Quarry Climbs - New Zealand Alpine Club

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<strong>Quarry</strong> <strong>Climbs</strong>: Long Side13 2 4 5 678 9 10 11In a route description, the number of bolts refers to the total number needed to climb the route: so adirect finish with one bolt that also uses two bolts lower down will be described as having three bolts.
Studio 54 – When the Kat’s Away 171 Studio 54 26 ]Beautiful sequins. Dynamic moves up thebuttress. Charlie Creese, September 19812 Principles of Lust 21 [ 3Climb the crack until level with the secondbolt — a lewd move across the wall isfollowed by fun climbing on the arête.John van der Werff, 19943 Direct Start 26 4The contrived direct start avoids the crack.4 Thimblerigger 21 ]The groove with a thin crack in its rightside is climbed with increasing difficultyto the ledge on the right. Cross back left tothe top of Principles of Lust, or continueup the right-leaning slab. Rick McGregor, October 19755 Barracuda 22Scramble to the ledge and proceed up thethin crack to a bulge at the top (crux) andledges. Finish straight up or out right.Robbie McBirney, September 19776 Soliloquy 18 [Cracking climbing. Climb the crack direct(or, easier, swing into it from the ledgeon the left). Small ledges lead to a pull upleft onto broken ledges. Proceed up to theoverhang and finish through the notch onthe right.Robbie McBirney, July 19737 Training for Straining 25 [The splendid gothic arch. From a shatteredarea climb the strenuous but wellprotectedthin crack. Harder if you avoidthe temptation to step left onto narrowledges halfway up Soliloquy. Rick McGregor, September 19818 Bad Karma 26The arête and corner crack requiresa number of long reaches to gain thelichenous slab. Awkward to protect. Charlie Creese, December 19819 Jams O’Donnell 24 [The crack in the short, clean-cut corner.Finish up blocky terrain above. Robbie McBirney, September 19770 Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off 25Short, but strenuous moves in the 2 cornersare a challenge. Finish up Jams O’Donnellor abseil off the threaded chain. Charlie Creese, March 1981q When the Kat’s Away 26Stay in the right-hand corner all the way tothe ledge.Alex Palman, November 1988Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz
Page 1 and 2: Quarry Climbsa guide for climbersRi
Page 3 and 4: 3Before you leave homeMotorwayMt Ed
Page 5 and 6: Casual Regression - The Raven 5See
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Page 26 and 27: Quarry Climbs: Short Side13 12 14 1
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Page 30 and 31: Quarry ClimbsIndex of routes by gra
Page 32: PHOTO: KESTER BROWNThe NZAC is New

Quarry Climbs - New Zealand Alpine Club

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