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22<br />

The Reykjavík Grapevine<br />

Issue 16 — 2015<br />

FOOD<br />

FOR YOUR MIND BODY AND SOUL<br />

West Side Story<br />

Kaffihús Vesturbæjar<br />

Melhagi 20-22, 107 Reykjavík<br />

What We Think:<br />

Don’t be afraid of seasoning! A<br />

little salt and acidity would go a<br />

long way in singing our way to<br />

flavour-town.<br />

Flavour:<br />

Kind of mis-matched, but with<br />

something for everyone.<br />

Ambiance:<br />

Trendy, clever and comfortable. It<br />

can get pretty loud, though.<br />

Service:<br />

Laid-back and friendly.<br />

Price for 2 (no drinks):<br />

5-6,000 ISK for 2 main courses<br />

and coffee<br />

One of the dangers of living in Reykjavík<br />

is that you quickly adapt to the local<br />

concept of time and space. As a city rat,<br />

I now think that anything outside of the<br />

101 postcode is “far.” Even the 107 hood<br />

has fallen off my radar. But an enterprising<br />

bunch of West Reykjavík folks<br />

(or “Vesturbæingar” as they are called)<br />

have taken up the challenge of planting<br />

their neighbourhood on the downtown<br />

radar with their on-point bistro, Kaffihús<br />

Vesturbæjar.<br />

Bang opposite the beloved Vesturbæjarlaug<br />

pool, Kaffi Vest jostles for<br />

space with the Gamla Apótek in the<br />

same building. After a dip in the pool,<br />

so popular with the trendy west side<br />

families, this would seem an obvious<br />

choice to get some grub.<br />

It is a stylish bistro replete with the<br />

now trendy wall-to-wall open shelving<br />

and old school displays of their freshly<br />

baked wares. Do not miss the little details<br />

(very much a Kex-like flair going<br />

on here, with the same team responsible<br />

for the décor): the vintage light<br />

fixtures, the wire basket full of wooden<br />

rolling pins, the old apothecary jars<br />

lining the rustic shelves, and the wide<br />

windows opening up to the main street<br />

makes for a chic package. It is all very<br />

inviting, and I can see why it is such a<br />

popular hangout with the locals.<br />

My husband and I decided to make<br />

the best of a sunny autumn day and call<br />

it a lunch date. The café is clearly an<br />

afternoon favourite, with every table<br />

occupied during our meal. We skipped<br />

the popular cauliflower soup (1,690<br />

ISK) and decided on the tartine of<br />

smoked salmon (1,690 ISK). My adventurous<br />

meat-loving husband decided<br />

to go in all guns blazing and chose the<br />

vegan burger (2,550 ISK). I did want to<br />

try the avocado salad (2,100 ISK), but<br />

was saved by the thoughtful hostess<br />

who suggested we might want to wait<br />

with that since the portions were very<br />

generous.<br />

The service is laid-back and easy,<br />

which if you are in a hurry or want a<br />

working lunch might not be the best<br />

pace, but we have dined here for dinner<br />

and had no complaints then. Our food<br />

arrived, affirming that the kitchen sure<br />

isn’t skimping on the portions!<br />

My tartine was a humongous hunk<br />

of sourdough-like bread, lusciously<br />

draped with silky slices of smoked<br />

salmon. With briny capers, pickled red<br />

peppers and a generous smattering of<br />

fresh parsley, this was a beautiful take<br />

on classic flavours.<br />

My partner´s burger, on the other<br />

hand, was underwhelming. The bun<br />

to patty ratio was off balance, the<br />

chickpea-beetroot-oatmeal patty with<br />

ginger and chillies was too pasty and<br />

under-seasoned. Conceptually great,<br />

Kaffi Vest’s veggie burger really failed<br />

on the taste front. The avocado mayonnaise<br />

is a very clever idea, however, and<br />

the texture had me fooled for a while; it<br />

was quite the mayonnaise doppleganger.<br />

With a touch more acidity, it could<br />

stand up very well to the herby fries<br />

that accompanied the burger. I was a<br />

big fan, and stole more than one (even<br />

though they too needed a touch more<br />

seasoning. Wait, am I a salt fiend?),<br />

though my husband, less of a fan, overlooked<br />

the potato larceny. At Kaffi<br />

Vesturbær, they seem to favour wholewheat<br />

buns but I’d love to see them offer<br />

diners some variety on that front.<br />

Kaffi Vest’s food has great potential.<br />

Their focus on thoughtfully sourced<br />

fresh ingredients, cooked seasonally, is<br />

a winning formula, but they can take it<br />

up a few notches with some minor revisions<br />

to the recipes. If that slow-cooked<br />

Moroccan lamb I had on a previous occasion<br />

is any proof, their autumn-winter<br />

menu seems worth looking forward to.<br />

Until then, one can celebrity-gaze,<br />

nibble on some dainty macaroons and<br />

drink never-ending cups of the excellent<br />

house coffee. Kaffi Vest has<br />

cracked the code on how to attract the<br />

coffee lounge crowd. With laid back<br />

service and a chic style quotient, it is<br />

not hard to see why it is such a popular<br />

haunt, and not just for the locals.<br />

SHRUTHI BASAPPA<br />

ART BICNICK<br />

-----------------------------------------------------------<br />

N E W A W A R D<br />

B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 5<br />

BanThai<br />

R E S T A U R A N T<br />

w w w . b a n t h a i . i s<br />

----------------------------<br />

L a u g a v e g u r 1 3 0<br />

T E L : 6 9 2 - 0 5 6 4<br />

----------------------------<br />

“<br />

A L S O B E S T 2 0 0 9, 2 0 1 0, 2 0 1 1, 2 0 1 2, 2 0 1 3 a n d 2 0 1 4<br />

m a n y f a m o u s p e o p l e a r e r e g u l a r s h e r e<br />

Do not miss !<br />

“<br />

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