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ASK BOB<br />
GENERAL QUESTIONS RELATED TO RADIO<br />
Bob Grove, W8JHD<br />
bobgrove@monitoringtimes.com<br />
Q. I’m going to put up an inverted<br />
V wire antenna. I have looked for<br />
stand-off insulators for the 450<br />
ladder line which will run down the<br />
telescoping mast support but have<br />
not been able to find any on the<br />
market. Do you know of any source<br />
for commercially made insulators<br />
of that sort? How far from the mast<br />
does the open-feeder ladder line<br />
have to be kept? (Gary Britten,<br />
W4GNB, Wilmore, KY)<br />
A. I haven’t seen any since most folks are now<br />
using coax cable leading up to resonant antennas,<br />
and HF dipoles are usually end supported<br />
and center fed so that a standoff isn’t necessary.<br />
So far as the inverted V, the line usually tapers<br />
from the feed point down to the shack; it isn’t<br />
fastened to the center mast.<br />
Remember those TV standoff insulators that<br />
ran down the mast for 300 ohm ribbon line? I<br />
wonder if a few of those would work, simply running<br />
the ladder-line spacers through their round<br />
ends. You’d probably have to cement or clamp<br />
the intersection of the spreader insulator w<strong>here</strong><br />
it runs through the round end of the standoff;<br />
otherwise, during windy weather, the ladder line<br />
would keep slipping back and forth, allowing the<br />
open wire to touch the metal and be grounded or<br />
at least electrically unbalanced.<br />
The spacing of open line from large metal<br />
surfaces is good at just a few inches, not even a<br />
foot. I’d go with 4 inches minimum.<br />
Q. My antenna analyzer shows a<br />
bad impedance match (high SWR)<br />
between my horizontal HF loop<br />
antenna and my rig. I calculated<br />
the loop to be 254 feet long at 3.9<br />
MHz using insulated wire. What<br />
could be wrong? (Rick - KF5LSN)<br />
A. Your original calculation was very close.<br />
Dividing 1005 by the lowest frequency in megahertz<br />
gives the correct circumference in feet.<br />
Since you are using insulated wire, you should<br />
reduce the circumference by 4%. This would be<br />
247 feet.<br />
The feedpoint impedance of such a loop<br />
(or a dipole) is about 100 ohms, a 2:1 SWR if<br />
you’re using coax feed. In some cases, changing<br />
the length of the transmission line is as important<br />
as the correct antenna length.<br />
It’s a good idea to use open-wire feeders<br />
(twin lead or ladder line) for antennas with a<br />
high or variable feedpoint impedance, especially<br />
multiband antennas. Because of the separation<br />
of the conductors and the amount of insulation<br />
between them, t<strong>here</strong>’s almost no loss whatsoever<br />
under high SWR. The tuner adjusts the impedance<br />
mismatch between the antenna system and<br />
the rig.<br />
Here’s a good article on HF loops: www.<br />
k5rcd.org/hor%20loop%20instruct.htm<br />
Q. If the PAR End Fedz antenna<br />
is properly tuned, can it be used<br />
for transmitting in the 10-40m<br />
bands? I autotuned it the other<br />
night on 7.200 MHz and came<br />
up with a respectable SWR. (Matt,<br />
email)<br />
A. Autotuners work well within certain SWR<br />
limits, but if it’s excessive, then you will need a<br />
manually tuned transmatch. Still, keep in mind<br />
that the mismatch is still present between the<br />
coax and the antenna feedpoint; the properly<br />
adjusted match is made only at the transmitter/<br />
tuner junction.<br />
Since the PAR End Fedz is designed for<br />
receiving only, t<strong>here</strong> may be some components<br />
within the insulated housing that would be<br />
vulnerable to excessive impedance mismatch as<br />
well as proper RF current and thus be damaged<br />
by the heat.<br />
You should check with the manufacturer<br />
for their recommendations regarding maximum<br />
RF power and SWR vulnerability. You are<br />
probably all right at low power (10-20 watts),<br />
but check regularly to see if you can feel heat<br />
being generated in the housing.<br />
Q. I was wondering about the<br />
differences between ceramic<br />
and monolithic capacitors. Do<br />
they function differently? Are certain<br />
circuits or functions better<br />
suited for one or the other? (Van<br />
Wilshire, email)<br />
A. Ceramic merely refers to the insulating<br />
material as compared to paper, mica, polyester,<br />
resin, or Mylar for example. Monolithic simply<br />
means that several layers of the insulation are<br />
alternately interleaved with layers of the metal.<br />
Then the whole block is compressed into a<br />
monolith (single chunk) as compared to being<br />
rolled into a cylinder (tubular).<br />
Yes, different styles work better at different<br />
frequencies. An excellent illustration of these<br />
differences and their applications can be found<br />
at www.gqrp.com/na5n.pdf.<br />
Q. My new digital scanner is not<br />
picking up signals as well as my<br />
old analog scanner. What sort of<br />
antenna should I put up? (Gregg<br />
Fear, email)<br />
A. Can you hear analog signals as well on your<br />
new scanner as you did with the old scanner? In<br />
a side-by-side comparison t<strong>here</strong> should be no<br />
difference in reception since you are listening<br />
to the same signals. If t<strong>here</strong> is, then I’d suspect<br />
the scanner.<br />
Are you having to use a different adapter on<br />
your antenna cable than you were before? Make<br />
sure it’s not loose and is making a good contact<br />
with the scanner receptacle.<br />
Digital signals must be stronger than analog<br />
to be heard properly. As with TV, analog signals<br />
can tolerate some static and still be seen, but<br />
digital needs all the pulses and no noise to get a<br />
TV picture and sound.<br />
For scanner coax, don’t use RG-58/U in<br />
long runs; it’s very lossy at VHF and especially<br />
UHF. Use RG-6/U outdoor TV coax or, in the<br />
worst cases, more expensive low-loss cables like<br />
RG-8/U, Belden 9913, or LMR400.<br />
The lowest cost, high performance scanner<br />
antennas include the Grove Scanner Beam III<br />
(which is directional) and the ScanTenna (omnidirectional).<br />
You can see their specifications<br />
at www.grove-ent.com/scannerbeam3.html<br />
and www.grove-ent.com/ANT7.html.<br />
Q. My new floor lamp takes standard<br />
light bulbs, 60 watts maximum.<br />
But the instructions say not<br />
to use CFLs exceeding 13 watts!<br />
CFLs are known for operating<br />
much cooler than incandescent<br />
and I’d like to use some bright 30<br />
watt CFL’s. (Judy May, W1ORO,<br />
Union, Kentucky)<br />
A. T<strong>here</strong>’s nothing wrong with putting in those<br />
30 watt CFLs; they will operate cooler than the<br />
60 watt incandescents, and provide brighter light<br />
as well!<br />
(Note: Judy let us know that she went ahead<br />
and tried the 30 watt CFL, and then a 42 watt<br />
CFL, and both stayed cooler than the 60 watt<br />
incandescent!)<br />
Questions or tips sent to Ask Bob, c/o MT are<br />
printed in this column as space permits. Mail<br />
your questions along with a self-addressed<br />
stamped envelope in care of MT, or e-mail<br />
to bobgrove@monitoringtimes.com. (Please<br />
include your name and address.)<br />
August 2012 MONITORING TIMES 23