Quarry Climbs - New Zealand Alpine Club

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<strong>Quarry</strong> <strong>Climbs</strong>: Long Side151781212 3 45 6 7 91011131416
Blam Blam Blam – Wild Gravity Direct 91 Blam, Blam, Blam 28 [Tip-tearing moves lead leftward up theoverhanging wall to reach a peapod grooveand an easing but still difficult finish.(Only 27 if boulder mats, the bolt onFaulty Logic or pre-placed gear is used.)There were few routes harder than this inthe world in 1981: at Arapiles, Cobwebs wasclimbed in December and the first French8as not until 1982.Charlie Creese, November 19812 Faulty Logic 27 2The worst joke at the crag? The wall with 2bolts, straight up past the big hole. Kim Carrigan, February 19863 Effort, Money and Time 24Dubbed by one wag ‘Biggles Flies FurtherWest’. Start at the pointy ledge and climbthe thin crack left of Biggles Flies West.Clip the bolt on Faulty Logic if you can. Bolke Water, February 19924 Biggles Flies West 21Harder than it looks. Follow the thin crackand do a ‘Bigglesworth’ to reach the ledge.Grant Davidson, November 19805 Graveyard Groove 17 [Moore climbed this sharp corner just hoursafter the column that formerly enclosed itcollapsed — as he was soloing it!Bryan Moore, June 19846 Biggles Sucks a Kumara 22 2Climb the buttress past one peg and a bolt.Peter Dickson, August 19847 Dalrymple’s Groove 18Dalrymple is in fact Rick McGregor’smiddle name. The prominent V-groove,somewhat difficult to protect. Robbie McBirney, 19738 LH Finish 17Climb left to finish up Graveyard Groove.9 Diddely Dick 23 2The rib provides variety. Rick McGregor, 19810 Koruba 17 3The prominent U-shaped groove. Thisbridging classic used to see some longfalls — bolts now rather dampen theexcitement.Rick McGregor, 1974q Nutless 18 2The arête between Koruba and Nutcracker.Don’t use the cracks on either side. Peter Dickson (solo), 1985w Nutcracker 16Traverse up and right to the ledge at thebottom of the groove (or reach it direct —harder). Climb the groove, exiting right. Robbie McBirney, May 1973e Thunderpussy 25 2Up the arête to the break, then tackle theupper buttress.Peter Dickson, 1988r Green Groove 21 [McBirney was ‘just bouldering’ until hedecided reversing back down was toodifficult! Good moves in the V-groove leadto the blast hole, then move across intothe groove proper. Good protection can bearranged in the crack of the eliminate.Robbie McBirney (solo), September 1974t Green Groove Eliminate 23Choose the thin crack through thebuttress, moving right at the top. Rick McGregor, March 1981y Wild Gravity 24 3Start up Sneakeasy but move left at thesecond bolt and finish direct up thebuttress. Alex Palman, August 1987u Wild Gravity Direct 26Stay left of the rib all the way. Troy Stevenson, March 1996Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz
Page 1 and 2: Quarry Climbsa guide for climbersRi
Page 3 and 4: 3Before you leave homeMotorwayMt Ed
Page 5 and 6: Casual Regression - The Raven 5See
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Quarry Climbs - New Zealand Alpine Club

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