twrama 1841_august_2.. - AMA WA

WINE
Hail to THE EMPEROR
Then and now: At 82, Karl Stockhausen continues his love affair with fine wine.
(Above right) A younger Karl working the wine at Lindemans. Pictures: Briar Ridge Vineyard.
few weeks ago, while reading James Halliday’s column
A in the Weekend Australian Magazine, a sentence leapt
off the page that led to a frenzied search of the cellar.
The relevant part of the sentence was “… a bottle of 1965
Lindemans Hunter River Burgundy (one of the greatest
wines of the 20th century)”.
Having sampled as a teen, some of the Hunter River
Burgundies from the glasses of family members who
adored these wines, they left an indelible impression and a
determination to have some bottles of my own.
That was achieved while a university student using some
carefully saved dollars, with advice from people who knew,
at the then centre of the wine universe, Liberty Liquors, that
they should be carefully cellared. This was done and the few
that remained were woken by frenzied hands looking for the
fabled 1965 vintage. Sadly, to no avail, there were none. Wishful
thinking, at best. Certainly the vintages rudely awakened are
nice drops, but definitely not the 1965 Bin 3110.
Whose guiding hand was behind the making of this giant,
some would say leviathan, of a wine? Karl Stockhausen. Not the
composer, although in a way, he is a composer of sorts – in the
winemaking sense of the word.
Karl Stockhausen was born in Germany, but was unfortunate
enough to have his school years overshadowed by a world war.
His family migrated to Australia in 1955 and was resettled
close to the Hunter Valley vineyards. He would handsomely
reward Australia and the Hunter wine industry in particular for
offering his family a new beginning.
From 1959 to 1979, Stockhausen produced what are generally
regarded as amongst the finest Australian wines – all Hunter
vintages. The 1965 Lindemans Hunter River Burgundy Bin
3110 is even now, spoken of in reverential tones, as one of
Australia’s all-time great wines.
This 82-year-old winemaking giant has chalked up 50
vintages and is still active in the industry, as consultant to the
Briar Ridge Vineyard in the Hunter Valley, a tasting panellist
and show judging.
Halliday had this to say in an article he wrote in November
1994 titled Lindemans Hunter River Shiraz (Burgundy) 1959 –
1991: “Dark, deep red with some faint tawny characters on the
rim. The palate is fragrant, powerful and extremely complex,
like a bigger version of the 1959 Bin 1590, featuring an array
of aromas through earth to berry, but all sweet. The palate is
incredibly complex and multifaceted, with tannins running
throughout hugely concentrated and powerful briary chocolate
fruit. Properly corked, it will live for another 30 to 40 years. 14.5
per cent alcohol. Prime of its life; gloriously mature.”
Another wine commentator was told by Stockhausen that the
1965 vintage was a freak, in that it did not rain. Winemakers in
the Hunter tend to keep an eye out for the threat of a downpour.
There was also the fact that Lindemans had filled all its concrete
fermenters with white wines, requiring the Shiraz to wait until
February. The result was the fruit in the Ben Ean vineyard
began to shrivel, resulting in the 14.5 per cent alcohol level,
though Stockhausen thought it was closer to 15 per cent plus.
Little wonder it was 17 years before the vintage was actually
released. That would have set off financial alarm bells for the
Fosters bean counters who currently own the Lindemans brand.
It is arguable that the vintage would not have survived in the
brand’s current guise.
Thank heaven that all the ducks lined up as the saying
goes – a freak of a vintage, a winemaking legend with a great
winemaking team, and a producer prepared to give the vintage
the time it needed and release it when it was ready. If there is
any disappointment, and there is, there are no 1965 Hunter
River Burgundies in my cellar.
August MEDICUS 59