Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture Research Update - P&G Beauty ...

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Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture Infl uence Self-Perception Th roughout the evolution of skin care, fi ne lines, wrinkles and texture have been persistent concerns for aging women. Research reveals that this concern is legitimate and related to self-image and age-related discrimination. Poor self-image is associated with chronic illness and fewer preventive health behaviors, such as exercise, 1 and aged skin, particularly in women, has also been linked to job discrimination. 1 Such far-reaching psycho-social implications help explain the ongoing quest to develop better treatments to conceal and delay the signs of aging. As this quest has progressed, skin care formulators have sought to use the best science available to address fi ne lines, wrinkles and texture problems. As illustrated in the timeline below, a snapshot of trends over past decades Decades of Skin Care 1960s Moisturization is key to wrinkle reduction (e.g., propylene glycol, lactate) 2 Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture: Research Update 1970s Super-moisturization ingredients debut (e.g., glycerol, petrolatum) demonstrates that the approaches to addressing the problem have evolved in step with technological advances and a wider availability of ingredients. In tandem with the increased availability of specialty creams and lotions, consumers have become more aware of and concerned with the multitude of factors relating to aging skin. Researchers have found there are seven key signs of aging that concern women and these concerns are consistently identifi ed, regardless of their diverse lifestyles and ethnicities. P&G Beauty conducted surveys with over 6,000 women across three continents and found the following concerns to be consistently identifi ed: • Fine lines and wrinkles • Skin texture • Skin tone • Skin surface dullness • Visible pores • Blotchiness and age spots • Dryness 1980s Exfoliation is the rage (e.g., hydroxy acids) While this longer list of concerns suggests that women are increasingly taking a more holistic view of the signs of skin’s aging, fi ne lines and wrinkles continue to be a prime concern for women. As one of the fi rst visible manifestations of aging in a world that values youthful appearances, there are no indications that the focus on fi ne lines and wrinkles will wane. But how much do wrinkles and fi ne lines contribute to selfperceptions compared to these other age-related factors? To better understand the relative contribution of fi ne lines and wrinkles versus skin color unevenness on selfperceptions, P&G Beauty researchers conducted a study to isolate the role that fi ne lines and wrinkles play. In the study, researchers took digital facial images of subjects 40 years or older using a custom high-resolution digital imaging system. Th ese images were then subjected to the digital removal of fi ne lines, wrinkles and color unevenness. Finally, groups of 1990s Age-defying ingredients make news (e.g., retinoids) 2000s An ever-expanding range of specialty ingredients leads to better products, but also consumer confusion (e.g., niacinamide, peptides)
panelists were asked to identify the age of the images they were shown. Preliminary fi ndings reveal that fi ne lines and wrinkles are the primary factors impacting perceptions of female facial age. Th ese early fi ndings underscore the need for further research to elucidate the connection between skin aging and perceptions, and reinforce eff orts to discover better and more accessible anti-aging solutions. Biology of Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture In looking at the biological mechanisms which lead to fi ne lines, wrinkles and changing texture, it is important to start with clear working defi nitions of these phenomena. Th is is especially important because they often overlap, the progression from one to the other is subtle and the measurements used to evaluate them vary across the fi eld of dermatology. Adding to this complexity, one must take into account that these phenomena are driven by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors and that these factors are highly interrelated. As science unravels each nuance of these processes, better strategies for addressing the undesirable eff ects of skin aging are emerging, and P&G Beauty sci- entists and their collaborators are constantly seeking new insights that will ultimately lead to improved antiaging treatments. Defi ning the Problem Across dermatological literature, there are various synonyms and characteristics used to describe fi ne lines, wrinkles and inconsistent texture, and consequently, defi nitions have been somewhat broad and expansive. In their work, P&G Beauty researchers utilize the criteria below to defi ne fi ne lines, wrinkles and inconsistent texture: Surface Wrinkles/Fine Lines • Crevices in the surface of the skin that only delve into the epidermal layer • Less than 0.1mm in depth Wrinkle Fold Line • May either disappear upon relaxation or be barely discernible • Th ought to be reducible/eliminated without the use of invasive procedures Deep Wrinkles/Folds • Crevices in the skin surface that delve into the dermal layer (deep wrinkles) and even into the subcutaneous layer (folds) • Greater than 0.1mm in depth, up to 0.4mm in depth • Remain well-defi ned and evident upon the relaxation of the muscles and the skin Inconsistent Texture • Enlarged pore size • “Bumpy” texture • Rough or fl aky texture Epidermis Dermis Subcutis Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture: Research Update 3
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Page 21 and 22: eferences 21. Bissett DL, Oblong JE
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