11.01.2015 Views

download baltimore instruction manual

download baltimore instruction manual

download baltimore instruction manual

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

8. Deck Lockers<br />

There are five deck lockers which are simple boxes.<br />

One has a set of doors. It contains propane tanks.<br />

Like the vent boxes, these boxes do not have built-in<br />

coamings. All the lockers are complete boxes (have<br />

their own bottoms), but are permanently secured to<br />

the deck with bolts and in the locations shown on the<br />

plans. Some of the boxes have rope handles on the<br />

ends. Sometimes the boxes are removed from their<br />

locations during repairs, so the handles are used to<br />

lift the boxes. I suspect these boxes were also an afterthought<br />

following construction.<br />

A typical box is shown (see figure 37). It can be made<br />

from strip wood or a solid block with a sheet top.<br />

These boxes are small. 1/32”-thick basswood is<br />

included in the kit for their construction. Notice that<br />

some of the boxes have feet, so they are raised slightly.<br />

Some of the lockers have mahogany tops and others<br />

are painted. Follow the plans for the colors.<br />

9. Samson Post & Bitts<br />

The samson post (double) at the bow; and the port<br />

and starboard bitts aft, should be made from wood as<br />

shown (see figure 38). The inboard end of the<br />

bowsprit will fit between the samson posts. For locating<br />

the bitts, you could also cut a square hole in the<br />

deck and insert the bitts rather than using the dowel<br />

pins shown in the figure. Other bitts are described<br />

under fife rails.<br />

10. Windlass & Chain Pipes<br />

The windlass barrel with quadrants, windlass pawl,<br />

pump and bracket, are all Britannia fittings. The riding<br />

bitts with knees for the windlass are provided<br />

laser-cut. A small hole must be drilled in the windlass<br />

quadrants and pump handle brackets. The connecting<br />

links should be made from brass wire.<br />

The windlass fitting in the kit does not have any<br />

whelps (projecting ribs) on its barrel. On the real<br />

ship, there are twelve very thin whelps on the windlass<br />

barrel’s starboard side, for handling an anchor<br />

rope. On its port side, every other whelp is a larger<br />

one to handle anchor chain. If you want to add the<br />

whelps to the kit fitting, glue on small slivers of<br />

wood. However, with rope or chain wrapped around<br />

the barrel, you can’t see the whelps very well so they<br />

could be omitted.<br />

To set the windlass, drill a hole in the bottom of each<br />

bitt and add a locating pin. Drill holes in the deck and<br />

glue the windlass in place (see figure 39). The chain<br />

pipes are supplied as Britannia fittings. On the real<br />

ship the chain pipe has a removable cap and a hole in<br />

the side where the chain comes out with the cap in<br />

place. The model fitting has no hole, so the chain<br />

must be glued to the side of the chain pipe to simulate<br />

that it actually goes inside the pipe. You could<br />

also drill a hole in the fitting or substitute a piece of<br />

brass tubing and run the chain down the tube.<br />

11. Catheads & Anchors<br />

The catheads and stowage of the anchors is shown on<br />

the plans. The anchors are supplied as Britannia fittings.<br />

Fit chain on the port side. Bring the chain in<br />

through the hawse pipe, around the windlass, and<br />

down the chain pipe directly aft of the windlass barrel.<br />

The starboard side should have a rope instead of chain.<br />

24

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!