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Tricked out kayaks Hitting the water - Wavelength Paddling Magazine

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Solomon Islands<br />

way <strong>the</strong> chief would have dug into his<br />

clam stash to save a white man; ra<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

he would’ve been carving into him with<br />

a large knife. Oddly enough, some of <strong>the</strong><br />

missionaries actually wanted to end up as<br />

main courses, believing <strong>the</strong>y would die as<br />

martyrs and thus gain a quicker passage to<br />

heaven.<br />

If <strong>the</strong> missionaries had looked at<br />

Marovo Lagoon, <strong>the</strong>y might have realized<br />

heaven was already in sight. Its crystalline<br />

<strong>water</strong>s teem with sharks, manta rays and<br />

fluorescent fish. Rainbow-colored reefs<br />

form e<strong>the</strong>real under<strong>water</strong> worlds, while<br />

secluded white beaches make what’s above<br />

<strong>the</strong> surface just as magical. The main mode<br />

of transport here is kayak or canoe. And<br />

for most of my seven-day sojourn with<br />

Raba, I traveled by kayak to explore <strong>the</strong><br />

mysterious back<strong>water</strong>s of paradise, and to<br />

uncover <strong>the</strong> area’s grisly headhunting past.<br />

MY JOURNEY began from an<br />

island shaped like a hammerhead<br />

shark arching its back. Uepi Island is a hub<br />

for adventure seekers and <strong>the</strong> best place<br />

in Marovo from which to embark on a<br />

guided kayaking expedition. And paddling<br />

is <strong>the</strong> best way to explore this vast aquatic<br />

playground.<br />

It’s not long before Raba has forged<br />

ahead. We’ve been dropped off in <strong>the</strong><br />

Mbili Passage, a forty-five minute boat ride<br />

from Uepi. Once <strong>the</strong> passage ends, we’re<br />

u<br />

Top: a traditional welcome to <strong>the</strong> Solomon<br />

Islands. Above: paddling in <strong>the</strong> mangroves of<br />

Bapita Passage. Background: taking a break.<br />

WINTER 2010 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE 15

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