Quarry Climbs - New Zealand Alpine Club

3Before you leave homeMotorwayMt EdenPrisonTennisCourtsLocation mapTheLongSideMountain RoadNormanby RoadAucklandGrammarSchoolTheShort SideClive Roadto Mt Eden Road wFinding the QuarryThe Mt Eden Quarry is situated in the centreof Auckland, in the grounds of the AucklandGrammar School and beside the southernmotorway and the Mt Eden Prison.Written approval must be obtained from theheadmaster before climbing at the Quarry:Auckland Grammar SchoolPrivate Bag 99930NewmarketAuckland 1149Tel: 64 9 623 5400To reach the Long Side from the school’smain gates on Mountain Road, follow the signsto the Centennial Theatre complex and takethe road that leads down to the left of the theatreto the lower playing fields — and the crag.Use the track from the end of the fence atthe far right-hand end to get to the top of thecliff. Chains lead down from the top fenceto abseil anchors above Graveyard Groove,Nutcracker and Silver Airman.Access to the Short Side, which is nearthe corner of Clive and Normanby Roads, isfrom the Grammar–Windsor hockey turf onNormanby Road.Weather and rock conditionsAuckland has a showery maritime climate but,because the crag faces north and is a naturalheat trap, it dries quickly. Climbing is possibleall year round, but in summer it can getextremely hot in the middle of the day.Climbing equipmentFew of the routes at the Quarry can be climbedsolely on bolt protection. On moderate routesmedium to large wires predominate, with someplacements for cams. On more difficult routessmall wires are needed, often several of eachsize. There is a big difference between top-ropingand leading; some routes require the abilityto place intricate and awkward protection.Using a helmet is recommended — theground at the top of many routes is loose.Take a square of carpet for wiping your feetbefore trying a boulder problem. A boulderingmat (or two) is recommended for the higherboulder problems.Other equipment to considerFirst aid kit, water bottle, sunscreen, fingertape and a camera.Bolts and belay pointsAlthough pitons were the main form of fixedproteection used on most first ascents at theQuarry, these have been replaced by bolts.Localclimbers monitor the age and condition of allfixed protection and belays and there should beno reason to replace or add new bolts.A few routes have been retrobolted withoutthe first ascensionist’s knowledge or consent.Sometimes adding new bolts (and new boltedvariations) has changed the nature of adjacentroutes. Neither practice is acceptable.Neither the authors nor the New ZealandAlpine Club guarantee the safety of any bolts;nor are they responsible for any bolts placed.Climbers should inspect each bolt and takeresponsibility for their own personal safety.Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz