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Electric Shifting For Your Honda Mo<strong>to</strong>rcycle<br />

Footless Shifting<br />

with <strong>to</strong>uch <strong>of</strong><br />

a but<strong>to</strong>n.<br />

Easy<br />

<strong>to</strong> install!<br />

Now for GL1800 Gold <strong>Wing</strong><br />

Adaptive Mo<strong>to</strong>rcycling LLC • PO Box 36 • S<strong>to</strong>ckholm, WI 54769<br />

See it in action at: www.adaptivemo<strong>to</strong>rcycling.com • stump@cannon.net • 715-442-2069 SUMMER<br />

Power Memory Problem<br />

When I would turn my 1995 GL1500’s<br />

radio on, the stations would all reset back <strong>to</strong><br />

AM, and the clock would also reset back <strong>to</strong><br />

1:00. When I turned the power <strong>of</strong>f for a few<br />

minutes, everything would be retained in<br />

memory, but if I left the power <strong>of</strong>f longer, then<br />

turned the radio back on, the radio would reset<br />

back <strong>to</strong> AM, the clock back <strong>to</strong> 1:00 and the<br />

memory would not retain my [preset] FM stations<br />

in memory. I pulled the radio and found<br />

a white with blue strip wire in the plug harness.<br />

It is supposed <strong>to</strong> be always hot, but it was<br />

actually dead. This would be the power wire<br />

for retaining the memory.<br />

I checked my fuses on the left side bike<br />

fuse box and could see no blown fuses.<br />

Butch Stidam<br />

GWRRA #128020<br />

Valparaiso, Indiana<br />

I have figured the problem out that caused<br />

the memory loss. It was the fuse. Below is the<br />

technique I used. Feel free <strong>to</strong> pass it on <strong>to</strong> others.<br />

Fuse #13 Removal<br />

Fuse #13 (5A), located in the relay box, is<br />

a backup fuse which controls the trunk light,<br />

vanity mirror light switch, trunk light switch,<br />

CB Memory, radio/cassette input and the<br />

clock memory.<br />

It is possible <strong>to</strong> replace Fuse #13 without<br />

removing the left saddlebag. The way <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong><br />

the fuse is <strong>to</strong> remove the fuse box itself. Just<br />

remove both bolts (<strong>to</strong>p & bot<strong>to</strong>m) and pull the<br />

box out.<br />

—Butch<br />

Fuse #13 is a pain <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> due <strong>to</strong> the saddlebag<br />

being partially in the way <strong>of</strong> removing<br />

the relay box lid, but I don’t remember having<br />

<strong>to</strong> remove either the bag or the relay box <strong>to</strong> do<br />

this job. But if it makes the job easier, who am<br />

I <strong>to</strong> argue<br />

1975 GL1000 Lights<br />

I have a 1975 GL1000 that I just bought for<br />

my collection. The only thing wrong with it is<br />

the headlight. All <strong>of</strong> the other lights work fine<br />

when you turn the key on. When I take a hot<br />

wire and <strong>to</strong>uch the 10-amp fuse with it, the<br />

light works fine. The dimmer switch works<br />

fine. Also the check light is really dim at that<br />

time. The neutral light stays on really dim<br />

when in gear. Bright in neutral is as it should<br />

be. Could the problem be in the switch key I<br />

have been reading your column for many<br />

years and learned a lot. Thanks in advance.<br />

Bobby Taylor<br />

GWRRA #141579<br />

Murchison, Texas<br />

Bobby, you’ll find four brown plug-in<br />

36 <strong>Wing</strong> <strong>World</strong>

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