AMILITE GCS-12K - Cosmesi.it

AMILITE ® GCS-12K 

Facial Wash Formulation 

AJINOMOTO AminoScience Laboratories 

-1

Purpose 

to understand the benefits of 

GCS-12K for facial wash formulation 

to understand features of 

the guide formulations 


-2


Outline 

•Basic function 

•Benefits for facial wash formulation 

•Guide formulation 


-3






-4

The Basis of Acylamino Acid -1 

Glycine is the main constituent amino 

acid of human collagen. 

AsparticAcid 5% 

Serine 4% 

Arginine 5% 

GlutamicAcid 8% 

others 12% 

12% 

Glycine 

32% 

Hydroxvproline 

9% 

Alanine 

Proline 13% 

Constituent Amino Acids of human collagen 

[J.E.Eastoe, Treatise on collagen. Vol.1,p52] 


-5

The Basis of Acylamino Acid -2 

Chemical structure of acylamino acid 

AMILITE ® 

G series 


A series 

H 3 C-(CH 2 )nCOO- NH 


AMISOFT ® 


H 

C COO - M + 

H 

H 

C COO - M + 

CH 3 

H 

C COO - M + 

Glycine 

Alanine 

CH 2 CH 2 COO - M + 


Glutamic acid 

-6

Sensory Map of Acylamino Acid 

Character change depending on the kind of aminoacid 

 

AMISOFT ® 

Moisturising 

acidic 


A series 


G series 

alkali 

AMISOFT ® : Acyl glutamate 

G series : Acyl glycinate 

A series : Acyl alaninate 

Clarifying 

Soap 


-7






-8

Benefits of AMILITE ® GCS-12K 

for Facial Wash Formulation 

Produces good, creamy and resilient 

foam under the neutral pH conditions 

Imparts very pleasant fresh feel 

on the skin 

Composes various type of formulation 


-9

Performance of AMILITE ® GCS-12K 

Good foaming power 

Foam Volume (ml) 

350 

300 

250 

200 

150 

100 

50 

After 1min. 

After 5min. 

0 


GCS-12K 

Sodium 

Laurate 

•Mixer method 

•Temperature:35℃ 

•Concentration:1.0%A.I. pH:not adjusted 


Sodium 

Laureth 

Sulfate 

Sodium 

Cocoyl 

Isethionate 

Cocamidopropyl 

Betaine 

TS Data:0115-0840 

-10


Method of Wash and Recovery Test 

Procedure 

Wash with 750mL of surfactant 

solution 

P. Soap 10% active, pH 8.3 

Q. GCS 10% active, pH 8.3 

Rinsed with tap water (100ml) 

Repeated 6 times every 10 min. 

Swabbed with a tissue paper 

Initial 

30 minutes later, the skin 

capacitance was measured 

Test 

measure 

wash wash wash measure measure measure 


-11


Result of Wash and Recovery Test 

AMILITE ® GCS does not cause dry skin after heavy wash 

50 

45 

P=0.0006 P=0.0007 P=0.001 

* 

* * 

Skin capacitance / - 

40 

35 

30 

25 

20 

Initial 30 45 60 

Time (min.) 

* 

Q GCS 

P Soap 

p: probability by the T-TEST 

that shows the means of two 

groups are statistically equal. 


TS Data:0115-0391 

-12


Phase Changes around pH7 

Temperature[℃] 

50 

40 

30 

20 

10 

deposition 

5 wt% (A.I.) 

dissolution 

50 

40 

30 

20 

10 

deposition 

dissolution 

pH not 

controlled 

0 

0 

-10 

5 6 7 8 9 

pH 

-10 

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 

Concentration [wt%] 

TSData:0115-0860 


-13

Benefits of AMILITE ® GCS-12K 

for Facial Wash Formulation 

Produces good, creamy and resilient foam 

under the neutral pH conditions 

Imparts a very pleasant fresh feel on the skin 

Composes various type of formulation 

Suitable for 

facial wash formulation 


-14






-15

Trend of Formulation Type 

Needs and Type of Formulation Expand 

Bar soap 

Pump foamer 

Creamy 

Facial 

cleanser 

Clear gel 

Liquid 

powder 

Do you know how to use cream-type Facial cleanser?? 


-16

How to Use Cream-Type Facial Wash 

1 

2 

3 

Take cream 

Add water 

Make foam 

4 

5 

Wash face 


Rinse off 

-17

What is Cream-Type Facial Wash ? 

 

 

Mixture of Solid (Crystal) and Liquid 

High Crystallinity is Required 


-18

Guide Formulation 

Formulation 

No 

FC-109H 

Crystallization 

NDT-11S NCF-279 

Thickening 

REL-91 SKPEG-112 

Foam Volume 

Good 

Good 

Excellent 

Good 

Excellent 

AMILITE 

(Active) 

16.5 

11.1 

10.0 

9.6 

8.8 

Total surfactant 

(Active.) 

pH 

Characteristic 

Features 

18.9 

13.9 

6.9 

6.4 

(1% 

6.9 

(1%) 

) 

Luxurous, attractive 

appearance 

Excellent foam 


20.4 

16.0 

6.3 

21.9 

5.7 

(1%) 

Cost performance 

Easy to preparation 

-19


Facial Wash ~Crystallization Type 

– FC-109H 

Easy preparation without the tough dissolution 

process at high temperature 

Good stability 

– NDT-11S 

Excellent stability and good foam 

Pleasant moisturizing feel due to the high amount of 

emollient oil 

– NCF-279 

Excellent balance of foamability, skinfeel and stability 

Process is reasonably simple 

Good cost performance 


-20

Facial Wash 

TS Formulation No.FC-109H 

Easy preparation without tough dissolution process 

Good stability and foamability 

AMILITE GCS-12K 

WATER 

GLYCERIN 

SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE (30%) 

POLYQUATERNIUM-39 (10%) 

DISODIUM EDTA 

CITRIC ACID 

PRESERVATIVE 

HYDROXYPROPYL METYLCELLULOSE 

pH(1%):6.9 Stability :0, 25, 50℃ 

55.00 

balance 

28.00 

8.00 

1.00 

0.05 

1.20 

q.s. 

0.04 

100.00 

Point: Glycerin as poor solvent, 

Combined use of surfactants 

Cleansing surfactant 

Solvent, viscosity modifier 

Co-surfactant 

Foam booster 

Sequestrant 

pH modifier 

Viscosity modifier 

Stable for 1 month 


-21

Facial Wash 

TS Formulation No.NDT-11S 

Good stability and good foam 

Pleasant moisturizing feel due to emollient oil. 

WATER 

AMILITE GCS-12K(30%) 

SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE(30%) 

LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE(30%) 

GLYCERIN 

PRESERVATIVE 

PETROLATUM 

LAURIC ACID 

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 


Balance 

37.1 

16.6 

14.3 

7.0 

q.s. 

12.0 

5.0 

5.0 

1.5 

100.0 


Co-surfactant 

Co-surfactant 

Moisturizer 

Emollient 

pH (1%):6.9 Stability :-5, 0, 25, 40, 45 o C, Cycle, for 1 

month 

Foam booster 

Thickening polymer 


Point: combined use of surfactants for stability 

and foamability, 

-22

Facial Wash 

TS Formulation No.NCF-279 

Good balance of foamability, skin feel and stability 

Process is simple ●Good cost performance 

AMILITE GCS-12K (30%) 

LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE (30%) 

SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE (30%) 

GLYCERYL CAPRATE 

GLYCERIN 

PEG-14M (5%aq.) 

PRESERVATIVE 

WATER 

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 

CITRIC ACID (20%aq.) 


month 


33.0 

10.0 

3.0 

1.1 

25.0 

10.0 

q.s. 

Balance 

2.5 

4.7 

100.0 


Co-surfactant 

Co-surfactant 

Foam booster 

Solvent, viscosity modifier 



pH modifier 

Point: combined use of surfactants for stability 

and foamability,and poor solvent 

-23

Crystallization Process of Facial Wash Cream 

1. > crystallizing point 

2. At crystallizing point 

cool 

Surfactant solution 

3. At crystallizing point 

Crystals deposit 

Saturated surfactant solution 

4. < crystallizing point 

cool 

cool 

Crystals increase 



Crystal saturates 


-24

Strategy of Preparing 

Crystallization Type Facial Wash 

Theory 

Surfactant crystal makes cream stable. 

Strategy 

To make stable crystal by solubility control of surfactant 

Crystal 


Use polyol (as poor solvent) 

Surfactant / water / polyol ratio 

Tuning of pH value 

Crystallization type 

Key Point! 


-25

Effect of pH and Polyol on 

Foambility and Crytallization 

High 

1 

Foam Volume 

Poor 

3 GOOD 

Low 

Crystallinity 

2 

Good 

Rich 

Polyol 

Low 

Acidic 

pH 

Alkaline 


-26

Understanding Cream Type Facial Wash 

Effect of pH on Foamability and Appearance 

> 

A M ILIT E ® G C S -12K 65.0 65.0 65.0 65.0 65.0 

C itric acid 0.0 0.4 0.7 1.0 2.0 

G lycerin 30.0 30.0 30.0 30.0 30.0 

W ater 5.0 4.6 4.3 4.0 3.0 

pH (1%) 8.3 7.2 6.8 6.5 6.0 

C rystallizing tem p. - 35℃ 41℃ 50℃ 58℃ 

A ppearance 

Liquid 

S m ooth C ream 

H ard 

Foam properties 

R ough 

B ouncy 

P oor volum e 


Excellent foam, 

Suitable for facial wash 

TS Data:0115-0870 

-27


Formulation 

No 

FC-109H 

Crystallization 

NDT-11S NCF-279 

Thickening 

REL-91 SKPEG-112 

Foam Volume 

Good 

Good 

Excellent 

Good 

Excellent 

AMILITE 

(Active) 

16.5 

11.1 

10.0 

9.6 

8.8 

Total surfactant 

(Active.) 

pH 

Characteristic 

18.9 

13.9 

6.9 

6.4 

(1% 

6.9 

(1%) 

) 

Luxurous, attractive 

appearance 

Excellent foam 


20.4 

16.0 

6.3 

21.9 

5.7 

(1%) 

Cost performance 

Easy to preparation 

-28


Facial Wash ~Thickening Type 

– TS formulation No.REL-91 

Low active surfactant concentration. 

Cold process is possible. 

– TS formulation No.SKPEG-112 

 

Creamy foam 

SLES/LAPB type 

Vacuum system is NOT needed. 


-29

Facial Wash 

TS Formulation No.REL-91 

Low active surfactant concentration. 

Cold process is possible. 

AMILITE GCS-12K (30%) 

AMIHOPE LL 

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 

PRESERVATIVE 

GLYCERIN 

POLYQUATERNIUM-39 

PEG-14M (5%aq.) 

COCO-BETAINE (30%) 

AJIDEW NL-50 

SODIUM CHLORIDE (10%aq.) 

ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 

CROSSPOLYMER (4.5%aq.) 


month 


32.0 

0.3 

0.7 

q.s. 

5.0 

0.5 

4.0 

21.4 

1.5 

5.0 

15.5 

100.0 


Sensory improver 

Opacifier 

Moisturizer 

Moisturizer 


Co-surfactant 




Point: combined use of surfactants and NL-50 

Thickening polymer, opacifier 

-30

Facial Wash 

TS Formulation No.SKPEG-112 

Creamy foam 

Vacuum system is NOT needed. 

AMILITE GCS-12K(30%) 

SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE(27%) 

LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE(30%) 

DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE(32%) 

BUTYLENE GLYCOL 

WATER 

PRESERVATIVE 

POLYQUATERNIUM-7(10%) 

ALUMINUM MAGNESIUM SILICATE 

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 

CITRIC ACID (20%aq.) 

pH (1%):5.7 Stability :-5, 25, 50℃, Cycle Stable for 1 

month 


29.20 

23.00 

21.00 

2.00 

0.20 

balance 

q.s. 

1.00 

1.00 

0.20 

3.00 

100.00 

Point: combined use of surfactants 

Thickening agent, opacifier 



Co-surfactant 

Co-surfactant 

Solubilizer 

Foam improver 


Opacifier 

pH modifier 

-31

Preparation Process of Thickening Type 

1 

2 

•Filler 

•Opacifier 

•Pearlizer 

Filler , Opacifier 



3 

•Polymer 

•Salt 

•pH modifier 

Thickening polymer/ 

Surfactant aggregate 


-32

Strategy of Preparing 

Thickening Type Facial Wash 

Theory 

Polymer and surfactant aggregates make cream stable. 

Strategy 

Combined using of high soluble surfactants, salt, 

pH modifier, polymer, and other thickening agent. 

NOT to make crystal of surfactant. 

Solution 

To use high soluble surfactant, SLES, CAPB 

Add salt such as NaCl, MgCl2, PCA-Na 

Modify pH value 

To use polymer for stabilizing 


-33


Summary 

Suitable for the cream-type facial wash. 

Produces good, creamy and resilient foam 

under the neutral conditions 

Imparts a pleasant fresh feel on the skin 

Various-type facial wash with good stability can 

be prepared with AMILITE ® GCS-12K 


-34

Thank you 


-35


-36

AMILITE GCS-12K - Cosmesi.it

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?