PRAGUE

52 WHAT TO SEE
Jewish Prague
Prague's Jewish community was one of the oldest in
Europe, and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the
story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a
millennium ago.
The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781
when Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which permitted
the free exercise of religion and the secularisation
of education, science and art. The Jewish town is called
Josefov to this day in his honour.
From the 1880s, in the name of slum-clearing, most
of Josefov was razed to the ground and only a few
synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town hall
remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau
buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement
buildings.
Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague's Jewish
legacy, saving the monuments as their planned epitaph
to a vanished culture. The post-war communists did little
to alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jewish
inhabitants chose to emigrate.
Jewish Museum (Židovské muzeum) E-2, Praha
1, U Staré školy 1, tel. (+420) 221 71 15 62, www.
jewishmuseum.cz. The starting point for an exploration of
Prague's Jewish past and present. Unfortunately, the idea
for a museum encompassing the Jewish Quarter is not
new. The reason that the main buildings and cemetery in
the Jewish Quarter are still intact, is that Hitler intended to
transform the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished culture.
The Jewish Museum supervises the Old Jewish Cemetery,
the Old Ceremonial Hall, and the Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel
and Spanish Synagogues, but not the Old New Synagogue,
although you can buy a combined ticket for entry to all. The
high admission price causes many budget-conscious visitors
turn away at the gates, but despite this, you'll need to
go early to avoid the crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed
Sat. Admission 300/200Kč for all sights.
Klausen Synagogue (Klausenová synagoga) D-2,
Praha 1, U Starého hřbitova 3A. A Judaic Baroque building
which houses a permanent exhibition showing Jewish
customs and traditions - and the occasional art exhibition.
Next door is the Ceremonial Hall.
Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova synagoga) E-2, Praha
1, Maiselova 10. Maisel Synagogue is home to a large collection
of silverware, previously confiscated from Jewish families
by the Nazis. Their permanent exhibition, The History of Jews
in Bohemia and Moravia, is definitely worth a visit.
Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) D-2,
Praha 1, Široká 3. The walls inside Pinkas Synagogue
are chillingly covered with the names of 77,297 Jewish
Holocaust victims from Bohemia and Moravia. There is also
a permanent exhibition of children's drawings from Terezin
concentration camp, drawn between 1942 and 1944.
Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov)
D-2, Praha 1, Široká 2, (entrance from Pinkas Synagogue).
From the 14th century until 1747, this was the final
resting place for Prague's Jewish community; some 12,000
graves are said to be piled one on top of the other. Oldest
and most famous is that of Rabbi Loew, which is the grave
with the most pebbles piled on top of it - a Jewish tradition.
To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover their heads;
kippas are provided at the entrance.
Spanish Synagogue (Španělská synagoga) E-2,
Praha 1, Dušní 12. This neo-Moorish structure was
built in 1868 to replace the previously demolished Old
Synagogue. It is a beautiful building outside and in, with a
domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and stained glass. Restored
in 1998, the synagogue houses an exhibition on the history
of Czech Jews.
Old New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga) E-2,
Praha 1, Červená 2. Of all the synagogues in Prague, this
is perhaps the most important. It has stood here since
the 13th century, and despite fires, floods and the Nazi
occupation, remains today the functional, spiritual centre
of the Jewish community. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Fri 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 200Kč.
High Synagogue (Vysoká synagoga) E-2, Praha 1,
Červená 4. The High Synagogue is no longer open to the
public. It is next to the Old New Synagogue - note the clock
on the façade of the pink building next door; it has Hebrew
numbers and turns counter-clockwise.
New Jewish Cemetery (Židovské hřbitovy)
Praha 3, Vinohradská, MŽelivského, tel. (+420)
272 74 18 93. Much larger and much less visited than
the Old Town Cemetery. Founded in 1890, it has some
impressive graves from the early 1900s. Franz Kafka is
buried at grave N°137.
Žižkov Jewish Cemetery
Prague 3, Fibichova.
Only a peaceful small
corner remains of this Jewish
cemetary at the foot
of the TV tower. Originally
a plague cemetary established
well away from the
city limits in 1680, 40,000
people were buried here until 1890. Baroque, Empire and
Romantic style tombstones survived the ages. Q Open
Tue & Thu 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 20Kč.
Jubilee Synagogue (Jubilejní synagoga) I-4, Praha
1, Jeruzalémská 1310/7, tel. (+420) 222 31 90 02.
The newest, biggest, and arguably most spectacular of
Prague’s synagogues, the Jubilee Synagogue is so called
because it was decided upon on the 50th anniversary of
the accession of Franz Joseph I. Built in pseudo-Moorish
style and dedicated on 16 Sept 1906 during the festival
of Simhat Torah, the synagogue has a service on Sat at
09:00 and is open to visitors from 23 Apr - 31 Oct from
13:00 - 17:00 (except Saturdays).
Prague's Schindler
Three trainloads of Jewish children were able to escape
from German-occupied Prague in the spring and summer
of 1939, before war broke out, thanks to the efforts of the
man dubbed (post-Spielberg, of course) the Schindler of
Prague. Bill Barazetti, together with a British stockbroker,
arranged papers and transport for three trainloads of
children - the Kindertransporte - to leave the city and
travel via the Netherlands to safety in London. A fourth
train left Prague on the eve of the war but it never reached
the Netherlands and was not heard of again. In August
1939 Barazetti fled to Britain, but it was 50 years before
his story became known.
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
DOX Centre for Contemporary Art Praha 7, Osadní
34, tel. (+420) 224 93 09 27, info@doxprague.org,
www.doxprague.org. Opened in October 2008; DOX is
sure to make a splash on Prague’s still burgeoning contemporary
art scene. The building itself is amazing - a mix of old
metal factory and new build right in the heart of industrial
Holešovice. Organizers plan to showcase present contemporary
art from around the world; as well as offer exposure
to Czech contemporary artists. QOpen, Mon, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Adults: 120kč
Children: 80kč.
Dvořák Museum I-6, Praha 2, Ke Karlovu 20, tel.
(+420) 224 92 33 63, www.nm.cz. The Dvořák Museum
is housed in the so-called Villa America, a Baroque summer
palace designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who was also
responsible for the beautiful St. Nicholas Church in Malá
Strana. This museum houses a good collection of memorobilia
from the life and work of Dvořák, the Czech composer famous
for the New World Symphony, among others. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40Kč.
Dvorak Sec Contemporary E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá
5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 604 20 46 53, info@
dvoraksec.com, www.dvoraksec.com. In addition to
displaying their own collections, the new gallery space in
Old Town offers young and emerging artists as well as more
established international artists. Their newly reconstructed
building is an amazing space in itself. QOpen 9:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Futura Praha 5, Holečkova 49, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 251
51 18 04, www.futuraproject.com. This non-profit gallery
was opened in June 2003 to provide an accessible space for
contemporary art. Three floors of a renovated factory. Tram
4, 7, 9, 10 to Bertramka. Q Open Wed - Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské
náměstí 5a, tel. (+420) 222 22 21 57, www.gjf.cz. An
exhibition hall showcasing, for the most part, the artistic elements
of architecture. The gallery works in partnership with
the Czech Architecture Foundation and exhibits fine examples
of groundbreaking Czech and international architectural marvels.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20.
Galerie La Femme E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 2,
MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 26 56, www.glf.
cz. A small but fully laden gallery celebrating woman as eternal
inspiration, although the myriad pieces hanging, stacked or
free standing have subjects beyond women. Vibrant oils,
tactile sculptures, evocative sketches, international exhibitions
and more make La Femme a place to explore and buy.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Galerie MIRO Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel.
(+420) 233 35 40 66, www.galeriemiro.cz. In St. Rocha
Church and host to contemporary and classical artists including
Goya, Dalí, Chagnall, Warhol and Picasso. A privately
owned gallery and on the tourist trail between the castle and
Strahov monastery. Tram N°22 or 23 to Pohořelec. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00.
Galerie Václava Špály Praha 1, Národní 30, MMůstek,
tel. (+420) 224 94 67 38, www.spalovka.cz. The Galerie
Václava Špály is once again open to the public and promising
the same prestigious exhibitions it was once renowned for.
Špála was a Czech avant-garde painter from the early 20th
century. The museum’s heyday was in the late 60’s-early
70’s, and again after 1989. The beginning of the new century
saw a change in management and vision. Now, it’s back and
prague.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
the art scene will be richer for it. Expect a wide-variety of
contemporary art from both foreign and local artists. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/10Kč.
Historical Museum A-1, Praha 1, Pražský hrad, Jiřská
3, tel. (+420) 257 53 59 79, www.nm.cz. Lobkovický
Palac, in the castle area, dates back to the 9th century and
the origins of the castle itself. The palace, which was restored
during the Renaissance, now houses the Historical Museum,
which, as its name implies, gives a detailed history of the
country until 1848. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 40Kč.
Historical Pharmacies Exposition A-1, Praha 1,
Nerudova 32, tel. (+420) 257 53 15 02. This expo does
exactly what it says on the label - a somewhat diminutive collection
of jars, scales, pictures and exhibits revolving around
medical treatments from the 19th century. The lovely ladies
working here will often follow you about and add commentary
as they see fit. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 20/10Kč.
House at the White Unicorn (Dům u bílého
jednorožce) E-3, Praha 1, Staromestské nám. 15,
MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 39 09, www.
daliexhibition.cz. This central exhibition space caters to the
big names, and not only in Czech art. Much to the delight of
the world’s moustache aficionados, this house is exhibiting
a selection of graphics, sculpture and pottery from Salvador
Dali. Another area is dedicated to Alfons Mucha, the master
of Art Nouveau while a neighbouring house (E-3, Praha 1,
Celetná 9, tel. 222 31 30 64) hosts a selection of images
from the infamous photographer Jan Saudek. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00. Admission 150/70Kč. Saudek & Mucha 150/70Kč
or 250/120Kč combined ticket.
Jewellery Collection C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, tel.
(+420) 221 45 13 33. The Hergetova cihelna (brickyard
building) near Karlův most, houses an exhibition from the
collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts. This incredible
array of pieces illustrating the the art of jewellery design from
the 17th century includes items from Fabergé and Tiffany.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Jiří Světská Gallery J-3, Praha 1, Biskupský dvůr 6,
MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 10 92, www.
jirisvestka.com. A private gallery that promotes modern
and contemporary art in the Czech Republic and internationally
and has garnered renown by introducing Czech artists to
major galleries overseas. In addition to their collections, and
exhibitions, it has a large collection of art periodicals plus art
and architectural titles in Czech and English. Q Open 12:00 -
18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun & Mon.
Kafka Museum C-2, Praha
1, Hergetova Cihelna, Cihelná
2b, tel. (+420) 257 53
55 07, www.kafkamuseum.
cz. This new collection entitled
The City of K. Franz Kafka and
Prague opened in Barcelona
in 1999, transferred to the
Jewish Museum in New York in 2002 and opened in Prague
in the summer of 2005. This museum illuminates the crucial
relationship between the man and the city. It is divided into
Existential Space where we see what Prague did with and
to Kafka, and Imaginary Topography which looks at how
Kafka creates enigmatic layers of his city through first editions
and letters, diaries and manuscripts, and audiovisual pieces.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120/60Kč.
December 2009 - January 2010
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