issue 54 - AsiaLIFE Magazine

imbibe
street gourmet
Wine-Food Pairings, Asian Edition
By Darryl Bethea
I got schooled in the magic of
pairing a dish with the perfect
wine in Northern California.
Typically we would consider
the protein, sauces, and dominant
flavours, then find the
appropriate wine that would
compliment and elevate the
experience.
But in Vietnamese or any
Asian dining, the ordering
of meals is not usually an
individual choice. It is more like
a little of this and that for all to
share, and the flavours can run
all over the map. Soy sauce
(with or without chilli), wasabi,
fish sauce, and sweet and
sour sauce all have their own
flavour profiles. And at one
meal sitting, you can experience
them all.
To describe wine on the palate,
we talk about the 'mouth
feel', the physical sensation
a food or drink creates. Tofu,
sushi, steamed shellfish, curry,
and fried foods all have the
their own 'mouth feel'. Get the
pairing wrong (too fatty, oily, or
dry), and the dining experience
becomes flawed. So what can
we do?
Stay away from wines with
high tannins, whose bitterness
and dryness in the mouth may
dominate and interfere with
seafood. Also, if a red wine is
high in alcohol, it will intensify
the spiciness and result in a
fire in your mouth, destroying
your taste buds.
As a simple guide, seek
wines with excellent acidity,
wines that will have a refreshing,
palate-cleansing quality
that either compliments or
stands up to the bold flavours.
Keep in mind, a lot of
traditional Asian beverages are
not consumed to compliment
the food. Many times, green
tea comes at the end of the
meal to aid digestion. When it
comes to wine, consider the
following:
Sparkling wine like Champagne
or Brut Prosecco. It
will not overpower the food, is
low in alcohol, and has great
acidity. Just stay away from
anything with an oaky flavour
profile. Dim sum and sparkling
wine is divine!
Off-dry Riesling. The crisp
acidity combined with the
slightly sweet impression at
first taste will combat the
spiciness of chilli. The key here
is off-dry, from Germany or
Washington state.
Pinot Noir with a medium
body, and a light, fruity aroma
and taste. Be careful not to get
a high-alcohol, tannic variety
from the New World. Look
for one that has a description
of good acidity, with round,
smooth tannins.
Darryl Bethea is Group Sales
Manager for Fine Wines of the
World (09 3378 5005) and is
a certified sommelier from the
Court of the Master Sommeliers.
Contact Darryl at 09
3378 5005 or email Darryl@
finewinesasia.com.
Banh bo dua
At first glance, it's easy
to mistake banh bo dua
for a tart, mini quiche or
even a knish. But take a
bite and you'll know you're
eating classic street food.
The outside is made from
two thin pieces of baked
wheat flour that fit over
each other, and the filling
is a mixture of shredded
sonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in
private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30
pm, delivery available on request.
Zen
20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782
Located amid the sea of Japanese
restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen
offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.
The yakitori station grills up fantastic
steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled
udon noodles are also a standout.
KOREAN
25 Si
8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1
Tel: 3824 6921
Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.
Winter and summer scene murals fill the
walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu
with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli
paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well
as super spicy duruchigi.
Hana
8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588
Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart
of District 1. Contemporary decor with
a private, yet open feel. Broad menu
including cooked and raw fish and
traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and
vegetables.
Kim Bab Chun Gook
R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung
Tel: 6296 9057
Korean boonshik/snack food eatery
serving up a wide variety of light but
substantial foods including dumplings,
rameyon and fish cakes.
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Baan Thai
55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453
If you have been missing the delights of
Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant
coconut, lentils and sugar.
To eat this chewy, sweet
treat simply slice it up
and serve or remove the
baked wheat covering to
enjoy the coconut mixture
directly. Banh bo dua is
served warm and can be
found around town all
day. A serving costs VND
5,000.
and bar should be for you. The Thai
chefs whip up all the traditional dishes
you know and love, while in the bar there
are a host of drinks and activities to help
while away an evening.
Lac Thai
71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506
An elegant restaurant tucked in an
alleyway and decorated with art-deco
furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared
by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less
spicy than you’d find in Thailand.
Little Manila
S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7
Tel: 5410 0812
Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor
and indoor seating located on a quiet
street. Serves a range of dishes from the
Philippines (pictured on menu for those
unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.
Thai Express
8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338
www.thaiexpress.vn
Modern restaurant with a massive menu
of Thai specialties served in moderate
proportions. The menu inludes chef’s
recommendations and background on
Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will
test your tongue’s threshold.
VEGETARIAN
Hoa Dang
38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1
Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet
street that serves up nutritious dishes,
including meatless versions of bun bo,
pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving
non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other
sweets.
Saigon Vegan
378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473
Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive
menu of healthy food at moderate prices.
58 asialife HCMC