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Wine Production : Vine to Bottle - Vinum Vine

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58<br />

WINE PRODUCTION<br />

fermentation takes. Accordingly, managing the temperature can be<br />

quite a tricky exercise. A winemaker may decide <strong>to</strong> start a vat fairly<br />

cool, at say 20 °C, and allow it <strong>to</strong> rise naturally <strong>to</strong> around 30 °C <strong>to</strong><br />

aid extraction. In the latter stages, the vat may be cooled <strong>to</strong> 25 °C or<br />

so, <strong>to</strong> ensure complete fermentation <strong>to</strong> dryness. In the cool<br />

underground cellars of regions like Burgundy, the temperature of<br />

small vats or barrels can be self-regulating. Cooling equipment<br />

may be required for larger vats. <strong>Wine</strong> can be pumped through heat<br />

exchangers <strong>to</strong> reduce (or increase) temperature. Stainless steel<br />

tanks are now commonly wrapped with water or glycol cooling<br />

jackets. Alternatively, they may be cooled by showers of cold water<br />

running down the outside. In concrete or wooden vats a metal cooling<br />

device (drapeau) can be inserted or built in.<br />

9.3.3 Extraction<br />

The traditional process for red wines is for the grape mass <strong>to</strong><br />

be fermented in open vats. The solids and skins rise <strong>to</strong> the surface<br />

with the CO 2 and create a floating cap. This is a disadvantage<br />

because the skins need <strong>to</strong> be in contact with the juice for there <strong>to</strong><br />

be good extraction of colour and tannins. Also, acetic bacteria<br />

thrive in such a warm, moist environment, risking spoilage of the<br />

juice.<br />

Consequently, during the process, the juice is drawn out from near<br />

the bot<strong>to</strong>m of the vat and pumped up and sprayed over the cap <strong>to</strong><br />

submerge it. This process, known as remontage, has the additional<br />

benefit of aerating the must, which helps <strong>to</strong> boost the yeast colonies.<br />

This technique of pigeage, simply punching down the cap, is used<br />

for some varieties, particularly Pinot Noir which needs a very gentle<br />

extraction process. Although vats can now be fitted with mechanical<br />

pigeage equipment, in many wineries submerging the cap is done by<br />

hand with wooden paddles, sticks, or even the feet of the cellar staff<br />

precariously suspended over the fermentation vats.<br />

9.4 Maceration<br />

Depending on the style required, the wine may be left <strong>to</strong> soak<br />

with the skins after completion of the alcoholic fermentation, until

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