Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture Research Update - P&G Beauty ...

study compared the sun-exposed skin
of the forearm and the sun-unexposed
skin of the buttocks in both
young and older clinical test subjects.
Gene chip technology allowed the
researchers to identify exact processes
and metabolic pathways that were
diff erent in young versus old skin.
Additionally, it allowed scientists to
identify pathways that were active in
young skin but were inactive in old
skin as well as pathways that were
overly active in the older skin, such
as infl ammation.
Genes observed in the older clinical
test subjects shared consistent
themes, including:
• Immune and infl ammatory re -
sponse genes were up-regulated
• Extra-cellular matrix genes were
up-regulated, though photoaging
was more commonly associated
with collagen gene changes and
Summary
Wrinkles, fi ne lines and uneven skin texture are
persistent and universal concerns of aging patients, particularly
women. But new innovations in topical treatments
are allowing these concerns to be addressed both
through preventative care, specifi cally the inclusion of
ingredients that protect against UV-related damage,
and restorative skin creams that deliver anti-aging
benefi ts. Ingredients that have been shown to unequivocally
deliver wrinkle, fi ne line and texture benefi ts
include niacinamide, peptides, retinyl propionate and
N-acetyl glucosamine.
chronological skin aging with keratin
gene changes
• Protease/peptidase activity was upregulated
• Oxidoreductase activity and epidermal
development process genes
were down-regulated
Th e overarching theme, of course, is
that an infl ammatory response was
observed in older and photodamaged
skin. By understanding how
specifi c genes are modulated by the
aging process, scientists now have the
means to tailor treatments to shut
down those processes which age the
skin considerably.
Th is study is just the beginning of
the potential that is possible through
gene chip technology. Th rough an
analysis of these pathways at the gene
expression level, these researchers
are making discoveries that will ultimately
lead to advances in cosmetic
options for consumers. Spurred
by the promising fi ndings to date,
P&G Beauty scientists are continuing
to explore this new frontier across
multiple research end points. For
the growing ranks of patients who
seek non-invasive solutions to common
dermatological problems, gene
chip technology provides an understanding
of skin aging never before
possible, and, in doing so, off ers
extraordinary potential for improving
topical anti-aging treatments.
This fi gure is illustrative of the combined effects
of aging and photodamage at the gene expression
level. The blue color indicates genes that
are down-regulated; red, up-regulated; and white
indicates no change. It is clear that there are large
clusters of genes that are differentially regulated
in young versus older photodamaged skin.
Th rough refi ned applications of complex sciences and
advanced technologies, P&G Beauty researchers are
gaining a more complete picture of the underlying biological
processes at work in aging skin. Th is methodological
process has led to the ability to identify gene
targets and tailor topical interventions accordingly. One
dominant theme that has emerged is the age-related
process of infl ammation, and thought leaders predict
future anti-aging research and treatments will further
expand upon and apply this body of knowledge.
Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Texture: Research Update 17