EASTERN CRETE

out before an eternally calm sea sheltered
by the cliffs on either side.
Behind a little cemetery with a small
white church that is level with the village of
Azokeramos, the climb towards the Minoan
peak sanctuary of Traostalos begins. The
path of pink soil contrasts with the dark
green bushes of thyme and sage, with their
scented flowers that feed the bees whose
honey has an intense and aromatic flavour.
At the summit a group of lighter-coloured
rocks marks out a natural sacred enclosure,
and the terrain is scattered with tiny
fragments of terracotta, chippings from the
votive offerings of the Minoans.
Once past the modern village of Zakros,
a small clearing marks the beginning of the
descent towards a deep gorge that runs out
into the creek of Kato Zakros where
the Minoan palace lies. Following
the twisted path of the gorge past
stones, pools of water and oleander
bushes, on the rock walls one notes
numerous caves cut into the stone:
these are Minoan graves, rock
tombs that have given the gorge
its name of "Valley of Death".
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