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BarbarousMexico JOHN KENNETH TURNER

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THE SLAVES OF YUCATAN<br />

the Civil War. And always the result has been in favor<br />

of the black man. Our slaves of the South were almost<br />

always well fed, as a rule they were not overworked, on<br />

many plantations they were rarely beaten, it was usual to<br />

give them a little spending money now and then and to<br />

allow them to leave the plantation at least once a week.<br />

Like the slaves of Yucatan they were cattle of the ranch,<br />

but, unlike the former, they were treated as well as cattle.<br />

In the South before the War there were not so<br />

many plantations where the negroes died faster than<br />

they were born. The lives of our black slaves were not<br />

so hard but that they could laugh, sometimes—and sing.<br />

But the slaves of Yucatan do not sing!<br />

I shall never forget my last day in Merida. Merida<br />

is probably the cleanest and most beautiful little city in all<br />

Mexico. It might even challenge comparison in its white<br />

prettiness with any other in the world. The municipality<br />

has expended vast sums on paving, on parks and on<br />

public buildings, and over and above this the henequen<br />

kings not long since made up a rich purse for improvements<br />

extraordinary. My last afternoon and evening<br />

in Yucatan I spent riding and walking about the wealthy<br />

residence section of Merida. Americans might expect<br />

to find nothing of art and architecture down on this<br />

rocky Central American peninsula, but Merida has its<br />

million dollar palaces like New York, and it has miles of<br />

them set in miraculous gardens.<br />

Wronclerf il Mexican palaces! Wonderful Mexican<br />

gardens! A wonderful fairyland conjured out of<br />

slavery—slavery of Mayas, and of Yaquis. Among the<br />

Yucatan slaves there are ten Mayas to one Yaqui, but<br />

of the two the story of the Yaquis appealed to me the<br />

more. The Mayas are dying in their own land and<br />

with their own people. The Yaquis are exiles. They<br />

35

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