Hydrogenated Soya Lecithin NIKKOL Lecinol S-10 - Cosmesi.it

Hydrogenated Soya Lecithin
NIKKOL Lecinol S-10
R 1 COOCH 2
|
R 2 COOCH O R 1 ,R 2 : Hydrogenated Alkyl
| ∥
H 2 COPOX
X : Phosphatidyl Choline
|
O -
INCI name
: HYDROGENATEDLECITHIN
JCIC name
: Hydrogenated Soybean Phospholipid
CLS ingredient code : 42-506017
CAS number : 92128-87-5
EINECS number : 295-786-7
Lecithin is one of the most important components of a cell and plays an
important role in its metabolism, especially in its constitution and membrane
penetrability. For many years its use as a bio-surfactant in cosmetics has been studied.
However, its application to cosmetics has been limited because of its oxidation and
instability against heat.
Nikkol Lecinol S-10 retains all the good qualities of natural lecithin, yet its
stability is greatly improved. Moreover, unlike common surfactants, Nikkol Lecinol
S-10 forms stable liposomes when it is dispersed in water, which can be involved both
water-soluble and lipo-soluble substances.
. Physical properties
Appearance
Acid Value
Iodine Value
: Slight yellow to light yellow powder with faint characteristic odor
: 40 max.
: 10 max.
Loss on Drying : 2.0% max. (3g, 105, 1 hour)

. Stability against Oxidation
Fig. 1 shows the stability against oxidation of Nikkol Lecinol S-10 versus Soya
Lecithin at 60.
40
30
POV
20
10
Soya Lecithin
Egg Yolk Lecithin
NIKKOL Lecinol S-10
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Preservation Period (day)
Fig. 1
Stability against oxidation
. Stability against Heat
Fig. 2 shows the stability against heat of Nikkol Lecinol S-10 versus Soya Lecithin,
showing the permeation and variation rate of various wavelengths after 95 days at 60.
The results show that Nikkol Lecinol S-10 is more stable than Soya Lecithin against
heat.
Wavelengths Permeation
120
100
80
60
40
20
Initial
After 95 days
Rate of Decrease
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
Variation Rate
Wavelength Permeation
120
100
80
60
40
20
Initial
After 95 days
Rate of Decrease
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
Variation Rate
0
380 400 450 500
Wavelengths (nm)
0
0
380 400 450 500
Wavelength (nm)
0
Soya Lecithin Nikkol Lecinol S-10
Fig. 2
Stability against heat

. Compatibility with Other Surfactants
Compatibility with other surfactants is important when we formulate detergents
include Nikkol Lecinol S-10. The following tables show the compatibility of various
concentrations of Nikkol Lecinol S-10 as 20% aqueous solution with anionic, cationic
and amphoteric surfactants at 2, 25, 60.
Table 1
Lecinol
Compatibility with anionic surfactants
SAA NES-203-27 1) SLS 2) Sarcosinate LN 3) DLP-10 4)
S-10 (%) 2 25 60 2 25 60 2 25 60 2 25 60
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
1): Sodium C12-15 Pareth-3 Sulfate 2): Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
3): Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 4): Dilaureth-10 Phosphate
Table 2 Compatibility with cationic and amphoteric surfactants
Lecinol S-10 SAA CA-101 1) CA-2450 2) AM-301 3)
(%) 2 25 60 2 25 60 2 25 60
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
1): Benzalkonium Chloride 2): Steartrimonium Chloride 3):Lauryl Betaine
Transparent liquid
Opaque slightly viscous liquid
Opaque viscous liquid
Solid
Phase separation

. Solubility
Table 3 shows the solubility of Nikkol Lecinol S-10 into common cosmetic raw
materials at 25 and 80.
Table 3 Solubility in cosmetic raw materials
Cosmetic raw Temperature 25 80
materials Concentration 1% 5% 1% 5%
Ethanol I I I I
Propyleneglycol I I I TD
5% Propyleneglycol aq. soln. I D TD I
Glycerin PS D S S
5% Glycerin aq. soln. D D TD TD
2-Hexyldecanol I I S S
Cetyl Octanoate I I S S
Trioctanoin I I S S
Corn Oil I I I I
Squalane I I S TD
S: Soluble I: Insoluble D: Dispersion
PS: Partially Soluble
TD: Semi-Transparent Dispersion
. Efficacy on Foaming Power of Detergent
This figure shows the efficacy of Nikkol Lecinol S-10 on the forming power of
anionic surfactant using the Loss & Miles Method. According to the results, Nikkol
Lecinol S-10 makes foam luxurious without decreasing its volume.
250
200
Initial
After 5 min
Height (mm)
150
100
50
0
1 2 3
1: Sodium C12-15 Pareth-3 Sulfate (0.25wt%)
2: Sodium C12-15 Pareth-3 Sulfate / Soya lecithin (0.25wt% / 0.25wt% )
3: Sodium C12-15 Pareth-3 Sulfate / Lecinol S-10 (0.25wt% / 0.25wt%)
Fig. 3 Efficacy on foaming power of detergent

. Safety
Modification effect of skin irritation was investigated pathologically using 0.5%
NIKKOL Lecinol S-10 with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS, 5% aq.). Results are
shown in Table 4. The presence of NIKKOL Lecinol S-10 resulted in a significant
reduction of SLS-induced irritation. The results suggested that NIKKOL Lecinol
S-10 has the efficacy to reduce the skin irritation caused by other ingredients.
[Method]
Hartley albino guinea pigs (six in a group) were used in this test. Before the test,
hair was shaved from the dorsal of the trunk. Each animal received test material,
each of which was applied under gauze with occlusive patch for 48 hours. Two
hours after the removal of the patch the application sites were scored. Then
necropsy with gross-pathological examination was carried out.
Table 4
Comparison of skin irritation score
Distilled
Water
Propylen
Glycol
(5%)
SLS(0.5%)
NIKKOL
Lecinol
S-10
(0.5%)
SLS(0.5%)
+NIKKOL
Lecinol
S-10
(0.5%)
Hyperkeratinization
Gulanular layer gain
Thick in percutaneous
Chromosome singular
Achromocyte
Incomplete keratinization
Eschar formation
Gulanular layer reduction
Oedema
Infiltrate of epidermal cell
Infiltrate of dermal
inflammatory cell
Congestion
Collagen fiber breakage
Collagen fiber swelling
4
5
6
0
7
0
0
0
3
2
6
9
7
7
7
6
7
0
6
0
0
0
1
1
8
11
8
8
9
11
12
2
6
8
0
0
0
7
17
18
16
12
8
4
5
0
3
0
0
0
5
0
6
8
6
9
1
5
10
0
7
0
0
0
7
0
11
14
12
10
Score 56 63 118 54 77

. Formulations
(1) Milk Lotion
(A) Nikkol Lecinol S-10 (Hydrogenated Lecithin) 5.0 wt%
Nikkol GM-18IS (Batyl Isostearate) 1.0
Nikkol Trifat S-308 (Trioctanoin) 4.0
Butylparaben 0.1
(B) 1, 3-Butyleneglycol 5.0
Methylparaben 0.1
Distilled Water 84.8
(C) Perfume
qs
Procedure: Heat (A) and (B) in separate vessels at 80. Add (B) to (A) and
mixing until uniform. When (A)+(B) is at 50, add (C). Cool to desired filling
temperature.
(2) Lotion
(A) Nikkol Lecinol S-10 (Hydrogenated Lecithin)
2.0 wt%
Ethanol 10.0
Sorbitol (70%) 3.0
Glycerin 3.0
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate 0.1
Methylparaben 0.1
Distilled Water 81.8
(B) Perfume
qs
Procedure: Heat (A) with continued slow sweep agitation. Cool to 50 and add
(B).
(3) Hair Conditioner, Treatment
(A) Nikkol Lecinol S-10 (Hydrogenated Lecithin) 2.0 wt%
Nikkol BO-2 (Oleth-2) 5.0
Swanol CA-2465 (Steartrimonium Chloride) 7.7
Nikkol IPM-EX (Isopropyl Myristate) 9.0
2-Octyldodecanol 4.0
Behenyl Alcohol 2.0
(B) Distilled Water 70.3
(C) Perfume
qs
Procedure: Heat (A) and (B) in separate vessels at 80. Add (B) to (A) and
mixing until uniform. When (A)+(B) is at 50, add (C). Cool to desired filling
temperature.
*We do not guarantee the stability of final product formulations in this brochure though the
stability was checked at 40 for 3 weeks.
Revised Feb., 1999