WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2013

WINE DINE& 

TRAVELFALL 2013 

PREMIERE ISSUE 

AMSTERDAM 

The Windmills of Zaanse Schans 

The Anne Frank House 

NEW CALEDONIA 

COLORADO FOOD DUDES 

WALKING HADRIAN’S WALL 

GUADALUPE VALLEY WINE COUNTRY 

GREAT DESTINATIONS : TRULY GRAND 

THE WIZARD OF ADDISON 

winedineandtravel.com | 1

COVER PHOTO: While walking around central Amsterdam we came across this powerful scene of majestic buildings 

flanking one of the major canal transit hubs used mostly for tour boats. I took this and the other photos in the Amsterdam feature 

section with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS8 camera . - Ron James 

NEXT EDITION | WINTER 2013 

SPECIAL SECTION 

Wine Dine & Travel Fall 2013 | 2 

Essential London 

London for Foodies 

Chelsea Flower Show 

Steam Trains of Wales 

Exploring England’s Isles of Scilly 

Attending Oxford U on My Vacation 

Henry VIII’s Hampton Court 

+ PANAMA CANAL CRUISING, LAS CALETAS: JOHN HUSTON’S PRIVATE 

HIDEAWAY, UTAH’S SAWTOOTH MOUNTAINS, READER PHOTOS & MORE

WELCOME 

RON JAMES 

publisher/executive editor 

Ron James is the "wine and food guy." 

He is an award-winning veteran food 

and wine journalist., television producer 

and radio personality. He began his 

journalism career in 1973 and pioneered 

online media beginning in 1994 

with the first major online city publication, 

San Diego Magazine. He helped 

found Time Warner's Road Runner 

network and led the San Diego Union- 

Tribune's online editorial efforts for 

nearly a decade. The native Californian's 

nationally syndicated wine and food 

columns have appeared in newspapers 

and magazines around the world. 

He is passionate about great wine and 

food and enthusiastically enjoys them 

every day! 

MARY JAMES 

publisher/editor 

Mary Hellman James is an awardwinning 

San Diego journalist and 

editor. After a 29-year-career with the 

San Diego Union-Tribune, including 13 

years as Home and Garden editor, James 

currently is a freelance garden writer 

and a columnist for San Diego Home- 

Garden/Lifestyles magazine. She also is 

executive editor of California Garden, the 

award-winning 102-year-old magazine 

published by the San Diego Floral Association. 

She and her husband, Ron 

James, travel extensively. Upcoming this 

year is a Canada - New England -- New 

York cruise and a five-week stay in India 

and Nepal. 

Welcome to the premiere edition of Wine Dine 

& Travel magazine - written and published 

by veteran professional journalists who have 

a passion for travel and great food. Our goal 

is to enlighten and entertain readers and travelers who delight in 

exploring our planet. 

WD&T is a logical extension of our award-winning-regional online 

magazine Wine & Dine San Diego. We will continue to cover Southern 

California and the West Coast, but have extended our editorial horizons 

globally. 

WD&T will publish quarterly, mainly because everyone involved in this 

project travels – a lot. So two months travel and one month production 

seems quite civilized to us. The website, www.winedineandtravel. 

com, however, will be updated regularly with real-time coverage of 

our travel and culinary adventures. 

Our magazine is free on all 

platforms through our online 

distribution partners. There are 

also special free apps for iPad 

and iPhone. But for many, print is 

still the gold standard. Our technology 

partner MagCloud offers 

an innovative print process that 

delivers our readers a glossy, 

perfect-bound magazine - just 

like the ones on newsstands. 

We feel this broad distribution 

strategy serves our readers best 

for this time of sweeping technological 

and social change. 

In the end, neither technology nor distribution will make us successful. 

Readers will buy the magazine or read the digital version because 

of the quality of the stories and features. We couldn’t deliver that 

without our great contributors – friends and journalistic colleagues 

who are award-winning, experienced and expert travel, food and wine 

writers. (Learn more about them all on the next page.) 

We hope you enjoy our new magazine and will consider it to be a 

valued resource in planning your journeys. Like travel, publishing is an 

adventure - and we hope you enjoy the ride as much as we do. 

Ron & Mary James 


MEET OUR WD&T CONTRIBUTORS 

Alison DaRosa 

Alison DaRosa is a six-time winner of the Lowell Thomas Gold Award for travel writing, the most prestigious 

prize in travel journalism. She served 15 years as Travel Editor of the San Diego Union-Tribune. She 

was the award-winning editor of the San Diego News Network Travel Page. She produces and edits the San 

Diego Essential Guide, a highly rated and continually updated travel app for mobile devices. Alison is a 

regular freelance contributor to the travel sections of U-T San Diego, the Los Angeles Times and USA 

Today. 

Sharon Whitley Larsen 

Sharon Whitley Larsen’s work has appeared in numerous publications, including Los Angeles Times Magazine, 

U-T San Diego, Reader’s Digest (including 19 international editions), and Creators Syndicate. She’s 

also a contributor to several Chicken Soup for the Soul editions. Although she enjoys writing essays, oped, 

and people features, her favorite topic is travel (favorite destination London). With passport in hand, 

she’s always ready for the next adventure! 

Carl H. Larsen 

Carl H. Larsen is a veteran journalist based in San Diego. He now focuses on travel writing, and is summoned 

to pull out his notebook whenever there’s the plaintive cry of a steam locomotive nearby. His hike 

along Hadrian’s Wall was a bit off character, but allowed for an exploration of remote pubs and welcoming 

B&Bs. In San Diego, he is a college-extension instructor who has led courses on the Titanic and the 

popular TV series “Downton Abbey.” 

John Alongé 

Popularly known as the Wine Heretic, John Alongé is a well-respected “educational entertainer” on food 

and wine topics with well over 1,000 corporate presentations on his résumé. He has written a variety of 

articles for international wine publications and is oft-quoted in food and wine industry trade journals. 

Alongé began his career working in the vineyards of the Loire Valley in France. He has studied at both the 

Ecole d’Oenologie in Bordeaux as well as UC Davis Extension in viticulture and viniculture. Additionally, 

he teaches wine business and tasting classes at San Diego State University Extended Studies. The Wine 

Heretic’s Bible, Alongé’s latest book, offers “Plain English Advice for the Casual Wino”. 


Julia Weiler 

Julia Weiler is a correspondent who covers San Diego for Forbes Travel Guide. Her wanderlust has led her 

on far-flung adventures, like housesitting in Fiji, backpacking through Southeast Asia, road-tripping in 

Mexico and building homes in Papua New Guinea with Habitat for Humanity. Her stories are published 

in an award-winning series of humorous travel anthologies, including Sand in My Bra. Weiler contributes 

to Ocean Home Magazine and is a correspondent for the website Wine and Dine San Diego. When not 

wandering or writing, she likes surfing Southern California’s best breaks. 

Robert Whitley 

Robert Whitley writes the syndicated “Wine Talk” column for Creators Syndicate and is publisher of the 

online wine magazine, Wine Review Online. Whitley frequently serves as a judge at wine competitions 

around the world, including Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, Sunset Magazine International and the 

Dallas Morning News TexSom wine competitions. Robert also operates four major international wine 

competitions in San Diego: Critics Challenge, Winemaker Challenge, Sommelier Challenge and the San 

Diego International.

PUBLISHERS 

Ron & Mary James 

EXECUTIVE EDITOR 

Ron James 

EDITOR 

Mary James 

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS 

Julia Weiler 

John Alongé 

Sharon Whitley Larsen 

Carl Larsen 

Alison DaRosa 

Robert Whitley 

Denise Jones 

Frank Mangio 

WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM 

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/EDITOR 

David Nelson 

CONTACT 

editor@winedineandtravel.com 

Wine Dine & Travel Magazine is a Wine Country Interactive Inc. company @ 2013 

Photo by Ron James 

A large enthusiastic Copacabana Beach local with a full body 

skeletal tattoo just found out about our magazine. He celebrates 

by doing a rather scary dance with coconut shells. 


CONTENTS 

AMSTERDAM 

08 

A city that has the 

perfect blend of 

beauty, history, architecture, 

culture, 

and interesting 

people. And it had 

one other thing that 

puts a city on our 

return list – energy. 

Amsterdam has it in 

spades.. 

ANNE FRANK HOUSE 

20 32 36 42 

It was in 1942 that 

a young Jewish girl 

received a redchecked 

diary for 

her 13th birthday. 

That gift became 

world-famous, a 

powerful World War 

II document . 

A NAUTICAL NATURAL 

Young Thomas 

Hinderhofer never 

even considered a 

career as a cruise 

ship officer. And 

even though it 

hadn’t crossed his 

mind, practically 

everything he did 

in his middle and 

high school life was 

preparing him for 

just that. 

FOOD DUDES 

Home Ranch is a 

dude ranch with a 

difference. Although 

the room 

was log cabin rustic, 

the communal table 

settings were as 

beautifully sophisticated 

as those in 

trendy restaurants 

on either coast. 

GRAND DESTINATIONS 

The Grand Del Mar 

was named California’s 

#1 Resort 

in Travel + Leisure’s 

2013 World’s Best 

Awards, and while I 

was mildly discouraged 

to learn of it’s 

off-the-beach location, 

I decided to 

go forward with the 

booking. I couldn’t 

have made a better 

choice. 

Wine Dine & Travel Fall 2013 | 6

WIZARD OF ADDISON 

46 52 56 

When someone 

tells me that San 

Diego doesn’t have 

fine-dining restaurants 

that compare 

with San Francisco, 

Chicago or New 

York, I point them 

to a culinary jewel 

just a stones throw 

from our sparkling 

beaches. 

BOTTLED IN BAJA 

On all levels, a 

visit to the Guadalupe 

Valley in Baja, 

ninety minutes 

from the US-Mexico 

border, can provide 

a rewarding winecountry 

experience. 

NEW CALADONIA 

New Caladonia 

offers miles of 

powdery white 

sand beaches and 

a sea in so many 

shades of blue – 

from pale turquoise 

to polished lapis, 

from cerulean to 

cobalt – that it defies 

description. 

READER PHOTOS 

62 

Amazing photos 

taken by our 

readers. They are 

traveling the globe, 

and recording 

their adventures in 

surprisingly creative 

ways. 

WALKING HADRIAN’S WALL 

64 

Take a hike, I’ve 

been told many 

times in my career. 

So, heading into my 

bucket-list years, I 

decided to take up 

the advice so many 

have freely rendered. 


TRAVELER’S 

CALENDAR 

ALBUQUERQUE BALLOON FIESTA 

October 5 –13, 2013. 

The Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta is a world-renowned attraction and 

destination that feature spectacular balloon ascensions and fair-like festivities. 

Guests from all over the world come to Albuquerque to celebrate ballooning. Literally 

hundreds of balloons will be taking flight from the Balloon Fiesta Park this year. 

VICTORIA AND ALBERT 

British Drawings: 1600 to the 

Present Day 

October 5, 2013 – April 13, 2014 

British artists have used drawing in a 

wide range of ways: to think on paper 

and to build up storehouses of ideas, 

as well as to make finished exhibition 

pieces. Covering 400 years of drawing 

practice and including works by Van 

Dyck, Gainsborough, Constable, Blake, 

Rossetti, Spencer, Freud and Hockney, 

this display traces the central role played 

by drawing in portraiture and ‘landskip’, 

and in movements from Romanticism to 

Minimalism. 

DENVER ART MUSEUM 

Passport to Paris 

October 27, 2013 – February 9, 2014 

Passport to Paris brings together works 

from the rock stars of the art world— 

Claude Monet, Edgar Degas, Camille 

Pissarro, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, and 

more. This exhibition’s trio of shows focuses 

on French art from the late 1600s 

to early 1900s and explores changes in 

art and society during three important 

centuries in art history. 


NY HISTORICAL SOCIETY 

The Armory Show at 100 

October 11, 2013 - February 23, 

2014 

This exhibition will revisit the famous 

1913 New York Armory Show on its 

100th anniversary. The exhibition included 

works by such well-known European 

modernists as Paul Cezanne, 

Marcel Duchamp, Pablo Picasso and 

Paul Gauguin 

SAN DIEGO BAY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL 

November 20-24, 2013 

Southern California’s largest wine and food festivaL Takes the spotlight this for its 

10-year-anniversary in what promises to be the its largest celebration yet. The starstudded 

event takes place in the heart of downtown San Diego, with over 20 opportunities 

to satiate enthusiasts’ appetites for luxury wine and food throughout the week. 

PUSHKAR FAIR 

November 6-17, 2013 

The Pushkar Fair, or Pushkar ka Mela, is 

the annual five-day camel and livestock 

fair, held in the town of Pushkar in the 

state of Rajasthan, India. It is one of the 

world’s largest camel fairs, and apart 

from buying and selling of livestock it 

has become an important tourist attraction. 


FEATURED DESTINATION 

AMAZING AMSTERDAM 

Amsterdam has come a long way since it was founded as a small 

fishing village in the late 12th century. Today it is a cosmopolitan 

city that is home to 176 nationalities. 

One of the prime reasons many of us like to 

cruise is that you can explore, or at least 

sample, many different cities and countries 

in a short time. And as you explore 

each destination on shore excursions 

you can decide which places are interesting enough 

to come back and experience again. A recent cruise 

from Amsterdam on the Celebrity Constellation was a 

perfect example. The ship visited a number of exciting 

ports including Stockholm, St. Petersburg and Copenhagen. 

But it was Amsterdam that made the biggest 

impression – it was a city that had the perfect blend of 

beauty, history, architecture, culture, and interesting 

people. And it had one other thing that puts a city on 

our return list – energy. Amsterdam has it in spades. 

Like most visitors we mostly explored the city cen- 


ter which begins at the transportation hub, Central 

Station. Six canals circle this area providing amazing 

photo opportunities at every turn. For three 

days we roamed the streets, museums and galleries 

of this culturally diverse city. The following pages 

in this special feature offer just a taste of what adventurers 

will find in this enlightened metropolis. 

Top left: A tour boat cruises the canal passing historic 

homes and two fancy house boats. 

Top: The Bols symbolic cow in an official tasting 

room. Bols is the world’s oldest distilled spirit 

brand -- making liqueurs in Amsterdam since 1575. 

Bottom right: People watching at the countless 

outdoor cafes is a favorite pastime for locals and 

visitors alike. 



I Amsterdam 

Photos and Story By Ron James 

I 

didn’t think much about Amsterdam when we 

booked a Baltic cruise with Celebrity Cruises. 

Stockholm, Copenhagen and especially St. Petersburg 

had my attention. All I really knew about Amsterdam 

was that women displayed their wares in 

the narrow alleys of its Red Light District and that 

drug dens full of young new-aged hippies were as 

common as taco shops are in my home city of San Diego. (Both 

were true to a certain extent; more on them later.) 

As I began to plan our port activities, the more I learned about 

Amsterdam, the better it looked. Unlike the first two visitor attractions 

just mentioned – neither is in my demographic wheel 

house – I was drawn to its rich history, eclectic architecture 

new and old, world-class cultural attractions, and energetic 

free-spirited people. 

The number of museums alone is amazing – Amsterdam has 

the highest density of museums per capita in the world. It is 

home to the Van Gogh Museum, the Anne Frank House, the 

Hermitage Amsterdam and the Rembrandt House Museum. 

My wife and I tried to visit as many as we could in three days, 

Top: Locals and visitors watch the world go by 

Left: Coffeshops line the alleyways of the Red Light district. You 

won’t find much coffee in these shops, but what they serve can 

put a smile on your face. 


ut barely scratched surface. In addition to the major tier of museums, 

there are countless others for travelers to experience, including 

the Amsterdam Museum that chronicles the city’s evolution 

and Joods Historisch Museum in the old Jewish quarter that 

explores the history of Judaism in the country. 

Prior to our visit, we ordered our tickets online for the Van Gogh 

Museum and Anne Frank House. That was a good move since we 

walked directly into both museums, past several hundred visitors 

waiting in the rain to buy tickets. Another reason to get tickets in 

advance is that both these venues tend to sell 

out early. 

Another good option is to buy a Holland Pass. 

It includes a choice of up to seven free and 

reduced entrance tickets for public transportation 

and major attractions including the 

Van Gogh Museum, the Rijksmuseum, canal 

cruises and the Heineken Experience - all 

without waiting in line. (Unfortunately the 

Anne Frank House is not included.) Holland 

Passes are 30 and 65 euros and available online 

at www.hollandpass.com. 

Transportation 

Think bicycles when you think Amsterdam; 

they are the quintessential Dutch way of getting 

from here to there. To the Dutch they 

symbolize social freedom, but they are also 

practical. High parking fees and gas prices 

make driving a car in the city very expensive. 

The close proximity of neighborhoods, flat 

terrain and dedicated bike lanes make riding 

a bike a no brainer. Even commuters keep a 

bike locked on the sea of bike racks outside 

train stations so they can pedal to work. 

Warning! Although pedestrians are supposed 

to have right of way, most bike riders ignore 

that fine legal point and may run you down if 

you get in their way. Never cross the street or 

a bike path without looking … a sweet old lady 

on a rusty two wheeler just may knock you 

down. 

You might want to take the offense and start 

peddling around town. There are bike rental 

places around Amsterdam, but the best way to 

be introduced to the two wheel club is to take 

a Yellow Bike tour. They have friendly experienced 

guides who will lead groups of up to 

eight all around the city. The guides show the 

safe way to ride while sharing the fascinating 

story of Amsterdam over the years. 

Public transit is excellent with frequent rail, and bus service to 

just about anywhere. There is a commuter information center 

just outside the central train station where you can get maps, information 

and tickets. The lines to the information folks may be 

long, so it would behoove travelers to do their homework online 

in advance to get schedules, ticket and destination information. 

We took the train from Schiphol Airport to center city and to 

then light rail trolley to our hotel without problem. Except for 

lugging heavy suitcases on and off the rail cars, the passage wasn’t 

too painful – even with jet lag setting in. 

There are information booths, city employees, police and volunteers 

scattered in and outside the station to help dazed new arrivals. 

But don’t hesitate to ask a stranger, especially if they look like 

they know where they are. Most everyone will speak English and, if 

they aren’t lost themselves, will probably help out. 

One other important detail: Make sure you have some local coins 

for the restrooms at the station and in public venues. While you’re 

in the airport, buy a candy bar or a newspaper 

and ask the cashier for change. Then you’ll be 

ready when you need it. 

The Red Light District 

I can’t say I’ve experienced anything like Amsterdam’s 

notorious Red Light District. For 

the adventurous and the open minded, it can 

be enjoyable experience. It’s not necessarily 

as erotic as it is exotic, a semi-sleazy street 

celebration like one you might find in New Orleans 

without the hurricane glasses attached 

to falling down drunks. You’ll even find a museum 

dedicated to the erotic here with lots of 

images of folks doing what comes naturally – 

mostly – as well as several of John Lennon’s 

erotic lithographs. 

Among all of these adult goings on is the Oude 

Kerk, an ancient wooden chapel built in 1306. The oldest in the 

city, it once had 38 altars each with its own guild-sponsored priest. 

Saskia, Rembrandt’s wife, was buried here in 1642. Today the 

church is mostly used as an art exhibition center. 

Coffee Houses 

If you’re looking for a good cup of java, Amsterdam’s coffee houses 

may not be your cup of tea. The ones here are licensed to sell and 

offer a comfortable and relatively safe place to partake of mariphoto 

courtesy Yellow Bike Amsterdam 


Top: Busy streets in the Red Light District. 

Bottom: The Celebrity Constellation 

docked at the cruise terminal complex 

and the Movenpick Hotel. 

Left: Bike tour group and Erotic Museum 

in Red Light District. Museum photo by 

Michal Osmenda 


juana. Coffee houses and their visitors are a significant part of Amsterdam’s 

tourism revenue. Partakers must be 18 and no smoking 

is allowed on the streets. More than five grams of the stuff in your 

possession can result in a lot of trouble. Alcohol is not served in 

these establishments and hard drugs are strictly illegal. In much of 

the country, non-locals are banned from coffee houses, but there 

was such a backlash from the tourism industry, that Amsterdam is 

an exception. If you’re planning to make this a part of your experience, 

check to be sure the laws haven’t changed. 

Exploring the Canals 

The 165 canals encircling Amsterdam have been central to the fabric 

of life here since the 16th century. These functional and picturesque 

waterways provide a marine transportation network, a home 

for houseboats and a major draw for visitors. The most interesting 

canals are Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht; all are 

lined with houseboats, from funky to grand, and framed by majestic 

400-year-old homes, eclectic shops and busy outdoor cafes. 

There are a variety of ways to explore the canals ranging from walking, 

or taking a ferry boat, canal bus, canal cruise tour or water taxi 

or even renting a four-seater canal peddle boat. The canal bus provides 

regular service on three routes where riders can hop on or off 

at 14 stops in the tourist and shopping districts. 

Dining and Drink 

If you want to do as the Dutch do or just mingle with locals, plan 

on spending time in the many cafes that line every street, alley and 

canal in the city. Most are open daily from morning until the wee 

hours of the night. As expected in a city with such diversity, there’s 

a bar and café for every culinary desire and pocket book. 

One must stop if you’re beer fan is Arendsnest Pub on Herengracht 

90 where 350 different beers brewed by about 60 Dutch breweries 

are served, including 30 on tap. The pub also offers a tasting flight 

where you can sample beers in small glasses while the friendly staff 

helps you sort through the brewskies available in this hoppy place. 

A Signature Meal 

For centuries, rijsttafel, Dutch for rice table, has been the culinary 

sport of Amsterdam. It’s a fortunate relic from the Dutch colonization 

of Indonesia. The rijsttafel feast was based on the Indonesian 

rice feast of Nasi Padang more than 400 years ago when Dutch 

East India Company traders tasted spices in rice-based dishes at 

banquets. Then, the number of dishes served could run into the 

hundreds. 

Each restaurant serves variations on the rijsttafel theme, but the 

one constant is that rice served alongside meat or vegetable small 

plates. Most restaurants offer vegetarian editions, but most feasts 


come with several meat dishes. Go hungry because you’ll be looking 

at 10 to 25 spicy dishes. 

We decided to give it a try on a Sunday, our last full day in Amsterdam. 

When we asked our concierge to make reservations, he 

explained that most of the popular restaurants that featured the 

dish were closed on Sundays. 

We sadly accepted the fact and headed to the city center to have 

a last look around. Our stroll through the rainy, but busy streets 

took us to a narrow stretch by a canal that was bordered on one 

side by a vast array of tulip and floral shops. Just as the rain 

paused, we both spied a small restaurant with a sign in the window 

that said “Rijsttafel.” 

We approached knowing that it would be closed. But no! There 

were people inside who were happily eating from many small 

dishes in front of them. We walked in an enjoyed a seemingly 

never ending parade of exotically spiced dishes. It was a delicious 

way to end our day … and our trip to amazing Amsterdam. 

Left: Hundreds of visitors line up to get tickets. Buy 

them online and save yourself the wait. 

Top: Street waffle shop near the Van Gogh Museum. 

IT’S DUTCH TO ME 

If you’re like most us, when you 

think of Holland you think of 

windmills, tulips, little Dutch girls 

with wooden shoes and Heineken beer. 

Although the country is not Holland 

the locals frequently fall back on the 

international misconception that it is. 

Even the official government website is 

Holland.com because it’s a cooler brand 

than Netherlands and that is what most 

people search for when looking to visit 

the country. 

Many from the Netherlands find it’s 

easier just to say they’re from Holland 

than have to explain what we’re trying 

to explain here. And then it gets even 

more confusing because in America we 

call them Dutch, and they speak Dutch 

but really live in the country of the 

Netherlands not Deutschland – which is 

Germany where they speak Deutsch. But 

the folks in Amsterdam do live in Holland 

– not the country, but the province 

of Holland in the country of Netherlands 

where they all speak Dutch. 

To review: The country that includes 

Amsterdam is the Netherlands, its people 

are Dutch, and they speak Dutch. 

There is no country called Holland, but 

there are provinces of North and South 

Holland. Got it? 

By the way, you don’t pronounce the “s” 

in Netherlands. 


ESSENTIAL AMSTERDAM 

Go To Van Gogh 

Celebrating its 40th anniversary 

in 2013, the 

Van Gogh Museum is 

presenting a new exhibition 

about Van Gogh’s 

life and work. 

Pedal for Beer 

Probably the most 

unique way to see the 

streets of Amsterdam. 

Get buzzed with your 

friends and leave the 

driving the sober guy 

who’s steering the thing. 

Take a Boat Ride 

A trip to Amsterdam isn’t complete without a boat 

ride through the city’s canals. It’s a great way to see 

the colorful house boats that are home to the many 

of the rich and not-so-rich citizens of the city. 

Experience Heineken 

The Heineken Experience takes less than two hours 

and includes lots of interactive activities. Two draft 

beers are included in the tour, plus an bonus glass of 

Heineken at the tasting bar after the tour! 

Visit Some 

Windmills 

Zaanse Schans is just 20 

minutes away from Amsterdam 

by rail. The living 

museum showcases 

facinating 18th and 

19th century windmills, 

homes, museums and 

workshops. 

Remember 

Rembrandt 

The Rembrandt Museum 

is where the artist 

lived and worked for 

20 years. In his painting 

studio there are daily 

demonstrations of how 

etchings and painting 

were made in the 17th 

century. 


Take a Hike or a Bike 

With out a doubt, Amsterdam is one of the most 

walkable cities in the world. It’s flat -- which makes 

bike riding a national passion. Each delightful 

neighborhood offers a unique look into the past. 

Eat Rijsttafel 

Amsterdam isn’t known as an international dining 

destination. The exception would be the many 

restaurants that feature a feast called rijsttafel. 

Buy a Pair 

of Wooden 

Shoes 

While visiting Zaanse 

Schans don’t miss the 

Wooden Shoe Factory 

and museum. Yes some 

local folks still wear 

those things. 

Go Window 

Shopping 

It’s essential to have 

an open mind when 

walking in the Red Light 

District. You never know 

what will be displayed 

in the next shop or 

cafe window -- a stoned 

tourist or a lady covered 

by just a little something. 

Go Nautical 

Het Scheepvaartmuseum, the 

National Maritime Museum, tells 

inspiring stories of how Holland 

became a power. Enjoy the stimulating, 

interactive exhibitions, the 

replica of the East India Company’s 

ship, The Amsterdam, and the 

restored 17th century building. 



Visitors line up 

early to purchase 

tickets for the Anne 

Frank House. They 

probably didn’t 

know you can get 

tickets in advance 

online that would 

save the waiting in 

the rain. 

A Poignant Visit to Amsterdam’s 

Anne Frank House 

By Sharon Whitley Larsen 

Recently I was on a Baltic cruise on the Celebrity 

Constellation, departing from Amsterdam, 

the dynamic city where I planned a few days 

of sightseeing. First on my list was to tour 

the Anne Frank House. It was in 1942 that a 

young Jewish girl received a red-checked diary 

for her 13th birthday. 

That gift became world-famous, a 

powerful World War w document 

and one of the most moving firstperson 

accounts of Jewish persecution 

and Adolf Hitler's terrifying 

reign. 

I first received a copy of “Anne 

Frank: The Diary of a Young Girl” 

decades ago when I was in the 

sixth grade. And I still have the 

torn, yellowed paperback. Millions 

have fallen in love with the powerful, intimate writing of this innocent, 

ambitious teen. It's hard to believe that Anne would be 

84 today had she not died in a concentration camp at age 15. 

Anne's diary was mainly written during the two years (1942- 

“This visit was just 

as powerful as my 

first. I felt an overwhelming 

sadness...” 

1944) that she and her family--parents Otto and Edith, and 

older sister Margot--hid in quiet fear in the back section of a 

four-story Amsterdam office building with four others. 

Miep Gies, a Christian, was among a few trusted office employees 

in the building who brought food, books, and news to 

the hidden group, trying to boost their spirits. And, when they 

were captured in August 1944 (it’s unknown, to this day, who 

turned them in), it was she who discovered 

Anne’s diary and scattered 

papers left behind. After the war she 

presented them to Otto, the only one 

of the group to survive. He died in 

1980, age 91. 

“Here is your daughter Anne’s legacy 

to you,” she told him in July 1945. 

The following spring, historian Jan 

Romein wrote a front page story 

about the diary in the Dutch newspaper 

Het Parool, noting: “For me, all the hideousness of fascism 

is embodied in this apparently insignificant diary of a child, 

more than in all the Nuremberg court documents put together.” 

The diary was first published in June 1947 as “The Secret 


Annexe: Diary Letters from June 14, 

1942-Aug. 1, 1944” with a run of some 

3,000. To date it has sold more than 

35 million copies in 70 languages. 

The Anne Frank House opened as 

a museum on May 3, 1960. I first 

toured it in 1970; this would be my 

third visit. More than 1 

million visit annually--and 

on most days there is still 

a long line of young people 

from around the world 

waiting patiently to get in. 

The museum includes 

high-tech videos, with 

moving documentaries by 

classmates, neighbors, and family 

friends. On one, Otto notes that he 

was amazed to see what his beloved 

daughter had written, that it was 

“a miracle” that the diary had been 

saved. 

“It took me a very long time to read 

it," he said, "and I must say I was very 

much surprised about deep thoughts 

Anne had, her seriousness—and especially 

her self-criticism. It was quite a 

different Anne that I had known as my 

daughter; she never really showed this 

kind of inner feeling. . . .Most parents 

“In spite of everything I 

still believe that people 

are really good at heart.” 

~ Anne Frank 

don’t know, really, their children.” Noting 

that he was not bitter, he added, “To 

build up a future, you have to know the 

past.” 

In an upstairs alcove is a corner bookcase—its 

shelves lined with empty account 

books. Behind it is a hidden door- 

way, with a framed map of the Grand 

Duchy of Luxembourg hiding the upper 

edge of the door frame. When the bookcase 

is swung open, it reveals steep, narrow 

stairs--the entrance to the "Secret 

Annexe," as Anne dubbed it. 

I slowly walked through the five tiny, 

empty, stuffy rooms--with windows 

closed and covered just as 

they had been back then. This 

visit was just as powerful as 

my first. I felt an overwhelming 

sadness and was moved to 

see some visitors wiping tears; 

others whispered as they pointed 

out things. During the day, 

when there had been office and 

warehouse workers downstairs, the hidden 

group had to be quiet as mice. “No 

running water, no flushing lavatory, no 

walking around, no noise whatsoever,” 

Anne wrote in August 1943. Difficult for 

a young teen to do--and so she turned to 

her diary. 

I was most touched seeing Anne's tiny, 

narrow room, which she had shared with 

a middle-aged dentist, and where she 

wrote her diary. The orangy wallpaper 

is still decorated with several postcards 

Top: The swinging bookcase hid the entrance to 

the secret living quarters. 

Left: Visitors browse the Frank family timeline. 


and photos--including that era's big film 

stars and a young Princess Elizabeth, today's 

long-reigning British queen. Anne 

had pasted them on the walls to give it 

some cheerful decor. On one wall in her 

parents' room are pencil marks, where 

Edith had measured her daughters’ 

growth. A map of Normandy pin-pointing 

the Allied advance, which Otto had 

hung up, still remains. 

Another room is where the group had 

gathered for daily meals; there's still the 

small sink and stove. The tiny bathroom 

has just a sink, mirror, and toilet. Food 

supplies were kept in the attic. 

It was in these hidden rooms where 

the group tensed upon hearing burglars 

downstairs; where they celebrated 

birthdays, anniversaries, and Jewish 

holidays. And where they listened to war 

news on the radio, and held out hope 

that one day soon they would be free 

to pursue their dreams in the outside 

world. Anne’s dream was to be a writer. 

Another section of the museum displays 

Anne’s original diary, and includes her 

other writings, dramatic exhibits, commentaries, 

displays, photos, and international 

newspaper stories from those 

sad days. 

“I can feel the sufferings of millions 

and yet, if I look up into the heavens, I 

think that it will all come right, that this 

cruelty too will end, and that peace and 

tranquility will return again,” she wrote 

in July 1944. “In spite of everything I 

still believe that people are really good 

at heart.” 

Just three months earlier she had proclaimed, 

“I want to go on living even 

after my death!” And, through her gift 

to us, she has done just that. Her story 

must not be forgotten; her legacy must 

endure. 

Top: Anne Frank’s room with walls covered 

with clippings promising a better world. 

Right: Photos of baby Anne Frank and family. 

WHEN YOU GO: Anne Frank House and Museum: www.annefrank.org/ About $12 adults; about $6.30 ages 10-17; about 65 

cents for ages 10 and under. It’s important to pre-book timed tickets online to avoid waiting in a long line. Some tours include a lecture 

in English. Unfortunately, the hidden rooms are not wheelchair accessible. The tour involves climbing several flights of steep, 

narrow stairs. There’s also a café and a spacious gift shop with numerous books—by and about Anne in various languages. 

Discover Anne Frank’s Amsterdam: www.annefrank.org/en/Subsites/Annes-Amsterdam/ 

PHOTO CREDITS: Copyright Anne Frank House, photographer Cris Toala Olivares; Ron James 



Zaanse 

A DAY TRIP TO 

Schans 

Just 20 minutes by train from Amsterdam 

is the delightful village of Zaanse Schans. Walking into the 

village is like stepping back in time. Set on the banks of the 

river Zaan you are surrounded by charming characteristic 

green wooden houses, shops, gardens, hump-backed bridges, 

and most significant of all – historic Dutch windmills. 


Top: The charming village of Zaandijk with 

private docks on the Zann river. 

Above: Visitors shop at the Coffee Museum 

and store. 

Right: Homes and shops line the road to 

the windmills 



“I sipped my beer. I could imagine 

slipping on my comfortable 

wooden shoes and heading out 

to my own giant windmill...” 

Story & Photos by Ron James 

No trip to Amsterdam is complete without a visit to Zaanse Schans, 

an historic community on the banks of the Zaan River where windmills 

and wooden shoes still rule. With a little help from our hotel 

concierge, we found the right train out of the Central Station to 

the Koog-Zaandijk stop. Although you can get there by bus or even 

boat, a 17 minute train ride through the flat green countryside is the 

easiest way to go. Once you arrive at the station, it’s a pleasant 15 

minute walk through the charming town of Zaandijk to get to the 

historic area. If you don’t want walk, there are some taxis and at the 

time we visited, bus service was available. 

As you walk, you’ll see a very picturesque street on the left lined 

with gorgeous green and white homes and buildings, many with 

boats and yachts docked along the Zaan River. We were tempted 

to visit the stores and restaurants, but we had windmills on our 

minds. As we made our way across a bridge to Zaanse Schans, the 

windmills come into view. It was like looking through a window 

back in time. 

In fact, more than 250 years ago, this pastoral community was a 

thriving industrial area with more than 600 windmills churning out 

lumber, paint, mustard, oil, grain and paper. It was the world’s first 

industrial park. But it was also a community with homes, churches, 

taverns and stores. 

Left and top: Of the thousand 

industrial windmills built 

along the banks of the river 

Zaan thirteen remain. Six can 

be found in Zaanse Schans. 

Right: One of the two smaller 

hobby windmills in Zaanse 

Schans. 

Bottom opposite page: The 

Interior of one of the grain 

producing windmills with 

two giant grinding wheels. 



Today people live and work in the village just 

as the Dutch did hundreds of years ago. The 

village’s narrow paths lead past a small retail 

center with gift and gourmet shops, and 

a hotel with outdoor dining. Here you’ll find 

a grocery museum and Pewter Foundry De 

Tinkoepel, one of the last pewter foundries 

left in the Netherlands. On the other side of 

the road is a narrow canal with humpback 

bridges scattered down its length. They lead 

to homes where local families live. 

As we wander out of the village we take the 

path toward a string of eight windmills of 

all shapes and sizes. Six are industrial windmills 

designed to produce its own product. 

There are demonstrations of how the power 

of the windmill is used to produce oil, make 

pigments for paint, and saw timber. 

Some of the windmills also serve as homes 

for their owners who can be seen tinkering 

at the sails and parts of the windmills that 

must need regular maintenance. A number 

of windmills are retail stores and offer free 

admittance, while others ask for a small fee 

so that they can maintain these ancient giants. 

It was truly remarkable to think that 

they were the height of industrial technology 

well over 400 years ago. 

After visiting several windmills we took a 

fork in the path that led to an equally interesting 

section of the historical park. 

Grouped in several period-style buildings 

were a cheese farm with an elaborate retail 

sales area and a wooden shoe museum and 

factory displaying hundreds of pairs of fascinating 

clogs of every era for every need. 

Clog and cheese making demonstrations 

add to the fun. 

Within this complex are a couple casual 

restaurants with outdoor seating. We enjoyed 

a meal made with local ingredients 

and some local brews. As I sipped my beer, 

I could imagine slipping on my comfortable 

wooden shoes and heading out to my own 

giant windmill that would do nothing but 

rock a giant hammock. Thinking about living 

in the past can be hard work. 

IF YOU GO 

Guided tours are available and lasts about 1.5 hours. 

€ 6.50 p.p. (minimum of 10 and a maximum of 20 

people per guide) 

Hours for the park and stores are from 11 a.m. -- 5 p.m. 

Website: www.zaanseschans.nl 

Top: Visitors chat with sheep whose milk is 

used in the cheese production as shown in 

the cheese making plant above. 

Left: A docile replica of a cow lets visitors 

try their hand at milking without upsetting 

the real thing. 

Right: Displays of unusual wooden shoes. 

The wooden shoe making museum and 

manufacturing plant has several demonstrations 

daily. 



TRAVEL INDUSTRY PROFILE 

a nautical natural 

HE WORKED HIS ENTIRE YOUNG LIFE TO BE A CRUISE CAPTAIN - ONLY HE DIDN’T KNOW IT 

Meet Staff Captain Thomas Hinderhofer, one of the new 

breed of up-and-coming American cruise ship command 

officers. 

Story & Photos by Ron James 


Young Thomas Hinderhofer never considered a 

career as a cruise ship officer. Yet practically everything 

he did in high school prepared him for 

just that. 

In less than a decade after high school graduation, 

he has risen to the rank of Staff Captain, 

second in command on a 2,100-passenger cruise 

ship plying oceans and seas around the world. In 

an industry where ranking officers tend to be veteran Europeans, 

Hinderhofer is one of only a handful of Americans to rise to this 

level of leadership position. 

Hinderhofer was raised on New York’s Long Island just off Exit 

66 of the Long Island Expressway. “It’s a good reference point,” 

he says with a smile during a break from his duties one sunny afternoon. 

“You won’t believe how many people I talk to who know 

exactly where that is. Many of them say, ‘Hey I used to live off 

Exit 68, or my cousin live just a few exits away.’” 

Although surrounded by water, Hinderhofer wasn’t drawn to the 

local marine scene. “I never saw myself sailing on ships,” he says 

when asked about his career plans growing up. “Although I lived 

by the water, I never had a boat. A friend did have a rubber raft 

and we used to go fishing on the lake by my house. But you know, 

I was actually really terrified – you never knew what was inside 

that lake.” 

Hinderhofer thrived in school, excelling in academics, sports 

and extracurricular activities. “I liked the social aspect of it 

all,” he recalls. “High school wasn’t only about education and a 

career. It was about meeting people, helping people and giving 

back to the community. “ 

“I never saw myself sailing 

on ships. Although 

I lived by the water I 

never had a boat. A 

friend did have a rubber 

raft we used to paddle 

around and go fishing 

on the lake by my house. 

But you know I was actually 

really terrified 

– you never knew what 

was inside that lake.” 

Left: Staff Captain Thomas Hinderhofer is second in command 

of the Celebrity Infinity above. 


Staff Captain Thomas in charge of the bridge during a Panama Canal transit. The Panamanian pilot on the left looks for hazards. 

As his senior year approached, he began to 

explore his options for college and career. 

He considered being a police officer, but the 

9-11 terrorist attacks in New York drew him 

toward the military. “I liked the discipline 

and order, and the idea of getting objectives 

completed and moving on,” he says. 

High scores on the U. S. Navy recruiting 

test resulted in an invitation to join a nuclear 

submarine crew. He was intrigued, 

but when openings closed, his interest in 

joining the Navy enlisted ranks waned. But 

based on his brief flirtation with the military, 

he began to look into college ROTC 

programs that would lead to a commission. 

It was while exploring those options he 

came across the New York Maritime College 

at Fort Schuyler. 

“I realized I could get a college degree that 

would lead to a sure position,” he said of his 

decision to enroll. “And I could get a license 

to sail as a civilian mariner, which is today 

a pretty lucrative career starting right out of 

college.” 

The structured military-like environment 

suited the eager student and he excelled in 

the classroom and extra-curricular activities. 

He ranked near the top of the class and 

graduated in the top 10 percent academically. 

“Like all of my fellow classmates I wanted 

to go for a job on a tanker or container 

ship,” he says. “I didn’t know much about 

or even considered cruise ships.” 

That changed at one of the school’s semiannual 

career fairs when he chatted with 

three executives from Celebrity Cruises. 

Both sides liked what they heard, even 

though an entry level office earned only 

two-thirds of what officers on container or 

cargo ships made. “But obviously, I wasn’t 

in it for the money,” he says with a smile. 

“I was 21 years old. Who wouldn’t want to 

be aboard a cruise ship right after graduation?” 

Six days after he graduated, Celebrity offered 

him a position. That was six years ago 

and in that time he rose to the rank of Staff 

Captain. 

If you’re lucky enough to be aboard the same 

ship with Staff Captain Thomas, you’ll see 

him using the people and leadership skills 

he developed in school. When he isn’t dealing 

with his administrative duties, leading 

his crew in safety and emergency drills and 

taking his turn on bridge, he’s confidently 

walking the decks greeting passengers and 

answering questions – always with a smile 

on his face. 

He even has his own popular lecture series 

dealing with ship’s propulsion, navigation 

and recycling program on the main theater 

stage – which is where he met his wife, who 

was a Celebrity dancer. As of this writing 

he is enjoying his three months off with his 

bride at their home in New Jersey. 

There are less than a handful of Americanborn 

cruise ship masters in the world. But 

it’s pretty obvious that it’s only a matter of 

time before Hinderhofer takes up that ultimate 

cruise ship responsibility. 

“I still get goose bumps when I think about 

being an officer on a cruise ship,” the Staff 

Captain said, “To be honest -- I don’t know 

why things happen in life, but sometimes it 

just fits.” 

This is the first in WD&T’s profiles of notable professionals 

in the travel and hospitality industries. 


TRAVEL TECHNOLOGY 

5 Usefull Travel Apps 

More than 25 million Americans will depart on an 

international vacation this summer, many of which 

take place in August after camp and sports programs 

come to an end and before school begins again. With 

bag and weight limitations, travelers must make important 

decisions about the items they pack. What 

many travelers may not realize is that some of the 

most useful tools for traveling can be downloaded right 

onto their mobile phones and save them time, frustration 

and money so they can enjoy as much of their 

vacation as possible. 

iTranslate 

Another free app that will save the day! Need 

to converse with a waitress or hotel manager 

and forgot how to say a word or phrase? 

The iTranslate app can translate more than 

60 languages and also includes an extensive 

dictionary at your fingertips. 

TripAdvisor Offline City Guides 

This free city guides will come in handy when you find yourself 

strolling through a European city with a sudden urge to grab a 

bite or deciding last minute to take a day trip to an Italian coastal 

village. With this app, you can read reviews of restaurants, attractions 

and hotels with no data roaming charges. 

AllSubway 

Save time and money by sticking to public 

transit. This app helps you navigate 151 different 

metropolitan transit systems across 

the globe like a pro. Best yet, it’s available 

off-line so you’re able to navigate anywhere, 

anytime. 

BillPin 

Traveling around the 

world with friends or 

extended family is 

one of the best parts 

of being abroad, but 

figuring out rent and 

splitting expensive 

checks at restaurants 

can be tricky, especially 

in foreign currency! 

This free app 

helps track expenses 

and exchange rates - 

and avoid the awkward 

“you owe me” 

conversation. 

Vonage Mobile 

International phone fees can become an 

unexpected high-ticket cost without proper 

pre-planning. Before you take off, invite 

friends and family to download the free 

Vonage Mobile app and you can keep them 

up-to-date on your awesome adventure, 

whether by phone, text, video or all of the 

above! International calls to the U.S. are 

free over Wi-Fi. 


FAMILY DESTINATIONS 

FOOD DUDES 

Tucked away at the far end of the valley, where the Elk River 

flows from the Sawtooth Range, lies Home Ranch, a hidden 

Relais & Chateaux gem, one of the West’s great dude ranches 

-- and a root’n-too’n vacation paradise for foodies. 

Story and Photos by Ron James 

It was our first day at the dude ranch in the Rocky 

Mountains, near Steamboat Springs, Colo. The sky 

was clear and a cool breeze tamed the warmth of a 

bright sun. We had been riding most 

of the afternoon, winding up and 

down green hillsides and through 

meadows lush with wildflowers. 

My horse, Shooter, never seemed to 

mind carrying a man just a bit on the 

large side of his 6-foot frame. For that, I let him munch on wildflowers 

from time to time. 

Back at the ranch, after a bit of rest and an opportunity to wash off 

the trail dust, we headed to the dining room. Aided by memories 


of old cowboy movies, I pictured simple but hearty fare served by a 

crotchety cook named Cookie. 

My fantasy dissolved in the large dining room of the Home Ranch, 

a dude ranch with a difference. Although 

“More Daniel Boulud 

than Gabby Hayes” 

the room was log cabin rustic, the communal 

table settings were as beautifully 

sophisticated as those in trendy restaurants 

on either coast. This dinner was 

going to be more Daniel Boulud than 

Gabby Hayes — not beans and biscuits, but a six-course tasting menu 

matched with fine wines. This is a ranch for foodies as much as dudies, 

you might say. 

Home Ranch guests are a well-heeled professional bunch, many with

Left and above: Home 

Ranch main living 

quarters with one of the 

several detached cabins in 

the distance. 

Below: Dude ranch cowhands 

get guests saddled 

up. 


young’uns in tow. All relish the laid-back atmosphere 

of the ranch — and the day long 

activities for children that made this a family 

vacation kids and parents could enjoy. 

Although the ranch provides the traditional 

hiking, riding, fly-fishing and river rafting, 

it is the food and hospitality that keep these 

dudes coming back year after year. (Over 

half the guests on our stay were returnees.) 

The Home Ranch is one of a handful of 

dude ranches that belong to the exclusive 

Relais & Chateaux association, whose high 

standards are based on the five Cs: “Courtesy, 

Charm, Character, Calm, Cuisine.” 

“All of our breads, pastries, 

desserts, soups 

and even ice cream are 

made from scratch.” 

Home Ranch has a professional kitchen 

staff worthy of the finest dining spots. It is 

led by Executive Chef Clyde Nelson, who 

has been serving guests at the ranch for 

more than 17 years. He has been featured in 

several magazines including Bon Appetit, 

Food & Wine and Gourmet. Nelson, who 


Above, opposite: Guests 

relax, ride and fish at 

Home Ranch. 

Top: Top hand and 

General Manager Johnny 

Fisher (second from left) 

serenades the guests with 

songs from the trail. 

Left: Ron James pauses in 

a meadow of flowers with 

his horse Shooter. 


grew up in Vermont and holds a degree in 

wildlife management, feels he was destined 

for the Home Ranch. 

“I love the outdoors, I love and actively participate 

in all of the activities here — except 

horseback riding,” he said with a laugh. 

Nelson and his crew prepare three gourmet 

meals a day for their guests. They pride 

themselves on using only the freshest natural 

ingredients, most of which come from 

the area. 

“You won’t find anything store-bought or 

prepackaged in our kitchens,” explained 

the chef. “All of our breads, pastries, desserts, 

soups and even ice cream are made 

from scratch daily.” 

Lunch is served off the grill, pool side most 

of the time. During the week, most dinners 

are multi-course fine-dining experiences 

with some evenings featuring casual gourmet 

outdoor cookouts at a special place on 

the ranch. 

As we took our seats for the wine pairing 

dinner, the Chef de cuisine paraded out 

of the kitchen in his spotless whites to announce 

the feast. 

“Tonight, ladies and gentlemen, we will 

start with elk and beef carpaccio with baby 

arugula salad, matched with a silky 2003 


Belle Pente Estate Pinot Noir.” 

He rolled through the following six courses 

like a master maitre d’, starting with grilled 

Copper River salmon with mango and grilled 

pineapple salsa, and ending with a decadent 

chocolate cake with homemade Turkish ice 

cream matched with a 2002 Andrake Reserve. 

It was a meal to remember. I only wished 

that Shooter were there; I would have shared 

my baby arugula salad. 

Top: After a hard day in the saddle cowpokes 

gather in the rustic dining room. 

Bottom: Perfectly grilled roast beef and 

vegetables served at one of the several 

outdoor meals.

Top: Dudes chowing down at the hayride meal 

during a perfect summer evening. 

Middle: Homemadei ice cream served along a 

crusty fruit cobbler. 

Above: Executive Chef Clyde Nelson 

Bottom: Lunch is served at the Home Ranch 

outdoor dining room. 


DREAM DESTINATIONS 

The Grand Del Mar 

BEAUTY BEYOND THE BEACH 

It may come as a surprise to learn that California’s 

best hotel is not in fact located on the sand. 

By Julia Weiler 

Despite the coast’s obvious draw, San Diego has an 

equally grand attraction inland. Boasting a triple 

sweep of Forbes Travel Guide’s Five Star Rating 

for its resort, spa and signature dining venue 

plus the prestigious AAA Five Diamond Award, the opulent oasis 

known as The Grand Del Mar gives sun-seeking sojourners a reason 

to stay and play beyond the beach. 

I recently spent a three-day weekend at The Grand Del Mar. It was 

my husband’s birthday and I wanted to provide a memorable experience 

that would earn me carte blanche for the rest of the year. I’m terrible 

with anniversaries and holidays, so I figured if I nailed the birthday 

thing I’d be forgiven all else. The Grand Del Mar was named California’s 

#1 Resort in Travel + Leisure’s 2013 World’s Best Awards, and while I 

was mildly discouraged to learn of it’s off-the-beach location, I decided 

to go forward with the booking. I couldn’t have made a better choice. 

As my husband and I headed northeast of San Diego, our surroundings 

softened from city skyline and sea to rolling hills and open blue skies. 

Traffic thinned, hustle and bustle slowed to a crawl and all around us a 

sense of peace and quiet set in. The resort’s winding driveway looped 

below towering eucalyptus trees, lush palms and alongside chalky cliffs 


carved by nature. To the south, undulating emerald green fairways of 

the resort’s Tom Fazio-designed golf course gave way to dramatic views 

of the Los Peñasquitos Canyon preserve. Ahead of us, The Grand Del 

Mar rose like a fairy tale palace. 

We pulled past Romanesque marble fountains to the stone-clad rotunda 

and were greeted by a genteel valet. Seamlessly, we were ushered to reception 

where cool fruit-infused teas and a warm welcome waited. Dazzled 

by the old-world architecture, intricate detailing and jewel-toned 

décor, we made our way through hallways accented by hand-painted 

frescoes and artwork lit by gilded light sconces. By the time we arrived 

at our private suite we’d forgotten the beach, in fact we’d forgotten San 

Diego all together. We imagined ourselves in the Mediterranean region, 

under the Tuscan sun. 

We bounded through our suite’s double doors and explored the interior 

like giddy children. The sitting room featured dark mahogany 

furnishings draped in fine brocades. Bookshelves lined with leatherbound 

classics flanked a formal fireplace. A filigreed balcony framed 

soaring views from fairways to the rustic canyon beyond. Meanwhile, 

the dining room had seating for eight under tufted ceilings hung with 

an elaborate chandelier. A fruit and cheese plate with chilled San Pel- 


ligrino adorned the table, and in the kitchen, atop the polished marble, 

a welcome card commemorated our arrival. 

Through the hallway we discovered our sumptuous sleeping quarters 

and a marble bathroom equipped with walk-in shower, deep European 

soaking tub, dual vanities and enough room to dance the waltz. Fluffy 

robes and plush slippers waited for us in the oversized closet. The bedroom 

itself was a splendid lair of soft settees, a masculine office nook 

and yet another picture-perfect balcony. The king sized bed was dressed 

in crisp cotton sheets by the legendary Italian linen maker, Frette. We 

plopped on the pillow-topped mattress, sampled the custom bath amenities 

and threw open the balcony doors to invite the sage-scented 

breeze inside. 

After our romp around the room we departed for Amaya, the resort’ s relaxed 

and elegant dining venue. Seated on a patio ensconced by serpentine 

staircases, shaded by an elaborate canopy and overlooking the grassy 

Aria Pavilion, we sipped stems of vino from the resort’s 3,500-bottle cellar. 

We savored smoky almond-crusted scallops with sweet-tart grapefruit 

confit, snacked on plump Catalan-style shrimp in fragrant lime and 

chili broth, then continued with tarragon-laced pappardelle intertwined 

with crab and lobster, and a tender duo of petit filet paired with slowbraised 

short rib. 

The following morning we enjoyed breakfast in bed. Content to spend 

the day lolling about in his robe, the birthday boy kissed me goodbye 

and sent me off to the resort’s Renaissance-inspired spa. Embraced by 

delicate music, jasmine-scented air and soft pastel décor, I gave into 

my peaceful surroundings. I sprawled on indoor daybeds, lounged on 

garden chaises and indulged in chocolate truffles melted with mouthfuls 

of hot herbal teas. I skimmed glamorous magazines, admired the 

spa’s collection of framed Hermes scarves, and when it was time for my 

90-minute Stony Silence ritual, I nearly floated to the treatment room. 


The session began with careful placement of smooth stones heated to 

sinew soothing temperatures. The rounded curves eased into my pressure 

points, relieving tension as the heat soaked in. When I was utterly 

relaxed, my therapist used heated stones to massage my muscles in long 

sweeping strokes until aches were but a memory. Afterwards, I dallied 

at the spa then plunged into the adults-only pool. Gentle music from 

the underwater stereo system provided the soundtrack as I swam a lap 

of luxury.

Top: The 13th hole in front of resort complex. 

Left: Equestrian trails around the resort. 

Below: Couples suite at the spa. 

Bottom: The living room of the Mizner suite. 

That night we celebrated my husband’s birthday at Addison with 

a French-inspired culinary journey helmed by Relais & Châteaux 

Grand Chef William Bradley. We began with signature cocktails 

sipped on the terrace with views of a dramatic cascading waterfall. 

Afterwards, back in the folds of the sophisticated dining room our 

seating commenced with amuse-bouche then progressed through 

several perfectly paced courses presented with artisanal breads, intriguing 

wines and refreshing in-betweens. We supped on expertly 

prepared bites of Kumamoto oysters, porcini mushroom risotto, 

coddled farm eggs and Kobe short rib. A final course of rich espressos 

and delicate sweets concluded the elaborate meal. 

Our time at The Grand Del Mar was a blissful blur of rest and relaxation 

punctuated by inspired cuisine, fine wines and passionate service 

with an uncanny knack of anticipating and meeting needs we 

didn’t even know we had. Every time we returned to our suite some 

new miracle had occurred. My hairdryer cord would be wound and 

tied with golden ribbon, my bath salts refreshed and rose petals 

provided for my next soak. My husband’s eyeglasses would be polished 

and a fresh cleaning kit set to the side for later. His newspaper 

refolded with a bookmark slipped in to hold his place. Chocolates 

were left throughout the room like little gifts from the gods, wine 

glasses placed next to the bottle we’d found in the gift shop and on 

his birthday, a cake appeared without our asking. 

My husband’s wish to do as little or as much as he pleased was realized 

that weekend. He slept late. He lounged in robe and slippers 

and enjoyed peace and quiet in a private, beautiful location. Our 

excursions were fun and easy. I had definitely nailed the birthday 

thing, but rather than seeing my victory as an excuse to forget all 

other occasions I started plotting the next. Don’t we have an anniversary 

coming soon? What about a Christmas getaway? My birthday 

is near, should I break tradition and vacay off the beach? Yes, 

I still love the sand, and California has some glorious coastline, but 

for true connoisseurs of luxury travel there is The Grand Del Mar. 

Perhaps I’ll see you there. 

Photos courtesy of The Grand Del Mar 


William Bradley 

The wizard of Addison 

By Ron James 

W 

hen someone suggests 

to me that the San Diego 

region doesn’t have 

fine-dining restaurants 

that compare with San 

Francisco, Chicago or 

New York, I point them 

to a culinary jewel just a long stones throw 

from Del Mar’s sparkling beaches. The 

place is called Addison at The Grand Del 

Mar. Since the restaurant opened, it has 

racked up more prestigious awards than 

many star chef-owned restaurants. 

The maestro in the kitchen is Chef William 

Bradley. He has wowed San Diegans 

and visitors with his vision of contemporary 

French cuisine since the restaurant 

opened in 2006. Bradley began his career 

at Azzura Point at Loews Coronado Bay 

Resort and then moved on to Scottsdale. 

As executive chef for Vu restaurant at the 

Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort & Spa, 

he was nominated for the James Beard 

Award for Rising Star Chef for three consecutive 

years. 

For all the recognition and honors he’s received, 

Bradley is too little recognized by 

East Coast food journalists and culinary 

intelligentsia. Bradley’s accomplishments 


are even more remarkable given that he has 

no formal training and has labored in a nonmajor 

media market in a hotel resort hidden 

off a freeway between tracts of suburban 

homes. 

The Addison Experience 

It begins when you turn off a nondescript 

suburban boulevard into an almost hidden 

side street. At this quiet intersection, nondescript 

ends and grand begins. 

The two-lane road wends through the plush 

acreage of The Grand Del Mar, a luxuryclass 

resort and golf club. Spotlights accent 

manicured oak and olive trees all the way 

to the restaurant, where valets bustle and 

guests waiting for their cars gather by the 

blazing outdoor fireplace to ward off the 

evening chill. 

Inside the intricate iron and glass doors 

wait an imposing foyer with golden Venetian 

plastered walls, a 20-foot high pyramid 

ceiling and an inlaid limestone and marble 

floor. The design reflects the style created by 

the restaurant’s namesake, Addison Mizner, 

a renowned architect who introduced this 

hybrid Moroccan, Spanish and Venetian 

style at posh Palm Beach and Boca Raton 

resorts in the 1920s. 

Addison’s intricately detailed entryway leads 

into the elegant dining room and a culinary 

adventure orchestrated by Chef William Bradley.

Near the large, full-service bar, a cozy room 

features a 13-foot tall limestone fireplace. 

As we’re seated and fine white linen napkins 

are draped across our laps -- we take a deep 

breath and look around. Other guests that 

evening are dressed up (by San Diego standards) 

and the room buzzes with good cheer 

and anticipation. There’s a mood of celebration 

in the air. 

Addison’s dining room is thoughtfully designed. 

With seating for just 80, the atmosphere 

is rather intimate and the acoustics 

are good, despite the tall ceilings and open 

floor plan. Tables are spaced nicely, and in 

a way that keeps conversations at the table. 

Lighting is soft and low, but thanks to unobtrusive 

spotlights, guests can read the menu 

and view the dishes without resorting to the 

table candle or a cell phone light. 

The restaurant offers a choice of fixed-price 

menus featuring absolutely fresh and, when 

“If you’ve never 

tried sweetbreads, 

this 

version will 

make you a 

fan.” 

possible, locally grown ingredients. The 

menus are seasonal. A sample menu posted 

on Addison’s website (www.addisondelmar. 

com) lists dishes currently being served. 

The Four-Course Prix-Fixe Menu, priced at 

$98, offers guests choice selections for each 

course. There is also a cheese cart featuring 

10 choice cheeses from California, Wisconsin, 

Italy and France. 

Also available is The Gourmand 10-Course- 

Menu for $235 per person. If you want a 

memorable treat, as we did, Bradley will 

create a special seven course Carte Blanche 

meal “for the table,” priced at $175 per person 

(add wine pairing for an additional $125 

per person). 

I like a “chef’s choice” menu because it both 

is a good gauge of the chef’s range and culinary 

mastery, and offers a rich variety of flavors, 

textures and artistic plating. In short, 

it’s a feast for the eyes and palate. 

Before the first course, we were served an 

amuse-bouche of smoked salmon rillettes 

with cornichons and yuzu, a tasty mouthful 

presented like a tiny jewel. Those with big 

appetites may think they crave more, but 

patience, my hungry friends; you will walk 

out of Addison full and satisfied. 

The next two courses spotlighted seafood. 

Up first were layers of thinly sliced Australian 

hiramasa served with pickled cucumbers, 

pears and uni, an arrangement of 

vividly contrasting textures accented with 

fruity sweetness and ocean-fresh salinity. 

Alaskan king crab starred in the second 

course. Crab is my favorite seafood, but I 

tend to avoid Alaskan king crab because it 

often disappoints. Chef Bradley changed 

my thinking with the first bite - sweet, 

flavorful and so tender it melted in my 

mouth. The accompanying aioli and cured 

lemon emulsion were perfect foils for this 

succulent delicacy. 

Our next dish, ris de veau (veal sweetbreads) 

was lightly crusted to preserve the 

delicate flavor, and served with toasted 

pistachios, amaretto and prunes. This dish 

again balanced sweet and savory notes, 

proving Bradley’s mastery of this impressive 

high-wire act. If you’ve never tried 

sweetbreads, this version will make you a 

fan. 

After the artisan cheese course, we refreshed 

our palates with a crisp granite 

(ice) of lemon-honey and apple cider before 

moving on to dessert. 

When you’re celebrating, there’s always 


oom for dessert and at Addison, the expertly prepared 

sweets aren’t to be missed. We savored tender warm almond 

cake with a tangy berry gastrique and crème fraîche 

sorbet, a beautiful plate created by the pastry chef team. 

From amuse-bouche to dessert, Addison’s service was 

world-class. The expert staff, presented and cleared each 

course deftly. Polished but not the least bit pompous, the 

staff was friendly without being familiar. 

Each course of our chef’s menu was solidly matched with 

a wine selected by the Sommelier who described the wine 

and pairing in detail. Both tap the amazing resources in 

Addison’s 37,000-bottle wine cellar, a collection that has 

garnered a slew of accolades. 

The only American wine poured was a Schramsberg, Brut 

“Blanc de Blancs,” presented with the amuse-bouche. 

Then we were taken on a global wine adventure, sampling 

a slightly fruity and effervescent Txomin Etxaniz Basque 

white, a semi-dry German Riesling, a sweet Emilio Lustau 

“Solera” sherry and a full-bodied Montes syrah from Chili. 

It is worth the money to make this journey. 

If you want to bring a bottle from your own cellar to enjoy 

with dinner, keep in mind that the corkage fee is a 

very hefty $50. Any additional bottles you bring must be 

matched by an equal number of purchased bottles. 

Chef Bradley challenges himself and his staff to embrace 

each season’s freshest local ingredients. His fall tasting 

menus will include: Parfait de Poulard with quince gelée 

and cinnamon brioche; Sea scallops with cauliflower, 

caviar and celery; Petit Crevettes with matsutake mushrooms, 

water chestnuts and dashi; Ris de Veau Panés with 

smoked pecans, parsnips and sauce periguèux; and Pears 

Poché with vanilla crémeux orange and Armagnac. 

As the number of fine dining, special occasion restaurants 

dwindles in cities across America, Addison must be celebrated 

for staying the course and offering the memorable 

setting, menu and service expected of world-class 

restaurants. The dining experience produced by Bradley 

and his team certainly adds weight to the argument that 

San Diego is, indeed, a culinary destination. 

I recently admonished a young restaurant reporter for 

using too many lofty superlatives in restaurant profiles. 

Wait, I explained, until you find a restaurant truly worthy 

of such high praise. Addison’s dining experience was worthy, 

and in fact, it was grand. 


Chef William Bradley’s 

BAKED DOVER SOLE WITH LEMON- 

LIME JAM AND FINES HERBES 

INGREDIENTS 

6 whole lemons, peeled, seeded and cut in half 

6 whole limes, peeled, seeded and cut in half 

4 cups lemon Perrier sparkling water 

3 cups organic cane sugar 

¼ cup fresh ginger, diced 

Four 4-ounce Dover sole fillets 

Fleur de sel (sea salt) to taste 

¾ cup salted French butter, tempered 

2 leaves each Fines Herbes for garnish (tarragon, chives, chervil and parsley) 

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 

Method for Lemon-Lime Jam 

In a heavy-duty saucepot over low heat, add lemons, limes, sparkling water, sugar 

and ginger. Cook uncovered for one hour, stirring occasionally. 

Method for Sole 

Season each fillet of sole with salt. In a large piping bag, add the tempered butter and 

pipe over each individual fillet until completely coated. Place the sole in a preheated 

200-degree oven for 8 minutes. Then, remove and let stand for 5 minutes. 

Assembly 

On each serving plate, place one individual fillet of sole and arrange Fines Herbes on 

top of each fillet; then spoon over olive oil and sprinkle with fleur de sel. Place a small 

dollop of Lemon-Lime Jam on the side. 


WHITLEY ON WINE 

SOMM: 

THE MOVIE 

A documentary by Jason Wise follows four 

young sommeliers as they prepare for the 

Master Sommelier (MS) exam. 

By ROBERT WHITLEY 

A 

For most of my professional career, the 

sommelier has been a relic of the past, 

a symbol of that forgotten time when 

only the wealthy ordered fine wine off a 

restaurant wine list and only the stuffiest, 

most image-conscious restaurants 

found it 

n e c e s s a r y 

to employ a certified wine professional 

to cater to their uppercrust 

clientele. restaurant with 

a sommelier was considered by 

most casual wine drinkers to be 

wine snobbery on steroids. 

The world has changed, and so 

has the professional sommelier. 

To some extent much of the 

credit for the change goes to the 

Court of Master Sommeliers, 

which trains, tests and certifies 

sommeliers in four distinct levels 

of expertise and maintains 

the professional standards that 

have shaped the world of the modern sommelier. 

"Somm," the movie, is a documentary by Jason Wise that 

follows four young sommeliers as they prepare for the Master 

Sommelier (MS) exam. "Somm" is now showing in theaters 

around the country and also is available at the iTunes 

store. 

If you have the vaguest interest in wine and dine out with 

any frequency, you need to see this film. Whatever you think 

you know, or could possibly imagine, about the world of the 

professional sommelier, do yourself a favor and check your 

assumptions at the door. The subjects of the documentary 

— Ian, Justin, Brian and JLynn — are ordinary guys with one 

exception: All four have a passion for wine that has morphed 

into obsession, which in turn has inspired their quest to be 

the best they can be at their chosen profession. 

Of the four levels of expertise certified by the Court of Master 

Sommeliers — Level 1, Certified, 

Advanced and Master — 

the Master level is the highest 

and most difficult to achieve. 

Of those who take the Master 

Somm exam, only 3 percent 

pass. There are but 200 or 

so master sommeliers in the 

world. 

The preparation is demanding, 

time consuming, and mentally 

and physically grueling. Most 

sommeliers studying for the 

Master exam do so in teams, 

constantly challenging each 

other to improve their knowledge 

of the subject, their tasting 

skills and their service skills under extreme pressure. 

Many brilliant sommeliers never pass the Master exam despite 

multiple attempts. It's that hard. 

Wise in his documentary follows one such study group. The 

film was three years in the making and made a huge splash at 

the Napa Valley Film Festival earlier this year. The four characters 

are compelling at a very basic human level, while resisting 

the urge to give in to a fear of failure as they immerse 

themselves in what to many might seem to be an impossible 

dream. Master Sommelier Fred Dame, a legendary sommelier 

and one of the testers at the Master exam, is brilliant 

simply being himself. 


“The film is polished and 

sophisticated in the way 

‘Sideways’ never was...” 

The film is polished and sophisticated in the way "Sideways" 

never was, and the characters had the crowd at my screening 

cheering and sighing as the results of the exam were announced. 

"Somm" is entertaining, at times great fun, and, I 

daresay, delivers an important message about the growing 

presence of the modern professional sommelier in the restaurant 

industry. 

photos courtesy of Somm: The Movie 


WINE COUNTRY DESTINATIONS 

The Casa de Piedra and its vineyards 

are situated in geometric rhythm and 

harmony to the vines. It belies the rustic 

farmhouse ambiance, equipped with 

state-of-the-art small capacity stainless 

steel tanks complete with computerized 

processing control, a semi-gravitational 

system and underground caves. Photo by 

John Alongé 


Bottled in Baja 

By John Alongé 

For most people, the allure of visiting 

a great wine country transcends the 

simple pleasure of drinking good wine. 

Rather, it becomes a cultural foray, encompassing 

wine, cuisine, art, architecture 

and, perhaps most important, lifestyles 

of the people that live there. On all these levels, 

a visit to the Guadalupe Valley in Baja, 90 

minutes from the US-Mexico border, is a most 

rewarding wine country experience. 


photos courtesy of LAJA 

Fresh local fish with local produce and olive oil is one of the dishes served at the LAJA, known for light and simple cuisine. (Below) Hugo D’Acosta, 

sometimes called the Mexican Mondavi. 

The wine trail, La Ruta del Vino, is a 14-mile strip that follows 

the valley floor between Ensenada and Tecate along 

Highway 3. The valley, about two-thirds the size of the Napa 

Valley, is surrounded by mountains on three sides and opens 

up to the coastal plain to the west, allowing access to cooling 

ocean breezes. This marine influence is critical in a place 

where the average rainfall is only 7-9 inches a year. Some 

50 wineries share the landscape with rolling vineyards and 

groves of olive trees. Magnificent oaks and wild mustard 

carpet the surrounding hillsides. Most of the roads remain 

unpaved, necessitating a slower pace. 

This seems to fit the nature of the area 

perfectly. 

When Don Miller and his Dutch wife 

Tru first came to the Valle de Guadalupe 

in 1996, it was a very different 

place. Pioneer winemaker Hans Backhoff 

had established his landmark Monte 

Xanic winery in late 1980, not long 

after Mexico had joined the General 

Agreement on Tariffs and Trade, which 

opened Mexico to foreign competitors. 

This put pressure on wineries to produce 

quality wines that could compete 

on an internationally. In 1998, the Millers 

established the Adobe Guadalupe, a 

working winery married to a six-room 

bed and breakfast along with substantial horse stables. The 

striking structure was designed by Persian architect Nassir 

Haghighat to reflect the natural beauty of the surroundings. 

“Monte Xanic made Mexicans into wine drinkers,” Don says. 


“Now, Mexicans visit the Guadalupe Valley the way Americans 

visit the Napa Valley.” 

The Millers have more than 50 acres of vineyard planted 

with11 different grape varieties and produce about 6,000 

cases a year. Their wines are named after archangels (Gabriel, 

Serafiel, Kerubiel, Miguel and Uriel). They are intriguing 

blends made from combinations of classic Bordeaux 

and Rhone varietals along with Tempranillo. The 

results are wines of outstanding depth, variety and complexity. 

It is difficult to have any kind of discussion 

about wine in Mexico without quickly 

encountering the name, Hugo D’Acosta. 

His iconic Casa de Piedra winery, established 

in 1997, has a cult following south 

of the border. There, D’Acosta produces 

small quantities of Piedra de Sol, a vibrant 

white wine made from 100 percent 

Chardonnay with no oak and no malolactic 

fermentation, as well as Vino de Piedra, a 

monumental red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 

and Tempranillo. 

“We are trying to keep the characteristics 

of the land and of the vintage,” says 

D’Acosta. “Casa de Piedra has shown that 

you can produce high quality wine with a 

Baja personality,” he adds. “It’s a matter of understanding 

the vineyard.” 

D’Acosta and his business partners purchased 450 acres in 

the north end of the valley and established a winery there

in 2006 called Paralelo. D’Acosta is also involved in a venture 

producing wines in the Roussillon region in southwest 

France and is busy establishing a Pinot Noir vineyard using 

Burgundy clones at 5,000 feet of altitude elsewhere on the 

Baja peninsula. He also serves as consulting oenologist for a 

number of Guadalupe Valley wineries, including Don Miller’s 

Adobe Guadalupe. 

As if all that weren’t enough, D’Acosta has somehow found 

time to create a revolutionary wine making school, familiarly 

called La Escuelita, in the tiny hamlet of El Porvenir in the 

heart of the valley. The flourishing facility was established 

in 2000 in an abandoned olive oil production facility using 

mostly recycled building materials. The school attracts wine 

enthusiasts from all walks of life who sign up to learn the 

craft of making wine. 

When I ask Hugo how he manages to stay involved in such 

a dizzying array of projects, he pauses for a moment, then 

smiles and says, “You wake up early and go late to bed.” 

Although the subject of wine is at the center of life in the 

“Now, Mexicans visit 

the Guadalupe Valley 

the way Americans 

visit the Napa Valley.” 

winemakers, many of whom have attended Hugo D’Acosta’s 

wine school. 

Whether you would like to enjoy the revelry of a festival in 

the valley, or you prefer to discover its charms in a quieter 

way, a visit is certain to provide you with an unforgettable 

cultural experience. It has been said that the Guadalupe Valley 

is like Napa was 30 or so years ago. Take a trip back in 

time to a warm and hospitable place, just over the border. 

Viva Baja! 

HISTORY 

The Valle de Guadalupe (Guadalupe Valley) is 

named after Our Lady of Guadalupe, a 16th 

century Roman Catholic icon from Mexico. 

The original community of Guadalupe was 

founded in 1834 -- the last of a chain of Dominican 

missions in Baja California. The mission 

was abandoned in 1840 due to constant 

attacks by local Indians. In 1904, a Russian religious 

sect from Los Angeles called the Molokans 

settled in the Valle de Guadalupe. They 

quickly revived the culture of the vine in valley. 

valley, it is paralleled by a vibrant food culture. A tremendous 

variety of fruits and vegetables are cultivated in the 

benevolent Mediterranean climate. Artisan olive oils are 

produced from the local olives and local rustic farm cheeses 

match beautifully with fresh baked bread readily available at 

a number of craft bakeries. Small producers put up and sell 

an array of salsas, jams, jellies, herbs and condiments. The 

tasting room at the Dona Lupe winery at the north end of the 

valley offers an outstanding selection of products made from 

locally grown, organic fruits and vegetables. 

The bounty of local produce and food products has paved the 

way for a number of notable eating establishments within 

the valley. The most famous of these is venerable Laja, the 

creation of chef/owner Jair Téllez. Housed in a free standing 

house with a minimalist interior décor, Laja has received 

countless accolades for its comprehensive local wine list and 

inventive cuisine. The menu is based on fresh seafood from 

Ensenada, valley-raised lamb and quail and locally harvested 

fruits, vegetables and herbs. 

The dining rooms at two of the valley’s inns, Adobe Guadalupe 

and La Villa del Valle, also offer exceptional farm-fresh 

cuisine. Other culinary destinations include Deckman’s, a 

farm-to-table bistro, and the Finca Altozano, celebrity Baja 

chef Javier Plascencia’s working farm. 

There are two annual celebrations that provide the perfect 

opportunity to explore the area. The three-week Fiestas de 

la Vendimia (festival of the grape harvest) in August features 

winemaker dinners in a variety of venues and samplings 

from local restaurants and wineries along with a variety of 

live music performances. The Guateque takes place in June 

and is a festive showplace for hand-crafted wines from grapes 

grown or purchased in Mexico and produced by amateur 


OFFBEAT DESTINATIONS 


NEW CALEDONIA 

& the Isle of Pines 

Stories & Photos By Alison DaRosa 

Tell your friends you’re going to New Caledonia and chances are you’ll be greeted 

with an enthusiastic blank stare. Sounds nice – but where the heck is it? 

New Caledonia 

It’s a bucket list destination – well off the beaten track. But 

next time you’re in Australia or New Zealand, be sure to add 

it to your travel plans. 

New Caledonia is a remote archipelago in the Coral Sea – 

about a three-hour flight northeast of Sydney, Australia, or 

northwest of Auckland, New Zealand. 

It’s probably one of the most bio-diverse destinations on 

Earth – home to tropical rainforests, pristine white sand beaches, 

mineral-rich eerily primeval river valleys and the world’s largest 

lagoon (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). For botany buffs, this 

place is the mothership: It’s home to hundreds of plants and animals 

found nowhere else in the world – many from the late Cretaceous 

period, when dinosaurs ruled. 

It’s also about great beaches, fabulous French food and warm, 

friendly locals. 

CONTINUED NEXT PAGE 

Isle of Pines 

You won’t see a highrise, a stoplight, even a single 

neon sign here. What you will see are pines rising 

beside palms, papaya growing wild, miles of 

powdery white sand beaches and a sea in so many 

shades of blue – from pale turquoise to polished 

lapis, from cerulean to cobalt – that it defies description. 

“I have to dig out my Crayola box to decide what color I’m about 

to float in,” said Marybeth Bond, a San Franciscan snorkeling in 

the placid lagoon that surrounds the island. 

Part of the French territory of New Caledonia, Isle of Pines is a 

25-minute flight southeast of Noumea, situated almost astride 

the Tropic of Capricorn. The island measures 9.3 miles by 8.1 

miles and is home to only about 2,000 people. Native Melanesians 

(or Kanaks) account for about 95 percent of the island’s 

population; they live in eight tribes, each with its own chief. 

CONTINUED PAGE 60 


The People of New Caledonia 

Melanesians were here first. The Kanaks, as they’re called, 

still account for more than 40 percent of the archipelago’s 

population of around 

250,000. Tribes own 

about a third of the land. 

The French came in the latter 

half of the 1800s – prisoners, 

prostitutes, widows and orphans 

mostly. The former penal colony 

remains a French territory. A 

good number of Japanese and 

Indochinese came on contract in 

the 1890s to work New Caledonia’s 

rich nickel mines – which 

still hold about 25 percent of the 

world’s known nickel reserves. 

Americans? More than a million 

spent time here during World 

War II, when New Caledonia 

was an important Allied base. 

These days only about 1,000 

U.S. citizens visit the archipelago each year. 

“Americans come mostly for the diving,” said Jean-Michel Foutrein, 

director of New Caledonia Tourism. “When you dive here, you find 

everything just as it was a thousand years ago – or even 150,000 

years ago. You dive and see no other boats around; you don’t share 

the reef with a thousand other tourists.” 

But even those who don’t dive, 

find plenty to see and do in New 

Caledonia. 

Explore from Noumea 

Noumea, the capital and only 

sizable city, is a good base from 

which to explore the main island, 

Grande Terre. Save time to visit 

some of the other islands in the archipelago, 

including Isle of Pines. 

For early risers, the Noumea Market, 

a short walk from the cruise 

terminal, is a great place to start. It 

opens at 5 a.m. and operates until 

around noon daily. Buy everything 

from smoked sea salt to sarongs, 

from vegetables to videos. “It’s 

also an excellent place to mingle 

with locals,” said guide Francois Tran of Caledonia Tours. 

For a bit of historical perspective, walk a few blocks to the Noumea 

Town Museum, the city’s oldest building (from 1874), steps from 


Noumea Town Square (known locally as Coconut Tree Square). 

Don’t miss the museum’s basement war room for a look at what the 

U.S. did here during World War II. 

About five miles northeast of Noumea, find the Jean-Marie Tjibaou 

Cultural Centre, named for the leader of the Kanak independence 

movement who was assassinated in 1989. Designed by Italian architect 

Renzo Piano, the stunning complex was inspired by Melanesian 

tribal huts. It celebrates Kanak civilization – and in Piano’s words, 

is a place that will “pass on their memory to their grandchildren.” 

Hikers’ paradise 

Hikers will love New Caledonia. At Giant Ferns Park Botanical Reserve 

about 90 minutes north of Noumea, get lost on trails that meander 

around and under giant tree ferns that stretch 60 to 70 feet 

high. 

Or drive about 45 minutes east to the surreal landscape of Blue River 

Provincial Park, where the earth is so iron-rich it has the look of powdered 

rust. Park visitors will find the eerie remains of a rainforest 

that drowned when the Yate River was dammed a half century ago; 

the forest still stands, a haunting dry skeleton of its former self. Visitors 

also find hundreds of plants and animals that date to primeval 

times. 

“The park is a living museum for the old plants of our planet,” said 

tour guide Tran. “Ninety percent of the plants you’ll find here are 

found nowhere else on Earth – because the soil is so alkaline. 

“Not even worms can live in this soil, but carnivorous plants can,” 

he added, demonstrating the predatory mechanics of a carnivorous 

green pod that was growing near a delicate white orchid. 

The region’s fauna are unique, too. The cagou, a flightless bird and 

the country’s emblem, is the fifth rarest bird in the world – with only 

about 800 left in the wild, all in New Caledonia. We spotted two in 

the park. 

The boardwalk 

Back in Noumea, reserve time to walk the boardwalk at sunset. See 

families packing up after a lazy day at the beach; watch men gathering 

hollow metal balls after an afternoon of petanque play; be awed 

by the gravity defying acrobatics of kite surfers. 

Ahhh. Then ponder dinner. French cuisine, of course. 

The Jean-Marie Tjibaou 

Cultural Centre was designed 

by Renzo Piano.On opposite 

page, fresh fruit is center 

stage at the Noumea Market; 

water toys line the beach 

along Noumea bayfront. 

If You Go: New Caledonia 

Getting There: Aircalin, also known as Air Caledonie, is the 

international airline of New Caledonia. It offers flights from LAX, 

SFO (and South Pacific locales) to Tontouta International Airport in 

Noumea. www.aircalin.com 

Staying There: Chateau Royal Beach Resort & Spa. A former Club 

Med reopened in 2011, offers 108 contemporary apartment-style 

units, pool, spa, gym, restaurant, bar, WiFi. Rates start at about 

$260 per night, including breakfast. www.office-tourisme.nc/en/ 

ch%C3%A2teau-royal-beach-resort-spa 

Le Meridien Noumea. 245 rooms, pool, gym, business center, four 

restaurants, bar, free WiFi. Rates start at about $215 per night, including 

breakfast. www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien. 

Guide Service: Francois Tran can be contacted at caledoniatours@ 

lagoon.nc or phone +687 786 838. 

Know Before You Go: The best time to visit is April through December. 

Summer (mid-November through March) temps average 

78-86. Winter (June through August) temps drop to the mid 70s 

during the day, about 60 at night 

New Caledonia uses the French Pacific Franc (XPF). Credit cards 

are accepted by most major retailers; US dollars are not. Don’t be 

surprised to find long lines at Noumea ATMs; machines often run 

out of money by afternoon. 

The official language is French, but English is widely spoken. Tap 

water is generally safe to drink. Tipping is not customary. 

More Info:.www.visitnewcaledonia.com 


the Isle of Pines 

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 57 

Explore the culture 

The Kanaks call their island Kunie. Captain Cook named it Isle of Pines in 

1774 when he first spotted the spires of its native Araucaria pines. 

An island tour doesn’t take long. Vao is the only village – and there’s not 

much to it: a general store, a gas station, a church (built in 1860) and a 

cemetery. The village stages a farmer’s market on Wednesday and Saturday 

mornings. 

There’s no official museum 

here, but visiting the weathered 

wooden totems near St. 

Maurice Beach provides a better 

understanding of the cultural 

diversity of the island. The 

aged tribal carvings surround 

a Roman Catholic monument 

commemorating the first Mass 

on the island. 

Savor the setting 

The main reason people visit 

here is to play: to sink their toes 

into the warm talcum sands of 

the beaches that edge the island, 

to kayak the shades-ofblue 

lagoon that surrounds it, 

to snorkel its colorful reefs full 

of fish found nowhere else on 

Earth. 

Don’t miss an excursion to the 

stunning Nokanhui Atoll – a 

spit of powdery white sand surrounded 

by undulating azure. 

It’s a 25-minute boat ride from 

the mainland – but visitors feel 

a world away, as if they’ve been 

magically plunked onto a South 

Pacific postcard. Stroll the narrow 

spit slowly, allowing its image 

to etch into your mind’s eye 

– for easy recall later, when the 

trials of life intrude. 

Nobody ever wants to leave 

Nokanhui, but departure is 

easier for those who know 

they’re motoring off to Brush 

Island for lunch. While indigenous 

guides grill a feast of 

just-caught fish and huge spiny lobsters, visitors are on their own. They 

stroll the pine-fringed white sand and snorkel among colorful reef residents. 

They stretch out on towels, close their eyes, listen to the gentle tide 

lapping the shore, palm fronds clacking in the warm breeze – the simple 

sounds of paradise. 

“Pinch yourself,” said Bond, breaking the reverie. “This is really real.” 

Weathered totems were erected 

by the ancestors of the eight tribes 

that still populate Isle of Pines. 

On opposite page lunch on Brush 

Island is a seafood feast 


If you go: Isle of Pines 

Getting there: Aircalin provides daily nonstop service linking 

Noumea’s Magenta Airport with Isle of Pines. Flights take about 25 

minutes and roundtrip fares start at about $175. . www.aircalin.com. 

On most Saturdays, Sundays and Wednesdays, the high-speed catamaran 

Betico offers roundtrip ferry service linking Noumea with Isle 

of Pines. The trip takes about 2 hours, 15 minutes each way and runs 

about half the price of air transportation. 

Staying there: Le Meridien Isle of Pines is the most luxurious hotel 

on the island. 50 rooms, pool, full-service spa, complimentary use of 

snorkel gear, restaurant & bar. Rates start at about $375 per night. 

www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien/. 

Playing there: Your hotel can book boat trips to Nokanhui and Brush 

Island. Expect to pay anywhere from about $90 to $110 per person, 

depending on your lunch choice. 

More info: www.isle-of-pines.com. 


READER TRAVEL PHOTOS 

Duncan Moore 

San Diego, CA 

TOP: Visiting the Amber Fort outside 

of Jaipur is a humbling experience. The 

immense size, intricate architecture, 

and amazing views are all overwhelming 

at first. Getting lost in the 16th century 

palace was the highlight of my visit, 

wandering from room to room and 

imagining the ancient rulers that inhabited 

them. I took this picture at midday 

when the sun was at its brightest and 

enhanced the vibrant golden color of 

the fort. 


LEFT: Walking through the congested 

alleys of Old Delhi, the Jama Masjid 

Mosque seems to appear out of nowhere. 

As you step through the gates 

you leave the chaos of Delhi behind and 

enter an oasis of calm. I managed to 

capture these two women just washing 

their hands and talking, taking a 

break from the craziness outside.

Robin Kleven Dishon | San Diego, CA 

I took this candid shot of a just-married couple on a chilly, rainy afternoon 

last October in Paris. Despite temperatures in the 40s, the 

bride wore a sleeveless gown and feathery wrap that contrasted with 

the parkas in the crowd. As they posed for their photographer at the 

Palais de Chaillot – often incorporating the black and white umbrella 

seen behind them – I snapped a few photos and wished them well 

before heading back to the shelter of the metro. (Camera: Canon 

Powershot SD1100) 

Linda Carter | Crawfordville, FL 

Anticipation for this trip was running high. I had finally arrived on my 

first trip to Venice. Boarding the waterbus, I headed for the Westin 

Europe & Regina. The waterbus might well have been my own private 

tour, so many picture-perfect buildings at just the perfect vantage 

point. Finally, standing on the small deck outside on the back, I 

snapped pictures as I passed, including this sightseeing couple on a 

private gondola ride. 

Our readers are traveling the globe recording their adventures 

in surprisingly creative ways. We hope you enjoy them as much 

as we do. If you have a photo you’re proud of it just might be featured 

in our next magazine. Submit a photo and a brief description 

of the shot to photos@winedineandtravel.com. 


ACTION DESTINATIONS 

Hadrian’s Wall 

A Walk Through Time 

By Carl H. Larsen 


Take a hike, I've been told many 

times in my career. So, heading 

into my bucket-list years, 

I decided to take up the advice 

so many have freely rendered. 

Not just any hike. No walk up San Diego County’s Cowles 

Mountain, not an exploration of the Pacific Crest Trail or up 

and down our lovely coastline. 

I wanted something that combined a rich history, a bit of urban grittiness, beautiful 

scenery and bracing, unpredictable weather. 

Throw in a string of fabulous museums, active archeological sites, stubborn cattle 

and sheep and a heavy ration of mud. And, just when things got tough, kick in a 

warm pub with a roaring fireplace. 

So, here I am, back in San Diego, after having walked last October much of the 

Hadrian's Wall Path in northern England, an 84-mile east-west route connecting 

Newcastle on the North Sea with Bowness-on-Solway on the Solway Firth to 

the west. The path follows the line of Hadrian’s Wall, built by the Romans as a 

defensive fortification in A.D. 122. To prove my claim, I returned with a “passport” 

stamped at way stations along the route. 

For my hiking companion, I was picky. I chose friend Tom Olson of La Jolla, a 

precise Ph.D. engineer, who has numerous major-league hiking excursions – several 

in Europe – under his belt, including the famous Pilgrims Trail from southern 

France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. 

Together we polished off 49.2 miles of the 84-mile path, which was a feat since 

the previous week the area had been inundated with the worst rains and flooding 

Above: Hiker Tom Olson prepares to eat 

a hearty dinner at a welcoming pub. Left: 

Near Steel Rigg, photographer Olson 

quashed any notion that this was an easy 

hike. Below: The author surveys what is 

left of one of the milecastles, or gates, in 

the wall. 


“The wall’s construction by Emperor Hadrian 

was an admission by the Romans that 

they would not be able to occupy the entire 

island of Great Britain, as unconquered 

tribes to the north continually 

upset plans for Roman dominance.” 

in 30 years. At night, we found refuge in B&Bs with lovely names 

such as Hadrian's Barn and Walwick Farmhouse in out-of-the 

way places aptly titled Heddon-on-the Wall and Walltown. 

The whole corridor, which comprises the largest visible remnant 

of the Roman Empire, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well. 

Now, I’m no Roman legionnaire, let alone an avid walker, so I 

needed some help early on to move from what had been a longheld 

dream into reality. I had broached the Hadrian idea to Tom 

two years ago and we began the active planning six months before 

departing on our seven-day hike. 

My physical preparation for this effort and sometime ordeal included 

daily half-hour walks around Lake Murray with my wife 

and an early-morning outing each day with a neighbor. 

My first mistake was not securing a sponsor. After scouring local 

outdoors stores, I was festooned with logos -- Eddie Bauer 

(backpack and parka), Ex-Officio (drip-dry underwear), Patagonia 

(socks), Merrell (ever-important boots) and Swissgear (for a 

greatly needed hiking stick). 

Using maps available on Amazon.com, Tom plotted our daily 

walking regimen, mile by mile, familiarizing himself with landmarks, 

hills and the tidal salt flats at the western end of the hike 

near Bowness. 

Our ace up the sleeve would be the Hadrian’s' Wall Country Bus, a 

seasonal service that parallels the route and picks up hikers (and 

stragglers) along the way. 

My job was to secure pre-booked accommodations, generally 

B&Bs. For that, I used Trip Advisor and my maxim: Toss out the 

best and worst evaluations and focus on the mid-range. The hardest 

part about this was to find a B&B located close to where we 

would end each day’s walk. Many of the “mom and pop” B&Bs do 

not take credit cards, so I risked sending a cash deposit in British 

pounds by mail to one. (It arrived safely). Our daily expenses, 

including lodging which included breakfasts, amounted to about 

$125. 

The wall is not evident along the whole route. Parts of it have been 

graded over, while the stone in other lengths has been used by 

successive generations for construction materials. Paydirt came 

on the second day, when we took off from the remnants of Housesteads 

Roman Fort along steep crags, walking for a bit on the 

wall itself -- the only place where this is allowed. 

“Watch what the trail tells you,” Tom advised along the way, as he 

focused on hard-to-see Roman defensive works beyond the wall, 

the marks left by other hikers and the early signs of wash-outs and 

ankle-deep mud just ahead. 

When the wall first reveals itself--and the parallel vellum, or defensive 

trench that adjoins it--one realizes what a herculean engineering 

project this was, and how practiced the Roman surveyors 

were. This stone wall, and the well-trained forces that defended it, 

presented a form of shock and awe to would-be aggressors. 

Museums along the way depicted the full scope of the wall, and the 

numerous forts, villages and outposts that lined the way. At Vindolanda, 

the once-buried Roman fort has been excavated. Here 

was wfound an icon of Britain, the Vindolanda Tablets, which 

amount to thin wood-based postcards written by the Romans 

that have survived in the damp earth. One notes the preparations 


Emperor Hadrian -- the great builder 

for an upcoming birthday party, while another complains of the 

quality of the wine sent to the fort from “back home.” Many can 

be seen at the British Museum in London. 

A few miles west, the Roman Army Museum presents the story 

of the legions that protected the fortification through an excellent 

film “Edge of the Empire.” Not only were Romans guarding 

the walls, but others in their ranks came from Syria or North 

Africa. 

The wall's construction by Emperor Hadrian was an admission 

by the Romans that they would not be able to occupy the entire 

island of Great Britain, as unconquered tribes to the north continually 

upset plans for Roman dominance. Thousands of Roman 

soldiers from today's Europe, the Middle East and North 

Africa were posted along this fortification for a period of about 

400 years. 

Today, as then, borders dominate our political discussion, a 

thought continually presented through this hike. After the Romans 

left, this region endured decades of marauding border 

raiders, both English and Scots, known as the Reivers. 

With the recent agreement by British Prime Minister David 

Cameron and Scottish politician Alex Salmond setting a referendum 

on Scottish independence for 2014, this onetime wild 

border region may again take a front seat in geopolitical terms. 

Heading home, Tom said the hike was more arduous than he 

had expected – “a good walk.” 

Still, we suffered no mishaps and persevered through rain and 


nationalrail.co.uk and www.britrail.com 

Hikers arriving from London can take direct trains to either 

Carlisle or Newcastle. 

Accommodations: 

Newcastle – Premier Inn Newcastle Quayside. The Path runs 

right outside the front door of this reasonably priced riverfront 

hotel in the heart of Newcastle. See www.premierinn.eu/ 

en/hotel/pinn-newcastle 

Heddon on the Wall – Hadrian’s Barn. A bit off the track, this 

is a separate building offering a bathroom, great room with a 

stocked kitchen, and an adjoining bedroom. Hikers cook their 

own breakfast using food in the cupboards and refrigerator. 

www.hadriansbarn.co.uk 

Walwick – Stay at a real working farm along the way. This 

farmhouse has fabulous views over the countryside, a cozy 

lounge and nice bedrooms with shared bathroom. www.walwickfarmhouse.com.uk 

Stones left unturned -- remains of the wall today. 

muck. Help came in many forms -- from the innkeeper who offered 

to launder our mud-caked pants to another who picked us 

up after dinner at a pub. 

But this walk offers something few others can – travel back in 

time to understand a civilization that has shaped ours. 

As Tom says, “Watch what the trail tells you.” 

If you hike the Hadrian’s Wall Path 

There are many Internet resources to help plan a hike along 

Hadrian’s Wall. The first decision to make is whether you want 

to walk from west to east, or east to west, as we did, starting at 

Segundum Roman Fort in Newcastle. 

For information on hiking, accommodation and places to see 

along the Hadrian’s Wall Path, see www.visithadrianswall. 

co.uk. This site has information on accommodation, the trail 

and the handy Hadrian’s Wall Country Bus, a seasonal service 

that runs along the route of the Wall. It also has information 

on baggage courier services that collect baggage from B&Bs 

and hotels and deliver it to your next night’s lodging. That 

way, you only need to walk with those essential provisions 

for a day hike. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the many 

archeological sites and museums along the Path, including 

Segundum, Chester’s Roman Fort, Housesteads Roman Fort, 

and Vindolanda. 

See www.visitbritain.com for events, maps and travel information 

throughout the United Kingdom. 

See www.visitengland.com for detailed information on visits 

to England. 

For information on rail services throughout the UK, see www. 

Walltown – This is a single story B&B in a rural setting just off 

the trail and across the street from the Roman Army Museum, 

a must-see stop for hikers. It is located just to the west of some 

of the most scenic areas of the Wall Path. The Hadrian’s Wall 

Country Bus stops at the driveway and provides direct connection 

to Newcastle, Carlisle and the Haltwhistle train station. 

A restaurant and pub are a 15-minute walk away. www. 

walltownlodge.com 

Carlisle – The County Hotel downtown offers basic, inexpensive 

accommodation in the heart of the city, a short walk 

from the train station with direct rail service to London, and to 

Newcastle, as well as Scotland. www.countycarlisle.com 

Restaurants and pubs: 

Newcastle: The Bascule, Unit 1, St. Peter’s Wharf, Newcastle 

Upon Tyne. A great first stop for hikers starting out from 

Wallsend, a bit to the east, with a large bar and clean restrooms. 

Newcastle: The Quayside. Part of the Wetherspoon chain, this 

restaurant and pub offers great value for money, and is located 

right on the path in central Newcastle. There’s an outside 

dining terrace overlooking the River Tyne. 35-37 The Close, 

Quayside, Newcastle Upon Tyne. 

Heddon-on-the-Wall: The Swan at Heddon. Great meals, with 

an authentic British carvery. The best restaurant we found 

along the Wall Path. The Swan is part of the Great British 

Carvery chain. www.greatbritishcarvery.co.uk/ 

Greenhead. The Greenhead Hotel and Hostel offers a full pub 

and restaurant as well as hotel and hostel accommodation. 

www:greenheadhotelandhostel.co.uk 

Burgh-by-Sands: Greyhound Inn. A great place to celebrate 

after completing your hike if you started in Newcastle. It’s 

midway between Carlisle and Bowness-on-Solway, the end of 

the path. Brush up on your British history, and you’ll know 

why there’s a statue of Edward I right outside. 

PHOTO CREDIT: Carl H. Larsen, Tom Olson 


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