twrama 1841_august_2.. - AMA WA

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WINE Hail to THE EMPEROR Then and now: At 82, Karl Stockhausen continues his love affair with fine wine. (Above right) A younger Karl working the wine at Lindemans. Pictures: Briar Ridge Vineyard. few weeks ago, while reading James Halliday’s column A in the Weekend Australian Magazine, a sentence leapt off the page that led to a frenzied search of the cellar. The relevant part of the sentence was “… a bottle of 1965 Lindemans Hunter River Burgundy (one of the greatest wines of the 20th century)”. Having sampled as a teen, some of the Hunter River Burgundies from the glasses of family members who adored these wines, they left an indelible impression and a determination to have some bottles of my own. That was achieved while a university student using some carefully saved dollars, with advice from people who knew, at the then centre of the wine universe, Liberty Liquors, that they should be carefully cellared. This was done and the few that remained were woken by frenzied hands looking for the fabled 1965 vintage. Sadly, to no avail, there were none. Wishful thinking, at best. Certainly the vintages rudely awakened are nice drops, but definitely not the 1965 Bin 3110. Whose guiding hand was behind the making of this giant, some would say leviathan, of a wine? Karl Stockhausen. Not the composer, although in a way, he is a composer of sorts – in the winemaking sense of the word. Karl Stockhausen was born in Germany, but was unfortunate enough to have his school years overshadowed by a world war. His family migrated to Australia in 1955 and was resettled close to the Hunter Valley vineyards. He would handsomely reward Australia and the Hunter wine industry in particular for offering his family a new beginning. From 1959 to 1979, Stockhausen produced what are generally regarded as amongst the finest Australian wines – all Hunter vintages. The 1965 Lindemans Hunter River Burgundy Bin 3110 is even now, spoken of in reverential tones, as one of Australia’s all-time great wines. This 82-year-old winemaking giant has chalked up 50 vintages and is still active in the industry, as consultant to the Briar Ridge Vineyard in the Hunter Valley, a tasting panellist and show judging. Halliday had this to say in an article he wrote in November 1994 titled Lindemans Hunter River Shiraz (Burgundy) 1959 – 1991: “Dark, deep red with some faint tawny characters on the rim. The palate is fragrant, powerful and extremely complex, like a bigger version of the 1959 Bin 1590, featuring an array of aromas through earth to berry, but all sweet. The palate is incredibly complex and multifaceted, with tannins running throughout hugely concentrated and powerful briary chocolate fruit. Properly corked, it will live for another 30 to 40 years. 14.5 per cent alcohol. Prime of its life; gloriously mature.” Another wine commentator was told by Stockhausen that the 1965 vintage was a freak, in that it did not rain. Winemakers in the Hunter tend to keep an eye out for the threat of a downpour. There was also the fact that Lindemans had filled all its concrete fermenters with white wines, requiring the Shiraz to wait until February. The result was the fruit in the Ben Ean vineyard began to shrivel, resulting in the 14.5 per cent alcohol level, though Stockhausen thought it was closer to 15 per cent plus. Little wonder it was 17 years before the vintage was actually released. That would have set off financial alarm bells for the Fosters bean counters who currently own the Lindemans brand. It is arguable that the vintage would not have survived in the brand’s current guise. Thank heaven that all the ducks lined up as the saying goes – a freak of a vintage, a winemaking legend with a great winemaking team, and a producer prepared to give the vintage the time it needed and release it when it was ready. If there is any disappointment, and there is, there are no 1965 Hunter River Burgundies in my cellar. August MEDICUS 59
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