EASTERN CRETE

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C H A P T E R 2 Not far from the main square of Karydi, climbing in the direction of the windmills, we find the ruins of the monastery of Chardemutsa, constructed like a fort in a perfect mixture of Venetian and traditional Cretan styles, with a great paved courtyard, a vestibule with pointed arches and large rooms containing old liturgical objects. The ruins of monasteries like Chardemutsa or Perambela testify to the religious devotion of the population, and the noble architecture continues to remind us of the richness of monastic life 44
Many villages have been completely abandoned, like, for example, Hondrovolaki, which overlooks a gorge not far from Valtos: roofless houses, black doorways that look like toothless mouths, empty window casements like blind eyes and streets through which stray dogs run, are all that remains of a village which survives only in the memory of inhabitants who will never return. Just as no one will ever again inhabit the beautiful compound of a rural villa close by the village of Ayios Georgios: built of wellcut dry stone, with various rooms on several floors with arches, stone steps, oven and fireplaces and with a spectacular view of the coast, the house must have belonged to a fairly well-off family. The large grounds were terraced almost right down to the sea and almonds and olive trees still grow there from which no one gathers the fruit. From above one sees the ragged coastline with few isolated houses, the monastery of Ayios Andreas and the cave church of Ayios Antonios: it is a strange scenery of ochre, pink and black rocks, corroded by the wind and by the tides which render difficult both landing and embarkation. Some farm houses were very big and inhabited by large family clans. This kind of rural complex was entirely selfsufficient and could provide food, water, tools and clothes for everybody 45
Page 2: The G. & A. Mamidakis Foundation, h
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Page 8 and 9: MINOS BEACH art hotel Escape in sty
Page 10 and 11: CANDIA PARK VILLAGE Experience a wo
Page 12 and 13: CHAPTER 1 SACRED AND PROFANE IN THE
Page 14 and 15: C H A P T E R 1 Ayios Nikolaos An e
Page 16 and 17: C H A P T E R 1 A medieval archer f
Page 18 and 19: C H A P T E R 1 Kritsa and Panayia
Page 20 and 21: C H A P T E R 1 Lato Lato, once an
Page 22 and 23: C H A P T E R 1 The Katharo Plateau
Page 24 and 25: C H A P T E R 1 Every season has it
Page 28 and 29: C H A P T E R 1 The Lasithi Plateau
Page 30 and 31: C H A P T E R 1 The grotto of Trape
Page 32 and 33: C H A P T E R 1 The Diktaion Antron
Page 36 and 37: CHAPTER 2 THE AUSTERITY OF STONE AN
Page 38 and 39: C H A P T E R 2 The austerity of st
Page 40 and 41: C H A P T E R 2 Spinalonga Linked t
Page 42 and 43: C H A P T E R 2 Stone as art Far fr
Page 44 and 45: C H A P T E R 2 Statues from the Ro
Page 48 and 49: 46 C H A P T E R 2
Page 50 and 51: C H A P T E R 2 The Cave of Milatos
Page 52 and 53: C H A P T E R 2 Malia Golden bee pe
Page 54 and 55: C H A P T E R 2 Tales of Neapoli an
Page 58 and 59: CHAPTER 3 FROM COAST TO COAST THROU
Page 60 and 61: C H A P T E R 3 Where nature is kin
Page 62 and 63: C H A P T E R 3 From Gournia to Ier
Page 64 and 65: C H A P T E R 3 The inner walls of
Page 66 and 67: 64 C H A P T E R 3
Page 68 and 69: C H A P T E R 3 From ancient Kavous
Page 70 and 71: C H A P T E R 3 The stones of histo
Page 72 and 73: C H A P T E R 3 Nowadays the tradit
Page 74 and 75: C H A P T E R 3 The bold, dark prof
Page 78 and 79: CHAPTER 4 ETEOCRETANS AND RELICS OF
Page 80 and 81: C H A P T E R 4 The Venetian castle
Page 82 and 83: C H A P T E R 4 Sitia from Minoan t
Page 84 and 85: C H A P T E R 4 Archaeological Muse
Page 87 and 88: A white-rock gorge leads to a stony
Page 89 and 90: Hellenistic-Roman period. Continuin
Page 91 and 92: Even very small settlements were bu
Page 93 and 94: with whom they had commercial deali
Page 95 and 96: eautiful panoramas, as far as the r
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Continuing on towards Armeni and Ha
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Returning towards Armeni, where on
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in wonder at the rare visitors who
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The Roman villa dates back to the f
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Zeus, an aqueduct and the remains o
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CHAPTER 5 PLACES OF WORSHIP UNDER A
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C H A P T E R 5 Mountain-top sanctu
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C H A P T E R 5 The peak sanctuary
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At the Museum of Ayios Nikolaos all
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C H A P T E R 5 Travelling towards
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118 C H A P T E R 5
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C H A P T E R 5 The Christian basil
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C H A P T E R 5 Palaekastro and the
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124 C H A P T E R 5
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C H A P T E R 5 A deep, dark hole m
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C H A P T E R 5 Zakros and the Vall
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C H A P T E R 5 The gorge known as
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C H A P T E R 5 The coast of the wi
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C H A P T E R 5 sculpted by nature,
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137
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Chronology 7000 B.C. Stone Age, arr
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TEXT JUDITH LANGE PHOTOGRAPHS JUDIT
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EASTERN CRETE

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