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What really does cause induction contamination? - TAT - The ...

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YOU<br />

SAID<br />

IT!<br />

Oil and water just don’t<br />

mix in a VW Transporter<br />

Vehicle: VW Transporter
<br />

Engine: AXE/TDI
<br />

Kilometres: 117,358
<br />

Transmission: manual 6<br />

speed
 
<br />

<strong>The</strong> vehicle was losing water<br />

into the crank case, with no<br />

sign of overheating.
<br />

We first investigated the<br />

engine oil cooler be<strong>cause</strong> there<br />

were no visible leaks and no<br />

discernable drop in pressure.<br />

<strong>The</strong> vehicle was then driven for<br />

about 45 minutes before the<br />

coolant low light came on.
 
<br />

<strong>The</strong> air conditioning<br />

compressor was removed<br />

to gain access to oil filter<br />

housing.
 
<strong>The</strong> engine oil cooler<br />

is bolted onto the oil filter<br />

housing via five torx screw and<br />

four o-rings to seal between oil<br />

and water.<br />

<strong>The</strong> oil filter housing is bolted<br />

onto the engine block via a<br />

metal gasket. Water is fed by<br />

an external hose through the<br />

cooler and then back into the<br />

block – so only one hose.
 
<br />

You cannot bypass the oil<br />

cooler to test and it would have<br />

been too hard with the a/c<br />

compressor in the way.
 
<br />

<strong>The</strong> oil cooler, o-rings and<br />

gasket were replaced.<br />

Watermarks could be seen<br />

bypassing the o-ring into the<br />

oil, so we thought we had hit<br />

the nail on the head.
 
After<br />

flushing the oil and cooling<br />

system, it pressure tested OK.
<br />

Drove the car for about 45<br />

minutes and the coolant level<br />

low warning appeared on the<br />

dash. Back in the workshop,<br />

there was water in the oil.<br />

Now we were scratching our<br />

heads.
 On further diagnosis<br />

we found that the water pump<br />

is gear driven and is inside the<br />

rear of the engine block. <strong>The</strong><br />

inspection plate was removed<br />

and we found the water pump<br />

bearings collapsed.
 
<br />

Also, be<strong>cause</strong> of free play<br />

on the water pump shaft, the<br />

gear drive had been hitting the<br />

securing bolts and shaved half<br />

of the head away. Luckily we<br />

managed to get them off with a<br />

bit of a struggle.
 
<br />

So for anyone getting a<br />

water-in-oil problem with this<br />

engine, with no evidence of<br />

external leaks and the car<br />

not overheating, replace the<br />

engine oil cooler and water<br />

pump at the same time.<br />

Don’t forget to order water<br />

pump bolts and receiver drier<br />

for the a/c.
 
<br />

Parts list:
<br />

VW-070121011DX<br />

Water pump
VW-N91046902<br />

Water pump screws<br />

(stretch bolts by the way)
<br />

VW-071115562C<br />

Oil filter 
VW-070117021D<br />

Oil cooler VCP 17C6 13
<br />

VW-070198389<br />

Seals VCP 17C6 1328 (comes<br />

with four o-rings)
<br />

VW-070115441A<br />

Gasket, oil filter HSG
VW-<br />

7L0898191A<br />

Drier, air conditioning
 oil<br />

flush, coolant flush, coolant<br />

and oil.
 
<br />

Total time taken over 8 hours<br />

including oil and coolant flush,<br />

but can probably do it in 4-5<br />

next time without messing<br />

around.
<br />

Hope this helps a fellow<br />

technician.
<br />

Bruce Yeung
<br />

Autoactive Car Solutions
<br />

ARTARMON NSW 
 
<br />

Remove the a/c compressor<br />

Oil cooler and oil filter housing<br />

Worn water pump bolt heads<br />

inside the rear of the motor<br />

Water in the oil on the filter<br />

Worn and damaged water pump<br />

Note the corrosion around the<br />

o-ring marks on the oil cooler<br />

mounting<br />

Water pump mounted at the<br />

rear of the motor<br />

<strong>The</strong> Automotive Technician 23

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