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twrama 1841_august_2.. - AMA WA

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PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

Notice there are no are no ‘bars’ running vertically at either the<br />

left or right hand side of the histogram in Fig. 4 – something you<br />

wish to avoid in the majority of your photos.<br />

‘Bars’ climbing vertically up the left hand side of the histogram<br />

(like in Fig. 5) tells you that you have underexposed the image<br />

and you did not capture details in the dark shadow areas. ‘Bars’<br />

climbing vertically up the right hand side of the histogram (like<br />

in Fig. 6) shows you have overexposed the image and did not<br />

captured details in the bright areas.<br />

you are wasting fully half of the available encoding ability of your<br />

camera. The simple lesson is to bias your exposures so that the<br />

histogram is snugged up to the right hand side, but not to the<br />

point where you have some of the ‘bars’ climbing vertically up. If<br />

the latter happens you have blown the highlights in your images<br />

and these can never be ‘recaptured’. Using the ‘flashing alert’ or<br />

‘blinking’ function on your camera will help avoid this happening.<br />

To move the histogram to the right, simply let in more light<br />

to the sensor, by opening the aperture further, or increasing<br />

the time the aperture is open or increasing the ISO level.<br />

Fig. 8 shows a ‘centred’ histogram and the same one pushed<br />

to the right but not allowing it to climb vertically up the right<br />

hand side.<br />

Fig. 5: Histogram of an underexposed<br />

image.<br />

Fig. 6: Histogram of an overexposed<br />

image.<br />

If your histogram has verticals ‘bars’ running up both the left<br />

and right sides, it means you has lost, or ‘clipped’ details in both the<br />

shadows and highlights. This happens when the range of light levels<br />

in the scene, from the darkest to the brightest, is more than the sensor<br />

in your camera can cope with. There will be too much contrast in<br />

what you are trying to photograph, to capture in one shot.<br />

Fig 8: Histogram showing the principle of ‘shooting to the right’.<br />

Use the histogram to help you shoot to the right<br />

Fig. 7 shows a histogram box without the ‘bars’ and somewhat<br />

arbitrarily divided into five equal zones or tones. Intuitively you<br />

would think your camera’s sensor would be capable of capturing<br />

and recording the same amount of digital data (or tones) from<br />

each zone in any scene.<br />

Fig. 7: Histogram divided into five zones.<br />

Alas, this is not the way it works. The way it really works is<br />

that the ‘Very Light’ zone captures fully half or 50 per cent of the<br />

digital data (tones) available in whatever you are photographing.<br />

The next ‘Light’ zone captures 50 per cent of what the ‘Very<br />

Light’ zone has already captured. The ‘Medium’ zone captures 50<br />

per cent of what the ‘Light’ zone has already captured, and so on<br />

as we move towards the last ‘Very Dark’ zone. This means the first<br />

three zones alone capture 87.5 per cent of the digital data (tones)<br />

you can possibly capture in any photograph. The 85 per cent is<br />

made up of 50 per cent (‘very light’ zone), plus 50 per cent of 50<br />

per cent or 25 per cent (‘light’ zone), plus 50 per cent of 25 per<br />

cent or 1<strong>2.</strong>5 per cent (‘medium’ zone).<br />

The message is clear. If you are not using the right-hand side of<br />

the histogram for capturing and recording much of your images,<br />

Fig. 9: Actual histogram straight from camera.<br />

Fig. 9 shows the actual histogram for the Water Art photo<br />

(pictured). This histogram is ‘straight from camera’ and is<br />

the third image I took of the water breaking on the rock. By<br />

interpreting the histograms for the two earlier shots, I increased<br />

the exposure until I maximised the digital data gathered, without<br />

blowing out the highlights. I have given myself the best chance to<br />

work this image further in Lightroom or Photoshop, if I choose to<br />

do so.<br />

Almost all prosumer cameras and all professional cameras<br />

allow you to view the histogram on the camera’s LCD so<br />

that you can adjust the exposure and take the shot again, if<br />

necessary.<br />

Visit your camera’s manual to switch this function on so that<br />

it automatically appears when you look at the LCD after taking<br />

a shot. Soon you will not be using the LCD only for deleting<br />

the poor and out-of-focus images. Concentrating on the<br />

histogram will ensure you have much fewer images to delete.<br />

August MEDICUS 61

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