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From the Archipelago<br />

Winter Watch<br />

Speeding west through Fife Sound on<br />

steel-gray, calm water, I spotted what<br />

appeared to be a ‘Scotchman’—a brilliant<br />

orange float used as a fender to keep boats<br />

from rubbing themselves raw against docks.<br />

I veered towards this valuable bit of flotsam,<br />

but as I drew closer, it became clear<br />

the smooth pink globe was a pair of lungs!<br />

As the boat pulled abeam I could see intestines,<br />

stomach and the head of something<br />

dangling below.<br />

I kept going, thinking an orca might rise<br />

out of the depths to reclaim this high calorie,<br />

marine mammal snack. Drifting at a<br />

distance, I observed that all was still, so I<br />

scooped the carcass into my boat. There was<br />

just enough of the animal left to see it was<br />

a very large harbour porpoise, cut neatly<br />

in two. Typical of orca kills, the entrails had<br />

not been consumed and the blubber was<br />

stripped clean.<br />

For anyone studying marine mammals,<br />

this find held a wealth of information. The<br />

porpoise had been feeding on herring and<br />

was so old that its teeth were worn almost<br />

to the gum line. I took and packaged samples<br />

for various other researchers and gave<br />

it back to the scavengers in need of this rare,<br />

rich, December meal.<br />

The next day, a pod of transient orcas,<br />

perhaps the owners of the kill, came quietly<br />

through our area. They remained in<br />

stealth mode until they killed a harbour<br />

seal, and then called back and forth as the<br />

mother with youngsters was allowed sole<br />

ALWAYS ASK<br />

Photo: Wild BC spring salmon by Alexandra Morton ©<br />

Wolf mask.<br />

access to the kill. Then they moved gently<br />

east, further into the inlets, to destinations<br />

unknown.<br />

•••<br />

The dolphins have arrived in groups of<br />

hundreds, and this year there are lots of babies.<br />

It took over ten years for the mothers<br />

with young babies to come into the archipelago<br />

and now they are not only here, but<br />

allowing the babies to play with my boat.<br />

The little fellows rocket about with astonishing<br />

speed. Most days are too rough<br />

and stormy for me to join them, but it’s good<br />

to know they can make a living here again<br />

this winter. Their careless, noisy, fun-loving<br />

nature is evident as they race about,<br />

leaping in trios and quintets, but I know<br />

they are always on patrol for the whales<br />

that would eat them. And they are staging<br />

their play directly above the schools of<br />

pollock, herring and other fish species<br />

which sustain them. Their behaviour is not<br />

as random as it appears.<br />

Is it wild or farmed?<br />

Netcage salmon farming pollutes<br />

the environment and threatens<br />

the survival of wild salmon.<br />

Go Wild!<br />

Check out our new DINER’S GUIDE<br />

at www.GeorgiaStrait.org<br />

Georgia Strait Alliance: 250-753-3459<br />

Alexandra Morton<br />

•••<br />

The chum salmon or ‘dog’ salmon, as<br />

they are known by many First Nations,<br />

came home in spectacular abundance this<br />

year. These fish went to sea before the fish<br />

farms’ sea lice outbreak and thus were not<br />

affected, unlike the smaller pink salmon<br />

whose runs collapsed. These fish carried<br />

enough nutrients home to fill the stomachs<br />

of bears and make hibernation possible. Next<br />

year these salmon may not be as fortunate.<br />

•••<br />

The verdict is in—the salmon farms have<br />

been found to be the most likely cause of<br />

the devastating sea lice epidemic which destroyed<br />

98% of the pink salmon runs of the<br />

Broughton Archipelago. The salmon farmers<br />

have opted to take the low road and<br />

disregard the wise recommendation by senior<br />

fisheries scientists to fallow this entire<br />

archipelago.<br />

An extraordinary alliance of commercial<br />

fishers, sport fishers, First Nations communities,<br />

tourism operators, environmentalists,<br />

scientists, lawyers, writers, filmmakers, and<br />

radio talk show hosts are coalescing to prevent<br />

destruction of the pink salmon, which<br />

are a vital life force for our coastal ecosystem.<br />

In an effort to leave no stone unturned,<br />

my good friend Beatrice Smith from the<br />

nearby community of Kwicksutaineuk-Ah-<br />

Kwak-Ah-Mish, is guiding me in planning<br />

a healing ceremony for the last of the young<br />

pink salmon that will embark on their life’s<br />

journey this spring.<br />

“Make sure the fish farmers know they<br />

must come too,” Bea told me, wisely pointing<br />

out that healing needs all sides to come<br />

together.<br />

A timeless meld of love, pain, motherhood<br />

and leadership clads this woman as<br />

perfectly as the bark envelopes the cedar<br />

tree. She is solid ground for her community,<br />

which is trying to re-grow roots in a<br />

time of shifting quicksands.<br />

I will do what Bea tells me. Her wisdom<br />

is plain as the snow-frosted mountains which<br />

embrace these inlets. Her power is as pure<br />

as the glacier melt water. Everything must<br />

be done to allow life on this earth to continue<br />

in the face of near demonic greed. ❏<br />

© Text and photo by<br />

Alexandra Morton (R.P.Bio).<br />

She is a marine mammal<br />

scientist and author in<br />

British Columbia’s<br />

Broughton Archipelago.<br />

Visit her website at<br />

www.raincoastresearch.org.<br />

40 www.<strong>WaveLength</strong><strong>Magazine</strong>.com February/March 2003

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