<strong>Quarry</strong> <strong>Climbs</strong>: Long Side15612412357 8 9 10 1113 1416
Sneakeasy – Fuck-Knuckle 111 Sneakeasy 23 3A popular route and one of the few at the<strong>Quarry</strong> that can pass for a sport climb.Start up the wall and move right to a smallledge, then move back left and continue upthe face. Bryce Martin, June 19872 Zillmerised 29The sumptuously leaning, sloping arête. Roland Foster (solo), April 19923 Bodysnatcher 23 ]Sustained and classic bridging in theprominent peapod groove. To get there,commit to the small overhang and moveout left onto the rib. Continue up thegroove above over a bulge (crux), protectedby small but good wires.Robbie McBirney, 19744 Boys on Bikes 26‘Thinking climbing, with not a singlemean jam or hold to be found,’ said Aimer.Thinking it was unclimbed, Kim Carriganlater eyed up the line and removed severalblocks. Start up Bodysnatcher to gain thecorner.Graeme Aimer, 19835 Pig Igneous 27 [ 3The definitive version of the previousroute : a hard direct start gains the groove.Ton Snelder, 19896 Sweat 27 1At the first bolt on Pig Igneous, head upright on to the impressive buttress.Dave Vass, 19927 Heat 26 \ 2A must do. Climb the thin overhangingcrack or the buttress and insinuate yourselfinto the upper groove. Strenuous.Charlie Creese, December 19818 Legs This Wide 25 [ 2These bulging shallow grooves demandflexibility. A little run out up high, on smallbut good wires.Graeme Aimer, December 19839 Sample The Dog 26 [ 4The thin, full-length V-groove. Luke <strong>New</strong>nham, 19900 Wired 24Reach broken ledges by climbing the wallon the left. Move back left and finish upthe groove.Rick McGregor, June 1981q Black Stump 23Gain the broken ledges from the groove onright. Continue up the thin crack above,exiting right.Robbie McBirney, 1977w The Grip Goes On 23 1From the groove of Black Stump, climbstraight up the shallow groove above, pasta bolt to the ledges above.Graeme Aimer, December 1983e The Ghost Who Walks 26 1Climb the narrow groove to the ledgeof Gothic Groove. Step back left wheredelicate moves lead to better holds.Tony Ward-Holmes, July 1986r Gothic Groove 22 [Climb the wall to the ledge and groove.Up this to scurry left across the horizontalbreak (crux) to gain ledges.Robbie McBirney, October 1975t Roo Squeaks 25This direct finish tests your ability to getinto weird positions and stay on.Alex Palman, April 1987y Fuck-Knuckle 22Climb to the shattered ledge and continueup the crack through the bulge beforemoving right into Silver Airman. Rick McGregor, March 1979Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz