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Roads of Arabia

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25 Arabie US p432-441_BAT.qxd 23/06/10 21:49 Page 436<br />

ROADS OF ARABIA<br />

The Discovery <strong>of</strong> al-Rabadha, a City in the Early Days <strong>of</strong> Islam<br />

dates to the Qarmatians who devastated and ransacked the town, forcing its population to<br />

flee. Thus ended the story, after three centuries <strong>of</strong> prosperity, <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the most famous<br />

Muslim cities on the pilgrimage road. The geographer al-Muqaddasi, years after its destruction,<br />

was appalled to discover there nothing but “brackish water and a place <strong>of</strong> desolation”.<br />

Then the pilgrimage road deviated from al-Rabadha. Historians and geographers no<br />

longer mentioned it, as if leaving the task to archaeologists to discover its secrets, traces <strong>of</strong><br />

its constructions and testimonies <strong>of</strong> its urbanization. This is why for centuries and up to<br />

very recently al-Rabadha was known (only by name) and ignored.<br />

The traveller and geographer Muhammad ibn ‘Abdallah ibn Bulayhid (d. 1975) was the<br />

first who sought to draw attention to it and circumscribe its location, but in vain. This failure<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>oundly discouraged scholars. It was only when the author <strong>of</strong> this essay undertook<br />

his doctoral thesis on the vestiges <strong>of</strong> Darb Zubayda that interest in the geographic situation<br />

<strong>of</strong> al-Rabadha was revived. Through examination <strong>of</strong> the historical, geographic and literary<br />

sources related to this route, valuable information was obtained, that proved very helpful on<br />

the first visit to the site, during which the trajectories and cross roads were followed over a<br />

distance <strong>of</strong> more than 1,400 kilometres. This inspection took from May 14 to June 11, 1973.<br />

The data assembled concurred with that <strong>of</strong> the shaykh Hamad al-Jasir who published<br />

an essay in the review al-‘Arab titled: “Al-Rabadha: the location <strong>of</strong> the site”. A certain number<br />

<strong>of</strong> Saudi lexicologists also published useful information on the city in the wake <strong>of</strong><br />

Shaykh al-Jasir, Muhammad ibn Nasir al-‘Abudi, Sa‘d ibn Junaydil and ‘Atiq al-Biladi.<br />

Al-Jasir thus concluded: “In my opinion the site <strong>of</strong> al-Rabadha [he meant the city and not<br />

the protected zone] was located between the Abu Salim basin and the al-Nafazi well; I do<br />

not exclude the fact that this well may be one <strong>of</strong> the many al-Rabadha wells; it could be the<br />

one known in the past under the name Abu Dhar al-Ghifari well and which in the course<br />

<strong>of</strong> time was distorted”. A scientific survey was performed on a section <strong>of</strong> the Darb Zubayda.<br />

It includes archaeological sites in the perimeter where the Abu Salim basin is situated,<br />

appearing under this name on the geographic maps <strong>of</strong> the kingdom <strong>of</strong> Saudi <strong>Arabia</strong>; similarly<br />

the natural sites and the extent <strong>of</strong> the plant covering were circumscribed. This is why<br />

the author <strong>of</strong> this essay was convinced that al-Rabadha was situated in the area containing<br />

the basin and the nearby existing archaeological vestiges.<br />

The investigation clearly revealed that it was east <strong>of</strong> Medina, at almost 200 kilometres,<br />

at the foot <strong>of</strong> the western mountains <strong>of</strong> Hijaz.<br />

Preliminary prospecting <strong>of</strong> the site allowed the team to prepare the excavation <strong>of</strong> this<br />

city while students <strong>of</strong> the archaeology and museology department were trained under the<br />

guidance <strong>of</strong> specialists.<br />

The first excavation campaign took place in May 1979.<br />

These were the grounds for selecting the localization <strong>of</strong> the site <strong>of</strong> al-Rabadha to start<br />

the excavation:<br />

1. The connection <strong>of</strong> the place with the rise <strong>of</strong> Islam and the Prophet’s Companions.<br />

2. The pastoral character <strong>of</strong> the surrounding region and its bonds with the nascent<br />

Islamic state.<br />

3. The gradual development <strong>of</strong> al-Rabadha, which began in the early days <strong>of</strong> Islam and<br />

continued under the Umayyad dynasty until the first Abbasid period, followed by its<br />

destruction and then its disappearance.<br />

4. The historical and geographic sources led to the conclusion that the archaeological<br />

site could <strong>of</strong>fer us useful information about the Islamic civilization; on the one hand, the urban<br />

layout and the architectural piles including houses, numerous industries such as pottery,<br />

ceramic, stone and glass items, and on the other hand, metal utensils, jewellery, inscriptions,<br />

coins and other items produced locally or conveyed from the close or distant capitals<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Islamic Empire.<br />

5. We also hoped that the results <strong>of</strong> the archaeological discoveries would provide us<br />

with coherent pro<strong>of</strong> which might correct the numerous data on early Islamic architecture as<br />

well as on the many forms <strong>of</strong> craftsmanship or ancient scripts, which the rapid changes<br />

affecting the first Islamic capitals such as Bassora, Kufa, Baghdad and Samarra or even al-<br />

Hira (which belonged to the Pre-Islamic period) did not permit us to establish.<br />

6. The archaeological excavations on Islamic sites in Iraq and Syria and resulting interpretations<br />

confronted us with many issues concerning the sources <strong>of</strong> knowledge and characteristics<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Islamic civilization.<br />

Fortunately the results <strong>of</strong> the excavations at al-Rabadha were conclusive. In the twentyfive<br />

campaigns between 1979 and 2003 we were able to gather very significant information<br />

about the urbanism <strong>of</strong> the city, architectural elements, items in ceramic, glass, stone and<br />

metal, coins, scripts, jewellery and decorative elements.<br />

The population <strong>of</strong> the city appears to have settled in a rectangular area going from east<br />

to west. There are no visible ruins <strong>of</strong> the city, save several archaeological mounds <strong>of</strong> which<br />

the layout is not clearly defined. One <strong>of</strong> the site’s most visible vestiges is one <strong>of</strong> the Darb<br />

Zubayda tanks: a circular tank, 65 metres in diameter, 4.70 metres deep, equipped with<br />

a rectangular sedimentation basin measuring 55 x 17 metres and 3.15 metres deep. We<br />

were also able to delimit the cemetery <strong>of</strong> the old city in the south-west part. Its extension<br />

indicates that the city was quite vast and densely populated. During the first campaign the<br />

excavation brought to light three sites which we named A, B and C, to which we added<br />

two others, D and E. Last, we identified a rather large archaeological mound which we<br />

named “401”. During the excavation we unearthed several architectural works comprising<br />

mosques, houses, palaces surrounded by enclosures and thick walls consolidated by circular<br />

Hélène David, 2010<br />

General layout <strong>of</strong> the site<br />

436<br />

437

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