Dapper Tom Instruction Book

STAGE B: COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES1. Installing the Keel & StemLike the bulwarks, the model keel is modifiedfrom the real boat as can be seen on theplans. The model keel is 1/16" deep x 3/32"wide basswood. Fit it from Station 10 forwardup to the heavier pipe stem piecewhich starts just below the waterline. For thecurved portion of the keel, steam bend thestrip or cut it out of a wider sheet of 3/32"thick wood.On the real boat the heavy stem is a roundpipe. It is actually fitted over the keel barwhich goes up to the deck. If you have notdone so yet, cut or sand in the notch for thestem, 1/32" deep. For the heavy stem, addeither a 1/8" diameter dowel. Or a 1/8"square basswood strip. For the square, sandthe forward side round and sand the backedges down to the hull. Use wood filler asnecessary to smooth out the joint betweenthe stem and hull (Figure B-1).2. Installing the Sternpost, PropShaft Tube Fairing, & PropellerThe sternpost is a 3/32" thick laser-cut woodpart. This is actually part of large forging atthe stern of the real boat that includes thestern tube. Glue this part to the hull. If it isnot the same width as the hull you havecarved from Stage A, sand the hull flush withthe laser-cut part, or if necessary add woodfiller on the hull so the two will fair. Next,add the shaft tube fairings on both sides. Cutthese from basswood. Shape the inboardsides to the hull shape. The outer facesshould be parallel to the hull’s centerline. Onthe real boat this is just a hump in the hullplating that covers the stern tube whichwould protrude thru the hull if not covered.Install the propeller. The prop has a shaftpiece that should fit in the slot in the lasercutsternpost . You may need to shorten theshaft on the prop, or drill a hole at the slotdeeper into the hull (Figure B-2).3. Installing the Rudder Skeg& RudderAs noted in Paragraph 1 above, the keel wasinstalled forward of station 10. Aft of Station10 you will add the 3/32" thick laser-cut ruddersupport skeg which extends beyond thehull. If you have not yet carved the notch forthe skeg, do so now. The bottom of the skegshould be in line with the bottom of the keel.Drill a hole in the hull for the upper end ofthe rudder stock. At the end of the laser-cutskeg (part 1), add the laser-cut block (part 2)which has a hole for the lower end of therudder stock. Round the outer edges of theskeg per the plan.The rudder is a Britannia casting with thestock already molded in. Fit the upper endin the hole in the hull, then in the skeg, andfinally glue the skeg to the hull. You willFIG. B-1 KEEL & STEMNOTCHFOR STEMFIG. B-2 STERNPOST, FAIRING& PROPLASER-CUTPARTPROP CASTINGFIG. B-4 BULWARK DETAILSCHOCK CASTING3/32" x 1/6" KEELBACK TO STA. 106SHAPETO HULLFAIRINGKEELNOTCH FOR SKEGHAWSE PIPELIP CASTINGTYPICALBRACKETUSING1/8" SQUAREROUND EDGESCUT & ADDWOOD FILLERFOR CURVEDBOTTOM ENDFIG. B-3 RUDDER SKEG& RUDDERRUDDER CASTING,CUT-OFF SHAFTTO FIT HOLELASER-CUTSKEGPART 2ROUNDEDGEQUARTER BITTCASTINGTYPICALSTIFFENERADD WOOD FILLERUSING DOWELCAP RAILLASER-CUTSKEGPART 1