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ASK BOB<br />

GENERAL QUESTIONS RELATED TO RADIO<br />

Bob Grove, W8JHD<br />

bobgrove@monitoringtimes.com<br />

Q. I’m going to put up an inverted<br />

V wire antenna. I have looked for<br />

stand-off insulators for the 450<br />

ladder line which will run down the<br />

telescoping mast support but have<br />

not been able to find any on the<br />

market. Do you know of any source<br />

for commercially made insulators<br />

of that sort? How far from the mast<br />

does the open-feeder ladder line<br />

have to be kept? (Gary Britten,<br />

W4GNB, Wilmore, KY)<br />

A. I haven’t seen any since most folks are now<br />

using coax cable leading up to resonant antennas,<br />

and HF dipoles are usually end supported<br />

and center fed so that a standoff isn’t necessary.<br />

So far as the inverted V, the line usually tapers<br />

from the feed point down to the shack; it isn’t<br />

fastened to the center mast.<br />

Remember those TV standoff insulators that<br />

ran down the mast for 300 ohm ribbon line? I<br />

wonder if a few of those would work, simply running<br />

the ladder-line spacers through their round<br />

ends. You’d probably have to cement or clamp<br />

the intersection of the spreader insulator w<strong>here</strong><br />

it runs through the round end of the standoff;<br />

otherwise, during windy weather, the ladder line<br />

would keep slipping back and forth, allowing the<br />

open wire to touch the metal and be grounded or<br />

at least electrically unbalanced.<br />

The spacing of open line from large metal<br />

surfaces is good at just a few inches, not even a<br />

foot. I’d go with 4 inches minimum.<br />

Q. My antenna analyzer shows a<br />

bad impedance match (high SWR)<br />

between my horizontal HF loop<br />

antenna and my rig. I calculated<br />

the loop to be 254 feet long at 3.9<br />

MHz using insulated wire. What<br />

could be wrong? (Rick - KF5LSN)<br />

A. Your original calculation was very close.<br />

Dividing 1005 by the lowest frequency in megahertz<br />

gives the correct circumference in feet.<br />

Since you are using insulated wire, you should<br />

reduce the circumference by 4%. This would be<br />

247 feet.<br />

The feedpoint impedance of such a loop<br />

(or a dipole) is about 100 ohms, a 2:1 SWR if<br />

you’re using coax feed. In some cases, changing<br />

the length of the transmission line is as important<br />

as the correct antenna length.<br />

It’s a good idea to use open-wire feeders<br />

(twin lead or ladder line) for antennas with a<br />

high or variable feedpoint impedance, especially<br />

multiband antennas. Because of the separation<br />

of the conductors and the amount of insulation<br />

between them, t<strong>here</strong>’s almost no loss whatsoever<br />

under high SWR. The tuner adjusts the impedance<br />

mismatch between the antenna system and<br />

the rig.<br />

Here’s a good article on HF loops: www.<br />

k5rcd.org/hor%20loop%20instruct.htm<br />

Q. If the PAR End Fedz antenna<br />

is properly tuned, can it be used<br />

for transmitting in the 10-40m<br />

bands? I autotuned it the other<br />

night on 7.200 MHz and came<br />

up with a respectable SWR. (Matt,<br />

email)<br />

A. Autotuners work well within certain SWR<br />

limits, but if it’s excessive, then you will need a<br />

manually tuned transmatch. Still, keep in mind<br />

that the mismatch is still present between the<br />

coax and the antenna feedpoint; the properly<br />

adjusted match is made only at the transmitter/<br />

tuner junction.<br />

Since the PAR End Fedz is designed for<br />

receiving only, t<strong>here</strong> may be some components<br />

within the insulated housing that would be<br />

vulnerable to excessive impedance mismatch as<br />

well as proper RF current and thus be damaged<br />

by the heat.<br />

You should check with the manufacturer<br />

for their recommendations regarding maximum<br />

RF power and SWR vulnerability. You are<br />

probably all right at low power (10-20 watts),<br />

but check regularly to see if you can feel heat<br />

being generated in the housing.<br />

Q. I was wondering about the<br />

differences between ceramic<br />

and monolithic capacitors. Do<br />

they function differently? Are certain<br />

circuits or functions better<br />

suited for one or the other? (Van<br />

Wilshire, email)<br />

A. Ceramic merely refers to the insulating<br />

material as compared to paper, mica, polyester,<br />

resin, or Mylar for example. Monolithic simply<br />

means that several layers of the insulation are<br />

alternately interleaved with layers of the metal.<br />

Then the whole block is compressed into a<br />

monolith (single chunk) as compared to being<br />

rolled into a cylinder (tubular).<br />

Yes, different styles work better at different<br />

frequencies. An excellent illustration of these<br />

differences and their applications can be found<br />

at www.gqrp.com/na5n.pdf.<br />

Q. My new digital scanner is not<br />

picking up signals as well as my<br />

old analog scanner. What sort of<br />

antenna should I put up? (Gregg<br />

Fear, email)<br />

A. Can you hear analog signals as well on your<br />

new scanner as you did with the old scanner? In<br />

a side-by-side comparison t<strong>here</strong> should be no<br />

difference in reception since you are listening<br />

to the same signals. If t<strong>here</strong> is, then I’d suspect<br />

the scanner.<br />

Are you having to use a different adapter on<br />

your antenna cable than you were before? Make<br />

sure it’s not loose and is making a good contact<br />

with the scanner receptacle.<br />

Digital signals must be stronger than analog<br />

to be heard properly. As with TV, analog signals<br />

can tolerate some static and still be seen, but<br />

digital needs all the pulses and no noise to get a<br />

TV picture and sound.<br />

For scanner coax, don’t use RG-58/U in<br />

long runs; it’s very lossy at VHF and especially<br />

UHF. Use RG-6/U outdoor TV coax or, in the<br />

worst cases, more expensive low-loss cables like<br />

RG-8/U, Belden 9913, or LMR400.<br />

The lowest cost, high performance scanner<br />

antennas include the Grove Scanner Beam III<br />

(which is directional) and the ScanTenna (omnidirectional).<br />

You can see their specifications<br />

at www.grove-ent.com/scannerbeam3.html<br />

and www.grove-ent.com/ANT7.html.<br />

Q. My new floor lamp takes standard<br />

light bulbs, 60 watts maximum.<br />

But the instructions say not<br />

to use CFLs exceeding 13 watts!<br />

CFLs are known for operating<br />

much cooler than incandescent<br />

and I’d like to use some bright 30<br />

watt CFL’s. (Judy May, W1ORO,<br />

Union, Kentucky)<br />

A. T<strong>here</strong>’s nothing wrong with putting in those<br />

30 watt CFLs; they will operate cooler than the<br />

60 watt incandescents, and provide brighter light<br />

as well!<br />

(Note: Judy let us know that she went ahead<br />

and tried the 30 watt CFL, and then a 42 watt<br />

CFL, and both stayed cooler than the 60 watt<br />

incandescent!)<br />

Questions or tips sent to Ask Bob, c/o MT are<br />

printed in this column as space permits. Mail<br />

your questions along with a self-addressed<br />

stamped envelope in care of MT, or e-mail<br />

to bobgrove@monitoringtimes.com. (Please<br />

include your name and address.)<br />

August 2012 MONITORING TIMES 23

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