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NAPA VALLEY | WINE COUNTRY THIS WEEKTasting Room of the Week:FREEMARK ABBEYby Richard Paul HinkleEarlier this year, Freemark Abbey openedits newly remodeled tasting room. As always,the emphasis is on a most comfortable experience.“We want people to feel almost as ifthey are entering our ‘home,’” says winemasterTed Edwards, who has long felt athome at Freemark, crafting memorable winesthat bespeak his experience and his sensibilities.“The new tasting room has a Vinotheque[climate-controlled] storage system thatshowcases our Cabernets dating back to1973,” says Edwards, “and there’s a fireplace,a twenty-five foot long tasting bar, and a moreprivate Estate Room that can accommodate adozen tasters for special tastings.”Edwards has always struck me as a fellowwho understands essences. “A winemaker is alittle like a chef,” he says. “Just as a chefwould grow his own herb and vegetablegarden, it is ideal for a winemaker to activelyparticipate in the vineyard, see the grapesgrowing through harvest, and bring thisabundantly juicy produce to the winery – our36kitchen – to make a full-bodied wine withlayers of flavor.” Just taste his latest releases.Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Napa Valley($24): Bright, enchanting grapefruit andlemon fruit that begs the lemon chicken orthe slathered-in-butter filet of sole. Bring ’emon.Viognier 2007 Napa Valley, Rutherford($27): Sweet celery and an orchid-like floralnote make for an intriguing combination.Would do nicely with a lamb stew. Seriously.Petite Sirah 2004 Napa Valley, Rutherford,Estate Bottled ($30): Near opaque incolor, full plum and blackberry fruit, withtangy black walnut essence in the finish.Cheddar cheese.Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Napa Valley“Bootleg” ($45): Cassis and cigar boxaromatics, with solid blackberry and plumfruit and eucalyptus spiciness. Salisburysteak.Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa Valley($35): Rich and round, with black cherry,plum berry and blackberry fruit that meshesnicely. Edwards (and assistant Brian Kosi)draw on the best of the estate vineyards forthis wine (Bosché, Sycamore, Wood andVeeder).Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Napa Valley,Sycamore ($55): This has, since its inceptionin 1984, been one of my favorite Cabernetsfrom the Rutherford Bench, with its typicalblackberry and violet fruit, and hints of raspberryand chocolate. With all that substance,the wine remains subtle, silky and broodingin structure.“Josephine” 2005 Napa Valley ($80): Anew wine, this is Freemark’s entry into themeritage category. A blend of CabernetsSauvignon and Franc, Merlot and Malbec,this is a stylish, smooth amalgam of blackberry,raspberry and dark chocolate. Bring onthe prime rib!Freemark Abbey is on Highway 29 at LodiLane, St. Helena CA 94574. Open daily from10 a.m. to 5 p.m., they can be reached at 1-800-963-9698 or www.freemarkabbey.comfor further information.[Hinkle is the author of nine wine books. Hislatest, Clos Pegase: The Architecture of Wine, isdue out any minute now. See his work at Richard-PaulHinkle.com.]