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❖ Snaking your antenna<br />
around obstacles<br />
Sure, the closest distance between two<br />
points is a straight line, but if you are camping<br />
in a forested area, you probably won’t find many<br />
straight-line opportunities. This is a major reason<br />
why I like insulated wire for these antennas. You<br />
can run them over brush, on top of rocks – anyw<strong>here</strong><br />
– just be mindful of the tripping hazard.<br />
You certainly don’t want anyone passing through<br />
to trip and get hurt on your antenna.<br />
You can also use additional ropes run over<br />
tree branches to pull your antenna from the sides<br />
to help get around obstacles, such as other trees in<br />
your way, if a perfect straight line isn’t available.<br />
Keep in mind, the more complex your antenna<br />
plans are, the longer it will take to install and<br />
remove your antenna. It would, after all, be nice<br />
to have some time to listen to your radio.<br />
❖ Setting up your radio<br />
and ground<br />
Regardless of what antenna you create,<br />
you’ll need to get that signal to your radio. If<br />
you’re taking a portable – and these two articles<br />
have assume that you were – that has external<br />
antenna and ground jacks, that’s wonderful. Keep<br />
in mind that those portables were designed to use<br />
very small, inefficient antennas, not these large,<br />
resonant, super-awesome antennas we’re talking<br />
about <strong>here</strong>, and the front-end mixer of your radio<br />
will likely see some severe signal overload. You<br />
can install a resistor on the feed line between the<br />
antenna and the radio. I have no idea what resistor<br />
to suggest, as the needed value will vary, but you<br />
could install a potentiometer to adjust resistance.<br />
You could also eliminate the mechanical connection<br />
by running piece of insulated wire from<br />
the antenna jack and wrapping it around the feed<br />
line (which would be connected to ground). This<br />
is technically very similar to what seems to me<br />
the easiest method of joining the antenna to the<br />
radio, simply wrapping insulated feed line – which<br />
should go directly to ground – around the radio’s<br />
telescopic antenna.<br />
Every antenna always needs a good ground.<br />
For a temperate climate, I would recommend a<br />
piece of copper rod about three feet long that you<br />
can drive into the ground. I think anything longer<br />
is a bit cumbersome for a temporary setup. You<br />
could devote a great deal of time learning about<br />
the resistance values of various soils, but the<br />
damper the soil the better. Check your ground with<br />
the positive lead of your meter – which you should<br />
definitely bring along – to make sure current is<br />
flowing to ground. If current isn’t flowing freely<br />
– or at all – you can try pouring some water on<br />
the soil around your ground rod and check again.<br />
If the soil is very dry, you may also need to add<br />
water later.<br />
❖ Modifying your AM radio<br />
for external antenna<br />
As mentioned earlier in the Beverage section,<br />
this may present a perfect opportunity for erecting<br />
extremely long – although temporary – antennas,<br />
and that’s great news if you enjoy medium-wave<br />
DX. This would be especially true for AM DXing.<br />
You can use two trees to create a loop antenna<br />
like this one.<br />
One time-tested way of improving AM reception<br />
is simply by placing a radio with an internal ferrite<br />
AM antenna within the magnetic field of another<br />
antenna. Yes, that can improve reception, but you<br />
don’t have to settle for that. You have the power<br />
to bring your own magnetic field inside the radio.<br />
You can make this modification on virtually<br />
any AM radio (if you plan to modify a nice radio,<br />
you may want to practice this modification on a<br />
cheap one). I have a newer wood-case Crosley<br />
radio, to which I’ve attached a tunable loop antenna<br />
with great results. All you need is access to<br />
the internal ferrite antenna inside and a little bit<br />
of very, very small gauge wire. You can make this<br />
modification as fancy or as basic as you want. You<br />
may want to drill a small hole in the radio cabinet<br />
and install a proper jack for your external antenna,<br />
but I’ve got two such modified radios that just<br />
have wires sticking out and they work fine.<br />
I’ve had good results with just wrapping a<br />
few turns of 22-gauge enamel-coated magnet wire<br />
around the ferrite antenna itself. Obviously, you’ll<br />
want to be careful you don’t short out anything<br />
inside as you do this. Magnet wire works well for<br />
this because it’s so thin that it’s easy to work it<br />
around the ferrite antenna without removing the<br />
internal antenna from the radio.<br />
One end of the magnet wire (remember, you<br />
have to scrape off the enamel to make a connection)<br />
should be soldered to the antenna itself and<br />
If you are unable to run a straight length of<br />
wire, you can use extra ropes and insulators to<br />
pull the antenna around obstacles.<br />
the other end should be soldered to ground. It<br />
doesn’t matter which end goes w<strong>here</strong>, just as long<br />
as one goes to the antenna and one to ground.<br />
You can overload your medium-wave radio<br />
just like your shortwave radio. If you are using a<br />
MW resonant antenna, you may want to consider<br />
installing a potentiometer or some other sort of<br />
resistor between the antenna and the radio.<br />
Speaking of 22-gauge enamel-coated magnet<br />
wire, I replaced the wire from my window-loop<br />
antenna (as discussed in the Stealth SWL column<br />
a few issues back) with magnet wire. Now, I’ve<br />
got about 200 hundred feet of wire in the window<br />
and it’s harder to see than ever. As a receiving<br />
antenna, it’s worked great.<br />
Contact David Payne Sr. via e-mail at dave@<br />
elkriverharmonicas.com.<br />
You can hook up an external antenna to your<br />
AM radio by simply wrapping a few turns of<br />
enamel-coated magnet wire around the internal<br />
ferrite antenna. Connect one end of this wire to<br />
your antenna and the other to ground.<br />
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August 2012 MONITORING TIMES 69