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TIMESBUSINESS<br />

Garment sec<strong>to</strong>r plots bright<br />

future, with Western help<br />

April 29 - May 5, 2013<br />

25<br />

Domestic fashion<br />

<strong>in</strong>dustry thriv<strong>in</strong>g<br />

By My<strong>at</strong> May Z<strong>in</strong><br />

By Soe Sandar Oo<br />

THE lift<strong>in</strong>g of European Union<br />

sanctions on April 22 might<br />

herald a bright future for<br />

<strong>Myanmar</strong>’s garment sec<strong>to</strong>r<br />

if the country can benefit<br />

from the generalised system<br />

of preference st<strong>at</strong>us, which<br />

lowers import tariffs, <strong>in</strong> the EU<br />

and United St<strong>at</strong>es.<br />

U My<strong>in</strong>t Soe, chairman<br />

of the <strong>Myanmar</strong> Garment<br />

Manufacturers Associ<strong>at</strong>ion<br />

(MGMA), said <strong>at</strong> the start of<br />

a bus<strong>in</strong>ess m<strong>at</strong>ch<strong>in</strong>g event<br />

between <strong>Myanmar</strong> and Hong<br />

Kong garment and textile<br />

<strong>in</strong>dustries on April 24 th<strong>at</strong><br />

<strong>Myanmar</strong> might be granted<br />

GSP st<strong>at</strong>us on June 4.<br />

“EU sanctions were lifted<br />

last Monday and hopefully we<br />

will be granted GSP st<strong>at</strong>us<br />

by the US on June 4,” he<br />

<strong>to</strong>ld the 30 represent<strong>at</strong>ives <strong>at</strong><br />

the meet<strong>in</strong>g, which was held<br />

<strong>at</strong> the Union of <strong>Myanmar</strong><br />

Feder<strong>at</strong>ion of Chambers of<br />

Commerce and Industry. “This<br />

is the huge opportunity for<br />

<strong>in</strong>tern<strong>at</strong>ional companies <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong>vest <strong>in</strong> <strong>Myanmar</strong>’s garment<br />

sec<strong>to</strong>r.”<br />

“If we can get GSP st<strong>at</strong>us<br />

from the US it will mean we<br />

can do more bus<strong>in</strong>ess with<br />

<strong>in</strong>tern<strong>at</strong>ional companies.<br />

They will be able <strong>to</strong> <strong>in</strong>vest <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>Myanmar</strong> and be assured th<strong>at</strong><br />

they can get access <strong>to</strong> the EU<br />

and US markets,” he said.<br />

U My<strong>in</strong>t Soe said<br />

<strong>Myanmar</strong>’s garment sec<strong>to</strong>r<br />

had many <strong>in</strong>centives for foreign<br />

companies, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g tax<br />

breaks, cheap labour and an<br />

<strong>at</strong>tractive foreign <strong>in</strong>vestment<br />

law. However, he said electricity<br />

shortages <strong>in</strong> the hot months<br />

were problem<strong>at</strong>ic but expected<br />

the shortages would be solved<br />

by the government, which is<br />

work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>to</strong> ensure adequ<strong>at</strong>e<br />

supplies.<br />

<strong>Myanmar</strong>’s garment exports<br />

hit a high of about US$826<br />

million <strong>in</strong> 2001, just before<br />

the United St<strong>at</strong>es announced<br />

Workers stitch garments <strong>at</strong> a garment fac<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>in</strong> Yangon last week. Pic: Aung Htay Hla<strong>in</strong>g<br />

a ban on imports. But by<br />

2012, the value of exports had<br />

recovered <strong>to</strong> more than $900<br />

million, with more than 75<br />

percent shipped <strong>to</strong> Japan and<br />

South Korea. Less than $200<br />

million worth of goods were<br />

sent <strong>to</strong> Europe.<br />

U Aung W<strong>in</strong>, MGMA vice<br />

chairman, <strong>to</strong>ld The <strong>Myanmar</strong><br />

Times: “We have cont<strong>in</strong>uously<br />

made and exported garments<br />

s<strong>in</strong>ce 1993. We are wait<strong>in</strong>g for<br />

GSP st<strong>at</strong>us but we must also<br />

ensure th<strong>at</strong> our quality levels<br />

meet the standards required<br />

for those markets.”<br />

He added th<strong>at</strong> there are more<br />

than 300 garment fac<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>Myanmar</strong>.<br />

Daw San San My<strong>in</strong>t,<br />

deputy direc<strong>to</strong>r of <strong>Myanmar</strong><br />

Investment Commission’s<br />

Yangon branch, which opened<br />

on April 10, said most of the<br />

<strong>in</strong>form<strong>at</strong>ion requests handled<br />

by the office s<strong>in</strong>ce it was opened<br />

have concerned the garment<br />

sec<strong>to</strong>r. She added th<strong>at</strong> 25 of<br />

40 requests have been about<br />

the sec<strong>to</strong>r.<br />

“MIC has <strong>to</strong> expla<strong>in</strong> <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong>ves<strong>to</strong>rs about the foreign<br />

<strong>in</strong>vestment law first, especially<br />

equity ownership r<strong>at</strong>ios, as<br />

well as tax<strong>at</strong>ion,” she said.<br />

“Companies from S<strong>in</strong>gapore,<br />

Hong Kong and Taiwan have<br />

shown the gre<strong>at</strong>est <strong>in</strong>terest<br />

so far but I th<strong>in</strong>k there might<br />

be <strong>in</strong>vestments made from the<br />

EU and possibly Canada <strong>to</strong>o<br />

if <strong>Myanmar</strong> is granted GSP<br />

st<strong>at</strong>us,” she said.<br />

Mr Lewis Leung, president<br />

of Price Edward Road<br />

Management <strong>in</strong> Hong Kong,<br />

which oper<strong>at</strong>ed garment<br />

fac<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>in</strong> <strong>Myanmar</strong> from<br />

1995 <strong>to</strong> 2000, said <strong>Myanmar</strong><br />

could compete with Cambodia<br />

and Bangladesh if it receives<br />

GSP st<strong>at</strong>us.<br />

“<strong>Myanmar</strong> can compete with<br />

them but the profit won’t be as<br />

high as <strong>in</strong> Bangladesh,” he said.<br />

“I am <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>vest<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />

Bago Region because it is so<br />

near <strong>to</strong> Yangon and has a large<br />

available workforce,” he said.<br />

He added th<strong>at</strong> the quality of<br />

<strong>Myanmar</strong>’s garments is good.<br />

However, U My<strong>in</strong>t Soe<br />

said companies would<br />

need <strong>to</strong> <strong>in</strong>crease their<br />

awareness of <strong>in</strong>tern<strong>at</strong>ional<br />

standards, especially labour<br />

rights and conditions. But<br />

the MGMA, Intern<strong>at</strong>ional<br />

Labour Organis<strong>at</strong>ion and<br />

labour activists would assist<br />

companies <strong>in</strong> this effort.<br />

He added th<strong>at</strong> the average<br />

wage for a garment worker is<br />

about $100 a month.<br />

U My<strong>at</strong> Th<strong>in</strong> Aung,<br />

chairman of the Hla<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Tharyar Industrial Zone, said<br />

many <strong>in</strong>tern<strong>at</strong>ional companies<br />

oper<strong>at</strong>e garment fac<strong>to</strong>ries<br />

<strong>in</strong> Thailand but might shift<br />

production <strong>to</strong> <strong>Myanmar</strong> if it is<br />

given GSP st<strong>at</strong>us.<br />

“But we still need <strong>to</strong> solve the<br />

electricity shortages and high<br />

land prices,” he added.<br />

MIC d<strong>at</strong>a shows th<strong>at</strong><br />

most garment production<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>Myanmar</strong> – about 60pc<br />

– is cutt<strong>in</strong>g, manufactur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

and process<strong>in</strong>g work, which<br />

provides quick profits <strong>to</strong><br />

opera<strong>to</strong>rs but does not help the<br />

n<strong>at</strong>ion <strong>to</strong> build a manufactur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

base s<strong>in</strong>ce all raw m<strong>at</strong>erials are<br />

imported from abroad.<br />

UNDAUNTED by the former sanctions regime,<br />

<strong>Myanmar</strong>’s home-grown garment <strong>in</strong>dustry is<br />

thriv<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>in</strong>dustry experts say. They <strong>at</strong>tribute the<br />

success <strong>to</strong> the <strong>in</strong>dustry’s ability <strong>to</strong> c<strong>at</strong>er <strong>to</strong> local<br />

tastes.<br />

Over the past five years, local garment brands<br />

have been tak<strong>in</strong>g over more space because of their<br />

competitive price and good quality, some say. Unlike<br />

export-oriented bus<strong>in</strong>esses, they can employ and<br />

pay staff year-round without the need <strong>to</strong> wait for<br />

orders from overseas.<br />

“We can pay the same wages throughout the year,<br />

without night-work and overtime, because we are<br />

oper<strong>at</strong><strong>in</strong>g the fac<strong>to</strong>ry regularly. We know the tastes<br />

of <strong>Myanmar</strong> women and wh<strong>at</strong> k<strong>in</strong>d of designs they<br />

prefer. Normally we copy the designs from Thai<br />

garments,” said Daw Se<strong>in</strong> Lae Lae, owner of Dear<br />

Brand garment fac<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>in</strong> Shwe Pyi Thar <strong>to</strong>wnship.<br />

The fac<strong>to</strong>ry has more than 400 workers.<br />

“Garments produced for the local market cre<strong>at</strong>e<br />

much less stress for our workers than garments<br />

meant for export. Sometimes fac<strong>to</strong>ries produc<strong>in</strong>g<br />

for export have <strong>to</strong> pay penalties for not meet<strong>in</strong>g<br />

requirements. We can do our best for our own brand.<br />

If we don’t ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong> our quality, cus<strong>to</strong>mers will<br />

choose another brand,” she said.<br />

“We import the raw m<strong>at</strong>erials for our product from<br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>a, especially Shanghai. Power cuts here push<br />

up the production cost. But I have <strong>to</strong> look after my<br />

workers even when profits dip,” she said.<br />

She added th<strong>at</strong> it is rare for local fac<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>to</strong><br />

employ their own designers. Instead, they copy<br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>ese or Thai designs and modify them for local<br />

preferences.<br />

“We do face a problem of design copy from<br />

competi<strong>to</strong>rs, and from Ch<strong>in</strong>a,” said Daw Phyu Phyu<br />

Se<strong>in</strong>, owner of Spike garment fac<strong>to</strong>ry, which employs<br />

more than 1500 workers.<br />

“When our new design cre<strong>at</strong>es a lot of demand,<br />

copies come on <strong>to</strong> the market with<strong>in</strong> weeks. We<br />

have our own designer, who designs for the whole<br />

country. Some fac<strong>to</strong>ries produce garments only for<br />

one city, and some are oriented <strong>to</strong>wards other st<strong>at</strong>es<br />

and regions.<br />

“We <strong>in</strong>tend our designs <strong>to</strong> be suitable for women<br />

of all ages. We sell more than 20,000 products for a<br />

s<strong>in</strong>gle design, and every month we produce many<br />

different types. So far we are only produc<strong>in</strong>g for the<br />

domestic market, but we aim <strong>to</strong> extend overseas<br />

as well, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g <strong>to</strong> Malaysia and other countries,<br />

although we may have <strong>to</strong> adjust our design for the<br />

overseas markets,” she said.<br />

There are also many small- and medium-sized<br />

garment bus<strong>in</strong>esses; some do not even have fac<strong>to</strong>ries<br />

and outsource the work <strong>to</strong> larger producers but use<br />

their own designs. One such brand is Dancer, which<br />

targets the middle class with designs th<strong>at</strong> change<br />

every season, said its owner, Ma Nilar.<br />

“We have no fac<strong>to</strong>ry but produce our own designs<br />

and cut the f<strong>in</strong>ished goods. We work closely with<br />

other small cloth<strong>in</strong>g bus<strong>in</strong>esses,” she said.

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