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38 CAFÉS<br />

Bresto Prague 1, Štěpánská 31, MMůstek, tel. (+420)<br />

222 21 28 10. New teeny tiny cafe and wine bar. Early hours<br />

make it nice for a pastry and coffee, stop by at lunch for one of<br />

their freshly made sandwiches and in the evening choose from<br />

their extensive wine selection. And what welcoming staff we have!<br />

QOpen 7:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 22:00. (50-200kč). J<br />

Café Imperial I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 15, MNám. Republiky,<br />

tel. (+420) 246 01 14 40. After a long facelift,<br />

the landmark Imperial has reopened with the Art Nouveau<br />

tiles and wood carvings still in situ within the high ceiling-ed<br />

rooms. The stale donuts have sadly not reappeared but the<br />

beautiful and historic space is well worth visiting for breakfast,<br />

a sandwich or meal (chef Zdeněk Pohlreich hails from the<br />

Radisson SAS Alcron and Marriott), although reviews have<br />

been hit and miss. A decent cocktail list will keep you here<br />

late. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (130 - 400Kč). PA<br />

Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 22, MNárodní třída,<br />

tel. (+420) 224 93 09 49, www.cafelouvre.cz. In true French<br />

style, this historic café is for anything but bourgeois tastes.<br />

Café Louvre is a true slice of Czech life where a great breakfast<br />

is served that one can enjoy with an international newspaper.<br />

Whether you want to play a game of pool in the swank billiard hall<br />

or indulge in some fresh pastries over coffee, this is the perfect<br />

place to have a great café experience. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30,<br />

Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). PTAG<br />

Café Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel.<br />

(+420) 257 31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored<br />

grand café dating back to 1893 with a particularly stunning<br />

neo-Renaissance ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order<br />

food from the café menu with traditional Czech dishes or from<br />

the more elaborate French gourmet menu. Don’t skip the<br />

pastries and cakes that are made on the premises though.<br />

Great for a lazy breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300Kč). AP<br />

Coffee Fellows E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 20,<br />

MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 02 00, www.coffeefellows.cz.<br />

Famous for their pastries, tea, coffee and syrups.<br />

Sandwiches, bagels, cookies etc. all vie for your attention but<br />

try the caramel slice for a taste of heaven with some toffee<br />

mixed in. Seating is high and low, the few armchairs have<br />

their backs to the room and the banquette seating proves a<br />

tad uncomfortable. There is little privacy too, but it is tasty.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PABW<br />

Coffeeheaven E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 1,<br />

MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 19 67, www.<br />

coffeeheaven.cz. While Starbucks is snoozing in Seattle, a<br />

cunning Polish franchise outfit has sneaked a large number<br />

albeit somewhat faceless cafés into Prague. The coffee<br />

comes in paper cups and ranges from 32Kč for an espresso<br />

to 84Kc for the large white chocolate mocha. The sandwiches,<br />

panini and cakes are tasty and reasonably priced, and there’s<br />

a 120Kč breakfast offer. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Also at E-4,<br />

Praha 1, Na příkopě 3, Palác Flóra & I-4, pasáž Rokoko, Praha<br />

1, Václavské nám., tel. 224 2 4 70 61. PAGS<br />

Cukrkávalimonáda B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 7, tel.<br />

(+420) 257 53 06 28. A small café which adopts an evening<br />

menu at 18:00 and produces delicious meals such as chicken<br />

breast with prosciutto and mozzarella on balsamic vinegar<br />

and fresh baby spinach to go with some superb (but spendy)<br />

new world wines. Daytime offerings are just as tasty from<br />

the breakfast menu to pancakes, sandwiches and homemade<br />

pasta. As relaxed as the beautifully tranquil square<br />

it is located on. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

(80 - 350Kč). PG<br />

Ebel E-3, Praha 1, Týn 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420)<br />

224 89 57 88, www.ebelcoffee.cz. Some of the best coffee<br />

in town, sandwiches and salads, plus excellent smoothies<br />

and cheesecake to die for. Wooden warmth inside beckons<br />

you in the winter months, and in the evenings you’ll be serenaded<br />

by some good jazz from Ungelt in the basement.<br />

Beware of wandering stag parties from Legends across<br />

the square. Check out their shop almost next door. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 160Kč). Also at D-2, Karprová 11, open<br />

08:00 - 19:00; D-3, Řetězová 9, open 08:00 - 20:00. TAB<br />

Espressamente Illy I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Prague<br />

Marriott Hotel), MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 222<br />

881 258, www.marriottprague.com. Open for breakfast or<br />

lunch; the new Espressamente Illy promises authentic Italian<br />

Espresso and cappuccino. Located in the Prague Marriott<br />

Hotel, it has a street entrance on V Celnici. Offering 20 kinds<br />

of Illy coffee for your morning meetings, plus pastries and light<br />

snacks; it’s a quiet place in a busy neighbourhood.<br />

Face Cafe F-2, Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Republiky.<br />

The place to show your face. Quite an upscale café for a mall, but<br />

with a coffee, wine and cocktail list as long as theirs, it’s a worthwhile<br />

trip. They’ve taken the theme seriously; the menu is framed and<br />

the walls are covered with head shots. Sit inside along the window<br />

and stare at the faces shopping below. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.<br />

Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />

(+420) 224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. The<br />

Globe provides a sophisticated atmosphere to meet other<br />

enlightened souls. Darker walls indicate an edgier characterisation<br />

to this bastion of expat life which had become a<br />

tad stuffy in its middle age. The good food, books (new and<br />

second-hand) and internet café remain but now we also have<br />

Gambrinus on tap as well as live music and events spicing<br />

things up. QOpen 9:30 - 01:00. (40 - 120Kč). AUE<br />

Grand Café Orient F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19,<br />

MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 22 42 40, www.<br />

grandcafeorient.cz. The first floor of the Cubist House of<br />

the Black Madonna is home to a truly unique Cubist-style<br />

café that was reconstructed from photographs to match<br />

the one that was here from 1911 until the 1920s. Even cafécapital<br />

Vienna doesn’t have one of these. The simple menu<br />

lists pancakes, sandwiches and some good coffee. Try to get<br />

a seat on the balcony overlooking Celetná street. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AP<br />

NEW<br />

Hunger Wall Café Lounge B-4, Praha 5, Plaská 615/8,<br />

MAnděl, tel. 257 40 40 20, cafe@hungerwall.eu, www.<br />

cafe-lounge.eu. This new café in Malá Strana is the height of<br />

sophistication. Whether you are stopping by for an afternoon coffee<br />

or evening glass of wine, you will enjoy elegant surroundings and<br />

tasty treats. The cafe’s terrace shares a boundary with the historic<br />

Hunger Wall, so in the summer stop by for a private moment.<br />

Kafíčko C-2, Praha 1, Míšeňská 10, MMalostranská,<br />

tel. (+420) 724 15 17 95. A haven for the healthy, Kafíčko<br />

serves fabulous coffee and teas in a quiet smoke-free coffeehouse<br />

just off mainstream tourism madness. Rest your<br />

soul for a bit while you browse a newspaper, or try one of the<br />

home-made cakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. G<br />

Karlín London J-3, Praha 8, Sokolovská 32, MFlorenc.<br />

This café serves up excellent cakes, pancakes and ice cream<br />

with cheblíčký being the only savoury offerings. The oddity here<br />

is the London murals, the faux double-decker bus, plus Winston<br />

Churchill and the Queen watching you sip your coffee, while the<br />

bathroom entrance is through the red phone box. Q (40 - 150Kč).<br />

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com<br />

Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl,<br />

www.kava-coffee.cz. The future of the café for Prague<br />

with internet in the back (free 15 minutes with purchase),<br />

Wi-Fi all over and superlative staff. Czech or English,<br />

it matters not for these always happy-to-serve girls.<br />

Smoothies and café frappés along with cheap Czech Mex<br />

standards make up the menu after the more usual cakes<br />

and bagels. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní<br />

31. (40 - 250Kč). W<br />

Kavárna Obecní Dům Náměstí Republiky 5, MNáměstí<br />

Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 00 27 63, kavarna.od@<br />

vysehrad2000.cz, www.vysehrad2000.cz. Come for the<br />

atmosphere as well as the treats. This Art Nouveau café on<br />

the ground floor of Obecní Dům is one of the most elegant<br />

in town. You’ll be treated to nice service amidst beautiful<br />

surroundings, and we dare you to turn your head when they<br />

start wheeling the cake cart around. A breakfast menu, plus<br />

sandwiches and salads make this a good break point no<br />

matter what time of day. QOpen 7:30 - 23:00. 90-470Kč.<br />

JAEB<br />

Lemon Café Praha 6, Šlikova 27, tel. (+420) 233<br />

35 06 54, www.lemoncafe.cz. Up a steep slope from<br />

the tram line is the light, airy and green Lemon Café with<br />

fresh bread, delicate salads, sweet and savoury crepes,<br />

and divine cakes. The casual bar area up front leads along<br />

a corridor lined with tables to a rear room with large red<br />

sofas, an atrium and dining tables. Magazines in English<br />

and Czech, including the New Yorker entice but the cuisine<br />

is the real draw, especially the homemade cakes. Tram<br />

15, 22, 25 to Marjánka. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 -<br />

24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 250Kč).<br />

PTAKW<br />

Maluj Creative Café Praha 3, Korunní 105, MJiřího z<br />

Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 774 62 58 51, www.studio-maluj.<br />

cz. Do it yourself chic at this new café that serves up unglazed<br />

pottery (plates, bowls, ashtrays, objects) in addition to the<br />

usual café food and beverage items. Roll up your sleeves and<br />

get creative with their paints, then they’ll glaze your work of art<br />

for you to take home. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. P<br />

Ouky Douky Praha 7, Janovského 14, MVltavská, tel.<br />

(+420) 266 71 15 31, www.oukydouky.cz. Holesovice’s<br />

happiest corner is somewhat like an expat hangout minus<br />

the expats – it’s up to you to decide if that’s a good or bad<br />

thing. The cosy bar sells good coffee and simple meals, sells<br />

books (mostly Czech), has internet at 90Kč/hr and occasionally<br />

throws a party. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />

Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymská 12, tel.<br />

(+420) 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of<br />

handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry and<br />

prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess and<br />

backgammon, Bernard beer, some funky original art and<br />

mosaics, plus coffee, tea and cakes. Tram N°4, 22 or 23 to<br />

the Krymská stop. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Also at C-2, U<br />

lužického semináře 10. E<br />

Slavia C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 1, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />

(+420) 224 21 84 93. Slavia is a throwback to days gone<br />

by with a beautiful art deco interior and photos of celebrity<br />

patrons. Its location can’t be beaten, with large windows<br />

open to Národní Divadlo and the Vltava. Service is fine, but<br />

you can sit here for quite a while without purchasing much<br />

from the very well-priced menu. Good coffee, tasty meals,<br />

snacks and pastries are all available. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />

(45 - 320Kč). PAU<br />

prague.inyourpocket.com<br />

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Starbucks Praha 1, Malostranské nám. 28, MMalostranské.<br />

Perhaps the last place on the planet without one,<br />

Prague is now the happy home to a Starbucks. Wipe the tear<br />

from your eye and order your grande skinny latte, no whip.<br />

Smack dab in the middle of Malostranské náměstí; impossible<br />

for the masses to miss. The ground floor is spacious, but<br />

there’s more comfy seating downstairs. QOpen 7:00 - 21:00,<br />

Sat, Sun 8:00 - 21:00. 75-195kč.<br />

U Prstenu D-3, Praha 1, Jilská 14, MStaroměstská,<br />

tel. (+420) 776 21 66 80, www.uprstenu.cz. A decidedly<br />

modernist establishment; crackly 1930s jazz crooning and<br />

funky old wooden chairs combine nicely and contrast with the<br />

post-modernity of the gallerie itself next door. This café is<br />

empty of both pretension and people - very pleasant indeed.<br />

QOpen 10:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (50 - 210Kč).<br />

U Zavěšenýho kafe Praha 1, Úvoz 6, MMalostranská,<br />

tel. (+420) 605 29 45 95. The name refers to a time when<br />

richer clients paid for two coffees, leaving one for the next<br />

impoverished artist to arrive. Sit and relax, buy a hanging<br />

coffee if you’re feeling philanthropic, otherwise while away the<br />

time in a space that exists outside the tourist zone around it.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. BK<br />

Yessi Café I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky,<br />

tel. (+420) 222 21 25 85, www.yessicafe.cz. From the<br />

makers of Pravda, Hot and Bellevue comes a casual café<br />

for the masses. Purple and green dominate the upholstered<br />

sofas and stools. Smoothies and juices are sadly pre-made,<br />

sandwiches too for the lunch rush but you can also build<br />

your own. Italian water ups the price, but the veggie and<br />

hummos sandwich (99Kč) is superb. Alcohol and Illy coffee<br />

also served. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 9:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />

10:00 - 18:00. PBS<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

39

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