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The Reykjavík Grapevine<br />

Issue 16 — 2015<br />

25<br />

TRAVEL<br />

Car provided by Hertz car rental,<br />

book car at www.hertz.is<br />

Distance to Egilsstaðir<br />

146 km<br />

7. Dagverðarnes<br />

By the time you reach the sign to<br />

Dagverðarnes, you will have no doubt<br />

noticed the geography has started<br />

getting interesting again. You pass<br />

through an Icelandic forest that’s actually<br />

pretty big, with trees way too close<br />

together, as is the Traditional Icelandic<br />

Way. There’s also a cool grave/memorial<br />

thing near Vogur.<br />

Mountains! They’re back! Okay, turn<br />

down the dirt track to Dagverðarnes.<br />

Our Mini seriously struggled with this<br />

road, with massive jagged rocks ready<br />

to tear the bottom of your car right off.<br />

We are irresponsible, so we carried on.<br />

Boy, was it worth it.<br />

The long dirt track will take you<br />

down to a pretty spectacular archipelago<br />

of little islands and lakes. It’s<br />

worth taking slow, as it’s actually a very<br />

unique area geographically. Stop and<br />

have a sandwich and look at the distant<br />

mountains and the birds or something.<br />

Neither me nor Art, the photographer,<br />

are particularly superstitious, but we<br />

felt a very strange change in energy in<br />

this area, No joke. It’s pretty magical.<br />

At the end of the road, there’s an<br />

old church and a house. I don’t know if<br />

anyone lives at the house. There wasn’t<br />

anyone there when we were there. Be<br />

respectful and leave stuff alone anyway.<br />

You can’t enter the church alone<br />

as there is a massive circular boulder<br />

blocking the door (why are people always<br />

locking Jesus in with big circular<br />

boulders? who left the boulder there?),<br />

but the area is worth wandering around.<br />

There’s sheep shit, small beaches, a<br />

graveyard, and some mysterious tracks.<br />

There are strange things afoot in<br />

Dagverðarnes. Don’t disturb the magical<br />

peace, really. Forces much bigger than you<br />

are at work here.<br />

8. Rock hole—picnic!<br />

Once you’re back on the main road,<br />

head west to a passage through the<br />

rocks. It’s a bit like that lame Pod Race<br />

valley in Star Wars Episode I, but smaller.<br />

There’s a picnic table here. Have a<br />

picnic and look out at the place you just<br />

left. Walk through the rock hole and<br />

feel the wind on your skin.<br />

We turned around here for time<br />

purposes, but you can also carry on<br />

through the rock hole and travel around<br />

the rest of the peninsula.<br />

Who put the road through the rocks?<br />

How did it get here before we had an app<br />

to do it? Some say an ice giant snorted<br />

a line of rocks, which in ice giant land is<br />

sort of like crack. Is the crack the one you<br />

snort? I wouldn’t know. Either way, there’s<br />

been a road through the rocks ever since.<br />

9. Laugar,<br />

Sælingsdalur valley—swim!<br />

Laugar is said to be the home of the<br />

lady of the tracts of land, and up on the<br />

hill is her ORIGINAL POOL! It’s a really<br />

good pool—it’s free to use, relatively<br />

natural, and looks cool as well. There<br />

are a number of great hiking routes<br />

into the mountains from this spot. If<br />

you have time, go for a hike, then have<br />

a swim. There’s also a campsite here if<br />

you want to camp.<br />

The valley here is the setting of<br />

many Sagas, in particular 'Laxdæla<br />

saga', one of the only Sagas to feature a<br />

woman as the main character—Guðrún<br />

Ósvífursdóttir.<br />

If you look out from the hill by Laugar,<br />

you can just about envision all that medieval<br />

high school drama taking place here.<br />

Well, it’s true. It did.<br />

10. Stop for<br />

ice cream again. Why not?<br />

At this point, we started heading back<br />

to Reykjavík. But that doesn’t mean you<br />

have to! You can carry on north from<br />

here up to the Westfjords, or you can<br />

head down to Snæfellsnes. You can go<br />

your own way!<br />

On the way back, stop for ice cream<br />

again at Erpsstaðir. They might look<br />

at you weird. “Why are you back here<br />

again so soon?” they will ask. “Trust<br />

me, I know what I’m doing,” you will say.<br />

If you still have some time left once<br />

you get back to the area around Bifröst,<br />

go and check out Háafell goat centre<br />

and Deildartunguhver (a geothermal<br />

river). Play with some goats. Buy some<br />

goat soap. Eat some fresh local tomatoes<br />

at the river and look at some mist.<br />

It’s all here! What a fun day!<br />

ÍSAFJÖRÐUR<br />

islenska/sia.is FLU 73263 03/15<br />

ICELAND’S WESTFJORDS<br />

ARE ONLY 40 MINUTES AWAY<br />

Let’s fly<br />

BOOK YOUR FLIGHT OR<br />

DAY TOUR AT AIRICELAND.IS

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