a general guide to beak trimming game birds and duck debilling - Lyon

1690 Brandywine Avenue,
Chula Vista, CA 91911, U.S.A.
Telephone (619) 216-3400
Fax (619) 216-3434
Email: info@loynusa.com
www.lyonusa.com
A GENERAL GUIDE TO BEAK
TRIMMING GAME BIRDS AND
DUCK DEBILLING
BULLETIN
NO. 281-145
8/07
FOREWORD: This bulletin is intended to be an informational guide to and a summary of beak trimming
methods commonly used in the game bird industry today. It is not intended to be authoritative. To our
knowledge, scientific studies have not been made regarding beak trimming on game birds except for
Quail. We are unable to make any recommendation of a particular method or procedure for use in beak
trimming on game birds, we hope the information supplied in this bulletin will aid you in determining the
trimming method that will be most beneficial to your needs.
WHAT IS BEAK TRIMMING?: Beak trimming is the removal of a portion of a bird's beak by trimming and
cauterization or by searing the upper beak. The major advantages of beak trimming are to stop a bird's
fighting and cannibalism tendencies. Birds with trimmed beaks tend to be quieter because a major reason
for their fear of other birds has been eliminated. Other advantages of beak trimming are reduced feed
waste, the elimination of toe and feather picking and reduction in egg loss. Duck debilling is a term used
when referring to the removal of a portion of a duck's bill by cutting and/or searing.
WHAT IS A DEBEAKER®? DEBEAKER® is a registered trademark of Lyon Electric Company, Inc. used on
all beak trimmers manufactured by the Company.
WHY CAUTERIZE? Cauterization of a wound to stop bleeding is as old as the medical profession. With
birds there is the additional advantage of cauterization to promote healing and prevent the possible
spread of disease.
WHEN AND HOW TO BEAK TRIM:The method and age to beak trim or debill will depend on how the bird
will be used, (i.e., meat bird, flight bird, breeder, etc.). It will also be dependent on the grower's needs
and convenience. Because so many methods are used, the producer or grower must in the final analysis
select the method and time most suitable to beak trim or debill his flock.
DO’S AND DON'TS OF BEAK TRIMMING:
1. Don’t beak trim when birds are under stress.
2. In the summer or in warm climates, avoid beak trimming during the hot part of the day.
3. Don't rush beak trimming. Operators should be trained in operation of the Debeaker®.
4. Do keep plenty of feed available after beak trimming.
5. Do keep water available, deep enough so the bird can drink easily.
6. Do keep the cauterizing blade clean and in good condition.
PRACTICE QUALITY: If beak trimming is important enough for you to include it in your operation, it is
important enough to be done correctly. Failure to beak trim properly can damage bird viability and
uniformity. It can cause starve outs, feed wastage and cannibalism, all these add up to lost profits. A
good beak trimming program can save you money. Management evaluation should be used for beak
trimming. Make it a regular practice to see that quality is maintained and new operators are properly
trained. Beak trimming is not the most enjoyable job so don’t overlook the operator's work area. Assure
minimum operator fatigue by arranging an efficient and comfortable work area. The human factor alone
can cause poor beak trimming quality.
PERFORM EQUIPMENT MAINTENANCE REGULARLY: Observe safety precautions. It should be
remembered that while a beak trimmer is used to cut or sear and cauterize, it is an electrical device and
should be treated accordingly. Replace worn or frayed cords, clean the important front end area daily to
assure good electrical contact. Be sure the blade is clean and in good condition at all times.

Bulletin 281-145 Page Two
EFFECTS OF EXCESSIVE HEAT IN BEAK TRIMMING: The costliest error in beak trimming is the use of excessive
or prolonged heat, especially when doing severe beak trimming. The heated blade is primarily used to cut
the beak and sear the surface to stop bleeding. The application of too much heat may result in a ball like
growth on the beak that is tender. This can be painful to the bird when eating and drinking and cause the
bird's death. Never use more heat than necessary to do the job.
ABOUT BLEEDERS: BLEEDING AFTER BEAK TRIMMING DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN BLADE
TEMPERATURE WAS TOO LOW. Some birds naturally bleed as the result of trauma, however, some
bleeding is better than unnecessary and excessive burning. There are other factors that can cause bleeding.
If the bird is under stress prior to beak trimming its blood pressure will be higher. Some avian medication will
thin the blood and contribute to bleeding. It is a good idea to check with your veterinarian regarding this and
seek his advice relative to removal of medication for a period prior to beak trimming. Also, consider giving
the birds vitamin K for a couple of days prior to beak trimming to reduce bleeding potential. Water intake
could possibly raise blood pressure thus contributing to bleeding, do not allow the birds to drink water 1-2
hours prior to beak trimming. Consultation with a good veterinarian is advised and the period of water restriction
might vary for different species of birds.
BEAK TRIMMING DAY-OLD QUAIL
BEAK TRIMMING DAY-OLD QUAIL: This method of beak trimming
was developed by H.R. Wilson, M.G. Miller and C.R. Douglas at the
Poultry Science Department, University of Florida whose permission
to print this method is gratefully acknowledged. This method involves
the use of a plain, slightly red hot flat blade on the Debeaker® (K or
KH Blade). The chick's head is held so that the tongue will be pulled
back into the mouth. (Using the forefinger to apply a SLIGHT pressure
to the throat helps, but not enough to cause the lower beak to be
withdrawn.) The head is held level and the beak pointed squarely
and directly at the blade. The beak is quickly touched to the hot
blade and burned so that most or all of the lighter colored tip of the
upper beak is burned. Both beaks are seared approximately 1/4 of
the beak length. If the egg tooth is present prior to trimming, only
about .5mm of it will remain after this operation. This will result in a
smaller amount of the lower beak being trimmed, with both beaks
ending at the same length. If the beak is held to the blade too long,
blisters may occur; or the chick may in some cases breathe the hot
super heated air around the blade causing respiratory damage.
Remember that a Quail chick has the capability of moving the upper
beak to some extent and will pull it down resulting in a disproportionate
burning of the lower beak. This method works well and results in a
permanently shortened beak (this shortening will not be obvious to
the untrained eye). Observation throughout the bird's growth will
illustrate how debeaked birds look at all stages of growth.
QUAIL UPPER BEAK REMOVAL
QUAIL UPPER BEAK REMOVAL: This method uses the Lyon IR-Game
Bird Attachment to remove a portion of the bird's upper beak. At 6
weeks of age when the birds are moved to the grow-out pen, remove
1/3 of the upper beak. If pecking is a problem at an earlier stage and
you do not wish to use the touch-sear method described above, you
can remove 1/16" (the upper bill hook) at an earlier date. The bird
should be at least three weeks old before upper beak removal is
accomplished. Prior to three weeks of age the beak will not be long
enough to properly trim and cauterize. If the bird's beak is trimmed
by this method too early, beak regrowth will almost always require
touch up trimming later.

Bulletin 281-145 Page Three
CHUKAR PARTRIDGE: Chukars are normally not beak trimmed as
chicks. If pecking becomes a serious problem prior to the normal
time to beak trim, growers often remove only 1/16" or the hook on
the upper beak. Chukars are most commonly beak trimmed at 8
weeks of age when they are moved to grow-out pens. Approximately
1/2 of the upper beak is removed. It may be done again just before
they go into the laying season.
Sometimes a small percentage of Chukars will have problems from
beak trimming. The beaks will grow back crooked or extra long and
require a touch up trim. Also, should the upper beak grow back as a
hook over the lower beak the upper must be clipped so the bird can
eat and drink comfortably.
PHEASANT BEAK TRIMMING: Notch beak trimming of Pheasant
chicks at day-old can be a very effective tool in reducing pecking for
the first 3 to 5 weeks of age. There are 2 ways to notch Debeak.
One way is to use a BHT Attachment with an IRXW blade on the
Debeaker® with a foot pedal or power unit. The height screws are
adjusted so that the notch is 1/4 to 1/3 back on the beak and notches
through to a depth 2/3 of the beak.
The other method of notching is to use a Debeaker® with the height
of the blade fixed so it doesn’t move and a standard beak support.
The height of the blade is fixed at a point so that when the beak is
gently pushed into the space between the blade and the beak support
the beak has a burned notch 1/3 back from the point of the beak to
a depth of 2/3 of the upper beak thickness. When beaks are properly
notched the end will fall off in 6 to 14 days. If severe notching is done
too far back on the bird it may be permanently debeaked.
When Pheasants are 8-10 weeks old, they are beak trimmed again
by removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the upper beak only. The IR-GB Game Bird
Attachment is used for this beak trimming.
Flight birds should never be severely beak trimmed as they may be
unable to forage for themselves in the wild. Try to obtain upper beak
growth back to a point that both upper and lower beaks are at least
the same length before releasing them as flight birds.
In the past there has been a method used to beak trim chicks when
they are one day old by touching the upper beak against a flat K or
KH blade on the Debeaker®. Both upper and lower beaks are seared
about 1/4 of the way from the tip. Care should be exercised using
this method to not over sear the beak. Also, make sure the beak trim
operation is done quickly to protect the bird from inhaling super heated
air radiating from the blade.
PHEASANT PRECISION BLOCK DEBEAKING: (See illustration on
page 4) Some producers have been block debeaking (beak trimming)
breeders. This is done in the same manner that precision block
debeaking of chickens is done (between 6-10 days old). The
forefinger is used to slightly withdraw the lower beak and tongue.
When the beak trimming is done, the lower beak will be slightly longer
than the upper beak.

Bulletin 281-145 Page Four
PHEASANT PRECISION BLOCK DEBEAKING:
(CONTINUED) While this method is unproven at this
time, if successful, it would be a one time permanent
beak trim such as on layer chickens. The savings in
less stress and labor costs for additional beak
trimming would be significant. For full information on
6-10 Precision Block Debeaking of layer chicks, send
for our Bulletin number: 281-119.
DUCK DEBILLING: Feather pulling causing loss of pin
feathers, bloody wing tips and scratched backs are a
problem in raising ducks. Proper bill trimming can
overcome this. Two types of debilling are used and
both are summarized below.
DAY-OLD DEBILLING: The BHT Attachment (Catalog
Number 940-006) is used on the Debeaker® for this
method of debilling. The height adjustment screws on
the attachment are adjusted to allow the duck's upper
and lower bill to be placed on the beak support tube.
The heat of the blade is adjusted to a dull red color (in a
subdued light). The upper and lower bill are not allowed
to separate. Slight pressure under the lower beak using
the forefinger may be necessary. The closed bill is placed
on the beak support and moved forward into contact with
the blade. The area seared is on the UPPER BEAK ONLY
and includes the nail or bean and extends to the tip of
the upper bill. If trouble is experienced in clean removal
of the nail, tilt the head down slightly to finish the
operation. While high rates of production are possible
using this method, close attention to a proper searing of
the upper bill area is necessary. Failure to properly sear
and remove the nail completely will defeat the purpose
and negate the higher rates of production advantage.
DEBILLING AT 3 DAYS OF AGE: Debilling at 3 days is
done using a cutting blade on the Debeaker®. The
Debeaker® may be foot pedal operated or operated by
a Pow-R-Pak Power Unit using a “Hen” cam. When ducks
are debilled at 3 days of age they are slightly debilled
with only 1/2 of the upper nail being removed. Bill
regrowth will usually reoccur using this method.
DEBILLING AT 7 DAYS OF AGE: Tests in past years
tend to prove that severe debilling at 7 days of age is
the most effective way to reduce feather pulling,
scratching, etc. The Debeaker® uses a cutting type
blade and may be foot or power unit operated as in 3
day old debilling. The cut is made about 3/4 of the way
back on the nail as shown in the illustration. Ducks
debilled in this manner will rarely have the bill grow back
completely in less than 7 weeks.