Copertina AV6 europa ing.indd - Dolomiti Turismo

The refuge bears the name of Elberfeld, a suburb of the large city of
Wuppertal, in Nordrhein – Westphalia. The outbreak of World War One meant that
building was postponed until 1925. After two years’ work, on the 8th of August
1928, it was inaugurated. Today, the Elberfelder Hütte is a modern refuge, which
has obtained the environmental quality stamp of the German Alpine Club.
Day three
From the Elberfelder Hütte to the Adolf Noßberger Hütte
Time required: 4 hours
Maximum altitude: Klammerscharte, 2930m
Gradient in ascent: 600m
Difficulty: Red and Black (EE, Expert Hikers and EEA Expert Hikers
with Equipment)
Path: N.921
Maps: Alpenvereinskarte n.41, Schobergruppe, 1: 25,000
This stage is the highest point on the route, and also covers the most
difficult stretch from a mountaineering point of view. You have a choice of two
variants, neither of which is easy:
1- pass the ice-covered area of the Klammerscharte, 2930m, between the
Klammerköpfen and the Hornköpfen;
2- conquer to the north-east the Hornscharte, 2958m, extraordinarily steep,
between the Großer Hornkopf and the Kreuzkopf
Before choosing a route, it is imperative that you find out from the manager
of the Elberfelder Hütte about the condition of the tracks. Generally speaking,
the following rule of thumb is valid: at the beginning of the summer, until a layer
of “firn” (hardened spring snow) covers the Großnitzkees and this glaciers allows
you to climb up to the Klammerscharte, the first option is preferable. Later on in
the summer, as the snow disappears, the Hornscharte variant is better, because
the ice has melted, although it is steeper. Both variants are described below.
From the Elderfelder Hütte, follow the marked path through the
clearly marked edges of the glacier and the head of the Gößnitztal,
dominated by the seven peaks of the Klammerköpfe, separated from
each other by extremely steep snow-filled channels. You soon reach
a fork, from where you follow the track towards east, marked as
Klammerscharte.
„Großer Gradensee“ lake
at the bottom; the overhanging notch is the „Klammerscharte” saddle (2.930m)
Now the path winds its way steeply up and crosses the base of
the long, broken north-west crest of the Großer Hornkopf, 3251m,
and finally reaches the edge of the glacier in an area scattered with
morainic rocks.
The high mountain landscape inspires the profound respect of the
traveller. The Gößnitzkees sweeps steeply down towards the bottom
of the narrow passage of the Klammerscharte, bordered by dark rock
walls and snow-covered channels.
N.B.! Especially when the glacier becomes exposed, crevasses open up,
and a fall here could have fatal consequences. Climbers attempting this route
should therefore have some experience of glaciers, as well as appropriate equipment
(crampons, ice-axes, securing ropes; difficulty level EEA)
If you follow this advice, crossing of the Klammerscharte is sure to be an
unforgettable mountaineering experience. The climb up the glacier, which is very
steep, is accompanied by an increasingly striking landscape ; particularly impressive
is the nearby Roter Kopf, 3281m, and then the Großglockner, 3798m.
You finally reach, in the steepest part of the glacier, some recently
positioned metal safety ropes which, along the north edge of the
branch of the glacier which here almost becomes a couloir, lead
directly to the narrow rock window of the Klammerscharte, 2930m.
2,30 hours from the Ebelferder Hütte.
32 HIGH ALTITUDE GROßGLOCKNER-MONTE PERALBA EUROPA HIGH-ALTITUDE TRAIL 6 33