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RADIO RESTORATIONS<br />

BRINGING OLD RADIOS BACK TO LIFE<br />

More on the Midget Arvin and<br />

Sets You Don’t Want to Plug In!<br />

Marc Ellis, N9EWJ<br />

marcellis@monitoringtimes.com<br />

In last month’s column, I mentioned how<br />

my wish for a project radio small enough<br />

to fit on my currently cluttered benchtop<br />

seemed to have been almost providentially<br />

granted. While attending the Antique Wireless<br />

Asociation spring meet, which is always held<br />

in conjunction with the AWA May board meeting,<br />

I came across the perfect set: one of those<br />

midget metal-cased Arvins. However, the very<br />

diminutiveness that seemed to be such an asset<br />

had the effect of stopping me in my tracks a little<br />

earlier in this work session than I had anticipated.<br />

But I’m getting ahead of my story.<br />

I began this month’s work session with the<br />

prospect of spending a few quiet hours recapping<br />

the little Arvin. As regular readers know,<br />

I start most radio restorations with replacement<br />

of all paper and electrolytic capacitors. Turning<br />

the set upside down, I took a good look at its<br />

underside for the first time. What I saw caused<br />

me to quickly abandon my plans for a wholesale<br />

recapping.<br />

The wiring is so tight in this little chassis<br />

that it must have been installed in layers.<br />

I thought I might do more harm than good as<br />

I disturbed various connections to wire in the<br />

new capacitors. It would be easy to create short<br />

circuits as I moved parts around. So I decided to<br />

use a servicing technique that would have been<br />

normal for the era when the set was current: turn<br />

it on, look for trouble, and correct any faults that<br />

occur as they come up.<br />

Rivets on the unusual cord restraint had to be<br />

drilled out so it could be removed (see text).<br />

❖ Needed: A Line Cord<br />

But before I could power up this radio, I<br />

would have to provide it with a line cord. The<br />

original was clipped off w<strong>here</strong> it entered the<br />

chassis. Looking at the deteriorating remnants<br />

of the cord left inside the chassis, I could see<br />

why. Like most rubber zip cord of the time, this<br />

one must have become a safety hazard with the<br />

usual flaking insulation and exposed wire.<br />

62 MONITORING TIMES August 2012<br />

Making way for the new line cord turned<br />

out to be a bit of a project. The remnants of the<br />

old cord were held in a tight grip by a restraint<br />

system I had never seen before. The cord was<br />

sandwiched between a couple of small pieces<br />

of insulating board that were riveted to each<br />

other and the chassis apron. The rivets had to be<br />

drilled out so that the restraint system could be<br />

removed. Having done that, I replaced it with a<br />

rubber grommet, ran the new cord through, and<br />

prevented it from pulling out with a knot on the<br />

inside of the chassis.<br />

❖ Checking the Tubes<br />

Once the new cord was hooked up, I removed<br />

the radio’s four tubes and checked them<br />

against the chassis layout shown in Rider’s<br />

to make sure that the correct tube had been<br />

installed in each socket. All the tubes checked<br />

out fine on my Navy TV-7, though I wouldn’t<br />

have been surprised to find one with an open<br />

heater – which is one of the most common faults<br />

in an a.c.-d.c. receiver.<br />

With the tubes out of their sockets, I cleared<br />

out most of the dust from the chassis and various<br />

crevices using nothing more than a damp cloth.<br />

Though t<strong>here</strong> was plenty of dust, t<strong>here</strong> was little<br />

or no pitting – a sign that this radio had been<br />

stored inside, not in a garage or shed w<strong>here</strong> t<strong>here</strong><br />

was no environmental control. Before each tube<br />

was permanently seated in its socket, I sprayed<br />

its pins with contact cleaner and ran it in and out<br />

of the socket a few times.<br />

❖ The Smoke Test<br />

Now I was ready to try the radio – an<br />

operation that seemed very strange to me with<br />

the original capacitors still in place. I plugged<br />

it in through a little autotransformer I have that<br />

has four voltage steps – at about 40, 60, 80 and<br />

120 volts. The autotransformer was powered,<br />

in turn, through an isolation transformer. The<br />

latter wasn’t technically necessary, since this<br />

radio has a “floating ground” (see last month’s<br />

column). That should protect the user from a<br />

hot chassis situation, but its protection could be<br />

compromised by a leaky bypass capacitor.<br />

Before turning up the voltage, I set up a<br />

multimeter to monitor the power supply’s d.c.<br />

output by connecting it from the 35Z5 cathode<br />

to the floating ground. A lack of d.c. voltage or<br />

a sudden voltage falloff would be an indication<br />

of a possible short and a signal to turn off the<br />

radio immediately.<br />

Turning the set on, I increased the autotransformer<br />

voltage slowly, leaving it set at each<br />

switch position for several minutes. T<strong>here</strong> was<br />

no smoke, but as I reached the 80-volt position<br />

I began to notice a loud, raspy a.c. hum that was<br />

unaffected by the position of the volume control.<br />

This is the classic indication of one or more open<br />

filter capacitors.<br />

❖ The Capacitor Problem<br />

The Arvin is equipped with a three-section<br />

electrolytic capacitor. Two of these (40 uf and 20<br />

uf at 150 volts) are filter capacitors and the third<br />

(20 uf at 25 volt) is the cathode bypass for the<br />

50L6 power amplifier. My next move would be<br />

to change out this capacitor, but <strong>here</strong>’s w<strong>here</strong> I<br />

ran into trouble. None of the multi-section caps<br />

in my stock could possibly fit in the tiny space<br />

available. And even the most compact unit available<br />

new was an inch too long.<br />

The Arvin’s cramped chassis makes capacitor<br />

replacement an adventure.<br />

It looks as if the only course open to me<br />

is to order three individual caps of the correct<br />

sizes and somehow shoehorn them into the small<br />

space available. Modern low-voltage electrolytics<br />

tend to be quite small, so I’m hoping I<br />

can make this scheme work out. Next month’s<br />

column should tell the tale.<br />

❖ Don’t Plug These Sets In!<br />

This topic was inspired by a query that<br />

recently came across the desk of our publisher,<br />

Bob Grove. I knew some of the answer and, in<br />

researching the rest, I came across some very<br />

interesting material.<br />

Here’s the issue: almost every serious radio<br />

collector will eventually come across a routinelooking<br />

radio, usually a table model in a wood<br />

cabinet, that is designed to run on some value<br />

of d.c. – generally 110 volts, 6 volts or 32 volts.<br />

Quite often, the radio will be internally fried<br />

because somebody in the past has mistaken it<br />

for a routine a.c. model and plugged it into the<br />

a.c. line.

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