PRAGUE

12 HOLIDAYS
Christmas in Prague can be a beautiful thing. If you are lucky
to see a snowfall, the city will momentarily be cleansed in
pure beauty. A couple hours later; it’s all brown slush, but at
least you had your moment. Get into the true Christmas spirit
with a visit to one of the city’s Christmas markets. You’ll learn
how in this month’s Pocket Watch on P. 51.
Christmas in the Czech Republic is celebrated on 24
December. If you can fast all day, you’ll see a golden pig.
This is actually a reward for your stamina as it’s said to bring
good luck. Dinner itself will be a meal of fish soup, fried carp
and potato salad. After dinner, gifts, brought by Baby Jesus,
are exchanged. About a week before Christmas, another
“decoration” appears on the street corners: big tubs of water
filled with fish, convenient for the purchase of your Christmas
dinner. You’ve got a couple options here. The friendly fish
seller will kindly perform the death duty for you; or brave
souls can do it themselves later. Many a carp are kept in
the bathtub for a few days prior to Christmas. Alternatively,
celebrate the true spirit of Christmas by purchasing a fish
and releasing him into the Vltava. Whichever route you take,
be sure to hang onto a fish scale. Placing one in your wallet
ensures you’ll have money there throughout the year as well.
Almost as much fun as Christmas is St. Nicholas Day on 5
December. Wander the streets this evening and you’ll be
in the company of angels, devils and St. Nicholas.’ Usually
travelling in groups of 3, they visit children, bringing oranges
and sweets to the good ones, and coal and potatoes to the
ones who need some behaviour modification in the coming
year. The trio (and most adults) usually winds up in a pub so
don’t be surprised to share your table with the devil.
Prague’s musical heritage comes alive during the holidays.
Take in a special Christmas concert – you’ll be glad you did.
6 December
Christmas Music by Stecker & Ryba, 14:00
National Theatre, Praha 1, Národní 2, www.narodni-divadlo.cz
8 December
Handel’s Messiah, Prague Symphony Orchestra, 19:30
Church of St. Simon & St. Jude, Praha 1, Dusní Street,
www.fok.cz
12, 22, 27 December
The Nutcracker – A Christmas Carol, Ballet, 18:00
14, 21 December
The Nutcracker – A Christmas Carol, Ballet,19:00
National Theatre, Praha 1, Národní 2, www.narodni-divadlo.cz
13, 20 December
Advent Concert, 14:00
National Theatre, Praha 1, Národní 2, www.narodni-divadlo.cz
13 December
The Miracles of Mary by Martinů, 19:00
National Theatre, Praha 1, Národní 2, www.narodni-divadlo.cz
19, 20 December
Christmas Concert with Helena Vondráčková, 19:00
Lucerna, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, www.lucerna.cz
25 December
Christmas Music
State Opera, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, www.opera.cz
25 December
Christmas Concert with Prague Symphony Orchestra,
16:00
Church of St. Simon & St. Jude, Praha 1, Dusní Street,
www.fok.cz
26 December
Czech Christmas Mass with Audience Singalong, 16:00
Church of St. Simon & St. Jude, Praha 1, Dusní Street,
www.fok.cz
Looking for a place for a nice Christmas dinner? Here are
a few suggestions. Be sure to call ahead to make your
reservation though.
Coda Restaurant, inside the Aria Hotel. Praha 1,
Trziste 9, 225 33 41 11, www.codarestaurant.cz
Essensia, inside the Mandarin Oriental. Praha 1,
Nebovidská 1, 233 08 88 88, www.mandarinoriental.
com
CzecHouse, inside the Hilton Prague. Praha 8,
Pobřežní 1, 224 84 20 09, www.hiltonprague.cz
V Zátiší, Praha 1, Liliová 1, 222 22 11 55, wow.
zatisigroup.cz
Vltava, inside Hotel President. Praha 1, Nám.
Curieových 100, 234 61 41 11, www.hotelpresident.cz
New Year’s Eve
Prague’sters truly celebrate the passing of the old year.
Or perhaps they are thrilled with the upcoming one.
Either way, it’s an excellent time to be in town as there is
something on tap for everyone. If insane crowds scare you,
avoid Wenceslas Square when the clock strikes midnight.
Otherwise just about every bar, pub and restaurant will have
some sort of doing going on. That being said, it’s smart to
get your act together and plan early. Reservations must be
made and prices rise as the day nears. Fireworks light up
the sky at midnight, so if you can, get yourself somewhere
up high and with a view of Prague Castle.
If you are looking for a cultural end to 2009, both the Czech
Philharmonic (www.ceskafilharmonie.cz) and the State Opera
(www.opera.cz) will be performing tonight.
Want to dance your way into 2010? Check out the offerings
on at Lucerna Music Bar (www.musicbar.cz), Roxy (www.
roxy.cz), Aloha (alohapraha.cz), Futurum (www.musicbar.
cz/futurum), Mecca (www.mecca.cz) or Matrix (www.
matrixklub.cz).
Jazz aficionados will want to reserve a table at Agharta (www.
agharta.cz) or Reduta (www.redutajazzclub.cz), while those
looking for something a little heavier will want to check out
the rock music at Vagon (www.vagon.cz), Rock Café (www.
rockcafe.cz) or Palác Akropolis (www.palacakropolis.cz).
For a special dining experience, check out La Provence (www.
kampagroup.com), U Fleků (www.ufleku.cz), Novoměstsky
pivovar (www.npivovar.cz) or the Buddha Bar (www.
cpihotels.cz).
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
The joy of Central Europe at Christmas is the traditional
holiday markets. While the most well-known are in
Germany and Austria, our markets aren’t anything to sniff
at. If you are looking for traditional items to take home
as souvenirs or gifts, most will be found at the Christmas
markets. Wooden toys, garnet jewellery, crystal vases,
porcelain and ceramics are good authentic Czech gifts.
For those with differing tastes, Czech beer or Becherovka,
an herbal liquor, will be happily consumed. While typical
tourist items of magnets, beer steins and mugs can be
found at a few too many booths, there are some truly
unique Czech goodies to be had. Make a day of it; Prague
is compact enough to visit quite a few markets on the
same day, especially as there are only two big ones. These
are the ones located at Old Town Square and Wenceslas
Square by Můstek. Organized by the same company,
you’ll probably see a lot of the same items. Specialties
to check out are the painted wooden Santa’s and other
Christmas figures, decorated gingerbread, cornstalk
figures, hand-stitched tablecloths as well as the wooden
or metal mind puzzles. Perfect for those who like that type
of amusement, or for those you aren’t particularly fond of.
The markets at Náměstí Míru and Palackého náměstí are
organized by a different company, so you’ll spot some new
vendors. Do visit Náměstí Míru; handmade jewellery and
homemade soaps make for lovely gifts. Don’t forget, you
don’t have to shop to have fun. Hot mulled wine and grog
will keep you toasty warm, all the squares are beautifully
decorated and often musical performances are available
for your listening pleasure.
Yes, it’s cold. It’s Prague. If you prefer a more climate
controlled shopping experience, have we got the malls
for you. Biggest is Palladium at Náměstí Republiky with
five floors filled with more than 200 shops, restaurants
and entertainment venues. International names like Body
Shop, C&A, Espirit, Lacoste, Sony Ericsson and Villeroy &
Boch means you really will find something for everyone.
They’ve got a good selection of restaurants (El Emir for
prague.inyourpocket.com
HOLIDAYS
Lebanese food and Taboo Café for when you need a little
sit-down) and interesting gourmet food shops, so it’s worth
a visit if you’ve got the shopping bug and the weather
isn’t cooperating.
Other city centre malls include Kotva, practically across the
street to Palladium. Its building is historically preserved,
so be sure to admire its uniqueness. Along Na příkopě are
a variety of indoor shopping centres, the best of which is
Slovanský dům. A short metro ride away, both Palác Flora
and Nový Smíchov offer a good variety of shops in a more
manageable setting compared to Palladium. Plus, there’s a
small Christmas market near Nový Smíchov.
If you’re looking for something indoors but not so
commercial, Prague has a variety of distinctive shops.
For the youngest people on your list, visit Art Décor for
handmade textiles and softly stuffed animals. It’s not the
easiest thing to buy as a gift, but a visit to Galerie La Femme
may add to your own collection if nothing else. The gallery’s
art is devoted to women, whatever expression that may
be. Paintings, statues and glass are all on offer. Qubus is
one of the most interesting ceramic design shops in town.
It’s a funky place, worth a visit even if ceramic Wellington
boots doubling as vases aren’t on your list. Cellarius is
one of the best wine shops in town. Offering an extensive
collection of Czech and imported wines, the selection and
staff knowledge make this an important stop for the wine
lover’s on your list.
Prague Christmas Markets
Old Town Square 1 Dec - 1 Jan
Wenceslas Square 1 Dec - 1 Jan
Palackého náměstí 20 Nov -24 Dec
Náměstí Míru 20 Nov - 24 Dec
Prague Malls
Palladium Náměstí Republiky 1, Praha 1
Slovanský dům Na příkopě 22, Praha 1
Černá Růže Na příkopě 12, Praha 1
Palác Flora Vinohradská 151, Praha 3
Nový Smíchov Plzeňská 8, Praha 5
Centrum Chodov Roztylská 19, Praha 4
Other Shops
Art Décor Ovocný trh 12, Praha 1
Galerie La Femme Bílkova 2, Praha 1
Qubus Rámová 3, Praha 1
Cellarius Štěpánská 61, Praha 1
December 2009 - January 2010
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