Quarry Climbs - New Zealand Alpine Club

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Quarry ClimbsAt the cragThe Mt Eden Quarry comprises two maincliffs: the Long Side, with routes of about 15to 20 metres in height, and the Short Side, withroutes of up to 10 metres.The Long Side comes into its own for climberscompetent at around grade 18 and above.The Short Side is generally more suitable forlearners, with shorter climbs and lower grades.The rock is fine-grained columnar basalt fromthe Mt Eden lava flow.Permission to climbPermission to climb at the Quarry is at the discretionof the Auckland Grammar School. Thiscliff is a priceless resource; we cannot afford tolose access to it. The school has laid down thefollowing conditions that climbers using theQuarry must abide by:• Rock climbing is a dangerous activity.• Climbing is prohibited unless prior writtenapproval is obtained from the headmaster.Authorised users climb at their own risk.• Any person climbing on the wall withoutwritten approval of the headmaster is a trespasser.• The board of trustees accepts no liability forinjury or accident.• Do not climb over of under fences• do not use fences for anchors• Do not interfere with school equipmentwhich may be in use• Do not litter• Do not behave in a manner which mightoffend other users.Environmental CodeFor many Auckland climbers the Quarry is thefirst place to climb real rock after learning toclimb on indoor walls.Although the Quarry is a highly modifiedurban environment, there are still some thingsto keep in mind that will go a long way towardssafeguarding access and keeping the crag ingood condition for the next generation.One: Please follow existing tracks. This willprevent unnecessary damage to the vegetationsurrounding the cliffs.Two: Do not drop litter at the crag. Take homeany that you find.Three: Do not take your dog to the crag.Four: Absolutely no chipping.Five: Before placing bolts on a new route,consider carefully where they should best besituated, and whether the climb is worth theinvestment of time and money. Do not addbolts to existing routes.Six: Use as little chalk as possible, and brushaway tick marks or excessive build-up at theend of your session.Seven: If you become frustrated with a climbplease keep obscenities and offensive phrasesto yourself.Remember that access to crags is a privilege,not a right.This code is based on the NZAC code of conductfor rock climbers, which can be read atwww.alpineclub.org.nz.SafetyThis is largely in your hands — everybodyshould take responsibility for their own safety.Search and rescueContact the nearest police station or ring 111for an ambulance. There is a public phone onMountain Road, near the southern entrance tothe Grammar School.DescentsAbseiling or lowering off is recommended.Fixed belays and abseil chains can be used forall the climbs and are marked on the topos.At the right-hand end of the Long Side (facingthe cliff ) there is a track that leads to thetop of the cliff.Descent from Short Side routes is normallyby walking off.
Casual Regression – The Raven 5See key over page3 4 5 67The Long SideAt the left-hand end of the cliff, in an areaof broken rock and vegetation, there are tworoutes:1 Casual Regression 15The rather shabby crack line. John Smith, May 19952 False Induction 16 2Climb past a bolt on the lower tier toanother bolt on the lichenous slab. A ½ or1 cam is useful under the top flake. John Smith, May 19953 Cliff Smith’s Corner 16The left-facing corner to easier groundabove. An easier variant finishes right tothe Bop Gun ledge.4 Bop Gun 24The steep highball rib with a committingmove to the ledge. Charlie Creese (solo), February 19815 Brain Damage 20A short right-facing crack and corner.Crux at top.Len Gillman, 19776 Dekcuf 24The steep, sheer groove. Bryce Martin, September 19777 The Raven 24 ]The steep, left-leaning groove. Thoughshort, this is often regarded as a yardstickfor the grade.Robbie McBirney, 1977Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz
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Page 3: 3Before you leave homeMotorwayMt Ed
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Quarry Climbs - New Zealand Alpine Club

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