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Low tide.
first paddle from the mouth of the Kugajuk River that flows into the
bay. Water, ice and sky came together for our short but magical paddle.
Every day after that we were able to venture further out in the
bay by kayak or boat.
When tour day arrived, though, it was wind, not ice that kept us
off the water. Michael and Thomas Kayaitok, a second guide (whose
name actually means ‘no kayak’), took our group on an overland
tour. Ancient fishing weirs, still used today, and a nearby Cold War
era relic DEW-line station provided a day’s distraction from wind
and waves.
We were able to get on the water the next day, and spent the
following three days and nights exploring the south basin of St.
Peter Bay, formed by a 10 mile ring of islands protecting Kugaaruk’s
inner waters. We were able to see first hand much of the abundant
wildlife of the area, including caribou and seal. Bowhead whales
were spotted by area residents at the time, but eluded our watch
despite hours of gazing across the bay’s horizon. But nearly a dozen
land-locked char from a small unnamed lake at the south end of
the bay were caught and turned into chowder one evening.
On this occasion, we didn’t see polar bears, which populate the
northern end of Pelly Bay along the ice, where seals are abundant,
nor did we see the threatened barren ground grizzly, sighted by
hunters along the west coast of the bay. And narwhal populate the
waters later in the summer season. However, ancient kayak stands
and tent rings were a source of wonder to us all. And Michael and
Thomas proved to be invaluable, serving us pans full of bannock,
showing off traditional string games, as well as regaling us all with
tales of life in the Arctic.
We finished the tour with a day-long paddle around the outside
of the islands. As we paddled north, broad incoming swells from
Pelly Bay lifted us from the west and Kugaaruk’s granite landscape
stared down from the east. We stopped beside a waterfall to brew
a final cup of tea before coasting back into the hamlet’s harbour.
Following the kayak tour, visitors spent another day in Kugaaruk
entertained by a local drum dancer/singer and buying carvings from
local artists. Michael provided a powerboat charter for a day’s sightseeing
along the ice pack at the north end of Pelly Bay.
Victoria had been asked late in her life what she hoped to accomplish
in Kugaaruk. Her reply was simple: “If I could return in a
hundred years and see kayaks on the bay, I’d be happy.”
Kayaks in Kugaaruk were non-existent ten years ago. Now the
local Co-op is using the modern version of this traditional tool to
support the community once more. They own, operate, and guide
sea kayaking tours, showing off their traditions and their land with
all its wildlife and history. The kayak has indeed returned.
Traditional kayaks are being built with the guidance of elders
now, and each summer more locals are able to build and paddle
their own kayaks. Children in the community have had the experience
of paddling rather than just learning of their history at school
from a text book.
In short, the future of kayaking in Kugaaruk is full of opportunity.
Victoria would be proud. ❏
© Text and photos by Phil Hossack.
Ph/Fax: 204-224-4738.
www.pellybay.com.
Pelly Bay
ARCTIC CIRCLE
Canada
USA
Winter Paddling at its Best!
Phone 604-946-5070
info@kaymarantours.com
www.kaymarantours.com
Kaymaran Adventures—Fraser River Eco-Tours, Ladner BC
Tours, Rentals, Mothership, Family Rates
24 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com February/March 2003