PRAGUE

54 WHAT TO SEE
Kampa Museum B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,
tel. (+420) 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz.
Museum Kampa is located on the west bank of the Vltava in
the shadow of Prague Castle. The museum has on display
three major permanent exhibitions, featuring works by the
pioneering abstract artist František Kupka, Cubist sculptor
Otto Gutfreund and a large collection of modern works dating
from the 1950’s to present day by Central European artists.
They also have temporary exhibits. The museum has a beautiful
restaurant with an outside terrace overlooking the river.
A visit to Museum Kampa is definitely worthwhile. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Admission varies according to exhibition.
Langhans Galerie I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37,
MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 92 93 33, www.langhansgalerie.cz.
The sleek lined, clean-cut minimalism of
a award-winning symbiosis of old and new architecture is
complemented beautifully by the photographic exhibitions
hanging on its walls. Behind the Foto Škoda store, which in
itself is a museum of old and new cameras. QOpen 12:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60/20Kč.
Leica Gallery Praha 1, Školská 28, MMůstek, tel.
(+420) 608 96 35 24, www.lgp.cz. Their new Gallery will
be open again on 7 May. Check out their cafe, bookshop, and
of course some of the best photo exhibits in town. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Mánes Exhibition Hall G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo
nábřeží 250, tel. (+420) 224 93 0 7 54, www.nadacecfu.cz.
A major exhibition space for all forms of modern
and contemporary art from the Czech Art Fund Foundation.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Miniatures Museum Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 11,
tel. (+420) 233 35 23 71, www.muzeumminiatur.com.
This museum contains odd scribblings on grains of rice, the
Lord’s Prayer written on one human hair, the world’s smallest
book, and minitures of masterpieces. They have magnifying
glasses. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Kč.
Mozart Museum (Bertramka) Praha 5, Mozartova
169, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 31 67 53, www.bertramka.cz.
This museum, dedicated to the Austrian Wunderkind
and the family he lived with in Prague, is located in
a 17th century villa. The villa, owned by the Dušek family, is
where Mozart wrote Don Giovanni. There’s a bust of the
famed composer in the villa gardens, and music scores and
concert posters are preserved inside. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00.
Admission 110/50Kč.
Mucha Museum F-4, Praha 1, Panská 7, MMůstek,
tel. (+420) 221 45 13 33, www.mucha.cz. Mucha shaped
the Art Nouveau movement with his groundbreaking (and
often stolen from Paris’ streets) posters for actress Sarah
Bernhardt and the Theatre de la Renaissance, and has
some renown as a photographer with the studies for his
various masterpieces. He also has an excellent shot of a
trouserless Paul Gauguin at a harmonium. A fitting tribute to
artistic genius, whether you prefer his pastel seasons, the
accusing desperation of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and
huge magnum opus of which there are strangely no photos),
or modern prints on everything from coasters to mousepads.
Don’t miss the short biographical film. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 120Kč.
www.inyourpocket.com
Museum of Communism F-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10,
tel. (+420) 224 21 29 66, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz.
The posters featuring the workers of the state, featuring a mix
of socialist-realism which produces simultaneous hilarity and
dark brooding, are almost worth the entrance fee on their own.
Errant and erratic household objects can give this place an
incomplete feel, however, the photos and historical information
on display are a minimalist introduction to the events of
this period. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 180Kč.
Muzeum Karlova Mostu (Charles Bridge Museum)
D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnické nám. 3, MStaroměstská, tel.
(+420) 739 30 95 51, www.muzeumkarlovamostu.cz.
This new museum, opened to coincide with the 650th anniversary
of the building of Charles Bridge in 1357 (the clever
number logo is no coincidence, 135797531. The first stone
was laid at 05:31 on 9 July). English texts are available to
explain the unique Knights of the Red Cross hospital location,
their church and crypt, various bridges; an arch and pillar of
the even older (1158 - 1172) Judit Bridge, and others in the
region, construction techniques, etc. Charles Bridge, with its
statues and history, is the focus but there is so much more.
Fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. 150/70Kč.
National Museum (Národní muzeum) F-4, Praha
1, Václavské nám. 68, tel. (+420) 224 49 71 11,
www.nm.cz. Permanent exhibitions include pre-historical,
mineralogical, palaeontological, zoological, and there is a
good collection of bronze statues of famous Czechs is in the
pantheon of the building. One of the most celebrated buildings
in Prague, but its exhibits are not nearly as impressive.
QOpen 9:00 - 17:00, Wed 9:00 - 20:00. Closed every first
Tue of the month. Admission 150/100Kč.
Robert Guttmann Gallery (Jewish Museum) E-2,
Praha 1, U Staré školy 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420)
221 71 15 11, www.jewishmuseum.cz. As synagogues
and prayer rooms began to be demolished by Prague’s municipal
offices at the end of the 19th century, the Czech-Jewish
community applied their vigour to creating a Jewish Museum
wherein ritual objects could be saved from destruction and
kept for future generations. Thus, in 1906 Prague’s Jewish
Museum began with a modest collection. Today, it is celebrating
its centenary with an exhibit here entitled Defying the
Beast (until 1 Oct). The museum is closed on Jewish holidays
too. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 40/20Kč.
Rudolfinum D-2, Praha
1, Alšovo nábř . 12,
MStaromětská, tel. (+420)
227 05 92 05, www.galerierudolfinum.cz.Commissioned
as concert halls and
exhibition space and named
after the Austrian Prince Royal
who attended the opening in 1885, this is now home to
the Czech Philharmonic and an exhibition space. With no
permanent collection, the gallery is dedicated to temporary
exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Thu 10:00 - 19:30. Closed
Mon. Admission 120/60Kč. U
Smetana Museum C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka
1, tel. (+420) 222 22 00 82, www.nm.cz. Classical appreciation
goes high tech. When you point the special laser
conductor’s baton at music stands in this museum, excerpts
from Smetana’s works come to life. Bedřich Smetana was a
Czech symphonic poet, whose masterpiece was the nationalistic
My Fatherland, which includes a musical ode to the
Vltava. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00&12:30-17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 50/20Kč.
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
Stone Bell House (Dům u kammenného zvonu)
E-3, Praha 1, Staromětská nám. 13, MStaromětská, tel.
(+420) 222 32 76 77, www.citygalleryprague.cz. The
oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years behind a neo-
Baroque facade, has been superbly restored and now houses
commendable art exhibitions run by the City Gallery of Prague.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.
The Chemistry Gallery K-5, Praha 2, U Kanálky 4,
MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 773 58 80 75, info@
thechemistry.cz, www.thechemistry.cz. A funky reconverted
flat is home to a cool new gallery. See art, buy art,
The Chemistry Gallery is dedicated to promoting young
contemporary artists of all genres. An ambitious rotating
schedule of events means the work is always fresh and
creative. QOpen, Wed, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Torture Museum B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 21, tel.
(+420) 603 88 93 61. Medieval torture instruments from
all parts of Europe. Take the kids to show them how nice you
actually are. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 120/100Kč.
Transport Museum Praha 6, Patočkova 4, MHradcanská,
tel. (+420) 296 12 49 00, www.dpp.cz/muzeummhd.
See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from
the glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read
the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings,
maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly
from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the
castle and Václavské náměsti. Q Open Sat, Sun and public
holidays only 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 35/20.
Troja Chateau Praha 1, U
trojského zámku 1, MNádraží
Holešovice, tel. (+420) 283
85 16 14, www.citygalleryprague.cz.
A grand 17th century
summer palace built for Count
Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja
has French gardens littered with
Baroque sculptures right on the
river below the Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was
originally situated here to be opposite Stromovka royal game
preserve (now Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today by a
pedestrian bridge, but be warned it is no short walk to the closest
tram stop once you start. Jean-Baptiste Mathey designed the
palace, which Šternberg spared no expense on. Its most striking
feature is the external double staircase ornamented by statues
of Titanic struggles with Olympian gods. The interior is no less
impressive with magnificent vaulted ceilings, paintings, sculptures,
murals and frescoes - especially the giant, florid tribute to a
Hapsburg victory in the Grand Hall. After major reconstruction of
the house and garden in 1998, the Chateau became an annex
of the City Gallery, housing a collection of Baroque glass and a
collection of 19th century Czech paintings. Troja was hard hit in the
2002 floods, but the gardens and house are back in their former
glory. From the metro, hop on tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská or bus
112 to the Zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission
120/60Kč, gardens free.
Veletržní Palace (National Gallery) I-1, Praha 7,
Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. (+420) 224 30
11 11, www.ngprague.cz. The stunning modernist Veletržní
Palace houses the National Gallery’s collection of modern and
contemporary art, including works by Klimt and Frank Gehry.
The building is so big that they split entrance fees by how
many of its three floors you wish to visit. Tram N°5,12,17 to
Veletržní. The space also hosts concerts now. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 160/80.
prague.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
Vítkov Memorial
High on a hill is a massive equestrian statue. Making
your way up that hill is inviting for a number of reasons.
While a better jaunt in the summer, the views of Prague
are still lovely and the park surrounding the memorial is
a decent stroll. The statue is that of Hussite leader Jan
Žižka. It took sculpter Bohumil Kafka about ten years to
complete the 16 ton, nine metre high statue. The mass
of marble was originally built in the early 1930s as the
National Liberation Memorial to honour those who fought
for the birth of the Czechoslovak Republic. After 1948,
it became more of a monument to Communism, with a
variety of Party leaders having their remains kept there.
After 1989, the remains were removed and the building
basically fell off the map. In 2001, the memorial was
transferred to the National Museum who thought long
and hard what to do with it. After two years of reconstruction,
the building is finally open to the public. You can tour
the ceremonial hall, visit the new café and even climb
atop the building to the impressive viewing platform.
A new permanent exhibition has been installed, Crossroads
of Czechoslovakia. This multimedia exhibit highlights
important “crossroad” years throughout the country’s
history: 1918 and the creation of Czechoslovakia; the
Munich Accords from 1938; Communist coup of 1948;
Prague Spring in 1968 and the Velvet Revolution of 1989.
A separate room offers rotating exhibition space. Currently
on is Prague Castle Photographs Archive 1918-1933.
Vítkov Memorial, Praha 3, U Památníku 1900,
222 78 16 76, www.nm.cz. Closed Mondays.
Take bus 175 or 133 from the Florenc metro station to
Tachovské náměstí. Cross the street and head through
the tunnel, into the park and up the hill.
City tours
Cityrama Prague I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 21, tel. (+420)
222 23 02 08, 602 218 469, fax (+420) 222 23 24 29,
office@cityrama.cz, www.cityrama.cz. Explore the Golden
Heart of Europe with various sightseeing tours in Prague and
beyond. The City Tour (daily 09:30 and 14:00) joins boat tours,
night explorations, excursions around the country and the
region. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A
Martin Tour I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 61, tel. (+420) 224
21 24 73, fax (+420) 224 23 97 52, www.martintour.
cz. Their short city bus tour starts at 250Kč per person.
Prague Sightseeing Tours I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská
52, tel. (+420) 222 31 46 61/(+420) 602 37 55 52, fax
(+420) 222 31 80 17, www.pstours.cz. City tours, boat
trips and excursions. Q A
December 2009 - January 2010
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