Lawlessness threatens to turn heart of Athens into no-go zone

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HISTORICAL PLACES
Leros, scene of
Churchill’s folly
The location and the deep
sheltered harbors on the island of
Leros made it the likely theater of
huge power rivalry. When Italy
capitulated on September 8, 1943,
after holding the Dodecanese
Islands for 31 years, Winston
Churchill seized the opportunity to
open up a new front in the eastern
Mediterranean, while also
providing encouragement for
nearby Turkey to join the alliance.
British and – a much smaller
number of – Greek troops landed
on Leros, where the main body of
Italian troops were stationed with
the assistance of naval forces but
with little or no air cover.
On September 26, the Germans
carried out a surprise air attack,
sinking a British and a Greek
destroyer in Lakki. They continued
heavy bombardment until
November 12, when they launched
“Enterprise Typhoon” – an
invasion from the nearby islands
of Kos and Kalymnos which
involved landing troops in several
different bays, including in Vagia
and Gournes.
Heavy fighting ensued for several
days, with the Germans using
commandos and paratroopers of
the esteemed Brandenburg
Division, backed by ample air and
sea support. A British
counteroffensive on November 15
yielded little result and Cairo
headquarters called a withdrawal
on the following day.
The British forces sustained over
700 dead and had 3,200 captured,
but many, including the head of
Special Boat Regiment, Lord
Jellicoe, managed to escape to
Turkey. The Italians, who also
resisted the Germans, suffered far
greater losses but their exact
number has not been determined.
The 1961 film “The Guns of
Navarone,” based on Alistair
MacLean’s best-selling novel, was
probably inspired by the battle of
Leros – this is why the fictional
island was called Keros but other
similarities between the film and
actual events are scant. For an
excellent work on this notorious
operation, read Anthony Rogers’s
“Churchill’s Folly: Leros and the
Aegean.” The battle was the last
successful German invasion of the
Second World War.
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ESCAPES & DIVERSIONS
Corinth Canal
Take in the dream
of the ancient mariner
Drama
The wine route of Dionysus
The valley of Drama, in eastern Macedonia, has long been
one of the most traditional viticulture and winemaking
regions in Greece. According to legend, this is where the
ancient Greek god Dionysus was raised.
The area is the starting point of the Route of Dionysus, one of
eight wine routes across northern Greece planned by the
Wine Producers Association of Northern Greece and designed
to acquaint visitors with the industry as well as with a wide
spectrum of local cultural heritage.
The route starts at Mt Paggaio, from the ancient city of
Amphipolis, continues to Kokkinohori, at Vivlia Hora estate
and then by the seaside road to the city of Kavala. From there,
it reaches the Wine Art Estate in Microhori and the Pavlidis
Estate, 17 kilometers west of Drama, near Kokkinogia village.
The vineyard stretches over about 18 hectares and its red
clayish soil is perfectly suited to the native grape varieties
Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko and Limnio, as well as a wide range of
foreign ones. The estate is also open for winetasting and
gastronomy meetings and seminars. While there, visitors can
also visit the impressive Mara cave at the nearby village of
Aggitis. The route continues west toward Serres, and reaches
the impressive Kerkini wetland. On the way back, it passes
through Kavala and continues to the east up to Maronia in
Thrace, ending near the border town of Soufli.
The city of Drama hosts the international Short Film Festival
from September 15-20. The region is ideal for nature lovers,
especially the beautiful forest of Elati.
Log on to www.wineroads.gr
for more details.
ATHENSPLUS • FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 2008
AROUND GREECE
BY HARIS ARGYROPOULOS
In antiquity, entire ships and their cargos were hauled the 6.3
kilometers from the Gulf of Corinth to the Saronic Gulf, saving
themselves a voyage of 200 miles around the Peloponnesian
peninsula, no small economy in those days of pirate and other
hostile vessels, not to mention the risk of storms. After
centuries of attempts, the Corinth Canal was finally dug, an
engineering feat that was completed in 1893.
Fees for vessels transiting the canal are the most expensive
per kilometer in the world (starting at 120 euros one way,
depending on category and flag). The canal is one of the few
places in Greece where tides are noticeable (another is the
strait between Evia and the mainland at Halkida).
The canal is 24.6 meters wide at sea level and 21.3 meters at
the seabed; its depth ranges from 7.5-8 meters. The isthmus
footbridge (quieter since the new highway bridges were built
a short distance away) is a good place to watch the ships sail
by underneath in convoy. At each end of the canal are cafes
beside the car bridges at sea level, which open to allow the
vessels through at regular intervals. Cruises through the
canal are scheduled daily in summer from Isthmia.
For schedules and bookings, call 27.410.30.880. More
information is available at www.corinthcanal.com.
Cyclades
Irakleia
If you want to get away
from it all, Irakleia, a small
Cycladic island of some 90
people south of Naxos, is an
ideal place, especially now
that the summer crowds
have left.
The best way to see Irakleia
is on foot. There are only
two settlements on this
island of 18 square
kilometers: the port village
of Aghios Georgios, a group
of houses spread over the
hill behind the deep natural
harbor with plenty of rooms
and tavernas, and Hora, also
known as Panaghia, a 40minute
walk from Aghios
Georgios. The latter is a
pleasant one-street village
with fine views of the
surrounding islands, and
just a couple of shops and a
cafe. The road and the
footpath that run through
the middle of the island will
take you to unspoilt beaches
with crystal clear waters,
the castle ruins at Livadi,
just 15 minutes’ walk from
the port, or the large cave of
Ai-Giannis, with very
interesting stalactites and
stalagmites, one hour away
from Hora.
There is also a fine beach at
Livadi, with one building
offering rooms for rent. The
highest peak is Papas, at
419 meters, with amazing
views. The bay of Merihas,
on the southern coast, is
surrounded by imposing
vertical cliffs 150 meters
high. A boat leaves Naxos at
3 p.m. daily and the journey
takes an hour and a half.
There are no buses, taxis,
gas stations or banks. There
are no authorities other
than the municipality office.
There are two pharmacies
and two doctors and water
is available for yachts at the
port. Villa Zografou
(22850.71946), between the
port and Hora, offers double
rooms for 25 euros a night
from September 10 to the
end of October.
Attica
Up, up and away
The Greek climate is particularly suited for paragliding and
there are several clubs and schools and plenty of sites
around the country from which you can take off. Autumn
and spring are the most active periods for the sport.
Free Sky (www.freesky.org, tel 6977.674.080) organizes
flights from two points, Kandyli, near Mandra, and Plataies
on Mt Kitheronas, both in Attica. There are more points in
Amfiklia on Mt Parnassus, Delphi, Mt Hymettus and at
Chtypas near Halkida.
Contact the Greek Aeronautics Federation (www.elao.gr,
210.964.9788) for more information.
Epirus
A peaceful getaway
The Papaevangelou guest house is in the village of Megalo
Papingo, about 60 kilometers northwest of the city of
Ioannina and in the middle of the Vikos National Park.
Just a five-minute walk on an unpaved road from the
village center, the guest house is extremely peaceful. Goat
bells, birds and rushing water are all you hear.
Giorgos and Markella Papaevangelou have built two
traditional stone houses in this wonderful spot. There are
10 rooms and four studios in the bigger of the two
structures. All rooms are comfortable, pleasantly oldfashioned
and spacious, with baths, telephone facilities,
autonomous heating arrangements (some with fireplaces)
and amazing views. The studios each have a TV and a fridge
in addition to the aforementioned facilities.
Giorgos serves impressive breakfasts in the bar/sitting
room in the smaller of the two buildings. The area, which
has a fireplace, is open to guests throughout the day.
The Vikos National Park is superb for outdoor activities.
There are trekking routes leading to alpine lakes, while
canyoning and exploration with 4x4 vehicles are also
excellent options.
A double room with breakfast costs 85-100 euros per night.
Call 26530.41135 or 6946.044.260, e-mail
info@hotelpapaevangelou.gr, or log on to
http://www.papaevangelou.gr for details.