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7. Studding Sails Bend the stunsail to the stunsail yard with lacing similar to the gaffs. The halliard should go through a block on the topsail yard. Notice on plan sheet 6 that the stunsail tack goes to deck at the aft cavel when in use. If no stunsail is installed, the tack line is knotted off at the block, and the running end of the line is coiled up and stowed on the topsail yard. When the sail is omitted, the yard also should be eliminated. The halliard can be knotted off at the block, or you should drop the yard to the deck on the halliard. Then remove the yard and belay the halliard somewhere along the shrouds at the rail. This latter scheme is possible, but will look somewhat awkward on the model. It is preferable to knot off the halliard at topside. With no sails rigged, the stunsail boom is shoved in toward the mast. 8. Fore Topgallant Sail The topgallant yard has no jackstays, so the sail should be bent to the yard by a lacing similar to the gaff lacing for the foresail. The sheets reeve through a block at the end of the topsail yard and belay to a cleat on the topsail yard yoke instead of going all the way down to the deck. The yard has no braces. The sail should fly freely, held by the halliard and sheets. If sails are omitted, the topgallant yard should come off and you should stow it on the port bulwarks. 9. Miscellaneous Rigging Anchor Burton: The anchor burton is shown on sheet 6 in its stowed position on the forward side of the foremast. It should be hooked into an eyebolt just above the mast cleats. Flag Halliards & Flags: Position flag halliards at each topmast pole, at crosstrees, and on the main gaff, and main boom topping lift. They should be single lines that you reeve through very small metal blocks. The flags are detailed on plan sheet 6. They are an American flag, Pride of Baltimore II pennant, Maryland flag, and City of Baltimore flag. The real ship flies the American flag on the gaff or topping lift halliard. The halliard on the topping lift is used when the ship is in port and the gaff is down. On her maiden voyage, the ship flew a 15-star, 15-stripe flag. It is a replica of the flag that flew over Fort McHenry during the war of 1812 and inspired Sir Francis Scott Key to write the Star Spangled Banner. This flag is still flown today. Never is a modern flag flown. If you decide to add the flags and pennants, you can make them from light weight cotton cloth and paint the colors on with acrylics. Acrylic paint is fairly flexible. Paper can also be used. Shape the paper before installing the flags so that they hang as naturally as a flag might. Gantlines: The gantlines are single lines rove through single blocks at topside. Both ends of the lines are belayed together. These simple tackle are used to hoist the ship’s boat or anything else, such as deck equipment and cargo. Plan sheet 6 shows the locations and details of the six gantlines. Main Stay Hauling Tackle: The ship has two mainstays with a runner at the forward end. When sailing, one mainstay is left loose so it will not be in the way of the foresail. The dead weight of the loose stay pulls it back toward the main mast. To get the stay out toward the bulwarks, a small tackle is fitted port and star- 42
oard on the main shrouds. The details of this tackle and the stowage method are shown on plan sheet 6. 10. Final Touches After all the rigging is in place, recheck every line, and make sure all the seizings are sound. If necessary, add another touch of super glue to seizings. Check to see if there are any shiny places on the rig. If necessary, touch up the standing rigging with black paint, or black liquid shoe polish. For running rigging, use a tan stain, or brown liquid shoe polish. Check to see if you have fouled any of the painted wooden parts during the rigging process and make repairs as necessary. Congratulations––you’ve done it! Your model is completed and we hope you like the results. If this was your first effort, and you’re less than happy, remember that it is only through repeated experience that your level of skill will develop. Subsequent models can only get better! We look forward to helping you with your next ship modeling project. Area of bowsprit showing gammoning at the stem. Dolphin striker & guy spreaders on bowsprit View of main mast cap, topmast & yards. Ship’s name on port side of bow. View of ship at stern. 43
Page 1: The Baltimore Clipper PRIDE OF BALT
Page 5 and 6: (Continued from cover) It was as a
Page 7 and 8: BEFORE YOU BEGIN The Pride of Balti
Page 9 and 10: Before painting the cast-metal fitt
Page 11 and 12: 4. Installing the Keel/Stem & Stern
Page 13 and 14: Glue the two-piece planksheer toget
Page 15 and 16: 4. Spiling Edge-bending planks on a
Page 17 and 18: Laying the Planks in Belt A: Each b
Page 19 and 20: The top 3/64” plank should contin
Page 21 and 22: STAGE D MOUNTING THE HULL Before co
Page 23 and 24: The steering wheel on the actual Pr
Page 25 and 26: 12. Pin Rails The pin rails at the
Page 27 and 28: 23. Props & Struts The props have b
Page 29 and 30: STAGE F MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION At
Page 31 and 32: Cleats: Finally, add the cleats aro
Page 33 and 34: STAGE G GENERAL RIGGING & SAILMAKIN
Page 35 and 36: Rigging lines belayed to fore mast
Page 37 and 38: piece of scrap cloth and set the te
Page 39 and 40: 4. Fore & Aft Stays Install the for
Page 41: 5. Main Gaff Staysail Add all the n
Page 47 and 48: MODELER'S LOG Date Time Notes MODEL

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