Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture Research Update - P&G Beauty ...

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TOPICAL ANTI-AGING COMPOUNDS Ingredient/Compound Mechanism of Action Ascorbic Acid — a potent organic acid with antioxidant properties, commonly known as vitamin C. Forms of this vitamin include ascorbic acid, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl glucoside. CoQ10 — a naturally occurring compound found in every cell in the body that acts as an antioxidant. Also known as ubiquinone. N-acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) — a simple amino sugar and nutrient that plays a role in forming and maintaining the body’s tissues. Niacinamide — a water soluble B3 vitamin found naturally in the body. Forms of vitamin B3 that are typically used in skin care products include niacinamide (also called “nicotinamide”), nicotinic acid and nicotinate esters. Panthenol — present in all living cells and a major component of co-enzyme A, which serves a critical role in cellular metabolism. Peptides — natural or synthetic compounds containing two or more linked amino acids. Peptides that are of particular interest to the cosmetic industry include palmitoyl-lysine-threoninethreonine-lysine-serine (pal-KTTKS; Matrixyl ® ) and palmitoyl-lysine threonine (pal-KT). Retinoids — derivatives of vitamin A. Retinoic acid is the functional form of vitamin A in skin and is considered to be the gold-standard Rx anti-aging treatment. Other forms of vitamin A used cosmetically include retinol, retinyl-propionate and retinaldehyde. Salicylic Acid — derivative of beta-hydroxy acid. Other forms of hydroxy acids used cosmetically include glycolic, malic, tartaric, lactic and critic acids; and polyhydroxy acids such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. Other Antioxidants — include alphalipoic acid, tocopherol and lutein and are employed in the cosmetic arena. Tocopherol is an isomer of vitamin E. Sunscreens — Include avobenzone, octocrylene, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. 10 Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture: Research Update Based on in vitro experiments, vitamin C has been shown to promote collagen synthesis. Cosmetic studies demonstrate several skin anti-aging effects from the use of topical vitamin C. 3% ascorbic acid has been shown to reduce oxidative damage by neutralizing free radicals as well as to reduce facial wrinkles. 5–17% ascorbic acid minimizes facial photoaging, improves skin texture and increases skin elastin. Neutralizes harmful free radicals and protects skin from damaging effects. Higher levels of CoQ10 result in increased production of collagen and elastin. Penetrates epidermal layers to reduce level of oxidation and diminish depth of fi ne lines/wrinkles. Experiments treating cells in culture with N-acetyl-glucosamine have demonstrated signifi cant increases in both hyaluronic acid and collagen. In human clinical testing, topically applied NAG improves skin moisturization as well as the appearance of fi ne lines/wrinkles. In vitro experiments establish that niacinamide increases collagen production, decreases sebum production and increases barrier-containing lipids and proteins. Clinical studies have demonstrated a range of benefi ts including a reduction in the appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles, minimized skin pore size and decreased appearance of hyper-pigmented spots, blotchiness and skin sallowness. In vitro studies of cells treated with panthenol demonstrate increased synthesis of stratum corneum lipids. Topically-applied panthenol in human clinical testing has shown increased hydration of the stratum corneum and improved roughness and elasticity of skin. In vitro studies prove that synthetic pal-KTTKS stimulates collagen production and reduces excess dermal GAGs. In addition, in vitro pal-KT enhances the reduction of collagen alone and synergistically with pal-KTTKS. Clinical studies show topical pal- KTTKS and pal-KT products improve the appearance of wrinkles and texture. In vitro studies demonstrate retinoid-induced changes in the expression of genes relevant to dermal matrix production, epidermal differentiation and melanin production. Specifi cally, retinoids stimulate the production of collagen and decrease the production of dermal GAGs. Retinoids have also been shown to increase the production of epidermal hyaluronic acid. Clinical studies demonstrate that topical doses of retinoids less than 1% are signifi cantly effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, roughness and the appearance of facial fi ne lines/wrinkles. Salicylic Acid proves to exfoliate the stratum corneum resulting in improved skin texture and color appearance. Clinical studies of topical salicylic acid have demonstrated improvements in the appearance of wrinkling, roughness and discoloration. In in vitro experiments, antioxidants neutralize free radicals, protect skin cells from oxidation and thwart other antioxidants from oxidizing. In particular, tocopherol has the potential to improve skin problems caused by UV exposure such as sunburn, skin photoaging and hyperpigmentation. Used topically, these antioxidants have been shown to diminish the appearance of aging. Chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation while physical sunscreens block UV rays. A physical or “broad spectrum” sunscreen is an effi cient tool to protect against both UVA and UVB rays, which contribute to wrinkles, freckles and age spots. Prevents Repairs Prevents & Repairs
What Works In recent years, science has uncovered a great deal about how to prevent extrinsic skin aging as well as the anti-aging benefi ts of retinoids, niacinamide and peptides. Prevention of Extrinsic Skin Aging Everyone has heard the old adage that an ounce of prevention equals a pound of cure, but in the arena of skin science, it is only recently that we’ve gained a clearer understanding of what should be prevented and how. Th anks to research advancements, we now know both the consequences of extrinsic factors and what can be done to avoid, or at least limit, their deleterious eff ects. In the area of UV protection, increased understanding of the role of UVA rays in both cancer and skin aging has led to stronger emphasis on “broad spectrum” coverage that protects against UVA and UVB rays, as well as the introduction of improved UVA fi lters. Th is progress is continuing to be built upon through enhanced technologies that deliver the protection consumers need along with the product aesthetics we know improve sunscreen compliance. 33 Progress has also been made in better understanding the role of antioxidants in inhibiting reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation and thereby interrupting free radical chain propa- gation, a major pathway for UV- and other environmentally-induced skin damage. In a recent study, P&G Beauty researchers 34 used fl uorescence microscopy to visualize and quantify the protective eff ect of topically-applied antioxidants for inhibiting ROS formation across several sources of oxidative stressors, including UV light, automotive emissions and ozone. Th e effi cacy of sunscreen alone and in combination with antioxidants was also evaluated. Key fi ndings include: • Topically applied antioxidant formulations were eff ective at signifi cantly inhibiting free radical formation, with reductions of 19–88% versus antioxidant-free vehicle controls observed against three oxidative stressors. • An antioxidant/SPF 15 formulation gave signifi cantly reduced ROS (91% reduction) versus either antioxidant-only (88% reduction) or SPF-only (61% reduction) controls (p
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