nikko chemicals co., ltd. - Cosmesi.it

Treatment 

Makeup 

Solutions 

Combinations of active 

and powder ingredients 

for modern functional 

makeup: 

Transparency 

Wrinkle Concealing 

Pore Concealing 

Moisturization 

2010-05

Carbonylation level (AU) 

Skin transparency index 

NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD. 

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: inter@nikkol.co.jp www.nikkol.co.jp 

Transparency: Active 

Silver Vine Extract BG30 

Brightening for Stratum Corneum: 

Recently it was found that decrease in the 

skin transparency is induced by protein 

carbonylation in the stratum corneum. 

Carbonylation makes corneocytes opaque 

and enhances their color resulting in “nontransparent 

skin” and yellowish or grayish 

unhealthy appearance. 

Silver Vine Extract BG30 effectively inhibits 

carbonylation of proteins in corneocytes 

(stratum corneum cells). 

The in vivo evaluation demonstrated that 

“skin transparency index” can be improved 

by one point with 1% of Silver Vine Extract 

BG30. 

Translucent skin 

Light is reflected 

from inside of the skin 

Opaque skin 

Decrease in the reflected 

light from inside of the skin 

In vitro: Inhibition of protein 

carbonylation in corneocytes 

(carbonylation level is evaluated by 

intensity of green fluorescent dye) 

In vivo: Improvement of skin transparency 

Period: 28 days. 

Dosage of Silver Vine Extract BG30: 1%. 

Results: Skin transparency index (evaluated by 

dermatologist) increased by approximately 

one point. Color of the skin became brighter 

and skin roughness was improved. 

0 0.2% 1.0% 


175 

150 

125 

100 

75 

50 

25 

0 

0 

0.2% 1.0% 


2009-08



Transparency: Powder 

Composite Powder AL-40 

Composite Powder AL-40 is an innovative complex powder with a first of 

its kind combination of spherical matrix and plate shape coating. Even 

with a small amount, this powder imparts its specific properties to 

achieve an ideal foundation featuring seemingly opposite qualities : 

Natural but good coverage 

Matrix: Silicone powder 

Coating: Alumina 

INCI name CAS. No. Content(%) 

DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 1553668-87-2 60.0 

ALUMINA 1344-28-1 40.0 

Average particle size : 10 – 12μm 

Adding natural coverage with alumina plate 

Naturalness 

* Refractive index of healthy human skin = 1.70 

Coverage 

Method : 

Powders are mixed with liquid 

paraffin at the ratio of 3 : 2. 

The mixtures are applied 

onto frosted quartz plates. 

Coverage of the powders 

are visually observed. 

Micronized 

TiO2 coated 

Mica 

Polyurethane 

Powder 

AL-40 

Blank 

2010-05




Composite Powder AL-40 

2 way powder foundation Formula# 

PF-C002-S-5 

With 

AL-40 

Without 

AL-40 

Summary 

Unlike conventional complex powders, Composite Powder AL-40 possesses all 4 

important qualities as a powder ingredient for foundations : Naturalness, Coverage, Light 

Scattering, Slip. 

2010-05




Transparency, Natural Healthy Look 

With Nice Feeling 

LFS-N005(f)-8 

INCI 

W/W% 

ISOSTEARIC ACID 0.80 

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 15.85 

TOCOPHEROL 0.05 

A 

DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE 

CROSSPOLYMER 

0.15 

TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 6.00 

POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE 0.50 

PEG-9 DIMETHICONE 3.00 

ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.30 

MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA SEED OIL 2.00 

Pigment 16.00 

B 

Plastic Powder D-400 3.00 

Composite Powder AL-40 1.00 

SILVER VINE EXTRACT BG30 (MARUZEN) 0.01 

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.20 

C 

BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5.00 

WATER 45.64 

SODIUM CITRATE 0.50 

Manufacture process 

1) Mix A+B uniformly 

2) Dissolve C uniformly 

3) Add C slowly into A+B and emulsify 

4) Mix with Homomixer at 3000rpm 

100 

2010-05

Laminin-5 

production (%) 



Wrinkles: Active 

New approach to deep wrinkles and other signs of aging 

Siratro Extract BG 

Extracted from one the fastest growing plants in the world, Siratro Extract BG 

demonstrates a strong stimulation of the synthesis of laminin-5 and collagen type 

IV, the main components of the epidermal-dermal junction (EDJ). 

The complex linking the dermis with the epidermis plays a critical role in wrinkle 

formation. Thus, the EDJ is designed to bind collagen fibers in the upper part of 

dermis with the epidermal base membrane, allowing collagen to fulfill its main 

function: to support the epidermis and maintain the skin’s elasticity. 

If the EDJ is damaged, proper bonding of collagen with epidermis is impaired, 

resulting in the formation of deep wrinkles and sagging. 

In vitro: increase of laminin-5 production 

300 

250 

200 

150 

100 

50 

0 

cont. 

** 

Siratro Extract 

BG (0.5%) 

Ex vivo: increase of collagen type IV in 3D skin 

model (after 14 days) 

Control 

Siratro Extract BG 

Before 

After 1 month 

In vivo: improvement of deep wrinkles 

(cream with 1% Siratro Extract BG) 

Siratro 

Extract BG 

(1%) 

Subjects: 10. 

Application: Twice daily for 1 month 

(eye area). 

Evaluation : Replica method. 

Placebo 

Epidermis 

Dermis 

Stimulation of synthesis of epidermal-dermal junction 

(EDJ) results in visual improvement of deep wrinkles 

2010.03



Wrinkles: Actives 

In this section we proudly present active ingredients which improve wrinkles, make 

skin more elastic and provide healthier and younger look. Their mechanisms of 

action include promotion of collagen synthesis, suppression of collagenase, 

improvement of cell viability, protection of skin cells’ DNA from UV light and 

oxidative stress. 

Primary Ingredients 

Botanical ingredients are marked : 

Tocoretinate-10 

Caprylic/capric triglyceride solution containing 10% of an 

ester of retinoic acid and natural vitamin E. Effectively 

reduces skin wrinkles at 1% concentration (clinically tested). 

Promotes collagen synthesis. Scavenges active oxygen 

species. Does not release retinoic acid due to the 

resistance to breakdown by esterase. Low skin irritation 

potential. 

Star Fruit Extract 

BG30 

Extract from the leafs of Star Fruit (Averrhoa Carambola). 

Strong collagen synthesis promotion. Clinically tested 

(improvement of skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction (1%; 30 

days). 

Himalayan 

Raspberry 

Extract BG80 

Derived from the roots of Himalayan Raspberry from Nepal. 

Contains Kaji-Ichigoside F1, a strong anti-wrinkle active 

ingredient. Remarkable promotion of fibroblast proliferation. 

Skin moisture retention effect provides smoother skin without 

sagging. Clinically tested (in-vivo): visible improvement of 

facial wrinkles in 21 days; 1%. 

Phyto-elastisizer BG 

Extract from the leafs of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Contains active 

fraction Genistein, one of the strongest known whitening 

actives. Improves skin elasticity. Strong collagen synthesis 

promotion. Promotion of cell recovery after UV exposure. 

Clinically tested (reduction of wrinkles in the corner of the 

eye (10%; 32 days). Additional estrogen-like activity. 

VC-IP 

Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Reduces UVinduced 

cell/DNA damage. 

Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Revitalizing 

effect on cells. Promotion of collagen synthesis. Inhibition of 

activity of collagen degrading enzymes MMP-2 and MMP-9. 

Updated: 2004-11



Wrinkles: Actives 

Appendix: In-Vivo Test Results 

Tocoretinate-10 

Wrinkle reduction effect (replica). 

Test period: 90 days. 

Concentration: 1%. 

Before 

After 

Star Fruit Extract BG30 




Before 

After 

Himalayan Raspberry 

Extract BG80 




Before 

After 





Before 

After 

Updated: 2004-11



Wrinkles: Powder 

Plastic Powder 

D-400 

INCI: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer and Silica. It 

provides remarkable soft texture and smooth feeling to 

formulations. The softness of Plastic Powder D-400 is 50 times 

higher than nylon powder and over 100 times higher than 

PMMA. Superior pore / wrinkle concealing effect. 

Wrinkle concealing effect (artificial 

skin). Powders are mixed with 

mineral oil (50:50). 

PMMA Nylon 12 Plastic Powder 

D-400 

Updated: 2005-09



Wrinkles: Powder 

LINE ERASER (Wrinkle Concealing) 

SAMPLE No. LEK-D007 LEK-D008 

A KSG-15 30.00 35.50 

A KSG-16 40.00 45.70 

B 

PLASTIC POWDER D- 

400 or CS-400 9.00 

B HV45-PM20 2.00 

C ODO 1.00 1.00 

C KF-995 16.80 16.80 

C Siratro Extract BG 0.10 

C VCE 0.10 

D SILICA 1.00 1.00 

TOTAL 100.00 100.00 

Updated: 2005-09



Pores: Active 

Active phospholipid for balanced skin barrier, better cell 

differentiation, improvement of tight junction and pore size reduction. 

LPA 

Enzyme-degradated soybean lecithin that contains high concentration (20-30%) of 

Lysophosphatidic acid (LPA). LPA exists in human skin and is an essential element of 

cell membrane. 

In-vivo data: LPA improves corneocyte 

condition and suppresses TEWL 

Before 

application 

After 6 weeks of 

application 

Photographs of stripped stratum 

corneum treated with 0.2% LPA and 

control emulsion. The improvement 

of stratum corneum condition (due 

to stimulation of cell differentiation) 

can be observed when 0.2% LPA 

applied: corneocytes are packed in 

thin layers and have hexagonal 

shape. 

Control 

LPA 

(0.2%) 

In-vivo data: LPA diminishes visible size of pores by 20% due to stimulation of cell differentiation and 

improvement of corneocyte condition 

Placebo 

0.1% LPA 

Before 

After 4 

weeks 

Actual image Processed image Actual image Processed image 

LPA 2010.03

Volume of pore 



Pores: Active 

Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 

In-vivo evaluation: reduction of visual appearance of pores. 

After 4 weeks of application (twice daily). 

Before testing 

Picture of replicas 

After testing 

Microscopic picture 

(after 4 weeks of application) 

1% Rose Fruit Extract 

BG-01 

Control 


BG-01 

Close up pictures 


BG-01 

Control 


BG-01 

Control 

Change in volume of pores 

300 

250 

The volume of pores was 

significantly decreased by 

1% Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 in 

all age groups. 

200 

150 

100 

50 

0 

all Over 30 Over 35 

Age 

Before test 

After test 

Rose Fruit 2007.04



Pores: Powder 

Agar Treated Powders 

Agar Sericite E-4 

Agar Talc F-4 

New concept in treated powders: sericite and talc treated with agar. Agar coating provides unique 

control over moisture: it absorbs moisture in wet conditions, and releases it when air becomes dry. 

Contributes to the long-lasting effect of makeup product. 

Powders with agar treated surface 

provide original concept of “self 

moisture control conditions of makeup 

formula in different conditions”. This 

concept is based upon the fact that 

agar film is able to absorb excess 

sweat or water and release it in dry 

condition. 

Agar treated powders improve stability 

and adherence of makeup to skin due 

to formation of agar gel. Superior 

application texture. Highly 

recommended for water and sweat 

resistant formulations. 

Agar coating 

pigment pigment pigment pigment 

Agar + water gel 

Sweat or 

water 

Skin 

pigment 

pigment pigment pigment 

Skin 

Pore concealing effect of foundation with 20% agar treated powders 

Before 

application 

Immediately after 

application 

4 hours after 

application 

2006-07



Pores: Powder 

Powder Foundations 

PF-V008-1T 

INCI % 

MICA 54 

TALC To make 100 

DIMETHICONE 9 

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 6 

IRON OXIDES 2 

MAGNESIUM STEARATE 2 

Plastic Powder D-400 2 

HYDROGEN DIMETHICONE 2 

ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.17 

LPA 0.01 

2006-07

PGE2 production (μg/mL) 

TEWL (%) 



Moisture: Active 

New mechanism of moisturization: stimulation of 

synthesis of PCA (Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) in skin 

Mallow Moisture 

Mallow Moisture is a natural extract from the flowers of mallow (Malva 

sylvestris). In skin care, it demonstrates two important effects: anti-inflammation 

(through inhibition of the inflammatory cytokine Prostaglandin E2) and 

moisturization (hydration) of the skin through increased PCA synthesis. 

Mallow Moisture acts 

to down-regulate the 

production of PGE2 

(Prostaglandin E2) in 

keratinocytes, and to 

suppress inflammation. 

300 

250 

200 

150 

n=6 

* *: p

Promotion of SPT mRNA Expression (%) 

Amount of Ceramide (mg/mg) 





Extract from the leafs of Glycyrrhiza glabra. 

Contains active fraction Genistein, one of 

the strongest known whitening actives. 

Improves skin elasticity. Strong collagen 

synthesis promotion. Promotion of cell 

recovery after UV exposure. Clinically tested 

(reduction of wrinkles in the corner of the 

eye (10%; 32 days). Additional estrogen-like 

activity. 

150 

100 

50 

Effect on SPT mRNA expression in 

normal human keratonocytes 

108.8 ±3.9 

126.8 ±11.6 

Serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT) is the 

enzyme that catalyzes the first step of the 

biosynthesis of all sphingolipids (including 

ceramides). 

Stimulating SPT increases ceramide 

production in human skin. 

0 

Control 

5 20 

Licorice Leaf Extract 

(as extract solid) (mg/ml) 

In vivo test: increase of ceramide content in skin 

Subjects: 10 male and female volunteers. 

Lotion containing 1% of PHYTO-ELASTICIZER 

BG and placebo lotion were applied twice 

daily for 28days to the inner forearm (24mm 

x 45mm). 

On first and last day of testing corneocytes 

were collected by cyanoacrylate resin. 

Amount of ceramide extracted from 

collected corneocytoes was measured by 

TLC method. 

10 

8 

6 

4 

2 

+29.4% 

5.34 

6.91 

0 

Before 

After 

1% PHYTO-ELASTICIZER BG 

Wrinkle reduction and skin 

microrelief improvement 

effect. 

Test period: 4 weeks. 


Number of subjects: 10. 

Application: twice daily. 

Before 

After 

Updated: 200707




VB6-IP 

Blank VB6 VB6-IP 

Moisturizing effect (in-vivo) 

VB6-IP 2009.07



Moisture: Powder 

Makeup Powders with Moisturizing Effect 

EM SERICITE EW-F8 

EM TALC LW-F8 

Sericite and talc treated with a combination of aloe extract 

and coconut oil. 

This unique coating melts at body temperature and provides a 

moisturizing effect. It also improves adhesion of powders to the 

skin giving makeup a long-lasting effect. 

Both powders have an elegant and creamy texture. When 

aloe coating melts, it enhances slip and provides a unique feel. 

Aloe and coconut oil treatment enhances affinity of powders 

with oils used as binders in pressed foundation: formulations 

made with EM SERICITE EW-F8 and EM TALC LW-F8 

demonstrated good shock-resistance (dropping test). 

EM SERICITE EW-F8 

INCI Name (%) 

MICA 92.0% 

ALOE BARBADENSIS 

LEAF EXTRACT 

COCOS NUCIFERA 

(COCONUT) OIL 

4.0% 

4.0% 

EM TALC LW-F8 

INCI Name (%) 

TALC 92.0% 

ALOE BARBADENSIS 

LEAF EXTRACT 

COCOS NUCIFERA 

(COCONUT) OIL 

4.0% 

4.0% 

Aloe and coconut oil coating 

melts at skin temperature forming 

a moisture matrix and tightly 

binding the powders with the skin 

surface. 

Sensory 

evaluation (15 

subjects). 

Addition of 10% 

of aloe-coated 

powder 

significantly 

improves sensory 

properties of 

pressed 

foundation, in 

particular 

moisturizing 

effect and 

adhesion to skin. 

2009-05



Moisture: Powder 

Powder Foundations 

PF-V009-3T 

INCI % 

TALC To make 100 

MICA 29 

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 5 

OCTYLDODECANOL 4 

MAGNESIUM STEARATE 2 

PLASTIC POWDER D-400 2 

DIMETHICONE 2 

IRON OXIDES 2 

HYDROGEN DIMETHICONE 0.6 

Talc LW-F8 10 

EUPHORBIA CERIFERA 

(CANDELILLA) WAX 

0.2 

ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.135 

Agar Talc E4-SK 1 

Agar Sericite E4-SK 1 

VB6-IP 0.01

N I K K O C H E M I C A L S CO. , LT D . 

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN 

T E L : 81- 3 - 3 6 6 1 - 1677 F A X : 81- 3 - 3 6 6 4 - 8620 

E - m a i l : i n t e r @ n i k k o l . co. jp 

www. n i k k o l . co. jp

nikko chemicals co., ltd. - Cosmesi.it

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