Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture Research Update - P&G Beauty ...

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Targeting the Problem Where It Occurs Experts agree that wrinkles usually begin as fi ne lines. Generally, these lines are found in the areas used most frequently in facial expressions and those highly exposed to UV rays. As a result, wrinkles are commonly found in the areas pictured below. Additionally, inconsistent skin texture can be found on many areas of the face, most noticeably on the nose and cheek area (“bumpy” texture, enlarged pores) and the area between the eye and the ear. Other texture problems that can be found across the entire face are rough or fl aky texture and scarring or pitting from acne. Forehead Crows feet Enlarged pores Upper & lower lip Chin/underside of chin 4 Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture: Research Update Intrinsic & Extrinsic Factors Associated with Skin Aging A large body of research has helped to delineate intrinsic and extrinsic factors at work in aging skin. Th e process of intrinsic skin aging follows a similar trajectory as that of most internal organs, with factors including inevitable changes in hormone levels, particularly estrogen, as well as declines in metabolic activity and cell regeneration. 2 Extrinsic skin aging is caused primarily by UV exposure; 3 however, exposure to environmental pollution and smoking are also signifi cant factors. Yet, while science has, for research purposes, categorized age-inducing factors as either intrinsic or extrinsic, increasing evidence demonstrates their interdependencies; specifi cally, we are Bumpy texture Laughter lines Corners of mouth In addition to the problem areas shown above, rough or fl aky texture can appear anywhere on the face. Skin Facts • Up to approximately mid-30s, the skin epidermis renews itself every 4-6 weeks. As the body ages, the renewal time slows to about 6-8 weeks. • The skin of an average woman weighs about 3 kg, and that of an average man approximately 5 kg. • The thickness of the skin varies, depending on its site on the body. It is thinnest on the eyelids and thickest on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. learning more about the ways extrinsic factors accelerate intrinsic aging. One example of the complex interplay of factors involves free radicals, which are both generated internally through normal metabolic processes and produced as a consequence of external factors, including UV exposure. As a result of the age-associated decline in protective internal antioxidant mechanisms, free radicals accumulate in the body and alter both the proteins and the DNA in the skin. In fact, according to a recent study published in Nature, 4 the buildup of damaged DNA drives the aging process. In addition, ongoing accumulation of internally-generated free radicals combined with those generated from UV and other
external assaults (surfactants, allergens, and other irritants) can promote a chronic infl ammatory state. Th is chronic infl ammatory state compromises skin health and accelerates the aging process; for example, proteolytic enzymes are produced, resulting in collagen degradation. 5 Other changes resulting from the complex interplay between intrinsic and extrinsic factors that impact the appearance of fi ne lines, wrinkles and texture include the following: • Th ickness of the epidermis, cellular turnover rate of both the epider mis and the stratum corneum declines and epidermal diff erentiation is 6, 7 altered. • Dermis becomes thinner as major structural molecules including collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans decrease in amount. 8, 9, 10 Metalloproteinase activity also decreases in photodamaged skin and the structure of these molecules becomes disorganized and cross- 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 linked. • Convolution of dermal-epidermal junction (Rete ridges) fl attens with age, resulting in a loss of mechanical strength. 16 Th is also leads to decreased microcirculation to the upper dermis and, thus, decreased nourishment to the epidermis. • Age-related changes in inter- and intra-cellular signaling lead to 17, 18 decreases in collagen synthesis. • Changes in hyaluronic acid content within the skin varies with age. Hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturizer within the skin binding up to 1000 times its weight in water. Age-related declines result in compromised moisturization 19, 20 and fi rmness. • Decrease in intracellular energy sources including ATP and NADH lead to an inability of skin cells to sustain youthful skin biochemistry, thereby reducing the skin’s ability to maintain and restore youthful skin structure. 21 Th ese changes work together to compromise skin’s elasticity, fi rmness and structure, which contributes to areas of collapse and irregularity and ultimately manifests as fi ne lines, wrinkles and texture problems. As P&G Beauty scientists continue to study how these processes contribute to fi ne lines, wrinkles and texture changes, they’re also seeking to better understand what processes impact other consumer-relevant signs of aging, including skin tone, surface dullness, pore size, blotchiness, age spots and dryness. Th e intention of this ongoing research is to develop antiaging products that can comprehensively approach the many factors that lead to the appearance of aging skin. Innovations in Technology & Clinical Testing With our advancing understanding of the biology of fi ne lines and wrinkles comes the application of more sophisticated technologies and more rigorous research methods to measure the eff ects of topical treatments. Gone are the days of trial and error, when the effi cacy of topical interventions was determined by treating symptoms without a clear sense of the underlying biological mechanisms. Now, researchers are utilizing a host of complex sciences and technologies to understand these Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture: Research Update 5
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