine powering
Posted by DonV on March 21, 2002, 05:32pm
Yes you can.
But if you are contemplating doing it to resolve a reversing loop
polarity issue, be aware that there may be a short interruption of
track power that will occur while the switch is being thrown.
Any train running within the track loop will lose power for 1/2
second or so. This will be very noticable. You can use the
tortoise switch contacts to power a small relay that will swap
track polarity with less than 1/100 of a second. The headlight
may blink, but the train will keep moving.
DonV
Re: Re: tortoise switch machine powering
Posted by Christian on March 21, 2002, 08:58pm
Don's right. My aplologies for being a bit slow on this one :-). I
was assuming the "routing" was only to a frog that has been
isolated from all other rails. I agree, if you route track power
through the contacts, trains will stop during the "break", esp. if
you've widened the break to avoid shorts as I have.
Decoder in a Hornby Thomas
Posted by Chuck Pezeshki on March 17, 2002, 05:46pm
Hi folks,
I'm trying to figure out how to put a decoder in a Hornby Thomas.
I'm surprised, with all the kids out there nuts about Thomas, that
this hasn't been asked before, though!
Thomas has a pick-up on the right side, which then runs to a plug
which goes to the motor and branches to a resistor. The resistor is
grounded on the chassis with a screw. There is no other wired
contact to the other wheel, so I can only assume that the motor must
not be isolated from the frame, and this is how it completes the
circuit.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 53

Is Thomas doomed to be an analog loco? I don't understand the
purpose of the resistor in parallel with the motor. How would folks
isolate the motor? Any decoder recommendations?
Thanks in advance-- I'd appreciate anyone sending advice to cc:
pezeshki@moscow.com
Chuck
54
Re: Decoder in a Hornby Thomas
Posted by The Master on March 21, 2002, 11:24pm
I have seen a club who put a decoder in a Thomas engine. The
guy who did it can be reached at kbkchooch@aol.com and his
name is Karl. He belongs to the Four County Society of Model
Engineers and their web site is www.fcsme.org. He should be
able to help you out.
The Master
Ident needed
Posted by Les Backus on March 11, 2002, 06:41pm
I need help identifying a vintage European steam 4-6-2 locomotive.
I believe that it is a Roco, Trix or maybe Marklin Hamo(2 rail DC)
Can send nice pictures via email. Can anyone help?
tinker@teleplex.net
Cab holders
Posted by Terry on March 08, 2002, 11:05pm
I just converted my NCE cabs over to radio control. When not in
use, the cabs are attached to the fascia of my benchwork using
velcro. However with the antenna extending out of the top of the
cabs I'm concerned about bumping into the antenna, dislodging the
cab from the fascia and sending the cab to the floor. Does anyone
have a better way to store a cab when not in use? Thanks
Terry
Re: Cab holders
Posted by Don H. on March 09, 2002, 10:45am
Go to your local office supply store and look for mouse holders.
The kind that are suppose to stick to the side of your screen.
These usually work quite well.
Re: Cab holders
Posted by Mark J. Ernatt on March 14, 2002, 11:11am
I have the Easy DCC cabs and what I have done is use a picture
hanging hook attached to the bottom of the cab and then used an
ID badge neck stap to attached to it. The operator than can put
the strap around their neck. When they are not in use I have coat
hooks to store them on.
TTFN
Re: Re: Cab holders
Posted by Bill Gaver on March 23, 2002, 09:25am
See www.theclip.com for an
excellent cab holder to consider.
The Swivel Mount is used on the
BG&E with great success and is
a very safe/secure facia mount.
Reasonable cost with good service
and rapid mailing. Have placed
on ProCabs and 04s w/antennas
with no concerns often expressed
re: Velcro, etc.
arnold prices
Posted by John on March 08, 2002, 12:33am
where can I get a price guide for my Arnold Columbus 500 year
anniversary train??
Bradford Locomotives
Posted by Mike on March 07, 2002, 11:40am
Does any one know were and if Bradford Locomitives is still in
bussiness, or if any one has old stock of the models that were once
avaible.
Rivarossi Challenger
Posted by John on March 05, 2002, 08:51pm
Help!!
I have one of these engines and would like some advice on getting it
running with DCC. Has anyone had success with this unit, and if
so, which decoder and where did you mount it (mine is the motor in
boiler type)?
My concern is performance, as I'm having difficulty getting it to run
well in analog mode, as it seems to need more power pickups (I've
cleaned wheels, etc). What type should I get and where should they
be mounted?
Thanks for your comments.
Re: Rivarossi Challenger
Posted by Terry on March 06, 2002, 10:35pm
John-On Tony's home page under NEWS, read his review
"Rivarossi Allegheny-looks good" Dec 18 2001.
He talks about the Challenger and the problem with the spring
pin pickup assembly. Seems like this design was a real pain for
DCC decoder performance. A friend of mine sent his Challenger
to Tony to have a Soundtraxx decoder installed. He was never
satisfied with the way it ran and Tony explained that the poor
wheel pickup assembly wasn't compatable to good DCC
performance. My friend has removed the decoder and installed it
in another loco. Sorry, this probably isn't what you wanted to
hear but I just wanted to pass along what I heard. Maybe
someone else has another solution.
Terry
Re: Re: Rivarossi Challenger
Posted by Ed McCamey on March 07, 2002, 09:40am
John,
You can have what you need with a bit of work. You have to
improve the power pickup. I'd suggest that you consider some
phospher bronze wire soldered to pads of PC board that's
epoxied onto the frames and the wires fitted to the wheels. Once
you get a really good pickup electrically - then you'll be delighted
with the Challenger.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re: Rivarossi Challenger
Posted by Ed Wenzinger on March 07, 2002, 05:13pm
The challenger appears to pick up on the first & third axels of the
rear engine--look again; the third axel has traction tires on it's
wheels so it is not connected to the track. The problem can be
fixed by installing metal wheels with wipers on the middle 4
axels of the tender.NWSL makes 42"wheelsets with pointed &
sholdered axels.You will need to use some 0-80 flat washers to
minimize lateral motion of the wheelsets. A Miniatronics
connecting cable between tender& loco will solve the pickup
problem.
Walthers is now importing a centipede oil tender with metal
wheels& wipers. Add aconnecting cable to loco & you should be
in business.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Rivarossi Challenger
Posted by Don J. on March 11, 2002, 11:55am
John,
Ed's approach sounds good. I replaced the little springs in the
pickup assembley with KD coupler springs. The original springs
were toast from too many hard shorts. Without functional
springs, the pins do not keep good contact with the wheels.
Once you remove the pickup assembly from the frame, just reshape
the flat end of the pin and the assembly will come apart. I
use an old IHC vandy tender with six wheel pickup and a
Soundtraxx DSD decoder in the tender. I now have an outstanding
runner. Let me know if you need further details. I will soon
order one of the new Rivarossi tenders with pickups to be more
prototypical.
Jordan Spreader
Posted by Craig Dunn on March 04, 2002, 10:34pm
Have a Red Ball kit of a Jordan Spreader. Kit number is 4317. Have
all the parts, need the plans
HELP!! autoreverser problems
Posted by jeff on March 03, 2002, 03:03pm
I have a NCE Powerhouse and a reverse loop (another is in the
making). I have a tony's autoreverser connected and the rails gapped
at both ends of the loop. The problem: my train enters the reverse
loop (the gapped tracks) stops or if enough speed (to get over the
gapped tracks) pauses then continues on its way. My NCE is
registering a short then clears by autoreverser then train continues.
Any help would be appreciated!!!
jeff
Re: HELP!! autoreverser problems
Posted by ed bradbury on March 04, 2002, 12:31pm
An Opinion:
Just like a DC system the entire train needs to be inside the
return loop.
I think your auto reverser is working. If you had a DC return
loop you would manually throw a DPDT switch to match the
return loop exit polarity to main line polarity (+ to +, - to -).
Well the auto reverder does the same thing, right? But what tells
it the polarity needs to be changed? The wheels shorting (or not
shorting)!
Alternative: manual switches, Auxiliary relays interlocked to the
turnout motors?
Re: HELP!! autoreverser problems
Posted by DonV on March 05, 2002, 09:11am
The problem is that the auto-reverser is not quick enough to do
the reversing before the Ph-Pro unit shuts down on sensing a
short circuit.
1. Make sure that the Ph-Pro auto-reverse toggle switch is set to
NOT reverse. Some early production models had the switch
mislabeled. Flip the toggle to the other direction to see what
happens. (You won't hurt anything.)
2. Increase the sensitivity threshold of the reverser. (The Lenz
LK100 has an adjustment for this purpose.) Read the manual
from Tony's unit. I think there is a sensitivity jumper to adjust.
3. Decrease the time delay sensitivity of the reverser. Again, I
think there is a jumper adjustment.
4. If you can't get it to work, send it back to Tony's for a refund.
Buy the LK100.
5. And Yes...as others have said...be sure that the whole train can
fit into the reversing track...Especially if you have a string of
lighted passenger cars, or a pusher engine, or steel wheels
crossing both end gaps at once.
DonV
Re: HELP!! autoreverser problems
Posted by Steve on March 05, 2002, 10:26am
Jeff:
Set the autoreverser current threshold to 3.8 amps (the default).
You probably have it set to 5 amps now. When set to 5 amps it
becomes an electronic tossup as to what trips first, the
autoreverser or the Ph-Pro.
Steve
Re: HELP!! autoreverser problems
Posted by Larry Maier on March 10, 2002, 11:12am
This is Larry Maier. I designed the PS1 Reverser. It appears that
your unit is not working. The reverser is definitely faster than
the PH Pro booster. If the booster is registering a short, then the
reverser is not working. You can set the reverser to 5 amps even
with a 5 amp booster (particularly the NCE boosters) as there is
enough current spike on a short to trip the reverser.
Reversing Section Problem
Posted by Matt Bartner on March 01, 2002, 11:11pm
My layout is small, an oval with a reversing "cut-off" track to
change direction the train is running around the oval. I am trying to
use the PSrev as an auto-reverse for the cut-off track. DCC system
is Digitrax DB150 booster with Digitrax 5 amp power supply. The
reversing section is gapped at both ends; PSrev appears to be
working, there is LED activity when it's turned on and or when I
run a locomotive from the oval into the reversing section, BUT
when I run the locomotive out of the rev. section, back toward the
oval, it shorts out crossing the gap between the two sections, as if
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the PSrev isn't working - the Digitrax booster is getting shorted,
beeping, etc. Also [maybe this is relevant] when the locomotive runs
from the oval into the reversing section, it runs at about half speed
in the reversing section, compared to it's speed on the oval, without
any change of throttle setting, as if it isn't getting all of the "juice."
56
Re: Reversing Section Problem
Posted by Terry on March 02, 2002, 03:43pm
Matt-Is the entire train within the reversing section before the
locomotive re-enters the main line? I had the same type of
problem, my train was longer than the track within the reversing
section. The train entered the section fine but when the loco reentered
the mainline the last few cars(with metal wheels) still had
not entered the reverse section yet,causing a short. The problem
was solved by running trains no longer than the reversing
section. Also are BOTH your rails gapped at each end of the
reversing section? Hope this helps.
Terry
Re: Re: Reversing Section Problem
Posted by jeff on March 03, 2002, 03:02pm
I have had a similar problem as well. My train goes to enter the
reverse loop and stops. Pauses for a few minutes them starts up
again. The autoreverser works but the NCE Powerhouse seems
to lag behind it. Can anyone out there help with this problem.
jeff
Re: Re: Re: Reversing Section Problem
Posted by Christian on March 05, 2002, 09:37am
Very Timely Thread! As it turns out, I'm wiring a wye that
connects my oval to a staging yard. Initially, I was going to
reverse one of the legs off the oval, but based on this information,
I should probably reverse the staging yard including the
turnout (four rails of the converging routes isolated). As I'm
using powered frogs, any reversing mechanism (DPDT for
now) should be wired to the auxillary contacts on my switch
machine (tortoise)to "reverse" the turnout as well. Any comments.
Thanks, Christian
Re: Re: Re: Re: Reversing Section Problem
Posted by DonV on March 07, 2002, 10:11am
Christian,
You could get by with putting insulated joiners at all 4 rails at
the frog ends of the 'Y' switch feeding your yard. Operate a
DPDT relay from the tortoise machine contacts to swap track
polarity of the whole yard and the switch (frog too) based on
track switch position. Or use a single toggle sw to control the
switch machine and swap rail polarity.
You 'could' use the internal tortiose contacts directly to swap rail
power, but I don't recommend it for 2 reasons.
1. They are not designed as break-before-make and may cause a
momentary short circuit when switch position is changing.
2. They are rated for only 1 amp. Feeding the whole yard
through them from a 5 amp (or larger) DCC supply may cause a
tortoise pcb burn-out in the event of a track short derailment.
DonV
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Reversing Section Problem
Posted by DonV on March 07, 2002, 10:31am
Note that if the rail polarity of the whole end 'Y' switch is
swapped for DCC reversing correction, the switch frog actually
stays at the same DCC polarity (!). A case where you change the
polarity of the switch rails rather than the frog.
DonV
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Reversing Section Problem
Posted by Christian on March 07, 2002, 12:35pm
DonV, Thanks for the input. I like the whole yard approach
because 1. the staging yard will be the limiter of train length, not
the shorter wye leg, 2. Only need to match polarity once whereas
I'd have to do it twice on the wye leg (Yard terminates run). I'm
thinking of implementing it with a manual DPDT switch (PSRev
in the future)on the bus that will switch all subsequent track/
turnouts in that section. I've widened the "break" on the Tortoise
circuit boards based on Don Crano's site http://home.neo.rr.com/
mrwithdcc/Tortoise.html to reduce chances of a short and my
turnouts are wired/modified to have polarity of closure and point
rails match adjacent stock rail. Bulletproof... probably not. Will it
work... I'll let you know
Re: Reversing Section Problem
Posted by Larry Maier on March 10, 2002, 11:05am
Matt:
This is Larry Maier. I designed the PS1. It sounds to me as if the
unit is not working properly. Contact me via e-mail and I will
send you a simple check to determine if the PS1 is OK or needs
replacement. My e-mail is grnmtnflyr@aol.com. I tried to send
the procedure through the bulletin board, but had too many
characters.
Lenz100XF Woes
Posted by Bob Menzies on February 28, 2002, 07:26am
I got the unit to work after some reprogramming. In fairness to Lenz
my comments weren't to flame Lenz just get the units operating. For
interest sake once I got CV29 straightened out the unit runs
flawlessly. I now have all the bells and whistles for my repowered
SW1500 Athearn. A PNP Soundtrax unit with dimmimg lights
along with alternating ditch lights with on off capability all working
around the Soundtrax function keys. These little guys are an
excellent development. Debbie Ames contacted me to help. Thanks
for the help everyone. Debbie I hope you keep producing these
items I need a lot of them for my Wisconsin Central fleet of the mid
90's/Bob Menzies
DH121 decoder configurable lights or not?
Posted by Jason M on February 27, 2002, 10:40pm
I was wondering if anyone can tell me whether or not the DH 121
decoders from digitrax have configurable strobe or mars lights etc.,
or not? I was told all decoders ending in 1 or 2 are configurable.
Any help greatly appreciated. Thanx, Jason
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Re: DH121 decoder configurable lights or not?
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 28, 2002, 10:06am
The DH121 has only independent control of the lights or
directional lighting. There are no special effects available. It is
not a FX decoder.
Dale.
Re: DH121 decoder configurable lights or not?
Posted by AUDIE on April 04, 2002, 02:52am
DH121 DIGITRAX DECODERS JUST HAVE THE ON-OFF
FUNCTIONS.
Atlas U33C lights inop.
Posted by Jason Merrill on February 26, 2002, 07:02pm
I have two atlas U33,s with nmra 8 pin plug in for the decoders. I
plugged in two NCE 102eu decoders and the front lights won't
light. The decoders test out fine and the bulbs are good. Anybody
else have this problem? Any help greatly appreciated thanx, Jason.
Soundtraxx Decoders
Posted by Don N on February 25, 2002, 12:48pm
I had assembled 8 engines with various manufacturer's DCC
decoders before hearing about Soundtraxx modules. Considering
the price of Soundtraxx equipment, the cost of the decoders already
installed, and the prospect of rewiring the engines, I need to find a
cheaper and easier way to get throttle controlled sound.
My question is has anyone tried hooking up a single Soundtraxx
decoder to their track, and then using it as a 'ghost engine' in an
advance consist? Is it somehow possible to use it in two different
consists, running concurrently, and have it controlled by the
currently active consist? Any thoughts or comments would be
appreciated.
Re: Soundtraxx Decoders
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on February 25, 2002, 04:38pm
I have not done what you suggest, but I believe that it would
work. I have another thought, why not install the Soundtraxx
(sound only)in a box car (or passenger car), then all you need to
do is assign a locomotive address (use an existing one, or use a
new one and then MU the units).
Re: Re: Soundtraxx Decoders
Posted by eD BRADBURY on February 26, 2002, 12:25pm
i SUGGEST YOU LOOK AT THE SOUNDTRAXX SITE.
tHEY HAVE SOME DISCUSSIONS ON USING THE
DECODER AS AN STATIONARY SOUND UNIT AND
CONNECTIONS TO AN AMPLIFIER/SPEAKER SYSTEM.
hOWEVER, THE SUGGESTED BOX OR PASSENGER
CAR IS GOOD.
i THINK THAT ONCE YOU HEAR THE SOUND YOU
WILL WANT THE SOUND DECODERS IN THE OTHER
ENGINES.
ED
?'s about the PS intelligent reverser
Posted by Jeff on February 24, 2002, 08:12pm
Anyone have Tony's intelligent reverser? I was told that it could
handle two reverse loops. How would I wire that up to the actual
unit? I know that I need to gap the track, but it seems that there is
only one output area for only one reverse loop. Any help would be
appreciated.
Jeff
soldering feeders
Posted by jerry on February 24, 2002, 07:36pm
Anyone out there have an easy way to solder feeder wires??!! I'm
about to start and I was wondering if there is a easy way?
Jerry
Re: soldering feeders
Posted by J Scott on February 25, 2002, 11:55am
Easy for me may not be easy for you. Practice first. Clean the
side of the rail (use flux if you want) Clean and tin the end of the
wire. (heat the wire and apply solder to it) Tin the side of the
rail. Hold the wire against the rail and touch with the soldering
iron until the solder flows. (note: this will be a very brief time)
touch the joint with a little more solder to ensure a good joint.
Remove heat and keep joint still until solder hardens. clean any
excess off the rail top and sides with a knife or file.
Re: Re: soldering feeders
Posted by Bob Savino on February 27, 2002, 05:45pm
Here is what I do:
I use solid 26 ga wire to connect to the rails. Old telephone wire
works great. Then that connects to a heavier feeder or bus
beneath the roadbed.
Clean the surface of the rail
I use two alligator clips to secure the wire to the outside of the
rail. They serve as heatsinks and mechanically hold the wire.
I use a very hot iron - 45 W.
You want to get in and get out fast- A cooler iron will result in
melted ties. I use rosin core solder 60%tin 40%lead. Buy at
Radio Shack.
Good luck.
MRC Prodigy DCC
Posted by Forge on February 23, 2002, 07:59pm
Is anyone out there using the new MRC Prodigy DCC system?
How do you like it?
I am looking into it for my first DCC system. I will be running 2 or
3 locos max at the same time with 2 or 3 operators max.in Nscale.
Is it compatable with ALL other manufactuer's decoders? Is there
any downside that anyone knows about, knowing what I am going
to run with it?
Can 2 operators run trains at the same time right out of the box? OR
do you need to buy another hand controller for the second person?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Re: MRC Prodigy DCC
Posted by Jack on February 28, 2002, 11:50am
I also started out with the MRC system, similar thinking. With
only the "base station," you're pretty much one operator
(personal opinion) because the controls are so close together,
just one hand at a time. I bought a hand controller to get a bit of
walk around, and positioned the base at the yard, since yard
switching doesn't require much movement.
Types of glue
Posted by Jeff on February 22, 2002, 10:57pm
After reading many articles on different topics they all say to use a
glue gun. I was wondering what type of glue to use. One place I
read to use a glue gun was to glue a tortoise switch machine to the
underside of the benchwork.
jeff
Re: Types of glue
Posted by Christian on February 25, 2002, 10:48am
Just the plain, white, hot glue sticks. Not the alphatic resin (sp?)
"wood glue" sticks. Just mounted a few Tortoises using this
method this weekend. Works great. To remove the Tortoise, just
use a small putty knife to pry it off. A lot less work than using
screws - especially if you're like me and usually don't get it right
the first time!
decoder install athearn geisis sd-70
Posted by Jason Merrill on February 21, 2002, 10:00pm
I am looking for suggestions on the best decoder and lights to use
on my BNSF Athearn genisis SD-70. I am looking for the ability to
have the ditch lights flash at grade crossings. Thanx for any help in
advance.
Re: decoder install athearn geisis sd-70
Posted by Tim on February 22, 2002, 05:06pm
Jason,
According to NCE website, their DA-SR is the one to use. I
havn't personally installed one in the SD-70, but have done
numerous DA-SR's. They have 4 function outputs to that you
can "program" for numerous effects including 2 types of ditch
lights. They can be programed to turn on/off with any function
key. I use 14V grain of wheat bulbs, but white LED's look good
too (remember to use current limiting resistor if you use LED)
Tim
Re: Re: decoder install athearn geisis sd-70
Posted by Bob Savino on February 27, 2002, 05:52pm
I have personally installed 3 DA-SR in Athearn genesis SD70.
I recommend installing the DA-SR component side up. It will
work properly in DC mode, if that matters for you.
If you keep the existing lamps, you must use a higher value of
resistor than what the instructions say. I used 680 ohm instead of
620 ohm. I also installed ditch lights connected to output 3 and 4
on the decoder. You'll have to solder wires onto the decoder for
the ditchlights and their common return. I used 1.5V micro
bulbs, as they are smaller than the ones supplied. They need a
820 ohm resistor.
Good luck. It's not as bad as it seems.
Allegheny installation - lights?
Posted by Ed Plymouth on February 20, 2002, 01:54pm
Anyone have any tips for a decoder installation in the RIvarossi
Allegheny? Whats the lights situation? Replace their bulbs or no?
Re: Allegheny installation - lights?
Posted by tpbldr on February 20, 2002, 07:51pm
i istalled an nce decoder in my allegeny factory lights work fine .
will be relacing nce with dsd by soundtrax soon. great model!
Re: Allegheny installation - lights?
Posted by Terry on February 20, 2002, 11:34pm
Ed
I used a nced15srp decoder in my Allegheny. It's small and has a
harness and plug. The decoder just fits behind the firebox wall.
My engine sqeaks alot when running, does yours?
Terry
Re: Re: Allegheny installation - lights?
Posted by Ed McCamey on February 21, 2002, 10:14am
My 2-6-6-6 also squeeks a bit. I've carefully cleaned and lubed it
at all the places I can think of and see - still makes noises!
Re: Allegheny installation - lights?
Posted by Ed Plymouth on February 21, 2002, 10:46pm
Thanks, tpbldr!
I fit a Digitrax DH121 in there last night and it seems to be
working well with the stock lights. I'll probably replace the
decoder in a few weeks with something with more function
outputs so I can turn the firebox light on. Its already wired, the
decoder just doesn't have an output available.
Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Jack on February 19, 2002, 07:13am
Running an Athearn Genesis USRA 4-6-2 with a Soundtraxx
Decoder. One of the easiest installations ever. Problem is that the
loco doesn't like my Atlas Code 100 turnouts (frogs not powered). I
get that pesky "DCC Reset" on every one. Any ideas?
Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 19, 2002, 07:52am
Put pickup wipers on your tender wheels. It will make all the
difference - stalling is gone forever.
Dale.
Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Jim H on February 19, 2002, 05:57pm
Power the frogs.
Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Jack on February 20, 2002, 07:04am
Thanks, guys. I'm probably going to approach this in stages.
First, add some additional electrical pickups. Hope I can get a
spare tender from IHC. Second, this is my first HO layout since
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the teen years (60's), so I've approached it as a learning
experience. I'll try powering several of the easy-to-get-to
turnouts.
Re: Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by JOHN on February 20, 2002, 10:00am
JACK, LISTEN THE FELLOW WHO TOLD YOU TO PUT
EXTRA PICKUPS ON THE TENDER, YOU'LL DRIVE
YOURSELF CRAZY IF YOU START POWERING FROGS.
JOHN
Re: Re: Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Christian on February 20, 2002, 03:20pm
Powering the frogs is no big deal, especially w/Atlas TO's. Just
a screw and a wire...
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by JOHN on February 21, 2002, 11:10am
CRISTIAN, WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO GO
THROUGH ALL OF THE WORK TO POWER FROGS,
JUST FOR ONE LOCOMOTIVE? WHO KNOWS HOW
MANY TURN OUTS ARE ON THIS LAYOUT, IT'S MUCH
EASIER TO ADD THE PICK UPS ON THE TENDER OF
THE ONE LOCOMOTIVE THAT IS HAVING A PROBLEM.
JOHN
Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Jack on February 21, 2002, 12:36pm
Thanks for the thoughts. It's a medium size layout, about 14
turnouts. It is intended to be a learning experience prior to the
"attic empire." It's certainly fulfilling its objective! I powered a
frog with a jumper wire last night. Pacific purred right thru. I'm
contemplating building some switch stands with a SPDT slide
switch included for power routing. Also ordered a kit to install
pick-ups on the tender.
Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Jack on February 28, 2002, 12:05pm
Final report, if anyone's still following this discussion. Powered
2 frogs, using homemade switchstands. Problem solved on
those two, of course. Also added electrical pickups to the tender.
Problem solved at all turnouts. Long range goal will be to power
all, since it works well with the switchstands, and I think they
look better than what I had.
Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by JOHN on February 28, 2002, 12:55pm
JACK, IF YOU SOLVED THE PROBLEM BY ADDING
PICKUPS TO THE TENDER ON THIS ONE LOCO, DO
YOU REALLY WANT TO POWER FROGS ON THE
WHOLE LAYOUT JUST FOR THIS LOCO? IMAGINE IF
YOU HAD 60 OR 70 TURNOUTS. IF ALL OF THE OTHER
LOCOMOTIVES GO THROUGH FINE, WHY GO TO ALL
THAT WORK, JUST A THOUGHT. I'M HAPPY THAT
EVERYTHING IS WORKING WELL FOR YOU. THERE IS
USUALLY MORE THAN ONE SOULTION TO EACH
PROBLEM, THE THING IS TO FIND THE EASIEST WAY
TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM. JOHN
Re: Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Jack on March 01, 2002, 07:21am
Good point there, John. No, I wouldn't retrofit a whole bunch of
turnouts just to fix a problem that doesn't exist. I'm using the
USRA Pacific for passenger service, so that limits it's use to
about half the trackwork. I'd only fix those turnouts, if necessary.
I came across a technique to make operational switchstands
that are closer to scale than Caboose Industries, and have a
double throw microswitch, so I'll power frogs as I build and
install them. So actually, it's an "appearance thing" that's now
driving the changes.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by Jason on March 01, 2002, 12:06pm
I was wondering what method u are using to power your
turnouts. Would it be possible for u to e-mail me the article with
details. Thanx for any help Jason.
jemerrill@hotmail.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by ID DAN on March 25, 2003, 12:07am
I was wondering, since I have a Genesis 2-8-2 with the turnout
reset/stalling problem and was going about powering frogs
could you tell me how you accomplished the tender pickup? I
would rather do that. My e-mail is dx4@earthlink.net.
Thanks,
ID DAN
Re: Re: Re: Re: Genesis Pacific - DCC
Posted by e bradbury on March 26, 2003, 08:06am
Your stalling problem is interesting. I run a Genesis 2-8-2 on my
layout which has a combination of turnouts: Peco (insulfrog &
electro frog), Shenohara, Atlas, all without any power frogs, and
some without ground throws/switch machines. The loco goes
through all of them without stalling. Also I run this loco on the
club's modular layout that has Slowmotion (Hankscraft) turnout
motors (no frog power) without stalling. Is your loco stalling
really hiding another problem. Are your loco wipers touching the
metal wheels? Are you powering the turnouts from the point
end? Are the point contact with the stock rail clean & picking up
power?
help!!
Posted by jeff on February 17, 2002, 01:29pm
I have just put together my first layout and have a quick question.
My NCE Powerhouse keeps registering "shorts". When I
dissconnect my turnouts and basically have a glorified loop no
problems. But as soon as the turnouts are connected the "shorts"
appear!!! Frustrating!! Some of my turnouts end in a dead-end
track. Does that have anything to do with it? And if it does how do
you wire a train yard??
Thanks!
Re: help!!
Posted by Don H. on February 17, 2002, 03:18pm
It sounds like you've managed to create one or more reverse
loops in you track plan. Are you putting in plastic rail joiners to
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60
isolate these sections? If you have created reverse loops you will
need to put in either an auto reverser that works with DCC or
use a manual toggle switch. The manual that came with your
DCC equipment should have a section on how to deal with this
situation.
Re: Re: help!!
Posted by jeff on February 17, 2002, 05:58pm
There weren't any reverse loops as far as I could tell. The shorts
were occuring before trains were on the lay-out. Any help with
turnouts and how to set up would be appreciated. I am using
atlas code 83 custom line turnouts.
jeff
Re: Re: Re: help!!
Posted by jeff on February 17, 2002, 10:21pm
To Don
Yes it was a reverse loop causing the shorts. Thanks a lot!!
Re: Re: Re: Re: help!!
Posted by Don H. on February 17, 2002, 11:02pm
Glad you found it. They can sneak in even when you don't plan
for them.
Spectrum HO 0-6-0
Posted by Jim H. on February 11, 2002, 10:53pm
Does anyone know how to open the engine for decoder installation
without damaging it??
Re: Spectrum HO 0-6-0
Posted by Jack Copeland on February 13, 2002, 07:27am
Sounds like a Bachmann product. They have an active message
board, and a company rep monitors it. Try posting at
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/bachmann/mainpage/start2.html
Lenz100XF Woes
Posted by Bob Menzies on February 11, 2002, 09:47pm
Anyone programed these units successfully? My NCE system reads
the cv's yet I can't get the decoder to turn on any function. The wish
list is rule 17 headlites on a and b with ditch lites on c and d. A on
F0 and B on F1 with c and d on F4.Anyone help me here? TIA Bob
Menzies
Re: Lenz100XF Woes
Posted by Stan on February 13, 2002, 10:19pm
Bob, lenz has many good ideas that in practical use does not
work, unless you have their system and only with the latest
software upgrades which seem to be needed constantly. I
suggest you try other decoders, NCE, Digitrax or TCS, they
don't seem to be as critical when used with other systems. Good
luck, Stan
Re: Lenz100XF Woes
Posted by Ed B on February 14, 2002, 11:51am
Have you tried contacting Lenz. Debby Ames of tried & true
trains (www.tttrains.com) in chelmsford mass is n. american
representitive for lenz. Also her husband was on the DCC
committee. A simple call, best action, to debby (lenz n. america)
may be all you need to solve your problem.
Re: Re: Lenz100XF Woes
Posted by Debbie on February 14, 2002, 06:20pm
Stan
I am not sure I understand what problems you believe our
decoders have on other systems. We work very hard to ensure
true compatibility. We submit each and every decoder to the
NMRA for testing and fix any and all problems identified. We
are very proud of our hard earned NMRA COnformance
Warrants.
If you know of a problem please let us know so that we can
address it.
-----------------------------------
[] Debbie Ames
[] [[[] support@lenz.com
LENZ [][[ [] http://www.lenz.com
Elektronik [] 978-250-1494
GmbH Quality, Value, Performance, & True Compatibility
-----------------------------------
Re: Lenz100XF Woes
Posted by JOHN on February 15, 2002, 12:12pm
BOB & STAN, IT'S POSSIBLE TO HAVE A PROBLEM
WITH ANY DECODER FROM ANY MANUFACTURER. I
SUGGEST YOU CALL DEBBIE AMES AT LENZ AND ASK
HER ABOUT THE PROBLEM YOU'RE HAVING WITH
YOUR DECODER. SHE IS A REAL EXPERT ON PRO-
GRAMING SITUATIONS AND YOU MIGHT FIND IT'S
SOMETHING VERY SIMPLE. IF THERE IS A PROBLEM
WITH THIS DECODER, I FEEL VERY CONFIDENT THAT
LENZ WILL REPLACE IT. I HAVE HAD SOME EXPERI-
ENCE WITH LENZ DECODERS AND FIND THEM TO BE
VERY COMPATIBLE WITH OTHER SYSTEMS. MAKE A
CALL AND I THINK YOUR PROBLEM WILL BE SOLVED.
JOHN
IHC Loco Wheels
Posted by Jack Copeland on February 05, 2002, 08:41am
I'm planning an upgrade to my HO layout. I like the look of Code
83 rail, but noticed a footnote that IHC locos won't run on 83
without wheel work. What wheelsets would I need for an IHC 2-6-
0 ?
Re: IHC Loco Wheels
Posted by DonV on February 05, 2002, 01:33pm
Yes. Please help us. IHC indicates that RP25 wheels are at least
1 yr away. What substitutes are available? Where? Is there a
wheel cut-down service?
Re: Re: IHC Loco Wheels
Posted by D. Jones on February 07, 2002, 12:08am
I run an IHC Mountain & Mike on Atlas code 83 without any
problems. From my point of view, turning the drivers down
would require a lot of needless effort. My advice would be to try
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unning your locos on some Atlas code 83 and see if you notice
any problems.
Re: Re: Re: IHC Loco Wheels
Posted by DonV on February 07, 2002, 05:31pm
I have & they do. The thick flanges of the drivers bind in
flangeways at Atlas code 83 switch frogs.
Re: Re: Re: Re: IHC Loco Wheels
Posted by J. Scott on February 08, 2002, 03:37pm
You have probably already thought of this, but how about the
check gage-- the distance between the backs of the wheels. It
could be the drivers are a little bit out of gage on the narrow
side.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: IHC Loco Wheels
Posted by D. Jones on February 11, 2002, 11:57am
Don,
I talked about the wheel problem with other club members this
weekend. It may be that the reason we have no problems is that
our layout turnouts get heavy use and any offending clearances
are worn down. Many of our major turnouts have had 5-6 years
of heavy use.
Sound Decoder for S1
Posted by Ernie on February 04, 2002, 06:50pm
Has anyone installed a sound decoder in a Proto 2000 Series S1?
If so, what did you use. Thanks.
EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder
Posted by GeepM on February 04, 2002, 12:52pm
Which type if available would you suggest for use in EMD's 45
series locomitives? I am doing a pair of FP45's using P2K SD60
Mech. and changing the sideframes, so it will have a NMRA style
plug for the decoder. Anyways, this would be a great help for
anyone modeling the 45's. Also on a side note, anyone know of a
sound decoder sutable for Diesel Hydraulics? Like those the SP and
DRGW ran in the 60's?
Thanks in advance,
Joe (GeepM) Bohannon
Re: EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder
Posted by GERRY on February 09, 2002, 08:57pm
WHOS SHELL ARE YOU USING FOR THE FP-45'S
Re: Re: EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder
Posted by GeepM on February 10, 2002, 09:15pm
They are detailed Athearn's... Custom painted in the Passenger
schem when first ordered.
Joe
Re: EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder
Posted by Fritz on February 11, 2002, 12:23pm
ESU - Electronic Solutions Ulm,
Germany, sells "LokSound2" Back- EMF
silent running (22 kHz)sound decoders for Diesel
Hydraulics,Item # 3550420.
Re: Re: EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder
Posted by graeme on February 11, 2002, 09:47pm
do you have a web site address for E.S.U. please?
Re: Re: Re: EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder
Posted by Fritz on February 12, 2002, 04:53am
The ESU website can be found at:
www.loksound.de
The only manual currently
available in english is about the
predecessor model "Loksound".
This gives you a good impression
of what the decoder can do.
Re: Re: Re: Re: EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder
Posted by mark loos on February 17, 2002, 09:24pm
Fritz & graeme. I have a copy of the new LokSound2 manual in
English on pdf. If you want to contact me off-list, I'll e-mail a
copy to you. markloos@pacbell.net
Mark
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: EMD 20Cyl. Sound Decoder
Posted by Fritz on February 18, 2002, 03:49am
Thank you, Mark!
I`ve got one - in German.
DCC sound
Posted by Steve H on February 01, 2002, 12:52pm
I recently purchased the Atlas DCC and also the Genesis DCC
ready 2-8-2 Light Mikado. It's been 20 years since my last set-up so
this is all new territory. I have not purchased a DCC chip for this
train yet. Ideally I would like one with sound. Is there one available
for this model? If not, what's the best chip (feature wise). Thanks in
advance.
Hooking up DCC
Posted by jeff on January 30, 2002, 02:36pm
Can anyone out there help me with hooking up my DCC system?
Which type wire hook from the system to the track? Which type of
wire for the track bus? Any website with this info or help with this
would be appreciated.
Re: Hooking up DCC
Posted by Don H. on January 30, 2002, 03:54pm
Sounds like you need to visit Allan Gartner's site:
www.wiringfordcc.com
Hope this helps.
Don H.
Re: Hooking up DCC
Posted by Tim on January 30, 2002, 06:37pm
Jeff,
Maybe the instructions for your DCC system gives
recomendations/requirements. I recomend you get the book "The
comprehensive guide to DCC" by Stan Ames. Look in Tony's
online products list under "publications".
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 61

62
Theoretically only two wires is all you need. In actuality there's
more to it ... too much to explain in this little space. Jeff, we can
discuss it more if you want to e-mail me: Tim49544@attbi.com
Good luck,
Tim
Re: Hooking up DCC
Posted by Terry on January 31, 2002, 06:32pm
Jeff-Do yourself a favor and buy the Digitrax Big Book of
DCC. Tony sells it for $20.00.You'll find it helpful no matter
what DCC system you're using. I use #18 str. from my NCE
unit to the track bus which is #14 sol. From there I use #22 str.
to the rails.
I'm also using Tony's Power Shields (Instant Trip Circuit
Breakers) between the NCE unit and the track bus. Have Fun!!
Spectrum 44 ton
Posted by Tim on January 28, 2002, 10:32pm
Has anyone out there tried to DCC a Spectrum 44 ton?
Re: Spectrum 44 ton
Posted by ed B on January 29, 2002, 04:01pm
See Model Railroader year 2001, I do not remember the month.
One Digitrax decoder was used and the installation can be done
fairly easily if you have done decoder installations. Best to read
the article and decide.
Hope this helps.
Re: Spectrum 44 ton
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on January 29, 2002, 05:26pm
I installed a Lenz LE077XF decoder in a Bachmann 44 Ton
diesel. The installation details are in the January 2001 (page 108)
Model Railroader. Also, you might check Tony's "Past Headlines"
for an article "Bachmann 44 Ton Install" by Ernest
Puddick. Although the space is very limited, the extra work
makes this diesel operate on DCC quite well. Good luck!
Re: Re: Spectrum 44 ton
Posted by Tim on January 29, 2002, 05:52pm
Thanks Ed & Ed.
Tim
Athearn genesis F3A/B decoder?
Posted by Jeff on January 28, 2002, 06:49pm
I have recently purchased a Southern Pacific "black widow" F3A/B
from athearn genesis. The question I have is that the "B" is also
motorized! How will that work with DCC and the decoders for the
"A"? Also how difficult is it for me to put decoders in them. They
have a circuit board in them.
Thanks Jeff
Re: Athearn genesis F3A/B decoder?
Posted by Don H. on January 28, 2002, 08:19pm
You will need to put a separate decoder in the B unit, with its
own address. You then 'Consist' the units so that they will
respond to the commands from one throttle.
Re: Athearn genesis F3A/B decoder?
Posted by Tim on January 28, 2002, 10:16pm
Jeff,
I recomend you put a decoder in each locomotive (A &
B),program them for their respective road number then set them
up as a consist. You could also program both locomotives for the
same address, but that gets confusing if you ever seperate the
pair. How hard is it to install? That depends on your own
abilities. If it has a circuit board then it PROBABLY has a DCC
plug and a decoder would plug rite in.
Tim
Re: Re: Athearn genesis F3A/B decoder?
Posted by Ed B on January 29, 2002, 03:54pm
I think I remember a product review in which it was noted that
these were not DCC ready in the sense there is no DCC plug (8
pin). However I think the motor is isolated from the frame. In
any case you should verify the motor is isolated with any
decoder installation. This is also why that you test an installation
on a program track. On another note I am looking for genesis f3.
Where did you buy yours, I'm live in Conn.
Re: Re: Re: Athearn genesis F3A/B decoder?
Posted by Jeff on January 29, 2002, 11:34pm
i purchased the F3A/B from caboose hobbies.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Athearn genesis F3A/B decoder?
Posted by Dave Megeath on January 31, 2002, 10:16am
On Tony's advice, I have been buying the NCE DA-SR "Power
Pro" decoder. It drops into the lugs after you remove the Athearn
board. You really should solder the wire connections, but you
can use the compression sleeves (beware the rogue filament of
stranded wire that can cause a short!).
So far I have done 3 Genesis F3's with great results.
Bachmann Porter
Posted by Peter on January 26, 2002, 07:53pm
I cannot believe anyone would not have tried to DCC this cute little
engine. Can it be done, anyone???? help Help
Peter
Re: Bachmann Porter
Posted by Jeff on January 28, 2002, 07:40pm
Are you talking about the Harry Potter Bachmann? I would be
curious about that myself.
Re: Re: Bachmann Porter
Posted by Peter on January 29, 2002, 09:40am
No. I am talking about the Tiny 0-4-0 and 0-4-2 industrial
engines (original made by Porter) that were used in logging and
mining operations. Try this link for info on the real thing
http://gelwood.railfan.net/other/porter/porter-pb.html
Types of loco decoders
Posted by Jerry on January 26, 2002, 01:47pm
I have recently purchased an Atlas GP-40 locomotive which is DCC
ready. My question is the plug is an 8 prong dumby plug. How do I
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

know from all the decoders out there which has the 8 prong plug. I
would like to buy Lenz with the back EMF. As you can tell I am
new to the hobby.
Jerry
Re: Types of loco decoders
Posted by Tim on January 26, 2002, 06:40pm
Jerry,
The old saying "a picture is worth 1K words" holds true. The
best thing is to see the decoder. Otherwise rely on others
experience or manufacturers recomendations. I have installed
decoders in several Atlas GP-40's. The TTX RS-2 under
products,Lenz on Tonys home page will work. NCE D14SRP is
a direct plug in. I prefer NCE DA-SR and solder the wires on
(no chance of decoder unplugging!). In my opinion, this is a
very nice looking and running engine. Good luck,
Tim
Lenz decoders on NCE?
Posted by Jeff on January 25, 2002, 09:35am
To anybody out there! Can Lenz back EMF decoders work with the
NCE system? Just wondering, I know that most things are
interchangeable but the fact that NCE is not NMRA licensed just
curious. Any help would be appreciated.
Jeff
Re: Lenz decoders on NCE?
Posted by Ed B on January 25, 2002, 11:50am
Decoders are basically micromotor controllers. The back EMF is
electrical feedback from the motor windings to the decoder. The
decoder compares the EMF to the throttle setting in the decoder
and will compensate the motor speed to match the desired speed
by increasing or decreasing the power supplied to the motor
(PWM). It has invisible to the DCC system you are using.
Ed B
Re: Re: Lenz decoders on NCE?
Posted by Ken on January 25, 2002, 02:02pm
I use Lenz decoders with NCE and they work just fine.
On3 Porter
Posted by Peter on January 24, 2002, 09:41am
Anyone know if the Bachman Porters are DCC ready? If not how
difficult is it to make them so?
nce radio
Posted by Rob on January 23, 2002, 12:21pm
Has anyone received their production radio unit? If so, any opinions
on range/reception? I wonder why NCE/Jim did not use 2.4 GHZ
instead of 900 MHZ?
Which system!?
Posted by Jerry on January 22, 2002, 10:46pm
I am starting up in the hobby and am very excited about DCC. I am
wondering which seems to be the best system. I have it narrowed
down to NEC and Lenz any help in this matter is greatly appreciated.
Jerry
Re: Which system!?
Posted by Tim on January 22, 2002, 11:05pm
Jerry,
Welcome to Model Railroading!! Your best bet is find some
clubs or individuals in your area that use DCC and try using
their systems. Some systems have better features than others ...
it's your preferance. Check out Tonys on line product list,
publications. If you have more ??? Your welcome to e-mail me
where I have more room to respond tim49544@attbi.com
Tim
Re: Which system!?
Posted by DonV on January 23, 2002, 10:37am
Find a club or local shop where you can try either system. My
personal choice is NCE. Definately the easiest to use of all the
contenders.
DonV
Re: Which system!?
Posted by Don H. on January 23, 2002, 01:12pm
I personally went with the Digitrax system, but that was only
because the N scale club that I belong to went that route. And the
only reason the club is using this system is because our in house
DCC guru is using it.
All in all I'm quite satisfied with the system and have no regrets.
I didn't care much for the DT100 throttle but I really like the
DT300.
I did have a chance some time back to operate on an HO layout
that uses the Easy DCC system and I found that very enjoyable
and easy to use. If the situation outlined above hadn't happened,
I would probably have gone with that system.
As the others posting have indicated, the best thing to do is to try
and find some place where you can try these things out. This is a
very subjective topic. Asking for an opinion on which DCC
system to use is similar to asking someone their political views.
installation instructions for Athearn 200 ton
cran
Posted by rbjmiller@sbcglobal.net on January 22, 2002, 10:24pm
I recently purchased a 200 ton crane by Athearn. Can someone scan
and e-mail a copy
of the assembly instructions.
Thanks,
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 63

Reverse loops?
Posted by Jeff on January 22, 2002, 07:05pm
With the great response I got with my first question I am sending
out 2 others! I am new to the hobby and plan on using DCC to
power my new layout. The first question is which company and
which reverse loop modules work the best! Or is there another way
to do reverse loops that is better than the modules. Also in the future
I am planning on adding a turntable how would I set that up with
DCC. Thanks to anyone who replies to this message.
jeff
64
Re: Reverse loops?
Posted by Tim on January 22, 2002, 07:30pm
Jeff,
Reverse sections of track (reverse loops, wyes,turntables, ect ...)
are handled the same way in DCC. Isolate both rails on both
ends. Power that section through a seperate auto reversing
power booster (NCE boosters have a switch that can make it
auto rev. or not) or you can install a auto reversing power shield
(see tonys online product list,Tonys exclusive products, PS Rev.
Power Shield). Good luck,
Tim
Re: Reverse loops?
Posted by Terry on January 25, 2002, 11:13pm
I'm using Tony's Auto Reverse units (PSRev) along with the
Instant Trip Circuit Breakers (PS)
I'm not saying they are the best but I'm very happy with these
units. One of our club members hard wired a decoder between
his turntable motor and a track bus.He selects the decoder # with
his throttle, turns the control knob and the turntable starts
turning.He can stop the table at any track right on the button. Hit
the reverse button, turn the knob and the table starts moving in
the opposite direction. Neat !!
Re: Re: Reverse loops?
Posted by Jacques W. on January 26, 2002, 10:20am
Using a decoder to control a turntable is indeed a neat trick, can
you tell me what type of decoder your friend used?
Re: Re: Reverse loops?
Posted by Tim on January 26, 2002, 12:28pm
Terry,
Tell your friend that's a great idea. He should send it in to Model
Railroader. They pay for articles and publishable ideas.
Tim
Re: Re: Re: Reverse loops?
Posted by Terry on January 27, 2002, 05:12pm
Tim & Jacques W.
Thanks for the interest in using a decoder to operate a turntable.
My buddy who did the installation is out of town and won't be
back until after the Springfield show in Mass. Feb.2&3. I'll
speak to him when he returns and get back to you with any info
I can.
Terry
Turnouts and decoders??
Posted by Jeff on January 21, 2002, 07:53pm
To anyone who can answer this question!! I am new to the hobby
and am getting ready to set up my first layout. I am going with DCC
and wondering what is needed to for DCC turnouts. I am thinking
about the Atlas code 83 custom turnout. The question is which
switch motor do I use and which is the best decoder. I thank anyone
in advance who answers this!!
Jeff
Re: Turnouts and decoders??
Posted by Tim on January 22, 2002, 01:51am
Jeff,
Welcome to Model Railroading!!!! To answer your Question: If
I were to use DCC to control turnouts I would use North Coast
Engineering "Switch -it" Check out Tonys online product list
under NCE. While your in the product list, check out publications
for books on DCC. The Tortise switch machines are very
popular and will work with atlas turnouts. Good luck,
Tim
Re: Turnouts and decoders??
Posted by DonV on January 22, 2002, 12:06pm
The CVP AD4 series accessory decoders work well with Atlas
twin coil switch machines. The less costly version of AD4 or
NCE switch-it both work well w/ tortiose motors.
DonV
Zimo DCC system
Posted by E. T. Halloran on January 20, 2002, 10:18pm
Has anyone had any experience with the Zimo DCC system. Zimo
uses LAN networking like the ones used in the automotive and
medical industry. Is this faster and more reliable than the Digitrax
Loconet which is also a LAN type networking system. Also I
understand that TTX carries "ZIMO" products. Does TTX stock the
Zimo DCC starter set?
Sincerely,
E.T. Halloran
how many pounds does this engine weigh
Posted by allegheny2666 on January 19, 2002, 11:55pm
Does anybody know how many pounds/ounces the russian decapod
weighs. Thanks
Do they sell these engines
Posted by Allegheny2666 on January 18, 2002, 12:02pm
Does anybody know if they sell a SD70M or SD60 or both in CSX
paint scheme.Thanks Allegheny2666
Re: Do they sell these engines
Posted by fmilhaupt on January 19, 2002, 08:58am
Yes, Life-Like sells an HO SD60 in CSX "Grey Ghost" paint.
It's not current production any more, so you may have to look a
bit to find it.
-fm
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Do they sell these engines
Posted by Jacques W. on January 19, 2002, 09:48am
Athearn in their Genesis Series is producing an SD70. On their
Web Site they show the picture of prototype engine #4685,
which is a SD70M and I beleive still active on the CSXT.
Proto 2000 also produced a limited run of an SD60 standard
cap, featuring the Stealth paint scheme.
You will have to replace the horns, bell and plow to make it
closer to prototype. I personnally find the Stealth scheme rather
unactractive and had an undec unit painted to the Bright Future
scheme this makes an autstanding engine.
walthers new passenger station
Posted by allegheny2666 on January 16, 2002, 03:22pm
Does anybody know the date when walthers starts selling there new
union station.Thanks allegheny
Re: walthers new passenger station
Posted by Norm. on January 16, 2002, 05:08pm
Allegheny2662. In response to your query. Walthers Website,
under New Products - Jan.2002 indicates that the Union Station
kit is expected to arrive at Walthers on Jan 18th. (two days from
now). For what it's worth - sometimes the delivery date is right
on. Hope this helps.
Re: walthers new passenger station
Posted by Norm. on January 17, 2002, 02:57pm
Allegheny, guess what! Ignore yesterday's message.
Today, Walther's Website now says that the Union Station kit is
expected for March 28th.
I'm just as sorry about that as you are. Just a patient and
sometimes frustrated model railroader trying to help out a
brother.
RE: irresponsible posts
Posted by Bob Miller on January 16, 2002, 08:47am
Actually Paul, if you re-read my post, I was simply aying to
"Willie" that he might have had better results using the telephone to
contact NCE. That certainly doesn't place me at odds with him, other
than the fact he has been complaining NCE didn't answer his emails.
If someone doesn't answer an email I send about their product, then
I call on the phone.
Sorry you misunderstood my intent.
Re: RE: irresponsible posts
Posted by Paul on January 16, 2002, 09:50am
Bob, my mistake, I confused you with Steve Z who made some
very harsh remarks toward Willy, who I believe is in Australia.
If a company doesn't want to answer emails then why have an
email address? I can understand why Willy would not want to
call as I think Australia is a 12 hour time difference, that creates
a problem itself, the cost of the international call is another
factor, even if you know the person you want to talk to is there
when you call. Some companys go the extra mile for customers
and some don't, it's that simple. If NCE looks at this message
board, it might be a good idea for them to respond to Willy and
recreate a good customer relationship, it may be as simple as
undelivered emails, we all know that happens. Paul
Re: Re: RE: irresponsible posts
Posted by willy on January 28, 2002, 05:57am
hi paul, thank you for your words of support,you outlined my
points exactly,& expressed them better than I. the time difference
is always a factor,i generally have to do alittle math when i call
the U.S, depending on what time-zone and whether you have put
your clocks back or forward we are 12-16 hours ahead of you.If
you feel inclined say G/day sometime I'm at
graemar@ozemail.com.au cheers from oz.
Running double crossover switch
Posted by Doug on January 11, 2002, 10:08pm
Does anyone have experience running a double crossover switch
were one switch runs one set of diagonal switches and another
switch runs the other set of diagonal switches.
I am having a problem when only one switch is hooked up it is fine,
but when two switches are hooked up, there does not seem to be
enough power to properly activate both of them.
Is there a trick to this?
Re: Running double crossover switch
Posted by Jim Heidorn on January 11, 2002, 11:35pm
Doug,
I have a double crossover switch on my layout and I use a three
position rotary switch controlling the four Tortoise switch
machines and it works like it should.
Re: Running double crossover switch
Posted by Jim Heidorn on January 12, 2002, 08:16am
Doug, After my previous reply, I realized that it wasn't much
help to you. What kind of switch motors do you have installed?
Re: Re: Running double crossover switch
Posted by Doug on January 12, 2002, 11:02am
Jim,
These are the components:
Atlas #56 switch control box.
Atlas #850 snap switch remote control.
Atlas #283 #6 turnout.
Thanks for any help.
There are two sets of double turnouts, one works, but one pair
doesn't. They activate, but don't seem to have enough power to
fully switch the track.
Re: Re: Re: Running double crossover switch
Posted by Jacques W. on January 12, 2002, 11:55am
Doug
A capacitor discharge unit should do.
Refer to the book Practical Electronic Projets for Model
Railroaders for plans to make one.
They are also available commercially.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 65

66
Re: Running double crossover switch
Posted by John on January 13, 2002, 04:31pm
Doug, save yourself a lot of agrivation and just wire them the
old way with a dpdt or momentary switch depending on the
switch motor you have. Many stationary decoders do not have
the power to operate two switch motors at the same time. John
Re: Re: Re: Running double crossover switch
Posted by Tim on January 14, 2002, 10:37pm
Doug,
I'm not there to see your set-up. I think you have the right idea
inyour last post "don't seem to have enough power" What are
you powering the switch machines with? Possibly there is just
enough to power the one set but not the other set. No two switch
machines pull the exact same current. Far fetched it may seem.
Try bigger power source. Try replacing switch machine that
doesn't throw.
Tim
Decoder for Athern
Posted by Dick Baxter on January 09, 2002, 10:22pm
I have two Athern Loco's that have flat metal contact and would like
to add a DCC Decoder to each. Can anyone tell me how that is done
with these loco's?
Re: Decoder for Athern
Posted by Tim on January 10, 2002, 06:53am
Dick, are these "Genesis" line locomotives? If not,please E-mail
me as there is not enough room in this space to explain.
tim49544@aol.com
Tim
Re: Decoder for Athern
Posted by DonV on January 10, 2002, 11:46am
See the System-One website. You can get to it via the link from
Tony's suppliers list. Look for decoder type DH157A. This is a
pcb replacement decoder that fits well but does require work to
isolate the motor and replace lamps.
DonV
Rock Junction??
Posted by Chuck Horvath on January 09, 2002, 10:13pm
Hey, does anyone know what happened to Rock Junction Controls??
Thir web page is gone and the 800 number doesn't work either,
Thanks,Chuck
helichuck@iglide.net
allegheny 2-6-6-6
Posted by steam loco man on January 09, 2002, 10:06pm
How many cars can the Allegheny pull up a 1% grade Thanks
Re: allegheny 2-6-6-6
Posted by Terry on January 09, 2002, 11:31pm
I just pulled 38 50' loaded hoppers with metal wheels up a 1.5%
curved grade on my railroad. She seemed to walk right up the
grade with no problem but the coupler on the tender kept
opening up under that load. Guess I'll have to replace it with a
Kadee. This month's MR mag reviews the Allegheny and states
it should pull 120 cars,I guess on flat straight track. I've
experienced a lot of sqeeking coming from someplace both on
curves and straight track and can't get rid of it. If you own
one,I'd be interested to know If you have the same problem.
Hope this helps.
Re: Re: allegheny 2-6-6-6
Posted by allegheny2666 on January 10, 2002, 10:46am
mine makes the same noise as yours.where can you buy
MRmagzines
Re: Re: Re: allegheny 2-6-6-6
Posted by Terry on January 10, 2002, 05:14pm
The MR magazine I'm refering to is Model Railroader and can
sometimes be found in the magazine section of bookstores. I
subscribe and receive it thru the mail. Call 1-800-533-6644 or on
line at modelrailroader.com to order the Feb. 2002 issue, where
they reviewed the Allegheny. I'm going to bring my 2-6-6-6 to
our club and have some of our experts take a look at it to try to
rid it of the noise. I'll keep you posted on what I find out if
you're interested.
Re: Re: Re: Re: allegheny 2-6-6-6
Posted by Ed McCamey on January 11, 2002, 10:08am
Terry, The LL Y3 also exibited that same noise at times. Turned
out to be the axles in the tender. The pickup wipers actually were
causing it. Try some of the very light conducta lube on the
pickups area. Use fine graphite for all the wheel bearings instead
of wet lube. I think the same factory (Lima) built these machines.
atheran dash 9 coupler
Posted by Paul Boucher on January 09, 2002, 02:12pm
I have a dash 9 that takes a KD -5 in the rear box at the correct
height. I've tried a long coupler in the front box w/o success (To
clear the plow). The height comes out about 1/64th too low.
Any suggestions on getting the coupler height right?
Re: atheran dash 9 coupler
Posted by Bob Johnson on April 09, 2003, 03:52pm
I am not sure if you are using the Athearn coupler cover on the
box. If so replace it with the skinny side of a Kdee draft box, cut
it to fit down inside the box on the frame so that it is right on top
of the coupler shank. This is what I did on mine and the heights
come out perfect. Good luck.
Decoder Selection
Posted by HOS on January 09, 2002, 10:49am
Can anyone recommend the best decoder choices for the following
HO locos? My goals are as follows:
Ease of Installation(doing it myself)
Low Cost
Minimize operating noise (buzzing)
I also want to try sound in at least one deisel and one steam loco,
but still need to meet the above criteria.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Here are Locos
Bachman 2-8-0
Athearn Genesis 2-8-2
LL P2K 0-8-0
Atlas RS-1
Atlas GP-7
LL P2K GP-7
LL P2K FA1/FB1
Stewart F7A/B
I am using a Digitrax Big boy system.
Re: Decoder Selection
Posted by John O on January 15, 2002, 10:38pm
Hi HOS,
If your Athearn 2-8-2 is the Mikado, I'm using a Digitrax
DH121 with the plug (I think that makes it a "P"). It was dead
simple to install, disconnect old light board and plug in decoder.
For the P2K's, I'm using the NCE 104 decoders that I bought
from Tony with no problem (I'll leave the NCE discussion thread
alone). They're also PNP, although you need to switch light
bulbs to 14V units (no soldering required).
Hope this helps, I'm also running Digitrax which handles all
makes of decoders that I've used with no issue.
Re: Decoder Selection
Posted by cjlm on January 21, 2002, 12:55pm
I installed a Soundtraxx DSD150 in my 2-8-2. Some work
installing the speaker in the tender but everyting else plugged
right in. Not sure how easy an install you want.
Sound makes all the difference.
Running with a Lenz DCC system so track voltage was okay.
Chris
Re: Decoder Selection
Posted by Tim on January 22, 2002, 02:01am
HOS,
I have installed NCE decoders in the following: P2K GP-7 =
P2K-SR, Stewart F A/B = DA-SR, Atlas GP-7 = D14-SR(plug
in) or DA-SR (my preferance). I Believe that these decoders will
work for the following: PsK 0-8-0 = KRS-SR, Atlas RS-1 =
DA-SR, Bachman 2-8-0 = D14SRP. All of these decoders are
NOT sound equipped, but are the new generation of "silent
running" decoders.
Good luck,
Tim
NCE Radios ship 1/4
Posted by Mike on January 03, 2002, 06:08pm
According to Chris at NCE volume shipping of radio units is to
start Friday the 4th
Irresponsible Posts
Posted by Steve Z. on January 03, 2002, 11:29am
The recent posts by 'Willy', a known anti NCE bigot from his recent
posts to this bulletin board, and 'Railwiz' are completely irresponsible
considering neither is in a position to know squat about ANY
DCC manufacturer's financial position. Frankly, its liable pure and
simple and has no place here. Hey, Tony, bar these folks from this
site if you can. They have nothing but poison to spread. By the way,
Railwiz, please let us know who your rumor mongering dealer is.
Re: Irresponsible Posts
Posted by JOHN on January 03, 2002, 05:09pm
I AGREE 100%, THIS KIND OF MEAN UNCALLED FOR
STATEMENT IS VERY VISCOUS. ANY QUALITY
DEALER WOULD NEVER MAKE THIS TYPE OF STATE-
MENT. LETS HOPE THIS KIND OF THING SOON ENDS,
BECAUSE WE ALL COULD END UP BEING THE NEXT
TARGET --- JOHN
Re: Irresponsible Posts
Posted by willy on January 14, 2002, 06:00am
to steve z u accuse me of being a bigot steve, my dictionary
defines it as "intolerant"let me say my piece & let others decide. I
have been using D.C.C for 2&half years,i use D/coders from D/
trax,lenz T.C.S & N.C.E.I have either blown(sometimes my
fault) or had decoders fail from all 4 makers.The first 3 makers
have responded to faxes,e/mails,& replaced or repaired(either no
charge or small charge but thats o.k.i dont expect them to correct
my mistakes for free),I cant even get a reply to numerous e/mails
&faxes sent to N.C.E.I if that makes me a bigot in your eyes
steve then we must have different dictionaries.I am just a simple
consumer who expects a little after-sales service on anything i
buy, be it a motor car or a $30 decoder
Re: Re: Irresponsible Posts
Posted by Bob Miller on January 14, 2002, 09:19am
Actually, you probably would get a better response using the
telephone, which is still the better way to communicate with
someone when you need to talk to just that person, Jim Scorse,
instead of sending an email to a computer somewhere that may
or may not get read. Happens all the time, but I have NEVER
had a problem getting a response from NCE.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Irresponsible Posts
Posted by Paul on January 15, 2002, 05:36pm
Bob, with all due respects to you and Willy who seem to be at
odds with each other, some companys are very carring about
their customers and some are not. My suggestion is to buy
products from a company you feel comfortable with and let it go
at that. Paul
Re: Re: Re: Irresponsible Posts
Posted by willy on January 28, 2002, 05:27am
hi bob, yes i appreciate your sugestion re phone call, but i live in
australia and because of time difference i find more convenient to
fax or e/mail, cheaper also.
Lionel wanted 50's&60's
Posted by EToth on December 27, 2001, 11:38pm
I am looking for any Lionel made up to the early to mid 60's.
e-mail QuakeND@aol.com
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coreless motors??
Posted by Tim on December 27, 2001, 06:00pm
Does anyone know what a "coreless" motor is and what style
decoder (NCE "SR" series,ect...)will work with them?
Thanks
68
Re: coreless motors??
Posted by Ed McCamey on December 28, 2001, 11:37am
Tim, The "coreless" motors are built with the armature being all
wire without any metal mass and therefor no magnetism "hold".
Sometimes called "micro motors". Mostly Faulbuer brand. Use a
Lenz LE 080, LE 077, or the TCS T1, or a ZIMO MX51. Needs
a "silent drive" or very high frequency drive.
Re: Re: coreless motors??
Posted by Tim on December 31, 2001, 11:17pm
Thanks Ed. Sounds like the NCE "SR" line will work.
Tim
DC input NCE powerhouse pro
Posted by Rod on December 23, 2001, 01:17am
Has anybody had personal experiense with connecting DC20v into
NCE POWERHOUSE Pro. The manual has a lot to say about what
not to do with AC voltage, particularly overvoltage saying this will
fry the unit.
They say you can use 18-28v DC, but not a word and no markings
about DC polarity! I assume that the system is diode protected and
no damage will result if the connection is made in reverse.
Anybody got any solid experience?
Re: DC input NCE powerhouse pro
Posted by Dale Gloer on December 23, 2001, 09:09pm
Rod, since the input may be either AC or DC you cannot hook
up the DC backwards! Just connect and enjoy as long as the
voltage is within published specifications.
Dale.
NCE Wireless???????
Posted by Ken on December 19, 2001, 07:26am
Does anyone have any idea as to the ststus of NCE wireless? I have
had a system on order for 18 months. Repeated emails to NCE for
some kind of encouragement have gone unanswered, and they have
not updated their web site since 9/5/01. Help!!
Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by Mike on December 19, 2001, 11:44pm
snipped post from NCE-SYS1 yahoo group:
From: Mark Gurries
Date: Fri Dec 14, 2001 5:22 pm
Subject: Radio Update
Just talked to Jim at NCE.
The first quantity shipments of the radio should be out before the
end of
the year. Sample of the first radios are out in some peoples
hands. I
expect tony at TTX to say something very soon since he has got
one to
play with.
The boards and parts are basically all in. Cab radio production is
just
getting started with some base stations already built. Very limited
distribution by Christmas with bigger shipment to follow as
stated above.
Snipped because could not post on TTX board account of large
size
Re: Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by Ken on December 20, 2001, 07:30am
Thanks, Mike.
Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by Stan on December 22, 2001, 12:42pm
Ken, try not to feel too bad about not getting any answer to your
emails, it seems to be standard procedure, me too! For the most
part I like my Powerhouse, but responding to questions does not
seem to be something NCE wants to do. I did cancel the radio
conversion I had on order for this reason. Stan
Re: Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by willy on December 28, 2001, 10:20pm
hi stan, iagree with you re N.C.E. response to e/mail problems
&???,i have been trying for months to get a response to decoder
problems (faxes + e/mails) seems they are just not interested.
they make a point of advertising how good their stuff is but
backing it up with a bit of after sales service is too much
trouble.perhaps the stories about them on the way out of
business are true. they wont be missed.
Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by joe binish on December 29, 2001, 07:41am
Gee, every time I have called on the telephone, I have been
helped immediatly, usually by Jim himself. Give them a call!
Re: Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by Bob Miller on December 29, 2001, 11:38pm
Yes, they would be missed because there are a lot of us who use
NCE and are very satisfied. I have not had a problem getting
answers from NCE, but there is a good nce group on yahoo who
can answer about any tech question.
Re: Re: Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by RAILWIZ on December 31, 2001, 07:26pm
I think you got your companies mixed up Willie. It is Wangrow
and Lenz that in financial trouble. NCE and Digitrax are both
doing very well. I went home to Rochester for Thanksgiving and
stopped by NCE to get a cab upgraded in November. They were
filling orders like crazy when I was there. My dealer (name
withheld because this is TTX website) tells me that Lenz stuff is
ALWAYS backordered and Wangrow hasn't shipped anything in
two years.
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by Lenz Support on January 03, 2002, 07:37am
> It is xxxxx and Lenz that are
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in financial trouble. My
>dealer tells me that Lenz stuff
>is ALWAYS backordered
RAILWIZ
Let me assure you that we are not in any finical trouble. We have
just finished our most successful year to date and have shipped
more than 1 million decoders since we began production. In
2001 we opened a new factory and added staff in both Germany
and the US in order to keep up with demand.
I have no idea why your dealer is having problems getting
equipment. We maintain a very large inventory in the US and
normally ship to dealers within 2-5 days of receipt of order. I
would like to thank Tony for providing us the opportunity to
respond to this rather strange message.
Debbie Ames
Director of North American Sales
Lenz GmbH
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE Wireless???????
Posted by JOHN on January 03, 2002, 09:17am
RAILWIZ, YOUR DEALER SEEMS TO BE THE ONLY ONE
HAVING PROBLEMS GETTING PRODUCTS FROM
LENZ. I AM A DEALER THAT SELLS ONLY DCC PROD-
UCTS AND I HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH
THE LENZ LINE. ALL MANUFACTURERS AT TIMES
RUN SHORT OF PRODUCTS. MAYBE YOUR DEALER
ONLY WANTS TO ORDER ONE ITEM AT A TIME AND
WANTS IT THE NEXT DAY. TELL YOUR DEALER TO
TRY STOCKING PRODUCTS FOR A CHANGE AND
THEN THEY WILL HAVE STOCK ON HAND WHEN
SHORTAGES OCCUR. AS THIS IS TONYS SITE, I WILL
NOT MENTION MY NAME AT THIS TIME, HOWEVER
THIS KIND OF GOSSIP IS VERY UNFAIR. HOW WOULD
YOU LIKE THIS SAID ABOUT YOU, THINK ABOUT
IT!!!! -------JOHN
hours
Posted by larry on December 08, 2001, 06:21am
you should post your hours of operation to your web site
Re: hours
Posted by graeme on December 12, 2001, 12:47am
hi larry, what on earth are you talking about? or did i miss
something? graeme.
Re: Re: hours
Posted by Ed McCamey on December 12, 2001, 01:47pm
I'm certain Larry ment the message to Tony. He want's to know
when TTX is open for calls.
Larry - Tony doesn't always read this message center - he
provides it to us for sharing! Give Tony a direct e-mail - or jsut
call in the middle of the day.
Speaker Terminals
Posted by Art on December 03, 2001, 10:51am
Need help in connecting a Soundtraxx DSX to a speaker. How can I
determine the positive terminal on the speaker if it is not marked. I
am using the 1.1" round speaker from Tony's.
Re: Speaker Terminals
Posted by ed B on December 03, 2001, 12:19pm
Here goes.
I think that if you use a DC battery and touch the speaker
terminals the speaker cone should move out away from the coil;
if it doesn't the terminals are reversed. The speaker + is the same
as the batery +.
Re: Re: Speaker Terminals
Posted by Art on December 04, 2001, 11:53am
Ed,
Thanks again'
Art
two booster
Posted by ed B on November 30, 2001, 12:12pm
this should be no different then HO steamer with pickup on one
side from the engine and the other side from the tender. The
crossing from one power station to the next should be invisible to
the decoder. There is a situation where using two or more power
stations (boosters) have to be "phased". How this is done is booster
dependant and the DCC system manual should tell you this. A good
discussion is given at the Tried & True Trains (Deb Ames)web
page. The rail gaps should (must)be across from each other.
Common rail is not recommended for multi boosters due to one
booster shutdown effecting the other booster. Also your power buss
for each booster (you do have them) should not be connected to
each other. Each booster should only power the rail between the rail
gaps. Ed B.
Re: two booster
Posted by Art on December 01, 2001, 08:50am
Ed,
Thanks, I think you've given me the answer. It appeared that it
worked okay at one time but I probably got out of phase as I
expanded the DCC to other sections of the layout.
Thanks again.
Art
P.S. Do you have the web site address for Tried and True ?
Re: Re: two booster
Posted by Ed B on December 03, 2001, 12:17pm
I believe its www.tttrains.com
Glad i could help
Well Done!
Posted by C. Thompson on November 26, 2001, 12:32pm
Your ad in Model Railroader with the miniatures of Old Glory is the
smartest and most patriotic idea I have seen in a long time. Now my
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"G" scale village can join the rest of the USA in supporting our war
on terrorism.
Well done!
NCE & MRC decoders
Posted by Reid Cooper on November 22, 2001, 08:33pm
Does anyone know how to program the decoders from MRC using
NCE Power Pro....I can't get any of the MRC decoders to be
recognized by the system.
70
Re: NCE & MRC decoders
Posted by Jim on November 24, 2001, 06:45pm
YOU HAVE TO SET THE NCE SYSTEM TO 28 SPEED
STEPS TO RUN A MRC DECODER
Re: Re: NCE & MRC decoders
Posted by Ed on November 24, 2001, 08:38pm
Actually - for many MRC decoders, you may need to set the
command station to 14 speed steps! Early decoders only
supported 14 steps.
NCE Two Boosters
Posted by Art on November 21, 2001, 05:09pm
I am in 2 rail O Scale, using an NCE 10 Amp system with two
boosters, each booster covering half of the layout. When my All
Nation diesels cross from one booster section to the other the speed
is cut in half and the lites dim. These engines do not have 8 wheel
pickup so they are not crossing bot gaps simultaneously. Two
wheels on the back truck pickup from one rail, and two wheels on
the front truck pickup from the other rail. Any suggestions other
than trying to convert to 8 wheel pickup which is not easy ?
Re: NCE Two Boosters
Posted by Dale Gloer on November 22, 2001, 07:39am
You need to have the two rail gaps between booster sections line
up. Otherwise, what you are seeing is what would be expected.
Dale
Re: Re: NCE Two Boosters
Posted by Art on November 22, 2001, 11:49am
Dale,
Thanks for the quick reply. My gaps are lined up, however, due
to the pickup on the All Nation engines, the pickup wheels for
each rail on the engine do not cross the gaps at the same time. I
have a temporary fix by using only one booster to the whole
layout.
It appears that I will have to rig some type of all wheel pickup on
the engines unless there is an electronic solution. Is common rail
a possibility ? Any ideas on how to electrify all wheels when
two on each truck are isolated from the axles ?
How hard is it?
Posted by Daniel on November 17, 2001, 09:05am
Okay, yes, I am new to the hobby in a way, and now I see things I
have never heard of. What can you do with DCC, and how hard is
it? Can you have more than one mainline. Can you control turnouts?
Am I asking too much?? Please help!!
Re: How hard is it?
Posted by Leonard Stern on November 17, 2001, 09:46pm
In answer to 2 of your questions. More than 1 mainline and
controlling turnouts the answer is "yes". Basically DCC allows
you to control the locomotives and trains rather than blocks of
track. If you have or know of a RR club in your area check to
see if they are into DCC. Contact them and visit to see DCC in
action. Check also the NMRA web site for more info. I am a
Digitrax user since 1998 and very pleased with their system.
Check in at digitrax.com for more info. Hopes this helps you.
Re: Re: How hard is it?
Posted by Norm. on November 18, 2001, 11:25am
Welcome to the hobby Daniel. DCC may seem intimidating at
first but it is not hard, it's actually easier. I would suggest you
obtain a copy of THE BOOK on DCC. "THE COMPREHEN-
SIVE GUIDE TO DCC" by Stan Ames, Rutger Friberg & Ed
Loiseaux. You can find it here on TTX's website. On TTX'S
Home Page, click on 'Online Products List' then scroll down to
'Publications', then scroll down to DIGITAL COMMAND
CONTROL, there you will find a description of the book's
contents.
This is Novenber and model railroading month. Check out the
listings in the model RR magazines for any train shows in your
area. More and more modular groups are operating with DCC.
Happy modelling.
Re: How hard is it?
Posted by Terry on November 26, 2001, 11:31pm
Daniel-I hope you are still thinking DCC. Our club just switched
over to a Digitrax DCC system. Some of our older members
who never ran a train using the old cab control system are now
operating for the first time. You should see the smiles on their
faces-no more electrical blocks to switch on and off-they love
it.I'm building a new railroad in my basement using a NCE DCC
system.I've been in the hobby for 35 years and have never
enjoyed running trains more than I am now.
I know you'll enjoy the world of DCC-just give it a chance.
Terry
Re: How hard is it?
Posted by John O on January 15, 2002, 10:49pm
Dan,
DCC is dead simple, two wires running all around underneath
the layout with feeders up to the track, and you're done (special
needs for reverse loops). As for control, my son was running
trains at 3 years old, all that's required there is to know how to
count to 100 and tell the difference between red and green
flashing lights (at least that's with Digitrax).
Jump in, the waters' fine.
Re: How hard is it?
Posted by Leo on January 17, 2002, 12:46am
Daniel, since you're on Tony's web site, why don't you give him
a call and ask the questions you have about dcc. There are also
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other places to call for information, just look in Model Railroader
Magazine and make a few calls. Leo
decorder for P2K S1
Posted by Allen Gaspers on November 15, 2001, 02:17pm
What is the recomended decorder for a P2K S1? Thanks Allen.
Enough DCC For Everyone
Posted by Tim on November 10, 2001, 08:31am
After reading the recent notes about Digitrax vs NCE etc..... I
would like to offer up an observation. I think it's awesome that we
have a choice. Back in the "good old days" we had block control or
no control. Now we have several different manufacturers producing
compatable (usualy)equipment. I am an NCE user and am happy
with it, it's my railroad. Maybe your a Digitrax user and thats
alright, it's your railroad.
Digitrac opinion
Posted by Richard on November 06, 2001, 05:34pm
I personally have bought a Digitrac Genesis which is the starter
setup they offer. What led me to choose it was the lower cost to start
in DCC and the expandable nature of their system. While I have
little desire to know the engineering of a DCC system it did seem
important to build in a certain amount of flexiblity for future
development. I currently only have a limited number of freinds to
operate and this system will do fine untill there is a major change. I
use two walkaround thottles and can add more without any great
expense. The programming seemed to be very simple but I must
admit that I have not gone into any great depth on that. I operate 9
single locomotives and have two multiples that I leave together.
While it is necessary to stop operations while I do programming, I
don't find this to be a problem on a home layout. It gives my friends
time to unwind and get coffee while we decide what to run where!!
Re: Digitrac opinion
Posted by graeme on November 22, 2001, 03:47am
hi richard,sounds like you and you friends enjoy yourselves i
wish i had someone to play with.I also use D/trax. You
mentioned shutting down to program, I presume you know that
everything exept addreses can be changed using ''OPS
mode''without having to shut down ,i/e lights,acc. dec.consist
addreses etc cheers from Australia.
Re: Re: Digitrac opinion
Posted by John O on January 15, 2002, 10:46pm
More kudos for Digitrax, good to hear. I started with a BigBoy
in 1993 and upgraded to a Chief 2 years ago. While I'll never
need to have 22 throttles (or whatever the max is) or 100 engines
running simultaneously, I just like to know that I could if I
wanted to. As for the programming comment, I don't think the
Genesis system could do that, I'm sure Loy's Toys site would
help answer that one.
Re: Re: Digitrac opinion
Posted by Dale Gloer on January 16, 2002, 10:08am
Graeme,
you can't generalize when making statements about what you can
or can't do when programming decoders. For example OPS
mode programming is not supported by all decoders, the
Digitrax DH121 is one that comes to mind.
Dale.
Re: Re: Re: Digitrac opinion
Posted by graeme on January 28, 2002, 05:38am
hi dale sorry if i appeard to be "gneralizing'about ops mode
perhaps i should have said"the vast majority" i have several
dh121 so i am aware of their limitations .i was just mentioning
something to richard which i thought would be helpfull so dont
bite my head of.
Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by Bill on October 24, 2001, 09:53am
I've been reading the messages about Digitrax & NCE as to which
is the best, I saw no mention of Lenz. I want to buy a new dcc
system this week and don't want to make a mistake, any input
would be a big help. Bill
Re: Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by Dale Gloer on October 24, 2001, 10:52am
Bill,
if you ask a Digitrax owner, then Digitrax is best; if you ask an
NCE owner then NCE is best; if you ...
Well, you get the idea. I own Digitrax and use both. Both are
excellent systems. They do have different unique features and
you have to decide which is more important to you. Ideally you
should find an opportunity to use both before deciding.
Whichever you choose, you are not committed to using one
brand of decoders.
I know this is a wishy washy kind of answer but the bottom line
really is user preference.
Both organization have good product support and customer
service. Having good dealer support is also an asset.
Dale Gloer
Re: Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on October 24, 2001, 12:06pm
I have a Lenz 01 system, and I am very happy with the product
and support (local hobby shop and Lenz). I agree that whatever
system you use you will be pleased. Tony (and staff) have been
a great help too! Tony offers a very complete DCC comparison
chart explaining the features of the systems. There is an article
(DCC buyer's guide 2001)in the November 2001 Model
Railroader magazine that gives a brief description on the DCC
products currently available. I fully support the notion to try
before you buy. Good luck!
Re: Re: Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by Norm on October 24, 2001, 01:21pm
I agree 100% with Dale. If possible, attend local train shows.
Find clubs and/or local model railroaders using different DCC
systems on their layouts. Arrange visits and ask questions and, if
permitted, get a hands on feeling for each system. Of course, be
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72
a polite and courteous guest. Each host beleives they have the
best system. You may be invited back or to join a group.
If your a 'Lone Wolf',usually this can be arranged through your
local friendly hobby shop as well.
Whatever DCC system you choose, any DCC equipped
locomotive will operate on it.
Au Revoir, from the Great White North.
Re: Re: Re: Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by ED B on October 25, 2001, 12:08pm
I also agree with before buying testing. I have CPV's EasyDCC.
I like the system. When you review the operation of the systems
there will be pros & cons; some of them no obvious. Such as,
with CPV I can use the program track & still operate trains. This
could not be done with some of the other systems at the time i
bought my system. Basically what you buy is what has the most
you like & afford. Note that none of the discussion has said the
XXX system does not work because of flaws, vendor support,
etc. ed
Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by graeme on October 26, 2001, 03:23am
to ed.b not sure what you u ment in the last part of you statement
about 'good' back up support from the companies mentioned. Ed
i tried to make the point that i have sent N.C.E. faxes & approx 5
E/mails regarding 3 decoders that have either blown or functions
quit(dont suggest i phone because of time difference here in
Australia) not always convenient after all how long can it take to
type a few e/mail lines. N.C.E.back-up service doesnt exist as far
as i can tell.other D.C.C. folk have helprd and replaced promptly.
e.g. D/trax &T.C.S. cheers from oz.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by Mike on October 26, 2001, 09:28am
I have a hard time believing that NCE has not replied to your
problem. Jim has always replied to any email I have posted, even
on the Yahoo group site. I have had trouble getting through on
the company email sites at times, but he does reply to
JScorse@aol.com.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by Bill on October 26, 2001, 11:01am
Mike & others. After watching all the comments this week about
Digitrax & NCE, very confusing, I decided to make my own
small email warranty test with both. I wanted to buy a Dcc
system this week. This morning I ordered a Digitrax Super
Chief Radio system. I think this will work for me. Thanks for all
the comments. Bill
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax Vs NCE
Posted by graeme on November 22, 2001, 04:00am
hi mike, thanks for your sugestion re N.C.E. & JScorse e/mail
address I tried it over a week ago, still nothing,N.C.E.name is
''mud''at my house.cheers from Oz.
NCE products
Posted by Bob Miller on October 21, 2001, 06:48pm
Have been using NCE control system for about 3 years, have not
had problems with it, and had no problem with service. I too, am
waiting for the NCE wireless, but recently ran on a friend's layout
with Digitrax and I wouldn't touch that system with a 10 foot pole.
I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Bob Miller
Re: NCE products
Posted by Stan on October 22, 2001, 09:57am
Bob, I have NCE on my layout and my club uses a Digitrax
Chief. Your 10 foot pole statement about Digitrax tells me you
know very little about the Digitrax system. Maybe you should
have used your friends system a little more before making such a
statement. They're both very good DCC systems. Stan
Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by Bob Miller on October 22, 2001, 02:50pm
I stand by my statement. I have operated on the Digitrax several
times, another uses RailCommand, yet another the Easy DCC.
Actually, the RailCommand is the best, but not DCC, but basic
command control.
However, I also remember how much trouble my friend had
getting the Digitrax to operate correctly, and my NCE was
literally plug and play on a railroad that had been operated with
Dynatrol prior.
Re: Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by Ken on October 23, 2001, 07:33am
I wish to add the following: I have NCE on my home layout
(On3), and we have Easy DCC Wireless on our club HO layout,
and Digitrax on our club G layout. NCE wins hands down. I
have had the NCE wireless on order since July 2000, and will
continue to wait patiently.
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by Stan on October 23, 2001, 10:55am
Bob & Ken, This is like Chevys & Fords. We all have opinions
and although I have NCE at home, if you ever ran a digitrax with
the DT400, I think you're opinions would quickly change as to
which is the best! I'm not changing my system at home, but your
hands down and ten foot pole statements are very inaccurate. If I
had to do it all over again, I'd have to give it some serious
thought. Like I said they're both good. Stan
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by Bob on October 23, 2001, 03:08pm
Ken
What about NCE makes you feel so strong about it and what
about the Digitrax system do you not like.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by Bob Miller on October 23, 2001, 06:36pm
Sorry Stan, but my statements are not inaccurate as you put it,
because they are how I feel based on my experience. So again, I
stand on my feelings, and that makes them very accurate for me.
Bob Miller
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by Stan on October 23, 2001, 10:59pm
Bob M. I didn't want to create a controversy as to which is best,
that can't be resolved if we each like our diferent systems. The
only point I wanted to make is, don't just flat out knock another
system just because you have something else. I use both and see
the benefits of each one, too bad they're not all in one DCC
system.
Stan
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by Bob Miller on October 23, 2001, 11:29pm
Stan: plain and simple, as I have said several times, I have
operated with other systems, I have listened to the owners about
likes/dislikes and I am firmly convinced in saying that I wouldn't
be interested in another system THAT I HAVE OPERATED
WITH.
I am not saying one brand is better than the other. I particularily
don't like the master cab for NCE as it is clunky as far as I am
concerned to use in an op session, which is why I have 14 of the
cab04 throttles for op sessions. But I do like the easy and
effortless way the system plugged into my existing railroad
using 4 boosters with separate power districts, and I like the way
it continues to operate without glitches.
Nuff Said. Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by graeme on October 24, 2001, 01:52am
in all the tooing & frowing re digitrax v N.C.E. i hav'nt heard too
much about back-up service,which to me is worth 80% of the
deal.i live in Australia & depend on reliable help from the U.S.
producers. In the past I have had to contact both companies re
advice,problems& malfuntioning items N.C.E. have not
responded to faxes & numerous e/mails over several months D/
trax on the other hand have exelled in after sales service, even
even replacing my "Empire Builder" which I was having a small
problem with, with a "Chief"at no extra charge (worth over $100
extra,so I know where my loyalty lies .Cheers from down under.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE products
Posted by Glenn on October 24, 2001, 10:20pm
I must add my own kudos to Digitrax. Bought my Empire
Builder a couple of years back from Tony, and there was a small
problem with the DT-100 throttle. Digitrax, without waiting to
receive the problem throttle, sent me a brand new DT-100IR and
politely requested I send back the defect throttle at my convenience.
Super guys there. No problems since, and now that I'm
about ready to begin my new layout I'm looking forward to
getting a DT-400 radio throttle. Color me happy with Digitrax!
Dcc novice mistake
Posted by Bill on October 19, 2001, 11:53am
I bought the Atlas Commander from Train W. It didn't work, no tech
support from Train W. and atlas must not return calls. I should have
paid a couple of dollars more and bought from Tony's or Eberle's,
they both tried to help me. Bill
Lenz Decoders
Posted by Allen on October 16, 2001, 10:38pm
I've been using mostly Lenz 077XF and Digitrax DZ121 decoders
in my N locos. Lately a number of the 077 decoders have started to
have the light functions quit working and one decoder just died. The
DZ121 decoders are fine. Lenz replaced them but one new one
didn't work either, it got replaced too. The warranty was good but I
don't want to have to keep putting new ones in. Is anyone else
having this same problem or is it only me? Allen
Re: Lenz Decoders
Posted by Bill Smith on October 24, 2001, 06:45am
I have used many of the Lenz decoders however ensure that you
do not overload the decoder when it comes to the current rating.
Include what lights you may have as well. I had a similar
incident because the motor was taking nearly up to one amp and
that is too high for this Lenz. The Digitrax will take a higher
current.
Function only decoders
Posted by GeepM on October 15, 2001, 01:01pm
Hello all,
I am still converting to DCC, and I relize this topic has already been
asked. I am wanting to know how to set up a decoder for a Cab Car,
so it will respond (Consist) to the locomotive pulling it. For
instance, with the locomotive in reverse the cab car's headlight
would come on, or vis-versa with the locomotive in pull mode, the
marker lights would come on. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
GeepM.
(Digitrax, Soundtraxx user)
Re: Function only decoders
Posted by willy on October 15, 2001, 11:02pm
not sure what you mean by a 'cab car.,but i have several sound
units in box cars & dummy B units & i generally just give them
the same address as the loco, i also use D/trax(chief)& have a
short section on my mainline wired for programing(2/way
switch)you may have to re-map some of the functions so one
button only operates the desired output but i have found using
the same address often more convenient sometimes than
'consisting'cheers from Australia
Re: Function only decoders
Posted by Mark E. on October 16, 2001, 02:47pm
Sounds like you are implementing push-pull commuter service
on your layout. There are some companies, like Richmond
Controls, that produce DCC light boards, but it may take some
doing to figure out how to turn you cab light on and you
forward loco light off just by pressing the direction button on
your throttle. I would seriously think about getting as cheap
decoder (a Lenz LX103 or a Digitrax DH-121, for example) for
your cab car and hooking the reverse light lead to you cab
headlights and leaving the motor leads unconnected. If you
program this decoder to respond to the same address as the
decoder in your loco, then when you reverse direction, you loco
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74
headlight would go off and your cab headlight would come on.
Good luck
More: Function only decoders
Posted by Mark E. on October 16, 2001, 03:27pm
More ideas: You could use the additional leads to put lighting in
your cab car, as long as you stay below the current limitation.
You could also program your loco taillight not to come on, or
you could use the tailight function lead to power red end-of-train
marker lights on the front of the loco. These would switch on
automatically when the train is reversed (MBTA commuter trains
do this). If you spend a little more on the decoder for the cab,
you can hook up flashing ditch lights that onl come on when the
direction is reversed (the front ditch lights only come when
moving forward). Lots of things that you can do! Key is - both
decoders on the same address.
Re: Function only decoders
Posted by Paul on October 16, 2001, 08:50pm
GeepM, The easiest way is to use a three function decoder and
use the third function to turn on the light using the blue common
and third function leed to operate the light independantly. Trying
do do it any other way will drive you nuts.
NCE radio conversion
Posted by stan on October 06, 2001, 12:25pm
Does anyone know if the nce radio conversion is a figment of my
imagination or is it going to be available in this century????
Re: NCE radio conversion
Posted by Norm. on October 06, 2001, 10:37pm
Stan, in the Nov.2001 Model Railroader magazine, check out the
'DCC buyer's guide' article beginning on page 96. The printed
word says it's coming "shortly". NCE's web site has not updated
since sept.5th. I am also eagerly awaiting the release and I don't
have a century left ahead of me. Norm.
Re: Re: NCE radio conversion
Posted by stan on October 08, 2001, 01:16pm
Norm, thanks for the reply. I decided to put the radio conversion
on order with the two places I thought had the best chance of
getting it for me and said to call when they had them. I will see
what happens.
Re: Re: Re: NCE radio conversion
Posted by willy on October 15, 2001, 11:24pm
do yourselvs a favor & change over to Digitrax, you could have
had radio years ago plus a company that stands by their
stuff.cheers from down under.
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE radio conversion
Posted by ZIGGIE on October 16, 2001, 01:12pm
Willy, after my unfortunate experience with the NCE silent
decoders and the poor, or should I say no help from them, I was
also thinking about the radio system. I think I will take your
advise and look into Digitrax before I spend any more dollars
and can't even get a return phone call from the company.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE radio conversion
Posted by willy on October 18, 2001, 07:45am
Hi Ziggie,Amen to all you say,I am still waiting for a response
from N.C.E. re decoder problems,it's gotten to where I don't care
if they replace them or not there are lots of other good brands out
there' so stuff em. all the best from down under.
Stweart VO1000 decoder
Posted by Dave Husman on September 14, 2001, 05:50pm
The recommended decoder for the VO1000 is a KRS or something
close to that. I don't see it in the TTX product listing for TTX pr
NCE products.
Is it available? My third trick switch engine is sittin on spot.
Dave H.
non sound decoder for ho bachmann shay
Posted by David Blackburn on August 30, 2001, 11:39am
I am looking for an affordable (25 dollar range) decoder for the ho
bachmann shay. Any suggestions would be appreciated
Re: non sound decoder for ho bachmann shay
Posted by willy on September 02, 2001, 07:12pm
the "Train control Systems"TCS-7 or its replacement TH120DP
is what i have in all my Bachman stem locos including my Shay.
It fits several other locos as well,including newer Kato & some
Stewart & Proto 2000.It sells for around $25,is compact& even
has special lighting effects.I think they also have a newer one ,
with an extra function or two,they also give good after sales
service,not always the case with some other companies. cheers
from Australia
Spectrum Passenger cars
Posted by Phil Adams on August 30, 2001, 09:14am
Has anyone any experience with the Kadee 454 adapter and number
36 couplers. According the the Kadee website, www.kadee.com,
these are the recommended items to replace the standard couplers on
the Spectrum Passengers cars on tight radius curves. I'm looking for
info on issues installing the adapters and couplers and any other
experience on making these cars work better. I'm not particularly
pleased with this purchase. any suggestions?
Speaker Polarity
Posted by Jim H. on August 30, 2001, 08:35am
I haven't been able to determine the + and - terminals on the TTX
Oval 0.8" x 1.6" speaker for a Sountraxx installation. Does anyone
know? Or does it not really matter?
Re: Speaker Polarity
Posted by DonV on August 30, 2001, 01:12pm
If you are using only one speaker, the polarity mark doesn't
matter. If you are using two or more speakers, the polarity marks
can help you determing how to wire them so that all speaker
diaphrams move air in the same direction at the same time.
DonV
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

DH-121 light problem
Posted by joe binish on August 29, 2001, 09:52am
Good morning all. I had an interesting one yesterday. A while back I
hardwired a DH-121 into a Stewert VO-1000, including 16v
Miniatronics bulbs. The lights worked fine the first time I used the
switcher, but not yesterday. Trading decoders, it turns out that the
decoder lighting functions are not working on the decoder. Haven't
tried making sure the -121 is still on 128 speed steps, but has
anyone else had this happen?
Re: DH-121 light problem
Posted by BOB H on August 30, 2001, 10:02am
Sounds like the functions burned out from the cold bulb inrush
current. You will need to install a 10 to 100 ohm resistor in
series with the bulbs. The cold bulb current is much greater than
the the hot bulb resistance.
DS54 & CD unit
Posted by Malcolm Foster on August 17, 2001, 10:14am
G-Day All
Just installed my first DS54, but it doesn't seem to have enough zap
to move my Peco switch machines. I have a Capacitor Discharge
unit I used before installing the DS54's, how do I wire this up to be
used by the DS54? The DS54 is set up as per factory default.
Thanks
Mal Foster
Re: DS54 & CD unit
Posted by Dale Gloer on August 18, 2001, 08:46pm
The first thing is - Did you provide an external power supply for
the DS54? It is required for solenoid switch machines like the
Peco. The DS54 has built in CD supply but it needs the external
power.
Dale.
Re: DS54 & CD unit
Posted by Dale Gloer on August 18, 2001, 09:00pm
Because of the way the circuit of the DS54 is designed it is
almost certain that whatever CD unit you have is incompatible
with the DS54.
However, I just discovered this link that has a ciuit design that is
for a DS54 specific CD unit.
If you really need an external CD, then this is the way to go.
Here's the link:
http://perso.club-internet.fr/simonet/Home_us.htm
Dale.
Re: DS54 & CD unit
Posted by Malcolm Foster on August 19, 2001, 07:52am
Thanks Dale, checked out the site you suggested, looks
promising.
Thanks once again
Regards
Mal
Lights
Posted by Steven Low on August 10, 2001, 11:55am
I'm kitbashing Hustle Muscle. (SD45) Have installed a Digitrax
decoder. This locomotive has dual headlights and taillights that will
accomodate the smallest 1.5 volt Miniatronic bulbs. How should I
wire them? Should the headlights be in parallel or series and what
resistor should I use? Should it be wired in parallel or series? How
about the taillights? Is there a working beacon light available? How
should it be wired? Thanks
Re: Lights
Posted by Dale Gloer on August 13, 2001, 07:37am
You have choices.
You could wire the 2 lights (head or tail) in parallel. If you do
then use a separate resistor for each bulb. If you don't use a
separate resistor, then when one bulb fails the voltage for the
other will be too high and the other bulb will fail immediately.
You could wire the bulbs in series but the problem with this is
that if one bulb fails you have no light wherease in parallel, if
one fails the other continues to work.
Don't have an answer for your beacon question.
Dale
Re: Re: Lights
Posted by Steven Low on August 18, 2001, 08:31am
Thank you so much. Do you have any suggestions regarding the
rating of the resistors? Thanks
Re: Re: Re: Lights
Posted by Dale Gloer on August 18, 2001, 08:44pm
Here is a link to a page that explains what you need.
http://home.neo.rr.com/mrwithdcc/
Good luck. Dale.
N.C.E. Service????
Posted by Willy on August 06, 2001, 10:38pm
I have had trouble with 3 nce decoders in the past 12 months. I have
faxed & e-mailed them but am unable to get any reply,do they have
any such thing as after sales service, has anyone else had similar
lack of interest?I will stick with Digitrax from now on.
Re: N.C.E. Service????
Posted by Bob Miller on August 08, 2001, 07:22pm
Don't know what to tell you. I am an NCE user and have had no
problem contacting them when needed. They are a little slow
answering E mail depending on time of year. I have always had
good luck with telephone.
Re: Re: N.C.E. Service????
Posted by Willy on August 08, 2001, 11:24pm
Thanks 4 your reply bob. telephone is not always convenient
from here (australia)time difference etc.
Re: N.C.E. Service????
Posted by Mike on August 09, 2001, 08:22am
Try joining this list http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NCE-DCC
,Jim Scorse(owner of NCE) sometimes monitors this list) plus
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76
there are many others who may be able to help. Leave a detailed
message, someone else may have already experienced the same
problem and you may find your answer already posted. Very
helpful & knowledgible group
Re: N.C.E. Service????
Posted by John Wolfskill on September 01, 2001, 08:19pm
Just my two cents worth on this topic, for what it's worth. I
recently had a pair of NCE decoders fry a few hours after
installing them. Tony (here at ttx) was very helpful in resolving
the matter. I mailed the decoders to NCE along with Tony's
response to my email. The company replaced the decoders gratis
within 6 days. The new ones work fine, and I am a happy
camper. I guess you can't really ask for a much better response
than that.
Re: Re: N.C.E. Service????
Posted by willy on September 02, 2001, 06:53pm
thanks to those who have replied. however i still can.t get any
response from N.C.E. i have had excellant service from Digitrax
&T.C.S.re. failed parts,but lack of interest from N.C.E. needless
to say i don't buy N.C.E. stuff any more, & couldn,trecomend
them... cheers from Australia.
Re: N.C.E. Service????
Posted by john on September 26, 2001, 12:43am
have used nce from time of decoder kits. never a problem with
either decoders or service. probles were immediatly looked after
Re: Re: N.C.E. Service????
Posted by tim on September 26, 2001, 09:37pm
Just posted a ??? to nce yesterday via e-mail. Received a
response today. I have had problems in past with decoders with
timely and satisfactory resolutions. Nce is in the middle of
moving (new building). Willy, maybe you just slipped through
the cracks in the chaos of moving.
Tim
Anyone here? Hello?
Posted by Ski on July 27, 2001, 01:53pm
See my question below
Re: Anyone here? Hello?
Posted by ncng on July 27, 2001, 03:33pm
Yes, but I already gave you an answer on Train Board. Have
you checked out Soundtraxx's website yet? If you look at it you
will see that a speaker is on the board. To answer the rest of your
question either call/email Tony or call/email Soundtraxx. That is
the best I can do.
Re: Re: Anyone here? Hello?
Posted by Ski on July 27, 2001, 07:24pm
Thanks for replying both places!
Soundtraxx website says it includes a speaker...it does not say if
it is onboard or needs to be installed off board. I did see that it is
NOT really "plug and play" but snip wires, remove the old
board, rewire the new one. As an electronics dullard, I was really
hoping that I could just use the eight pin plug on the Kato circuit
board.
Thanks again.
Re: Re: Re: Anyone here? Hello?
Posted by ncng on July 28, 2001, 10:42am
I went back to the Soundtraxx website and selected the DSD-
KT100LC at http://www.soundtraxx.com/docs/Katodsht.pdf.
The PDF file (Adobe Acrobat) says that the speaker is separate
and that it can be placed in the cab or under the fans. There is
even a picture of the decoder. You will find that most of the
"Plug-n-Play" decoders don't really plug and play. The decoders
that replace an existing light board such as this decoder, require
you to remove the existing board, solder leads from the trucks to
the board, solder leads to the motor, and solder leads to the
lights. What makes them plug and play in this case is you don't
have to figure out where the decoder will go, it goes where the
light board used to be. Another thing, you will also need to
install resistors between the board lights even if you don't
change the bulbs. This will prevent you from blowing the
function output.
Re: Re: Re: Anyone here? Hello?
Posted by ncng on July 28, 2001, 10:42am
I went back to the Soundtraxx website and selected the DSD-
KT100LC at http://www.soundtraxx.com/docs/Katodsht.pdf.
The PDF file (Adobe Acrobat) says that the speaker is separate
and that it can be placed in the cab or under the fans. There is
even a picture of the decoder. You will find that most of the
"Plug-n-Play" decoders don't really plug and play. The decoders
that replace an existing light board such as this decoder, require
you to remove the existing board, solder leads from the trucks to
the board, solder leads to the motor, and solder leads to the
lights. What makes them plug and play in this case is you don't
have to figure out where the decoder will go, it goes where the
light board used to be. Another thing, you will also need to
install resistors between the board lights even if you don't
change the bulbs. This will prevent you from blowing the
function output.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Anyone here? Hello?
Posted by Ski on July 28, 2001, 01:27pm
Thanks again!
Is there a good reference for us DCC dummies? You are
frightening me with this "resistor" talk! Does the DCC signal
cause some sort of problem with the Kato lights? I might just
forgo the Soundtraxx and go with the true plug and play decoder
I found here on the TTX website, the RS-2 I believe.
I truly appreciate your assistance!
Ski
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Anyone here? Hello?
Posted by ncng on July 29, 2001, 11:07am
Check out www.wiringfordcc.com. You also might want to join
one of the DCC forums on groups.yahoo.com. I use Digitrax
and that egroup has about 2,000 members. There is a lot of
experience there and just about everyone is more than willing to
help new people.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

The problem with lights is that light bulbs, does not apply to
LEDs, take a great in rush of power when you first turn them
on. As they get hotter they don't draw as much power. The
output of the functions on decoders is limited to less than 100
milliohms in most cases. When you first turn a light bulb on it
can briefly exceed the limit of decoder. If you are using 12-14v
bulbs a very small resistor 22-30 ohms will protect the decoder.
If you are using 5v, 3v, or 1.5v bulbs or LEDs you will need to
put in a higher ohm resister in series to drop the amount of
power going to the bulb/LED.
If you have any questions you can e-mail me directly at
ncng@trainorders.com.
Kato Dash 9/Soundtraxx
Posted by Ski on July 24, 2001, 01:00pm
Hello!
I am interested in acquiring the Soundtraxx GE sound decoder for
my 2 HO Kato Dash 9s, but have a few questions.
1. Does the Soundtraxx decoder just plug into the eight pin socket
on the Kato circuit board or do you have to snip wires and replace
the original board.
2. Does a speaker come with the decoder? Is it installed on the
decoder, or do I have to mount it myself somewhere in the loco.
3. I have an Atlasmaster DCC system. Can I even use the
soundtraxx decoder with it.
Thanks
Ski
Re: Kato Dash 9/Soundtraxx
Posted by Michael on August 06, 2001, 12:37pm
1 The KT100LC is a replace the factory PCB type decoder, so
requires you to remove the wires from the factory board, remove
the board, replace with decoder and reattched wires to decoder.
2 No, the speaker does not come with it (some LC's do have a
speaker but no the KT) and you have find a place to mount the
speaker and a speaker box (to get the best sound).
3 Yes the Atlas system will work with a Soundtraxx decoder but
it only has F0 and F1 function controls, the Soundtraxx decoder
can use many funcions. You would have choose which two you
want, ie headlight and horn and remap them to F0 and F1. The
new Atlas HandCommand throttle will allow you to use 5
functions (F0-F4) so you could use more features of the sound
decoder.
DS44 Quad Stationary Decoder
Posted by Stan George on July 24, 2001, 11:34am
Does anyone have any info on the DS44? I emailed Digitrax and
thay said "Information will be forthcoming in about a week." That
was three weeks ago and still nothing on their site. How does it
compair to the EasyDCC AS4?
Re: DS44 Quad Stationary Decoder
Posted by ncng on July 27, 2001, 03:36pm
You might want to post this to the Digitrax users group at
groups.yahoo.com. From what I can gather from that site, this is
a very simplified decoder. It doesn't have any connection to
Loconet so you get no feedback (Assuming you have Digitrax).
The unit is powered directly from track power. You can only
activate a turnout through a hand controller or a computer
running DCC software such as Railroad & Co or Winlock.
There are no provisions for panel control (i.e. toggle switch/
pushbutton).
Re: DS44 Quad Stationary Decoder
Posted by Mark E. on July 27, 2001, 03:37pm
The only place that I have even found the DS-44 mentioned is
on this website. Like you, I am eagerly awaiting informtion. I
emailed TTX, but their response was that all that they have has
been posted. I guess that we have to wait.
Re: Re: DS44 Quad Stationary Decoder
Posted by Stan George on July 27, 2001, 03:45pm
Thanks for the response. The info you provided was exactly
what I was looking for. It sounds like the EasyDCC AS4
decoders are a better choice.
Thanks again.
Stan
Re: DS44 Quad Stationary Decoder
Posted by Mark E. on July 27, 2001, 03:52pm
I agree. I just ordered an AD4hk from CVP yesterday
re:dcc of athearn sd70
Posted by richard on July 13, 2001, 02:07pm
Suggest you look at the loy's toys site at www.loystoys.com At the
bottom of the home page it has a link to decoder installation. This is
a wealth of info that should help with the first time install. I don't
remember any specific info on ditch lights but it should help to clear
up a lot of the other basic stuff like isolating the motor, etc.
DCC wiring of Athearn SD70I?
Posted by Greg Gee on July 12, 2001, 09:02pm
I was wondering if someone could provide a good wiring diagram
or descriptive message that shows how to wire an Athearn SD70I
for DCC. I have either a Digitrax DH142 or NCE D15SR. I think
either would work.
This is my first loco that I will be putting DCC into and want a
good reference point when I do the rest. I thought this would be a
good loco to try since it would need ditch lights to work as well.
Thanks,
Greg
sound4 Stewart VO1000&Atlas U25B
Posted by Graeme Rundle. on July 12, 2001, 06:31am
Ihave just ordered these 2 locos hav'nt seen inside them.Firstly
which decoders will they take,I use either D/trax.T.C.S.or Lenz.(not
N.C.E.)I may fit sound if it is not too much trouble ,any advice
please?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 77

Atlas motors
Posted by Disp 33 on July 11, 2001, 12:40pm
Hello, I just stumbled across this BB and thought I'd ask if anyone
is having problems with Atlas motors. I just purchased two HO
Atlas Classic RS 1 locos and installed decoders in each. The motors
becom very hot and thence the decoders shut down. I pulled the
motors and ran them on the bench without flywheels on DC (11.5
volts) and both motors became too hot to touch. The bearings are
fine and the shafts turn freely. I noticed that the Atlas parts catalog
does not list replacement motors for these units.
powered frogs
Posted by pico on July 10, 2001, 10:38pm
I'm in the process of building a layout that will eventually be DCC.
Must I power the frogs to have reliable service? I'm using Atlas
super switches. If I must does anyone have a good way of soldering
to the frogs and what gauge wire should I use? Thanks
78
Re: powered frogs
Posted by Bill Gaver on July 12, 2001, 07:25am
See www.wiringfordcc.com for an
indepth response and info re: your
question.
Re: powered frogs
Posted by DonV on July 14, 2001, 08:38am
No, you don't have to power the frogs just because you are/will
be using DCC. You power the frogs so that locos with wheel
pick-up problems can get through the switch at low speeds
without stalling.
But do read Wiring-4-DCC tips. I've added bonding wires from
stock to wing & closing rails on all my Atlas switches to remedy
poor electrical contacts buried in the plastic. This particularly
required if you use insulated rail joiners so that there is no
electrical fed from the frog end of the switch.
DonV
E.M.D. Generations. phases
Posted by Graeme Rundle on July 07, 2001, 05:59am
i plan on fitting sound to some of my diesels.can someone tell me
which locos( E.M.D).are considered to be the end of the so called
first generation & which make up the start of the second generation
likewise the third.( cheers from Australia).
Re: E.M.D. Generations. phases
Posted by Larry Mowery on July 08, 2001, 11:32pm
If my understanding is correct, the GP-20 is the first of the 2nd
generation EMD's. I believe they were the first production units
fitted with turbochargers which made them a "2nd generation".
Proto 1000 / DCC
Posted by John on July 04, 2001, 01:46pm
Proto 1000 F3: I have read that LL made a mess with the light board
on this one. Also that the constant lighting circuit causes the engine
to run at a different speed when going fwd vs. going backward. My
question is: It sounds like I should just pull out the old board and
replace it. YES? Any suggestions on which NCE decoder would
work the best. I already have a D13SR I was thinking of using.
Thanks, John
Re: Proto 1000 / DCC
Posted by joe binish on July 05, 2001, 03:33pm
As I have ranted in the past, decoders should be hardwired in!
At least if you can wire a layout for DCC, you can hardwire the
decoders. The D13SR will work great in the P1K drive. Don't
burn your fingers on the iron!!
Re: Proto 1000 / DCC
Posted by DonV on July 05, 2001, 05:29pm
A D13SR will work great!
I cut the PCB traces (3) places where indicated, changed the
headlamp to a direct wired 14V, 30 ma, and soldered decoder
wires to the DCC 'plug' holes.
The decoder fits nicely in the weight cavity over the rear truck
gears.
While you have it apart, check the worm gears for end play. Add
shim washers to take up excessive movement space. This
reduces gear buzzing when stopping or going down hill.
DonV
Re: Re: Proto 1000 / DCC
Posted by John on July 06, 2001, 10:04am
Don and Joe,
Thanks for your help. I'll have to check out the worm gears now
that I have some grades on the layout!
John
Soundtraxx DSD-100LC Hummmmmm
Posted by BSME on June 16, 2001, 11:24pm
We have installed a DSD-100LC in an IHC Mountain. We are
getting sound but it is accompanied by a HUM and the chuff
sounds scratchy. We are using an elliptical speaker and it sounds
fine when hooked up to a different DSD-100LC.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Mu operations?
Posted by Richard on June 10, 2001, 11:33am
I have a set if P2K FA-FB (both powered) units with Train Control
Systems plug/n/play decoders installed. I'm finding that after a 10-
15 minutes of running together the programmed address is lost in
the A unit. Reprogramming returns it to normal ops. The two units
are not exactly matched in that the A will gain about a foot on the B
when they are run over a thirty foot long length with neither pulling
a load. Do I need to have them matched even better too avoid
heating in the A unit or is it more likely that there is a problem with
the decoder? I have not changed any of the cvs at this time. If I need
a closer match, how does one do this? Thanks
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Kato N scale SD80/90 decoders?
Posted by Harold Hodnett on June 05, 2001, 04:22pm
What decoder(s) will be plug 'n play for the new Kato N scale
SD80/90 MAC's? I e-mailed Digitrax and they said their new
decoder should be hitting the stores at the same time the locos are
and to check their site for an announcement, however, the locos are
in and there was nothing on the site when I checked a few minutes
ago. Any ideas???
Lenz CV Defaults
Posted by BSME on June 02, 2001, 10:02pm
How do we reset all of the CV's of a Lenz decoder back to their
default values by using the Digitrax Chief System? Thanks for you
help.
BSME
Re: Lenz CV Defaults
Posted by Disp 33 on July 11, 2001, 01:11pm
The CV number for Lenz default is on the instruction/data sheet,
I'm at work so I can't look it up for you. Place the loco on the
program track SHUT OFF THE HEADLIGHTS and just
program the CV value into the loco. It works for me. After you
program it ask it what the CV value is and it will report back, IF
THE HEADLIGHTS ARE TURNED OFF. It seems that with
Lenz decoders the Digitrax programing mode is very sensitive to
voltage, re TURN OFF THE HEADLIGHTS. I learned this on
the Digitrax Yahoo Group BB. Carl S.
Re: Re: Lenz CV Defaults
Posted by EB on July 12, 2001, 12:10pm
I saw your advice about the Lights being OFF. I believe that in
general this can apply to ALL decoders whenever you are
programing them. All LOADS, ie headlights, ditchlights,
beacons, etc., should be OFF. In particular when you are trying
to verify the CV value where a load can be sensed by the
command station as a "yes".
Decoder for Atlas Alco S-1
Posted by Bob L on June 01, 2001, 08:29pm
Has anyone installed a decoder in an S-1. It looks like the top
weight could come out and a decoder put on top of the motor.
What about isolating the motor from the frame, probably a must!
Ideas?
Bob
Re: Decoder for Atlas Alco S-1
Posted by DB on June 02, 2001, 10:44am
I installed a NCE decoder in mine. I don't remember the number
but it was the cheapest HO decoder they offered. It was a perfect
fit width wise. I put it at the top front of the shell. I did have to
remove part of the weight from the frame below it but I haven't
had any pulling problems.
As far a isolating the motor, I found it didn't need isolating.
Check yours first before you install but that was my experience.
Decoder for Atlas Alco S-1
Posted by joe binish on June 02, 2001, 05:42pm
I did one last fall as a clinic with a DN-83/93, recently a
Walthers H-10-44 with a DH-121. The later required removing
part of the weight. The motors I worked with were isolated, the
poles are on the top & bottom of the motor, a couple of circles of
brass. Remove (or cut the traces on) the circuit board and wire
up your bulbs for lighting.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 79
PM4
Posted by Richard Bettig on May 31, 2001, 01:00pm
I have installed a PM4, and when
a F7 goes out of the returm loop, all is weel, however when the
engine returns, it enters in the loop, then stops briefly before
continuing. What did I do wrong?
or what's the cause?
Re: PM4
Posted by DonV on June 01, 2001, 10:02am
I'd like to help you, but What is a PM4?
When asking a question like this specify a generic product/
function name, brand, & model so others know what you are
talking about.
DonV
Re: PM4
Posted by Ed McCamey on June 01, 2001, 10:44am
Richard,
The PM4 is programable to handle many of the features and
make adjustments to the reverser actions. See:
http://www.ttx-dcc.com/technews/dcc_autoreversers.htm on tests
and comparisons.
Re: PM4
Posted by Don on June 11, 2001, 12:43pm
My understanding is that when you use one of the 4 power
managment sections of the PM4 to control a reversing loop it
works by detecting the short circut before the booster does and
switches the polarity of the track. From your description it
almost sounds like the booster is seeing the short and doing a
reset, thus the short pause. Have you noticed if the status lights
are changing on the command station/booster or are you hearing
any beeps? Also, is it only this locomotive that does this or do all
your loco's do it? One other thing, the PM4 is factory set for 3
amps. This can be changed on the board. Is it possible that the
loco is drawing down more than 3 amps when it shorts across
the gap? This would cause the booster to shut down and reset.
And are your gaps set directly across from each other so that
both wheels hit them at the same time? Hope these suggestions
help. Don
Re: PM4
Posted by Gavin W on June 13, 2001, 08:04pm
Richard
I have experienced exactly the same issue. I contacted Digitrax
and they worked on the issue with no success (they did commit
to continue to work on this).

80
I'm not sure it is completely a PM4 issue, as I've read about
issues with Digitrax plug-and-play decoders and reversing
loops.
I have minimized the issue by removing any acceleration/
deceleration factors on the decoders.
I would encourage you to contact digitrax -- the more we do this,
the more we may be able to generate a solution. Also, is it only
on one engine you see this? Is it always in one direction? If you
can share any more information, we may be able to build up a
pattern.....
Re: Re: PM4
Posted by Jeff on June 18, 2001, 01:04am
Did you wire it right? A silly question I know but your PM4 is
good for 3 not 4 reverse loops. The 4th circuit must be set up for
short circuit protection in order for the whole thing to work.
The description of your problem makes it sound like you don't
have a reversing circuit at all. The engine will roll past one set of
gaps with no problem because, well, there isn't one (short
circuit). When it gets to the other side either the booster is
shutting down or the PM4 is doing it's job by shutting down the
district (with a diesel, it sounds like the booster).
Anyway, if you haven't already, check and recheck the wiring on
that pm4 plug. That would be the first place I would look. If you
need further help, you can contact me at jsiladi@home.com.
Jeff
Roco Crane
Posted by Jack C on May 31, 2001, 01:10am
How do I reprpgrem the decoder in my Roco crane. All it does in
any mod. is swing left and right.
Re: Roco Crane
Posted by Michael Mosher on June 01, 2001, 05:18pm
See:
http://www.ttx-dcc.com/technews/rocolenzcrane.htm
to see how to control your crane, it used functions to modify
which motion the speed control works with.
DH121 Diagnosis?
Posted by BSME on May 25, 2001, 09:30am
We have recently installed a DH121 in an old Mantua Heavy
Mikado with an open frame motor. Sometimes this engine briefly
runs well, and then stops and the headlight starts to blink at a rate of
about twice per second. What is this decoder telling us? Thanks.
Re: DH121 Diagnosis?
Posted by joe binish on May 25, 2001, 02:40pm
The blinking is a signal from the decoder that it is shorting. You
may want to go to a decoder with a heavier stall rating (nothing
to do with the short).
Re: DH121 Diagnosis?
Posted by Bernhard on June 03, 2001, 12:02pm
The decoder is shutting down due to heavy current draw. If the
engine runs fine and the rods are not binding you may have to
go to a decoder which will hand 2 amps or more. My alternative
would be to replace the motor. NWSL has a new series of
motors which run beautifully and have a very low current draw.
And they have excellent low speed performance. Its a bit more
work but well worth the effort in my books.
Radio Throttles
Posted by Dave Husman on May 25, 2001, 12:06am
Any word on the progress of the radio throttles?
TCS TH141 dcoder question
Posted by Chuck Shaffer on May 19, 2001, 04:57pm
Hi all,
I have a TH141 decoder. It works fine using a long address, say,
5000. But when I put it into a consist it is not recognized. I think the
problem may be the CV's. Do any of you know the CV values for
this decoder using a long address and part of a consist. In particular
CV29 and maybe CV61?
Thanks,
Chuck
Re: TCS TH141 dcoder question
Posted by Bob Miller on May 19, 2001, 11:38pm
Can't answer your CV question per se, but I can tell you I have
installed several of the TCS decoders in Atlas U23Bs with long
addresses and they consist just fine. I am using the NCE
ProCab.
Bob Miller
Re: TCS TH141 dcoder question
Posted by tim on May 21, 2001, 09:49pm
Chuck,
I believe CV-61 is a bunny trail, don't go there. CV-29 bit 5, and
CV-19 is where to look. CV-19 is the consist address. That
should be the address of your consist (1-127). CV-29 bit 5
controls which address (long or short) the locomotive will
respond to. It should be "1". You didn't mention which system
you are using. The NCE system does all that for you when you
add the locomotive to a consist.
Good Luck, Tim
Re: TCS TH141 dcoder question
Posted by Steve Mudd on June 14, 2001, 06:46pm
Early software versions of TH141 has some difficulty with
advance consisting using 4 digit address. You may have one of
the early ones. Contact John Forsyth at TCS for remedy. This
was corrected in later revision. Contact TCS at tcs@ot.com.
P2K E6
Posted by tomk_fl on May 08, 2001, 10:34pm
Hi,
has anybody done a decoder install in the E6..without removing the
factory board?
Looking for what decoder was used and if bulbs and mars light
function was preserved.
Tom
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

TCS decoders
Posted by joe binish on May 07, 2001, 09:28am
has anyone used any of the TCS decoders? They were suppsed to
be the next best thing. Thanks
Re: TCS decoders
Posted by Richard on May 07, 2001, 10:48am
I have used several of the TCS decoders that are made to fit the
Proto2000 GP7. I found them to be an easy install as they have
the plug and play system which you unplug the existing board
and place the new board on the pins. The only wiring to do is the
lights. The existing lights need to be changed to a 14-16 volt
bulb. The wiring is only a matter of pulling the old out of holes
in the board and placing the new in their place. Very simple and
they have all the features that I use.
Re: TCS decoders
Posted by Dale Gloer on May 08, 2001, 07:55am
I have a TH141. I plugged it in inplace of a Digitrax DH140 in a
steam engine. I can get the same rule 17 lighting effects and a
similar flickering firebox light on both. The TH141 automatically
dims the headlight that is in the direction of travel when the
throttle is set to zero, the DH140 does not. I presently have it in
a Bachmann Shay.
The only thing I found is that I cannot program it or read it back
using my PR1 programmer. Works OK on my Chief though.
Dale Gloer
Re: Re: TCS decoders
Posted by tim on May 08, 2001, 10:58pm
I've put some in Athearn GP-9s, spectrum GP-30 and Sperry
Rail Car. Works well on NCE. However, for same cost (or close
to it) you can get new NCE "SR" decoders with same function
outputs (except firebox flicker)and runs quieter. Your choice,
your hobby. TTX has both.
Tim
Re: Re: Re: TCS decoders
Posted by Bob Miller on May 09, 2001, 12:48am
Have used several in Atlas U23B units, works like a champ.
Haven't seen a new NCE decoder ( I use NCE system) but this
TCS has such a good (small) shape to it, it will fit about
anyplace.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: TCS decoders
Posted by tim on May 09, 2001, 11:10pm
New NCE decoder compareable to TCS is: D15SR. NCE old
D102 (US & EU) is D13SR. NCE old DA102 (US & EU) is
DA-SR. Ckeck them out on TTX prouduct list or NCE website
www.ncedcc.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: TCS decoders
Posted by Scott on May 13, 2001, 02:43pm
I installed one in a Spectrum K4. It works fantastic.
NCE decoders
Posted by tim on April 25, 2001, 08:48pm
I'm looking for recomendations on what NCE decoder to use
in:P2K PA's, Athearn 2-8-2, Spectrum 44 ton, P2K GP18, and
Walthers H10/12-44. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Tim
Value and Sell Trains
Posted by rei on April 24, 2001, 03:39pm
AntiqueCast, the web's most popular collector's price guide, now
has tools that make selling at online auctions a snap! http://
www.antiquecast.com
DSD LL100LC
Posted by Mark on April 19, 2001, 05:19pm
What speaker would be appropriate to use for the new DSD
LL100LC going into a P2K SD-60?
Re: DSD LL100LC
Posted by Paul Federiconi on May 08, 2001, 04:05pm
Speaker for the P2K SD60, try the 20mm X 40mm speaker that
is sold here at Tony's. I use it on my Atlas GP40 and works
great. You might have to file the weight on the SD60 to make it
fit.
Paul
Re: Re: DSD LL100LC
Posted by EMD on May 23, 2001, 05:26pm
Paul;
You mentioned you are using the soundtrax sound unit in the
Atlas GP40, with the new oval speaker, what did you do for the
lights? Replace with 12v/14v, or did you use a resistor - value?
I'm getting ready to install and would appreciate any info.
thanks
emd
Re: Re: Re: DSD LL100LC
Posted by Paul Federiconi on May 29, 2001, 11:23pm
EMD,
I used a 390 Ohm resistor and two 1.5 Volt bulbs. I use a #54
drill and drilled through the twin cab headlight. I then inserted
the two bulb and wired to Soundtraxx. I have found that 390
ohm resistor work great when wiring two bulbs for twin beam
headlight. Use a 470 ohm for one 1.5 volt bulb.
Paul
Re: Re: Re: Re: DSD LL100LC
Posted by EMD on May 30, 2001, 02:35pm
Thanks Paul - will give it a try.
Rivarossi U25C Decoder
Posted by TomK on April 15, 2001, 11:40am
I would like to equip a Rivarossi U25C with a decoder. Any
suggestions? It has the original motor which runs fine. I would
prefer a System One or NCE decoder.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 81

Also have 2 Alco Models (1967) era alligators. Still have open
frame motors. How would I equip these?
SW1500/sound installation
Posted by Bob Menzies on April 15, 2001, 09:33am
I'm trying to install working headlites/directional ditch lites and
soundtrax sound into a SW 1500. So far the experiment has a helix
humper motor installed for clearance. A digitrax K150 decoder
running the motor and directional ditchlites and now I'm going to
try a DSX sound only decoder in the cab. Has someone else tried
this sound installation? Thinking about going to a soundtrax plug
and play decoder and a small n scale decoder for the ditchlites.
There is .350 clearance between the motor and the shell internal
clearance if that helps anyone.
cab control
Posted by Bill on April 15, 2001, 07:17am
Need input about cab control.Best buys,best
operation,reliable.Getting back into N scale after 12 years.Don't
want to use block system. need info.KraZCoyote@aol.com
SD7 Headlights
Posted by Russ Langille on April 14, 2001, 06:51pm
I am installing a Lenz LE103XF in a 1st run proto 2000 SD7 using
a dcc plug.I've replaced the bulbs with 12volt bulbs,and could not
get the lights to work.I then wired the lights directly to one side of
the loco pickups and to one of the pc board normal light pickups
and both lights come on or go off when the light function is
activated. Any ideas or rumors on how to seperate the light
functions short of hard wiring the lights? russ
82
Re: SD7 Headlights
Posted by Russ Langille on April 14, 2001, 07:09pm
oops, typo. I'm using a le104xf decoder. russ
Re: Re: SD7 Headlights
Posted by Jacques W. Lajoie on April 17, 2001, 09:38am
Hello Russ,
I have installed the LE104FX in the very same engine and if my
memory is faithfull, you must retain the original bulbs. Check
with Tony to make sure. The same goes for the SD9 from P2K.
Also I had to file one of the truck bolster on this SD7 to provide
lateral play, so it will track well on vertical curve or uneven
tracks.
Re: SD7 Headlights
Posted by Dave C on April 17, 2001, 09:24pm
Russ, I too am having problems with the P2K SD-7 lights. They
are 3 volt lamps and therefore have a resistor in series with them.
The resistor is your problem with the 12 volt bulbs. The resistor
needs to be replaced with a jumper. In my case, I decided to
leave the 3 volt bulbs in. My problem is the the resistor gets very
hot! So hot I am afraid to put the shell on for fear of melting.
Also the light intensity changes, almost an intermittant flicker. I
will replace the bulbs with 14 volt, 30 ma bulbs and no resistor.
Will let you know what happens.
Re: Re: SD7 Headlights
Posted by Jack Shall on April 18, 2001, 11:22pm
Dave, do you happen to know the value and wattage of the
resistors used with the 3 volt bulbs?
Re: Re: Re: SD7 Headlights
Posted by Jacques W. Lajoie on April 20, 2001, 09:21am
Hollo Russ,
I have both a P2K SD7 and a P2K SD9 equiped with the LE104
decoder, these engines are MU together and I do not experience
the severe overheating Dave have. The light could be brighter
though.
I think it is worth a try to reinstall the original P2K bulbs and
take it from there.
Re: Re: Re: SD7 Headlights
Posted by Dave C on April 20, 2001, 10:39pm
The resistor measures 1500 ohms and is marked Brown, green,
black, black, space, brown, which in precision resistor code is
1500 ohms at 1%. The size says it's a 1/2 watt. This resistor
should run cold as that works out to about 7 ma at 3 volts with a
14 volt supply. That's only 0.1 watt! All I can say is that it gets
very hot. I'll get back to you after I remove the bulbs and
measure their current at 3 volts.
Re: SD7 Headlights
Posted by Joe Binish on April 23, 2001, 09:10am
In my opinion, the best way to get satisfactory performance from
decoders/lghts is to forget about the factory plugs and hardwire
the decoder in. Of course, if you are tesing to check fit, or
performance, use the 8 pin plug. If you can wire a layout, you
can wire a decoder. The several manufacturers all have a
different approach to lighting which leads to the start of this
thread. 14v bulbs aren't that expensive, and you won't need to
worry about resistors. My 2 cents.
Re: Re: SD7 Headlights
Posted by John on April 25, 2001, 10:37pm
I agree with the latest comment here. The earlier P2K models
don't have the same type of circuitry as the newer model (GP-30,
SD-60), and I recall hard wiring mine. One the newer models
listed, I've simply replaced the stock bulbs with 12v units on the
wire connectors provided.
good luck
engine to fast
Posted by tony m on April 13, 2001, 05:59pm
I HAVE A F3A ANDF3B UNIT WITH DECODERS. I USE NCE
PRO . THE ENGINE MOVES TOO FAST EVEN ON SPEED
DIAL 1. I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO REPROGRAM IT SO
I CAN RUN IT MUCH SLOWER. I ALSO BOUGHT THE
SPECTRUM SHAY AND ATLAS RS 11 AND THE RUN
BEAUTIFULLY. ANY HELP IN PLAIN ENGLISH WOULD BE
HELPFUL OTHERWISE ILL HAVE TO RETURN IT AND LET
THE PROS DO IT. THANKS
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: engine to fast
Posted by DonV on April 16, 2001, 12:26pm
The Life-Like P1K F3A & B units are geared close to prototypical
top speed. So there is plenty of torque at low speeds to
overcome starting friction. Set the start speed/voltage (CV #2) to
a 1 to prevent jack rabbit starts.
DonV
Speed Matching Locos
Posted by Greg C. Sieren on April 13, 2001, 11:06am
I have recently introduced myself to DCC, as I have installed a
Digitrax Chief II. I have been slowly converting my locomotives to
DCC, in addition to buying new loco's w/ DCC already installed.
I was wondering how one properly matches the speeds of the
locomotives for MUing.
I have noticed with my B23-7 that have factory installed decoders
that one will run faster that the other one.
I have also noticed that with my N scale SD60's I have been
converting, that for them to run at the same slow speed, one will run
at 12% full throttle and the other will run at 16% full throttle.
The big question...."How does one easily speed match his locomotives
to run at the same percentage of throttle when consisting?"
Thanks,
Greg
Re: Speed Matching Locos
Posted by DonV on April 16, 2001, 12:04pm
Unfortunately each loco manufacturer designs with different
gearing and different motors, even from model to model. So you
don't have much choice except to program the speed table of
each loco so that it runs at the same speed at each DCC speed
step. Each loco decoder brand & model will require different
speed table settings. There is no standard here, you have to
establish your own prefered table. Then test and re-program each
loco to conform. This must be a measured speed test. The easy
way is to use a small loop of track & run the test loco against a
'standard unit', re-programming on the main. Still a lot of tedius
work.
The other easy-out is to only MU same manufacturer, same
model locos, using the same decoder brand & model. These will
usually MU ok right out of the box with factory default values.
DonV
to
pr1/lenz 103 decoder
Posted by Glenn on April 06, 2001, 08:26pm
Has anyone had any experience programing the lenz 103 decoders
with the pr1. The pr1 works great on digitrax 121 &142, but I can't
get anything with the lenz. If I keep trying, I can get basic programing
using the register programer funtion.
Re: pr1/lenz 103 decoder
Posted by Leonard Stern on April 06, 2001, 09:40pm
The Lenz 103 decoder under PR1 is programmed under the
register program method on the installed programmer menu. The
Lenz 130 and HAG have a separate menu but the 103 uses only
the register menu. That is how and what I used for this type of
decoder. Regards. Leonard
DN-144K decoder
Posted by Todd on April 01, 2001, 10:09pm
I just bought 4 DN-144K decoders to put into my New kato Dash-
9's,
3 went in and programed perfectly.
the 4th one has given me problems.
I am using the pr-1 software to load the decoder I can change and
read the address on the loco and see the lights flicker when it reads
and loads but when I go to run it it won't run, no lights ,nothing. I
have reloaded the DN-144K default values and tried the :03 address
still no work.I also checked it out with the lt-1 test kit it seems to be
ok. Is it possible I got a Bad one from the Factory? Is there
somethoing else I should look for? any suggestions would be
helpful.
Thanks,TOdd
Re: DN-144K decoder
Posted by Rob on April 08, 2001, 12:38am
Todd
I have installed over a dozen DN-144k's and have had exactly
the problem you described several times. Every time if I added a
little solder to the front contacts the decoder/loco worked fine.
You need an extremely fine tipped soldering iron to not ruin the
board though. The problem is that the amount of voltage
required to program the unit is significantly less than what is
needed to run it. So you may have a good enough contact to
program but not good enough to run. Hope this helps.
Rob
Lenz Decoder Help
Posted by Jim Harr on March 23, 2001, 03:55pm
Hi all;
I recently purchased four Lenz LE103XF Decoders for installation
in an ABBA set of Athearn F-units. Here's the problem: Three of
the decoders work fine; the fourth, however, works intermittently at
times. I have checked and re-checked the install,searched forshorts,
and all seems fine. The loco acts (and sounds) like it was operating
on conventional DC pulse power. It hesitates and jerks and is not
smooth. Has anyone had a similar reaction or can anyone shed any
light on this? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in
advance;
Jim Harr
Re: Lenz Decoder Help
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on March 23, 2001, 09:11pm
Jim, I am not sure what to suggest to you, but I would start by
verifying that the fourth Athearn locomotive runs well on
conventional DC. From your description it seems to me that
something is not quite right with the locomotive. Then I would
check the decorder installation; can you read the address on the
programming track? I assume that all of your installations were
done the same way. Lastly, you might want to switch a decoder
from one of the three locomotives that operate fine to the fourth
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 83

84
locomotive. Perhaps you have already thought of these things,
and maybe you have already checked these items. If not, that
would be a good place to start. Good luck!
Ed
Re: Re: Lenz Decoder Help
Posted by Jim Harr on March 24, 2001, 09:21am
Thanks for the reply, Ed; the problem decoder programs fine. I
get a correct address reding and everything checks out OK. I,
too, thought I would swap it with one of the 'working' decoders,
and in the process I can check the unit for proper analog DC
operation. I'll let you all know the result. Jim
Re: Lenz Decoder Help
Posted by Leonard Stern on March 25, 2001, 01:34pm
I too had a problem with this type of decoder. After you check
out the suggestions given and it (the decoder) still will not
perform properly send it back to Lenz and they will replace it.
That is what I did and Lenz promtly sent a new one back to me.
Re: Re: Lenz Decoder Help
Posted by Jim Harr on March 25, 2001, 07:01pm
Hello again;
Well, I took Ed's advice, and it does seem that the problem is
with the loco itself, and not the decoder. For some reason, the
loco develops a slight hitch which I can't pin down. I swapped
decoders and the 'problem' decoder worked fine in another of the
Athearn units. I guess I will buy a new F-7 and swap the shells.
Thanks Ed, for helping to show me the forest for the trees, as it
were. Simple problem, simple solution, but I guess that's why
this message board is here!
Jim Harr
Re: Re: Re: Lenz Decoder Help
Posted by Scott on April 03, 2001, 07:34pm
Did you make sure that the wheels are super clean?
Erratic operation
Posted by Richard on March 22, 2001, 12:20pm
I was thought my DCC might be going nuts. I have been installing a
pullout staging drawer from the MR article and was running trains
onto and off the tracks on the shelf, of course at very slow speeds.
Suddenly for no reason other units on the layout would do strange
things!! I finally found that on one track of five I was getting a very
slight contact between a Kadee gladhand thru the metal frame to a
wheel rubbing. Just enough to change some bits of the digital signal
but not enough to shut it down or bring in any alarms. Adjusted the
gladhand and truck and all is well again.
CVP Supplier
Posted by DonV on March 21, 2001, 11:01am
Know of any supplier of CVP products that sell the AD4K and
AD4HK accessory decoder at a discount price?
DonV
Re: CVP Supplier
Posted by Ed McCamey on March 21, 2001, 12:02pm
Discount Model Trains in Addison, TX sotcks and sells ALL
CVP products at 5% off the CVP based price. You can find
them through dealer links under the Kalmbach web or their
number is 972-931-8135.
NCE D13SR decoder question.
Posted by Dave Husman on March 14, 2001, 11:33am
What is "EPF", as used in the description of the D13SR decoder?
How is it different from the DASR?
Thanks.
Re: NCE D13SR decoder question.
Posted by DonV on March 14, 2001, 11:44am
EPF stands for Extended Packet Format. i.e. DCC long
addresses, etc.
What is DASR?
Are you talking about an NCE brand DAxx type controller
(circuit board shape and feature/functions) w/ SR Silent Running
frequency output to the loco motor?
DonV
Re: Re: NCE D13SR decoder question.
Posted by Dave Husman on March 14, 2001, 07:06pm
Yes, both the DASR and D13SR are listed as available decoders
in the NCE product portion of TTX.
Just wondered what the difference was.
Re: Re: Re: NCE D13SR decoder question.
Posted by Tony Bolthouse on March 15, 2001, 08:18am
See http://www.ncedcc.com/ for details on the new SR series
from NCE. go to Products then Decoders. The DASR is
described as an "easy install into locos with Kato Drive" and
replacement for Digitrax DH150 and Atlas 340. D13SR is
described as HO 1.3 amp with 3 EFX outputs.
tender light
Posted by Mike Tillger on March 03, 2001, 01:44pm
Does anyone have an easy way to add backup lights to tenders? Is
their a manufactured headlight and bulb combination? Thanks in
advance
Re: tender light
Posted by David on April 14, 2001, 10:59am
I am in the process of installing lights in my steam locos. I have
drilled a small hole, just large enough for a grain of rice bulb,
and inserted the bulb in the hole. Then I coat the front of the
lense with Microscale Krystal Klear. It really looks great. Just
like there is a bulb inside the lamp on the real thing.
ER Models Baldwin Sharknose
Posted by Frank Russell on February 27, 2001, 05:19pm
Does anyone have any experience installing decoders in the ER
Models Baldwin Sharknose HO scale diesels? Do they run well?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: ER Models Baldwin Sharknose
Posted by Thomas Eckhardt on April 20, 2001, 10:07am
Just browsing through the threads. I have installed Lenz 103's in
all of my sharks. They work fine.
Thomas
Re: Re: ER Models Baldwin Sharknose
Posted by Frank Russell on April 24, 2001, 04:40pm
Thanks for the info. Do the sharks run as well as Proto 2000 or
Stewart engines?
PR1 and TCS TH141 decoder
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 27, 2001, 12:31pm
I just tried to program a TCS TH141 decoder using a Digitrax PR1.
I have already successfully programmed it on my Digitrax Chief
system so my first attempt with the PR 1 was to read back the CVs.
And of course it didn't work. I tried using the CV programmer and
the Register programmer. The CV programmer returns
x'FF'(decimal 255) for all CVs. The Register programmer reads
back correctly but of course it only handles the 8 basic CVs.
Power for the PR 1 is from a filtered, regulated 15vdc power
supply. I tried experimenting with a resistor in series with the
programming track lead (100 to 300 ohms). I was able to get good
results sometimes but not reliably.
I tried one of my Digitrax DH121 decoders and it works reliably for
all programmers even when I had the resistors in the track lead.
Does anyone have any experience that might help here?
Dale Gloer
Re: PR1 and TCS TH141 decoder
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 27, 2001, 12:40pm
Sorry for the double post - network glitches!
Dale.
Re: Re: PR1 and TCS TH141 decoder
Posted by joe binish on February 27, 2001, 01:31pm
I have had similar problems programming if the functions in/on/
of the decoder are not turned off.
PR1 and TCS TH141 decoder
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 27, 2001, 12:31pm
I just tried to program a TCS TH141 decoder using a Digitrax PR1.
I have already successfully programmed it on my Digitrax Chief
system so my first attempt with the PR 1 was to read back the CVs.
And of course it didn't work. I tried using the CV programmer and
the Register programmer. The CV programmer returns
x'FF'(decimal 255) for all CVs. The Register programmer reads
back correctly but of course it only handles the 8 basic CVs.
Power for the PR 1 is from a filtered, regulated 15vdc power
supply. I tried experimenting with a resistor in series with the
programming track lead (100 to 300 ohms). I was able to get good
results sometimes but not reliably.
I tried one of my Digitrax DH121 decoders and it works reliably for
all programmers even when I had the resistors in the track lead.
Does anyone have any experience that might help here?
Dale Gloer
Decoder for KATO SD-45
Posted by John on February 25, 2001, 08:08pm
Does anyone have experience on which decoder to put in this
engine? I've seen an ad for a small square (can't remember make),
however I've heard that it doesn't work that good.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as well as some on how
to optimize running and where to install a decode on a Rivarossi
Challenger.
Thanks,
John
Re: Decoder for KATO SD-45
Posted by Bob on March 17, 2001, 10:34am
John,
Surprised this didn't get a quicker response. I found the KATO
SD45 easy to convert to DCC as it has a 8 pin plug on the
board. I used a Lenz 104XF which has the plug and simply used
a piece of double sided tape to hold the decoder in place on top
of the standard board.
Re: Re: Decoder for KATO SD-45
Posted by Bill H. on March 19, 2001, 03:53pm
Bob & John,
FYI--You'll find a picture of the
SD-45 decoder installation here on Tony's website under "A
Picture is Worth 1K Words"
Re: Re: Re: Decoder for KATO SD-45
Posted by john on April 11, 2001, 10:40pm
Thanks for the replies. I've been using the 104 decoder in my
P2K GP-30's but didn't think it'd fit in the KATO on account of
the light tubes near the circuit. I'll check the pictures.
Thanks again!!
Proto 0-8-0 Electrical Pickup Conversion
Posted by John Lindemulder on February 25, 2001, 05:37pm
The Proto 0-8-0 uses only the drivers for electrical pickup. Because
the frame is rather stiff with only the 2 middle drivers sprung,
electrical pickup can be a little "iffy" on crossing or curved turnouts
where the curves are super-elevated. I'd like to convert the tender
trucks for electrical pickup, which should make this a great
performing locomotive. Can anyone point me to parts that can be
used to do this conversion?
Sound for Proto 2000 N&W 2-8-8-2
Posted by John lindemulder on February 20, 2001, 09:51pm
I have a Proto 2000 2-8-8-2 lettered for N&W with a SystemOne
decoder installed. It runs great.
I'd like to install Soundtraxx but am unsure which decoder would be
best. Wha about speaker etc.? Any advise would be helpful.
DSX + Motor Decoder in same loco
Posted by Carl Brainerd on February 15, 2001, 05:58pm
I'm getting stuff together to install a DSX sound-only decoder in a
small brass steamer. Due to space limitations the configuration will
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 85

e the DSX decoder plus a separate decoder for the motor drive
(Lenz LE080XS)- similar to the configuration Tony recently
showed for the Bachmann Shay. Does anybody have any advice or
experience on the pros and cons of addressing these two decoders?
Use the same address? Use different addresses and mu them
together? Implications for both programming and operation of the
functions? My system is Lenz-01.
86
Re: DSX + Motor Decoder in same loco
Posted by Dean Tompkins on February 16, 2001, 08:17pm
I used the loco same loco numbers in both modules and have
had no problems. I also have Lenz 01 sysytem. I am not into all
the CV's so it does not create a problem for me.
Re: DSX + Motor Decoder in same loco
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on February 20, 2001, 03:08pm
Carl, I believe the pros/cons are: if you use the same address (I
have done this, and it works quite well; Diesel A powered with
the control decoder and diesel B unpowered with sound and
speakers), remember that both decoders will receive the same
information when you program them. This is only a concern if
the CV's for the decoders are not unique. For instance, CV xx
might control different functions for each decoder. A nice way
around this is to program each decoder individually (sometimes
this is not easy to set-up). I really like to have both decoders
with the same address so I do not need to use the DH function
(this is a matter of choice). Keep in mind that if you use PoM,
then both decoders will recieve the same information (if they
have the same address). I have found that once the decoders are
programmed, that I rarely make any changes.
Ed
PR-1 problems
Posted by Allen on February 14, 2001, 11:35pm
I got my PR-1 today got it hooked up.Com shows okay, but no
matter what I try, I get a red slash on the locomotive. Any ideas?
Re: PR-1 problems
Posted by Phil E. on February 15, 2001, 01:14am
Here's the review of the PR-1. Perhaps you may come across
somehing that will help:
http://www.ttx-dcc.com/technews/pr1_review.htm
Phil
Re: Re: PR-1 problems
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 15, 2001, 09:03am
Some PR1 users have said they have the same problem about the
red slashes through the icons. Try to read and write to the
decoder anyway and you should still get results. If you do just
ignore the red slashes. Some of the reasons for this occurring.
programming track not clean, loco wheels not clean, pr1
connections loose, batteries(if you use the two 9volt system)
weak or old. I am sure you get the point.
Re: PR-1 problems
Posted by Allen on February 15, 2001, 05:07pm
I found my problem, guess it helps if the outlet is working.
Digitrax Questions
Posted by Phil Adams on February 14, 2001, 10:10am
With a standard layout, not club sized, is the primary reason for
buying the Chief Wireless as opposed to the Empire Builder
Wireless, the Read back capability on the CV's? If so, then doesn't
the PRI software program solve that problem? Or am I missing
something? Thanks
Re: Digitrax Questions
Posted by Kenneth Ruof on February 14, 2001, 04:01pm
I bought the Empire Builder II as I am working on a moderate
size home layout and if I need to read the CV's I will use the
PR1. So far I have had minimal problems programming with the
DT300/DB150.
Re: Re: Digitrax Questions
Posted by Tom Sz. on February 26, 2001, 11:53am
The PR-1 is faster and more convenient than the built in
programmers. But, it is also less consistent and not as reliable,
quite a few people have some issues programming with it.
COM 2 for PR1
Posted by Ralph S. Deblasi on February 14, 2001, 06:48am
Just got a PR1 and cannot locate COM 2 on my Compaq Presario
5150. Windows shows only COM 1. Could my computer not have
COM 2 or do I need to set it up?
Re: COM 2 for PR1
Posted by Tim V on February 22, 2001, 09:15pm
Maybe COM 2 is modem port. My Presario 2120 is setup that
way. Why wouldn't COM 1 port work? Just substitute COM 1
for COM2.
Re: Re: COM 2 for PR1
Posted by Tom Sz. on February 26, 2001, 11:46am
Assuming you are using the windows version software, I
suggest you try the DOS software. Shut your computer off with
the "Restart in MS-DOS mode" button checked. Run PR1 DOS
that way. It works much better.
DCC Sound with built-in speaker
Posted by Phil G on February 13, 2001, 03:23pm
I am sure I am not dreaming, but...
Did I see an advertisement for a DCC sound decoder with built-in
speaker?
if so, WHO and are they on the web. I am totally failing to find any
information
Many thanks
Phil G
Re: DCC Sound with built-in speaker
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on February 13, 2001, 07:15pm
Phil, you are not dreaming! Soundtraxx offers several "Plug and
Play" decoders that include speakers. You can check them out on
Tony's website (click "on line product list"; then "SoundTraxx
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

DSD" or go to the SoundTraxx website at
www.soundtraxx.com.
Ed
Re: Re: DCC Sound with built-in speaker
Posted by Phil Adams on February 14, 2001, 10:08am
They make PNP decoders with builtin speaker for Spectrum 2-
8-0. Same decoder/speaker fits Spectrum Mountain 4-8-2. Just
have to turn it 180 degrees. Got an email back from Soundtraxx
stating that instructions for the 4-8-2 are included with the 2-8-0
decoder.
Proto 2000 2-8-8-2
Posted by Mal Foster on February 11, 2001, 05:17pm
I have just purchased one of the above locos from TTX. This is the
second one I now have. They both have developed an annoying
squeak while running and I am unable to find the scource. The
excellent performance of the loco is unaffected, but the squeak is
driving me crazy. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Does
anyone know where it comes from? It appears to come from the
valve gear but lubricating this area has not removed the problem.
Help!!!
Re: Proto 2000 2-8-8-2
Posted by John Lindemulder on February 28, 2001, 08:12am
Mal,
You didn't say if this is a constant squeek or an intermitent one.
If it's constant, you may want to look at the wipers for power
pickup on the tender trucks!
lights
Posted by Ralph S. Deblasi on February 08, 2001, 08:12am
When I install a decoder on my chief system and check it on the
short address the lights work. When I reprogram the decoder on the
long address they don't. What am I doing wrong.
Re: lights
Posted by ed bradbury on February 08, 2001, 06:41pm
I think you have to set the long address light CVs of the decoder.
I would check the decoder's manual for the CV settings
An observance:
I have notice that some modelers when discussing DCC systems
and decoders are thinking the one manufacturer's dscoder can
only be operated and CVs set with his system. This was
evedient at the Big E show.
Actually DCC is like the internet both PC and Apples can use it
yet both have different internal operating systems. ANy mfg's
decoder can be used with another mfg's System.
Re: lights
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 09, 2001, 07:36am
What make and model of decoder? My Digitrax DH140 and
DH121s work as you expected. That is, no matter whether I use
the longor short address the lights work without any extra CV
settings.
Dale.
Re: Re: lights
Posted by Ralph S. DeBlasi on February 12, 2001, 09:32am
DH121's and Lenz
Re: Re: Re: lights
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 13, 2001, 07:37am
I have no more ideas. Here's what I set in my DH121s and
everything works as expected.
CV29 = 22
CV17&18 = long address
CV13 = CF
Dial up the long address and go. The lights are automatic
reversing headlights. ON/OFF control is by F0.
I use a Digitrax Chief system.
Dale Gloer
Re: Re: Re: Re: lights
Posted by Ralph DeBlasi on February 14, 2001, 06:46am
Dale, I have CV 29 set to 26. You said you set it to 22?
NCE USERS GROUP
Posted by Rob on February 06, 2001, 02:06pm
Can anyone give me the internet address for the NCE users group?
Re: NCE USERS GROUP
Posted by Seth on February 06, 2001, 09:29pm
Rob,
There is one on egroups.com:
www.egroups.com/group/NCE-DCC
Re: NCE USERS GROUP
Posted by Mike T on February 07, 2001, 07:26am
Try here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NCE-DCC
MRC decoder F7?
Posted by Richard on February 05, 2001, 10:44pm
Anybody familiar with the Platinum series from Model Rectifier
Corp. that can say what type of decoder they would come equipped
with? If you feel it is not a good decoder, do you have a preference
to install in this engine? Also any opinions about the quality (value)
of this engine? Thanks
Re: MRC decoder F7?
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on February 06, 2001, 12:26am
The HO scale F7 from MRC is reviewed in the March 2001
Model Railroader magazine (page 28). There is very little
information regarding DCC, since those units were not available
at the time of the review.
Ed
Re: Re: MRC decoder F7?
Posted by Richard on February 06, 2001, 11:33am
Thanks for the news about the review. I seem to be the last to get
my copy of MR, will be watching. The trouble I find with the
MR reviews is that they fail to mention the downside of new
models. I got bit pretty bad from their reveiw of the Athearn 2-8-
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88
2. My review of that engine does not match what they say at all.
I have had it back to the factory and still have a very poor
engine. Looks great if you leave it sitting still! Thanks again.
Richard
Re: Re: Re: MRC decoder F7?
Posted by ed bradbury on February 08, 2001, 06:29pm
Sorry you do not like the Athearn 2-8-2. I have one that with a
few minor changes will make it run better. 1st cut off the outer
wire wrapping to allow the wires to flex this should eliminate all
running problems & derails. 2nd wheels are too smooth. Athearn
(at Big E show) said run loco on track with wheels slipping to
scuff them. Load train with cars down to point where wheels
slip This will greeeatly improve pulling power. lI have put a
soundtraxx steam decoder in the unit and it is great sound. Hpoe
this helps. ed
Re: Re: Re: MRC decoder F7?
Posted by John Bevington on February 09, 2001, 10:25am
I too was considering buying the Athearn 2-8-2 when they first
came out. I couldn't decide who to buy it from. But I finally
decided to go to my local hobby/train store. They will test run
any engine for you. As a result of the test run, I decided to buy a
Bachmann Spectrum instead. I even tested several of the same
model, and picked the one that ran the best. To me, that's worth
paying a little more.
I don't know Tony's policy, as I just recently fould his web site.
Re: MRC decoder F7?
Posted by Dave on February 10, 2001, 10:55am
I suggest you buy the F7 without the decoder then buy the
decoder of your choice. The MRC decoder is a low performance
decoder with only 14 and 28 speed step modes. I can't get them
to work on a Digitrax system in anything other than 14 speed
steps!
Re: Re: MRC decoder F7?
Posted by Richard on February 12, 2001, 11:24am
Thanks for the info on the type of decoder used. I also run
Digitrax and I am looking for good running equipment. Can you
make any comparision between this engine and others as far as
smooth running,etc.? I'm in an area that leaves the nearest shop
50 miles away and need all the input I can get! Thanks again.
Ops Programming Mode
Posted by Mal Foster on February 03, 2001, 05:03pm
I am unable to access the Ops programming mode. The only mode I
can access is the Page mode. I press the Func F8 to change modes,
all this does is turn the programming mode off altogether. Are there
some Option switches wrongly set?
Re: Ops Programming Mode
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on February 04, 2001, 01:31am
I assume that you have a Lenz system, Version 3.0. If that is
true, then this is how to access operations mode programming or
Programming on the Main (PoM). The LH100 function menu
provides access to all other functions. The different menu items
can be reached in 2 different ways when you are in the locomo-
tive control mode: Option 1, press F and scroll through the
menus with + until you reach PoM, then press enter. Option 2,
press F followed by 7, then press enter. Remember you can only
change CV's, you can not read them. The only exception is the
basic address CV1 and the extended address in CV17 and
CV18. Good luck.
Ed
Re: Re: Ops Programming Mode
Posted by Norman Beveridge on February 07, 2001, 04:14pm
Gee, whiz! When I read stuff like this it makes me very glad that
I have NCE.
Re: Re: Re: Ops Programming Mode
Posted by Edward Hurtubis on February 07, 2001, 08:51pm
Norman, I'm curious; I thought that the Lenz system was pretty
simple to access operations programming mode (PoM). Could
you help me understand how the NCE system handles PoM?
Thanks.
Ed
Re: Re: Re: Re: Ops Programming Mode
Posted by Steve Z. on February 08, 2001, 09:36am
Ed: You press the prog. button on the LCD controller. The first
choice is op. mode programming. You then enter the loco nbr of
the loco you want to work with. The default is the currently
selected loco for that cab. There are then several choices for what
you want to do. We use the change CV option. You then merely
enter the CV nbr and the new value from the keypad. The
system knows "special" CV numbers such as short address,long
address, and the config CV, and displays special dialogs for
them. If short addressing is active you can change the long
address; if long is active you can change the short. You can then
change the cfg CV to activate the other. REALLY SIMPLE. In
fact, if you know a decoder's initial short address, you may
never have to use the programming track !!! Steve Z.
Proto 2000 GP7
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on February 02, 2001, 02:11pm
I am trying to locate replacement handrails for my Reading (green)
GP7. Life-Like can only supply a black replacement. I know that I
can paint the handrails, but I wanted to try to match the original
model. Any suggestions? Thanks
Consist Problem
Posted by Jack white on February 02, 2001, 09:31am
I have 2 N gauge Atlas RS-3s with LE077 decoders and use NCE
DCC. When I consist these 2 engines, going forward, the dront
engine light works fine, but in reverse, no light. What might I be
doing wrong ?
Re: Consist Problem
Posted by DonV on February 02, 2001, 10:00am
You have the LE077 configured for reversing headlight action.
So when it goes in reverse, the 'Front' light will be OFF and the
'Rear' light will be ON.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Try re-configuring the proper CV. See the LE077 manual. If you
can't re-configure the LE077 CVs for non-reversing headlights,
you should be able to wire both the front and rear headlight
wires in parallel from the decoder to the front lamp. [The Blue
wire is the common +V hot side. The F & R wires are internally
connected as open collector type transistors (or MOSFET
equivalents).] Now the front headlight will be on in either
direction.
DonV
Walther's FM
Posted by joe binish on January 31, 2001, 09:37am
since i am now the proud new owner of a walther's HO FM
switcher, i would like to know if anyone has installed a decoder in
this loco, and which decoder. one fellow on the PM list has
mentioned that this loco has burned up a bnch of decoder, i don't
want to play that game!
Re: Walther's FM
Posted by Bernhard on January 31, 2001, 06:01pm
I have the same engine but have yet to install a decoder.
However it is the same drive set-up as the early Atlas S2 - both
were built by Roco and they have excellent motors. The key to
the installation is to insulate the motor brush from the motor
frame and thereby from the engine frame. After you remove the
motor you will see that under one brush screw there is a brass
plate which contacts the frame of the motor. Replace it with a
similar one made of styrene and you're set. The decoder I would
use today is the Digitrax DZ121, its small enough to istall in the
cab. For my S2 I used the DN140 but I plan to swap it out
because I don't use the extra features.
Re: Walther's FM
Posted by Dave Chance on February 03, 2001, 12:19am
Joe, I have an early Walthers FM and I have a Digitrax DH121
installed. Since the power from the rails is only connected to the
chassis through the pc board, there is no need to insulate the
motor from the chasis. Of course you will have to use insulated
couplers, I use Kadee number 5 with its draft gear box (plastic).
I installed 14 volt, 30 ma. bulbs for front and rear lights. The
motor in the FM, like Atlas/Roco S2/S4 has a current draw of
700 to 900 ma. normal and about 1.2 amps stalled. Use a
decoder with at least 1.3 amps continous rating. The DH121 is
rated at 1.5 amps. I have had no problems. The DN140 and
DZ121 are both a little on the small side for this motor.
Re: Walther's FM
Posted by Dave Chance on February 03, 2001, 12:32am
Oops! I forgot to mention that you need to use a knife or dremel
tool to cut through the copper conductors on the pcb to isolate
the motor from the rail power leads. There are several pages on
the web that tell how to install a decoder in an Atlas S2. Use one
of these as a guide line of where to cut the traces. The one I used
was on Don Crano's or Alan Gartner's site.
Can't Use 01 Short address
Posted by Mal Foster on January 30, 2001, 08:35pm
Everytime I try to select a loco with the 01 short address, I get a cn
message on my DT100IR throttle.
What does this mean? Once I re-programmed the loco to another
address it worked fine. Confused, I can't locate the problem in the
manual. Would appreciate some help.
Re: Can't Use 01 Short address
Posted by Dale Gloer on January 31, 2001, 08:33am
Mal,
the cn message means that the address is assigned to a consist.
You can release it from the consist by selecting the address, then
pressing MODE/DISP twice so the indicator dot at the top of the
display is under the MU lable, then press the - (minus) key. This
will release the address fromt he consist and you should then be
able to select it normally.
I don't have an easy way to identify which address it is consisted
too. I guess some day you will find an address that will display
1b when selected. The 1b indicates it is a top consist address. If
there are no other addresses consisted to it, then you can release
it by the usual SEL DISP key sequence.
Hope this helps, Dale.
Re: user group
Posted by Ron on January 26, 2001, 09:41pm
I was a member of the Digitrax egroup and have just tried to move
over to Yahoo. I found that is not as easy to sign on as the old
egroup list. The only area that I could get in was the messages. In
the old list you could get into all areas (ie chatroom, database,links).
After all the headaches I think that I'll be passing on the Yahoo
merger, but I will miss the Digitrax chatroom.
Re: Re: user group
Posted by Bernhard on January 31, 2001, 05:56pm
I was just on the e-groups site under yahoo and had no
problems. I've always had a yahoo account and when egroup
became part of yahoo I just linked my egroup account to the new
set-up. All the files, databases and other things I had befor are
still accessable in much the same format - only different colors.
nce user group
Posted by Bob Miller on January 26, 2001, 12:29pm
I have been a member of the Egroup for nce. Suddenly today as I
went to enter the group, I found it on Yahoo instead of egroups and
it will not accept me to register or get into ncegroup. Has this
become an exclusive club or what is going on? Anyone know?
Re: nce user group
Posted by Tomas Szoboszlai on January 26, 2001, 02:17pm
It's just the effect of the Yahoo/eGroups merger. I had some
trouble with some lists I own as well. You are still subscribed. If
you have been reading messages on the web rather than getting
them e-mail, you have to sign on to Yahoo and get a Yahoo
member id.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 89

90
If you do sign on to Yahoo, be sure to uncheck the little box
somehwere in your profile that says you agree to have Yahoo
send you special offers (er, ... SPAM) via e-mail.
Good luck.
Re: Re: nce user group
Posted by Bob Miller on January 26, 2001, 06:07pm
Thanks for the info, I just finally got on 20 minutes ago. I kept
bugging Yahoo until they sent me a site and an authorization
code and then it was ducksoup. I had tried to register as a new
member and it went downhill from there. I don't get the emails
so didn't know it was happening.
Again thanks
NCE for LL Proto 1000
Posted by Dick LaSalle on January 23, 2001, 02:18am
I have a LL proto 1000 F3A. Which
NCE decoder should I use and are
there installation instructions
for this loco.
Re: NCE for LL Proto 1000
Posted by Bob Miller on January 23, 2001, 09:32am
It has been awhile since I installed one in my F3, but I used an
NCE that has the wires, don't remember the number. I hardwired
the decoder to the engine and it works fine. Instructions for the
wires are included with the decoder. Just remember you have
pickup wires from both trucks on each side, and the two wires
from the motor. Then whatever light effects you want.
Re: Re: NCE for LL Proto 1000
Posted by Bob Miller on January 23, 2001, 09:36am
Believe it was the D102 decoder I used. Might ask Tony, he sold
me a potfull of decoders when I started converting diesels from
Dynatrol to NCE and most required hardwiring.
Re: NCE for LL Proto 1000
Posted by DonV on January 23, 2001, 10:20am
1. Use NCE D102 decoder with wires, either US or EC unit. A
perfect fit.
2. Make plastic or fiberboard spacer, 1.07 lg x 0.175 w x ~0.04
thk. (inches) one for each engine
3. Cut copper traces on pcb at 3 locations marked w/ 'X'.
4. locate DCC decoder inside weight cavity at back of body,
parts side up, wires toward rear.
5. Slip spacer under decoder from side for support. Secure w/
tape if necessary. Be sure it will clear body shell.
6. Loop decoder wires over the top and solder to pcb traces.
I also retrofit mine with white LED headlamps.
DonV
Re: Re: NCE for LL Proto 1000
Posted by RobH on January 26, 2001, 12:14pm
Don;
You mentioned you retro-fit the LL Proto 1000 F3 with a white
LED. May I ask where you purchase them, their size, and are
resistors required? Any help appreciated.
Rob
Re: Re: Re: NCE for LL Proto 1000
Posted by DonV on January 26, 2001, 05:29pm
I used Chicago Miniature Lamp, Inc. white LED parts. Bought
them through Digikey, at www.digikey.com (page 646 of the
Dec 2000 catalog). Search for p/n CMD333UWC. This is the
T1 3/4 (5mm) size. Used a 1K 1/4 watt resistor in series with the
LED to power it from the DCC decoder. This drives the LED at
11 ma for a very bright light.
The 5mm LED is almost a perfect fit in the F unit headlamp hole.
I simply lighted up the plastic light pipe like the original lamp.
There is also a T-1, 3mm size white LED. This looks great when
mounted somewhat recessed in the F or E unit headlamps. Also
good for replacing the yellow LEDs in switch engines.
DonV
CZ-121 & MRC 2000
Posted by Mel Moore on January 21, 2001, 03:42pm
I,m thinking of using an MRC 2000 on my work bench test track so
I don't always have to walk back and forth to the layout to test
engines. Several of my engines have DZ-121 decoders in them and
they came with a notice not to use DZ-121 decoders with Lenz,
MRC and Easy DCC systems due to a "timing error". Is this
something that I have to worry about? Is there a patch that can be
added to these decoders to make them work? I also have several
friends that are considering DCC and would like to be able to run
on there layouts if they do not choose Dgitrax. Any info would be
of great hepl.
Thanks
Mel Moore
OOPS! I meant DZ-121 & MRC 2000
Posted by Mel Moore on January 22, 2001, 03:05pm
I got the title of my previous post wrong. I meant to ask about
the DZ- 121 and the MRC 2000 system. Sorry about the
confusion.
Mel Moore
Stewart F7a
Posted by richard on January 18, 2001, 11:48am
Has anyone had experience with the Stewart F7a? Can't find it
locally to look at it in person but am thinking of mail order. Does
anyone know if it is dcc ready or had any experience with installing
decoder? Thanks for any info.
Re: Stewart F7a
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on January 18, 2001, 12:09pm
Stewart Hobbies F7 A&B diesels are DCC ready and are
excellent locomotives. I have installed decoders (one with
sound)in several Stewart locomotives. You can check the
Stewart Hobbies website: http://stewarthobbies.com for a
complete listing of their products (many with pictures). Tony's as
well as many other mail order stores carry Stewart Hobbies
locomotives.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Digitrax 300 vs. 400
Posted by Ed B. on January 14, 2001, 09:54pm
What are the expected benefits of the Digitrax DT400 vs. the
currently shipping DT400?
Locked up NCE Procab
Posted by Mike Tillger on January 14, 2001, 12:20pm
My NCE powerhouse pro locks up at the opening screen. Cab
displays PROCAB 03 V1.2 MODE = REGULAR and locks up. As
I only have one cab, I can not tell if it is cab or command station
problem. Track seems to power up ok, at least my soundtraxx units
on track have sound. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Re: Locked up NCE Procab
Posted by Bob Miller on January 14, 2001, 07:48pm
Try egroups.com/group/NCE-DCC. This is obviously an NCE
user group and there are some very knowledgeable guys in that
group. You will have to subscribe first to post a question, but
you will find it worth while if you are heavy into NCE,
Re: Locked up NCE Procab
Posted by John Bevington on January 23, 2001, 10:03am
I had a similar problem when I first received my NCE PRO. My
old power unit was simply insufficient. Once I bought a new
"made for DCC" power unit, everything worked.
Lenz Factory Settings?
Posted by D. Jones on January 09, 2001, 06:15pm
Could someone tell me how to reset a Lenz LE080XS decoder back
to all of the factory settings using the Digitrax Chief system? Can
this be done by a mere confused mortal? Thanks
Re: Lenz Factory Settings?
Posted by ed bradbury on January 09, 2001, 07:36pm
I am not sure but there is one CV (CV 30) that will reset decoder
but not all decoders support that particular CV check your
instructions that came with the decoder. Most of the DCC
systems should be able to set any allowed decoder CV
Re: Re: Lenz Factory Settings?
Posted by D. Jones on January 09, 2001, 08:46pm
I have tried both CV 30 & CV 8 using the Digitrax Chief
system. So far I have not been able to detect any change. I would
expect the address to go back to 03. I still need help on this one.
Thanks.
Re: Re: Re: Lenz Factory Settings?
Posted by Bob Miller on January 10, 2001, 09:11am
I use NCE so can't address from the Digitrax perspective.
However, would reccomend calling Lenz support. I have had to
call them a couple of times and these folks are good. I have a
Lenz 03 decoder that has the wrong number in the long address,
I couldn't make it accept a new number. Called Lenz, they told
me how to do it with NCE.
Re: Lenz Factory Settings?
Posted by Tom Sz. on January 17, 2001, 01:43am
For the LE080XS and many other Lenz decoders, writing a
value of decimal 33 to CV08 using Register mode resets all CVs
to their factory condition (Version 4.5).
Of course, decimal 33 is the same as "21" in Digitrax hexadecimal.
So, digitrax users need to write "21" to CV08. (Hope I got
that right).
LL GP20 install
Posted by Doug Kraus on January 07, 2001, 05:19pm
I am new to model railroading and dcc. I have a proto 2000 LL
gp20 phase III with solder pads. Can I just solder the wires from
the decoder to the respective solder pad. If so how many traces need
to be cut?
Any help would be appreciated.
Re: LL GP20 install
Posted by Bob Miller on January 07, 2001, 07:51pm
Doug:
the gp20's I did, I hardwired and removed the board, but I was
under the impression there is additional instructions on the
instruction sheet for converting to DCC which tells what traces
to cut. If not, hang tight and one of the other guys will answer in
a day or so. I don't have an instruction sheet around anymore.
D102EU in Kato -9
Posted by Kenny MAC on January 05, 2001, 06:04pm
I am having trouble getting the lights (yellow leds) to work in my
dash 9.
Following the wiring diagram that came with the decoder, causes
the front light to illuminate when going in reverse and visa versa.
Thanks in advance.
-Ken
CP, CN, help
Posted by Darian Davis on January 02, 2001, 03:33pm
I cannot find any resource on the web that shows actual track
diagrams for CP, CN, or BC, in the western region? Anyone have
any suggestions where I could go to find this information. I am
looking for modern era only. My future layout thanks you!
Re: CP, CN, help
Posted by Georges Ferland on January 09, 2001, 12:11pm
Hi Darian,
You are looking for real rairoad plans for your new layout. Well
here I have found what you are looking for.
Go to these sites:
www.bcrail.com/ and go to the route maps. You will find the
complete railraod of BC Rail and its connections.
For the Canadian National got to:
www.cn.ca/cnwebsite/cnwebsite.nsf/cnhome#
clic ont the map on your left and you will see the complete CN
Railroad in Canada
Hope you find your rairoad to model.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 91

92
Good luck,
Georges Ferland
SW1500 Ditch Lites
Posted by Bob Menzies on January 01, 2001, 11:11pm
Thanks to all who aided in my SW 1500 decoder installation
problems. Finally got it right tonite!Bob
Holiday Specials
Posted by Ron A on December 31, 2000, 10:44pm
I have gotten the error message for the last couple of days, Has
anyone contacted Tony.
Re: Holiday Specials
Posted by Benjamin on January 02, 2001, 01:10am
Its been like that for me as well...
I was hoping he'd have a killer deal on the Chief II ;)
Re: Re: Holiday Specials
Posted by Thomas Gleave on January 02, 2001, 05:42pm
Tony had Chief ll as a sale I think it was the 3rd.or 4th. day. for
$299.00
HOLIDAY SPECIAL
Posted by Ed W. flagstaff az. on December 31, 2000, 04:31pm
I have the same problem-
Holiday Special
Posted by Mike Barton on December 31, 2000, 02:38pm
When I click on the link to the Holiday Special I get an error
message. The error started last night, before then everything
worked. Is anybody else getting an error when they click that link?
All other TTX links seem to work properly. Thanks.
Mike
NCE in P2K GP-7
Posted by Jack Merkel on December 29, 2000, 08:14pm
I have put 5 NCE decoders in P2K-GP-7's with no problems. The
6th one gets very hot - too hot to touch - on the plug end. The
engine will operate correctly including the headlights. I assume
there must be some kind of short. How do you trouble shoot
something like this? I put the hot decoder in another loco to see if
the problem was the loco or the decoder. It got hot in the other loco
too. I then put another NCE decoder in the problem loco and it also
got hot. Any ideas on how to trouble shoot?
Re: NCE in P2K GP-7
Posted by DonV on January 03, 2001, 03:01pm
Sounds like you've soft fried two decoders. Look for and
measure each motor and lamp lead wires with an ohmmeter to be
sure that they are insulated from the frame and all wheels. Early
P2K GP7s had something wrong on the pcb at the DCC socket/
holes that caused decoder failure. [Had something to do with the
NMRA green wire]Compare the pcb on this loco with that on
the others that work. Use an ohmmeter to verify the pcb foil
patterns. Contact Life-Like for a pcb replacement or cut & patch
as necessary. Contact NCE for repair service. They are usually
quite gracious.
Stall Current for DCC
Posted by Len Soper on December 29, 2000, 06:44pm
I want to determine the stall current for each of my loco's. I'm in
HO, standard gauge. The procedures I've seen does not mention
what dc voltage to use. Should it be 12V, 15.5V or what? The
current will be different for different voltages.
Re: Stall Current for DCC
Posted by Leonard Stern on December 29, 2000, 07:46pm
The standard as far as I know is 12volts. There is much in the
archives of digitax list about this. Regards. Leonard Stern.
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Stall Current for DCC
Posted by DonV on January 02, 2001, 12:40pm
You can measure it at practically any DC voltage then calculate
what it will be at 12 V. 1) Remove all loco headlights and other
electrical loads except the motor. 2) Set up a short piece of test
track so that you can measure current and voltage. Use a pure
DC throttle (no pulse power). 3) Press down on the loco so it
won't move and apply power to the track. 4) Increase the throttle
volts to get about 6V (or use a good 6 V lantern battery.)
Measure and record the amperes and the track voltage. If you
have only one meter, do it twice at the same throttle setting. Once
to measure current, the second time to measure actual track
voltage with the loco stalled. 5) Calculate the motor resistance as
R = E/I (ohms = Volts/Amps). 6) Calculate the DCC motor stall
current at 12 volts as Amps = 12V/R ohms. The DCC decoder
you select should be capable of handling at least that many peak
amperes.
Atlas DCC/ Soundtraxx DSX?
Posted by Robert on December 26, 2000, 02:51pm
I need to know if Atlas DCC and it's dual mode decoders are
compatible with Soundtraxx DSX?
SW1500/Ditch lites
Posted by Bob Menzies on December 16, 2000, 03:48pm
I am installing front and rear ditch lites on an H.O. Athearn SW
1500. I would like the shell to separate from the chassis for
servicing. Miniatronics connectors are okay but kinda pricey. Does
anyone have any suggestions or done a similar conversion I can
learn from? Thanks in advance Bob
Re: SW1500/Ditch lites
Posted by Georges Ferland on December 16, 2000, 07:57pm
For all connections that will need to be seperated one day, I use
PC micro-connector parts that are used for plug-ins. I use a
saber saw and cut the part for the number of connections I need.
All my engine bodies can be seperated from there frame by
using these plug-ins. All lights, all motor connections and all
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

parts that for some unknown reasons go wrong can be disconnected
quickly and without any unsolderring. It take some
getting around, but it is very easy when the first one is done.
You will need a good soldering iron to do the job quickly
because these parts are held together in a kind of plastic. You
will need some heat-shrink to protect your bare wires from
touching the loco-frame. I forget the name of this pc-microconnector
but when it gets back to me I will let you know what
ist called !!!
georges.ferland@tr.cgocable.ca
Re: Re: SW1500/Ditch lites
Posted by Bob Menzies on December 17, 2000, 08:53am
Thanks for the info George. I think Radio Shack makes a similar
product. I do have some of the male connectors downstairs now
if the female parts would just show their pretty face I'm off.
Re: Re: Re: SW1500/Ditch lites
Posted by Georges Ferland on December 18, 2000, 09:45am
The male becomes the female, they are all inter-plugins. I will let
you know the name of the part I was talking about.
Georges Ferland
Re: Re: Re: Re: SW1500/Ditch lites
Posted by Georges Ferland on December 18, 2000, 07:58pm
Here it is.
Go to your Digi-Key catalog, the part is called a single in-line
strip socket.
Part # 310-93-164-41-001, like I said the male socket becomes
the female socket and vice-versa.
Hope this does the job for you.
Merry Christmass.
Georges Ferland
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: SW1500/Ditch lites
Posted by Bob Menzies on December 23, 2000, 06:14pm
Thanks George for your help. I'll try and get some of those
ASAP.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: SW1500/Ditch lites
Posted by Jacques Lajoie on December 24, 2000, 10:14am
Hi Bob, if you look in the 2001 Walthers Reference Book, page
775, you will find "MINI PIN TERMINAL STRIP" that look
exactly to what Georges is writing about.
need layout....
Posted by brian on December 11, 2000, 02:32pm
I have been out of the MR'ing loop for a year or so, and am just
now finishing the move to the tampa bay area. I want a new N-scale
layout, but don't have the time to build one.... where (besides the
vacuum-formers) can I buy a small, light layout? I want it to be
about 3x4' max, for running smaller equipment... anyone have a
friend who's looking to get rid of one? I'd really appreciate it.....
-brian@area51west.com
minimum radius for ho
Posted by David Nosack on December 09, 2000, 11:03pm
In order to build anywhere close to my dream layout I need to have
my minimum radius on my mainline around 22". Will I be able to
run any of the large locos?
Re: minimum radius for ho
Posted by Leonard Stern on December 10, 2000, 10:53am
David. Using 22" radius will limit your loco size to Pacific or
less if you want carefree operation and good appearance. If you
are in a real bind and must use 22" try laying the track with
transitions. This way you could get up to a 4-8-4 but the swing
would be unrealistic. Just some thoughts. Leonard
NCE wireless
Posted by Terry Ketcham on December 07, 2000, 06:54pm
Thanks to all who reponded to my conflict between power bus and
cab bus. I since spoke with Ken at Tony's who is taking orders for
wireless components to convert the NCE system to a complete
wireless system. He says that no cab bus should be required since
this system will beable to do everything without pluging in. I'm not
sure if you need to be pluged in while programming on a program
track. Our club uses digitrax wireless and it works great but you do
need to plug into the cab bus to select locos and other functions.
Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Bob Miller on December 08, 2000, 09:42am
NCE wireless sounds great. I have operated on other layouts
using the Rail Command wireless combined with tethered and
like it very much. I have a rather large railroad that is NCE with
12 of the cab04 throttles. Stories conflict as to whether or not
these 12 cabs can be converted to wireless by an add-in module
or not. However, I have no intention for the near future of giving
up the tethered bus line for total wireless. I plan a gradual phase
in of wireless dependent on how well it performs, etc. But
certain phases of operation can do just fine using tethered
cab04's and so I will go that route.
Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Terry Ketcham on December 09, 2000, 08:21pm
Bob-Thanks for the input. Since you have a NCE system with
multiple cabs in use,let me ask you a question. Our club uses
Digitrax. If an operator is running a locomotive and another
operator trys to select the same loco, the cabs LCD displays a
"33" which means that someone else already has selected that
loco. Does the NCE system also work like this ? I have the NCE
ProCab addressed as 02. A friend dropped over last night with
his NCE ProCab addressed as 03 and we started running trains.
I was surprised to find that he could select an engine with his
cab that I was running with mine. Is this normal? I was
expecting to see an "in use" message or something like that on
the LCD screen on his cab but instead the locomotive number
showed up, which was identical to the number on my cab. I'm
new to the DCC world and would appreciate any help. Thanks
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 93

94
Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Bob Miller on December 10, 2000, 11:59pm
Terry: sorry for delaying in response. I just got back to KC and
it is 11 PM Sunday night. My procab will display a message to
the effect that a consist is already assigned to another cab and do
I want to "take it".
The cab04p's I use do not have a display, and quite honestly I
have not had anyone take a consist that someone else is running.
I will bring the railroad up Monday, and set up that situation and
see what happens. will try to respond to you Monday evening
with results.
Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Steve Z. on December 11, 2000, 08:47am
Terry:
This is a NCE Command Station setup option.
Steve Z.
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Bob Miller on December 14, 2000, 09:20am
Terry:
Sorry to be so long responding. I started a consist running using
cab14, then selected same consist with cab08, both cabs then
would control the consist. The cab08 shut the consist down, then
I could start it up with either cab. Guess we have been lucky
during operating sessions. As I said earlier, the procab will tell
me the consist is already assigned to another cab and ask if I
want to take it away.
Don't know about what Steve V said about it being an option of
the command station. Will have to drag the manual out on that
one.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Terry Ketcham on December 16, 2000, 06:16pm
Bob-Thanks for the demo work you did.We were running my
railroad with two Procabs and using the Recall button to activate
our locomotives as opposed to using the Select Loco button and
entering the loco number. Using the Recall function allowed the
Cabs to select the same locos at the same time. As you said by
using the Select Loco button and entering the loco number an IN
USE message was displayed if another another Cab had that
loco. I think we'll not be using the Recall button during operation
sessions. Thank you for clearing this up for me!! Terry
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Tim V on February 22, 2001, 10:19pm
Terry,
I just found this bulliten board. Referance your ?? about taking
locos from other cabs and command station setup. The command
station set up is to display the warning only that you receive.
Whichever parameter you choose you can still take a loco. P.74
NCE System referance manual (rev.11/5/99).
I Lve my NCE System.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by MIKE P. on February 27, 2001, 04:00pm
I SEE ALL THESE RE: RE: ABOUT NCE WIRELESS, AND
ONLY ONE ADDRESSED THE TOPIC ITSELF. CAN
ANYONE TELL ME THE STATUS OF NCE WIRELESS. WE
OPERATE 5 LAYOUTS LOCALLY WITH POWERHOUSE
PRO SYSTEMS AND APPROX. 25 TO 30 CABO4E UNITS.
WE ARE ANXIOUSLY AWAITING THE "WIRELESS"
WE ARE MORE THAN SATISFIED WITH NCE!! THANKS
IN ADVANCE
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Mark Stafford on March 01, 2001, 05:23pm
I have been waiting for the NCE wireless from when it was first
anounced, say four years ago. A couple of times along the way
we were told due fall, or some other time. Me, I am giving up
waiting. I think I am going to buy the IR from Dynatrol and use
that.
Long life suppliers who do what they say they are going to do.
Happy Railroading.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Dale Gloer on March 02, 2001, 07:41am
I will venture my opinion on wireless vs IR. I have used both
wireless and IR from Digitrax (I know this is thread is about
NCE) and I know I would never be satisfied with IR since I
have used the wireless. All it takes is one time when you really
need control and the the IR signal doesn't get received to make
you realize how much better wireless is.
Dale.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE wireless
Posted by Roger Robar on March 02, 2001, 07:22pm
I talked to Tony a few days ago. He said NCE has tested the
wireless system for the five amp booster and is testing now with
the 10 amp booster. No official date for purchasing but Tony
said it is getting close. I have had mine on order for over 18
months. I know it will be worth waiting for. All I can say is,
hang in there. Tony did say NCE's wireless will blow the
competition away.
Roger
power bus/cab bus conflict
Posted by Terry Ketcham on December 06, 2000, 02:54pm
I'm installing a NCE dcc system using #14 AWG power bus and the
normal 6 cond. flat telephone wire for the cab bus. Do I have to
keep a certain distance between these two cables as I install them
under the layout.I didn't know if I would
experience any electrical or control problems. thanks
Re: power bus/cab bus conflict
Posted by Bob Miller on December 06, 2000, 03:34pm
Terry, I am using 12 gauge wire and the buss. The bus was
pulled to replace a Dynatrol bus and there are places were the
bus and the track power bus are close, but have not had any
problems. I don't know of a set limit. Mine is a fairly large
layout and it is pretty much impossible to keep them away from
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

each other altogether. I expect a long run next to each other might
be a problem.
Re: Re: power bus/cab bus conflict
Posted by Roger Robar on December 07, 2000, 08:29am
I use NCE, have approx. 150'bus with 11 cab outlets. Many are
spaced 5-6" apart. Have had no problems in over 2 yrs. Wireless
coming SOON (Tony says this month)so will see what happens
then. Roger
Re: power bus/cab bus conflict
Posted by DonV on December 07, 2000, 12:28pm
I too am using NCE. I bundled my track buss wires with the cab
cable in many places along my 100 ft of layout...Even tiewrapped
them together. I've seen no problems.
HELP! Athearn Mikado
Posted by Don Jones on December 01, 2000, 11:30pm
I have a broken red pickup wire on an Athearn Mike. How do I
break into the engine to re-connect the wire?
Re: HELP! Athearn Mikado
Posted by John Ott on December 04, 2000, 08:32am
One of the recent issues of "Model Railroader" had an article on
Detailing a Mike. I think that it was about September or October.
There is a detailed description of how to take the engine apart. I
will get back to you as soon as I find the issue. Good luck. JO
Re: Re: HELP! Athearn Mikado
Posted by Roger Robar on December 06, 2000, 01:19pm
MR- Dec.,1999 had the review of the Athearn's 2-8-2 which
includes taking the model apart. The molding of parts are so well
done you cannot see that they are seperate parts. I too had wires
come loose because of poor soldering. Check them all.
Roger
Re: Re: Re: HELP! Athearn Mikado
Posted by Don Jones on December 06, 2000, 07:15pm
Thanks for the help on finding directions for the Mikado
disassembly. It is running now.
PR-1 Minimum Requirements?
Posted by hoboclub@stargate.net on November 19, 2000, 05:47pm
What are the *absolute* minimum requirements for the PR-1 using
the DOS software?
Our club has an old computer which I believe has an 8088
processor. I don't think it's a 286. It has IBM DOS 5.0. I haven't
used it in years.
Assuming I can get it working, I would love to use it for decoder
programming, since it has one feature I love more than anything: it's
paid for :)
Getting it rehabilitated should be no problem, but I don't want to
bother if I can't use it to program decoders. Is anyone here using an
antique computer with the PR-1?
Thanks,
Jason
Re: PR-1 Minimum Requirements?
Posted by DonV on November 20, 2000, 11:31am
There is a version of PR1 that works w/ DOS. See http://
users.lanminds.net/~sljkrr/.
Re: Re: PR-1 Minimum Requirements?
Posted by JCS on November 20, 2000, 04:20pm
If that is an 8088 processor your computer is at best an old XT.
It will run Windows 3.1 ok. You may find yourself limited as to
memory. I belive the max for those old girls was 640k.
Re: Re: Re: PR-1 Minimum Requirements?
Posted by Tony B. on November 20, 2000, 10:32pm
According to the Windows 3.1 manual, for standard mode your
PC requires a 286 processor or higher, 640K of conventional
memory plus 256K of extended memory. For 386 enhanced
mode, the PC needs 386 processor or higher, 640K of conv
mem and 1024K of ext mem. In addition, you will need a
display adapter and a mouse is recommended.
None the less, the Dos version should work on the 8088.
Re: PR-1 Minimum Requirements?
Posted by Alan Larsson on November 27, 2000, 12:41pm
For PR-1 DOS version, it was written with the explicit
campability to run on a XT level PC.
NCE Decoders
Posted by Dean Tompkins on November 17, 2000, 06:26pm
Has anyone had any experience with Lenz 01 Set reference 4 diget
address input. I have the latest version-3 and can not get a 4 digit
address to work. No problem with Lenz decoders, since they use
the direct mode. Thanks, Dean
Re: NCE Decoders
Posted by Ed Hurtubis on November 18, 2000, 12:00pm
I have only used Lenz decoders for the four digit address (Direct
mode); however, I can tell you how to program a four digit
address by using CV's. It is a little confusing, but it might work
for you. First, let's assume the four digit address is 1361. Set
CV1 to 61, CV17 to 197, CV18 to 81, and CV29 bit 5 must be
set for extended addresssing. Now, to calculate CV17 and
CV18. Add 49152 to 1361 = 50513. Divide 50513 by 256 =
197 (CV17). The remainder is 81 (CV18). Good luck!
Proto 2-8-8-2 Review
Posted by Jim Chamberlin on November 15, 2000, 02:44pm
Received my Proto "Heritage" 2-8-8-2 from Tony and out of the
box, a great runner. Pulls 15 4 oz cars up my 2 1/2% grades like a
champ. Excellent speed range but feel the front engine is a little light
on the tracks yet it still tracks well through my #6 mainline code 70
switches and 26" radius curves. Engine is very quiet but has a very
high starting point (40 to 50 on my NCE system) which I hope will
go down with use. (Tony, any thoughts on this?) A little squeeky in
the linkage..perhaps a dap of lube will fix that issue. Overall, very
happy and can't wait to paint and weather it to the colors of the
Pacific South.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 95

Turnouts for DCC
Posted by Rob Ripchick on November 15, 2000, 01:23pm
Tony recommends PECO insulfrog as the most DCC friendly. They
are only available in code 100. Anybody have a suggestion for a
code 83 turnout that works well? Also isn't an electrofrog preferred
to prevent stalls? If so does wiring the frog through the switch
machine prevent shorts?
96
Re: Turnouts for DCC
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 15, 2000, 04:38pm
The Atlas turnouts are short resistant, which is a better term that
DCC friendly. If you like the Micro Engineering, Walthers
(which are Shinohara), or Shinohara turnouts, then you might
want to make some modifications to the turnouts. If you
precisely tune all of your wheel sets, and set the track gauge
precisely, these turnouts will work well as is. But as you
probably know, things change with time. In order to avoid the
"shorting" issues with these turnouts, some people gap the
frogs, bond the point rails to the stock rails, and perhaps tie the
frog to a power routing switch on the switch machine. It is a lot
of work.
Re: Re: Turnouts for DCC
Posted by Gary Rombough on November 15, 2000, 08:22pm
Before you proceeds to far you might want to review "Wiring
for DCC by Allan Gartner". He has some of the best ideas for
DCC friendly switches I have seen.
Re: Turnouts for DCC
Posted by DonV on November 17, 2000, 09:33am
I've had good luck with Atlas code 83 track switches. These are
improved over the code 100 line. Work OK on DCC as-is.
I also use Walthers/Shinohara code 83 curved switches. Isolate
all rails. Power the whole switch section through a light bulb to
make it more short resistant. Inspect and tweak the copper
contact at the points for reliable power routing of the frog. Or
you can insulate the self-contained contact and use an auxiliary
switch on the switch machine for powering the frog.
Be sure to visit Allan Gartner's site and digest all the DCC
friendly stuff. He's right, but close to overkill.
DonV
Re: Re: Turnouts for DCC
Posted by E.T. Halloran on November 17, 2000, 01:20pm
I have had good luck with the Piltz turnouts. I have run both
brass & plastic, (steam & diesel) with hours of back and forth
testing with good results. I have used #5's to # 8's straight and
curved and all have worked very smooth. The Piltz turnouts are
easily made DCC compatible. They are a little pricey and only
two dealers that I know of. Tony of TTX did get them for me on
special request. I bought twenty at one time.
Happy Rails, Ed
Decoder for Proto 2000 SD60
Posted by John Lindemulder on November 06, 2000, 06:55pm
I am a user of SystemOne. I just purchased some Proto 2000
SD60's and am looking for a good decoder to use. Normally I
would use DH-155 decoders but they sem to be hard to get right
now. Any ideas or suggestion are appreciated. Long address
capability and independant operator control of front and rear
headlight a must.
Re: Decoder for Proto 2000 SD60
Posted by Jacques Lajoie on November 06, 2000, 08:53pm
I just installed TTX GP7/30 in thes e locomotives. Works just
great.
Re: Decoder for Proto 2000 SD60
Posted by Tony Bolthouse on November 07, 2000, 07:57pm
John: Check out "Locos & Current Specials" on Tony's site
where he recommends the TTX/GP7/30.
Re: Decoder for Proto 2000 SD60
Posted by John Lindemulder on November 07, 2000, 10:02pm
Thanks, Tony and Jacques! I just placed an order for the TTX
GP7 decoders. I will let you how they worked out.
CMX Track Cleaner
Posted by BSauls on November 04, 2000, 10:29pm
When will you be coming out with an N scale track cleaner? I have
a friend who bought 2 HO scale versions and I was so impressed. I
have been waiting patiently to hear news that you are release an N
scale version
Re: CMX Track Cleaner
Posted by Dave on November 05, 2000, 11:50am
You should probably ask this question of Tony at:
info@ttx-dcc.com
Re: Re: CMX Track Cleaner
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on November 05, 2000, 11:29pm
Good to see others are looking for N-scale CMX. I asked Tony
a couple of months ago and he told me its "in the works".
Re: Re: Re: CMX Track Cleaner
Posted by Alan Larsson on November 13, 2000, 12:15pm
I know it may be a loss to Tony, and he might not like me to post
this here, but Aztec is doing a liquid filled N scale cleaning car.
They have units out in the field for beta testing, and the final car
should be released within 1-2 months, if not sooner.
The comments I have heard on it are very positive
How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by Michael Wright on November 04, 2000, 12:45pm
Hello gang, I have been waiting for DCC that I could afford. I
didn't care much for the MRC sysytem, is the Atlas system any
better ? Is it expandable and what about handheld controllers ?
Thanks
Michael Wright
Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by Bob Miller on November 04, 2000, 04:03pm
Can't help you much as I use NCE. There is a story circulating
on another forum that inside the case it says made in China, even
though Lenz is supposedly making it.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

You might go out to the Atlas forum to see the responses there.
They have their DCC guru answering questions as they come up
on the forum
Bob Miller
Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by DonV on November 08, 2000, 11:38am
It looks like a good starter system that will probably work well
for many thousands with a small layout. Competition for MRC.
Atlas ideas seem to be sound and somewhat less system limited
than MRC.
However, take a look at the Dual Mode Decoder (DMD). Its
'dual mode' can be switched only when you lift off the loco shell
and move a jumper plug! They don't tell you that part in the
adds. [But it can be set to work on DCC and automatically
switch to 'limp mode' DC operation like many other decoders.]
Not having a hand-held remote also keeps the complexity and
entry level price down. For many out-of-the-box users, a handheld
throttle is not necessary. So as with all products, you will
still need to do your shopping carefully to cut through the
advertising hype.
Re: Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by Bob Miller on November 09, 2000, 12:09am
I agree it probably is a decent starter set. However, on the 5
GP38's I have with the dual decoder, I didn't remove the shell,
only the dynamic casting, set the decoder for dcc and that was it.
A lot of the others should so easy.
I agree about the handheld throttles, I have 12 on my NCE based
system, and getting ready to move into wireless throttles in the
next few weeks.
Re: Re: Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by DaveC on November 09, 2000, 11:36am
Bob, Do the Dual Mode decoders require programming by
"Register" mode as implied by the on-line manual? Can they be
programmed with the PR1 or other computer based programmer?
Thanks!
Re: Re: Re: Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by Bob Miller on November 10, 2000, 12:23am
I programmed them all using the programming track. I keep my
computer away from the railroad, so I can't tell you.
Re: Re: Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by John Bevington on November 13, 2000, 11:24am
Bob, Are you going 'wireless' with NCE? Is wireless available
yet from NCE?
Re: Re: Re: Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by Bob Miller on November 13, 2000, 02:40pm
I am going to try NCE wireless and hope it works as well as
advertised. I have some narrow aisles where the lack of cords
plugged in would be a plus.
Tony says 2 or 3 weeks before delivery starts.
Bob
Re: Re: Re: Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by Marc Starmans on November 15, 2000, 11:53am
Just for your information, the Atlas system is here in Europe
sold as a Lenz system and is reasonable symple to expand by all
the other components of the Lenz system
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by Jason on November 19, 2000, 05:27pm
The user manuals for the Atlas Master system are available for
download in pdf format from the atlas website.
Re: How good is Atlas DCC
Posted by Adrian Zeffert on November 23, 2000, 01:49am
Hi:
Just got Atlas Master Duo Pack.
Atlas will work with up to 5 additional XpressNet compatible
handhelds. I have just asked Tony what is availablefrom NCE
etc.
Looks like an excellent small N layout system. With Lenz
penchant for upgrading technology I am sure that additional
advanced features will be advertised by Atlas, but slowly.
Adrian
Note Atlas bulletin on Consisting with the Master system
Riv. Big Boy
Posted by Wayne McFarlane on November 04, 2000, 10:44am
I have a Riv. Big Boy and I woul like to install a Digitrax decoder.
If anyone has installed one, would you please advise me on the
procedure. Thanks.
Walthers FM H10 switcher decoder install
Posted by Mel Chase on November 02, 2000, 09:24pm
Has anyone installed a decoder in a Walthers Fairbanks-Morse H10/
12-44 Diesel Switch Engine. Would appreciate any advice or
directions. Thanks
Re: Walthers FM H10 switcher decoder install
Posted by Roger Robar on November 04, 2000, 08:47am
I do not have the Walthers FM H10 swither model but recently
installed the Lenz LE077XF decoder in the Walthers SW-1 with
great results. This 1/2 amp decoder is small, I mounted mine on
top of the rear gear tower, had plenty of room and it swivels
with truck movement. No decoder in cab windows any more.
Make sure you check your model amp rating. Roger
Re: Walthers FM H10 switcher decoder install
Posted by Dave on November 04, 2000, 05:59pm
Mel, I have installed a Digitrax DH121 in Walthers H10-44 with
great results. One brush on the motor is connected to the frame
but since the power from the rails is isolated from the frame
through the light/connection pc board, there is no short! Do
check for shorts as usual after install and before putting on the
track.
Do not use the Lenz 077 decoder as it is rated at 500 MA max
and the H10-44 (Walthers/Roco) draws about 800 MA unloaded
and 1.3 amps shorted!!!! I'm sure you can use either the Lenz
103 series decoder or the NCE D-102. I can't remember if I had
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 97

98
to replace the light bulbs or not. If you need more, let me know
and I will remove the shell and find out.
Re: Re: Walthers FM H10 switcher decoder install
Posted by Mel Chase on November 04, 2000, 07:49pm
Dave & Roger: Thanks for the quick and informative response. I
will attempt surgery shortly.
DCC install on Kato SD40
Posted by Arman Habegger on November 02, 2000, 08:27am
I am hoping to install decoder on HO Kato SD40--bought in 1994
or so. Motor is insulated from frame, but there is very limited space
for decoder because of weight on top of circuit/light board. Are
there modelers out there who have done this, perhaps by deleting
the top weight and replacing with decoder? Advice appreciated!
Re: DCC install on Kato SD40
Posted by Bob Miller on November 02, 2000, 08:30am
I have done 5 of the Kato SD40's, I used an NCE decoder that
hardwired to the motor and board. I removed the rear weight to
gain height and if I remember correctly substituted a smaller
weight. However, the loss of the weight doesn't affect pulling
capabilities that much. I do run two powered units on all freight
trains. It is still a tight fit. Since I did them, there have been a
couple of much smaller decoders from Lenz, NCE and Digitrax
that might work better.
Switch-It
Posted by Frank Russell on October 27, 2000, 04:39pm
Does anyone have any experience with using the Switch-It device
for controlling turnouts in a DCC system? I have just installed one
and it appears to work great, but doesn't using multiple numbers of
these eventually use up all of the power output in the DCC system.
Any experienced users out there?
Chief dilema
Posted by Gustavo Villa on October 26, 2000, 03:24pm
Hello guys:
I own a MRC DCC system and I want to buy a new one with all the
features. My first choice is Digitrax Chief, compact throttle,
loconet, transponding and the new addition of the DT300/400 are
the
main arguments. The problem is upgrade possibilities, NCE has
their
EPRON replace chip, Intellibox can download new version of the
software via internet, How can I upgrade a Chief? sooner or later
the
DCS100 command station will be obsolete and I don't want to buy a
completely new command station. It's the loconet the answer?
Thank you very much for your help.
Gustavo Villa
B&O F3's
Posted by Frank Russell on October 23, 2000, 04:10pm
I have two Stewart Hobbies F3A's painted in B&O colors. One is
an F3 Phase II High Fans version and the other is an F3 Phase IV
(single headlight). I am trying to find out what would be prototypically
correct numbers for these diesels. They currently have no road
numbers on them. Can anyone help??
Re: B&O F3's
Posted by Joe Binish on October 31, 2000, 11:09am
It depends, The B&O renumbered motive power in 1956 to
eliminate some reetired steam #s and make everything more
'logical'(HAH). Check out the August 1995 MR for a paint shop
article on the F units, but be aware that the sill stripe is grey, not
dulux gold. I can look at mine if you contact me at
joebinish@aol.com
Re: B&O F3's
Posted by Rich Strebendt on February 19, 2001, 10:20pm
Just came across your question. If you are still seeking numbers,
drop me an email (rstrebendt@lucent.com) and I will check my
reference material from the B&O RR Historical Society. What
era are you modelling (pre 1956 or post 1956)?
White N-scale LEDs
Posted by Bill Ager on October 13, 2000, 03:31pm
Kato is producing N-scale locos with white LEDs. Are any N-scale
decoders going to be available with white LEDs? What about white
LED decoders for Atlas N-scale locos? Can existing Digitrax
decoders be converted to white LEDs?
Re: White N-scale LEDs
Posted by Don Vollrath on October 16, 2000, 11:32am
You can replace the standard LED with a white one. Chicago
Miniature Lamp p/n CMD204UWC (T1 size, 2mm dia). These
are $3.00 each in the Digikey catalog, section O.
www.digikey.com
I've done this on several HO locos with good results. Use an
820 ohm resistor in series to replace an incandescent type lamp.
DonV
Value or Find Model Train Items at Auction
Posted by John on October 13, 2000, 02:00pm
Price guide, http://www.antiquecast.com , allows searches of recent
auction results. Super search lists sale items at several auction sites.
Pictures are often available. Concise searches are best with the 3
most characteristic terms. For ready reference this site is worth a
bookmark.
computer control
Posted by Ed on October 10, 2000, 05:19pm
Has anyone used Kam Industries software with Digitrax DCS100
to run trains?
Thank-You, Ed
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

CV19 design flaw
Posted by Jean Piquette on October 07, 2000, 11:10am
Hi everyone,
I've discovered what I think is a design flaw in the way Digitrax
does its advanced consisting in its FX decoders. I'm wondering
whether other brands have the same problem.
If you use OPS mode programming to poke a Digitrax decoder's
(hex) address into its own CV19 (effectively consisting it with
itself), OPS mode programming then goes brain dead, and will not
work on the decoder. The only way to correct it is to lug the loco
over to the programming track and use another programming
method (such as page programming) to reset CV19 to zero.
Does this happen with other brands, or is the problem unique to
Digitrax?
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: CV19 design flaw
Posted by Jean Piquette on October 17, 2000, 04:16pm
Hi everyone,
Hey, folks. It's been 10 days since I posted the first message on
this issue. Doesn't anyone own a non-Digitrax decoder that
they're willing to try this test on and report the results?
Sincerely,
Jean
Proto2000 PA
Posted by Joe Regina on October 04, 2000, 03:43pm
Is the Lenz 104XF decoder a good match for the Proto 2000 PA
considering its high stall current?
Any suggestions or experiences with decoders for this locomotive?
Re: Proto2000 PA
Posted by Norman Beveridge on October 04, 2000, 04:36pm
Joe,
My PA's have NCE D102 decoders. They perform quite well
using these decoders, and I have had no problems at all.
Norman
Re: Re: Proto2000 PA
Posted by Leonard Stern on October 04, 2000, 05:07pm
I used a digitrax DH83FX which is a 2 amp (peak 4 amps).
Some time ago Tony from TTX had a good summary write up
on these locos with the potential problem of back EMF. The
lower amp decoders will work but with no reserve if the motor
puts out excess amps. Regards. Leonard Stern,
printmore1@aol.com
Athearn GP-30's
Posted by Railking1a@AOL.com on September 30, 2000, 10:32am
I am searching for Athearn GP-30's in Santa Fe and Union Pacific
Roads. Willing to pay REASONABLE prices, for good to great
quality stock. Must also have chassis and trucks: bad/ no
motor...ok. Missing handrails... ok. Contact me at my e-mail
address. This will complete my list for this particular era that I'm
modeling. Thank You.
Re: Athearn GP-30's
Posted by Larry Mowery on October 10, 2000, 11:25pm
I believe I read somewhere that the current Bachmann GP-30's
are a remake of the original Athearn GP-30's. Have you looked
at these?
Re: Re: Athearn GP-30's
Posted by Dave on October 11, 2000, 10:33am
Sorry Larry, but the Bachmann GP30 is in no way a remake of
the Athearn GP30!!! The Athearn GP30 had so many errors
with the cab roof and dynamic brake fairings, it got tremendous
complaints and was taken off the market in short order! The
Bachmann Spectrum GP30 is however a very good rendention
and is very close to scale. I understand the Bachmann is an
improvement of the original Lionel GP30 which wasn't too bad
for it's time. The dies for the Athearn GP30 were reworked into
the GP35 and is still in production.
Re: Re: Re: Athearn GP-30's
Posted by Bob Miller on October 11, 2000, 02:20pm
it is correct that the Bachmann came off the die work of the
Lionel GP30. I have three on my ATSF that were mounted on
Kato GP35 chassis before P2K honored us with their GP30's. I
have done a few of these painting them for the warbonnet blue
and yellow.
Re: Athearn GP-30's
Posted by Jack Merkel on October 30, 2000, 09:35am
I have 2 Athearn GP-30's in Santa Fe warbonnet (blue/yellow)
paint scheme that I am willing to part with. One is in perfect
condition and the other has a broken chassis but the shell and
motor are fine. Both have Kadee couplers.
Re: Re: Athearn GP-30's
Posted by Dave on October 30, 2000, 10:40am
I've heard that the Athearn GP35 chassis is the same chassis.
Re: Re: Athearn GP-30's
Posted by Adam Fisher on January 23, 2004, 09:12am
I am willing to buy them if he has not offered yet, ame a price
and i will see, alos pictures would be nice. My email is
apfisher@ptd.net
Thanks,
Adam
Coupler conversion for Con-Cor
Posted by Dan on September 28, 2000, 05:03pm
I model in N-scale, and have a great old Con-Cor 4-6-4 Pacific. I
have just switched to DCC control, but before I spend the money to
put in a decoder, I'd first like to dump the Rapido coupler and go to
Kadee (or Micro now). Anyone know which conversion works
with this? (The conversion kits the stores all sell don't mention the
Con-Cor 4-6-4 Pacific.) Thanks.
Re: Coupler conversion for Con-Cor
Posted by JCS on September 29, 2000, 01:26pm
I have one of those. I'll have to look at it but I think I used the
Kato coupler. It just twists in the the pocket vacated by the
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 99

100
Rapido coupler. It will mate with MT but will not de-couple over
a magnet. Post here what decoder you use and how the
installation goes. I am considering putting one in mine.
Re: Re: Coupler conversion for Con-Cor
Posted by Bill Nielsen on October 04, 2000, 07:57pm
If memory serves, the Con-Cor "N" Pacifics were made by
Rivarossi and are essentially the same as the earlier (than the
Con-Cor) Atlas "N" Pacifics, so the Micro Trains conversion
listed for the Atlas Pacific should work.
Heritage 0-8-0 Bulb Installation
Posted by Phil Adams on September 28, 2000, 08:13am
Received the new 0-8-0 last night. Was wondering if anyone had
followed Proto's procedures in replacing light bulbs for DCC use.
How were the installation instructions compared to actually doing
the bulb replacement? Please advise, Thanks
Re: Heritage 0-8-0 Bulb Installation
Posted by Joe Binish on September 28, 2000, 10:58am
Phil, I have done this install for a friend(he cuts my trees, I
install decoders and paint) and the P2K directions work fine,
however I soldered the headlamp instead of using their hoky
clips.
Good luck
Re: Re: Heritage 0-8-0 Bulb Installation
Posted by Phil Adams on September 28, 2000, 11:39am
Joe, could you call me 410 843 1175. I would like to talk with
you about this. Thanks, Phil
an interesting decoder problem
Posted by Bob Miller on September 25, 2000, 06:45pm
Got a good one for you dcc guys. I have an Atlas GP40, Lenz 03
decoder installed. I am NCE. programmed it on the programming
track, entered number 2964 instead of 2963. Didn't catch it. Few
days later, tried to start it with the cab04 throttle, would not respond
to 2963. Tried another throttle, same thing. Put it on the programming
track, found I had it set for 2964, punched in 2963 and
finished programming. CAb04 still couldn't find it as 2963 but did
as 2964. Programmed it again, still is clinging to 2964. I have never
had a problem changing a long address before. anyone have a
thought? I could renumber the diesel, but Santa Fe had only one
GP40 (from TPW) and it was 2963.
Bob Miller
Proto 2000 GP30
Posted by Chuck Snyder on September 25, 2000, 11:12am
I'm having a problem with a new PP 2000 GP30. It runs faster in
one direction than the other which makes slow speed switching a
problem. Is there any way to equalize forward/backward speed
through programming? I have an NCE system.Thanks for any
suggestions.
Chuck
Digitrax DH121 on System One
Posted by Dale Gloer on September 25, 2000, 10:32am
I have a problem with one of my DH121 decoders. I tried to set up
an advanced consist on a Ssytem One with to locos equipped with
DH121s. Both appeared to accept the programming OK and one ran
OK, but the other acted very strangely. As soon as the consist was
addressed, the headlight started to flash at about 5 flashes per
second and the engine moved in very slow jerky jumps. As soon as
the consist was cleared, operation returned to normal. This decoders
works correctly on my Chief system in advanced consist mode.
Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Dale.
PS. I have contacted Digitrax but no answer yet.
Re: Digitrax DH121 on System One
Posted by Dale Gloer on September 27, 2000, 07:28am
I will answer my own question. A response from Digitrax
indicates that DH121 decoders at revision 21 (CV07=21) do not
operate correctly with System One advanced consisting. They
offered to replace my decoder.
Dale.
Proto 2000 GP7 Decoder Issues
Posted by Tom von Recklinghausen on September 23, 2000, 11:41pm
I have just recently purchased 2 plug in decoders for my proto 2000
GP7's To my suprise, I have an overheating problem. I have spoke
w/ Tony's and they simply say to return them to NCE. I was just
wondering if anyone else had similar difficulties???
Re: Proto 2000 GP7 Decoder Issues
Posted by Bob Miller on September 24, 2000, 12:09am
I have 7 or 8 P2K geeps with that decoder, and have not had a
problem yet. Most were purchased and installed late last year,
first of this year. Hopefully you have a freak thing.
Bob Miller
Re: Proto 2000 GP7 Decoder Issues
Posted by Tom Bailey on September 26, 2000, 10:58pm
I just put a brand new decoder last weekend and had the same
problem. I thought it was my engine, so I replaced with a
decoder I had bought about a year ago and there was no
problem. I also have another GP7 and GP30 with the same
decoders without any problems. Seems to me that they've got a
recent run of decoders that has some electronics problems. Have
you talked to Jim at Northcoast. He may be unaware of this
problems. His e-mail is on the web page.
Re: Proto 2000 GP7 Decoder Issues
Posted by Tom Bailey on September 26, 2000, 10:58pm
I just put in a brand new decoder last weekend and had the same
problem. I thought it was my engine, so I replaced with a
decoder I had bought about a year ago, and there were no
problems. I have another GP7 and GP30 with the same decoders
without any problems. Seems to me that they've had a recent run
of decoders that have some electronics problems. Have you
talked to Jim at Northcoast. He may be unaware of this problem.
His e-mail is on the web page.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Proto 2000 GP7 Decoder Issues
Posted by Tom Bailey on September 26, 2000, 10:58pm
I just put in a brand new decoder last weekend and had the same
problem. I thought it was my engine, so I replaced it with a
decoder I bought about a year ago. There were no problems with
the replacement decoder. I have another GP7 and a GP30 with
the same decoders and they don't have any problems.
Seems to me that they've had a recent run of decoders that have
some electronics problems that get hot. Have you talked to Jim at
Northcoast. He may be unaware of this problem. His e-mail is
on the web page.
Proto 1000 RDC
Posted by Paul Collins on September 22, 2000, 07:57pm
Has anyone installed a decoder in the new LL RDC's ? Is it
difficult?
Is the Lenz LEO80XS a good choice?
Any advice would be welcome. I'm new to DCC. I have a NCE
System. Thanks.
Re: Proto 1000 RDC
Posted by Bill Koch on October 21, 2000, 03:22pm
What DCC function does the P1 thru P8 on printed circuit board
correspond to? How do you cut the PC board as indicated by
"X"? I assume the decoder wires are soldered to the "P" pads. I
plan to install the Digitrak DH121 decoder. There are 9 wires on
the decoder plug. There are only 7 "P" pads on the PC board.
Need help!
Re: Re: Proto 1000 RDC
Posted by Dave on October 23, 2000, 12:14pm
P1 thru P8 should correspond to Pin 1 thru Pin 8 of the NMRA
medium connector. Relate the pins to the wire colors on your
decoder and connect to like pads. The DH121 only uses 7 wires,
the other two are not used. This same wire harness is used on
other decoders that use the green and purple wires for extra
functions, F2 & F3. I think the Lenz decoder and/or the Digitrax
decoders will work fine as will NCE, and probably others. You
may have to chance the light bulbs to 14 volt or wire series
resistors. Check instructions or call Lifelike for specifics on bulb
voltages.
Re: Re: Re: Proto 1000 RDC
Posted by Bill Koch on October 25, 2000, 02:46pm
Thank you Dave! I went to the NMRA web site... DCC
Standard for the Connection # (P) corresponding to the color
harness. Installed the Digitrak DH121 harness with approx. 3
inches of wire. Cut the three traces with a hobby knife (checked
continuity before and after cutting to be sure the trace was cut).
Didn't check the lights but looking at the board decided it would
be OK to connect the light wires. The decoder fits very well into
the roof of the body. I just left the coder rest on the PC board.
Changed the address on the programming track. Too bad Lifelike
doesn't include info to install a decoder. Thanks.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Proto 1000 RDC
Posted by DonV on October 26, 2000, 09:25am
A moto-tool cut-off wheel works much faster and easier than a
hobby knife to cut pcb traces. Just touch it with the wheel and its
gone! No wrestling for leverage or risk of cutting your fingers
as there is with the knife. Wear safety glasses. Put a piece of
paper under the pcb as a dust shield for mechanisms below. Use
a soft brush to remove debris from the pcb when done.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Proto 1000 RDC
Posted by Bill Koch on October 27, 2000, 05:57pm
Thanks. Why didn't I think of that?
Lenz Decoders
Posted by Jack White on September 21, 2000, 09:44am
I have Lenz LE077 decoders installed in 2 Bachmann N Gauge 4-8-
4's. One runs super, the other is very slow. Could this be a defective
decoder?
NCE Throttles
Posted by Jack White on September 21, 2000, 09:40am
I have a NCE DCC system. A friend has a System One system by
Wangrow. Are these throttles interchangable?
Re: NCE Throttles
Posted by DonV on September 21, 2000, 11:56am
They are essentialy identical. You can plug either throttle into
either system. Use 'em both when your friend comes over. [But
first read the manual to set one of them at a different address.]
Re: Re: NCE Throttles
Posted by Jack White on September 21, 2000, 04:07pm
Thanks Don. I appreciate. While I'm an old modeler, I'm a new
DCC user. I do like it and wonder why anyone would use DC.
NCE Customer Support
Posted by Steve Z. on September 19, 2000, 09:28am
I want to let everyone know about the TERRIFIC customer support
of NCE. Last Tuesday evening we had a catastrophic system failure
during a large operating session (of course). A power booster (not
NCE) failed taking out 2 NCE PH Pros in the process. At NCE's
request we sent all 3 units to them last Wednesday so they could do
an autopsy.
Well, they not only repaired their own units - they fixed their
competitor's power booster as well (after all, they said, they had the
box open to figure out exactly what had happened) !!!! We received
all 3 units back on Saturday in perfect working order.
Customer Service does not get better than that.
Re: NCE Customer Support
Posted by Bob Miller on September 19, 2000, 10:01am
That really isn't a surprise. I have had great service from NCE
also, ranging from repair work on a timely manner to time spent
on the telephone talking me through a problem or question.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 101

102
Re: NCE Customer Support
Posted by Dave Chance on September 19, 2000, 06:07pm
I will agree with you 100% plus! I own a Digitrax Chief but I
have a dozen or so NCE decoders. Last week I moved my PR1
programmer to a notebook for portability. As luck would have it,
the PR1 misbehaved and caused an apparent loss of CV settings
in two NCE decoders that would not reprogram. An email to Jim
Scorse got a response in a couple of hours with a polite
suggestion of what I should do and it was exactly what I needed.
Problem solved and both decoders running fine. Thanks to Jim
Scorse of NCE.
Dave Chance
Rivarossi 4-8-4 Opinions
Posted by Don on September 12, 2000, 09:53am
Do the readers of this list have any opinions on the quality of the
current production model of the Rivarossi 4-8-4 FEF loco? How do
they run? Is the power pick-up adequate? Do the drivers fall off the
axles? Is it a model worth having? Thanks.
North Coast Throttle
Posted by Chuck Snyder on September 11, 2000, 12:27pm
Good morning. I have two questions regarding the NCE throttle. I
love the fast clock but wonder if there is a shortcut way of starting
and stopping it. It takes 4 key presses now.
Part II - It appears to me the RECALL key will only cycle back and
forth between 2 engines. I thought I read once upon a time that you
could load it up to cycle through a number of engines, butI can't
figure out how.
Thanks,
Chuck
Re: North Coast Throttle
Posted by DonV on September 12, 2000, 10:04am
This is one of the Cab set-up parameters and can be adjusted
from 2 to 6. Factory default is 2. See your Ph-Pro manual, page
74. You can view it on line at http://www.tttrains.com/northcoast/
powerhousemanual.pdf.
Re: Re: North Coast Throttle
Posted by Chuck Snyder on September 18, 2000, 10:25am
DonV,
Thanks for the response. It was just what I was looking for.
Regards,
Chuck
switch machines
Posted by Ron on September 02, 2000, 08:00pm
Could someone tell me if I can use slow motion switch machines
with Peco switches. The switches have a spring throw and I wonder
if the spring is to strong for the switch machine. Thanks
Re: switch machines
Posted by Thomas Gleave on September 02, 2000, 10:13pm
Ron,
Turn switch upside down and remove the clip. This will make
the points move freely.
You may even be able to do it from the top.
This will not hurt the turnout at all.
Hope this helps you.
Re: Re: switch machines
Posted by Dennis Smerz on September 04, 2000, 07:29am
Ron,
To further Thomas' instructions, be sure to remove the small
spring wire and plastic spring wire retainer box held by the metal
retainer clip. I have over 40 Peco turnouts operated by Tortiose
slow motion switch machines of which I had to remove the three
components: spring, spring box and clip. They all work just fine.
Peco turnouts and Tortiose switch machines all bought from
Tony's.
Dennis
Re: switch machines
Posted by Steve Z. on September 05, 2000, 09:21am
Simply remove the spring. Switch will move freely.
DH142 decoders
Posted by DJRock on September 01, 2000, 12:39am
I have just tried the new DH142 decoders. The back EMF works
just fine but I can't get them to programfor reverse running or do
advanced consisting! Anybody else out there having any problems
with these decoders?
Peco Wiring
Posted by Mike Acken on August 27, 2000, 01:36pm
We are starting our last - and largest - layout and will purchase an
NCE system from Tony. As info, wiring is our least favorite aspect
of the hobby.
My question is the Peco Code HO -75 electrofrog switches we will
use.
Any recommendations to insure:
1. No shorts from metal wheels
2. Insure good current through the points (I know Pecos are good,
but want no failures)- some of the switches will be powered others
manual.
3. Recommendations on switch power for ease of wiring and to
support contral panel and trackside signal indications.
Thanks.
Re: Peco Wiring
Posted by Bill Gaver on August 29, 2000, 02:46pm
See Allan Gartner's:
www.wiringfordcc.com
and a team effort at
greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a.tcl?
topic=Wiring%20for%20DCC
Note: greenspun.com address is the
two lines above w/o spaces.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Peco Wiring
Posted by Bill Gaver on August 29, 2000, 02:54pm
Delete final two lines of my previous message.
Re: Peco Wiring
Posted by ed on September 02, 2000, 06:49pm
Also see August 2000 Model Railroader magazine. They had a
good article addressing DCC and turnouts.
Re: Re: Peco Wiring
Posted by Mike Acken on September 03, 2000, 12:55pm
Thanks for the recommendation on the Gartner site at
'wiringfordcc'
It may well be my ancient (4yrs)computer, but could not locate
it. Also tried wiring4dcc.
Has anyone printed it out. I'd gladly cover the cost to get it
copied/mailed etc.
Mike Acken
Re: Re: Re: Peco Wiring
Posted by Bill Gaver on September 03, 2000, 07:48pm
Mike:
Gartner's site back on line. Try
www.wiringfordcc.com
Re: Peco Wiring
Posted by fred dellaiacono on September 05, 2000, 12:28pm
I have been using peco electro frog for more than ten years with
no problems. i have over 70 remote located and actuated by a
simple 12 volt ac radio shack transformer.
i have not been successful with the peco aux contacts. i have
goneto a micro switch actuated by the peco machine or where
possible by the arm of the switch itself(above table) and hid the
mini switch with scenery.this has been effective and reliable
Re: Peco Wiring
Posted by ed on September 07, 2000, 08:18pm
There is a good article in Sept 2000 Model Railroader that
discusses Micro Engineering turnouts. The article also applies to
peco other makes of switches. Also you should read "The
Digitrax Big Book of DCC" Even though it uses Digitrax
products as examples, it does a good job of explaining DCC. By
the way Atlas Custom-Line turnouts are already "DCC Friendly"
with insolated metal frogs. Good luck on the layout
ed
GP-40 Shell removal
Posted by Dick Foster on August 18, 2000, 03:04pm
I don't want to force anything - How do you get the shell off the
Atlas GP-40. I have removed the couplers but am looking for the
proper procedure to get to the DCC board. Thansk in advance
Re: GP-40 Shell removal
Posted by Arman Habegger on August 19, 2000, 12:10pm
I had the same question a couple weeks ago. Take off the
handrails with a tweezers or fingers. The prongs come out of the
holes relatively easily. Then I took hold of the shell in one hand,
the chassis in the other and moved side to side rather gingerly
until the shell finally seemed to release. They will come off.
Good luck!
rivarossi passenger cars
Posted by bill minkel on August 16, 2000, 09:52pm
how can i dissassemble them to add lights and paint interior?
Re: rivarossi passenger cars
Posted by Tony on August 16, 2000, 10:28pm
Bill - It's quite easy. Turn the car upside down. There are three
sets of "hooks", one set near each end and one set in the middle.
Start at one end of ther car and lightly force the hooks on
opposite sides toward the middle of the car using two small
screw drivers. Pull the roof off as you go from one end of the
car to the other. The roof and the windows are an integral piece
with the windows fitting down inside the body of the car. The
roof should pop right off.
Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by Roger Robar on August 07, 2000, 06:33pm
Sorry, I meant to say Athearn 2-8-2, not 2-8-0. Roger
Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by Roger Robar on August 06, 2000, 06:40pm
I suggest you go back to some old posts about the Genesis Mikado
starting from 12.03.1999 to 12.13.1999. These posts all contain
good info with some problems with the Athearn 2-8-0. One of
which states the model is way out of balance and ways to help
correct it. The first run models had very poor soldered wire
connections. Roger Robar
Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by Richard on August 08, 2000, 11:11am
Thanks for the clue on the previous postings. From them I see I
should probably go to wipers on the tender. Seems a shame that
a new engine that looks nice has to have this sort of modification
done to make it run as well as it looks. Thanks all.
Re: Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by ed bradbury on August 13, 2000, 10:35am
I still would not modify the tender yet. Wipers in the tender will
require soldering to the "tail". To do this some of the tail's outter
covering will have to be removed. Actually all of the covering
should be removed; the tail is too stiff and effects loco
operation.Or you will have to run additional wires to the engine.
Also note that all of the engine's 8 wheels are picking up power
which should be enough. Is there a loose or broken wire
somewhere? You have not said you talked with Touy; I would
talk to him before modifying. I have been using my loco on my
"layout" and at the clubs modular setup and it runs fine on both
DC or with the Throttle Up sound dscoder. Personally I am
impress with the Athearn Mikado.
ed
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 103

60 deg diamonds
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on July 31, 2000, 09:37pm
Has anyone experienced any difficulties using Tony's PSIII circuit
breakers with PECO 60 degree diamond? Most engines and lighted
coaches cause short circuits which cause the the PSIII to shut down
the power district. Ubits with flywheels coast past the diamond and
start again after the PSIII has cycled. Other die on the diamond.
Any experience, suggestions welcome. THX Bernhard
HO SCALE TRAINS
Posted by bearhnt99@aol.com on July 31, 2000, 08:30pm
I HAVE HO SCALE TRAINS TO SELL MOST ARE IN
ORIGINAL CARTONS & HAVE NEVER BEEN OPENED.
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY THOUGHTS ON WHERE I CAN
GET CURRENT PRICING ON WHAT THESE ITEMS ARE
WORTH ??? OR IF ANY COLLECTORS ARE INTERESTED
YOU CAN E-MAIL ME DIRECT!! THANX
104
Re: HO SCALE TRAINS
Posted by Richard on August 01, 2000, 09:02pm
I would suggest putting them up for aution on E-bay. List them
under the road name and you will get an amazing number of
bidders that will give you whatever the market price will stand.
Sign up for Paypal or one of the other credit card services and
you are ready to do it! Good luck!
GP 30 Light
Posted by Chuck Snyder on July 31, 2000, 10:47am
I just got a new Proto 2000 GP30 from Tony with a decoder. It runs
great and I particularly like the bright directional lights. Problem is
that after one day, the headlight stopped functioning. I wonder if the
wrong type of bulb was installed. I have an identical GP30 but with
a Soundtraxx system. Its lights are VERY dim but at least they
haven't stopped functioning. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Chuck
Re: GP 30 Light
Posted by Bernhard on July 31, 2000, 11:57pm
Talk to Tony
Re: Re: GP 30 Light
Posted by David on August 16, 2000, 05:35pm
The lights that come from LL are very dim. Besides the bulbs the
light channel doesn't help. I ended up putting 3v bulbs directly
up by the lenses.
need motor drive gear for Rivarossi Heisler
Posted by Tom Kroll on July 25, 2000, 09:24am
Where can I find either a replacement drive gear for a Rivarossi
Heisler (the gear that fits on the motor shaft), or a new motor/gear
assembly (part #p.420-021)
lenz-02 consist
Posted by Ryder Ray on July 24, 2000, 04:03pm
I am unable to breakup a consist with my Lenz 02 LH200 handheld.
After deleting the first unit of the consist the system looses the
consist # and any loco's with it. I have followed the manual step by
step which is simple but it does not go the the MU # after removing
the first loco. Any ideas?
DCC Install KATO GP35
Posted by DAN on July 23, 2000, 12:12am
Im trying to install a DH121 in an older KATO GP35 need step by
step instructions as in what wire goes were?
Re: DCC Install KATO GP35
Posted by Mark on August 03, 2000, 02:36pm
http://www.digitrax.com/gp3035ho.htm
DCC install--Atlas GP40
Posted by Arman Habegger on July 17, 2000, 08:13am
Has anyone installed decoder in the new Atlas GP40? I'm trying to
determine how to pull the shell from the chassis without breaking
everything. I have removed the couplers, but the shell doesn't seem
eager to come off. Help appreciated!
Re: DCC install--Atlas GP40
Posted by Bob Miller on July 17, 2000, 08:49am
I found two ways of installing a decoder. One one, the dynamic
brake piece was pulled off (carefully) and a Lenz 03 with the 4"
harness was plugged into the board and the decoder in the cavity
of the dynamic and then the plastic piece was re-installed. On the
second, I pulled the shell off (removing the handrails (very
carefully) and then simply taking the shell off, same decoder
installation, shell back together. You are correct about removing
the couplers first. I found the Atlas very much like removing a
Proto2K or Kato shell.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: DCC install--Atlas GP40
Posted by Bob Miller on July 17, 2000, 11:00am
Follow up, you might contact Atlas to get help in removing the
shell. They have closed their forum down which was a place you
could ask questions, but you can contact their customer service
at
csdept@atlasrr.com for help.
Re: Re: DCC install--Atlas GP40
Posted by Arman Habegger on July 24, 2000, 04:43pm
Bob--thanks for the help--a little jiggling of the shell over a
couple days and it came off. Nice amount of room for the
decoder, too. thanks for the help.
Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by Jake on July 15, 2000, 11:22am
Although this might be a basic question, I have just returned to the
hobby after a decade and need some advice. I have an Athearn
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Genesis Steam Loco 2-8-2 Light Mikado. I have a gapped crossover
set up between two mainlines. The engine does not pick up
current when using the crossover. The engine stops dead at the gap.
Reversing the polarity does not clear the problem.Do I need to
install power pickup in the tender, and if so how is this done? I am
not currently set up for DCC.
Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by richard on July 15, 2000, 01:16pm
Interesting that you are having trouble with this engine. I was
just going to ask a similar question. I got this engine because it
was dcc ready and I am building a new layout that way. Nothing
in any of the reviews I've read mention any operation problems
but I currently would not recommend this model to anyone! I
have several deisel locos that are able to operate fine on my track
full of sawdust and plaster but the new Mikado is nearly
unusable. I have installed the dcc decoder in the tender but when
opening the engine to check on the light changes , I swore that I
would never do that job again. Opening this one is nearly a
nightmare! Does anyone know about the pickup contacts? Is
power to be fed from all wheels or only one pair? This engine
appears to pick up only from one. It stalls at frogs, any speck of
dirt, and when going onto the turntable where there is a slight
rise as the front wheels reach the edge. Any suggestions for
improving this?
Re: Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by Jake on July 15, 2000, 02:06pm
Thanks, Richard. I thought maybe it was just my problem. I
never encountered this before. Just returned from my local
model train store and they were at a loss to explain it. I also
purchased this with the intent of going DCC. I am going to try a
few things and see if I get anywhere.
Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by DonV on July 20, 2000, 02:23pm
Poor electrical pick-up has always been an issue with all brands
of model steam locos, and it still is. The manufacturers have
again overlooked that problem with their re-tooled new releases.
They look great, but still run poorly. Yes, you will probably have
to add your own all wheel electrical pick-up to the tender, and/or
fix what is there.
Please do us all a favor by complaining loudly and in writing to
the manufacturer. Remind him that these products are not cheap,
but that they operate that way until the buyer adds repairs to their
inferior design. Ask for warranty engineering re-work assistance
to make improvements. Let them know that he needs to provide
all wheel electrical pick-up on every loco, including the steamers.
Re: Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by Richard on July 20, 2000, 03:48pm
Thanks for the input from DonV. Thought that I was finally
experienced enough to avoid some of this type of problem. I am
building DCC to avoid much of the wiring problems of past
layouts. I finished my working career on telephone company
digital switches and don't want any more "fun" with
corrosion,etc. Wonder why the model railroad media doesn't
mention this so that guys like myself can avoid the products with
trouble built into the design. Is this a problem with all the new
steam on the market or only with the Athearn? At least at this
point I don't have much involving steam and can update my
layout without much trouble. Thanks for the tip anyway and
perhaps that will clue Jake in also.
Re: Re: Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by ed on July 30, 2000, 03:33pm
I do not understand your complaint. Is the loco or the wheels
dirty? I have The Athearn 2-8-2 and have installed a Throttle up
sound DCC dacoder. The loco has run great on both DC and
after decoder installation.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by richard on August 01, 2000, 08:48pm
Hi Ed
Sorry about the slow response. Been spending a lot of time
looking at the engine! No dirty wheels or track this time. Seems
the normal things are okay but when running slow thru an
insulated frog (Atlas Mark III) or as the engine goes onto my
turntable where there is a slight bump or lifting of the drivers, I
lose power. I have determined that this engine does pick up
power from more than one set of drivers in some fashion. To
verify this I taped a 3/4" piece of paper across the track to try to
find which were feeding power and all drivers seem to do so. I
am wondering how the power is fed from one set of drivers to
the others or the motor. Is it possible the siderods do this? If I
barely tickle the drivers or rods it will often pick up power again.
I,m not finding an obvious set of contacts. Anybody torn one
down to know for sure how power is fed?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by Ed on August 03, 2000, 07:17pm
Have you looked at Model Railroader review in Dec 1999 issue
and the instruction sheet? The covering on the wire "pigtail"
between the loco & tender is too stiff. Per Tony's suggestion I
verrrry carefully cut it off with sissors:don't cut any wires. This
improved operation. The loco uses a split insulated frame with
center insulated wheels simular to Life Like,Right frame half
picks up power from right drivers, left half the left drivers.
Wires fed power back to "pigtail" and circuit board feds power
back thru pigtail to motor & headlight. The motor is isolated
from frame so that a DCC decoder can be plug into pigtail after
removing plug from the circuit board. Hope this helps.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pic
Posted by David on August 16, 2000, 05:32pm
Have a friend who has one of these locos. Ended up sending it
back to Athern twice before figuring out the problem himself.
There was a broken wire inside the shrink tubing running to the
tender.
Re: Re: Steam Locomotive Power Pickup
Posted by Gerry on October 05, 2000, 05:36pm
This may be a little late but take a look at http://www.tac.com.au/
~gerrymmr/Pickups/Pickups.html
It might be of help.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 105

Other Location For Good DCC Info
Posted by Dennis Smerz on July 14, 2000, 12:06am
For those of you who are Digitrax users, a very good web location
is at http://www.egroups.com/message/digitrax/. You have to take a
few minutes and sign in to become a discussion member for the
digitrax "group". I find it a good companion with TTX's bulletin
board, especially if you are Digitrax based.
Enjoy and remember "Gardening is a Hobby,....Model Railroading
is a Passion!"
Walthers SW-1 Decoder Installation
Posted by Mike T. on July 12, 2000, 10:56pm
I would like to install a decoder in the Walthers SW-1 but do not
know how to determine which wires to cut to install the decoder. I
see a simple circuit board and the wires from the trucks. Not sure
how to go from there! I would appreciate any help to get me started.
Thanks
106
Re: Walthers SW-1 Decoder Installation
Posted by joe binish on July 13, 2000, 03:44pm
I used a DZ-121 and removed the factory circuit board. With a
little filing, drilling and soldering it works out fine. I will see if I
have a photo to send
Turn out Shorts Revised
Posted by Chris Dante on July 10, 2000, 07:53am
Ignore the first message, I made a mistake.
Below is the correct message:
My layout has code 70 shinohara track, powered by a Lenz 01
system. The turn outs are powered by tortoise machines with a wire
solderd to the frog and connected to one of the SPDT terminals on
the tortoise.
If I operate a loco by it self on the track everything is ok. When I
add Spectrum heavyweight passenger cars w/built in lighting I get a
short entering the turn out.
Can you give me any help or do you need more info?
Re: Turn out Shorts Revised
Posted by Bob Miller on July 10, 2000, 08:20am
Chris:
question, does the short happen when the engine first hits the
points, or does the engine pass through okay and the short
happens when the wheel sets of the first passenger car hits the
points? Does it happen with any of the cars, or certain ones, or
have you tried removing the first car to see if the short occurs
without that car being in the consist?
Bob Miller
Re: Turn out Shorts Revised
Posted by Dave Chance on July 10, 2000, 08:26am
Chris, check the "Wiring for DCC" site at: <
www.wiringfordcc.com/ >
Look for page on DCC Friendly Turnouts. That page has proven
wiring information and diagrams for Shinohara as well as many
other "DCC Unfriendly & Friendly" turnouts.
Dave
Re: Turn out Shorts Revised
Posted by DonV on July 10, 2000, 09:09am
The Spectrum 3 axle truck w/ metal wheels is causing part of the
problem. All wheels and axles on one side of an electrical pickup
truck are energized at the through-rail potential. The open
point rail of the turnout is powered at the opposite polarity. As
the long truck rolls through the narrow gap the back of one
wheel touches the open point rail making electrical contact. Thus
you get a short-circuit.
Note that this is NOT just a DCC problem, as the short circuit
will occur regardless of what kind of rail power system you use.
But using DCC friendly turnouts, or making them DCC friendly,
will resolve the issue. Fixing a Shinohara is a lot of work. The
light bulb trick works and is easiest to implement. [Gap isolate
the switch, and put an automotive lamp in series with the power
feed.]
Re: Re: Turn out Shorts Revised
Posted by Bob Miller on July 10, 2000, 09:16am
Chris:
Dave's advise about checking the switch wiring is a good one. I
have several Shinohara switches on my railroad, although I no
longer buy them, and I found shorting problems because of the
way the Tortise moves the points. Mine are now dcc friendly
thanks to those wiring diagrams. However, if your locomotive
(s?) are running through without shorting, and it only happens
with the Spectrum coaches, then I am still a little suspicous about
them.
Bob Miller
turn out shorts
Posted by Chris Dante on July 10, 2000, 07:51am
My layout has code 70 shinohara track, powered by a Lenz 01
system. The turn outs are powered by tortoise machines with a wire
solderd to the points and connected to one of the SPDT terminals on
the tortoise.
If I operate a loco by it self on the track everything is ok. When I
add Spectrum heavyweight passenger cars w/built in lighting I get a
short entering the turn out.
Can you give me any help or do you need more info?
nce consist, FX, power districs, etc.
Posted by Dave on July 09, 2000, 11:02pm
Larry,
I am really working at it but it is about to get the best of me. What
should I do?
My DT is still working great, but then I learned how to read many
years ago!
Dave
nce power districts
Posted by Bob Miller on July 07, 2000, 06:21pm
Well guys, and Norman, I have hit a new glitch this afternoon, too
late to call back east and find anyone. My railroad is divided into
three power districts, each with an NCE PB105. The wiring is not
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

new, my railroad was a solid Dynatrol based railroad, the boosters
simply replaced Dynatrol DPS stations. I started noticing as an
engine moves over the gaps between power district, I get a blinking
light on the booster, a momentary shutdown of that booster, then
everything is okay again. Any ideas ?????
Bob Miller
Re: nce power districts
Posted by Bob Miller on July 07, 2000, 08:18pm
Cancel the SOS, I discovered I must have bumped one of the
boosters and set the normal to auto reverse. Setting it back to
normal caused the problem to go away.
Thanks anyway guys.
Bob
Re: Re: nce power districts
Posted by Norman Beveridge on July 07, 2000, 09:59pm
Bob,
I am glad you found a simple explanation.
I am confident that any railroad wired for Dynatrol will work
with DCC (except maybe Digitrax). Also, any railroad wired for
multiple controls with standard DC block control will work.
Common rail (more correctly, common return) wiring is NOT an
issue for any of these systems except Digitrax.
Re: Re: Re: nce power districts
Posted by Bob Miller on July 07, 2000, 11:47pm
I would like a simple explanation of how I managed to flip that
toggle to auto reverse, since the boosters are stacked on a shelf
under the railroad by the command station. I was really bummed
on that one. The railroad had been running perfectly for about 7
months, then this happened. Even tried another command station
off the over railroad, made no difference. The way I found what
had happened is I flipped the toggle (I'm serious) on the middle
booster to see what would happen and the problem went away.
That is when I really started looking at the boosters and found
the top one with its little toggle on auto reverse also.
Anyway the problem was solved before my Sunday evening
operating session.
nce power districts
Posted by Norman Beveridge on July 08, 2000, 04:03pm
Bob,
I agree that this should not occur. The way the box is constructed,
you have to deliberately flip that switch. I suppose you
could drop something just right, but that is really far fetched. I
am assuming that you had everything in working order
previously, maybe even had operating sessions, and that trains
had run across every power district boundary flawlessly at some
previous time. If this is true, then I am puzzled how the switch
could have been inadvertently changed. But if it is not, maybe it
was like that all along and you just didn't notice??? Still, I would
think that if you set it up that way you would have noticed the
difference in switch positions.
I hope this never happens to you again. I can imagine your
panic. It is a good lesson for all of us. Thanks for sharing it with
us.
Re: nce power districts
Posted by Bob Miller on July 08, 2000, 04:18pm
Norman, I had been having op sessions for last several months.
In fact, I had been testing the tracking of a unit grain train and
had run it across the drop bridge where one power district ends
and next begins, no problem. The boosters are stacked on a shelf
out of the line of fire. Also when it started happening, it was
inconsistent in which booster's light started blinking.
Oh well, valuable lesson. When I told Jim Scorse about it, his
comment is "don't we have fun".
Bob Miller
Re: Re: nce power districts
Posted by Johnnie C, Scott on July 11, 2000, 12:58pm
Bob, do you have a cat?
Re: Re: Re: nce power districts
Posted by Bob Miller on July 11, 2000, 01:09pm
actually we have two cats, both of which have never been
introduced to the wonderful hobby of model railroading. In other
words they never get downstairs. However, they do get on the
garden railroad at times, and one of them, "moose" left a deposit
on a switch.
Re: Re: Re: Re: nce power districts
Posted by Curtis on July 13, 2000, 03:50pm
Hello fellows, I have been following your thread here with much
interest. I am building a N scale layout using the North Coast
system and I have TEN, count them 10 cats! I noticed that when
I put up a table [on which some of the benchwork will go] they
were intantanously on top if it. When I was testing a locomotive
they wanted to bat at it and knock it off the track! I am going to
have to find some anti-cat spray! hehe. Thx and take care.
Curtis
p.s. they even chew wires!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: nce power districts
Posted by Norman Beveridge on July 13, 2000, 04:06pm
Curtis,
If you can, keep the cats out of the RR room 100% of the time.
Not only will they chew wires and swat rolling stock, but the cat
hair that they leave behind wreaks havoc with loco mechanisms
and switch points.
Norman
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: nce power districts
Posted by Johnnie C. Scott on July 14, 2000, 01:27pm
Well, the reason I asked is that it is possible for a cat to throw a
toggle switch. I know, I've seen them do it! I have 5 cats and the
are not allowed in the barn to play with the "electric mice".
128 SS
Posted by Norman Beveridge on July 07, 2000, 05:24pm
Here's another one I can't quickly understand from the books: Must
I set every decoder and/or consist to 128 speed steps individually?
Or does the entire RR change to 14 or 28 or 128 speed steps at the
push of a button?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 107

108
Re: 128 SS
Posted by Dennis Smerz on July 08, 2000, 02:57pm
Norm,
On my Chief setup, I have programed each of my decoders (a
mixture of Digitrax, Lenz, NEC). I just read through my
manuals and unless I've overlooked something (which I've been
known to do)I don't think there is a way to do "default" all to
128 step configuration, accross the board.Maybe someone
enlighten both of us!
Dennis Smerz
(ex-Freindswood,Texas resident of 25 years)
Re: Re: 128 SS
Posted by Norman Beveridge on July 08, 2000, 04:14pm
Dennis,
Thanks for the information. I think you are right. I have checked
several consists, and some seem to be 28 speed steps and some
others seem to be 128. I will go back and make sure they are
ALL 128 by setting each individually.
Somehow I wish you were still in Friendswood. I am in
Pearland. There are several other good modelers and operators
down here, but I hate to lose any.
Uploadable Speed Curves
Posted by Norman Beveridge on July 03, 2000, 05:44pm
Okay, now I am ready to eliminate the "slot trains" by slowing
down the loco top speed. With the NCE decoders, I know I can
program CV67 thru CV94, and take care of it. But when I pick
some really low value for the top speed, such as 50, then the loco
won't start moving until half way up the scale. I tried setting the
start voltage to 99, and it did not help.
Here's what I want: In 28 speed step mode, I want the switching
loco to just start moving on step 1, and to max out at 15 - 20 MPH
at step 28. How do I do it? I also am looking for 35 MPH max for
my local freights, 55 for through trains. Suggestions?
consisting
Posted by Bob Miller on July 03, 2000, 04:16pm
All you NCE gurus or anyone else that knows advance consisting
quirks. I placed a new Kato and the new Atlas in service over the
weekend. Both did fine, headlights worked as they should, but
when I assigned them to an advanced consist, I can't get the
headlights to come on. If I seperate them and call them by engine
number, they work fine.
Any ideas, Norman????
Bob
Re: consisting
Posted by Norman Beveridge on July 03, 2000, 05:37pm
Bob,
Since the headlights work before you set up the consist, the
decoders are responding correctly and the bulbs are good. Let's
try something.
First, make sure the lights are "on" before you set up the consist.
Next, set up the consist, putting one loco as the lead and adding
the other. Now, once the consist is set up, select the consist by
the lead loco number. If the lights are not on, try turning them off
and then back on. Also, if they are directional, try reversing to
make sure you are not looking at the wrong end.
Frequently, after setting up a consist, the cab will indicate that
the lights are on, but they are not. By cycling the lights, the
problem goes away. I don't know why this is, and I don't like it,
but the cycling action fixes the problem.
Re: consisting
Posted by Steve Z. on July 05, 2000, 08:58am
There are 2 ways to refer to a consist with NCE. The first is to
use the consist address, the second is to use the address of the
lead loco. When the consist address is used, functions commands
are sent to that address. Some decoders can be programmed
to respond to functions sent to a consist address, most
can't. Your best bet is to use the address of the lead loco. The
command station knows it is in a consist and will send speed/dir
commands to consist address but function commands to lead
loco address.
Re: Re: consisting
Posted by DonV on July 05, 2000, 09:05am
With NCE the headlights will still respond to the original loco
address number when in a consist. So you can turn the headlight
of the point loco ON and OFF separately from others in the
consist. If all locos in the consist responded to headlight
commands at the consist address then all headlamps would be
turned ON and OFF.
NCE Cab04e
Posted by Norman Beveridge on June 29, 2000, 03:54pm
I have received my five new NCE Cab04e's, and much to my
surprise they start out in yard mode! There is no indication in the
manual about this, and since "0" is the setting for regular operation
and "1" is for yard mode, I had expected that the cab as delivered
would be in regular mode.
How was this a surprise? We set up several cabs with new
addresses, and tried to operate several locos. Before we knew it, we
had unintentionally coupled the locos together and couldn't figure
out how to separate them over a magnet. Silly? Yes, I suppose so,
but when you expect to change directions via a button (either
forward, reverse, or option (which by default is "change direction")),
yet it doesn't help . . . well, you can get some surprising
results when you aren't thinking "yard mode".
I guess this is a good lesson in that we should expect the unexpected,
and should make sure we set up everything as we desire.
How can Control Turntable (Roco) in DCC
Posted by Claudio Botello on June 23, 2000, 01:18pm
Hi All:
Ned to control my ROCO TT in DCC: move the bridge, indexing,
etc.
Any experience, some help.
I saw the artical by Bill Armstrong in LE0130 with Turnstables but
need more specific explanations.
Thanks in advance.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: How can Control Turntable (Roco) in DCC
Posted by DonV on June 28, 2000, 08:40am
If the turntable uses a 12 V dc motor you can always install a
DCC loco decoder to operate it. Permanently wire the wheel
pick-up leads to the DCC track buss. Address it at any easy to
remember loco number (like 100). Operate it from your DCC
hand-held cab unit. There are some sophisticated indexers out
there. Great for automatic operation. But with a significant price
tag. Using a loco decoder yields nifty remote control at low cost.
Re: How can Control Turntable (Roco) in DCC
Posted by D.Smerz on June 28, 2000, 04:11pm
I too wanted to know how I could control my turntable with
DCC. Mine was a HELJAN with a Walhers motor drive. I too
tried a loco decoder. I found two problems in my case: 1) the
Walters drive motor operates at a constant speed not affected by
motor voltage (on or off, only). 2) the gearing inside causes the
"coast" is be inhanced due to the constant motor speed. I had no
advantage using the loco decoder in this application. I removed it
and replaced it with a good DPDT rocker switch. Works for me.
I have six stalls (roundhouse) and 10 slots (open). I just take my
time at judging when to stop! Good Luck.
Athearn Genesis DCC
Posted by Alex M. on June 22, 2000, 03:31pm
Hello All
I have an Athearn Genesis SD75I and in he future way install a
DCC decoder into it. Might any of you be able to E-Mail me with
some tips/instructions/suggestions on doing this? My particular area
of concern is the headlight bulbs; is there any way to install a
decoder which does not require me to change the light bulbs? They
were a pain to get in and I'm not looking forward to taking them
out. My E-mail is Trainman41@aol.com. Thanks in advance for any
help you can give.
Alex M.
Re: Athearn Genesis DCC
Posted by Paul Federiconi on June 25, 2000, 01:17am
I use the NCE DA102 decoder for my Athearn SD70's using the
1.5V bulbs that came with the models. You have to solder a
390Ohm resistors to step down the voltage that come out of the
decoder for the various functions. One 390 ohm resistor per
function. I have the nose light as the headlight function on/off,
and the ditch lights to on/off on function 1.
Regards,
Paul
Re: Re: Athearn Genesis DCC
Posted by Michael on June 30, 2000, 01:09pm
I also used a NCE DA102US decoder, but I put in a 1.5 V
voltage regulator. For circuit see:
http://pages.sssnet.com/donc/img/lighting.gif
I used the one in the lower right hand corner. The negative
needed for the regulator was got from the decoder by soldering a
wire to the negative side of the four diodes that form the bridge
recifier of the decoder.
Michael
Atlas GP-40
Posted by Ronald Grandmaison on June 19, 2000, 10:29pm
Has anyone intalled a decoder in the nes Atlas GP-40. I have bought
two of these locos and I would like the options of knowing the
choices of decoders for this engine.
Re: Atlas GP-40
Posted by Norman Beveridge on June 20, 2000, 01:30pm
Ronald,
The TTX/RS2 is plug-n-play in this loco, and is by far the
easiest installation. And this is a fairly inexpensive decoder. If
you need or want more features (=$$$), any decoder with the
standard 8 pin plug/harness will fit easily.
FX problems
Posted by joe binish on June 14, 2000, 01:44pm
I am trying to set up a decoder with two independant mars lights.
However, only one will work, even though each CV will accept
programming. A fellow user suggested that the DH-150K will only
allow one function to have FX features. Any one know for sure?
Re: FX problems
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on June 15, 2000, 08:27am
Hi Joe,
I'm not sure why you can't get your two mars lights going. I
have 10 DH150's (A's and K's), and I have them programmed
for mars light on F0 (for the headliht) and double pulse strobe
on F4, controlling the tail light. I've programmed them so the
headlight is always on, as a mars light, but the tail light only
comes on in reverse, as a kind of a backup light. (Mars light
stays on though.)
This setup works fine. So if there's any limitation on the number
of functions that can use FX, it certainly hasn't prevented me
from doing this!
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: FX problems
Posted by Joe Binish on June 16, 2000, 12:17pm
Jean, thanks for your input. I emailed Digitrax, and John Phillips
replied each FX decoder will support 4 FX functions. So it must
be my incompetance(sp?) that is causing the problem. I will try a
larger(than 470ohm, 1/4 watt) resistor to see if that helps. The
light as is is very bright(like the sun!) Joe
Re: Re: Re: FX problems
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on June 19, 2000, 08:23am
Hi Joe,
Don't worry about any possible incompetance. :-) Although I
have things working as I want, it took me a lot of fiddling
around to get it to do so. I think part of the problem is caused by
several of my locos being wired to run in the direction opposite
to the standard. Once you take advantage of the decoder's ability
to allow the direction to be what you want, the CV values in the
manual for FX functions don't seem to quite work as stated in
the manual. But, after plenty of fiddling, things work as I wish.
Perhaps that's all you need to do.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 109

110
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: FX problems
Posted by Norman Beveridge on June 20, 2000, 01:37pm
Jean,
Tell me it isn't true.
Is this an indication that the programming in the Digitrax
decoders has a problem? Why would the programming change
just because you set bit 0 in CV29? This should NOT impact the
expected results for any other settings of CV's. If it does, then
the decoder has a big problem.
Sounds like another reason to avoid Digitrax decoders.
Re: FX problems
Posted by joe binish on June 20, 2000, 03:02pm
As it turns out, Dtrax suggests I fiddle with the resistor values
for the function that is not doing as instructed. Each FX decoder
should support 4 FX functions. Thanks for the input
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FX problems
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on June 21, 2000, 11:21am
Hi Norman,
Gee, Norman, you seem to be pretty quick to jump on Digitrax.
I don't think there's any problem with the decoders from what I
reported but, alas, there are many problems with the manuals.
The specific area of the manuals I was referring to described
how to get FX effects in one function or another. Changing the
CV29 bit reverses which light will be considered the "headlight"
and which is considered the "tail light". So, when the manual
refers to a "forward effect" being activated (an admittedly poor
terminology), the definition of "forward" is reversed, leading to
the confusion.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FX problems
Posted by Norman Beveridge on June 21, 2000, 11:48am
Jean,
I have heard mixed stories about Digitrax decoders, and I guess
the reason I am wary is that if I am going to spend $$$ for
decoders, they better be right straight out of the box and work as
advertised.
I appreciate your quick answer. Your explanation that the manual
is the problem, not the decoder, will help alleviate my fears.
We don't seem to hear about problems like this with Lenz, NCE,
or System 1. Is that because Digitrax actually has more
problems? E.g. the DCC web sites implore the user to test the
decoder before installing it. I have installed 50 NCE decoders,
not one test, and all work perfectly. A friend the same with
System 1 and Lenz decoders.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FX problems
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on June 22, 2000, 08:13am
Hi Norman,
I'm not sure why Digitraxers complain so much. It could easily
be the very poor documentation. If you don't know what you're
supposed to do, you can think the product isn't functioning,
when it is. Hence, complaints.
I have to confess I no longer test decoders either. (Used to, but
they all checked out fine.) And mine are all Digitrax decoders.
Now, my experiences may be a reflection of the fact that I only
have used the "high-end" decoders...DH150's and DN140's.
Most of the complainers seem to be those who have bought the
low-end decoders, DH120's and DH121's. I have no experience
with those. But then again, I have no experience with non-
Digitrax equipment, either.
It would be nice if someone who is unbiased, and who has real
experience with several manufactuerers, would post something
about their experiences...
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FX problems
Posted by Bob Miller on June 22, 2000, 09:31am
Jean, I agree, someone with experience and unbiased to report
would be nice. I have installed at last count around 75 decoders,
which was a shock, but I moved from Dynatrol to DCC in 6
months. I use the NCE system, but I have decoders for NCE,
Digitrax, and now I am using Lenz also. I am basically interested
in features for operation and lights. I have more NCE than any,
and these have been the ones I have managed to smoke the
easiest. I have 9 Digitrax of various stripes, all work perfectly. I
have started using Lenz, the 102 and 103, have about 12
installed, and again, perfect. But I have 5 dead NCE decoders
sitting on the workbench. I had no problems with instructions on
the Digitrax or Lenz, only had to call Lenz one time for support.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FX problems
Posted by Norman Beveridge on June 27, 2000, 10:54am
Bob,
How did you smoke the decoders? Were these installer problems,
or actually problems with the decoders? I also moved out
of Dynatrol in less than 6 months. But after years of going
through all the extra care needed to install Dynatrol receivers
without smoking them, DCC decoders are a piece of cake.
Norman
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FX problem
Posted by Bob Miller on June 27, 2000, 08:22pm
Norman, I only smoked one Dynatrol receiver that I can
remember out of around 40 or 45 receivers I installed over the
years. One of the 6 decoders i maneged to wire something
wrong and it couldn't read the CV table after that. The other 5
were the dual signature decoders that were a joint project
between nce and dynatrol, and they seemed to be extra touchy. It
was usually something on the dynatrol side of the decoder that
got crossways. Since they were double the price of a straight
decoder, I was not a happy camper, and glad to not have to
purchase anymore after I made the full conversion. So, they sit
in a drawer, because it was twenty bucks a pop to send them
back to dynatrol for repair, and often nce and dynatrol couldn't
agree who or what was responsible. That was the major push to
drop the Dynatrol dcc and go fully into nce.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Bob
Re: FX problem
Posted by Joe Binish on June 28, 2000, 05:37pm
Not to change the string, but I figured out my problem and the
decoder (DH-150K) is running fine. Now I can have my Mars
lights and class lights too!
Re: Re: FX problem
Posted by Norman Beveridge on June 29, 2000, 03:52pm
Joe,
Could you share what you found? I think it would help us all if
you told us what was required to get the decoder working as
desired.
Re: Re: Re: FX problem
Posted by joe binish on July 03, 2000, 02:55pm
Sorry this took so long. I dont yet live in the current century. (
must use pasrents computer for email acct) Anyway, the DH-150
will support 4 FX functions, however F1 does not, I think.
When I moved the class lights to F1 and the white Mars to F3,
red Mars on F2 everything was fine. As I was using 1.5v bulbs,
I had to use at least 470 ohm resistors so the bulbs last and aren't
too bright. F2 can be made to latch by turning the throttle knob
and holding the F2 button down.
Digitrax Decoder Reset
Posted by Mario Esteves on June 14, 2000, 06:43am
Hi all,
Can anyone tell me if there's any way of reseting the Digitrax
decoders to factory settings ?
I have one Digitrax DN 140 on a Kato NW2 and so far I couldn't
tune it to the standards that I want. After so many operations I
become a little bit lost and the easier way is to reset the decoder
values to the original ones.
Any help ?
All the best,
Mario
(Porto - Portugal)
Re: Digitrax Decoder Reset
Posted by Leonard Stern on June 14, 2000, 09:53am
Mario: If you still have the grey card-sheet that came with the
decoder the defaults are listed. However to reset: CV1=03,
CV29=06, all other CV's=0. Hope this helps you. Leonard
Stern, email: printmore1@aol.com
Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Norman Beveridge on May 30, 2000, 01:36pm
Has anyone experienced decoder problems with other brands
besides Digitrax? So far I am using only NCE, but have considered
others.
Of all the Digitrax problems cited in the "Wipe Out" message string,
the latest messages about the decoders really bother me. I had
previously thought their decoders were very good, at least according
to what others had said (I currently have none), and that most of the
Digitrax problems were in their command stations and cabs. This
may cause me to rethink the purchase of Digitrax decoders.
Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by bob Miller on May 30, 2000, 04:53pm
Norman: I am an NCE command station user, and probably have
around 55 nce decoders in use. I also have some Digitrax,
maybe 7 or 8, because they were for a specific application, and
lately I have been buying the Lenz 102 because they fit the Kato
snoot. I have had little problems with any of them, and none of
the digitrax have caused any problems.
Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Robert Jackson on May 30, 2000, 05:05pm
Norman, I have at least 25 Digitrax decoders in use and have not
had a problem with them. I have experienced the resetting of
most of the CVs to 255 in the case of two decoders. This is not a
decoder problem, they could both be reset and returned to full
functioning with use of a DT100 throttle. I don't know how Ian's
problem arose, but I am as sure as one can be not knowing all
the facts that he does not have a decoder problem either.
Re: Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on May 31, 2000, 08:15am
Hi Norman,
I have a full Digitrax system (command station/booster, throttles,
and decoders). Everything works quite well.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Dave Chance on May 31, 2000, 02:34pm
Hi Norman,
I have a Digitrax Chief with 2 DT100IR and 1 DT100 Throttles,
20 decoders (5 NCE and 15 Digitrax). The decoders are various
types to fit specific locos. I had two DH121 decoders fail in the
same way, lights on/off worked fine, but direction and speed had
no effect. Digitrax repaired both at no cost. All my DH121's
were purchased in early 1999. My DH83's, DH140's, and
DH120's all work fine. The two early NCE Kit decoders have
had some problems with shorts causing loco to take off on a
couple of occasions. To me, this is virtually trouble free!!
Dave
Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Dennis Smerz on June 06, 2000, 01:09pm
Norman, I have all Digitrax setup (Chief)with 36 locos most
being puchased during the middle to late 50's and some 60's
(Mantua, Tyco,& early Rivirossi, etc...) all now converted to
DCC. 20+ are DH121 units installed by me and purchased from
Tony. I do have two soundtrax units and several Lenz and NEC
units. I have had no problems with any of these. I have found
through my experience that after "fiddling" with a decorder's
programming and it doen't function as you expected , go back to
the default settings first, then start again to achieve what you
want.
Dennis
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 111

112
Re: Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Jim Heidorn on June 07, 2000, 10:48pm
Dennis Smerz,
Off the subject, but do you still have the original open frame
motors in your engines? I'm just getting into DCC and have seen
all of the recommendations about replacing open frame motors
with can motors. If you still use the open frame motors with
DCC, are there any operating differences between them and
engines with can motors?
Thanks,
Jim
Re: Re: Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Norman Beveridge on June 08, 2000, 12:17pm
In general, I don't think that open frame motors are an issue just
because they are open frame. Rather, how good is the motor?
Older open frame motors tended to draw a lot of current and
"cog". The newer motors are much more efficient and have little
cogging.
For example, I know that the open frame motors used in the
Roco built Atlas Alco switchers are very efficient and smooth.
They run great with DC or DCC power.
Any loco that does not run well on DC will have trouble with
DCC, although maybe in some cases you can use the programming
to mask part of it.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Leonard Stern on June 08, 2000, 03:46pm
Norman: Your last para is very correct. If the loco runs well on
DC it will do well if not better on DCC. I have installed
decoders on some very old Bowsers, Mantuas and brass. Before
installing the decoders I fine tuned the mechanisms. I did not
wish to change the motors and gears (COST). After installation
of the proper decoder (re stall current) the locos all start from
click 2 to 4 (Digitrax 128 steps). Regards. Leonard. e-mail:
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: Wipe Out for Other DCC
Posted by Dennis Smerz on June 11, 2000, 07:16pm
Jim,
Initially, I was concerned about the use of the original open
frame motors with dcc. As advised, I checked the amprage draw
(stalled motor condition)for each loco. Some exceeded the
decoder rating(nearly 2 amps). With advise from Caboose
Hobbies (Denver Colorado), I cleaned the motors and drive
gear, reassembled and found the amp draw was less for most
and left the original motors in them. For those to high a draw, I
got canned motors from Caboose Hobbies and dropped them
right in. All run just fine for my needs. Your performance
demands may be more than mine, but to each his own.
Wipe-Out
Posted by Ian Campbell on May 26, 2000, 09:44am
The first night of a new operating group resulted in some major
problems.
(Empire Builder, 3 of DT100IR, 3 of UT2, all DH121's)
First was that when testing a loco(LLP2K-GP7) by running it on
the track, it stopped for about 30 seconds then took off, flat out.
Removed it from the track and tested the coding on PR1 to find that
all settings were at "255" and it could not be reprogrammed.
I presume it is a blown decoder.
Second problem was that a short circuit wiped the programs from
decoders in 6 loco's, 3 were in use, 3 were sitting idle. I have a tail
lamp as short protection and running the system on 12 volts.
Any suggestions on what I have failed to do properly, or how to
avoid these problems again would be appreciated.
Ian Campbell
Glen Waverley-Australia
Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Norman Beveridge on May 26, 2000, 11:06am
I wonder if this problem is specific to older Digitrax units. Over
the past several years I have heard of this from multiple people
in multiple cities, always on a Digitrax system. Never on NCE,
System 1, or Lenz.
I understand from others that the newer Digitrax systems are
much improved. What is the vintage of this one? Perhaps it is
something that an upgrade can fix!!!?!
I would also suggest that all locos should be programmed before
the operating session. Or maybe I misunderstand what took
place here. If guests are bringing over locos, then they should
arrive early so that everything can be programmed, tested, and in
place before the session begins.
Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Robert Jackson on May 26, 2000, 11:21am
Do not assume that you have a blown decoder. Start over with a
DT100 or other programming capable throttle and dump all the
255 settings (may show FF on your throttle.) Then set them to
the default settings recommended by Digitrax. It will very likely
turn out that your decoder is OK and can be re-programmed
with the throttle to whatever you had it initially. But do NOT reprogram
with the PR1. I have had a similar experience and
though I don't know where the gremlin is/was I am quite certain
that the PR1 or its software were the original source.
Re: Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Ian Campbell on May 26, 2000, 10:00pm
Re my original message.
Thanks for your responses.
Further info:-
All locos have been programmed via PR1.
The digitrax decoders, Empire Builder and additional controllers
were all purchased from TTX from July - Sept 1999.
The loco's being used were all programmed prior to the session
starting and were all owned by me.
I have had a lot of trouble with one loco (Athearn FP) which
consistently loses its' programming.
I had tested this one and it was OK prior to the session but failed
at the start of the session.
The loco which "ran away" was being used as a pilot to check
the mainline track.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Robert Jackson on May 27, 2000, 06:20pm
Ian, I would expect that the loco which seemed OK has an
internal short which caused the CVs to be reset to 255. Just a
guess, but for sure the 255 settings everywhere are a part of the
problem. 255 at CV=0 sets the address out of the range of your
throttle; at CV=0 it sets starting voltage at the maximum; and at
CV=61 will set the decoder up for operation of AC type motors.
I can't explain how the CVs get set at 255, but I know that if
they do it will seem like nothing works. It may well also seem
that the decoder can't be reprogrammed, but if you change all
255 settings to 0 and the choose default settings with your
DT100 throttle you might get everything back to square one.
Re: Re: Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Robert Jackson on May 27, 2000, 06:33pm
Ian, If you don't already know about it, you should go to
www.oneList.com and join the Digitrax group and then send a
message to Don Crano who is an expert with Digitrax systems
and he can help you better than I or most of the other folks who
monitor Tony's bulletin board. OneList has combined with eList
and you may have to go there instead.
Re: Re: Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Jeff Siladi on May 28, 2000, 12:58am
Ian,
I had similar problems with my EB. The one I purchased was
basically right out of the chute when they were first released. I
don't know if it is the same sequence of events and I'm not using
a PR1 (yet). If I pressed and held the e-stop button, EVERY
engine on the main would take off at full speed, kind of like a
scalded cat being chased by a rabid dog. I wrote Digitrax about
the problem, and they told me not to use the estop feature. After
some complaining on my part, they offered to fix the command
station. I never did get the problem solved with the EB, and I
soon upgraded to the Chief. Haven't had a problem with it yet.
My point being, you should probably contact digitrax about your
problem as I suspect it is a flaw with the DB150. Not your
decoders, PR1, Throttles, locos, etc. The fact they offered to fix
mine suggests they know what's going on and may have a
simple fix.
Good luck and please post your solution here for all to see.
Jeff
Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Walter Falconer on May 28, 2000, 04:48pm
Ian,
I live on the other side of Melbourne from you and may be able
to help by phone or email. I'm not sure on Tony's rules so I'm
sending him an email with my details.
Re: Re: Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Dale Gloer on May 30, 2000, 09:29am
I think the key here is that you are using DH121 decoders
purchased in the first part of 1999. Digitrax had some parts from
a supplier that appeared to meets specs but didn't function
correctly in the decoder (DH121 only). The problem occurred in
early 1999. I had one decoder that had it purchased about May
1999.
The symptoms are that the decoder loses its programming
whenever a short circuit occurs or when there is a brief power
interruption due to dirty wheels, etc. The decoder must be
returned to the programming track to be reprogrammed.
I suggest that you contact Digitrax for a fix for your DH121's. I
sent mine back with a copy of the purchase invoice and they
replaced it at no charge.
Hope this helps you.
Dale Gloer
Re: Re: Re: Re: Wipe-Out
Posted by Dale Gloer on May 30, 2000, 09:37am
Darn 1000 character limit!!!
The DH121 has another problem that occasionally happens. (I
think other decoders may also do this.) It will start a loco
moving slowly after a short circuit or other power interruption.
This problem can be cleared by removing the loco from the track
for a few seconds and then replacing it.
Dale.
Non DCC Loco Again
Posted by Malcolm Foster on May 23, 2000, 08:42pm
Thanks for all your responses to my last message. Actually the
question I have is: The loco just sits there on the track, should I
disconnect any of the DCC connectors on the Loco? I have
programmed the system for the 00 address of a non DCC Loco.
Another Non DCC Loco will run at this address, but that is not
DCC ready.
Re: Non DCC Loco Again
Posted by Robert Jackson on May 23, 2000, 11:48pm
I am not familiar with Bachmann locos, but it sounds as if no
"juice" is getting to the motor. Does it buzz? My guess is that in
this case DCC ready means that the leads from the pickups
simply end at the plug waiting for a decoder to be plugged in.
The solution (without a decoder) is to connect the power leads to
the motor. I believe that there are plugs for that purpose which
simply plug into the receptacle where your decoder would
normal plug in. I would have expected that Bachmann would
have provided such a plug.
Re: Non DCC Loco Again
Posted by Dave Chance on May 25, 2000, 12:11pm
Malcolm, Judging from all the responces that I have read, you
still haven't gotten your question answered. Apparently some
NCE systems won't directly control a non-DCC loco from the
handheld throttle, but since you say a different non-DCC loco
does run, I will assume this is not your problem. Digitrax and
some other systems will control a non-DCC loco just fine by
setting the throttle to address zero. If your Bachman doesn't run,
does it make a buzzing sound? If not, then power is not getting
to the motor. This may be due to the shorting plug/DCC decoder
socket. Make sure the shorting plug is plugged in for all nondecoder
operation. Remove this plug only when you are
plugging in a decoder. If this is not the case, try running your
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 113

114
loco on regular dc power. Note, some Bachman 4-8-2's had a
problem with the power wipers getting deformed and not
making contact with the wheels. Good luck. You may contact me
directly at djchance@hotmail.com
Dave
Non DCC Loco
Posted by Malcolm Foster on May 23, 2000, 09:10am
How do I run a DCC ready loco, which does not have a decoder, on
a DCC layout. The loco is a Bachmann Spectrum 4-8-2.
Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Ed McCamey on May 23, 2000, 10:35am
Malcom,
Any DC only locomotive (one only) can be operated with
MOST DCC systems. The NMRA specification for DCC
ALLOWS one standard DC locomotive to operate using
"stretched zeros" to put equivelent DC on the track. Yhis is
usually the ZERO address for the DCC system. Do note though
that some DCC systems provide this capability wiht only a nod
to the function. The control available may be quite lacking. Some
systems do a very creditable job of performing the DC function.
It's the DCC system and not the locomotive that's the method.
Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Chuck Snyder on May 23, 2000, 11:29am
Thanks for your post. I want to make sure I understand this
procedure. I have a NCE Powerhouse Pro system. Based on
your post, it appears that I can put one of my non-DCC Athearn
diesels on my probrram track and program it as engine 0 (or
should it be 00?) and I'll have another usable engine. Sounds
great! Am I missing something? Thanks for your help. EOM
Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Norman Beveridge on May 23, 2000, 11:51am
Chuck,
Without a DCC decoder on board the loco, the programming
track has nothing to program.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on May 23, 2000, 01:17pm
Hi Chuck,
As Norman said, there's nothing to program. But the ability to
run a DC loco on a DCC system does indeed mean you get an
independently controlable loco for "free" (with no decoder). But
note that the response of a DC loco on a DCC pike is different
from the response of a decodered loco. (You get "buzzes" from
the loco.) So installing a decoder in all locos is usually worthwhile.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Kelly on May 23, 2000, 02:17pm
I understand that the non decoder equipped engine should not
remain in the idle position for an extended period of time. I do
not know this from experience but I did read that somewhere.
Someone else may need to address this.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Chuck Snyder on May 23, 2000, 02:17pm
Thanks for your responses. How do I get my DCC throttle to
"talk" to my non-decoder engine? Do I perhaps use the address
0 or 00? Thanks. eom
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Robert Jackson on May 23, 2000, 11:34pm
You do not program a standard DC loco. All you do is put it on
the track and select "00" with your throttle. Yes, it buzzes and
sizzles and yes control is not the best, though workable. It will
buzz even when sitting idle and yes it is heating some while that
is happening, but not in my experience enough to be a problem.
What is annoying is that the DC loco will detect polarity changes
at return loops and automatically reverse. You can consider that
you get an "extra" locomotive to operate without a decoder, but
you will likly soon find that it is a pain and not worth it.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Steve Z. on May 24, 2000, 07:27am
DCC, by definition, is AC current at about 1K-2K cycles per
second. A DC loco at idle on a DCC track is essentially
changing direction 1K-2K times per second. Hence the buzz &
heat. This cannot be good for a loco long term and, in fact, will
IMMEDIATELY damage some loco motors. DC operation is
done by putting a +/- DC bias on the DCC AC signal and is
implemented differently by each DCC manufacturer. Check
product docs. Overall, not a good idea in my opinion.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Robert Jackson on May 24, 2000, 12:41pm
Steve Z., I would slightly modify your description by pointing
out that it is the motor's armature that is attempting to reverse
extremely rapidly and not the locomotive itself. But, what kind
of DC motor would be instantaneously be damaged? Heat is
generated even when operated with DCC decoders. Damage
only occurs when overheating happens which is determined by
the motors capacity to dissipate heat. Larger motors will in
general have a greater ability to dissipate because they have
larger mass, not only in the permagnets, but also in the rotating
armature. Ironcoreless motors have a reduced capacity to
dissipate heat precisely because they have less mass. Which
motor will be instantaneously damaged? It seems very unlikely
to me that manufacturers would say that you can run one DC
locomotive if there was a risk of instantaneous damage.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Norman Beveridge on May 24, 2000, 05:46pm
Unless it was a visiting locomotive, I don't see any reason to
have this situation even occur. As cheap as decoders are these
days, and as easy to install, what is the excuse for running a DC
loco? And if you want to test out the loco before adding the
decoder, do it with a DC power pack, for heaven's sake!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Lo
Posted by Robert Jackson on May 24, 2000, 06:25pm
Norman, I might agree with you personally, but cost like beauty
is in the eye of the beholder. Testing was not the issue raised by
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

an earlier communicant, but rather how to get a DC ready, but
non-decoder installed, locomotive to run on DCC. It certainly
can be done, though in my experience not with any thing like the
easy and facility that a regular DCC locomotive can. For most it
would be an interim step until all locos could have decoders
installed.
Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Don Vollrath on May 25, 2000, 10:55am
The NCE controller does not support a non decoder loco from
the hand-held throttle. But it can be manipulated to do so by
wiring up a throttle potentiometer to the computer port connector.
This is explained in the NCE manual.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Non DCC Loco
Posted by Chuck Snyder on May 25, 2000, 12:02pm
Thanks for your response. You're right about the NCE handheld
not running a DC engine as I found out when I tried it. The
engine just sat there and hummed at me (forgot the words I
guess) but didn't move. I'll check out the NCE manual as you
suggest. Actually, I'll probably just forget about it and buy
another DCC engine. Thanks again.
Coupler Conversion web site
Posted by Kelly on May 18, 2000, 02:38pm
Great board for DCC help. I'm looking for any site that may offer
equal help on n-scale micro-train coupler conversions. In particular,
instructions on LL9/1200 installations.
Re: Coupler Conversion web site
Posted by Ed Parsons on May 20, 2000, 12:08pm
I would sujest you go to your local dealer and a Micro Trains
catalog. It will give you all the up to date conversions, and it's
very inexpencive. Or you could try the MicroTrains web site.
Re: Re: Coupler Conversion web site
Posted by Johnnie C. Scott on May 23, 2000, 03:46pm
Just use the mt1110's they drop right in. Remove the spring
piece, remove the old coupler, insert the 1110, replace the spring
piece.
40's 50's replica trains
Posted by Greg Walz on May 11, 2000, 10:45pm
I am starting to build a railroad and would like to find out where to
find 1940's to 1950's replica trains and acc. for HO scale
Decoder for Bowser Loco
Posted by Bob Rupp-Kilgore on May 09, 2000, 11:31am
What would be the best choice for a decoder for a Bowser K-4
Pacific? I doubt that a 1 amp decoder would be adequate.
Re: Decoder for Bowser Loco
Posted by Leonard Stern on May 09, 2000, 11:45am
I used the DH83 which is a 2amp decoder. I installed in a 4-4-2
and 4-6-0 Bowsers both of which are over 20yrs and have the
old pittman motors. Just check that the mechanism operates well
on reg. DC and isolate the motor from the frame. I used thin
rubber and nylon screws. If you want all the bells and whistles
use the DH83FX. In any case I don't believe that Digitrax has
any of the old DH83 but your hobby shop might still have some.
The cost difference is about 20.00. These engines work perfectly
with DCC and start on click 2 or 3. Good luck. Leonard Stern,
e-mail: printmore1@aol.com
Re: Decoder for Bowser Loco
Posted by Ed McCamey on May 09, 2000, 11:48am
Bob, I'd use the Lenz LE 080 "silent drive" which is rated as to
continuious current and not stall current. (You should consider
replacing the motor with the Alco unit anyway)! I'm using the
LE 080 in a Bowser Mikado with the Alco replacement motor
and it's doing just fine.
Programming DN146A FX with NCE
Posted by Seth Cohen on May 06, 2000, 10:12am
I recently purchased the Digitrax decoder DN146A for my N-scale
Atlas U25B. So far everything is going fine but I'm having trouble
programing the FX functions of the decoder using my NCE Power
House Pro. I converted the appropriate hex value to decimal using
the reference chart in the Digitrax manual but still no luck. I have
modified the decoder in any way. There's only the light on each
side.
Let's create a simple scenario: When I move forward, I get a double
pulse light.
Can anyone help?
Thanks
Re: Programming DN146A FX with NCE
Posted by Thomas Gleave on May 07, 2000, 06:51am
Make sure you are in proper speed setting system to match
decoder.
Re: 14,28,128, sounds like they
are not matched together.
EX: system running at 128,decoder programed at 14 or 28.
Hope this helped you
problems with Atlas n-scale switches for DCC
Posted by Seth Cohen on May 06, 2000, 09:34am
I'm using Atlas N-scale switches on my DCC layout. When running
at slow speeds, sometimes the engine dies right over the switch and
sometimes I get a short right at the intersection of the closure rails.
Any ideas what the problem is and even better, ways to fix it. I
could add jumpers from before to after the switch but that does not
address the dying or shorts. The wheels are clean and meet NMRA
specs.
Thanks,
Seth
Re: problems with Atlas n-scale switches for DCC
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on May 08, 2000, 08:53am
Hi Seth,
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116
I'm an HO-scaler, so my experience won't be diretly relevant to
your problem. Still, this sounds a lot like the problem that occurs
with Atlas HO Snap switches.
One (temporary) solution is to coat the area of the frog where the
rails come together with a tough coating of some sort. (I used to
use clear nail polish.) This will eliminate the shorts for a while,
until the coating wears off.
The best solution is to replace the turnouts with ones that don't
have such a shorting problem. In HO, the best I've found are the
Atlas Customline-III turnouts. Don't know about N scale,
though.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: problems with Atlas n-scale switches for D
Posted by Tony Bolthouse on May 09, 2000, 11:43am
Seth- This sounds like the typical shorting problem with HO
turnouts, i.e., they're not "DCC friendly." You might want to see
the thread entitled "Friendly Turnout Points." Tony.
What is LOCONET
Posted by Colin Carl on April 28, 2000, 01:33pm
What is loconet. Plain English please, I'm a dcc beginner.
Re: What is LOCONET
Posted by Don Vollrath on April 28, 2000, 05:10pm
Loconet is the name given to the Digitrax intercommunication
buss between DCC command station, hand-held throttle unit,
and any other apparatus plugged into their 'throttle buss'. It is a
bi-directional computer type Local Area Network (LAN. All
DCC suppliers have some kind of throttle buss. Digitrax calls
theirs Loconet. There is a write up about it available from the
www.tttrains.com website.
Friendly Turnout Points
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 27, 2000, 05:06pm
Okay, we talked about DCC friendly turnouts. And I have reviewed
the material on the other websites about friendly turnouts. They talk
about using PC board ties for the turnout throw bar, but exactly
what is the construction method? Are the points soldered to the PCB
tie? Or are they hinged in some manner? Seems to me that direct
soldered would have stresses on the solder joints in any position
other than as soldered!
Anyone have experience with this? I will build all new ladders for
my staging yards soon, in order to eliminate non-friendly turnouts. I
don't want to build in another maintenance problem by constructing
defective points/throw bars.
Re: Friendly Turnout Points
Posted by Tony Bolthouse on April 27, 2000, 06:51pm
I use Walthers (Shinohara) code 83. I solder the points to the PC
throwbar. The other end of the points are mated to the closure
rails with joiners. So far I have not soldered "bonds" to connect
the point rails to the closure rails. The point rail ends are very
snug in the joiners to the closure rail ends so that the closurepoint
rail moves as one. (I have in some cases soldered the point
and closure rails to their joiner.)There is a stiffness and this
gives the points a tendency to center between the stock rails. But
there does not seem to be any undue stress. Nor is there any
problem with the Tortise machine moving the points. However,
time will tell. No one on other bulletin boards have reported any
problems, either.
On a related item, I replace one of the plasic ties with a PC tie
and solder the closure rails and the stock rails to it, cutting a slot
in the center, of course. I find this easier than soldering jumpers
between the rails.
Re: Friendly Turnout Points
Posted by Ed McCamey on April 27, 2000, 08:29pm
Norman,
O thing is that since you are making short resitant turnouts, you
can set the points closer together for the NMRA mechanical
clearance. This is usually MUCH closer and therefor less travel
for the points to operate. I use PC Board ties for all my hand laid
turnouts wherer the points are continuious with the closure rails.
Since I use the narrower mechanical distance and use 2-1/2" of
points distance before spiking down the closure - have had no
problems at all with joint stress.
Re: Re: Friendly Turnout Points
Posted by Bob Miller on April 27, 2000, 11:55pm
I have handlaid switches that have been down for 10 years or
more. They are soldered to the pc board. So far I have had only
three that failed over time, and they were easy to fix. However, I
do shudder a bit with the Tortise machines driving them. I have a
couple with switchmaster machines, which seems a little gentler.
Re: Re: Re: Friendly Turnout Points
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 28, 2000, 08:33am
I also should have asked what source anyone uses for the PCB
ties. Our hobby shops here carry PCB ties, but they are not
longer than standard ties (i.e. not long enough to act as a throw
bar, much less span far enough to use at the wide end of a
turnout). I got some once before from Clover House, I think.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Friendly Turnout Points
Posted by Bob Miller on April 28, 2000, 10:37am
Norman, the ones I used were cut from pcb board many years
ago by another guy who made his own switches. I have a
neighbor who currently handbuilds his turnout, I will ask him
when I see him.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Friendly Turnout Points
Posted by Ed McCamey on April 28, 2000, 10:55am
Clover House is still the best bet on getting PC Board Ties. You
can also get some from Tall Pines in Bryan Texas - but they are
really Sn3 ties.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Friendly Turnout Points
Posted by ed bradbury on May 12, 2000, 04:27pm
I recommed that you read the section on turnouts in the book
titled "Digital Command Control" written by Stan Ames, Rutger
Friberg & Ed Loizeaux. This book is a lot of information
concernig NMRA DCC.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Friendly Turnout Point
Posted by Bob Miller on May 12, 2000, 11:33pm
Been there, done that, that is why I use Peco insulfrog in most
cases, with a few modified Shinoharas in special cases, or
because they just haven't been replaced yet.
MDC rtr Shay
Posted by Thomas Gleave on April 23, 2000, 10:21pm
Has any one worked with MDC rtr shay engine yet?
Any input on how its runs?
Decoder installation?
any info would be helpful.
TAGRR@webtv.net
Thanks
Re: MDC rtr Shay
Posted by Ed McCamey on April 24, 2000, 10:34am
Thomas,
There was a really nice long and detailed report on the MDC
RTR Shay on the Digitrax onelist (egroups) back in March. You
can log on and go to the messages archive, pick MARCH, and
search "Shay". You'll get about 40 messages to search through -
but the one you want has the MDC Shay in the title about
midway down the list.
Trolley DCC
Posted by Jim Heidorn on April 22, 2000, 02:05pm
Has anyone been successful using DCC through an overhead wire
system??
Any suggestions, what works, what doesn't work, etc.??
Re: Trolley DCC
Posted by tomk_fl@yahoo.com on April 22, 2000, 08:31pm
Jim,
we have a club member working on trolley and trolley-bus in
HO DCC.
The bus has made it's first successful turn and we are working
on getting the steering to work with DCC F0 and F1. Please
contact me via email if we can provide more info.
Tom
Orlando Society of Model Railroaders
Re: Trolley DCC
Posted by Dave Chance on April 27, 2000, 09:34pm
Jim,
I think you should contact Fred Miller at . Fred has at least two
modules plus a little, all using DCC, overhead wire, and
computer control. His modules have been displayed at MER
convention and have won each time! Fred has found a way to
show social interaction of the people on his layout, although he
may deny it. Fred recently moved from the Charlotte area to
Virginia so it took a while for me to get his new e-mail address.
Tell him I gave you the address. BTW Fred is the author of
popular software games, "Trolley Time", "RRSwitch", and
"Freight Train" by Challenge Products.
Re: Trolley DCC
Posted by Dave Chance on April 27, 2000, 09:46pm
Jim,
I thought I knew what I was doing, but for some reason Freds email
address didn't show up in my first response. The address is:
TractionFan@aol.com
Dave
EasyDCC Radio Throttle
Posted by Jack Parker on April 22, 2000, 09:10am
As Tony is now doing EasyDCC, just wanted to relate how pleased
we are here with the Radio Throttle operation. Controls seem just
right and the operating range is great. Very happy with the system.
USED CODE 100 NICKEL SILVER FLEXIBLE
TRACK
Posted by Jacques Huppé on April 21, 2000, 08:37pm
Greetings. I need lots of subject item, at least 50 sections, for
hidden staging usage, and the price has to be really affordable.
Please contact me directly at jhuppe@intranet.ca.
Thank you.
Lenz Set 02
Posted by John Meck on April 20, 2000, 11:10am
I'm quite interested in the Lenz Set 02 system. However, there are
no dealers or owners nearby so I can't see it in operation first hand.
If anyone has experience with this system I would appreciate it if
you could contact me (off-list if you prefer) regarding the pro's &
con's of this system. Thanks. John Meck (jmeck@het-inc.com)
Starting Voltage
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 19, 2000, 02:35pm
Please share your experience and/or philosophy about the value for
CV2, the Vstart, or starting voltage. Using 28 speed step operation,
I try to set this value to just start the loco rolling ever so slowly at
speed step 1. Starting speeds between different locos can be
matched pretty well this way so that they can operate in consists
together.
But what is the impact on starting during 128 speed step operation?
What about at mid-range during 128 speed step operation?
Turnouts
Posted by Ed on April 19, 2000, 09:11am
Has anyone tried the Pilz Elite turnout made in Germany?
Re: Turnouts
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 19, 2000, 01:57pm
Ed,
Until seeing Pilz turnouts mentioned on this bulletin board in the
last few days, I had never heard of them. None of the bigger
hobby shops here in Houston carry them, and don't seem to
know -- or care -- where to get them.
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Re: Re: Turnouts
Posted by Tony Bolthouse on April 19, 2000, 03:54pm
I first heard about Pilz in a May 1998 Model Railroading article
by Larry Puckett, where he goes into some detail about DCC
friendly turnouts. There is more at http://members.aol.com/
wire4dcc/index.htm.
You can purchase them at http://www.euro-trains.com/
index2.htm. Just click on TILLIG. Their service is good. These
switches are not hinged and look and operate very nice.
Re: Re: Re: Turnouts
Posted by Jim Heidorn on April 22, 2000, 07:08pm
The web address: http://members.aol.com/wire4dcc/index.htm
does not work.
Please check and advise.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Turnouts
Posted by Tony Bolthouse on April 22, 2000, 08:23pm
Sorry about that, Jim. Here's one that works:
http://members.aol.com/wire4dcc/homepage.htm
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Turnouts
Posted by Tony Bolthouse on April 22, 2000, 08:27pm
Jim: He has changed his site URL a few times in the past. I just
checked after the previous response and this is his latest
(accessible from the one just previously given)and more direct:
http://www.WiringForDCC.com/
Decoder Speed Curve
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 17, 2000, 05:13pm
Seeing the recent responses to the analog question, I wonder what
others are using for speed curves. I saw a recent comment about the
curve being too shallow, but I have made every effort to keep loco
speed low. I try to give just enough speed that my trains can just
make the ruling grade -- at a much reduced speed, but isn't this
realistic? -- and not go into "slot trains" mode after they break over
the top.
My current speed table looks like this (0 - 28 = 29 values):
0, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 13, 16, 20, 23, 27, 32, 36, 41, 46, 52, 57, 63, 70,
76, 83, 90, 98, 106, 114, 122, 131, 140
This compares to the default top speed of 195 for my decoders (max
is 255). But I have had no operating sessions to prove this out.
DCC Analog help
Posted by DonP on April 15, 2000, 01:36am
I just hooked up my digitrax dcc, and programmed my gp-30
(analog). The loco moves in each direction, but I have no speed....It
starts moving when the throttle gets up to 24 and reaches max speed
at 40 on display. It moves so slow,it doesn't change speeds at all
between 40 and 99 on throttle.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Don
Re: DCC Analog help
Posted by RC on April 17, 2000, 11:23am
I also am just getting a layout set up with DCC. I am using a
Digitrac Genesis with a UT2. I have found that all my engines
run at about half speed. My 10 year old Athearn Gp9 without a
decoder installed runs much better than the newer PK2 Gp18
without decoder installed. I have a new Mikado with the built in
plug and that is where I have the one decoder installed. I find
that it will run but slowly and without any lights that I can see. I
can creep it along very nice when switching but I find at least
half of my knob movement is meaningless. Time to talk to the
experts I think!
Re: DCC Analog help
Posted by Robert Jackson on April 17, 2000, 04:50pm
You don't say what scale you are in and I don't quite understand
the notion of programming an analog loco. I take that to mean
that it presently does not have a decoder. If that is correct then
address=00 should run the analog loco. Slow speeds could be
the result of selecting a small scale (N) setting which limits the
voltage on the tracks. However, if the loco does have a decoder
then the very slow response to the throttle might be the result of
programming the decoder to 128 steps when it shouldn't be. You
will have to share more information in order for those who
monitor this list to help. Yet another thought: the throttle
response curve may be set much too low such that maximum
voltage is set very low and the throttle is merely dividing that
very limited voltage into many very tiny increments.
Re: Re: DCC Analog help
Posted by DonP on April 17, 2000, 05:27pm
Robert,
Thanks for the reponse ( you to RC ). I'm running HO scale, I
have not installed any decoders in my loco yet. This is a brand
new loco right out of the box proto gp-30 and I wanted to test it
out first. The book from Digitrax says to test the loco first
(analog) by addressing the throttle to 00 which I have done. The
loco moves in both directions OK but at a rate of about 1 foot in
3 seconds. The loco starts to move after I reach 24 on the throttle
and increases speed until I reach 40, and then wouldn't go any
faster in either direction. The throttles speed is 0-90. And yes,
it's set to HO scale. I tried N scale setting, as the book says but
there's no change. I'm testing this on a four foot section of track
(this is all that's set up at this time, brand new layout ).
Again thanks for the input......
Don
Re: Re: Re: DCC Analog help
Posted by Robert Jackson on April 18, 2000, 04:15pm
Hi Don,
I had meant my message for both of you, since you both seemed
to have a similar problem. I should first enter the disclaimer to be
an expert, though I do have experience with Digitrax. Are you
sure your loco works smoothly and well with a normal DC
power pack and that there is no binding in the drive train?
Re: Re: Re: DCC Analog help
Posted by Robert Jackson on April 18, 2000, 04:21pm
Don,
I forgot further ask if you had checked the output of your
command station? With a suitable volt meter check the output
from rail A to ground and rail B to ground. These should be very
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nearly identical and should be close to half the voltage across the
two rails. You will be measuring AC voltage at around 16 VAC
across the rails with the HO setting.
GP20 Decoder Install
Posted by Carl on April 14, 2000, 12:05pm
I have a new Life-Like GP20. Can anyone tell me a good decoder to
use and where I might find instructions on how to install it.
I also have an old Life-Like F-7 and was wondering about the same
info.
Re: GP20 Decoder Install
Posted by Michael on April 14, 2000, 06:44pm
If talking about N scale, I installed decoders in both. The F7 I
used a Digitrax DZ120 (no longer available, would use now a
Lenz LE-077XF or Digitrax DZ-121), by cutting a sheet platic
square to fit over the horz. mounted motor (to keep the decoder
from touching the rotating parts) and put the decoder above the
motor. I put a DZ-121 in the GP-20 (wanted the BEMF for that
one). I removed the rear light board and filed the area a little bit
to fit the decoder.
If HO, I have done a P2K GP20 also with a DZ-121 as the DZ-
121 was the cheapest BEMF decoder available when I did it
(maybe it still is??). I removed the PCB and wired the decoder
directly to the loco. You could also put a Lenz LE-103XF or
NCE D102 in if you remove the factory PCB. I have not done
any HO LL F-7. Thou I have done several P1K F3's with NCE
D102US's and one B unit with a Soundtraxx DSD.
Re: Re: GP20 Decoder Install
Posted by Leonard Stern on April 16, 2000, 09:47pm
I used a DN140. I removed the small weight on the rear truck
and placed it there. There are several traces to cut as marked on
the board. You do not need to replace the lights as the resistors
are already on the board. Just solder the proper wires to the
board following the NMRA standards. When completed this
engine operates very well. If you need more info just reply.
Leonard Stern, email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: GP20 Decoder Install
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 17, 2000, 04:17pm
I have the HO GP20 at home, and have assumed that a TTX
GP7/30 or TTX RS2 will drop in (I can check it some time and
report back). If so, this is quick and cheap -- less than $25, with
no wiring to do at all!!! I don't know of any other decoders
(there may be some) that have as low a profile, so if these won't
fit, you will have a problem with almost anything else.
Re: Re: Re: Re: GP20 Decoder Install
Posted by Leonard Stern on April 18, 2000, 12:23pm
Norman: The LL GP20 does not have a NMRA plug. There are
traces to cut on the board and they are marked with an "X". The
decoder wires are then soldered to to P-1,2,4,5,6,7 and 8 pads. If
you place the decoder in place of the removable weight it makes
for a very neat installation. No need to replace the 1.5v bulbs
with 12v as the proper resistor (300 ohms) is already on the
board. This is for the HO GP20, it maybe different for the N
model. Leonard Stern, printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: GP20 Decoder Install
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 18, 2000, 05:11pm
Thanks, Leonard. I still have not had a chance to look at the
loco's chassis, so I appreciate the info.
Regarding the headlight, I suppose that you could leave the
existing bulb in the loco and see if it will work the way you
want, saving all the work of changing the bulb. Then if need be
you can go back and replace it with a different bulb. I prefer 14
v. or 16 v., to give a dimmer light typical of older locos (16 v. for
1st generation, 14 v. for second). To get a good Mars light in a
F7, etc., though, a 12 v. works better for my tastes.
Atlas DCC Installation
Posted by Carl on April 12, 2000, 01:13pm
Can anyone give a list of Atlas Diesel N-Scale engines that are
simplest to install decoders. Which if any will accept the plug-nplay
decoders? Which have the light boards that are simple to
convert or replace? Also, which decoders are best for each particular
engine. I have an MRC system and new to the area of DCC.
Looking for an easy starting place.
Switches
Posted by Frank Russell on April 11, 2000, 09:37am
On my layout expansion, I am planning (thanks to advice from
many of you) on using PECO turnouts. I am still unsure of whether
to use electrofrog or insulfrog. While I sort of understand the
difference, I do not know the advantages of each. Help or advice
would be appreciated.
Re: Switches
Posted by Don Vollrath on April 12, 2000, 04:05pm
Have you read all the info available about DCC friendly
switches on the wiring for DCC boards? It's worth checking out.
See http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-anda.tcl?topic=Wiring%20for%20DCC
Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Steve Z. on April 13, 2000, 11:23am
You want INSULFROG ONLY !!!!!! We started with a
combination of both (not knowing the difference), and ended up
replacing every electrofrog we could still get at with the
insulfrog flavor.
Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Frank Russell on April 14, 2000, 09:24am
Steve - What is wrong with the electrofrog?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Phil Adams on April 14, 2000, 12:15pm
Nothing is wrong with the electrofrog switches; but for DCC
purposes the Elf have power routing just as the Shinohara
switches do. In DCC you are creating some possible problems
for yourself when you use power routing switches. Rather than
spend the time to make power routing switches DCC friendly,
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just use ones like the Peco insulfrog or Atlas switches. I am sure
that's why the comment about using Insulfrog switches.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Steve Z. on April 15, 2000, 10:35am
Phil is absolutely correct. The issue has to do with power
wiring, isolation of the switches, and shorts on the frog. I don't
remember the precise problems we had, but if you have decided
on Peco switches you should know that electrofrogs require
extra work to install properly for DCC and insulfrogs are no
brainers. And the switches are essentially the same !
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on April 17, 2000, 12:05pm
Hi everyone,
There is one point to be made in favor of the electrofrog, though.
With the frog insulated on the insulfrog, stalling on the turnout
becomes more likely. In fact, with the system Peco uses to
power the turnout, these switches can develop more and more
stalls over time.
The solution is to allow power routing, but use insulating joiners
to limit the power-routed area to *just* the turnout area, and not
the track beyond. Peco sells an extra set of contacts designed to
be added to their switch machines to allow this power routing.
Using this arrasngement will increase the reliability of the Peco
turnout a lot.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Bob Miller on April 17, 2000, 02:43pm
Regarding the insulfrog and stalling with time, I have used them
for years, and yes, it does seem they stall with time. However, I
have found that when they do, I take a piece of fine emeryboard
and clean the point and the stock rail it rubs against, and put a
drop of track cleaning solution on the contact, and the problem
goes away for quite a while. Just thought I would pass it along.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 17, 2000, 04:06pm
Seems to me that with Bob's solution to the stalling problem, it is
best to eliminate the shorting problem ever present with the
electro frog. I honestly cannot see any justification for a power
routing turnout if you can easily fix the stalling problem.
I.e., go with DCC friendly configuration every time, and
eliminate today's problem (shorting) forever, knowing you can
easily deal with tomorrow's problem (stalling) if it ever occurs.
Some of us (such as MMR Gil Freitag) go out of our way, when
hand laying turnouts, to deliberately leave the frog unpowered,
and to have the points always wired (bonded) to the correct
stock rail. Considering the effort of hand laying, why would we
do this if this were not very, very important?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Gale Saxton on April 18, 2000, 12:26pm
I prefer electrofrog. The added insulators are a minor addition in
installation and power routing is not important since you should
be using multiple feeders anyhow.
If you install both types properly, electrofrog has an advantage
as follows.
If you run the wrong way thru a turnout, the electrofrog shorts
out but then corrects when you throw the switch. Wrong way
thru an insulfrog and you wil always DE-RAIL!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on April 18, 2000, 01:04pm
Hi Norman,
Stalling doesn't just occur due to loss of power from the points.
It also happens if there's a bit of dirt on the track under one set
of powered trucks while the other set is passing through the
insulated frog area.
In fact, I found the stall problem over time with Peco insulfrogs
to be bad enough that on my latest layout I have gone with Atlas
Customline III turnouts, with the exception of one Peco curved
turnout. It's true you don't get the very nice locking-points
feature of the Pecos when using the Atlas. BUT, you do get a
HUGE all-metal frog that's very easy to power route with a Snap
Relay. (The frog is so huge that the kind of shorting you are
referring to can't possibly happen, even with wheels that are way
off the NMRA specs.) I have every one of my Atlas turnouts
power routed with Snap Relays, and there are now zero stalls at
turnouts, even when moving at ultra-slow speeds.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Switches
Posted by Bob Miller on April 18, 2000, 03:44pm
What you say is very true. However, I don't have the luxury of
replacing over 200 peco track switches, along with a handful of
handbuilt and Shinohara switches that prove to be major pains
too until finally got them dcc compatible. I don't find the stalling
problem bad enough win insulfrogs to warrant that kind of
bucks.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Switch
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on April 19, 2000, 08:37am
Hi Bob,
Yes, I wasn't suggesting that you change out your equipment.
But bear in mind that this thread was started by someone who
stated he was convinced to go with Peco at the *start* of a
layout. I was just trying to give him some more facts in case that
might influence his decision.
And, if going with the Atlas Customline III turnouts, although
Snap relays aren't cheap remember you don't have to install them
on every turnout right at the start. They can be installed later on
if stalling starts happening. But with the Pecos, especially the
insulfrogs, there isn't a whole lot that can be done to correct the
problem. (Except for frequent claenings of the points, which is a
nuisance.)
Sincerely,
Jean
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DCC Signal Bus
Posted by Roger Robar on April 07, 2000, 07:16pm
I have my NCE command station about half way of 100' of bus
wire with no problems, I'm using 14ga. wire for the bus line. 18ga.
wire to the track at about 3 to 4 ft. apart. I will use a booster when I
start the upper level though.
Decoder Programming
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 07, 2000, 02:40pm
Does anyone have a suggestion how to handle a locomotive with a
letter in the "number"? It is customary to program the decoder to the
loco number, and then to select that loco (or consist) based on the
loco number. But what do you do about a Santa Fe F7 ABBA set
which might be numbered something like 906L, 906A, 906B,
906C. Even if you run these as a single consist called 906, how do
you program the individual decoders? If anyone else has been down
this road, I would very much like to know how you approached this
problem.
Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Bob Miller on April 07, 2000, 04:08pm
Tell you what I did with a set of F3's for ATSF. The first I set as
201, the second as 9101, the third as 9201. I haven't any engines
with 9000 numbers. Of course with the consist I don't care about
the fake numbers, I have them recorded in case I need to get to
one for some reason.
Be glad to hear what anyone else says. Incidently received two
new nce cab04 throttles, new features, great job.
Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Bernhard on April 08, 2000, 07:20am
If your consist is semi-permanent or permanent why not
program all units with the same address i.e. 906 and drop the
letter? You may have to rewire the motor leads on some units to
have all units running in the direction you want. The advantage
of this arrangement is that the consist will only take up one slot
in the command station (which may or may not be an issue for
you).
Re: Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Bob Miller on April 08, 2000, 07:46am
Ah, but there is the problem, I don't leave them together. I
actually have two different railroads, both ATSF, one is a
modular set in 1950-1960, the other a larger one set in 1989 (the
main railroad). There are 60 some engine numbers on it, but on
the modular, about 25 engine numbers. ATSF often had F units
running with other diesels, I like to be able to do the same. I
have one set of F3A-F3B-F3A, and another F3A-F3A. The two
A units are a consist. The three units get split so that one F3A
may end up in a consist with a couple of GP7. Therefore the
unique numbers. Obviously the developers didn't take the
A,B,C, etc in consideration when designing DCC.
Re: Re: Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Johnnie C. Scott on April 11, 2000, 12:49pm
Bob, I know exactly zero about dcc. It seems to me, however,
that it would be a simple thing to assign a number value to the
letters. a=1, b=2 etc. starting over again when you get to (0).
I don't know if dcc recognizes hexadecimal or not (0-9,a-f)but
that too, might be a solution.
Re: Re: Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 11, 2000, 01:42pm
Bob,
I am not sure that anyone else besides you and me really
understands the problem that we are trying to deal with.
A further issue -- even if we can figure out a reasonable and
logical way of handling this loco number, how do you label the
model without defacing it? If you put the "ersatz" number on the
bottom, out of sight, then when setting up a consist, how do you
read it without picking up the loco? I keep trying to think of a
good way, such as putting the number on the end only, of
making the number visible without much handling and yet not
impacting the appearance of the model.
This will not be a few models so that I could easily remember --
I have four ABBA Santa Fe sets.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Dave Chance on April 11, 2000, 02:55pm
Bob and Norm,
A friend has a rather large layout using Digitrax Chief. Since he
started with a Big-Boy, he uses two digit numbers on all his
locos. He has loco channel assignment sheets at each yard and at
the dispatcher's desk. He has more than 70 locos on the layout
but the list works fine. Locos from off the layout use two or four
digit numbers as they please. I personally use the 9000 series
with my locos that have a number between 100 and 128 to avoid
the Ax thru Cx numbers that Digitrax uses.
I know this isn't the same as your particular problem but it may
help. Good luck and good railroading.
Dave
Re: Re: Re: Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Bob Miller on April 11, 2000, 04:07pm
Norman, I am not sure I even understand it all. I have two F3's,
one is A-A, the other A-B-A, and the A-A set has both decoders
programmed with the same number as they never separate. It is
the A-B-A set that I sometimes bust apart and split into two
consists with Geeps. In addition, right now I have a Stewart
FtA-B set, but they stay together also.
I just simply have a little label on the desk where the command
station is at, along with the Procab, that has the numbers I
assigned so I can do a consist.
If Stewart or whoever puts out the F7's or F9's in blue and
yellow, then I will have a problem.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Bob Miller on April 11, 2000, 04:11pm
Dave: I answered Norman before reading yours. My 1950-60's
Santa Fe is a modular railroad on my side of the garage. The
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basement Santa Fe is set in 1989, and has the large roster, 70
plus, as you have. But no problem as each has a four digit road
number. However, I do keep a computer listing of consist
numbers and the units assigned, plus a listing of all single units
such as switchers that don't consist normally. that list remains at
my dispatcher table also, along with a laptop and printer so it is
easy to update and change. My op crews get a train card with
their waybills, that lists the consist number and the engines, with
the lead engine first. Works great for us.
Bob
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 12, 2000, 08:46am
Bob,
If all of my sets would run together as consists and never be
busted up, they would not need separate numbers, as you said.
But like you, my desire is to run an ABBA set as a consist now,
and bust it later to run with GP's, which means separate
numbers.
I have only one loco in the 9000 series, which is few enough
that probably I can fit the LABC loco numbers into this series
without much confusion.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Decoder Programming
Posted by Bob Miller on April 12, 2000, 11:40am
Norman: your comment about leaving engines in consists struck
a note. On the big basement railroad, consists are rarely changed
because of the restaging, etc. between op sessions. However, my
modular railroad in the garage is my "plaything" railroad, I
usually operate it by myself for the fun of it. I do bust the
consists up, because I feel with the nce system it isn't that big of
deal. I have consist numbers for both railroads, on the "heritage"
garage railroad, there are temporary consist numbers that I use
and then discard. That railroad, at last count, has 28 engines on it
including the covered wagons.
delivery
Posted by Mike Levy on April 06, 2000, 11:34pm
When will you be finished with my order?
NCE Deliveries???
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 06, 2000, 03:45pm
Rumors that NCE is delivering cabs and decoders. Is it true???
What about boosters? Dare I ask about radio cabs?
Re: NCE Deliveries???
Posted by Bob Miller on April 06, 2000, 10:54pm
Me again. I received a booster I had ordered in December this
week. I understand the dealers have new cab04 cabs, without the
dip switches, using a new way of assigning a cab number. I also
heard a new designation, cab04P for those with knobs, cab04e
for the encoder buttons. Talked to Scorse today, the radio stuff is
still aways off.
DCC Signal Bus
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 06, 2000, 03:41pm
I am wondering what experience others may have with the length of
the signal bus vs. adding a booster transformer. Some say that their
bus runs 70+ feet with no transformer, and no problems. Others
swear by the 30 feet rule. Any feed back? Let's talk the mainstream
systems -- NCE, System 1, and Lenz. (Digitrax is totally different,
and I am not interested in what happens there.)
Re: DCC Signal Bus
Posted by Bob Miller on April 06, 2000, 10:51pm
My command center is in the middle of the bus. So I used one
port to run bus one direction, the other port to run the other. The
longest run on either bus is about 65 feet. I did install a power
booster in the middle because the plugins on the far end were
getting flakey.
The other bus runs about30 feet and I do not have a booster on
it, and all of the plugins work fine. I also wonder if the number
of plugins (uttp) on the bus has some affect. I like my uttp's
about3 to 4 foot apart.
Re: DCC Signal Bus
Posted by Don Vollrath on April 10, 2000, 09:01am
I have an NCE system where the PHPro controller sits at about
2/3 of the 110 ft overall buss length. Cab buss wiring is 6 wire
telecom type cable. There is a 2 ft stub between the controller
and nearest UTP feeding out in both directions. I used a 2-in-1
RJ splitter adapter to get 3 cables on the back of the UTP. I don't
use an aux. 12V supply, just the power available from the NCE
controller. I have not seen any problems using 2 cabs plugged in
at random locations along the layout.
Re: Re: DCC Signal Bus
Posted by Bob Miller on April 10, 2000, 12:06pm
On my nce system, which I described in an earlier post, I used
the auxillary power supply on the one bus, because during an
operating session, we had two yard cabs, and up to seven
mainline cabs plugged in and running along that bus and had
some problems before installing the power supply. Best advice I
can offer is to try it without the extra transformer, but recognize
the need to install it under a full load situation.
Bob
Re: Re: Re: DCC Signal Bus
Posted by Steve Z. on April 12, 2000, 02:44pm
I agree with Bob. Eight or nine cabs causes us a problem too.
We have a very dense layout with 9 panel connectors on what is
at most a 50 foot bus. Despite popular opinion, I don't think bus
length (within reason) is the issue. The number of cabs
connected (particularly backlit ones) is. We recently connected 2
of our panel connectors to our normal 13.8 VDC accessory
power supply and the problem has gone away for now.
DCC Beginner 2nd Question
Posted by Carl on April 05, 2000, 11:37am
Thanks for the advice so far Guys!!! I have a Pentium 75 mhz
system not in use at my house. What type of equipement is
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necessary to turn this into a DCC system. What would the cost be
as compared to the Empire starter or MRC starter. I know about
computers, I don't know about DCC equipment. Thanks again, You
Guys Are Good!!!!
Re: DCC Beginner 2nd Question
Posted by Don Vollrath on April 05, 2000, 03:29pm
You don't need a computer to operate a train layout with DCC.
The DCC command station does all the computing that is
necessary. But if you intend to use a computer to supplement and
control your command station in the future, be sure that you
purchase a command station that does have an easy to work with
computer interface. The NCE PowerHouse Pro has one.
DonV
Re: DCC Beginner 2nd Question
Posted by Bernhard on April 08, 2000, 07:15am
Digitrax also has a computer interface and a programming
interface. I use the PR1 programming interface a lot to quickly
set up any new decoders.
LED's for PS III
Posted by Roger Robar on April 05, 2000, 07:31am
Thanks Dennis for your help, everything (LED's)are working fine.
Roger
DCC Beginner
Posted by Carl on April 04, 2000, 11:29am
I'm new to the world of dcc. Great web site!!! I operate my layout
by myself 90% of the time. I'm tired of block switches so I want to
go to DCC for simple ease of use. Couple of questions..1)Is mrc
2000 really that much below digitrax and others. 2) Is 128 step
speed and a few of the other advanced features really necessary (i.e.
cost beneficial)in the dcc world for a small timer like myself.
Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by mike on April 04, 2000, 12:25pm
Being a beginner myself, the best advice I could give another is
to find someone with a DCC layout so that you can experience it
first hand. That is what I did and the difference in 28 to 128
speed steps is awesome! Not to mention all the other neat stuff
you can do. The control is unbelieveable especially at low
speeds. I model in HO and we use the Digitrax Chief because of
layout size and a number of operators. Have no experience with
the MRC unit however. Hope this helps some.
Re: Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by Bob Miller on April 04, 2000, 12:44pm
I operate a large railroad, 3 decks with helixes, and I host an op
session once a month, but run by myself quite a bit. I went with
NCE PowerPro and have not been sorry as far as performance. I
have NCE, Digitrax and Lenz decoders in my engines and all do
well. Point is, don't think in terms of "beginner" because you
won't be one of those forever. Look for expandability of your
system and compatibility with other systems products, which as
I understand is a weak point with MRC.
Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by Ed McCamey on April 04, 2000, 01:50pm
Carl, Speed step is but one of the differences. Progaming
advanced CV features, start, mid-range, top speeds, custom
speed curves, access to lighting effects and evenutally to sound
are many of the by yourself features that make a big difference.
Multi-unit consisting is another advanced feature you want to
have maximum flexibility with. Certainly small and only a
limited motive power layout can be adequately handled with
MRC - but the real power of DCC is growth and compatibility
with the options. Check all the options and try out the systems
before making a final choice.
Re: Re: Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by Norman Beveridge on April 04, 2000, 01:52pm
If you can, operate on several DCC equipped model railroads
with different systems. Get some experience with DCC, but
don't let anything hold you back.
MRC is somewhat limited in expandability. The mainstream
systems are readily expandable, and are similar to each other in
most features. Each system must be judged against what YOU
want! One system may suit me for reason X, but reason X is
why you do not like it.
As was said in a previous posting, don't consider yourself a
beginner. Just dive in, ask a lot of questions, and when you need
help, ask some more. That is what the rest of us do. I figure out
something that is helpful to you, and later you figure out
something that is helpful to me.
Re: Re: Re: Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by Bill Herbert on April 04, 2000, 02:41pm
Carl, All of the responses posted so far offer good advice. Tony
has his "Off the cuff" system comparisons on this site & the
industry manufacturers/suppliers can be found at
www.ribbonrail.com/nmra/nmralink.html. Don't settle for less
than you expect to want in any system or you'll simply have to
upgrade later.
Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by Pete Costa on April 04, 2000, 04:02pm
Carl,
I am also a beginner. However, I wanted the expandability for
future use. My layout occupies a space of 14' by 31'. Multiple
mainlines and a serious yard area. I tried out several systems and
found the NCI Powerhouse Pro to fit my needs best. Good luck
in your research.
Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on April 05, 2000, 05:19pm
I've only been involved in this hobby for the last year or so, and
right now I'm dealing with a plain ol' FLAT 4X8 layout.
One hour of research last year convinced me that MRC's system
could never keep me happy. The number of speed steps is minor
compared to other DCC features, though it DOES make a
difference.
Example: Imagine a Proto 2000 plastic E-7 diesel, just sitting
there on the track...a touch of the throttle knob and you hear the
big engine crank over, fire, then settle into a smooth idle. Hit a
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124
couple more buttons, and the headlight comes on, then the Mars
light...not simply flashing on and off, but pulsing just like the
prototype.
A twist of the throttle, and it begins to move, imperceptibly at
first, then slowly accelerating. As she moves faster, the engine
noise notches up. As we leave the station, the engineer lets off a
blast with the Wabco horn...
And just about none of the above is possible with MRC.
You decide...
Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by ed bradbury on April 07, 2000, 04:18pm
Carl As others are saying each DCC system is different and you
should try several. I am using CV Products EasyDCC (see
Model Railraoder 1997) system and find it very good. The
system is available in kit form as well as assembled. I recommend
the assembled components. As for Decoders each supplier
has diferent ones to suit your needs from simple units to sound/
dcc decoders. I have to agree with the performance of dcc. I have
some locos that have run bad on dc but are great on DCC. I
think the hardest part is understanding the terminology. However
it is worth the effort.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: DCC Beginner
Posted by Mike Seier on April 09, 2000, 03:36pm
Carl, I had the MRC 2000 and decided to upgrade. I called
Tony's; and talked to them about the different systems. they were
very helpful. I decided to go with Digitrax's Empire builder. the
difference between 28 versus 128 speed steps is unbelievable!! I
highly recommend it....The little extra cost is well worth it.
LED's for Power Shield III
Posted by Roger Robar on April 01, 2000, 04:19pm
Anyone know what to use for LED indicator lights to install on the
newer Power Shield III circuit breaker? I would like them to be
mounted on my fascia. Tony hasn't answered my inquiry yet. TIA,
Roger
Re: LED's for Power Shield III
Posted by Dennis Smerz on April 03, 2000, 02:35pm
I have three P/S III's and I just used a standard round red LED
wired from the pc board to the LED mounted in my control/
indicator panel. No resistor is needed. I chose to have it flash
when a short is in progress. Per the instructions, remember to
cut the trace link on the pc board between the "+" and "-" solder
points when using the LED indicator.
wanted : Used MRC 2000
Posted by Kelly on March 31, 2000, 04:51pm
I am possibly in the market for a good used MRC 2000 system.
Just starting in N-scale and want good system for good price. Email
me at heaton@hsnp.com if you have one or know of one.
Re: wanted : Used MRC 2000
Posted by Norman Beveridge on March 31, 2000, 08:54pm
I don't think the MRC system will cut it for N scale. The
decoders are too large. Besides, if you want a great system for
the money, consider NCE. I don't know if the MRC system will
work with someone else's N scale decoders -- if so, OK
Re: wanted : Used MRC 2000
Posted by Tomas Szoboszlai on April 01, 2000, 09:10am
The MRC 2000 works with the basic functions of DCC
compatible decoders. No problem for N-scale. The advice to use
non-MRC decoders is good.
mailto:tomassz@banet.net
Re: wanted : Used MRC 2000
Posted by Evans on April 03, 2000, 05:38pm
Kelly I tried to send you e-mail to heaton@hsnp.com but it didn't
go through. I have what you are looking for. My e-mail is
evansh@unidial.com. I'm not sure if I can use this BBS for
selling it so I won't put info here. Contact me at above e-mail if
you want further info.
ROUNDHOUSE BOX CAB
Posted by DOUGLAS ALLEN on March 30, 2000, 08:17am
DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE OR ADVICE ABOUT
RE-POWERING THE MDC/ROUNDHOUSE BOX CAB
DIESEL ? IT COMES WITH A PRIMITIVE OPEN FRAME
MOTOR AND I WANT TO UPGRADE THE LOCO.
Re: ROUNDHOUSE BOX CAB
Posted by Andy Bell on March 30, 2000, 10:10pm
I have about 5 of those items and
am working on the same idea. So far
I have one unit that I did some
machining on, that did work but I'm
trying to do the job without the
machining. Will let you know soon
how it came out.
Back EMF Consists
Posted by Jim Homoki on March 29, 2000, 10:01pm
I'll be setting up some locos with Back EMF decoders (DZ121 and
DH140U) soon. Has anybody using these experienced any
performance problems mixing various combinations of BEMF and
regular decoders when several diesels are MU'ed together?
Ditch Lights
Posted by Mark M on March 29, 2000, 09:40am
Anyone installed Details West Ditch lights on their DCC units and
used the DW bulbs that come with them? DW does not include a
rating for the bulb so I'm not sure what size resistor I may need.
Any advise for putting chip resistors right on the Digitrax decoder
boards? (looks awfully small, though the Digitrax instrucions
mention puting them here!) Also, any advise for running the Ditch
Light wires on an HO scale Atlas C30-7?
Well, lots of ditch light questions here. Any help would be greatly
appreciated!
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

NEED MORE POWER
Posted by DAVID on March 25, 2000, 12:28am
I Just started with a MRC 2000
IM using a power pack to power the unit. I do not want to spend the
200 for the 8amp MRC power sup. Can I use a 6amp Bat charger
with out messing the unit up.
I have about 300 + feed of track.
Can I put a 2nd power pack on line
how can I boost the power with out the cost
Please E mail Me
Dlangf5066@aol.com
Re: NEED MORE POWER
Posted by Leonard Stern on March 25, 2000, 10:47am
David: I use Digitrax system which requires a 16v (up to 8
amps) AC. power supply. I'm not sure about MRC but if the unit
is not particular about AC or DC then a battery charger(which is
DC only) properly hooked up will work.
Track and Switches
Posted by Frank Russell on March 24, 2000, 05:01pm
I am planning to expand my HO layout, and would like opinions on
what track and switch types to use. My current layout uses Atlas
brass track and switches. I plan to go with nickel silver track, but
should I use Atlas, PECO, or something else? Code 100 or another
height? What type of switches and switch machines do people
recommend? Thanks.
Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Dennis Smerz on March 27, 2000, 01:49pm
Frank, I was out of model trains for over 25 years. 14 months
ago I decided I'd get back into HO again and go all DCC. Most
of my stuff dates back to 1952 thru 1960 (Mantua, Tyco, and
some Lionel, yes HO). I had all brass track and switches
(turnouts). I went with Digitrax Chief system, n/s 100 code track
(Atlas), n/s turnouts (Peco: insulfrog)and slow motion switch
machines (Tortoise). I have 225 ft of main track and 60+ ft of
sidings and yards. I've had no problems with this combination.
Everything adapts well to DCC including old locos and new
decoders.
Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on March 27, 2000, 03:08pm
Hi Frank,
I prefer code 100. Appearance is of less significance to me than
reliability, And I can't help but believe that the smaller rail codes
are more spindly and more easily kinked.
Right now, I have a combination of Atlas (Customline III) and
Peco turnouts. They're of fairly similar quality. But the "locking"
feature of the Peco points really can't be beat for reliability if
you're using twin-coil switch machines. If you're using the stallmotor
variety, though, like Tortoise, either turnout would be fine.
In that regard, the Atlas is less expensive.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Norman Beveridge on March 28, 2000, 03:56pm
Code 100 NS is good for someone just starting out. Being very
robust, it is very good also for an old hand. With proper
weathering and ballasting, code 100 has a very nice appearance.
Some people prefer scale height rail, however, and I find code
83 to be almost as structurally strong as code 100. Almost. It
does require a bit more care. It does look a bit better, but most
people would not notice. (I also like 70, 55, and 40, but it is not
for everyone.) Any area that is not easy to maintain should be in
code 100.
Avoid brass rail like the plague. I know some people get away
with it, but the cost difference is small and not worth the risk.
Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Norman Beveridge on March 28, 2000, 04:04pm
For turnouts, I would hand lay everything if I had the patience. I
would insulate the throw bar, hard wire the points to the
associated stock rails, and insulate the frog. With today's all
wheel pick up you do not need power routing, and with DCC
you don't want power routing.
When I use commercial turnouts, I prefer Atlas and Shinohara
(Walthers). Both have electrical problems. For the Atlas, the right
combination of metal wheels (cars as well as locos) can short
where the point rails approach toe frog. For the Shinohara, the
clearance at the open point can sometimes short to the back of a
metal wheel. I do not like the appearance of Peco, though some
people swear by them.
Re: Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on March 29, 2000, 01:28pm
Hi Norman,
When you say Atlas has shorting problems at the frog, I think
you are probably speaking about Snap switches. The Custom-
Line III has an absolutely huge non-conducting frog area, where
it is hard to imagine a short happening.
I have DCC, but I do power-route these frogs. But *only* the
frogs. I find the unpowered portion of the frogs is so large that
even an all-wheel powered loco can stall on the frog, if you are
unfortunate enough to have one wheelset over the frog while the
other wheelset encounters a dirty track section. I like to do a lot
of slow switching, so the chances of such a stall happening for
me would be even greater without the use of power-routed
frogs.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Norman Beveridge on March 30, 2000, 11:31am
You are correct that the newer Atlas Custom Line turnouts have
a large dead frog and do not have a shorting problem. The older
Custom Line turnouts do have a problem, however, because the
frog was formed from the plastic molded around the rails. These
are not Snap Switches, although the construction is similar.
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Joe Binish on March 30, 2000, 02:41pm
A friend who has a large operating layout(15-20 people for 4
hours) uses code 70 track(micro eng.) and Shinohara and ME
turnouts, with some tweeking. We have had very little in the way
of kinking track despite temp and humidity problems.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Andy Bell on March 30, 2000, 10:17pm
Am working on a large modular setup
and we have used Shinohara points
[English discription]and found that
we definately have to isolate the
rails to the frog section. We also
wire to the frog and power it off
the switch contacts of the tortoise
motor.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on April 04, 2000, 08:38am
Hi Joe,
When I expressed my concern about the lower-code rails being
more easily kinked, I wasn't refering to their use after installation,
or due to the effects of temperature and humidity. I was
referring to the level of skill required during installation. I just
have the feeling that the smaller codes require more skill to
install kink-free.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Track and Switches
Posted by Bob Miller on April 04, 2000, 08:54am
Not after you have laid a little bit of small rail. I have handlaid
code 83 and 70 in HO and also a little code 55 on industrial
spurs. I have also laid 83 and 70 using commercial stuff. Two
things important, use one or more rail gauges, the 3 point kind
are best, and use your eye and a straight edge to keep the rails
straight. It just takes a little practice, but unless you have a
handicap with your hands/arms, you should pick it up fairly
quickly.
Bad Decoder
Posted by Bob Foltz on March 17, 2000, 10:17am
I had a NCE DA102 installed in a Stewart F-3 that worked fine
until suddenly one day it would only run in one direction. When I
reversed the direction it would only sit and hum. I reprogramed it
but it made no difference. Finally I replaced the decoder and
everything is fine. Anybody have any idea why the old decoder
went bad?
Bob Foltz
Re: Bad Decoder
Posted by Norman Beveridge on March 17, 2000, 08:42pm
You must have let the smoke out of the reverse side final power
component. It took me a while, but I finally figured out that it is
the smoke in an electronic component that makes it work,
because if you ever let it out, it will never work again.
This used to happen sometimes when I was using Dynatrol, and
either the reverse transister overloaded and burned, or the
reverse leg of the diiode bridge overloaded and burned, resulting
in one direction only. Don't get me wrong, DCC is not Dynatrol.
But somehow each decoder must have a final power component,
i.e. that component which carries the actual electrical load. I
suspect that somehow it overloaded and burned, which let the
smoke out (even if you didn't see it). I hope this was an accident,
and not something in the loco's wiring.
Re: Bad Decoder
Posted by Leonard Stern on March 17, 2000, 09:44pm
Bob: I believe Norman is correct in that somehow the reverse
module stopped functioning. Have you tried to test the decoder
with a tester to be sure. I do not know the return policy Of NCE
but you may wish to contact them. Perhaps they will repair for a
small cost. Regards. leonard Stern, email: printmore1@aol.com
Status of radio throttles
Posted by Dave H on March 14, 2000, 08:15pm
Any new ETA for the radio throttles?
Re: Status of radio throttles
Posted by Bob Miller on March 14, 2000, 10:02pm
If you are talking NCE, I expect to be dead and buried before
they show up. Have been trying to get NCE stuff and have been
told they are greatly backlogged, so I have a policy now of
believing it when I see one of anything.
Re: Re: Status of radio throttles
Posted by Norman Beveridge on March 17, 2000, 08:48pm
In a recent exchange with Jim Scorse (NCE), he says components
are very difficult to get and have long lead times. A local
Digitrax dealer says they have the same problem. Seems these
vendors buy in small qualtities, and cannot get any kind of
priority from a supplier, at least not at a price that the hobby
market could bear.
I'm with you -- I'll believe it when it shows up at my door step.
Certainly can't get DCC stuff in the shops or by mail! This could
potentially hurt the market if the vendors develop a reputation of
not delivering.
Re: Re: Re: Status of radio throttles
Posted by Dave H on March 20, 2000, 09:41pm
Its too bad too since there is a market out there chomping at the
bit. I know at least two people who who have reserved or have
money allocated to get the radio throttles as soon as they are
available. A local modeler has the EZ Dcc radio throttle and its
hard to accept that NCE is behind the technology curve.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Status of radio throttles
Posted by Bob Miller on March 20, 2000, 11:03pm
Know what you mean, Dave. I like the NCE stuff, but it has
been a long drawn out affair to get my railroad cut over. Has
taken a year to finally get the needed components to completely
convert from Dynatrol to NCE. I wanted to be able to do the
radio I thought, but honestly have now lost interest. Will stay
with what I have.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Status of radio throttles
Posted by Roger Robar on March 24, 2000, 07:02pm
It's my understanding that the problem with NCE getting their
wireless control out is the lack of components. Remember this
wireless control IS the same system as your remote car door
locks. The auto companys have the supply all sewed up. It's a
matter of supply and demand, autos win hands down. Believe
me, NCE has the knowledge to be a leader in the industry. NCE
had to announce their wireless system after Digitrax came out
with there's, it's called marketing. I'll wait for mine, it will come
someday!
Roger
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Status of radio throttles
Posted by Bob Miller on March 24, 2000, 07:34pm
That seems to be a typical response to any shortage for NCE, for
the booster I have on order since first of the year, and the throttle
I also have on order, lack of components. I have no doubt that is
true, since the others seem to be having similar problems. But
pardon me for not waiting for radio, I have a railroad to run, not
to sit and look at while waiting for components.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Status of radio thrott
Posted by Robert Jackson on March 24, 2000, 10:55pm
I agree, I have a railroad to run and as convenient as it might be,
I will take a pass on radio control. Besides, I have had the
experience that my neighbor's garage door opener opened the
trunk of my car: a mind blowing puzzler until one day I was
standing beside my car when she opened her garage door with
the remote and pop! up came my car's trunk lid! I have also had
the experience that an airplane flying low overhead on approach
to the airfield opened my garage door. Always the same airplane
flying the same approach path. What sort of chaos would result
from that sort of interference with my railroad.
Why not try...
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on March 25, 2000, 11:09am
...infrared, if it's available from your manufacturer? I have no
need for it right now, with my layout as small as it is, but one of
the reasons I went with Digitrax was so that I could expand as
necessary in the manner I saw fit. Besides, my DT-100IR is
ready to go as is; I just need one gizmo to plug into the booster
in question, and hey-presto, it's IR! Just a thought...
Re: Status of radio throttles
Posted by Allen on March 28, 2000, 08:17pm
Where is th Digitrax DT300?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Status of radio th
Posted by Bob Miller on April 01, 2000, 01:01pm
Word is that NCE is shipping again. I received notice that a
booster I had on order since December is coming and that the
CAB04 throttles are again in stock. but, no word on the radio
control aspect.
Athearn 2-8-2 with Soundtraxx
Posted by Ed Bradbury on March 04, 2000, 02:04pm
I would like to install the Soundtraxx DSD-150 I have into my
Atearn 2-8-2. What is the best way to install a oval speaker, DSD
and the loco's hasness, and seal off the tender for use as a
soundbox. Would it be better to use the tender harness hole for the
speaker or drill the coal load? I have done a similar installatio for an
AHM steamer.
Re: Athearn 2-8-2 with Soundtraxx
Posted by david d zuhn on April 02, 2000, 06:53pm
I had very good luck with an oval speaker under my coal load,
without even drilling it out at all, much less replacing it.
I built a soundbox which slid right underneath the coal load,
using the sides of the tender for the sides of the box. I had to
slice out a couple of ribs inside the tender, but that was easy
enough.
Pull the unused wires out of the Athearn bundle between tender
& engine, and it will be much less stiff and less prone to causing
derailments.
I found this to be an easy installation for sound, and maybe
someday I'll get around to drilling and/or replacing the coal load,
but you really don't have to.
Sagami Can Motors
Posted by Brooks Stover on March 02, 2000, 10:02pm
I am trying to find three new and unused 22x40mm Sagami can
motors with double 2.4 mm shafts. Walthers and NWSL no longer
carry them and their replacements are too noisy for me. Will pay top
dollar. Any help in locating them is appreciated!
LBF WC Hi-Cube box cars
Posted by Rod Peters on March 01, 2000, 04:05pm
I recently purchased 3 hi-cube box cars manufactured by LBF
Company. It wasn't until I got home that I realized that the road
numbers on the models, 51529, 51530 and 51531, didn't seem right.
I began to investigate and found that when E&C Shops produced
the hi-cube box car they used numbers like 21535. I then checked
various videos and web sites relating to the Wisconsin Cetral and as
far as I can determine, the prototype uses the 51000 number series
for gondolas and the 21000 number series for hi-cube boxcars. If
that is in fact the case then LBF Company has made a mistake in
numbering their model of WC Hi-Cube box cars. So far LBF
Company has not responded to a similar e-mail sent to them. Can
anyone confirm this numbering?
Thanks,
Rod Peters
Re: LBF WC Hi-Cube box cars
Posted by Rod Peters on March 03, 2000, 10:21pm
Fyi - I have done some investigating and according the Wisconsin
Central's public tracking system, the numbers that LBF
Company is using on their model of WC's hi-cube box cars do
not exist in the railroad's equipment register. - Rod
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 127

Decoder Uncoupling
Posted by Chuck on March 01, 2000, 12:07pm
Are any commercial firms working on decoder uncoupling of cars?
128
Re: Decoder Uncoupling
Posted by Dennis Smerz on March 07, 2000, 08:40pm
If you are really interested in decoder uncoupling there is a
website called "RR-CirKits". They make electronic components
for model railroading. Dick Bronson has a very interesting
presentation on this subject and what he has done. Pictures and
all! The web address is: "http://www.rr-cirkits.com/". Look on
the left hand panel and look for "DCC Controlled Couplers"
LE105XF
Posted by Rod Peters on February 29, 2000, 05:41pm
I have installed an LE105XF decoder in an OMI brass deisel
engine. I can program the decoder from a Digitrax program track
and the engine will move down the track for a ways and then come
to a dead stop. A second or two it will move down the track again. I
have observed this same behavior while holding the engine and
letting the wheels turn. The engine ran very well prior to installing
the decoder. I have checked for obvious electrical shorts by
removing the shell and isolating the decoder with no luck. I have
connected an Amp meter and Volt meter. The stall current of the
motor at 14V is .8amps. This sudden stopping occurs at any voltage
and is more frequent in reverse and has already fried one decoder
for me. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions.
Thanks,
Rod Peters
Re: LE105XF
Posted by Bob Miller on February 29, 2000, 07:25pm
I have had very poor results converting my OMI brass to DCC.
I have had things similar to what you describe happen, and in
most cases it has been a wire getting pinched in the shell or
pickup wires around the trucks shorting. I have two OMI brass
diesels that have become dummies. Good Luck.
Re: LE105XF
Posted by E.T. on February 29, 2000, 08:43pm
I have had this happen to me. The first thing that comes to mind
is if you have another throttle plugged in the system it might
have the same address but only is in reverse. Happy Rails, E.T.
Re: LE105XF
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 29, 2000, 10:28pm
To Rod and others: The starting and stopping in fwd and
especially in reverse seems to be that the motor is shorting out
on the frame. Ensure that the motor is completly isolated by
testing with a ohm meter. With the probes attached and the motor
isolated the reading should be nil i.e. infinite resistance. If this
checks out then joggle the motor in its mounting to ensure that
the fwd or reverse motion does not cause the motor to touch the
frame. This will show up on the meter as full reading i.e. no
resistance. I have installed decoders into 6 brass engines and this
jerking and stop and go motion was caused by the loose motor
mountings. One other thing to check is the lower brush pad.
Sometimes this is soldered directly to the motor. If so unsolder
and straigten out the tab so that the brush pads are isolated from
the motor ground. Hope this helps.
Re: LE105XF
Posted by Rod Peters on March 01, 2000, 03:07pm
Thank you everyone for your responses and suggestions. It
turned out to be a faulty motor. After completely removing the
motor from the frame and isolating it from any part of the brass
locomotive it continued to stop and jerk as described in my
original post. I then replaced the motor with a motor from
another OMI engine and the problem no longer exists and my
brass engine is running great on DCC. I can only assume that
the original motor has an intermittant short within itself. Now I
need to find a source to replace the faulty motor or open it up
and see if it's something I can correct myself.
Thanks much everyone.
Rod
Re: Re: LE105XF
Posted by Leonard Stern on March 01, 2000, 04:53pm
Rod: OMI has a web page but not sure of the address. You
probably can get it from any model railroader magazine. If you
let the company know that you have a defective motor they will
probably replace it. Regards. Leonard.
Re: Re: Re: LE105XF
Posted by Rod Peters on March 01, 2000, 07:06pm
The motor doesn't seem to be totally defective. It seems to run
fine without the decoder but then behaves with stops and starts
with the decoder. I did find the OMI website at
www.omibrass.com but it is currently under construction.
However, they do list an e-mail address which I used to send
them an inquiry regarding this issue. Walthers does list an OMI
12V motor with flywheel in their online catalog for about $16. If
OMI chooses not to replace it I can always order one.
Re: Re: Re: Re: LE105XF
Posted by Dave Chance on March 01, 2000, 07:44pm
Rod,
There were reports about a year ago that some Beuhler motors
that would not run properly when connected to a DCC decoder. I
think that OMI uses this motor. The Chinese built OMI motors
seem to be a nearly exact copy and these are the motors available
from Walthers. I have several of the Chinese copies but have yet
to install and use with a decoder. I will test them by connecting
to a decoder and let you know the results.
Dave
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LE105XF
Posted by Bob Miller on March 02, 2000, 12:58pm
For what it is worth, I have several of the OMI chassis running
under railpower shells, and they do just fine with decoders. My
problems have been with the brass locos from OMI, which I
assumed (maybe falsely) had the same motor.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

OMI/Buhler motors
Posted by Rod Peters on March 02, 2000, 10:30pm
Dave, you hit the nail on the head. The problem is the Beuhler
motors that OMI uses. They are not reliable when used with
decoders. While at the hobby shop today I learned that OMI is
now using Cannon. I also noticed that Walthers carries OMI
motors. That would be very helpful if you could connect one up
and post the results.
Thank you,
Rod
----Original Message--------
Rod,
There were reports about a year ago that some Beuhler motors
that would not run properly when connected to a DCC decoder. I
think that OMI uses this motor. The Chinese built OMI motors
seem to be a nearly exact copy and these are the motors available
from Walthers. I have several of the Chinese copies but have yet
to install and use with a decoder. I will test them by connecting
to a decoder and let you know the results.
Dave
Re: OMI/Buhler motors
Posted by DJRock on March 03, 2000, 12:24am
If I remember correctly I read someplace that you need a special
decoder for "coreless" motors. I don't know about Buhler
motors but I beleive Canon are coreless. You could check this
out with Tony. Hope this helps.
DJR
Re: OMI/Buhler motors
Posted by Rod Peters on March 03, 2000, 09:44pm
Fyi. This is from OMI. -Rod
Subject: Buhler motors
Rodney,
We indeed have switched to Cannon motors. The switch had
nothing to do with DCC. Ajin simply decided to use a Japanese
friend which runs Cannon motors. The motors are both very
good. I do not have an extra supply of Cannon motors at this time.
OMI does have some Chinese made motors that are basically the
same size and fitting as the Buhler. We have versions with and
without Flywheels that are reasonably priced at about $16.00 and
$14.00 respectively. I think it would be best to support your local
hobby shop if you choose to order as they seem to be up to speed
with our products. The item numbers are 2394 and 2395 found in
the In Stock HO Parts section of our price list.
Sincerely,
Brian Marsh, OMI
Stewart FTs
Posted by Mike Tillger on February 27, 2000, 03:19pm
Has anybody installed a Soundtraxx decoder in to a Stewart
FT(A&B)set? What did you do as far as the marker, headlight, and
numberboard lights? Any help would be appreciated.
lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Bob Foltz on February 24, 2000, 10:12am
I've installed several NCE D102US decoders and have had no luck
getting the headlight to work with other than half-wave power. I'm
using 14V bulbs connected to the blue and white wires. What am I
doing wrong?
Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 24, 2000, 11:59am
Hello Bob: According to the digitrax decoder manual p24; half
wave operation is when the lights are connected directly to the
right and left rail pickups. Full wave operation is when the
blue(raw +) is connected to one light lead and the other lamp
lead is connected to the white(fwd) or yellow (rev) wires of the
decoder. Note that none of these light decoder wires are
connected to the rail pickups. The fact that you are using NCE
decoders is not a problem because NCE and Digitrax is very
compatible. If all the wiring is connected OK then the function
key F0 should control the lights; i.e. fwd light on when loco is
fwd and rev light goes on automatically when loco is reversed.
One other point did you test the decoder before install and check
that all functions worked? Hope this helps. leonard. email:
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Roger Robar on February 24, 2000, 03:58pm
For what it's worth, Tony has said when you program a decoder
always make sure the headlite is off. I've used many NCE D102-
EU decoders with no problems. Roger
Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Don Vollrath on February 24, 2000, 05:21pm
I've never had that problem w/ D102-US. Wire up another 14 v
light using blue & yellow wires. You should be able to turn it
ON & OFF using Fctn #3. Have you inadvertently programmed
in one of the Mars light features?. Go back to square one. Turn
the headlight OFF and try programming the decoder again. What
DCC controller are you using? Are you using a programming
track or main-line programming? Was other equipment running
at the time?
Re: Re: Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Bob Foltz on February 25, 2000, 09:52am
I haven't had time to try all your suggestions yet--I'll try to get to
them this weekend. Now to answer some quastions: I haven't
tested all the functions of the decoder, but I've had this problem
with all of them I've tried to install lights with, so I'm thinking
I'm doind something wrong. The bulb (14v) tests out okay and
is wired to the blue and white wires of the D102US. I'm using
an NCE Powerhouse Pro system and programing on a seperate
programing track. I've tried turning the light on and off with the
light function switch of the "hammerhead" controler. I can't
remmember for sure if I tried the "0" function switch, but I think
I did.
I'll let you know how things work out after I attack the problem
again this weekend.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 129

130
Re: Re: Re: Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 25, 2000, 11:12am
The fact that you did not test all the functions would be of no
concern since all your other NCE decoders are affected the same
way. Anyway check the wiring out and apply suggestions from
the other guys who seem to have more experience with NCE. I
installed 4 NCE 102US and 2 102EU and have had no problems
with the lights. The difference with the US and EU is that the
EU supplies a non reversing fwd light. Keep in touch. Leonard,
NOTL., 905-468-5759 (tel and fax). email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Don Vollrath on February 28, 2000, 12:53pm
I always use 'programming on the main' with the power house
pro. Try that method, it might work better for some reason. [I've
never used my programming track output.]
Are you using and following the english word programming
prompts or forcing CV values to be specific decimal or hex
numbers? Follow the prompts. Supply data as decimal numbers.
DonV
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Roger Robar on February 28, 2000, 07:13pm
I always use the program track to program a new decoder
installation because it only has enough power to program and
not do damage to your decoder if you messed up the wiring, it
will save your lights and resistors too. I use the NCE PH pro
and have had no problems. I suggest you read the manual and
learn the ins and outs. RR
Re: Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Norman Beveridge on February 28, 2000, 08:18pm
I think Don is right about the wiring. Also, I want to suggest that
you NOT use 12 v. bulbs, as they are unrealistically bright, and
HOT (like melting plastic if you are not careful). You could
mount the bulb in a brass tube (if it fits), both as a guide and as a
heat sink. But using a 14 v. or even 16 v. bulb would lead to an
easier installation. And longer life for the bulb!
Re: Re: Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Bill Brandt on March 19, 2000, 09:09pm
The tech reference sheet for the decoder, on page 1, second to
the last check mark, says:
'2 function outputs reated for up to 40ma incandescent bulbs
(150 ma when used with leds or if a 22 to 33 ohm resistor is
used in series with the bulb).
Use this resistor with a 14 v bulb. You may be overdrawing the
out put and having the decoder shut off.
MAybe even use a larger resistor (try 100 ohm) to drop the
voltage for a less bright and more yellow light.
Good luck.
Re: Re: Re: Re: lights with NCE D102US
Posted by Norman Beveridge on March 21, 2000, 04:57pm
Due to heat, avoid the resistors if possible. If you use the bulbs
recommended in the decoder literature, the resistor should not be
needed. For instance, for a bright bulb, use Miniatronics 18-014-
10 14 v. bulb. For a dimmer, more yellow bulb, use 18-016-10
16 v. bulb. Both are 30 ma. bulbs, which is comfortably below
the 40 ma. limit. The 16 v. bulb will run less than 30 ma. of
course. Also, you cannot tie more than one bulb to each output,
but you do have a separate output for front and rear. If you need
Mars, etc., use a separate function for it (of course?!!!).
If you are a modern modeler and must have ditch lights, rig them
off a separate function output (you want this capability anyway)
using two 1.5 v. bulbs in series with about a 330+ ohm 1/2 watt
resistor (yields about 30 ma.).
Not having to deal with ditch lights, and the dimmer yellow light
of a 16 v. bulb, are some of the benefits of modeling earlier
periods.
TTX/SW12
Posted by Don Vollrath on February 22, 2000, 09:08am
From the pictures Tony posted it looks like the TTX/SW12 decoder
has contact pads for the rear headlight.
Has any one bought one and tried to fit into an HO Kato NW2?
How about a Walthers SW1?
DonV
Soundtraxx & Digitrax Genesis
Posted by Jim Galvin on February 21, 2000, 10:46pm
Can you use Digitrax's Genesis DCC system with steam and diesel
DSD from Soundtraxx
MRC decoders with Digitrax
Posted by Dick Foster on February 19, 2000, 07:47pm
I recently changed from an MRC Command 2000 unit to a Digitrax
system. I have had no problem changing the decoder addresses and
such on a few locos. The I found that I couldn't get the MRC
decoders to respond to the Digitrax system. They apparently see the
code being sent but when you put the system back on line, the locos
just sit there. Any suggestions out there? thanks in advance.
Re: MRC decoders with Digitrax
Posted by E.T. on February 19, 2000, 07:54pm
Try status edit. Pages 57-60 in the Digitrax user manual explains
this. Try status code 12,Common Baseline 14 step. Happy Rails
Re: MRC decoders with Digitrax
Posted by Dave Chance on February 20, 2000, 12:45am
The MRC decoders only accept 14 speed steps or 28 speed
steps. The Digitrax defaults to 128 speed steps. Use status edit
to set Digitrax to 14 or 28 speed steps for that address (MRC).
Set the MRC decoders to the same speed steps. That should do
it!
Riv Pass Cars
Posted by Phil Adams on February 18, 2000, 11:06am
I am trying to bring these Pass cars up to weight specs. I need to
add 2.5 ounces, however trying to find how to separate the bottom
and the top on the cars has me stumped because it looks like its all
one unit. Any suggestions?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Riv Pass Cars
Posted by E.T. on February 18, 2000, 11:26am
I have taken apart these cars. The roof separates from the body.
There are little tabs and if you take a flat object you can pry apart
the roof from the body. You have to be careful not to break the
roof overhang but it is doable. Good Luck, E.T.
Carbon Build Up
Posted by Harry Mackey on February 17, 2000, 09:38am
Having problems with Carbon build up on the engine wheels and
the pick up sytems on the buchmans. also believe there may be
some problems with the armitures and brushes. Any suggestions.
Yes I am using Command Control.
Re: Carbon Build Up
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on February 17, 2000, 04:03pm
Hi Harry,
I'd suggest using Goo Gone for the wheels and Conducta Lube
for the moter.
Sincerely,
Jean
Opening Cab of P2KSW
Posted by Don Vollrath on February 15, 2000, 09:22am
Glen Horowitz
Please describe how you got the P2K SW cab open to upgrade the
rear light. I'm afraid to poke and pry without knowing where the
latches are, or whether or not its glued on. What did you do w/ the
rear step handrails?
BTW - Tony said that his new drop-in decoder has a place to wire in
the rear lamp...Too bad it doesn't use the shell to pcb contacts.
Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on February 15, 2000, 10:02am
Yikes...it's been nearly a year since I installed that decoder! Well,
as I remember, you first need to pluck the TOPS of the handrails
from the body (The vertical ones beneath the lamp/numberboard
have to come out, not just the side rails). Their ends are lightly
glued but I wiggled them loose using the tips of a pair of sharp,
curved tweezers. I'm a little fuzzy on getting the cab off, but I
DO recall it was pretty self evident after the rails were rotated
out of the way. (Hey-I'm ALSO paranoid about poking and
prying..but if a klutz like me can do it, you'll have no prob).
Once the cab's off, the gray interior insert needs to come out; it
also holds the clear plastic lens material & the bulb. I think I
used a dab of silicone caulk to hold the new bulb in place too.
Then reassemble!
Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-P.S.
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on February 15, 2000, 10:14am
Whoops...as to your concern about the cab being glued on, it
ain't. As I said, after nearly a year I'm a wee bit fuzzy about the
precise locations of the tabs holding it on, but a bit of gentle
wiggling and examining will reveal all. I definitely remember
that when I reassembled it, I was confident that I'd be able to
repeat the process if necessary if the bulb burnt out. I think the
hardest part was getting a good grip on the tops of the handrails
to wiggle them free of their holes...slippery little devils:)
Looking at it now, I don't recall the exact geometry that made it
necessary to pull the handrails below the light/numberboard, but
I'm still sure it was required...cab's in a couple of pieces or
something. Wish I'd talked with you last year while it was fresh
in my mind!
Re: Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-P.S.
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 15, 2000, 11:14am
Don: I would like to add to Glenn's worthwhile comments. Pull
out (carefully) the handrails from the cab door and the handrails
from the cab to the steps. There is a small latch at the bottom of
the cab, just spread open the cab between the bottom and lift the
cab off. After doing what you will for the light lay the wire
through the channel and replacing the cab is easier than taking it
apart. I also used silicone to secure the bulb. You may also wish
to paint the bulb container black so that the light will not shine
through. Hope this helps. Leonard Stern, NOTL., email:
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-P.S.
Posted by Christian Olesen on February 25, 2000, 10:29pm
Well since I'll be ordering a set of P2K SW handrails anyway , I
figured since I have an extra 2 functions anyway, minus well go
for the rooftop beacon.
That cab is looking mighty crowded. Any suggestions?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-P.S.
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 25, 2000, 11:09pm
Christian: Go for it. From any normal viewing distance you
really can't see into the cab anyway (unless you are a rivet
counter) VBG. This loco has optional cold weather windows
included and if your model requires this it is even more difficult
to see inside. Good luck. Leonard. Email:printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-P.S.
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on February 26, 2000, 05:24am
You might think about heading to Radio Shack and getting some
of their ultra thin magnet wire...used for winding coils, motor
armatures, etc. The stuff's coated with a paint-like insulator; just
be sure your joints are insulated as well. Using this and a little
grain of rice bulb, perhaps colored with transparent orange
enamel, would probably yield some nifty looking results...
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-P.S.
Posted by Christian Olesen on February 26, 2000, 10:45am
Glenn and Leonard - Thank you for your support through this,
my first decoder install (now if only I'd be an over acheiver at
work I could afford to pay someone to do this VBG!) The rough
plan is to use a Detail Associates beacon and lens with a Cir-Kit
Concepts micro-bulb (1.5v, 15ma). I can drill out lens leaving
enough room to insert one of these tiny bulbs. I like the enamel
wire idea, perhaps with some stik-tak that Tony recommends.
One related thought on routing electricity through interior of the
loco. Has anyone experimented with circuit board trace pens on
the inside of a loco? Plastic compatibility would probably be the
biggest concern. If it isn't, then you could just "draw" your
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 131

132
wiring and use electrically conductive adhesive to attach a wire
or other connection (I work for one of the worlds largest
adhesives companies-we're working on adhesives for solder
replacement). Anyone done this or similar?
Christian
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-
P
Posted by E.T. on February 26, 2000, 01:09pm
Christian,could you direct me to more information on the
adhesive solder replacement. Sounds interesting. Happy Rails,
E.T.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-
P
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 26, 2000, 03:07pm
Christian: I thought I was a glutton for punishment but you must
be congradulated for doing a LL P2K SW9/1200 for your first
install. It is a very difficult installation certainly not P and P even
with Tony's new decoder for this engine. As far as the other
questions I am not qualified to make a suggestion. Perhaps the
guys on the digitrax onelist would have some suggestions for
you. Sure would like to know how it all works out for you so
keep me posted if you wish. Regards. Leonard, NOTL., email:
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Opening Cab of P2KSW-P
Posted by Christian on February 26, 2000, 04:47pm
To E.T. Regarding electrically conductive adhesives, I'd rather
not post information regarding my employer on this list so
please contact me directly at ccolesen@ct1.nai.net
Opening Cab of P2KSW-P
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on February 26, 2000, 06:25pm
Just one additional thought...I'd recommend just using the 12V
microbulbs that Tony sells here. No fooling with resistor values,
no extra connections to complicate things and take up space...I
do subscribe to the KISS principle, and it's been working.
BTW, If you haven't yet done so, I think you'll find actually
DOING the installation is simpler than it sounds...the P2K SW-
9/1200 was only my second decoder/light bulbs installation, and
was not only relatively painless, but has been rock solid reliable
for almost a year now! Believe me...I'm speaking as a member in
good standing of the International Brotherhood of Hopeless
Klutzes...just go to it, take your time, and have some fun!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Opening Cab of P2K
Posted by Norman Beveridge on February 28, 2000, 08:10pm
Except for the cab light, I did not find the P2K SW9 to be
difficult. I guess that anyone who put Dynatrol receivers in locos
would understand what I am saying -- nowadays the P&P
decoders have us spoiled! Putting a NCE D102 into this loco is
just not that bad, IF you realize that you don't have to use the
wires on the decoder! Pull out the loco's diode light board, and
drop the decoder in its place. Take one wire off the decoder at a
time, and solder the corresponding loco wire (trimmed to a
comfortable length)to the solder pad on the decoder. Then take
off the next decoeder wire, etc. The hood light can be done the
same way.
N-scale decoder install
Posted by Jim on February 13, 2000, 06:14pm
Hi everyone. I'm in the process of deciding on a Dcc system for my
N-scale layout. From the information that I have seen, the Digitrax
Empire Builder seems to be the way to go. My question is the ease
of decoder installations in N-scale locos such as the Atlas RS-3.
Since I am operating more 4-axle deisels, the room under the shell
is limited compared to the SD40-2's and other larger locomotives.
Are replacement frames the way to go or are there other ways to
make the existing frame work in my RS-3? I also plan on operating
GP-7's and 9's, GP30's, 35's and F3 units. My last question is
decoders. Is it possible to purchase a Lenz decoder and operate it
with the Digitrax system? Thanks for your time.
My E-mail address is
JJ Depot@aol.com
Re: N-scale decoder install
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 13, 2000, 07:59pm
Since I am HO I will try to answer some of your questions. I too
started out with a Big Boy (now Empire Builder) and shortly
after moved up to the Chief. The reason I chose Digitrax is that I
feel that with their Loconet system any additions in the future
will be just that an addition not an obsolescent. As far as using
Lenz decoders with a Digitrax system they are compatible and
easy to program. Hope this helps you. Regards. Leonard Stern,
Email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: N-scale decoder install
Posted by Bill Herbert on February 14, 2000, 10:48am
Jim, The Empire Builder is a very good choice. Since patience &
ingenuity both come into play, you'll have to decide whether to
use replacement frames or your personal skills. I recently put a
DZ 121 in a GP-9, but had to sacrifice the rear light to get it in.
More frame modification might have let me keep the light, but I
wanted it done quickly. I am using both DIGITRAX and LENZ
decoders with good results. You will need to status edit for any
decoders that are not 128 speed steps. Your manuals will show
you how. Regards,william.herbert@gsa.gov
Re: N-scale decoder install
Posted by Anthony on February 14, 2000, 01:23pm
I have instaled 20 Digitrax decoders in Atlas/Kato N scale RS3
mechanisms without trouble. The frame needs to be modified
and the rear light module removed. You can purchase one
commercial frame (Aztex Manufacturing) and use it as a guide
for your own modifications. I always run all my units in sets of
two that are hard-wired together and have no longer any problem
with electical pickup.
aknable@calpoly.edu
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Decoder installation in a LL P2K GP20
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 13, 2000, 12:15pm
Hello all: I will be installing a DH121 into the LL GP20. Since
there is no socket on the board I will be hardwiring the decoder
wires to the numbered solder pads on the board follwing the
NMRA standards. However before I do this is there any modifications
I have to make on the board? I wish to retain the original lights
and do not want to blow them or damage the light functions on the
decoder.Any advice will be appreciated. Leonard Stern, NOTL.,
905-468-5759, Email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: Decoder installation in a LL P2K GP20
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 15, 2000, 11:48pm
Hi All: still waiting for an answer to my question. Any help will
be appreciated. Regards. leonard stern. email:
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Decoder installation in a LL P2K GP20
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on February 16, 2000, 12:46pm
I've found it much simpler to remove the light board, original
lights and all stock wiring. I then replace the lamps with 12V
bulbs with 23ohm resisters and hardwire the DH121 to motor,
track pick-ups and lamps. I tape the decoder into the space left
vacant by the lamp board. If the GP20 is anything like the GP7
or GP30 (I don't have a GP20) this should work fine. I have
three LLP2K engines wired like this.
Re: Re: Decoder installation in a LL P2K GP20
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 16, 2000, 05:49pm
Hello Bernard: Much thanks for your reply. If I stay with the
DH121 I will do as you suggest i.e. remove the board and hard
wire the decoder direct except to use the 1.5 v orig. lights I will
use 220 ohm resistors. I may decide to go with a DN 141 in
which case I will remove the small weight at the rear end of the
GP20. If so have you any suggestions on this? Leonard Stern.
Email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: Decoder installation in a LL P2K GP20
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on February 16, 2000, 09:55pm
Leonard: Not shure why you'd go to a DN141 unless you want
the FX features but then why not the DH140?
I have no experience with the GP20 - other LLP2K engines
don't have removable weights in rear. Usually removing the
stock lamp board makes plenty of room for any decoder. I
suggest you try higher resistance values for the stock bulbs -
you can always reduce the values but if its too low you'll burn
the bulbs. There are too many types of 1.5volt bulbs out there to
follow any rules. I've burned several trying to abtain brightness.
That's why I replace them with 12volt 50 mA bulbs with 22ohm
resisters - they've always worked and I don't have to go back
and replace them.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Decoder installation in a LL P2K G
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 17, 2000, 12:11am
Bernard: The LL P2K GP20 has a removable weight. Unfortunately
the width is just slightly smaller than the width of a DH
decoder, so that is why I may go the DN route. As far as the
lights are concerned I try as much as possible to use the orig.
lights so I do not have to buy extra lights at 1.98 for 2 (CDN $)
whereas 150 or 220 ohm resistors are 25 for a buck. Also I,m a
glutton for doing it the hard way (vbg). Thanks for the advice
and I will keep you posted once I complete the install. Regards.
Leonard Stern, email:printmore1@aol.com
PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Chris Olesen on February 09, 2000, 09:54am
Any recommendations for resistor for the following: HO PK2
SW9/1200, Lenz LE105XF replaces factory light board, retaining
factory bulbs. I've looked for info on the bulbs in the loco literature
but could not find any. Thanks
Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by DJRock on February 09, 2000, 11:14pm
I read in Loys Toys newsletter
to use a 150 ohm resistor. This was inreferance to installing a
Digitrax DN140 or DZ121 decoder.
Hope this helps.
DJR
Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 10, 2000, 12:34am
I used 150 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in my installation. I removed all
the diodes and soldered in the resistors between the blue, white
and yellow wires. The decoder is a DZ121 which was placed in
the front weight after milling out the space required. This
installation kept the original lights and board (minus the diodes)
so that the brass contacts of the lights on the shell could still be
used. All wiring should be as neat and tidy as possible otherwise
there may be difficulty getting the shell on and the contacts to
work. Hope this helps you. Leonard Stern. Email:
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on February 10, 2000, 08:54am
Yikes...and I thought I was doin' it the hard way by simply
pulling the cab apart and soldering in a 12V 30mA microbulb at
each end! (Took about 20 minutes) LOL!
Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 10, 2000, 11:45am
Glenn: I am a glutton for punishment and too much of a "leave it
as original" person. If I get a 2nd SW9 I will install the decoder
in place of the orig. board and change the lights to 12v. No
milling and no resistors. Gee; it will be so easy. LOL. Regards.
Leonard
Re: Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Chris Olesen on February 10, 2000, 12:16pm
Leonard, Glenn & all,
Thank you very much for your help. Although the LE105XF
preserves the weight, It is by no means a drop in. And of course,
I had to cut the tabs on the motor ends that held the factory board
so I can't use Tony's new drop-in decoder! Being my first-ever
install didn't help either! Don't know how I would have gotten
through it without all of your help - thanks again!
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134
Re: Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on February 10, 2000, 02:26pm
Yepper. I'm a glutton for punishment too...just got done putting a
Soundtraxx DSD in a Spectrum Light Mountain...ALL
hardwired, circuit board clipped & discarded...light bulb moved
forward and light conduit discarded (it was a wussy little light
before) and a SEVENTH wire squished into the cab PC board to
use the sound synched firebox flicker...AIIEEEEEEEEE..
She shore is purty though:)
Re: Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on February 10, 2000, 02:30pm
Whoops...got sidetracked there...my L&N SW9 has a Lenz
LE103XF supplied by Tony last February...but if I had to do any
milling, I don't remember it...fit well in there.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Dennis Smerz on February 11, 2000, 10:53am
Me too! Just finished a SW9 decoder install. Removed old board
and installed new 12 V lights (cab and forward). Had to go back
and put in a 55 ohm 1/4 watt resistor to the cab light and open up
the grey cover that holds the light in the cab roof. Looks pretty
neat now. A little light gets into the cab and you can see inside.
Now I have to do a little painting on the figures and interior.
Found the heat from the bulb was starting to destort the roof. I
caught it in time. So, for those of you that have put in the 12 V
bulbs, check for heat build-up.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Dennis Smerz on February 11, 2000, 11:08am
Just a follow-up. I also received with an order from Tony's
Trains a Tech Bulletin containing references to Life-Like locos
and in there Tony instructs to use a 150 ohm 1/4 watt resistor on
the SW9/1200 factory lights. Tony does stay on top of what he
sells.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 11, 2000, 11:33am
Dennis: The main reason I wanted to keep the original lights was
just for the reason of heat on 12v bulbs and I did not want to
take the cab apart. I did use 2 150ohm resistors and removed the
diodes as stated in a previous message. I was very pleased with
the installation and that little engine just purrs along like a fine
clock. It starts at click 1 and reaches it's operating speed at click
8. I plan to get another and try a different installation by
removing the board entirely and using a lower price decoder than
a DZ121. This will avoid milling the front weight however I will
have to hardwire the lights as the contact mechanism will be
gone. Regards. Leonard Stern. NOTL., Email:
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor value
Posted by Glenn Horowitz on February 11, 2000, 10:07pm
Odd. I've had no problem with heat distortion. Cab gets warm,
but that's it, even over a few hours of constant use. I used the
12V 1.7mm microbulbs, p/n 18-712-10 that Tony sells.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: PK2 SW resistor va
Posted by Roger Robar on February 13, 2000, 07:20pm
I use a short lenght of brass tubing cemented to the top of the
cab roof and shove the 12v mini- bulbs Tony sells into it. This
directs the light through the lens and dispense any heat build up.
Elec. pickup for tender
Posted by Don on February 08, 2000, 01:24pm
Does anyone have recommendations for modifying the Rivarrossi
Challenger Tender for electrical pickup? Is there a website which
addresses this problem? Does the Bowser pickup kit for the Con-
Cor tender model do the job? Thanks.
Don
Decoder for Stewart FT's
Posted by Tom Bailey on February 06, 2000, 05:55pm
I'm trying to install a NCE D102EU into a Stewart FTA. I know
there's a DCC plug, but I'm finding it too tight a fit for the light
board and the decoder. So, what I want to do is remove the light
board and let the decoder do the the work of the light board. Has
anyone out there tried this, and if so, how do you wire the headlight,
class lights and numberboard lights? If not what decoder have
people successfully installed using the DCC plug? I'd rather not use
a N or Z scale decoder. Also, I'd rather not put the decoder in the B
unit. Any ideas?
Re: Decoder for Stewart FT's
Posted by Bob Miller on February 06, 2000, 06:11pm
I have placed a D102US in a Stewart FTA and FTB in place of
the circuit board, but haven't bothered with the lights yet, just
hardwared the decoder to the track pickups and the motor
brushes.
Don't expect any great problems with the lights when I get
around to it.
Re: Re: Decoder for Stewart FT's
Posted by joe binish on February 10, 2000, 12:50pm
I installed an NCE da-102us in my FTs, replacing the light board
and the LED board in the nose. I used 14 volt bulbs for the
headlamp and fabricated new clear class lights with fiber optics
and a 1.5 volt bulb (and resistor). the class lights I wired to
function 1 on the decoder. If you want a picture let me know
direct(joebinish@aol.com) and I will email or snail mail you a
shot.
Walther's Rotary on DCC
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on February 05, 2000, 03:43pm
I'm looking for suggestions on how to run the Walther's Rotary
Snow Plow on DCC without using a decoder. Out of the box the
blade rotates about half the speed as when on analog DC. It has an
LM7805 voltage regulator to control maximum voltage to the motor.
I tried replacing the diodes installed with a bridge rectifier. On
analog DC this works great - the rotor now turns regardless of track
polarity. But on DCC the motor just humms as if its getting AC
power. Any suggestions?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Walther's Rotary on DCC
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 05, 2000, 09:09pm
Bernard: The rotary is just like a loco without a decoder. All
unequipped decoder locos (and the rotary) on the DCC track will
hum. If you wish to control the motor just dial address 00 on
your DCC throttle. You will then be able to increase and
decrease speed but even at no speed (idle) the motor will hum.
Remember only one non-decoder loco (rotary) can be operated
on a DCC layout. I hope this helps you. Leonard Stern, NOTL.,
905-468-5759 (tel and fax). Email: printmore1@aol.com
Switcher Decoders
Posted by Norman Beveridge on February 01, 2000, 09:26am
I see the new TTX/SW12 decoder for P2K switchers. Will this one
work in older P2K locos which do not have the NMRA 8 pin plug?
Also, maybe I have asked this before, I would like to know what is
the recommended decoder for Atlas Alco S2/4 switchers? What
about Kato NW2? I would prefer NCE decoders if possible, but I'll
listen to any suggestions.
Re: Switcher Decoders
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 01, 2000, 01:45pm
Norman: I installed a Digitrax DN140 in an Atlas S-4. In
reference to your 1st question I suggest you email TTX and ask
them. I see no reason not to use NCE decoders as long as their
size is appropiate to your installation space. If you need more
info on the S-4 installation please reply. Regards. Leonard Stern.
NOTL., 905-468-5759 (tel and fax). Email:
printmore1@aol.com
Set02 Programming
Posted by Gale Saxton on January 30, 2000, 03:06pm
I'm unable to program any Northcoast DA102 decoders to a 4-digit
address using a Lenz Set02.
Programming other CV's is ok.
Programming 4-digit addresses on Lenz decoders is ok.
Has anyone seen this problem and is there a work-a-round?
Gale Saxton
PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Robert Jackson on January 27, 2000, 11:02pm
My Digitrax PR-1 programmer will not let me select COM 2
eventhough that is physically where the PR-1 is attached. I have
tried all the obvious things like changing interrupts and so-forth.
Also had a technician test the serial ports of my computer. They are
OK. The PR-1 will only permit selection of COM 3 which puts it in
conflict with my mouse on COM 1 and locks up the computer.
Nothing I have tried solves this frustrating problem. Does anyone
have insight into this matter? Anyone had the same experience and
has a solution? All praise to whomever has an answer. Thanks,
Robert
Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Leonard Stern on January 30, 2000, 12:51pm
Robert: I will attempt to help you but several questions first.
What computer are you using? Is the PR1 Programmer using the
PR1WIN (Tanner) or PR1DOS (Kabat) software? What version
of the software do you have? What power supply for the PR1 do
you have? Have you attached the PR1 to a programming track?
If so does the "PR1 connected" show a red slash? ditto for
"Loco on track"?
Let me see these answers and I will help you if I can. I'm not
very good with computers but I also had similiar problems that
you have and have managed to get the PR1 to work with both
the Win and Dos software. Regards. Leonard Stern. NOTL.
905-468-5759 (tel and fax). Email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Dave Chance on January 30, 2000, 03:49pm
The modem in your computer may be on "com2" which will
signal "plug and play" to set the second com port in your
computer to "com3". If this is the case, set your second port to
"com4" and this should work. To determine what com ports are
in use, click start, settings, control panel, system (double click),
device manager tab, ports.
The PR1 does not have to have external power at this point. In
fact I usually apply power after bringing up the programmer
software, however, it will work either way. Once the power is
on, check by putting a loco on the track. If working the red slash
over loco will go away in PR1WIN and "loco on track" will
appear if using PR1DOS.
Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Robert Jackson on January 30, 2000, 04:34pm
I appreciate the responses I have had. As for further information,
my computer is an 80486, 100mhz PC running under Win95.
My PR-1 is setup with Pr-1Win (Tanner). The computer is
totally dedicated to the railroad. Before this problem it had both a
sound card and an internal modem (from a previous usage). I
have removed both with no help for the problem. The programming
track is powered with a Model Power transformer using
the fixed DC output, that may turn out to be a problem, but I am
sure that it is not part of this problem. When the PR-1 is booted
up with programming track powered neither red slash appears
which has to mean that the Comport is recognized, but I cannot
select Comport 2 with the software, only Comport 3, which
leads to a conflict with the mouse and lock-up of my computer.
Thanks to all who have responded and to those that may yet
respond. I am going to try to implement the suggestions
responders have made this evening hopefully.
Re: Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Leonard Stern on January 30, 2000, 05:25pm
Robert. The PR1 requires a FILTERED DC source. Many users
use 2 9v batteries in series to get a pure 18v dc supply. I would
suggest this as a start. To read and write to a decoder this type of
power supply will avoid any problems. Since you are using
PR1WIN when you start up it should say that "PR1 connected"
i.e. NO red slash. Also if you have a loco on the programming
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136
track there should also be no red slash through the loco icon. In
any case click on PR1 on the top bar and go to "interface" This
will allow you to select the proper com. Also the baud rate
should be set for the lower of the two values for now. If later
you have no problems you may set this at the higher level. The
buffer should be defaulted to 250 and the ACK box should be
checked. Try the above and reply if you wish. Regards. Leonard
Stern. NOTL. 905-468-5759 (tel and fax). Email:
printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Leonard Stern on January 30, 2000, 05:43pm
Robert: One more thought. If you do not have a PR1 manual I
suggest going the digitrax.com site and under "Computer
applications" you can download the manual. Also Digitoys.com
is the source for any updates for the PR1WIN. Regards.
Leonard Stern.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Leonard Stern on January 30, 2000, 06:43pm
Robert: More info. I just read on the onelist/digitrax list that
many people are having problems with PR1 recognizing ports.
Don Crano gave a pretty good write up at what it could be. In
essence the PR1 is built for com's that are RS232 compliant. It
appears that some computers have "almost RS232 compliant
com's". Could that be the problem you are having? Don Crano
suggest replacing these almost compliant com's with a com port
card. As I mentioned I am not a computer person so I cannot
personally comment. Hope this helps you. Regards. Leonard.
Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Paul Bizier on February 07, 2000, 09:35am
Bob:
I've never had my PR-1 work on a Windows 95/98 computer
(I've tried 4 - from Toshiba notebooks, to Acer Pentiums, to
eMachines Celerons) regardless of the port setting. I ended up
scavenging an old Compaq 386/25 that still had Windows 3.11
on it - BINGO! Not a problem.
I'll probably get multiple postings saying I'm wrong, but this is
what's worked for me...
Paul
Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 07, 2000, 03:53pm
Paul: You are not wrong! Your comments do show that the
comport is usually the most of the problems concerning the PR1
whether it runs on the Win or Dos programming. As I mentioned
before I am not a computer person so I have no real
advice to give to solve the problem you have had on the other
computers other than the old 386 with Win 3.1. Could it be that
the FIFO option was not disabled? Regards. Leonard Stern,
NOTL., Email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 09, 2000, 10:48pm
To All: Just learned from the Digitrax onelist that there is a good
FAQ's section for the PR1. This can be seen at digitoys.com.
Regards. Leonard Stern
Re: Re: Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 10, 2000, 12:51am
Correction to previous mentioned web page for Digitoys.
www.digitoys-systems.com
Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Paul Federiconi on February 15, 2000, 01:56am
I also have a problem with PR1-WIN recognizing COM1. I
have a Pentium computer with two 9 pin serial ports. I believe
the PR1 needs to be upgraded to work on Pentium computers
with Win 98SE.
It seems to me the software can only work on 386/486 computers
with 25 pin comports. That's my opinion.
I hope Tanner and Digitrax fixes that problem.
Paul
Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on February 16, 2000, 12:41pm
I have a Pentium running Windows 98SE. My PR-1 is
connected on Com2 - never had a problem. Could be because I
loaded the PR-1 software while still on Windows98 and later
upgraded to Win98SE. You computer vendor could also change
the comm connection to a D-25 connector to accept the PR-1 -
its just a cable plugged into the motherboard.
Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Dale Gloer on February 17, 2000, 09:17am
there is no difference in COMM ports between the ones with 9
pin and 25 pin connectors other than the connector. A full serial
port implementation uses less than 9 wires and the PR-1 does
not use that many. every computer shop has adapters between 9
and 25 pins. All you need is to get an adapter.
Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by flange on February 17, 2000, 05:45pm
I have been having a very difficult time with my PR-1. I've sent
the PR-1 back to Digitrax for repair, but it still won't work. The
"PR-1 connected" comes on, but the red slash over the loco
won't go away. Before the repair, the loco just sat on the prog
track; now at soon as the 2-9v bats in series are connected, the
motor starts to run. One thing I'd like to see from people who
have working PR-1s, how about some info about what kind of
voltage readings are to be found. Here's what I had pre fix:
I get 4 ohms of resistance across the rails with the engine on the
rails
I get 100 ohms of resistance across the rails with the engine off
the rails
I get 17v dc across the batteries
I get 40mA dc current flow through the batteries (engine on or
off rails no effect) with PR1 program running
I get 30mA dc current flow through the batteries (engine on or
off rails no effect) with PR1 program not running
Re: Re: PR-1 Programmer Problem
Posted by Leonard Stern on February 17, 2000, 08:31pm
I use the PR1 hardware with both the WIN and DOS software
and so far all is OK. Here is my setup: Samsung laptop,386,Win
3.1. The PR1 is connected with an adaptor to the serial port. The
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

white and blue wire from the PR1 are connected to the programming
track; the red and blk wires are connected to the pure DC
supply; 2 9 volt batteries (new and in series). The voltage across
the batteries is +18 DC and the voltage across the rails is 1.5v
AC. The serial interface is set up as follows: Com 1, baud
16457, buffer 250, write ACK box is checked, allow direct
programming is not checked. When the engine (with a tested
decoder) is put on the programming track the red slash on the
loco icon goes off. I then click on installed programmer and then
digitrax programmer.I then can read and write the decoder. One
more thing; make sure all wire connections are correct and tight
and that the track is clean. Hope this helps you. Leonard Stern.
email: printmore1@aol.com
Homasote roadbed
Posted by Leonard Stern on January 26, 2000, 09:46am
Does anyone on this list know of a source for Homasote roadbed in
Canada? There is a dealer for Homabed*R (made of homasote) in
California however the freight charges to Canada are very excessive.
Information is appreciated.Thanks. Leonard Stern, NOTL.
905-468-5759 (tel and fax). Email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: Homasote roadbed
Posted by Thomas Gleave on January 26, 2000, 06:25pm
Leonard,
How much do you need?
I have 2 cases of it that Iam not going to use
Call me
I live in N.Y.
(631) 951-9187
Momentum
Posted by Chuck Snyder on January 24, 2000, 12:00pm
I have a new NCE Procab. The upper right button is marked
"Momentum", however the documentation shows this key as
"Brake". I can't find anything in the manual regarding the use of
Momentum, what it does or how to program it.
Part II It appears to me it is not possible to program the Soundtraxx
diesel bell function to actually operate when the Bell button is
pressed. Agreed?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Chuck
Re: Momentum
Posted by Steve Z. on January 25, 2000, 08:46am
Chuck:
You're right. Soundtraxx made the bell and horn fully
remappable on STEAM decoders but not fully remappable on
DIESEL (go figure). However, you CAN remap the NCE
procab (Cab Setup) to switch the horn and bell functions to
match the Soundtraxx diesel. Then remap any Soundtraxx steam
decoders (which are fully remappable) to match the diesel
decoders and NCE procab and you're all set. By the way, all
NCE/Wangrow cabs can have the bell and horn remapped.
Re: Momentum
Posted by Mark Fisher on January 28, 2000, 12:15am
Page 3 of the Procab Manual version 1.3 says that momentum is
a feature that will be addded later as a free upgrade. It is
currently mapped to the Brake function if you use the shift key.
Bachman 2-8-0, Soundtraxx
Posted by Laddie Hanus on January 21, 2000, 01:50pm
In one of Tony's tips he says in
order to install the DSD 150 in
the 2-8-0 to remove the circut board. I think I know which wire go
to the motor and which go to the headlight but what are the wires on
the 2 prong plug for? And what is
the wiring on the 4 prong plug, near as I can figure out the red and
black are the motor and the 2 read are the headlight.
Laddie
Re: Bachman 2-8-0, Soundtraxx
Posted by Ed McCamey on January 21, 2000, 03:03pm
The two pin plug is the power from the engine drivers on each
side and match to the tender truck pickups as well. The 4 pin
plug does go to the motor and the front headlight. It's easy to run
a continuity from the two pins and determine the side they apply
to.
Lenz Set 02
Posted by John Meck on January 20, 2000, 03:12pm
Does anybody know if any of the new Lenz Set 02 function keys
will be non-latching? I would like to hold the horn/whistle key
down for as long as I want to. Thanks in advance.
Re: Lenz Set 02
Posted by G. Saxton on January 21, 2000, 11:34pm
Debdie Ames told me that the momentary function key 'might' be
considered in a future release. Because of all the features
currently in the LH200, they apparently ran out of programming
room.
Tender
Posted by Ernie Picciotti on January 19, 2000, 10:35am
Finally got into the tender web.
Thank's guy's
Ernest Picciotti
Posted by Tender on January 18, 2000, 12:48pm
Still unable to get into htt://members.aol.com/wire4dcc/locos.htm or
htt://members.aol.com/4dcc/hropen.htm Any help eill be appreciated.
Re: Ernest Picciotti
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on January 18, 2000, 01:28pm
I was just into their site without any problem - I just copied the
url and pasted it into the address bar.
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138
Re: Re: Ernest Picciotti
Posted by Ed McCamey on January 18, 2000, 01:45pm
Must use HTTP:// Not the HTP
Re: Ernest Picciotti
Posted by Dave Chance on January 18, 2000, 11:07pm
I use http://members.aol.com/wire4dcc/homepage.htm
It works fine for me.
Tender
Posted by Ernie Picciotti on January 17, 2000, 12:39pm
To Ed McCamey, How do I get into the wire4dcc site? When I type
in htt://members.aol.com.wire4dcc/hropen.htm I get an unknown
host message. Regard's Ernie
Re: Tender
Posted by Mike T on January 17, 2000, 01:03pm
http://members.aol.com/wire4dcc/locos.htm is correct address
NCE signal line
Posted by Bob Miller on January 17, 2000, 09:22am
To those who responded to my question about running two nce
signal lines and being able to run engines on either without selecting
the engine over, the problem I was having with this is solved. I
decided to work with it a little more and using the two cab plugs on
the command station was able to establish two shorter signal lines
instead of one longer one, and everything runs fine. We live and
learn. Bob Miller
Removing Decals
Posted by Greg Fritz on January 15, 2000, 11:41am
I have an Rock Island Atlas RS-3 that I would to decorate for a
private road name. Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best
was to remove the Rock Island road lettering from the loco without
damaging the paint. Thanks in advance!
Re: Removing Decals
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 17, 2000, 04:31pm
Years ago, a little Solvaset and a PINK eraser rubbed lightly
would do a good job removing the lettering. It leaves a matte
finish (i.e. removes the gloss). With care new decals can be
applied and then the usual "dullcote" finish will hide the
changes.
I do not know how well this works with the modern laser
printing. Most of the modifications I make these days I simply
paint over the old lettering (sometimes even by brush!) since the
paints are so easy to match.
Re: Re: Removing Decals
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on January 17, 2000, 09:52pm
I have had good results using Fantastic on a Q-tip to remove
factory lettering. But it doesn't always work.
Re: Re: Re: Removing Decals
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on January 18, 2000, 10:00am
Hi Greg,
My hobby shop dealer reccommened using automotive brake
fluid to remove decals. It worked for me. Of course, you should
test this out on a small area to see if the finish will be affected.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing Decals
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on January 18, 2000, 01:13pm
Caution with brake fluid - it will remove most paints and could
spoil your model. Have you ever dripped some on your car
while filling the brake reservoir?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing Decals
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 21, 2000, 09:39am
Also, brake fluid may etch some plastics (Stewart F's, in my
experience!!!), causing the plastic to be brittle. Be very careful.
I do not advise brake fluid for removing decals, unless you also
want to remove the paint.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing Decals
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on January 25, 2000, 08:41am
Hi Norman,
That's very interesting. I've used brake fluid on Stewart F's, and
have never had a problem with either etching of the plastic or
removal of the paint.
Of course, I do wipe the surface clean immediately after the
decals are off.
Sincerely,
Jean
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing Decals
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 25, 2000, 09:12am
I would be interested to know if your experience with brake
fluid and Stewart shells is recent. The shells which were etched
by the brake fluid when I tried it were all purchased before 1992.
I think that caution is warranted, regardless -- we don't want to
risk ruining a $100 model!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing Decals
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on January 25, 2000, 12:28pm
Hi Norman,
I believe the Stewarts that I did this on were purchased In 1995-
1996 or so.
And I'm certainly with you on not wanting to damage expensive
models. [Of course, diesel shells aren't all that expensive to
replace.] That's one reason I suggested testing on a small area
first. I actually tested on some junker plastic cars before I ever
tried it on any diesels. Is it possible that not all brake fluids are
the same?
One relatively safe test anyone who wants to try this might do is
to sparingly apply some brake fluid to the *inside* of the diesel
shell first, keeping a towel around to quickly wipe it off if any
damage starts to occur.
As I said, I have had good success with this. And now I've tried
it on a LifeLike P2K, a Roco, and 9 Katos, all with no problems.
Sincerely,
Jean
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing Decal
Posted by Robert Jackson on January 27, 2000, 10:52pm
I can attest that not all brake fluids are the same. DOT 3, is
different from DOT 4 which is different still from DOT 5.
Without going into the chemistry the difference is intended to
increase boiling points and reduce hygroscopic nature of the
fluids. I have no specific experience with each as a decal
remover, but I echo those who have found that certain plastics
can be ruined with brake fluid--it removes the plasticizer.
Re: Removing Decals
Posted by D. Smith on January 28, 2000, 02:08am
Greg Fitz,
Easiest solution is not to remove it and buy an undecorated shell.
Then paint it to the correct color of your particular roadname.
Ive been looking for a RI RS-3 for years. You could sell your
shell to people like me. Contact me @ cgwfan@hotmail.com if
you would like to have me buy your shell.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing D
Posted by Jean C. Piquette on January 29, 2000, 06:38pm
Hi Robert,
Thanks for the information on the differences betwen brake
fluids.
I just looked at what I used (which will wind up being a lifetime
supply), and it's STP Heavy Duty DOT 3. I've tried this on
several plastics, all with no problem.
Of course, all you need is a very small amount. I put a paper
towel over the lip of the container and tipped it over, getting the
towel moist with fluid. Then, it's a few light swipes over the
decal, then quickly wipe off any excess. Decal is gone, finish is
unharmed.
Of course, everyone has to decide for themselves what they're
willing to do.
Sincerely,
Jean
Accel/Decel
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 14, 2000, 04:39pm
Okay, so CV3 is acceleration and CV4 is deceleration. Then what
are CV23 (acceleration adjust) and CV24 (deceleration adjust) used
for?
Re: Accel/Decel
Posted by E.T. Halloran on January 14, 2000, 11:28pm
If you have MU lashups (A-B-A) which have their own
indevisual address' you can asign a new consist address (maybe
a specific train number) that supercedes the indevisual address'.
Now that your consist has its own address, CV23 and CV24
can have a value set which will transpose to the address' of the
A-B-A lashup. This feature allows you to use one address to
control the CV's of MU lashups.
Re: Re: Accel/Decel
Posted by Steve Z. on January 17, 2000, 10:10am
CV23 & CV24 are used to ADJUST the normal A/D CV's.
Useful (sort of) when the loco is added to a consist so that the
whole lashup accelerates / decelerates smoothly, without having
to change the basic A/D characteristics of the loco when running
standalone.
Re: Re: Re: Accel/Decel
Posted by E.T. on January 17, 2000, 12:15pm
I'm at the head of the line for not being normal, but in this
instance could you please explain to me what a "normal A/D
CV" would be set too, in relationship to CV23/CV24? Could
you also (by reading post Re.Accel/Decel)explain where, "I just
don't get it". Thanks E.T.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Accel/Decel
Posted by Steve Z. on January 17, 2000, 02:05pm
CV19 holds the consist address. If non-zero, loco will respond
to this address for speed and direction. It may or may not
respond to consist address for other effects (sound, lighting,
etc.) It depends on the decoder. CV3 and CV4 are acceleration /
decelleration CVs. The higher the number the longer it takes the
loco to acc./dec. to the selected steed step. The A/D trim CVs
(23/24) are NOT supported by all decoders. They get combined
with CV3/CV4 (I don't remember if its added,subtracted,etc.)
The are used when combining loco's with different A/D rates
together in a consist so that they will work together. You could,
of course, change CV3/Cv4 of 1 of the locos to match the other,
but, theoretically, this using CV23/CV24 allows you to keep the
basic A/D parameters of a loco intact and simply reset the trim
CVs back to default when you are done consisting.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Accel/Decel
Posted by E.T. on January 17, 2000, 06:17pm
Steve, thank you. I think I got it now, but still do not understand
"if non-zero".Also, can you explain "trim CV's"? Thanks again
E.T.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Accel/Decel
Posted by Steve Z. on January 17, 2000, 10:56pm
E.T: When you setup an "advanced" consist in decoders that
support it, your DCC system will place the consist number you
assigned (1-127) in bits 0-6 of CV19. The high order bit (bit 7)
of CV19 is the direction of the loco in the consist - 0 for normal
and 1 for reverse. The decoder is programmed by the manufacturer
to respond to speed/direction commands sent over the rails
to the consist number. If CV19 is ZERO, then the decoder
assumes that consisting is inactive and it will respond to its
normal address for speed/direction commands.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Accel/Decel
Posted by Steve Z. on January 17, 2000, 11:25pm
E.T.: Now, lets say we have a consist that contains 2 locos - 1
originally setup (by using CV3) to accelerate quickly and the
other to accelererate slowly. The consist would not run very well
because the 2 locos would not be matched - the first would be
pulling the second until they stopped accelerating. That's where
CV23 comes in. It gets added to CV3 upon powerup or upon
reprogramming. You would program CV23 of the second loco
"on the main" effectively speeding up its acceleration until it
matched the first loco. The consist would then run correctly.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 139

140
When you kill the consist, you would then reset CV23 "on the
main" back to its default of 0, thereby restoring the original
acceleration characteristics of the loco. The same applies to CV4/
CV24 for deceleration. Is it a pain ?? Sure it is !! That's why
most people don't use it much. Hope this helps!!
Drive Frequency
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 14, 2000, 04:36pm
I see that my decoders have what is called "programmable motor
drive frequency" in CV9. What is it? What do I use it for?
Re: Drive Frequency
Posted by E.T. Halloran on January 14, 2000, 09:35pm
Vitually all DCC decoders drive the motor using Pulse-Width-
Modulation (PWM). One of the drawbacks is motor hum and/or
buzz.CV9 allows the user to program a drive frequency (usually
a value between 170 and 190)for quieter motors.
Re: Re: Drive Frequency
Posted by Steve Z. on January 17, 2000, 10:04am
We play with this one alot. Usually, the higher the frequency, the
better the motor runs. Zimo and some others have a supersonic
setting (19K) which is really smooth. There are some types of
motors for which high settings are not recommended (coreless, I
think, but not sure)
Re: Re: Drive Frequency
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 17, 2000, 04:41pm
For my decoders, CV9 is described like this:
"This CV determines the total PWM period for the uploadable
speed table. Each unit = 128uS. This allows a frequency of 30hz
to 279hz. 279hz comes from using each speed = 1 count. This
yields max speed = 28*128uS for a 3.58mS period which equals
279hz."
While I do have a master's degree in mechanical engineering, I
have spent 25 years designing chemical plants and refineries, so
the above paragraph means nothing. How do I get to 30hz, and
what does it do for me? Ditto for 279hz. The default value is
195. What does that get me?
The NCE manual shows 10 "built in" alternate speed tables,
ranging from 30hz to 180hz. What do these do for me?
Sountraxx Question
Posted by Chuck Snyder on January 13, 2000, 05:46pm
I'm the new owner of NCE DCC and a Soundtraxx GP30 put
together by Tony. I'm basically happy with the system but wonder if
I can increase the volume of the diesel engine sound (as opposed to
the bell and horn) which are fine. I think this is CV 61 based on a
recent article in MR. I'd appreciate any guidance on how make the
change.
Thanks for any input.
Re: Sountraxx Question
Posted by E.T. Halloran on January 14, 2000, 01:47pm
The easiest way is to get a Soundtrax users manual from TTX.
Appendix C is a binary/hex conversion chart. You may want to
try programing CV61 to a value of (depending on your
system)decimal 103 or hex 67. This will give you a low dynamic
brake an moderate volume on the engine exhaust. Remember that
increasing your volume may cause distotion and premature
failure of speakers. Reply letting me know what you think and
we can adjust accordingly. Hope this helps. E.T.
Re: Re: Sountraxx Question
Posted by Chuck Snyder on January 14, 2000, 02:20pm
E.T.
Thanks for your response. At first I was going to tell you I had a
manual then I realized I have a NCE manual but not a
Soundtraxx. I'll try to get one per your suggestion. I was
surprised that there is no listing of the various CV functions in
the NCE manual, i.e., what controls the bell, the whistle etc.
Thanks again for your help.
Chuck
Re: Re: Re: Sountraxx Question
Posted by E. T. Halloran on January 14, 2000, 03:09pm
CV values is the information that the decoders store internaly.
The command station searches out these values when prompted.
Generaly a list of CV values come with the decoder and not with
the user manual of the command station. CV values has an upper
and lower binary code. 00000000 would mean (if representing
volume) no sound and 11111111 would mean maxium sound. If
you split these codes up as in 0000/1111 you would have no
sound on the upper code and maximum volume on the lower
code. Visa-versa 1111/0000 would represent no sound on lower
and maimum sound on upper code. E.T.
TTX--PS/AR
Posted by E.T. Halloran on January 10, 2000, 12:18pm
Can the new TTX-"PS/AR"(power shield/automatic reverser)have
more
than one LED connected to the XLEDA and XLEDK outputs?
reverse blocks
Posted by E.T. Halloran on January 09, 2000, 09:05pm
Does the "PS/AR" require the whole train to be in the insulated
block to work, please explain.
DCC Decoder plug wiring for Bachmann K-4
Posted by Dave Nobles on January 06, 2000, 07:28pm
I have a Bachmann Spectrum K-4. I run my R/R on NCE DCC.
Does anyone know the wiring connections for the "plug" to the
decoder. I have to connect the NCE decoder to the plug first. Thank
You All
Re: DCC Decoder plug wiring for Bachmann K-4
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 07, 2000, 02:58pm
The standard 8 pin plug is as follows:
1 = motor right
2 = rear headlight
3 = F1
4 = left rail pickup
5 = motor left
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

6 = forward headlight
7 = headlight common
8 = right rail pickup
Remember that this starts in the corner for 1, runs down to 4,
across to 5 and up to 8, such that 8 is across from 1. This
arrangement is symmetrical, so that if you plug it backwards, it
still works (i.e. motor to motor, track to track, etc.). Backwards
would merely result in swapping direction on the loco, which is
programmable anyway!
Rivarossi Challenger Tender
Posted by Don on January 06, 2000, 12:01pm
Can someone advise me as to how best to disassemble the Challenger
Tender for installation of a sound decoder and speakers?
Also, what would be the best way to put pick-ups for track power
on the tender? Thanks
Re: Rivarossi Challenger Tender
Posted by Ed McCamey on January 06, 2000, 04:32pm
Check out the wire4dcc pages with specific locomotives. The
actual tender page is: http://members.aol.com/wire4dcc/
hropen.htm
This will help a lot!
Decoder for Walthers SW1
Posted by Roger Robar on January 06, 2000, 07:55am
What decoader has anyone used for the Walthers HO SW-1 model?
I have a DN140 that will be a rather tight fit in the roof of the cab,
there is no room under the hood especially if one wants to install a
headlight. Thanks for any info. Roger
Re: Decoder for Walthers SW1
Posted by Larry Keller on January 06, 2000, 08:38pm
Roger,
I used a DN93 (predecessor to DN140). It was a tight fit in the
cab, but it did fit. You could use a DZ121--it should fit with
plenty of room to spare.
Informitive site
Posted by E.T. Halloran on January 04, 2000, 02:56pm
If you want to have an up-lifting experience with a touch of humor
and raw honesty about the model railroad industry,take the plundge
and web up to hotrains.com I guarantee you will be,if not any thing
else, laughing with delight
Re: Informitive site
Posted by Don Vollrath on January 06, 2000, 08:58am
I've looked for this site several times and always get a 'can't find'
error. Do you have a more complete URL?
Re: Re: Informitive site
Posted by E.T. on January 20, 2000, 09:12am
http://www.hotrains.com/
Atlas Classic GP-7/RS-3 Decoder Install
Posted by Dave Chance on December 30, 1999, 10:29pm
I have several Atlas Classic GP-7's and a couple RS-3's that I want
to install a DCC decoder. It is really tight with a DH121P in the
GP-7. Does anyone have any ideas? Will the NCE/TTX RS-2 or
GP-7 decoders work? Any help will be appreciated!
Re: Atlas Classic GP-7/RS-3 Decoder Install
Posted by Leonard Stern on January 01, 2000, 01:44pm
On Dec 21/98 I installed a DH120(now replaced by DH121) in
an Atlas GP7, Reading #608. I hardwired the wires directly to
the socket as I did not have an available plug. The board was left
as is with no changes. It would appear that the plug has too
much height so direct wiring was the answer for my installation.
John, at Digitrax helped me out on this. The completed engine
and installation operates well as expected with Atlas engines.
Hope this helps you. Leonard Stern, NOTL. (1-905-468-5759,
tel and fax), email: printmore1@aol.com
Re: Re: Atlas Classic GP-7/RS-3 Decoder Install
Posted by Leonard Stern on January 01, 2000, 01:54pm
Dave: My previous response was for the Atlas GP7. As for the
RS-3 I used a NCE D102-US decoder. I removed just enough of
the circuit board material on each side to fit the very narrow
body. However I believe that Tony has a specific decoder for this
engine. Good luck and keep me posted if you wish. leonard
Stern, NOTL., 1-905-468-5759 (tel and fax) email:
printmore1@aol.com
LL P2K EMD E8/9 Decoder install???
Posted by Bob Holding on December 30, 1999, 04:02pm
I have read in this forum of some people having trouble with
underpowered decoders in LL P2K E6's & E7's. apparently the
stock motors draw too much current and smoke decoders.
Here is my question. Has anyone experianced similer problems with
the LL P2K E8/9 loco? I just purchased one, was going to install a
Digitrax DH140.
Can anyone shed light before I blow it for myself?
Re: LL P2K EMD E8/9 Decoder install???
Posted by Larry Keller on December 30, 1999, 05:01pm
Bob,
For what it's worth, I've installed DH84 (predecessor to DH140)
in 4 p2k E8/9s and have not had a decoder failure in any of them
in 3 to 4 years of regular running. This of course is no guarantee
that you won't smoke a 140. I thought it was just some of the
PAs that had problems smoking decoders, but I guess not?
Re: Re: LL P2K EMD E8/9 Decoder install???
Posted by Bob Miller on December 30, 1999, 06:26pm
I have an E6 A & B running fine with a North Coast 102us
decoder. Have not had any problems with it and I ran it a couple
of weekends ago during Santa Fe Modelers tour and kept it
running for some length of time with 6 brass passenger cars.
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Re: Re: Re: LL P2K EMD E8/9 Decoder install???
Posted by John Orminski on December 31, 1999, 07:44am
Hi there. I've also got experience with the Digitrax DH84 in a
P2K E8 and have never had any problems with it after 3 years.
Re: Re: Re: Re: LL P2K EMD E8/9 Decoder install???
Posted by DJRock on December 31, 1999, 11:50am
I have installed DH140 decoders in
2 proto E7s and 1 E8 and had trouble with the circuit boards in
the E7s. There were shorts in the circuits for the motors. After I
replaced the boards, problems gone.
I always check my installations with an ohm meter after a
decoder
installation before I power up the loco.
DJR
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LL P2K EMD E8/9 Decoder instal
Posted by Bob Holding on January 03, 2000, 01:12pm
Thanks, guys for your quick response to my LLP2K E8/9
decoder question. This gives me confidance in the project, I will
go with the DH140, checking with ohm meter b4 powerup.
If anyone else has thoughts on the subject, please feel free to
jump in.
Bob
Building Structure
Posted by Thomas Gleave on December 24, 1999, 11:00am
Looking for a picture of FSM coal dock. Kit #155.
Does anyone have one out there?
You can e-mail it to me at
TAGRR@webtv.net
In defense of Tony
Posted by Bob Miller on December 21, 1999, 08:45am
I recently was venting my frustration with NCE and a problem
which I was not getting resolved. Someone suggested Tony as a
knowledge source and I responded badly saying Tony and I don't
get on well. I don't know him personally, but he has been helpful
when possible in the past. The frustration is being unable to get
components on a timely basis, which is certainly not Tony's fault.
So I want those who saw my posting to understand I have no
problem with Tony and continue to do business with him. Merry
Christmas to all of you railroaders.
Re: In defense of Tony
Posted by Leonard Stern on December 21, 1999, 11:30am
Bob: Pleased to hear that you really do not have a problem with
Tony. I have met Tony personally when I purchased my Chief
system from him. This was at his former place of business and I
was impressed at his setup for handling all dcc installations.
Unfortunately Tony suffered a fire caused by lightning and was
out of house and business for a little while. Now all appears to
be back to normal. He really is an expert on all this DCC no
matter what brand. His web page is always up to date and if
something is not available he lets you know. In any case if he
doesn't have it, it is because of the manufacturer letting him
down. Regards. Leonard Stern.
PS How are you coming along with your S-2?
Re: Re: In defense of Tony
Posted by Bob Miller on December 21, 1999, 03:12pm
Hi Leonard:
My S2, in all its glorious pieces is laying on the workbench
waiting installation of a (shudder) Digitrax decoder I purchased
locally. After Christmas, will make the installation.
Re: Re: Re: In defense of Tony
Posted by Steve Z. on December 22, 1999, 08:15am
Bob, I'm glad to see you've not blaming Tony for the manufacturers'
marketing hype. As a 30 year veteran of the computer
industry, I can tell you that the DCC manufacturers have elevated
the concept of "vaporware" (announcing and marketing stuff
that's nowhere close to being ready, if it's even designed) to a
new artform. Tony tries to filter the hype while still keeping us
all informed of what the future will hold may hold. Occasionally,
he is caught with his "pants down", so to speak, when a
manufacturer truly misleads him.
NCE question
Posted by Bob Miller on December 15, 1999, 08:54am
I have emailed NCE but no response. I have two railroads, both
NCE with Master series command stations. The second added later
and I did not get a master cab at that time. Since then I received a
Procab for the second railroad. However, it will not do consisting,
but instead returns a string of gibbrish on the display when I select
consist. There are a couple of other quirks on this system, so I have
to switch cabs betwen systems to do consisting, etc. Is the procab
just not compatible with the Master command station or is there a
cab problem?
Re: NCE question
Posted by Van Saxon on December 15, 1999, 03:32pm
Both systems should work together without any problems. It
might be the throttle or it might be one of the command station
settings. Keep trying Jim at NCE and try rereading the manuel.
Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Bob Miller on December 16, 1999, 12:29am
Thanks, but I can only read the manuel so many times. In fact
the new manual is so small that it can easily be lost.
NCE DCC is high on my list, NCE the company is low.
Re: NCE question
Posted by W. Falconer on December 16, 1999, 03:51pm
I noticed you hadn't any replies to your email to NCE.
To get through to Jim you need "NCE" or "DCC" somewhere in
the subject line.
Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Bob Miller on December 16, 1999, 05:22pm
In the 9 months I have been dealing with NCE, I can't say I have
ever heard anything about nce or dcc in the subject line. He sure
got my orders I sent through email.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

I am getting to think he just doesn't care about customer service.
Re: Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Norman Beveridge on December 16, 1999, 09:56pm
It is unfortunate you are having this problem. When I was trying
to get past some start up problems earlier this year, he not only
answered my e-mail, but made a phone call as well!!!
Anyway, I hope you get your problem solved. I don't have
enough experience to help.
Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Ernest Picciotti on December 16, 1999, 11:12pm
I can not believe Bob Miller is having such a hard time with
NCE. I have had a Power House Pro system for a year now and
any time I had any kind of problem due to inexperance mostly
Jim alway's helped me solve them.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Bob Miller on December 16, 1999, 11:45pm
Gentlemen, don't get me wrong. I like the NCE product, but I
have had difficulty since March unless I telephone him and catch
him there and available. I got tired of the telephone calls, but he
very seldom has answered my emails. And I feel I have invested
a fairly large sum with him considering I am running two
different layouts. However, I am going to phone him again
tomorrow. The sad thing is all the years I used Dynatrol I never
had problems with help or getting product. Progress isn't always
easy.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Steve Z. on December 17, 1999, 08:38am
Never had a problem contacting NCE. Always got a good
response. Tony knows as much about NCE as anyone. Did you
try contacting him?
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Bob Miller on December 17, 1999, 11:49am
Well, it is always a new day. I went to the railroad to bring up the
DCC before calling NCE. I selected consisting setup, and it
came up okay. Selected advanced and again okay. Was able to
enter a new consist and it worked. Turned system off, brought it
up, killed a consist and entered two more. It is working fine
today. The day I had the problem was flaky, I even had to assign
a loco to the cab04 throttles initially from the procab as they
would not do a loco select. have been fine ever since. Who
knows. Everything fine now. As far as Tony, he and I don't seem
to get along too well.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Steve Z. on December 22, 1999, 11:17am
Bob: I should have mentioned this earlier, but sometimes erasing
the command station memory fixes the type of problem you have
(remove AC power, remove battery or flip slide switch depending
on type of NCE manufactured command station). The
problem could be caused by a low internal battery to begin with.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE question
Posted by Bob Miller on December 22, 1999, 12:01pm
Steve: this is the first time I was aware of any internal battery in
the Master series command station. I have two of them, one on
each railroad, but the battery escapes me. However, the problem
did go away the morning I called Nce. I was going to have it up
during phone call, problem gone. Jim thought I was having
noise on the bus line by it touching a power bus line. along with
the defined problem, I could not get the CAB04 throttles to pick
up a loco assignment. That went away also.
Thanks
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE questi
Posted by Steve Z. on December 22, 1999, 01:58pm
Bob: I have a System 1 (made by NCE) and a Powerhouse Pro.
The System 1 definitely has a battery and I'm sure the Powerhouse
Pro must have similar circuitry (battery, capacitor, non
volitile memory?) to keep permanent consists and other system
settings alive between sessions. In any event, on rare occasions
(2 times in over three years of heavy use) the memory of our
System 1 that holds this stuff got corrupted and we had to clear
it. Once we did, we were fine.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE qu
Posted by Bob Miller on December 22, 1999, 06:17pm
Thanks Steve. Guess I wasn't thinking along that line. After 33
years of computer programming and systems work I should
have thought about the command having battery backup, but
didn't. Don't think that caused this particular problem as the
command station is new, although I have seen pc's come in with
low or dead batteries.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE questi
Posted by Don Vollrath on January 06, 2000, 09:03am
Bob,
See the NCE PhPro manual, right after the 'changing the
EPROM' page.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NCE qu
Posted by Bob Miller on January 06, 2000, 10:54am
Don: not sure what you are refering to in the manual. I have two
master series command stations, two different layouts. First
came with a System One looseleaf manual which I can't find
anything in. Second station came a few months later with no
manual because they weren't available. I can't find an eprom page
in the system one manual, so am at a loss.
Bob Miller
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NC
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 07, 2000, 02:56pm
The NCE manual is available on-line. You can get to it from
Tony's page if you go to the NCE manufacturer's site.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: NC
Posted by Don vollrath on January 10, 2000, 09:04am
Go to the NCE website and download an updated PHPro
manual. (pdf format) You can get there via www.TTTrains.com.
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144
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re
Posted by Bob Miller on January 10, 2000, 12:37pm
Thanks, have already gone out to the NCE site, which I have
bookmarked and downloaded.
Bob Miller
Nice Site
Posted by John Mangan on December 06, 1999, 08:15pm
Site looks great. Nice message board.
I also run a VT Trains site called "Railroads of Vermont - Modeling
& History". Feel free to check it out HERE
- John
Athearn 2-8-2 wiring
Posted by Roger Robar on December 03, 1999, 02:18pm
The motor wires (orange and gray) are extremely tight fit between
the motor mount casting and the plastic superstructure. To gain
room and relive the strain on the wires, cut off the backhead, install
a 4x6 styrene strip spacer formed to the curve of the backhead, glue
and paint. Check ALL wire solder connections before reassembly,
some connections are poorly soldered, I talk from experience. Read
Tony's 'Tips' on this model. Also read the MR 2-8-2 update, Jan.
2000, pg.42.
Genesis Mikado
Posted by Glen Duke on December 02, 1999, 06:47am
> I think part of the problem is poor pulling capacity is the
excessively
> stiff suspension.
>
> I managed to change the springs for a more lightly sprung
> configuration, but
> it was a whole lot of tedious work-far more difficult than any
> brass engine
> I ever worked on. (It requires making a jig for reassembly plus
> drilling new
> seats for Northwest Short Line springs.)
>
> I, too, found broken wires appearing after working on the engine.
I wires
> going to each of the split sides broke for no other reason that the
usual
> wear and tear. I had to drill and tap into the frame and attach new
wires.
>
> To improve performance, I also installed brass tender trucks with
> wipers and
> fully wired the tender.
>
> It is a much better engine, now.
>
> Glen Duke
>
> >
>
Re: Genesis Mikado
Posted by Roger Robar on December 04, 1999, 08:41am
The pulling power is effected by an out of balance model, you
have to add weight to the front end. I use sheet lead cut to size.
This is what I did: Fill the sand dome. Fill the spaces over the
front two axles between the false spring hangers. Make sure the
lead doesn't touch either side(a short will occur). I used 5 layers,
fasten the first piece with double stick tape, yes I know this will
take away some of the 'see thur' look but it's worth it. Fill the
square hole in the steam chest yoke,leave room for screw. After
re-assembly and before you add the smoke box front you a can
slide in lead between the plastic shell and the cast weight on
ONE side only. Do not glue in case you have to take model
apart. Check all wire connections,they break easy. See my other
Bulletin Board.
Roger Robar
Light Fx's
Posted by Wayne Wicker on December 01, 1999, 09:43pm
What is the voltage of the light fucntion? Would I have to use a
resister for 1.5 v. bulbs? Are all the decoders the same voltage?
Thanx.
Re: Light Fx's
Posted by Joe Binish on December 15, 1999, 01:18pm
The voltage of functions is whatever is accross the rails(Ithink).
You will need to use a resistor for 1.5 volt bulbs. I have used a
250 ohm resistor, which yeilds a fairly bright light. I would
expirament, keeping in mind that a brighter light (lower resistor
value) will result in shorter bulb life.
Re: Re: Light Fx's
Posted by Van Saxon on December 15, 1999, 03:35pm
the voltage from the function output is a little less than track due
to the circuit requirements. I would start with a value of 470-510
ohms and only go down as you need
CTC 80
Posted by A.J. on December 01, 1999, 12:22pm
I have acquired a CTC 80 set up. Has anybody had experience with
this system. Any copies of manuals or wiring schematics would be
appreciated
please reply to ajtrns1@aol.com
Decoders for P2K SW9
Posted by John Orminski on November 30, 1999, 09:26pm
Now that I know which decoder to put into my GP-30's, can
anyone help me with a decoder and install location for the P2K
SW9?? I've got a couple of these as well and want to convert them.
I've got a few Digitrax DN140 decoders and just wonder if they'll
fit, and if so, where.
If these aren't the best choice, what is?
Thanks.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Decoders for P2K SW9
Posted by Leonard Stern on December 01, 1999, 11:56am
I assume that this is an HO model. If so I am installing a
DZ121(when it is returned from Digitrax). I followed the
installation procedure that Don Crano has posted on the
Onelist.com/digitrax list under files. If you are unable to log on
to this list please respond and I will give you all details. For a
start though I milled out part of the front weight to accept the
dz121 decoder.The amount of metal removed is not much so the
traction is not affected from the original. Good luck. Leonard
Re: Re: Decoders for P2K SW9
Posted by Norman Beveridge on December 02, 1999, 09:22am
I find that the NCE D102 decoder is easy to install with no
chassis milling. The cavity for the light board on top of the
chassis is plenty of room.
Carefully remove the light board, preserving the loco wires -- the
loco wires will be used instead of the decoder wires. Mount the
decoder on double sided foam tape, taking care that the solder
pads are on top. Now you can unsolder the decoder wires ONE
AT A TIME, being careful to note the function of each. Before
desoldering the next decoder wire, trim, strip, tin, and solder the
loco wire which corresponds to the decoder wire just removed.
Continue this process one decoder wire and corresponding loco
wire at a time until all wires are swapped out.
The track power pick up wires, motor wires, and front head light
are easy. The cab light is another matter. For the front light I
suggest you replace the bulb with a Miniatronics 18-014-10.
Re: Re: Decoders for P2K SW9
Posted by John Orminski on December 20, 1999, 09:42pm
Thanks to both Norman and Leonard for their advice. I'm going
to try it yet another way, with a Digitrax DN140 decoder (I had
one lying around). I've milled out part of the front weight, and
am looking at keeping the original bulbs and circuit board if I
can figure out which traces to cut.
The cab light isn't that hard to get out, so replacing the two of
them and the light board may be an easier way to proceed. I'll
keep you posted.
Thanks again!!
Re: Re: Re: Decoders for P2K SW9
Posted by Leonard Stern on December 21, 1999, 11:20am
John: I went through the same thought process as to where to
cut the traces. Loy Spurlock gave me the answer. If you do keep
the original board make the cuts so that the light circuits i.e the
white, yellow and blue are kept separate from any other
connection. The next trace will be for the truck/track feeder
wires. The next trace will be the orange/grey and motor wires. In
other words keep each section of the decoder separate just as
Norman described. Keep the wiring as neat as you can since
there is very little space. If you do not change the bulbs(1.5v)
you will need to use 270 ohm resistors. If you change to 12v
bulbs the resistors are not necessary. Good luck. Leonard Stern.
Bachmann Light Mountain
Posted by Charles A. Cole on November 29, 1999, 11:02am
Although the new Bachmann Spectrum USRA 4-8-2 Light
Mountain comes DCC ready, the tender is too small to accommodate
most decoders. A screw that goes through the bottom center of
the tender to hold the top in place further interferes with decoder
mounting.
Re: Bachmann Light Mountain
Posted by Joe Binish on December 01, 1999, 01:13pm
Charles, the tender for the mountain is the same as the tender for
the consol( Ithink) I removed the coal load and then cut away
part of the plastic deck under the coal load to accomodate a DH-
140. Joe
electrical wipers
Posted by Michael Tillger on November 25, 1999, 10:33am
Does anyone have any experience with adding electrical wipers to
there locomotive fleet, especially steam locomotives. Thanks
Re: electrical wipers
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on November 25, 1999, 05:32pm
Brass or Plastic?
Re: Re: electrical wipers
Posted by Mike Tillger on November 26, 1999, 07:46am
Both, mostly steam,
Re: electrical wipers
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on November 26, 1999, 10:51pm
Use thin phosphor bronze strips to wipe on the top edge of the
insulated driver flanges. Solder wire to the phosphor bronze and
then epoxy to a styrene block. Epoxy the block to the frame.
Watch that the added strip doesn't come in direct contact with the
frame or other metal. Brass wipers deform too easily. You can
also add wipers to the insulated tender wheels. This will greatly
improve the running of your engines.
Re: Re: electrical wipers
Posted by Mike Tillger on December 04, 1999, 03:16pm
Do you make your own wipers or do you purchase them
commercially? If you make your own what thickness material do
you use?
Re: Re: electrical wipers
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on December 05, 1999, 08:51am
I purchased some 6" long phosphor bronze strips 3/32" wide -
they are less than .005" thick.
Re: Re: Re: electrical wipers
Posted by Roger Robar on December 06, 1999, 07:28pm
You can buy wiper material (phosphor bronze) from Clover
House, P.O. Box62, Sebastopol, CA, 95472 A great article on
how to add wipers was in the March 1995 MR. "Contact! the
key to reliable performance." by Jeff Johnston. This author also
had 3 other good articles in MR, Jan.1995 'add balanced weight'.
Feb.1995 'replacing driver springs'. May,1995 'drive line
replacement'.Roger Robar
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 145

146
Re: electrical wipers
Posted by Glen Duke on December 11, 1999, 11:14am
I used the Tomar pickups to add tender contacts for the Genesis
Mikado. They wipe all four tender axles. (I also installed brass
trucks, but that really isn't necessary. It's just better.) In addition,
I used two of the Tomar strips INSIDE the tender as wiring
blocks. I then ran a wire from one of the tender truck wipers to
the (+) wiring block; did the same for the (-) side. Then attached
the engine's red and black wires to the proper wiring block. Did
the same for the decoder's red and black leads. It works great.
Re: Re: electrical wipers
Posted by Leonard Stern on December 13, 1999, 11:34pm
I used a similar set-up. The contacts (wipers) were from MRC
the same type that they include in their 2-8-0 kits. I used them in
my Mantua engines which are notorious for poor pick-up and
with these wipers plus the wiring to the inside part of the tender
I eliminated all pick-up problems.
MRC
Posted by Bill Stone on November 17, 1999, 08:50pm
Have On-Board but unhappy with
performance. Have a sound unit that is always a problem,
but I like it for the grandkids...if I go MRC does it have a function
to blow the horn, and ring the bell
like OB? Money is an issue
but later on I will get an engine with Soundtrax....right
now I simply want to get running but unsure about which
system longterm is right. I'm
not electrical wizzard need
a simplicity.
Need your advice, thanks!
Re: MRC
Posted by Gale S. on November 18, 1999, 09:29am
MRC has only one auxilliary function.
Soundtrax works best with at least 4-aux functions to take
advantage of the various sound tracks.
Check out the new Lenz02 starter set or the Digitrax Genesis
instead.
Re: Re: MRC
Posted by Bill Stone on November 19, 1999, 10:55pm
Thanks Gale, I only see Lenz 01 starter on Tony's product
list, am I missing 02?
Re: re:
Posted by Gale Saxton on November 20, 1999, 09:24pm
Bill,
The Lenz Set02 is supposed to be released by Lenz North
America on Dec 1.
You can check it out at www.lenz.com. I've seen some pricing
on the web indicating that it would be cost competive with the
Genesis. I'm sure Tony will have it when it's available.
Gale
Decoders for P2K GP-30
Posted by John Orminski on November 15, 1999, 09:48pm
Has anyone got some advice as to which decoder is the easiest to
install on the new GP-30's from Proto 2000? I'm running a Digitrax
system, but aren't averse to putting in another manufacturers
decoders. I saw a recent ad in MR for one specifically designed for
this engine but can't remember whose it was.
Thanks.
Re: Decoders for P2K GP-30
Posted by Leonard Stern on November 15, 1999, 11:03pm
Tony's Train exchange the sponser of this BBS has just what
you need. See his product list under Digitrax.
Re: Re: Decoders for P2K GP-30
Posted by John Orminski on November 16, 1999, 09:21pm
Thanks for the note. After I posted mine, I did see the decoders
on the Digitrax page. I'll have to try a couple. Does anyone have
any experience with them, vs. Digitrax decoders?
Re: Re: Re: Decoders for P2K GP-30
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 18, 1999, 09:15am
The special decoders which are plug in for P2000 GP7 and
GP30 and etc. are super!!! They also work for a host of other
applications. They are made by NCE and have all the abilities for
programming which are in the other NCE decoders. I am sure
that they would be handy in a Digitrax system as well. I have
installed and used them in LL GP7, Kato RS2 and SD45, Atlas
U33C and U23B, etc.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Decoders for P2K GP-30
Posted by John Orminski on November 21, 1999, 10:41pm
Many thanks. I'd seen the ad for the NCE decoder in MR but
didn't know it was the same as the one listed on the Digitrax
page, since it's called out as a "TTX", not an "NCE. I thought
maybe that it was a "TOny's" decoder. I'll try a couple.
Decoder for HO P2000 PA's
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 12, 1999, 05:05pm
Can someone recommend a decoder for the HO P2000 PA's? I
think Tony's tech tips point towards a load compensated decoder,
but which one? Do the newer, better, cheaper ones work?
Re: Decoder for HO P2000 PA's
Posted by Leonard Stern on November 12, 1999, 06:46pm
Norman: I installed a DH83FX in a LL P2K PA sometime ago
i.e. before the compensated decoders were available. My reason
was that the motor in this loco even though drawing 1 amp at
stall would require a heavy duty decoder to combat this back emf
problem. I have had absolutely no problems using this setup. In
my research I noticed that the problems that others were having
related to using lower rated decoders(at a lower price). I hope
this helps you in your decision. Leonard.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

MDC shay locomotive
Posted by Dave Greco on November 09, 1999, 06:30pm
Having proablems with your 2 or 3 truck shay?
I am willing to answer any questions about any proablem that you
are encountering with your shay.
Re: MDC
Posted by Dave Greco on November 09, 1999, 06:33pm
e mail me at SHAY4284@aol.com
MDC shays
Posted by David Greco on November 09, 1999, 06:26pm
Having proablems with a MDC 2 or 3 truck shay?
I am willing to answer any questions about any proablems
Thank You
Shinohara Turnouts: 4 Sale
Posted by Bill Gaver on November 07, 1999, 11:57am
NS code 70 Shinohara: New:
1-double crossover,1-30 crossing,
1-threeway, 1-double slip
Some never used, others mint:
10-#6 left, 6-#6 right,
7-#4 left, 3-#4 right. Sell lot
$175.00 including shipping.
Contact: gaver@worldpath.net
if interested.
Re: Shinohara
Posted by Bill Gaver on November 12, 1999, 05:12pm
Shinohara code 70 NS turnouts
4 Sale are no longer available.
motors-coreless???
Posted by Mike Tillger on November 06, 1999, 06:51am
What are coreless and ironless core motors?? How can you tell
which is which? What manufacturer used coreless motors?
Re: motors-coreless???
Posted by Dave Chance on November 09, 1999, 08:18pm
Mike,
Ironless core and so called coreless motors are DC motors
designed to have very low armature inertia. In simple terms, the
armature is coils of copper wire wornd on a paper form with
epoxy to hold its shape. Normally it turns around a stationary
magnet. Micro-Mo and Maxon are two brands but there are
others. There are other designs also but this should help.
Dave
NCE and DCC
Posted by Bob Miller on November 05, 1999, 08:45am
I use Nce. I also am a Dynatrol user, who has the interface that
allows NCE DCC and Dynatrol to share the same power, so I am
limited. I have only once NCE decoder that I can use, but it saves
me the cost of a total conversion at one time. I am happy with nce.
Digitrax users converted to NCE
Posted by Paul Deis on October 29, 1999, 12:41pm
Lastnight setup NCE system on friends layout and ran some trains
for the first time. Converted 2 Digitrax owners to NCE one they
saw the ease of use and setup
Re: Digitrax users converted to NCE
Posted by Dave Chance on October 30, 1999, 08:00pm
I started with NCE designed Wangro System One, I soon
switched to Digitrax Chief, along with several of my friends.
Reason, Digitrax is easy to program, and easy to use. It is very
reliable and the price is right. I have no beef with NCE, just hate
to see Digitrax bashed so often by NCE/Sys' One users.
Re: Re: Digitrax users converted to NCE
Posted by Leonard Stern on October 30, 1999, 09:55pm
Dave I agree with you. This is not a forum for this type of
comments but rather a place to help out each other with our
needs for DCC no matter what system we use.
Re: Re: Digitrax users converted to NCE
Posted by Richard Anderson on November 04, 1999, 10:47am
I've been running trains with DCC for almost 6 years now and
have experience with all the major DCC systems, either on my
own layout or while operating on other people's.
With this experience, I have a hard time believing that someone
would think that Digitrax is easier to use than System 1 or NCE.
Most people have their NCE setup and running in less than 15
minutes. The display cab menus lead a person through all the
programming steps. All programming is done in plain English,
not computer code. Every function has it's own button instead of
multi-use buttons where a specific sequence of pressing buttons
is necessary.
Don't get me wrong - Digitrax is a competent system. But easier
to use? No way!! You'll never convince me of that.
Re: Re: Re: Digitrax users converted to NCE
Posted by Dave Chance on November 04, 1999, 08:57pm
Richard, I think if you will re-read my posting, you will see that
I never said Digitrax was "easier" to program. I said it is "easy"
to program, which doesn't have any hidden meanings. I have
found a few "features" that require careful thought before
pushing the buttons, but overall, it's quite simple, at least for me.
The manuals are more confusing than need be, due inpart to the
terminology.
I'm sorry if I ruffled any feathers, but differend opinions is what
sells different systems.
Dave
Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax users converted to NCE
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 10, 1999, 09:43am
Dave, et al,
I would like to know if you have experienced "hysterics" with
Digitrax. Part of my dislike towards Digitrax comes from
experiences related toloss of control when large numbers of
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 147

148
operators are using the system simultaneously. Apparently the
Digitrax control bus is not very robust in that a large number of
users will "pull down the signal", causing the signal to be
attenuated, thus causing loss of control. Have you seen this?
Maybe it is okay for small numbers.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax users converted to NC
Posted by Leonard Stern on November 10, 1999, 01:10pm
The loss of signal strength in a Digitrax system is usually caused
by inadequate wiring. The main bus should be 12ga and the
feeders 16ga(recommended for large layouts). You could also
use 14ga and 18ga for smaller layouts. Also no looping of bus is
recommended. If you can be more specific with the problem you
described perhaps we can zero in on the answer. However
inadequate wiring is the usual cause of the problem. Leonard
Stern
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax users converted t
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 11, 1999, 11:59am
Leonard,
Thanks for the quick answer, and I hope it helps avoid problems
for all DCC users.
I observed this on Digitrax systems used by others, and this
problem in part pushed me to NCE instead. But the problem of
inadequate wiring will affect any system,. and thus your advice
is most valuable to all.
Thanks again.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax users converted to NC
Posted by Dave Chance on November 11, 1999, 08:54pm
Norman,
In addition to inadequate track wiring, I have experienced two
problems related to heat. Our command station has overheated a
few times and a fan got rid of this problem. Ocasionally a
decoder will overheat and shut down. This is probably due to
high current motors (older brass steam locos) and track voltage
too high. Setting the loco off the track for a few minutes restores
control. This is a decoder/loco problem not Digitrax problem.
I have heard of some problems related to using DT100IR's
without the battery, but I haven't seen it.
Dave...
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax users converted t
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 12, 1999, 04:58pm
Dave,
Thanks for the feed back.
To describe the problems a bit more, these problems were not
single decoder failures. Rather, everything on the railroad went
crazy -- all locos starting and stopping at random, and no one in
control.
I suspect that these were bus wiring problems as previously
mentioned.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Digitrax users convert
Posted by Chris on November 14, 1999, 01:13am
There can be a problem with Loconet being "drawn down" if too
many of the new "non-battery" throttles are used. This will draw
down the Loconet communication voltage and will cause
Loconet to become unstable.
If anyone is starting to use more than 3 of the UT1/UT2 or other
throttles without batteries you should get some UP1/2/3 panels
and power those panel with a "wall-wart" transformer. Problem
gone.
NCE Wireless/ Radio Throttle?
Posted by Dustin Smith on October 28, 1999, 05:39pm
Hello all, Ive been trying to find out information on NCE Radio
throttle. But I cant find any detailed information like if all NCE
DCC packages come with a radio throttle? Also, do you have to
connect the cab/ hand unit every time you want to address your loco
consists? Any other things that you think that is either good or bad,
please share! Thanks for all the help!
Atlas Layout #29 & DCC
Posted by Angelo Infinito on October 27, 1999, 08:28pm
Wayne,
I was wondering what DCC system you wound up going with. I
am considering the Digitraxx Chief. I too am in the process of
building Atlas Layout #29 the Central Midland, and am trying to
figure out how to wire the power districts and the wye section.
Angelo Infinito
Re: Atlas Layout
Posted by norman Beveridge on November 09, 1999, 09:27am
Please consider the NCE Powerhouse Pro. It is superior to
Digitrax, much easier to use, and costs less than the Digitrax
high end systems.
Only if everyone locally uses Digitrax should you consider one,
and even then you'd be settling for less.
Atlas #36 DCC Power Districts
Posted by David Foster on October 26, 1999, 09:59am
Has anybody have an idea on how to wire power districts for Atlas
layout #36 Oregon Pass? Thanks for any help.
Wanted Dynatrol Stuff
Posted by Mojave Railroad on October 25, 1999, 09:23pm
Wanted Dynatrol equipment. I will buy your complete system or
parts. Email me at mojave-railroad@usa.net
Re: Wanted Dynatrol Stuff
Posted by Jim Kuppler on November 18, 1999, 12:45am
I have some Dynatrol equipment
that will be available for sale. Send me an email if interested. I
will need help
describing the components.
They were used on an On3 layout. I live in Seattle,WA.
jim_kuppler@email.msn.com
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Walthers SW-1 decoder
Posted by Jerry Zeman on October 24, 1999, 12:00am
Could somebody recommend a decoder for installation in above
subject loco? Tried NCE D102 and it is too long.
regards,
Jerry Zeman
Re: Walthers SW-1 decoder
Posted by Joe Binish on October 24, 1999, 06:09pm
I am in the same boat. The way I see it, the only places for a
decoder are in the cab or in the spot where the cast fuel tank is.
If Digitrax ever gets the DZ-121 out, that one would work in
either of the above spots. Or try a DN-140, I put one in the fuel
tank area of a Kato NW-2.
Re: Walthers SW-1 decoder
Posted by Corey Lynch on October 28, 1999, 01:01am
We have a Walthers SW-1 at our club layout, and it has a decoder
in the cab. (makes it look a little odd up close) Not sure what it
is, but if you want the actual kind, I can find out for you if you
want.
Corey Lynch
lynchc@rpi.edu
VP - Rensselaer Model Railroad Society
NEB&W RR
Re: Re: Walthers SW-1 decoder
Posted by Doug Harding on October 31, 1999, 04:05pm
I installed a Digitrax DN140, the DZ was not out. The DN140 is
just a hair to long to fit up in the hood between the fingers of the
weight, it rubs on the flywheel when you put the body back on.
So I put mine in the Cab. I does look funny. I saw the DZ at the
National Hobby Show at Chicago in teh Digitrax booth last
thursday. So it does exist. It would fit above the front truck
between the weight. I believe it is .6 amp and not have enough
amperage.
Installing a DZ121 in a PP 2K SW 9/1200(HO)
Posted by Leonard Stern on October 22, 1999, 01:50pm
I have prepared the weight to accept this decoder. I wish to retain
the circuit board and the original light setup. I understand that I need
to cut three traces. However I do not know where to cut the traces
as this circuit board is not marked as in other LL locos. Any help on
this installation would be appreciated. Thanks. Leonard Stern. tel
and fax 905-468-5759.
Dynatol for Sale
Posted by Buzz Marsh on October 19, 1999, 04:02pm
2 ea FFC Cabs, 4ea RL Receivers
with Channel Plugs
$200.00
Contact:
E-Mail:
bqm@tt.net
Atlas RS3 (HO) decoder installation
Posted by Tom Murray on October 15, 1999, 10:08pm
This may be already posted somewhere, but any help on how to
install a digitrax decoder into an Atlas RS3 (HO)would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks
Re: Atlas RS3 (HO) decoder installation
Posted by Leonard Stern on October 16, 1999, 04:54pm
Hello Tom: Digitrax has a special decoder just for this loco.
Tony at TTX(this BBS) has the product.
Re: Re: Atlas RS3 (HO) decoder installation
Posted by Norman Beveridge on October 19, 1999, 05:10pm
The NCE D102 and DA102 are well suited to the Atlas RS3, yet
cost about $10 less than the Digitrax DH150 series decoders.
Re: Re: Atlas RS3 (HO) decoder installation
Posted by Jean Piquette on October 28, 1999, 04:22pm
I have a writeup on this installation posted on Allan Gartner's
web page at
http://members.aol.com/locochaser/dh150ajcp.htm. The only
thing I do differently now from what's in the writeup is that I use
12V Atlas replacement bulbs instead of the 1.5 Grain 'O wheat
bulbs.
The 12V bulbs require no resistors.
Re: Re: Re: Atlas RS3 (HO) decoder installation
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 10, 1999, 09:32am
The web site given in your posting does not work. Can you
check it? I would very much like to review the installation in the
RS3.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas RS3 (HO) decoder installatio
Posted by Mike Tillger on November 14, 1999, 08:28am
You will find that info and more at http://members.aol.com/
wire4dcc/locos.htm
Re: Re: Re: Re: Atlas RS3 (HO) decoder installatio
Posted by Jean Piquette on November 15, 1999, 04:05pm
The problem may be the period at the end of the web address.
Copy the web address and delete the period at the end.
Atlas layout # 29
Posted by Wayne Long on October 15, 1999, 09:58pm
Has anyone built the Atlas layout
The Central Midland? I have the benchwork completed
and the road bed down and would love to share comments
with you.
Re: Atlas layout
Posted by Angelo Infinito on October 27, 1999, 12:45pm
Hi Wayne,
I am currently building the same layout. I have the bench work
up and am just laying out the track so I can see where I need to
put down the roadbed. I modified the plan slightly by extending
the shorter part of the "L" out 7 feet longer.
Angelo
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 149

Bach. 2-8-0
Posted by Ross Williamson on October 13, 1999, 10:36pm
HELP!My Bachmann 2-8-0 runs really bad.Both of them stall in
curves or straights at time, lights go out unit runs or vice versa.I
have cleaned track and engines but no luck.I sent them to Bachmann
for repair and marked them so I could tell if they where removed
form the foam.1 was and the other was not both still run terrible
.Service rep. said nuttin is wrong w/ units.I,m fustrated with
Bachmann service and need some tech advise to fix.Thank you .
150
Re: Bach. 2-8-0
Posted by Leonard Stern on October 16, 1999, 04:38pm
Hello Ross Here a few suggestions. You can take off the boiler
by removing the drawbar and the lead trucks. Then remove the
screw between the drawbar and the rear drivers and the screw
between the cylinders.Pull out the running steps carefully from
the boiler(they are tabs in the boiler). Then lift the back of the
cab and slide forward. The drive mechanism will now be
exposed. This would be a good time to lubricate the worm with
proper grease and oil the bearings of the drivers and motor. Turn
the mechanism over and you will see brass sliders going to the
drivers. These brass sliders should be touching the wheels as
you move the wheels from side to side. If they do not, loosen
ever so slightly the small screws of the hold down plate. This
should free up the spring mechanism that operate these sliders.
Also the drawbar has two positions and I would suggest you
use the furthest one for ease on curves. Give this a try and let me
know if this solves your problem.
On Board For Sale
Posted by L. D. Daugherty on October 13, 1999, 10:26pm
Have the following Keller equipment for sale.
Mixer: M10 assembled with panel and meters: $50
Throttle: T1 Channel 9: $15
Throttle: T1 Channel 8: $15
SS: Steam Sound unit for Channel 9: $35
Please contact me @ ldd@rmi.net
RE: designing
Posted by ed bradbury on October 05, 1999, 06:55pm
You should read some of the information concerning boosters,
wiring, etc in tried & true trains web page.
Re: RE: designing
Posted by Norman Beveridge on October 12, 1999, 05:52pm
Be careful of the information on DCC wiring on TTTRAINS
and on the DCC web pages. Most of this applies ONLY to
Digitrax, and is unique to that system because the outputs are
NOT optically isolated in the booster. To my knowledge, all
other systems have the optical isolation feature and thus will
work with "common rail" wiring -- i.e. if you can wire for
regular DC, you can wire for any DCC except Digitrax.
What booster to use?
Posted by Brian on September 28, 1999, 02:36pm
I have a program (Fastclock+DCC) that allows me to use my Mac
laptop (connected through the serial port) to a DCC Booster to run
my trains, but I am not sure what brand booster to use, and how to
wire it..... I need one with an input to connect to "transmit" and
"ground" pins on the laptop. Can anyone help?
AOL inst. msgr. "NPscaleN"
Thanks!
-Brian
Re: What
Posted by Ed McCamey on October 20, 1999, 02:31pm
You have to use a DIY built booster
that is like the NMRAF stuff.
See the info at: http://adcc.webjump.com/
DCC wiring
Posted by Wayne Long on September 23, 1999, 09:24pm
What kind of guide lines can I use to decide where my layout
should be divided into blocks or sections for DCC use?
Also should both sides of the track be broken or just one?
Re: DCC
Posted by Ed McCamey on October 20, 1999, 02:33pm
Break it up in areas for spreading the power
around. Dense trackwork (yards) get more blocks
and long runs get split. You can also break it up
for signaling at a later time.
See: http://members.aol.com/wire4dcc/homepage.htm
Re: Re: DCC
Posted by Norman Beveridge on October 21, 1999, 12:17pm
The DCC web pages mentioned by Ed are good, but as I said
recently, the comments regarding block vs. common rail wiring
only apply to Digitrax. Without modification, Digitrax will not
work with common rail wiring. Solution: use other than Digitrax
boosters. Common rail works well with the others, and greatly
simplifies wiring.
Designing for DCC
Posted by Craig Dunn on September 20, 1999, 07:23pm
Has anything been written that would help with design work for a
DCC portable modular layout in HO? The layout has four 5 foot
square coners and the modules are 7 foot by 42 inches. Overall the
layout is 45 feet by 12 feet. Any suggestions appreciated
Re: Designing
Posted by Gerry Hopkins on September 22, 1999, 08:00pm
Craig,
We have a module system in
Sydney Australia that is HO,
USA prototype and uses DCC.
We currently used my EasyDCC
system but it will run with
Sys One and Digitrax. We use
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Peco Code 75 as the track
standard, with insulator at
the back of the frog rails.
Full details are given on my
web page (with Photos)at
http://www.flex.com.au/~gerrymmr
Regards
Gerry
DCC Wiring
Posted by Wayne Long on September 15, 1999, 12:14am
I have just finished benchwork on Atlas layout # 29 The Central
Midland
and am ready to lay track. Since I am going to use DCC control
should I wire the track in blocks as shown on the plans or just split
it up into several sections to divide power?
If anyone has the Atlas book item #13 and can look at this for me I
would greatly appreciated it. This is my second layout. My first was
The Granite Gorge which I wired all as one track using An MRC
Command Control with no problems.
This one is more complicated and I sure dont want to have to do it
over a second time .
Wayne Long
NCE DCC system
Posted by Wayne Long on September 13, 1999, 10:09pm
All I am hearing about on the bbs is Digitrax. Is anyone out there
using a NCE system and if so how do you like it? How would you
compare it to the Chief?
Re: NCE
Posted by Bob Miller on September 13, 1999, 11:53pm
I use NCE on two layouts, really like it. Only down side is delay
in getting parts
Re: NCE DCC system
Posted by Steve Z. on September 14, 1999, 08:21am
I have both a Digitrax Chief AND an NCE Powerhouse Pro.
Both are good, reliable systems. However, the NCE human
interface is FAR superior. The NCE system is intuitive and is
MUCH, MUCH easier to operate and also much simpler to use
to program locos. Digitrax is currently better supported by DCC
software vendors (automated layout control, etc.)
Re: Re: NCE DCC system
Posted by Frank Bernard on September 14, 1999, 09:06am
I have a NCE Powerhouse Pro and think that it is great. My
friend has a Digitrax Chief system and the NCE is definately a
more user friendly system. I also feel that the NCE decoders are
the best out there. Jim Scorse is very knowledgeable and is
willing to take the time to speak with you on the phone. If you
are going to be using 4 digit addresses on your engines, the only
way to go is the NCE system since entering the engine number
is done via the keypad and not spinning an encoder like on the
Digitrax system. The throttle may be a bit bigger than the
Digitrax system but it is user friendly and feels comfortable in
your hand.
Re: NCE
Posted by Jerry A. Shepardson on September 14, 1999, 02:09pm
I also have the Powerhouse Pro and I prefer it over Digitrax
because of ease of use. Everyone in my town with DCC has
Digitrax. As I watched (and tried) their systems, I felt their had
to be and easier way and the NCE system fit the bill.
Re: Re:NCE System
Posted by Wayne Long on September 15, 1999, 12:09am
Thanks everyone who responded to my question about NCE
DCC Systems. I have one on order from TTX but have never
seen one in the flesh. I have used the Chief on a friends layout
and from what I have read I think I will like the Powerhouse Pro
much better. I also think TTX is a great place to do buisness.
DCC Wiring
Posted by Wayne Long on September 13, 1999, 10:01pm
Question: Is there any reason to wire a new layout in blocks if you
are going to use DCC control?
Re: DCC
Posted by Bob Miller on September 13, 1999, 11:55pm
yes, makes it much easier to find problems by isolating the line
into blocks.
Re: Re: DCC
Posted by Steve Z. on September 14, 1999, 08:34am
Also, blocks are necessary for train detection if you plan to add
signaling. If you plan to operate many trains simultaneously,
blocks may be necessary to break layout into "power districts",
each with its own DCC power booster.
Switch machines
Posted by Thomas Gleave on September 11, 1999, 03:36pm
I need info.on,
Scale Shops slow motion switch machine.#649-1040
How low does it hang?
And is it a good product.
Are they reliable?
Can anyone help?
This is for hidden staging yard with main yard above it.
Thanks!!
Re: Switch
Posted by Ed McCamey on October 20, 1999, 02:27pm
John Wright in the UK uses these extensively
and has several pictures of their installation.
See his site at: http://home.freeuk.net/nmrabr/p87/home.htm
Learning
Posted by Randy on September 10, 1999, 10:35pm
Thank you for the BBS. I just found it and I learned a lot tonight.
Thanks Again!!
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 151

ONBOARD FOR SALE
Posted by VINCE SWEARINGEN on September 08, 1999, 03:17pm
Never used ONBOARD with manual. Will sell for $20.00 by
registered check or money order. Vince Swearingen, 206 Riva Ridge
Drive, Fairview,NC 28730 (828)628-2757
OLD REVELL N TRAIN SETS
Posted by Brian on September 08, 1999, 03:10pm
Hi all! I am looking for the old REVELL/RAPIDO set in the
Northern pacific livery.... tu-tone green with the top half being
darker. I would love to find one of these sets and would even pay
comission to somebody who could tell me where to get one.... Here
is a pic of the SANTA FE set in the series:
http://www.redshift.com/~lowery/desertchief.jpg
DCC Software
Posted by Chris Howarth on September 06, 1999, 08:29am
Which PC-based DCC software is currently available to suit System
One or NCE that will work with the Auxilliary Input Unit (AIU)
and Block Occupancy Detectors (BOD) for automatic train
operation?
152
Re: DCC Software
Posted by Leonard Stern on September 06, 1999, 02:07pm
It is my understanding that Digitoys Winlok will do the things
you are asking for. You can contact them at Digitoys.com and
download a trial version. Hope this helps you. Leonard.
Re: Re: DCC Software
Posted by Chris Howarth on September 07, 1999, 07:26am
Leonard,
Thankyou for the information. Will contact Digitoys as
suggested - appreciate the help!
Bachman 4-8-2 and DCC
Posted by Douglas Harding on September 03, 1999, 01:58pm
Correction on previous message. Once a decoder is installed
correctly the Engine runs great on DCC. But it still does not run in
analog on DCC. Without a decoder installed (correctly) it cycles
with my booster (EasyDCC) on and off through the overload/short
circut.
Re: Bachman 4-8-2 and DCC
Posted by Chris Shinn on November 14, 1999, 01:19am
I haven't seen an answer to this post, so I'll shoot.
If the decoder won't run analog, it probably needs CV29
reprogrammed to allow it to do so.
The Bachmann 4-8-2 has a problem running on DCC without a
decoder. To silence motor noise they ran a capacitor across the
motor poles (located on circuit board in tender). This causes a
detected short. Just cut one leg to this and problem gone.
Re: Re: Bachman 4-8-2 and DCC
Posted by Doug Harding on November 16, 1999, 09:24pm
Thanks for the information. I got a decoder installed and don't
deal with the problem anymore, but it was sure frustrating.
O Scale DCC
Posted by Nick Romzek on September 02, 1999, 08:09am
I would Like help figuring out what size decoders I need for O
Scale. Very Little Information out there.
Re: O Scale DCC
Posted by van on September 03, 1999, 07:51am
I have converted over 25 engines and had to do most of them
with little help from anyone so I would be glad to lend you or
anyone else my experience. I can be reached via e-mail -
vanstrains@mindspring.com
MRC Command 2000
Posted by Dave K on August 29, 1999, 05:52pm
Any one have experience with this system not being able to turn the
loco headlights on and off?
Re: MRC
Posted by rob+ on September 09, 1999, 10:16am
i have a mcr 2000 my headlite work great with my DCC engine
that came with 2000. if your trying to turn your light on+off
with a engine with out a decoder useing a trottle #1 this will not
work . this normal
Grade crossing signals
Posted by R. Grandmaison on August 25, 1999, 10:23pm
I just switched to DCC Empire Builder. Can anyone help me rewire
the Circuitron DT-2 in order to have as realistic operations as
possible of the alternation flashers.
digitrax pr1
Posted by tim on August 09, 1999, 11:55pm
HAs anyone used the PR-1? If so, is it easy to use. Problems? etc.
Re: digitrax
Posted by Jack J on August 10, 1999, 10:01pm
I have used PR-1 quite extensively.
I have found that it is important to have a very stable power
supply.
I use a homebuilt 12V filtered unit.
I use PR-1 to do most of my initial programming and find it very
useful for drawing speed curves
to match locomotives eg. Athearn SD70I and Kato SD40-2
Onboard for Sale
Posted by Roy Kell on August 09, 1999, 03:50pm
I have the following Onboard for sale, all is used but in good
working order unless noted:
1 - M5 Mixer with Xformer in enclosure
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

1 - M5 Mixer missing ammeter
3 - K116 Keypads
T1 Ch6
T1 Ch7
T1 Ch8
T1 Ch8 Unused
T1 Ch9 Unused
T2 ChD Unused
T1 Ch5 Do not know if it works
T1 Ch9 Do not know if it works
Steam sound module Ch 5 Unused
Steam sound module Ch A Unused
Manual and original yellow handle screwdriver!!!
Roughly $1000 based upon TTX price list, will sell for $600 OBO
Plus insured shipping from Chicago.
Or will trade for Digitraxx or Soundtraxx decoders.
Thanks
Contact email rksn3@inil.com for questions or offers.
Wireless at NMRA 1999
Posted by Paul Deis on August 01, 1999, 07:14pm
Did anyone have any interferance problems with the wireless
throttles used on the layouts operating at the national train show?
Re: Wireless at NMRA 1999
Posted by Harlan Warden on October 24, 1999, 12:17pm
I was very involved with control and wiring for the large
National Ntrak layout in St Paul. We used Digitrax radio
throttles for the outside laine, which followed the entire
perimeter. Multiple trains were operation. One receiver was used
at one end of the layout. No interference was noted. Only
significan loss was when operator was behind one of the large
pillers.
Wireless throttles
Posted by Paul Deis on August 01, 1999, 07:12pm
What is the real word on the delivery of the wireless throttles from
NCE or Wangrow
Re: Wireless
Posted by Bob Miller on August 02, 1999, 12:44pm
Good luck on finding out anything. Alomost impossible to get
the non radio throttles.
Re: Re:Wireless
Posted by Dustin Smith on November 11, 1999, 09:01pm
I may be a bit confused about getting the non-radio throttle. That
shouldnt be a problem but from what I have heard getting the
radio throttle is tough to find. seems the demand is greater than
the supply. Anyone heard any more information???
PS wouldnt it be nice if all DCC manufacturers would update
their websites as most of the information is at least 6 months or
more old. Tony's seems to be the most recently updated.
Re: Re: Re:Wireless
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 12, 1999, 05:02pm
But even Tony's is sort of out of date, because of the manufacturers'
sites which are linked! Too bad. Even local hobby shop
owners seem to have no clue as to what is available and when.
Tony is truly well informed. Call him!!!
decoder in Atlas S2
Posted by Bob Miller on July 14, 1999, 03:48pm
Want to install decoder in Atlas S2. looking for the hookup for
motor brushes, find that one is the brass nut on top of motor, the
other seems to be the frame around the motor. Anyone else done
this? Is that motor isolated from chassis? any ideas?
Re: decoder in Atlas S2
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on July 21, 1999, 09:42pm
The bottom brush is not insulated from frame. The frame is not
in contact with either track pick-up. I installed a DN140 decoder
and worked fine.
Re: decoder in Atlas S2
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on July 21, 1999, 10:01pm
PS - See article by Larryb Puckett in Oct 97 issue of Model
Railroading page 32 for installation instructions.
Re: Re:
Posted by Bob Miller on July 24, 1999, 06:49pm
Thanks for the info in Model Railroading, however, that
installation is for N scale, I do HO scale, so not sure the design
of the chassis is the same for both scale.
Re: Re: Re:
Posted by Frank Bernard on July 29, 1999, 03:55pm
I just installed a NCE N103 in an Atlas S2 and it works fine. I
installed the decoder in the cab. You just need to frost up the
windows and you will not be able to see it. I left the circuit board
in the unit and did some cutting to make the proper isolations so
that the decoder could be hooked up. The S2 has great slow
speed operation. If you are not adding reverse lighting, then this
decoder will be fine. If you want reverse lighting, you can use
one of the function outputs but will not have automatic reversing
of the lights. If you want a drawing of the modified circuit board
just send me an email at fbernard@optonline.net
Re: Re: decoder in Atlas S2
Posted by Norman Beveridge on August 06, 1999, 09:24am
It is true that the frame is not in contact with the rails, but why
risk it? The motor is easy to remove by taking out one screw.
Then take a piece of .010" styrene, cut to fit, and drill a hole for
a screw. Do not use the metal screw, but replace it with a plastic
screw (may need to re-tap the screw hole). Solder a small wire to
the bottom motor brush contact and you are ready!!!
Re: Re:
Posted by Bob Miller on November 13, 1999, 11:48am
I am still struggling with the decoder installation for an Atlas S2
in HO. I am using a dual signature nce decoder. I simply need to
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154
know where to solder the orange and gray wires to on the
chassis for motor pickup. Have smoked a decoder already.
Re: Re: Re:
Posted by Leonard Stern on November 13, 1999, 11:25pm
Hello Bob. Is the atlas S-2 similiar to the S-4? If so please
advise as I have installed a DN93 in an HO atlas S-4. Communicate
directly to my email. printmore1@aol.com. Leonard
Re: Re: Re: Re:
Posted by Leonard Stern on November 13, 1999, 11:36pm
To All: I used the instructions given by Loy Spurlock of
Loystoys in his web site. www.loystoys.com. I used an Unimat
to mill out the rear end of the weight. The decoder shows
partially into the cab but you can camoflage this as you wish.
Then use the existing board by following the suggested cuts in
Loy's document and do the wiring as shown. I ended up with
only the front light and I am pleased with the result. Regards.
Leonard.
Re: Re: Re:
Posted by Chris on November 14, 1999, 01:10am
You say your looking for
power pickup locations for
orange/grey wires?
NMRA standards have rail
pickup as red/black. Power
to the motor is orange/grey
Re: Re:
Posted by Bob Miller on November 14, 1999, 05:07pm
Apparently I didn't make myself clear on the decoder in the Atlas
S2. I know what the wire standards are, I have wired 31
decoders in the past few months. My question was on the Atlas
S2, not using the circuit board, where exactly on the motor do
the orange and gray wires attach? Normally these are easy to
find on other brands, on the Atlas S2, I have attached the orange
wire to the large brass nut on top of the motor on the frame,
where do I attach the gray wire? To a screw??? Where???
Re: Re:
Posted by Bob Miller on November 14, 1999, 07:46pm
Thanks to those who offered suggestions. Thirty minutes ago, I
smoked a second decoder, orange wire resistor after I had the
Alco S2 up and running. So am giving it up, not worth the
replacement bucks I will have to send NCE to repair them. I am
going to trash the Alco S2 and forget switch engines at least until
NCE can finally deliver the dual signature N gauge decoder they
have promised forever. Thanks again to those who replied.
Re: Re: Re:
Posted by JCS on November 16, 1999, 01:17pm
Bob, I have followed your thread both here and on the Atlas
forum. I haven't spoken up before because I've never installed a
decoder in my life. I do, however, notice that you are asking
where to put the second (grey) wire to the motor. All dc motors
have 2 brushes, usually mounted directly opposite one-another.
If you put the orange wire on the top of the motor, the grey one
has to go on the bottom. Take the motor out of the chassis and
look for a second brush cap on the bottom. Isolate the motor
from the frame so as not to cross the ac signal form the
controller with the dc current you want to send to the motor from
the decoder. then connect both wire, one to each brush.
Re: Re:
Posted by Bob Miller on November 16, 1999, 02:07pm
What you say about the gray and orange wires is true. However,
the Atlas S2 came with a circuit board (which I discarded too
quickly) which had no wires except track pickup wires on the
board. I was told by others on this forum a month ago that
engine had the motor isolated from the frame. I now find out
from Atlas that is not true for the one I have, and that is the
problem. I had to order an 80cent part from Atlas to make the
motor isolated. so all work has stopped pending arrival of the
part.
Re: Atlas HO S2
Posted by Bernhard Gielau on November 17, 1999, 02:38pm
Bob:
I have installed DN140 decoders into this and other similar
ROCO built engines such as the FM switcher from Walthers and
a tender-drive pacific from Roco - they all have the same motor.
The key is to insulate the motor brushes from the motor frame
and then wire the brushes to the decoder orange and grey wires.
If you need more help e-mail me at bernieg@total.net and I'll
write you how I did the installations.
Re: Re: Re:
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 18, 1999, 09:12am
Actually, the motor can be isolated with a plastic shim and plastic
screw. Remove the screw from the bottom of the motor, thus
freeing it from the loco's frame. Fit a piece of .010" plastic sheet
to the motor cavity in the frame, including not just the bottom but
also the sides, front and back (one pice of plastic with folded
"tabs" will do), and then open a hole for the screw. Replace the
metal screw with a plastic screw (actually, I have found that the
screw is not really needed). The wire for the bottom motor brush
can be attached anywhere to the motor frame, as it is in contact
with the brush cap. For best results, though, attach it to the cap.
If you keep the circuit board, wiring is easier to do by isolating a
few spots on the board and soldering to it. The motor must still
be isolated from the frame.
Re: Re:
Posted by Bob Miller on November 18, 1999, 09:32am
Thanks for all the advice. I have installed dynatrol receivers for
years which use the same four wire principle as DCC. In fact, I
still think Dynatrol is superior in many ways to what the NMRA
has crammed down our throats as a non standard standard. but I
am moving with the times, and have installed 30 something nce
decoders to date without smoking any until this engine came
along. I don't do Athearn chassis so that may be why I haven't
hit it before. But I have learned a valuable lessons, thanks to all
of you for your help.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re:
Posted by Norman Beveridge on November 18, 1999, 12:33pm
I really prefer Dynatrol as well, but for similar reasons I am
moving on to DCC. It's a shame we couldn't get 9999 channels,
consisting, and $22 receivers from PSI. The cost difference
between Dynatrol receivers and DCC decoders alone is enough
to push me over the line.
Re: Re:
Posted by Bob Miller on November 19, 1999, 11:33pm
But I do have the best of both worlds, since I am using the
Dynatrol DCC interface to NCE's DCC which lets me run both
Dynatrol and DCC at the same time, using the Dynatrol DPS's
for power instead of boosters. Of course the tradeoff here is I
have to use a dual signature decoder from nce that is more
expensive, but with my investment in Dynatrol, I can move
much slower into DCC. I have 30 something engines with
decoders, and about the same number with Dynatrol receivers
yet.
LE103 (no light)
Posted by Leonard Stern on July 08, 1999, 11:43am
I completed an install of the LE103 decoder in a P1K F-3(HO). I
programmed it with the PR1 and track tested the loco. All works
OK except I am unable to get the light to operate. I retained the
original pcb board and light(1.5v) and soldered the decoder to the
P1,4,5,6,7,8 points on the board after cutting the three traces as
marked. I did not change the light connections. Would appreciate
any help in solving this no light problem.
Re: LE103(no light)
Posted by Fred Pariselli on July 09, 1999, 02:31am
Try replacing your 1.5v bulb with a 12v bulb or higher.If
concerned about heat,solder a 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor to one
line of the 1.5v ( watch out for heat)bulb.Insulate all bare
soldered joints. The 1.5v bulb that you are now using may be
burnt out, replace or test it.
Re: LE103(no light)
Posted by Paul Wussow on July 13, 1999, 08:14am
I have been looking for a way to use the lights in brass diesels
which have 1.5V lights. Some people have suggested that I use a
resistor and 2 diodes. I have not tested this yet. But it is much
better to use the installed headlights. Any other Ideas?
Re: Re: LE103(no light)
Posted by Leonard Stern on July 18, 1999, 11:24pm
Dear Fred: Thanks for your reply. I have checked the 1.5v bulb
and it works. The problem is that there appears to be no power
to the light contacts. Testing with a 12v bulb before the resistor
and diodes works on the black and red but this setup negates the
F0 function as the light would stay on all time. It could be the
resistor and diodes but I checked the cut traces and they are in
order. Any furthur suggestions would be appreciated.
Re: re: Re: LE103(no light)
Posted by joe binish on July 22, 1999, 05:22pm
read the current issue of mrg, larry p. suggests hooking the
headlamps (use 14v bulbs) directly to the decoder to bypass
resistors nf the p1k wiring
Re: Re: re: Re: LE103(no light)
Posted by Leonard Stern on July 30, 1999, 11:33am
Joe Binish: Thanks for your advice. I followed Larry Pucketts
suggestion connecting the blue and white wires directly but no
luck. I finally connected the black and the blue wires to the 12v
light and it does work. However I do not have the F0 control
and the light stays on all the time (albeit at half voltage).I can live
with this arrangement but if you have a furthur suggestion it
would be appreciated.
Re: re: Re: re: Re: LE103(no light)
Posted by joe binish on August 13, 1999, 11:49am
you might want to test the decoder to make sure the function is
not burned up. if you want the headlamp to be on all the time at
full intensity, connect directly to the track power pickup, red and
black wires.
DT300 Throttle
Posted by Allen Gaspers on June 22, 1999, 08:10pm
Can anyone tell me anything about the new Digitrax DT300 throttle.
Allen
Re: DT300
Posted by Thomas Gleave on June 23, 1999, 05:37pm
As of April, Digitrax did not plan to make a DT300.
I spoke to them via. phone. They will be releasing other
handhelds.
But not a DT300.
They may have made one .
Can,t fined any info. on it.
Soundtraxx Programming
Posted by Steve Z. on June 15, 1999, 09:49am
We change addresses on Soundtraxx decoders all the time without
incident: new short, new long, short to long, long to short. Maybe
your command station is somehow screwing things up ??
DCC in Bachman Center Cab
Posted by Doug Harding on June 09, 1999, 11:48pm
Need suggestions for DCC decoder for installation in a Backman
Spectrum Center Cab. The hoods are too narrow for the Lenz 103
or Digitrax DH120. Suggestions related to the light bar would be
appreciated.
Re: DCC in Bachman Center Cab
Posted by Michael Mosher on June 24, 1999, 09:27pm
I installed a Digitrax DN-144K decoder in a 44 tonner. This
decoder was intended for N scale Kato C44-9W but it is the
same size as the Bachmann 44 tonner light board. You need to
remove the motor connection "wings".
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 155

Onboard et. al.
Posted by craig dunn on June 07, 1999, 10:28am
Has anyone been able to run Onboard at the same time running a
DCC system? It seems when Keller closed shop, that was the
direction he was headed. Please reply to craidunn@enoreo.on.ca
156
Re: Onboard
Posted by Mark Gurries on June 19, 1999, 10:04pm
Keller never finished his version of DCC. The NMRA
standards made it difficult if not impossible to allow operation of
onboard at the same time. However, you can use Keller Onboard
sound units with DCC. But, it takes a little electrical knowhow
and the desire to take apart you sound unit and modify it.
Soundtrax & Programing
Posted by Thomas Gleave on June 06, 1999, 09:07am
Problem:
Myself and friend have 3 soundtrax decoders, when changing
address from stanard 03 to another
we lost directioal
lighting in all 3. 1 is in llGP9,1 in LLGP7, 1 in Bach. 2-8-0.
All sounds still work properly but no lighting.
Has anyone ever come across this before.
Can it be changed.
Re: Soundtrax
Posted by Thomas Gleave on June 16, 1999, 04:17pm
Problem solved.
Speed steps were not matched.
All is well
CVP Products/turnout cntrl
Posted by Mel Chase on May 18, 1999, 01:50am
Website: www.cvpusa.com
P.O. Box 835772
Richardson, TX 75083
972-422-2169
972-516-9527 (fax)
The AD4 accessory decoder is featured in the Setember 1998 Model
Railroader. It starts on page 98 by Keith Gutierrez and Lee Rayburn.
Power filter
Posted by Bill Baldock on May 08, 1999, 01:06am
Has anyone out there worked
out a good filter for powering
old sound systems off DCC
track power?
MRC Decoders
Posted by D.A.Holl on May 03, 1999, 03:13pm
Has anyone succeeded in programming the Athearn F7 with an
MRC decoder using Digitrax Chief? If so, how did you do it?
Re: MRC Decoders
Posted by Sean on May 09, 1999, 07:11pm
When programming MRC decoders on the Digitrax Chief, the
DT100 will say FAIL after writting to the decoder, WRONG, it
may say fail but it wrote to it. Make sure the CV29 is set for 28
steps and the status corrosponds to the 28 step ops. See book for
details.
Throttle/lite
Posted by Thomas Gleave on April 28, 1999, 11:43pm
The DT300 is only a rumor.
Spoke to Digitrax, they will be releasing other
throttles but not a DT300.
throttle/lite
Posted by E. T. Halloran on April 21, 1999, 02:39pm
Has anyone installed a back-lite in the DT100 for nite operation?
Also illuminate
buttons and dials.
Re: throttle/lite
Posted by Sean on April 25, 1999, 05:39pm
The trouble with installing a lite is that by opening the throttle,
you void the warrenty. Now if you know what your doing, then
you can make your own repairs within reason. Digitrax will
soon be releasing the DT300 which will be the competitor with
the big fancy Wangrow cab. That will hopefully be backlighted.
DCC and Dynatrol
Posted by Bob Miller, MMR on April 14, 1999, 08:47pm
I am running both on a system that has been regular dynatrol for
years, and am having good luck, even though losing a few of the
Dynatrol channels. Biggest problems has been getting the components
I need, dealing with two vendors and a shop is frustrating
after dealing with just dynatrol for everything. But they are
compatible.
MRC COMMAND 2000
Posted by Roger on April 08, 1999, 11:48pm
Anyone using the MRC Command 2000 and not regretting it?
I need help making a decision.
Re: MRC COMMAND 2000
Posted by Jay on April 09, 1999, 03:03pm
I recently began using the MRC 2000 and I have not experienced
any problems.
Re: Re:
Posted by Roger on April 09, 1999, 09:30pm
Jay - what other DCC control units did you consider?
What kind of power supply did you hook up to it?
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Re: Re: Re:
Posted by Dave Poor on January 15, 2000, 06:17pm
I use the MRC Command 2000 system. Overall I like it. Several
drawbacks are inabilty to move around the layout with train if
you are using throttles 1,2,3 group a and 1,2,3 in group b. You
are tied down to the command center. Another is inability to cut
engines away from each other on same track as with the NCE
system. Had I known what I was getting at the time, I'd have
gone with NCE
Re: Re: Re:
Posted by Ed Briley on January 18, 2000, 10:35pm
I would think one would quickly outgrow the MRC system
except on a very small layout. I wrestled with a Digitrax vs
EasyDCC decision. Winner was EasyDCC-you don't program
from the hand held units, only from the Command Station so a
carless operator cannot mess up everyone's programming during
an operating session. Also with EasyDCC you don't have to
memorize l o n g
key stoke sequences to do stuff on the fly. Just follow a logical
sequence.
Good Luck,
Ed
Command Turntable with a Digitrak DS54
Posted by Dennis Smerz on April 03, 1999, 07:37pm
Can anyone help me with info on
to setup and command a Heljan
turntable (indexing) with a
Digitrak DS54 unit?
Re: Command
Posted by Dennis Smerz on April 20, 1999, 12:40pm
Does anyone out there have any
experience or attempts at indexing
any turntables using a Digitrax
DS54 stationary decoder?
Circutiron
Posted by Thomas Gleave on March 14, 1999, 08:23am
Circutiron Tc-3 board, does anyone have wiring diagram, it allows
you to wire switch panels to control turnout machines from 2
different locations.
DCC vs Dynatrol DCC
Posted by E Bradbury on March 10, 1999, 09:34pm
Can you tell me the difference between the NMRA DCC and the
DCC system Dynatrol sells?
Re: DCC vs Dynatrol DCC
Posted by Norman Beveridge on March 22, 1999, 04:57pm
Dynatrol DCC works with the digital signal piggy-backed to a
DC track voltage, whereas standard DCC works with AC track
voltage. The Dynatrol dual service decoders (NCE DS type) can
work with either system, but standard DCC decoders cannot
read the Dynatrol DC digital signal.
The advantage of Dynatrol DCC is that most of the Dynatrol
analog channels will work right along with the DCC. Thus you
would not have to replace your Dynatrol analog receivers
wholesale.
Turnout machines
Posted by Thomas Gleave on March 07, 1999, 09:14pm
Problem,
I need to know how to be able to switch the same turnout machine
(tortoise) from 2 different track panels in 2 different locations.
Also has to have panel leds included for indication
Iam wired for Bi polar DC with SPDT toggles.
Can it be done?
Can anyone help?
Re: Turnout machines
Posted by Steve Z. on March 10, 1999, 08:25am
Replace toggles on both panels with SPDT On-Off-On (center
off) momentary toggles. Attach tortoise to DPDT latching relay
which will switch polarity to switch machine (and thus direction).
Wire toggles to pulse appropriate side of latching relay to
move switch in correct direction. Use normal tortoise contacts to
light LEDs on both panels.
Re: Turnout machines
Posted by Mel Chase on May 06, 1999, 09:23pm
I am using CVProducts AD4 kits to control my turnouts and
grade crossing lights. They can be operated from my Digitrax
Throttles or one or more push buttons located elsewhere
(provides a ground to the AD4 input). Each board will contol 4
switch machines or other accesories. The kits take less than an
hour to build and come in 2 sizes. Normal size to control
Tortoise type machines and heavy duty. I have programmed the
grade crossings so the lights flash alternately every second. They
have a very nice product. I am very pleased.
Re: Turnout machines
Posted by Hal on May 14, 1999, 09:42pm
Mel Chase-
How can I find out about CVProducts?
Re: Re:CVP prods.
Posted by Thomas Gleave on May 15, 1999, 07:32am
They have a web site
WWW.cvpusa.com
Re: Re:
Posted by Craig G. on August 10, 1999, 11:54pm
Do you have a wiring diagram for the latching relay, tortoise and
switches?
switches
Posted by Leo on March 07, 1999, 04:46pm
I am looking for 6 gargrave switches with twin-coil polaris motor
attached(in 1 piece)
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 157

TrainCam
Posted by George Bono on March 06, 1999, 11:25pm
Would like some feedback from owners of TrainCam. Any N scale
users?
Good and bad features. What to do and not to do. I will us it on N
scale modules and home layouts. TIA GB
Block Detection with Digitrax
Posted by Don McGinlay on March 01, 1999, 01:45pm
I notice Digitrax has a block detector for the system (BD1 used in
conjunction with DS54), but what is the feedback mechanism to the
operator? How do I know that a train is specific block?
Thanks!
158
Re: Block
Posted by Thomas Gleave on March 02, 1999, 06:37pm
You can either have detection display on a panel w/leds on side
of layout, or have it on a signaling system.
Re: Re: Block
Posted by Don McGinlay on March 07, 1999, 02:36pm
Does the Digitrax system get an actual signal, so it can display it
on a throttle or can a computer application via an loco-net to
RS232 interface detect an occupied block?
Ideally, this would be perfect for complete automatic control by a
computer application interfaced to a Digitrax system.
Re: Re: Block
Posted by Steve Z. on March 10, 1999, 08:36am
Loconet does provide for block detection and switch feedback.
Winlok 2.x is a computer program which will display/use this
info for automated control using Digitrax and other DCC
systems. TTX sells it.
Isolating motor N-scale
Posted by Ken Hurzeler on February 27, 1999, 02:42pm
In preparing to install my 1st decoder, I still have questions on how
the motor needs to be insulated electrically. I plan on converting a
Kato SD-45. Can someone share there specific experience in this
area or on other non-plug and play N-scale diesal.
ctc-80
Posted by norm on February 21, 1999, 02:52pm
restarting my railroad which has been down for sixteen months
because of move.
now i will have a much bigger layout from 15x15 to 50x30
since ctc-80 is no longer in business should I go to the new system
which is now a stardard or stay with ctc-80.
Re: ctc-80
Posted by leonard stern on February 21, 1999, 04:08pm
the digtrax chief is the way to go.it is innovative and support is
excellent.
Re: ctc-80
Posted by Thomas Gleave on February 22, 1999, 12:11am
Go with DCC, Digitrax Cheif, great system
Decoder Selection
Posted by Don Vollrath on February 19, 1999, 05:37pm
Does anyone have an unbiased selector guide for determining the
easiest DCC decoder installation for a variety of HO scale locos?
Any way to install DCC in a Kato NW2 or a P2K SW9/1200
without butchering the metal or factory supplied pcb?
Tony, you handle and see a variety of brands. This should be right
up your alley.
Re: Decoder Selection
Posted by leonard stern on February 19, 1999, 08:38pm
i had a similiar question. got 2 answers. 1 from digitax and 1
from loys toys. both recommended a dz 120 or dz 121. you just
have to cut off a bit of the weight and cut 3 traces. no big deal.
loys toys said that they will send a detail sheet for installation
but i guess that implies that you order the decoder from them.
keep in touch as i have yet to do this installation. leonard stern.
email printmore1@aol.com.
MRC 2000 & Lenz Decoders
Posted by Rex Elmes on February 06, 1999, 02:06am
I was having trouble with my MRC 2000 DCC controller losing
contact with Lenz 103 decoder equipped locos (MRC decoders had
no problem). I found that a 0,022uF capacitor across the track feed
fixed my problem.
PFM sound for sale
Posted by Bob Du Bois on January 20, 1999, 02:55pm
Complete PFM Sound System II for sale. Includes: console, reverb,
audio splitter, 3 tape player w/tapes, several RF traps, capacitors,
etc. for engine installation. Original boxes and manuals. Asking
$800. This is a complete system ready to go. I bought it new several
years ago.
Model Railroad Photos
Posted by George Swalagin on January 15, 1999, 10:53pm
For anyone who is interested in Model Railroading Photos. I just
bought a Kodak DC210 Plus digital camera. I think computer digital
cameras are the way to go for model railroaders. I have 6 photos of
my layout at my web site www.bestweb.net/~swal. Take a look and
see if you agree. Take some photos, load them into your computer,
pick the ones you like, delete the bad ones, take some more.
Nothing like it for speed.
Digi dt300/& sound
Posted by Chris S. on January 15, 1999, 08:16pm
In the latest MR, TTX lists new items for 1999 from Digitrax
(dt300 & signal control). There is no info on the Digitrax or TTX
websites yet, though.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007

Anyone who knows, please post.
decoders with sound
Posted by Fernando Russek on January 06, 1999, 06:43pm
For a MRC DCC command 2000 can I get decoders with sound
included, and what equipment is needed to operate?
Mantua Steam Locomotives
Posted by Mike Tillger on January 01, 1999, 06:13pm
Any tips on improving the performance of the Mantua steam
locomotives. Mine seem to suffer from poor electrical pickup. Some
run good on left curves others better on straight track, still others on
track curved to the right. I have gone over them mechanically and
have improved some of them, but after installing a volt and amp
meter it appears that they have erratic electrical pickup. I definitely
need to improve this before I convert them over to decoders. Any
one have any suggestions. Thanks,
Mike T.
Re: Mantua Steam Locomotives
Posted by Art Pitt on January 03, 1999, 11:10pm
I got rid of my Mantuas. If you have a Dremel tool, try cleaning
the wheels with a rubber disk. It may help. Mantua makes fine
looking locos, but I hate those traction tires.
Re: Mantua Steam Locomotives
Posted by Steve Zeff on January 04, 1999, 03:39pm
Mine have problems, too !! If you come up with a solution,
please post it here. I am contemplating putting brass pickup
shoes on the tenders.
Re: Mantua
Posted by Roger Aultman on January 31, 1999, 01:12am
One weak point is the contact
between the tender and the
trucks, make sure there is no
oxidation at this poin or
better yet attach a wire to
the trucks for better pickup.
Re: Re: Mantua
Posted by Leonard Stern on January 31, 1999, 10:02am
I too have had the same problem.In addition to the suggestions
already proposed I have this to offer. If you study the construction
of the Mantua trucks the sideframes are pressed on the
bolster with a punch machine.The metal of these two parts are
different and oxidation could occur in the unseen part of the
connection.There are 2 solutions:1)take the truck apart(this is not
an easy job) and reassemble using a brass screw threaded
through the connection between sideframe and bolster.2)replace
the trucks with a better quality.
Re: Mantua Steam Locomotives
Posted by E. T. Hackett on February 13, 1999, 06:06pm
Poor contact is a personal phobia of mine. I have installed
wipers (phosphre bronze) on all axels (both engine and tender)
of all my locos. Use lots of small wires rather than one big one.
Sliding contacts are much more reliable than rolling. Now I just
have to worry about wheel-rail contact and LPS-1 seems to take
care of that except for construction dust.
Plug Pinout
Posted by Norman Beveridge on January 01, 1999, 02:37pm
Although I have used command control (Dynatrol) for many years,
I am new to DCC and would like to know the pinout for the
standard DCC plug which is now included on many locomotives. I
need not only the function of each of the 8 pins, but also their
arrangement in the plug and socket.
Also, I would like to know what values are allowed in the programmable
speed tables. I would like to restrict maximum speed for
many of my loco sets.
Thanks.
Re: Plug Pinout
Posted by Tomas Szoboszlai on February 22, 1999, 08:53pm
This is based on a Lenz 104XF. But, all should be the same.
Pin 1= motor terminal former right rail
Pin 2= rear headlight
Pin 3= function F(1)
Pin 4= Left rail pickup
Pin 5= motor terminal former left rail
Pin 6= forward Headlight
Pin 7= Headlight positive common
Pin 8= Right rail pickup
Basic decoders (including Lenz 103XF and 104XF) have no Pin
3 output. Advanced Decoders have extra outputs beyond those
on the NMRA plug.
BTW, all this should be in the instructions.
Arrangement of the NMRA plug is couterclockwise starting at
top left, down three sockets, right one, up four.
Something like:
1 8
2 7
3 6
4 5
Re: Plug Pinout
Posted by Don Vollrath on February 24, 1999, 09:17am
For a description of DCC standards and practices see various
websites starting with www.nmra.org. Jump/Link to Standards
& Recommended Practices (RPs) sites, maintained by other
volunteers. RP 9.1.1 contains what you want to see about the
DCC plug.
However, these are only RECOMMENDED practices. Only a
few engine manufacturers follow them exactly.
The LLProto-1000 F3 for example has holes in the PCB for
DCC connections, not a socket, numbered per RP9.1.1, but they
are of the wrong spacing, and you must cut copper traces to get
DCC to work.
In most cases you will need to trace out pcb wiring and compare
it to DCC decoder info from the manufacturer before installing.
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007 159

Decoder programming
Posted by Stuart Hall on December 09, 1998, 02:37am
I have a Mac computer which I would
like to replace with another Mac.
In the not to distant future, I
am planning to program decoders for
my N scale layout.
Is there a program available on the
market for the Mac? Thanks, Stuart
Decoder install
Posted by Stuart Hall on December 09, 1998, 02:31am
One for you Tony (TTX).
I have an N scale OMI three unit
gas turbine on order and would
like to install Soundtrax decoders
Is there one available and more
importantly, can they be fitted
with decoders? Thanks, Stuart
Digitrax Chief
Posted by Chris S. on December 04, 1998, 11:58pm
Just hooked up new chief radio
system 2 weeks ago. Great fun!
TTX article states there is a
problem re: needing to short
reg/green bus wires?? I have
had no problems with DT100R.
I have run 3 with no throttle
plugged in. What is the problem you describe ??
160
Re: Digitrax Chief
Posted by David Wakefield on January 04, 1999, 04:45pm
Chris;
No answer to your query, but just to let you know I have had the
same experience. My DT100/IR works just fine without the
shunt that TTX suggests. Perhaps a change in software/
hardware by Digitrax?
David
Re: Re: Digitrax Chief
Posted by Zach on March 27, 1999, 09:51pm
I ordered the radio-controlled Cheif from TTX when it first came
out. I have no problems.
EasyCAB Master/Slave
Posted by Ernie Poole on December 04, 1998, 03:29pm
I have 4 EasyCAB power supplies. They are built and tested. I have
gone to EasyDCC, so would make a good price to anyone interested.
Onboard for sale
Posted by Ken Jaglinski on December 03, 1998, 09:12am
I am switching to digital command control and have the following
for sale in the near future!
T1 controller - E, E*, 2, F*, D*, E, D, B, 7, F, 4, 3, A, D, 5, F, C, 6
at $15.00 each.
K220 Key pad - 2 at $25.00 ea
K110 Key pad - 7 at 10.00 ea
M10 mixer 1 at $20.00
Call 414-963-9643
Email jagmk@execpc.com
write Ken Jaglinksi 863 E Birch Milwaukee WI 53217
Re: Onboard for sale
Posted by craig dunn on June 03, 1999, 09:09pm
Do you still have the Onboard equipment? If yes, do you wish
to sell it all at once, or will you deal in parts? Contact at
craidunn@enoreo.on.ca
Craig
MRC 4000
Posted by tim on November 18, 1998, 10:06pm
I have a 2000, any info on the 4000 would be greatly appreciated.
MRC Command 4000
Posted by Randy on November 12, 1998, 03:20pm
What the lowdown or the MRC command 4000?
What are the feature improvements?
When is it expected to arrive?
I also have heard about being able to link multiple Command 200
units.
What does this do for you?
Thanks
Original Tony’s Train Exchange Web Bulletin Board System, 1998-2007