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Technical Questions and Answers about Gold <strong>Wing</strong>s and Valkyries<br />

1998 GL1500 SE with<br />

Symp<strong>to</strong>ms <strong>of</strong> Vapor Lock<br />

I bought a Black Gold <strong>Wing</strong> SE new in<br />

1998. It now has 128,000 miles on the odometer.<br />

I think I have a unique problem. Neither I,<br />

nor any dealer, has been able <strong>to</strong> figure it out<br />

yet. The Gold <strong>Wing</strong> runs great normally.<br />

However, when the temperature gets above 97<br />

degrees Fahrenheit the mo<strong>to</strong>r begins <strong>to</strong> sputter,<br />

and it acts like it’s only running on two or three<br />

cylinders until it quits all <strong>to</strong>gether. In cooler<br />

weather the Gold <strong>Wing</strong> runs great. Once I pull<br />

<strong>to</strong> the side <strong>of</strong> the road and sit there for a few<br />

minutes it seems <strong>to</strong> run okay for another 30 <strong>to</strong><br />

40 miles or so—then it repeats the symp<strong>to</strong>ms.<br />

I have found that if I <strong>to</strong>p <strong>of</strong>f the fuel tank, it<br />

recovers right away and will run until the fuel<br />

gauge begins <strong>to</strong> drop, then it repeats the sputtering<br />

and dying.<br />

I have already replaced the timing belts and<br />

the au<strong>to</strong>matic fuel shut <strong>of</strong>f valve. The fuel filter<br />

and air cleaners have also been replaced<br />

without correcting the problem. The problem<br />

also seems <strong>to</strong> be more prevalent at altitudes<br />

above 3500 feet above sea level. I’m considering<br />

having all the vacuum lines replaced and<br />

the carbure<strong>to</strong>rs cleaned or rebuilt. The fuel cap<br />

vent line is also clear. It has the symp<strong>to</strong>ms <strong>of</strong> a<br />

vapor lock on some <strong>of</strong> the older 1960 vehicles<br />

I drove as a teenager.<br />

Any suggestions you have <strong>to</strong> steer me <strong>to</strong> the<br />

right fix will be greatly appreciated. I love the<br />

bike and love riding, but this problem is very<br />

frustrating when I’m in the middle <strong>of</strong> the<br />

desert somewhere limping along until the<br />

weather cools down.<br />

Scott Hamil<strong>to</strong>n<br />

GWRRA #115647<br />

Anaheim, California<br />

Answers <strong>to</strong> the technical questions in this month’s “Workbench” were provided by<br />

Stu Oltman, <strong>Wing</strong> <strong>World</strong>’s Senior Technical Edi<strong>to</strong>r. Please submit your technical questions<br />

about Gold <strong>Wing</strong>s or Valkyries by e-mail <strong>to</strong> workbench@gwrra.org or by mail <strong>to</strong><br />

“Workbench,” GWRRA, 21423 North 11th Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85027. Please include<br />

your full name, city, state and GWRRA membership number.<br />

Scott, I’ve seen this exact set <strong>of</strong> symp<strong>to</strong>ms<br />

several times, and it drove me nuts—until one<br />

day I connected an oscilloscope <strong>to</strong> the fuel<br />

pump wire on one <strong>of</strong> the miscreant bikes and<br />

observed the <strong>current</strong> flow as the bike warmed<br />

<strong>to</strong> full operating temperature. As the gasoline<br />

in the fuel tank absorbed engine heat, that particular<br />

fuel pump (it’s inside the tank) began <strong>to</strong><br />

draw more <strong>current</strong> and behave erratically,<br />

then it quit al<strong>to</strong>gether. Functionally, the bike<br />

was running out <strong>of</strong> fuel, even though the tank<br />

was half full.<br />

Topping up the tank with cooler fuel<br />

reduced the pump’s temperature, at which<br />

point it began working again. A new pump<br />

resolved the <strong>issue</strong>. Because this was a heatrelated<br />

failure, it was naturally more likely <strong>to</strong><br />

occur in warm weather and also as the fuel<br />

level in the tank dropped—less fuel warmed<br />

more quickly and <strong>to</strong> a higher temperature.<br />

The first thing I suggest you try is <strong>to</strong> actually<br />

remove the fuel cap when the symp<strong>to</strong>ms<br />

occur <strong>to</strong> eliminate the possibility <strong>of</strong> a plugged<br />

vent valve. If that doesn’t provide any relief,<br />

and considering the things you’ve already<br />

tried, my hunch is that replacing your fuel<br />

pump will be more productive than replacement<br />

<strong>of</strong> all the vacuum hoses and a complete<br />

carbure<strong>to</strong>r overhaul; carb faults and vacuum<br />

hose leaks don’t come and go as a result <strong>of</strong><br />

ambient temperature, fuel level, or short rest<br />

periods.<br />

Sticking GL1800 Starter Mo<strong>to</strong>r<br />

My bike’s problem was that the starter<br />

mo<strong>to</strong>r locked in during a ride and wouldn’t<br />

unlock even when the key was turned <strong>of</strong>f, and<br />

neither would the lights or the ignition turn <strong>of</strong>f.<br />

It burned up the starter mo<strong>to</strong>r and I replaced<br />

the starter; so far, the problem hasn’t reappeared,<br />

but I’m uneasy. The cost <strong>of</strong> the starter<br />

mo<strong>to</strong>r was $567 plus shipping!<br />

Trence McCoy<br />

GWRRA #156551<br />

Shreveport, Louisiana<br />

Trence, your problem occurred when the<br />

contacts in your starter solenoid stuck <strong>to</strong>gether.<br />

That resulted in a direct connection<br />

between the battery and the starter, even without<br />

the start but<strong>to</strong>n pressed. And turning <strong>of</strong>f<br />

the key provides no relief, because this connection<br />

no longer relies on the solenoid being<br />

electrically activated. Once this happens, that<br />

solenoid is prone <strong>to</strong> do the same thing again,<br />

so I’d advise you <strong>to</strong> replace the solenoid (A) <strong>to</strong><br />

avoid burning up another starter.<br />

Intermittent Starter But<strong>to</strong>n<br />

Recently, during cold or hot start-ups, the<br />

starter on my ’99 GL1500 Aspencade, with<br />

33k miles, doesn’t catch when I hit the but<strong>to</strong>n.<br />

When I release it, there is a click as though it<br />

almost engaged. Five or six more tries and she<br />

fires up. It might happen <strong>to</strong>day, or not for a<br />

couple <strong>of</strong> days. Is this somewhat common and<br />

fixable with my average mechanical skills, or<br />

is it better left <strong>to</strong> the pros You do us all a<br />

great service. Keep up the great work!<br />

Reggie Sheppard<br />

GWRRA #181012<br />

Pompano Beach, Florida<br />

Reggie, the clicking when you release the<br />

start but<strong>to</strong>n tells me the but<strong>to</strong>n is okay. And<br />

the fact that it fires right up after a few stabs<br />

at the but<strong>to</strong>n indicates that your battery most<br />

likely isn’t the culprit, either.<br />

My hunch is that the main contacts in your<br />

starter relay A or relay B are either burned or<br />

dirty, and banging them <strong>to</strong>gether several<br />

times using the start but<strong>to</strong>n cleans a new path<br />

for <strong>current</strong> flow. However, you may be hearing<br />

only one <strong>of</strong> these two relays click. Check the<br />

connections at the red connec<strong>to</strong>r for relay A<br />

and the white connec<strong>to</strong>r for relay B, and feel<br />

each relay with your hand as someone else<br />

presses your start but<strong>to</strong>n. Each relay should<br />

click. If each does, and if you can get that <strong>to</strong><br />

happen without the starter engaging, have<br />

your assistant continue holding the start but<strong>to</strong>n<br />

while you test for the presence <strong>of</strong> battery<br />

voltage between each <strong>of</strong> the two nuts on the<br />

relays and a good chassis ground point. If you<br />

find voltage at only one nut on either <strong>of</strong> those<br />

relays, you’ve found the culprit—replace that<br />

relay.<br />

GL1800 CB Problem<br />

I own a 2004 Gold <strong>Wing</strong> and have had CB<br />

problems since it was new. Occasionally when<br />

I transmit, I get cut <strong>of</strong>f before my transmission<br />

is complete. The dealer replaced the<br />

entire radio unit and the system worked fine<br />

for about a year.<br />

Last summer I noticed it was doing it<br />

again. My wife has the push-<strong>to</strong>-talk but<strong>to</strong>n<br />

added and I had her try transmitting, which<br />

worked fine, so the problem seems <strong>to</strong> be with<br />

my transmit only.<br />

Continued on page 32.<br />

28 <strong>Wing</strong> <strong>World</strong>

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